Handicrafts in Maharashtra, Himroo Weaving, Part VII-A
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INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Each original is also photographed in one exposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6" x 9" black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. UMI A Bell & Howell Information Company 300 North Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor MI 48106-1346 USA 3I3n61-4700 800tS21-o600 FABRICATING IDENTITIES: DRESS IN AMERICAN REALIST NOVELS, 1880 - 1925 by Carolyn L. Mathews A Dissertation Submitted to the Faculty of The Graduate School at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Greensboro 1996 UMI Number: 9715597 Copyright 1996 by Mathews, Carolyn Louise All rights reserved. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
Contemporary Phuthai Textiles
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 2004 Contemporary Phuthai Textiles Linda S. McIntosh Simon Fraser University, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons McIntosh, Linda S., "Contemporary Phuthai Textiles" (2004). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 481. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/481 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Contemporary Phuthai Textiles Linda S. McIntosh Simon Fraser University [email protected] © Linda S. McIntosh 2004 The hand-woven textiles of the Phuthai ethnic group continue to represent Phuthai identity but also reflect exposure to foreign elements such as through trade and changes in the regional political power. If one asks a Phuthai woman what is Phuthai dress, she will answer, sin mii lae suea lap lai, or a skirt decorated with weft ikat technique and a fitted blouse of indigo dyed cotton, decorated with hand-woven, patterned red silk. Despite the use of synthetic dyes readily available in the local markets, many women still grow indigo and cotton, and indigo-stained hands and the repetitious sounds of weaving are still found in Phuthai villages. This paper focuses on the Phuthai living in Savannakhet Province, Laos, but they are also found in Khammuan, Bolikhamsay, and Salavan provinces of Laos as well as in Thailand and Vietnam.1 Contemporary refers to textile production in the last thirty years but particularly in the last ten years after the liberalization of the Lao government policies and the return of private business and tourism after the 1980s. -
Innovation in Design of Traditional Mashru Textiles for Product Diversification
INNOVATION IN DESIGN OF TRADITIONAL MASHRU TEXTILES FOR PRODUCT DIVERSIFICATION Synopsis of Proposed Ph. D. Thesis By Priyanka Kumari (Registration No: Fo FCSC/2/150, Dated: August 7th 2013) Guided By Prof. (Dr.) Anjali Karolia Department of Clothing and Textiles Dean Faculty of Family and Community Sciences Department of Clothing and Textiles Faculty of Family and Community Sciences The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda Vadodara, Gujarat India June 2019 Endorsement from the Supervisor Ms. Priyanka Kumari has researched extensively on the topic “Innovation in Design of Traditional Mashru Textile for Product Diversification” vide registration no. FoFCSC/2/150 (Dated: 07-08-2013). She has presented her progress of work in seminars well attended by teachers and students of department. She has presented following papers: “Design intervention for handloom silk fabric of Bihar”, in International conference on Empowering Khadi and Handloom through Design Intervention Organized by Consortium of Green Fashion, an initiative of School of Fashion Technology, Pune and in association with Department of Clothing and Textiles faculty of Family and community Science The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda on 30th September and 01st October 2016. “Mesmerizing Mashru Craft and Need of Geographical Indication (GI)”, in International Case Symposium on Fashion, Retail & Management Organized by Department of Fashion Management Studies–NIFT,Bhubneshwar India on 19th and 20th November 2015. She has published following papers: “Voyage of a traditional woven craft – Mashru” , in proceedings of International Textiles and Costume Congress -2015 organized by Marmara University, Istanbul , Turkey on 4th -6th November 2015 (ISBN:978-605-87108- 4-9) “Mesmerizing Mashru Craft and need of Geographical Indication (GI)” in book named “Case Handbook of Fashion, Retail and Management”, Publisher- Pragun Publication, year of publication-2018, [ISBN 978-93-80397-90-0] Ms. -
The Crafts and Textiles of Hyderabad and Telangana 11 Days/10 Nights
The Crafts and Textiles of Hyderabad and Telangana 11 Days/10 Nights Activities Overnight Day 1 Fly U.S. to Hyderabad. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to Hyderabad your hotel by private car. Day 2 The city of Hyderabad was constructed in 1591 by King Hyderabad Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, which ruled this region of the Deccan plateau from 1507 to 1687. During this time, the Sultanate faced numerous incursions by the Mughals and the Hindu Marathas. In 1724, the Mughal governor of the Deccan arrived to govern the city. His official title was the Nizam- ul-Muluk, or Administrator of the Realm. After the death of Emperor Aurangzeb, he declared his independence and established the Asaf Jahi dynasty of Nizams. The Nizams of Hyderabad were known for their tremendous wealth, which came from precious gems mined in nearby Golconda (see Day 3), the area's natural resources, a vibrant pearl trade, agricultural taxes and friendly cooperation with the British. Much of the architecture still existing in Hyderabad thus dates from the reigns of the Qutb Shahi Sultans or the Nizams. European influences were introduced by the British in the 19th and 20th centuries. At the center of old Hyderabad sits the Charminar, or "four towers," which dates to 1591 and is surrounded by a lively bazaar and numerous mosques and palaces. This morning we will enjoy a leisurely walk through the area. We will stop to admire the colorful tile mosaics found inside the Badshahi Ashurkhana. This Royal House of Mourning was built in 1595 as a congregation hall for Shia Muslims during Muharram. -
Women's Clothing in the 18Th Century
National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior Pickled Fish and Salted Provisions A Peek Inside Mrs. Derby’s Clothes Press: Women’s Clothing in the 18th Century In the parlor of the Derby House is a por- trait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, wearing her finest apparel. But what exactly is she wearing? And what else would she wear? This edition of Pickled Fish focuses on women’s clothing in the years between 1760 and 1780, when the Derby Family were living in the “little brick house” on Derby Street. Like today, women in the 18th century dressed up or down depending on their social status or the work they were doing. Like today, women dressed up or down depending on the situation, and also like today, the shape of most garments was common to upper and lower classes, but differentiated by expense of fabric, quality of workmanship, and how well the garment fit. Number of garments was also determined by a woman’s class and income level; and as we shall see, recent scholarship has caused us to revise the number of garments owned by women of the upper classes in Essex County. Unfortunately, the portrait and two items of clothing are all that remain of Elizabeth’s wardrobe. Few family receipts have survived, and even the de- tailed inventory of Elias Hasket Derby’s estate in 1799 does not include any cloth- ing, male or female. However, because Pastel portrait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, c. 1780, by Benjamin Blythe. She seems to be many other articles (continued on page 8) wearing a loose robe over her gown in imitation of fashionable portraits. -
Building Character the Civitas Way
Civitas The Official Magazine of Ark Academy #13 Autumn 2014 Autumn #13 Building Character the Civitas Way Building Character the Civitas Way Warm Welcome… Dear Parents, This edition of Civitas is entitled ‘Building Character the Civitas way’. How do we all build character? Well, certainly we can try and model it and we have also talked a great deal about great character traits in assemblies and tutor periods. We have focussed on resilience, integrity and gratitude. These have produced some really reflective moments. The last assembly helped us reflect on what we are grateful for, it is so easy to assume that what we have is the norm, and of course so much is not. So I am grateful to our students and staff for going that extra mile in Charity Week (marvellous moments abound but ‘Strictly’ will be forever a favourite) . I am grateful for my good health this tiring term and all the people who have supported me, and more importantly, the school. I am grateful to the teachers and support staff who step up to the plate when other staff are sick. Students who help each other and particularly help students catch up with or help understand their work. Then there is integrity or doing the right thing when no-one is watching. Please look at our ‘Good Deed Feed’, it warms the heart. There are many unsung heroes, who model what we aspire to be – good citizens, friendly, supportive, kind and life enablers. These are traits that lead for a happy life. Resilience.....aaah the Holy Grail. -
A Study on the Design and Composition of Victorian Women's Mantle
Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 14, No. 6, pp.188~203(2010) A Study on the Design and Composition of Victorian Women’s Mantle * Lee Sangrye ‧ Kim Hyejeong Professor, Dept. of Fashion Design, TongMyong University * Associate Professor, Dept. of Clothing Industry, Hankyong National University Abstract This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women’s dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the 19 th century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A‐ line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three‐ dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women’s suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. -
Traditional Indian Textiles Students Handbook + Practical Manual Class XII
Traditional Indian Textiles Students Handbook + Practical Manual Class XII CENTRAL BOARD OF SECONDARY EDUCATION Shiksha Kendra, 2, Community Centre, Preet Vihar, Delhi-110301 In collaboration with National Institute of Fashion Technology Traditional Indian Textiles – Class XII Students Handbook + Practical Manual PRICE : ` FIRST EDITION : 2014 © CBSE, India COPIES : No Part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of the publisher. PUBLISHED BY : The Secretary, Central Board of Secondary Education, Shiksha Kendra, 2, Community Centre, Preet Vihar, Delhi - 110301 DESIGNED & LAYOUT : M/s. India Offset Press, A-1, Mayapuri Industrial Area, Phase-1, New Delhi - 110064 Hkkjr dk lafo/kku mísf'kdk ge Hkkjr ds yksx Hkkjr dks ,d ^¿lEiw.kZ izHkqRo&laiUu lektoknh iaFkfujis{k yksdra=kRed x.kjkT;À cukus ds fy,] rFkk mlds leLr ukxfjdksa dks % lkekftd] vkfFkZd vkSj jktuSfrd U;k;] fopkj] vfHkO;fDr] fo'okl] /keZ vkSj mikluk dh Lora=rk] izfr"Bk vkSj volj dh lerk izkIr djkus ds fy, rFkk mu lc esa O;fDr dh xfjek vkSj jk"Vª dh ,drk vkSj v[k.Mrk lqfuf'pr djus okyh ca/kqrk c<+kus ds fy, n`<+ladYi gksdj viuh bl lafo/kku lHkk esa vkt rkjh[k 26 uoEcj] 1949 bZñ dks ,rn~}kjk bl lafo/kku dks vaxhÑr] vf/kfu;fer vkSj vkRekfiZr djrs gSaA 1- lafo/kku ¼c;kfyloka la'kks/ku½ vf/kfu;e] 1976 dh /kkjk 2 }kjk ¼3-1-1977½ ls ÞizHkqRo&laiUu yksdra=kRed x.kjkT;ß ds LFkku ij izfrLFkkfirA 2- lafo/kku ¼c;kfyloka la'kks/ku½ -
Clothing in Ancient Greece Edited
Clothing in ancient Greece Clothing in ancient Greece and Rome was generally created out of large, single pieces of fabric. Several different pieces of clothing could be worn in various combinations to create multiple outfits. The fabric was also draped, belted and pinned into various styles. In art, it is sometimes very difficult to differentiate the various garments worn as they all seem to be billowy drapes of fabric. In Greece, women usually wore one of two garments on a regular basis. One was the peplos, a style of dress made from a single piece of fabric that is folded over at the top, wrapped around the body and pinned up at the shoulders. Folding down the top created a second layer of fabric that ran down the back and the front of the garment, which was referred to as an apoptygma. The other piece of clothing was worn by both men and women, and was called a chiton. The chiton was very similar to the peplos, except without the apoptygma. This was created by a single piece of fabric wrapped around the body and pinned up on the shoulders, or by two pieces of fabric sewn up both sides with space left for armholes. The men wore a shorter version of the chiton. This, too, could be belted or left as-is. The pins that were often used to hold up these garments worked very similarly to safety pins or brooches, and were called fibulae. The other important piece of clothing for both men and women was called the himation. -
Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Centre for Textile Research Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD 2017 Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The eoN - Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context Salvatore Gaspa University of Copenhagen Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/texterm Part of the Ancient History, Greek and Roman through Late Antiquity Commons, Art and Materials Conservation Commons, Classical Archaeology and Art History Commons, Classical Literature and Philology Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Indo-European Linguistics and Philology Commons, Jewish Studies Commons, Museum Studies Commons, Near Eastern Languages and Societies Commons, and the Other History of Art, Architecture, and Archaeology Commons Gaspa, Salvatore, "Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The eN o-Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context" (2017). Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD. 3. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/texterm/3 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Centre for Textile Research at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The Neo- Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context Salvatore Gaspa, University of Copenhagen In Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD, ed.