Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 6, No. 3. pp.94~109(2002)
A Study of Fashion Art Illustration
Kang, Hee-Myung and Kim, Hye-Kyung* Lecturer, Doctoral, Dept. of Fashion Design, Dongduk Women’s University Professor, Dept. of Fashion Design, Dongduk Women’s University*
Abstract
The advent of the information age, advancement of the multi-media, and proliferation of internet are all ushering-in a new era of a cyber world. The artistic expression is unfolding into a new genre of a new era.. In the modern art, the boundary between the fine art and the applied art is becoming blurred, and further, distinction of fine art from popular art is also becoming meaningless. The advancement of science and technology, by offering new materials and visual forms, is contributing to the expansion of the morden art’s horizon. As fashion illustration is gaining recognition as a form of art which mirrors today’s realities, it has also become increasingly necessary to add variety and newness. Fashion illustration is thus becoming the visual language of the modern world, capable of conveying artistic emotion, and at the same time able to effectively communicate the image of fashion to the masses. The increasing awareness of artistic talent and ingenuity as essential components of fashion illustration is yielding greater fusion between fashion illustration and art &technology. This has resulted in the use of the advanced computer technology as a tool for crafting artistic expressions, such as fashion illustration, and this new tool has opened-up new possibilities for expressing images and colors. Further, the computer-aided fashion illustration is emerging as a new technique for expression. The concept of fashion illustration, history of fashion illustration from its incepton to modern date is reviewed and the simplicity has been researched throughout past studies published in Korean and overseas Journals. Key words: art Illustration, expression, fashion, image, style
I. Introduction the situation of each time and is also reflected in its closely related fashion illustration. Furthermore, In the 20th century, the general evolution of the as the boundaries of the fine art, the applied art, society becomes pluralistic by the advancement and the popular culture become blurred, there of mass media, the unstable situation, the limited appears very clearly the phenomenon to warfare, natural disaster, and environmental combine art and fashion. disruption, etc. And this kind of fin-de-siecle It’s commonly called “Fashion Art” to combine unrests gave a big influence in each field of art and fashion. Furthermore, its meaning can architecture, pictures, designs, fashion, etc. The extend to a general term to call all the arts which fashion, as the cultural phenomenon, describes can be the communicable language in the
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subject of fashion as a basis of social existence. instance, a cut, an explanatory drawing, an Fashion Art refers to one out of the following example, etc’. Its origin is ‘Illumination’, which is three cases; one case is to bring fashion to art the compound word of ‘Lim-Limm’ and ‘Luminer’. works, another is to apply the arts to fashion Also, ‘Lumination’ can be explained differently materials, and the other is that the artist and the such as ‘a drawing for lightening’, ‘one for looking fashion designer participate in the group work & better’, ‘one for description’, and ‘one for interior’. exhibition by the desired planning. As you see in the above, ‘Illustration’ does not In a broader sense, fashion art illustration is a mean only ‘to move an abstract language into subset of the fashion art and thus can be picture’ but also ‘to extend the cycle of the mean categorized as any of the above three cases. by adding one symbol on the other ones’.1) The expression ways should be considered The original word of Illustration is ‘to make light variously so that Fashion Art Illustration might explain’. It means that the sentiment of invisible reflect the artist’s creative and artistic nature. As world is clearly opened and defined to public Fashion Art Illustration is recognized to be very through lighting and visualization. In other words, important in its artistic and creative nature and it shows the nature of communication to inform to creativity, it has tried to connect to various human beings’, which describes the characteristic technology and art fields. of Illustration as it is. Therefore, Illustration is an Most of local study on fashion illustration to- internal expression world by human being’s date have been centered around an actual piece imagination and has a communication function as of work, focusing on the artist’s inspiration or the meaningful drawing. technique,or dedicated to examine a short period Putting it concretely, Illustration might be “Cuts” of time. This study endeavors to broaden the in newspapers, magazines and advertisements boundaries of fashion illustration, shedding light to supplement or highlight the content, while its into this new form of visual art and formative definition in the study of Art, is “the drawing to be language. ordered” that the traditional sketch of human This study will show the definition and the body is done for others by drawing or painting characteristics of Fashion Art Illustration for the within the fine art. theoretical background and look around for the Illustration is the picture for an advertisement of history of Illustration by century and its features magazine and printing in which an idea is from the past to the present through the domestic expressed with visual effect of photos or pictures. and foreign literatures. It means to “Visual” including actuality, comic, cuts and design as well as pictorial expression, and to ‘Plane or Cubic Molding’ which is drawn, II. Theoretical Consideration on made or sculptured in various expression forms.2) Fashion Art Illustration. Also, Illustration is a drawing that a traditional sketch of human body is done and published 1. Definition of Fashion Art Illustration with texts for others by drawing or painting within fine art, and the picture to be ordered for some ‘Illustration’ has the dictionary mean of ‘an purpose.3)
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In a broader sense fashion art illustration is a images become to express in the various way. subset of the fashion illustration So, the solid & carved formative expression Amid the blurring boundaries between the fine comes out with the plane expression including art and the commercial art, in a world where the the hand drawing, mechanic expression like the fusion art is increasingly accepted as part of the photograph, and the geometric expression with established code, the fashion art illustration computer.5) attempts to create a diverse form of images from Illustration is divided into two main streams by different angles. its purpose; one is the explanatory illustration for Manferedo Massironi said to suppose tailoring and the other is the pictorial illustration in Illustration to be ‘the total of images’ to find the which the artist expresses the internal world of the true meaning through the image and its fashion with his own interpretation and corresponding linguistic interpretation. It means personality. For the convenience sake, the former that Illustration communicates the abstract is called “Style Illustration” and the latter “Fashion images that the artist wants to deliver through the Illustration”. The one is the explanation diagram- symbolization, not that it expresses just the things like illustration related to dressmaking and the to be explained in language into drawing. other describes not a concrete specification or In modern term, illustration is ‘Communication instruction but the whole style of dress with the Art’ with the concept to reflect the culture, the spirit artist’s interpretation and character.6) of the times, and the artist’s spirit. That is, Since the 20th century began, illustration has Illustration plays a role not only as the marketing or been divided by the development of fashion information communication at the present time but illustration and the artistic capacity has been also as very important media of communication show in the image-based fashion illustration. art to form the visual environment of humanism.4) If fashion illustration focuses on the direction of the social fashion to make the continuous change and develops the personal expression with the 2. Characteristics of Fashion Art Illustration freedom of expression, it will contain the esthetic Fashion illustration purposes to deliver the and sensuous artistic value along with its meaning of fashion and the image based on functional value. Even though it has ever human body and clothes. In other words, its relegated by photograph - one of the realistic purpose of fashion illustration puts on the techniques, Fashion illustration is recently meaning and the value of the fashion. emerging in each kind of advertisements or even Accordingly, the characteristic of fashion and in the pictorial of fashion magazine as its great illustration is ‘Visual Communication through creativity becomes recognized to have the strong Color and Shape’ to visualize and describe the persuasive power. fashion images, or to communicate the fashion While its reality is scarce, fashion illustration information. That is, the Fashion Illustration, which brings it out to form easily the imagination and describes aesthetically the formative factors enable the artist to omit, to exaggerate and to related to fashion design, should keep up with distort for highlighting images. trends or social changes sensitively and fashion Fashion illustration can concretize the artist’s
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desired concept - the fashion image as it reflects communication or the precision of costume itself. the finality by purpose, the identity to show the Those models could be found in Renaissance artist’s creative works, the phases of the times to masters’ sketches and woodblock prints. show its spirit as well as the fashion message that The first fashion illustration with the clear the artist wants to deliver. objective of fashion communication, was found in the magazine, ‘Le Mercure Galant’ that, as the new knowledge and desires on mode were 3. History of Fashion Art Illustration increased in the 17th century’s French Palace, Since ancient Egyptian ages, human beings had been published to deliver fashion information can guess the shape of the past clothes to see by six months from 1672 to 1715 along with the drawings such as a wall painting. In the 16th literary yearbook or other publications. The new century, as the creative activity was highly mode was embodied and popularized by the increased, the fashion plates were much made to pure painters. describe the shape, the colors & the details of Also, Aubrey Beardsley to reflect the style of Art clothes. These fashion plates, however, was Nouveau and Toulouse Lautrec affected by considered to express the social custom of this Japanese woodblock print appeared as a ages rather than to mean the fashion illustration.7) starting point of fashion illustration & art and have By the end of the 19th century, Fashion given big influence up to now.(Fig.1) Illustration had not gotten out of the category of As you see in the above, the fashion illustration style drawing to shows the actual “Reenactment”. did not expressed the artist’s characteristic or The history of Fashion Illustration is broadly image but had only the limited function of realistic classified into the period of the actual reenactment ‘reenactment’ to describe the details such as before the 20th century and the transition period cutting line, the shape of creases, textile, the of fashion illustration after the 20th century. It can number of buttons, etc. be said that the true fashion illustration started in 2) In 1900’s - 1920’s the early of the 20th century to contain the purpose of expressing fashion image, As the photograph has been introduced to mode magazine and fashion advertisement from 1) Before the 19th century the end of the 18th century, the traditional In the 14th century a large quantity of copy was illustration technique couldn’t compete with the possible with the start of the copperplate print photograph regarding the realistic description. In and Gutenberg’s invention of the typography this situation, the fashion designer, Paul Poiret which could be a driving force to develop a (1879-1944) felt the requirement for new level fashion magazine. The main subjects were illustration, so he used fashion illustration as the concerned about the record of clothes, the medium to express his own images and started popular clothes of high class or the stage the relationship between designer and illustration. costume. In this time, it was regarded as the Afterward, it took the opportunities to draw many record to describe the social costume as the artists into the fashion illustration works.(Fig. 2-3) artist’s pure work rather than as fashion The emerging Fauvism and Cubism gave an
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effect on fashion illustration as well as on the style softer and more natural-running feminine of Art Deco. In this regard, the color theory of silhouette from the rectilinear. Also, along with the Fauvism was expressed to be bright and birth of this new silhouette, the fashion illustration splendid and the shape theory of Cubism was world had an aspect of the pictorial image rather shown to be plane and geometric screen than the graphic image. In this regard, the composition of. pictorial background put on the expressionism, In 1910’s, there arose Art Deco of the eastern, i.e., it was characterized by the lines that are free the decorative and romantic expression style. To and expressive through the typical skillful draw the oriental colors and the mystery manipulation of Expressionism based on the atmosphere under its influence, the elaborate traditional pictures. and neat images were reflected in the fashion In these days, Karl Erickson(1981-1958) illustration. showed how to make drawing with the free skillful In 1920’s, as an industrial design had been manipulation in pale coloring.(Fig.4) And a affected as a whole by the formative movement of surrealist, Salvador Dali worked and studied Cubism Constructivism, the picture of fashion Fashion Illustration in the art level as well as he illustration transformed to the simple image to use actively tried to interchange it with the fine art. straight line instead of curve. And it got the subtle The fashion illustration between 1930’s and result from the woodblock that was plane- 1940’s was differentiated by the added fashion processed and neutral tints-colored. This shows message, but it still had the pictorial base as if it the complete ground of the legitimate Art Deco. showed one piece of picture. The then fashion illustrators who were mainly 3) In 1930’s -1950’s affected from Henri de Toulouse Lautrec (1864- From the 1930’s, the fashion transformed to 1901) and Edgar Degas (1834-1917), were Eric,
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Buche, Beraar, Gruo, etc. Their style of drawing against the subjective aesthetics of abstract has a graceful and feminine atmosphere to expression, which affected the clothes to use new highlight the silhouette of clothes for the line- materials such as metal, glass, paper, vinyl, etc. centered simple background. Modernism of Pop Art and the cult of youth Surrealism, to be technically free by collage swelled up to fashion illustration. and empirical photography, is recognized as the In this correspondence, a Spanish illustrator, art movement to give great effect on the postwar Antonio tried to express public and mass modern art and illustration field.(Fig.5) productive images based on the Modernism of Illustration in the 1950’s was based on the Pop Art, escaping from noble and aristocratic legitimate drawing style of the 1930’s to the ones.(Fig. 6-7) 1940’s that looked like one piece of painting, and After the 1960’s, as the standardization by it had a trend of line highlight and simplicity The industrialization has affected on fashion expressive silhouette was highlighted by blush, illustration, the fixed formative image became one pen and conte, while the narrative background of the general features. was left out and the use of color was decreased In the 1970’s, as the fashion was returned to remarkably. This kind of expression can be found adult fashion from young one, the romantic mood in the modern fashion illustration. was revived to lengthen the skirt and to do up the body shape more beautifully. This made the 4) In the 1960s -1970’s simple line in the 1960’s transferred into the There came out new fashion phase of the expressive line and the proportion extended to 1960’s. 13-14 life-size by highlighting the length. On the In the art world, the concrete formative other hand, some artists including Antonio consciousness of Pop Art emerged to revolt extended their field of expression by taking the
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paint and the collage techniques using paper Realism, while fashion illustration seemed to and screen tone. move backward. However, at the present time, there are showed more creative works, unlimited 5) From the 1980’s to the present imagination & ideas, and the various changes in There existed many of temporary popularities the technique. Accordingly, fashion illustration in this time than for the past decades, even creates new image to meet the needs of the though the big change as like ‘Minimal’ factor times and extends its field as it absorbs diversely emerged in fashion. a collage, an air brush, the composition of The most striking feature in the expression of photography & illustration, a block print, C.A.D the 1980’s fashion illustration was the new (Computer Aided Design) by computer as well as interpretation on human body and the change of hand drawing to obtains the effects to overlap the related expression style.(Fig. 8-9) The style of more than two images. Also, it expresses cubic fashion illustration has reflected the spirit of each effects using the various embossing and extends time, while it was not escaped from the traditional its field on the benefit of the art expression of the beauty concept because it is regarded as the new technology & media applied to visual art field method to enhance the beauty of the clothes at and with the acceptance of computer grapic. least in the expression of human body. The artists in the 20th century tended to disassemble, distort and reconstruct a human 4. Classification of Techniques body of their own will. Nevertheless, fashion 1) Plane Expression illustration was exceptional in this trend.8) Since the 1970’s, the photography seemed to The plane expression had been used for the be brought to the fore due to the control of Hyper realistic reenactment by the end of the 19th
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century and is being developed as the most coloring by using compressed air without brush. basic expression method. After the 20th century, In the modern art, there are many unique pictures the expression technique seems to be more by Surrealist using airbrush. Hyper Realism is diverse as it has been developed for the image also the technique to make it possible to express expression. Besides the hand drawing which is the details such photograph or to describe the made mostly on the paper, it extends the natural expression that is very difficult by hand. expression by using new materials or medium (Fig.11) such as block print, airbrush, connection with (3) Woodblock Print Indian ink & photography, computer graphic. It was the mostly used technique in the early (1) Hand Drawing fashion illustration before the photography The mostly used materials are the most basic emerged or the press was generalized. In the expression materials such as pencil, pen, 17th century, Etching technique had been used charcoal, conte, colored pencil, pastel and water mainly as the print technique to express the color, acryl colors, poster color, marker, etc. details in spite of much limitation before the The hand drawing technique is the oldest form photography spread out. of expression, but depending on the artist’s ability In the 19th century, there were introduced it can generate some of the most dynamic work various print techniques such as Engraving, of art. lithograph, silkscreen, monoprint, etc. which are Although with easier access to material, it used to highlight unique and personality even at demands greater ingenuity and creativity in the present time when is much advanced expression.(Fig.10) technically.(Fig.12-13)
(2) Air Brush (4) Indian Ink It’s the expression technique to spray ink for Indian ink, the oriental painting technique with a
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long history, is using the single material, Ink. With on illustration. The technique to use photograph the ink gradation and the power of brush, it can is advanced to Photo Collage to combine picture express even three-dimensional effect and and photo, the series of Photo Montage to texture as well as the shades & the movement of compose the photos, and Photo Grid to lattice the light. Indian ink was not limited to oriental art different mage photos.(Fig.15)
technique, and has been made several trials to (6) Computer Graphic apply new techniques.(Fig.14) The development of computer technique is the (5) Photograph new art field to open new possibility of the The development of the photograph has expression. As the connection between the influenced much on all of the visual arts as well as science and the art is represented with new
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expression technique of new shape & new In the part or whole of its works, there are one image, it is extending the field of fashion art or many sides where the papers with different illustration to show unlimited possibilities like the textures and colors like newspaper or wall paper composition with the pictures, the connections are cut, pasted, put side by side and overlapped, with hand drawing and with the relief expression, and then the lines or the colors are added by etc.(Fig.16-17) charcoal or coloring on the above. The artists to use this technique mainly are Braque and 2) Cubic Expression Picasso who designed the technique to draw out In fashion illustration, the creative techniques aesthetic effect by pasting up various papers on begin to appear in highlighting the molding of canvas.(Fig.18) clothes with various methods to describe the (2) Collage texture of the materials and the expression of ‘Collage’, came from a French word, Coller design as well. In order to express the texture of (paste), mentioned to the technique to cut and materials, fashion illustration should be escaped paste the common inartistic materials. from basic expression techniques and transfer The word, ‘Collage’ used in the modern art was into the cubic and sensitive techniques as set up as Alfred Barr Jr. gave ‘Paper Pasting’ the follows. name of ‘Collage’ in the 20th century and divert (1) Papier Colle its meaning to the picture technique to paste Papier Colle is referred as the collage to use a printing, fabric, metal, pieces of wood, soil, and paper as material, which is differentiated from the leaves on the screen for composition. Papier present general collage by the used materials Colle tried by Cubism, became diverse by and is limited to the case it put the formative Dadaism and its meaning & methods became value in priority. broader.(Fig.19)
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(3) Frottage shade.(Fig.21)
Frottage has a meaning of
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III. Image Expression Style in Fashion 2. Expression of a Conceptual Image Art Illustration Techniques to express conceptual image are associated with disposition and composition of 1.Concept of Image multiple images. Manipulation of the point of Dictionary definition of image broadly translates focus can be achieved though various means, into visualizations of forms, shapes, visions and including symmetrical arrangement or contrasting pictures. In the original sense, an image signifies disposition a form that resembles the original, a visual object 1) Combination of dual image that is mirrored unto a different type of object. In the field of art, an image is a form of expression Dual image can be produced to deliver the employed by the artist to metaphorically capture strong image through the contrast of the an object of beauty. Arheim defines an image as unbalanced images. Also, the dual image exists a figure borne in the mind of a viewer with when one image can be derived from another structural congeniality to the visual object. image. Accordingly, appreciation for images expressed The “Bull Head” of Picasso, which consists of in the illustration can be found from the bicycle handle and saddle. This old bicycle is a interpretation of the corresponding code. good example to find the strong dual image New visual communication is required for new described by the artist’s imagination.(Fig.23-24) culture and the spirit of times in our times, even 2) Symbolism of Image though many of traditional visual languages are used continuously at the present time. Since the In the present times flooded by lots of traditional descriptive illustration could not meet information, it’s very significant to make much of to the request of the times, the graphic artists of knowledge understood at a glance with the Pictorial Modernism emerged after the 1st world symbolic expression on things and thought and war, thought out newly ‘communication image’ to to overcome the barriers among various express machine age and its inspired visual languages through its symbolic expression. concepts. Through such a similar efforts to Symbolic images, that is, literal images with an search for new shapes and images, Conceptual example of shadow or footprint, enables to be Image had been developed in graphic design for visual ‘Marks’ in the literary of thing itself. For decades after the 2nd world war. example, the print or the sketch includes spots The art movements in the 20th century, such as and fingerprint, which appears to be integrated Cubism to structure the space topologically, simultaneously within design even if they are Surrealism to pursue juxtaposition, avant-garde & still recognized as themselves in literary. The the change of scale, Expressionism and Fauvism symbolism of image is expressed in the simple to take pure colors from nature, were inspired form through the simplification and the from Pop Art to revive images in mass communi- symbolization of the shape cation media.9) In addition, the symbol can be the visual replacement of the others in Illustration, one field
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5) Concoction of Image making up Gogh’s ear that doesn’t exist in the original picture and making its logo inconsistent For image highlighting, the images are given with clear beer-cup and the original of portrait. with vitality by concocting from popular portrait or (Fig.28) matters. Illustrators concoct a medium of photograph on common pictures, make montage 6) Reproduction and Imitation of Image and correct with airbrush. It is the technique often used by pop artist along with the reproduction Image imitation shown commonly in the and imitation of image. modern art, makes new image accustomed To apply Gogh’s self-portrait to beer through the reproduction of familiar images. advertisement. It shows the strong image by Reproduction is only for original image to be cited
107 Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 6, No. 3. for itself, and but also to take other images in Fashion Art Illustration. itself. The meaning of image is much changed by The art movements in the 20th century, such as things by side or by its next. Cubism to structure the space topologically, Visual imitation in visual art emerges as surrealism to pursue juxtaposition, avant-garde & ‘Parade’, which imitates the serious subjects in the change of scale, uses the combination with meaningless or stupid manner. the images of Pop Art and the detail techniques For the recent years, historism has given an are combination of dual image, symbolism of effect on the modern graphic designer and have image, mystification of image, picture of image, produced many pieces of parade-trended works. concoction of image, reproduction and imitation To reproduce the photo of the movie star, of image, etc. Marlin Monro under the lettering. ‘Hollywood’ and On the other hand, the representative make it collage, and to use other popular stars expression styles of Fashion Art Illustration are Art and the public food, Cambella can which is also Nouveau, Art Deco, later impressionism, Fauvism the work subject .(Fig.29) Expressionism, Romantic Expressionism, Surrealism, Pop Art, Pluralism, Realism influenced by the times, the cultures and the trend of art and IV. Conclusion a oriental painting, animation affected by other genre. This study is summarized and concluded as As a result to investigate how the expression follows. style of Fashion Art Illustration was affected by Fashion Art Illustration to reflect the situation of the background of the times, it’s proved to give a the times, recognizes the importance of the meaningful effect as a whole on Fashion Art artistry & the creativity, and is being developed Illustration based of the trend of art and culture. creatively through the connection to various Accordingly, it’s required that we study for the techniques. features of the times as well as the current culture The internal expression style of fashion art and the trend of art to find the future direction of illustration is divided into the style using human Fashion Art Illustration. body as medium and the one using the mixture of human and inhuman. And its techniques are firstly divided into the plane expression and the Reference cubic expression. In more details, the techniques of the plane expression are hand drawing, block 1) Jung. Hye. Sun., Fashion Illustration, print, Indian ink, photograph and computer Kyohacsa, 1992, p. 10. graphic, and the ones of cubic expression are 2) Lee. Kyun. Shil., The Printed media, Nanam Papier Colle, Frottage, Embossing, paper Publisher,1990,p. 207. sculpture, etc. 3) Jang. Andrew., The world of Illustration, Since the present new culture and spirit of the Design house ,1993, pp. 80. times requires for visual language in art, many of 4) Yoo. Young. Sun., A Study on the method of image expression techniques are used in expression for fashion illustration visual image
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after 1980, Kyung Hee Yunversity, 2000. Fashion Illustration. London: Macdonald and 5) Kim. Chung., Fashion and Art, Kim Ho Co. Ltd., 1988. Publisher, 1984, p. 347. 14 ) Belvedere. Fashion Look. 6) Park. Mi. Rae., Fashion Illustration, 15) Bill Thames. Drawing Fashion. McGraw Hill, Kyungchunsa, 1987 . 1985 . 7) Kim. Hye. Ja., A study on the style expression 16) E. Sloave. Illustration Fashion. New York: for modern fashion illustration, Hong Ik Harper & Row, 1977. Yuniversity, 1991. 17) Nicholas Darke. Fashion Illustration Today. 8) Park. Mi. Rae, p. 9. London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd., 1987. 9) Philib B. max, The history of graphic 18) Packer, William. Fashion Drawing in Vogue. design,Design house, pp. 449. London: The Conde’ Wast Publications Ltd., 10) Oh.Kyung.Ju., Astudy on the illustration of 1983. suggeston by symbol of the meaning, Sung 19) Prake, Nicholas. Fashion Illustration Today. Shin University, 1993. London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd., 1987. 11) Stven Heller, Grapic Wit, 1996, pp. 4-5. 20) Richard Martin. Fashion and Surrealism. 12) Cho Kyu Hwa, Aesthetics, Soohaksa, 1982 London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd., 1989. 13) Barnes, Colin. The Complete Guide to
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