The Martyrdom of Madeline
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INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Each original is also photographed in one exposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6" x 9" black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. UMI A Bell & Howell Information Company 300 North Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor MI 48106-1346 USA 3I3n61-4700 800tS21-o600 FABRICATING IDENTITIES: DRESS IN AMERICAN REALIST NOVELS, 1880 - 1925 by Carolyn L. Mathews A Dissertation Submitted to the Faculty of The Graduate School at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Greensboro 1996 UMI Number: 9715597 Copyright 1996 by Mathews, Carolyn Louise All rights reserved. -
The History of Fashion in France, Or, the Dress of Women from the Gallo
r\ U Ly c r ^ -=4^-^ r J^^^ y^ ^^ ^->^ THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. 3-\MML THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR. THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME, FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUSTIN CHALLAMEL. nv Mrs. CASHEL HOEY and Mr. JOHN LILLIE. S C R I R N E R A N IJ \V K L I' O k 1 J. I»»2. LONDON : PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. John's square. —— CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets —Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies — Paris the temple of fashion —The provinces ^Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown— The causes of fashion —A saying of Mme. de Girardin's —A remark of Mrs. TroUope's — The dress of actresses— Earliest theories of fashion— The Gyna;ceum of Amman First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes "—Lamesangere Other pubhcations—An anecdote concerning dolls— Plan of the History of Fashion in France CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors"and "Palla" — Cleanliness of the GaUic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The " stola "— Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—^Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crj'stal ball—Influence of the barbarians . -13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter The Merovingians —Costumes of skins and felt ; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe," the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers — Various articles of dress— The "suint" —Young girls dress their hair without omamenis— St. -
Emm Truesdellspreterdco. Mv.&
" ' ' MBF" : THE WORLD. WEDNHHIUY BVEWINO, DECEMBER g. IBM. ' " "";"" '"""' W if SWPSJU&IAWFORO pAMMEYEb IE fc Simpson. EHRICH BROS. 1 r 1 IMMENSE CUT IN PRICES, commencing to-morr- ow. 6tb Ave. cor. I5tb St. W Sale of JnfttAuettue. M STAMPED ON A SHOE 1 We take inventory December 26, and our stock is too large for Sale of mm treat Reduction fiTer.J22.St. Great V this time of year. Read what we offer to-morr- ow. These items 0rtental and Domestic MEANS STANDARD OF MERIT, will give an idea of the TREMENDOUS REDUCTIONS IN SAMPLE IK Removal EVERY DEPARTMENT. Sale. SHOES & If RUGS. HOLIDAY SALE OF UTS SLIPPERS, BOOKS. TOYS. CLOAKS. "Jf - Tkree- - of Antiquo K- lots Bugs, Grand Bargains. 0VH T0Y DEPARTMENT IS CROWDED FROM A RPECIAU TItr AUTOCRAT Of THE BRKAK. Trade-Mar- special Inducement Is now offered to early purchasers of IOBN1!in L'NTI'' TUB UESULT OP HO HANDSOMR DOUDLC 4oaising Daghoatan. Yourdes, Our k an IJrery Garment FSAT TADI.E. BV OLIVER WE.NDEI. HOLMES. " CAPES IN FINEST SLIPPERS HK 0UR "N0,ll'0Ll! ASSORTMENTS AND LOW BLACK Holiday Slippers of $1 CLOTH, MELTON, UPPER CAPE TRIMMED I IShamn, Carabagh, Mocca and (luaranler. Men's at a saving from to $2 on every BBAUTIKULLT BOUND IN FINE OILT IN HI, Quality, Sljlr, I'll fc Finish. pair. The assortment is unequalled, and the Inducement Is such TOP. IlUaULAU PRICE HO.. AT J!r.,C,TU1iN,w.DnL,l0i',l nAa' DAV UNT"' "".0-W- " "ITH VELVET COL-- 6oo pairs Ladies' Oxfoids and Jfawis, sizes about 8 ft. -
A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker
LIBRARY v A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker A Dictionary of Men's Wear (This present book) Cloth $2.50, Half Morocco $3.50 A Dictionary of Engraving A handy manual for those who buy or print pictures and printing plates made by the modern processes. Small, handy volume, uncut, illustrated, decorated boards, 75c A Dictionary of Advertising In preparation A Dictionary of Men's Wear Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men's wear trades expressiv of raw and =; finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix con- taining sundry useful tables; the uniforms of "ancient and honorable" independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dress, livery, and so forth. By William Henry Baker Author of "A Dictionary of Engraving" "A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often." —S William Beck CLEVELAND WILLIAM HENRY BAKER 1908 Copyright 1908 By William Henry Baker Cleveland O LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies NOV 24 I SOB Copyright tntry _ OL^SS^tfU XXc, No. Press of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland tf- ?^ Dedication Conforming to custom this unconventional book is Dedicated to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers The 15000 or so Custom Tailors The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills The 22000 -
National Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers
N ATI AL H MF R DI SABLED V R ON O E O OLUNTEE DI R SOL E S , E A D A Y T H I N R O N 0 O . , . f M I \ v MWV M MW J WVWM / —I C A T A L O G U E OF TH E H OME D BL ") ' P R I N TED A T TH E N A TI ON A L F OR I SA E VOL I N TEER SOL D I ER S , N EA R D A Y TON ( m m , . I n the comp l ation ofth s Catalo ue the ob ect in v ew h as been to m ake i i g , j i , - for th e u se and convenience ofthe inm ates ofthe Home a concise findin list , g ofthe L rar For t s r se the oo s ave een arran e in a series of ib y . hi pu po B k h b g d iv sions the ea n feac riefl n icatin its contents . I n the A en a D , h d o h b y d dd d i i g i g , all the oo s rece ve u to the resent ate A ril 1881 are inc u e . B k i d p p d ( p , ) l d d A R R A N GEME N T 1st Division Historv and Travel Biography ( lreneral L iteratu re N ovels Poetry and Dram a Science E ucat on and I nstru ction , d i , R e ligion F ne A rt Arc itectu re esi n and Orn ament i , h , D g Juveniles A D D E N D A Poetry and Dr am a Juven iles Gener al L iteratu re History and Travels Biography Sc ence E ucation and I nstr uct on d , i , i Fine A rt A rc itectu re esi n and Orn ament h , , D g , I N T R O D U C T I O N TN MB Y W TH E A L I R A R is th i s A R Y EL L TN M ost n PU e ft fMr ML O PU A of o o . -
The New York Herald. Whole No
THE NEW YORK HERALD. WHOLE NO. 12,Q87. NEW YORK, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 3, 1871.-TR1PLE SHEflT. PRICE FIVE CENTS. MIBCTOftf FOE ADVERTISERS. LOST AND FOUND. DRY GOODS. DRY UOODB. DRY WOO Dm, DRY OOPJR. op clothes, marked >*katb raoan," 8TEWART * CO. -GO TO EQRICH'S TEMPLE OP FASHION. .A<.Jl.A..A..-A..A-.A. -A..A..A..A . A,.A. -WET CANTON PLANN ELS, 18 CENTS, WORTH 15. Canton flannel* are from East Fortv-nrst down Park avenue . will offer on December 4. additional novel- L* A Thcee vary heavy. fifth and tilth ool- Lost-boxcoming street, AT. MONDAY, STfcRN BROTHERS, Cuitnmrr* ahould ¦iifllrteat to lait ail fnIL XMCBEMKNTS-Nikth Page--Fourth, to Thirty-seventh street, to Sixth avenue, down Sixth avenue lies in , hay umna. to 89 W. at Twenty-third street. Liberal reward if returned Extra Quality 6 FRAME ENGLISH BODY BRUSSELS. Cur Cantnna are of celebrated "Amoakeeg" make. ASTROLOGY.Twelfth Pagx.Fifth column. to above addrets Price only $2 26 per yard, In the price* of our Velvets, Velveteens, Satins, Ribbon*, 887 Sixth avenue, 3X7 Alao, In perfect order, BALL RF.ABON.Mntii Pauk.Fourth column. notwithstanding the announcement of another advance in Re., to make room for our all bonght aluce the '.break" la price*, B1LLIARI4.Ninth Pagx.Klnt oolumn. WHITE SPITZ DOO. TI1B FINDER WILL BE prices. between Twenty-xecond and Twenty.tblrd xtreeu, large lota of Blankets, Comfortable*, Alpaca*. BOARD Lit3 WANTED.Eleventh Paqi -Flrei, necond, LOST.Aliberally rewarded for returning him to 19 East Thirty- ENGLISH TAPESTRY, BRUSSELS, Holiday Good* and Toy*. -
Central Opera Service Bulletin
CENTRAL OPERA SERVICE BULLETIN DECEMBER, 1967 Sponsored by the Metropolitan Opera National Council Central Opera Service • Lincoln Center Plan • Metropolitan Opera • New York, N.Y. 10023 • 799-3467 CENTRAL OPERA SERVICE COMMITTEE R. L. B. TOBIN, National Chairman The National Council JULIUS RUDEL, Co-Chairman New York City Opera National Council Directors MRS. AUGUST BELMONT MRS. FRANK W. BOWMAN GEORGE HOWERTON E. H. CORRIGAN, JR. ELIHU M. HYNDMAN MRS. NORRIS DARRELL MRS. JOHN R. SAVAGE HOWARD J. HOOK, JR. JAMES SCHWABACHER, JR. Professional Committee MAURICE ABRAVANEL RICHARD KARP Salt Lake City Symphony Pittsburgh Opera KURT HERBERT ADLER PAUL KNOWLES San Francisco Opera University of Minnesota VICTOR ALESSANDRO GLADYS MATHEW San Antonio Symphony Community Opera ROBERT G. ANDERSON MRS. LOUDON MELLEN Tulsa Opera Opera Soc. of Wash., D.C. WILFRED C. BAIN ELEMER NAGY Indiana University Hartt College of Music ROBERT BAUSTIAN MME. ROSE PALMAI-TENSER Santa Fe Opera Mobile Opera Guild MORITZ BOMHARD RUSSELL D. PATTERSON Kentucky Opera Kansas City Lyric Theatre JOHN BROWNLEE MRS. JOHN DEWITT PELTZ Manhattan School of Music Metropolitan Opera PAUL CALLAWAY GEORGE SCHICK Opera Soc. of Wash., D.C. Metropolitan Opera STANLEY CHAPPLE MARK SCHUBART University of Washington Lincoln Center EUGENE CONLEY MRS. L. S. STEMMONS No. Texas State Univ. Dallas Civic Opera WALTER DUCLOUX LEONARD TREASH University of S. California Eastman School of Music PETER PAUL FUCHS LUCAS UNDERWOOD Louisiana State University College of the Pacific ROBERT GAY GID WALDROP Northwestern University Juilliard School of Music BORIS GOLDOVSKY MRS. J. P. WALLACE Goldovsky Opera Theatre Shreveport Civic Opera WALTER HERBERT MRS. PAUL P. WILSON Houston Grand Opera Mid-South Reg. -
The Disappearance of Lady Frances Carfax
1911 SHERLOCK HOLMES THE DISAPPEARANCE OF LADY FRANCES CARFAX Sir Arthur Conan Doyle Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan (1859-1930) - Scottish-born English writer known for his detective stories based around the character of Sherlock Holmes. Doyle was a physician before gaining fame as a writer and, in his later years, he devoted most of his time to the study of spiritualism and the occult. Disappear- ance of Lady Frances Carfax, The (1911) - Holmes sends Watson to Europe to find the missing Lady Frances Carfax. DISAPPEARANCE OF LADY FRANCES CARFAX “But why Turkish?” asked Mr. Sherlock Holmes, gazing fixedly at my boots. I was reclining in a cane-backed chair at the moment, and my protruded feet had attracted his ever-active attention. “English,” I answered in some surprise. “I got them at Latimer’s, in Oxford Street.” Holmes smiled with an expression of weary patience. “The bath!” he said; “the bath! Why the relaxing and expensive Turkish rather than the invigorating home-made article?” “Because for the last few days I have been feeling rheumatic and old. A Turk- ish bath is what we call an alterative in medicine- a fresh starting-point, a cleanser of the system. “By the way, Holmes,” I added, “I have no doubt the connection between my boots and a Turkish bath is a perfectly self-evident one to a logical mind, and yet I should be obliged to you if you would indicate it.” “The train of reasoning is not very obscure, Watson,” said Holmes with a mis- chievous twinkle. “It belongs to the same elementary class of deduction which I should illustrate if I were to ask you who shared your cab in your drive this morn- ing.” “I don’t admit that a fresh illustration is an explanation,” said I with some as- perity. -
Small Pox Vaccination for All School Pupils Considered by B, of E
For Value—Shop The Ads XQ4WNSHIB First With The News! The Largest And Best Shops And Keep Astride All The Activities Services In The Area Are Our Of The Town With Your Advertisers. Patronize Them! Home-Town Paper VOL. IX.—No. 25 CARTERET, N. J., FRIDAY, APRIL 25, 1947 PRICE THREE CENTS New School Gets Zoning Post Street Name Duplication Target Heads Fund Canvass Small Pox Vaccination Head Seen Of Rankin; Heads Revision Group Suggests Names of War would "be unwise* for him to ac- Heroes be Assigned cept the appointment." Willard For Avenel Dunham, Fords, former member For All School Pupils To Avoid Repetition of the Board of Education, was ap.- pointed to take Mr. Winquist's Miss Scheraierhora Said WOODBRIDGE—A survey of all place. Due for Retirement street names in the Township, in an effort to eliminate duplications, Considered by B, of E. At School Year Qose will be made in the near future on Proposed B. of E. the recommendation of Third WOODBRIDGE—From all indi- Ward Committeeman Herbert B. cations, Miss Bertha Schermer- Move is Delayed horn, principal at Avenel School, Rankin. HiURun Autoist Pays an ExtraMass hnoculatioM will not be reappointed when ap- Mr. Rankin, at a meeting of the pointments for the school year Township Committee Monday, Legality of Suggested 1947-48 are made by the Board of $25 as 1st Anti-Noise OffenderIs Not Essential, Education at an adjourned meet- termed the duplication of street Change to Elective names, "one Of the most annoying WOODBRIDGE — The first skanik also of Perth Amboy. -
The French Powder Mystery
The French Powder Mystery Ellery Queen Foreword EDITOR’S NOTE: A foreword appeared in Mr. Queen’s last detective novel written by a gentleman designating himself as J. J. McC. The publishers did not then, nor do they now, know the identity of this friend of the two Queens. In deference to the author’s wish, however, Mr. McC. has been kind enough to pen once more a prefatory note to his friend’s new novels and this note appears below. I have followed the fortunes of the Queens, father and son, with more than casual interest for many years. Longer perhaps than any other of their legion friends. Which places me, or so Ellery avers, in the unfortu- nate position of Chorus, that quaint herald of the olden drama who craves the auditor’s sympathetic ear and receives at best his willful impatience. It is with pleasure nevertheless that I once more enact my role of prologue-master in a modern tale of murder and detection. This pleasure derives from two causes: the warm reception accorded Mr. Queen’s first novel, for the publication of which I was more or less responsible, under his nom de plume; and the long and sometimes arduous friendship I have enjoyed with the Queens. I say “arduous” because the task of a mere mortal. In attempting to keep step with the busy life of a New York detective Inspector and the intellectual activity of a bookworm and logician can adequately be described only by that word. Richard Queen, whom I knew intimately long before he retired, a veteran of thirty-two years service in the New York police department, was a dynamic little gray man, a bundle of energy and industry. -
If You Want to Read the Books in Publication
If you want to read the books in publication order before you discuss them this is the list for you. For the books the year indicates the first publication, whether in the US or UK, and where possible we have given the alternative US/UK titles. The collections listed are those that feature the first book appearance of one or more stories: 1920 The Mysterious Affair at Styles 1922 The Secret Adversary 1923 Murder on the Links 1924 The Man in the Brown Suit 1924 Poirot Investigates – containing: The Adventure of the ‘Western Star’ The Tragedy at Marsdon Manor The Adventure of the Cheap Flat The Mystery of Hunter’s Lodge The Million Dollar Bond Robbery The Adventure of the Egyptian Tomb The Jewel Robbery at the Grand Metropolitan The Kidnapped Prime Minister The Disappearance of Mr Davenheim The Adventure of the Italian Nobleman The Case of the Missing Will 1925 The Secret of Chimneys 1926 The Murder of Roger Ackroyd 1927 The Big Four 1928 The Mystery of the Blue Train 1929 The Seven Dials Mystery 1929 Partners in Crime – containing: A Fairy in the Flat A Pot of Tea The Affair of the Pink Pearl The Adventure of the Sinister Stranger Finessing the King/The Gentleman Dressed in Newspaper The Case of the Missing Lady Blindman’s Buff The Man in the Mist The Crackler The Sunningdale Mystery The House of Lurking Death The Unbreakable Alibi The Clergyman’s Daughter/The Red House The Ambassador’s Boots The Man Who Was No.16 1930 The Mysterious Mr Quin – containing: The Coming of Mr Quin www.AgathaChristie.com The Shadow on the Glass At the ‘Bells -
The Other Side of the Story by the Same Author
THE OTHER SIDE OF THE STORY BY THE SAME AUTHOR Ideas of Order in the Novels of Thomas Pynchon Class Porn ( ( ( (( ( $ %$% "(( $ $"( ($! '( #$( $&( 8C5%22O 5.L%CD.JNO C%DDO }pupÓ pwÓ wÓ Open access edition funded by the National Endowment for the Humanities/ Andrew W. Mellon Foundation Humanities Open Book Program. Copyright © 1989 by Cornell University All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book, or parts thereof, must not be reproduced in any form without permission in writing from the publisher. For information, address Cornell University Press, Sage House, 512 East State Street, Ithaca, New York 14850, or visit our website at cornellpress.cornell.edu. First published 1989 by Cornell University Press First printing, Cornell Paperbacks, 1992 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hite, Molly, 1947– The other side of the story : structures and strategies of contemporary feminist narrative / Molly Hite. p. cm. Includes index. ISBN-13: 978-0-8014-2164-8 (cloth) — ISBN-13: 978-0-8014-8017-1 (pbk.) 1. English fiction—Women authors—History and criticism. 2. English fiction—20th century—History and criticism. 3. Feminism and literature— History—20th century. 4. Narration (Rhetoric) 5. Rhys, Jean—Technique. 6. Lessing, Doris May, 1919– Golden notebooks. 7. Walker, Alice, 1944– Color purple. 8. Atwood, Margaret Eleanor, 1939– Lady Oracle. I. Title. PR888.F45H58 1989 823'.914'099287—dc19 89-776 The text of this book is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ For Patricia G. Hite and F.