Godey's, 1863, January-June Vicki Betts University of Texas at Tyler, [email protected]
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Information to Users
INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Each original is also photographed in one exposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6" x 9" black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. UMI A Bell & Howell Information Company 300 North Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor MI 48106-1346 USA 3I3n61-4700 800tS21-o600 FABRICATING IDENTITIES: DRESS IN AMERICAN REALIST NOVELS, 1880 - 1925 by Carolyn L. Mathews A Dissertation Submitted to the Faculty of The Graduate School at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Greensboro 1996 UMI Number: 9715597 Copyright 1996 by Mathews, Carolyn Louise All rights reserved. -
The Evolution of Fashion
^ jmnJinnjiTLrifiriniin/uuinjirirLnnnjmA^^ iJTJinjinnjiruxnjiJTJTJifij^^ LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA FROM THE LIBRARY OF F. VON BOSCHAN X-K^IC^I Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from Microsoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/evolutionoffashiOOgardiala I Hhe Sbolution of ifashion BY FLORENCE MARY GARDINER Author of ^'Furnishings and Fittings for Every Home" ^^ About Gipsies," SIR ROBERT BRUCE COTTON. THE COTTON PRESS, Granvii^le House, Arundel Street, VV-C- TO FRANCES EVELYN, Countess of Warwick, whose enthusiastic and kindly interest in all movements calculated to benefit women is unsurpassed, This Volume, by special permission, is respectfully dedicated, BY THE AUTHOR. in the year of Her Majesty Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, 1897. I I I PREFACE. T N compiling this volume on Costume (portions of which originally appeared in the Lndgate Ilhistrated Magazine, under the editorship of Mr. A. J. Bowden), I desire to acknowledge the valuable assistance I have received from sources not usually available to the public ; also my indebtedness to the following authors, from whose works I have quoted : —Mr. Beck, Mr. R. Davey, Mr. E. Rimmel, Mr. Knight, and the late Mr. J. R. Planchd. I also take this opportunity of thanking Messrs, Liberty and Co., Messrs. Jay, Messrs. E. R, Garrould, Messrs. Walery, Mr. Box, and others, who have offered me special facilities for consulting drawings, engravings, &c., in their possession, many of which they have courteously allowed me to reproduce, by the aid of Miss Juh'et Hensman, and other artists. The book lays no claim to being a technical treatise on a subject which is practically inexhaustible, but has been written with the intention of bringing before the general public in a popular manner circumstances which have influenced in a marked degree the wearing apparel of the British Nation. -
What to Buy Lor Mas and Where to My I
V f" - t ' AM&t, ' - iv' 'vTw TT' "" PVj.$ 'fiSf' rrt'fr l;"". , ;' EVENING BULLETIN, DECEMBER 18 1807. What to Buy lor Mas and Where to My I " & E. W, Jordan J. T. Waterhouse, Pacific Cycle & Mfg. Company, N. S, Sachs Hawaiian Cycle & Mfg, Co, A, E. Mnrphy Company, Arlington lllock, Hotel .Street. 10 Fort Street. Orookory Department. Km. kin Iti.iio., KoiitKt. No. 520 Fort Street. For Oentlemen KOlt A LADY: A Hawaii Wcycle "NYtiro A Search Light Lamp FOIt MKN: Kino Leather Shopping and llandkur-ehlo- f "Wedgowood llemlngtou Dlrylc SSiOO FOWOKNTLKMKN: A Punching Hag Iligs A Sweater Congress and Oxford Ijieed Shoes Kmhrohlorcd llandker- Uiists Kangaroo ltenl I.aoo and I'uriun and Statuettes " Dny's " l")00 I'lnoSllkUinbiclhs A Peerless Typewriter. In Kroneh Patont Leather and ehiefs Ilandsouio Silk Scarfs II.t f'uir milt Vnnl Calf Silk Dress and Trimmings Queen Vietoriu. Jubilee Ore-ce- nt " 75 00 ' Homcos Busts Uox of I'ino Handkerchiefs For Ladies lllaek and Colored Work liaskets Uox SlipjHirs, lllaek and Colored. SeKsors, Out-glu- ' Hoy's " 50 (X) of Silk Socks. A Hawaii IJIdyela Cases of Ruinb(w ss A Search Light Lamp FOIt LADI1: " " 4o (K) KOIl AOKNTLKMAN: aiton VOll LADIIX: A Veader Cyelometer Cut-gla- ss A Dlcyelc Hell liuii and llutton Oxfoids Ordinnry pieces .Dloyele I.aiup (extra quality)... 5 00 French Kid, Dongola Kid leather Dressing Cases Ileal IjHcu Handkerchiefs A Tennis Dacket. ' Whlto and Urown Canvas lloinstltehetl Ilandkorchlefs Crockery and China " Saddle " " ... "00 IIiukIhoiiio Ulack Idico Sc.ufs Cloth Top Smoking Cap. Ware of a. -
Fashion Through the Ages
Fashion Through The Ages • In the Victorian era, both boys and girls wore dressed until the age of around 5 years old. • High-heeled shoes were worn from the 17th century, and were initially designed for men. • Women often wore platform shoes in the 15th to 17th centuries, which kept their skirts up above the muddy streets. • Wearing purple clothes has been associated with royalty since the Roman era. The dye to make clothes purple, made from snail shells, was very expensive. • Napoleon was said to have had buttons sewn onto the sleeves of military jackets. He hoped that they would stop soldiers wiping their noses on their sleeves! • Vikings wore tunics and caps, but they never wore helmets with horns. • See the objects in the Museum collections all about looking good: http:// heritage.warwickshire.gov.uk/museum-service/collections/looking-good/ • View the history of fashion from key items in the collection at Bath’s Fashion Museum: https://www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/galleries/history- fashion-100-objects-gallery • Google’s ‘We Wear Culture’ project includes videos on the stories behind clothes: https://artsandculture.google.com/project/fashion • Jewellery has been key to fashion for thousands of years. See some collection highlights at the V&A website: https://www.vam.ac.uk/ collections/jewellery#objects A Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet Before you begin you need to pick 4 – 6 colours of thread (or wool) and cut lengths of each at least as long as your forearm. The more pieces of thread you use, the wider the bracelet will be, but the longer it will take. -
The History of Fashion in France, Or, the Dress of Women from the Gallo
r\ U Ly c r ^ -=4^-^ r J^^^ y^ ^^ ^->^ THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. 3-\MML THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR. THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME, FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUSTIN CHALLAMEL. nv Mrs. CASHEL HOEY and Mr. JOHN LILLIE. S C R I R N E R A N IJ \V K L I' O k 1 J. I»»2. LONDON : PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. John's square. —— CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets —Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies — Paris the temple of fashion —The provinces ^Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown— The causes of fashion —A saying of Mme. de Girardin's —A remark of Mrs. TroUope's — The dress of actresses— Earliest theories of fashion— The Gyna;ceum of Amman First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes "—Lamesangere Other pubhcations—An anecdote concerning dolls— Plan of the History of Fashion in France CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors"and "Palla" — Cleanliness of the GaUic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The " stola "— Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—^Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crj'stal ball—Influence of the barbarians . -13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter The Merovingians —Costumes of skins and felt ; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe," the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers — Various articles of dress— The "suint" —Young girls dress their hair without omamenis— St. -
Emm Truesdellspreterdco. Mv.&
" ' ' MBF" : THE WORLD. WEDNHHIUY BVEWINO, DECEMBER g. IBM. ' " "";"" '"""' W if SWPSJU&IAWFORO pAMMEYEb IE fc Simpson. EHRICH BROS. 1 r 1 IMMENSE CUT IN PRICES, commencing to-morr- ow. 6tb Ave. cor. I5tb St. W Sale of JnfttAuettue. M STAMPED ON A SHOE 1 We take inventory December 26, and our stock is too large for Sale of mm treat Reduction fiTer.J22.St. Great V this time of year. Read what we offer to-morr- ow. These items 0rtental and Domestic MEANS STANDARD OF MERIT, will give an idea of the TREMENDOUS REDUCTIONS IN SAMPLE IK Removal EVERY DEPARTMENT. Sale. SHOES & If RUGS. HOLIDAY SALE OF UTS SLIPPERS, BOOKS. TOYS. CLOAKS. "Jf - Tkree- - of Antiquo K- lots Bugs, Grand Bargains. 0VH T0Y DEPARTMENT IS CROWDED FROM A RPECIAU TItr AUTOCRAT Of THE BRKAK. Trade-Mar- special Inducement Is now offered to early purchasers of IOBN1!in L'NTI'' TUB UESULT OP HO HANDSOMR DOUDLC 4oaising Daghoatan. Yourdes, Our k an IJrery Garment FSAT TADI.E. BV OLIVER WE.NDEI. HOLMES. " CAPES IN FINEST SLIPPERS HK 0UR "N0,ll'0Ll! ASSORTMENTS AND LOW BLACK Holiday Slippers of $1 CLOTH, MELTON, UPPER CAPE TRIMMED I IShamn, Carabagh, Mocca and (luaranler. Men's at a saving from to $2 on every BBAUTIKULLT BOUND IN FINE OILT IN HI, Quality, Sljlr, I'll fc Finish. pair. The assortment is unequalled, and the Inducement Is such TOP. IlUaULAU PRICE HO.. AT J!r.,C,TU1iN,w.DnL,l0i',l nAa' DAV UNT"' "".0-W- " "ITH VELVET COL-- 6oo pairs Ladies' Oxfoids and Jfawis, sizes about 8 ft. -
Maryland Historical Magazine Patricia Dockman Anderson, Editor Matthew Hetrick, Associate Editor Christopher T
Friends of the Press of the Maryland Historical Society The Maryland Historical Society (MdHS) is committed to publishing the fnest new work on Maryland history. In late 2005, the Publications Committee, with the advice and support of the development staf, launched the Friends of the Press, an efort dedicated to raising money used solely for bringing new titles into print. Response has been enthusiastic and generous and we thank you. Our most recent Friends of the Press title, the much-anticipated Betsy Bonaparte has just been released. Your support also allowed us to publish Combat Correspondents: Baltimore Sun Correspondents in World War II and Chesapeake Ferries: A Waterborne Tradition, 1632–2000, welcome complements to the Mary- land Historical Society’s already fne list of publications. Additional stories await your support. We invite you to become a supporter, to follow the path frst laid out with the society’s founding in 1844. Help us fll in the unknown pages of Maryland’s past for future generations. Become, quite literally, an important part of Maryland history. If you would like to make a tax-deductible gif to the Friends of the Press, please direct your gif to Development, Maryland Historical Society, 201 W. Monument Street, Baltimore, MD, 21201. For additional information on MdHS publications, contact Patricia Dockman Anderson, Editor, 410-685-3750 x317, or [email protected]. Maryland Historical Society Founded 1844 Ofcers Robert R. Neall, Chairman Louise Lake Hayman, Vice President Alex. G. Fisher, Vice Chairman Frederick M. Hudson, Vice President Burton K. Kummerow, President Jayne H. Plank, Vice President James W. -
MINUTES of the MEETING of the LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM Board of Directors Monday, November 13, 2017 12:30 P.M
MINUTES OF THE MEETING OF THE LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM Board of Directors Monday, November 13, 2017 12:30 p.m. – The Old U.S. Mint New Orleans, Louisiana Members Present: Madlyn Bagneris, Bill Cody, Mary Coulon, Lee Felterman, George Hero, Kevin Kelly, Carolyn Morris, Lawrence Powell, Anne Redd, Melissa Steiner, Rosemary Upshaw Ewing, Lana Sonnier Venable, William Wilton Members Absent: Fairleigh Cook Jackson, Sharon Gahagan, Ann Irwin, Aleta Leckelt, Larry Schmidt Also Present: David Dalia, Susan Maclay, Jason Strada, Julia George Moore LSM Staff Present: Rennie Buras, Greg Lambousy, Yvonne Mack, Steven Maklansky, Maryann Miller, Elizabeth Sherwood, Bridgette Thibodeaux. A quorum was present. Call to Order Dr. Powell called the meeting to order at 12:47 p.m. Reminder was made to attend next board meeting in Natchitoches. A schedule of Sunday events will be circulated in advance. Motion to Adopt the Agenda Kevin Kelly moved to accept the meeting agenda and the motion was seconded by Melissa Steiner. The motion was unanimously approved. Motion to Adopt the Minutes Kevin Kelly moved to adopt the meeting minutes from October 23, 2017. The motion was seconded by Melissa Steiner. Corrections to the spelling of Madlyn Bagneris’ name and adding Lana Venable as absent were requested. After corrections, the minutes were unanimously approved. Interim Director’s Report Steven Maklansky provided an update on Prospect 4, the Spanish Exhibition, future NOLA, the Napoleon show, and planned updates to the Presbytere lobby including a King of Endymnion costume and model planes from Wedell-Williams Museum. Irby Committee Report Rennie Buras provided the summary of the commercial lease process. -
A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker
LIBRARY v A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker A Dictionary of Men's Wear (This present book) Cloth $2.50, Half Morocco $3.50 A Dictionary of Engraving A handy manual for those who buy or print pictures and printing plates made by the modern processes. Small, handy volume, uncut, illustrated, decorated boards, 75c A Dictionary of Advertising In preparation A Dictionary of Men's Wear Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men's wear trades expressiv of raw and =; finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix con- taining sundry useful tables; the uniforms of "ancient and honorable" independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dress, livery, and so forth. By William Henry Baker Author of "A Dictionary of Engraving" "A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often." —S William Beck CLEVELAND WILLIAM HENRY BAKER 1908 Copyright 1908 By William Henry Baker Cleveland O LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies NOV 24 I SOB Copyright tntry _ OL^SS^tfU XXc, No. Press of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland tf- ?^ Dedication Conforming to custom this unconventional book is Dedicated to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers The 15000 or so Custom Tailors The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills The 22000 -
Powerhouse Museum
The information below describes objects being borrowed by the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences (Powerhouse Museum): Display in 'Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015' exhibition, 1 May 2018 - 14 October 2018 Date of Publication to MAAS Website: 12 February 2018 Latest Revision Date: 13 July 2018 Lender: Los Angeles County Museum of Art L5442/1 Object lent by Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) as part of 'Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015' Exhibition. Data received from LACMA as follows: Exhibition Theme: 1. Revolution / Evolution Exhibition Subtheme: 1.1 Macaroni Ensemble Ref: RM.1, Object Number: M.83.200.1a, c Title: Man's Coat and Breeches Place: Italy, probably Venice Date: circa 1770 Artist/designer/design house/maker: Unknown Medium/Materials: Silk plain weave with supplementary warp and weft patterning Dimensions: Coat center back length: 35 3/4 in. (90.81 cm); Breeches length: 24 1/2 in. (62.23 cm) Provenance Notes: Acquisition Details: Costume Council Fund Acquisition Date: 1983 Provenance History: Vendor: Galerie Ruf AG. Publication History: Takeda, Sharon Sadako, Kaye Durland Spilker, and Clarrisa M. Esguerra. Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich: DelMonico Books-Prestel, 2016. Web Address: http://collections.lacma.org/node/247916 L5442/2 Object lent by Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) as part of 'Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015' Exhibition. Data received from LACMA as follows: Exhibition Theme: 1. Revolution / Evolution Exhibition Subtheme: 1.1 Macaroni Ensemble Ref: RM.1, Object Number: M.2007.211.688a Title: Man's Waistcoat Place: France Date: circa 1770 Artist/designer/design house/maker: Unknown Medium/Materials: Silk satin with metallic-thread embroidery Dimensions: Waistcoat center back length: 26 in. -
National Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers
N ATI AL H MF R DI SABLED V R ON O E O OLUNTEE DI R SOL E S , E A D A Y T H I N R O N 0 O . , . f M I \ v MWV M MW J WVWM / —I C A T A L O G U E OF TH E H OME D BL ") ' P R I N TED A T TH E N A TI ON A L F OR I SA E VOL I N TEER SOL D I ER S , N EA R D A Y TON ( m m , . I n the comp l ation ofth s Catalo ue the ob ect in v ew h as been to m ake i i g , j i , - for th e u se and convenience ofthe inm ates ofthe Home a concise findin list , g ofthe L rar For t s r se the oo s ave een arran e in a series of ib y . hi pu po B k h b g d iv sions the ea n feac riefl n icatin its contents . I n the A en a D , h d o h b y d dd d i i g i g , all the oo s rece ve u to the resent ate A ril 1881 are inc u e . B k i d p p d ( p , ) l d d A R R A N GEME N T 1st Division Historv and Travel Biography ( lreneral L iteratu re N ovels Poetry and Dram a Science E ucat on and I nstru ction , d i , R e ligion F ne A rt Arc itectu re esi n and Orn ament i , h , D g Juveniles A D D E N D A Poetry and Dr am a Juven iles Gener al L iteratu re History and Travels Biography Sc ence E ucation and I nstr uct on d , i , i Fine A rt A rc itectu re esi n and Orn ament h , , D g , I N T R O D U C T I O N TN MB Y W TH E A L I R A R is th i s A R Y EL L TN M ost n PU e ft fMr ML O PU A of o o . -
The New York Herald. Whole No
THE NEW YORK HERALD. WHOLE NO. 12,Q87. NEW YORK, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 3, 1871.-TR1PLE SHEflT. PRICE FIVE CENTS. MIBCTOftf FOE ADVERTISERS. LOST AND FOUND. DRY GOODS. DRY UOODB. DRY WOO Dm, DRY OOPJR. op clothes, marked >*katb raoan," 8TEWART * CO. -GO TO EQRICH'S TEMPLE OP FASHION. .A<.Jl.A..A..-A..A-.A. -A..A..A..A . A,.A. -WET CANTON PLANN ELS, 18 CENTS, WORTH 15. Canton flannel* are from East Fortv-nrst down Park avenue . will offer on December 4. additional novel- L* A Thcee vary heavy. fifth and tilth ool- Lost-boxcoming street, AT. MONDAY, STfcRN BROTHERS, Cuitnmrr* ahould ¦iifllrteat to lait ail fnIL XMCBEMKNTS-Nikth Page--Fourth, to Thirty-seventh street, to Sixth avenue, down Sixth avenue lies in , hay umna. to 89 W. at Twenty-third street. Liberal reward if returned Extra Quality 6 FRAME ENGLISH BODY BRUSSELS. Cur Cantnna are of celebrated "Amoakeeg" make. ASTROLOGY.Twelfth Pagx.Fifth column. to above addrets Price only $2 26 per yard, In the price* of our Velvets, Velveteens, Satins, Ribbon*, 887 Sixth avenue, 3X7 Alao, In perfect order, BALL RF.ABON.Mntii Pauk.Fourth column. notwithstanding the announcement of another advance in Re., to make room for our all bonght aluce the '.break" la price*, B1LLIARI4.Ninth Pagx.Klnt oolumn. WHITE SPITZ DOO. TI1B FINDER WILL BE prices. between Twenty-xecond and Twenty.tblrd xtreeu, large lota of Blankets, Comfortable*, Alpaca*. BOARD Lit3 WANTED.Eleventh Paqi -Flrei, necond, LOST.Aliberally rewarded for returning him to 19 East Thirty- ENGLISH TAPESTRY, BRUSSELS, Holiday Good* and Toy*.