“IT’S STYLED BY HELEN DRYDEN” THE FINE ART OF GOOD TASTE _______________________________________________________ A Dissertation presented to the Faculty of the Graduate School at the University of Missouri – Columbia _______________________________________________________ In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy (Art History) _______________________________________________________ by SARAH MARIE HORNE Dr. Kristin Schwain, Dissertation Supervisor December 2018 ©Copyright by Sarah Marie Horne 2018 All Rights Reserved The undersigned, appointed by the dean of the Graduate School, have examined the dissertation entitled “IT’S STYLED BY HELEN DRYDEN” THE FINE ART OF GOOD TASTE presented by Sarah Marie Horne, a candidate for the degree of doctor of philosophy, and hereby certify that, in their opinion, it is worthy of acceptance. _________________________________ Dr. Kristin Schwain, Adviser _________________________________ Dr. James A. van Dyke _________________________________ Dr. Michael Yonan _________________________________ Dr. Elisa Glick For Vince, Eli, and Pippa, with love. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This dissertation would not have been possible without the support and encouragement of a great many people. I would like to express my deepest appreciation to my dissertation advisor, Kristin Schwain, who has always acted as an advocate for me and my work. As my advisor she helped me to build the confidence I needed to undertake this project and was indispensable as an editor and sounding board. I also owe a profound debt of gratitude to my committee members James van Dyke, Michael Yonan, and Elisa Glick whose guidance was critical in the formation of this dissertation. My respect for them as experts and as individuals cannot be understated. I would especially like to thank Michael Yonan for encouraging me to continue to pursue my academic interests, even as they led me astray from traditional art historical subjects. My appreciation extends to the entire department of Art History and Archaeology for helping to fund my research by awarding me the Osmund Overby Fellowship. I am also grateful for the department’s support staff, June Davis, Linda Garrison, and Nancy Alexander, whose prompt and faithful assistance helped to ensure my academic success. This dissertation was challenging to research as there is no central archive to consult regarding Helen Dryden and there are no surviving family members to help illuminate her history. As such, I am sincerely grateful to all of the individuals who took time to converse with me and to offer whatever knowledge they may have to aid in my quest. In particular, I would like to thank Amelia Peck, Marcia F. Vilcek Curator of ii American Decorative Arts at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for sharing her thoughtful insights into the Americana Prints produced by Stehli Silks; Russell Flinchum, Associate Professor at North Carolina State College of Design, for taking the time to reflect on my project and share his deep knowledge of the history of American industrial design; New York Times journalist Cathy Horyn, Ed Heys of Hemmings Motor News, and Charles T. Walters, Associate Professor at Bloomsburg University, who graciously shared their own research on Helen Dryden; Jeffrey Meikle, Stiles Professor in American Studies at the University of Texas – Austin, and Carma Gorman, Associate Professor at the University of Texas – Austin, for taking the time to respond to my emails, providing me with knowledge and guidance; Erika Doss for encouraging me and aiding in my research trip to the Studebaker National Museum; and Richard Quinn for allowing me access to his extensive collection of Studebaker publications. Finally, I would like to acknowledge the institutions who took time to assist me in my research by answering questions and sharing their archives, including the Studebaker National Museum, the New York Public Library, the Brooklyn Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Smithsonian Institution Archives, the Sophia Smith Collection at Smith College, the GM Heritage Center, the Toledo Museum of Art, the Hagley Museum and Library, the Society of Illustrators, the Ohio History Connection, and the Special Collections Research Center at Syracuse University Library. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................................................................................................ ii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS....................................................................................................... vi ABSTRACT .......................................................................................................................... xiii INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................ 1 Understanding Commercial Art BIOGRAPHY: 1882 - 1914 ............................................................................................................... 22 CHAPTER 1: ART ILLUSTRATOR ...................................................................................................... 31 Mass Magazines and the Golden Age of Illustration Women in Illustration Fashion Illustration Vogue Magazine Dryden in Vogue BIOGRAPHY: 1914 – 1928 .............................................................................................................. 63 CHAPTER 2: COMMERICAL ARTIST ................................................................................................. 72 Fashion Design – From Concept to Reality All the World’s a Stage – Costume Design and Women’s Fashion Modern American Textiles – The Americana Prints BIOGRAPHY: 1928 – 1938 ............................................................................................................ 102 CHAPTER 3: INDUSTRIAL ARTIST .................................................................................................. 106 Forgotten Femmes – Women in Industrial Design Helen Dryden – Industrial Artist “It’s Styled by Helen Dryden” iv BIOGRAPHY: 1938 – 1972 ........................................................................................................... 135 CONCLUSION ................................................................................................................................ 138 ILLUSTRATIONS ............................................................................................................................ 145 BIBLIOGRAPHY ............................................................................................................................. 200 VITA .............................................................................................................................................. 219 v LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure Page 1. Studebaker President advertisement, 1936. 2 2. Advertisement, Arizona Republic, October 15, 1929, p. 12. 3 3. Anne Rittenhouse, “The Well-Dressed Woman: Costumes for 25 Bridesmaids,” The Inter Ocean, September 15, 1907, illustrated by Helen Dryden. 4. Illustration depicting Helen Dryden looking out the window of her 25 third story apartment. Illustration by D. and H. Ferriss, pictured in “Vie de Bohême in Washington Square,” Vanity Fair, August 1915. 5. Helen Dryden at her work table, ca. 1929. 27 6. Illustration depicting a salon style gathering at the studio of Helen 27 Dryden. Dryden is reading from a book by Indian poet, Rabindranath Tagore. She is accompanied by a man playing music by the French composer Claude Debussy. Illustrated by Anthony Euwer. Pictured in “This is life - In Washington Square,” Vanity Fair, April 1915. 7. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, November 15, 1920. 29 8. Arnold Genthe, Portrait of Helen Dryden, photograph, 1921. 29 9. Helen Dryden, Untitled, Oil on Canvas, n.d. 31 10. Charles Dana Gibson, “The Eternal Question,” ca. 1900s. 34 11. Harrison Fisher, “A Girl’s Number,” The Ladies Home Journal, May 35 1909. 12. John Held Jr., “Teaching Old Dogs New Tricks,” Life, Feb. 18, 1928. 35 13. Cantilever Shoes advertisement, Los Angeles Times, Feb. 3, 1929, B2. 37 14. Jessie Wilcox Smith, cover illustration, Ladies Home Journal, April 41 1905. 15. Jessie Wilcox Smith, cover illustration, Good Housekeeping, April 41 1929. vi 16. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, August 15, 1917. 41 17. Carl Kleinschmidt, fashion illustrations, The Delineator, March 1912. 44 18. Helen Dryden, gowns by Jenny and Worth, fashion illustration, 44 Vogue, March 15, 1922. 19. Helen Dryden, wrap by Bendel, fashion illustration, Vogue, 46 November 15, 1921. 20. Wrap by Bakst, photograph, Vogue, May 15, 1921. 46 21. Paul Iribe, fashion illustration, Les Robes de Paul Poiret, 1908. 47 22. Helen Dryden, advertisements for Lux, Gebrauchsgraphik, 56, 71 September 1, 1928. 23. LeJaren à Hiller, advertisement for Lux, Ladies Home Journal, 56 September 1927. 24. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, May 1, 1916. 57 25. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, December 1, 1917. 57 26. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, June 1, 1920. 57 27. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, November 1, 1921. 57 28. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, October 1, 1914. 58 29. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, August 1, 1910. 58 30. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, Vogue, September 1, 1922. 59 31. Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, Grande Odalisque, oil on canvas, 59 1814, Louvre. 32. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, The Delineator, July 1929. 60, 71 33. Helen Dryden, cover illustration, The Delineator, October