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Home , Agbada, Ailette, Alacha, Alamode, Armenian cochineal, Around the Fur

The Complete Dictionary

Elizabeth J. Lewandowski

The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com

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Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski

Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski.

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. and —Dictionaries. I. . GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward. Among these unhappy mortals is the writer of dictionaries; whom mankind have considered, not as the pupil, but the slave of science, the pioneer of literature, doomed only to remove rubbish and clear obstructions for the paths through which naming and Genius press forward to inquest and glory, without bestowing a smile on the humble drudge that facilitates their progress. Every other author may aspire to SCARECROW PRESS, INC. praise; the lexicographer can only hope to escape reproach; and even this negative recompense has been Publishedyet granted in the United very few.States of America by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing—Dr. Samuel Group, Johnson, Inc. preface to The English Dictionary 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200 Lanham, Maryland 20706 www.scarecrowpress.com

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British Cataloging in Publication Information Available

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Printed in the United States of America ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Manufactured in the United States of America. Contents

Acknowledgments vii Introduction ix

DICTIONARY 1

Appendix A: Garment Types 327 Appendix B: Garment by Country 397 Appendix C: Garment Types by Era 517 Selected Bibliography 571 About the Author and Illustrator 579

v

Acknowledgments

Many people made this book possible. I want to offer my special thanks to the following peop le for their inspira- tion and assistance: to my husband, Dan, for his computer wizardry; to Dan and to Aaron Solomon for their as- sistance in making many of the 19th-century illustrations possible; to Jessica McCleary and Stephen Ryan at Scare- crow Press for believing in this project and prodding me regularly to keep at it; to the interlibrary loan librarians at Midwestern State University who never turned me away when I came asking them for yet another obscure book; to the reference section librarians at libraries across Texas who helped me with access to their rare book collections; to LaLonnie Lehman, fellow , who encouraged me to this project from a private list of fun words into a book; to my fellow faculty members at Midwestern State University who encouraged me to finish this daunting task; to the members and officers of the U.S. Institute for Technology (USITT) who constantly challenge themselves and others to improve themselves and expand the world of ; and to my dear friends who understood when I went into hibernation to finish this project. The illustration of the is dedicated to the memory of Karen Tursi (1959–2010). She used to wear a shako like this, and she made it look good. Finally, my thanks to my parents, Dr. Donald R. and Caroline Schertz, both educators, who instilled in me from a very young age the desire to read, learn, ask questions, and challenge myself to continually grow intellectually.

vii

Introduction

When I began this project 15 years ago, it started in my search for understanding the terminology used in an 18th- century diary written by one of my ancestors. As the years passed, I began to run across more costume terms that were new to me. I jotted them down and began collecting them on notecards. When the notecards threatened to take over my office, the project moved to computer files. When the computer files grew, the project became a book. You never know where the search for knowledge will take you! In the appendices, I have categorized the terms in three ways (when possible): by country of origin, by type of word, and by time period of origin. The time periods were chosen using Lucy Barton’s Historic Costume for the (Boston: Walter H. Baker, 1935), a standard referred to in many texts of the 20th century. In my research I have accessed as many books as were available to me. I have attempted to categorize these terms as carefully as possible, but inevitably there will be mistakes. These errors are mine alone—the errors of a researcher lost in their passion for the project. Errata, additional terms, definitions, and other comments can be sent to the author by visiting mostlyharmlessweb.com. Along the way, I learned that each new age creates its own and its own language for the fashions of the past. The pace at which these fashions change is rapidly accelerating. In five or 10 years, the world will have added hundreds of new clothing terms. I challenge the next generation of lovers of and costume to record those words for posterity.

ix

A

à gomito: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). . A à la Maintenon: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). that was cut full at the and narrow at the wrist. . Coiffure made fashionable by Mme de Main- à gozzo: See à gomito. tenon. ‘a ‘iku: United States of America. Hawaii. High ; à la Marie Stuart: (1840–1865 C.E.). United stiff collar. States of America. Woman’s evening with a à jour: France. of drawn work or another openwork. point in the center front. à la Byron: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Man’s à la Marlborough: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). unstarched, floppy . France. Ladies’ fashion named for John Churchill, à la chale: (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1868, a heart- first duke of Marlborough (1650–1722 C.E.). shaped . à la : Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. à la du Barry corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s untied cravat worn crossed in front. France. Popular from 1850 to 1867, a with à la plaquette: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. -shaped front. In 1787, a woman’s hairstyle where the hair was à la Farare: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. In worn in spherical shapes by the ears. 1787, a woman’s wide-brimmed, very high crowned à la Raphael: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1868, a square that was trimmed with three feathers and neckline. eschelles. à la Titus: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). à la Figaro: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. France. A woman’s hairstyle resembling the hair of Garments in the fashion of the country a person condemned to the guillotine. It was often worn in the 1784 production of The Marriage of Figaro. worn with a red ribbon tied snugly around the neck. à la V: (1910–1919 C.E.). United Kingdom. à la Victime: See à la Titus. Named for King George V who popularized the à la vielle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Form of quilling. fashion, a man’s soft with a short - à l’espignole: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Fan that style brim. folded at the joint. à la Grecque corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). A line: (20th century). Triangular or A-shaped dress France. Popular from 1850 to 1867, a bodice with a worn belted or unbelted. See also trapeze. low, square, off-the-shoulder décolletage. The bodice à l’innocence reconnue: Late Georgian (1750–1790 had vertical extending from the shoulders to C.E.). France. In 1770s, a fashion popularized the center front . from trial of a cook-maid. à la jardiniere: Romantic (1815– a tsi’kin: United States of America. Blackfoot Indians’ 1840 C.E.). Austro-Hungarian Em- . pire. An 1830s sleeve style featur- a ‘ula: United States of America. Hawaii. Reddish; ing short, tight that were brownish. ruched just below the shoulder. a-a: Borneo. Open slit. à la Louis XV corsage: Crinoline ‘a‘a lole: United States of America. Hawaii. European (1840–1865 C.E.). France. A bod- cloth. ice with the center section in the ‘a‘a moni: United States of America. Hawaii. A purse. à la George V shape of a stomacher. ‘a‘a niu: United States of America. Hawaii. Coconut cloth.

1 2 ‘a‘a puhaka

‘a‘a puhaka: United States of America. Hawaii. ; ab-i-rawan: . Literally “running water,” a kind of . . ‘a‘a‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Coconut cloth. abillement: See biliment. aaca: India. border. abiti: See vestiti. ‘a‘ahu: United States of America. Hawaii. Generic term abito da pantalone: Italy. Pantaloon. for clothing. abiyad: Palestine. White. ‘a‘ahu a po‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. A abla: . Tiny mirrors attached with . to the fabric. ‘a‘ahu ali‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. A type of abnet: Jewish. Long, or embroidered or colored tapa worn by people of rank. worn by a high priest or . ‘a‘ahu makaloa: United States of America. Hawaii. A Abocchnai: India. A wedding embroidered in long malo. or with motifs of flowering bushes. ‘a‘ahu ‘oihana piha: United States of America. Hawaii. : Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Red, rectangular A dress . military made of linen or silk and worn fas- ‘a‘ahu pawehe: United States of America. Hawaii. A tened at neck; similar to the Greek . garment made from a patterned mat. abougedid: Abyssinia. Cotton sheeting. aal: India. Red used in fabric painting. It was made abrasam: India. A generic term for silk fabrics. from the roots of Morinda tinctoria and Morinda cin- abrigo: Spain. . trifolia. abrigo cruzado: Spain. Double-breasted coat. ‘a‘amo‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. ; abrigo en forma de capa: Spain. coat. snakeskin. abrigo : Spain. . aar: India. An awl used in embroidery. abrigo raglan: Spain. Raglan coat. ‘abā: See cogā. abrigo trinchera: Spain. . aba: 1. Palestine. A in the shape of a folded rect- absinthe: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1871, a greenish angle that is left unseamed at the sides and is held gray color. in position by cords or ties under the arms. Worn abu hizz ahmar: Palestine. Fabric with linen weft and by both sexes, it is four feet long and five feet wide. silk warp. It is commonly made of woven camel or goat hair abu miten: Palestine. Fabric with narrow purple stripe or coarse woolen in dark solids or stripes. See also between wider red pink stripes. abayah. 2. See zibun. 3. Portugal. Skirt. 4. See chuga. abu sab’in: Palestine. Fabric with narrow red pink abaaya: Palestine and United Arab Emirates. A wom- stripe between wider white stripes. an’s black wool cloak which envelopes the body. It ac: Romania. Needle. may be elaborately embroidered down the front, on ac cu gămălie: Romania. Pin. the side gores, and at the . Academician: (1950–1960 C.E.). Man’s hairstyle with abaca: Philippine Islands. Manila from trunk of high side part. abaca plant, Musa textilis, used to make straw . acajou: France. Mahogany color. abaissé: France. Lowered, as a hem or . acala cotton: United States of America. Cotton variety abalone: United States of America. Mollusk shell lined grown extensively in Texas, Oklahoma, and Arkan- with mother-of- and used to make , sas. Staple length is 1-1/16 inches. beads, and ornaments. acanalado: Spain. Crepoline. aba-posztó: Hungary. Coarse woolen fabric. acanthus: A foliage design based on the Mediterranean abarenoshi: . Wild abalone strips. plant, Acanthus spinosus. abayah: 1. Palestine. Man’s cloak. 2. Egypt. Cloak. acca: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Silk fabric with abb: Term used by weavers to indicate the warp or threads woven in. Believed to have been made in the inferior part of the fleece at the edge. Acre, a Syrian seaport. abba: See aba. accollé: France. To be entwined around the neck; col- ábbasi: India. Cloth dyed magenta. lared. See also acollé. abbé : Tiered shoulder cape. accordion pleats: Narrow pleats resembling an accor- ’s cloth: Rough, canvaslike cotton fabric woven in dion. basket weave; similar to ’s cloth. accroche-coeur: France. Little flat curl of hair worn at abe: Nigeria. . the . abenet: Long sash worn by Jewish high priest. ačē attāmitō: Ethiopia. King’s gold worn on the abgar: Bulgaria. Cotton cloth pouch worn on a cord right hand. over the shoulder. ačē gumbō: Ethiopia. King’s silver staff with gold wire ab-i-hawa: India. Literally “woven air,” a kind of muslin. wound around it. aegis 3 ačē kéčō: Ethiopia. King’s gold armlet worn on the right adata: Lithuania. Needle. forearm. adati: India. Fine, light cotton fabric from Bengal, India. ačē saččō: Ethiopia. King’s gold . addhacina: India. A gauzelike silk cloth. Acele: Trade name by DuPont for made using the ade: Yoruba beaded with a of rope beads. acetate process. adelaide: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. acessório: Portugal. Accessory. A steel blue color. aceta: rayon. Adelaide blue: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). A steel blue acetaat: Holland. Acetate. color. acetate: (1920–1930 C.E.). United States of America. One Adelaide : of the first man-made . Patented in 1925 by Romantic Celanese Corporation. (1815–1840 C.E.). acetato: Portugal and Spain. Acetate. United King- acetato de celulosa: Spain. Cellulose acetate. dom. Popular acetinado: Portugal. Satiny; silky. from 1830 to ach: See al. 1865, an ankle- achates: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Agate. high, side-laced achchhadanaka: India. Short shoulder . boot with pat- achkan: India. Man’s high-collared coat. See also sher- ent toe Adelaide boot wani. and heel. It was : Type of dye used on fibers that re- sometimes fringed or fur trimmed at the top. Named quires acid and heat as assist. It works particularly for Adelaide of Saxe-Coburg. well on protein fibers. Adelaide wool: Fine merino wool from Adelaide, Aus- acier: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1883, a steel gray color. tralia. ackhan: India. A long, flowing coat. Adèle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In April 1856, a ačō: Ethiopia. Gold. woman’s moiré scarf en tablier trimmed with a puff acock: To be turned up at an angle. of ribbon and a deep fringe. 2. In May 1856, a wom- acollé: France. To be entwined or encircling the neck. an’s light with three flounces. It was intended See also accollé. for wear at watering place. acordonado Bedford: Spain. . adhivasa: India. Outer garment. acorn: 1. Small military motif representing rank and adhivikartana: India. A divided skirt. corps. 2. Ornamental knob on men’s cords. adhotari: India. A fine cotton . acrilan: Liquid derivative of natural gas and air used in adhranga: India. Deep blue. creating and other fibers. adinkra cloth: Ghana. Fabric stumped with abstract Acrilon: Trade name for fabric made from acrylic . designs. acrobatic : Lightweight leather shoe with a buck- cloth: Nigeria. Fabric created using . skin sole. adire eleko: Nigeria. Process of using starch paste as a acroc: Hook or clasp. resist on fabric. acrylic: Light, but bulky, man-made fiber. adjagba beads: Ghana. Beads made of pulverized Euro- acter: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, a steel gray color. pean glass bottles and beads. acton: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). worn under Admiralty cloth: United Kingdom. cloth. the armor. See also . Adonis : Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Very acus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). or bodkin of fashionable, very expensive wig of fine gray or white copper, bone, or silver. hair. ada: Lithuania. Leather. adonize: To dress up; to dandify. Ada : Square canvas used for needle work. adoucir: France. To soften. adaabo: Ghana. Royal of gold. adrianople: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1876, adaftō: Ethiopia. Silver . an unglazed cotton fabric. In 1880, the term ap- adagan: Ireland. Gaelic word for a little hat or a cap. plied to a red fabric printed with arabesques. adai: India. A jacquard-like device used in Kanchipuram. adriatic green: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in adamas: 1. Very hard precious stone; a diamond. 2. Ro- 1873, a bluish green color. man (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Diamond. adrienne: See sack . adana: India. An imported from Aden. adzalotí: Greece. Counted or measured stitch. adanudo cloth: High grade cotton, silk, or rayon fabric. aegis: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Animal skin that was adarque: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Heart-shaped worn with the of the animal resting on the chest buckler. of the wearer. 4 aegyptium aegyptium: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Perfume made string used to attach two pieces of the garment to- from almond oil, cinnamon, honey, orange blossoms, gether, i.e., sleeve and bodice. and . agneau: France. Lamb fur. aeolian: Lightweight fabric with cotton warp and silk agneau du : France. Tibet lamb fur. weft. See also . agneau : France. Breitschwantz fur. aerdhaite: Ireland. Gaelic word for being sky colored. agnelin: France. Lambskin with wool left on. aerophane: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 agnellino de Persia: Italy. Persian lamb. C.E.). Introduced in 1820, a fine crimped crepe. agnello: Italy. Lamb. aeroplane : (1910–1920 C.E.). Umbrella with Agnes Sorel bodice: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United -carved ivory handle cut to resemble aviators. Kingdom. Introduced in 1861, a square-necked day Two of the six ribs were shorter, creating an airplane- bodice with sleeves. wing shape. Agnes Sorel corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United aetherial: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Kingdom. Popular from 1851 to 1867, the bodice of a A sky blue color. -robe with a square neckline and bishop sleeves. afe: Samoa. A hem. Agnes Sorel style: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. afef: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Stylized amulet. Introduced in 1861, the . Affe: . Monkey fur. ago: Italy. Needle. Affenpeltz: Germany. Monkey fur. ago duku: Ashanti. cloth. affiquet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Brooch Agra gauze: Very fine, silk gauze with a pinned to the upturned hat brim. stiff finish. afia: Nigeria. A Tiv man’s ceremonial hat. agrafe: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. A hook, afrikin: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew man’s clasp, or used as a fastening for clothing. . agrafes de centure: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In imitation afshan: India. A spangle. of ancient jewelry, a three-chain trim; the middle afterwelt: In women’s , the intermediate part chain for a , and the others for a key and seal. of the top between the leg and the welt. agraffe: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Fasten- agaat: Holland. Agate. ing consisting of lever and eyelet and used to close agabanee: Syria. Cotton fabric embroidered in silk. armor. agait: Ireland. Gaelic word for agate. agrafka: Poland. Safety pin. : Palestine. of thick wool or goat’s hair cords agrandir: France. To enlarge. which wraps around the head, holding in place agrements: France. Trimmings or ornaments. the kaffiyeh. It is often wrapped in gold and silver águamarinha: Portugal. Aquamarine, the gemstone. threads. See also ‘aqal. agugello: See punta. agala: India. A deep brown stuff. aguja: Spain. Needle. agamid: Philippine Islands. Strong inner bark of plant agulha de tricô: Portugal. needle. used to make cloth and rope. agulhade: See pennbazh. agate: Chalcedony used to make jewelry. It is most com- agun-pat sari: India. Flame colored sari. monly gray or white. ahaddha: India. A strapped shoe. Agatha robe: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 ‘ahapi‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Worn by C.E.). Introduced in 1800, a soft muslin dress held chiefs, a tapa dyed with kukui bark. closed with clasps on the shoulders and worn open ahata tantrika: See anahata. on the left over the skirt. It had snug-fitting short ‘ahiehie: United States of America. Hawaii. A silvery sleeves. gray color. agave: Mexico. Fleshy leaved plant used to create cordage. ‘ahina: United States of America. Hawaii. 1. Blue : 1. Yoruba man’s heavyweight gown worn over . 2. Blue dye. the buba. It is also called gbariye. 2. Nigeria. Man’s ahinvala: India. A silk fabric from Anahilwada. cape of brilliantly colored cotton with printed motifs. aho: Maori. The woof of fabric. It is worn with loose . ah’ta qua o weh: United States of America. Iroquois agemaki: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. Literally moccasins. “rolled-up locks,” a woman’s formal hairstyle. ‘ahu: United States of America. Hawaii. Generic term aghetto: See punta. for an upper body garment. agihila: See agala. ‘ahu hinano: United States of America. Hawaii. A soft Agilon: Trademarked stretch yarn. mat garment plaited from pandanus flowers. aglet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) and Elizabethan ahuasca: Bolivia. Warp faced cloth. (1550–1625 C.E.). Point or metal piece that capped a ahuaska: See avaska. al hilel 5 ahuayo: Bolivia. Woman’s mantle. airplane cloth: Plain weave, water-repellent fabric used ‘ahuna: United States of America. Hawaii. Coat; gar- on airplanes. Presently used in . ment. aision: Ireland. Gaelic word for a . ‘ahunali‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. A red aizome momen: Japan. Indigo-dyed cotton. striped tapa worn by chiefs. ‘ajami: Palestine. Woman’s brightly colored girdle. ‘ahuua: United States of America. Hawaii. A ajarakh: India. A predominantly indigo colored cloth made of dried ti leaves tied to a . with block printing. It is worn by Muslin men as tur- ‘ahu‘ula: United States of America. Hawaii. A feather bans and/or . cape, formerly worn by high chiefs and kings. ajári: Greece. Inferior silver. ái: . The color snow white. ajina: India. Generic term for an animal skin. ai: Samoa. Sew; . ajina yajnopavita: India. A deerskin worn over the left ‘a‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Neck of a gar- shoulder by Hindu ascetics. ment. Ajorstick: Germany. Hem stitch. ‘a‘i kala: United States of America. Hawaii. Collar. ajour: See à jour. ai ling: (1900–1910 C.E.). United States of America. ajrak: Pakistan. Hand-blocked wrapping shawl. Chinese Hawaiian term for a woman’s three-quarter- ajsu: Bolivia. Often worn over a wool dress (almilla), an inch-high collar. worn fastened at the waist with a belt. Aida canvas: Square mesh canvas used for . ajuar: Spain. Trousseau. aigeallan: Ireland. Gaelic word for a breast pin, jewel, akaaka: United States of America. Hawaii. White, very or . thin tapa. aigilean: Ireland. Gaelic word for a tassel or earring. akaka: See akaaka. aiglet: See aglet. ‘akala: United States of America. Hawaii. Pink; pink tapa. aigrette: France. Feather or plume from an egret or akalpa: India. A generic term for clothes. heron. akambo: Ghana. Face marking (disfiguring). aiguille: France. Needle. akane: Japan. The red dye made from madder. aiguille a reprises: France. needle. akanjo: Madagascar. or smock. aiguille a tricoter: France. Knitting needle. akanjobe: See akanjo. aiguillette: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. akathorasbhagarvakomala: India. Very soft fabric. Bow of ribbon that was worn on the right shoulder aka-ume-zome: Japan. A red plum color. of a man’s coat. It was the decorative remnant of the akcha watana: Ecuador. Tape used for winding wom- ties that once held up the sword belt. en’s hair. ailanthus silk: from the Attacus atlas moth. akcha watarina: Ecuador. Quichua term for a band ailbheag: Ireland. Gaelic word for a ring. worn woven around a woman’s hair. ailbheag cluais: Ireland. Gaelic word for an earring. akertjes: Holland. Tassels. ailbheagan airgid: Ireland. Gaelic word for silver rings. aketon: See acton. aile: France. Wing. akhi laj: India. Literally “complete shame,” the veil aile de pigeon: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. worn over the face, down to the waist and covering Popular in 1750s and 1760s, a man’s pigeon-winged the arms, allowing no part of the body to be visible. wig with two stiff horizontal rolls of hair above the ‘aki: United States of America. Hawaii. Hair switch. ears (pigeon wings) and smooth on the top and sides. ákna: Greece. Red dye for the hair. ‘a‘ilepe: United States of America. Hawaii. Ruffles or akoko: Nigeria. Yoruba woman’s one-yard-wide cloth folds around the neck. made in Igbomina Province. ailerons: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Short, akome: Japan. The inner robe of the sokutai costume. floating sleeves. akongo: Tiv. Worn by women, broad strip of openwork : Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. Protec- joined to a narrow strip of cloth. tive forged iron or steel shoulder plate in armor; the akpwem: Tiv. All white cloth worn only by men. forerunner of the epaulet. aksamit: Poland. Velvet. àilleag: Ireland. Jewel. aksamitka: Slovakia. Velvet hat band worn by married men. ‘ainakini: United States of America. Hawaii. blue aksu: Bolivia. Incan woman’s dress. cotton cloth. aksun: India. A fine, painted Chinese silk. aincis: Ireland. Gaelic word for a skin or . akwaba doll: Ghana. Doll worn tied at waist by young āinne: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for finger ring. girls as a sign that the wearer is unmarried. ainyi: Burma. Double-breasted or jacket. al: India. Morindin, a dye, from the roots of Indian airmchrios: Ireland. Gaelic word for a military shoulder mulberry. belt. al hilel: United Arab Emirates. Needle. 6 ala ala: Spain. Brim. Albert : Crinoline (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- alaballee: See alliballi. dom. Worn from 1840 to 1870, side-laced boots with alabaster: White. a fabric top and patent leather toes. They frequently alabere: Nigeria. Adire where the pattern is stitched had mother-of-pearl buttons down the front. with needle and thread. Albert cape: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s alacha: Lightweight Oriental silk or cotton fabric. cape with a seamless back. aladire: Nigeria. Skilled dyer of adire. Albert cloth: Double-sided wool fabric with a different aladzás: Greece. Cotton material. pattern on each side; used for . alajah: See aleejah. Albert collar: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- alaka: India. Curled locks of hair. dom. Man’s separate standing, starched white linen alaménes: Greece. Women with their costume. collar introduced around 1850. It fastened at the back ālamgīrī: India. Decorated fabric. to on the shirt. ālamjarī: India. Decorated fabric. Albert crepe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in : Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early Geor- 1862, a fine, black silk crepe worn for mourning. gian (1700–1750 C.E.). A lightweight silk. Albert driving-cape: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Alampasand: India. Literally “world pleasing,” a hat Kingdom. Introduced in 1860, very loose Chester- style created by Wajid ‘Ali Shah (r. 1837–1857 C.E.), field made without a seam down the center back. the last king of Oudh. It was a cardboard base cov- Albert jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- ered in that rose straight up from the forehead dom. Popular around 1848, a man’s very short, with a muslin or net bag which hung over the back single-breasted, skirted coat without a breast . of the neck. Albert : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United alan dangi: Turkmenistan. Woman’s circular diadem Kingdom. Man’s loose, mid-calf length, fly front worn tilted back on the head. It is worn with the yaluk. overcoat with small shoulder cape, a long back vent, ala-niho: United States of America. Hawaii. Long tattoo and vertical breast . stripe. Albert pot: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– alankara: India. A generic term for jewelry. 1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1844, a ‘alapaka: United States of America. Hawaii. Alpaca. military shako named for Prince Albert. alapine: See alepine. Albert : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United al-aqrāq al-zarrariyya: Arabia. with gilded Kingdom. Introduced in 1841, man’s single-breasted, native to Bijāya. full-skirted coat with wide collar, narrow , and alari: Nigeria and Yorube. Silk fiber dyed deep red hip pockets. woven into strips that are then sewn into wrappers. Albert shoe: Crinoline alas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Wings. (1840–1865 C.E.). alaska: 1. Overshoe. 2. Yarn of cotton and wool. United Kingdom. Alaska sable: Misnomer for skunk fur. Named for Prince alaulau: United States of America. Hawaii. Generic Albert, a man’s - term for clothes. per with a vamp that Albert shoe alb: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). White linen formed a tongue on Dover Publications with fitted sleeves worn by priests as the second vest- the instep. ment in Mass. Albert top : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 1900. alba velvet: See jacquard velvet. United Kingdom. Popular from 1860s to 1890, man’s albagcā: India. worn over the coat. overcoat cut like with three-inch-wide albangala: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) velvet collar, short waist, long , and flap hip from India for export to United Kingdom. pockets. In 1893, it became a double-breasted, very Albanian hat: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. long, close-fitting coat. Popularized by Henri IV, a high-crowned hat deco- Albert watch-chain: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United rated with a feather. Kingdom. Introduced around 1870, a heavy chain Albanian robe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular worn by men that reached across the front of the vest from 1840 to 1870, a flounced garment that had col- from one welted pocket to the other. ored stripes woven into edging. albói: See touca. albatross: Lightweight, soft, wool, plain weave fabric. Alboni: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1853, a rich, Named for the albatross bird because of its downy one-piece that was slightly gathered at the breast. shoulders and had a small with an ornate tassel albe: Holland. Alb. at the point. 2. In 1855, a scarf-like mantilla cut in a alberoce: Morocco. Jewish man’s burnouse of black wool. narrow crescent shape. It had a gathered border alkhaliq 7

and was trimmed with ornamental or braid on Alexandra : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United tulle. 3. In 1856, a woman’s velvet cloak with a border Kingdom. Introduced in 1863, a woman’s day of antique trimmed with looped and tasseled petticoat with a wide plaid border at the hem. fringe. The hood was lined with velvet and trimmed Alexandrine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, a with a bow. woman’s scarf en tablier trimmed with a full puff of albornoz: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. ribbon and deep fringe. Hooded cape that is worn with a marlota. 2. Spain. alezan: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, a dark . reddish brown color. Albuera: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, a square- alfaiate: Portugal. Tailor. fronted silk mantilla with a wide neckline, scalloped alfi: India. A grass green color. hem, and bow at the front of the neck. It was embroi- alfiler: Spain. Pin. dered and trimmed with fringe. alfinete: Portugal. Pin; tie pin. albusado: Spain. Blousing. alforja: Bolivia and Peru. Woven bag. alcah: India. To be striped. alforje: Portugal. . Alcamina: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, a wom- Algerian purse: (20th century). Purse made from Alge- an’s muslin summer scarf with a scalloped edge rian leather; often tooled and embossed with gold. embroidered with polka dots and two volants edged Algerian stripe: Rough, knotted cotton and silk blend in the same way. fabric in alternating stripes on a cream ground. alceste: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1862, algerienne: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, a kind of a woman’s white silk bonnet covered in white crepe poil de chevre. and trimmed with black lace and white feathers. The algerine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in inside of the bonnet was trimmed with lobelia blue 1840, a twilled in green and poppy or blue velvet and black lace. and gold. alchah: India. Corded silk fabric. algibeira: Portugal. Pocket. alcorque: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Cork- algodão: Portugal. Cotton. soled shoe. algodón: Ecuador, Guatemala, and Spain. Cotton. aleejah: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Corded silk alhaya: See joya. fabric from Turkestan. aliança: Portugal. Wedding ring. Alençon lace: France. Floral design on fine net ground; alicante: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, a golden referred to as queen of French handmade needle- brown color. point laces. The original handmade Alencon was a Alice blue: (1930–1949 C.E.). United States of America. fine lace made of linen thread. It was Medium light blue color favored by Alice Roosevelt made in Alencon, France. when she lived in the White House. Alençon point: Two thread lace, forming octagons and Alice mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, a squares. woman’s cloak that was fitted in front like a vest and alepin: 1. United States of America. Turkish-Syrian fab- was loose in the back like a mantle. It was heavily ric imported into the Southwest via Mexico. 2. Spain. embroidered and had heavy twisted fringe. . Alice Maud: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, a alepine: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Silk and wool woman’s heavy carriage mantle pleated onto a or and cotton blend fabric often worn for square . The mantle was trimmed with galloon mourning. and fringe. alesan: Cafe au lait color. alicula: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Traveler’s cloak Alesjo: . Tuareg man’s headcloth. with sleeves and cowl, often red in color. It was worn alessandrino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Violet blue over the tunica. fabric or color. álises: Greece. Rows of used for ornamentation. alexander: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Striped silk alizarin: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). First introduced fabric. in 1831, a purplish red dye made from madder root. alexander : Twill weave alpaca lining fabric. In 1869, a synthetic method for producing dye was Alexandra collar: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, a developed; the first synthetic dye. lady’s collar with a Prince of Wales feather stitched alizarina: Spain. Alizarine; madder. on in colored cotton. aljófar: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Seed . Alexandra jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United aljuba: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Marlota. Kingdom. Introduced in 1863, a woman’s postil- alkhalak: India. A knee-length frock coat worn by the lioned day jacket made with small and collar. army. The sleeves had and small cuffs. alkhaliq: India. A close-fitting coat. 8 alkilla alkilla: Hausa. Black and white checked fabric. almain : Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Men’s very all: Ireland. Gaelic word for white or foreign. loose, paned hose with large pullings-out. allapeen: See alepine. almain rivet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). of light alleja: See aleejah. half armor made with breast and back split. alli churana: Ecuador. Literally “good clothing,” a ge- almayne rivet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Suit of neric term for synthetic clothing. light half armor. alliance: France. Wedding ring. almenadas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Battle- alliballi: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). mented edges. India. Muslin. almerian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in allieballie: See alliballi. 1862, a woman’s heavy black silk shawl edged in six alligator: Tanned hide of alligator used for , hand- rows of ruffles around the outer edge and trimmed bags, luggage, and other accessories. with ruching down the center front. all-in-one: 1. (1920– almete: Spain. A tilting helm. 1930 C.E.). Combi- almilla: Bolivia. Woman’s wool dress. nation brassiere and almizclera: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Muskrat. for larger almoner: See aumoniere. women. 2. (1930– almuce: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance 1939 C.E.). Combi- (1450–1550 C.E.). Fur or fur-lined hood worn in se- nation brassiere and vere weather. corselet made from almuzi: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Italy. Men’s lastex, a two-way hoods that were worn around the head with a wide stretch fabric. It was collar on the shoulders. made without stays. alnage: United Kingdom. Former measurement of cloth, allongé: France. To roughly equal to 45 inches. See also aune; ell. be lengthened, elon- alner: See aumoniere. gated, or stretched. aloe hemp: The agave, a plant which produces fiber alloutienne: France. similar to hemp. Sturdy silk with aloe lace: Delicate lace made from aloe fibers. slight slub used for aloha shirt: (1930–1940 C.E. and after). Brightly printed evening gloves. silk shirt in imitation of a Hawaiian man’s garment. all-in-one See also photospread (). allover: Pattern or It is generally worn outside the trousers. design that is re- alpaca: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). 1. Long hair of Peru- peated over the entire surface of the fabric. vian alpaca, a type of llama. 2. Fine soft wool fabric, all-rounder: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in often with cotton warp. 1854, a man’s stiff shirt collar that completely en- alpaga: France. Alpaca. circled the neck. alpagas: Italy. Alpaca. allucciolati: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Silk velvet with alpago: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1843, shiny loops of silver or gold that rise above the . a strong satin delaine. allura mai-kai: Nigeria. Pin for woman’s headcloth. Alpaka: Germany. Alpaca. alma: Silk twill weave fabric. alpargata: Ecuador, France, Guatemala, Italy, Portu- Alma: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In March 1855, a gal, and Spain. of woven hemp or rope with woman’s velvet cloak with elbow-length yoke and shaped sole and . See also . skirt box-pleated in back and flat in the front. It alpine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1862, a was trimmed with ostrich feathers. 2. In May 1855, young lady’s traveling suit comprised of shirt, jacket, a mantilla with a box-pleated flounce and trimmed and skirt. The skirt was trimmed with two rows of with satin ribbon. 3. In November 1855, a cloak with velvet from the front waist center to the hem and on a quilted lining. The cloak was trimmed with each side of the center seam. The center strip was velvet fringe on the false yoke and sleeves. one inch wide and the outer strips were one-half inch alma brown: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Copper brown. wide. A row of black velvet buttons ran inside the Alma Escharpe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, outer rows of velvet. On the skirt waist were two tabs a shawl with a vandyked flounce. The shawl was trimmed in velvet. The jacket was closed in front, trimmed with checkered galloon. short and cutaway to the hips on the sides; trimmed almain coat: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. in velvet and buttons. The sleeves were wide and Man’s short, snug, jacket with flared skirts and long pleated at the shoulders with two pleats. The full- hanging sleeves. ness at the bottom of the jacket sleeves was contained American vest 9

with velvet edged lozenge shaped tabs. collar with a gap in the center front. It was particu- alpine hat: Man’s soft hat with low crown. larly popular on when finished off with a alpine jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in black ribbon . 1876, a man’s double-breasted jacket with a center amazon corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular back and vertical side pockets. for informal attire in 1840s, a plain buttoned bodice Alsatian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of with a small white collar and cuffs. America. Plain black mantle for mourning, amazon : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Horsewom- trimmed with of . an’s corset with elastic lacings. Alsatian bow: Large, flat bow with a loose , used amazon plume: Long, soft ostrich feather with the end in millinery. curled inward to cover the stem. alta costura: Spain. . amazone: France. . alta moda: Italy. Haute couture. amazones: See pleureuses. altibajo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Figured âmbar: Portugal. Amber. velvet. ambara: See amsuka. altita: Romania. Embroidered part of upper portion of ambaram: See amsuyam. woman’s sleeve. ambari: See qatifah-i-purbi. alto e basso: Velvet with two pile heights. amber: Fossil resin that may be cloudy, opaque, or aluta luxor: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Heavy leather transparent and may be reddish brown, yellow, boots that were softened with alum. honey colored, or even black. amabejhu: Rhodesia. Ndebele man’s everyday garment ambergris: Waxy substance used in the manufacture of consisting of two skins tied around the waist and perfume. hanging down in front and in back. ambo: Spain. Two-piece suit. amadis: 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Snug sleeve ambohai: India. A mango green color. that fastened at the wrist. 2. Directoire and First Em- ‘ameki: United States of America. Hawaii. Amethyst. pire (1790–1815 C.E.). Woman’s long, full sleeve with amelie: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Azure color. puffs at intervals down the arm. amelle: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. A amadis sleeve: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Intro- blue color. duced in 1684 by Mlle le Rochois, actress, a snug amen: Romantic (1840–1865 C.E.). Fine figured lasting. sleeve that continued onto the back of the hand. It American: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- was fashionable again in 1830s and 1850s. dom. Color of mistletoe. amageta: Japan. Rainy weather sandals with high American badger: Rough, long-haired, white fur with a wooden cleats and protective toe covers. black band just below the tip. amalia: Greece. Woman’s national costume of an em- American blade: (20th century). United States of Amer- broidered that shows at the neck of a low- ica. Coat with broad shoulders and with extra full- cut silk dress. It is worn with a fitted, embroidered, ness at upper arm and center back to prevent seam waist-length, velvet jacket. strain. amanqonqo: Rhodesia. Ndebele. Large beads used on a American broadtail: Pelts of South American lamb, woman’s . aged one day to nine months, that are sheared very amant: Greenland. Hood on woman’s jacket. The hood close and processed to resemble broadtail. is large enough to be used to carry a baby. American cloth: British name for American oilcloth. amanyatelo: Rhodesia. Ndebele term for sandals. American green: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United amaranth: Purple color tinged with red. States of America. A green color. See also forester’s amaranthus color: Directoire and First Empire (1790– green. 1815 C.E.). United States of America. Very fashion- American shoulders: (20th century). Characteris- able in 1802, a soft pinkish purple color. tic broad, straight, padded shoulders of American amarelo: Portugal. Yellow color. men’s before World War II. See also epaules amarillo: Spain. Yellow color. Americaines. amaua: Tiv. Entirely black fabric worn by both men and American trousers: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United women. Kingdom. From 1857, men’s trousers with the fabric amautik: Quilted worn by gathered onto a narrow waistband that buckled in the Inuit. the rear. amazon: Wool fabric in satin or American vest: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United twill weave with a raised . Kingdom. Popular from the 1860s on, a man’s single- amazon collar: Crinoline (1840– breasted collarless vest that buttoned high. See also amazon collar 1865 C.E.). Woman’s standing French vest. 10 americana americana: Spain. Jacket. amulet: Object worn as protection against bad luck or amess: See almuce. evil. amethist: Holland. Amethyst. amuleto: Portugal. Amulet. amethyst: Quartz ranging in color from violet to purple. amusse: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). It is commonly used in jewelry. The darker the hue, Small cape with hood worn by nobility and . the more valuable it is. amuva: India. Bright green. amethystus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Amethyst, a Amy Robsart satin: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Intro- gemstone. duced in 1836, a satin fabric with a white ground ameti: See ‘ameki. with white flowers traced in gold thread or plain ametist: Ireland. Gaelic word for amethyst. colored flowers traced in silver thread. ametista: Portugal. Amethyst. amyan ikondo: Tiv. Man’s dark blue cloth with red amhcha: Ireland. Gaelic word for a cravat. checks. amice: Linen strip that is laid hood-like over the head amys: See almuce. and then dropped to the shoulders and tied into posi- an nouveau desire: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). tion around the body. It is the first liturgical Trim with interlacings of ermine or striped gauze. to be put on by priests for Mass. It developed from The name derived from the son hoped for in the Roman neckcloth. pregnancy of Marie Antoinette in 1778. amictorium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Wrapped anabas: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Cheap cotton garment. fabric. amictus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Generic term anacholus: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Undertunic. referring to all draped outer garments. anacu: 1. Peru. Woman’s wrap skirt. 2. Peru. Long, full, amido: Portugal. Starch. cotton tunic. amigaut: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Slit at anadem: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). or the neck of a woman’s . wreath of flowers for head. amincir: France. To make thin; to look slender. anaglyph: Low relief ornament, as a cameo. Amish dress: Characteristic plain dark dress of Chris- anágua: Portugal. Petticoat. tian Mennonites or “Plain People” consisting of gar- anahata: India. Any uncalendered fabric. ments that fasten with hooks and eyes, having no anaku: Ecuador and Guatemala. Inca term for a wom- buttons or other form of decoration. Because of their an’s pleated, wrapped skirt. use of hooks and eyes, the Mennonites were once analabos: Cloak decorated by crosses and worn by referred to as hookers. monks in Eastern Church. amlag: Ireland. Gaelic word for a curl or ringlet. analav: with symbols worn by in Russian ammana: India. A large wound worn by Mus- Church. lims. anamite: 1. Color of string or the color of unbleached amônières sarrasinoises: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). muslin. 2. Natural, unbleached, neutral color. France. Literally “Saracen almsbags,” the term re- ananas: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, a pineapple ferred to bags that hung from the girdle to carry coins color. for the poor. anantu hwinie: Ashanti. worn below the knee. amortir: France. To fade, as a color. anaranjado: Spain. Orange color. amphibole: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, a green anart garbh: Ireland. Gaelic word for coarse linen. gray color. Anasazi stripe twill: United States of America. Self- amphimalla: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Cloth un- patterned twill cloth distinguished by black or shorn on both sides. brown, red, and white weft bands. amphitapa: See amphimalla. Anatolian silk: . Fair quality silk. amplificateur: (1900–1910 C.E.). Anatolian wool: Turkey. Long, medium fine wool used with several heavy in making . frills sewn around the bust. anbijāniyya: Arabia. Simple woolen cloak. ampyz: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Andaluse cape: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Woman’s diadem. Kingdom. Introduced in 1846, a woman’s outdoor amsuka: India. 1. A smooth, shin- silk cape trimmed in volants of crepe lisse. ing veil. 2. A generic term for : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, a wom- clothing. See also vastra. an’s embroidered velvet cloak that was trimmed at amsu-patta: India. Fine silk. the yoke with three strand tassels. The sleeves were amsuyam: India. A generic term cut in reverse scallops. The skirt was box pleated to amplificateur for cloth. the yoke. aniline 11 andalusian: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in length jacket with elbow-length sleeves. 1825, a fine open washing silk with broché pattern. anglaise: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Used from 1840 Andalusian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1856, a on, the term applied to the collar and its fold on a poult de soie mantilla with the back cut in gores. The waistcoat. flounce was pleated in reverse folds. The mantilla angle-fronted coat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United was trimmed with gimp, rosettes, and looped fringe. Kingdom. Popular from 1870 to 1880, a variation of 2. In 1857, a woman’s talma with a deep lace bertha the man’s single-breasted morning coat in which the and rich passementerie. 3. In 1858, a lace mantilla front was cut away to expose the waistcoat beneath. with a deep flounce that ended in scallops. The bottom corners of the coat were cut at obtuse andalusian casaque: Directoire and First Empire (1790– angles rather than curves. 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1809, a Anglesea: Trade name for curve in men’s hat brims. woman’s evening wear tunic that fastened down the angleterre: Small needlepoint loops worked on an edge. center front and sloped away to below the knees in back. Anglo-Greek bodice: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United andrienne: See sack gown. Kingdom. Popular in the 1820s, a woman’s bodice androsame: . Swiss military hat that resem- with wide lapels that were often edged in lace. bles a with a spout-like crease in the center anglo-merino: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 front. In France, the androsmane; in United Kingdom C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced around 1810, a and the United States, the kevenhuller. very fine fabric made from George III’s merino flock. androsman: See androsame. Anglo-Saxon embroidery: Old-style embroidery with androsmane: See androsame. the design outlined in long stitches and couched in : See anlace. metal thread. Aneline shawl: Crinoline angora: Turkey. Twill weave, soft, woolly fabric made (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, a of angora cat, angora rabbit, or angora goat fur. square shawl of silk, crepe, or Angora goat: Wiry, lustrous, strong fur of angora goat; , plain or embroi- usually white. The fibers are four to seven inches in dered. It was trimmed with a length. flounce of lace. Angora rabbit: 1. Very fine, silky hair from specific anello: Italy. Finger ring. breed of rabbit. It is very lightweight and warm. 2. anga: India. Ankle-length dress Soft, wooly fur of angora rabbit. The fur is clipped or androsame with tight-fitting long sleeves. plucked from the animal. angada: India. Armlet. Angoulême bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. angadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for a shirt gusset. Ladies’ bonnet with a high crown, commonly worn angarkha: India. A tunic with a side fastening. tied at the side. angarkhi: India. Garment that closes with a tie on the Angoulême hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 right shoulder. C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of angavastra: See pachedī. America. Popular from 1800 to 1870, a narrow angel overskirt: (1890–1899 C.E.). United Kingdom. brimmed hat with a high fluted crown. It was named Woman’s day short upper skirt made with two long for the daughter of Marie Antoinette. points, one on each side. Angouleme : Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United angel skin: Waxy, smooth, States of America. New spencer style introduced in dull finish applied to satin. 1815. angel sleeve: Bustle (1865– Angoulême tippet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– 1890 C.E.). United King- 1815 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States. dom. Introduced in 1889, Popular from 1800 to 1870, a satin tippet trimmed in the name applied to long swansdown. square panels on some man- angrakhâs: India. Jewish man’s turban. tles that reached from the angulia: India. Finger ring. shoulder to the ground. anguliya: India. Finger ring. angelus cap: Type of peas- anguliyaka: India. Finger ring. ant handkerchief cap. anguri: India. Light canary yellow. anger: Tiv. Man’s cloth of angusti clavi: See clavi. alternating strips of blue angūthī: India. Small finger ring with precious stones. and white. anhaho: India. A variegated or patterned . angel sleeve angi: India. A blouse. añil: Spain. Indigo. Dover Publications angia: India. Light, waist- aniline: Dye derived from aniline or any organic dye. 12 anima anima: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Armor made with antique finish: Weathered or satin finish on leather cre- back and breast of horizontal lames. ated through the application of wax and oil. anime: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. A coat of antique lace: Darned . plates that were joined together with sliding rivets. : Heavy, dull-faced satin. anjonp’in: Korea. Safety pin. antique taffeta: Taffeta made with slubbed yarn. ankanjo: Madagascar. A -style dress. Antoinette: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, a man- ankh: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Decorative symbol of tle with a fitted body. The mantle was trimmed with life in the shape of a cross. wide ribbon and had a double pelerine. ankle-breeches: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Collo- Antwerp lace: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early quialism for Spanish breeches or Spanish hose. Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Rare bobbin lace with ankle-jacks: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- basket motif. dom. Worn in 1840s, men’s short boots that were fit- Antwerp pot lace: Rare bobbin lace with a pot of flow- ted to the ankles and closed with five eyelets on the ers in the design. outside of the foot. anuenue: United States of America. Hawaii. Scallop- anlace: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Short sword or like design on tapa. . ānulus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Finger ring. anlet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Ring in mailed anyam: Borneo. To weave. armor. ao: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Han woman’s Anne Boleyn mob: Directoire and First Empire (1790– semi-formal, elaborately decorated, upper garment 1815 C.E.). United States of America. Name for fash- of silk with a curved front with a toggle clo- ionable dress cap in 1807. sure. The informal ao had narrower, plainer borders annelet: See anlet. and was made of cotton. Annette Kellerman: (1920–1930 C.E.). United States of áo: Vietnam. Generic term for clothes. America. Mass produced by Jantzen in 1920, a wom- áo bà-ba: Vietnam. Loose blouse. an’s one-piece sleeveless that ended about áo baðò-suy: Vietnam. Pardessus. two inches above the knee. It was named for the fa- áo bành-tô: Vietnam. Suit coat; jacket. mous swimmer who wore this style as early as 1909. áo bò: Vietnam. Denim jacket. annulet: See anlet. áo bông: Vietnam. Quilted dress. anorak: Hip-length, hooded jacket for Arctic wear. áo cam-bào: Vietnam. Imperial robe made from . anserine: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Silk and áo cánh: Vietnam. Blouse. wool blend fabric first introduced for the funeral of áo cà-sa: Vietnam. Monk’s robe. Prince George I of Denmark in 1708. áo choàng: Vietnam. Cloak; mantle. antaravasaka: India. Robe. áo côc: Vietnam. Blouse; shirt. antariya: India. Woman’s lower garment. áo cut: Vietnam. Blouse; shirt. antelope: Soft, velvety leather from the flesh side of the áo da: Vietnam. Woolen dress. skin of the antelope gazelle of Africa. It is usually áo dài: Vietnam. Vietnamese dress. brownish or silver tan in color. áo ðai-trào: Vietnam. Formal dress. anteojos: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Eye- áo da-le: Vietnam. . . áo ðan: Vietnam. . anteri: 1. Balkans. Short white undervest worn by both áo dãu: Vietnam. Soldier’s uniform. genders. 2. Turkey. Long robe. áo ði mura: Vietnam. Raincoat. anterí: See kaváði. áo ðuôi-tôm: Vietnam. . anterne: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Wool and silk áo giáp: Vietnam. Armor. or mohair and cotton blend fabric. áo gi-lê: Vietnam. Waistcoat. antery: Turkey. Man’s vest that often reaches to below áo kép: Vietnam. Lined dress. the knee. áo lan: Vietnam. Diving suit. anthrax: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Garnet, a gem- áo lanh lót vài bông: Vietnam. Parka. stone. áo len: Vietnam. Sweater. antigropolis: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- áo lông: Vietnam. Fur coat. dom. Popular in the 1850s, a man’s high leather gai- áo lót: Vietnam. . ter that fastened at the side. áo lót mình: Vietnam. . antique bodice: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United áo mão: Vietnam. Mandarin’s bonnet and gown. Kingdom. Popular from 1836 to 1849, a woman’s áo muta: Vietnam. Raincoat. long-waisted bodice that ended in a long, sharp point áo ngù: Vietnam. Bathrobe. in the center front. áo nit: Vietnam. Undershirt. Aramis mantelet 13

áo njt: Vietnam. Undershirt. apple green: Vivid yellow green color. áo tam: Vietnam. Swimsuit. applebloom: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fabric simi- áo thày-tu: Vietnam. Priest’s robe. lar in shade to apple blossoms. áo thung: Vietnam. Academic gown. appleblue: See applebloom. áo toi: Vietnam. Raincoat; . applicazione: Italy. Tuck embroidery. áo vét-tông: Vietnam. Suit coat; jacket. applique: a piecing process using small cutouts of fab- áo xiêm: Vietnam. Clothes. ric sewn onto a background fabric. áo xõng: Vietnam. Clothes. aprapadina: India. 1. Woman’s lower garment. 2. A aodach solus: Ireland. Gaelic word for white or light long robe that reaches to the toes. colored clothing. apredyti: See apvilkti. aodach tiusail: Ireland. Gaelic word for comfortable aprenti: See apvilkti. clothing. apricot: Pale tint of orange. aoerfóni: Greece. The overlapping opening of a skirt. : Length of fabric hemmed at the bottom edge, aoidai: Vietnam. A woman’s long fitted sheath with gathered or pleated to a waistband, and tied in the side slits to the waist. It is worn over long trousers. center back. It may or may not have a bib. It is worn ao-iro: Japan. Yellowish green color. for both utilitarian and decorative purposes. aozuri: Japan. A fabric rubbed with a blue dye. apron front: Boot or a shoe with oval-shaped apron, áp long-bào: Vietnam. Imperial robe with a dragon similar to that on a . design. apron tunic: (20th century). Tunic with an overskirt that ‘apa memea: Samoa. Brass or copper. is cut away in back, giving the illusion of an apron. ‘apamemea: Samoa. Copper. aprūn: Ireland. Apron. aparan: Ireland. Gaelic word for an apron. apruoce: Lithuania. . aparsaig: Ireland. Gaelic word for a knapsack. apsiustas: Lithuania. Cloak. apavartaka: India. Pearl necklace with alternating gold ápvilkti: Lithuania. To clothe or to dress. Also called globules. apredyti and aprenti. apch’ima: Korea. Apron. ‘aqal: Palestine. Man’s headrope, most commonly black, apg’erbt: Lithuania. To clothe or dress. sometimes white. It is made of wool, , or apikaklé: Lithuania. Collar. cotton. See also agal. apkakle: Lithuania. Collar. ‘aqal mqassab: Palestine. Man’s ornamental headropes. aplatir: France. To flatten. ‘aqd anbar: See qladet ‘anbar. apo Ifa: Yoruba diviner’s beaded bag. ‘aqd wazari: Palestine. Necklace of flat figure-eight apo kula: United States of America. Hawaii. Gold bracelet. pieces of silver. apo lima: United States of America. Hawaii. Bracelet. aqrāq: Arabia. Cork-soled sandals. apo papale: United States of America. Hawaii. Hatband. aquamarine: Semi-precious stone of light blue to blue apodesme: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Wool, linen, or green color. chamois leather band worn as a brassiere. aquatic shirt: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- Apollo: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Bright gold color. dom. Popular from 1830 on, a man’s cotton striped or Apollo corset: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 checked shirt decorated with sporting designs. C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn by either gender, a aquerne: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fur of squirrel. whalebone corset. ara: See tirchha. Apollo knot: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- arabesque: Ornamental geometrically balanced pattern. dom. Popular from 1824 to 1838, plait of false hair Arabian embroidery: Elaborate Oriental embroidery. looped and wired on top of a woman’s coiffure. Aragonese bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United apotygma: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Overfold on . Kingdom. Introduced in 1834, a silk bonnet with an apparel: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Strips or square arched front brim and pyramid-shaped crown. of embroidery. araignée méditant un crime: Restoration (1660–1700 appas postiches: Directoire and First Empire (1790– C.E.). France. Shade of gray. 1815 C.E.). France. False breasts. arak-chin: India. Worn by the Brahmins of Sind, a white Appenzell embroidery: Switzerland. Very fine drawn or colored cotton cap much like a . work on white linen or lawn. This embroidery origi- aralac: Casein base fiber similar to wool. nated in the Swiss canton of Appenzell. araluck: India. Waistcoat with elbow-length sleeves. appicciolato: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Dam- Aramis mantelet: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In ask silk. 1850s, a mantelet with loose hanging sleeves. The appilion: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew word for mantelet was cut round in back and came to a . point in front. 14 Aran Isle sweater

Aran Isle sweater: V or round necked sweater knit in argile: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, the color of pot- traditional Irish design. ter’s clay. araneous: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Embroidery. argolas: Portugal. Earrings. aranzel: See fustao. argūbō: Ethiopia. Kafa large white cloak. arápis: Greece. Apron ornament. : Multicolored diamond pattern. Argyll is the name ‘araqiyeh: Palestine. Married woman’s skull-cap. of a Scottish clan after which this pattern is named. aratae: Japan. A rough cloth. arhi: See aar. aratóbocskor: Hungary. Moccasins made from worn ari: India. A small awl with a notch used to embroider out boots. a . ‘arayjeh: See menajel. Ariadne sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, a arba kanphoth: Hebrew. Rectangle of fabric, usually small bishop sleeve wool, about three feet long and one foot wide. It with a pointed cap. has an opening for the head and tassels at all four Aridex: DuPont’s name corners. for the water repel- arcari: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In late 1830s, a wom- lent wax emulsion an’s half cap worn back on the head. It was often tied used on cotton, rayon, Ariadne sleeve under the chin with a ribbon. The half cap was made and wool fabrics. of lace, ribbon, and rosebuds. Arimatsu : Japan. A coarse tie-dye done on cot- arched collar: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 ton in Arimatsu. C.E.). Introduced in 1814, a high collar that was ario: Samoa. Silver. curved to fit the throat and turned slightly under arisard: . Woman’s mantle or plaid that reached beneath the chin. from head to feet and was worn draped at the waist. arc’henad: See botez. arkhalukh: . Woman’s outer garment worn arc’henad-kambr: France. for . belted at the waist. The sleeves were trimmed with Arctic: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, a velvet silver buttons or chain links. talma covered with netting that ended in tassels. The armadura: Portugal. Armor. talma was fringed on the lower edge. armadura del busto: See corazza. arctic hare: . Long-haired rabbit with blue fur armatura: Italy. Armor. with white, tan, or bluish gray guard hairs. armazine: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Strong arctics: (20th century). Rubberized overshoes. corded silk fabric used for women’s and ardhaguchchha: India. Necklace of 24 strings of pearls. men’s . ardhamanavaka: India. Necklace of 10 strings of pearls. armbaand: Denmark. Bracelet. ardhi laj: India. Literally “half shame,” a veil worn over armband: Holland and Sweden. Bracelet. the face and down to the waist. It is worn in the pres- Armband: Germany. Bracelet. ence of the senior relative in the home. Ärmel: Germany. Sleeve. ardhoruka: India. Upper body garment; long coat. Ärmelaufschlag: Germany. Cuffs. Ardil: Trade name for protein fiber made from peanuts. Armenian cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United ardilla: Spain. Squirrel. Kingdom. Fashionable in 1850s and 1860s, a man’s ardilla gris: Spain. Petit-gris. overcoat cut in one piece except for the velvet collar. ardilla parda: Spain. Imitation sable. Armenian lace: A fine, needle-made, knotted hand- ardoise: France. Slate color. made edging lace. arfanítica: Greece. Chemise. Armenian mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular argaman: Hebrew. Red purple. 1847–1850, a woman’s cloak with lace or gimp trim. argent: France. Silver. Armenian rat: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Ermine. Argentan lace: France. Edging, insertion, or band of Armenian : Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced lace. It was originally a French needlepoint lace made in 1817, a small tulle and satin turban trimmed with of fine linen thread. feathers and spangled with argentine: Silvery substance made from fish scales and silver. used to make fake pearls. armes à l’épreuve: Renaissance Argentine cloth: Glazed tarlatan or open weave cheese- (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Pis- cloth. tol-proof armor. argênteo: Portugal. Silvery. armet: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 argentería: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Silver C.E.). Small iron or steel hel- gilt. met with movable visor in arghwani: India. A deep red color. front and a brim in back. 2. armet asayib 15

Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Round helmet worn by arpillera: Spain. Burlap. horsemen in the tiltyard. arqalix: . Woman’s short, tight jacket. armil: See armilla. arracadas: Mexico. Crescent-shaped earrings. armilausa: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Short cloak or Arragon: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, a wom- cape worn over armor. an’s checked, two-thirds circle pardessus with a armilla: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). . flounce and a bias cut hood. The hood was trimmed armillae: See brachiāle. with three large tassels. arming bolster: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Padding Arragonese: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1854, a worn at the waist under armor. yoked velvet cloak. The skirt was box-pleated in arming : Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Padded front. The cloak was embroidered and had a narrow leather garment worn under armor. collar. 2. In February 1860, a black silk pardessus arming points: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Point- with unusual bagged sleeves, bertha trim, and cro- tipped strong pieces of twine that held mail gussets cheted fringe. in place beneath the armpits, in the elbows, and in arras: France. , originally designed in Arras, the knees. France. arming-bonett: Renaissance (1450– Arras lace: France. Bobbin lace originating in Arras. 1550 C.E.). Padded cap worn under Arrasene embroidery: Embroidery done with chenille the helmet. cord creating a velvet appearance. arming-hose: Renaissance (1450– arrêter: France. To fasten. 1550 C.E.). Long hose worn under arricciatura: Italy. 1. Trim of lace and ribbons fastened in leg armor. small folds around a handkerchief hem. 2. Curliness. arminho: Portugal. Ermine. arrondir: France. To round; to shape into a circle. armiño: Spain. Ermine. arrowhead: Embroidered triangle at the ends of seams arming-bonett armoire: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In- on tailored garments. troduced in 1880, a very thick corded silk. arroxeado: Portugal. Purplish. armoisin: France. Silk taffeta fabric used for linings. arruivado: Portugal. Reddish, especially pertaining to armozeau: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in hair. 1820s, a silk similar to lute string but not as thick. arsi: India. A thumb ring set with a mirror. armozeen: See armazine. artificial silk: (1910–1920 C.E.). United States of Amer- armozine: See armazine. ica. In 1910, American Viscose Company began Armspange: See Armband. commercial development of a fabric similar to pure armure: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fabric with silk; produced from wood pulp, corn protein, and a woven pattern resembling chain link armor. 2. chemical compounds. It was named rayon. Rayon Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1850, a rich first appeared in garments in a 1915 line by Gabrielle silk and wool fabric with an almost invisible pattern Chanel. resembling chain or triangles. 3. Stiff, rich fabric of artificial wool: (1920–1929 C.E.). Introduced in United silk, cotton, rayon, wool, or blends. It is patterned in States of America in 1926, short lengths of rayon - small designs to suggest chain armor. ments, crimped, spun and woven or knitted. armure cannelée: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. : Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular with Fluted armor. both genders, a long coat topped with three or armure satinee: Silk fabric with fine twill armure face four short . It was named for Count of Artois, and satin back. of Louis XVI (later of France). It armure-laine: Heavy corded or ribbed fabric with silk became fashionable again from 1824 to 1830. warp and wool weft. artois buckle: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United armurette: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1874, Kingdom. Fashionable from 1775 to 1788, a man’s a very soft, silky mohair. very large . army green: (1950–1960 C.E.). United States of America. as: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Prince’s lock; the plait Introduced in 1954, a new color for . worn by a prince down one side of the head. Arnel: Trademark name for synthetic fabric made from asagi: Japan. Light blue color. cellulose triacetate. asanoha: Japan. An allover hemp leaf design. arokah: India. Brilliants. asargado: Spain. Twill. aronui: New Zealand. Maori. A fine cloak of the best asaweri: Palestine. Cotton and silk fabric. quality worn only by the leading chiefs. The asawir ‘iradh: Palestine. Wide silver bracelets. body of the cloak is made of unbleached flax and the asayib: United Arab Emirates. used to hold a borders were of black, white, and red flax. burga in place. 16 asbeh ruwaysiyeh

asbeh ruwaysiyeh: Palestine. . astrakhan: Made in Astrakan, Russia, a Asbestall: Trade name for fabric made of asbestos and with loops or curls on face. The pile is mohair or nylon . wool and the ground is wool or cotton. asbestos: Known to cause cancer, a fireproof fabric of Asturian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, a wom- long, straight fibers. an’s cloth or velvet cloak trimmed with a network of ascanta: Ecuador and Guatemala. Man’s felt passementerie and mini-tassels. The cloak also had a with a broad brim. beaded fringe. : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Man’s scarf with aswashka: Ecuador and Guatemala. Woven textile. horizontal ends worn tied in a knot and then crossed ‘at’a’: Navajo. Feather. diagonally, usually held in place with stick pin. ata: 1. Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Band with gold or ashantee: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, a new gray silver thread sewn on neck edge of tallith. 2. India. color. The tucking of the sari. ashasana: India. Decorative border or fabric. atataakoro: Ghana. White cloth with indigo blue stripes. ashida: Japan. High to wear in the rain. atef: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Double crown of Egypt ashifuki: Japan. Foot . consisting of both the red wicker crown of Lower ashigappa: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally Egypt and the white felt crown of Upper Egypt. “leg covering,” pants. ati: See ata. ashi-maki: Japan. The cords that tie some trousers at atigi: Caribou fur parka worn by Inuit with the fur the ankles. toward the inside. The fur around the hood is wol- ashinaka-zori: Japan. Straw sandals. verine. ashira: Tiv. Man’s cloth of a white strip edged in blue. atka: India. Man’s long, close-fitting cloak made in a ashish: Tiv. Red openwork cloth worn only by women. bright color and embroidered with gold thread. ashrafī: Arabia. Cotton textile. Atlas: Germany. Satin. asi-ebi: Nigeria. Literally “family cloth,” aso-oke worn atlas: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian by all members of a family. (1750–1790 C.E.). India. Smooth silk fabric. 2. Turkey. asimojórdano: Greece. Neck ornament. Lightweight silk satin. ásimozúnaro: Greece. Belt of chains from which hangs atlas khasu: India. A generic term for satin. the . atlas silk: India. Silk from Attacus atlas moth. See also asinan: See okana. ailanthus silk. asisa: Ibo. Blue and white cloth with openwork. atole: Guatemala. . asli: India. A honey color. atrocelado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. asmani: India. Sky blue. Trimmed. asmar: Palestine. Dark blue color. atshi: India. Deep red. asmodée: (1890–1899 C.E.). Black etamine striped with atsuita: Japan. Stiff brocaded silk. one-inch old rose silk bands. attaby: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Silk fabric. See aso-alake: Nigeria. of ikat. also tabby. aso-oke: Nigeria. Yoruba handwoven cloth. attāmitō: Ethiopia. Men’s earrings; women’s finger asooch: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Term meaning rings. that garment was worn diagonally across the body attiffet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Woman’s head- instead of in the normal position. dress that created an arc across the top of the head asparsanumeya: India. Thin, transparent fabric. that was surmounted by a veil that fell to a point on áspri: Greece. Festival and bridal costumes. the brow. asprocéndi: Greece. Embroidery made with white attigra: Nigeria. A man’s elaborate, heavy velvet gown thread. embroidered with metallic threads. It is worn for assam cotton: East India. Rough, short staple cotton. ceremonial and special occasions. assili cotton: Egypt. Cotton with a golden yellow, attila: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Hungary. Tunic. strong 1-1/4-inch staple. attush: Japan. Worn by the Ainu, long made from : Form of cross-stitch. the inner bark of the elm tree. astar: India. A generic term for any kind of silk lining. au dekls: Lithuania. Linen cloth. astracán: Spain. Persian lamb fur. au globe fixé: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Astracan de laine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, a In 1778, a woman’s hairstyle. new rough textured trim. aubergine: (1890–1899 C.E.). Rich reddish brown color. astrakan: 1. Hide of the karakul lamb from . auburn: Reddish brown color. See also Persian lamb. 2. France and Italy. Astrakhan fur. aubusson stitch: Vertical canvas stitch. Astrakan: Germany. Astrakan fur. audeklas: Lithuania. Linen. azul 17

Audobon plumage law: (1900–1910 C.E.). Law passed to ‘ava: Samoa. Beard. prevent the extinction of various native birds and to ava cotton: India. Cotton. prevent the importation or sales of various feathers. ‘avaaluga: Samoa. Moustache. Aufschlag: Germany. . avaghataka: India. Pearl necklace. Augsburg checks: Germany. Small fab- avagraha: India. Woman’s lower garment worn to cover ric made for export. genitalia. Augusta: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 avagunthana: India. Worn by women, a long fabric C.E.). . piece worn over the head and sometimes over a part Augusta cloth: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of the face. of America. Fabric made in Augusta, Georgia. avampiés: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. . ‘auli: Samoa. Clothes iron. avasakthika: See paryastika. aulmoniere: See aumoniere. avaska: Peru. Naturally colored llama wool or cotton aumoniere: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Em- fabric. broidered silk pouch that hung from the girdle or Ave Maria lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. belt. Variation on Val lace made in Dieppe, France. aumuce: See almuce. avental: Portugal. Apron. aune: France. Old fabric measure of 45 inches. aventurine: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Murrey color. aupakaksiki: India. A 27-inch square of cloth worn tied avignon: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Silk taffeta for coat over the chest and anchored on the left shoulder. linings. aupakasaki: India. Woman’s bodice worn tied on the avika: India. Sheep’s wool or fabric from sheep’s wool. left shoulder. aviver: France. To brighten; to polish. Âu-phuc: Vietnam. Western clothes. avocado: Greenish yellow color. aurifère: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Fawn color avondcape: See sortie. with a tint of gold. avonet: Persia. Rug wool from three-year-old sheep. aurifrisium: See opus phrygium. avqueton: See hoqueton. aurna: India. Woolen cloth. avve: . Waistband. ‘auro: Samoa. Gold. awakipa: See ribete. aurora: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Shell pink. awana: Ecuador and Guatemala. Backstrap . aurum filatum cyprense: Byzantine and Romanesque awarua: Australia. Maori dogskin cloak with alternat- (400–1200 C.E.). Gold thread. ing strips of black and white. aurum tractitium: Byzantine and Romanesque (400– awase-bodokko: Japan. A simple lined garment. 1200 C.E.). Gold thread made from gold wire. awasqa: Inca. A rough cloth for domestic use. Ausstattung: Germany. Trousseau. awayu: Bolivia and Peru. Woman’s shawl. Australian wool: Australia. Fine quality wool from awning: Heavy, brightly colored, sometimes striped Spanish merino sheep. canvas. Austrian belt: Leather-clad metal belt worn around the awondwa: Ghana. The color yellow. waist. The belt features screws that, when tightened, aya: Japan. A patterned silk with a simple geometric render the waist a perfect circle. motif on a twilled ground. Austrian knot: Heavy, black silk braid ornament appli- Aylesham: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). United King- qued on military uniforms in loops. dom. Fine linen made in Aylesham, Norfolk. Austrian shade cloth: . Cotton shade fabric with aymilla: Bolivia. Dress with a very full skirt that reaches wide stripes of crinkled surface. to below the knees. The lower edge is trimmed with Austurian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, a wom- machine embroidery. an’s circular cloth wrap with a bertha. The wrap was Ayrshire: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) gathered on a string at the waist and trimmed with to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Scotland. Introduced in black velvet on a taffeta ground. Scotland c1814, a dainty white embroidery on linen Author: (1950–1960 C.E.). Man’s hairstyle. and cotton. It became a major home industry until the automobile veil: Large protective veil worn by women middle of the 19th century. in early days of cars. Ayrshire work: See Ayrshire. âu-trang: Vietnam. Western clothes. azafran: Spain. color. autruche: France. Ostrich. Azetat: Germany. Acetate. autui: Maori. Four-inch cloak pins of whalebone or azr: See izar. boars’ tusks. azufar: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Bleaching autumn tea brown: China. Yuan dynasty. Shade of (of the hair). brown. azul: Ecuador, Guatemala, and Portugal. Blue. 18 azulado azulado: Portugal. Azure. azure: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. azulmarinho: Portugal. Navy blue. Sky blue color. azur: 1. Hungary. Black or white felt with azuren: See hemelsblauw. full-length broad lapels and enormous sleeves. It was azurline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, a new generally worn like a cloak, without the arms in the bright blue color. sleeves. It was elaborately decorated with applique. azuur: See hemelsblauw. 2. France. Azure. azzurro: Italy. Azure. B

baalto: See zibun. baby French heel: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United babador: Portugal. Bib. Kingdom. Popular from 1850 to 1867, small, low heel babadu: Ashanti. Weft designed silk cloth. with an inward curve. babag: Ireland. Gaelic word for tassel or fringe. baby lace: See . baban: Ireland. Gaelic word for bobbin. baby Louis heel: (1900–1910 C.E.). Low heel with an babero: Spain. Bib; . inward curve. babet bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- baby pink: Pastel pink. dom. Introduced in 1839, woman’s small tulle evening baby pins: Tiny gold bar pins, commonly worn in bonnet that sat at the back of the head and covered the pairs. ears. It was trimmed with lace and small roses. baby ribbon: Extremely narrow white or pastel ribbon. babet cap: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular from baby Stuart cap: 1. Charles I and the Commonwealth 1836 to the 1840s, woman’s muslin morning cap with (1625–1660 C.E.) to present. Woman’s small cap simi- small , trimmed with ribbon. lar to baby’s bonnet. 2. Child’s decoratively edged babhaid: Ireland. Gaelic word for tassel. lace cap. babiche: Algonquin. Cord or of rawhide or sinew. Babylonian work: Babylonia. Embroidery worn on babouche: Muslim. Old style heel-less slipper, often of linen or wool with a rosette design. embroidered leather. babylonica stromata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). baboutcha: See kheaya el kebira. depicting from Oriental lore and babushka: (1930–1940 C.E.). United States of America. mythology. Brightly printed scarf worn around the head and babysokje: Holland. Baby bootee. tied under the chin. Named for the Russian word for baccello di piselli: Italy. Peascod. grandmother. bacchante: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, red purple. baby blue: Pastel blue. bacchetta: Italy. Walking stick. baby bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. bachelik: See bachlik. Woman’s square-necked day bodice with vertical bachelor shoes: See brogans. pleats down the center front and a large . In bachlik: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Short hooded cape 1897, the neck had a threaded ribbon to draw it and ending in a large tassel. was worn with a wide side sash. bach-ngoc: Vietnam. White baby cap: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- jade. dom. Popular woman’s . bacinet: See . baby delaine: See delaine wool. backlik: See bachlik. baby doll pajama: (1950–1960 C.E. to present). United backsters: United Kingdom. States of America. Woman’s popular sleepwear set Dyke makers’ leather consisting of a loose sleeveless or short-sleeved, boots on wood platforms. flared top and very short bloomers. : Horizontal stitches baby doll shoe: Shoe with short, wide, round toe. moving right to left. back- shoe baby : Plain weave, lightweight cotton fabric back-strap shoe: Sling pump. See also photospread used to make children’s underwear and clothes. baço: Portugal. Dark brown. (Foot and Legwear).

19 20 badami

badami: India. An almond color. the ponytail. The bag was usually tied with strings to badan: India. Short, double-breasted, narrow-sleeved a black bow at the nape of the neck. jacket. bagalbandi: India. A short fitted coat with a double flap in badana: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Sheep- front. It has tapering full sleeves. See also mirjai. skin. bagazia: See muszuj. badara: India. A variety of silk. bagdad: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1. Introduced in 1872, Baden hemp: Excellent quality hemp. striped Eastern silk. 2. Introduced in 1886, pinkish badger: Fur of the badger; a coarse, durable, black hair brick dust color. mixed with white, gray, or tan. bagdad wool: Iran. Black or brownish wool. badger whiskers: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United bagging: Coarse fabric of , cotton used for making bags. States of America. Fashion prescribed for the U.S. bagging shoe: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Man’s Navy in 1841 by honorable George E. Badger, Sec- loose shoe for country wear. retary of the Navy. Consisted of whiskers no lower bagh: 1. India. A Punjabi woman’s shawl worn to wed- than one inch below the ear and even with the mouth. dings. It is embroidered in silk floss. 2. Pakistan. badhani: India. From 300 B.C.E. to 700 C.E., a tie-dyed Woman’s heavily embroidered head shawl worn for cloth. ceremonial occasions. badine: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Wom- bagheera: Fine, uncut pile velvet that is rough and re- an’s fashionable version of shepherdess’s crook. sistant to crushing. badiyān: See badan. bagnolette: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Woman’s bādlā: See kāmdānī. small hooded cap that fastened at the neck and gath- badshah pasand: India. Lavender color. ered around the feet. badstof: Holland. Terry cloth. bagpipe sleeve: See bellows sleeve. baende: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). bags: See unmentionables. United Kingdom. Band of metal or gold-embroidered bague: France. Finger ring. fabric. Possibly for the head. baguette: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). of mail. baeta: Portugal. . bag-waistcoat: See bag plastron. bafota: Madagascar. Plain white cotton cloth. bahia sheeting: Brazil. Cotton fabric. bafota malandy: Madagascar. New white cotton cloth. bahirivasani: India. Woman’s ankle-length sari-like baft: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Coarse cotton fabric garment worn belted. in natural or red and blue. bahu: India. An armlet. bafta: 1. India. A kind of calico, made especially at Baroch. bahut: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Masquerade 2. India. Silk fabric. 3. Kenya. Glazed bleached calico. dress or domino. bag bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1883, woman’s bai na yi: China. Ming dynasty. Richly patched shui day blouse with pouch front. tian yi. bag bonnet: Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.). From 1800 to bài ngá: Vietnam. Ivory badge of office. 1810, woman’s day bonnet with a loosely gathered bai shou yi: China. Type of burial dress. crown. bai tong: China. White copper alloy popular with the bag cap: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Man’s turban- Han in the Qing dynasty (1644–1700 C.E.). like cap with a fur band and an ornament. baiberek: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Russia. Silk fabric. bag Holland: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Fine quality báibù: China. Plain white fabric. linen. baigneuse: Late Georgian (1750– bag plastron: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. 1790 C.E.). Popular 1775–1790, Introduced in 1884, plastron for a day bodice that large, tucked cap worn sagged in the front, forming a bag. while bathing. bag sheeting: Closely woven even weave cotton fabric bainbergs: Early Gothic (1200–1350 used for salt and sugar bags. C.E.). Shin guard in a suit of armor. bag wig: Early Georgian (1700–1750 bàin-dearg: Ireland. Flesh colored. C.E.). Worn early in the period for bainin: Ireland. Handwoven woolen and fashionable on fabric. baigneuse formal occasions with the younger bairam: See beiramee. set after 1730 C.E., man’s wig with bairami: India. A high-quality muslin. a ponytail at the back and the front bairēad: Ireland. 1. . 2. See caipīn. hair brushed into a foretop which báisè: China. 1. White color. 2. See baize. often included the man’s natural baiseuse: France. Patch worn at the corner of the bag wig hair. A bag, usually black, covered mouth; the “kiss” patch. ballibuntl 21 baishan: China. Man’s sleeveless coat worn as everyday balaq: Turkmenistan. Woman’s trousers that taper to dress. the ankle. Upper part is made of plain fabric and legs baisser: France. To lower. of an embroidered fabric. baiya: Timbuktu. Gold spiral nose ring. balayeuse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). on the inside baize: 1. China. Under the Zhengde emperor (r. 1505– hem of woman’s skirt to protect it from the ground. 1521 C.E.), sixth and seventh rank of embroidery on a balbriggan: Ireland. Unbleached cotton fabric with gown; animal with a two-horned dragon’s head and a fleecy back. Popular for men’s winter undergar- a scaly lion’s body. Also called baise. 2. Renaissance ments, called balbriggans. (1450–1550 C.E.). Thick woolen fabric. 3. Thin . baldachin: Rich, embroidered or brocaded silk fabric baizi: India. Light indigo color. woven with silk or gold threads. bajera: See enagua. baldekin: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Silk fabric like baju: 1. . Short, loose, short-sleeved white cot- brocade woven with gold thread. ton jacket. 2. . Shirt and combination baldrés: See badana. making the traditional dress. 3. India. An armlet for baldric: See baldrick. the upper arm. 4. Indonesia. Woman’s short jacket baldrick: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Band of fabric, made from single piece of fabric. 5. Borneo. Coat. ribbon, or leather used to hold the sword; later worn baju bodo: Celebes. A blouse. for decorative purposes. : Indonesia. Full upper garment. baleen: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Tough substance baju panjang: Indonesia. A long sleeved garment worn in upper jaw of a whale. Used for armor and later for over the kain or the sarong. stays under the name whalebone. baka: India. A fop. balein: Holland. Baleen. bakar: Bosnia. Copper. baleinage: France. Boning. Bakelite: (1900–1910 C.E.). Plastic patented by Leo baleine: 1. See baleen. 2. France. To bone. Baekeland in 1907. Used to create dress accessories balerino: See balayeuse. like buttons, , etc. balernos: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, soft, silky bakhrama: India. Crested turban. mohair fabric. bakkebaarden: Holland. Side whiskers. balesses: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- bakku: Sikkim. Long-sleeved coat that fastens at neck dom. Rose pink spinel. and on one side. balg: Ireland. Gaelic word for a leather bag. bakou: See baku. balga: Timbuktu. Slipper. baku: Ceylon. Fine, lightweight straw. balgan: Ireland. Gaelic word for wallet or satchel. bakwala: Nigeria. Round cap. balg-bannaig: Ireland. Gaelic word for bannock bag. bal: Woman’s low-heeled ankle boot worn for bicy- balg-thional: Ireland. Gaelic word for wallet. cling. : India. A ring-type earring with a pearl strung on it. bála: Greece. Forehead. balibuntal: See ballibuntl. balaba: India. Persian cape. balílà: China. green. bālābandī: India. Short-waisted jacket. baline: 1. Rough wool or cotton fabric. 2. Jute or hemp. : (1910s to present). Heavy wool helmet-like Balkan blouse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s long- crocheted or knitted hat. First worn in waisted bodice cut full at the bottom edge with a by soldiers and derives its name from the Balaclava belt at the hips. Long full sleeves that gathered onto coast of Russia. . Made from linen, lawn, or . Often balagnie cloak: Charles I and the Commonwealth colorfully cross-stitched. (1625–1660 C.E.). France. Elegant cape with a deep ball: Ireland. Gaelic word for any part of the male or collar that was held in place with cords around the female dress. collar. It could be worn over one or both shoulders. ballantine: See reticule. Balaklava: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, gros ballerina dress: Mid-calf-length dress for dinner or d’Afrique mantilla with box-pleated flounce. Trimmed evening. with pearl-edged braid on an insertion lace. -skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. balandran: See caban. Introduced in 1883, tulle evening skirt on a silk or balandrana: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renais- satin base. Top layer of tulle commonly spotted with sance (1450–1550 C.E.). Traveler’s cloak with hood stars, pearls, or beetle wings to sparkle. Often worn and large sleeves. with a velvet or satin bodice. balantine: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). ballibuntal: See ballibuntl. Woman’s that hung free from the belt. See ballibuntl: Philippine Islands. Fine, shiny, smooth also reticule; ridicule. straw similar to baku straw. 22 balloon cloth balloon cloth: Closely woven, fine cotton fabric origi- baltaich: Ireland. Gaelic word for a welt, belt, or border. nally used for balloons and dirigibles. bälte: Sweden. Belt. balloon hat: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular balteum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Pair of belts. from 1783 to 1785, woman’s gauze hat with a huge balteum militare: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Mili- balloon-shaped crown and a wide brim. Celebration tary belt. of Lunardi and the balloon. balteus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Baldric or leather balloon skirt: Voluminous skirt. girdle. See also cīnctus. balloon sleeve: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Wom- baltion: Greek (3000 B.C.E.–100 B.C.E.). Pair of belts. an’s sleeve cut full to elbow, fitted in the forearm. baluchar: Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.) to Gay Nineties ballpark blue: Pastel blue color. (1890–1900 C.E.). India. A silk brocade sari made ballroom neckcloth: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United with supplementary weft motifs of diagonal rows of Kingdom. Popular in 1830s, man’s white starched small flowers. neckcloth worn with the end held crossing in the balusu: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja armband of white front with a pin. shelkl. ball-serice: Ireland. Gaelic word for beauty spot. Balz: Germany. Old High German term for belt. balmacaan: (20th century). Loose-fitting overcoat, fuller balza: 1. See balzana. 2. Italy. Flounce. at the bottom than the top, usually with raglan balzana: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Trim sleeves. Originated in Scotland. around the hem of a gown. balmoral: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 : Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in the C.E.). United Kingdom. Intro- 1830s, cotton and fabric. duced by Prince Albert around balzerine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1889, 1853, laced shoe or half-boot. Later narrow striped grenadine overlaid with wide silk in 1890s, a tennis shoe. 2. United crepe stripes. Kingdom. Strong, heavy twill balzo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Large, round balmoral weave fabric with stripes of red, headdress that hid the wearer’s head. See also photospread (Foot and Legwear). blue, and black. 3. Kind of wom- bamagia: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Linen or an’s cheap petticoat. cotton fabric used for interfacing. balmoral bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- bambak: . Cotton. dom. Introduced in 1867, postillion corsage with bambergs: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Armor for the short basques. shin. See also bainbergs. balmoral cap: Flat tam-o’-shanter. bambino hat: (1930–1940 C.E.). Wide-brimmed hat that balmoral cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1852, framed the face like a halo. Named for the paintings woman’s sleeveless, hooded, short cloak. of the Christ Child by Luca della Robbia. balmoral cloth: United Kingdom. Twill weave fabric bambulo: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1885, striped in red, gray, blue, or black. coarse, translucent canvas. balmoral crape: (1890–1900 C.E.). United Kingdom. bamkyinie: Ashanti. Umbrella used for state occasions. Introduced in 1895. bams: Sailors’ leather gaiters. balmoral jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, wom- bàn: Ireland. White. an’s jacket cut like a waistcoat and buttoning to the bàn chài quan áo: Vietnam. Clothes brush. throat. In 1870, more tailored version with belt and ban hi: China. Tang dynasty. Woman’s upper garment. cuffs. bana: India. . balmoral mantle: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1866, banador: Spain. Bathing suit. woman’s cashmere, cloth, or velvet cape. banafsai: India. Purple. balmoral petticoat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle banat: India. Silken lace embroidered with gold or sil- (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Red and black ver wire. wool petticoat. Popularly worn under a long dress banco: Ecuador and Guatemala. Base of a looped up for walking from 1860 to 1870s. wheel. balneari: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Bath clothes. band: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Turned-down balneri: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s bath collar. 2. See lint. clothes. band strings: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Laces or balones: Ecuador and Guatemala. Very full knee strings used to tie the band or together. breeches. banda arricciata: Italy. Flounce; ruffle. balt: 1. Ireland. Gaelic word for the welt of a shoe; a belt bandanna: Red or blue cotton handkerchief distinguished or the selvedge of fabric. 2. Romania. Narrow belt by its white or colored -shaped ornaments. with brass ornaments. Banddurchzug: Germany. Trimming insertion. barbe 23 : 1. Narrow brassiere. 2. Narrow filet for the bankuo: Ashanti. Weft-designed cotton cloth. head. Banlon: Patented crimped knit yarn. bandeau beehive crown hat: bann-amh’cha: Ireland. Gaelic word for neckband of a (1910–1920 C.E.). Woman’s shirt. velvet turban-shaped hat bann-bhràghad: Ireland. 1. Cravat. 2. Front band of a with ostrich plumes. Worn woolen or cotton shirt. very low on the head. bann-bhràighe: Ireland. Cape. bandekin: See baldekin. bann-dùirn léine: Ireland. Shirt . bandelet: Filet. bann-muineal: Ireland. Gaelic word for collar. bandelette: See bandelet. bannockburn: Scotland. fabric made in Ban- bandera: Bolivia. Bright, mul- nock. Used in and topcoats. ticolored poncho with even- baño reservado: Ecuador and Guatemala. Indigo. width stripes. bante: Nigeria. Triangular . band-gale-kā-coat: India. : 1. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Late Geor- Short coat with fitted neck. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s cut like bandeau beehive crown hat bandhana-krtsna: India. coat of the period. Often made of Indian linen, silk, Worn from 300 to 700 C.E., or velvet. In 1780s, worn outdoors in the country. shoes with more than three . 2. India. Undershirt, originally of muslin, now made bandhani: India. The resist technique used in tie-dye. from blends. bandhej: See bandhani. banzhi: China. Thumb ring. bandi: India. A sleeveless bagalbundi. ba’o barit: Borneo. Printed beads. bāndiā angarkhā: India. Short, fitted, long-sleeved coat ba’o bata’: See let. that fastens with tapes on the chest or at the side. bao bó: Vietnam. Sackcloth. bandileer: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Leather bal- ba’o burur: Borneo. Heavy cornelian beads. drick popularized by musketeers who wore them ba’o rawir: Borneo. Small elongated orange beads. over the left shoulder. bao táo: Vietnam. Sackcloth. banditti: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). bao tou: China. Rectangular scarf of black cotton or Small, decorative bunch of feathers worn on wom- gummed silk held on the head with a woven band. en’s bonnets. baori: Japan. A style of hat. bandle: 1. Ireland. Homespun, coarse linen that is wo- báosha zhiwù: China. Muslin. ven two feet wide. 2. Scotland, United Kingdom. Old Bär: Germany. Bear fur. fabric measurement two feet wide. bar pin: Three-inch-long, narrow breast pin of platinum bandle linen: Ireland. Homemade linen. or gold, often set with row of gems. bandleg brief: Woman’s panty style with strip of rib- bar shoe: Shoe with bar or buckle bing around leg opening. across the instep. bandolier: See bandileer. barani: India. A type of upper coat. bandolier cloth: United States. Bed sheeting dyed olive baranice: Slovakia. Plain lamb- drab and used in army and navy as belts for carrying skin cap with earflaps. cartridges. barasi: India. Vedic period. Cloth bandore: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Woman’s from the fibers of the red- bar shoe mourning headdress with black veil. flowered rhododendron. See also photospread bandore peak: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Wom- baratea: Spain. . (Foot and Legwear). an’s mourning black bonnet that curved to a point barathea: Silk and cotton blend fabric with pebbly over the center of the forehead. weave resembling chain armor. bandvai gujarati: India. from . barba: Portugal. Beard or whiskers. bane: Borneo. A necklace. barbante: Portugal. Thread. Bangalore cap: India. A black felt -shaped cap. barbe: 1. Byzantine and Roman- bangbangan: . Red on white color combination esque (400–1200 C.E.). Piece of used in fabric. fabric, often linen, worn under bàn-gheal: Ireland. Milk white color. the chin. Commonly worn by bangkok: Fine, light straw. widows or persons in mourn- bangle: India. Bracelet of colored glass. ing. 2. Renaissance (1450–1550 bangle bracelet: Round, rigid bracelet. C.E.). Hood supported by wire bành-tô: Vietnam. Topcoat. that dipped low over the fore- banker’s blue: (1950–1960 C.E.). Dark blue color. head into a point. barbe 24 barbel

barbel: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1827, pompadour barleycorns: See wheat ears. blue. barlingham: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). United barber’s apron: Plastic circular cape worn to protect Kingdom. Taffeta woven in Barlingham. clothes during haircut. Fastens at nape of neck. barmcloth: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Leather apron barbette: See barbe. worn by workmen. barbichet: Woman’s headdress made like barmecloth: See barmcloth. but with . barmfell: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic barboteuse: France. Rompers. (1350–1450 C.E.). Workman’s leather apron. Barbour jacket: United Kingdom. Country all-weather barmillion: United Kingdom. Fustian made in Man- coat made of waterproof . chester. barbui: Romania. Fan-shaped pleats. barmskin: See barmfell. barbúli: Greece. Fine red kerchief worn like a turban. barn-door britches: United States of America. Front-fall : Late Gothic (1350–1450 trousers. C.E.). Helmet of Italian origin that baro: Philippine Islands. Woman’s wide sleeved blouse. covered most of the face. Alleg- baronduki: Russia. Misspelling of burunduki, a chip- edly worn by Joan of Arc. munk. barcelona: Spain. Kerchief or twilled Baronette: Trade name for rayon. silk worn around the neck or head. barong tagalong: Philippine Islands. Shirt or blouse Barcelona: Crinoline (1840–1865 worn instead of dinner jacket. C.E.). Name given to various barouche: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). forms of women’s outerwear. Snug, three-quarter-length coat with full sleeves. Barcelona scarf: Denmark. Wom- Closed down the front with gold buttons and belted an’s scarf of patterned silk. at the waist. barbute Barchent: Germany. Fustian. barpour: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in barclod: See ffedog. 1847, twilled silk and wool blend fabric. bard: India. A large wrapper. barraca: Portugal. Big umbrella. barège: Romantic (1815–1840 barracan: 1. Palestine. Length of cloth worn wrapped C.E.). Introduced in 1819, trans- around body and drawn over head and shoulders. lucent silk and wool blend fabric. Worn as cloak, mantle, or coat. Originally made of barège Anglais: Crinoline (1840–1865 coarse . 2. Fabric of goat or camel hair. C.E.). Summer weight dress fabric. barracano: Coarse Bedouin cloth blanket. barège de laine: Crinoline (1840– : See barracan. 1865 C.E.). Woolen and cotton barraighin: Ireland. Gaelic word for miter. fabric. barras: Holland. Canvas or linen for neckcloths. barège de Pyrenees: Crinoline barratee: See barathea. Barcelona (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in barratine: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Directoire 1850, printed with flowers. (1790–1815 C.E.). United States of America. Popular barège-grenadine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced from 1697 to 1800, silk fabric used for and in 1877, cotton and jute blend barege. . baret: Holland. . barre: Silk fabric striped selvage to selvage. Barett: See barrette. barrel hose: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Men’s full baréza: Greece. Woolen winter veil. breeches. stitch: Upright canvas stitch. barrel purse: Cylindrical bag with two handles that bari: India. Bengal cotton. connect on the flat sides of the barito: Romania. Cloth foot wraps. barrel. Commonly opens on barjura: See svechchhitika. one side with a flap. bark cloth: 1. Fabric made of soaked inner bark of tree barrel sash: Worn by hussars, and then dyed or ornamented. 2. Modern fabric imi- a sash with a large number tating appearance of tree bark. of cords that passed through bark crepe: Rough crepe fabric imitating tree bark. tubes. barkit: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Slang term for barret: Renaissance (1450–1550 dirt hardened onto the hair. C.E.). Spain. commonly barleycorn: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) Figured slashed, puffed, and embroi- fabric with small regular design. 2. Basket weave dered. with floats. barrete: Portugal. Barret. barrette Batist 25 barrette: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. A flat, basmak: 1. See sapog. 2. Turkey. Shoe; sandal. four-cornered velvet cap worn by men. 2. Elizabe- basque: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Short, skirt- than (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Hat similar to biretta like ending of woman’s bodice. but with stiff, turned up brim. Lining of brim was basque belt: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Corset-like generally different color than rest of hat and was garment worn by many men in 1830s and 1840s to often embroidered, trimmed, slashed, or puffed. create the slim-waisted look. Varied greatly in size. In Germany, called the Barett. basque : France. Round, flat, soft wool cap worn barrettino: Italy. Long, knitted red or black stocking cap by Basque peasants. favored by fishermen and farmers. basque shirt: Knitted woolen shirt woven in con- barrie: See barry. trasting horizontal stripes. barros miudas: India. A Portuguese term for colored basque waistband: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, opaque beads. woman’s bodice with five vandyked tabs as basque. barrow coat: Baby or flannel wrap used to wrap basque-habit: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s bodice up baby. Usually bag shaped with attached cap. with square basques. barry: Slang for underskirt or petticoat. basquin body: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s baršun: See samt. bodice cut with basque in one with bodice. barthaube: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. basquina: Spain. Overskirt. Chin guard of plate. basquine: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Restraining barvell: United States of America. Coarse leather apron. underbodice of heavy material. 2. Elizabethan (1550– bas: France. Literally “stocking.” 1625 C.E.). Boned, hip-length bodice similar to corset. bas à cotes: France. Ribbed or openwork stockings. Basquine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s bas à jour: See bas à cotes. unlined cloak with wide, loose sleeves. bas de laine: France. Wool stockings. basquine a l’espagnole: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In bas de soie: France. Silk stockings. 1857, woman’s silk or satin jacket with basque cut in bas de soy: See bas de soie. deep scallops edged with silk braid and lace. Sleeves basane: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). trimmed like basque. Lappets around neck imitating Strip of woven bronze lace. collar. basc: 1. Ireland. Gaelic word for the color red. 2. See basta cloth: Indonesia. Fabric with yellow ground and muince. red motif. baschina: Italy. Basque. bastão: Portugal. Walking stick; cane. bascinet: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Round, pointed baston con anima: Italy. Gadget cane. helmet without a visor or throat piece. bata: Portugal. Dressing gown. basco: Italy. Beret. bata corta: Spain. Smock. base coat: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Man’s bata de casa: Spain. Housedress. with pleated, knee-length skirt, short sleeves, and bata de mañana: Spain. Dressing gown. square neckline. batakari: Ghana. Smock. baselard: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Ornamental batas: Lithuania. Boot. dagger. batavia: Twill. basen: See bazan. batavia cloth: Philippine Islands. Straw and cotton or : Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Cartridge-pleated, silk fabric used for . knee-length skirts of rich material worn by men. bateau neckline: 1. Boat-shaped neckline. 2. Crinoline bashlik: Russia. Hood. (1840–1865 C.E.). Wide, low neckline on women’s : 1. (1950–1959 C.E.). Fitted cloth hood worn garments. covering the ears. 2. India. A Scythian pointed felt bath-throid: Ireland. Gaelic word for helmet. cap. bâti: France. The outlining thread couched on a lace bashōfu: Japan. A fabric made from the banana plan- pattern. tain fiber. baticol: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Burnished basil: Tanned sheepskin used for shoe linings. steel breeches. basin de laine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced batik: Indonesia. Method of resist developed in in 1855, thick, wool ribbed on one side. Java. Wax is used as resist, leaving slight streaking in basinet: See bascinet. pattern where dye permeates cracks in resist. basing: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). batilla: Ecuador. A shoulder wrap. Rectangular cloak of fur worn by men. batín: Spain. . basket weave: Plain weave using paired threads. batina: Portugal. . basma: 1. See batistă. 2. Turkey. Printed cloth. Batist: Germany. . 26 batist

batist: Germany and Holland. Batiste; cambric. Popular from 1815 to 1835, dress trimmed with two batistă: Romania. Handkerchief. rows reaching from shoulder to hem. batista: Italy and Spain. Batiste. bavette: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Bib of an batiste: France. Sheer, finely woven, plain weave, cot- apron. ton fabric named for inventor Baptiste Chambrai, bavlna: Czechoslovakia. Cotton. French weaver in the 13th century. bavlnka: Slovakia. Girl’s skirt, white with wide red batiste de laine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, stripes, that is worn to indicate that she is of mar- new fabric. riageable age. batiste de soie: Silk batiste. bavolet: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Woman’s batom: Portugal. Lipstick. headdress made of strip of linen that descended batswing: Soft wool or cotton fabric, usually taupe in from top of the head to the shoulders. 2. Crinoline color. (1840–1865 C.E.). Flounce. 3. Ruffle at back edge of Battenburg jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s woman’s bonnet. short outdoor jacket. bawdrech: Baldric or necklace. Battenburg lace: Rough form of used bawdric: See baldrick. for and . See also Renaissance lace. bawełna: Poland. Cotton. Battist: Germany. Cambric. bayadère: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1869, battle jacket: (1910–1920 and 1940–1950 C.E.). Single- striped silk and wool fabric made in plain or twill breasted, waist-length man’s jacket worn during weave. World War I. bayadère poplin: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, batts: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 poplin with narrow silver stripe. C.E.). Woman’s popular black leather shoe with me- bayeta: 1. Ecuador and Guatemala. Plain-weave woolen dium heel that fastened with latchet or buckle. fabric. 2. Bolivia. Coarse woolen fabric. 3. Spain. An batuz work: Embroidery with attached metal plates. English red cloth. batwat: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Small padded cap bayeta de lishtas: Ecuador. A woman’s shoulder wrap. worn under helmet. bayō: Ethiopia. Pointed leather cap. batwing: (20th century). Sleeve with deep armseye. bayonnaise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, similar to batyst: Poland. Batiste. tamise cloth. batz: Guatemala. Cotton thread. bays: See baize. baudekin: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Brocade of silk bayt al-sham: Palestine. Plain white cotton used for and gold. underdresses. baudekyn: See baudekin. bazan: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Sheepskin tanned baudricke: See baldrick. in oak or birch bark. baugr: Norway. Old Norse word for bracelet. bazayl: Palestine. Flannelette for men’s and baum marten: Soft, durable fur of the European brown women’s dresses. marten. Bazna: Algeria. Woman’s silk sash. Baumwolle: Germany. Cotton. bāzūband: India. Armlet with folding bands. Baumwollsamt: Germany. . bēabhar: Ireland. Gaelic word for beaver. bauson skin: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Skin of beach coat: (20th century). Short, loose coat of terry badger. cloth or toweling used for beachwear. bautta: Italy. Black cloak with hood deep enough to bead lace: Strip of black tulle with beads sewn on in cover face of wearer. motifs. bavaglio: Italy. Bib. beading stitch: A line of small overcast holes. bavalla: Italy. Fabric woven from and comb- bēag: United Kingdom. Old English word for bracelet. ings. beah: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United bavarel: France. Woman’s corset cut straight in front Kingdom. Ring for the finger, arm, neck, or head. and reaching high point in back where it fastened. : (1940–1950 C.E.). Calotte. Worn outside dress. beannag: Ireland. Gaelic word for kerchief, the corner bavarette: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Child’s bib. of a plaid, skirt, linen coif, or shawl. Bavarian dress-style: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Intro- bearams: See beiramee. duced in 1826, carriage dress trimmed with rows of bearding: In a , the batting fibers that migrate to bands down front of the garment. the surface of the quilt top. Bavarian lace: Simple bobbin lace of linen or cotton bearing cloth: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Robe or thread. large square of heavy silk cloth used to carry a child Bavarian pelisse robe: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). to his/her baptism. beidài 27 bearm-clap: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 bedford cloth: Sturdy fabric with lengthwise ribs made C.E.). United Kingdom. Apron. from wool, silk, cotton, synthetics, or blends. See also bear’s paw: Renaissance (1450– Bedford cord. 1550 C.E.). Padded shoes. Bedford cord: United States of America. Worsted, : A grenadier cap cov- ribbed fabric used for riding habits, livery, suits, and ered in fur. children’s clothes. bearskin pants: Greenland. Men’s Bedfordshire : Black silk or cream cotton white bearskin pants. bobbin lace. beatelle: See betteela. Bedfordshire plaited lace: A bobbin lace in which the beatilla: Renaissance (1450–1550 ground is formed of wheat ears in a square forma- C.E.). Spain. Hood of sheer mate- tion. rial that reached to the back and bedla: Egypt. Woman’s floor length A-line gown with the chest. full sleeves. bear's paw See also photospread Beatrice: Crinoline (1840–1865 bedong: Borneo. Woman’s waistband. (Foot and Legwear). C.E.). United States of America. bedrukt katoen: Holland. Calico. Introduced 1860, nine-flounced bedrukte katoenen stof: Holland. Cotton print. spring dress. bee chaha’ohí: Navajo. Umbrella. Beatrice parasol: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United beech marten: See baum marten. Kingdom. Popular parasol of the 1860s named for the beefeater: Brimmed black hat with flat, high crown. youngest daughter of Queen Victoria. bee-gum hat: Popular term for high silk hat. Beatrice twill: United Kingdom. Twill weave fabric, beehive bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 usually cotton, but sometimes a worsted or alpaca C.E.). Hive-shaped bonnet of straw that tied under blend. chin with ribbon. beattillia: See betteela. beehive coiffure: (1950–1960 C.E.). Woman’s hairstyle beau-catcher: 1. Curl worn in middle of woman’s fore- built on back combed base. head. Also called spit curl. 2. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). beehive hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) In 1866, long ribbon tied at back of bonnet. and 1910–1914. Large, beehive-shaped hat that came beaudoy: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Worsted down far over the head. Popular from 1910 to 1914. fabric used for stockings. beenwindsel: Holland. Puttee. beaupers: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Linen. jacket: (1920–1930 and 1930–1940 C.E.). Simple beauty patches: Roman to modern times. Small, black cotton or linen flannel jacket popular with male col- velvet shapes worn on the face, throat, and breast. lege students. beauty spot veil: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Veiling : Lustrous treatment for cotton and linen fab- with sparsely powdered velvet spots. rics. beauvais embroidery: France. Tapestry-like form of beffschen: Switzerland. Plain neck band. embroidery. beg: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to Re- beaver: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Moveable face naissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Middle guard on helmet. 2. Hat made of beaver fur or imita- English word for bracelet. tion fur. 3. Short-haired, durable fur with dense pile begadim levanim: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). He- from the Castor canadensis. brew’s white clothes. beaver cloth: Heavyweight, woolen fabric with soft fin- beggar’s lace: See Bavarian lace. ish and thick nap used to make overcoats. beguin: 1. Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). Introduced in 12th beaver fustian: See beaverteen. century, three-piece fine linen cap. 2. Renaissance beaverteen: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Cotton twilled (1450–1550 C.E.). Felt or velvet cap. 3. Early Georgian fabric with warp drawn up into loops. (1700–1750 C.E.). Linen cap worn under the wig. bebed: Java. A rectangular textile worn wrapped bei xin: China. Sleeveless waistcoat worn by boys. around men’s hips. bei yen: China. In the Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.), bebedi: See . long drop ornament hung from back of chao zhu. beche-cashmere: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- bei ze: China. In the Ming dynasty (1368–1644 C.E.), a duced in 1848, soft wool fabric thicker than flannel. narrow robe which met in the center front and tied beck: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Beak shaped por- at the chest. It was worn for informal wear or as an tion of hood worn in 1500–1525. underrobe. bed jacket: (20th century). Short jacket worn when rest- bei zi: China. Ming dynasty. Narrow sleeved or sleeve- ing in bed. less dress with front opening. bedelarmband: Holland. Charm bracelet. beidài: China. . 28 bèifú

bèifú: China. Army clothing. bellows pocket: Pocket on man’s sporting coat cut with beige: 1. Natural or undyed fabric. 2. Cotton, worsted, large inward pleat, allowing great expansion. or rayon twill weave fabric. 3. Light tan or ecru color. bellows sleeve: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Gathered 4. See grege. 5. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in sleeve with and long vertical slit through which 1874, coffee colored wool vicuna fabric. arm passed. beige damasse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, loose, belodreshnik: Bulgaria. Men’s “white dress”: narrow light woolen tissue. trousers and Slavic top. beiramee: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) India. Cotton belongkon: Java. Intricately folded turban sewn from fabric for export. See also bairami. an ikat. bekatapu: Borneo. Wearing a war cap. belti: See lindi. bekecs: See kodmon. Belvidera: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, shawl- bekengkang: Borneo. To be striped. shaped lace net scarf with Greek applique. beksis: Lithuania. Trousers. Bemberg: United States of America. Trademark name béla: Greece. Nickname for a blonde woman. for a rayon made by American Bemberg Corporation. belcher: Blue kerchief with white spots with blue cen- ben’àn: China. Aniline. ters. Popularized by Jim Belcher, English pugilist. benares: India. Silk and metal tissue fabric. béledzík: Greece. Bracelet. benayeq: Israel. Side panels in woman’s gown. belette: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Elizabethan benayiq: Palestine. Side panels of woman’s gown. (1550–1625 C.E.). Jewel or ornament. bend: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Belgian lace: Pillow lace from Belgium. United Kingdom. Headband. Belgian linen: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in benda: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Length of 1879, thick, damask-like, cream colored linen with veiling used to wrap around and through the hair. colored pattern. bendera: Kenya. Red cotton fabric. Belgian split straw: Narrow straw plaiting. bendigo: Poor man’s skin cap. Belgium Venise: A made to imitate 17th- bend-leather: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 century Venetian raised lace. C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Leather from Belgrave shoe: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). A woman’s calf- back and flanks of an animal used to make jack boots. skin, low-heeled evening shoe. The benerica: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Scallop back of the shoe extended up be- shell pattern. hind the ankle, gladiator-style. The benevretsi: Bulgaria. Trousers with tight-fitting legs that tongue-less shoe laced from the ball are worn low on pelvis and fastened with belt of string. of the foot to the top of the ankle. bengal: India. Striped cotton gingham made in Bengal, beli potouri: Bulgaria. White wool India. trousers worn over futsami gashti. bengal stripes: India. Cheap cotton fabric with stripes Belgrave shoe bell bottoms: (1960–1970 C.E.). on white ground. Trousers with wide, flaring bottoms. bengalina: Spain. . bell hoop: See cupola coat. bengaline: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to present. Intro- bell suit: (1950–1959 C.E.). Wom- duced in 1869, very light mohair in solid color or an’s skirted suit where the jacket brocaded with small flowers and corded. is nipped in at the waist and has a bengaline constellation: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). padded bell-shaped hipline. In 1892, a bengaline with two sized spots resembling bellboy hat: (1910–1920 C.E.). moons and stars. United States of America. Late in bengaline de soie: Silk, plain weave, corded fabric. decade, woman’s high-crowned, bengaline poplin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced small visored hat with plume or in 1865, poplin with thick cord. bow in the front. bengaline russe: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Intro- Belle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). duced in 1892, shot wool and silk blend. In 1853, silk mantilla with deep beni: Japan. Red; deep red. collar trimmed with a border of benjamin: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). silk folds and deep fringe. Man’s close-fitting overcoat. belling: Norway. Hide from the benjy: Slang term for waistcoat. bell suit legs of a reindeer. benn: Scotland. Colored silk sash. See also photospread Belliz: Germany. Fur. benoiton chains: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Popu- (Women's Wear). bellotas: Peru. Woolen pompons lar in 1866, chains of metal or jet that hung from the Dover Publications often used as trim on hats. chignon to the bosom. bewdley cap 29 bents: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Support for worn by Italian army rifle corps. stays made from bunches of hollow stemmed reeds. bersáña: Greece. Small chains with coins worn as part 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Strips of whalebone of the bridal headdress. or rushes used to create the shape of bum rolls and berta: Italy. Bertha. . bertha: Romantic (1815–1840 bequin: France. Plain white linen cap named for Be- C.E.). Wide collar popular guines, order of nuns. on women’s gowns. Ac- beram: See beiramee. cented dropped shoulder beramen: Palestine. Woman’s extra-long gown. The line. Often made of lace. bertha excess fabric is pulled up and draped over a belt Berthe: Germany. Bertha. (shuwayhiyyeh). bertita: Romania. Narrow embroidered band on wrist berber: Light satin fabric. of shirt. berdash: Wide cravat. berundjuk: Turkey. Woman’s at-home white silk che- beret: Round wool or felt cap made from circle with edge mise. drawn up with string to fit head. Believed to date to beryl: Semiprecious stone colored blue green, yellow, Ancient Greece. Today cap is made in sized felt and pink, and white. tiny tail (tontarra) is sewn on to cover eye of cap. beryllus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Aquamarine, a beret basque: France. Beret. gemstone. beret de marin: France. Cap ribbon. besague: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic beret sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- (1350–1450 C.E.). ’s horn-like staff. 2. Renaissance dom. Short sleeve made from wide circle of fabric (1450–1550 C.E.). Small plates to protect the armpits. and stiffened with muslin; similar to beret. beshmet: Russia. Military quilted jacket. beretta: Medium-large draped beret. Bessarabian lamb: Coarse type of Persian lamb. berettino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Shade of besshe: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). An animal fur, gray, bordering on black. Favored by Isabella d’Este. probably squirrel. berger: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Curl of hair at bestickt: Germany. To be quilted. nape of neck that hung to shoulder. bete: Romania. Three to four meter long braid of dyed bergere hat: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Direc- wool worn by women as sash. toire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Large straw beteele: East India. Muslin once used for petticoats. hat with flexible brim and low crown. beten: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Embroidery on Beringt: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. garments. Ringed mail. Bethlehem headdress: 1. Muslim. Woman’s tarboosh in canvas: Coarse, square mesh embroidery fabric. red or green on which were sewn coins to represent Berlin gloves: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to present. her dowry. When woman was married, white veil Knitted cotton gloves. was worn over hat. 2. (1920–1930 C.E.). Hat shaped Berlin wool: Embroidery yarn of merino wool. like a truncated cone and trimmed with veil or coins. Berlin work: Embroidery done on Berlin canvas, usu- Betsie: Directoire and First Em- ally form of cross-stitch. pire (1790–1815 C.E.). Multi- : Germany. Gloves similar to Woodstock gloves. tiered lace collar named for bermejo: Spain. Vermillion. Queen Elizabeth I. By 1807, bermellon: Spain. Vermillion. collar could have as many as Bermuda fagoting: Fagoting on wrong side of fabric. seven falls of lace. bermuda : Pair of shorts that end just above the betteela: India. Kind of muslin. knee. Made of or cotton. betúnici: Greece. Festival costume bernec: Romania. Woolen braid used to fasten skirt at of a newly married woman. waist. betweens: Small, thin needles Betsie Bernhardt mantle: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Short used to quilt. outdoor cape named for actress Sarah Bernhardt. beuk: Holland. Woman’s upper body garment. bernia: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Cloak of beul-a-theach: Ireland. Gaelic word for band on a pair shaggy woolen cloth. of trousers. beronis: See beiramee. beur: India. Bodice. berretino: Italy. Skull-cap worn by cardinals. beurs: Holland. Purse. berretto: Italy. Cap. : See beaver. berretto alla marinara: Italy. Hat ribbon. bewar: See beur. bersagliere: Italy. Black glazed felt hat with plume bewdley cap: See . 30 bez

bez: See platno. back with highest point being in center front, or side to béza: Greece. Head kerchiefs. side with highest point in center. Worn by men. bezelikia: See bezelitsa. bicycle bal: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Low-heeled, lace- bezelitsa: Greece. Wide bracelets. up leather or canvas shoe worn for bicycling. bezulánky: Slovakia. Green woolen skirts that are worn bicycle clip: (1950–1960 C.E.). Simple velvet or satin in winter. band worn in hair for evening. bhaga: India. A cloth woven from the fiber of the bhag bidang: 1. Borneo. Woman’s short tubular skirt deco- tree. rated with ikat. 2. Borneo. Woman’s knee-length pet- bhagawān: India. Loincloth. ticoat. 3. Malaysia. Woman’s short wrapped skirt of bhagela: India. A modern term for bhaga. handwoven cotton. bhairnavasani: India. The earliest form of skirt; a tu- bidémña: Greece. Fine, twisted wool or silk thread for bular cloth held up in gathers around the waist by embroidery. a girdle. biec: Vietnam. Green colored. Bhayyā-cap: India. White cap. biedermeier: Germany. Style of dress similar to French bhrameraka: India. Lock of hair on forehead. crinoline. bhurra: United Kingdom. English plain weave cotton bielizna: Poland. Underwear. fabric with basket weave border used for African bietle: Native American. Deerskin jacket worn by native clothes. Apache women. bi xi: China. Long narrow panel on front of a robe, bietta: Bright red cloth. through which belt is drawn. biézhen: China. Safety pin or brooch. biàn: China. 1. Man’s cap. 2. Braid of hair. bifid beard: Saxon’s beard, parted in the center. biancherie dammaschinate: Italy. Damask linen. Big Look: (1970–1980 C.E.). Fash- bianchetto: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. White ion for oversized tops, fre- cloth, maybe wool. quently paired with tight pants bianco: Italy. White. or . biànxié: China. . bigarré: France. Checkered. bias: The diagonal of the fabric weave. bigdai tsivonim: Biblical (un- bib blouse: High-necked, back-buttoned blouse with known–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s col- plastron front. ored clothes. bib-cravat: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s bib-like bigean: Ireland. Gaelic word for cravat. cap. bibe: Portugal. Pinafore; child’s apron. biggen: See beguin. Biber: Germany. Beaver. biggin: 1. See beguin. 2. Renaissance Biberhaar: Germany. Beaver hair. (1450–1550 C.E.). Baby’s bonnet. bibi bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 biggon: See beguin. C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s biggonet: Woman’s cap, often bonnet with sides tilted upward. with earpieces. bibi : Romantic (1815–1840 bigio: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Popular in 1830s, any ca- C.E.). Italy. Gray. pote with projecting brim. Shaped bignere: Married Hamar wom- Big Look See also photospread like baby’s bonnet. an’s torque with penis-shaped (Women's Wear). bibila: Turkey. A form of open, decoration. Dover Publications knotted needle lace. bigotera: Spain. Metal contriv- bibíla: Greece. Fine lace. ance worn overnight in the bibizári: Greece. Fine silk fabric moustaches to give them a cockleshell twist. bibi capote used for the wedding chemise. bigouden: France. worn by both sexes and trimmed bice: See besshe. in red bold silk designs copied from . bích-không: Vietnam. Azure blue. bihari: India. A high quality muslin from Bihar Sharif. bich-ngoc: Vietnam. Emerald. bijel: Bosnia. White colored. bicoquet: Late Gothic (1350–1450 bìji: China. Serge. C.E.). France. Steel hood with bijou: France. Jewel. pointed top that left face uncovered. Bijou: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s bicorne: Late Georgian (1750–1790 silk mantle shaped at waist with four box- C.E.). Developed from Swiss mili- pleats. Trimmed with bretelles, fancy galloon, and bicorne tary hat, had flaps in front and heavy fringe. bishop cotton 31 bijouterie: France. Gold or fancy jewelry. biodag: Scotland. . bijoutier: See joaillier. biorān: Ireland. Pin. : (1940–1950 C.E.). Originally created by the biorraid: Ireland. Gaelic word for helmet or cap with a House of Heim, Paris, woman’s two-piece bathing scoop on it. dress. birawō: Ethiopia. Silver bikini chain belt: (1960–1969 C.E.). Narrow gold chain birbíla: Greece. Fine, golden lace kerchief worn at the worn with bikini or hip-huggers. waist. bikla: Hungary. Characteristic white skirt of tulle, fine bird of paradise: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Straw color. linen, or cambric. Five or six could be worn at one time. birda: Egypt. A 1-1/2-by-4-meter rectangle worn as bil: Dress worn by the Navajo women that is made from wrap. two rectangular handwoven pieces of fabric tied at birdseye: Small geometric pattern woven into one shoulder and belted at the waist. fabric with dot in middle to resemble bird’s eye. bìlán: China. Dark blue. birdseye pique: Pique fabric with birdseye pattern. bilbo: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Sword made biretta: Elizabethan (1550–1625 in Bilbao, famed for its fine steel blades. C.E.). Non-liturgical cap worn bilboquets: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle by Catholic officials consisting (1865–1890 C.E.). Small rolls of pipe cleaners used to of stiff square cap with three or set . four projections rising above bili javali: India. A white cloth. crown. biliment: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Woman’s elab- biretz: Reversible wool or wool orate, delicate headdress made of lace with gold blend fabric with twill weave threads, beads, jewels, gauze, and a feather. on one side and cord on other. bill: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Military pole made birinji: India. Brass colored. biretta from staff about six feet long and spiked axe blade. birisi: Ghana. 1. Native woven See also photospread billicock: United Kingdom. Hard felt hat with round black fabric worn by chief (Headwear). crown. Examples include the derby, the bowler, or when in mourning. 2. The color indigo blue. the melon. birisii: See birisi. billiment: 1. See biliment. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 birnetsi: Bulgaria. Men’s full-bottomed trousers with C.E.). Decorative border, often of gold and jewels, fitted legs trimmed with black braid on seams. used on the upper edge of a . birodo: Japan. Velvet. billment: See biliment. biron: Java. Blue on white color combination used in billycock: See billicock. fabric. bilqusak: Turkmenistan. Striped silk scarf worn by un- birritta: Sardinia. Long stocking hat of orbace wool or felt. married women tied around hip. birrus: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Thick hooded red cloak. bìlù: China. Dark green. birthday suit: A woman’s one-piece undergarment bím: Vietnam. Lock or tress of hair. that is , girdle, and pant- bina: India. A star-shaped forehead ornament. ies in one piece. So called be- binary chiton: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Robe formed cause it prevents the wearer from two rectangles that joined at shoulders with from having panty lines, sug- pins or ties. gesting that the wearer is in : Flemish. Bobbin lace with floral scrolls on her “birthday suit,” i.e., na- net ground. Originally a handmade bobbin lace of ked under her clothing. linen thread made in a town in Belgium. Bisamratte: Germany. Muskrat. binde: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Biscayan: Crinoline (1840–1865 United Kingdom. Headband, typically worn by secu- C.E.). In 1858, woman’s pard- lar married women. 2. See kupkeh. essus trimmed with black lace binder: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Band of flan- and cord. It had mousquetaire nel worn by babies to support back. sleeves. bindi: India. A forehead ornament; a spangle. bise: See besshe. binette: See full bottomed wig. biser: Bosnia. Pearl. : 1. Japan. Okinawan paste-resistant dyeing tech- bisette: Restoration (1660–1700 birthday suit nique. 2. Japan. Stenciled and dyed Okinawan . C.E.). Coarse bobbin lace. bingle: Hair cut short enough to be above nape of neck. bìsha: China. Black armband. binh-phuc: Vietnam. . bishop: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Horsehair bustle. binnogue: Ireland. Woman’s peasant headdress. bishop cotton: See bishop’s lawn. 32 bishop sleeve

bishop sleeve: (1900 to present). blancard: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. Woman’s long, full sleeve gath- Strong linen fabric. ered onto the wristband. blanchet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Doublet, gen- bishop’s blue: Directoire and erally white, sometimes fur lined. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). In- blanco: Ecuador, Guatemala, and Spain. White. troduced in 1809, purplish blue. blanco cremoso: Spain. Off white. bishop’s knot: Romantic (1815– : Indonesia. Man’s turban-like headdress. 1840 C.E.). Popular from 1836 to blanket cloth: Heavy reversible fabric made in two- 1849, two ends of ribbon which color jacquard weave. fell from bonnet to shoulder. blanket coat: See Hudson Bay coat. bishop’s lawn: Fine lawn. blatta: Purple. bishop’s mantle: Elizabethan blau: Germany. Blue. (1550–1625 C.E.). Germany. Worn blaukappe: See spitzkappe. by the Landsknechts, a deep mail blaunchmer: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). A fur, ani- cape, often with a standing collar. mal unknown, presumably white in color. It was worn over the armor. blaundemer: See blaunchmer. bishop sleeve : 1. United Arab Emirates. A blaundever: See blaunchmer. man’s large cloak worn draped from the shoulders. blauner: See blaunchmer. 2. Palestine. A woman’s sleeveless coat. blauw: Holland. Blue. bisshe: See besshe. blauwe duffel: Holland. Pilot cloth. bister: See bistre. : Bustle (1860–1890 C.E.). Man’s lightweight bistre: Dark brown. jacket. bi-swing: A man’s jacket with a pleat in the blazer cloth: A striped flannel. center back to allow extra movement. blé de Turquie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, rich bít-tãt: Vietnam. ; stockings. shade of yellow. bít-tãt tay: Vietnam. Gloves. blé mur: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, color of ripe bitug: Philippine Islands. Amulet. wheat. bitusca: Romania. Shepherd’s sheepskin coat. blé vert: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, color of half- bivertina: Spain. Beaverteen. ripe wheat. bivouac mantle: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 bleu: France. Blue. C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1814, woman’s bleu Anglais: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, Gordon loose, ankle-length mantle with high collar. Fre- blue. quently in color and lined with ermine. bleuté: France. Bluish. bizou: France. Breton for finger ring. blezer: Poland. Blazer. bizuteria: Poland. Jewelry. bliand: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). bla lome: Sierra Leone. A gown presented to the father Early version of chemise, cut full or slit on sides. of the bride as part of the bride price. bliant: See bliand. black bear: Durable, fine, dark brown fur from black bliaunt: See bliand. bear of North America. bliaus: See bliand. black lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- blistering: Slashing. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Black lace made in Bayeaux, block: Mold used to shape a hat. France, and popularized by Spanish Infanta. bloeja: Norway. Veil. black turquoise: Jet. blonda: Spain. Lace trim. black-a-lyre: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Black cloth blonde: Lightweight, shiny, unbleached silk lace made from Brabant. with varying sizes of yarn. blackerybond: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Long nar- : Fine silk bobbin lace, originally white. row ribbons of black-a-lyre. blonde net: Washable cotton net. : Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Of Spanish blonder: Norway. Metallic woven ribbon. origin, black counted embroidery on white linen. blondes de Caen: France. A bobbin lace made in Caen. blaireau: France. Badger fur. blondine: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Pale nut blană: Romania. Fur. shade. blanc: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1886, blue white. 2. bloomers: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Loose trousers for France. White. women, influenced by Oriental styles. Popularized by blanc haubert: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Amelia Bloomer in 1851. 2. (1900–1910 C.E.). Women’s Coat of mail. loose underdrawers, frequently gathered below knee. boineid 33 blousant: France. Blousing. bocací: Spain. . blouse : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1873, bocaran: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Buckram. double-breasted polonaise. See also bocací. blouse suit: See Russian suit. boccaccino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Cotton blousette: Sleeveless blouse. or linen fabric used to line sleeves. blucher: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Laced shoe bocskor: Hungary. Heelless leather shoes. invented by Field Marshall von Blucher, bôd-da: Andaman islands. Belts made from the panda- of the Prussian forces at Waterloo. Quarters of shoe nus leaf. reached up and met over instep where laced together. bodice: Upper part of woman’s dress. blue fox: Fox fur with mixture of gray, brown, and bodies, pair of: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Under- misty blue hairs. bodice supported with whalebone, wood, or steel. blue john: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- bodkin: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). 1. Dagger. 2. Hair dom. A corruption of the French word bleu-jaune; a ornament. 3. Something used to curl women’s hair. 4. semiprecious stone used in jewelry. Tool used to punch holes in fabric. bluebonnet: Scotland. Traditional cap of shepherd, bodkin cloth: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Rich silk soldier, and gentleman, a one-piece, woven cap of and gold fabric. dark blue wool with blue or red tuft on top. May be bodkin-beard: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Eliz- decorated with ribbon , sprig of evergreen, abethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s long, pointed and/or feather to signify rank within clan. beard. bluet: Plain blue fabric, usually cotton or wool. bodom beads: See adjagba beads. bluey: Australia. Bushman’s shirt, usually blue. body coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Tailoring term bluff edge: Hand-felled edge of cloth coat bound with referring to outer garment of a suit. braid. body shirt: (1960–1970 C.E.). Man’s shirt that tapered to Blumenkränzchen: Germany. Garland. waist, fitting body contours. blusa: 1. Italy, Portugal, and Spain. Blouse. 2. Guate- body stichet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Woman’s mala. Blouse of foreign inspiration. rigid corset. blusa de operário: See camisa de muiher. body stocking: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of Amer- blusante: Italy. Blousing. ica. Stretch suit consisting of and stockings in blusão: Portugal. . one piece that reached from neck to toe. Blusig: Germany. Blousing. body-stychet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United bluska: Poland. Blouse. Kingdom. Corset. bluza: Bosnia. Blouse. bœlte: Denmark. Belt. bó: China. . boemio: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Half- bô cánn: Vietnam. Suit; dress. length, formal cloak of taffeta or velvet, sometimes boa: Long neck scarf of fur, feathers, tulle, or lace. It was lined with fur. six to eight feet long in the late 19th century. It was boershabijt: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. revived in the 1930s and 1960s. Peasant dress. boat neck: See bateau neckline. bofeta: Ethiopia. Cotton cloth. : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 1930s. Man’s sen- bögatya: Hungary. Men’s very wide trousers made nit straw , usually shel- from four to eight widths of 55–60 cm wide fabric lacked, with a very flat brim and and held on with drawstring (gatyamadzag). crown. bogazie: See musui. boater boban: Ireland. Gaelic word for Bohemian lace: Coarse net resembling braid. bobbin. bohemio: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Short bobbin lace: Lace that is worked cape. See also ferreruelo. on pillow around pins marking Boi: Germany. Baize. out design. boicionn: Ireland. Gaelic word for goat skin. : Fine, machine-made boideachan: Ireland. Gaelic word for bodkin. net with a hexagonal mesh. boiled shirt: United States of America. Man’s white bobina: Portugal. Bobbin. shirt with starched bosom. bobo: See calcao. boiled-off silk: Silk with natural gum removed. bob-wig: Early Georgian (1700– boina: 1. Portugal. Cap. 2. Spain. Round wool cap. bob-wig 1750 C.E.). Man’s wig with ends boina vasca: Spain. Beret. See also photospread turned up or “bobbed.” Gradually boineid: 1. Ireland. Gaelic word for bonnet. 2. Scotland. (Headwear). accepted for all classes for undress. Balmoral or bonnet. 34 boineid bhall-ach boineid bhall-ach: Ireland. Gaelic word for tartan bon- bombanas: Straw fiber from bombanassa plant. net. bombards: Loose, baggy, padded breeches. boineid biorach: Ireland. Gaelic term for Glengarry bombasette: See bombazet. bonnet. bombasino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Cotton boineid chath-dath: See boineid bhall-ach. or cotton and linen fabric used to line doublets. bois: Wood brown color. bombast: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Padding of wool, bois de rose: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- flax, or hair used to fill out padded garments of period. duced in 1866, light red brown. 2. (1940–1949 C.E.). bombazet: Thin, worsted plain or twill weave fabric. Grayed red orange color. bombazina: Spain. Bombazine. boiseid: Ireland. Gaelic term for belt or girdle. bombazine: Lightweight, lustrous, twill weave, silk, boisson: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Popu- and worsted fabric used for mourning. lar in 1780s, woman’s short, hooded cloak. bombe: France. Rounded. boje: Nigeria. Wealthy man’s white cotton damask bombei: Kenya. Cheap lightweight cotton. trousers with a very wide drawstring waist and bomber cloth: Strong durable fabric in broken twill short, narrow legs. The trousers are embroidered. weave used for home furnishings. bokani: India. A sequined or embroidered turban band. bombetta: Italy. Bowler. bokashi: Japan. Color gradation or shading. bombycina: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 bokasyn: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Type of fustian. C.E.). Transparent silk textiles. bokshandschoen: Holland. Boxing . bombycine: Made of silk. bolero: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Short jacket, often bomuld: Denmark. Cotton. having rounded corners in front. bomull: Sweden. Cotton. bolero toque: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in bōna: See coilēar. 1887, woman’s small velvet, astrakhan, or fur toque Bonaparte helmet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– with black trim. 1815 C.E.). Woman’s white silk bonnet that gathered bolgar: See bulgar. onto black velvet forehead band. Trimmed with lau- bolia: Greece. A bride’s long white or cream colored rel leaves and ostrich feather. lightweight scarf. bondita: Romania. Sleeveless sheepskin vest. bolivar: Lightweight, fine, wool flannel, often dyed boné: See boina. gray. bone lace: See bobbin lace. Bolivar hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Hat trimmed boneette: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1877, with tartar ribbons and violets. wool and silk blend fabric with damask print. bolivia: Soft, wool fabric used for women’s coats. bông: Vietnam. Cotton. Bolivia cloth: Soft, all wool, pile fabric. Tufts of pile bongos: Zambia. Grass cloth. usually in diagonal or vertical rows. bongrace: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Woman’s boliviano: See bandera. headdress which came to point over forehead. Made bollinger: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- of silk, velvet, or . Sometimes had pearl or dom. Popular from 1858 to 1860s, man’s hat with jewel in center. bowler crown and narrow brim and knob in middle bonnaz: Embroidery on Bonnaz sewing machine. of crown. Originally worn by cab drivers. See also bonnes grâces: France. Border for furnishings, wider hemispherical hat. than passementeries and usually made of lace. Bologna crape: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). A light- bonnet à barbes: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Evening weight silk mourning crape. headdress of lace, ribbon, and roses. boloya: India. Ivory bangles worn by married women. bonnet à flamme: 1. France. Military hat. 2. Elizabethan bolsicón: Ecuador. Spanish style skirt with horizontal (1550–1625 C.E.). Decorative border, often of gold pleats at the hem and gathered on a waistband. and jewels, used on the upper edge of a French hood. bolsillo: Spain. Pocket. bonnet à la crête de coq: Late Georgian (1750–1790 bolso: Spain. Handbag. C.E.). France. Woman’s cap in shape of cock’s comb. boltrachan: Ireland. Gaelic word for perfume. bonnet à la laitière: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). bò-lu: Vietnam. Smock blouse. France. Cap in milkmaid style. bò-lu-dông: Vietnam. Jacket; lumber jacket; wind- bonnet à la moresque: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). breaker. France. Cap in the Moorish fashion. bolzegin: Loose, baggy boots. bonnet à la Richard: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). bombachas: Uruguay. Popularized by gauchos, these France. Woman’s hat in medieval style. long, full pantaloons are gathered at ankles and worn bonnet à la victoire: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). with silver-studded leather belt. France. Woman’s hat decorated with laurel leaves. bosom shirt 35 bonnet assassin: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United borak: See burak. Kingdom. Introduced in 1844, a lace cap. boratto: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Light fabric made bonnet aux trois ordres réunis: Late Georgian (1750– from silk and fine wool. 1790 C.E.). France. In 1789, woman’s gauze miter- borceguí: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. . shaped bonnet. Embroidered with olive leaves and bord: France. Brim. trimmed with bands of white taffeta. Included cock- borda: See aba. ade. bordado: 1. Spain. Embroidery. 2. Portugal. Embroi- bonnet beehive: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Woman’s dery. with crown shaped like beehive. Trimmed bordado a mano: Spain. Hand embroidery. with ribbon to tie under chin. bordado con calados: Spain. Drawn work. bonnet cabriolet: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to bordado con perlas: Spain. Beaded work. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Cabriolet-shaped bonnet bordado cortado: Spain. Cutout embroidery. with bows under chin. bordado en blanco: Spain. Household linen embroi- bonnet de police: France. Policeman’s . dery. bonnet demi-negligee: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). bordado plano: Spain. . France. Woman’s informal hat. bordado suizo: Spain. . bonnet négligée: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). bordāra pyjamā: India. Full straight-legged trousers. France. Woman’s at-home hat. borde: Spain. Hem. bonnet pamela: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Tall crowned bordeaux: The color claret. straw bonnet trimmed with daffodils and ribbons. borduurwol: Holland. Crewel. bonnet rond: Reign of Louis XV. Lower class woman’s boreal: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1886, shade of brown. bonnet with two flaps that covered sides of face. borgal: See bulgar. bonnet sylphide: See bonnet à barbes. Borgana: Trademark name for deep-piled fake fur used bonneterie: France. . in woman’s coat. bonneto: Jewish. Turban. borgeon: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, light green Bonnie and Clyde: (20th century). Dark gray or dark tinged with yellow. blue pin-striped suit worn with full-cut trousers. Borghesé: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of Popular with both genders. America. Woman’s hairstyle with back hair in heavy bont: Holland. Checked cotton from the Indies. Grecian knot ending in braid forming bandeau. booie sum: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of Quite short in front. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a vest. börk: Turkmenistan. Unmarried woman’s embroidered book linen: Firm linen used to stiffen men’s shirt collars. skull cap with jeweled finial (qubpa). boomwol: See katoen. borla: 1. Portugal. Academic cap; tassel. 2. Spain. Tassel. : See bush hat. borrillonnées: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. In boorka: . Ground-length cloak. 1852, alternating rows of Swiss insertion and puff- boot cuff: Early Georgian (1700– ings. 1750 C.E.). Popular from 1727 to borsa: 1. Ireland. Gaelic word for purse. 2. Italy. Purse. 1740s, very deep, turned back cuff borsalino: Italy. Hand constructed hat of fur that was on man’s coat. aged for three years built on felted base which is boot hose: Restoration (1660–1700 aged for four years. C.E.). Decorative topped short borst: Holland. Stomacher. leggings worn under boots. Deco- borstplaat: Holland. Breastplate. rative top edge of sheer white borstrok: Holland. Vest. boot cuff linen trimmed with wide lace was Borte: See Tresse. folded over top of the boot. Worn bortspeld: See broche. by men. boscele: See pestelci. bootee: Boot with short leg. bosom bottles: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Small bootikin: Late Georgian (1750– containers of tin or glass that held small amount of 1790 C.E.). Soft boot of wool and water and single flower. Some were con- oiled silk. Commonly worn as structed with pouches to hold the bottles. cure for gout. bosom flowers: See bosom bottles. bootee boquilha: Portugal. Cigar- or cig- bosom friends: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 arette-holder. C.E.) to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Flannel, wool, or borada crape cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). A cheap fur chest protectors. mourning fabric. bosom shirt: Shirt with starched, plaited, or tucked bosom. 36 bosphore green

bosphore green: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Sea green. bouclé: France. Rough textured, soft used bosses: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Decorative cauls in making sportswear and . worn by women on each side of the head to contain boucle d’oreille: France. Earring. large braids of hair. Often worn with veil. boucle d’oreille à la guillotine: Directoire (1790–1815 Boston net: curtain fabric. C.E.). France. Earring style representing small guil- bota: Czechoslovakia, Portugal, and Spain. Boot. lotine topped with red cap and with decapi- Botany: Trademark name for fabric manufactured by tated crowned head. Botany Mills, Inc. : Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Bustle Botany wool: Australia. Fine merino wool from Botany (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s lace-edged cap worn over Bay. undressed hair. botão: Portugal. Button. bouffant mecanique: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. botas: Wales. Boot. Introduced in 1828, spring reaching from top of corset botchi: Japan. A woman’s hood common in the snowy to outer edge of sleeve to support its extreme size. regions of Niigata. bouffante sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crino- bote: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to Re- line (1840–1865 C.E.). Puffed sleeve. naissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Middle bouffette: France. Ribbon bow or tassel. English word for boot. bouffon: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Introduced in bote cuello: Spain. Boat neckline. 1893, a shade darker than eau de nil. boteh: India. The paisley motif. bouffron: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, a botez: France. Breton for boot. light tan. botforti: Russia. boots. Boug: Germany. Old High German word for bracelet. boti: Norway. Old word for boot. bouillion: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Puffed botina: Portugal. Half-boot. trim popular on women’s garments. botinicos: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Little boots. bouillioné: France. To be shirred or gathered. botoeira: See casa de botão. boukrania: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Cow-shaped botón: Spain. Button. amulet with curved lyre-shaped horns. boton suelto con espiga: Spain. Shirt stud. boulanger: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, botoun: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) bright red. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. boulanger umbrella: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular Middle English word for button. in 1880s, umbrella with sabre hilt shaped handle, botte: France. Man’s boot. named for French general. botte à genouillere: France. . bouleau: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, birch color. bottekin: Small boot. boulevart: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Worn from bottine: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in 1836, 1450 to 1500, unfashionable short hose that covered woman’s beige gored boot with leather tip and elastic only groin and upper thighs. Tied to belt. inserts. Invented for Queen Victoria. See also Jemima. boumwolle: See Kattūn. 2. France. General term referring to woman’s boot. bouquet de corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Cor- bottle-green: Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.) to Crinoline sage worn at waist. (1840–1865 C.E.). Dark blue green, popular from 1800 bouracan: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1867, to 1860. ribbed poplin. bottoni: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Buttons. bourbon cotton: Cotton with extra-long, silky fiber. Used as important decorative detail. Sometimes of bourbon hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Wom- silk or silver or gilt. an’s blue satin hat trimmed with fleur-de-lis of bòtuinn: Ireland. Boot. pearls. Fashionably worn to celebrate return of royal botwm: Wales. Button. family to Paris. boubou: Wodaabe man’s long, loose, sleeveless robe. bourbon lace: Lace made with cording on net ground. Bouc: Germany. Bracelet. bourdalou: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– bouche: Plain weave, undyed, wool or wool and cot- 1660 C.E.) to present. Fine ribbon used ton blend fabric used for shirts by in southern around crown of hat. . bourdon: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Five-foot-long bouchette: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Buckle that pilgrim’s staff with iron spike at bottom to assist in fastened lower part of breastplate to upper part. climbing. Had pierced knob on top that held palm bouchons de carafe: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. branch, the symbol of pilgrims, and unscrewed to Earrings made of diamonds the size of decorative hold relics. bottle stoppers. bourdon lace: Net lace with corded edge. brāislēad 37 bourette: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1877, : Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). twill weave wool fabric with colored blubs. United Kingdom. Trousers. bourette mousse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1877, wo- braccas: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). ven fabric with looped face. United Kingdom. Trousers. See also braccae. bourguignotte: Late Gothic braccialetto: Italy. Bracelet. (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Iron hel- bracco: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). met with cheek pieces and some- Semi-close-fitting leg covering worn over hose; may times nosepiece. be worn with or without cross gartering. bournouse: Crinoline (1840– bracconiere: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Elizabe- 1865 C.E.). Hooded knee-length than (1550–1625 C.E.). Armored hip-length skirt mantle, often fringed. Worn by made of overlapping steel plates. women. Also spelled . bracecloth: See paño berbi. bourguignotte bourré: To be stuffed or wadded. bracelet cuff: Cuff of metal, lace, ribbon, or other mate- bourrelet: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Padded roll, rial, wider than average bracelet. part of woman’s headdress. 2. Late Georgian (1750– bracelet sleeve: Sleeve reaching below elbow. 1790 C.E.). Padded head cap worn by very young to bracelet tie: Ankle strap shoe. protect head from injury. bracelete: Portugal. Bracelet. bourse: France. Purse. bracer: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. bourserie en lisse: France. Type of bag or purse woven A set of complete armor for the arms. on a loom. braces: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. boutis: France. A type of embroidery from Marseilles Suspenders, usually elastic, crossing shoulders and and maritime Provence. used to support trousers. Worn by men. bouton: France. Button. brachiāle: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Bracelet. bouton d’or: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, bracken: Scotland. Type of tartan plaid. golden yellow. braconniere: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Hip-length boutonnage: France. Closing. skirt of steel that hinged on one side and fastened boutonnière: 1. (20th century). Real or artificial flower with buckles on the other. Disappeared from use in worn in of left lapel of man’s coat. 2. armor by 17th century. France. Buttonhole. bractiates: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). bouton-pression: France. Snap . Pins used to fasten garments closed. boutons d’oreille: Small drop earrings. braecce: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). bouwen: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles I United Kingdom. Trousers. (1625–1660 C.E.). Holland. . Braganza: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s bovelna: See medvilnė. velvet carriage mantle with point in front and round bow blouse: Blouse with -bow formed from collar. in back. Trimmed with figured velvet plush and bow shoes: China. Ming dynasty. Worn by women broad lace flounce. with bound feet, shoes with high soles of camphor bragas: Spain. Wide, loose trousers. wood. bragetto: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. . bowler: See derby. bragoenen: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Pad- box cloth: Tightly woven, woolen overcoating pulled ded wheels worn around armseye. and shrunk to resemble felt. Mostly waterproof. bragon braz: Spain. Full trousers. box coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced around bragou: France. Breton for trousers. 1830, straight, loose, beige coat worn by coachmen. bragou-braz: France. Popularized by Breton peasant Sometimes had cape. men, dark blue linen, full cut trousers gathered onto box pleat: Pair of pleats where outer edges face oppo- self-belt and ending in knee cuffs. site directions. bragueta: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Cod- boxers: Men’s undergarments made like shorts. piece. bõ-y: Vietnam. Cotton . braguette: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). 1. France. Ar- boyang: Band worn by laborers around trouser leg be- mor equivalent to codpiece. 2. See brayette. low knee to restrain it. braguilha: Portugal. The fly on a pair of trousers. bozal: Ecuador. A closed double chain stitch. brahón: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Armseye brabant: France. Sturdy linen fabric. trim. bracach: Ireland. Gaelic word for being grayish. braiel: See breech-girdle. bracaille: Ireland. Gaelic word for bracelet. : See bracco. bracan: Ireland. Gaelic word for glove. brāislēad: Ireland. Bracelet. 38 bràist

bràist: Ireland. 1. Brooch. 2. Bracelet. brazowy: Poland. Brown. bràisteachan: Ireland. Little brooch. breaban-deiridh: Ireland. Gaelic word for heel-piece braistich: Ireland. Gaelic word for brooch. for a shoe. brakan: See breakan. breaban-toisich: Ireland. Gaelic word for the fore-sole branc: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Woman’s smock. of a shoe. branched velvet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fig- breacán: See breakan. ured velvet. breacan-feile: Scotland. Traditional , brandenbourgs: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crino- piece of tartan, usually two yards wide and four to line (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular from 1836 to 1849, a six feet long, doubled, wrapped around waist, belted, number of cords and tassels used to trim women’s and drawn up over head. clothing in military style. breacan-guaille: Scotland. The plaid. Brandenburg: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Romantic breac-liath: Ireland. Gaelic word for being grayish. (1815–1840 C.E.). Man’s loose-fitting overcoat. breadeen: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Ireland. Home- Brandenburg fringe: Directoire and First Empire (1790– spun fabric. 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1812, twisted silk fringe. breakan: Ireland. Woolen fabric. brandestoc: United Kingdom. Walking stick with a hid- breast hook: See stay hook. den sword. breast knot: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Roman- brandistocchi: Italy. Walking stick with a hidden sword. tic (1815–1840 C.E.). Small bow of colored ribbon brangenybé: Lithuania. Jewel. worn on bosom of woman’s dress. brangus akmuo: See brangenybé. breathnas: Ireland. Gaelic for the tongue of a buckle. brannamh: Ireland. Gaelic word for coat of mail. brec: See broc. branquidão: Portugal. White color. brēc: United Kingdom. Old English word for trousers. Branscombe point: A form of . brech: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) bransoletka: Poland. Bracelet. See also naramiennik. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. braoig: France. Breton for jewel. Middle English word for trousers. -fhalt: Ireland. Gaelic word for head hair. brec-hraegl: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 bras-ghruag: Ireland. Gaelic word for curled hair. C.E.). United Kingdom. Trousers. braslet’: Russia. Bracelet. brede: Obsolete term for braid or embroidery. brassard: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Armor for bredon: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Fabric arm. 2. Black or white armband worn for mourning. pieces which hung from backs of armseye, perhaps 3. White ribbon worn on arm of first communicants the waist. in Roman . bredzon: Switzerland. Man’s thick twill smock with brasserole: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Restora- short, puffed sleeves. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Young girl’s camisole. 2. Eliza- breeches: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Leg coverings bethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s quilted jacket. made in one piece, either cut from fabric or knitted. brassière: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Small breech-girdle: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Running bolero-like garment of black silk or velvet that was string that drew in pair of breeches at waist. worn by women under robe. breichled: Wales. Bracelet. brat: Ireland. Worn by both sexes, a large, semi-circular, brēid: See ēadach. woolen mantle. bréid: Ireland. Married woman’s square linen head brăţară: Romania. Bracelet. kerchief that is fastened with silk cords or metal pins. brat-dhearg: Ireland. Gaelic word for being red veiled bréid geal: Ireland. White headdress. or covered in red. bréid-bronn: Ireland. Apron. bratt: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). bréidín: See breadeen. United Kingdom. Cloak. bréid-uchd: Ireland. 1. Stomacher. 2. Bib. braun: Germany. Brown. brēit: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for cloth. brayer: See breech-girdle. breitschwantz: France and Spain. Broadtail fur. brayes: Ireland. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Drawers. Breitschwantz: 1. Hides from the naturally aborted fe- brayette: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Armored tuses of the karakul lamb (Ovis aries platyura). 2. Ger- skirt of overlapping bands. 2. Steel petticoat, similar many. Broadtail fur. to a baguette. breloque: Ornament which hangs from man’s watch brazalete: Spain. Bracelet. chain. Brazilian corded sarcenet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). breost-lin: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Introduced in 1820, colored sarcenet with thick, United Kingdom. Linen band to bind breast or wrap white cotton cord running through it. for corpse. brochette 39 breost-rocc: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 brin: 1. Stout linen fabric. 2. One of sticks in a fan. C.E.). United Kingdom. Garment covering the chest. brinco: Portugal. Earring; pendant. bretelle: Decorative suspender, common in European briolette: Pear- or oval-shaped stone. national peasant dress styles. briosaid: Ireland. Gaelic word for a belt or girdle. bretenne lace: See Bretonne lace. brissimi: Greece. Dark red or purple silk. brethyn: Wales. Cloth. brīste: Ireland. Trousers. breton: Woman’s hat style based on Brittany peasant Bristol red: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Red fabric. hat with flat crown and rolled back brim. : (1940–1950 C.E.). United Kingdom. Short Bretonne lace: Thick colored-thread embroidery on net coat of thick blue wool that closed with wooden ground. It is used to trim , dress accessories toggles and cloth loops. Originally naval surplus. Of- and fancy . ficially called “duffer” and later called “duffle coat.” breug-chiabh: Ireland. Gaelic word for a wig or peruke. Brittany: France. Cotton or cotton and linen blend fabric. brewer’s cap: Knitted stocking cap. Brittany cloth: See Brittany. brezarau: Romania. Twisted hemp cord used as draw- Brittany work: France. Embroidery of Breton peasant. string on women’s smocks. brîu: Romania. A 10 to 35 cm wide, 3 to 4 m long woolen brezekouki: Greece. A woman’s deep red silk belt. sash worn by men and women. brezikúci: Greece. Red silk bridal belt. briuki-dudochki: (1960–1970 C.E.). Russia. Straight- brial: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Dress. legged pants. brichette: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Armor for loins brium: Ireland. Gaelic word for helmet. and hips. brk: Bosnia. Moustache. bridal lace: Type of lace. : Tightly woven, plain weave cotton fabric. bride: 1. Loop, bar, or tie in needlework. 2. Slender broadtail lamb: Fragile fur with a moiré-like surface. thread connecting parts of design in lace. 3. Bonnet Usually black in color. string. broc: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). bride lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Blue ribbon United Kingdom. Men’s short trousers. By 13th cen- tied around rosemary and given as wedding favor. tury, also applied to woman’s garment. The plural is Commonly worn on hats of wedding guests. brec. 2. Ireland. Gaelic word for gray. brides: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. brōc: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for trousers. Wide ribbon ties on women’s bonnets. brocade: Rich, elegant fabric decorated with embroi- bridgwater: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Broadcloth. dery or fabric in a jacquard weave. -: An elbow-length gauntlet worn on the brocado: Spain. Brocade. left hand. brocado raso de pelo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). : 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Armored Spain. Brocaded satin velvet. corset of overlapping metal plates sewn between brocantine: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Introduced layers of canvas. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Vel- in 1898, fine wool fabric brocaded with silk. vet jacket lined with canvas and small overlapping brocart: France. Brocade. plates of steel. brocatel: Spain. . Brighton nap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 brocatelle: 1. Small patterned brocade. 2. Directoire C.E.). Wool fabric with on face. and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Italy. Gold or silk bril: Holland. Spectacles. brocade fabric. brilhante: Portugal. Diamond. brocatine: Fabric with raised patterns woven to imitate brillantes: Bolivia. Chemical aniline . embroidery. brillianette: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Glazed brocato: Spain. Brocade. wool fabric in stripes and flowers. See also calamanco. broccato: Italy. Brocade. brilliante: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1851, fabric broche: 1. Holland. Brooch. 2. France. Spindle. 3. Silk or like jaconet with tiny raised figures. 2. Ecuador. Clear cotton fabric with a satin pattern. plastic bead. broché: To be woven with a raised figure or to be em- : Lustrous, plain or twill weave cotton and bossed. mohair blend fabric used for jacket linings. broché shawl: Paisley shawl woven in different colored brilliants: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in strips. 1863, silk fabric with white ground patterned in broché silk serge: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, soft, damask. thick, twilled silk with black background and colored brim: Palestine. Cotton or cotton and linen blend fabric, figures. undyed or dyed blue. brochetta: See fermaglio. brim caqui: Portugal. Khaki. brochette: France. Small brooch. 40 brodé

brodé: France. Embroidered. bronnach: Ireland. Gaelic word for belt or girdle. brodekin: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- bronze: Dark brown color with tint of green. dom. Man’s calf-high boot. broom skirt: Full skirt given wavy plait by drying brodequin: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular in around handle of broom. 1830s, women’s boots of velvet or satin that were broszka: Poland. Brooch. trimmed with fringe around upper edge. 2. France. brown Holland: Unbleached or partially bleached linen Child’s boot. fabric. broderie: France. Embroidery. brown linen: Unbleached linen. : 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Gay brown sheeting: Unbleached sheeting. Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Bold embroidery of differ- broz: France. Breton for skirt. ent shaped eyelets arranged to form a pattern. Used brucag: Ireland. Gaelic word for eyelet. on women’s and children’s clothing and accessories. Bruch: Germany. Old High German word for trousers. 2. (1910–1920 C.E.). Openwork embroidery on cam- brud: Norway. Woman’s bridal . bric or linen. 3. (1920–1930 C.E.). Cheruit design gown : Belgium. Bobbin lace similar to guipure tape. with lampshade sleeves, crepe underskirt trimmed bruin: Holland. Brown. with chiffon overpanels. bruinneadach: Ireland. Gaelic word for apron. broderie en blanc: France. Household linen embroidery. bruki: Russia. Breeches. broderie en jais: France. Embroidery in which glass cy- brumánika: Greece. Pleated . lindrical beads are inserted on the embroidery yarn. brummaggem: United Kingdom. Costume jewelry : Literally “,” an ap- made in Birmingham. plique cut from a printed fabric picture. Brummel: (1920–1930 C.E.). United Kingdom. A dandy. broek: Holland. Trousers. Brummel bodice: Directoire and First Empire (1790– brœkr: Norway. Old word for trousers. 1815 C.E.) to Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Man’s corset broekrok: Holland. . worn in imitation of Beau Brummel. broella: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Rough fabric brun: France. Brown. worn by peasants and monks. brunatny: See brazowy. brōg: Ireland. Shoe. brune: France. Brunette. brogan tionndaidh: Scotland. Ghillie-style shoe. brunete: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Wool fabric brogans: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Shoes with dyed and used for tunics and stockings. wooden or thick leather soles that were pegged to bruno: Italy. Brown. a sturdy leather upper. They were often studded at : Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Germany. the toe with brass tacks. Woman’s fitted riding coat. bròg-bhréid: Ireland. Sandal. Brunswick cloth: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Ger- bròg-chalpach: Ireland. Boot. many. Linen fabric. brogetie: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Coarse brocade. Bruoch: Germany. Trousers. bròg-fhiodha: Ireland. . bruschino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Dark red. broglio-broglio: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Camlet. brushed rayon: Napped rayon fabric. brogs: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Ireland. Men’s brushed wool: Knit fabric with a nap. Usually contains long breeches. mohair. brogues: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Scotland. Rough Brussels bobbin lace: A fine grounded with shoes of undressed leather. drochel net. broigne: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Brussels camlet: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Poplin France. Long tunic of skin or canvas with metal rings used for riding habits. sewn on it. Worn by cavalrymen as form of defensive Brussels edging: Lace formed by series of buttonhole armor. stitches, leaving small loop on surface. broith: Ireland. Gaelic word for carnation color. Brussels ground: Six sided mesh for lace. broithdheanta: Ireland. Gaelic word for flesh colored. : Belgium. Any lace made in Brussels. broiudneireachd: Ireland. Gaelic word for embroidery. Brussels needle lace: A flat tape lace made with very brok: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). fine thread. Ireland. Hose or . 2. Macedonia. Madder used Brussels net: A machine-made net. as a dye. Brussels point: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Lace with brokaat: Holland. Brocade. pattern of sprigs. Brokat: Germany. Brocade. Brussels wire-ground: Silk mesh for lace. brolly: United Kingdom. Slang for umbrella. brustfleck: Austria. Man’s vest without front opening. bròn: Ireland. Mourning dress. Strings cross in back and tie in front. bulgara cira 41

Brustharnisch: Germany. Cuirasse. buff: 1. Light, brownish yellow. 2. Buffalo skin. 3. Coat bruststück: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. of buff leather. Breastplate. buff jerkin: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration brusttuch: Poland. Jewish woman’s ornamented plastron. (1660–1700 C.E.). Military jacket of leather or hide. Brutus cut: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 buffalo cloth: Heavy, twilled fabric with long nap. C.E.). Man’s hairstyle with hair combed forward over Used to make wool lap robes. forehead, long sideburns, and hair reaching over top buffin: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration of collar. (1660–1700 C.E.). Form of camlet. Brutus head wig: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 buffon: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular in the C.E.). Man’s cropped wig with disheveled appearance. 1780s, a large, often starched handkerchief, worn bryczesy: Poland. Breeches. bunched in the center front of a gown. bù: China. Fabric. buffonts: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Directoire buac: Ireland. Gaelic word for unbleached linen. and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Gauze scarf worn buaicean: Ireland. Gaelic word for veil. to fill in neckline of décolleté gown. Worn puffed out buatais: Ireland. Boot. in “pouter pigeon” line. buba: . 1. Overblouse with set-in sleeves, bufle: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Coat of buff leather. straight sides, and straight, elbow-length sleeves. 2. bughma: Turkey. necklace. Yoruba man’s narrow, tunic-like skirt. bughmeh: Palestine. Choker necklace. bùbó: China. Cotton and silk fabric. bugis: United Kingdom. Colored fabrics woven with bubou: Romania. Fleece coat. border on only one side and made for export. bubu: Africa. An oversized shirt. bugle: Tube-shaped ornament. bubúces: Greece. Embroidery on the hem of the chemise. buhl: Form of elaborate decoration using tortoiseshell, bucaran: Spain. Buckram. ivory, and colored metals. buchai: Borneo. Fringe. búi tó: Vietnam. Bun; chignon. Buchanan: (1920–1930 C.E.). United States of America. búi tóc: See búi tó. In 1924, a dandy. Named for the English stage star, bui-bui: 1. Madagascar. Moroni woman’s wide black Jack Buchanan. robe. 2. Swahili. Woman’s hooded black cloak. bucket-top boot: Charles I and the Commonwealth buidhe: Ireland. Gaelic word for yellow colored or (1625–1660 C.E.). Boots that are golden colored. very wide at top. Often boot top buidhe-bhan: Ireland. Gaelic word for buff colored. is folded over to form a large cuff. buidhe-dhonn: Ireland. Gaelic colored auburn colored. Worn by men. buidhe-ruadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for bay colored. Buckingham lace: Common lace, buidhe-shoilleir: Ireland. Gaelic word for amber col- similar to Alencon. ored. Buckinghamshire lace: Renais- buidh-liath: Ireland. Gaelic word for pale yellow col- bucket-top boot sance (1450–1550 C.E.) to present. ored. Fine bobbin lace with simple design. builg: See balg. buckled wig: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Man’s buill: See ball. wig with tight curls (buckles) worn above ears. buis: Holland. Jacket. See also rok. During the Elizabe- buckler: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration than era in English-speaking countries, it was called (1660–1700 C.E.). Small shield of metal or wood with the jerkin. metal spike in center and strap across back. bujka: Hungary. Blue cloth jacket. buckram: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to present. Coarse bukhani: India. A scarf or sash worn by bridegrooms in open weave linen or cotton fabric sized with glue. Used Kutch and Saurashtra. for bombasting, shaping garments and hats. bukser: Denmark. Trousers. bucksain: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s padded bukskin: Holland. cloth. greatcoat with wide sleeves. bul: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United buckskin: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Kingdom. Early in 11th century, woman’s ornament 1. Popular name for tan leather riding gaiter. 2. Fine, or brooch. stretchy leather. bulavka: Russia. Pin. Buddun khas: India. A muslin. bulbulchasm: India. Heavy silk with nightingale eye- budge: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Lambskin worn shaped embroidery. with wool on outside. búles: Greece. Embroidery for the everyday chemise. bufanda: 1. Spain. Muffler; scarf. 2. Ecuador. A warp- bulgar: India. Russian leather. resistant patterned scarf. bulgara cira: India. A silk or velvet from Bulgaria. 42 bulgare pleat bulgare pleat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- burano lace: Italy. Needlepoint lace on a square mesh. dom. Introduced in 1875, double box pleat on wom- : Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Handwoven can- en’s skirts that was narrower at waist than at hem. vas with needlepoint pattern worked on top. Held in place with elastic strips on inside. buratto lace: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to present. Bulgarian cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- Italy. . dom. Introduced in 1883, cream colored satin with burausu: Japan. A blouse. silver and colored threads worked into it. burberry cloth: Waterproof cloth. Bulgarian embroidery: Brightly colored embroidery on burchanka: See koshoulya. coarse linen. burchena riza: Bulgaria. Smock gathered to neck and bulger: See bulgar. with triangular shoulder gores. bulgha: Egypt and United Arab Emirates. Soft, yellow burdash: See berdash. leather slippers favored by peasants. burdeos: Spain. Claret. bulghar: See bulgar. bure: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1874, coarse bulla: Greek. Locket with charm inside. Given to child wool fabric with wide diagonal rib. 2. France. . at nine days of age and worn by girls until marriage bureau: Coarse heavy fabric. and by boys until manhood (age 16). burel: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coarse dark red bulldog toe: (20th century). Shoe toe that is rounded wool fabric. and blunt. burga: United Arab Emirates. Woman’s full face veil. bullet-hole lace: A patterned machine lace with rows of burganet: See bourguignotte. large, round holes. : See bourguignotte. bullgarry: See bulgar. burgoyne: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, shade of bullion embroidery: Embroidery done with gold wires. plum brown. bullion hose: See French hose. burgundy: Bluish red color. bullion lace: Heavy lace made with gold or silver burial blanket: United States of America. Southwestern threads. blanket with figures woven in black or another som- bull’s head fringe: Charles I and the Commonwealth ber color on a white ground. (1625–1660 C.E.). Woman’s hairstyle with large fore- burian: See bureau. head curls. buridan: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1836, horizon- bullycock: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Type of bowler. tally striped silk. búloma: Greece. Red, turban-like kerchief worn on the buriel: Peru. Undyed, demi-colored wool. face by a bride. buriti: Leaf of Brazilian palm used to make straw hats. bumbac: Romania. Cotton. burka: 1. Enveloping garment worn by Mohammedan bum-barrel: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- women covering them from head to toe with eye- dom. Padded roll used to extend hipline. holes or strips of lace for eyes. 2. Caucasus. Thick, bum-freezer: (1920–1930 C.E.). United Kingdom. Term trapezoidal cloak or sheepskin or astrakhan that referring to the shorter lengths of men’s coats. doubles as tent. bumper: Netherlands. Silk cap with thick roll of black burlap: Coarse, heavy, plain weave jute, hemp, or cot- yarn covering top and sides of head. Provides protec- ton fabric. See also . tion for delicate of small child. burlet: Coif or hood. bunda: Hungary. Long, sleeveless, embroidered sheep- burnet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). 1. Light brown skin coat or cloak lined with fur. Made from 3-1/2 to fabric. 2. Dark brown. 15 skins. burnley: United Kingdom. Gray cotton fabric. bundi: India. Man’s . burnous: 1. See bournouse. 2. United Arab Emirates. bunga bau: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja light yellow bead. Hooded mantle. buningr: See klœði. burnouse: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Cloak in bunny suit: Fitted, footed, one-piece . imitation of Moorish mantle. buntal: Fine, white straw fiber. burnsides: Side whiskers so named for General A. E. bunte Sportjacke: Germany. Blazer. Burnside. See also sideburns. buntes Kopftuch: Germany. Bandanna. buros: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s cloak with bunting: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1881, attached cape. coarse form of ’s cloth. 2. Colored cotton fabric : Egypt. Face veil. similar to . burqah: Afghanistan. Woman’s dark cloak. bur’a’: Egypt. Face veil of crocheted silk yarn. burqo: Palestine. Woman’s harness-like face veil. burak: 1. Borneo. White. 2. Palestine. Plain white cotton burqu: Turkey. Woman’s face veil. used for underdresses. burqu’: United Arab Emirates. Woman’s face veil. byrrus 43 burrah: Striped, plain weave, cotton fabric worn by butcher boy blouse: Loose smock-like blouse. African natives. butcher’s linen: Rough linen used for butcher’s burrail collar: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular and jackets. in 1832, man’s greatcoat collar that could be worn buti: India. A textile pattern of a small floral cone. standing or flat. butter cloth: See cheesecloth. bursa: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Purse. butterfly bow sleeve: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). buruncek: Turkey. Blouse. United Kingdom. In 1895, a woman’s evening sleeve burunduki: Fur of Siberian chipmunk. with deep pleats that were suggestive of wings. burung hook: Java. The phoenix symbol. butterfly bun: China. Woman’s hairstyle. burzighino: Sardinia. White linen trousers worn gath- butterfly cap: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular ered into black gaiters or leggings. in 1750s and 1760s, woman’s small lace cap that was busby: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Tall fur shako. wired in shape of butterfly. Worn on top of head. busc: See busk. butterfly headdress: Late Gothic bush hat: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of America. A (1350–1450 C.E.). Worn over soft Army hat with a round crown and a wide brim. tall ; made of semitrans- bush jacket: See . parent linen and draped and busht: Palestine. A black and white or red and white wired to resemble butterfly. striped woolen fabric used for men’s . butternut: Homespun, twill weave, busk: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Stiff piece of wood, cotton fabric and dyed brown metal, or whalebone set in stomacher to help give flat with dye from butternut tree. butterfly headdress fronted look of period in women’s garments. buttery cotton: Cotton fabric busk point: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Lacing to creamy or light brown in color. hold busk in place. butti: India. The flower design used in textiles. buske: See busk. button: Small solid object with eye at base or two eyes : 1. See brodekin. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 through object used as decoration or fastening. C.E.). Short, loose stocking of expensive fabric worn butung: Philippine Islands. Man’s pouch-like cloth bag by . 3. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 worn hung from the belt. C.E.). Calf-high, laced boot based on the style of the buty turystyczne: Poland. Walking boots. cothurnes. buzáña: Greece. Embroidery on the siguni. busq: See busk. buzu: Iran. Handwoven wool fabric. busque: See busk. buzunar: Romania. A purse. busserull: Norway. Man’s workshirt. bwoom: Zaire. Helmet-style mask. bust bodice: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). White byal ruchenik: Bulgaria. White kerchief worn over cher- breast support worn above corset. Laced in ven ruchenik by bride for first 40 days of marriage. front and back. byala houta: Bulgaria. Second apron worn over pri- bust forms: (1930–1940 C.E.). Molded foam rubber pads mary apron. worn in brassiere to firm up small bosom. byatilha: See betteela. bust improver: See bust forms. bycocket: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Elizabethan bustehouder: Holland. Brassiere. (1550–1625 C.E.). High crowned, wide brimmed hat Buster Brown collar: (1900–1910 with point in center front or back. C.E.). United States of Amer- bycoket: See bycocket. bust improver ica. Wide, round, starched col- byramee: See beiramee. Dover Publications lar usually worn with Windsor byrampaut: See beiramee. tie. Named for Buster byrams: See beiramee. Brown. byramy: See beiramee. Buster Brown suit: (1910–1920 C.E.). United States of : (20th century). Lightweight, strong, water America. Boy’s suit consisting of double breasted repellant, wind resistant cotton fabric designed to tunic-shirt with stiff, detachable, white Peter Pan col- replace fur parka on polar expeditions of Richard E. lar, large , and short bloomer trousers. Byrd. bustian: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Coarse fabric. byrnie: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coat of chain or : Strapless, waist-length, long-line bra. Fre- linked mail. quently closes in front. Byron collar: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Unstarched bústos: Greece. A kind of vest. collar left open at throat. Often combined with but: Poland. Boot. loosely tied scarf. buta: India. A textile pattern of a large floral cone. byrrus: See birrus. 44 byssine byssine: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fine fabric. byzantine embroidery: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to byssus: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Yellowish flax used Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Appliqué work combined to create linen for mummy wrappings. with heavy stitches. byxor: Sweden. Trousers. byzantine granité: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced byzantine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in in 1869, dark brown wool fabric with a few gold 1881, dull, semitransparent silk and wool blend threads woven into it. fabric. bzima: Berber pin or fibula. C

cabaan: United Ara b Emirates. White fabric scarf. cabriole: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular from cabachon: Decorative trim of ribbon that has been 1755 to 1757, carriage-shaped ornament worn in hair. pleated or twisted and then mounted on button or cabriolet: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). piece of cardboard. Carriage-shaped hat with silk trimmings. caballeras postizas: Spain. False hair. cabrito: Spain. Dankal goat. caballeros: Fine Spanish wool popular in United Kingdom. cabron: France. Kid leather. caban: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to present. Wide çabut: Turkmenistan. Woman’s short-sleeved coat. sleeved coat that is not sewn on sides. Worn belted. cacci: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Shoe made with sepa- 2. France. . rate top and sole. Laced over instep and tied around cabaset: See cabasset. ankle. When worn by patricians, they were leather and cabasset: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Round, high encrusted with gold or silver ornaments and pearls. crowned, narrow brimmed steel helmet. caceres: Spain. Medium quality wool. çabat: Persia. . cache corset: Camisole. cabbage: United Kingdom. Tailor’s clippings. cachecol: Portugal. ; stole. cabbage shoestring: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to cache-folies: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s large shoe rose. C.E.). France. Small wigs worn by women to hide cabbage-ruff: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Large ruff cropped hair popularized during Revolution. in soft folds. cachelaid: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 cabeca: East Indies. Fine silk. C.E.). France. Literally “hide-ugly,” small black vel- cabeleira: Portugal. Wig. vet masks. cabeleira postiça: See peruca. cachemira: See cahemir. cabeleirerio: Portugal. Hairdresser; wigmaker. cachemire: 1. France. Cashmere. 2. Bustle (1865–1890 cabesa: Spain. Raw wool from Estramadura. C.E.). Introduced in 1876, fine wool and silk fabric cabestrillo: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Thick with Eastern patterns. gold chain worn draped over one shoulder and un- cachemire de soie: Fine twilled silk fabric with der opposite shoulder. cashmere-like finish. cabin boy breeches: (20th century). Short, snug knee cachemire marguerite: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Italy. In pants that laced at knee. 1883, medium-weight durable silk made in . cable cord: Soft, twisted cotton cord used for pipings, cachemire royal: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in shirrings, etc. See also constitution cord. 1889, fabric resembling cashmere with silk back. cable knit: Knit with heavy cord in raised loped stripe. cache-peigne: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– cable net: Heavy cotton yarn net with large mesh. Used 1890 C.E.). France. Popular from 1850 to 1967, head- for curtains and draperies. dress of net and ribbon that held hair in back of head. cabos: See clavos. cachimira: Ecuador. Fine wool. cabot: Gray, plain weave, cotton webbing. cachou: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Dead leaf brown. cabra de China: Spain. Chinese goat. caciula: Romania. Red felt fez. cabretta leather: Skin of cabretta, hairy sheep; used in cack: Infant’s shoe with soft leather sole and no heel. gloves and shoes. cactli: Mexico. Aztec sandals.

45 46 cadach

cadach: Wales. Handkerchief. (1660–1700 C.E.). A rich silk fabric. cadadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for a tartan or a fabric caffoy: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- used to make hose. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Fabric similar to damask. cadanette: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– caftan: Loose coat-like robe with very long sleeves worn 1660 C.E.). Lovelock worn over one shoulder and tied around waist. Usually of silk and cotton blend. tied with ribbon or string. Worn by both genders. cage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 cādar: India. Veil. C.E.). United Kingdom. Nickname for artificial crino- cadās: See canach. line; petticoat with whalebone hoops, wire, or watch- caddice: See caddis leather. string. caddice : Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- cage Americaine: Crinoline than (1550–1625 C.E.). Servant’s garter of rough silk. (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Pet- caddie: . ticoat in which only bottom caddis leather: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restora- half was covered with fabric, tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Leather from Cadis. upper half only boning. caddow: Ireland. Woolen mantle. cage empire: Crinoline (1840– caddy: See caddie. 1865 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 cadena: See puntada limeña. C.E.). Popular from 1861 to cadenat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). 1869, slightly trained petticoat Piece of jewelry intended to hold hair. made of 30 steel hoops that cadeneta: Guatemala and Mexico. Machine-made chain increased in size as they ap- stitch. proached the ground. cage cadenette: See cadanette. : 1. Byzantine and Roman- See also photospread cadenilla: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. A stitch esque (400–1200 C.E.). Hooded, (Undergarments). like the chain stitch. semicircular cape of cloth or fur. Worn by peasants. caderas postizas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. 2. France. Balaclava. Padded false hips. cahemir: Spain. Cashmere. cadet blue: Dark grayish blue color. cahouk: Egypt. A red, yellow, or green, low, cylindrical, cadet cloth: Sturdy bluish gray, blue, gray, or indigo shako-like hat. and white fabric used for uniforms in boys’ military cái: Vietnam. Parasol. schools, like West Point. Heavyweight and durable. cai-ao: Annam. Long chemise with long, fitted sleeves. cadet gray: Grayed blue color. caichóu: China. Colored silk fabric. cadet jacket: See . caicmhe: Ireland. Gaelic word for a neck ornament. cadge: To bind edge of garment. caille: Ireland. Gaelic word for a hood, veil, or a cowl. cadogan: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s wig caillouté: France. Pebbled. with wide, flat braid that was folded up on itself cailmhion: Ireland. Gaelic word for light helmet. and then tied. Named for first Earl of Cadogan cailmleid: Ireland. Gaelic word for camlet. (1674–1726). caimmse: See lēne. cadows: See caddow. càin: Ireland. White. čadu: Ethiopia. Dime girl’s pubic covering made of cainb: Ireland. Gaelic word for sackcloth. ivory cylinders engraved with black dots and held by cainb-aodach: Ireland. Gaelic word for canvas. a leather belt to the waist. cainsil: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). caefing: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Very fine fabric of simple weave. United Kingdom. Hairpin or head ornament for caipīn: Ireland. Cap. women. càiqing: China. Dark grayish green color. caeles: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). caiquan: Annam. Long trousers; white for men, black United Kingdom. . for women. caen: France. Woolen serge. cairel: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Passemen- caeppe: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). terie. United Kingdom. Cap, hood, or hooded cloak. Pos- cairtidh: Ireland. Gaelic word for bark colored. sibly only for ecclesiastical use. caisbheart: Ireland. Gaelic word for . cafe: Spain. Brown. cais-chiabh: Ireland. Gaelic word for curl or ringlet. cafe au lait: Light, creamy brown color. caisean-feusaig: Ireland. Gaelic word for moustache. cafe claro amarillento: Spain. Tan. caisreag: Ireland. Gaelic word for curl or ringlet. cafe rojizo: Spain. Sorrel color. caissia: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Headdress; style un- caffa: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration known. calque 47 caita: Romania. Thin cloth cap. calceus patricius: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Low shoe caite: Guatemala. Sandal with leather back and wood with straps that laced up leg. Worn only by senators. or hide sole. The sandal is held in calcheña llijlla: Bolivia. Llijlla with black bands. place with leather . caldron: Reddish copper or brown color. cake hat: Gay Nineties (1890– cale: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Bag, often of black 1900 C.E.). Man’s soft felt, low- velvet, worn in combination with gabled headdress crowned hat similar to alpine hat. or French hood to conceal hair. cakresvari: India. Silk from calêche: France. Hood. Chakrabari. caleçons: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 caite caksire: See hlace. C.E.). Spain, France. Drawers. 2. Elizabethan (1550– See also photospread calaber: Early Gothic (1200–1350 1625 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Men’s (Foot and Legwear). C.E.) to Late Gothic (1350–1450 linen drawers. 3. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Res- C.E.). Fur of gray squirrel. toration (1660–1700 C.E.). Women’s riding garment. calais val: Heavy version of Valenciennes lace. Caledonian cap: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular in calamanco: Satin weave wool fabric that is plain, 1817, woman’s small close-fitting cap trimmed with striped, or checked. See also brillianette. black feathers. calamatta: Italy. Ungummed silk. Caledonian brown: Dull reddish yellow. calamistrum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Curling Caledonian silk: Directoire and First Empire (1790– iron. 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1810, fabric similar to pop- calanaka: See candataka. lin but with silkier surface. calani: See candataka. : A mechanical process for fabrics calanika: India. An antariya worn in between the legs that produces a surface effect, such as glazing. and then wrapped around the hips. : Strong, supple leather. calash: Late Georgian (1750–1790 calibri: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1868, shot velvet. C.E.). Woman’s hat made to cover calico: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to present. Plain wigs with top that folded back weave, lightweight, printed cotton fabric originally like the top of carriage. Hoops imported from India. were made of or whalebone. calicó: Portugal. Calico. calasiris: Egyptian (4000–30 calico china button: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United B.C.E.). Semitransparent tunic States of America. Early mass produced buttons de- worn with knotted belt. signed to coordinate with China calico fabrics. calata: Late Gothic (1350–1450 California: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Intense C.E.). Italy. Closed helmet that yellow color. Originally called bouton d’or. calash hid the face. Californian embroidery: Pre-Spanish embroidery done calavia: India. An extremely light stuff. with animal cords and fishbone needles. calbhthas: Ireland. Gaelic word for half boot or bulskin. caliga: 1. Roman (753 calc: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Enclosed United Kingdom. Man’s simple sandal. shoe with thick nailed sole calçado: See sapata. worn by soldiers and cen- calção: Portugal. Pantaloons. turions. 2. Stocking worn calção de banho: Portugal. Bathing trunks. by . calção de montaria: Portugal. Riding breeches. caligula: See caliga. calcarapedes: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1860s, calimanco: Elizabethan (1550– men’s rubber . 1625 C.E.). Glazed fabric. calças: Portugal. Trousers. call: Ireland. Gaelic word calças de couro: Portugal. Buckskins. for veil. caliga calce: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Long tight stock- callaid: Ireland. Gaelic word See also photospread ings with gusset in back to add movement. for a cap or a wig. (Foot and Legwear). calceolus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Light form of calmuc: Loose, twill weave woolen fabric with nap. calceus for women. calotte: Plain skull-cap often having tab on center top. calcetería: Spain. Hosiery. In China, worn by men. Married men have red tab calcetin: Spain. Hose. and wear white tab when in mourning. calcetines: Spain. Long socks. calpac: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to present. Rus- calceus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Shoe or half-boot sian Cossack officer’s high astrakhan cap. reaching up to calf. calque: France. Pricked paper pattern used for tracing. 48 calton

calton: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration camargo: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Panniered jacket (1660–1700 C.E.). Coarse fabric similar to . worn over waistcoat. Named for Marie Camargo, calum labrada: Ecuador and Guatemala. Decorated or French dancer of 18th century. embroidered fabric, possibly calico. camargo hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced calva: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Skull or in 1836, woman’s small evening hat with brim that bowl of helmet. reached up in front. calypso chemise: Directoire and First Empire (1790– camargo puff: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1815 C.E.). Popular in 1790s, a woman’s colored mus- 1868, woman’s puff skirt formed by looping up back lin, round gown worn with loose over robe. of overskirt on pannier dress. calyptra: Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). Headdress of em- cămaşă: Romania. Shirt. peror in shape of polygon. : Former cap of pope; ermine-trimmed, red calza: Italy. Short breeches. velvet cap. calzado: Spain. Footwear. See also zapato. camayeux silk: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced calzamaglia: Italy. . in 1850, colored chiné silk. calzas conpies: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. cambaia: See comboy. Footed hose. cambali: See kambala. calzas enteras: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. câm-bào: Vietnam. Brocade robe. Long hose. cambay: See comboy. calzas largas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. cambaye: India. Lightweight cotton fabric. Long hose. cambelloto: Renaissance. Wool fabric originally made calzatura: Italy. Shoe. of camel or goat hair. calzaz de aguja: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. cambja: See comboy. Knit hose. cambolim: India and Portugal. Cloak. calzettoni: Italy. Long socks. camboy: See comboy. calzón: Ecuador, Guatemala, and Mexico. Men’s full- cambraia: Italy and Portugal. Cambric. length, full-cut trousers. cambray: Spain. Chambray. calzón bombacho: Spain. . cambray liso: Spain. Cambric. calzoncillo: Mexico. 1. Pair of trousers traditionally cambresine: 1. France. Good quality linen and cotton made of homespun. Cut varies widely in different fabrics that are finished to resemble linen. 2. Early regions. 2. Women’s long drawers. Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. Made in , calzoneras: Mexico. Trousers that button on each side. France; fine linen. calzoni: Italy. Breeches. cambric: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Manu- camaca: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic factured in Cambrai, France, thin fine linen used for (1350–1450 C.E.). Rich, heavy, silk or silk and cotton ruffs, collars, shirts, and handkerchiefs. 2. Light- blend fabric. Often figured. weight glazed cotton fabric. camacaa: See kamkhab. cambridge coat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 20th century. camada: See casaco. Introduced in 1870, man’s single- or double-breasted camafeu: Portugal. Cameo. lounge coat with center back vent with four patch camag: Ireland. Gaelic word for curl or ringlet. pockets. By 1880, single-breasted reefer. camaieu: France. Brooch; cameo. cambridge : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- camail: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Chain-mail duced in 1855, man’s large, full-length overcoat with hood. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in wide sleeves and wide turned back cuffs. Wide lapels 1842, woman’s waist-length or calf-length cloak reached to hem. with armseyes and small falling collar. Lined with câm-châu: Vietnam. . silk in summer or cashmere, satin, or velvet in camee: Holland. Cameo. winter. camel: Medium light brown color. camalag: Ireland. Gaelic word for curl or ringlet. caméléon: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular camall: See kambala. around 1859, woman’s boot with upper having small camara: Czechoslovakia. Man’s tailed jacket with low ornamental holes to reveal stockings. 2. Crinoline standing collar, decorative braid clasps, and black (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1840s, silk shot in silk buttons. three colors. By 1850, it was called shot poplin. cámara: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Ward- cameleon antique: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In- robe. troduced in 1892, a silk with changeable effect. camarera mayor: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. cameleurion: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Hemispher- Empress’s mistress. ical crown worn by Caesars. canache 49 camelin: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fabric of camel jacket or jersey. 4. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). or goat hair. France. Waistcoat. cameline: See camelin. camisole neckline: Straight horizontal neckline with camelite: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, reddish plum. shoulder straps. cameloleopard: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). French beige. camisón: Peru. Thin cotton blouse. camelot: France. A tabby. camlee: See kambala. camel’s hair cloth: Thick, warm, lightweight, twill camlet: Mixed material fabric. weave fabric with glossy face made from camel’s cammaka: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Expensive hair, mohair, or cow hair. Usually light tan in color. fabric, probably of silk and camel hair. Used for royal cameo: Stone carved in relief to show woman’s head, and ecclesiastical garments. 2. See kamkhab. usually in white against pastel background. cammakara: India. A cobbler. camericke: See cambric. cammello: Italy. Camel. camibockers: (1910–1919 C.E.). United Kingdom. Wom- cammocca: See kamkhab. an’s combination undergarment of batiste, crepe de câ’m-nhung: Vietnam. Silk velvet. Chine, or silk. See also teddies; -bears. camoca: See camaca; kamkhab. camicia: Italy. Shirt. camocas: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance camicia da donna: Italy. Chemise (1450–1550 C.E.). Rich silk fabric, often striped in camicia rossa: Italy. Red shirt popularized by Garibaldi, gold and silver. Made in Palestine. Italian patriot. camocato: See kamkhab. camiciuola: Italy. Waistcoat. camocho: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration cami-knickers: (1920–1930 C.E.). (1660–1700 C.E.). Italy. Silk fabric. Woman’s undergarments com- campagus: Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). Ankle-high shoe bining bodice and panties. that laced over instep. Camilla mantelet: Crinoline campaign coat: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, silk Kingdom. Long military coat worn by common sol- mantelet trimmed with four rows dier from 1667. of at neck and same : (1910–1920 C.E.). United States of Amer- at waist. ica. Broad brimmed felt hat with quartered indenta- camisa: 1. See chemise. 2. Ecuador tions in crown, encircled by cord. Worn by World and Guatemala. Tailored shirt. 3. War I doughboys. Spain. Shirt. campaign wig: Restoration (1660– cami-knickers camisa chaki picada: Ecuador. A 1700 C.E.) to Early Georgian woman’s blouse with a scalloped hem. (1700–1750 C.E.). Popular un- camisa de baixo: Portugal. Straightjacket. til 1750 C.E., powdered wig camisa de força: Portugal. Straightjacket. with large curls on top and camisa de homem: Portugal. Shirt. long curls hanging down back. camisa de lā: Portugal. Jersey shirt. The back curls were sometimes camisa de la tela amarilla: Ecuador. The traditional cot- bound or braided into two or ton shirt that is made to look like a tunic without any three bunches. campaign wig shaping or sleeves. The sides of the garment are sewn campaigne: 1. A fringed or in- to simulate armseyes. dented braid. 2. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). A camisa de muiher: Portugal. Smock. simple, net grounded, straight lace. camisa de rigor: Portugal. . Campan: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, a fitted, camisa de senhoras: Portugal. Chemise. moire antique pelisse trimmed with tufted velvet gal- camisa polo: Spain. . loon and lace flounce. camise: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). campane: See campaigne. Loose, lightweight shirt, smock, or tunic. campanoni d’ori: Italy. Large buttons worn down front camiseiro: Portugal. Shirtmaker. of doge’s mantle. camiseta: 1. Ecuador and Guatemala. Shirt. 2. Portugal campera: Spain. Windbreaker. and Spain. Undershirt. campos: Spain. Wool fabric. camiseta con mangas cortas: Spain. T-shirt. câ’m-y: Vietnam. Brocade garment. camiseta de mujer: Spain. Tank top. can: Vietnam. Cane; walking stick. camisola: Portugal. ; camisole. canabhas: Ireland. Gaelic word for canvas. camisole: 1. Lace trimmed underbodice with narrow canach: Ireland. Cotton. straps. 2. Woman’s short negligee jacket. 3. Man’s canache: Plume of feather tips, usually ostrich. 50 Canadian embroidery

Canadian embroidery: Primitive embroidery of Cana- stocks. Worn by men. dian Indians that was done with porcupine quills canipo: Peru. Worn on the head, Incan large circular and animal skin strips. patens of gold or silver. canaichean: Ireland. Gaelic word for cotton. canne: France. Walking stick. cañamazo doblado: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). canne à système: France. Gadget cane. Spain. Hempen canvas. cannelé: To be woven in flutes or creased or sewn into cañari: Bolivia. Woman’s wide, heavy underbelt. fluted surface. canarie jaune: France. Canary yellow. cannellato: Italy. Crepoline. canary yellow: Bright, slightly reddish yellow. cannequin: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Geor- canavaccio: Italy. Canvas. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). White cotton fabric from East cancan dress: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). France. Indies. Style popularized by cancan dancers in Paris, France, cannes demi-solde: France. Flat cane containing a in 1890s. Includes basque bodice with large sleeves, sword. long full skirt, and great number of ruffled petticoats. cannes-dard: France. Cane containing a . cân-ðai: Vietnam. . cannetille: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). candakanta: India. Long, loose coat with a front opening. 1. Weave forming interlocking checks. 2. Lacy braid candanhār: India. A layered gold necklace. of gold or silver thread. candataka: India. 1. A petticoat. 2. A sewn skirt. cannon sleeves: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Padded, candlewick: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Manservants’ stiffened, full-cut gown sleeves that were fitted at rough material. 2. Present. Tufted cotton material. wrist. candongas: Ecuador. Large, round earrings. canoque: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, golden candramā: India. Moon-shaped ornament. brown. candys: Persia. Seventh to fourth century B.C.E. Linen canotier: France. Straight brimmed, flat crowned hat or wool garment. First recorded garment with set-in popularized by boatmen. sleeves. cân-quac: Vietnam. Woman’s handkerchief. cane color: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Yellowish cantab hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 white color. C.E.). Introduced in 1806, woman’s straw day hat canepin: France. Kidskin. with narrow rectangular brim and flat crown. canevas: France. Canvas. cantaloon: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Another name : 1. Directoire and First for camlet. Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) to Crino- canton crepe: Soft crepe fabric with bias ribs, originally line (1840–1865 C.E.). France. In- made of silk in Canton, China. troduced in 1820s as white sleeve- canton flannel: Strong cotton, twill weave flannel with less spencer. By the 1830s, it was long nap on one side. Used for interlinings, infant short, pointed cape that did not wear, and sleepwear. cover arms. By 1850s, it was fancy canton linen: See swatow grass cloth. muslin fichu with lace and rib- cantoon: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) canezou bons that covered front and back to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Fabric similar to fustian, Dover Publications of torso. 2. See corsage. but with fine cord on one side and satin face on other canezou spencer: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Wom- side. an’s transparent, collared, sleeved, short overbodice canura: Romania. Woolen thread. tucked into a sash at the waist. cañutillos: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Bugle cang: China. Dark green color. beads. cangan: China. Rough cotton fabric. canvas: 1. Heavy, strong cotton, linen, or synthetic fab- canganes: China. Cloth from Kaga. ric. 2. Cross-stitch fabric. cangcang: China. Gray. caoxié: China. Straw sandals. cangee: Yoke-like collar. cap à la Charlotte Corday: Directoire and First Empire canghuáng: China. Greenish yellow color. (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Woman’s soft cap with cánh dán: Vietnam. Brown. frill around face and worn tied with ribbon at neck. cánh-kien: Vietnam. Purple. Named for Charlotte Corday. cành-phuc: Vietnam. Police uniform. : United Kingdom. Symbol of rank caniche: Curly tufted fabric used for jackets. that is carried on cushion before ruler of United canille: Weave with stripes broken at intervals with Kingdom at coronation. Made of scarlet velvet and knot, giving effect of bamboo cane. trimmed with ermine. canions: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Very tight upper cap sleeve: Small sleeve, just covering shoulder. capuchin 51 cap tóc: Vietnam. Hairpin. capote: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle capa: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Wide, (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s cap that fitted around circular, hooded cloak worn by men. 2. Romantic chignon, with wide brim that framed face. 2. See poke (1815–1840 C.E.). Flowing evening cloak. 3. Portugal. bonnet. 3. Ecuador, Guatemala, and Portugal. Cloak; Rain cape. 4. See manto. mantle. capa corta: Spain. Cape. capot-ribot: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 capa larga: Spain. Cloak. C.E.). Black velvet with black triangular capa magna: Hooded cloak worn by cardinals in Roman curtain on back and sides. Lined in red, green, or Catholic Church. violet. capa morisca: Spain. Burnoose. capouch: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Monk’s cowl or capacete: Portugal. Helmet. hood. Also hood of cloak. capacete de : Spain. Sun helmet. cappa: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). capacho: Bolivia. Man’s shoulder bag. United Kingdom. Cap. Possibly only for ecclesiasti- capadüsli: Switzerland. Woman’s small gold-trimmed cap. cal use. cap-a-pie : Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Com- cappa clausa: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Closed plete suit of armor, reaching head to toe. . capash: Greece. Flowing scarf. cappa magna: Ceremonial robe worn by cardinals and cape a l’espanole: See capa. bishops. cape net: Stiff cotton net. cappa nigra: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Black choir capela: See touca. cope. capelina: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Skull-cap cappadine: Waste from silk cocoon remaining after silk of steel. has been removed. capeline: 1. Soft brimmed hat. cappe: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) 2. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Metal skullcap worn by soldiers. Middle English term for a cap. From French word for hood. 3. cappelina: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Light steel hel- Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). A met that fitted snugly to the head. woman’s hood, popularly worn cappeline: Hat blank with brim formed but body un- by nuns and widows. 4. France. blocked. A woman’s hood, commonly at- cappello: Italy. Hat. tached to a short capelet. cappello a cencio: Italy. Cloth hat. capellar: Renaissance (1450–1550 cappello a cilindro: Italy. . capeline (modeled) C.E.). Spain. Hooded cloak. cappello a lobbia: Italy. Homburg. caperuza: Renaissance (1450–1550 cappello a tagliere: Italy. Broad-brimmed hat. C.E.). Spain. Hood. cappello a tesa larga: Italy. Squash hat. capeskin: Durable glove leather cappello da uomo: Man’s . from skin of South African haired cappello di paglia: Italy. Straw hat. sheep. cappello floscio: Italy. Slouch hat. capichola: Spain. Faille. cappucio: Italy. Hood; cowl. capilla: Renaissance (1450–1550 capra china: Italy. Chinese goat fur. C.E.). Spain. Hood. capri: Bluish green. capeline capillamentum: Roman (753 capri blue: Deep sea blue. B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Wig. : Women’s tapered leg pants that end just capirote: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Cap. above ankle, sometimes with slit over ankle bone. capisayo: Ecuador and Guatemala. Vest; poncho. caprice: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1846, capitonné: France. To be stuffed or padded. woman’s loose, sleeveless evening jacket that reached capitonné embroidery: Decorative tufting on furniture. down to rounded point in back. capixaij: Guatemala. Man’s long, rectangular cloak with capriole: See cabriolet. an opening for the head. May be worn belted. capuce: See . capixay: Guatemala. Man’s woolen long coat. capuch: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Cloak’s hood. capka: See cepice. capucha: Portugal. Hood; bonnet. capot: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in 1816, capuche: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850s, woman’s woman’s evening hood of cardinal red silk handker- silk-lined muslin bonnet. chief. capuchin: 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Hooded capota: Portugal. Cap; headdress. cloak similar to those worn by Capuchin . 52 capuchinho

2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1862, caravan: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). In 1765, early red brown like cinnamon. 3. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). version of calash. Gray cashmere or alpaca dust cloak that was lined in carbunculus: See anthrax. red or striped surah. The cloak had a peaked hood. carcaille: Late Gothic (1350–1450 capuchinho: Portugal. Small hood or cowl. C.E.). Flaring collar reaching to capuchon: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). ears. Common on houppelan- Hood, often with tail (known later as the liripipe), des and pourpoint, it was often and usually attached to cape. trimmed with fur for winter capucine: Canary yellow. wear. capulet: France. Hood worn by peasant women. carcanet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 caputium: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Hood worn by C.E.). Gold or jeweled neck- scholars and ecclesiastics. lace, bracelet, or hair ornament. caputrock: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Austria. carda: Early Gothic (1200–1350 carcaille Overcoat. C.E.) to Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Cloth of capuz: See touca. unknown origin used in making . capuz de frade: Portugal. Cowl. cardado: Spain. Any shaggy uncombed wool fabric. caqui: Spain. Khaki. cardador: Ecuador and Guatemala. Person who cards cáqui: Portugal. Khaki. fleece. cà-rá: Vietnam. Diamond. cardato: Italy. Any shaggy uncombed wool fabric. carabitina: Greek. Sandal worn by peasants. : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to present. Knitted caracal: Lynx fur. sweater that opened down front. caracalla: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). cardinal: 1. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Woman’s Long sleeved, narrow, fitted garment, sometimes waist-length, hoodless cloak. 2. See Talma cloak. hooded. 3. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1864, lady’s col- : Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Gown à la fran- lar ending in pleated muslin tabs. 4. First Empire caise that ended at hip, making peasant-style jacket. (1790–1815 C.E.). United States of America. Scarlet caraco á la française: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). hooded wool cloak. France. Caraco with watteau pleats. cardinal cloth: Red wool fabric used in some vest- caraco á la polonaise: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). ments. France. Caraco with lower front edge curving around cardinal pelerine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular to back. in 1840s, woman’s deep lace evening bertha split in caraco ácoqueluchon: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). center. France. Caraco with hood or cowl. cardinal red: Bright red, darker than scarlet. caraco gown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Long cardinal white: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). White basqued gown with peplum. Often trained. undyed wool homespun. caracul: Russia. Astrakhan fur. cardows: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Tasseled cords caracul cloth: Heavy woolen fabric resembling Persian on man’s ceremonial robe. lamb. carechale: See marechal. caracul lamb: Sleek, soft fur with high luster. careless: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. caracule: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Astrachan with Man’s loose overcoat with full cape and wide collar. wide curl in hair. Made without waist seam. caracule material: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In çargat: Iran. Woman’s transparent veil. 1894, a flannel lining fabric with crocodile mohair Cariola: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, woman’s surface. striped burnous with pointed hood. caradori: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, woman’s carkanett: Ireland. Weight of jewelry. silk summer mantle with fitted body and deep lace carkanette: See carcanet. flounce. carkenet: See carkanett. caramel: Reddish yellow. çârma: Algeria. Jewish woman’s long, cone-shaped carana: India. . headdress on metal framework. carapa: Croatia and . Stocking. carmagnole: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). čarapa: Bosnia. Stocking. Italy. Man’s short-skirted coat with wide, turned down carapuça: Portugal. Funnel-shaped blue felt cap with collar and rows of metal buttons. Worn by Italian work- pipe pointing up and holding sprig of rosemary. men and later adopted by French Revolutionaries. Com- Worn by both genders before WWI and is now worn monly worn with redingote, clogs, and Phrygian cap. rarely, and then only by women. carmakt: See padukakrt. casair 53 carmeillette: 1. See capuchon. 2. Romantic (1815–1840 carpmeal white: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Eliza- C.E.). In 1837, woman’s short evening cloak with bethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Fabric used for hose linings. hood and long sleeves. carpote: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s small hat carmeline: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in worn with ties beneath chin. 1870, fine wool fabric. 2. Persian wool. carranes: 1. Ireland. Leather footwear. 2. Isle of Man. carmelite: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1872, Rough calfskin shoes made with hair still on. Laced reddish-plum color. 2. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). with leather thongs. Fabric similar to thin beige but more open in weave. carreau: France. Check or square design. carmeñola: Spain. Man’s small, fitted cap. carreau amazone: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In carmezim: Portugal. . 1891, a dark blue and light sky blue check fabric. carmim: Portugal. . carrel: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan carmin: 1. Italy. Carmine. 2. Spain. Carmine. (1550–1625 C.E.). Silk and homespun fabric. carmine: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 carrez de gaze: France. A type of needlework lace. C.E.). Bright red color popular in 1817. 2. (1940–1949 carriage boot: Woman’s protective outer boot. C.E.). Red color with blue tint. carriages: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Straps that carminio: Italy. Carmine. hung from belt and were used to support sword. carnagan: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular in the carrick: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 20th century. Long 1820s, cloth commonly used for trousers. woman’s dust cloak with three capes. carnation: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Flesh color. carrickmacross: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 1890s. carnaza: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Flesh side of a hide. Cut muslin work. carnelian: 1. Variety of chalcedony used in jewelry. 2. : Ireland. Lace with appliqued mo- Flesh red. tifs connected by knotted hexagonal lace. carnival: Type of reticella lace. carrodary: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Direc- carolina beaver: Beaver fur imported from Carolina. toire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Original Inferior to Canadian fur. name of cherryderry. caroline: 1. France. Twill weave, woolen dress fabric. 2. carrot color: Red yellow. Stovepipe hat. çarsof: Turkey. Woman’s outer garment consisting caroline corsage: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United of large rectangle with drawstring at waist. Worn Kingdom. Popular in the 1830s, woman’s evening draped over head and falls to feet. corsage with narrow lace fall in deep V shape. carthage cymar: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 caroline hat: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early C.E.). Introduced in 1809, fancy net scarf with gold Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Man’s hat of Carolina embossed border that was worn attached to one beaver, commonly worn by servants. shoulder and hanging down back to knees. caroline sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular in carthagena: Long staple West Indian cotton. 1830s, woman’s day dress sleeve that was very full cartisane: Parchment strip wrapped in silk or metal to elbow and then fitted to wrist. thread and used in lace to give raised effect. caroline spencer: Directoire and cartola: Portugal. Top hat. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). cartoose collar: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Standing Spencer with pelerine cape that collar with pickadils on upper edge. was made of white cartridge pleat: Round pleat shaped as if to hold a car- and trimmed with light blue satin tridge. cut on bias. cartwheel: Flat, wide, low- caroubier: Bustle (1865–1890 crowned, stiff-brimmed, straw C.E.). In 1876, new color. or felt hat. ’s apron: Fabric or casa de botão: Portugal. Button- leather half apron with pouch- hole. caroline sleeve like pockets to carry small tools, casaca: Portugal. Dress coat; frock cartwheel screws, etc. Worn on a belt. coat; tail coat. carpet slippers: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 20th casaco: Portugal. Coat. century. United Kingdom. Worn from around 1840, casaco de peles: Portugal. Fur coat. men’s bedroom slippers with uppers made of Ger- casaco esportiva: Portugal. Blazer. man wool woven like carpet. casaco para uso caseiro: Portugal. Housecoat. carpmeal: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Geor- casag: Ireland. Gaelic word for long coat. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. Coarse cloth casag-mharcachd: Ireland. Gaelic word for riding coat. used for linings. casair: Ireland. Gaelic word for buckle. 54 casaque casaque: 1. Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– cashmere syrien: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Very fine, 1660 C.E.). Greatcoat with large sleeves with revered soft twill weave cashmere. cuffs. Usually three-quarter length. 2. Restoration cashmere twill: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Cotton (1660–1700 C.E.). France. Surcoat. 3. Crinoline (1840– fabric imitating French cashmere. 1865 C.E.). Woman’s fitted jacket that had a deep cashmere work: India. Embroidery done on cashmere, basque and buttoned to neck. often including inlaid applique. casaque bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in cashmerette: Lightweight, twill weave cotton fabric 1873, woman’s fitted bodice with deep front basque. with slight nap. casaquin: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- cashmerienne: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Woman’s at-home dressing 1880, fine wool fabric with twill on both sides. gown. cashmire de bège: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, casaquin bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s new fabric. tailed fitted day bodice that buttoned down front. casimir: France, Spain. Cassimere. See also - Worn with untrained skirt that was two inches off mere. ground. casimir de soie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced casaquin en juste: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). in 1853, silk and wool blend fabric that looked like France. Woman’s short, fitted, hip-length jacket. shot silk. casaweck: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crinoline casimira: Portugal. Kerseymere. (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular from 1836 to around 1850, casimiro: Italy. Cassimere. woman’s short, quilted, sleeved mantle with velvet, casket cloth: Cotton warp and wool, silk, or rayon weft silk, or satin collar. Trimmed in fur, velvet, or lace. fabric. casbans: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) to casōg: Ireland. Coat. 1890s. Heavy cotton fabric used for linings. caspian: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1897, a dull cascade: Jabot. green. cascade waistband: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle casque: 1. See helm. 2. France. helmet. (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s waist- casque à la Tarleton: Directoire and First Empire band that was fringed in jet . (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Peaked leather helmet with casco: 1. Italy. Crash helmet. 2. Spain. Helmet; crash bearskin . helmet. casque colonial: France. Sun helmet. casco coloniale: Italy. Sun helmet. casquetel: Small, lightweight, open helmet without vi- caseac: Romania. Woman’s triangular kerchief with sor. tassels. : 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular in cased body: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United 1863–1864, woman’s straw hat with low brim. Kingdom. Man’s sleeveless jerkin worn over doublet. Trimmed in black velvet and ostrich feathers. 2. 2. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Woman’s bodice with France. Hat. rows of horizontal pleats across chest. cassenet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Summer dress cased sleeve: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) fabric. to Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Wom- cassimere: Medium weight, woolen fabric made in an’s long sleeve with horizontal bands of insertion. twill, plain, and fancy weaves. : Sheer drapery fabric of silk, rayon, cot- cassimerette: Cheap grade of cassimere used for boys’ ton, or blend in light colors. suit. casemira: Portugal. Cashmere. cassinette: Fabric with cotton warp and wool or wool casentino: Italy. Red coachman’s coat lined in green. blend weft. casha: Soft wool fabric, similar to flannel, used for cassis: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Italy. Small, fit- dresses, blouses, and coats. ted metal helmet. 2. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, cashmere: Very fine, soft wool from undercoat of cash- black currant color with slight hint of blue. mere goats. Naturally white, gray, tan, or blend. cassock: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s doublet Used to make high quality fabric. which from 1650 to 1670 was lengthened sometimes cashmere de baize: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Silk and to knee. Worn belted or beltless. Later became daily worsted fabric used for travelling dresses. wear of Roman Catholic and Church of United King- cashmere shawl: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to 20th dom clergy. century. Square or oblong shawl either woven or cassock mantle: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- embroidered. Woven version was woven in sections dom. Worn in 1880s, woman’s short sleeved, knee- and more costly. Best quality were 3.5 yards length cloak that gathered on shoulders and down by 1.5 yards. Characteristic pattern was cone design. center back. cauliflower wig 55 cassock vest: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- cater-cap: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration dom. Worn in 1850s by Tractorian High Church of- (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s four-cornered cap worn by ficials, clerical waistcoat that buttoned on shoulder. academicians. castagnino: Italy. Nut brown. catgut: Plain weave fabric made from hardspun linen yarn. castanho: Portugal. Brown. See also cor. Catgut lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Geor- castaño: Spain. Hazel. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Trade name for type of lace, castellan delaine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, new not really from catgut. fabric. cathedral beard: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Direc- Castiglione: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, wom- toire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). American. an’s cloth cloak with deep collar. Trimmed with Wide, square cut beard worn by dignitaries of Church. strips of arabesque plush and buttons. Catherine wheel : Elizabethan (1550–1625 Castilian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from 1580 to around C.E.). 1. In 1853, cloak made from 1620, woman’s farthingale in tub shape. See also 5-1/2 widths of velvet 36 inches wheel farthingale. long and lined with silk. Remov- cati: France. Gloss; luster. able hood. 2. In 1857, woman’s catiole: France. Marriage coif. woolen talma with bertha and cát-két: Vietnam. Visored cap. lower edge trimmed with fringe. çatma: Turkey. Fine, tightly woven, lustrous velvet Talma was trimmed with 10 rows made in Bursa from late 15th century on. of passementerie. 3. In 1859, sum- catogan: Late Georgian (1750– mer burnous trimmed with quilled 1790 C.E.) to Directoire and Castilian ribbon and chenille tassels. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). castillian red: Bright, intense, Popular from 1760 to late slightly yellowish red. 1790s, man’s wig with wide, castle: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. flat queue that folded up and Variety of helmet. tied with black ribbon. castle hat: (1910–1920 C.E.). In 1913, a woman’s hat with catrinta: Romania. Woman’s crushed crown with assymetric brim and trimmed apron. Vertical stripes and de- with feather bunch on one side. signs. castor: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– catrintoi: Romania. Woman’s 1890 C.E.). . 2. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In- apron worn behind. Horizontal troduced in 1872, brownish gray. 3. See beaver cloth. stripes and designs. 4. France and Spain. Beaver fur. catskin: Silk hat of inferior quality. catogan castor gray: Yellow green. catto: India. A veil. castorina: Spain. Beaver cloth. catula: India. A pendant. castorino: Italy. Nutria. caubagalā: See badan. castoro: Italy. Beaver fur. : Ireland. Slang term for any hat, particularly casul: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). old ones. United Kingdom. Cloak or . Possibly only caucho pargate: Ecuador. Sandals made from rubber an ecclesiastical term. tires. casulo: Portugal. Chasuble. caudebec hat: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Late cas-urladh: Ireland. Gaelic word for curled lock. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s beaver felt hat, catagan: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular from 1870 to originally from Caudebec, Normandy. 1875, chignon of ringlet or braids worn at base of caul: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). back of head and tied with ribbon. Close-fitting worn by women of upper class. catagan head-dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced 2. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Charles I (1625– in 1889, woman’s hairstyle with hair braided in back 1660 C.E.). Trellis-work cap of silk thread or gold. and tied up with ribbon. Popular with older schoolgirls. Sometimes lined with silk or worn with veil. 3. Resto- catagan net: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular in 1870s, ration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 woman’s hairnet worn over catagan. C.E.). Net on which a wig was constructed. 4. Early cataloon: See catalowne. Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). catalowne: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration Soft crown of woman’s cap. (1660–1700 C.E.). Inferior camlet. cauliflower wig: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). catalpha: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration United Kingdom. Man’s curled bob-wig worn by (1660–1700 C.E.). Silk fabric. coachmen. 56 caungeantries caungeantries: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Eliza- Cebu hemp: See abaca. bethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Fabric with worsted warp ceimhleag: Ireland. Gaelic word for fillet. and silk weft. ceimh-mhileach: Ireland. Gaelic word for hair bodkin. caurimauri: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renais- ceimh-phion: See ceimh-mhileach. sance (1450–1550 C.E.). Coarse fabric. ceint: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance caushets: Obsolete term for . (1450–1550 C.E.). Sash, girdle, or belt. causia: Greek. Thessalonian traveling hat. Worn by ac- ceinture: France. Girdle. tors to suggest having been traveling. ceinture dragonne: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- cavalier boot: 1. High boot with flaring cuff. 2. Man’s duced in 1862, waistband resembling corselet in house slipper. front. Closed in back with tabs and buttons. Made cavalier cuff: Deep gauntlet cuff. in two contrasting colors such as black and violet or cavalier sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United white and mauve. Kingdom. Common in 1830s, woman’s day sleeve céire: Ireland. 1. Dark gray. 2. Drab brown. that was full to elbow and then tight to wrist. Tied cela: See amsuka. along outside edge with ribbons. celada de engole: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. cavallino: Italy. Pony. Ridged helmet with a serrated comb and a pointed : Germany. Cavalry twill. visor. cavalry: France, Italy, and Spain. Cavalry twill. celadon: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, new color. cavalry twill: Double twill weave worsted, cotton, or Celadon green: Light, soft gray green. rayon fabric. celam: See amsuyam. cavanhaque: Portugal. Goatee. Celanese: Trade name for made using ca-vát: Vietnam. Necktie. acetate process. cawdebink: See caudebec hat. Celastic: Fabric impregnated with plastic. caxon: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- celeste: 1. France. To be celestial. 2. Bustle (1865–1890 gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s tie-wig worn for un- C.E.). In 1867, blue color. dress. Generally white or light colored. celestial: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. cayenne: France. Unbleached linen. Sky blue. cazapo: Italy. Spanish rabbit fur much used for men’s hats. cellular cloth: Leno weave, porous fabric used for un- cazavacka: France. Sacque. derwear. cazenou: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s short, celluloid: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Plastic invented in sleeveless jacket. 1883. ccahua: See unku. celtic weave: Basket weave. ccahuas: Bolivia. Tunics. cemes: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). cchipas: India. Person who prints fabric with hand- United Kingdom. Male child’s shirt. blocks. cendal: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Elizabethan cchok: Korea. Married woman’s fist-sized bun held in (1550–1625 C.E.). Silk fabric similar to taffeta. place with twitkkoji. cendré: France. Ash color. ceabet: Norway. Standing collar. cendre de rose: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in ceadach: Ireland. Gaelic word for coarse fabric; veil or 1872, gray color with pink cast. mantle. cendryn: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic cealt: Ireland. Gaelic word for apparel. (1350–1450 C.E.). Gray fabric. cealtar: Ireland. Gaelic word for thick, gray broadcloth. cenojil: See liga. ceanna-bhrat: Ireland. Gaelic word for headdress. cento: Garment made of patches. ceann-aodach: Ireland. Gaelic word for headdress; mi- centre de Cedra: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, ashy ter or turban. gray. ceann-bhàrr: Ireland. Any male headdress. centro: Ecuador. A Spanish style skirt that is gathered ceann-bhàrr eas-buig: Ireland. Bishop’s miter. or pleated onto a waistband. ceann-bheart: Ireland. Gaelic word for helmet. centro de lana: Peru. Plain woolen skirt that is gathered ceann-éideadh: Ireland. 1. Headdress. 2. Turban. 3. Miter. at the waist. ceapsâ: Romania. Woman’s bonnet. ceòis: See cias. ceara: Ireland. Gaelic word for red colored. cepec: 1. Russia. Hood. 2. Slovakia. Cap worn by mar- čebatas: See batas. ried women. cebolão: Portugal. Silver watch. cepice: Czechoslovakia. Cap. cebot: Russia. Boot. cepken: Turkey. Man’s bolero-like, sleeveless, elabo- cebtí: Spain. Renaissance. In 1493, a popular silk fabric. rately embroidered jacket. chamarre 57 cepök: Hungary. Low boot that laces on side. chain lace: An openwork braid. cepure: Lithuania. Hat; hood. chain stitch: A stitch made of interlocking flat links. cerata: Portugal. Oilcloth. chaine de forçat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Heavy cereja: Portugal. Cherry red. gold chain attached to watch or . Cerevis: Germany. Small, brimless, round cap similar chain-hole: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 20th century. to pillbox. Hole for watch-chain sewn between two cereza: Spain. Cerise. on waistcoat. cerise: Cherry-like color. chainse: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). cermuk: Indonesia. Small mirror pieces embroidered France. Full, ankle-length garment with long straight onto fabric. sleeves. Worn belted under the bliaud. ceroulas: Portugal. Drawers; long johns. chainsil: See cainsil. cerrada: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Center chaisel: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic back. (1350–1450 C.E.). Fine linen used for smocks. cerulea: Portugal. Cerulean. chajutbit: Korea. Purple. cerulean blue: See cyan blue. chakchiri: Russia. Hussar breeches worn with boots. ceruse: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Georgian chak’et: Korea. Jacket. (1750–1790 C.E.). Cosmetic used to whiten face, once chakva chir: India. Fine shawls trimmed with golden made of white lead. lace. cervelière: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fitted steel cap. chakvidar: India. Muslim turban. cervelliera: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Italy. Fitted chal: Spain. Shawl; collar. steel cap. chalana: India. Loose or close-fitting trouser. ceryphalos: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Bandage-like fillet. chalanika: India. Women’s mid-thigh-length under- cerzideira: Portugal. Seamstress. shorts. cestus: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Woman’s girdle, either chalcedony: Wax-like quartz used in jewelry. simple cord or wide, fancy belt. chalchihuitl: Mexico. Jade. cetim: Portugal. Satin. chaldera: Spain. Copper color. cetrino: Spain. Chartreuse. châle: France. Shawl. See also manta. cettelle: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. . châle de brodie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, ceylon: United Kingdom. Plain weave, cotton shirting large shawl trimmed with deep fringe. fabric. chaleco: Ecuador and Spain. Vest. ceylonette: United Kingdom. All cotton fabric. chalet: Turkestan. -type garment, often quilted chachal: Guatemala. Woman’s necklace of beads and or padded. silver coins. chalina: 1. Ecuador. Shawl. 2. Peru. Single man’s rectan- chach’im’: See panul. gular shawl with fringes on the ends. 3. Spain. Scarf. chaconada: Spain. Jaconet. chalinet: See challis. chaconne: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Ribbon that chalk stripe: Light stripe in suiting fabrics. wrapped around neck and fell to chest, forming nar- challapata: Bolivia. Special poncho worn by the local row cravat. chieftain. chaddar: Iran. Shawl or mantle. challie: See challis. chadder: India. Hand spun, handwoven fabric. challis: Soft, lightweight, plain weave fabric. chadidāra sādi: See dadiyā. chalmyeon: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Long narrow chla- chadoe: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 mys for women. C.E.). East Indian printed cotton or cotton blend fabric. chalong phra ong long raja: . Sua yarn worn chadri: See burqa. by a member of the court. chaetpit: Korea. Gray. chalwar: Turkey. Women’s ankle-length, red silk trou- chaffers: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- sers worn at home. dom. Embroidered lapels of gabled hood. chàm: Vietnam. Indigo. chagae: Korea. Mother of pearl. châm: Vietnam. Pin; needle. chagrin: Silk fabric with pebbled face resembling chaman: Chile and Peru. Woman’s jacket that is embroi- leather. dered at cuffs and borders. chai: China. Woman’s hairpin. chamarre: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan chai-chieh-p’ai: See zhaijiepai. (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Large square of fabric with chaila: India. Printed saris worn by unmarried girls. T-shaped opening for neck. Collar was attached chain buckle: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Curled to crosspiece of T and neck opening revered back. wig. Sleeves cut full at top that were often lined with fur. 58 chambangi chambangi: Korea. Farmer’s knee breeches. chandal: Spain. Sweatshirt. chambard mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United chandarvo: India. Canopy cloth. Kingdom. Woman’s three-quarter-length, sleeved, chandataka: India. Woman’s undergarment; petticoat. hooded mantle with deep pleats in back. chandlo: India. Vermillion caste mark on a woman’s chambergo: Spain. Squash hat. forehead. chambertine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in chandtara: India. Muslin with floral embroidery. 1872, wool and linen blend fabric for light dress. Chanel suit: (1920–1930 C.E.). United States of America. chambery gauze: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1869, very Woman’s day suit consisting of severely straight thin fabric. skirt and jacket. Almost a uniform. chamblette: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Plain weave, cháng: China. 1. Cloak. 2. Skirt worn in ancient times. silk fabric. chang fu: China. Charles I and the Commonwealth chambord: Ribbed woolen fabric. (1625–1660 C.E.) to 1910s. Man’s basic long robe with chambray: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in standing collar. 1880s, thick, strong . 2. Bustle (1865–1890 chang guan: China. Green bamboo bark headdress C.E.). Cotton gingham used for bonnets. 3. Plain worn by civil officials while making sacrifices. weave cotton fabric made with colored warp and chang shan: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Han white weft. man’s side-fastening ordinary gown. Curved front chameau: France. Camel. opening with loop and toggle closures. Long taper- chameleon: Changeable fabric created by having warp ing sleeves. and weft threads of different colors. changalli: Ecuador. A kind of apron. chamelia: India. Golden yellow. changeable taffeta: Taffeta woven with warp of one chamford mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United color and weft of another. Appears to change color Kingdom. First appearing in 1850, velvet or satin as light hits it from various angles. hooded cloak, similar to shawl, with deep fold in back. changgap: Korea. Pairs of gloves or mittens. chamlet: Camlet. changhwa: Korea. Top boots. chamma: 1. Abyssinia. Worn by both men and women, chángkù: China. Trousers. a three yard long, two to four yard wide piece of fab- chang-ot: Korea. Woman’s full-sleeved cloak worn with ric worn draped around the shoulders. 2. Ethiopia. draped skirt. Traditional outer garment made from one piece of chángpáo: China. Long gown or robe. cotton. Woman’s version may be embroidered. chángshan: China. Long, unlined gown. chammarros: Mexico. Cloak in Chiapas. chàngtongwà: China. Stockings. chammer: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- chaniyo: India. Long, gathered silk skirt. than (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s rich, channavira: India. Crossbelt on the chest. sleeved gown worn open. channon cloth: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Worsted chamois: Suede-finished undersplit of lamb or sheep skins. fabric. chamois cloth: Knitted or woven cotton fabric napped chantilly: A dainty, machine-made bobbin lace of silk to resemble chamois. made with a fine hexagonal mesh ground and pat- chamoisette: Fine knitted cotton fabric used for gloves. tern. Originally it was a bobbin lace of raw silk. Later chamoisuede: Fine knitted cotton fabric for gloves. the term referred to a black version of the lace. chamot: Korea. . chao dai: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Man’s champ: France. Refers to the ground of a lace. woven silk girdle. champagne: Light, pale gold. ch’ao fu: China. Manchu imperial robe for formal court champai: India. Saffron yellow. functions. champaigne cloth: See champeyn. chao gua: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Wom- champeyn: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance an’s court vest with deep armseyes and sloping (1450–1550 C.E.). Fine linen fabric. shoulder seams. chana-chani: India. A hempen cloth. chao guan: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Win- chanbagala: India. A man’s vest with four fastenings. ter hat worn by emperor, male members of impe- chancellor: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late rial family and high officials. Red floss silk padded Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s wig, style unknown. crown and brim of sable or fox fur. chanchanko: Japan. A sleeveless jacket for tod- chao pao: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Man’s dlers. court robe. Short, side-fastening jacket connected to chanclas: Guatemala and Mexico. Plastic or rubber skirt with pleated aprons. thong sandals. chao zhu: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Neck- chandail: 1. Spencer sweater. 2. France. Sweater. lace of 108 small beads separated with four larger chargat 59

beads. Both ornamental and served as abacus. Fe- de paille: France. Straw hat. male version had two extra , worn crossed chapeau d’homme: France. Man’s trilby. from shoulder to opposite underarm. chapeau jockei: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. ch’aokua: China. Ch’ing dynasty. Full-length vest worn Hat in style of those worn by jockeys. by Manchu women. chapeau melon: See . : Afghanistan. Folded over coat or robe. chapeau mou: France. Squash hat. chaparajos: Worn by cowboys to protect their legs from chapeau souple: France. Slouch hat. brush and thorns, strong leather breeches that cov- chapeau-bras: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to ered only front of legs. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Small false chape: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). hat shaped like , but flat. Carried by dandies Cape, sometimes slit at sides, with cap sleeves or under arm, rather than wearing hat which might long, loose sleeves. 2. Piece that holds buckle to strap. disarrange hair. 2. Directoire and First Empire (1790– chape à aige: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. 1815 C.E.). Woman’s crush bonnet introduced in 1814 Rain cape. by Mrs. Bell, dressmaker. chapeau: France. Hat. chapel d’acier: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. chapeau à borne: Switzerland. Grape pickers’ large Steel war-hat. straw hat. chapel de Montauban: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). chapeau à la Basile: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Steel war-hat made at Montauban. France. Woman’s headdress named for character in chapel-de-fer: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. The Marriage of Figaro. Iron skull-cap, sometimes with brim. chapeau à la Cérès: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). chapeleiro: Portugal. Hatmaker. France. Woman’s hat trimmed with wheat, symbol chapelle-de-fer: See chapel-de-fer. of Ceres, Roman goddess of harvest. chapeo: Spain. Parasol. chapeau à la Charlotte: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). chaperone: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Caped France. Woman’s headdress in style of one worn by hood with long liripipe which was sometimes Queen Charlotte of United Kingdom. worn draped around shoulders. Later worn with chapeau à la Chérubin: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). face opening over top of head and cape droop- France. Woman’s hat named for character Cherubino ing decoratively over side. 2. Charles I (1625–1660 in The Marriage of Figaro. C.E.). Woman’s soft, informal hood worn tied un- chapeau à la Colonne: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). der chin. France. Woman’s hat named for French Minister of chapéu cardinalício: Portugal. Cardinal’s scarlet hat. Finance, Charles-Alexandre de Calonne. chapiron: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. French chapeau à la Devonshire: Late Georgian (1750–1790 hood. C.E.). France. French version of English style hat. chapkan: See balaba. chapeau à la Grenade: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). chaplet: Wreath or garland worn like fillet, often worn France. Hat with pomegranate button to hold feath- as symbol of honor. ers in place. Named for French conquest of island in chappals: India. Sandals. Caribbean. : Shortened form of chaparajos. chapeau à la turque: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). chapska: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Poland. Fur- France. Hat of unclear description. trimmed cap with square crown. chapeau à l’égyptienne: Late Georgian (1750–1790 chaqué: Spain. Morning coat. C.E.). France. Puffed handkerchief with lace edge chaqueta: Spain. Heavy fabric or worn by that was worn as cap and was held on with aigrette cowboys. of two heron feathers. chaqueta corta de marino: Spain. Reefer. chapeau à l’italienne: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). chaqueta corta y gruesa: Spain. Lumberjack’s jacket. France. Woman’s cap in style of those worn during chaqueta deportiva: Spain. Blazer. Italian Renaissance. chaqueta para casa: Spain. Smoking jacket. chapeau à plumes: France. Hat with plumes. chaquira: Ecuador and Guatemala. Decorative beads. chapeau au bateau renversé: Late Georgian (1750–1790 charahuilla: Chile. Men’s very wide trousers worn tied C.E.). France. Woman’s large bonnet with white at ankles. gauze veil that reached to waist. charak: Korea. Skirt. chapeau claque: France. Gibus. charan dharan: India. Shoes. chapeau de Cardinal: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). charanalankara: India. Ordinary or toe ring. France. In 1776, woman’s straw hat bound with red chargat: Turkmenistan. Woman’s triangular shawl ribbon. Popular during trial of Cardinal de Rohan. worn over alan dangi and yaluk. 60 charicari charicari: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). chásè: China. Dark brown. Leather, chamois, buckskin, or suede cavalry ch’aska: See t’ikita. that were sewn in the instep and had buttoned up chasseur: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, hunter’s sides on scalloped outer seam. green. chariwari: See esquavar. chasu: Korea. Embroidery. charka: India. A hand-powered floor spinning wheel. chasuble: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Circular charkha: See charka. outer garment with head opening. 2. Silk or metallic charlotte: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Woman’s fabric T-shaped cape worn in the Catholic Church. 3. wide, tightly gathered hat on brim with wide flounce. France. . Named for Queen Charlotte of United Kingdom. chasujong: Korea. Amethyst, a gem. Charlotte Corday bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). châtain: France. Nut brown. United Kingdom. Woman’s outdoor hat with tall, chatelaine: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to 20th cen- soft crown gathered to narrow brim with frill. Wide tury. Long metal chain that fastened around wom- ribbon covered place where crown and brim met. an’s waist, pinned to skirt. Had a variety of attach- Pendant strings. ments, including keys, mirror, scent box, pincushion. Charlotte Corday cap: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Small ring attached to United Kingdom. Named for watch chain. From it hung small fobs. Charlotte Corday, a heroine of chatelaine bag: (20th century). the known for Small bag attached to belt. being the murderer of Jean-Paul Worn by women. Marat. A lingerie cap designed as chatiagne: Bustle (1865–1890 a variation of the mob cap worn C.E.). In 1889, dark oak color. during the French Revolution and chaton: France. Setting of gem. trimmed with ribbons, flounces, chatoyante: Crinoline (1840–1865 lace, and flowers. C.E.). Introduced in 1847, thin charm: See chatelaine. wool fabric with gray ground charm bracelet: Bracelet with having wide check. pendant charms. chatta: India. Umbrella. charm ring: Talisman ring. chattra: India. An umbrella, the charm string: Bustle (1865–1890 symbol of royalty. Charlotte Corday cap (early Crinoline) C.E.). Popular in 1880s, woman’s chau: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). necklace of small buttons of vari- United States of America. Chi- Dover Publications chatelaine bag ous styles. nese Hawaiian term for a crude Dover Publications charmè: Mexico. Silk velvet. fabric that is one-third cotton charmeen: Fine worsted fabric and two-thirds silk. with twill. châu báu: Vietnam. Generic term for precious pearls. charmelaine: Fabric with twill chau fu: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Man’s back. consisting of chao pao, pi ling, hat, girdle, charmés: Spain. . necklace, and boots. charmeuse: (20th century). Satin chāubwalī jootī: India. Close-fitting embroidered slip- formal dress fabric with dull back pers with pointed toes. and shiny face. chaudron: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, copper red. charmeuse felt: Soft, lightweight chaugoshia: India. A cap made of four panels which felt with lustrous face. meet in a point at the top of the crown. In the 19th charol: Spain. Patent leather. century, it was worn informally at court. Charlotte Corday cap charoul: Egypt. A man’s very full, chaulari: India. A four-stringed necklace. (late Crinoline) ankle-length trousers. chaume: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, new color. charretera: Spain. Epaulet. chauri: India. A fly whisk made from an ox tail. chartreuse: Yellow green. chausettes: France. Socks. charuot: Korea. Sack dress. chausse: See epitoga. : France. Elegant silk fabric in irregular twill weave. chaussembles: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Nobility’s charvet et fils de Paris: See charvet. hose with leather soles. Were sometimes worn with- charwa: China. Worn by Yi women, woolen felt cape out other shoes. with square shoulders. Usually of black fabric and : Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). piped in a color. Leg coverings of fabric, stitched to fit. cheo 61 chausses en bourses: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). ment with square neck. 4. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Breeches that were full at bottom. In 1876, pleated gussets were introduced to assist in chausses larges à l’antique: France. Galligaskins. shaping bust. In 1880s, elaborately trimmed. By 1890, chausses semellées: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). replaced with combinations. 5. France. Shirt. France. Footed . chemise à la greque: Directoire and First Empire chaussette: See chausettes. (1790–1815 C.E.). France. High-waisted gown chaussette montant: France. Long socks. with small puffed sleeves and slightly gathered chaussons: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Trews or skirt. breeches of . chemise à la Reine: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). chaussure: France. Shoe. France. Popularized by Marie Antoinette, a loose, chaussures à cric: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. unfitted gown with deep décolletage worn sashed Heeled shoes. at waist. chaussures à pont-levis: See chaussures à cric. chemise à l’anglaise: Directoire and First Empire chayazome: Japan. Summer kimono. (1790–1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Lingerie gown cheater’s cloth: A fabric printed with an allover quilt with crushed satin sash. Worn in winter and sum- design, intended to look like a pieced quilt top. mer. cheats: 1. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Men’s waist- chemise de nuit: France. Nightgown. coats with front made from elaborate fabric and back chemise d’homme: France. Shirt. from cheap fabric. 2. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). chemise dress: Dress that hangs straight from shoul- Man’s shirt with collar attached already. ders. chechia: 1. Arabia. Cylindrical skullcap with tuft on top. chemise gown: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 2. Tall hat similar to fez. C.E.). United Kingdom. Muslin gown with sleeves chechias: Tunisia. Tight-fitting round felt hat. cut full at shoulder and fitted at wrist. Fitted at waist cheesecloth: Loosely woven, plain weave, lightweight where it tied with sash. cotton fabric. Thin and very flimsy. Originally used chemisette: 1. Early Georgian to wrap around pressed cheese. (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late chef’s apron: One-piece apron of canvas, terry, or other Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). heavy fabric. Prussia. Cuirassier’s waist- cheklaton: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic coat. 2. Romantic (1815–1840 (1350–1450 C.E.). Scarlet or gold fabric. C.E.). White muslin or cam- chekmak: Turkey. Silk and cotton blend fabric with bric wrap to fill décolletage gold threads woven into it. of gown. chela: India. Woman’s upper garment. chemisier: France. Shirtwaist. chemisette chele: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fur from marten’s chènbù: China. Lining fabric. throat. cheney: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian chelsea: Flat collar with pointed ends that meet in front (1750–1790 C.E.). Wool or worsted fabric. Possibly in deep V. nickname for Philip and Cheney. : (1960–1970 C.E.). chéng: China. Orange. Man’s ankle-high boot with elas- chenille: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) tic gores on sides. to 20th century. 1. Fringed ribbon used as trim. Chelsea collar: (1960–1970 C.E.). 2. Caterpillar-shaped ornament on carabineer hel- Long-pointed man’s collar. met. 3. Fabric with tufted, velvety pile. chelum: Borneo. Black. chenille blonde: A silk or other light thread lace with : A form of ma- chenille used to outline the geometric pattern. chine embroidery with the pat- chenille embroidery: Velvety embroidery of fine che- Chelsea boot tern worked in a vegetable fiber nille. See also photospread on a silk ground. chenille lace: France. Bobbin lace with silk honeycomb (Foot and Legwear). chemiloon: Woman’s one-piece ground filled in with thick stitches and outlined in combination of chemise and white chenille. drawers. chènkù: China. Underpants. chemise: 1. Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). Long-sleeved chènqún: China. Underskirt or petticoat. undergarment that showed beneath sleeves of wom- chènshan: China. Shirt. en’s garments. 2. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) By chènyí: China. Underclothes. this time, sometimes colored. 3. Crinoline (1840–1865 cheo: Afghanistan. Woman’s long black cotton robe C.E.). Linen, homespun, or cotton knee-length gar- worn pulled up into pouch at waist. 62

cheongsam: American. Oriental chevrette: France. Thin goatskin. style gown ending four to five chevron: Originally a heraldic device, but in the early inches above knee with side slit of 19th century this inverted V motif began to be used eight to ten inches. as part of military ranking notation. chepeneag: Hungary and Roma- chevron de laine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Germany. nia. Overcoat. Introduced in 1878, fine twill weave fabric with every Cherbourg: Crinoline (1840–1865 other line being reverse twill. C.E.). In 1858, silk walking dress cheyne lace: See chain lace. en tablier with checked trim of cheyney: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Worsted or woolen velvet ribbon. It had velvet but- fabric with pattern printed on prior to weaving, cre- tons. ating shadow design. cherkeska: 1. Russia. Circassian chhint: India. . long-waisted outer garment. 2. chi: China. A foot (35 cm). Caucasus. Fitted, front-opening chi fu: China. Manchu imperial robe with a diaper jacket with full skirt and standing pattern. collar. Reaches to mid-thigh. chí hong: Vietnam. Pink thread, the symbol of mar- chermisi: See chermisino. riage. chermisino: Italy. Crimson. chianetta: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Helmet. chernodreshnik: Bulgaria. Men’s chiang chau: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of black dress; trousers that are full America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a raw silk and cheongsam at hips and fitted at knee with cotton fabric with a shiny black surface. It was thin- See also photospread waist-length jacket. ner than sang chau. (Women's Wear). cherry: Bright red color, yellow- chicken: India. Embroidery. ish red in hue. chicken skin glove: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to cherryderry: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Glove made of chicken skin Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). India. Cotton fabric simi- and worn by women to soften and whiten their lar to gingham. hands while they slept. cherusque: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 chickenwalla: India. Itinerant dealer in embroidered C.E.). Lace border on neck of women’s décolleté handkerchiefs, petticoats, etc. gowns or starched lace collarettes of court costume. chicon: India. Fine white embroidered sari fabric. cherusse: See cherusque. chicoree: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Material cherven ruchenik: Bulgaria. Red kerchief worn by cut with edge left raw. newly married woman for first 40 days of marriage. chiffon: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.) to present. Chesterfield overcoat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Man’s Delicate silk barege or grenadine. Now, a very light, fitted overcoat with hidden buttons and velvet collar. sheer, open mesh, plain weave fabric. chestnut: Brown with yellowish tint. chiffon batiste: Very lightweight, sheer batiste. cheval de frise: France. Crisscross dress trim. chiffon crepe: Sheer, light crepe. Chevalier bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1870s, chiffon lace: Chiffon embroidered in silk yarn. bonnet made completely of jet beads. chiffon net: High quality, black silk net. chevaux de frise: See cheval de frise. chiffon taffeta: Quality, lightweight, sheer taffeta that cheveril: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Very flexible kid is soft and lustrous. leather. chiffon velvet: Very soft, lightweight silk pile velvet. chevesaille: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. chifón: Spain. Chiffon. Decorative border on neck of garment. chifón terciopelo: Spain. Chiffon velvet. Cheviot: Germany. Cheviot. chigap: Korea. Purse. cheviot: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Introduced chignon: Knot or mass of hair on back of head. in 1880, soft, shaggy faced, twill weave, wool fabric chignon flottant: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Wom- in tiny stripes and checks. Originally made from an’s hairstyle incorporating ringlets or curls hanging Cheviot sheep. 2. Striped or checked cotton shirting. over back of neck. cheviot tweed: Tweed fabric with diagonally twilled or chignon strap: Band that loops beneath hair in back to chevron pattern. hold woman’s hat in place. chevre: France. Goatskin. chihèsè: China. Russet color. chèvre de Chine: France. Chinese goat fur. chìhóng: China. Crimson. chèvre de Mongolie: France. Mongolia fur. chiiwaun: Thailand. Buddhist monk’s upper garment. chevreau: France. Goatskin. chijimi: Japan. Crepe. chitra 63 : India. Whitework. Chinchilla: Germany. Chinchilla fur. chikara-age: Japan. Shoulder pleat giving uplifting ef- chinchilla cloth: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Thick fect. woolen velvet overcoating fabric. 2. Heavy, tufted ch’ilbo norigae: Korea. Cloisonné pendants. fabric, usually of wool. child’s pudding: Child’s small round hat that hides chin-clout: Elizabeth (1550–1625 C.E.). Large square of padding to protect their skulls. fabric worn over the chin by country women. Chilkat blankets: Canada. Goat hair blankets made by chiné: Fabric in which warp is dyed before weaving, Chilkat Tlingit women. creating mottled appearance. chillo: India. Brightly colored cotton fabric. chinela: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan chillu: See utcu. (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. . chilum: See chelum. Chinese badger: China. Long-haired fur of badger. ch’ima: Korea. Skirt part of national costume. chinese green: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- chimere: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Long, sleeveless dom. Malachite green. ecclesiastical gown in black satin or silk that opened Chinese mink: China. Light yellowish fur of animal down center front. similar to mink. chimi: Bolivia. Two colors blended together. chinese spenser: Directoire and First Empire (1790– chimir: Romania. A 15–25 cm wide leather belt. 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1808, chimney pot hat: Crinoline (1840– woman’s very short jacket or spencer that had two 1865 C.E.). Tall top hat with al- long points in front. most no brim. Worn by men. Chinese Venise: Venetian lace made in China. chimpato: Peru. Colored woolen chingmul: Korea. Generic term for cloth. cords worn woven in a woman’s chinhongsaek: Korea. Scarlet. hair. chinius: Romania. Man’s sleeveless, drugget coat. chimphullani: India. A woman’s chinju: Korea. Pearl. chimney pot hat short skirt. chino: Twill weave cotton fabric, mercerized and San- chimpita: Peru. Narrow chumpi. forized. chin stays: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular in late chinó: Portugal. Chignon; wig. 1820s to late 1830s, frills of tulle or lace on some bon- chint: United States of America. Native American term net strings that made frill around chin when tied. for chintz. China calico: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States chintes: Chintz. of America. Fashionable and affordable fabric im- chintz: Plain weave, brightly colored printed and wax- ported from Calcutta, India. glazed linen. china cola: India. Sleeveless, metal armor, probably of chip hat: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Woman’s hat Chinese origin. woven from thin wooden strips. China cotton: China. Cotton used for comforters and chipana: Peru. Incan wristlets and armlets of gold or . silver. China damask: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in chip’angi: Korea. Walking stick; cane. 1879, two-color cotton damask with palm pattern. chiquetades: See slashings. China gauze: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in chirimen: Japan. Dull luster silk crepe used for blouses, 1878, light colored gauze sprinkled with tufts of silk dresses, and . floss. chirinka: Russia. Square of silk or muslin embroidered China grass: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in in metallic thread or edged in gold fringe or tassels. 1870, plain weave fabric of China grass used for sum- chiripá: . Worn into 20th century. Skirt formed mer waistcoats. by wrapping square woolen blanket around hips. It china patta: India. Chinese silk of a golden color. was held up by sturdy elaborate silver belt. China ribbon: Narrow, inexpensive ribbon. chisamus: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fur of un- China silk: Thin, transparent, plain weave, silk or silk known origin. blend fabric. Sometimes colored and figured. chita: Portugal. Calico. chinacholaka: India. Royal person’s outer garment. chitão: Portugal. Printed cotton; chintz. Chinaseide: Germany. China silk. chite: 1. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). India. Painted Chinaziege: Germany. Chinese goat fur. linen. 2. Romania. Long fringes of colored wool. chinbunhongui: Korea. Cherry colored. chitika: See ruchika. chinchilla: France and Spain. Blue gray fur of South chiton: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Tunic, usually under- American rodent, the Chinchilla brevicaudata. garment, held in position by fibula. chinchillà: Italy. Chinchilla fur. chitra: Sanskrit word for variegated. 64 chitragupita

chitragupita: India. A veil. ch’on: Korea. Cloth. chitta: 1. Iran. Speckled or multicolored cloth. 2. San- chonbok: Korea. Sleeveless out coat worn by scholars. skrit word for spotted cloth. chong er: China. Pearl or piece of jade hung by an ear chitterlings: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Directoire of mian guan. and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. chong kra ben: Laos and Thailand. Manner of draping Linen or lace frills on front of men’s shirts. fabric around the loins like an Indian . chivaret: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 chongbok: Korea. Formal dress. C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Wool fabric. chongjagwan: Korea. Scholar’s three tiered hat. Named chivarras: Mexico. Leggings. for Northern Sung Neo-Confucian scholar, Cheng I chivarros: See chivarras. (1033–1103). chiveret: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian ch’ongsaek: Korea. Blue. (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular woolen fabric. chope: India. A phulkari shawl made by the mater- chlaine: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Wool cloak worn by nal grandmother of a bride for presentation at the shepherds and warriors. wedding. It is embroidered with a double darning chlamus: Greek (3000 B.C.E.–100 B.C.E.). Cloak. stitch so the pattern is identical on both sides of chlamydon: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Short wrap worn the shawl. from right shoulder under left arm. Worn mostly by : Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Usu- women. ally made of cork or wood and chlamys: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Short, light, trapeze- covered with velvet or leather, shaped garment worn draped in various ways. high clogs worn to keep one’s chloene: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Coarse wool garment shoes out of muck and mire. worn hooked on one shoulder and wrapped under Originally worn in the Middle opposite arm. East by women. chlopok: Russia. Cotton. Chorhemd: Germany. Surplice. chobawi: Korea. Woman’s silk hat worn in winter. chorni: India. Pantaloons that are chopines See also photospread choclos: Peru. Silver earrings. tight from the knee down. (Foot and Legwear). chocolat au lait: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1864, ch’oroksaekui: Korea. Green. brown color. chorrock: See Messrock. chocolate: Dark reddish brown. chou: France. Soft rosette or knot of velvet, satin, rib- choga: India. Man’s long sleeved, long skirted cloak that bon, or lace and used as trim on women’s dresses. opened down front and fastened above waist. chóu: China. Silk fabric. choggā: India. Fan-shaped gold jewelry worn on tur- chou hat: France. Hat with soft, crushed crown. bans. chóuduàn: China. Silks and . choggi: Korea. Waistcoat. chouquette: France. Crocheted straw hat. chogon: Korea. Jacket part of national costume. choux: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Woman’s chignon. chogori: Korea. Jacket. chóuzi: China. Silk fabric. choi-ngon: Vietnam. Crown. chrisom: Child’s baptismal gown. choker: 1. High necklace. 2. High stiff neckcloth. chrome leather: Leather tanned in mineral process. chokki: Korea. Man’s vest. chromo embroidery: Embroidery done over colored choksaek: Korea. Red. paper pattern. chokturi: Korea. Bride’s delicate crown that is beaded chrysogaitana: Greek. Type of , usu- and decorated with flowers and small pendants. ally in gold. chol: Korea. Hair bow. chrysolithus: See topazon. chola derby: Bolivia. Woman’s brown, black, or beige chrysoprase: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1869, popular bowler hat. pale green gemstone. cholaka: India. Woman’s transparent, ankle-length, chu: China. Red. white silk garment. See also . chuàn: China. Bracelet. cholana: India. Dhoti worn as shorts. chuandài: China. General term for apparel or dress. cholee: See choli. chuanzhuó: China. General term for apparel or dress. choli: India. Short-sleeved, low cut bodice, usually of chubut wool: Argentina. Fine quality merino wool. cotton. chuca: Peru. Very ordinary fabric. ch’olmo: Korea. Helmet. chu-chu: China. Long chain of 108 stones. Cholo coat: Trade name for short sports coat. chucu: Bolivia. Conical cap. cholst: Russia. Coarse linen cloth. chuda: India. Man’s hair-lock worn on top of head. See chompas: Ecuador. Sweaters. also kesapasa. cinch belt 65 chudamani: India. Crown ornament with pearls. chusta: Poland. Linen cloth. chudan: Korea. Silks and satins. chusteczka: Poland. Handkerchief. chuddah: See chuddar. chustka: Poland. Kerchief. chuddar: India. Mantle or shawl made from strip of cot- chutki: India. Twisted lace overlaid with tiny glass beads. ton cloth three yards long. Worn by men only. chya mun bo: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States chudder: See chuddar. of America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a crude cot- chuði hat trai: Vietnam. Pearl necklace. ton fabric with a twill weave. chuga: India. A knee-length kurta. chymer: See chammer. chugata: Japan. Allover stenciled pattern. chyrpy: Turkey. Women’s cloaks. : India. Coat worn over a tunic by the Kushans. ciabhag: Ireland. Gaelic word for small ringlet or whis- : (1930–1940 C.E.). United States of Amer- ker. ica. Popular for sportswear, almost ankle-high, heavy ciabh-chasta: Ireland. Gaelic word for curled lock of hair. soled boot that tied high on instep. cialdini apron: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced chukker shirt: Short sleeved, open necked polo shirt. in 1862, decorative apron made from gores of gray chuku: See ñañaca. chiné moire. It had a velvet plastron in the center chulja: Korea. Tape measure. with cutouts of horizontal diamonds revealing moire chulla cara: Ecuador. Monochrome poncho. beneath. It was trimmed in black lace and buttons. : 1. Long stocking cap, as long as 18 inches. 2. ciarpa de’ Scozzesi: Italy. Plaid. Bolivia. Pointed with earflaps. ciarsūr: Ireland. Handkerchief. ch’ullu: Bolivia and Peru. Knitted cap. cias: Ireland. Gaelic word for skirt. chullu: See shukina. ciasan: See cias. chumbi: Ecuador and Guatemala. Incan belt. cicilian cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Basket weave chumbi banderilla: Ecuador. Belt used to tie the anaku. mohair, very soft and drapable. chumpi: 1. Peru. Sash. 2. Bolivia and Peru. Belt. cicimus: See chisamus. chun sam: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of cicisbeo: Bow or knot of ribbon used to trim accessories. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a long sleeved ciclaton: See cheklaton. tunic of dark material that opened down the front ciclatoun: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Very rich wo- and fastened with six coral buttons whose heads ven fabric of unknown origin. were made of hard black rubber. It had a tight collar cicuilli: Aztec. Sleeveless jacket. worn flapped down. cidaris: 1. Jewish priest’s . 2. Crown of ancient Per- chunadi: India. Kind of odhni. sian kings. chunari: India. Cotton and silk blend fabric that is tie- ciel blue: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1869, palest sky dyed. tint with silver shimmer. chundadi: India. A veil-cloth. ciemne okulary: Poland. Tinted glasses. chungch’imak: Korea. Long-sleeved robe worn by cifatten: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Ghana. Robes scholars. made from Turkish or Indian cut silk. chungjolmo: Korea. Soft hat; felt hat. ciferšlus: See rajferšlus. chungsanmo: Korea. Derby. cifraszür: Hungary. Decorated szür. chunnat: India. The front pleats of the dhoti. cihrai: India. Flesh colored. chunzhuang: China. Spring clothes. cilice: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Commonly brown chuo: See zhuo. or black, hair shirt worn by monks. chuoi: Vietnam. Necklace. cillāwālī: India. Turban made from two different pieces chupa: 1. Spain. Waistcoat. 2. Tibet. Long, surplice-front of fabrics. robe. cimarosa: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in chupetes: See choclos. 1862, woman’s bonnet with brim of rose silk, crown chupkun: India. Long robe worn by most men. of figured illusion, and neck cape of white blonde. It chuppaun: . Coat or tunic worn by Tartars. was trimmed in rose ribbons and black lace. churajuna: Ecuador. Quichua traditional dress. cimds: Lithuania. Glove. churna-kuntala: India. Curled ringlets of hair. cimeira: Portugal. Crest of a helmet. churridah: India. Woman’s silk or cotton leggings. cimier: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Ornament on top chusi: Peru. Very thick and coarse fabric. of helmet. Also referred to the helmet itself. chuspa: Peru. Shoulder bag. See also alforja. cina: India. A silk from China. ch’uspa: Bolivia. Incan coca bag. cinamsuka: India. Silk from China. ch’úspa: Ecuador and Guatemala. Incan small bag for cinch belt: (1940–1949 to 1950–1959 C.E.). Wide belt of carrying coca leaves. elastic or cloth, worn very tight. 66 cīnctus

cīnctus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Man’s belt. See circassian bodice: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United also balteus. Kingdom. Woman’s bodice in folds from shoulders cinctus gabinus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Garment and crossing waist. for solemn occasions. circassian hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 cinde kenanga: Java. A batik pattern. C.E.). Introduced in 1806, woman’s hat similar to cinde : Java. A batik pattern. gipsy hat but with fanciful crown. cinde wilis: Java. A batik pattern. circassian sleeve: Directoire and First Empire (1790– cînduse: Romania. Woman’s low-necked, black woolen 1815 C.E.). Worn by children in 1807, short sleeve frock. that looped up in front. cineflone: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Slave who used circassian wrapper: Directoire and First Empire (1790– a curling iron on women’s heads. 1815 C.E.). Similar to night chemise. Very low bodice cineraire: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Red purple. and sleeves of stripes of alternating fabrics. cingătoare: Romania. Belt. : Twilled lining fabric originally made of cingillum: Roman (53 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Woman’s belt. mohair, later of rayon or cotton and wool. cingle: Girdle; sash; belt. circassienne gown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). cingulum: 1. See cīnctus. 2. Early Gothic (1200–1350 Variation of polonaise gown with double sleeves. C.E.). Band or belt worn by women under their circingle: Girdle worn over cassock. breasts or by men to tuck up skirt for exercise. circular: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Ankle-length cape cingulum militare: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Man’s lined with squirrel fur, fancy flannel, or surah silk. broad hip belt of metal plaquettes that were jointed circumfolding hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United or mounted on leather. Sword worn suspended from Kingdom. Worn in 1830s, man’s round, low-crowned this belt. dress hat that folded flat to carry under arm. cingulum militiae: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Mili- ciré: A heavy, lustrous lace usually sold as a wide tary waist-belt. Term rarely used before third century flouncing. C.E. ciruela: Spain. Plum. cini: India. Chinese blue. ciselé velvet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1876, cinnamon: Grayish brown. fabric with satin ground and raised pattern in velvet. cinnteagan: Ireland. Gaelic word for coarse cloth. čist: See bijel. cinta: 1. Spain. Ribbon. 2. Spain. Hat band. 3. Ecuador. citra-kapardaka: India. Either a printed calico or a fig- Band worn woven around a woman’s hair. 4. Portu- ured fabric. gal. Girdle; sash. citravastra: India. A patterned cloth. cintaliga: Portugal. Garter belt. citrine: Yellow or yellowish green color, like a lemon. cinto: 1. Spain. Waistband. 2. Portugal. Girdle. citron: Greenish yellow. cintura: Italy. Girdle. cittalam: India. A type of variegated fabric. cinturão: Portugal. Wide sash or belt. ciupag: Bulgaria. Woman’s short jacket. cinturón: Spain. Belt. civet cat: Hide of the Spilogale putorius, a member of the cinzento: Portugal. Gray. skunk family but with a white patterned coat. cioda: Croatia and Serbia. Pin. civette: France. Fur of the civet cat. ciolar: Ireland. Gaelic word for linsey-woolsey. cizma: Croatia and Serbia. Boot. ciondolino: See orecchino. cizmă: Romania. Boot. cioppa: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Full over- clabaran: Ireland. Gaelic word for . gown with hanging sleeves which were often lined clac: Spain. Gibus. with fur or silk. It often had rich fur around facings. clach-mhara: Ireland. Gaelic word for an aquamarine. ciorap: Romania. Stocking. claidheamh-mor: Scotland. Great sword. ciotag: Ireland. Gaelic word for little scarf. clair de lune: Color ranging from pale greenish blue to cipcic: Romania. Woman’s small cap. lavender gray. cipela: 1. See obuca. 2. Poland. Shoe. clann: Ireland. Gaelic word for lock of hair. cipka: Croatia and Serbia. Lace. clap: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). cipky: See krajky. United Kingdom. Garment for both genders. çipsip: Turkey. Woman’s indoor slippers. clāp: United Kingdom. Old English word for cloth. cīra: India. Kind of odhni. clapes: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). cirb: Ireland. Gaelic word for skirt. United Kingdom. Term for clothes. circas: Germany. Cassimere. clāpes: United Kingdom. Old English word for cloth- circassian: Wool and cotton fabric with diagonal ing. See also rēaf. weave. claque: Collapsible hat. cnap 67 clarence: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. soled shoe or sandal with leather upper. Originally Man’s boot with triangular gusset of soft leather and developed to protect inner shoe from elements. 2. See eyelets for lacing. mantell. clarence blue: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). clòimh: Ireland. Wool. Introduced in 1811, color similar to Cambridge blue. cloissoné: Form of enameling. claret: Claret wine color. cloth: Rough, canvaslike, basket weave drapery Clarissa Harlowe bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). fabric. United Kingdom. Woman’s large bonnet of leghorn cloke: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) straw and lined with velvet. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Clarissa Harlowe corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Cloak. United Kingdom. Woman’s evening dress with off- clokey: United States. Cloque. the-shoulder neckline and short sleeves with two or cloky: See clokey. three lace falls. cloqué: France. Having appearance of being blistered. clavi: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Purple bands that close cap: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Small cap, vertically decorated tunics of Roman dignitaries. similar to baby cap, worn by women and children. clavos: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Aglets. Elderly men often wore version of linen, lace, silk, clawhammer tails: Directoire and First Empire (1790– brocade, or velvet. 1815 C.E.). Man’s coat with straight cutaway front close-gauntlet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). A mitten and very long tails in back. gauntlet with a latch to attach the finger-ends to the Clay worsted: United Kingdom. Heavy fabric with di- cuff so as to make the hand’s grasp unbreakable. agonal weave. clot: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan (1550– cleachd: Ireland. Gaelic word for ringlet of hair. 1625 C.E.). Heavy shoe soled in iron commonly worn cleachdag: See cleachd. by laborers. clearc: Ireland. Gaelic word for lock of hair or bright : Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to present. yellow colored. Material woven with a warp of real gold theatre and cleòc: Ireland. Mantle or cloak. a weft of silk. Occasionally, both are cleòca Gaidhealach: Scotland. Inverness cape. of gold. cleòcan: Ireland. Scarf. cloth rash: See rash. cleopatra: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, a clothe: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to magenta color. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. To cliabh: Ireland. Gaelic word for straightjacket. clothe or dress. cliabhan-ceangail: Ireland. Gaelic word for bodice. clotidienne: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in clinquant: France. To glitter, as with gold or silver. 1833, ribbon striped satin. cloak: Loose outer wrap. cloud: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1870s, woman’s long cloak-bag breeches: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). scarf worn as outdoor headdress for evening. United Kingdom. Men’s trousers cut very full and clouded cane: See Malacca cane. gathered above knee. Decorated with points or rib- clouded lustrings: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Lus- bon rosette or bow. tring with pale patterns on it. clōca: Ireland. Cloak. See also brat. clove: United Kingdom. Measure of fabric, 7.7 pounds. cloche: (1920–1930 C.E.). Close- cluas-sheud: Ireland. Gaelic word for ear jewel. fitting, bell-shaped hat. clubwig: See cadogan. cloche de feutre: France. Felt cloche. : Bobbin lace of heavy ivory linen or cotton cloche de fieltro: Spain. Felt cloche. thread in paddle or wheel pattern. cloche di feltro: Italy. Felt cloche. cluthachadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for clothing. clock: 1. Triangular insertion in cly: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Common term for garment to widen it at that point. pocket. cloche 2. Originally, embroidery to cover clytie knot: Woman’s hairstyle involving hair being ar- seams of clock insertion; later ranged in loose knot at nape of neck, in style of bust it meant embroidery on ankles, of Clytie, Greek nymph. gored or not. cnaep: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Fas- clock-mutch: Holland. Cap worn tener, brooch, or button. by women. cnàimh-deud: Ireland. Ivory. clœp: See clāp. cnaipe: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). : 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 Ireland. Button. clog C.E.) to 20th century. Wooden cnap: Ireland. Gaelic word for button. 68 cnapan-trusgaidh

cnapan-trusgaidh: Ireland. Gaelic word for button. cobhrach: Ireland. Gaelic word for foam white. cneaball: Ireland. Gaelic word for garter of thrums coburg: Wool and cotton twill weave fabric. worn tied around the hose. Coburg bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1816, cneap: See cnap. soft crowned bonnet that tied under chin. cneap-tholl: Ireland. Gaelic word for buttonhole. Coburg cap: Woman’s cap with high crown of silver cnemides: Armor of shaped hide or bronze. tissue. Popular at . cnemis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Leather, brass, or cobweb lawn: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Around bronze protective leggings worn by soldiers. 1600, very fine transparent lawn. cô’ con: Vietnam. Detachable collar. cocar: Portugal. Rosette. cô’ tay: Vietnam. Cuff. cocarde: France. Rosette or ornament of ribbon worn coachman’s coat: Heavy double-breasted coat with on hat. In French Revolution, became national party large metal buttons. symbol called cockade. coācta: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Felt. coccarda: Italy. Cockade. coalman’s hat: Felt hat with deep fantail in back. coccum: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). 1. The color scarlet. 2. coalscuttle bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– Scarlet fabric. 1815 C.E.). Woman’s bonnet with huge shovel-like cochall: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). brim in front. Ireland. Elbow-length, closely cowled or hooded coamery: Isle of Man. Long, circular, homespun mantle. mantle made from many pieces of fabric. coat shirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United King- : 1. Red dye made from bodies of . 2. dom. Man’s shirt that opened and Bright yellowish red. buttoned down front. See also tu- cochinilla: Ecuador. Quichua word for cochineal. nic shirt. cochl: See mantell. coat-bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 cochlach: Ireland. Gaelic word for hairlace. C.E.). In 1880s, woman’s day cochull: Ireland. Gaelic word for cowl. bodice with long basques, high cockade: See cocarde. neck, outside pockets, and but- cockers: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle tons down front. Pleats in back (1865–1890 C.E.). 1. Rough knee-high boot worn by like man’s frock coat. laborers, shepherds, and countrymen. 2. Leggings coat-dress: (1960–1970 C.E.). Tai- that buckle or button and strap under foot. lored dress with pockets and clo- cockle: 1. Shell worn by pilgrims on travels. 2. Ringlet sures similar to those found on or curl. outerwear. It was often made of cockle hat: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- fabrics similar to those used in dom. Hat with scallop shell on it to symbolize men’s suits. pilgrimage to shrine of St. James of Compostella in : Directoire and First Em- Spain. pire (1790–1815 C.E.). In 1802, cocktail apron: Decorative half apron of purely decora- short coat or spencer. tive nature. coating velvet: Silk or rayon vel- : (20th century). Party dress for late after- coat-dress vet with closely woven pile, so noon. See also photospread tight that when folded no break in cocoa: Dark brown, slightly lighter than chocolate. (Women's Wear). pile is observable. cocrez: See cockers. Dover Publications coatlet: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 cocuzzolo o cupola: Italy. Hat crown. C.E.). United Kingdom. In 1899, a woman’s velvet coda: India. A cadar. or fur short coat with fan-shaped collar with large codiarte: Guatemala. Man’s long wool tunic. revers. Sometimes frogged and braided. codini: Italy. Large carved bead of coral used in jewelry. coat-sleeve: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Codovec: Trade name for beaver hat. Woman’s sleeve cut like the sleeve of a man’s coat, codpiece: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles I i.e., straight, tubular with slight curve at elbow and (1625–1660 C.E.). Stuffed fabric appendage at front narrowing at wrist. In 1870s, often worn with mouse- opening of men’s hose. quetaire cuff. cod-: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Geor- coazzone: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Wide gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Term meaning front opening braid or roll of hair, sometimes with ribbon woven in men’s breeches. into it, that hung down back. codrington: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- cobalt blue: Medium greenish blue color. dom. Man’s single- or double-breasted wrapper or cobceab: Clog-like shoe. loose overcoat resembling Chesterfield. coiffure Louis Trieze 69 coeffes: France. Coifs. bangs, shoulder curls, and back knot. Named for cœppe: See hœtt. l’Eclos, Parisian leader of fashion. coeur de melon: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, coiffure à la Pomone: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In color of the inside of a melon. 1854, diadem headdress of fruits and leaves. coffer headdress: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Wom- coiffure à la qu’ es aco: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). an’s box-shaped headdress worn with hair braided France. In 1774, woman’s hair fashion that included on each side of head. three plumes at back of the head. cofia: Spain. Coif. coiffure à la Reine: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). cofia de tranzado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. France. Woman’s hairstyle. Woman’s headdress consisting of a tube worn over coiffure à la zazzera: France. Man’s hairstyle with ends the braid and attached to the cap. curled under. cofta: Romania. Skirt. coiffure à l’Agnes Sorel: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) cogā: India. Angaraklh that reaches to below the knees. to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Popular from coggers: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Romantic 1836 to 1849, woman’s hairstyle with bangs in front (1815–1840 C.E.). Men’s stiff leather gaiters that but- and a knot on back. toned up side and had strap under instep. coiffure à l’anglomane: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). cogware: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coarse fabric France. Woman’s hairstyle arranged in exaggerated similar to frieze. English style. čoha: Croatia. Richly embroidered, long coat of light, coiffure à l’enfant: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). pulled woolen white wool. It had tapered sleeves and France. Woman’s hairstyle. a widened with gores. It was worn over the coiffure à l’indisposition: Directoire and First Empire shoulders. It fastened on the chest with leather straps. (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Woman’s fancy cap made coif: Small fitted cap worn by both genders. of lace and muslin worn around 1812. coif cooil corran: Isle of Man. Sickle-shaped coif worn coiffure au chien couchant: Late Georgian (1750–1790 by older women. C.E.). France. Literally, “like a recumbent dog,” a coif-de-mailles: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coif of hairstyle with two large curls on sides that reached mail. down to the shoulders. coiffe: France. Headdress. coiffure Egyptienne: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In coiffette: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Skull-cap of 1857, woman’s headdress made from two bandeaux iron worn by soldiers. of groseille colored velvet embroidered with gold. coiffure à la Ceres: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, Had lotus flower on one side and bow on other, diadem of small flowers. decorated with hieroglyphics. coiffure à la Chinoise: Directoire and First Empire coiffure en bouffons: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Woman’s hairstyle with hair drawn (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Woman’s hairstyle with to topknot. Loose curls hung on each side of the face. tufts of crimped hair over temples and fringe (gar- coiffure à la conseillere: Late Georgian (1750–1790 cette) over forehead. C.E.). France. Hairstyle in which top is curled and coiffure en cadenettes: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). rest falls straight in back and in large curls on sides. France. Hairstyle worn by both genders with lock of Unpowdered and left its natural color. hair wound in ribbons that fell on either side of face. coiffure à la Dauphine: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). 2. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Man’s hairstyle in France. Hairstyle with four large curls at sides to frame which two long locks were held in back with ribbon. back hair. Named for wig style worn by Dauphin. coiffure en chien couchant: Late Georgian (1750–1790 coiffure à la Eurydice: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). C.E.). France. Woman’s hairstyle. France. Woman’s hairstyle. coiffure en moulin à vent: Late Georgian (1750–1790 coiffure à la Flore: 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). C.E.). France. Woman’s hairstyle. France. Woman’s hairstyle. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 coiffure en parterre galant: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). In 1854, crown of brightly colored flowers. C.E.). France. Woman’s hairstyle. coiffure à la herisson: See hedgehog haindo. coiffure en raquette: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). coiffure à la Junon: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Supported by a hoop, a woman’s hairstyle France. Woman’s hairstyle. with hair swept up around the face and puffed over coiffure à la moutonne: France. Restoration (1660–1700 temples. C.E.). Woman’s hairstyle with bangs and bobbed and coiffure Eugenie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. crimped hair on the sides. In 1860, green velvet foliage diadem trimmed with coiffure à la Ninon: France. Elizabethan (1500–1625 daisies and ornaments of gold. C.E.). France. Woman’s hairstyle with short ringlet coiffure Louis Trieze: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 70 coiffure Maintenon

France. In 1860, mauve velvet toque trimmed with colier: Romania. Necklace. See also ghiordan. amethyst and white ostrich feather. collana: Italy. Necklace. coiffure Maintenon: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In collar: Spain. Necklace. 1863, toufet of short curls atop the head, ringlets be- collar à la Vandyke: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Gui- hind ears, back hair in bow or puffs. pere lace collar worn tied close at throat. coiffure Zouave: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1860, collar canvas: Fabric used in theatrical corset. green velvet and gold trim on bandeau of white os- collar of esses: Decorative collar made of interlocking trich feathers. S designs. coilēar: Ireland. Collar. collar velvet: Thick velvet with short pile used for vel- coileir: Ireland. Gaelic word for collar or necklace. vet collars on overcoats. coilichin: Ireland. Gaelic word for large cravat or muf- collare: See collo. fler. Colleen Bawn cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to coin de feu: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Intro- Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular from 1850 to 1867, duced in 1848, woman’s wide sleeved short coat that white grenadine cloak with large cape that was sup- closed at neck. Made of velvet, cashmere, or silk and ported by rosettes in back. worn indoors. collerette: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). cointise: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic France. Ruff of lace or cotton, part of historical re- (1350–1450 C.E.). France. To be extreme or unusual vival movement. in fashion. collet: See col; guleron. coire: Ireland. Gaelic word for ring or girdle. collet monte: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– cōirighim: Ireland. To clothe or to dress. 1660 C.E.). France. Linen collar with card or tin base. cojin para hacer puntilla: Spain. Lace-pillow. See also rotonde. cokar: India. Close-fitting gold necklace with pearls on it. colletin: 1. Vestment cloth worn around neck by coke: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. priests in Catholic Church. 2. Late Gothic (1350–1450 Nickname for the bowler, so called for William Coke C.E.).Piece of plate armor worn over shoulders and who first commissioned the hat. around neck. cokers: See cockers. colletto: See collo. col: France. Collar. colley-westonward: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to cola: India. A young girl’s tunic. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Term colaka: See cola. meaning gone awry, referring to fashion of wearing colan: Romania. Woman’s belt. sideways on the body. colar: Portugal. Necklace. collier: 1. France. Collar-like necklace. 2. See halsketting. colar de pérolas: Portugal. String of pearls. collier de chien: Dog collar–style necklace. colbac: Spain. Busby. collo: Italy. Collar. colbacco: Italy. Busby. collodion silk: See artificial silk. colback: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). colmar: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. Fan Drum-shaped military hat covered in fur with laced fashionable during reign of Queen Anne (1702–1714 crown. Often had plume in front. C.E.). Colbert embroidery: France. Embroidery with worked colobium: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Sleeveless background outlining unworked designs. tunic. 2. Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). Similar to Greek colberteen: See colbertine. kolobus, made of linen or wool and sewn on sides colbertine: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– and at the shoulder. Occasionally it was sewn all in 1660 C.E.) to Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Coarse one piece. French lace named for J.B. Colbert, Minister of Fi- colonial pump: (1900–1910 C.E.). New name for the nance. Unpopular by mid-18th century. Molière. colcha de renda: Portugal. Bertha. color aceitung: Spain. Olive. colchete: Portugal. Hook and eye. colorado: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Red. 2. coler: 1. Wales. Collar. 2. Byzantine and Romanesque Ecuador and Guatemala. Red. (400–1200 C.E.) to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United colorante acido: Spain. Acid dye. Kingdom. Middle English word for collar or necklace. colori corozoso: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. colera: Mexico. Man’s open-front vest made from two Mourning colors which were dull dark colors, shades widths of red and white striped fabric. Embroidered of mulberry, blue, green, brown, and black. and fringed. Colson: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1859, poile de colête: Portugal. Waistcoat. chevre dress with plain, round corsage and plain, coli: India. Short jacket. very full skirt. cool pants 71 coltrui: Holland. Polo necked sweater. condra: Hungary. Man’s jacket of homespun fabric. Columbine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, richly conejo: Spain. Rabbit fur. embroidered mantilla trimmed with seven inch netted coney: Nickname for rabbit fur. fringe. It was trimmed down center front with double confezione: Italy. Tailored clothing. row of silk puffing and had a waist knot. Collar and confidents: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). 1. Small curls cuffs were of embroidered cambric and edged in . of hair by the ears. 2. Silk hood that tied under the comadreja: Spain. Weasel. chin. comadreja de Siberia: Spain. Kolinsky fur. congbái: China. Very light blue. combed helmet: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United conglù: China. Pale yellowish green. Kingdom. Cloth-covered cork helmet with a raised congo: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1883, a rich burnished spine running from the top down the back. It had a coppery gold. lightly curved brim like a bowler. Congo cloth: Trade name for all rayon fabric. combinations: Gay Nineties congo red: First direct cotton colors, discovered in 1884 (1890–1900 C.E.). United King- by Boettigen. dom. Several varieties of wom- congress gaiter: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Ankle-high an’s underwear made in one piece boot with leather or cloth top and elastic gusset in the were so called: chemise-drawers- sides instead of laces. pantaloons (1892), pantaloon-pet- congress shoe: See congress gaiter. ticoat (1897), and bodice-panta- connaught: Cotton foundation fabric used for embroi- loon-petticoat (1898). dery. comboy: 1. Ceylon. Long, conque: See conch. wrapped, colorful skirt worn by considerations: See panniers. both men and women as part of Constance: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States national dress. 2. India. Skirt or of America. In May, 1860, seven flounced spring of white calico. dress. comforter: Crinoline (1840–1865 constitution cord: Very heavy corded cotton fabric. See C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn also cable cord. from 1840s, man’s wool scarf constitutionals: See constitution cord. combinations worn wrapped around neck in contado: Mexico. Zoque Indian counted embroidery. cold weather. Continental: (1950–1960 C.E.). Man’s hairstyle. comforts: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). continental hat: See androsame. United Kingdom. In 1800, double soled sandals. contoushe: See kontush. còmhdach: Ireland. Generic term for clothing. cloth: Solid color, plain weave woolen fabric comh-dhualadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for embroidery. once used for nun’s apparel. com-le: Vietnam. Suit of clothes. conversation bonnet: Directoire and First Empire comley: See kambala. (1790–1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Fashionable commode: See fontanges. in 1807, chip bonnet with flaring brim. Usually common dress: See undress. lined with silk that matched the ribbon trim which common gingham: Coarse gingham. went around crown and tied in bow on top of the comperes: France. Small false front on the front of bod- bonnet. ice suggesting a waistcoat. conversation hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790– cô’n bào: Vietnam. Imperial robe. 1815 C.E.). Fashionable in 1803, woman’s hat similar concertina cloth: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In to the conversation bonnet but with brim wrapping 1892, a corded silk fabric with silk shot through it. around entire hat. conch: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Full- convertible collar: Straight collar, made to be worn up length wrap with wired standing collar. 2. Elizabethan or down. (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Shell-shaped, gauze or crepe convertible jumper: Sleeveless dress worn in different hat built on a tin frame worn primarily by widows. ways: with sweater for , with blouse for conch hat: Hat of palmetto leaves. day wear, and alone for evening. concha: Belt worn by both Navajo men and women. convolvulus: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.) In 1895, a Made of silver ornaments on leather strap. shade of purple. conchiglie cipree: Italy. Cowries. cony: Rabbit skin. conciu: Romania. 1. Woman’s finely embroidered head- cool gown: China. Song dynasty. Gown used as every- dress. 2. Knot of plaited hair worn on crown of head. day dress by officials; later a mourning gown. 3. Band around which woman’s hair is gathered. cool pants: See hot pants. 72 coolie hat

coolie hat: Usually made of wo- Coraline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In November, ven straw, a round, widely coni- 1859, highly decorated mantle of black cloth with cal hat. square sleeves. coomassie: Bustle (1865–1890 coramo: India. Pajama. C.E.). In 1875, new gray color. coranā: India. Narrow trousers. coothay: India. Striped satin fabric. corano: India. Trousers cut loose to the knee and fitted copa: 1. Sides of crown of hat. 2. below the knee. Spain. Hat crown. corazza: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Worn after 1845, copatain: Elizabethan (1550–1625 man’s cambric or cotton fitted shirt that buttoned C.E.). Hat with high conical down back. 2. Italy. . 3. See pettabotta. coolie hat crown. corbata: Spain. Necklace; necktie. cope: Liturgical vestment in Catholic Church; embroi- corbata ascot: Spain. Ascot. dered or brocaded semicircular cape that fastens corbeau: France. Very dark green, almost black in color. across chest with wide ornamental band. Vestigial corchete: Spain. Hook and eye; hook. hood in back. corcuir: Ireland. Gaelic word for red color or purple Copenhagen blue: Medium light grayish blue. colored. cophia: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Coif of mail. corcur: Ireland. Gaelic word for scarlet. copitank: See copitain. corcurachd: Ireland. Gaelic word for purple. copotain: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Woman’s hat corde du Roi: France. . with high crown and small brim. Revived 1640–1665 cordeliere: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. as sugarloaf. Long chain which hung from girdle and held small copper: Brown with yellowish red tint. items. Worn by women. Also, knotted girdle worn by coppo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Skull of a Franciscan friars. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- helm or helmet. duced in 1846, silk and wool blend fabric. copricappa: Sardinia. Cape. cordellate: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Gro- coq: See coque. gram. 2. Peru. Coarse wool fabric used for trousers coquard: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Worn by Swiss and blankets. and German , satin cap with plumes. cordero: Spain. Lamb. coque: France. 1. Loop or looped bow of ribbon used as cordero del Rusia: Karakul. trim. 2. Long, iridescent, black and green feathers of cordero del Tibet: Spain. Tibet lamb. rooster used as trim on hats. cordero mongoliano: Spain. Mongolia fur. coquearde: Tuft of rooster feathers. cordey cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 coquelicot: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from 1795 to 1799, blood red. woman’s large crowned hat with wide lace brim that coqueluche: France. Hood or cowl. was trimmed with or ribbon bows. coquette: Decorative patch worn on lips. cordobán: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Goatskin. coquillage: France. Trim resembling shells. cordoban leather: Goatskin, tanned simply. coquille: France. Edging or ruching in shell shape. cordões de sapatos: Portugal. Shoelace. coquillicot feathers: Directoire and First Empire (1790– cordon: Decorative cord, lace, or braid used as a fasten- 1815 C.E.). United States. Stiff bunch of rooster feath- ing or to indicate rank. ers used as hat trim in 1802. cordon de soulier: France. Shoelace. cor: Portugal. Brown. See also castanho. cordon de zapatos: Spain. Shoelace. cor de laranja: Portugal. Orange. cordoncillo con alma: Spain. Gimp. cor de rosa: Portugal. The color rose. cordonero: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Passe- Cora mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In October, 1859, menterie maker. silk or poplin mantle made in imitation of the . cordoni: Greece. A woman’s chest ornament of multiple coracinus color: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Black wool. chains from which hang medallions, coins, and orna- coraco Eugenie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, ments. lightweight fabric jacket. cordonnet: Raised edge of military braid. coral: Medium bright red orange. cordouan: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Black coral currant button: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United or colored soft leather. Kingdom. Used after 1845, currant-shaped, coral but- cordovan: Dark reddish brown. ton used on men’s waistcoats. Cordovan: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, wom- Coralie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, woman’s an’s cloth cloak with velvet passementerie and but- crocheted basket-shaped purse. tons of same. corsage en Fourreau 73 corduroy: Plain or twill weave, cut pile fabric with wide : Dainty folds in front of nun’s hat. or narrow wales. coron: Ireland. Gaelic word for crown or coronet. cordwain: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Cordovan or coron Muire: Ireland. Gaelic word for of beads. Spanish leather. coron òir: Ireland. Crown of gold. cordy: Felt hat. corona: 1. Circlet or fillet, often of gold, worn as part of cordyback hat: See caudebec hat. ecclesiastical . 2. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). corinna: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in 1837, Crown or garland awarded for distinguished service. richly flowered silk fabric. corona etrusca: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Wreath corinth blue: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Color of cala- of gold leaves, set with jewels and tied with ribbons mine. that was held over the head of a general when mak- corinthe green: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Light green. ing his triumphal entry into . corium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). 1. Leather. 2. Up- corona muralis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Band of per body leather made of overlapping scales or flaps gold with turreted upper edge awarded for bravery of leather. in siege. cork rump: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United corona navalis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Gold Kingdom. Woman’s bustle made from pad stuffed band decorated with ship prows awarded for naval with cork. service to the Empire. corked shoes: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- corona radiata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Headdress than (1550–1625 C.E.). Women’s shoes with - of divinity suggesting rays of the sun. shaped cork heels. coronal: Coronet; crown. corking pins: Large pins used to hold hair in place. coronation braid: Filled cotton cord. cornalia: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Jewish wom- coronet: Byzantine and Romansque (400–1200 C.E.). an’s pointed veil. See also cornu. Ornamental circlet worn on head. corned shoe: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United corozoso: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Dark mourning Kingdom. Wide-toed shoe. colors of mulberry, blue, brown, green, and black. corner cap: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restora- corp a baleine: See corps piqué. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Cap with three or four corners corpetto: Italy. Bodice. worn with academic or ecclesiastical dress. corpiño: 1. Peru. Sleeveless vest. 2. Spain. Bodice. cornet: 1. Long point of a hood. 2. Renaissance (1450– corps piqué: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Geor- 1550 C.E.). Woman’s cap with point on top. 3. Eliza- gian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Fitted quilted camisole bethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 with busk of varnished wood to stiffen it. In 17th and C.E.). Woman’s linen headdress. 18th centuries, whaleboned underbodice that laced cornet hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 and was held in position with shoulder straps. Re- C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s hat with gathered placed in late 18th century by a corset. crown and narrow brim. corredo: Italy. Trousseau. cornet skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United correia articulada: Portugal. Chain belt. Kingdom. In 1892, a woman’s day skirt with slightly corr-léine: Ireland. Shirt of armor. gored front section measuring 40 inches at hem and corsage: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). darted at waist. Back was cut on bias and trained in Snug, sleeveless jacket worn over . Resembles semicircle. a corset. Worn by women. 2. Small bouquet of flow- : 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Long ers worn pinned on woman’s bosom. 3. France. pendant strips of fabric like English liripipe and tip- Woman’s jacket. pet. 2. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). corsage à la Maintenon: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to France. Woman’s bonnet with gathered crown and Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Worn from 1836 brim worn turned down. Worn tied under chin with to 1849, shaped bodice with ribbon knots down cen- small ribbon bow. ter front. cornette à la Diane: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. corsage à la vierge: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Austro- Worn in 1815, small bonnet with crescent-shaped Hungarian Empire. Term for bertha. front. corsage en corset: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crino- cornflower: Medium purplish blue. line (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Worn from 1836 to corno: Italy. Tall conical felt hat worn by Venetian 1849, fitted evening bodice with seams similar to doges. those in corset. cornu: Italy. Venetian doge’s brocade, satin, or velvet corsage en Fourreau: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to cap. See also cornalia. present. Style of the bodice in one with the coroa: Portugal. Crown; wreath. skirt by a central panel at the back. 74 corse corse: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). straps were added, and in 1840, single instep strap Snug, sleeveless jacket made of leather or metal remained. disks. Worn over man’s tunic or bliaut. 2. Spain. Cor- cossas: India. Plain cotton fabric. set. 3. Italy. Corset. costeleta: Portugal. Sideburns. corselet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Piece of armor costume á la Constitution: Directoire and First Empire covering torso. (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Dress of red, white, and corset: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Long or short blue striped or flowered fine lawn or muslin. Worn sleeveless surcoat worn by men. 2. Late Gothic with red sash and helmet-shaped cap. (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). costume au grand Figaro: Late Georgian (1750–1790 Woman’s gown that laced in front and was fur lined C.E.). France. Woman’s short jacket cut in man’s style for winter. 3. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late and waistcoat-like bodice worn with sash. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Bodice, with or without costureira: Portugal. Dressmaker. sleeves, supported by two busks. 4. Directoire and costureiro: Portugal. Ladies’ tailor. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) to 20th century. Boned cot: 1. Guatemala. ; blouse or tunic. 2. Wales. Coat. bodice whose shape varied depending on vagaries cota: See casaco. of fashion. còta: Ireland. Petticoat. corset batiste: Stout, plain weave fabric, sometimes con- còta biorach dubh: Ireland. Black, tailed coat; morning taining an elastic weft. coat. corset cover: Garment worn to cóta coirí: Ireland. Bride’s red petticoat. Worn on spe- cover corset. cial occasions throughout her life. corset dress: Fetish dress laced còta de chadadh nam ball: Ireland. Coat of spotted like a corset. It hobbles the wearer. tartan. corset frock: Directoire and First còta-ban: Ireland. Flannel petticoat. Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Wom- còta-bhioran: Ireland. Knitted petticoat. corset cover an’s dress with corset-shaped còta-cathdath: Ireland. Tartan coat. Dover Publications bodice with three gores on each còta-craicinn: Ireland. Skin coat. side of the breast, short sleeves, còta-fada: Ireland. Frock coat. and short skirt. Laced up the back with white silk còta-gearr: Ireland. Short, tartan or scarlet coat with cord. short cutaway tail. corset lace: Narrow tape used for lacing corsets. còta-glas: Ireland. Gray coat. corset waist: United States of America. Long-line bra. còta-goirid: Ireland. Jacket. corsetka: Ukraine. Woman’s three-quarter-length, fit- còta-uisge: Ireland. Waterproof coat. ted, sleeveless jacket that fastens to one side. cotan: Ireland. Cotton. Corsican tie: See Napoleon necktie. còtan: Ireland. 1. Little petticoat. 2. Little coat. corso: India. Type of odhni. cote: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Long corte: Guatemala. Wraparound skirt; skirt length. tunic with sleeve cut in one with garment. Length cós: Portugal. Waistband of a garment. varied from calf to foot. cosar: Ireland. Gaelic word for coat or mantle. cote à armer: France. Surcoat. cosetto: See corse. cote de Cheval: France. Corded fabric with characteris- cosh-boy: (1950–1960 C.E.). Teddy boy. tic warp rib used to make riding costumes. cossack cap: Russia. Tall, brimless, cur or lamb’s wool cote de Genève: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, light cap worn by Cossacks. rep. cossack hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 cotehardie: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renais- C.E.). United States of America. Introduced in 1812, sance (1450–1550 C.E.). Long gown that opened woman’s hat with helmet-shaped crown, turned in front with full-cut sleeves, sometimes hanging back brim edged in pearls, and small bunch of feath- sleeves. Also referred to as dressing gown. ers on one side. côtelé: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1865, cossack trousers: Very full trousers worn by various thick ribbed silk. 2. Spain. Corduroy. mounted troops. cotelé fino: Spain. Pin corduroy. cossacks: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) cotelette: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1881, to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. stocking-woven wool without stretch. Worn from 1814 to around 1850, men’s trousers that cotelettes: See cotellae. pleated onto a waistband and tied around ankles coteline: 1. Thin white fabric, often corded. 2. Bustle with ribbon drawstring. Initially baggy, but by 1820 (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1886, faille and wool no longer needed drawstrings. In 1830, double instep blend in black. couvre-chef 75 cotellae: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Sideless gown. ized yarns, usually in woven stripe. coteron: Little coat. cotton velvet: See velvet. cothurnes: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Calf-high boot fa- cottonade: Stout, twill weave, cotton fabric used for vored by huntsmen; a shoe with very thick cork sole trousers and cheap suiting. worn by actors to make them appear taller. cottonette: Cotton and wool blend fabric. cotillion: Black and white striped fabric. còt’-uachdair: Ireland. Overcoat. còt’-iochdair: Ireland. 1. Undercoat. 2. Under petticoat. cotun: Ireland. Gaelic word for coat of mail. cotla-gearr: Scotland. Highlander’s single-breasted, cut- coturno: Portugal. Buskin. away jacket worn with or without vest. Day version cotwm: Wales. Cotton. of tweed or worsted. stitch: Straight or slanted tight stitch used to cotón: 1. Mexico. Sleeved shirt or tunic. 2. France. Cot- achieve raised effect. ton. 3. Peru. Woman’s large, long back smock with couchouc: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1820s, India long sleeves. 4. See cotoun. rubber used for garters and stays. cotone: Italy. Cotton. coudières: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Long cô-tông: Vietnam. Cotton. hanging tab on cotehardie sleeves. cotonia: See kuttan. couleur-de-roi: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. cotorina: Mexico. Man’s front-opening, sleeveless, wool Tawny color. vest. countenances: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. In cotoun: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) 1550, very first muffs to be carried by women. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. coups de vent: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Cotton. C.E.). France. Man’s hairstyle with loose bangs. cotswold: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). High quality couraça: Portugal. Cuirasse. wool from Cotswold sheep. coureur: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). cotta: See cote. France. Very fitted caraco with short basques. cotta de maglia: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. couroncon: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, melon Coat of mail. green. cotta d’ecclesiastico: Italy. Surplice. couronne: France. Ornamental loop on cordonnet edg- cottage bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 ing point lace. C.E.). In 1808, woman’s straw bonnet with wide brim. couronne Ristori: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, cottage cloak: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle wreath headdress of silk oak-leaves and acorns. (1865–1890 C.E.). Cloak with hood or cap that tied courreges: (1950–1960 C.E.). France. Lined and fur- beneath chin. topped goulashes. Usually white real or imitation cottage front: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 leather. C.E.) to Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. court habit: See habit. Popular from 1800 to 1820, woman’s day bodice with court plaster: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Beauty space in front showing blouse over which front laced patches. together. court sleeve cuff: See manchette de cour. cotte: See cote. court tie: Oxford tie. cotte d’armes: France. Tabard. Courtauld crape: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United cottereau: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Over- Kingdom. A crimped, dull, black mourning crape. skirt for riding. Courtauld’s new silk crepe: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 cotton: Fiber from cotton plant. Fibers range in length C.E.) In 1894, a silk crepe almost as thin and soft as from 1/2 inch to 2-1/2 inches. chiffon. cotton back satin: Satin made with silk or rayon warp courtepy: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Very and cotton weft. short overgarment usually with high collar. Often cotton cambric: See cambric. particolored or embroidered. cotton crepe: Lightweight cotton fabric with crepe face courtepye: See courtepy. used for dresses, gowns, spreads, etc. : Elbow piece of armor. cotton flannel: Plain or twill weave cotton fabric with : Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). The disc-shaped soft nap on one or both sides. plates attached to the elbows of a . cotton : Cotton fabric made to imitate silk fou- coutil: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 20th century. lard. France. Introduced in the 1840s, lightweight jean. 2. cotton pongee: Soft, lustrous, silky, plain weave cotton Strong, tightly woven, twill weave cot- fabric. ton fabric made from medium weight yarns. cotton taffeta: Plain weave fabric of cotton and mercer- couvre-chef: France. White muslin headscarf. 76 couvrechef

couvrechef: France. Woman’s headdress, veil, or head- crants: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Georgian scarf. (1750–1790 C.E.). Chaplet of flowers or gold and couvre-oreille: France. Earmuff. gems. cover: Spain. Cover coat. crapand: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). In 1745, rib- cover coat: Coarse wool Batavia twill with pronounced bon used to tie man’s hair in ponytail at back of head. diagonal wales. crapaud: See bag wig. Covercoat: Germany. Cover coat. crapaud mort d’amour: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). coverslut: Garment, like apron, worn to cover other France. Light green. clothes. crapaud saisi: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. covert: Diagonal twill weave, durable, medium-weight Medium green. fabric in variety of blends. crape: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). 1. To make one’s cowbandi: India. Waist-length, sleeveless, fitted jacket. hair curly or frizzy. 2. Mourning gauze of black silk. boots: High-heeled rid- craponne: Cheap, stout guipere. ing boots with fancy stitching on craquelé net: Firm net woven in zigzag pattern giving top. appearance of cracked glass. : Brimmed felt hat crash: Coarse, cotton, linen, rayon, or blend, plain with creased crown. weave fabric with rough irregular face. cowes: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 Cravanette: Trade name for waterproof finish. C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s cravat: Charles I (1625–1660 C.E.) to 20th century. evening jacket without tails. Pop- Loose, ornamental neckwear favored by men. Gen- ularized by the Prince of Wales erally included band around the neck secured in cowboy boots See also photospread for semi-formal evening dress. variety of styles. (Foot and Legwear). Later called dinner jacket. cravat cocodes: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, cowichan sweater: (20th century). lady’s large riding cravat worn tied in knot. Canada. Sweater with American cravat strings: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United Indian pattern in black and white Kingdom. Worn from 1665 to 1680s, colored ribbon or black and gray. worn around cravat ends and tied in bow under the cowl: 1. Monk’s hood. 2. Scotland. chin. More formal version appeared later. . 3. Soft fold or drape of cravate: 1. France. Necktie; cravat. 2. France. Provencal material in neckline. little white cap of ribbon or lace. cowl collar: 1. (1930–1940 C.E.). cravate à la Bergami: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. cowboy hat Large, shoulder-length, circular Similar to cravate a la Byron. collar. 2. (1980–1989 C.E.). Draped turtleneck collar. cravate cocodes: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. coxa: Iran. Mantle. Fashionable in 1863, woman’s large bow cravat worn coxcomb: Cap with strip of notched red cloth, once with habit shirt and standing collar. worn by licensed court jesters. cravate de bureaucrate: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). coxcombs: See wheat ears. France. High, tight, black cravat that was stiffened coyoichcatl: Mexico. Aztec term for coyote-colored cotton. with whalebone and stuffed with horsehair. crackle net: Net with mesh of crackle designs. cravate mathématique: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). crackow shoes: See pigaches. France. Cravat with folds all horizontal forming two cracow: See pigaches. acute angles. crà-gheal: Ireland. Light red. cravatta: Italy. Necktie; cravat. : Shoe with long pointed toe. cravenette: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.) In 1899, the crambaid: Ireland. Gaelic word for buckle. process which made fibers water resistant. cramignole: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- crea: Spain. Linen or cotton fabric. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s cap with turned-up crèach: Ireland. Gray. brim. In late 15th century, made of velvet; by early cream: Very light yellow. 17th century, of lighter stuff. creedmore: Cheap, heavy, blucher-cut shoe favored by cramoisi: France. Crimson. workmen. cran: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1830s, V-shaped crema: Spain. Cream color. gap in man’s suit coat collar. cremallera: Spain. . crane color: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Grayish cremallera separable: Spain. Separating zipper. white. creme de cachemire lace: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In cranky checks: United Kingdom. Check fabric with col- 1876, ecru or cream colored lace of fine cashmere ors woven in, most commonly blue and white check. wool. crew neckline 77 cremesino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Deep crepelle: (1900–1910 C.E.). France. A cheap silk and crimson dye made from tiny insects brought in from wool mourning fabric. India. crepida: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 cremisi: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Premium quality C.E.). Half shoe or sandal with red. leather or fabric sole that en- Cremona cravat: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Worn closed heel and sides of foot in 1702, plain ribbon decorated with gathers on each and fastened across instep with edge. laces through eyelets. crepida cremorne: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1872, crepine: 1. Directoire and First See also photospread faint reddish brown. Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Trim (Foot and Legwear). cremyll: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic of very long knotted fringes. 2. French silk dress fabric. (1350–1450 C.E.). Cotton openwork or lace. crepoline: Wool dress fabric. creoles: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Worn by both crepon: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to present. 1. Intro- genders, loop earrings. duced in 1866, China crepe with soft, silky surface. crêpe: Any of number of fabrics with characteristic 2. Introduced in 1882, wool, silk, or blend fabric like crinkled or puckered surface. very heavy crepe. 3. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). crepe aerophane: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, Popular in 1890s, woolen fabric creped to appear new fabric. puffed between stripes of squares. crepe anglaise: (20th century). United Kingdom. French crepon milleraye: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). term for English black and white mourning crape. France. In 1896, a finely striped crepon. crepe back satin: Heavy, drapable fabric with satin face crepon Persian: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). France. and crepe back, commonly made from rayon. In 1896, a crepon with oriental patterns. crepe charmeuse: Soft, dull luster silk used for dresses, crep-satén: Spain. Satin crepe. evening wear, and some linings. crespe: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France and It- crepe de Chine: Very lightweight, fine, plain weave silk aly. A lightweight crimped type of gauze used for fabric. mourning dress. crepe de laine: Fine, lightweight, plain weave woolen crespine: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic fabric. (1350–1450 C.E.). Open-weave net worn over wom- crépe de Suisse: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1860, en’s hair with barbette and filet. dress fabric. crespo: Italy. Crepe. crepe : Silk, silk and rayon, or silk and cotton crespón: Spain. Crepe. highly creped fabric. crespón arena: Spain. Sand crepe. crepe imperial: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- crespón de Cantón: Spain. Canton crepe. dom. A wool crape. Crespón de China: Spain. Crepe de Chine. crepe lisse: Thin, smooth, glossy silk fabric that feels crespón de lana: Spain. Wool crepe. like crepe. crespón georgette: Spain. Georgette. crepe maretz: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, new crespón marroqui: Spain. Marocain. fabric. crespón musgo: Spain. Crepe mousse. crepe marocain: Heavy, plain weave silk, cotton , rayon, crespón romano: Spain. Crepe romaine. or blend fabric. cress cloth: See crest cloth. crepe meteor: Fine, lightweight silk crepe with satin crest cloth: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Elizabethan face on one side. (1550–1625 C.E.). Type of linen used for linings. crepe myosotis: (1930–1940 C.E.). Crimped silk mourn- cresta: See touca. ing crepe with soft finish. Crete lace: Greece. Colored flax lace made on Crete. crepe plissé: Thin, lightweight cotton crepe with puck- cretinta: See pastura. ered stripes in direction of warp. cretona: Spain. . crepe poplin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in cretonne: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to present. Introduced 1871, silk and wool blend fabric, crinkly like crepe. in 1867, a twill weave, unglazed cotton fabric printed crepe royal: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1889, in colors. transparent crepe de Chine. creve-coeur: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. crepe rubber: Rubber with creped surface used in soles Curled hair worn by women at nape of neck. of shoes. creves: See slashings. crepe-de-china: Portugal. Crepe de Chine. crevette: France. Pinkish color of shrimp. crepeline: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular in 1870s, crew neckline: (20th century). Close-fitting, round cheap substitute for crepe de Chine. neckline without collar. 78 crewel work crewel work: Any embroidery made with lightly mantle of cashmere, satin, or velvet with short cape twisted, two-ply worsted yarn. that fitted snugly around neck. Cut on bias and often criardes: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Early pan- wadded. nier made of underskirts of gummed linen. crispin cloche: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced cricket: See tellex. in 1842, woman’s bell-shaped, knee-length crispin. cricket sweater: Tennis sweater. crispine: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). cridhachan: Ireland. Gaelic word for small brooch or Headdress made of gold net and pearls. buckle worn at the breast. crispinette: See crispine. Crimea: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1854, woman’s criss: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Man’s girdle. satin cloak, lined with taffeta. It had an 18-inch cape 2. Isle of Man. Man’s girdle made of two- to three- with 14-inch skirt box-pleated on. It was trimmed inch-wide knitted band of brightly colored wool. with noeuds of black velvet ribbon. 2. In 1856, wom- Worn wrapped twice around waist and then tied. 3. an’s moire antique carriage cloak trimmed with satin Ireland. Gaelic word for girdle. galloon and lined with silk. cristygrey: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Fur taken from crimson: Deep red with hint of blue. animal’s head or crest. crinc: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). crn: Poland. Black colored. United Kingdom. Shoe, possibly not fitted, but laced. crnac: Poland. The color black. crinkle cloth: See . crò snàthaid: Ireland. Eye of a needle. crinoletta: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Whalebone or steel cròchach: Ireland. Saffron colored. bustle covered in flounces. crochag: Ireland. Gaelic word for ear pendant. crinolette: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Worn from 1868 to croché: Portugal. work. around 1873, small cage crinoline hoop in back only. crocking: To rub off unfixed dye or paint from fabric. crinolette petticoat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Worn in crocodile: Alligator leather. 1870 and revived in 1883, petticoat cut flat in front crocus: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United States and with half circle steel hoops in back and flounces of America. Coarse linen fabric worn by slaves and on bottom back. common folk. crinolina: Italy and Spain. Crinoline. crò-dhearg: Ireland. 1. The color saffron. 2. Red. crinoline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Originally croiméal: Ireland. Moustache worn without beard. horsehair cloth used for officers’ collars. Later used croise cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, lightly for women’s underskirts to support skirts. Around twilled wool fabric in unbleached shades. 1850, replaced by many petticoats, starched and croisgileid: Ireland. Gaelic word for a triangle of fabric boned. Around 1856, light metal cage was developed. worn tied around an infant’s head. crios: Ireland. Gaelic word for belt or girdle. croîtor: Romania. Tailor. criosan: Ireland. Gaelic word for a small belt or apron. croizette blue: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, new criosan biodag: Scotland. Dirk belt. Wide belt (2-1/2 to color. 3 inches) of black morocco or patent leather with or- Cromwell collar: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- namented silver buckle. Dirk worn suspended from dom. Popular in 1880s, woman’s deep turned over belt. collar worn with . crios-ceangail: Ireland. Gaelic word for belt. Cromwell shoe: 1. Bustle (1865– crios-claidheimh: Ireland. Gaelic word for sword belt. 1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. crioslachan: Ireland. Gaelic word for a bag worn hung Worn from 1869 to 1889, from the girdle. tongued shoe with buckle simi- crios-muineil: Ireland. Gaelic word for a necklace or a lar to those worn during mid- neckband. 1600s. 2. (20th century). Begin- crios-pheilear: Ireland. Gaelic word for bandolier. ning in the 1920s, a shorter toed Cromwell shoe crios-tarsainn: Ireland. Gaelic word for shoulder belt. version of the mid-1600s shoe (Bustle period) crisp: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Elizabethan popularly worn by women. Dover Publications (1550–1625 C.E.). 1. Lawn. 2. Woman’s head veil. 3. cronnt: Ireland. Gaelic word for Curl of hair. green or gray. crispin: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crinoline (1840– crook and flail: Egyptian (4000– 1865 C.E.). 1. Introduced in 1826, collarless coat 30 B.C.E.). Royal insignia car- used by actresses to keep them warm when wait- ried by a pharaoh consisting ing in wings. 2. Introduced in 1839, man’s evening of a crook, similar to a shep- Cromwell shoe cloak with very large sleeves. Silk lined, wadded, herd’s hook, possibly symbolic (20th century) and quilted. 3. Introduced in 1842, woman’s short of the pharaoh as the shepherd of his people, and cuenta 79

a flail, possibly symbolic of a shepherd’s whip or a crystallus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Rock crystal. fly-whisk. Together they denote the authority and csakora cut: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Austro-Hun- power of the leader. garian Empire. Popular style of tailoring involving crop: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Short hairstyle diagonally cut piece of fabric overlapping front area worn as prevention against tax on hair-powder. of the dolman below the waist. croppes: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Fur made from csepesz: Hungary. Married woman’s black frilled bon- pieces cut from rump of animal. net. croquet boots: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in csispkèsköttö: Hungary. Green apron with lace trim. 1865, woman’s boot of morocco leather often with csizma: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Austro-Hungarian fancy toe-. Top edge had tassels in front and Empire. Boot. back and it laced up. cuach-chiabh: Ireland. Gaelic word for ringlet. croquis: France. Fashion sketch. cuach-fhalt: Ireland. Gaelic word for curled hair. cross aigrette: Short feathers from under wings of egret. cuaran: 1. Ireland. Gaelic word for sock; brogue of un- cross fox: Fox fur that is mix of black or silver and red tanned skin; sandal; buskin or slipper. 2. Renaissance fox. Black cross over shoulders and down back. (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). cross gartering: Elizabethan Scotland. Highlander’s knee-high boot. (1550–1625 C.E.). Bands, ribbons, Cuban heel: Heel with straight or strips of fabric or leather worn sides. crisscrossed below knees. Worn cubhrag: Ireland. Gaelic word for by men. infant’s flannel shawl. cross pocket: Early Georgian cubica: 1. Fine, worsted shalloon (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Georgian used for linings. 2. Spain. A Cuban heel (1750–1790 C.E.). Pocket with hor- fabric. izontal opening. cubital: Sleeve covering arm from wrist to elbow. cross-cloth: Elizabethan (1550– cubitière: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Piece 1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Band of plate armor for elbow. of fabric worn across forehead in cubù: China. Coarse fabric. connection with coif. Also worn cuculla: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Oblong piece of cross gartering at night as wrinkle preventative. fabric with opening for head used by all classes as See also photospread cross-stitch: Cross formed by two protection from weather. Later became part of dress (Foot and Legwear). slanted stitches. for Benedictine monks as form of . crotalia: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Women’s ear- cucullus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Hood on work- rings made of pear-shaped beads that rattled like ing clothes. castanets with any movement. cudamani: India. A lotus-shaped hair ornament. crottin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1888, blonde color. cudari: See badhani. Crown pearl: (1930–1940 C.E.). A new color. cūdīdār: India. Trousers cut loose at the waist and fitted crubhas: Ireland. Gaelic word for crimson. at the ankle. crubhasg: Ireland. Gaelic word for crimson. cūdō: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Skin helmet. cruches: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Women’s small cudon: Italy. Leather skull cap held on with a chin strap. forehead curls. de Paris: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of cruinneacan: Ireland. Gaelic word for coronet. America. Bustle padded with horsehair. crumenal: Obsolete term for purse. cuecas: Portugal. Shorts. crùn: Ireland. 1. Crown. 2. Garland of flowers. cueitl: Mexico. Aztec woman’s ankle-length, wrap- crùn-easbuig: Ireland. Bishop’s miter. around skirt. crusene: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). cuello: Spain. Collar. United Kingdom. Man’s fur or skin garment. cuello bebés: Spain. Baby collar. crushed strawberry: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In cuello bote: Spain. Boat collar. 1891, a new color; shade of red. cuello burberry: Spain. Burberry collar. crushed velvet: Velvet with irregular surface. cuello capuchon: Spain. Cowl neckline. cruth-lachd: Ireland. Gaelic word for sword girdle. cuello chal: Spain. Shawl collar. cruz churuku: Ecuador. A rough diamond-shaped cuello chino: Spain. Mao collar. weave. cuello de pajarita: Spain. Wing collar. crven: Poland. Red colored. cuello eton: Spain. Eton collar. crvena boja: Poland. Red. cuello mandarín: Spain. . crys: Wales. Shirt. cuenta: Ecuador and Guatemala. Bead. 80 cuerbully

cuerbully: See cuir-bouilli. woman’s horned headdress. cuero: Spain. Leather. cul de crin: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). In 1788, cuero de ante: Spain. Chamois. woman’s bustle. cuero de cerdo: Spain. Pigskin. cul de Paris: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). In 1680s, cuero de cocodrilo: Spain. Alligator leather. woman’s bustle. cuero de marroqui: Spain. Morocco leather. cul postiche: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). False cuero napa: Spain. Nappa leather. bums or rumps. cuerpo: Ecuador. Body of a blouse. culaidh-aodaich: Ireland. Gaelic word for suit of clothes. cuerpo baxo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- culaidh-bainnse: Ireland. Gaelic word for wedding suit. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Quilted, boned, sleeve- culan: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Ireland. Man’s less bodice worn with basquine. hairstyle where front was shaved and hair remained cufaica: Romania. Blouse. in back. Forbidden in 1297. cuff link: Fastening device that connects the two sides culeco: Peru. Large shirt of white cotton embroidered of a cuff. with colored threads. cuff strings: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Thin ties : Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Defensive armor used to hold cuff in place. that covered . cuffia: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). culgah: See culgee. United Kingdom. Late 10th-century women’s head- culgee: 1. India. Jeweled plume worn on turban. 2. In- dress. 2. Italy. Bonnet. dia. Figured silk fabric. cuffie: See cuffia. culok: Russia. Sock. çuga: Iran. Short jacket. culot: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Men’s very cuha: Hungary and Turkey. Woven woolen fabric. short and tight breeches. cui: China. 1. Pure white. 2. Emerald green. culote: Portugal. Riding breeches. cuille: Ireland. Gaelic word for black fabric. culotte: 1. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Men’s breeches cuìlù: China. Emerald green. that tied below knee. 2. France. Breeches. cuir: 1. France. Leather. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In culotte courte: France. Knee breeches. 1862, new shade of brown; literally, “leather.” culpait: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). cuirass tunic: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Ireland. Large collar. Introduced in 1874, woman’s plain, fitted tunic worn cumábù: China. Burlap. with cuirasse bodice. cumáoyàng: China. Coarse wool. cuirasse bodice: Bustle (1865– cumbe: Ecuador and Guatemala. Fine fabric, usually a 1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. In- double faced tapestry. troduced in 1874, woman’s long, cumbe camentera: Ecuador and Guatemala. Incan fine fitted and boned day bodice that cloth decorated with brightly colored feathers. reached below hips. Often made Cumberland corset: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United of different fabric than the dress. Kingdom. Worn from 1815 to 1820s, man’s corset Sleeves matched trim. worn by dandies. cuirasse tunic: Bustle (1865–1890 Cumberland hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United C.E.). From 1874 to 1878, wom- Kingdom. Worn in 1830s, man’s tall hat with eight an’s masculine cut tunic. inch crown that tapered toward top and narrow brim cuir-bouilli: Early Gothic (1200– turned up on sides. 1350 C.E.). France. Hard, boiled cumbi: 1. Bolivia. Tapestry cloth. 2. See cumpi. leather used of armor. cumbly: See kambala. cuircinn: Ireland. Gaelic word for cumhais: Ireland. Gaelic word for selvedge. woman’s headdress. cumly: See kambala. cuirie: Early Gothic (1200–1350 : Wide, pleated sash belt, usually in satin. C.E.). France. Armored mittens. Worn by men with and by women more cùirnean: Ireland. Brooch. casually. cuirasse bodice cuish: See cuisse. cummul: See kambala. Dover Publications cuissard: See cuisse. cumpi: Peru. Fine fabric of vicuna or cotton. cuissart: See cuisse. cūndad: India. Tie-dyed red scarf. cuisse: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Plate armor piece cunnī: India. Scarf. for front of the thighs. cunua: Romania. Bride’s wreath of cardboard, paper, cuivre: France. Copper color. flowers, beads, and small mirrors. cukar: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Side pieces of cuoio: Italy. Leather. czapska 81 cuoroncou: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, cushion work: See opus pulvinarium. medium yellow green. cushionet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles I cupola coat: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late (1625–1660 C.E.). Woman’s bustle worn with farthin- Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Worn from around 1710 gale to lift it in back. to 1780, popular term for domed petticoat of whale- cushma: 1. See kushma. 2. Peru. Tribal man’s long, wide bone or cane hoops. tunic. cuppalium: India. A freshly dyed fabric. cusma: Romania. Old-fashioned fur cap. cuprius: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Copper. cut linen work: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Form of curace: Cuirass. embroidery where groups of threads are removed by cùrainn: Ireland. Coarse woolen fabric or flannel. cutting. cùrainn-chneas: Ireland. Flannel. cut velvet: Fine, knife-cut silk velvet. curch: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United States cutar: India. A plain white calico. of America. Plain, close-fitting cap worn by women. cutaveica: Romania. Blouse. curchef: See curch. cutaway: Man’s one-button formal coat with skirt cut curea: See cingătoare. away in front, forming tails in back. curi: Peru. Tribal woman’s disc that is worn hanging cut-fingered gloves: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). from a pierced lower lip. Women’s gloves with tips of fingers removed. curled silk: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 cut-fingered pumps: Renaissance C.E.). United States of America. Introduced in 1814, (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- new fabric for bonnets. dom. Men’s shoes that were curling: Trim of lace and ribbons stitched in tight fold slashed over toes. on handkerchief hem. cuth-bhàrr: Ireland. Helmet. curling-cloud crown: China. Song dynasty. Emperor’s cuth-bharran: Ireland. Gaelic blue crown made with 24 one-inch-long beams. word for hood. curls à la Greque: Directoire and First Empire (1790– cutlets: See dundrearys. cut-fingered pumps 1815 C.E.). Worn after 1801, waving curls close to cutout embroidery: Buttonhole See also photospread face. stitch with interior cut out. (Foot and Legwear). curóugé: China. Rough-tanned leather. cuttanee: Elizabethan (1550–1625 currac: Ireland. Gaelic word for woman’s cap. C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). East Indian curracag: Ireland. Gaelic word for hood. linen used for shirts, cravats. curricle cloak: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 : Embroidery from which parts of the ground C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn from 1801 to 1806, are cut away. woman’s half or three-quarter length cloak that was cutworks: See wheat ears. fitted at waist. Front borders curved away from cuyuscate: Guatemala. Brown cotton. waist. Edged in lace or fur. cuzhi xianwéi: China. Acetate fiber. curricle coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1820s, cyan blue: Strong blue color with green tint. woman’s long coat with lapels. cyanus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Lapis lazuli. curricle dress: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 cyclamen: Dull blue red. C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from 1794 to 1803, cyclas: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Cut in one piece, woman’s gown with over-tunic or this overgarment had hole in center for head. Some- half robe of net. Short sleeved and times lined with fur or silk. opened down front. Sometimes cymar: Woman’s loose garment or scarf. worn with habit shirt. cynara: Heavy, sheer rayon crepe similar to romaine. curricle pelisse: Romantic (1815– cypress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Dark green. 1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn Cyprian gold: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Italy. in 1820s, woman’s pelisse with White linen thread sheathed in gold. three capes. cyprus: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration cursey cloth: See kersey. (1660–1700 C.E.). Fine, black silk crepe worn as curtain drapery: Bustle (1865– mourning veil or for hatbands. Made in Cyprus. 1890 C.E.). North America. Term cyrtel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). for pannier folds. See also hip bags. United Kingdom. Man’s tunic or woman’s gown. cushion headdress: Romantic Originally short. Of wool or fur. (1815–1840 C.E.). Term for pad- : Poland. Cap or caul. See also kall. curtain drapery ded roll worn in Late Gothic czapska: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Dover Publications (1350–1450 C.E.) era. Poland. Military cap with square top and visor in 82 czarina

front. Worn first by Polish troops in French service czechoslovakian embroidery: Brightly colored geomet- under Napoleon. ric shapes on linen. czarina: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, woman’s czepek: Poland. Bonnet. wrap with caped yoke and box-pleated skirt. Had arm czepesz: Romania. Woman’s starched lace bonnet. slits and scalloped lower edge and was embroidered. czerwony: Poland. Red. czarny: Poland. Black colored. czólka: Poland. Stiff tiara with ribbons and bunch of czarny jak smola: Poland. Jet black. flowers and feathers on one side. D

da: Vietnam. Wool; felt. daikou: China. Ming . da boc-can: Vietnam. Box calf leather. dàilù: China. Dark green. da dai: China. Zhuong dynasty. Women’s silk girdle. daimana: See kaimana. da láng: Vietnam. Patent leather. daimon: Japan. Literally “big crest,” a square cut coat da linh: Vietnam. Chamois. emblazoned with large family crests. da lon: Vietnam. Pigskin. daishi: China. Ming belt plaque. dáábalii: Navajo. Shawl. daisy belle: Solid color cotton fabric. dabao: China. Long, broad girdle. Daisy cloth: Trade name for twill weave outing flannel. dacca muslin: One of very earliest textiles, made in daku: Hungary. Embroidered sheepskin waistcoat. Dacca, India, from locally grown cotton. Worn by women and some men. dacca silk: Embroidery silk. dalahany: Madagascar. Finest silk cloth. dàchang: China. Outer garment. dalc: See dalk. Dachs: Germany. Badger fur. dalephuc: Vietnam. Evening dress. Dacron: DuPont’s trade name for its fiber. dali dali: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja pendant. dadhikali: India. A very white wrapper with an in- dalian: China. Layered jacket worn by wrestlers. dented decoration on the borders. dalk: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to dadiyā: India. Sari with a zigzag pattern. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Term usually refers to dadong: Borneo. Shawl. a pin, but it may also mean brooch, clasp, or buckle. dagba gulai: Sierra Leone. Literally “nursing dress,” See also prēon. cloth presented to the mother of the bride as part of dalkr: Norway. Old word for pin. the bride price. dalmatic: See dalmatica. dagged: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). 1. Appliqué of dalmatica: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Long, T- petal-shaped pieces of material. 2. Snipped edges on shaped garment made of white Dalmatian wool and garment. trimmed with vertical purple bands. Considered daglā: See cogā. effeminate garment. 2. Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). Dagmor blue: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, very rich T-shaped garment worn by both genders, decorated deep blue. with two vertical stripes reaching from shoulder to dagswain: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Elizabethan hem. One of most important garments of period. (1550–1625 C.E.). Very coarse fabric. 3. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Mass vestment of dàguà: China. Unlined long gown. rich fabric. Bishop’s version was fringed on both dàhóng: China. Bright red. sleeves and sides and worn under chasuble. Dea- dai fong chau: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States con’s was fringed only on left side and sleeves. Never of America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a soft, pro- worn under cope. cessed silk with a thick texture. dalmatikon: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew word dai kou: China. Literally “pocket mouths,” patch pock- for dalmatica. ets inside jacket. dalmonas: See kišené. dai seong siu kwun: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States dam boo lau: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of of America. Chinese Hawaiian term for pantaloons. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a cloth vendor.

83 84 damas

damas: France. Damask. Also damassé. ðang-ten: Vietnam. Lace. damas lisere: Silk damask in which jacquard is outlined Danish embroidery: Embroidery from Denmark. in gold. Danish trousers: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- Damascene lace: Imitation Honiton lace of sprigs and dom. In 1870s, open-legged trouser popular with boys braids joined with corded bars. that reached just below the knee. Worn with jacket. damascening: See damasking. daniyu: India. Studded gold collar. damaschino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Danjuro cha: Japan. A bright brown tea color named for Monochrome damask with satin ground and actor Ichikawa Danjuro. pattern. dankalia capretto della: Italy. Dankal goat fur. damasco: 1. Italy. Damask. 2. Portugal. Damask. 3. dankalie: France. Ermine fur. Spain. Damask. da-n-katanga: Hausa. Cotton cloth with small amounts damascus: See damask. of red and black. damasellours: See damasin. dannocks: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Heavy damasin: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian gloves. (1750–1790 C.E.). Silk brocaded with metal threads. danpiàn yanjìng: China. Monocle. damask: Silk, linen, cotton, rayon, or blend fabric in jac- dànqing: China. Light greenish blue. quard weave, originally from Damascus, patterned danshichi-goshi: Japan. White and rust checkered pat- with self-colored foliage and animals. May be all white, tern. piece dyed, or woven in colors. dansiki: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s sleeveless tunic with damaskin: Brocatelle or damask with gold or silver large armholes and a round neckline. flower patterns. dantelă: Romania. Lace. damasking: Sword blade inlaid with gold or silver. dantelez: France. Breton for lace. damassé: To be woven like damask. danyi: China. Unlined garment. damassin: 1. See damaskin. 2. Damask or brocade fabric dàoguàjinzhong: China. Fuchsia. with floral patterns woven in gold or silver threads. darázsolás: Hungary. . Damast: Germany. Damask. dārgums: Lithuania. Jewel. damast: Holland. Damask. darned lace: Lace with pattern filled in with needle- damer: Palestine. Man’s broadcloth jacket. work. dameslarrje: Holland. Woman’s bootee. daróc: See condra. damesmantel: Holland. Pelisse. darpana: India. The mirror, the emblem of wisdom and Damhirschfell: Germany. Doeskin. illusion. damier: France. Check pattern. darpe: Iran. Women’s voluminous trousers. dam-thanh: Vietnam. Light green. Darro: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1855, mantilla ðan: Vietnam. Red. with box-pleated ruffle. Trimmed with ruches of dan garagai: Nigeria. Wealthy man’s rainy season san- pink taffeta. 2. In 1857, woman’s taffeta mantilla with dals with raised wooden soles. double tabs in front and point in back. The hood dan kura: Nigeria. Wealthy man’s handspun indigo cot- had large tassel. It was trimmed with needlework ton turban. The cotton has a glossy surface. embroidery. Danakillisches Böcklein: Germany. Dankal goat fur. : Tapering; stitched tuck in garment. dancing clog: Shoe with thin wooden sole for tap dancing. darzi: India. A tailor. dancing phoenix bun: China. Woman’s hairstyle. das: Holland. Cravat; necktie. danda: India. A mace, the emblem of power or the eter- dasa: India. A border. nal order. : Long, loose robe with slit neckline and full dandaprakara: India. A striped silk fabric. sleeves. Derived from Saharan styles. dandine: (1920–1930 C.E.). France. Man’s black Shet- dasko: Norway. Man’s small purse. land wool morning coat worn with striped trousers. : India. Turban of fine muslin worn by Delhi Not a popular fashion. nobles. dandizette: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Female dandy dastar boongga: India. Indigo blue turban worn by the of 1816–1820 who stood in Grecian bend. warrior class Sikhs. dandy collar: Deep pointed shirt collar. dastar khana: India. Floorspread. dang: China. Crotch of trousers. dastmal: Iran. Unmarried woman’s large triangular dangdong: 1. Borneo. Men’s cotton ceremonial shawl. 2. veil worn over klaw-i jnan. Ends are tied loosely and Sarawak. Shawl. thrown over shoulders. d’Angri: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, woman’s date-eri: Japan. Under-collar worn instead of under- moire basquine with square bertha. kimono. demiplume 85 date-gera: Japan. A straw coat. hat: Tweed hat with datemaki: Japan. An undersash used for a kimono and peak in front and in back. its undergarment. defrise: France. To be uncurled. datil: Coconut palm whose leaves are used to make degenkoppel: Holland. Sword belt. rope hats. degenstok: Holland. Sword cane. datilado: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Date deguisement: France. Fancy dress. colored. degummed silk: Silk from which dauni: India. Chaplet of gold or silver. gum has been removed in hot dauphiness: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United soap solution. States. Style of women’s mantle. dehri: India. A disc-shaped earring. deerstalker hat Davao hemp: See abaca. deiji’éé’: Navajo. Shirt. See also photospread cap: (1950–1960 C.E. ). deirge: Ireland. Gaelic word for (Headwear). with tail in back. the color red. dây bang: Vietnam. Ribbon. deise: Ireland. Gaelic word for a suit of clothes. dây giãy: Vietnam. Shoelace. deise-mharcachd: Ireland. Gaelic word for a riding habit. de Berri: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. dekmantel: See schoudermantel. Light blue. del: Mongolia. Calf-length, surplice-front, belted robe. de caracolillo: Mexico. Spanish word for purple skirts. delaine: Lightweight, plain weave dress fabric. de France: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- delaine wool: From the French, literally “of wool.” dom. Blue. Originally a high-quality woolen for women’s cloth- de frivolité: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. To ing, the term now applies to any plain weave, com- be touched with frivolity or whimsy. pactly woven woolen fabric. de lazo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. With - delantal: Spain. Apron. ing. delantal de cintura: Spain. Half apron. de Roi: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. delft blue: Soft medium blue. Light blue. delg: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for pin. de todo lazo: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Com- Delhi work: India. Embroidery in chain and satin pletely laced. stitches with metal and silk threads. deacaid: Ireland. Gaelic word for jacket; waistcoat or delinere: Medium quality linen popular in Europe. bodice. delmonas: See kišené. dead Spaniard: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Pale gray- demerara: Raw cotton from Guiana. ish tan. demi-castor: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Early dead white: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1894, a Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. Beaver hat made white with hint of blue. partly of coney. dealg: See biorān. demicaul: See bonnet à barbes. dealg-fhuilt: Ireland. Gaelic word for hairpin. demiceint: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Worn dealg-gualainn: Ireland. Gaelic word for the pin that by women, second belt of hinged metal plaques worn holds the plaid on the left shoulder. down on hips. dearg: Ireland. Gaelic word for crimson. demi-converti: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 deargan: Ireland. Gaelic word for red dye. C.E.). France. Man’s outercoat with tall, folded-down death lace: Czechoslovakia. Black lace with white out- collar, sleeves cut full at shoulder, narrow knee- line with three white points in each scallop. length tails, and cutaway to waist in front. It could death’s head button: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). be worn with the fronts buttoned back or buttoned Domed button with thread or metal twist. up double breasted. debajero: Ecuador. Pleated skirt. demi-gown: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Man’s short deboan: See lasoa. gown worn when riding. debrum: Portugal. Hem; edging; border. demijambe: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Ar- debutante slouch: (1910–1920 C.E.). Fashionable stance mor piece for front of leg. for young women involving hands being placed on demi-manche: Half sleeve. hips with pelvis thrown forward, de-emphasizing demi-mousseline: France. Very lightweight cotton or . linen fabric. décolletage: Low-cut or décolleté neckline or yoke. demipauldron: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Piece dedo: Nigeria. Tanned sheepskin worn by Wodaabe of armor for shoulder, used to join body and arm men as a loincloth. pieces. deerskin: Skin of deer. demiplume: Medium- or half-length ostrich plume. 86 demi-

demi-surtout: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- deogir: India. A famous muslin from Deogir. dom. In 1818, man’s lightweight fitted overcoat. deraa: Morocco. Man’s long, loose shirt of blue cotton demi-tablier: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. with a big pocket. Short apron. derby: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) demi-tunique: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 to today. United States of Amer- C.E.). France. Woman’s three-quarter length, short- ica. Traditionally made from sleeved summer jacket. felt, a rigid, dome-shaped hat demi-turban: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 with a short curled brim. In the C.E.). Soft muslin or gauze scarf worn tied around United Kingdom, it is referred head in soft bow. Fashionable from 1800 to 1812. to as a bowler or bowler hat. derby demivambrace: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Piece of : Boot or shoe with protective armor worn on forearm on top of mail. eyelet tabs stitched on top of demob: (1940–1949 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s sim- vamp. ple single-breasted, three-pocket jacket. ðerdan: Croatia and Serbia. Neck- de-mob suit: (1940–1950 C.E.). United Kingdom. Ready- lace. made suit issued to soldiers who had been demobilized. derekas ing: Hungary. Man’s demysent: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Half girdle short shirt. Derby shoe worn by women with only front half decorated. deriband: India. Thin fabric. See also photospread (Foot and Legwear). demy-teste: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- derrara: Africa. Man’s long, loose dom. Steel skull-cap. blue shirt with large front pocket. ðen lánh: Vietnam. Shining black. derries: India. Cotton dress good made from colored dendeki: Palestine. Rusty-red cotton used for women’s yarns, mostly blue and brown. headdresses. tulle: Coarse, shiny, stiff tulle. dengue: Spain. Cape. desborrador: Ecuador and Guatemala. Person who dengxinróng: China. Corduroy. takes the cloth off the loom. denim: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to 20th century. Desdemona: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, wom- Stout, twill weave, cotton fabric with white fill and an’s cloth cloak trimmed with fringe of jet beads. navy warp. Name shortened from serge de Nimes. desero: India. Thread. denkuro-zome: Japan. A fabric with a pattern of balls deshilado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Drawn inside diamonds. work. Denmark cock: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United deshret: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Red Crown of Kingdom. Man’s tricorne hat with brim cocked up in Egypt; a low cylinder with a point in the center back back and down in front. and a spiral in the center front. It was made of red Denmark satin: Satin twill weave fabric. linen or leather on a frame. dentalium: A mollusk with a thinly pointed shell. It is desoy: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Directoire used to make beads. and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). United States. dentelle: See passemente. Rough silk fabric used for men’s clothing. dentelle Angleterre: France. A cheap tape lace made desplegada: Peru. Thickly pleated skirt. mainly in Austria. dessous: France. On a hat, area below brim. dentelle Arabe: Tunisia. Edging lace. desvadusya: India. A diba silk from Persia. dentelle aux fuseaux: France. Bobbin lace. detachi: Japan. Tight trousers. dentelle cachmire: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, detente: Peru. Small piece of embroidered fabric of reli- Cluny-style lace woven of brightly colored wool. gious importance. dentelle d’application: France. Lace where decoration Dettingen cock: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) is sewn to foundation. to Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). dentelle de Cambrai: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s tricorne with brim equally cocked in front France. Silk lace made in Cambrai. and back. dentelle de fil: France. Thread lace. deuil: France. Mourning. dentelle de la vierge: France. Wide Dieppe point lace. devadusa: India. A smooth fabric. dentelle de laine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Worsted lace. devagiru: India. A fine muslin from Devagiri. dentelle renaissance: France. A form of tape lace. devanga: India. A silk cloth. dentelle torchon: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, linen devanga-cira: India. A brocaded diba silk. lace forming geometric designs. devantiere: Charles I (1625–1660 C.E.) to Restoration dentes de loup: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Pointed, (1660–1700 C.E.). France. Woman’s riding costume serrated trim. that was split up back. din 87 device: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic Diana Vernon bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United (1350–1450 C.E.). Distinguishing emblem used to Kingdom. Woman’s large, low-crowned, wide- represent person or family. brimmed bonnet. devil skin: United Kingdom. Corduroy. Diana Vernon hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Devonshire: Named for the Duchess of Devonshire, to Kingdom. Woman’s country shallow crowned straw have the lower two ribs removed in order to have a hat with wide brim that curved up on one side. It tied smaller waist. under chin with wide ribbons. Devonshire brown: Directoire and First Empire (1790– diaopí: China. Fur of the marten. 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1813, rich reddish brown. diaper: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Devonshire hat: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). In Cloth of one color woven in ornamental pattern. 1783, woman’s very large hat with large brim and 2. Allover repetitive pattern. deep crown. diaper cloth: Soft, absorbent, bleached cotton fabric Devonshire lace: Honiton lace. used to make infants’ . May be , plain, dhablo: India. Tie-dyed black woolen veil. or twill weave. dhammilia: India. An elaborate hairstyle consisting of diaphane: Thin silk or cotton fabric with transparent flowers, pearls, and jewels. design. dhanak: India. Narrow silver lace. diaraogenn: See tavancher. dhanush: India. Bow. diasper: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). A silk textile dhardi: See kināri. woven from a glossy woof thread. dharmasastra: India. Sanskrit religious laws that in- diaspurum: See diasper. clude socio- prescriptions. dibahae cin: India. Chinese brocade. dhautakanseya: India. A bleached silk or raw silk fabric. dickey: False shirt front. dhautapatta: India. A washed silk fabric. didjee: See darzi. dhautavata: See dhota-patta. Dieppe ground: Simple square mesh ground of twisted dhile paenche: India. Trousers with loose ankle open- threads. ings. Dieppe point lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late dhota-patta: India. A bleached silk. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Valenciennes dhotar: See dhoti. type bobbin lace made in Dieppe, France. dhotara: See dhoti. digitalia: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Gloves. dhotee: See dhoti. dikkeh: Palestine. 1. Drawstring used to gather sirwal. dhoti: 1. Iran. Long loincloth worn wrapped around 2. Fringed band. loins, pulled between the legs, and tucked at the dikky: See tikkeh. waist. 2. India. Lightweight cotton fabric used for dilak bedong: Borneo. Sash. loincloth. dilbahar: See badshah pasand. dhumani: India. The color brown. dildo: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Late Georgian dhumarai: India. An emerald green fabric. (1750–1790 C.E.). Sausage-shaped curl on man’s wig. : Thick cotton or wool rug or carpet. dilge: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. Leg- diadem: Crown. guard for jousts. diadem bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- dilhil: Navajo. Jet black. dom. Introduced in 1869, woman’s lace and velvet dillad: 1. Wales. Clothing. 2. France. Breton for clothing. headdress that formed diadem above forehead and dilladu: See gwisgo. tied with ribbon below chignon. dīllat: Ireland. Gaelic word for clothing. diadem comb: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- dilun: China. Polyester fiber. dom. Popular in 1830s, wide curved comb with high dima: 1. Ethiopia. Red. 2. Palestine. Striped cotton fabric ornament shaped like diadem. Worn with evening used for men’s coats. dress. dimayeh: See qumbaz. diadem fanchon bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). dimie: Romania. Homespun thick, woolen drugget United Kingdom. Popular in 1869, one-inch-wide used for overcoats and winter clothes. headdress trimmed with tulle or ruching and aigrette dimii: Bulgaria. Men’s trousers with wide legs, ending of feathers or flowers. It fastened beneath chin with below knees. Ornamented on bottom edge. lappets and satin bow. dimity: India. Semi-sheer, lightweight cotton fabric diamanté: France. To be set with diamonds. first made in Damietta. Popularly used for summer Diamond dyes: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States dresses, aprons, and . of America. Dyes that required no . din: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of America. dian: China. Indigo blue. Chinese Hawaiian term for satin. 88 dindilliam dindilliam: India. A type of embroidered fabric. diseño tradicional de piñones: Spain. Paisleyed. dinh cúc: Vietnam. Large-head needle. disfraz: Spain. Fancy dress. dinner cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). dish dasha: . Man’s ankle-length white shirt that Woman’s white satin and lace cap popular in 1812. buttons from neck to waist. dinner jacket: See cowes. disissik: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja ceremonial head- diphera: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1852, cloth that is placed on a corpse. fine soft kid leather used for women’s bonnets. diszmagyar: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Austro-Hun- diphtera: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Cloak made from garian Empire. Jewel studded gala costume. animal skin or thick wool. dittos: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to 20th century. diplax: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Woman’s version of Term referring to man’s suit being cut of one fabric. chloene. dival: Turkey. . diploidion: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Woman’s chiton dival isi: Turkey. Embroidery formed by couching flat worn with portion above waist doubled. gold strip backwards and forwards over stiff card, Directoire bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United giving satin-like effect. Kingdom. Popular from 1878 to 1880, woman’s bon- divided skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. net with square, high crown, brim that fitted over the Introduced in 1882 by Lady Harbeton for bicycling, ears and spread out over the forehead. short kilted skirt cut to conceal division between legs. Directoire coat: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- divolgatore: Italy. Blazer. dom. Popular from 1869 to 1889, woman’s ankle- divorce corset: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United length coat cutaway in front and skirted only in back. Kingdom. Introduced in 1816, padded metal triangle 2. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1888, day bodice, made in woman’s corset which pushed between the breasts single- or double-breasted and cutaway in front and to separate them. skirted to ankles in back. Had tight, cuffed sleeves. divyasudha: India. A good quality starch. Worn with habit shirt and wide folded sash. diyugi: United States of America. Navajo term for Directoire hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. -shaped blankets made for everyday use. Introduced in 1888, larger version of Directoire bonnet. Loosely woven of thick, soft yarns. Directoire jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- diz: See kalets. dom. Introduced in 1888, day bodice similar to Direc- dizge: Turkey. Flat textile woven as a long, narrow belt. toire coat but made without the skirt. djebba: Tunisia. Summer version of the kadroun. Directoire knickers: (1910–1920 C.E.). Woman’s fitted djedda: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1866, knickers with elastic waist and knees. poil de chevre with silk spots. Directoire skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.) United djéli: Greece. White embroidery along the chemise hem. Kingdom. In 1895, a seven day skirt in which the : Morocco. Three-quarter length cloak. four back gores were fluted. Lined and stiffened with djersa: Woolen fabric used for jerseys. horsehair and measuring 13–18 feet around the hem. djnne-djnne: Timbuktu. A woman’s hairstyle with a Directoire swallow-tail coat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). queue in front and another in back. It is trimmed United Kingdom. Introduced in 1888, term referring with beads and silver triangles. to back of Directoire coat in which the tails were cut djore: Tibet. A pendant shaped like a thunderbolt. with deep center vent. djorro-marabu: Timbuktu. A line of hair left on a man’s Director: (1950–1960 C.E.). Man’s hairstyle with slight shaven head. wave on crown. djubba: Algeria. Jewish woman’s ankle-length gown. directory suit: (20th century). Suit with high waist and dlùth: Ireland. The warp of fabric. short cutaway jacket, in the lines of men’s suits from do: Vietnam. Dark blue colored. Directoire period. dò choé: See dò chói. dirge: See darzi. dò chói: Vietnam. Bright red. : Very full skirt like those worn in Tyrolese festi- dò chót: See dò chói. val dress. ðò orí: Vietnam. Dark red. dirzee: See darzi. ðõ sô gai: Vietnam. Mourning clothes. disa: Nigeria. A blue striped scarf. do twarzy: Poland. Face powder. diseño: Spain. Design. dobby cloth: Any fabric woven on a . diseño a cuadro: Spain. Checks. doblados todos: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. diseño a cuadros escocés: Spain. Plaid. Lined throughout. diseño a rayas: Spain. Striped. dobladura: Spain. Fold. diseño con lunares: Spain. Polka dots. dobuku: Japan. Outer garment worn over armor. diseño raya de alfiler: Spain. Pin striped. dochu-gi: Japan. Traveling cape. dopatta 89 docrease: India. Striped muslin. that was flowered or quilted. Winter version of flan- dodo: 1. Sudan. Woman’s sarong. 2. Indonesia. Sa’dan- nel or cashmere printed in chintz pattern. Favored by Toraja woman’s skirt. middle and lower classes. dodot: Indonesia (Java). Skirt cloth four times the size dolman: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Austro-Hungarian of a kain. Worn draped and folded as an overskirt by Empire. Coat or jacket that was worn under mente. officials and members of the court. Cut straight from shoulder seams or fitted to waist dodowa: Ashanti. Bobbin. from which it flared out. Fastened with loops and doeskin: 1. Very smooth, tightly woven, fine quality buttons. woolen fabric made from merino wool. 2. Heavy- dolman sleeve: Sleeve very wide weight, twill weave cotton fabric finished with short at armseye, fitted at wrist. nap on one side. 3. Suede-finished leather from sheep dolmanette: Gay Nineties (1890– and lamb skins. 4. Leather made from skin of the doe. 1900 C.E.). Crocheted dolman dofuku: Japan. Samurai’s outer that tied at neck with large rib- garment. bon bow. dog collar: Wide necklace worn doloman: Russia. Hussar jacket. snug around neck. Dom pedro: Brazil. Heavy work dogaline: Early Gothic (1200–1350 shoe. C.E.) to Elizabethan (1550–1625 domette: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). C.E.). Italy. Venetian fashion fea- Loosely woven flannel with cot- turing a straight, loose gown with ton warp and woolen weft. dofuku wide sleeves. The lower edge of domino: Early Georgian (1700– sleeve was pinned up to the shoulder, revealing un- 1750 C.E.). Cloak, often black, dergown sleeve. that was worn to masquerades. dogi: Japan. A sleeveless coat. donariere: Bustle (1865–1890 dolman sleeve dogskin: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian C.E.). France. Introduced in 1869, woman’s round (1750–1790 C.E.). Heavyweight sheepskin leather hood of quilted satin with sleeved pelerine. used for or hawking gloves. Doncaster riding coat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). ðôi -tãt: Vietnam. Pair of socks. United Kingdom. Worn in 1850s, man’s loose New- ðôí bông: Vietnam. Pair of earrings. market coat. Doitsu ahina: United States of America. Hawaiian term donegal: Originally thick homespun woolen fabric from for blue denim imported from Germany. Donegal, Scotland. Now any tweed with colorful dolaktanka: Bulgaria. Short-sleeved coat. thick slubs woven in irregularly. dolama: Bulgaria. Long-sleeved coat that opens in front. ðông-hò ðeo tay: Vietnam. Wristwatch. : (1930–1940 C.E.). United States of America. ðông-ho quá quít: Vietnam. . Introduced in 1938 by Schiaparelli, tiny explosion of Dongola kid: Sheep, goat, or kangaroo skin. flowers and feathers held on the head by ribbon that doni: Nigeria. A gown worn by the chief. It has four tied under chin. studs for closure. bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United donje rublje: Bosnia. Underwear. Kingdom. Popular from 1868 to 1889, woman’s bea- donkerblauw: Holland. Mazarine blue. ver bonnet that tied with ribbon and was trimmed donn: Ireland. Gaelic word for brown. with crystal and silver bird. donn laugh-na-h-éilde: Ireland. Fawn brown. Dolly Varden cap: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Donna Maria: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Long sleeve Kingdom. Popular in 1888, small cap of gathered lace that was full to elbow and fitted to wrist. and ribbon worn with teagown. donn-ghlas: Ireland. Gaelic word for ash colored. Dolly Varden dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United donn-uaine: Ireland. Gaelic word for an olive brown Kingdom. Popular from 1868 to 1889, revival version color. of panniered polonaise gown of Georgian periods. donsu: Japan. Silk satin damask. Dolly Varden hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United don’t mentions: See unmentionables. Kingdom. Worn from 1871 to 1875, woman’s low dooputty: India. Dupatta. crowned, wide brimmed, straw hat with minimal dootl’izh: Navajo. Blue. trim that was worn at forward angle and tied under dop: See knoop. chignon with ribbon. dopairi: India. Indoor cap or two half-moon shapes Dolly Varden polonaise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). sewn together. United Kingdom. Introduced in 1871, chintz or cre- dopatta: India. Silk or muslin scarf that is often deco- tonne polonaise gown worn with bright silk petticoat rated with gold or silver threads. 90 dorado dorado: Yellowish orange. d’Orsay roll: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- doramché: Bulgaria. Sleeveless clat. dom. In late 1830s, high beaver hat had full rolling doré: France. Golden. brim named for Count Gabriel d’Orsay (1801–1852). dorea: See doriya. Dorset thread button: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) dorelet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Hairnet embroi- to Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Underwear button dered with jewels. made on brass wire ring covered in white cotton dori: India. Thread or chain stitch. threads that radiated out from center. doria: 1. India. Cotton fabric with stripes of various dorsetteen: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late widths. 2. Swahili. Colored muslin. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Fabric with worsted warp doric chiton: Greek (3000–100 and silk weft. B.C.E.). Worn by all Greek women dorso: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Back of the after sixth century B.C.E., wool gauntlet. chiton with upper edge folded dos: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Back-plate of down over breast. Folded around a cuirass. one side of the body, pinned at dosan-banntraich: Ireland. Gaelic word for a braid. shoulders, and held in place with doschella: Hindu. Long shawl. doric chiton girdle. Often dyed indigo, mad- doshala: India. Pair of shawls. der, or saffron. In Corinth and doshāllā: India. Round skirted court robe that tied on Attica, sewn together down side below waist. the right side. dorina: Bosnia. Checkered cloak that covers wearer doso: Ashanti. Fiber kilt. from head to toe. dosooty: See do-suti. doriya: India. Striped or checked fine muslin. dossière: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. The dormeuse: Late Georgian (1750– back-piece of the cuirass. 1790 C.E.). Soft ladies’ cap with do-suta: See do-suti. ruched border that fitted the head do-suti: India. Cheap cotton woven with doubled snugly, covering the cheeks. Held threads. on with ribbon that tied on top of doti: India. Coarse cotton cloth woven by Dhers. the head. For day, it had pinners dotted swiss: See swiss muslin. and brim that turned up at the dotted Venetian bars: Venetian bars with French knots. nape. dou: China. Pocket. dormilonas: Peru. Fourteen carat dou bo: China. Qing dynasty. Cape, originally made of gold filigree earrings. palm fiber and hemp. dormouse: See dormeuse. dou dou: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Han dornag: Ireland. Gaelic word for a woman’s cotton or silk, small triangular upper body glove or gauntlet. garment. Covered the breasts and stomach. Held on dorneck: Renaissance (1450–1550 with silver chain or tape. Often embroidered. dormeuse C.E.). United Kingdom. Linen dou niu: China. Under Zhengde emperor (r. 1505– fabric made in Norfolk used for servant’s clothes. 1521), first rank of embroidery on gowns; three or dornick: 1. France. Any fabric made in Tournai. 2. Scot- four clawed dragons with downward curving horns. land. Damask-like fabric made in Dornoch. dou wu: China. Zhuong dynasty. Helmet. dorn-nasq: Ireland. Gaelic word for a bracelet. douanier: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, shade of dorretteen: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 blue. C.E.). Made in Norwich, silk and wool twist with thin double: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- invisible stripes introduced in 1792. dom. To be lined. d’Orsay coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- double bouffant sleeves: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). dom. Introduced in 1838, man’s overcoat shaped United Kingdom. Popular from 1832 to 1836, wom- like a pilot coat but fitted at waist with a long dart. an’s short puffed evening sleeve with horizontal Slashed or flapped pockets in knee-length skirts and band dividing it into two puffs. Revived in 1855 as no pleats, folds, or hip buttons. day sleeve with band placed just above the elbow. The plain sleeves trimmed with double cuff: Shirt cuff turned back to make two cuff three or four horn or gambroon thicknesses. buttons. double damask: Fine linen, cotton, or rayon and cotton d'Orsay pump d’Orsay pump: Romantic (1815– damask. See also photospread 1840 C.E.). In 1830s, shoe with double ikat: Indonesia. Ikat process requiring the bind- (Foot and Legwear). cutaway sides and low, wide heel. ing and dyeing of both warp and weft threads. 91 double knit: Firm, often reversible, fabric made on spe- drap: 1. Soft, silky wool twill. 2. France. Cloth. cial loom with double set of needles. drap d’Alma: France. Twilled fabric. double-face satin: Satin fabric with two warps and one drap d’Argent: France. Cloth of silver. weft which create satin effect on both sides of fabric. drap de Berry: France. Woolen fabric made in berry. doublet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration drap de billard: France. Baize. (1660–1700 C.E.). Variety of gambesson made in rich drap de France: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- cloth. Began in military and later worn by civilians. duced in 1871, double twilled cashmere. Sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, standard man’s drap de Paris: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Intro- garment. See also pourpoint. duced in 1860, very fine soft fabric. doublure: France. Lining. drap de soldat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1878, very doublure du chapeau: France. Hat lining. heavy cloth. doudoukur: China. Child’s sun suit. drap de : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. doudu: China. Baby bib. Also called tou-tu. Introduced in 1861, thick soft velvet-like fabric. douillette: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 drap de : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- C.E.). France. Woman’s winter quilted pelisse. 2. duced in 1866, ribbed poplin. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). By 1830s, redingote with drap d’eté: France. Literally “cloth of summer,” light caped pelerine of merino, cashmere, or satin, made twill weave woolen fabric. with wide sleeves. drap d’or: France. Cloth of gold. douillette à la Russienne: Directoire and First Empire drap feutre: France. Felt cloth. (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Woman’s cloak with warm, drap fourreau: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- usually wadded, lining fashionable after 1802. duced in 1867, thick smooth fabric with plush face doulì: China. Bamboo hat. on one side. doupeng: China. Cape. drap laitiere: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, striped doupion: Silk thread made from two cocoons. Thread is woolen fabric. irregular and thick. Used in slubbed fabrics. drap o drapé: Italy. Drap. douzi: China. Pocket. drap ou drapé: France. Drap. : Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Coarse linen from drap roulier: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, woolen Brittany used by lower classes for shirts and smocks. fabric. downy calves: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United drapanos rubai: See drabuzis. Kingdom. False pads worn by men in appropriate Drapé: Germany. Drap. places in tights to produce more attractive legs. drape cut: (1930–1940 C.E.). United Kingdom. The broad DPM: (1970–1980 C.E.). Scotland. Literally “disruptive shouldered, high belted men’s suits popularized by pattern material,” a camouflage fabric used to make Frederick Scholte, tailor to the Prince of Wales. This military uniforms. fashion was later renamed the American cut. draad: Holland. Thread. drapi: India. 1. Woman’s embroidered coat. 2. A close- drab: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Thick, strong, fitting embroidered vest worn by both sexes. 3. Cloak. wool fabric in dull brown or gray color. drapo: Italy. Silk cloth. drab style: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). drappus: See textum. From 1800 to 1810, the muted colors of pale browns, drawboys: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late olives, and yellows that predominated women’s fash- Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Figured materials made ion. on where treadles were run by boys. drabbet: United Kingdom. Coarse linen fabric in drab color. drawers: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to 20th century. drabužis: Lithuania. Clothing. Undergarments worn by both draft: See amen. genders made from linen or dragocennost’: Russia. Jewel. hide. dragon’s blood cane: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). drawings out: See pullings out. Man’s cane made from frond stems of the Dragon drawn bonnet: Woman’s bonnet Palm from Malay. made by gathering fabric over dragoonka: Russia. Dragoon cap introduced under Al- hoops of cane, reed, or wire. exander III. The name was shortened from dragoon- drawn seams: Seams that have skia shapka. been lapped and stitched down. dragoonskia shapka: See dragoonka. drawn thread work: A technique dragulj: Croatia and Serbia. Jewel. in which threads are removed drahokam: See klenot. from the ground to form an drawers drana: See vadmala. open weave fabric. Dover Publications 92 drawn work

drawn work: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to 20th cen- drill: Stout twill weave linen made from coarse yarns. tury. Form of linen decoration where threads are drillette: United Kingdom. Satin weave cotton fabric. removed. See also lacis. driubhlach: Ireland. Gaelic word for cowl. dreach-bhuidhe: Ireland. Gaelic word for “beautifully driving-cape: See Albert driving-cape. yellow.” drobé: Lithuania. Fine linen cloth. dreadnought: Heavy, unattractive, woolen fabric used drògaid: Ireland. 1. Drugget. 2. Linsey-woolsey. 3. Russet. for outer garments. droghette: Italy. Droguet. dreas: Ireland. Gaelic word for dress. droguet: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). drebe: See vadmala. Coarse wool fabric with cotton, silk, or linen warp. drebes: Lithuania. Clothing. Used formerly for coarse clothing, petticoats, and coats. drebnieks: Lithuania. Tailor. droguete: Portugal. Droguet. dreieckige Faltung: Germany. Handkerchief folded so droineach: Ireland. Gaelic word for a ragged garment. that only one corner appears out of the pocket. Droop Snoot: See Flying Saucer. Dreispitz: Germany. Tricorn. drugget: See droguet. Dresden point lace: Germany. Drawn work made in druid’s cloth: Rough, basket weave fabric similar to Dresden on ground of fine linen. monk’s cloth. Dresden silk: Silk fabric decorated with small floral effects. druin: Ireland. Gaelic word for needlework or embroi- Dresden work: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Muslin dery. with drawn thread embroidery. It was stronger than drum farthingale: See farthingale. lace so was used for garments in daily use. Drummond: United Kingdom. Twill weave worsted. dress clip: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. du Barry corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United In 1840s, metal hook was attached to waist of many Kingdom. Introduced in 1850, woman’s evening women’s garments. From the hook hung a chain with dress fashion with ruching reaching from shoulders clip at end to hitch up skirt when walking. Often in to form under-stomacher. shape of Negro’s head. du Barry sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- dress elevator: See porte- pompadour. dom. Introduced in 1850, woman’s large day sleeve dress flannel: Napped woolen fabric. with bouffant above elbow and one above wrist. dress holder: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. dual: Ireland. Gaelic word for a lock of hair. In 1870s, fancy dress clip with two chains and clips. dualadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for embroidery. dress improver: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Small bustle duàn: China. Satin. in 1880s. duandàyi: China. Short overcoat. dress linen: Firm, plain weave linen fabric. duantongxue: China. Ankle boots. dress lounge: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. duànwén: China. Satin weave. Worn after 1888, man’s informal evening jacket worn duànzi: China. Satin. only when ladies were not present. dubbahah: Palestine. Tassel. dress protector: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 20th cen- dubhach: Ireland. Gaelic word for black dye. tury. United Kingdom. From 1840s, crescent shaped dubh-bhuidhe: Ireland. Gaelic word for a dark yellow. piece of fabric sewn into bottom of armseyes to pre- dubh-ghlas: Ireland. Gaelic word for dark gray. vent sweat stains. dubh-ghorm: Ireland. Gaelic word for dark blue. dress Wellington: Romantic dubh-ruadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for dark red. (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crinoline ducape: Corded silk fabric. (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- duchess: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Ribbon bow dom. Worn from 1830 to around worn on . 1850, man’s evening Duchess: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, woman’s that resembled slipper and stock- plain cloak trimmed with velvet strips. ing made in one piece. It reached duchesse: Heavy, soft fabric. to just below knee. Duchesse: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, -scarf dresse: See clothe. with fitted bodice. Ended in deep knotted fringe. dreumelthoelje: Elizabethan duchesse lace: A lace similar in look to Honiton, it is a (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. A pillow lace made of linen thread. brimless hat similar to a fez. duchesse pleat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- drilbu: Tibet. A pendant shaped dom. Introduced in 1875, series of four box pleats on like a tiny bell. each side of center back of woman’s skirt. dríli: Greece. Cotton material used duchesse satin: Lustrous satin weave fabric with plain dreumelthoelje to make everyday clothing. back. 93 duchowny: Poland. Jewish scholar’s fur cap. Durene: Trade name for woven or knitted fabrics of duck: Strong, tightly woven linen or cotton, plain or rib mercerized yarns. weave fabric. Lighter and finer than canvas. Duretta: Trade name for middy twill or jean. duck-billed shoes: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). duretty: See durance. Slipper-like shoes with very wide, square toes. durol bedyeli: A hairstyle worn by a widow during the duck-hunter: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to present. last week of her mourning period. Man’s short, striped linen jacket worn by waiters. durol bedyeli puDaaDo: Africa. A hairstyle worn by a dudda: Ethiopia. Skin skirt for a Sidamo woman. bride during the last week of the period of seclusion dudhai kanjai: India. Pearl gray. before entering into marriage. dudhia khaki: India. Light slate gray. durol cakaol: Africa. A hairstyle worn by young girls duffel: Coarse woolen fabric. and married women. duffer: See British warm. durol chuddito: Africa. A hairstyle worn by a widow duffle coat: See British warm. during her five month period of seclusion. dugme: See puce. durol pila dorungol: Africa. A hairstyle worn by a ðui: Vietnam. Silk; shantung. young mother during the week following her return duibleid: Ireland. Gaelic word for doublet. to her husband with their newborn. duikerpak: Holland. Diving suit. durol tyeli: Africa. A hairstyle worn by a mother during duire: Ireland. Gaelic word for dirk. the three weeks following the naming ceremony of dukr: See klœði. her newborn child. dukula: India. A woven silk or white fabric. durol yesool: Africa. A hairstyle worn by little girls. dukulottariya: India. Upper body garment; wrapper or duroy: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Coarse wool shawl. fabric similar to tammy. dulamás: Greece. Sleeved festival vest. durra’a: See dura’ah. dulándle: Hungary. Large white tulle veil with corner durzi: Palestine. Indigo dyed cotton fabric used for embroidered in colored crewel. Worn by brides for women’s dresses. first few years of their marriage. dusa: India. Woolen chaddar. dulápi: Greece. Material that has been beaten with dushagreia: Russia. Woman’s wooden paddles. embroidered, padded jacket of dulband: Iran. Local name for Muslim turban. brocade or velvet. dulbén: Greece. White cotton kerchief worn on the head. dushegreya: Russia. Man’s short, dulboka pazva: Bulgaria. Deep fold in smock above padded, and lined jacket with waist. long sleeves. Made from scarlet dullemoese: Denmark. Nightcap. damask or red velvet. duluma: Romania. Man’s folk jacket edged with braid. dust gown: Elizabethan (1550– dun: Dull grayish brown. 1625 C.E.). Outer gown worn dundreary whiskers: See dundrearys. when riding. dundrearys: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Very long dust of Paris: Crinoline (1840– men’s side whiskers. 1865 C.E.). Ecru. ðung: Vietnam. Trouser crotch. dust of ruins: Romantic (1815– dungaree: 1. India. Coarse calico fabric. 2. Overalls. 1840 C.E.). Color of a squirrel. dunkelblau: Germany. Blue black. dust ruffle: See balayeuse. dunne ochtendjas: Holland. Negligee. : Long, lightweight coat. duster dunniattham: India. A woman’s loincloth. dusya: India. A costly woolen cloth. dunstable: Plated straw hat. Dutch blue: Shade of blue lighter dunster: Early Gothic (100–1350 C.E.). United Kingdom. and brighter than navy. In early 14th century, a broadcloth made in Somer- Dutch bonnet: Directoire and setshire, United Kingdom. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). dupattā: India. Mantle or veil. United States of America. dura’ah: Palestine. Woman’s plain, short-sleeved, front- Straw bonnet fashionably worn opening coat. Usually made from cotton, mostly in turned up in front and back af- indigo blue. ter 1802. durance: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Georgian Dutch cap: Holland. Lace or em- (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. Durable wool broidered muslin cap with fabric made in Norwich. point at top and wings that durazno: Spain. Peach color. flare away at sides. Dutch cap 94 Dutch cloak

Dutch cloak: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- duvetyn: Soft, twill weave fabric with suede on one dom. Man’s short cloak with wide sleeves. Often side. heavily trimmed with braids. Duvillier wig: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Man’s Dutch collar: Narrow, close fitting collar. long, high dress wig. Dutch lace: A misnomer for a dense Flemish bobbin dux collar: Crinoline (1840–1865 lace. C.E.) to 20th century. United Dutch neckline: Neckline cut two inches below throat. Kingdom. Worn from 1860s, Dutch skeleton dress: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United man’s shallow standing collar Kingdom. Popular fashion for young boys consisting with corners turned down in of a high-waisted coat, ankle-length trousers, and front. dux collar frilled collar. There were three vertical rows of buttons dvipadi: India. Trousers. on the coat. dwete ‘ka: Ashanti. Silver bangles. Dutch waist: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Dynel: Trade name for acrylic. Kingdom. Worn from around 1580 to 1620, woman’s dzaan: Tiv. Woman’s cloth of narrow stripes alternating bodice with square cut waist that was worn with colors, like black and white. wheel farthingale. dzákos: Greece. Small vest or bodice worn over the dutis: Spain. Dhoti. chemise. dutty: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Fine cloth. dzep: Croatia and Serbia. Pocket. duvetina: Spain. Duvetyne. dZi bead: Tibet. A bland and white or dark brown bead duvetine: See duvetyn. of etched or treated agate. E

e sa: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of America. ebosi: See ebo. Chinese Hawaiian term for a thin woolen material ebu: Nigeria. A gown worn only by the king. popular with both sexes. It was rather expensive and eburneo: Spain. Ivory color. was used for chun sams. ecaille work: France. Decorative needlework that used ‘ea malani: United States of America. Hawaii. Light quill pieces sewn on fabric to resemble scales. brown. écarlate: France. Scarlet. ‘ea ‘ula: United States of America. Hawaii. Wine col- ecarlate blanches: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Pale ored. crimson. eabonach: Ireland. Gaelic word for ebony colored. eccelide: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in ēadach: Ireland. Clothing. 1837, cashmere and silk blend fabric, chiné and ēaduighim: See cōirighim. striped. eaglewood brown: China. Yuan dynasty. Shade of echancre: France. To be slashed. brown. echarpe: France. Scarf worn wrapped around a hat. ear string: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Eccentricity of echelle: France. Ladder-like motif, like lacing on a period, black string worn through hole in left ear and woman’s bodice. hung on shoulder. echelon: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. Worn on earcap: Cap with tabs that cover the ears. ladies’ stomacher, these bows graduated in size from eared shoe: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Square-toed top to bottom gradually getting smaller. shoe. echizen: Japan. High quality silk dress fabric. earlet: Obsolete name for earring. ecorce: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Bark color. earlock: Lock of hair worn by ear. ecossais: France. Two-color fabric woven in lengthwise, earradh: Ireland. Gaelic word for clothing. alternating satin stripes and plain weave stripes. earthquake dress: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). écossaise hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Scotland. United Kingdom. Following two earthquakes in Woman’s hat cut higher in front than in back. Ribbon London in March 1750, fashion developed for warm hangs down back. gowns to wear outside overnight in case of a third ecrouellique: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 earthquake. C.E.). France. Woman’s cravat. bonnet: New hat worn on Easter Sunday. ecru: Color of unbleached cotton. eau de veau: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 ecru silk: Unbleached silk. C.E.). United States of America. Cosmetic used in ecureuil: France. Imitation sable. 1808. edau: Wales. Thread. ebbelo: Morocco. Thin white face-veil. eddimō: Ethiopia. King’s green cloak ornamented with ebo: Japan. A man’s small . gold and silver. ebolo: Nigeria. Cloth used in funerals. Edelmarder: Germany. Marten. ebomvu: Rhodesia. Ndebele term for the color red. edged Venetian bars: Variation of Venetian bars. ebon: Black. Editor: (1950–1960 C.E.). Man’s hairstyle with high side eboni: See ‘eponi. part, both sides swept up. eboshi: Japan. A nobleman’s stiff black hat. Edo kanoko: Japan. A purple painted kanoko.

95 96 eel skirt

eel skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United King- ekavali: India. Single string of pearls necklace. dom. In 1899, a woman’s day skirt that was cut on ekaveni: India. Woman’s single long braid. bias into five gores. All the gores except the center ekawa: Japan. Painted leather. front had circular . It fastened in front or on side ‘ekemau‘u: United States of America. Hawaii. Burlap. and was fitted over the hips and flared to ground. eko: See lafun. eelskin sleeve: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Woman’s ekpe cloth: See ukara. close fitting sleeve. Fashionable again in 1880 and 1881. el costal: Mexico. Zoque Indian woman’s wraparound eelskin trousers: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1880s, very skirt worn with a large fold (la bolsa) in front. tight trousers worn by dandies. elastic: Cording, thread, or fabric woven from India een broek: Holland. Pair of trousers. rubber. ‘éétsoh ‘álts’íígíí: Navajo. Jacket. elastic hat: See . effronter: France. Decorative patch worn on nose. elastic net: See flexible net. ‘efu ‘efu: Samoa. Gray color. elastic-sided boots: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1836, egasuri: Japan. A pictorial . shoes with gussets of elastic on each side. egeni bitte: Ibo. Cloth made of broad strips in various elatch: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). India. Striped silk. shades of blue. elatcha: See elatch. eggplant: Bronze purple. elbas: Palestine. Women’s early pants of thick hand- eggshell: Yellowish white. woven cotton. Lower legs were richly embroidered. eglantine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, a cloak Elbert Hubbard tie: Dark tie about nine inches wide that was semi-fitted in the body. Lined with silk. and cut on bias that was worn tied like a Windsor tie. egret: Plume of egret or heron. elbow cloak: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- Egyptian brown: Directoire and First Empire (1790– than (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s short cloak. 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Brown. elbow cuff: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Woman’s Egyptian cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in turned-back cuff on elbow-length sleeves. 1866, soft silk and wool blend fabric. elbow gauntlet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Metal or Egyptian cotton: Egypt. Long-staple, fine, strong, leather glove with cuff that reached to the shoulder. brownish cotton. elbow sleeve: Sleeve reaching to or just below sleeve. Egyptian indigo: from the shrub Cracca apo- elbow-cops: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Elbow- linea in southern Europe. pieces of plate armor. Egyptian lace: Knotted lace, often beaded. elderberry: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1868, gray pur- eha: Namibia. Man’s back ornament of leather, metal, ple. and beaten wire. eldergreen: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, dark green. éhuáng: China. Light yellow. ‘ele hiwa: United States of America. Hawaii. Jet black. ehuatl: Mexico. Aztec military garment covered with electoral cloth: See biretz. feathers. electra cloth: Cotton or silk and synthetic blend um- ei: Japan. The streamer on a nobleman’s hat. brella fabric. Eichhörnchen: Germany. Squirrel fur. electrum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Amber, the éideadh: Ireland. Generic term for clothing. stone. eiderdown: 1. Soft down from breast and body of eider ‘ele‘ele: United States of America. Hawaii. Black. duck. 2. Lightweight fabric, knitted or woven with ‘ele‘ele kanikau: United States of America. Hawaii. nap on one or both sides. Black crepe worn for mourning. eillets panaches: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1880, a elegant: France. Fashionable man. dress where the skirt was covered with alternating eleganté: France. Fashionable woman. narrow pleated flounces of two colors. ‘ele‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Shiny black. eip’uron: Korea. Apron. elek: Bulgaria. Sleeveless jacket. eis wool: Fine, glossy, wiry woolen yarn used for elephant cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in . 1869, fabric made of twisted flax cord, appearing to Eisenhower jacket: (1940–1949 C.E.). United States of have been woven like a basket. America. Man’s khaki waist-length military jacket elephant pants: Trousers with very wide legs. with convertible collar, shoulder yoke, front-opening elephant sleeve: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United banded waist, and long, cuffed sleeves. Popularized Kingdom. Appearing around 1830, woman’s very by General Eisenhower during World War II and large day sleeve made in a light fabric. Majority of worn by civilians after the war. fullness hung toward cuff resembling elephant’s ear. Eisenkappe: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, large cape on Skull-cap of steel. Moldavian mantle. en pouf 97

‘eleuli: United States of America. Hawaii. Grayish empire skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. black. Worn from 1888 to the 1890s, day skirt that gathered elevator shoes: Shoes with raised inner sole. at waist and ended with gathered ruffle at hem. For eleven gore ripple skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). evening, it was ruched at the hem and embroidered United Kingdom. In 1895, a woman’s 11-gore day with flowers. In 1892, day version had two straight skirt that was fitted at hips and full at bottom (up to panels in front and two triangular gores on each side. 20 feet in circumference). Hem was lined and stiff- Slightly trained. ened with horsehair. Empress: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In June 1854, Eliottine silk: Knitting silk. silk mantelet cut low in neck. Trimmed with falls of ell: Measurement of length often applied to fabric. Var- lace and ribbon. 2. In November 1854, velvet pelerine ied from country to country, hence in United King- with back box-pleated to yoke. It was elaborately dom it was 45 inches; in Scotland 37.2 inches; and in embroidered. the Netherlands 27 inches. empress cloth: 1. Double faced, twill weave, wool or ellementes: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration wool and cotton blend fabric. 2. Calico with red and (1660–1700 C.E.). Worsted fabric. yellow pattern. elliotine silk: Knitting silk. Empress Eugenie hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Pop- elliptic collar: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- ularized by Empress Eugenie for riding and travel- dom. Introduced in 1853, patent detachable collar ing, this hat had a flat crown and a rolled brim with with fronts reaching higher than back. ribbons trailing down the back. elminetta: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late empress gauze: Fine flowered, satin weave fabric with Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Thin cotton fabric. silk gauze ground and linen figures. elmo di giostra: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Empress pardessus: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, Tilting-helm. cloth or velvet pardessus trimmed with fur. Particu- elysian: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Woolen fabric with larly popular in France. diagonal nap used for overcoats. empress petticoat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United embozalada: See puntada limeña. Kingdom. Introduced in 1866, woman’s evening embroidered batiste: Allover embroidered eyelet. dress petticoat gored at waist, reaching eight yards ‘emelala: United States of America. Hawaii. Emerald. in circumference at hem with yard long . It was emerala: See ‘emelala. trimmed with deep flounce above knee and was sub- emerald: Bright green. stituted for the cage crinoline. emeraude: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, en beret: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. After 1840, deep emerald green. arrangement of woman’s hair and cap. Emily: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, silk mantilla en Cavalier: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, wom- trimmed with shamrock embroidered and sewing- an’s riding habit with cavalier style collar and em- silk fringe. broidered cambric cuffs. Jacket was trimmed with eminence: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. buttons. Color of crushed strawberry. 2. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 en coeur: France. Heart-shaped neckline. C.E.). In 1893, a violet color with splash of red. en colimaçon: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 eminii: Bulgaria. Flat, stitched leather shoes. C.E.). France. Woman’s hairstyle arranged like a snail. empeines: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Bands en coulisse: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. After over the instep of a shoe. 1840, arrangement of puffs as trim. emperor shirt: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- en dos d’ane: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). In 1780, dom. Worn from 1850 to 1860s, man’s red flannel man’s hairstyle with ponytail and side pieces. shirt worn by gentlemen in the country. en échelle de Jacob: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). empire bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- France. To be trimmed in shape of Jacob’s ladder. dom. Introduced in 1889, woman’s evening bodice en fourreau lace: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). that gave appearance of being high waisted by a France. To be tightly laced to body like sheath. number of silk scarves being draped across front and en manche: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. After tied on side or back. 1840, to be made with cuffs. empire cap: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1860, wom- en Marquise: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Square neck- an’s small bonnet that tied under the chin. It was line. trimmed with ribbon. en platitude: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. empire jupon: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- Term meaning ruchings. dom. Gored petticoat with two or three steel hoops at en pouf: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. To be bottom; worn from 1850 to 1867. tufted. 98 en pouf à la Luxembourg

en pouf à la Luxembourg: Late Georgian (1750–1790 English farthingale: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). C.E.). France. To be worn in tufted style. Introduced Worn from 1580s to 1620s, woman’s roll farthingale in Luxembourg Gardens in Paris. without any flattening of line in front. en ravanche: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Ar- English foot: High fashioned hose with seam on each rangement of flowers and ribbon worn on head and side of foot. tilted toward left eye. English gown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Long, en tablier: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. To give simple gown of rich, simple fabric. apron effect. English hood: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Worn en tout cas: United Kingdom. Combination umbre- from 1500 to 1540s, woman’s hood and under lla and parasol. It was often brightly colored and cap combination. The hood was wired in front to without external trim. It had an elaborate handle form pointed arch above the forehead. The under and plain cover. It was an English invention with a cap completely covered hair after around 1525. French name that waned in popularity after 1908. The back of hood hung loosely until 1525, when it ‘ena: Samoa. Light brown. evolved into two lappets that were sometimes worn ‘ena‘ena: Samoa. Brown. pinned up. ‘ena‘ena mumu: Samoa. Auburn. English mohair: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1871, wiry enagua: 1. Mexico. Woman’s skirt gathered to waist- cotton and wool blend suiting. band. Trimmed with flounces or lace. 2. Spain. Slip; English nightgown: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). petticoat. 3. Ecuador. White cotton petticoat. 4. Mex- Unboned informal dress. ico. Made by the Zoque Indians, a handwoven huipil. English ringlet: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Ring- enagua de lana: Spain. Balmoral petticoat. lets worn on either side of the face. enarme: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Attachments on English rosette: . back of shield by which it was held to the arm. English scarlet: (1930–1940 C.E.). A new color. enbraude: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). To be embroi- English velveteen: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). New vel- dered. veteen. encaje: Spain. Lace. English work: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 encaje chantilli: Spain. . C.E.). Very fine Anglo-Saxon embroidery made from encaje de aguja: Spain. Needlepoint lace. seventh to tenth century. 2. Renaissance (1450–1550 encaje de àngel: Spain. Angel lace. C.E.). United Kingdom. Gold thread embroidery encaje de bolillos: Spain. Bobbin lace. with silk figures. encaje de Lila: Spain. Lille lace. English wrap: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1840s, encaje de Malinas: Spain. Malines lace. man’s double-breasted paletot-sac similar to loose encaje de malla cuadrada: Spain. Filet lace. Chesterfield. encaje de Milano: Spain. Milano lace. engreynen: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). To dye the encaje estrecho de algodón: Spain. . thread before weaving. encaje frivolité: Spain. Tatting lace. enjoueé: France. Decorative patch worn on fold of encaje hecho a maquina: Spain. Nottingham lace. mouth when laughing. encaje suizo: Spain. Guipure. enredo: Mexico. Aztec woman’s wraparound skirt. encarnado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Red- enredos: Mexico. Woman’s wrap skirt. dish. enseigne: France. Pilgrim’s badge. encerado: Portugal. Oilcloth. ensign blue: Dark navy blue. end of the day: Glass canes so named because they ensign cloth: Plain weave cotton or linen fabric used for were created by glass blowers at the end of the work bunting and flags. day. entre-deux: France. Very narrow insertion lace used in endima: Morocco. Jewish woman’s buckled belt, embroi- fine lingerie. dered with gold thread. Matches color of the dress. entretela: 1. Portugal. Gusset. 2. Spain. Interfacing. engageantes: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. entretela fusible: Spain. Fusible interfacing. Lace cuffs with two or three graduated ruffles which envelope bag: Envelope shaped handbag. were worn commonly on women’s gowns. envelope combination: (1910–1920 C.E.). In 1915, a engkudu: Borneo. Red. woman’s one piece undergarment made with ribbon English bars: Long Venetian bars. shoulder straps, drawstring neckline, and button English chain: Romantic (1840–1865 C.E.). Chatelaine. front closure. English cottage bonnet: See bibi bonnet. envuelto: Guatemala. Wraparound skirt. English edging: See angleterre. eobhrat: Ireland. Gaelic word for headdress. : Fine eyelet embroidery. eolica: Spain. Eolienne. Escurial 99 eolienne: Plain weave, silk and worsted or silk and sors, thimble, etc. cotton fabric with cross cord. Similar to poplin but er: China. Jade or pearl earring. lighter in weight. See also aeolian. er dang: China. Pearl or jade ear ornament. eolienne diagonal: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In erdif: Berber woman’s square . 1892, an eolienne with diagonal stripes. erhuán: China. Earrings. ‘epane: United States of America. Hawaii. Apron. eri: 1. Japan. A long collar. 2. India. A type of wild silk epanechka: Russia. Short, circular cape worn by women produced mainly in Assam. for visits and holidays. erinoid: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Introduced epangeline: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in around 1897, plastic made from powdered milk. 1868, wool rep-like material. ermellini: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Highly epani: See ‘epane. valued fur, ermine. Used primarily on edges of gar- epaules Americaines: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). ments like and sleeves. French term for American shoulders. ermellino: Italy. Ermine. epaulet: Shoulder ornament intended to widen shoul- ermine: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Most valued der line. of all furs, reserved by law for royalty. Took its name epaulet sleeve: Sleeve extended over shoulder. from Herminia (Armenia). 2. Hide of the Mustela epauleti: Russia. Epaulets. erminea, a member of the weasel family with a white : of a corset. coat in winter and a beige coat in summer. The tail of épaulière: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Shoul- the animal is black. der piece reaching from backpiece to breastplate in ešarpa: See marama. armor. esawra: See swar. ephod: Hebrew. Two rectangular pieces of linen escaffignons: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 roughly 30 inches by 10 inches joined over shoulder C.E.). In 12th century, light shoe in rich fabric. 2. Re- with 10-inch-long straps. Worn on top of the robe naissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Very tight flat shoes that with girdle similar to those worn by Levites that were slashed on top. wrapped around the body and tied in front. Worn by escarelle: See aumoniere. the high priest. escarlata: Spain. Crimson; scarlet. epingeaua: See chepeneag. escarlata subido: Spain. Hunter’s pink. épingle: France. Pin brooch. escarlate: Portugal. Scarlet. epingle: France. Fine, lustrous, silk fabric that is ribbed escarpins: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). or corded. Heeled, pointed toed shoes of soft leather. épingle à chevaux: France. Hairpin. eschapins: See escaffignons. epingles de nourrice: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In esclaud: Holland. A wooden 1891, very large gold-headed pins. shoe, often referred to as a epingline: Silk or rayon and worsted fabric with crepe clog, worn in factories, mines, surface. and farms. epingline chevron soie: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). esclavage: Late Georgian (1750– esclaud In 1891, plum corded ground with watered design in 1790 C.E.). France. Woman’s See also photospread black and gold. necklace made of several gold (Foot and Legwear). epingline flotté soie: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In chains that were draped across 1891, a brown and red striped fabric with diagonal bosom. Named for resemblance to slave fetters. rows of black and gold. esclavina: Spain. Bertha. epingline raye: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, tis- esclavine: See sclavyn. sue with appearance of uncut velvet. esclote: See esclaud. epinglorie brochée: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, escocés: Spain. Tartan. cotton and wool blend. escoffion: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Tall headdress, epitoga: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Cloak worn over sometimes in shape of two horns. Commonly had the toga. Later, it was a wide, unbelted robe with bell veil around yard square. sleeves. In 13th century, it reappeared as an academic escote: Spain. Neckline. robe. escote en U: Spain. Scoop neckline. epomine: See epitoga. escuaypiles: Aztec. Manta and cotton fabric. eponge: Soft fabric made with nubby, twisted yarn. escudete: Spain. Gusset. ‘eponi: United States of America. Hawaii. Ebony. Escurial: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, Lyons silk equipage: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Ornamental scarf-shawl trimmed with black velvet edged with case that hung from chatelaine and held knife, scis- lace. 100 esgid esgid: Wales. Shoe. feather down. Eskimo cloth: Heavy napped overcoating fabric in északi: See haraszt. plain colors or broad stripes. ētach: See dīllat. Esmerelda: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, fitted etam: Ashanti. Girl’s loincloth. silk pardessus trimmed with two rows of lace. etamine: Lightweight, open plain weave fabric made esmoquin: Spain. Tuxedo. from variety of yarns. Made in variety of weights. esmouchoir: Fly whisk or fan. etamine broché: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). France. esono: Ashanti. Red dye. In 1896, a semitransparent fabric. espadrille: Rope-soled shoe with etapi: Namibia. Man’s pleated cotton skirt. At one time, canvas or leather upper. See also it was made of hide. alpargata. etibo: Nigeria. A man’s long shirt worn with a wrapper espartilho de senhora: Portugal. or trousers. Corset. ētim: Ireland. Gaelic word meaning to clothe or to dress. esparto: Rough fabric of esparto ētiuth: See dīllat. espadrille grass. étoffe: France. Cloth. See also drap. See also photospread espèce d’ouvrage à jour: France. étoffe écossaise: France. Plaid. (Foot and Legwear). Rickrack. etoile: Lustrous satin fabric used for dresses. espécie de jaqueta: Portugal. Spenser. étole: France. Stole. esprits: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Eton cap: United Kingdom. Fitted cap with visor similar France. Aigrettes worn upright in hair or hat; worn to those worn by boys at Eton College. after 1802. Eton collar: Large, stiff, turnover espuelas: Ecuador and Guatemala. Barberry. collar originally worn by stu- espulgeata: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. De- dents at Eton College, United fleaed. Kingdom. espuma: Ecuador and Guatemala. Thread of synthetic Eton jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 material. C.E.). United Kingdom. Fashion- esquavar: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Prussia. able for women, a short jacket Military closely fitted trousers. They were worn with with lapels, similar to those leather breeches. worn by boys at Eton College. esqui: Portugal. . Etruscan cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 esquilo: Portugal. Squirrel. C.E.). Introduced in 1873, rough Eton collar esquirole: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Squirrel. fabric similar to terry. estaches: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Strings etu: 1. Nigeria. Narrow band of finely woven fabric that that tied hose to doublet. is dyed deep blue black and used for funerals. 2. Yo- estameña: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Serge. rube. Natural fiber black cloth speckled with white. estamene: Coarse worsted, loosely woven fabric. etui: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Term for estameya: See sobrepantalón rajado. equipage that first appeared in 1610. estamine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1876, Eugenie blue: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Color of a thick serge. pale cornflower. estampado: Portugal. Printed cloth. Eugenie hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Named for esterhazy: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Silver gray. Empress Eugenie, a woman’s small hat with brim estofado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Stuffed turned up on left side or on both sides. It was worn with cotton. trimmed with ostrich plumes and tilted to the right. estofée: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Quilted. Eugenie purse: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, estopa: Portugal. Lockram. woman’s small crocheted bag. estopilla: Spain. Cheesecloth. Eulalie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, crocheted, estrain: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Straw used for tulip-shaped purse. hat making. Eureka: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, woman’s Estramadura: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, full basque with deep, scalloped flounce that was remov- circle cloak trimmed with plush and velvet bands. able to serve as a shawl. estrella: Plain weave, silk crepe. eventail: France. Fan. estrich: See estrith. eveque: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1897, purple. estridge: See estrith. everlastings: See durance. estrith: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan ewu: Yorubu beaded garments. (1550–1625 C.E.). Felted material made from ostrich exametum: See . ezor 101 exhibition checks: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United eyelash: Fabric with fringed surface resembling eye- Kingdom. Large checked fabric used for trousers in lashes. 1851, the year of the Great Exhibition. eyelet doublet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United exomia: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Sleeveless chiton Kingdom. Doublet of twine or thread knitted all over worn pinned on one shoulder by athletes and work- in eyelets or buttonholes. It resembled macramé or men. Often made of sheepskin or leather. tatting. exomide: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Very short sleeveless eyelet embroidery: Dress fabric characterized by eye- tunic worn open down right side by lower classes. lets of other machine-embroidered figures. express stripes: Strong, warp faced, cotton fabric with ezo nisbiki: Japan. A brocade on a satin ground with the equal width stripes of white and dark blue. design threads floated across the back of the fabric. external high shoes: China. Ming dynasty. Shoes with ezor: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Loincloth worn by exterior wooden soles. Jewish men.

F

fa guan: China. Han dynasty (206 B.C.E.–7 C.E.). faille crepe: Crepe with pebbled surface. Judge’s headdress. faille taffeta: Taffeta with obvious crosswise ribs. fa‘amalu: Samoa. Umbrella. faillette: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1898, a soft, fa‘amau: Samoa. Button. rib weave, wool fabric with gloss. fa‘ataelama: Samoa. Dark brown. failtean: Ireland. Headband. face: Side of fabric with better appearance. faina: Italy. Stone marten. faces: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). fāinne: Ireland. Finger ring. United Kingdom. Flat lock of hair that outlined the fàinne-pòsaidh: Ireland. Wedding ring. face of dandies. Fair Isle sweater: United Kingdom. Bright, colorful fachalina: Ecuador and Guatemala. Woman’s head- sweater. cloth and shoulder wrap. faitheam: Ireland. Gaelic word for hem or the border of fachalina de cabeza: Ecuador. A headcloth. a garment. fachallina: Ecuador. A shawl. faixa: Portugal. Belt; ribbon. silk: Lightweight, tightly woven fabric, often faja: 1. Argentina. Worn by gauchos, woolen sash worn imitation silk. wrapped several times around the waist. 2. Ecuador facings: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). and Guatemala. Cloth belt. In 12th century, edging of fur on elegant garments faja rizada: Spain. Shirring. especially when garments were lined with less ex- faja-calzón: Spain. Panty-girdle. pensive fur. 2. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). fàjia: China. Hairpin. Long band, often decorated, that trimmed gown à la fajin: Spain. Sash. francaise. It was narrow on the bodice and wider on fakhtai: India. Dove gray. the skirt. 3. (20th century). Portion of garment that falánróng: China. Flannel. reverses to the inside to bind garment openings, such falbala: 1. Restoration (1660–1700 as armseyes, necklines. C.E.). On woman’s three- facitergium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Handker- quarter or elbow-length sleeve, chief for wiping the face. the ruffle of lace. 2. See Duvil- facóli: 1. Greece. Every day. 2. Greece. White cotton band lier wig. worn tied around the head by newly married women. Falbel: Germany. Furbelow. faconné: France. To be figured. : 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 Fadam: Germany. Thread. C.E.). Spain. Train of a skirt. 2. Faden: Germany. Thread. Spain. Skirt. faglia: Italy. Faille. falda combinación: Spain. Half-slip. fail: Ireland. Gaelic word for ring or earring. See also falda con peto: Spain. Sun suit. falbala foil. falda con tabla añadida: Spain. Gored skirt. faileach-an: Ireland. Gaelic word for earring. falda envuelta: Spain. Wraparound skirt. faille: 1. France. Glossy, silk, rib weave fabric with light falda escocesa: Spain. Kilt. cross . 2. Nun’s hood, veil, or scarf that covers falda o tesa: Italy. Brim of a hat. head and shoulders. falda-pantalón: Spain. Culottes.

103 104 faldellin faldellin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Peru. In the 1880s, a toned part of sleeve to hang freely. Later these nar- calf-length skirt. rowed to decorative panels that hung from elbow. faldetta: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s col- These panels were often of contrasting fabric. ored taffeta, waist-length mantle with deep lace : See bust forms. flounce on hem. It had wide sleeves. 2. Malta. Wom- falt-dhealg: Ireland. Gaelic word for hairpin. an’s black silk hood and cap combination. The hood fält-teken: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– is supported with whalebone, cardboard, or wire to 1660 C.E.). Sweden. Military scarves. form peak. It is black except in Zabbar and Zeitun faluchos: Spain. Cocked hat. where it is blue. falwe: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Yellow. faldia: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Linen un- famalniya: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s leg- derskirt that was supported by horizontal bands that gings. were padded with cotton wool or linen. familla: Oman. Sash. falding: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coarse wool fan hoop: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Pyramid- fabric similar to frieze. shaped petticoat that was flat in front and back, faldita: Spain. Basque. forming fan-shaped base for the gown. faldrilla: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Underskirt. fan parasol: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Faliero: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, woman’s C.E.) to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. cloak trimmed with galloon and twisted fringe. Woman’s small parasol with hinge in stick that al- Falkland Island wool: Rough cheviot wool produced in lowed the fabric end to be tilted up and used as a fan. Falkland Islands. fan pleats: Pleats radiating from central point. fall: 1. Ornamental cascade of lace or other fabric. 2. : Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic (1350– Wiglet. 3. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Worn with 1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Generic term for cloth. gable headdress, a black silk or velvet bag to conceal fanbù: China. Canvas. the hair. Similar to the cale. 4. Early Georgian (1700– fanchon: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). From the 1830s, 1750 C.E.). Buttoned flap on front of man’s breeches small head kerchief worn by women. Term later re- or trousers. 5. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 ferred to lace trim around the ears on day caps. See C.E.). Loose back piece of woman’s hood. also half handkerchief. falla contrama crespón: Spain. Tissue faille. fanchon cap: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s lace fallaing: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). or tulle cap with ear lappets. Ireland. Coarse mantle. fancies: 1. Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 fal-lal: See falbala. C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United King- fallal: Gaudy ornament. dom. Popular from 1650s to 1670s, ribbon trim worn falling band: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Wide, flat on men’s breeches. Amount of trim per pair was usu- collar usually of sheer white fabric, with or without ally 72 yards, but could be in excess of 250 yards. 2. lace edging. 2. Charles I (1625–1660 C.E.) to present. Any fabric with patterned weave. Collar with two tabs that hang on breast. Still worn fandaráca: Greece. Embroidery design worn by older by some Protestant ministers. women. falling ruff: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– fandewai: Sierra Leone. White cotton cloth. 1660 C.E.). Full, unsupported neck ruff. Fane: Germany. Cloth. falluing: Ireland. Gaelic term for a mantle or robe. fanfreluche bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United falnis: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew cloak or Kingdom. Introduced in 1888, woman’s day bodice mantle. that gathered at neck and shoulders and sloped to a falpalà: Italy. Furbelow. point at top of the corset. false front: 1. False bangs. 2. Dickey. fangchóu: China. Soft, plain weave, silk fabric. false gown: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United fanling: China. Turndown collar. Kingdom. Fitted bodice with gathered skirt. It had fantail hat: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Tricorne hat a ribbon sash that tied in back. Referred to as false with fan-shaped back brim that was cocked to look gown since it was not open over fancy petticoat, but like fan. Fashionable for riding with both genders. was all in one piece. fantail wig: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Wig with false hips: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late ponytail shaped into several curls. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. From : Guatemala. Costume jewelry. 1740s to 1760s, women wore side hoops that pre- fàqia: China. Hairpin. cursed panniers. faraguja: Egypt. Over-robe worn by men in learned false sleeves: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Late 14th- professions. century fashion, wearers began by allowing unbut- farajiyyat: India. Robe similar to durra. fei 105 farala: Spain. Flounce. earflaps. farandine: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration faufautu: Samoa. Headcloth worn as protection from (1660–1700 C.E.). Silk and hair or wool blend fabric. the weather. farba: 1. Poland. Dye. 2. Bosnia. Dye. fausse montre: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. farda: Portugal. Uniform. Fashion for wearing second watch, a fake. fardegalijn: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Faust slipper: Man’s house shoe similar to the Romeo. Farthingale. It is high cut and has a V-shaped cut on each side. fargal: India. Raincoat. Fausthandschuh: Germany. Mitten. fargī: India. Short coat worn over the jama. Faustling: See Fausthandschuh. farmer’s satin: Durable cotton or cotton and rayon fautre: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Thigh blend fabric in satin weave used primarily for lining. armor. farmer’s silk: See Venetian cloth. favoris: See dundrearys. farous: Iraq. Loincloth. favorite: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United States farrajiyah: Morocco. Full coat with very wide, long of America. Lock of hair worn on temples by women. sleeves. favors: See galants. farrukhshāhi: India. Type of turban. favourite: See favorite. farthingale: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- fawn: Yellowish dark tan. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Linen underskirt with wire faxiolion: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Handkerchief. supports which, when shaped, produced a variety of fayi: China. Clothes worn by Buddhist or Taoist priests dome, bell, and oblong shapes. See also verdugado. at religious ceremonies. farthingale breeches: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to fazolo: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Italy. Handker- Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). From 17th to 18th chief. centuries, men’s breeches were padded out like far- fazzelkappe: See spitzkappe. thingale under the theory that they would protect fazzoletto: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Silk or wearer from poniard thrusts. linen kerchief commonly worn tucked into neckline farthingale sleeves: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Large of dress. sleeves, head of which were held out with wire, fearnothing: See dreadnought. reeds, or whalebone. fearnothing jacket: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) fartuch: Poland. Apron. to Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Man’s jacket made fartuk: Russia. Apron. See also perednik. of dreadnought worn by seafaring men, sportsmen, fartuszek: Poland. Pinafore. laborers, and apprentices. farwah: United Arab Emirates. Thick sheep wool overcoat. fearnought: See dreadnought. Fasanerfeder: Germany. Pheasant’s feather. feather cloth: Fabric with fluff on surface for softness. fascia: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Bands of varying featherbrush skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). widths worn tied around head, waist, arm, etc. United Kingdom. In 1898, a woman’s day skirt of fasciatrella: Italy. Colored cloth worn over tovaglia. light material made with overlapping flounces below : (20th century). Square or triangular head knee. covering for women. Made of silk, lace, net, or other : Decorative stitch made of blanket stitches delicate fabrics. in zigzag line. fasgadan: Ireland. Gaelic word for umbrella. feather-top wig: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United fashion waist: (19th century). Tailoring term for length Kingdom. Worn by parsons and sportsmen, a man’s on man’s coat from base of the collar to the waist seam. wig with feather toupee, commonly made from fat quarter: One quarter of a square yard of fabric, cut drake or mallard feathers. 18 x 22 inches. feax-clap: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). fatas: Russia. Beautiful veil of diaphanous silk or cotton. United Kingdom. Cloth or band for hair. Often embroidered in gold or silver and edged with feax-net: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). gold fringe. United Kingdom. Hairnet. Fatima robe: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 feax-preon: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United States of America. Short overgown with C.E.). United Kingdom. Hairpin. elbow-length sleeves that were slit up front and held Feder: Germany. Feather. together with decorative buttons. Fashionably worn : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Felt or man’s over muslin gown in 1800. hat with medium height crown, usually creased in fatiota: Portugal. Clothes. middle. fato: Portugal. Suit of clothes. Feh: Germany. Squirrel belly fur. fatumar saki: Nigeria. Handspun cotton cap with fei: China. Red. 106 fei yu fei yu: China. Under the Zhengde emperor (r. 1505– ferret: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration 1521 C.E.), the second rank of embroidery on gowns; (1660–1700 C.E.). Narrow silk or cotton ribbon. winged dragon with forked fishtail. ferret-silke: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coarse silk. feihóng: China. Bright red. ferris waist: (20th century). Brand name for fitted waist feileadh-beag: Scotland. Little kilt worn as early as worn mainly by young girls. It had button tabs to 1639. Short kilt with knife pleats. hold the supporters. feilt: Ireland. Felt. ferroniere: Romantic (1815–1840 feisè: China. Light pink. C.E.). France. Fine chain, rib- fel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United bon, or thin leather thong worn Kingdom. Full-length skin or leather garment worn around forehead with small by monks. jewel in center of forehead. feldr: Norway. Old word for cloak. ferrule: End cap on umbrella, Felix: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, collared, cane, etc. sleeved sacque. It had moss appliqué and guipure on fers: Elizabethan (1550–1625 lower edge. C.E.). Metal buttons worn as félkabát: See rokk. decoration on dress of woman felon: Russia. Robe worn in religious ceremonies. of rank. ferroniere félpa: Greece. Cotton cloth with a velvety texture. fersing: See rokolya. felt: Non-woven fabric of pressed fibers. fertuch: Slovakia. Apron. felted knitting: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Process fessagida: Hausa. Cotton cloth with a broad band of in which knitted garment, usually made too large, is silk. soaked, rubbed, and pounded to create felt. feston: France. . feltr: France. Breton for felt. festones: Ecuador. Horizontal pleats. feltro: Italy. Felt. festoons: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Curved gar- feluca: Italy. Cocked hat. lands of fabric or flowers worn on women’s garments. femina: Feathers from female ostrich. festoul: Morocco. Long, fine silk sash used to tie up feminalia: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Men’s knee-length Jewish woman’s hair. drawers worn by Roman troops in Northern climes. festracht: Austria. General term referring to festival femoralia: See feminalia. dress. fenetres d’enfer: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Arms- fetel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). eyes of women’s surcoat. United Kingdom. Belt or girdle; particularly the feng huang: China. Phoenix symbol. sword belt. fengjìng: China. . fetels: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). féngmào: China. Cowl-like winter hat. United Kingdom. Belt or bag; possibly a purse that fenhóng: China. Pink. was suspended from girdle. fents: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Openings in Fettschwanzschaf: Germany. Karakul. a garment. fettuccia: See nastro. feòil-dhaith te: Ireland. Flesh colored. Feuerwiesel: Germany. Kolinsky fur. feòil-dhath: Ireland. The color carnation. feur: France. Breton for fur. ferace: Turkey. Long, dark coat with close-fitting, round feusag-bheòil: Ireland. Moustache. neck and wide, elbow-length sleeves. feutre: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, felt gray. 2. ferenn: Ireland. Gaelic word for sword belt. France. Felt. feridge’: Turkey. Woman’s loose, ankle-length cloak fez: Turkey. Brimless, felt cap worn with tassel. made of silk or wool. ffedog: Wales. Apron. ferka: Egypt. Woman’s large, rectangular wrap with ffwr: Wales. Fur. yellow, white, and black braid. fīal: See caille. fermaglio: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Brooch fiapo: Portugal. Fine thread. or hat pin often worn on shoulder, headdress, sleeve, fiber lace: Lace made from aloe, banana, or pineapple or bodice. Many had a figure in relief. fibers. fermail: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Buckle or brooch. fiber silk: Artificial silk. ferozai: India. Turquoise blue. Fiberglas: Trade name for products made of glass fi- ferradura: See sapata. bers. ferraiuolo: Italy. Mantle. fibre chamoise: (1900–1910 C.E.). Stiff, paper-like fabric ferreruelo: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Long or used to line and reinforce the fashionable balloon short capa with high collar. See also bohemio. sleeves. Filztuch 107 fibula: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Pin or brooch. fig leaf: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 ficelle: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, very thick lace. C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s small ornamental, ficheall: Ireland. Gaelic word for buckle. bibless apron of black silk. fichu: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Shoulder scarf Figaro jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 1890s. Worn of lightweight, sometimes transparent fabric, worn with waistcoat, a variation of , it was a with different styles of gowns by women. snug bolero-type jacket with epaulets. fichu Antoinette: Crinoline figgery: Ornaments. (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- figgragulÞ: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic dom. Introduced in 1857, wom- (1350–1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Finger ring. an’s summer morning fine muslin figurero: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 fichu that was trimmed in black C.E.). Woolen fabric. lace and narrow velvet ribbon. It figuretto: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 fastened in back with small bow C.E.). Expensive flowered fabric, perhaps woven and covered the shoulders like a with metallic threads. shawl and crossed at center front figury: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance waist. (1450–1550 C.E.). Figured satin and velvet fabric. fichu Corday: Romantic (1815– fijne: Holland. Broadcloth. 1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. fijne punt: Holland. Needlepoint. Introduced in 1837, grenadine fil: France. Thread. gauze fichu that crossed bosom, fil de Chevre: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, new fichu Antoinette tying in back. It had a wide hem fabric. that a ribbon ran through. fil de retour: A line of thread in a needle lace. fichu la Valiere: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- fil de vierge: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1891, duced in 1868, fichu worn with front edges pinned tulle veil studded with pearls or blue stones. together, not crossing as usual. fil tiré: France. Drawn work that is filled in with needle- fichu menteur: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. work. Woman’s fichu that was worn draped to exaggerate fila ab’eti: Nigeria. Earflaps on a Yoruba man’s labarikada. figure, particularly the bust. filati: Greece. Thread. fichu raphael: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- filbert: Pale brown with grayish tint. duced in 1867, white tulle or lace fichu that was filé: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). square over shoulder. It was worn with a high- France. Smooth metallic thread that was wound on necked bodice. silk or linen core. fichu Ristori: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, pelerine- filead: Ireland. Gaelic word for fillet. shaped fichu worn with ends crossed in front and tied filemot: See phillamot. with bows. Named for French actress Mme Ristori. filet: 1. Net lace with square mesh. 2. Strip or ribbon. fichu-canezou: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. filet brodé: Embroidered net. Woman’s deep collar that fell from neck of a bodice filet lace: Lace with square knotted mesh ground. but did not cover the arms. It was sometimes made filete: Ecuador. Scallop work. with small ruff. filetto: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Edge of fichu-pelerine: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. hem, occasionally trimmed in fur. Worn after 1825, large white fichu, often having fili tirati: Italy. Drawn-thread work. double cape and turndown collar. The front had filibeg: Scotland. Modern knee-length kilt. knee-length fichu ends that were worn under belt. filigree: Delicate ornamental openwork. fichu-robings: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- filleadh beag: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to pres- dom. In 1820s, flat trim sewn to bodice to imitate ent. Small kilt. fichu. fillet: Narrow band or ribbon worn around head. ficka: Sweden. Pocket. filo: Italy. Thread. field cap: Lightweight soft cloth cap of any of a number filozella: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 of shapes, mainly worn for military undress use. C.E.). Double camlet. field service cap: See field cap. filozetta: See filozella. fieltro: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Three- filt: Denmark and Sweden. Felt. quarter length double riding cape with button-up fīlum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Thread. collar and hood. 2. Spain. Felt. Filz: Germany. Felt. fifele: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Filzglocke: Germany. Felt cloche. United Kingdom. Buckle or brooch. Filztuch: Germany. Felt cloth. 108 fimbria

fimbria: Italy. Skirt. thread which form five small holes where they meet finestrella: Renaissance (1450– at intersections. 1550 C.E.). Italy. The opening in fivela: Portugal. Buckle. hanging sleeve through which the flabells: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Italy. Great cir- arm passes. cular fan used on state occasions. finger gauntlet: Late Gothic Flachs: Germany. Flax. (1350–1450 C.E.). A gauntlet with Flahs: Germany. Flax. the fingers protected by separate flame: Brilliant scarlet. lames, not in the more commonly flame embroidery: See Florentine embroidery. glove shape. flamme de punch: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1864, fingerstall: Glove finger. new color resembling the light from a punch bowl. fingroms: Early Georgian (1700– flammeum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Dark flame- 1750 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750– colored marriage veil worn by brides. It covered finestrella 1790 C.E.). Coarse serge made at wearer completely. Bridegroom removed veil after Stirling. they had arrived at their home. Some matrons con- finic: Ireland. Gaelic word for jet. tinued to wear it after their wedding. finíca: Greece. Silver, egg-sized flandan: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Woman’s cap ornaments worn by a bride on with lace-edged lappets. her hair. Flanders serge: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Resto- finger gauntlet finnesko: Lapland. Treated rein- ration (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worsted Dover Publications deer skin boots with fur on out- fabric. side. flange heel: Shoe heel that flares out at bottom. fiocco: Italy. Bow. flange shoulder: Shoulder with pleat that reaches over fionnadh: Ireland. Fur. sleeve. fir: Romania. Thread. flann: Ireland. Gaelic word for blood red. firmale: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Brooch. flannach: Ireland. Gaelic word for purple. firmament: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 flann-dhearg: Ireland. Gaelic word for purple. C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Filet set with flannel: Soft, lightweight, twill or plain weave, cotton gems. fabric with slight nap on one or both sides. firmla: Morocco. Vest that reaches below hips. flannelette: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 20th century. firozi: India. Turquoise color. United States of America. Introduced in 1876, light- fish net: Net with very large mesh. weight, plain weave, cotton fabric with one side fisher: Species of American marten with rich, dark twilled and other plush. See also kimono flannel. brown underhair and long, black overhairs. flanyela: Romania. Flannel. fishtail: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). flashdance top: Based on designs for movie Flashdance. The nickname given to the nar- Knit shirt with short sleeves and large neckline. row bustle and train popular in flat crepe: Fine, tightly woven, lustrous crepe. the later years of the period. flax: Plant from which linen is made. fishwife skirt: Full peasant skirt flaxen: Straw color. of striped fabric. Flaxon: Trade name for crisp finish on cotton. fîstîc: See catrinta. flea: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Puce color. fita: Portugal. Ribbon. flea-fur: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan fitchet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 (1550–1625 C.E.). Vernacular name for marten or C.E.) to Renaissance (1450–1550 sable stole. C.E.). France. Vertical placket in fleax: United Kingdom. Old English word for flax. gown skirt or cape. Fleckenskunk: Germany. Fur of the civet cat. fitelho: Portugal. Narrow ribbon. fleco: Spain. Fringe. fitili: Greece. A thick yellow cot- fleco bullion: Spain. Bullion fringe. fishtail ton yarn. fleco morisco: Spain. Macramé. Dover Publications Fitzherbert hat: Late Georgian fleece: Any heavy, napped, or pile fabric with fleece- (1750–1790 C.E.). Introduced in like surface. 1786, modified balloon hat for women with oval brim Flehtan: Germany. Braid. and raised crown. Flemysshe cloth: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). five hole lace: One of the earliest and most widespread Linen. bobbin lace grounds, it is worked with four pairs of flesh: Tint of red orange. flower pot hat 109 fleshings: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). satin: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Flesh-colored tights. C.E.). Used in 1802 and after, thin, soft satin. fleur de lis: Conventionalized iris flower motif that is florentine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1. Introduced in 1867, royal emblem of France. yellow color with bronze tint. 2. Heavy silk fabric. fleur de lys: See fleur de lis. Florentine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, wom- fleur de peche: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1860, new an’s taffeta shawl. Bertha trimmed with box-pleated trim color. ruffle, as was lower edge of shawl. Shawl was fleur de soufre: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, pale trimmed with passementerie and Tom Thumb fringe. shade of sulfur yellow. Florentine embroidery: Canvas embroidery where fleur de thé: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1880, cotton stitches are worked in zigzag pattern. fabric as fine as lawn. Florentine hat: Italy. Large straw hat. fleur volant: France. Ornamental loop in point lace pattern. Florentine leather: Italy. Fine leather tooled in gold and fleuron: Ornament in shape of a flower. colors from Florence. flex: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to Re- Florentine neckline: Very wide boat neckline. naissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Middle Florentinerhut: Germany. Boater. English word for flax. florinelle: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Directoire flexible net: Closely woven, leno weave, millinery fab- and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. ric of cotton. Made in white or cream. Made in Norwich, glazed brocade that was striped flexine: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, a red- and flowered. dish slate color. Florodora Girl costume: Based on chorus costumes flieder: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Restoration from Florodora, the ensemble included full, (1660–1700 C.E.). Germany. Jewish woman’s pointed skirt, lace-trimmed, bishop sleeved bodice that gath- veil. ered at waist and . fliegende Nachtrok: See volanten. floss silk: A very shiny untwisted raw silk. flight boot: (1940–1949 C.E.). United States of America. flossing: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Stitching used to Chukka boot popularized by aircraft carrier atten- encase corset bones in place. dants in World War II. Natural, flesh-side out leather flotation jacket: Self-inflating life preserver. upper with non-skid sole. It became official equip- flots: Overlapping rows of ribbon or lace arranged as ment on all carriers. loops. flimsies: Slang for women’s undergarments. flounce: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to 20th cen- flip: See krave. tury. Band of fabric or lace that is fluted and attached flipe: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan to garment by its upper edge only. (1550–1625 C.E.). Fold or flap on cap brim. flounce à disposition: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Flitter: Germany. Sequins. France. Worn after 1851, flounce woven with same flitter braid: Very light braid covered in sequins. border pattern as the dress. float: Portion of yarn in fabric that floats above two or flourish: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan more other threads. (1550–1625 C.E.). To ornament profusely. flocket: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan flower bottle: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Worn in 1865, (1550–1625 C.E.). Woman’s long, loose garment. small glass bottle for flowers that was worn by some floconné: France. Small, white flakes on colored ground. men in buttonhole in left lapel of morning coat. Piece floddermuts: Holland. Woman’s loose cotton cap. of wide ribbon was sewn under lapel to hold bottle flokati: Greece. Slipper sock. in position. floki: See pofi. flower hole: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 20th century. flor: Sweden. 1. Veil. 2. Fine cloth. United Kingdom. From 1840s on, small buttonhole flóra: Greece. White embroidery threads. appeared in left lapel of coat for flower stem or Flora: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, shawl with flower bottle. box-pleated skirt. It trimmed with bands of glacé silk flower pot hat: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United and gimp. Large ornamental bow between shoulder Kingdom. Worn by both men blades. and women, a felt hat shaped floramedas: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration like an inverted flower pot and (1660–1700 C.E.). Flowered or figured fabric. surrounded with a short curled florence: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 brim. 2. (1960–1969 C.E.). Sim- C.E.). Lightweight silk taffeta. 2. Crinoline (1840– ilar to the earlier version, a 1865 C.E.). In 1840s, corded barege or grenadine used woman’s hat of straw or felt, for linings. 3. France. Sarsenet. usually without a brim. flower pot hat 110 flow-flow flow-flow: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. folly : Late Gothic (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- Graduated fall of colored ribbon loops that trimmed dom. Series of small bells hung from girdle, shoulder bodice front of women’s gowns. belt, or neckband. floxine: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, a red foloara: Madagascar. Woman’s cotton head covering. with tint of lilac. fond: France. Flat crown. flues: Feather fibers on each side of feather stem. fond à la marriage: A variety of point de Paris. flügelmütze: Prussia. Mirliton. fond clair: France. Simple twist net ground of the bucks flurt-silke: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Figured point type. silk. fond de casserole: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In flushing hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 1891, a coppery red. C.E.). In 1809, woman’s hat similar to gipsy hat with fond double: Point de Paris made with four pairs of thread. under crown to fit wearer snugly. fond simple: See fond clair. flushings: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Heavy wool fab- fong chau: (1920–1930 C.E.). United States of America. ric similar to duffels. Chinese Hawaiian term for a medium-quality silk. fluting: Narrow pleats. fontanges: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. Wom- fluweel: Holland. Velvet. an’s upswept hairstyle that was held in place by rib- fly plaid: Scotland. A tartan scarf attached to the left bon and surmounted by various caps and accessories. shoulder and falling to the bottom of the kilt. fools hood: Fisherman’s stocking cap. flycap: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian foot-mantle: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Petticoat worn (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s cap by women on horseback to keep their gowns clean. with lappets on sides. footing: Fine cotton net one-half inch to six inches wide fly-fringe: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle used for ruffling. (1865–1890 C.E.). Fringe of cord and silk tufts. forage cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 flying Josie: See joseph. C.E.) to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- Flying Saucer: (1950–1960 C.E.). United States of Amer- dom. Man’s cap with round flat crown with its edge ica. Man’s hairstyle with horizontal part across the stiffened with cane, front visor, tassel in the center head from ear to ear. of crown, and sometimes leather chin strap. In 1829, fly’s wing: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- adapted by the military. dom. Gray. for-bhrat: Ireland. Gaelic word for cloak or outer gar- fly-suit: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- ment. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Loose negligee gown. forcella: Italy. Hairpin. fob pocket: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– fore-and-aft cap: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Cap with 1660 C.E.) to present. Small pocket in breeches. visor-type brim in front and back. Popularized by fob ribbon: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Crino- literary character, Sherlock Holmes. line (1840–1865 C.E.). Short ribbon worn by men forel: United Kingdom. Border or selvage. reaching from watch to fob pocket. It often held seals forepart: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Decorative fab- and watch key. ric insert in front of woman’s bodice. fo-bhuidhe: Ireland. Gaelic word for tawny or yellow- foresleeve: Part of sleeve covering forearm. ish color. forest cloth: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Geor- foca: Italy and Spain. Seal fur. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Good quality woolen fabric focale: Roman (644 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Knotted scarves from Forest of Dean. worn by warriors on campaign. forest green: Dark green. fóci: Greece. Leather belt. forest white: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restora- fodera: Italy. Lining. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). White homespun fabric made fodra: Romania. Fan-shaped cuff on woman’s in Peniston. Red or blue colored version was called smock. Peniston. fogle: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) to forester’s green: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Vernacular term for silk States of America. Bright green color popular in 1817. handkerchief. See also American green. foil: Ireland. Gaelic word for bracelet. See also fail. forestry cloth: United States of America. Kind of olive foileid: Ireland. Gaelic word for . drab flannel originally made for U.S. Forestry Service. fol: Trinidad. Heart-shaped panel in a garment. forfar: Scotland. Coarse, heavy linen fabric once made fola: Ireland. Gaelic word for garment. in Forfarshire. follette: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. An- forked beard: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Beard with other name for a fichu. two points. freiseau 111 förkläde: Sweden. Apron. fourreau skirt: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced forklœde: Denmark. Apron. in 1864, gored morning skirt that was fitted at waist fôrma: Portugal. Hat block; shoe last. and full over crinoline. Fornarina: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, fitted fourreau tunic: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced pardessus trimmed with gimp and thin fringe. in 1864, upper skirt (tunic) that was cut in one with forro: Spain. Lining. bodice. It measured six yards at hem. The double forro de sombrero: Spain. Hat lining. skirt was worn for evening. fortop: See toupee. fourrure: France. Fur. Fortuny print: Italy. Art fabric made for Fortuny in fox: Fur of the Vulpes vulpes, a fur with long, soft fur in Venice using secret printing process giving cotton various shades. cloth the look of antique brocade. foynes: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Skin of a polecat. Fortuny : (1910–1920 C.E.). France. Fortuny frac: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Crinoline (1840– design for clinging gown in Grecian line made of du- 1865 C.E.). France. From 1767, man’s informal gar- rable silk with neckline that gathered on a silk cord. ment with turndown collar that was wider than Fabric was usually plaited, and sometimes trimmed coat. It evolved into formal, basqued jacket that was with stencils, beads, or gold and silver tracery. cutaway in front. fo-ruadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for reddish brown. fragrance on the surface of the soles: China. Ming dy- fot: See klœði. nasty. Flat-soled shoes worn by older women. fota: 1. Ethiopia. Woman’s shawl. 2. Romania. Oblong, fragrant leaves: See external high shoes. black woolen skirt. fraise: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan fotaforkle: Norway. Apron with a wide border above (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Small ruffle on edge of stand- the hem. ing collar. 2. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Piece of em- fotgewaed: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). broidered muslin trimmed in ruching that was worn United Kingdom. Footwear of monks. folded across woman’s bosom and pinned in place. Ap- fouine: France. Stone marten. peared with carriage dress as replacement for cravat. foulard: 1. Soft, washable satiny silk with small figures fraise à la confusion: See falling ruff. on dark or light ground. 2. Soft, fine, twill weave cot- fraise à la Gabrielle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In ton fabric. 3. Handkerchief of silk foulard. 4. Holland. 1857, woman’s ruff of quilled muslin edged with nar- Bandana. row Valenciennes. foulard de laine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, fraka: Poland. Dress coattails. fabric resembling alpaca. frakke: Denmark. Coat. foulard poile de chevre: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. fralda: See aba. Introduced in 1870, fabric of goat’s hair similar to framboise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, raspberry foulard. color. foulé: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Introduced in Francis the First sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1882, soft and velvety fabric similar to casimir. 1861, short puffed sleeve for evening. foulinenn: See feur. Franco-Cuban heel: Narrow Cuban heel. foundation net: Coarse, sized net used in hat under- franela: Spain. Flannel. structure. franela de Canton: Spain. Canton flannel. foundi: Greece. A chemise embroidered in silk thread. franela ligera: Spain. Baby flannel. foundling bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United frangipani gloves: Perfumed gloves. Kingdom. Woman’s hat with small stiff brim, soft frangipani perfume: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). plush crown, and ties for bow under chin. France. Perfume named for the marquis who discov- fouraschka: Russia. Field cap. ered that perfume could be held in liquid form by fourchette: Small piece of leather set between fingers using alcohol. in glove. franja: Portugal. Fringe. fouriaux: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). franjas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Fringes. France. In first half of 12th century, these long silk fraternity pin: Pin containing Greek letters representing sheaths enclosed two long braids of hair commonly fraternity. It often had tiny pearls around the rim. A worn by ladies of rank. guard chain with symbols for chapter name is often four-in-hand: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Necktie tied in attached. Woman’s version is sorority pin. slipknot. frazada: Ecuador. Blanket. fourisseur d’arme: France. Armorer. fregio: Italy. Frieze. fourreau dress: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced freiseau: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). in 1864, princess style dress that buttoned down front. France. Twelfth-century term for decorative hair comb. 112 French back serge

French back serge: Fine worsted serge made with extra first eliminated gathers at the warp on back. waist. French back twill: Worsted suiting fabric. French heel: Curved, high heel. French bearer: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Bearer band French hood: Renaissance (1450– on men’s breeches that were made with falls. 1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan French boa: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Worn after (1550–1625 C.E.). Popular from 1829, woman’s long round tippet of swansdown, fur, 1521 to 1590, woman’s head- or feathers. Reappeared in 1890s. dress with small stiff bonnet French heel French bottoms: Romantic (1815– that was worn far back on head. Front curved for- 1840 C.E.). Men’s trouser legs that ward to cover the ears and was trimmed in ruching. were cut wider at hem than above. Falling back from the cap was curtain of pleated French cambric: Finest grade of fabric. Held in place with chin strap. cambric. French hose: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United French chalk: Soft, absorbent Kingdom. Worn from 1550 to 1610, men’s paned chalk used as cleaning agent to trunk hose worn with canions. absorb grease and perspiration. French jet: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Jet pieces ap- French chip: Soft, durable but plied to fabric. expensive chip straw. French kid: Fine quality kid leather. French cloak: Renaissance (1450– French knot: Ornamental embroidery knot. French bottoms 1550 C.E.) to Restoration (1660– French merino: Fine grade merino wool. 1700 C.E.). Worn draped informally over the left French net: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 shoulder, a man’s long, circular or semi-circular cape C.E.). Net introduced in 1807 for evening gowns. with square flat collar or shoulder cape. French opening vest: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s French crepe: Very lightweight, plain weave, silk or vest cut low in front to show the shirt. rayon crepe. French : High quality percale. French cuff: 1. Man’s coat cuff with side slit that French pocket: Charles I and the Commonwealth buttoned. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Beginning (1625–1660 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). in 1850s, wide shirt cuff that Horizontal slit pocket with flap cover. linked at wrist and buttoned French polonaise: See Irish polonaise. higher up. French ruff: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Worn from French dart: Dart formed by join- 1580 to around 1610, man’s very large cartwheel ing vertical darts from shoulder ruff. and waistline. French serge: Finely twilled serge. French fall: Charles I and the French sleeves: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Worn Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). from 1550 to 1600, men’s detachable pinked or paned Style of shoe. sleeves. French foot: Hose with one seam French vest: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle in middle of sole. (1865–1890 C.E.). Worn in 1860s, man’s high-but- French frock: Late Georgian toned waistcoat with short lapels. See also American (1750–1790 C.E.) to Directoire and vest. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). French work: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Embroidery Worn from 1770s to around 1800, insertions in front of a woman’s bodice. man’s full dress coat trimmed frenello: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. String with gold embroidered buttons. of pearls or a ribbon twisted around hair and silk French gigot sleeves: Gay Nine- veiling strips and worn in hair as an ornament. Fre- ties (1890–1900 C.E.). United quently had jewel in center front. Kingdom. Woman’s sleeve with fret: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Gold wire trellised cuff that extended onto back of cap to hold hair. hand. Style was introduced by : See fret. Sarah Bernhardt. ’s cloth: Coarse textured, basket weave, drapery French gingham: Fine, soft ging- fabric. ham. friendship bracelet: (20th century). Bracelet consisting French gores: Directoire and First of links of metal, each piece given by a friend, and Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). United later assembled. French gigot sleeves Kingdom. Gores in day skirt that Fries: Germany. Frieze. fūan 113 fries: Holland. Frieze. -mouthed helm: Late Gothic frieze: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Thick wool (1350–1450 C.E.). A fabric worn by lower classes. 2. To raise the nap on a helmet. fabric. 3. To embroider. 4. Present. Thick, heavy fab- froissé: France. To be crumpled ric with a raised surface of uncut loops. or crushed. frilal: Border or ornamental ribbon. froncés: France. Close bouillon- frileuse: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Introduced nee; curliness. in 1847, woman’s quilted satin or velvet pelerine that frontiere: See Mary Stuart cap. was fitted at the back at the waist and had long, loose frontje: Holland. Shirt front. sleeves. frontlet: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 frill: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to 20th century. C.E.). Small chain or loop of Gathered piece of trim that sug- fabric worn across brow from gests a ripple. large headdress. 2. Renaissance frog-mouthed helm frilling: Crinoline (1840–1865 (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Band worn around forehead with a coif. United Kingdom. Gathered piece frontone de berretto: Italy. Flat crown of a hat. of stiff white muslin worn at neck frose paste: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- and wrists of a woman’s bodice. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Paste paper often associated Often worn by widows in 1870s with French hoods. and 1880s. frou-frou: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1870, friponne: See jupe. satin similar to washing cloth. frippery: Tawdry finery. frou-frou dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in frilling frisa: Portugal. Frieze. 1870, day dress worn with short muslin tunic, skirts frise: France. Frieze. of which were rounded in front. Worn with light frisé: France. Pile fabric of uncut loops. silk underskirt that was trimmed in many pinked frisé brocade: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in flounces. 1885, brocade with pile pattern. frou-frou gauze: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1870, thin frisette: 1. Fringe or bangs of hair worn on forehead. 2. solid color grenadine with surface coloring imitating Padding in underskirts. crepe. frislet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Small ruffle. frounce: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Elizabethan friso: Portugal. Band or fillet. (1550–1625 C.E.). Pleated or gathered flounce. frisure d’or: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Gold or sil- frouting: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration ver embroidery. (1660–1700 C.E.). To rub sweet perfumed oil into a frivolité: France. Tatting. garment. frizado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration frouze: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early Georgian (1660–1700 C.E.). Heavy worsted fabric similar to (1700–1750 C.E.). Wig worn to cover a bald head. baize. fruncidas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Gathered. frizé: See frisé. fruncido: Spain. Curliness. frizette: See frisette. frúta: Greece. Beads. frizz wig: Late Georgian (1750– frutilla: Ecuador. A belt woven with small diamond 1790 C.E.). Man’s wig that was figures. crimped all over. fterotó: Greece. Embroidery design on the old wedding frock coat: Romantic (1815–1840 chemise. C.E.). Man’s coat with long skirts fú: China. Clothes. of same length all around the fu ku: China. Men’s pleated ankle-length breeches with body. fullness looped up at knees. frog: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). fu tou: China. 1. Ming dynasty (1368–1644 C.E.). Lac- Ornamental cord fastening of Ori- quered black, a man’s official hat. Round, gauze cap ental influence consisting of loop with two stiff wings at back. 2. Tang dynasty. Silk and toggle. turban made of handkerchief with four corners cut frog pocket: Crinoline (1840–1865 into ribbons. C.E.). Pocket in the side seam of fuafuati: Samoa. Lock of hair. men’s breeches cut with rectan- fuaigheal: Ireland. Gaelic word for seam. gular flap and secured with a fūan: Ireland. 1. Old Gaelic word for coat. See also inar. frock coat button. 2. Outer garment worn by both sexes. 114 fuchina

fuchina: Mexico. Purple aniline dye. furoshiki: Japan. Kerchief made of plain or patterned fuchou: China. Poplin. cotton, muslin, or flannel. Fuchs: Germany. Fox fur. furoshiki-botchi: See furoshiki. fuchsia: Purplish red. furre: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to Fuchsie: Germany. Fuchsia. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Mid- fucus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Rouge. dle English word for fur. fudag: Ireland. Gaelic word for shoe strap. fürtuchsklemmer: Austria. Large brooch. füdzö: Hungary. Closing flap on bodice. fusa: Japan. Tassel. fue: Samoa. Fly whisk. fuseau: France. Bobbin. fufuo: Ghana. The color white. fuselli: Italy. Bobbins. fugi: Japan. Wisteria fiber coats. Fusex shirt: (1930–1940 C.E.). United Kingdom. A fugitive coat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 man’s shirt with a self-stiffening collar. C.E.). Introduced in 1807, pelisse that opened down fusi: Samoa. Belt. front. Descendent of flying Josie. fustă: Romania. Skirt. fugu: Ghana. Man’s loose smock worn with short trou- fústa: Greece. Petticoat or skirt. sers. fustaine: France. Fustian. fuigheag: Ireland. Gaelic word for thrum. fustan: 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Peru. In the fuiliche: Ireland. Gaelic word for blood red. 1780s, a petticoat ruffle. 2. Spain. Fustian; dimity. fuilidh: Ireland. Gaelic word for blood red. fustanéles: See . fuine: Italy. Wolf fur. fustanella: Greece. Short, pleated, white skirt worn by fuji: Japan. Plain spun silk fabric made in Fuji. men as part of national dress. fukás: Greece. Wool belt. fustão: Portugal. Fustian. fukube-dana: Japan. A facial mask. fustar: Romania. Man’s puckered shirt. fu-la: Vietnam. Scarf. fuste: Guatemala and Peru. Cotton underskirt. full bottomed wig: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Light fustein: Holland. Fustian. wig invented for Louis XIV by Sieur Binet, wigmaker. fustian: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) full slops: See slops. to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Cotton fuller’s chalk: See fuller’s earth. or cotton and flax fabric popular with the Normans. fuller’s earth: Clay used to remove grease and perspira- Cistercians were forbidden to wear anything but tion from hats. Usually a gray powder. linen or fustian. First such was made in United King- fulu: Samoa. Feather. dom in Norwich. Wool fustian was made as early as fumee: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, smoke brown. 1336. fumee de Londres: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, tint fustian anapes: Charles I and the Commonwealth of London smoke. (1625–1660 C.E.). Italy. Fustian from Naples. funda: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s belt. fusube: Japan. Tie-dyed and smoked leather. fúndes: Greece. Tassels worn attached to braids of hair. fusuma: Japan. Indian silk with designs in nonmetallic fúndi: Greece. Chemise. thread. fundilho: Portugal. Seat of trousers. futa: Egypt. Piece of fabric. fúndítses: Greece. Fringes on the seguni. fúta: Greece. Apron; festival apron. fundo de agulha: Portugal. Eye of a needle. futro: Poland. Fur coat. fungomi: Japan. Woman’s trousers. Futter: Germany. Lining. funnel collar: Collar fitted at Fütterung: Germany. Lining. neckline, flaring outward at top. fututam: Ghana. White cloth. funnel sleeve: See pagoda sleeve. fuubu: See batakari. fuo: China. Zhuong dynasty. fuya: 1. Celebes. Manila hemp. 2. Indonesia. Bark cloth. Axe-shaped embroidered orna- fúzhuang: China. Dress; clothing. ment hung from waist. Precursor fycheux: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). of bixi. Fur of polecat. furashka: Russia. Forage cap. furbelow: See flounce. furisode: Japan. A kimono with furisode long, bag-like sleeves. G

gaas: Holland. Gauze. Gabrielle sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United gåat adahke: Norway. Antler or brass plate that hangs Kingdom. Popular from 1815 to 1835, woman’s from a woman’s belt from which hang a small purse, sleeve cut full at armseye and tapering slightly to needle-case, etc. forearm where it ended in deep cuff with lace band. gabā: India. Vest. gacchakā-kī-turrī: India. Crested plume made of gold ga-ba-ðin: Vietnam. Gabardine. or silver ribbon worn on top of a turban. gaban: Spain. Overcoat. gach: India. Bobbinet cloth. gabán: Guatemala. Woolen overcoat. gadar: India. Long, wide coat. gabano: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Sleeved, gadget cane: Cane or walking stick which conceals an open mantle. object, like a sword or a flask. gabardina: Spain. Gabardine. gadget stick: See gadget cane. gabardine: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Eliza- gadlings: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United King- bethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Wide sleeved, long, loose dom. Low spikes over the fingertips. overcoat worn with or without girdle. It ceased to be gadlyngs: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Steel plates or fashionable after 1560s, but it remained popular in bosses on gauntlets. lower classes. 2. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced gadroon: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Inverted pleat in 1879, waterproof Egyptian cotton fabric. 3. Tightly or flute used as trim on caps and cuffs. Also used woven, twilled fabric with high sheen. popularly on dress skirts. gabardyna: Poland. Gabardine. gaforinha: Portugal. Curled hair of a Negro. gabbano: 1. See gabano. 2. See palandrano. gage de Inde: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Muslin de gaberdine: 1. Smock frock. 2. Late Gothic (1350–1450 soie; very thin silk tissue. C.E.). Jewish mantle. 3. Any cloak or mantle. 4. La- gaghra: India. A full skirt worn by women in western borer’s loose garment. India. gable headdress: Renaissance gahper: Norway. Woman’s headdress. (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. gahra gulabi: India. Dark pink. Stiffened, elaborate headdress gai pee jau sa: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States shaped like gable that often reached of America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a maroon- as low as the shoulders. It was espe- colored silk crepe used for underclothes. cially popular with matrons. gaib: United Arab Emirates. Pocket. gábmaga: Norway. Woman’s rein- gaine: 1. Sheath. 2. Girdle. deer hide boots. Gainsborough bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United gabnel: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Kingdom. Introduced in 1877, woman’s velvet fitted gable headdress Princess style dress. hat with high front brim and a wide crown. Often Gabrielle dress: Bustle (1865–1890 trimmed with roses. C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1865, day Gainsborough hat: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). dress with bodice and center skirt section cut in one. Wide-brimmed ladies’ hat decorated with ribbons Three large box-pleats in back of gored skirt or one and feathers. Commonly found in paintings by on each side and one in center back. Gainsborough.

115 116 gairda

gairda: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic Gallo-Greek bodice: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United (1350–1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Girdle. Kingdom. Popular in 1820s, bodice with narrow flat gairgre: Ireland. Gaelic word for pilgrim’s dress. trim reaching from shoulders to just above waist. gaitan: Russia. Peasant woman’s chest ornament. gallone: Italy. Galloon. gaiter: 1. Fabric or leather covering for ankle and lower galloon: Narrow tape or on a ribbon. calf that buckled or buttoned on side. It sometimes galloshoes: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan had a strap under the instep. 2. Ankle-high shoe (1550–1625 C.E.). Wooden soled overshoes. with elastic sides. Meant to imitate shoe worn with gallowses: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle gaiter. (1865–1890 C.E.). Cloth suspenders with hooks and gaiter bottoms: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United eyes. Kingdom. Popular cut of bottom of men’s trousers. galluses: See gallowses. gajajin: India. A bark-strip garment of the ascetic. galocha: 1. Portugal. Galosh. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 gajavadi: India. 1. A fabric decorated with an elephant C.E.). Spain. Wooden-soled shoe. pattern. 2. A closely woven cotton stuff. galoche: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Elizabethan gajipali: India. The silk from Ghazipur. (1550–1625 C.E.). Wooden platform with strap at- galabijeh: Egypt. Gown worn by fellahin. tached to it to fit over shoe. It was worn to keep feet galabiyeh bi wist: Egypt. Woman’s waisted dress. raised from ground. See also arctics. 2. France. Galosh. galante: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Deco- galon: 1. See galloon. 2. Holland. Galloon. rative patch worn in middle of the cheek. galon d’argent: France. Silver lace. galants: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 galon d’or: France. Gold lace. C.E.). France. Ties or loops of ribbon used as decora- galoscia: Holland. Galosh. tion on women’s garments. galosh: Overshoe. galão: Portugal. Gold lace; silver lace. galosses: See galloshoes. galashiels: Scotland. made in district of same galuchat: 1. Ornamented . 2. Kind of . name. galyac: See galyak. galatea: 1. Sturdy, satin or twill weave, cotton fabric galyak: Very flat, glossy fur from lamb, kid, or goat. used for children’s clothes. 2. Child’s sailor gãm: Vietnam. Brocade. crowned straw hat. gãm vóc: Vietnam. Brocade and satin. Galatea comb: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United gamanjunni: Norway. Turned-up toe on shoes or boots. Kingdom. Decorative hair comb with long teeth and gamashes: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration fancy handle. (1660–1700 C.E.). Worn from 1590s to 1700, men’s Galatea hat: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United long, loose, cloth leggings that buttoned. Worn Kingdom. Child’s hat of Chinese or Japanese plait on horseback or on foot as protection from mud straw made with sailor crown and turned up brim. spatters. galea: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Leather helmet. gambade: Long gaiter that was attached like a stirrup galerilla: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. One to the saddle. Worn to protect wearer from mud piece gown. spatters. : Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Italy. Wide- gambado: See gambade. brimmed red hat with 30 hanging bows. Worn by gambeson: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic cardinals. (1350–1450 C.E.). Defensive coat of leather, or quilted galerum: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). and padded fabric. Worn as protection under armor Fitted helmet of undressed skin. and later became civilian garment known as juppe, galerus: See galerum. gippon, pourpoint, or doublet. galilla: Small inside collar. gambeto: Spain. Short wool topcoat. gallang: Indonesia. Brass ankle-rings worn by Sa’dan- gamboised : India. Early Gothic (1100–1250 Toraja women of high status. C.E.). Quilted thigh defenses. gallants: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 gambroon: Twill weave fabric of linen, wool, or a blend C.E.). Small ribbon bows worn in the hair and on the used for linings. clothing as trim. gamcha: India. A cloth that may serve as both the tur- gallér-szür: Hungary. Large, gored, circular cape. ban and the loincloth. gallicae: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). gammadion: Ecclesiastical emblem used in church em- Low shoe with thick sole worn laced closed. broideries created from positioning of four gammas galligaskins: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Loose knee- in shape of cross. length trousers. See also gaskin. gamoshes: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United States. galliochios: Pattens. Men’s high boots. garrick greatcoat 117 gamp: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 garçon d’honneur: France. Page. C.E.). Popular name for the umbrella, named for Mrs. garde Français: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1864, Gamp in Dickens’s Martin Chuzzlewit. lady’s muslin collar trimmed with lace. gamsbart: Austria. Thick chamois plume worn on Ty- gardebras: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Piece of ar- rolese hats. mor that protected arm. gamurra: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Woman’s garde-collet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Ridge on garment, perhaps similar to . that protected the neck. gamuza: Spain. Suede; chamois. garde-corps: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late gàn: China. Dark purple. Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Loose, flowing garment ganache: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Robe with short with short sleeves or sleeveless that was worn by caped sleeves. both genders. gandhaki: India. Light yellow. gardecors: See garde-corps. gandoora: See . garde-de-rein: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Kidney gandoura: Algeria. African guard in suit of armor. sleeveless robe. garduña: Spain. Stone marten. gandurah: See gandoura. gare: Nigeria. Middle-class man’s very wide, white cot- gangasagara: India. A fine silk ton gown with one large chest pocket. from Bengal. garha: See . gangetic: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 gari: Borneo. Garment; clothes. C.E.). The best quality muslin Garibaldi blouse: Crinoline from India. (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s gandoura gangkai: China. Steel helmet. loose blouse worn in 1859 in gànqing: China. Dark purple. honor of Italian hero. gansbauch: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Germany. Lit- Garibaldi bodice: Crinoline erally “goose belly,” German term for peascod belly. (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- ganse: Cord. dom. Worn in 1860s, woman’s gansey: Knitted jacket or jersey. day bodice that fell loosely over gansy: See gansey. the waistband or had a number Garibaldi blouse gant: France. Glove. of tiny tucks from neck to waist. See also photospread gants de chevreau: France. Kid gloves. Worn with or without a jacket. (Women's Wear). gants de Swède: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, Garibaldi hat: Crinoline (1840– undressed kid gloves with embroidered backs. 1865 C.E.). Woman’s braided gants Régence: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1878, long, pillbox hat. dull kid gloves that laced. Garibaldi jacket: Crinoline (1840– gao: China. In ancient China, thin white silk. 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. gaogenxié: China. High-heeled shoes. Woman’s shirt of red cash- gaopí: China. Lambskin. mere, decorated with black gaosù: China. White mourning clothes. cord, braid, and buttons. gáppte: Norway. Woman’s long, wide tunic with a V-neck. Garibaldi sleeve: Crinoline (1840– garacolū: India. Bride’s red sari with wide, many col- 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. ored borders. In 1860s, woman’s full sleeve Garibaldi bodice garannō: Ethiopia. Cloak. that gathered onto wristband. garanza: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Dye creat- Worn with thin morning or afternoon dresses. ing variety of colors from red to purple to black. See garlicks: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration also madder. (1660–1700 C.E.). Linen made in Prussian . garbbhasutra: India. A fine vari- garnache: See ganache. ety of muslin. garnement: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Term mean- garbh-chulaidh: Ireland. Gaelic ing garment. word for frieze coat. garnet: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Dark pink, al- garcettes: Charles I and the Com- most magenta. monwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). garrankee: Sierra Leone. Shoemaker. France. A woman’s short curls garri cloth: Sierra Leone. Hand printed cotton fabric garcettes worn on the forehead; bangs. made using wax resist technique. See also photospread garchola: India. Literally “house garrick greatcoat: Directoire and First Empire (1790– (Headwear). garment,” a grid-patterned sari. 1815 C.E.). Caped overcoat. 118 garrison cap

garrison cap: (1940–1950 C.E.). United States of Amer- gauging: Romantic (1815–1840 ica. Army enlisted man’s soft, folding overseas cap. C.E.). Type of fine cartridge gartain: Scotland. Garter. Traditionally one yard long pleating. and worn tied in snaoin gartain (garter knot). Usu- gaunaka: India. A very rough ally green or red. cloth. gartan: Ireland. Gaelic word for bonnet or garter. gauntlet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 garter: 1. Ribbon that tied around leg to hold up stock- C.E.). Elbow-length glove with ing. 2. Band at bottom of pair of knee-breeches. decorative backs. garter belt: Band with supporters worn around waist gauntlet cuff: Deep flared cuff as and used to support stockings. on gauntlets. garvín: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Hairnet. gausapa: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 garza: Italy. Gauze. C.E.). Type of psila. gauntlet gash: Scotland. To be well dressed. gauze: Sheer, lightweight, leno weave fabric. gasieng: See gasing. gavacha: Guatemala. Apron. gasing: Borneo. Spinning-wheel. gay: Vietnam. Very red. gaskin: Short for galligaskin. gayado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Striped. gassa: Italy. Bow. gayas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Stripes. gassed lace: Lace made with thread that has been gaza: Poland. Gauze. passed through gas flame to burn off any extra fibers. : France. Loosely woven silk fabric; gauze. gatĕ: Slovakia. Men’s wide, coarse linen trousers. gaze: Portugal. Gauze; tissue. Gates of Hell: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). So Gaze: Germany. Gauze. called by church leaders, laced openings in wom- gaze à bouquets: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). en’s bodices. France. Gauze fabric printed in floral pattern. gates of Paris cloth: See brocatelle. gaze de Chambery: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, gatos de lomos: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. fine silk gauze striped with brightly colored stripes. Catskins. gaze de fantaisie: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). gātrikāgranthi: India. Swastika-shaped knot of fabric. France. Gauze fabric with fancy trim. gatto civetta: Italy. Fur of the civet cat. gaze d’Orient: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, new gatugatu: Samoa. Bark-cloth. fabric. gatya: Hungary. Men’s linen pantaloons cut from rect- gaze gauffree: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, a angles. diaphanous crepe. gatyamadzag: Hungary. Drawstring. gaze neige: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, new lace. gau: Vietnam. The cuffs on a pair of trousers. gazeline barege: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in gau chau: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of 1877, semi-transparent fabric made from llama wool. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for the finest chau gazzatum: Gauze silk or linen made in Gaza, Palestine. fabric. It came in three forms: 1) jee ma sa (rough gbariye: See agbada. textured), 2) din mui sa (medium textured), and 3) lai ge dai: China. Zhou dynasty. Leather girdle. kee wat chau (very smooth textured). It was a glazed geal: Ireland. Gaelic word for white. black gossamer material with a brown undersurface. geamantan: See ilic. gau dai hai: (1900–1910 C.E.). United States of America. gebauw: Holland. Fabric. Literally “boat shoes,” Chinese Hawaiian term for gebreid of geweven ondergoed: Holland. Hosiery. women’s embroidered cloth shoes with a high, thick gebreid vest: Holland. Cardigan. sole that tapered up toward the ends. gebreide muts: Holland. Stocking cap. gau liang: (1900–1910 C.E.). United States of America. gedilim: Biblical. Twisted cord tassel. Chinese Hawaiian term for a high collar. geel: Holland. Yellow. gaucho belt: (1960–1969 C.E.). Leather and metal me- geer: Holland. Gusset. dallion and chain belt. gefrens: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Fringe worn at gaucho blouse: Full, loose blouse. back of woman’s head. gaucho hat: Wide brimmed, high crowned hat. gegendas: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Corset with gaucho pants: Calf-length pants with tapered legs. In steel stays. imitation of pants worn by gauchos in Argentina. geideal: Ireland. Gaelic word for fan. gauffré: France. Term for various embossed patterns Gekko shirt: (1980–1990 C.E.). A man’s striped shirt pressed into fabric. with a white color and cuffs. It was named for the gaufrure: France. The couching of parallel lines of yarns character Gordon Gekko in Wall Street (1988), played to produce a waffle-like pattern. by Michael Douglas. gheta 119 geklede jas: Holland. Frock coat. Georgian cloth: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 geknauften kogeln: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Ger- C.E.). Introduced in 1806, lightweight broadcloth. many. Gugel that buttoned in center front. g’erbt: See apg’erbt. gelb: Germany. Yellow. gerele: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). geldem: Ethiopia. Knee-length loincloth. United Kingdom. Term meaning garment or clothes, gelumbė: Lithuania. Manufactured cloth. especially meaning finery. gemelos: Spain. ; studs. gergueta: Ecuador. Black anaku that stops just below geminal ring: Betrothal ring. the knee. gemma: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Jewel. gerife: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). gemme: See iuele. United Kingdom. Term meaning a garment. gemmews: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Jaws of hang- : Indonesia (Bali). Double ikat fabric. ing bag. German gown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Fitted gen: China. Heel of a shoe. gown with sack back, long sleeves, and front buttons. genappe cloth: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced German serge: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Serge in 1863, wool and cotton blend fabric striped in two made with worsted warp and woolen weft. See also shades of same color. thunder and lightning. genet: Fur of wildcat. German wool: See Berlin wool. Geneva bands: White lawn or linen flaps worn on front Gertrude: Flannel T-shaped robe worn by infants. of clerical dress. geru: India. Red ochre. Geneva embroidery: Embroidery similar to . Geschützlafette: Germany. Barbette. Geneva gown: Ecclesiastical vestment made as long, ge-scripla: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). loose gown with large sleeves. United Kingdom. Term meaning men’s clothes. Geneva hat: Charles I (1625–1660 C.E.). Man’s broad gestaltrock: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Germany. brimmed, high crowned hat worn by Puritan minis- Literally “form-coat,” new name for the schaube. ters and others. Sometimes untrimmed. gesteven overhemb: Holland. Boiled shirt. Geneva printruff: Charles I and the Commonwealth gestreepte of geruite katoenen stof: Holland. Gingham. (1625–1660 C.E.). United Kingdom. Puritan’s small : Japan. Similar to chopines, ruff based on those worn by Calvinists in Geneva. wooden clogs with horizontal Genoa cloak: See Italian cloak. boards that raise the feet from the Genoa lace: Italy. Variety of laces made in Genoa in ground. The clogs are held to the 17th century. feet with velvet or cord thongs. Genoa plush: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Plush fabric with gewœde: See clāpes. short, thick pile, similar to velvet. gewœdian: See scrydan. Genoa velvet: 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Italy. ghabani: Palestine. Silk fabric. geta See also photospread Brocaded silk velvet from Genoa. 2. Bustle (1865– ghabaniyyeh: Palestine. White (Foot and Legwear). 1890 C.E.). Fabric with satin ground and velvet ara- kafiyyeh with golden yellow besques. silk embroidery. Genoese embroidery: Italy. Buttonhole embroidery ghabi: Transvaal. A Ndebele girl’s 9-1/2-inch-wide done on cord on linen or muslin. beaded panel worn over a fringed apron. Genoese lace: Solid, scalloped bobbin laces decorated ghaggharo: India. A woman’s short skirt. with wheat ear motifs. ghaghara: India. Woman’s short loincloth. genouillieres: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Protec- ghagra: India. Woman’s pleated or gathered skirt. tive knee piece in armor. 2. Renaissance (1450–1550 ghagri: India. A simple, stitched skirt. C.E.) to Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Fabric gharacholoo: India. Red bridal sari. knee pieces that fit space between stockings and gharara: India. Woman’s, full, flaring pants. trunk hose. ghararas: India. Wedding outfits including a wrap genthulla: India. A bodice or a tunic. 30–40 yards long. gentish: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Fabric from gharcholu: India. Special wedding veil. Ghent. ghatra: Egypt. Worn under the futa, a headcloth that genuillieres: See genouillieres. frames the forehead. geolan: Ireland. Gaelic word for fan. ghava-ye zananeh: Iran. Woman’s long, narrow, tight- George: Nigeria. Ibo nickname for Indian . sleeved coat. georgette: Thin, lightweight, plain weave silk or rayon gheată: Romania. Shoe. fabric that has creped face. gherone: Italy. Gusset. georgette crepe: Sheer, semi-transparent crepe. gheta: Japan. High wooden clogs. 120 ghillie

ghillie: Scotland. Shoe that laces through loops instead gige: See guige. of eyelets. gigolo: (1920–1930 C.E.). High-crowned hat with center ghim bang: Vietnam. Safety pin. crease, narrow brim that turned up in the back and ghiordan: Romania. Woman’s fine bead necklace. See down in front. also colier. gigot sleeve: (20th century). Full sleeve with greatest ghiottone: Italy. Wolverine fur. fullness at elbow. ghirlanda: Italy. Garland. gig-top: See Normandy bonnet. ghlîla: Algeria. Jewish woman’s knee-length, décolleté gilaharā: India. Sari with a wide border. vest with short sleeves. gilbah: Egypt. Islamic woman’s ankle-length robe with ghost coat: (1930–1940 C.E.). United Kingdom. In 1939, long sleeves and a high neck. Made in subdued col- a man’s overcoat with a white proof finish that re- ors of cotton or wool. flected in headlights for safety, but was dark enough gi-lê: Vietnam. Vest; waistcoat. for blackout conditions. gilet: France. Worn most commonly with suits, wom- ghoutra: United Arab Emirates. Square of cotton fabric an’s sleeveless bodice made to resemble blouse. large enough to wrap around head. gilet-veste: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. ghudfeh: 1. Palestine. Woman’s festive veil with wide Man’s short fronted waistcoat. embroidered panel on one or both short sides. 2. gillie: See ghillie. Palestine. Married woman’s shawl. Usually cross- gim: See gimstān. stitched with red the dominant color. Gimma: Germany. Old High German word for jewel. ghughi: See natiyo. gimme: Germany. Old word for jewel. ghunghut: India. Veiling. gimmoru: Japan. Indian silk with silver thread designs. ghungru: India. An anklet with small bells. gimnasterka: Russia. Gymnastic shirt. ghutanna: India. Very tight trousers worn neatly gath- gimnel-ring: Late Gothic. A popular betrothal gift, two ered at the ankles. rings locked together that could be separated into ghutra: Arabia. Man’s headscarf of cotton, rayon, linen, two separate rings. voile, silk, or shantung made in variety of colors and gimp: Silk, worsted, or cotton twist trim. patterns. About four feet square (smaller for boys) gimstān: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- and worn folded into triangle with two points over dom. Old English word for jewel. shoulders, and the third down the center back. Often gimsteinn: Norway. Old word for jewel. worn over skullcap. It is held in position with an agal. giná: Egypt. Plain, black, coarse, heavy shawl. ghwayshat: Palestine. Glass bracelets. gindhuam: India. A breastcloth. giacca: Italy. Coat. Gingang: Germany. Gingham. giacchetto: Italy. Coat of mail. gingerline: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- giall’ antique: Italy. Color ancient yellow, named for a tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Fabric, sometimes reddish rich yellow marble. violet color. giall-bhrat: Ireland. Gaelic word for neck-cloth or cravat. gingham: Medium-weight, cotton or linen fabric woven giallo: Italy. Yellow. with colored yarns in stripes, checks, or other patterns. giallo antico: See giall’ antique. ginglers: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Pair of man’s giáp: Vietnam. Armor. with metal drops that rattled against the rowel giáp-bào: Vietnam. Armor. when the wearer walked, creating noise. giáp-y: Vietnam. Armored coat. ginran: Japan. Use of metallic paper strips in woven giardinetti rings: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late cloth. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Finger rings set to re- giogan: Ireland. Gaelic word for a brooch worn in the semble flower bouquets, nosegays, and jardinieres. side of a Glengarry bonnet. giá-trang: Vietnam. Bride’s trousseau. gioielle: See spillo da petto. giay ta: Vietnam. Slipper-like shoes. gioiello: Italy. Jewel. giay tây: Vietnam. Western shoes. giosān: See stoca. giay tuyet: Vietnam. Snow shoes. gipciere: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Pouch gibao: See saiote. or purse. gibeciere: See aumoniere. gipon: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Early form of giboun: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1844, doublet made from quilted fabric. Worn as undergar- man’s wide sleeved, loose cape that did not fasten, ment. By mid-14th century, had become the doublet. but hung open. See also jupe; jupon. gibus: See opera hat. gippo: Short tunic. gig coat: See curricle coat. gippon: See gipon. gloria 121

gipser: See gipciere. glacé kid: Polished glove leather. gipsy bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 glacé Marguerite: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, C.E.). Introduced in 1871, wom- shot silk dress fabric. an’s small, flat bonnet worn on Gladstone bag: Traveling bag with flexible sides that the crown of the head. It was divides into two equal compartments that hinge trimmed with lace and feathers. open to lay flat. Named for W. E. Gladstone. gipsy cloak: Romantic (1815–1840 Gladstone collar: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- C.E.). Woman’s plain circular dom. Man’s standing collar with the points flaring. wrap with hood. Gladstone overcoat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United gipsy hat: Directoire and First Em- Kingdom. Worn in 1870s, man’s short, double- gipsy bonnet pire (1790–1815 C.E.) to Romantic breasted overcoat with its shoulder cape and edges See also photospread (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- trimmed in astrakhan. (Headwear). dom. Popular from 1800 to 1830s, gland: France. Tassel. woman’s straw or chip, wide brimmed hat with rib- glandkin: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Luxurious bon that ran over crown and brim and tied under chin. gown in royal wardrobe. giraffe comb: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. glas: Ireland. Gaelic word for gray. Introduced in 1874, woman’s high ornamental hair glasag-muineil: Ireland. Gaelic word for locket. comb made of tortoiseshell. : Fabric made of glass yarns or covered in girandole: Pendant piece of jewelry. powdered glass used for polishing. girdel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) glass toweling: Plain or twill weave, smooth, checked to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. fabric used for glassware . Middle English word for belt. glauco: Spain. Light green. girdelstede: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 Glauvina pin: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- C.E.). Saxon word for waist. dom. Pin with detachable head, used as hair orna- girdle: 1. Flexible lightweight corset worn to confine ment. figure, particularly the hipline. 2. Something that glazed chintz: Chintz with glaze from being treated girds, as a belt. with paraffin and then calendered. girdle à la victime: Directoire and First Empire (1790– glazed kid: Kid leather polished with frosted glass 1815 C.E.). France. Worn in 1796, brightly colored cylinder. sash worn by women over shoulders, crossing in glazendoek: Holland. Glass cloth. back and tied around the waist. gleindorch: See gwddfdorch. girdle glass: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– glen checks: Any of the small, evenly checked designs 1660 C.E.). United Kingdom. Hand mirror worn that originated in Scotland. hanging from waist by women. Glengarry: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) girike: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s large, heavy agbada. to 20th century. First appearing in 1805, wool cap girki: Nigeria. Wealthy man’s cotton damask gown. with crease in top. Edges were bound with ribbon girri: Ethiopia. Koma earrings. which hangs down back in streamers. Sides are stiff- Gitana: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1850, velvet ened. Often had red or blue tuft on top. cloak that buttoned down the front. It had a small glenglen: Trinidad. Small round bell hung on the points upright collar and was trimmed in black Brussels of the Carnival Pierrot Grenade costume. lace. 2. In 1855, Spanish broadcloth wrapper. It was glib: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Ireland. Man’s hair- trimmed with moss applique and heavy fringe. style where hair on front of head grew to cover eyes, gite: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance but the rest was shaved above the ears. Forbidden in (1450–1550 C.E.). Gown. United Kingdom in 1537. gitzwart: Holland. Jet black. glinne: Ireland. Gaelic word for coat. giubea: Romania. Long, white drugget coat. glissade: United Kingdom. Cotton lining fabric. giumedanii: Romania. Man’s long coat that fastens on gloan: France. Breton for wool one side. glocken: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic giuvaer: Romania. Jewel. (1350–1450 C.E.). Germany. Circular cape. : Iran. Hand sewn shoes. glōf: Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United Kingdom. giwāti: See wāt. Glove. gjorð: Norway. Old word for girdle. glofi: Norway. Old word for glove. gla Halstuch: USA. Married Amish woman’s sleeve- gloria: Tightly woven silk and worsted, silk and cot- less capelet worn across the shoulders and forming a ton, or other blend fabric woven in diagonal twill. point in the center front and center back. Primarily used to cover . 122 glotón glotón: Spain. Wolverine fur. godweb-cynn: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 glouhché: Bulgaria. Woman’s sleeveless, slightly flared, C.E.). United Kingdom. Cloak of fancy material. knee-length coat that opens in front. goffer: To pleat, crimp, or flute. glouton: France. Wolverine fur. goffered veil: See nebula headdress. glove: Covering for hand with separate sheaths for each goffering: Process of fluting, waving, or pleating fabric. finger. go-go boot: (1960–1970 C.E.). Woman’s calf-high white glove silk: Warp knit fabric used for gloves. boot. glove string: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Ribbon goirridh: Ireland. Gaelic word for fox colored. or horsehair tie worn tied or buckled at elbow of gola: Portugal. Collar. woman’s long glove. Golconda chintz: See Masulipatam chintz. glove-band: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– gold and silver kid: Kid leather gilded or silvered. 1660 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Worn gold embroidery: Elaborate embroidery done with gold from c1640 to c1700, band of ribbon ties worn at the thread. elbow of woman’s glove to hold it in place. gold ingot bun: China. Woman’s shoe-shaped bun. gluga: Romania. Worn in bad weather, a tasseled or gold kid: Kidskin with gold leaf applied. fringed woolen hood. gold lace: Lace of gold color or lace thread with gold. glùinean: Ireland. Garter. golden tea brown: China. Yuan dynasty. Shade of brown. glutton: Hide of the Gulo luscus, a cross between a wolf gole: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance and a bear. The fur is brown with a characteristic (1450–1550 C.E.). Cape on hood or . beige forked pattern on the back of the animal. golf cap: Man’s visored flat cap. goaly: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1874, ecru golf cloth: Fine woolen fabric used for sportswear. silk, texture of fine canvas. golf hose: Heavy woolen hose. goatee: Chin beard trimmed to single point. golf shoe: Sports shoe with cleats on the bottom. goat’s hair fringe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1864, golf skirt: Heavy ankle length wool skirt with flared new trim. bottom. gob cap: U. S. Navy white cotton twill cap with round golf vest: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United King- crown and turned-up stitched brim. dom. In 1894, a man’s single-breasted, collarless vest gobaishi: Japan. Black dye. with side pockets and watch-pocket. Often made of gobanji: United States of America. Hawaii. A plaid or knitted scarlet wool and bound with braid. check pattern. gólfi: Greece. Amulet. gobelin blue: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in golilla: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Starched, 1887, gray blue. round neckband. goburan-ori: Japan. Tapestry weave in the Gobelin goller: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. Flat, style. plain piece of fabric to which back and front of schol- god: France. Breton for a fold in a garment. ar’s gown was sewn. 2. Austria. Woman’s collar that godalming: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Calfskin covers throat and shoulders. leather made in Godalming. Gollier: See Krage. goddess sleeve: Sleeve cut full from elbow to wrist with golosh: United States of America. Shoe with wood or two gathered lines along fullness. leather soles that was held on with instep straps. godell: France. Breton for pocket. gomeda lugadu: India. A short yellow waistcloth. godet: Triangular piece of cloth set into garment for gömlek: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to present. Tur- fullness or decoration. key. Woman’s round-necked, white chemise. godet pleat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Worn in 1870s, gomushin: See komusin. hollow, tubular pleat that widened downward on gonbaiz: Morocco. Jewish woman’s red or green bodice women’s skirts. trimmed with gold stripes and silver buttons. godet skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United gondolier net: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1870s, wide Kingdom. In 1895, a woman’s day skirt made with mesh hairnet held in place with black bows. godet pleats on back and sides. Hem was often rein- gonella: Italy. Skirt. forced with a thin steel. gonelle: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.) to Byzantine and godo: Hausa. Fabric woven from thick black and white Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Long tunic that was threads. adopted as monastic dress. Originally worn by both godrons: Type of Jewish ruff. genders, male version being only calf length, female godweb: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). version being ankle length. United Kingdom. Tenth-century term for richest gonellone: See gonelle. fabric available, thick silken cloth in various colors. gongzhuangkù: China. Overalls. gown à la turque 123 gonna: Italy. Skirt. turban. gonna pantalone: Italy. Pantskirt. gošō: Ethiopia. Copper. gonne: See gonelle. gossamer: Very sheer, soft, gauzelike fabric made from goon lhiabbee: Isle of Man. Loose, dyed linen jacket fine silk yarns. with broad collar. gossamer feathers: Downy feathers from under wings goose-turd: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Yellowish green. of goose. gooseturd greene: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Yel- gossamer satin: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 lowish green. C.E.). Worn from 1813, thin, soft finish satin. gorchudd: Wales. Veil. gót: Vietnam. The heel of a shoe. gordel: Holland. Girdle. gota: India. A variety of gold or silver lace. gördel: Sweden. Girdle. gothic cap: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- Gordon blue: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, gray dom. Woman’s indoor morning cap with small blue. crown and ruching around face. gored bell skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United goud: Holland. Gold. Kingdom. In 1893, a woman’s skirt cut with one cen- goudbruin: Holland. Auburn. ter front panel, three to five side panels, and a back gouden: Holland. Golden. panel cut on the cross. Ten to 16 feet around at hem gougandine: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. and had inner muslin or crinoline nine-inch ruffle. Worn partially open in front, a laced corset popular Gore-Tex: (1970–1980 C.E.). Introduced in 1976, a fabric during the reign of Louis XIV. membrane that stops water from entering but allows goura feather: Dainty, short feather from crown pigeon. perspiration to evaporate through it. gourah feather: See goura feather. gorge à la Gabrielle d’Estrées: Late Georgian (1750– gourgandine: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– 1790 C.E.). France. Neckline fashion named for Ga- 1660 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. brielle d’Estrees (1563–1599), mistress of Henri IV. Woman’s silk or velvet, front lacing corselette. gorge de pigeon: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). gourgourans: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in France. Changeable color, as in shot silk. 1835, dress fabric with light ground and white satin : Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Piece of linen or stripes. silk that was worn by women draped over chin, neck, gouriz: France. Breton for belt. and shoulders and then pinned to hair on sides of : France. Gusset. face. Replaced the barbette. gouzougenn: France. Breton for collar. gorgias: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Piece of gauze govillam: India. A cloak. fabric used to fill décolleté of women’s gowns. gowce: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance gorgoran: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). (1450–1550 C.E.). Gusset. Heavy form of gros de Tours. gown: See gonelle. gorguera: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Paletot. gown à la française: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to gorm: Ireland. Gaelic word for azure blue. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Fitted bodice with gorm-aotrom: Ireland. Gaelic word for light blue. stomacher in front and two large pleats in the back gorocana: India. The yellow dye used for mak- reaching from neck to hem. Worn universally at first ing the tilak (forehead mark) or for textiles. and became court gown until French Revolution. gorra: Spain. Cap. gown à la levantine: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). gorra deportiva: Spain. Tuque. Introduced ca. 1778, overgown that pinned in front gorra escocesa: Spain. Tam-’o-shanter. and was worn open over underskirt. It had half gorro: 1. Portugal. Red woolen or linen stocking cap; sleeves. bonnet. 2. Spain. Tasseled, knitted stocking cap. gown à la polonaise: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). gorro de dormir: Spain. Nightcap. Woman’s gown that fastened at top of bodice below gorro de marinero: Spain. Cap ribbon. which it was cut away to show waistcoat. It had sabot gorro de pieles: Spain. Busby. sleeves trimmed with petits bonhommes. Skirt was gorrym: Isle of Man. Color blue. draped up in three panels over the underskirt. gòrsaid: Ireland. Gorget. gown à la sultane: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). gørsemi: See gimsteinn. Introduced in 1781, dress that was open over under- gorset: Poland. Corset. skirt of contrasting color. goshodoki: Japan. Kosode style popular in the upper gown à la turque: Directoire and First Empire (1790– class. 1815 C.E.). France. Introduced in 1799, elegant gown goshpech: India. 1. The decorative band of a hat. 2. A with fitted, pleated bodice, turndown collar, flaring shawl worn twisted around the head and ears as a sleeves, and draped belt worn tied over one hip. 124 gown à l’anglaise

gown à l’anglaise: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). grande-assiette sleeves: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Worn ca. 1778 to 1785, gown with long boned point Man’s sleeve cut to form round armseye. in back that was worn over waistcoat. It had a skirt granilla: Spain. Grain de poudre. that was open in front to show an underskirt of same granit de laine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1864, soft fabric. gray wool fabric speckled with dots of second color. gown à l’insurgente: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). granite: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1865, France. Gown à l’anglaise with pagoda sleeves. chiné woolen fabric in two shades of one color. gown and coat: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Wom- granite cloth: Durable, lightweight fabric in figured an’s robe worn open over a petticoat. weave. Often made of wool yarns. grabanni: Lebanon. Machine embroidery. grannie skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.) In 1893, a cir- Graham turban: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 cular skirt made with flounces and tucks at knee. It had C.E.). Introduced in 1811, woman’s plaid silk bonnet a velvet band around its sixteen to eighteen foot hem. worn with plume of black feathers. granny bonnet: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, Grain: Germany. Grain de poudre. an oversized bonnet with flaring brim and pot- grain: The direction of the fabric, along the warp and shaped crown that was trimmed in feathers. weft threads. grano d’orzo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Chain grain de poudre: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1877, mail closed with a rivet. extremely soft silk tissue. 2. Very light, grainy wool grant: Ireland. Gaelic word for gray or green. fabric. grape brown: China. Yuan dynasty. Shade of brown. grain leather: Leather made from hair side of skin. grass embroidery: United States. American Indian grains: See wheat ears. satin stitch embroidery done using colored grass for graiveyaka: India. Man’s neck ornament made of sev- thread. eral rings. grassets: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- gramalla: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Jewish man’s gian (1750–1790 C.E.). United States. Popular from long outer gown. 1712 to 1768, dress fabric. gran gola: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Large ruff. grasshopper green: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In grana: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Red dye 1892, a new color. used as base for many colors. 2. See cochinilla. grau: Germany. Gray. grana encarnada: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. graundice: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan Reddish woolen. (1550–1625 C.E.). Head ornament. granaat: Holland. The gem, garnet. grauw: See grijs. granatza: Assyria. Long-sleeved gown. gravata: Portugal. Necktie; cravat. grand broché: France. Any particularly spectacular bro- gray lilac: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. caded silk weaving. Violet gray. grand domino: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Large grazzets: See grassets. cloak worn as at carnivals. Later worn to cover gré: Ireland. Gaelic spelling of gray. masked ball costumes when traveling to the event. greatcoat: Large overcoat, commonly made of wool. grand habit: See habit. greatcoat dress: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 grand habit de cour: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). C.E.). United Kingdom. Dress cut like a greatcoat. France. In 1780s, formal costume for court occasions : Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.) to 20th century. which included heavily boned bodice, elaborate lace Accessory that covered leg from ankle to knee. sleeves, heavily trimmed pannier skirt with long grebe: Ivory colored, smooth, down feather of grebe train, all made from luxurious fabrics. duck. grand vair: See vair. grebe cloth: Cotton fabric with downy surface on one grande pelisse d’hiver: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). side. France. Large quilted cloak, often trimmed in fur. Grecian bend: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular stance grande redingote à l’allemande: Late Georgian (1750– for women involving body being tilted forward from 1790 C.E.). Full-length redingote in German style. hips. grande robe à corps ouvert: Late Georgian (1750–1790 Grecian robe: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Fancy gown that opened in front to C.E.). Popular from 1800 to 1805, pseudo-classic eve- show matching petticoat. Worn with wide panniers. ning gown. grande robe à la française: Late Georgian (1750–1790 Grecian sandal: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Richly trimmed gown worn with large pan- C.E.). Introduced in 1812, novel footwear for evening niers. It had loose pleats in back like all robes à la and street. francaise. Grecian sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United gros vilain vert 125

Kingdom. Introduced in 1852, woman’s undersleeve gris Anglaise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, lighter that was slit on sides and then buttoned shut. shade than steel with metallic cast. Grecque corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United gris de fer: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1883, iron gray. Kingdom. Popular in 1850, evening bodice that was gris humo: Spain. Smoke gray. pleated vertically to point in front and worn low on gris parduzco: Spain. Taupe. shoulders. gris ratón: Spain. Taupe. gredzens: Lithuania. Finger ring. grisaglia: Italy. Grisaille. Greek embroidery: Applique in which stitch pattern to grisaille: France. Cotton and wool fabric with figured hold applied piece is repeated on ground. design. : Needlepoint lace like reticella. grisalho: Portugal. Gray colored. Greek stripes: United Kingdom. Rough, plain weave cot- grisalla: Spain. Grisaille. ton fabric made in dull stripes on dark blue ground. grise: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Expensive gray Greek Venise: Fine reticello. fur, probably squirrel or marten. grege: France. Natural color of raw silk. grisette: Sturdy, gray wool fabric. gregesque: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Puffed vene- Grisi: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, woman’s tians. satin cloak gathered on plain round yoke. Trimmed grego: Short coat with hood made of thick, rough fabric. with scalloped guipure lace. gregs: Sportsman’s leggings. griza: Greece. A woman’s long sleeveless vest of fine gregues: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan white wool. It is bordered in red wool. (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Worn from 1515 to 1590, grober Wollstoff: Germany. Droguet. breeches. grobes Wollzeug: Germany. Kersey. greige: France. Unbleached, undyed fabric. groen: Holland. Green. greige goods: Unfinished fabric in its natural state. grof weefsel: Holland. Linsey-woolsey. gréis: Ireland. Embroidery. grogram: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Rough silk, gréiseadaireachd: Ireland. Embroidery. mohair, and wool fabric that was often stiffened with gréiseadh: Ireland. Embroidery. gum. gréis-obair: Ireland. Embroidery. groilleach: Ireland. Gaelic word for coarse cloth. grelot: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. grommet: Metallic eyelet. Ball fringe, popular on evening dresses. groppo: Italy. Knot. grembiule: Italy. Apron. gros: Strong fabric. gremial: Ecclesiastical dress. Silk or linen apron worn gros bleu: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1873, blue black. by a bishop when officiating. gros de Londres: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1. In 1870, grenadier cap: United Kingdom. Special cap worn by very soft silk fabric with heavy reps like velours. 2. grenadiers. Originally a simple cloth cap, by the mid- In 1883, lightweight silk fabric made in horizontal 18th century, this was a miter-shaped cap. The shape ribs. has continued to evolve through the years. gros de Naples: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 grenadierka: Russia. Grenadier cap. C.E.). Heavy silk fabric with ribbed ground. grenadine: Fine, loose leno weave fabric of silk or wool. gros de Rome: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Crinkled silk. grenadine rayée: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1873, gren- gros de Suez: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in adine with white satin stripes. 1867, silk with horizontal rib. Grenfell cloth: Firmly woven cotton fabric similar to gros de Tours: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Byrd cloth. C.E.). Tabby weave fabric with heavier weft than grian-sgàil: Ireland. Parasol; sunshade. warp. grian-sgàilean: Ireland. Little parasol. gros d’Eccose silk: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, gridelin: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Soft blue new fabric. gray. gros drap: France. Kersey. grigio: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Gray. gros gren: Spain. Grosgrain. grijs: Holland. Gray. gros point: Italy. Venetian point lace with large raised grijs blauw: Holland. Wedgwood blue. designs. See also gros . grillage: Barred or grated ground in open spaces of lace. gros point de Venise: Italy. Heavy, raised Venetian grillé: France. Half-stitch work. point lace. grin: Ireland. Gaelic word for green. gros vair: See vair. grinsing: Indonesia. Double-ikat textile. Considered gros vilain vert: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). national treasure and may not be exported. France. Literally “very dark green,” green derived gris: 1. See grise. 2. Italy. Gray. 3. Spain. Gray. from yellow made with an iron mordant. 126 groseille

groseille: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, goose- guepiere: (1940–1950 C.E.). France. Small, lightweight berry color. corset. grosgrain: 1. France. To have heavy cross-grain ribs. 2. gueridons: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Panniers Heavy fabric or ribbon corded selvedge to selvedge. made of very large hoops fastened together with grotetore: See gros de Tours. tape. ground: The bars or net which support a pattern in a : Fitted, knitted, wool shirt worn by sailors. piece of lace. guêtre: France. Gaiter. grun: 1. Morocco. Jewish woman’s horned headdress. 2. gueules: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Small, fur-lined Germany. Green. shoulder cape worn with lower corners turned back. grunong: Borneo. Small bells used as a fringe. gueuse: A light, net-grounded bobbin lace. gu gu guan: China. Yuan dynasty. Tall birch-bark hat gugel: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Germany. Man’s covered with black or red fabric. Trimmed with four hood worn in rough weather. It varied in size and to five foot long willow branches, flowers, and feath- shape. ers. Worn by empress, emperor’s concubines, and gui yi: China. Han dynasty (206 B.C.E.–7 C.E.). Wom- wives of high ministers. an’s robe with left front wrapped over right. guà: China. Unlined upper garment. guige: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Strap used to sus- gua pi mao: China. Ming dynasty. Small, round skull- pend shield from neck or shoulder. cap made of gauze. Worn by commoners. guilloche: Decorative pattern using two or more inter- gualcas: Ecuador. Bead necklace. twining lines. Often done in braid. gualescio: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Plain guimp: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance fabric, probably silk, used for linings. (1450–1550 C.E.). Light material used to surround guanaco: Thick, soft fur of wild South American animal woman’s face. related to the llama, the Lama glama huanacas. The fur guimpe: 1. Short blouse worn with a pinafore. 2. (1910– ranges in color from red brown to white. 1919 C.E.). Chemisette with high collar worn to fill Guanako: Germany. Guanaco. in neckline. guanaquito: Fur of young guanaco. Camel colored with guinda: Spain. Cherry color. white belly. cloth: United Kingdom. Gray cotton fabric guanmiãn: China. Royal hat. made for export to West Africa. guante: Spain. Glove. guinga: Spain. Gingham. guanto: Italy. Glove. guingan: France. Gingham. guanto senza dita: Italy. Mitten. guipere de Bruges: See duchesse lace. guard chain: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. guipure: Heavy lace in large pattern with no ground or From c1825 on, small linked, long chain worn around heavy net ground. neck and holding watch. Replaced the fob chain. guipure arabe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. guard ring: Fitted finger ring worn above loose ring, to Heavy Duchesse-like lace made with a thick silk hold it in position. cordonnet. guardamalleta: Spain. Lambrequin. guipure de Bruges: Old bobbin lace appearing to have Guard-infanta: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. been made with tape. Literally “princess saver,” oversized farthingale. guirlande: France. Garland. guards: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan guirmean: Ireland. Gaelic word for indigo. (1550–1625 C.E.). Decorative fabric bands used to guirnalda: Spain. Garland. conceal seams in garments. guiseid: Ireland. Gaelic word for a gusset of a shirt and guarnache: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Man’s clocking on hose. poncho-like garment. guiterre: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Small guashmi: Ecuador and Guatemala. Tunic. buckler of leather. shirt: Cuba. Sports shirt developed from guj: India. An embroidered wedding blouse or coat. smock. gul yaqa: Turkmenistan. Unmarried woman’s circular guayanilla: Strong, white, lustrous cotton from West collar stud. Indies. gulbadan: India. A silk warp-faced cloth in a multicol- guazzerone: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Hem- ored, vertically striped design. line border, sometimes trimmed in contrasting fabric. gulbi: India. The color pink. guba: Hungary. Man’s knee-length coat, sometimes güldenstick: Lithuania. Gold embroidery. hooded. Worn like a cloak. gul-e-anar: India. Scarlet. guchccha: India. Necklace of 32 strings of pearls. gule-baqli: India. A flowered silk. gudia: India. A cotton stuff from Bengal or Gauda. gulenar: India. Crimson. gyrðill 127 guler: Romania. Collar. gusanillo: Spain. Chenille. guleras: See guler. gusset: Small triangular or tapering piece of fabric or guleron: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Cape on chap- leather inserted into garment to strengthen or en- eron. large it. gulik holland: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Very gus-to-weh: United States of America. Iroquois feath- fine white linen used for shirts. ered cap. It was a round skullcap covered in leather, gul-i-sarrai: India. Silver gray. layered in small turkey feathers, and topped with gulix: See gulik holland. one large eagle feather. gulpumbah: India. A light yellow color. gu’ut: Ethiopia. Koma necklace of one or more strands gun: China. Woman’s skirt. of beads, hoops, and amulets. gun fu: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). After guzik: Poland and Portugal. Button. 1759, imperial surcoat with four, eight, ten, or twelve guzjók: Greece. Vest worn open at the front. embroidered medallions. guzzy: India. Very poor quality cotton cloth. gun mian: China. Special ceremonial attire worn by gwddfdorch: Wales. Necklace. men for sacrificial rites during Ming dynasty (1368– gwel: France. Breton for veil. 1644 C.E.). gwisg: See dillad. gùn na h-eaglaise: See léine-bhàn. gwisgo: Wales. To clothe or to dress. gùn odhar: See léine-bhàn. gwiska: France. Breton for to clothe or dress. : See kabanica. gwiskamant: See dillad. gunachan: Ireland. Gaelic word for little gown. gwlan: Wales. Wool. gunia: Hungary. Kandys. gwlanen: Wales. Woolen cloth. gunji: India. A man’s vest. gwregys: Wales. Belt. gunna: Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). Long tunic. gymschoentjes: Holland. Gym shoes. gunoberonicia: See gunia. gyolcs: Hungary. Cambric. gunpowder silk: Peru. Very fine silk used for mantas. gyolocsfersling: Hungary. White gathered skirt. guo luo dai: China. Zhou dynasty. Waistband that gyöngyös bokréta: Hungary. Man’s hat trimmed with fastened on ends with hooks (called dai gou). Often beads. trimmed with gold, silver, or pearls. gypciere: See gipciere. guõc: Vietnam. Wooden shoe. gypsy blouse: (1960–1970 C.E.). Short-sleeved, draw- guosaga: Norway. Mostly red vuoddaga with yellow, string blouse, cut full in the body. green, blue, and white. It ends in a tassel. gypsy cloak: See Gitana. gurača: Ethiopia. Black. gyrdel: United Kingdom. Old English word for girdle. gurda: Ethiopia. Woman’s sash of jet and hair with the gyrdel-hring: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 loose ends hanging to the knees. C.E.). United Kingdom. Girdle buckle. gurgurlya: Greece. Polychrome thread. gyrdels: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). gurnakuntala: India. A man’s hairstyle where the hair United Kingdom. Girdle or loincloth. Also a belt is curled and hangs loose to the shoulder. worn by monks. First occurred in eighth century. gurrah: India. Coarse, thick muslin fabric. gyrdels-hringe: See gyrdel-hring. Gürtel: Germany. Girdle. gyrðill: See gjorð. Gurtil: Germany. Old High German word for girdle.

H

haakwerk: Holland. Crochet. C.E.). Originally worn as part of riding costume, this Haarnadel: Germany. Hairpin. dickey type shirt was 15 inches long in front and 11 haarspeld: Holland. Hairpin; bobby pin. inches long in back and tied on sides with tape. It had habaki: Japan. Leggings. a stand collar and ruffled front that buttoned with habassie: See ábbasi. two buttons. The sleeves were ruffled at wrist. In habergeon: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Chain or ring the 19th century, worn to fill in neckline of gown. In mail jacket worn as part of armor. 1815, muslin or cambric ruff was added to neckline. habillement: See biliment. habit-redingote: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United habiller: France. To clothe or to dress. Kingdom. Introduced in 1879, princess polonaise habit: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). A garment. 2. with overskirt full-length in back and closed to Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration (1660– knees in front. 1700 C.E.). Complete set of clothing; a suit. 3. Late habits: See vétements. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Light justaucorps; the habkeh: Palestine. Literally “binding,” a decorative habit à la francaise. stitch used on necklines and wrist openings. habit à la française: See habit. habok: Korea. Summer clothes. habit backed skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Full-length : Japan. Literally “soft as down,” thin, soft, plain skirt flared to hem. Center back featured inverted weave, washable silk fabric. Heavier than China silk. pleat stitched partially down. See also Japanese silk. habit bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. habutaye: See habutai. Introduced in 1877, long cuirasse bodice with long hacele: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). basques in back worn open in front over a waistcoat. United Kingdom. Full-length cloak worn by both habit de demi-gala: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). genders. In 10th and 11th centuries, sometimes France. Dress style less formal than grand gala using hooded. less rich fabric and trim. hachijo: Japan. Soft, plain weave silk. habit degage: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 hachimaki: United States of America. Hawaii. A head C.E.). France. Double-breasted redingote cut away in sweatband. front to show the waistcoat. Hachul: Germany. Old High German term for cloak. habit d’escalier: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). to Ro- hacketon: See acton. mantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Full evening dress : Plume used to decorate a headdress. with half robe and short sleeves. Sleeves were slit at hadajuban: Japan. Woman’s short-sleeved, thin cami- bottom and laced up. sole. habit glove: Early Georgian (1700– haer-naedl: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 1750 C.E.). United Kingdom. Wom- C.E.). United Kingdom. Hairpin. an’s short riding glove. haet: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). habit noir: France. Man’s black United Kingdom. Cap or hat. evening tailed suit. haetera: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). habit shirt: Early Georgian (1700– United Kingdom. Men’s clothes, particularly those habit shirt 1750 C.E.) to Crinoline (1840–1865 belonging to the poor, often in rough condition.

129 130 haftel

haftel: Austria. Man’s collarless, long jacket with con- haircord: Plain weave cotton fabric with cords one- trasting neck and cuffs. quarter inch apart. Häftler: United States of America. Word referring to the hair-lace: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Filet for hair. Amish people. hairnet: Net worn over hair to hold it in place. hagorah: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew man’s hair-pin crochet: A delicate form of openwork created girdle. using a large hair pin and a hook. Hahnenfeder: Germany. Cock feather. : Insertion lace with looped edges and firm haidate: Japan. Armored skirt. center. haiduk: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Austria and haji: Japan. An Okinawan term for bashofu. Hungary. Tall cylindrical felt cap. hakama: Japan. Pair of loose trousers that are on formal haiena: United States of America. Hawaii. Yellowish; occasions worn over the kimono. Made of stiff silk greenish. in dark color and are open halfway up the sides. The haihúnshan: China. Sailor’s striped shirt. fullness is pleated at top with six pleats in front and haik: Algeria. Long piece of cotton or wool handmade two in back. It is worn attached to a belt. cloth which envelops the woman in public. Usually hakata: Japan. A thick rep. 6 to 6-1/2 yards long and 2 yards wide. It conceals hakimono: Japan. Footwear. entire body except the eyes which are hidden by a hakoseko: Japan. A brocaded ornamental purse worn white veil. tucked into the neckline of the kimono. haik royal: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Transparent, haku-e: Japan. Gold painting on cloth. lightly pleated, worn by royalty. hakuls: See wasti. hailìsi cuni: China. . halakea: United States of America. Hawaii. White tapa. ha‘imanawa: United States of America. Hawaii. Thin, halba: See libá. delicate, white tapa. halchii’: See lichii’. haină: Romania. Coat; garment. haldi: India. (used as a dye). hainaka: United States of America. Hawaii. Handker- halecret: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan chief. (1550–1625 C.E.). Corset favored by the Swiss. hainaka ‘a‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Neck- halena: Czechoslovakia. Man’s long, wide overcoat. erchief. haleny: Slovakia. . hainaka lei: See hainaka ‘a‘i. half bishop sleeve: Crinoline hainaka pa‘eke: United States of America. Hawaii. (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, Pocket handkerchief. sleeve cut plain at top, gath- hainaka pakeke: See hainaka pa‘eke. ered at wrist to cuff. haincelin: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Riding half boot: Directoire and First garment with embroidered sleeves worn for effect Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) to Ro- rather than warmth. Became fashionable in 1386. mantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Wom- haĭne: See îmbracaminte. an’s low shoe worn after 1812. hair: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Bright tan color. half handkerchief: Early Geor- hair à la Recamier: Directoire and First Empire (1790– gian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Ro- 1815 C.E.). United States of America. Introduced in mantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Diag- 1802, hairstyle in which the woman’s hair is drawn onal half of handkerchief worn back from the left eyebrow. on head or neck. From 1800 half bishop sleeve hair à la Romaine: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 to 1830, a woman’s triangular cape worn pinned to C.E.). Woman’s hairstyle in which the hair is arranged crown of head with one point in back. After 1830s, it in coils or braids that ring the head like a coronet. was called a fanchon. hair line stripe: Black or dark blue suiting with single half shirt: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Geor- white yarn stripe. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s short shirt with fancy hair shirt: Shirt or loincloth made of horsehair and front that was worn over plain shirt. worn next to the skin for penance. half silk: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Fabric with a hair strings: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States linen warp and a silk weft. of America. Small pieces of string tied to the hair. half-beaver: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– hairbines: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United 1660 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Hat Kingdom. Worsted, plain weave fabric with rough made of blend of beaver hair and another fur. surface made in Norwich. half-dress: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Crinoline : Stiff, wiry fabric made with cotton warp and (1840–1865 C.E.). Term referring to day dress and horsehair weft. Used to upholster chairs and sofas. that dress worn to informal evening functions. hanging sleeve 131 haling hands: Heavy gloves or mittens, usually wool, hamsa mithuna: India. A decorative motif of a pair of with leather palms worn by sailors and working swans. men. hamsa-chihna-dukula-vana: India. Bridegroom’s silk halja: Croatia and Serbia. Dress; coat. embroidered with swans. haljine: See odjeca. hamsakah: India. Anklets. halka: Poland. Slip. hana: Australia. Maori’s all white cape. Hallingdal breeches: Norway. Men’s yellow breeches hanao: Japan. Thongs on geta. that are finely embroidered. hànbèixin: China. Sleeveless undershirt. halo: Round, flat bandeau open in the center to fit the : Korea. Term for the national costume. head. It is placed inside a hat that is too large in order hances: See cadach. to make it fit. hancha: Japan. A sleeveless jacket with dyed patterns. : See bambino hat. hand: 1. The tactile qualities of a fabric. 2. Crinoline halsbaand: Denmark. Necklace. (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of America. Unit of halsband: Sweden. Necklace. measure equal to four inches. Halsband: Germany. Necklace. hand fall: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 Halsbinde: Germany. Necktie; cravat. C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United King- halsboord: Holland. Neckband. dom. Turned back, starched cuff trimmed in lace. It Halsbouc: Germany. Necklace. was often worn with a standing or falling band. Halsboug: See Menni. handboei: Holland. Bracelet. halsdoek: See hoofddoek. handewarpes: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United halsgjørð: See men. Kingdom. White or colored fabric made in East An- Halsgolt: See Halsbouc; Menni. glia. halshemd: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. handkerchief dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Material used to fill in neckline. Kingdom. Introduced in 1880, dress made of fabric halsketting: Holland. Necklace. resembling large bandanas. Tunic was made from halslijn: Holland. Neckline. two bandanas with points almost reaching hem. halsneusdoek: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Upper points show beneath the basque-like jacket- Neckerchief. bodice. halssieraad: Holland. Carcanet. handkerchief lawn: Soft cotton lawn. halssnoer: Holland. Necklet. handkerchief linen: Lightweight, very fine grade, plain halstuch: United States of America. Amish woman’s weave linen. shoulder cape. handkerchief tunic: Overskirt where outer edges are Halstuch: Germany. Scarf. corners that hang in pleats. top: (20th century). Bare-backed blouse with tie hand-ruffs: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Geor- or loop of fabric around back of the neck. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. Wrist ruffles. haluk: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Poor Jewish man’s händschen: Switzerland. Gloves. shirt. handschoen: Holland. Glove. ham: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Handschuh: Germany. Glove. United Kingdom. Shirt. hand-scio: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). hamaku‘u: United States of America. Hawaii. To tie United Kingdom. Mitten. one’s hair in a topknot. handske: Denmark and Sweden. Glove. hamarti: Abyssinia. Heavy brass bracelets. handu djere: Timbuktu. A half-moon pendant. Hamburg homespun: Denmark. Fabric with pale stripes. handubaek: See songabang. Hamilton lace: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Coarse haneeka: United States of America. Hawaiian word for lace with a diamond pattern. handkerchief. hammercut beard: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to han-eri: Japan. An ornamental neckband for the under- Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). garment of a kimono. Combination beard and moustache that formed a hanga-korbo: Timbuktu. Silver crescent earring with a hammer shape, the beard forming the handle and the large ball of amber and a small ball of coral on it. waxed moustache the head. hangers: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Straps that hung hammock cloth: Plain weave cotton fabric woven in from girdle and held the sword. brightly colored stripes. hanging sleeve: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Charles hamo ‘ula: United States of America. Hawaii. To dye I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Long something red. sleeves slit from shoulder to wrist. Arm extended hamsa: India. Embroidery pattern of the sacred goose. through upper part of sleeve. 132 hangra

hangra: 1. India. Striped silk sa. 2. Korea. Almost trans- harisnya: Hungary. Men’s gray or white homespun parent sa silk with weft skipped at intervals to create breeches worn over tight trousers with front drop- parallel lines. Also made of or cotton. fly. Trimmed with red of black braid on sides. Held han-juban: Japan. Woman’s undergarment. up with strap. hankotana: Japan. A face mask. harlem stripes: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late hanina: United States of America. Hawaii. A yellow Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Holland. Linen. sarong. harlequin plaid: Fabric with contrasting color diamond han’pa: United States of America. Dakota Indian’s moc- patterns. casins. harlot: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Garment similar to hāns: India. Close-fitting necklace with pearls and gems. modern tights. hansam: Korea. Long piece of white silk worn draped harlots: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). In 1360s, man’s over a bride’s hands held at chest level. parti-colored hose. Worn laced to paltocks. hanselin: See haincelin. harrateen: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Coarse hànshan: China. Undershirt; t-shirt. linen fabric used for curtains and bed furniture. hansworst: Holland. Pantaloon. Harrie sack: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced hanten: Japan. A sailing jacket. in 1862, boy’s plain sack coat without lapels. It was Hantschuoch: Germany. Glove. trimmed around borders and down sleeve seam with Hantscuoh: Germany. Old High German term for glove. braid in Grecian style. hanzki: See glofi. harrington: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in hao mao: China. Qing dynasty. Conical army hat. 1835, stout fabric used for winter overcoats. haol: China. Long robe. harris: France, Italy, and Spain. Harry tweed. haori: Japan. Worn by both gen- harris tweed: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle ders, a loose, knee-length, silk (1865–1890 C.E.). Loosely woven, homespun tweed. coat tied in front with silk cords. harry tweed: Wool tweed hand woven in the Outer happi: Japan. A workman’s gar- Hebrides. haol ment that indicates his trade. harsa: Nigeria. Wealthy man’s turban of white cotton hār: India. Gold necklace with gauze. pearls and gems. Haru: See Flahs. Har: See Vlahs. harvard sheeting: United Kingdom. Shirting fabric wo- hara: India. Necklace. ven in a twill weave with colored stripes. harasekhara: India. White necklace. harvards: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Striped cotton haraszt: Hungary. Coarse woolen shirting in two and two twill or plain weave. thread used for szür embroidered haryani: India. A cloth of gold. haori prior to 1880. harzkappe: See gestaltrock. haravsti: India. Large pearl necklace. Hasenhaar: Germany. Hare hair. harayasti: India. Necklace of one string of pearls. hashimi: Iraq. Woman’s loose, long-sleeved tunic-dress. harbeh: Palestine. Horseshoe-shaped padded roll worn hasp: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Decorative hook atop the shatweh. and eye closure. : Cutaway embroidery of triangles hastávali: India. Bracelets. and diamonds used on the edges of women’s garments. hasti: India. Ivory bangles. harden: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration hastrigánky: Slovakia. Fancy black lambskin caps. (1660–1700 C.E.). Common linen made with the hat à la reine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Wom- coarsest hemp. an’s Italian straw hat with shallow brim that turned hardhanger cloth: Soft, mercerized, basket weave fabric down around small crown. Narrow hatband, ends of in white or ecru. which hung down in back. hare pocket: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) United King- hat body: Hat blank. dom. Large pocket inside skirt of a shooting jacket. hat screw: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Romantic haren stof: Holland. Haircloth. (1815–1840 C.E.). Tool used to stretch a man’s hat. harem-hem skirt: (20th century). Soft hem, imitating hata: 1. Ireland. Hat. 2. Japan. Loom. the look of bloomers. hatakape: India. A sleeveless barabundi. harir asli: Palestine. Pure plain silk for women’s hatere: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Term for attire. and men’s headcloths. hathisondaka: India. An antariya worn in elephant- harir nabati: 1. Palestine. Imported, imitation silk fab- trunk style. ric. 2. Israel. Artificial silk. hatt: Sweden. Hat. hariry: See lasoa. hatta: 1. See kafiyyeh. 2. Sweden. Generic term for hat. helmet cap 133 hattah: Palestine. Man’s square head cloth of cotton, heafod-clap: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). United silk, and wool. Kingdom. Headcloth. Worn by religious women in hattan: Japan. Twilled silk. 13th century. hatte: Sri Lanka. Woman’s short sleeved, midriff length, heafod-gewaede: Byzantine and Romanesque (400– fitted jacket or blouse. 1200 C.E.). United Kingdom. Women’s headdress, hatter’s plush: Silk or rabbit plush used to cover men’s probably a veil. hats. healsbēag: See mene. haube: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Germany. Coif. healsed: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). 2. Germany. Bonnet. United Kingdom. Cloth for head or neck. haubergeon: Early Gothic (1200– heart-breaker: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Woman’s 1350 C.E.). France. Introduced long lock that corresponded to men’s love lock. c1340, mailed version of the hau- heather: Purplish blue. berk that reached to mid-thigh. heaume: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Large, heavy Worn over the hoqueton. helmet. hauberjet: Woolen fabric. heavy swell: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- hauberk: Early Gothic (1200–1350 dom. In 1860s, ultra-fashionable gentleman. C.E.). Shirt of mail. hechtgrau: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In the 1860s, a haubergeon haubert à maille double: See hau- pike gray fabric made from 50% natural wool and Dover Publications bert doublier. 50% blue wool. haubert clavey de double maille: hectorean: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Man’s hairstyle See haubert doublier. with short hair combed toward the back in curls. haubert doublier: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. hedbo embroidery: Denmark. Cutwork embroidery. Mail with two rings used for ordinary mail. hed-clap: See heden. hau‘ina: United States of America. Hawaii. Tapa sa- heden: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). rong. United Kingdom. Garment of fur, leather or sheep- hauketon: See acton. skin, worn by monks. In 10th and 11th centuries, it ha‘ula: United States of America. Hawaii. Reddish. was sometimes hooded. ha‘ula‘ula: United States of America. Hawaii. Pink. hedgehog hairdo: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). hault collet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. High Woman’s hairstyle cut short in front, frizzed, and collar. worn high on head. First appeared in 1778. Particu- hausse col: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Crescent larly popular with the Macaronis. shaped piece of metal worn to protect the throat. 2. hedvábí: Czechoslovakia. Silk. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan (1550– heer: India. A term used for floss silk in western India. 1625 C.E.). Padded hip roll. heerpauke: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Germany. hausse cul: See hausse col. Heavily padded, round breeches. haustuch: Switzerland. Homespun fabric. héfú: China. Kimono. haut de forme: France. Top hat. hei: China. Black. haut-de-chausses: See trunk hose. hei jiao chou: China. Black gummed silk. haute couture: France. High fashion. heiyanjìng: China. . havane: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. In 1861, heko-: Japan. Wide sash worn wrapped around the light coffee color. waist two or three times and tied in back. havanese embroidery: Buttonhole embroidery worked helaka: See sambelatra. on heavy fabric. Helanca: Two-way stretch elastic fabric. havannah: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1860, brown- Helen cap: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Cap worked ish olive green. on honeycomb netting. Named for Grand Duchess havelock: Lightweight fabric cover for military hat, Helen, sister-in-law of the emperor of Russia. long in back to protect the neck. heliotrope: Purple blue tint. haze: Very light spray of a color. hellviolet: Germany. Mauve. hazel: Color of a brown hazelnut. helm: Military helmet made of leather or metal. hè: China. Brown. helmet: See helm. he‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Blood red. helmet cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 headrail: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s day cap shaped Veil or headdress. like a helmet. It was usually made of strips of lace head-side: The lower, often scalloped, edge of a lace and embroidery and tied under the chin with rib- border. bons. 134 helmet hat helmet hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Hercules braid: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced Often worn at the seaside, a fabric hat with helmet- ca. 1850, narrow black or white braid from one-half shaped crown and narrow brim. to four inches in width. hema-netrapata: India. A golden yellow silk. heremzi: Palestine. Silk taffeta in red, green, yellow, hemasutra: India. Necklace made of gold chain with orange, or purple. It is 18–22 cm wide. Used for deco- one precious stone. rative patchwork on women’s coats. hemavaikaksha: India. Two long wreaths of flowers or here-pād: United Kingdom. Old English word for a coat pearls worn crossed on the chest. Mostly commonly of mail. worn by women. herigaute: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. hembras: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Eyes (to Housse worn open at sides with hanging sleeves. go with hooks). herlot: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). String used to tie hemd: Holland. Shirt. hose to paltock or sleeve to armseye. Hemd: Germany. Shirt. hermelijn: Holland. Ermine. Hemde: Germany. Shirt. Hermelin: Germany. Ermine. hemelsblauw: Holland. Azure. hermine: France. Ermine. hemepe: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Hermione: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, shawl- United Kingdom. Worn by monks, sleeved shirt. shaped taffeta mantelet trimmed with fringe. hemeÞe: See serc. hernani: Grenadine woven with silk warp and wool Hemidi: Germany. Old High German word for shirt. weft. hemispherical hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Heroldsrock: Germany. Tabard. Kingdom. Worn in 1850s and 1860s, man’s hard felt heron: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, grayish bowl shaped hat with flat narrow brim. By 1858, it drab color. had a knob on the crown. See also bollinger. Herrenhut: Germany. Trilby. hemming: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). herrenhutte: See ritterhute. United Kingdom. Rawhide sandal or boot. herreruelo: See ferreruelo. hendira: See hiyyak. herrete: See clavos. hengjehuva: Norway. Literally “hanging cap,” wom- herringbone: Irregular twill weave giving a zigzag effect. an’s old linen or cotton linen. herset: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Cornelian (used for henke: See heuke. amulets). Henley boater: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United Hershey bars: (1950–1960 C.E.). United States of Amer- Kingdom. In 1894, a blue or drab felt hat shaped like ica. Nickname for the Army’s overseas service bars a boater. worn on the right cuff. : Short-sleeved, collarless, knit shirt with a hertevel: Holland. Deerskin. neckband and front button placket. hessian: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) henna: Egypt. Dye from the shrub which creates a red to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). orange dye. Man’s black leather short rid- hennin: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Cone- or steeple- ing boots that were calf high in shaped women’s headdress, commonly worn with a back and curved up to point in veil. front below the kneecap end- henri deux cape: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Wom- ing in a tassel. Top edge was an’s cape with square yoke. sometimes bound in colored Henrietta cloth: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Fine, leather. 2. Rough hemp or jute twill weave fabric with silk warp and worsted weft, and hemp blend fabric used similar to a fine cashmere. for sacking. See also burlap. Henrietta glace: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, silk hessian boot: See hessian. warp varnished board fabric made by Bradford Mills. het: Wales. Hat. Henrietta jacket: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Three- hetchi pansu: United States of quarter length, loose jacket in deep color. It was lined America. Hawaii. Japanese in quilted satin or merv. term for boys’ pants with but- Henriette hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in tonholes at the waist through 1862, woman’s low crowned, small brimmed, straw which buttons attached to the hat trimmed with bands and folds of blue velvet. shirt were buttoned. Hentzen: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. Mit- heuke: Early Gothic (1200–1350 hessian boot ten gauntlets. C.E.) to Renaissance (1450– See also photospread heqat and nekhekh: See crook and flail. 1550 C.E.). Germany. Semi- (Foot and Legwear). Hispania 135

circular cloak worn gathered at the shoulder where : Greek. Rectangular shawl with weighted it was clasped or buttoned. It was worn lower on left corners worn by philosophers over the left shoulder than on right. leaving the right arm free. Worn by married women heume: France. Helmet. as a shawl. Natural wool colored, white, brown, heuz: France. Breton for boot. black, scarlet, crimson, or purple. Often embroidered. heuze: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to himmelblau: Germany. Azure. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Tall leather thick soled Himmutsatha: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew boots in various heights. man’s red tunic. hevilla: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Buckle. himru: India. An intricately woven brocade with cotton hezaam: Arabia. Long woolen sash. for the warp. hezam: Morocco. Stiff, wide belt of gold embroidered hinaka: See hainaka. velvet. hinaka ‘a‘i: See hainaka ‘a‘i. Hibernian embroidery: Satin and purl stitch embroi- hinaka paeke: See hainaka pa‘eke. dery done in colors on silk, velvet, or net. hinarunaru: New Zealand. Maori term for poor quality Hibernian vest: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 weaving. C.E.). United States of America. Short jacket or spen- hingghi: Indonesia. Man’s warp ikat garments woven cer of velvet trimmed with fur. in pairs. One is worn wrapped around the hips, the hickory: Blue or brown and white striped, twill weave other as a shawl. cotton shirting. hinggi: Sumba. Large blankets worn in pairs. One is hickory shirting: See hickory. worn as a sarong, the other as a shoulder wrap. hidarimae: Japan. The right, overlapping panel of the hinggi kombu: Sumba. Man’s ikat shawl. kimono. hiogi: Japan. A folding fan made of thin slats of Japa- hidim: See qumbaz. nese cypress wood. hidim al-khal: Palestine. Coat of white silk presented hi‘ohi‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. Bright red by the groom to the bride’s maternal uncle. Literally color. “the uncle’s coat.” hip bags: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1883, hieu-phuc: Vietnam. Mourning clothes. slang phrase for pannier folds. See also curtain drap- highlows: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Bustle ery. (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn in the hip buttons: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Bustle country, men’s calf-high leather boots that laced up (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Pair of buttons the front. In the 19th century, they were shorter, only found at top of a back vent in a man’s jacket. ankle high, and more elegant. hip huggers: Pant with waistline dropped two to three hi-goza: See ki-gomo. inches below the natural waist. : 1. Palestine. Amulet. 2. Literally “curtain” or hip spring: Ideal hip measurement minus waist mea- “cover,” a Muslim woman’s traditional head cover- surement (9- to 13-inch difference). ing. 3. Modest Muslim style of dress. Hippolita: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, wom- hijo marstiogutoguan: Indonesia. A circular cloth used an’s scarf-shaped moiré antique mantle. Had lace in the birth rites. trimmed single flounce with hollow pleats. Trimmed hikeshi hanten: Japan. Thick fireman’s jacket. with embossed velvet. hikoni: United States of America. Hawaii. Tattoo on the hipsters: (1960–1970 C.E.). Hip-hugging pants. forehead of an outcast. hiranya: India. Gold. hiladillo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Ferret. hiranyan atkan: India. A mantle adorned with gold. hilador: Ecuador and Guatemala. Spinner. hiranya-sraj: India. A gold garland. hilar: Ecuador and Guatemala. To spin. hirauchi: Japan. Woman’s ornamental hairpin. hilda: Twill weave fabric with cotton warp and alpaca hire: Japan. A lower-class person’s ebosi. weft. Used for linings. hirivastra: See haryani. hili ha: United States of America. Hawaii. A four strand hirosode: Japan. Wide sleeved kimono. braid. hiro-tana: See furoshiki. hili pa ha: See hili ha. hiscu: Bolivia. Sandals. hili pa kolu: United States of America. Hawaii. A three Hispania: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1854, Span- strand braid. ish cloak where right front folded over left. It was hilo: Spain. Thread. trimmed with striped velvet galoon. 2. In 1856, Himalaya carreau: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Very woman’s half-circle cloak with semicircular yoke. large check with shaggy half-inch line of long up- It had a box-pleated flounce and was trimmed with standing hairs. tufted plush and fringe. 136 historical shirt historical shirt: Charles I and the Commonwealth hoge hoed: Holland. Top hat. (1625–1660 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). hoge laars: Holland. Jackboot. Man’s shirt embroidered in religious subjects. hoge toneelschoen: Holland. Cothurnus. hitai-ebosi: Japan. A triangular piece of black silk cloth hoge zijden: Holland. Opera hat. secured to the forehead by strings. hoggers: Plowman’s boots. hitatare: Japan. A ceremonial costume of the samurai. hohos: Indonesia. Belt worn by a high-status person. hitoe: Japan. Unlined garment. hoi nong hu: (1900–1910 C.E.). United States of Amer- hitta-zome: Japan. A type of dapple dyeing. ica. Chinese Hawaiian term for a child’s pair of trou- hive: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Early Georgian sers with the seam from the crotch point to the back (1700–1750 C.E.). High-crowned, hive-shaped, plaited waist left open. straw hat with little or no brim. hoju: Japan. A pearl design often shown with flames. hiyoku: Japan. An underkimono. hok see hai: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of hiyyak: Morocco. Woolen material worn as a cloak. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for Chinese-style hizam: Palestine. Man’s sash. shoes. hlace: Croatia and Serbia. Trousers. hokua: United States of America. Hawaii. Nape of the hlače: See pantalone. neck. H-line: (1950–1960 C.E.). United States of America. hol: Cambodia. Silk weft ikat fabric. Introduced by Dior in 1954, with slight holán: Mexico. Ruffle of heavily starched lace or tulle flare to hem. that is worn at the hem of a woman’s skirt. ho: Japan. A nobleman’s formal court robe. holanda: Spain. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Fine hoa cà: Vietnam. Lilac colored. linen. hoa tai: Vietnam. Earring. Holbein work: Outline embroidery in double running hoakakala: United States of America. Hawaii. Bracelet stitch. of the tusks of a hog or a dog. holbi: Norway. Border added to the bottom edge of a hoàng-bò: Vietnam. Imperial robe. skirt. hoàng-ngoc: Vietnam. Topaz. holei: United States of America. Hawaii. Imported yel- : (1910–1920 C.E.). low dotted cloth. Very narrow skirt that tapered holland: Fine, plain weave linen fabric. at the hem, making walking dif- Holland cloth: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Res- ficult. toration (1660–1700 C.E.). Holland. Fine white linen hock see hai: Crinoline (1840– lawn used for mourning caps and cuffs. 1865 C.E.). United States of Amer- Holland shade cloth: Plain weave linen fabric with a ica. Chinese Hawaiian term for finish that made it opaque. the front of men’s white pigskin- lace: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Res- soled shoes. toration (1660–1700 C.E.). Church lace in hollie stitch hod: Byzantine and Romanesque with religious designs. (400–1200 C.E.). United Kingdom. hollie stitch: Type of buttonhole stitch. Hood, similar to monk’s cowl. hollmes: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 : Scotland. Woven fabric C.E.). Fustian. of undyed wool fleeces. hollow lace: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- hodnhue: See hodnhuva. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Braid lace used for edging. hodnhuva: Norway. Literally hollow-cut velveteen: Velveteen with pile cut into de- “horned cap,” starched cotton signs. cap. holly point: Very close needlepoint. hodootl’izh: See dootl’izh. Hollywood gauze: Rayon made in a leno hodtrene: Renaissance (1450–1550 weave. C.E.). Curtain or lappets at back holoku: United States of America. Hawaii. 1. Loose, of a hood. sewn dress with a train and a yoke. It is based on the hoed: Holland. Hat. missionaries’ Mother Hubbards. 2. Cloak; cape. hoedeband: Holland. Hatband. holomu: United States of America. Hawaii. Long, fitted hoepelrok: Holland. Crinoline. dress. hoesaek: Korea. Gray. holy point: See holly point. hobble skirt hœtt: United Kingdom. Old Eng- Hombourg: France. Homburg. See also photospread lish word for hat. hombrera: 1. Spain. Shoulder pad. 2. Ecuador. The yoke (Women's Wear). hofkledij: Holland. Court dress. of a blouse. hounds ears 137

homburg: Bustle (1865–1890 hop-pada: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). C.E.). Man’s stiff felt hat with ta- United Kingdom. Literally “hoop-shaped,” wide pered and creased crown, rolled outer garment. Possibly for ecclesiastical use only. brim, and grosgrain ribbon. hopsack: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Coarse woolen Made fashionable by the Prince serge-canvas. of Wales. hopsacking: Coarse, plain weave fabric of cotton, linen, homespun: 1. Loose, rough woolen or rayon. fabric in a plain or twill weave. 2. hoqueton: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Snug padded Crude fabric of cotton, linen, jute, tunic worn as part of parade uniforms. Often deco- homburg or blends. rated with gold and gems. homongi: Japan. A visiting kimono worn for special horitti: Korea. Belt. occasions. horloger: France. Clock and watch maker. honan: China. From Honan, a wild silk fabric that dyes hörr: See lin. uniformly. horrō: Ethiopia. Fringe of beads worn over the chest. hondorgo: Hungary. Bell-shaped skirt that covers the horsehair petticoat: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). ankles. Spain. Linen farthingale stiffened with horsehair. 2. honeycomb: Textured fabric woven to resemble a hon- Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Another name for crino- eycomb. line petticoat. honeycomb cloth: Weave used in toweling. Hortense mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United hóng: China. Red. Kingdom. 1. Introduced in 1849, woman’s three- hòng-bào: Vietnam. Red mantle; ruby. quarter length mantle with falling collar and square, hong-ngoc: Vietnam. Ruby. fringed waist-length cape. Named for Queen hongreline: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. Hortense. 2. In 1854, round mantelet with rounded Jacket favored by coachmen. points. Beneath the points was a ruffle of vandyked hongsaek: Korea. Red. Brussels net. Deep fall of lace was under the net. hóngyànyàn: China. Brilliant red. horu: New Zealand. Maori term for the red ochre used Honiton lace: Elaborate bobbin lace. in . Honiton point: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, imita- Horus lock: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Braid of false tion lace with design outlined in silk. hair worn behind the right ear by fashionable honkar-ki-kalangi: India. Long crested cylindrical women. plume of gold or silver worn on top of the turban. hosa: 1. Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). Snug leg covering. 2. hoo: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of America. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United Chinese Hawaiian term for pantaloons. Kingdom. Covering for lower leg and probably hoo geok kwun: See dai seong siu kwun. the foot also. Possibly leather boot. 3. Norway. Old hoo tau dai: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of Norse word for hosiery. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a belt. Hosa: Germany. Old High German term for hosiery. hood: Mushroom-shaped, unblocked hat blank. hosan: Wales. Hose. hoofdband: Holland. Headband. hose: See strømpe. hoofddoek: Holland. Handkerchief. hoseaux: See heuze. hoofdtooi: Holland. Headdress. See also kapsel. hose-bend: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 hooftijsertgen: Holland. A re- C.E.). United Kingdom. Band worn around the leg, gional headdress, similar to a probably to secure the hosa. . Commonly made of hosen: See breeches. lace, the cap has a round base Hosen: Germany. Trousers. and two rounded brim pieces, Hosenrock: Germany. Pantskirt. creating a heart shaped frame hoso-zome: Japan. Fine-line dyeing in a spider-web for the face. design. hoop petticoat: Late Georgian hot pants: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of America. hooftijsertgen (1750–1790 C.E.). United King- Extremely brief shorts. dom. Term for panniers. hottr: Norway. Old word for hat. hoover apron: (1910–1920 C.E.). United States of Amer- hòugen: China. Heel of a shoe or sock. ica. Worn from 1914 to 1927, a wraparound, sleeved hòujin: China. Back of a Chinese robe or jacket. apron that originated during World War I in the hounds ears: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United Food Administration. Later, it was popularized for Kingdom. In use from 1660s to 1680s, popular word home wear. for large coat cuffs fashionable at the time. 138 check

houndstooth check: Broken twill weave resembling a huaaca: See huayaca. four pointed star. huabù: China. Cotton print. hounscot say: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1891, a huádaní: China. Gabardine. rough woolen serge-canvas. huaduan: China. Figured satin; brocade. houppe: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). huáibiao: China. Pocket watch. France. Twelfth-century term for a tassel. huaka: Bolivia. Belt. houppelande: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Loose, huali: Peru. Full skirt that is gathered at the waist. large robe with wide, flaring sleeves and a tall collar, huallas: Bolivia. Mantle used for marriage ceremonies. the carcaille, worn by both genders. Usually made of huallquepo: Bolivia. Coca bag. a rich fabric. huanaco: See guanaco. houppelande à mi-jambe: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). huang ma qua: China. Yellow riding jacket awarded France. Early version of the haincelin. for bravery. houppelande courte: See haincelin. huángcàncn: China. Bright yellow. houri-coat: Turkey. Kimono-like coat. : Mexico. Sandal woven of strips of leather, usu- : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. ally in a light color, and sometimes with a heel strap. Worn from 1877 on, woman’s plain trained princess huarizo: Soft fur of an animal that is a cross between a robe worn without corsets. By 1890, became the llama and an alpaca. teagown. huayaca: Bolivia. Bag used to carry foodstuffs. household linen embroidery: White thread on white hūba: Germany. Old word for hood. fabric embroidery. Hubbard cloth: Trade name for water repellent cotton housemaid skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- fabric. dom. Introduced in 1884, plain skirt with five or six huccatoon: United Kingdom. Dyed cotton fabric made tucks near the hem. Worn at home by young women. in Manchester for export to the United States. housse: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Long, huckaback: Absorbent cotton or linen fabric used for wide, sleeveless wrap or shawl, open at both sides towels. and buttoned down the front or an outer garment huckaback embroidery: Darned embroidery done on with wide, short sleeves. huckaback toweling. houta: Bulgaria. Apron. Hudson Bay coat: Canada. Coat made from a Hudson houtje-touwtje-jas: See monty-coat. Bay blanket, a woolen blanket woven with wide con- houve: See huvet. trasting stripes. hovdatyet: Norway. Woman’s headcloth. hue: Denmark. Hat. how: Scotland. Hood or cap. hueco de la manga: Spain. Armseye. howling bags: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Slang term huepilli: Mexico. Sleeveless blouse or cotton cloth with for trousers in a loud patterned fabric. an opening for the head worn by women. Style inher- howve: See huvet. ited from the Aztecs. hoxter: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Slang term for inside hù’er: China. Earflaps; earmuffs. pocket of a coat. hufá: Iceland. Worn by women, a beret-style cap of hraegel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). black velvet surmounted by an etched gold cylinder United Kingdom. Term meaning a garment or through which is drawn a stout cord ending in a long clothes. Used for both genders. black tassel. hraelung: See hraegel. hufa: Norway. Old word for cap. hring: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). hufe: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United Kingdom. Ring, brooch, or neck-ring. United Kingdom. Hat. hringofinn serkr: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Ice- hug-me-tight: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle land. Shirt woven with ring mail. (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn from 1850 hringr: Norway. Old Norse word for finger ring. to 1867, hand-knitted or cro- hrœgl: See clāpes. cheted jacket with cape-like hrycg-hraedel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 sleeves. C.E.). United Kingdom. Garment, probably a cloak hugue: Byzantine and Roman- worn by both genders. Literally “back-cloth.” esque (400–1200 C.E.). Wom- hsia-pei: China. Ch’ing dynasty. Calf-length vest worn an’s short sleeveless tunic. by Han brides. Huguenot lace: Romantic (1815– hua: Laos and Thailand. Waistband sewn to upper edge 1840 C.E.). Imitation lace on a of woman’s skirt. muslin net ground on which hua yu: China. Peacock feathers. cutouts are sewn. hug-me-tight hunting necktie 139 hui yi: China. Song dynasty. Empress’s dark blue gown humeral: Ecclesiastical dress. Veil or scarf worn around ornamented with gold pheasants. It was trimmed the shoulders by Roman Catholic clergy during the with red bands decorated with clouds and dragons. High Mass. It was descended from the chaperon. Worn with the phoenix crown. hum-hum: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United huicó: Mexico. Zoque Indian term for thread. States of America. Coarse cotton fabric from India huif: Holland. Coif. used to line garments from 1750 to 1770. huik: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration hummums: See hum-hum. (1660–1700 C.E.). Flemish mantle that late in the humu: United States of America. Hawaii. To sew. century was combined with a felt hat with a tuft on humu kaulahao: United States of America. Hawaii. top. Chain stitch. huila kaulike: United States of America. Hawaii. Disc humu puka pihi: United States of America. Hawaii. wheel of a sewing machine. Buttonhole stitch. huipil: Guatemala and Mexico. humuhumu ulana: United States of America. Hawaii. Woman’s long blouse made from To darn. four widths of fabric with a head- hùmùjìng: China. Goggles. hole. humuka: United States of America. Hawaii. Cross- huipil grande: Mexico. Huipil stitching. with the neck and lower edges humulau: United States of America. Hawaii. To em- huipil trimmed with lace flounces. Worn broider. with sleeves hanging in front and humupa‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Lock stitch. behind. humuwili: United States of America. Hawaii. Overcast- huipil ranciado: Guatemala. ing stitch. Woman’s blouse woven in jaspé. hunakana‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Tapa huipile con labor: Mexico. Worn with white and yellow dots. by the Zoque Indians, huipiles Hungarian cord: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Fashionably with an embroidered design. worn in 1867 and 1868, silk cord on the border of a huipilli: Mexico. Aztec term for trained skirt instead of the conventional braid. a huipil. Hungarian embroidery: Hungary. Flat- or stain-stitch huipil grande huka pihi: United States of Amer- embroidery done on peasant garments that is char- ica. Hawaii. Buttonhook. acterized by its bright colors. huke: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Tabard Hungarian vest: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 with front and back panels and occasionally with C.E.). Woman’s high collared, long sleeved jacket sleeves that was often worn belted. 2. Renaissance made with a scarf-like piece hanging from the left (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). shoulder and crossing in the back to meet the belt. Spain. Long veil that covered the female wearer to Hungarian wrap: Directoire and First Empire (1790– the knees or ankles. Evolved into the mantilla. 3. 1815 C.E.). United States of America. Introduced in Malta. Long, black, cloth cloak of Moorish origin. 1809, a fashionable loose velvet cloak lined with silk hukjinju: Korea. Black pearl. and worn wrapped around the body. hukkō: Ethiopia. Cap of skin. hungback: Scotland. Lightweight tweed coat fabric. hul: Netherlands. Woman’s winged cap of white lace Hungerland band: Charles I and the Commonwealth and embroidery. Worn only on special occasions. (1625–1660 C.E.). Woman’s collar made of Hunger- saki: Nigeria. Tall domed cap of handwoven cot- land lace. ton. It is lined with shirting. Hungerland lace: Charles I and the Commonwealth hula skirt: United States of America. Hawaiian grass (1625–1660 C.E.). Type of lace made at Halle in the skirt. Hungarian style. hule: Spain. Oilcloth. hung-phuc: Vietnam. Mourning clothes. hulle: See haube. hunhuáng: China. Pale yellow. hulu: United States of America. Hawaii. Feather. hunter green: Dark, slightly yellowish green. hulu hipa: United States of America. Hawaii. Woolen hunter’s pink: Brilliant scarlet velvet used for hunting cloth. coats. huluhulu: United States of America. Hawaii. Flannel. hunting belt: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 huma huatarina: Ecuador. Quichua word for head C.E.). United Kingdom. In the 1820s, man’s whale- wrap. bone belt worn by dandies when hunting. Humboldt purple: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, hunting necktie: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- new color. dom. Worn from 1818 to 1830s, man’s very wide neck- 140 hunting stock

tie worn high on the neck with three creases on each a waistcoat. Influenced by the military uniforms of side. Ends were crossed and pinned inside the coat. the English in Egypt. hunting stock: (1890–1899 C.E.). United Kingdom. hussar point: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- Man’s large, cellular cloth necktie folded and tied dom. In 1820s, front edge of a man’s waistcoat, had twice around the neck, concealing the lack of a collar. extreme points and even curved up over the hips on Huntley bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 the sides. C.E.). Introduced in 1814, woman’s bonnet similar to Hut: Germany. Hat. a Scotch bonnet, made in twill weave plaid sarcenet Hutband: Germany. Hat band. and trimmed with a rosette and three feathers. Hutfutter: Germany. Hat lining. Huntley scarf: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Scotch tartan Hutkopf: Germany. Hat crown. scarf of silk or wool worn with ends pinned to left huttu: Timbuktu. A silver plate worn in the middle of a shoulder. woman’s forehead. Huot: Germany. Hat. huve: Late Gothic (1350–1450 hupé: See hufá. C.E.). Woman’s headdress re- hupodema: Hebrew. Sandals. sembling a tapered cornet with huque: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance a veil. (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Short flowing outer robe huvet: Late Gothic (1350–1450 worn open at sides and often edged in fur and C.E.). Hood. trimmed with embroidery or gems. Knights wore it huyèn-ðai: Vietnam. Black judo open down the front. sash. hure: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Restoration hvivklaede: Denmark. Woman’s huve (1660–1700 C.E.). 1. Shaggy hair on a man’s head. 2. linen headscarf. Cap made from animal skin with the hair left on it. hwajang: Korea. Makeup. hurluburlu: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Woman’s hwajangbok: Korea. Bathrobe. hairstyle in which short curls were worn all over the hwamunsa: Korea. Floral patterned sa silk. head. hwangsaek: Korea. Yellow. hurlupe: See hurluburlu. hwap’o: Korea. Canvas. hurricane cloth: Plied combed Egyptian cotton for hwitel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). luxury rainwear. United Kingdom. Piece of fabric, probably rectan- huru kurii: Australia. Maori’s dogskin cloak made from gular, used as a cloak. Originally of undyed fabric whole skins. (literally “white”). Worn by both genders. huruhuru: See kaka hu kura. hyacinth: Medium lavender. húsè: China. Light green. hyanggap norigae: Korea. Accessories with perfume huso: Ecuador and Guatemala. Spindle. cases. hussar boots: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 hyangsu: Korea. Perfume. C.E.) to Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Hyde Park bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– Worn from 1800 to 1820s, man’s civilian boot style 1815 C.E.). Very fashionable in 1812, white satin bon- that reached the calf with slight point in front. Some- net trimmed with four white ostrich plumes. times had turnover tops and was shod in iron. hydrotobolic hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s hat Hussar buskins: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 with a ventilated crown made with a small hole in C.E.). Knee-high boots with a heart-shaped peak at the center protected with wire gauze. the center front, often decorated with a central tassel. hyire: Ghana. White earth used as makeup. hussar jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- hymo: Mohair and linen fabric used to reinforce body dom. Braided and frogged jacket that was worn with of coat. I

iakepi: United States of America. Hawaii. Jasper. ihu kama‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. The toe iall: Ireland. Gaelic word for ribbon. area of shoes. iallachrann: Ireland. Gaelic word for shoes. ihupuni: Australia. Maori’s dogskin cloak decorated iar: Ireland. Gaelic word for black. with strips of black hair. iar-dhonn: Ireland. Gaelic word for brownish black. iie: Romania. Woman’s smock. iasepi: See iakepi. ijara: India. A tapering pajama. ibante: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s triangular loincloth. ijarbund: India. Pajama waist cord. ibobirin: Nigeria. Yoruba woman’s six yard wrapper ijzergrauw: Holland. Iron gray. than hangs from breasts to calf. ikan: Japan. A man’s informal court costume. iborun: Nigeria. Yoruba woman’s veil. ikar-hay: Tuareg. A woman’s headcloth. ibrisimidzís: Greece. Silk worker. ikat: 1. Variety of chiné silk fabrics made in Java, Suma- iç tuman: Iran. Woman’s printed cotton petticoat. tra, etc. 2. See kasuri. 3. The resist-dyeing process in Iceland wool: Iceland. Lustrous wool produced in Ice- which designs are preserved in warp or weft by tying land. off small bundles of yarns to prevent dyeing. ichcahuipilli: Mexico. Aztec warrior’s tunic of quilted iket: Java. Man’s headcloth. cotton cloth. See also xicolli. ikhdari: Palestine. Silk fabric with narrow red and ichcatl: Mexico. Aztec term for white cotton. green bands on a floral pattern. ichella: Chile. Woman’s long, fringed, woolen shawl. ikori: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s deep cylindrical hat. ichi-dome: Japan. Woman’s hairpin. ilaam: Zaire. General term for clothes. Ichimatsu: Japan. A checkered pattern named for the ilbora: See irbora. actor Sadokawa Ichimatsu. ilhó: Portugal. Eyelet. Ida canvas: Open mesh fabric used for embroidery. ‘ili: United States of America. Hawaii. Leather. ‘ie: Samoa. Cloth. ‘ili hinuhinu: United States of America. Hawaii. Patent ‘ie mafiafia: Samoa. Canvas. leather. ‘ie valavala: Samoa. Cheesecloth. ‘ili kuapo: United States of America. Hawaii. Belt. ‘ie-tonga: Polynesia. A six foot by five foot mat worn as ‘ili pale o kama‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. a loincloth. Then ends are fringed and trimmed with The sole of shoes. a border of red feathers. ‘ili pipi: United States of America. Hawaii. Leather; igaal: United Arab Emirates. Head circlet used to hold cowhide. the ghoutra in place. ilic: Bulgaria. Man’s brown or red vest. igbiri: Ekine word for an ankle circlet of locust beans. ‘ilio-hulu-papale: United States of America. Hawaii. igla: Croatia, Poland, Russia, and Serbia. Needle. Literally “hat-fur dog,” the beaver. igne oyasi: Turkey. Finely worked needle lace made us- illusion: Very fine, sheer tulle or net. ing crochet stitches and beadwork. imbecile: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). 1. Worn from 1815 ihenga: India. Woman’s short skirt. to 1835, woman’s very full sleeve with horizontal ihram: 1. Combination of two white cotton wraps, one folds from elbow to wrist. 2. Worn from 1829 to 1835, for the loin and one for the back, worn by the Mo- woman’s very full day sleeve that gathered onto a hammedan on pilgrimage to Mecca. 2. See ghoutra. cuff at the wrist.

141 142 îmbrăca

îmbrăca: Romania. To clothe or to dress. Directoire. îmbrăcăminte: Romania. Clothing. incwado: Rhodesia. Ndebele term for a penis sheath. Imogen: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, silk mantle indaco: Italy. Indigo. with two deeply pointed flounces edged with passe- indanthrene dye: Kind of . menterie. inde: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). To be imperatrice: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1862, azure colored. woman’s cravat bow. 2. In 1862, shade of blue. inderlins: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late imperial: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Small beard, Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Germany. Coarse hemp commonly worn with a waxed moustache. Begun by fabric from Hamburg. Napoleon III. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Loose, indhoni: India. A padded ring worn on a woman’s fly-front paletot overcoat. 3. Early Gothic (1200–1350 head to help her balance a load carried thereon. C.E.). Gold-figured silk fabric introduced to Great India chintz: Chintz with large floral pattern. Britain from Greece or the Orient. India cloth: Short staple, low grade cotton. Imperial: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, bias-cut India cotton: Heavy figured chintz used in upholstery. mantle with heavy embroidery and a deep fringe. India linen: Fine, cotton lawn woven in imitation of Imperial gold: (1930–1940 C.E.). A new color. linen. It is slightly sized and usually bleached. imperial : Heavy, ribbed bengaline. India muslin: India. Fine, soft, plain weave, cotton imperial sateen: Satin weave, heavy cotton fabric. fabric. imperial serge: Soft, worsted, twill weave fabric. India print: Plain weave cotton print with hand-blocked imperial valley cotton: United States of America. Cot- Oriental pattern. ton grown in California. India shawl: Expensive East Indian shawl, usually of imperial velvet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in figured or embroidered cashmere. 1870, fabric of equal width stripes of corded silk and India silk: India. Soft, plain weave, silk fabric. velvet. Indian: 1. Drawn muslin lace or muslin fabric. 2. Ro- impilayoth: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew socks mantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Green. or felt shoes. Indian dimity: Sheer, corded cotton fabric. impilia: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Socks or felt Indian embroidery: Any characteristic Oriental design shoes. worked by East Indian natives. impiraperle: Italy. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In the 1880s, Indian gown: See Indian nightgown. a woman who strung beads for a living. Indian green: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Shade of impiraressa: See impiraperle. green. improver: See dress improver. Indian head: Trade name for plain weave cotton fabric imurluc: Hungary. Wide mantle of natural color with a with soft finish. large collar which can be buttoned to the hood. It is Indian lamb: Fur of the caracul group. richly embroidered with spirals and circles. Indian lawn: Light cotton muslin. in: Romania. Flax. Indian necktie: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United in the gray: Natural fabric in the undyed state. Kingdom. Man’s muslin cravat, the ends of which inaka yuzen: Japan. Country yuzen. were secured in front with a sliding ring. inar: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Fit- Indian nightgown: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late ted, sleeveless jacket. 2. See fūan. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). 1. Synonym for the ban- încalţa minte: See gheată. yan. 2. Woman’s negligee. incarnat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, carnation red. Indian rubber: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Patented in incarnate: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Red. 1823. Incroyable: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, wom- Indian work: See Indian. an’s silk-lined cloth pardessus with a fitted body. The : France. Bandanna. full skirt was pleated at the hip. The pagoda sleeves : Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian were slit to above the elbow. It was trimmed with (1750–1790 C.E.). Any painted or printed India muslin. galloon. indigo: 1. Most precious dye, a deep purple red. 2. Red- incroyable bows: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in dish blue color. 1889, a number of large bows of lace and mousselaine Indigoblau: Germany. Indigo blue. de soie worn at the throat of Directoire costumes. indispensible: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 incroyable coat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in C.E.) to Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. 1889, woman’s long tailcoat with wide lapels. Worn Used from 1800 to around 1820, small square or with lace jabot and waistcoat in the afternoon, it lozenge-shaped handbag of silk or velvet with a draw- was designed to imitate the swallow-tail look of the string top and worn hanging from the arm on a ribbon. Irish work 143 indlugula: Rhodesia. Ndebele term for a warrior’s os- side seam. Often sleeveless in 1880s. Developed over- trich feather headdress. sized armseyes in 1890s. indrachchhanda: India. Necklace of 1,008 strings of Inverness skirts: Scotland. The four pointed flaps pearls. which fall from the Highland doublet. Each flap is induere: See vestire. trimmed with lace and three buttons. indumentum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Any gar- invisible zipper: closing fastener designed so that ment. no part of the fastener shows when closed. indusium: See tunica interior. io: New Zealand. Maori word for warp. ineffibles: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). One of many ionar: Ireland. Short jacket worn over the leine. The euphemisms for breeches or trousers. sleeves were slit on the underside to allow the leine iner: Romania. Finger ring. sleeves to show. inexpressibles: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). One of ionaradh: Ireland. Gaelic word for clothing. many euphemisms for breeches or trousers. Ionian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s infectore: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Dyer of fleece wool. narrow scarf with two deep flounces. It was trimmed infula: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Scarf-like band with satin puffing. of red and white wool worn tied around the head Ionic chiton: Greek (3000–100 as a sign of religious . 2. Ecclesiastical B.C.E.). Evolved by 600 B.C.E., dress. Tab at back of a bishop’s miter. See also vexil- extra wide chiton of a thin lum. woolen, linen, or gauze. Sewn ingenue: Yellowish green. together down the right side and injo chinju: Korea. Artificial pearl. pinned or buttoned at intervals injogyonsa: Korea. Rayon. down the arms. Very long, often ink gray: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, nearly black gray. worn trailing. It had an overfold inkin: 1. Japan. Imported Chinese fabric. 2. Japan. Ki- at the waist, a kolpos. mono decoration of lacquer imprinted with gold leaf ioring: See kwigoi. or gold dust. ipingea: See imurluc. inkle: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Romantic (1815– ipingeaua: See chepeneag. Ionic chiton 1840 C.E.). Wool or linen tape, usually colored, used ipsiboe: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in 1823, as a cheap binding or trim by the lower classes. yellowish beige. inner spring: Second busk underneath the busk, re- irbora: Ethiopia. Armlet worn by a man who has killed quired in a very tight corset. an elephant or an enemy. inro: Japan. Medicine box suspended from the obi. irdan: Palestine. Wide pointed sleeves. insertion: Narrow lace with plain edge so it may be set irege: See kamozi. into fabric. Irene Castle bob: (1910–1920 C.E.). Loosely waved, insole: Inner or inside sole of shoe. off-the-forehead women’s hairstyle named for the instita: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Piece of fabric fas- dancer, Irene Castle. tened under lower belt of to form train in back. irengan: Indonesia. Blue and brown fabric worn by intaglio: Sunken or hollowed design in hard material, widows. like a gem. iricinium: See ricinium. intarsia: Design knitted only into some sections on iris: Medium lavender blue. knitwear. Irish crochet: Ireland. Needlepoint lace with medallions interala: See tunica interior. of a rose, a shamrock, or a leaf. interfacing: Woven or non-woven fabric used between : Ireland. Variety of lace styles made in Ire- layers to reinforce and stiffen collars, cuffs, etc. land. interlining: Inner lining placed between lining and Irish lawn: Ireland. Plain weave linen fabric. outer fabric. : Ireland. Plain weave, pure linen fabric. internal high soles: China. Ming dynasty. Shoes with Irish polonaise: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United interior soles. Kingdom. Worn from 1770 to 1775, day gown with inti: Bolivia. In woven fabric, stylized diamonds sym- fitted, décolleté bodice that closed down the front, bolizing the sun. pleated overskirt that was open in the front over a intuiger: See ētim. short underskirt. Inverness: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 20th century. Irish poplin: Ireland. Poplin with silk warp and wor- Worn after 1858, man’s large, loose, knee-length sted weft. overcoat with fitted collar and long cape. In 1870s, Irish work: Ireland. White embroidery on white the cape only reached the sides where it joined the ground. 144 iron-pot iron-pot: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 Italian ferret: Narrow silk braid. C.E.). United Kingdom. Iron helmet style favored by Italian heel: Late Georgian (1750– the soldiers of Oliver Cromwell. 1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. ‘isāba: Palestine. Woman’s headband used to fasten in Small, peg-top heel that nar- place the ‘agal. rowed and then flared again Italian heel Isabeau corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- at the sole. Made of wood cov- dom. Introduced in 1846, woman’s jacket-like bodice ered in a colored kid leather, usually white or cream. for morning wear open on the bottom and trimmed Italian nightgown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). with galloon and silk buttons. Had high falling collar. United Kingdom. Worn in 1770s, woman’s semifor- Isabeau sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced mal day dress with boned, décolleté bodice, elbow- in 1860s, woman’s triangular sleeve with the point at length sleeves, a long overskirt, and a contrasting the shoulder. Used on dresses, the pardessus, and the underskirt. Overskirt could be worn hitched up like Maintenon cloak. a polonaise. Isabeau style dress: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Worn Italian polonaise: See Irish polonaise. in 1860s, day dress cut in one and fitted with goring. Italian sleeve: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.) In 1891, a It had a row of buttons or rosettes down the front. woman’s sleeve cut full to elbow and fitted to wrist. Isabella: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). The color cream. Italian slipper: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Isabella color: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United C.E.). United States of America. Worn in 1812, heel- States. Dirty white color. less, flat slipper that was cut low on the foot. isallo: Bolivia. Mantle. Italien: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1862, išānō: Ethiopia. Beads. woman’s white chip bonnet with a long green feather iscayo: 1. See isallo. 2. Bolivia. Ceremonial mantle worn around the brim. Tied under the chin with a green by chieftain’s wife. velvet crepe ribbon bow. ishdad: Palestine. Man’s sash. itar: Romania. Men’s snug white trousers worn in win- ishiwaba: Rhodesia. Ndebele term for a skin shirt worn ter. by a woman. itelli: Tuareg. The portion of veil covering the forehead. ishi-zoko: Meiji (1876–1912 C.E.). Japan. Literally “stone itsembéri: Greece. Kerchief worn over the hair. soles,” with rubber soles. itstela: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew shawl. ishkay fachalina: Ecuador. Quichua term for a wom- ityogaesi: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. A woman’s an’s headwrap. hairstyle. isi Diya: Natal. Worn by Zulu women, long untanned iuele: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to cowhide tunics. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Mid- isigula: Rhodesia. Ndebele term for a cloak. dle English word for jewel. Isir: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, cloak with iupca: Romania. Skirt. deep front yoke and box-pleated back trimmed with Ivanhoe cap: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced eight rows of narrow velvet and a very rich fringe. in 1820, popular cap named for Scott’s novel of the Isley green: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, new color. same name. ispahanis: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). ivory: White with a yellow orange tint. Fabrics made in Almeria (Spain) from the eighth to ivory stitch: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early Geor- the eleventh centuries. gian (1700–1750 C.E.). A tightly used in istalla: Bolivia. Woman’s coca bag. working a dense needle lace. istela: See itstela. iwede: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) isticharion: Biblical (unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew short- to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. sleeved jacket. Middle English term for clothing. itagbe: Ogboni. Woven by women, an intricately pat- ixcaco: See cuyuscate. terned shoulder cloth. ixtle: Mexico. Fiber from the maguey plant that is used Italiaans stro: Holland. Leghorn straw. to make rope and decorated bags. Italian cloak: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restora- ixtli: Aztec. Maguey fiber. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s short, hooded cloak. iyegbe: Nigeria. Cut pile cloth woven in Owo. It is used Italian cloth: Strong, lightweight, lustrous fabric made by chiefs as a medicine cloth. with a satin or twill weave. izār: 1. Syria. Large white or black cotton wrap worn Italian collar: Notched shawl collar with the upper by women when outside. 2. Berber word for haik. 3. edge of the notch pointed and the lower edge curved. India. Trousers. Italian cut: Short irregular bob. izār baftā: India. Bifurcated trousers. Italian farthingale: See wheel farthingale. izaree: India. Izar. izaribata 145 izaribata: Japan. Looms. iznaq: Palestine. Chain worn suspended from the sides iziketsho: Rhodesia. Ndebele term for bracelets. of a shakkeh.

J

jaatl’óól: Navajo. Earring. jackanapes: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s jabiru: Soft, almost furry plumage of stork-like bird. midriff-length, short sleeved jacket. Commonly worn jabot: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 with petticoat breeches. C.E.) to Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Elaborate tie at jacket: Short, coat-like garment, with or without sleeves. the top of a shirt. Usually opens down front, reaching below hips. jabot blouse: Blouse with jabot at collar. jacket coat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Man’s short jacket jabul: Philippine Islands. Large mantle worn by women. lined with wool. jacinth: Orange colored gemstone. Jackson shoes: See brogans. jack: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance Jacobean embroidery: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Padded military Kingdom. Embroidery characterized by a tree design doublet made of up to 30 layers of fabric, quilted and ornamented in color with flowers, fruit, and birds. fitted to the body. jaconas: See jaconet. jack boot: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Geor- jaconet: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Oversized boot that was gen- Fashionable in 1800 and after, thin cambric made in erally large enough to wear a shoe or slipper inside India for dresses and handkerchiefs. 2. Cotton fabric it. It was lined with pockets to use to carry small glazed on one side. items. It was made of jack leather, a leather coated jaconette: See jaconet. with tar or pitch. jacquard: Complex weave with intricate figured weave. jack chain: Elizabethan (1550– Jacquard velvet: Velvet woven with a cut-out or etched- 1625 C.E.) to Restoration (1660– out pile that creates a pattern. 1700 C.E.). Decorative chain of jacqueminot: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, a figure eight links that joined at rich shade of red. right angles. jacquette: See courtepy. jack leather: Elizabethan (1550– jadara: India. A white silk worn by the bride during the 1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750– marriage ceremony. 1790 C.E.). Waxed leather painted jade: Shade of green. with tar and used for boots. Jaeger underclothes: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Intro- Jack Tar suit: Bustle (1865–1890 duced in 1880s by a German doctor, Dr. Jaeger, these C.E.) to Gay Nineties (1890–1900 wool underclothes were constructed to include both C.E.). In 1880s and 1890s, boy’s the trunk and limbs. with Jack Tar trousers. jaganath: United Kingdom. Coarse, plain weave, cotton Jack Tar trousers: Bustle (1865– fabric. 1890 C.E.). In 1880s, men’s yacht- jahanaroho: India. A woman’s short petticoat. ing pants made without a side jais: France. Jet. seam that were fitted to the knee jaka: 1. Bulgaria. Collar. 2. See ogrlica. and then flared to a 22-inch cir- jalaka: India. A metallic wire gauze used in making cumference. It was made with coats of mail. jack boot whole falls. jaleco: See colête.

147 148 jalika jalika: India. Woman’s hairnet. Japanese hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. jam: United Kingdom. Child’s frock. Worn in 1867 to 1869, woman’s circular hat made jāmā: India. Long cotton garment worn by Muslims in without a crown and with a straw brim that sloped the northern areas of India. slightly downward. It was trimmed with ribbon and jāmā chakmān: India. Knee-length coat with full sleeves. tied on with a bow below the chignon. jāmāah: See jāmā. Japanese mink: Animal with short dark hair. Jamaica shorts: Mid-thigh length shorts. Japanese mocha: Glossy straw braid used to make jamawar: India. A Kashmir shawl. cheaper grades of hats. jamb: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Piece of armor for Japanese piqué: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, soft the leg. twilled cotton. jambart: See jamb. Japanese pongee: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Silk fabric jambe: See jamb. with a smooth surface. jambeau: See jamb. Japanese rose: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Rose color. jambee cane: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Man’s Japanese silk: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in knotty bamboo walking stick from in . 1867, silk fabric similar to alpaca. See also habutai. jambieres: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of Japanese velvet: Velvet with dyed designs. America. Leather greaves. japon: See rok. jamdani: India. Hindu word for a figured or flowered japona: Portugal. Short jacket. muslin. Japonais: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, green blue. jamete: See xamete. jaque: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Man’s jamewar: India. Woolen jamdani. short, rough waistcoat worn by the poor. jamiwar: India. An intricately woven brocade of a silk jaquemar: (1898). Rich red. floral design on a wool background. jaqueta: Portugal. Jacket. Jan de Bry coat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 jaquette: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance C.E.). France. Introduced in 1799, short-waisted coat (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Style of coat, especially with small revers and standing velvet collar that popular among the lower classes, cut like a tunic. 2. fastened shut with three buttons. It was cut away Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s jacket inspired by in front in curve to back where it ended in short, the 17th-century hongreline. 3. France. Jacket. pointed tails. The sleeves were padded at the shoul- jaquette coloriée: France. Blazer. ders and were fitted down the arm where they ended jarajari: India. An imported silk or brocade. in two buttons on the hand itself. Waistcoat showed jarbā: India. Leather slippers. beneath the jacket. jardiniere: 1. Design made of flowers, fruits, and leaves. Jane: False bangs. 2. Pendant ornament on a woman’s headdress. 3. janghia: India. Short pants. France. Low ruffle. 4. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). janna wa-nar: Samaria. Literally “heaven and hell,” Introduced in 1841, striped and gauffered crepe pat- green and red striped fabric. terned with small flowers. jansenistes: See panniers. jari: India. Gold thread. Janus cloth: Double-faced, worsted fabric with each jarrawiyah: Iraq. Man’s turban or wrapped scarf. side a different color. jarreteira: Portugal. Garter. Janus cord: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1867, jarretelle: France. 1. Stocking. 2. Sock supporter. black rep of wool and cotton used for mourning jarretiere: France. Garter. clothing. jas: Holland. Coat. Jap marten: Durable, yellow fur of the Japanese marten jaseran: 1. Algeria. Chain mesh tunic. 2. Short linen jacket often dyed the color of sable. covered in thin metal plates. 3. Elizabethan (1550–1625 Jap mink: Light yellow fur of the mink from Japan with C.E.). Woman’s high necklaces of thin gold chains. a dark stripe down the center back. It was often dyed jasey: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Romantic to resemble American mink. (1815–1840 C.E.). Man’s cheap wig made of jersey jap silk: See habutai. wool yarn. japamala: Hindu prayer beads. jasi: Kiamu. A round ear ornament. Japanese crepe: Japan. Imported plain weave cotton jaspand: Holland. Coattail. fabric with a twisted weft yarn that was made in jaspe: Guatemala. Literally “marbelized,” used of ikat- Japan. patterned threads in weaving. Japanese embroidery: Elaborate satin stitch embroi- jaspè: 1. Heavy drapery fabric woven in stripes of dery made with colored silk or metal threads. differing shades of the same hue. 2. Faint, broken Japanese grass cloth: See Swatow grass cloth. striped effect. ji fu 149 jaspé: Guatemala. Tie-dyed linen. under the arm. Particularly fashionable in 1750s and jaspeado: Guatemala. Cloth woven with jaspé. 1760s. jasper: 1. Black and white fabric. 2. Green chalcedony. Jenny Bell: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, wom- 3. Greenish yellow. an’s unlined travelling mantle trimmed with galloon. jastai: India. Gray. Jenny Lind costume: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United jata-bhara: India. A heavy bundled topknot of matted Kingdom. Popular from 1850 to 1867, dress with an hair worn by Hindu ascetics. off-the-shoulder neckline and with three jata-mukuta: See jata-bhara. lace ruffles. Popularized by Jenny Lind, the Swedish jatun chumbi: Ecuador. A wide belt. Nightingale. jaune: France. Yellow. Jenny Lind riding hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Low- Java canvas: Basket weave canvas used as a base for crowned, moderate brimmed, black beaver hat. The embroidery. brim turned up slightly on the sides. It was trimmed Java cotton: Silky vegetable fiber. with broad band of velvet and satin ribbon with a Java stripes: Brightly striped cotton fabric. rosette on the left. Java supers: United Kingdom. Plain-weave cotton fabric. Jenny Lind sortie de bal: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). jawara: India. Tassels tied on the turban behind the ear. In 1862, wrap of white Venetian cord, trimmed with jazerant: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Jacket made of flounce of Spanish lace over border of colored silk. small overlapping metal plates on a fabric base and jerga: 1. Ecuador. A coarse, twill weave cloth woven on worn as defensive garment. the treadle loom. 2. Peru. Sackcloth. jean: Twill weave cotton fabric. jerkin: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 Jean de Bry coat: See Jan de Bry coat. C.E.). Outer doublet with loose jeanette: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in sleeves. 2. Charles I and the 1836, woman’s necklace made from a narrow band Commonwealth (1625–1660 of hair or velvet and holding a small cross or heart. C.E.) to Crinoline (1840–1865 jedwab: Poland. Silk. C.E.). Military justaucorps jehla: Czechoslovakia. Needle. adapted for civilian dress. jekkertje: See buis. jerkinet: Charles I and the Com- jerkin jelab: Morocco. Wide, wool blouse or hooded cloak. monwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). jeléci: Greece. Woman’s short, sleeveless vest. Woman’s jerkin. jelek: Prussia. Woman’s Turkish-inspired, short, sleeve- jerry hat: United Kingdom. Round felt hat. less waistcoat. jérsei: Portugal. Jersey. jellab: See jelab. jersey: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 20th century. Intro- jellaba: See jelab. duced in 1879, elastic wool fabric that resembled fine jellabia: See jelab. knitting. jellib: See jelab. jersey sweater: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Pullover sweater. jellick: Turkey. Woman’s long jessamine butter: Jasmine scented pomade. coat with fitted waist that hangs jessamy gloves: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Res- open on the sides from the hips toration (1660–1700 C.E.). Popular jasmine scented or a looser version of the same gloves, often given to a bride and bridegroom. garment. jet: Rich black mineral coal which when polished is jelly bag: Man’s soft washable used in making ornaments and trim. nightcap. jet buttons: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Worn in 1818 by jellick jeltesta: Morocco. Jewish wom- women on boots that buttoned on the side. an’s flounced skirt. jhaggā: India. Long, transparent, double-breasted bod- jelteta: Morocco. Jewish woman’s wide velvet skirt, ice with a full skirt and full sleeves. usually the same color as the gonbaiz. jhaggī: See beur. Jemima: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. jhalar: India. Fringe. In 1836, fabric boot with elastic insertions and leather jhamaratali: India. A fine muslin of Bihar origin. toe. Designed for Queen Victoria. jhanbartali: India. A very fine quality muslin. jemmy: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Man’s shooting coat jhangias: India. Short drawers. with multiple pockets. jhulwa: India. Jacket. jemmy boots: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Men’s light jhuna: India. A muslin. riding boots, an upscale version of jockey boots. jhuni: India. A fine quality muslin. jemmy cane: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Ro- ji fu: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Man’s mantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Little switch carried by men sleeved, full-length gown and a curved, surplice 150 ji guan

right front. Worn belted for lesser court functions jin zi: China. Tang dynasty. Fixed turban worn atop and official business. the fu tou. ji guan: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Man’s jinashi: See jinashi-nuihaku. red silk fringe, dyed yak or horsehair version of the jinashi-nuihaku: Japan. A kimono completely covered chao guan worn on semi-formal occasions. Woman’s with gold and embroidery. version was similar but with two wide embroidered jinnah cap: (1940–1950 C.E.). Pakistan. Karakul cap. streamers in the back and a red silk knot on the crown. jinneh-u-nar: Palestine. Cotton fabric with a green silk jiakè: China. Jacket. stripe on one border and a red stripe on the other jiaki-kanoko: Japan. Kanoko with a thin line of plain border. color between the dots. jipijapa: 1. Spain. . 2. Central and South jian: China. Fine silk. American plant used to make Panama hats. jianchóu: China. Pongee. jiqa: Iran. Aigrette. jiàng: China. Deep red; crimson. jiquilite: Guatemala. Indigo plant. jiàngsè: China. Dark reddish brown. jirga poncho: Ecuador. A poncho of jerga. jiàngzì: China. Dark reddish purple. jirkinet: Scotland. Woman’s blouse or jacket. jianzhang: China. Epaulet. jirnavastra: India. A generic term for old fabric. See also jiao dai: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Han pataccara. woman’s rigid bamboo belt covered with red silk jirones: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Gussets and ornamental plaques. or gores. jiaxié: China. Rubber overshoes. jíros: Greece. Women’s hair arranged like a wreath on jiaxue: China. High rubber overshoes. the head. jibba: See jibbah. jiu: China. Bun; knot; chignon. jibbah: Smock. jjalbunyangbokbaji: Korea. Breeches. jibbeh: Palestine. 1. Man’s broadcloth coat, sometimes joaillerie: France. Gem-set jewelry. lined with sheepskin. 2. Coat-like outer garment joaillier: France. 1. Jewelry. 2. Precious stone specialist. worn by both sexes. See also dura’ah; jubbeh. joalharia: See pedraria. jièzhi: China. Finger ring. Joan: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Woman’s small, jigari: India. The color blood red. fitted cap. jigger button: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Small hidden Joan-of-Arc bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United button that held back the wide lapel or rever on a Kingdom. Introduced in 1875, woman’s tight day double-breasted waistcoat. bodice shaped like a corset that reached to the hips jigger coat: Short informal coat. and was covered in jet or steel bead. Tight sleeves jigha: India. A plume with an attached jewel worn on were frilled at the wrists. the turban. Jocelyn mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced jihaz: Palestine. Bride’s trousseau; literally “equipment.” in 1852, woman’s knee-length, double skirted mantle jika-tabi: Japan. A type of rubber-soled tabi used to with three fringed capes and armseyes. walk directly on the ground. jockei: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). jiljeleh: Palestine. Fabric with purple pink stripe. Glorified epaulet or tippet. jiljileh: Palestine. Silk fabric with plain red stripes at jockey: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 each border. C.E.). Worn from 1825 to 1870, flounce at the top of a jillayeh: Palestine. Elaborately ornamented dura’ah. sleeve that formed an epaulette. Jim Crow hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s felt hat jockey bonnet: Directoire and with wide, flapping brim. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). jimbaori: Japan. A warrior’s sleeveless camp coat worn Introduced in 1806, woman’s over the armor. bonnet with full crown and vi- jimi: India. A long, unstitched black or red woolen sor that turned back from the waist-cloth. face. jimiki: India. A large drop earring with tassels. jockey boot: Restoration (1660– jin be wun: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of 1700 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 America. Chinese Hawaiian term for an applique C.E.). Man’s boot that ended pattern resembling a rising cloud. just below the knee with jin huang: China. Literally “golden-yellow,” an orange turned top of lighter leather. color restricted to the emperor’s sons in 1759 C.E. They were pulled on by a jin xian guan: China. Han dynasty (206 B.C.E.–7 C.E.). leather loop on each side. See Scholar’s headdress. also top boot. jockey boot juk’ullu 151 jockey cap: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to 20th cen- and round décolletage and wide silk or satin belt tury. United Kingdom. Man’s of black draped in folds around the waist. velvet. In the 19th century, a light-colored silk cap Josephine knot: Ornamental knot made of two loops was used for racing. with loose ends. jockey sleeve: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to 20th joshan: India. Armlet of gold or silver beads. century. United Kingdom. Man’s fitted sleeve with josie: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1872, light a small cuff. yellowish olive color. jockey waistcoat: Directoire and journade: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Short, circular First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) to garment worn for riding. Initially it had large, full 20th century. United Kingdom. sleeves and later it had long, slit sleeves. Introduced in 1806, man’s straight jouy: Cotton or linen fabric printed with reproductions waistcoat that buttoned high with of 18th-century French prints. a low stand collar cut with a deep joya: Spain. Jewel. gap below the chin. Revived in joyau: See bijou. 1884. ju: China. Zhou dynasty. Thin-soled, walking shoes made jocolo: Transvaal. Ndebele bride’s from material like hemp. Worn by officials at home. beaded rectangular apron. It is 17- juàn: China. Thin, tough silk. 1/4 by 23-1/2 inches. juban: Japan. Silk or cotton un- jockey waistcoat : (20th century). Riding dershirt. breeches that are fitted in the seat, jubba: See jubbah. very full in the hips, tapering to the ankles where they jubbah: Egypt and United Arab fit snugly. Sometimes end in a strap under the foot. Emirates. Long outer garment joeb: Denmark. Skirt. with long loose sleeves worn jofu: Japan. Fine handwoven linen fabric. over the kuftan. John Bull: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s 5-3/4-inch- jube: 1. See jupe. 2. Bulgaria. Sheep- high top hat. skin coat for winter trimmed joho: Swahili. Long robe-like dressing gown. with embroidery and colored joinville: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. applique. Usually long sleeved. juban Worn from 1844 to 1855, man’s wide bow necktie jubeteros: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Doublet with square fringed ends. makers. jojky: Slovakia. Old woman’s shapeless, flat-heeled jubka: Russia. Skirt. boots. jubon: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration jokey: See jockey. (1660–1700 C.E.). Spain. Worn by men under the jonc: France. Rigid bangle bracelet. doublet and by women under the galerilla, a long jonquille: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). sleeved camisole that buttoned all down the front. Introduced in 1811, fashionable shade of yellow. Juchten: Germany. Russian leather. jootī: India. Close-fitting embroidered leather slippers. Judas color: Red. jordáni: Greece. Neck ornament; chest ornament. Judenhut: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Traditional jornea: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Sandwich- pointed . board style short outer garment. Judenkragen: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Crinoline jors: India. Bridegroom’s pink or cream colored silk (1840–1865 C.E.). Ruff worn by . dhoti and chaddar with narrow gold borders. jue: China. Zhou dynasty. Lightweight, convenient jortiní fortescá: Greece. Feast day costume. shoes made from sandal straw. joseph: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Woman’s Jugendstil satin: Germany. Art Nouveau silk. green riding coat. 2. Directoire and First Empire Jugoslavian embroidery: Geometrically designed em- (1790–1815 C.E.). Worn from 1800 to 1810, woman’s broidery done on coarse linen in bright colors. outdoor garment similar to a long Jewish tunic with júhóng: China. Tangerine color; reddish orange. loose sleeves. júhuáng: China. Orange color. Josephine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, bias cut, juive: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). shawl-shaped mantilla. It was three-quarters of a Calf-length douillette. See also tunic à la mameluck. yard from neck to peak. It was made of alternating juk: Holland. Yoke. rows of moiré antique and tulle. It was trimmed with jukh: Palestine. Broadcloth. velvet ribbon and heavy fringe. juk’ullu: Bolivia. Worn by young people to show their josephine bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced unmarried status, a knitted or crocheted cap with a in 1879, woman’s evening bodice with a very low front brim and long black flap. 152 Juliet

Juliet: Woman’s house slipper with high front and back jupen: France. Breton for coat. and U-shaped gores on the sides. jupe-pantalon: France. Pantskirt. Juliet cap: Small, round, open jupon: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Worn over mesh cap decorated with pearls the armor, this garment had the individual’s symbol or simulated jewels. or coat of arms emblazoned on it. Sometimes referred jullaha: India. A weaver. to a petticoat. jump suit: One-piece work or juppe: See gambeson. Juliet play suit. juppo: Austria. Dress with shoulder straps. jumper: 1. Man’s hip-length shirt of sturdy fabric. 2. júrda: Greece. Short, dark blue (almost black) cloak Woman’s pull-on top. worn with the shaggy wool on the inside. jumps: 1. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Woman’s loose jusi: Philippine Islands. Delicate dress fabric of pure bodice. 2. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s loose, silk. thigh-length coat or jacket that buttoned down the justa: Latvia. Belt 12 to 15 cm wide, 2-1/2 to 4 m long. front. It had full sleeves. justaucorps: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Long coat, jungle cloth: Sturdy, tightly woven cotton fabric. fitted in the body and full in the skirt, that buttoned jungle fatigues: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of down the front and had cuffed sleeves. Replaced the America. Introduced in 1963, the Army tropical com- cassock around 1675. bat uniform. justcoat: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United King- jungle khassa: India. Muslin of great beauty. dom. Justaucorps. junihitoe: Japan. Twelve unlined robes worn by court juste au cou: France. Necklace fixed to a ribbon. ladies. jute: Fiber used alone for sacking and mats. Blended juosta: Lithuania. Girdle. with wool or silk for fabric. juostos: Lithuania. Belts. juvel: Denmark and Sweden. Jewel. jupe: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). juweel: Holland. Jewel. Shirt or undergarment worn by both genders. Oc- Juwel: Germany. Jewel. casionally fur lined. See also gipon. 2. France. Skirt. juwelen: Holland. Jewelry. See also kostbaarheden. jupel: See gipon. K

kaabe: Denmark. Cloak. kachavo: See choli. kaacha: India. The pleats of the dhoti tucked in the kachcha: India. A style of wearing the antariya in which back. the fabric is drawn up between the legs to form a kaachadi: See kaacha. trouser-like garment. ka‘ai: United States of America. Hawaii. Girdle of any kachi: Japan. Victory; a black color favored by samurai. kind. kaci: India. A cotton stuff. k’aak’isaekui: Korea. Khaki colored. kaciyau pitha: India. Stiff from Kanchipuram. ka‘ako‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. To belt. kadā: India. Girdle. kaap: Holland. Cape. kadali-garbha: India. A very soft silk. kaasdoek: Holland. Cheesecloth. kadémi: Greece. Large, dark belt with woven plant motifs. kabā: See cogā. kadifa: See samt. kabaa: See chuga. kadife: Turkey. Velvet. kabal: Korea. Wig. kadigi: India. Kohl. kabanica: 1. See plast. 2. Yugoslavia. Long hooded kadillam: India. A waistcloth. coat of brown or black woolen fabric. 3. Bosnia. kadroun: Tunisia. Loose fitting coat worn open to the . waist. kabari bandha: India. A woman’s simple hairstyle in ka‘ei papale: United States of America. Hawaii. Hat- which the hair is twisted into a chignon or bun. band. kabát: Czechoslovakia. Coat. ka‘ei po‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. Selvage kabátek: Slovakia. Woman’s bodice with a double of cloth. pointed, angular neckline. k’aenbosu: See hwap’o. kabaya: Java. Lightweight, white cotton, outer jacket, kaeshi: Japan. A variety of komon with the dots of a often lace trimmed or embroidered that is worn with lighter shade than the background. a sarong. kaffa: See caffa. kabrí: Greece. American material. kaffiyeh: Arabia. Large, square, cotton handkerchief worn : Japan. Armor helmet with decorative horns, over the head and falling to the shoulders. It often has center ornament and iron plates along the back lower colored silk striped or figures and tassels. Worn with edge. an agal. kabuto-sita: Japan. An ebosi worn under the helmet by kafiyyeh: Palestine. Man’s headscarf; large square of military leaders of the highest class. fabric with warp fringes. Usually made of cotton, but kācali: India. Woman’s open-backed, back-fastening can be wool, silk, or a silk and cotton blend. It is white, bodice. black, or patterned. It is worn folded diagonally into a kācavo: See kācali. triangle and held in place with an aqal. káçes: Greece. Pleats. : 1. See caftan. 2. Russia. All-purpose outer gar- kach: India. A Sikh man’s knee-length breeches. ment. It is a long, loose, heavy robe that overlaps, kachabia: Tunisia. Man’s long woolen coat, often in closing on the left side. black or dark brown. kaftani: Nigeria. Short-sleeved gown with slits at the kachali: See choli. sides and neck. It has four pockets.

153 154 kaftany kaftany: Poland. Long jacket. kains: United Kingdom. Plain weave, cotton fabric kafuri: India. Straw color. made for export. kaga-boshi: Japan. A type of hood made in a bag shape kaironan: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, brown with openings for the eyes. tinged with gold. kageyapatte: India. Sackcloth. kaiser-rock: Bohemia. Common name for a man’s coat. kahan: Japan. A woman’s leggings. kaishìmí: China. Cashmere. kahi: India. A deep blackish green color. kaisika: India. Man’s head of curled hair. kahi ‘omou: United States of America. Hawaii. A side kaitaka: New Zealand. Mat of fine flaxen material and or back comb used to hold the hair in place. made with an ornamental border. Worn as a mantle. kahiko: United States of America. Hawaii. To wear kaitsa: Bulgaria. Woman’s halo-shaped hat trimmed finery. with beads and coins. Worn from the wedding day kahiko kaua: United States of America. Hawaii. War until the birth of the first child. finery. kaj kulah: India. Literally “one who wears his hat kahu huruhuru: Australia. Maori general term for awry,” a fop or a dandy. feather cloaks. kājaliyā: India. Diagonally striped tie-dyed scarf in kahu kaakaapoo: Australia. Maori feather cloak black. trimmed with feathers of the kaakaapoo (Strigops kajuk hyokdae: Korea. Leather belt. habroptilus). kaka hu kura: New Zealand. Maori feather cloak. kahu kekeno: Australia. Maori cloak of . kakau uhi: United States of America. Hawaii. Solid tat- kahu kiwi: Australia. Maori cloak covered with feath- too pattern. ers of the kiwi. kakeda: Japan. Fine, raw silk fabric. kahu kura: Australia. Maori cloak covered with feath- kake-eri: Japan. The piece of fabric covering the neck- ers of the native parrot. band of the kimono. kahu kuri: Australia. Maori dogskin cloaks. kaki: Holland. Khaki. kahu toi: Australia. Maori cloak made from cabbage kakimea: United States of America. Hawaii. Cashmere. tree leaves and fiber. kakinia: United States of America. Hawaii. Sateen. kahu waero: Australia. Maori cloak trimmed with tufts kaki-sarasa: Japan. Hand-decorated sarasa. of white dog hair. kakla ruota: Lithuania. Necklace. kaiapa: United States of America. Hawaii. Diaper. kaklaryšis: Lithuania. Necklace. kaidori: Japan. A long overkimono. kakofnitch: Russia. Woman’s headdress in tiara or dia- kaijia: China. Suit of armor. dem shape. kailiniai: Lithuania. Fur garment. kakorízika: Greece. Second quality wool. kailis: Lithuania. Fur. kaksha: India. Red seeds used for making ornaments. kaimana: United States of America. Hawaii. Diamond. kakshyabandha: India. A thick jeweled roll worn at an kain: 1. Indonesia. Sarong made from tube of fabric angle on the hips. 2-2/5 yards around, 1-2/3 yards long. 2. Java. Ankle- kaku obi: Japan. A man’s narrow sash about five inches length skirt cloth. wide. kain bentenan: Celebes. Cotton woven textiles from kaku-maki: See furoshiki. Minahassa. kalabaku: India. A cummerbund of many strings. kain chelum: Borneo. Black fabric. kalabattu: India. A twisted thread made of silk and kain engkudu: Borneo. Red fabric. silver. kain kudu: India. A mantle with a faint design in kalabattun: India. Gold, silver, or base metal thread warp ikat. wound around a silk thread, used for brocading and kain lemar: Thailand. Mat maii shoulder cloth. embroidery. kain lepas: Malaysia. Woman’s skirt cloth worn kalabi: Nigeria. Poor woman’s rectangular headscarf. wrapped around the hips. See also kain panjang. kalabousenn: France. Breton for cap. kain : Borneo. Undyed fabric. kalakamsuka: India. A black muslin or silk fabric. kain panjang: Indonesia. General word for fabric, kalakoa: United States of America. Hawaii. Calico. but used specifically to refer to unseamed gar- kalam: India. A pen-like device used to draw out the ment worn wrapped around the body. See also kain pattern for embroidery. lepas. kalambi: Borneo. Jackets, with or without sleeves, worn kain prada: Bali. Fabric with gold applied to its surface. by both genders. kain sampin: Malaysia. Man’s short sarong worn over a kalambi ara: Borneo. Coat of striped fabric. loose shirt and pants on festive occasions. : East India. Cotton fabric with hand applied kain simbut: Indonesia. A sacred red textile. print. kamben 155 kalandari: India. Silk cloth. felt lines. kalansuwa: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew word kalpak: Turkey. A fur hat. for the Persian hat. Hebrews were restricted to cer- kalpáki: Greece. Man’s large black melon-shaped hat. tain colors and trims in this style. kalpush: India. A Kashmiri red wool or brocade cap kala-pat sari: India. Black silk sari. worn with its lower edge turned up. kalasakha: India. Jewelry worn on the back of the hand. kalsaek: Korea. Brown. kalasiris: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). New Kingdom. kaltsá: Greece. Stockings. Long fitted robe worn in several styles by both gen- kaltsi: Bulgaria. Long gaiters. ders. It could be sleeveless, short and narrow, or long kaltsoskúti: Greece. Wool fabric. and wide. It could be woven or knitted in one piece kaltsouni: Bulgaria. White woolen knee boot trimmed or made in pieces and sewn together. with black braid. kalathaki: Greece. An antique ring. kaltsovelónes: Greece. Needles used of knitting stock- kalauna: Samoa. Crown. ings. kalaunu: United States of America. Hawaii. Crown. kalyptra: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Woman’s thin veil kalaunu bihopa: United States of America. Hawaii. worn over the head and face. Bishop’s miter. kama‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Generic term kalavadi: India. A cadar or duppatta of black silk. for shoe. kalavuka: India. A kamarband of many strings that are kama‘a hakahaka: United States of America. Hawaii. plaited together. Literally “shoes with spaces,” sandals. kaldoh: Abyssinia. A woman’s apron made of skin. kama‘a hawele: United States of America. Hawaii. kalekonuka: United States of America. Hawaii. Sard- Sandals. onyx. kama‘a ‘ie: United States of America. Hawaii. Braided kalets: Bulgaria. Gaiters. sandals. kalewai: United States of America. Hawaii. Light brown kama‘a ili: United States of America. Hawaii. Leather tapa. shoes. kalgan: Italy. Tibet lamb fur. kama‘a laholio: United States of America. Hawaii. Rub- kalghi: Turkey. Culgee. ber shoes. kalhoty: See spodky. kama‘a la‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Sandal kalíca: Greece. Gold-embroidered, summer bridal shoes. made of ti leaf. It is worn for crossing lava. kalidar pyjama: India. A woman’s legwear. kama‘a lo‘ihi: United States of America. Hawaii. Liter- kaliki: United States of America. Hawaii. Corset; girdle. ally “tall shoes,” boot. kaliki waiu: United States of America. Hawaii. Bras- kama‘a pale wawae: United States of America. Hawaii. siere; corset cover. Slipper. kalikia: Greece. A woman’s shoe with a horseshoe kama‘a puki: United States of America. Hawaii. Boot. shaped heel. kama‘ehu: United states of America. Hawaii. Brownish; kalikone: United States of America. Hawaii. Cretonne. reddish brown. kalima hamo: United States of America. Hawaii. Face kamakh: See heremzi. cream. kamakha: India. A brocade from China and Persia. kalimáfkia: Greece. High, flat-topped hats. kamaki: United States of America. Hawaii. Generic kall: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance term for garment. (1450–1550 C.E.). Unfinished back of headdress. 2. kamalaharitacchaya: India. A yellowish green color. Netting foundation for wig. 3. Early Georgian (1700– kamalaveli: India. A stuff decorated with lotus 1750 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s soft flowers. cap or bonnet. See also caul; fret. kamalena: United States of America. Hawaii. Yellow. kallača: Ethiopia. Konso man’s phallic forehead orna- kamandha: India. Girdle. ment. kamarband: 1. India. A woman’s sash. See also paryas- kálluwa: Ecuador and Guatemala. Backstrap loom. tika. 2. Iran. Woman’s sash. kalmuck: Cotton or wool fabric with coarse, hairy nap. kamba iri: Timbuktu. A woman’s bead bracelet. kalmuks: Persia. Cotton or wool fabric with coarse, kambal: India. Coarse wool shawl or blanket. hairy nap. Coarsely dyed. kambala: India. Coarse woolen cloth. kalmus: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew cloak, kambalaghana: India. A closely woven shawl. like a chlamys. kambánes: Greece. Large silver earrings. kalómala: Greece. The best wool. kamben: Bali. A piece of batik worn wrapped around kalotje: Holland. Calotte. the hips and knotted at the waist. It reaches below kalpac: Uzbekistan. Pointed beige cap with three black the knee. 156 kamben cerik

kamben cerik: Indonesia. A long, narrow strip of fabric kamzol: Russia. 17th century. Man’s waistcoat cut worn over the shoulder or wrapped around the head. shorter than the coat. Had long narrow sleeves and It was once used as a breast covering. no pleats or collar. Kambrik: See Battist. kanakagi: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally kāmdānī: India. Silver and gold wire embroidery on “Hawaiian wear,” a loose-fitting, simple dress. white fabric. kanakakamalaihkarna: India. Lotus-shaped ear orna- kamea: Poland. Cameo. ment. kameez: India. Tunic flared at the hip with a side slit. kanakakirita: India. Crown of gold. kamelaukion: High brimless hat worn by Oriental kanakaneyura: India. Anklet. priests. kancala: India. An elaborate earring with pendants. Kamelhaar: Germany. Camel. kanca-pat sari: India. Uncolored silk sari. kame-nozoki: Japan. Light blue. kanchali: India. Backless blouse with sleeves. kamerjas: Holland. Dressing gown. kanchanakumkumakambalanam: India. Saffron col- Kamfhandschuhe: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Ger- ored robe or woolen garment with gold threads many. Gauntlet. woven into it. kamiks: Denmark. boots worn with the hair kanchanakundala: India. Earring of pure gold. on the inside. kanchi: India. Gold belt. kamis: 1. Embroidered, long undergarment worn kanchli: India. Corset. sashed. 2. Ethiopia. Woman’s chemise. kanchuka: India. Man’s coat-like garment. kamiselka: See kamizelka. kanchulika: India. Woman’s fabric bodice. kamishimo: Japan. A wide shouldered formal samurai kancis: India. A hip girdle with bells. costume. kancuka: India. A bodice. kamiz: India. A woman’s tunic, usually worn with kancuyao: India. A coat of mail. shalwar. kandal: Trinidad. Tight-fitting satin or velvet breeches kamizelka: Poland. Waistcoat. that end just above the knee. kamizóla: Greece. Vest with long, on-piece sleeves. kandaure: Indonesia. Woman’s beaded collar or beaded kamkha: India. A generic term for . See also pendant. kamkhab. kanden-medare: Japan. An apron-skirt combination. kamkhab: India. Gold brocade. See also kamkha; kim- kandys: 1. Mede. Man’s garment, wider at the foot than khab; kincob. at the hip. It was so long that it was gathered in the kamkho: India. Silk bodice. front and at the sides and girdled. It had long sleeves kamkhwab: See kamkhab. that were wide at the wrist and tight at the armseye. kammuri: Japan. A skullcap worn 2. Assyria. Skirt of sheepskin. by high noblemen, frequently fea- kanekopa: United States of America. Hawaii. Kind of turing a curved taillike structure foreign cloth. and tying under the chin with a kangan: India. A bracelet. narrow thong. : Australia. Kangaroo-skin leather pro- kamozi: Japan. False hair switches duced in Australia and tanned in the United States. of human hair. One of best for shoe uppers. kampskatcha: Late Georgian kangaroo stance: (1900–1910 C.E.). Woman’s posture (1750–1790 C.E.). Woman’s fur- of forward thrown full bosom and hips thrust back. lined slipper with turned-up toe. The posture was created by the corset. See also S kampskatcha slipper: Late Geor- curve. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). United kange: Kiunguja. Woman’s tobe. kammuri Kingdom. Woman’s slipper with kanggan: Borneo. Chinese black calico. pointed toe that turned up at tip. It had a high vamp kangha: India. A comb worn in a Sikh man’s hair. and a low French heel. kaniki: 1. United Kingdom. Plain weave, cotton fabric kampū: Japan. An Okinawan hairstyle. dyed indigo or black. 2. Kenya. Indigo colored cloth. kampu anaku: Ecuador. An old-style pleated skirt. Kanin: Germany. Rabbit fur. kamr: Palestine. Tablet-woven belt, usually in red or kanjai: India. Smoke gray. brown wool, edged with yellow stripes. kanjian: China. Sleeveless jacket, usually padded or kamrtušky: Slovakia. . lined. kamrukhi: See chaugoshia. kanjiki: Japan. Snow shoes. kamsaek: Korea. Dark navy blue. kankan: India. Gold bangle bracelet studded with pre- kamzar: India. Short coat. cious stones. karbatkos 157 kano cloth: United Kingdom. Coarse, heavy cotton fab- and pleats. From age 12 until the woman is married, ric made for export. she wears a black Kapp for dress and a white one at kanoko: Japan. Fine-knotted tie-dyeing. home. After marriage, the Kapp is white at all times. kanoko-zome: See kanoko. kappa: 1. Japan. Raincoat. 2. Sweden. Cloak. kanonenstiefel: Germany. . kappa dachi: Japan. Literally “simple cut,” a simple kanseya: India. A woven silk. A-line dress. kant: 1. Belgium and Holland. Lace. kapparings: South Africa. Wooden sandals held on by a : India. 1. Torn fabric. 2. A short, broad, and flat knob between the toes. necklace. 3. Cradle-cloth. kappe: See kaabe. kanthamala: India. Dog-collar style necklace. kappel: See keppelche. kanthī: India. Close-fitting gold necklace with pearls kapperoellike: Denmark. Woman’s bonnet-shaped out- and gems. door headdress of black velvet or colored calico. It is kantje: Timbuktu. A small silver ornament worn in the stiffened with cardboard. middle of a woman’s forehead. kappie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). South Africa. Ge- kanto: Japan. Chinese striped fabrics. neric term for a lady’s bonnet. kantopa: India. A flapped cap. kappu: See kuzufu. kanzashis: Japan. Ornamental . kapsa: 1. Czechoslovakia. Pocket. 2. Korea. Best quality kanzasi: Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. An ornamental of sa silk fabric. hair comb. kapsel: Holland. Coiffure. See also hoofdtooi. : Swahili. Native shirt. kaptur: Poland. Hood. kaomi lole: United States of America. Hawaii. Sewing kapuraveli: India. Plain silk fabric. machine presser foot. kapurnur: See qatifah-i-purbi. kap: See huif. kaput: Croatia and Serbia. Coat. kapa: 1. Montenegro. Small pillbox hat with a crimson kaputula bombo: Swahili. 1. Shorts cut round in the crown top to symbolize the blood by the ances- hips, tapering to the legs. 2. Short shorts cut wide in tors for freedom and a black band to memorialize the thighs. those who died in the 14th-century battle of Kosovo. kaputula forpoketa: Swahili. Shorts with two side Women decorate the top of theirs with small designs. pockets and two hip pockets. 2. United States. Hawaiian fabric made of bark. 3. See kaputula ya Kenya: Swahili. Corduroy shorts. siapo. 4. See feldr. 5. Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia. Cap. Kapuze: See Mönchskappe. kápa: Greece. Small vest. kara: India. A steel bracelet worn on the right wrist by kapa ea: United States of America. Hawaii. Sapphire. a Sikh man. kapa ‘ino‘ino: United States of America. Hawaii. Sack- kara-aya: Japan. Plain-colored Chinese silk with a small cloth. woven design. kapa kila: United States of America. Hawaii. Steel ar- karabousenn: See kalabousenn. mor. karagumi: Japan. Highly complicated weaving tech- kapa komo: United States of America. Hawaii. Generic nique used in producing decorative . term for clothing. karakchi: Korea. Ring. kapa lau‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Plaited ti karakul: See caracul. leaf textile. karamil: Palestine. Hair ornaments. kapaladharina: India. Necklace made of skull bones. karamini: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1878, kaparda: India. Braid of hair. light wool fabric with lightly fleecy face. kapasi: India. Light green. kara-mushi: Japan. Ramie. kapdu: India. Hand embroidered blouse. kara-nishiki: Japan. Chinese nishiki. kapeila: United States of America. Hawaii. Sapphire. karanko geta: Japan. A dressy geta. kapeilo: See kapa ea. kara-nui: Japan. Embroidery with Chinese silk thread. kapelusz: Poland. Hat. karaori: Japan. Silk brocaded with floss or gilded paper kapesník: Czechoslovakia. Handkerchief. strips. kapishay: Guatemala. Cloak. kara-ori: Japan. Literally “Chinese weaving,” silk fabric kapitsáli: Greece. Kerchief or band of cloth which imported from China. passes below the chin to connect to the fez. karauna: See kalaunu. kaplamás: See kaváði. karayari: India. Generic term for a thick cloth. kapoto: Crete. Hooded coats. karazsia: Hungary. Tabby weave woolen made from Kapp: United States of America. Amish woman’s head the wool of merino sheep. cap. The cap features a wide variety of fancy work karbatkos: Lithuania. Lace. 158 karbelathehon karbelathehon: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew kasináci: Greece. Freehand stitch. man’s hat. kasjmier: Holland. Cashmere. kardhani: India. Girdle. kask: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Sweden. Spiked helmet. Kardiert: Germany. Any shaggy uncombed wool fabric. kaska: Russia. Helmet. kareeta: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Sweden. Cloth kasket: Denmark. Cap. sack. kasni: India. Heliotrope color. karfitsa: Greece. A large brooch decorated with stones. kassa: . Wool cloth. karieliai: See kaklaryšis. kastanienbraun: Germany. Maroon. karigar: India. Literally “artist,” a brocade weaver of kastanjebruin: Holland. Maroon. Varansi. kasturia: India. A musk-colored silk sari. kariginu: Japan. Originally a hunting costume, it is now kasturiya: India. A musk-colored stuff. the outfit worn by Shinto priests to minor services. kasumbi: India. Bright red. karinca: Romania. Striped, home-woven apron. kasumbo: See pomaco. karitone: See kalikone. kasuri: Japan. 1. Cotton, silk, or linen fabric with a kariyasu: Japan. Yellow dye. splash pattern, or the splash pattern itself. 2. Rare karman: Russia. Pocket. form of woman’s kimono made of tsumugi silk. karmesin: Germany. Crimson. kasuri no shatsu: Japan. Shirts of a sturdy fabric. karmijn: Holland. Carmine. : India. Embroidery work of north Karnataka. karminrot: Germany. Carmine. The figurative designs are worked in cross-stitch and karmozijnrood: Holland. Crimson. several different running stitches. karnabharana: India. Ear-drops. kasztanowaty: Poland. Chestnut colored. karnabhusana: India. Earring. kat: Korea. Top hat made of horsehair. karnapura: India. Earring. katab: India. Gujarati term for appliqué. karnavalaya: India. Round earring. katabira: Japan. 1. Fine ramie fabric. 2. Unlined summer karnaysh: Palestine. White cotton fabric with crinkled garment of ramie or bast. stripes. kata-eri: Japan. Padded collar. karnika: India. Flowerlike ear pendant. katagami: Japan. Paper dyeing stencils used on textiles. karnotkilaka: India. Drum-shaped ear ornament. kata-hazusi: Japan. The hairstyle of maids who serve a karnphul: India. A flower-shaped earring. daimyo (feudal lord). karong: Borneo. Coverlet. kataka: India. Bracelets. kaross: 1. South Africa. Square, rug-like garment made katami-gawari: Japan. Literally “half-body garment,” a of skins. 2. Africa. Skin cloak worn by a bushman. garment with two sides of different colors or patterns. karpasa: India. A cotton fabric. See also badara. katana jhuna: India. 1. A fine linen muslin. 2. A thin, karpata: India. A dirty or tattered cloth. coral colored linen striped or decorated with lotuses. karppura-tilaka: India. A camphor white silk. kata-ori: Japan. Tightly woven, fine textured fabric. kartriz: Russia. Man’s visored cap. katapu: Borneo. Cap; war-cap. karure: New Zealand. Maori term for a heavy thread katasárci: Greece. Undershirt. formed by twisting fibers by rolling them between katasuso: Japan. Literally “shoulders and hem,” a the hands. garment in which the color and design are divided kasa: Japan. Man’s basket-shaped straw hat. horizontally. kasaba: India. Woman’s skullcap. katatsuke: Japan. Use of fine rice paste resist in stencil kasacken: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. . Sleeveless over-jerkin. kataza-kanoko: Japan. Kanoko in which the dots are : India. The color red ochre. more widely spaced than in honzo-kanoko. Kaschmir: Germany. Cashmere. kata-zome: Japan. Stencil dyeing. See also . kaseyyaka: India. A high quality cotton or silk fabric. katazome: Japan. Stencil dyeing. See also kata-zome. kasha: France. Fine, softly napped, twill weave fabric kátça: Greece. Wool strands from a male goat used for made of cashmere goat wool. decorating costumes. kasha cloth: Plain weave, cotton flannel fabric. Kate Greenaway costume: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to kashabia: See kachabia. 1890s. United Kingdom. Worn in 1880s and 1890s kashmir: Palestine. Woman’s ceremonial girdle. See also by small girls, Empire style dress with high waist, ishdad. puffed short sleeves, and skirt trimmed with a nar- kasiam: India. A generic term for thin cloth. row flounce. The whole was made from a light fabric kasida: India. Embroidery. patterned with flowers. Popularized by the illustra- kasimea: See kakimea. tions of Kate Greenaway. kenting 159

Katharine of Aragon lace: United Kingdom. A bobbin kazachock: Russia. Outer shirt. lace made with a scrolling tape pattern. kazaka: Madagascar. Man’s . kathipa: India. A style of embroidery that utilizes geo- kazázis: Greece. Silk worker. metric designs with one section in a horizontal pat- kazdodenný kroj: Slovakia. Everyday dress. tern and the next in a vertical pattern. kazuifel: Holland. Chasuble. katifés: Greece. Velvet. kazuki: Japan. Special kimono worn as a head covering. katikinari: India. Cutwork used in borders. kažuoks: Lithuania. Fur. katisutra: India. A string that suspends the hip-belt. ké deigo danineezi: Navajo. Boot. katitra: India. A waistcloth. ké’achogii: Navajo. Galoshes. kat-no: Korea. Pleated cone of deep yellow colored, kebat: Borneo. Ikat. oiled paper that is worn as a rain hat. : Indonesia. Woman’s blouse cut with curved kato manikia: Greece. Literally “lower sleeves,” these seams on rectangles and no darts. Flares over hips ornamental lower sleeves are worn with the tzakos. and has gussets under the arms. katoen: Holland. Cotton. keččō: Ethiopia. Man’s arm rings. katoenfluweel: Holland. Velveteen. kecelja: See pregaca. katori: See kata-ori. kedelys: Lithuania. Petticoat. katra: Peru. Blanket of black sheep’s wool decorated kediyun: India. White smock. with a thick, wide, horizontal stripe woven in red : Trade name for rubber soled shoes. wool. It is worn as a mantle. kee ha hai: (1900–1910 C.E.). United States of Amer- katsura: Japan. Wig. ica. Chinese Hawaiian term for Manchu style stilt katsura-zutsumi: Japan. A white head shawl. shoes. kattan: India. Waste selvedge in silk weaving. Used for keear: Isle of Man. The color brown. stringing ornaments. kefa: Iran. Loincloth. Kattūn: Germany. Old word for cotton. keffieh: See kaffiyeh. kaula ho‘olewa: United States of America. Hawaii. : See kaffiyeh. Bracelets. keilhose: (1930–1940 C.E.). Skirt trousers with gusset. kaula li: United States of America. Hawaii. Lacing for kekryphalos: Greece. Handkerchief worn by women shoes or corset. on head. kaula li kama‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. kela lole: United States of America. Hawaii. Tailor; Shoelace. dressmaker. kaula uaki: United States of America. Hawaii. Watch chain. kelalin lambai: Borneo. Lacing stitch. kaun: See kin koot. kain : Malaysia. Deep blue, green, kaunace: Mesopotamian skirt of dressed leather. maroon, or purple silk fabric shot with silver and kaunakes: Sumeria. Around 3,000 B.C.E., long-haired gold thread. fur pelt worn as a skirt or a cape. Later, referred to a kelinės: Lithuania. Trousers. hairy cloth similar in appearance to the pelt. kelle: See kall. kaupapa: New Zealand. Maori term for the body of a kelt: Scotland. Heavy woolen suiting. feather cloak made of dressed flax fiber. kemba: See foloara. kaupin: India. Upper body garment. : Java. Breast cloth worn by women instead of kauseya: India. A mulberry silk. a blouse. kauseyaka: India. Silk. kemener: France. Breton for tailor. kaushambha: India. Silk garment dyes with kushumba keményszárú csizma: Hungary. Calf-high boots with (Carthamus tinctorius). hard uppers. kausheya: India. A good quality tassar silk fabric. kemes: Early form of the chemise. kausumbha: India. A saffron colored cloth. kemha: Turkey. Figured silk brocade. kaváði: Greece. Cotton or silk coat worn open down kemp: Short, harsh wool. the center front. It has elbow-length or full-length kendal: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). United King- sleeves. dom. Coarse green fabric made in Westmorland. kawa: 1. Iran. Short jacket. 2. Japan. Leather. kendal-green: See kendal. kawakī: India. Short dress. kengkang: Borneo. Stripe. kawiliwili humuhumu: United States of America. Ha- kennel headdress: See gable headdress. waii. Sewing machine that is worked by hand, not : Ghana. Woven cloth. Literally “that which by foot. will not tear away under any conditions.” kawung: Java. Cotton. kenting: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Fine linen kayabandh: India. A cummerbund or sash. made in Holland and imported to Ireland. 160 ke‘oke‘o maoli

ke‘oke‘o maoli: United States of America. Hawaii. keshinui: Japan. Embroidered family crest. Good quality bleached muslin. kesho: Japan. Makeup. ke‘oke‘o pia: United States of America. Hawaii. Inferior ketesal: See kittysol. bleached muslin. kethoneth: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Mid-calf length ke‘oke‘o wai: United States of America. Hawaii. tunic made of wool or linen. Bleached muslin. ketl’óól: Navajo. Shoelace. keorai: India. Eggshell color. ketoh: Leather band worn around the wrist by Navajo kep quàn áo: Vietnam. Trouser clip. men. Remnant of the bow guard. kep tóc: Vietnam. Barrette; hairpin. : Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Nickname for kepa: See siapo. knight’s iron helmet. kepala: Indonesia. Literally “head,” refers to a panel of kettyl hat: Late Gothic (1350–1450 contrasting color and design. C.E.). Wide brimmed steel war kepen’: Belarus and Hungary. Overcoat. hat. kepen’ak: See kepen’. kettysol: See kittysol. kepenek: See coha. kevenhuller: See androsame. : Flat crowned military cap keyhole neckline: Round neck- with a horizontal visor. line with wedge-shaped cut- kettyl hat keppelche: Poland. Jewish man’s out. skull-cap. keyura: India. Armlets worn on the forearm. See also kepresh: Egyptian (4000–30 angada. B.C.E.). War headdress of the khaddar: India. Homespun cotton fabric. Pharaoh, a tall tiara covered in : India. A hand-spun, handwoven cloth. projecting circles. khadi lehnga: India. A full-gathered skirt. keptar: 1. Ukraine. Sleeveless khaiki: Japan. All-silk fabric. kepi sheepskin vest. 2. Romania. Bodice. khajalia: India. A gold stuff. kepuré: Lithuania. Cap. khaki: 1. Sturdy cotton or wool fabric. 2. Light yellow- kera: . Waistband or sash. ish brown color, from East Indian word meaning kera-mino: Japan. A woman’s coat woven from the earth color. bark of the linden tree. Khaki Kool: Trade name for sports silk with rough, kere: Sumbawa. A brightly colored cotton plaid worn crepe surface. as a sarong. khalaga: See beramen. keriya: India. A child’s tight fitting, long sleeved jacket : Uzbekistan. Man’s loose-fitting, knee-length, with a skirt-like border that flares out from the long sleeved cotton coat worn with colored handker- breastbone. chief tied around the waist. kermezot: Palestine. Silk and cotton blend fabric. khalaty: (1960–1970 C.E.). Russia. Robes or housecoats. kerry cloak: Ireland. Long hooded cloak. khalkals: Berber woman’s cylindrical anklets. kersetka: Ukraine. Woman’s sleeveless vest which fas- khalkhal: Persia. Women’s heavy gold and silver an- tens on the left. It was trimmed in black velvet and klets. tape or zigzags. It may be as long as hip length. khallus: Bolivia. Small pocket inside ch’uspa. kersey: Strong, twill or plain weave fabric with a wool khamar: See sualef ez zoher. or cotton warp. Usually ribbed. khamout: Burma. Conical straw hat. kerseymere: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 khan ðôi ðàu: Vietnam. Turban. C.E.). Strong, twill weave, wool fabric used for men’s khan mùi-soa: Vietnam. Handkerchief. vests, coats, and breeches. See also casimir. khan ngang: Vietnam. Mourning turban. kerseynette: Cotton and worsted suiting. khan tang: See khan ngang. kersrood: Holland. Cerise. khan tay: Vietnam. Handkerchief. kes: India. A Sikh man’s unshorn hair. khan trùm: Vietnam. Veil. kesa: 1. Japan. Mantle. 2. Japan. Priest’s robe. khan tua: Vietnam. Fringed shawl. k’eša: Lithuania. Pocket. khan vaông: Vietnam. Square scarf worn folded and kesapasa: India. A woman’s hairstyle in which the hair tied under the chin. is looped close to the head in a long knot. khan voông: Vietnam. Scarf. kesariya: India. Saffron colored. khanga: United Kingdom. Printed or color-woven cot- kesdi: Turkey. An interlaced hand stitch. ton fabric. kesg’han: India. Hair ribbon. khapusa: India. Boots that extend to above the knee. keshghan: India. Hair ribbon. kharaz azraq: Palestine. Blue bead bracelets. ki-mô-nô 161 kharita: See kareeta. kickies: See unmentionables. kharma: India. A floss silk. kid leather: Thin, soft leather made from very young kharwa: India. Deep red calico. milk-fed animals. khasata: India. A fine variety of muslin. kidara: See ki-gomo. khatim: Palestine. Signet ring. kidaris: Mesopotamia. Ribbed tiara or embroidered hat khatwa: India. Appliqué work done in Bihar. worn by the king. khawatim: Palestine. Finger rings. kidungas: United Kingdom. Printed or color-woven khazz: India. Silk. cotton scarves. kheaya el kebira: Morocco. Gold embroidered slippers. kiel: Holland. Blouse. kheenkaub: See kamkhab. kierpce: Poland. Soft leather moccasin-type shoe. khemkaub: See kamkhab. kieszen’: Poland. Pocket. khenmet: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Red jasper. ki-gomo: Japan. A mat of rushes worn on the back to khepesh: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Curved sword. protect one from the sun. kherqah: Palestine. Woman’s Ramallah-embroidered ki-hachijo: Japan. Yellow hachijo silk. veil. kihachijo: Japan. A silk fabric made from silk yarns khesbed: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Lapis lazuli. treated with a vegetable dye. khiên-churong: Vietnam. Academic hood. kihei: United States of America. Hawaii. Shawl. khila: India. Robes of honor. kihei ‘a‘ahu no‘eno‘e: United States of America. Ha- khilat: India. Generic term for a set of clothes. waii. Literally “colored garment cape,” decorated khimara: Egypt. Islamic woman’s head covering of cape. medium weight fabric in white or another subdued kiing: Zaire. Raffia fiber used for sewing. color. kiki skirt: (1910–1920 C.E.). Knee-length, form-fitting khinkhwab: India. A brocade of silk with gold or silver skirt, popularized by play of the name. wires woven in. kiklikas: Lithuania. Woman’s vest or corselet. khirka: Robe or mantle worn by in Muslim kikoi: Kenya. White cotton fabric with a colored countries. border. khirkah: See khirka. kikois: East African man’s brightly colored cloth worn khirkidar: India. A flat style of turban made from a tied at the waist. very long strip of muslin rolled into a rope. kila: India. Ear stud. khirki-dar-: India. Literally “turban with win- kilika: United States of America. Hawaii. Silk. dow,” dress turban with a band of brocade. kilika lau: United States of America. Hawaii. Brocaded khirodaka: India. An ancient silk stuff. silk. : Palestine and United Arab Emirates. Married kilika nehe: United States of America. Hawaii. Taffeta. woman’s veil worn over the smadeh. Usually made killa: Bolivia. Half-moon shaped, brimmed cloth hat. of natural or bleached handwoven linen. killu: Ecuador and Guatemala. Yellow. kho: See bakku. kilmarnock: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Scotland. khombu: Indonesia. A rich red brown dye from the Woolen serge made in Kilmarnock. Morinda citrifolia root. kilmarnock bonnet: Scotland. Broad topped, wool cap. khopa: India. Woman’s hairstyle with a coil of hair on kilt: Scotland. Skirt of vertical pleats, usually of tartan the back of the head. plaid fabric. khsur: Palestine. Amber bracelets. kilted skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular for young khuff: Turkey. Woman’s pair of black boots for outdoor boys in 1870, short skirt with deep pleats, based on wear. the Highland costume. khuri: See qatifah-i-purbi. kiltie tongue: Long shoe tongue that forms fringed flap khurkeh: Palestine. Woman’s linen dress that is made over laces. very long and then bloused at the waist. Sleeves are kim cài ðãu: Vietnam. Pin; hairpin. fitted at the armseye and flared at the wrist. Front kim-bang: Vietnam. Safety pin. of the garment is elaborately embroidered as are the kim-curong: Vietnam. Diamond. wrists and hem. kimkhab: India. Silk brocades with floral motifs. khusulka: India. The waistcloth of Buddhist monks. kimkhwab: See kamkhab. kiber: See qumbaz. kim-khôi: Vietnam. Gold helmet. kibr: United Arab Emirates. Man’s hooded, striped cot- kimmoru: Japan. Indian silk with gold thread designs. ton or silk robe. kim-ngoc: Vietnam. Gold and jade. kick pleat: Inverted pleat that adds fullness to straight kimono: Japan. Long gown with full sleeves. skirts. ki-mô-nô: Vietnam. Kimono. 162 kimono dress kimono dress: (20th century). Women’s loose gown made k’isas: Chile. Gradated stripes of color in a woven tex- in lines of a Japanese kimono. Popular around 1912. tile. kimono flannel: Soft, plain weave flannel. kišené: Lithuania. Pocket. kim-thoa: Vietnam. Gold hairpin. kisi: China. Brocade fabric. kim-thuyen: Vietnam. Lamé. kisibao: Swahili. A kind of waistcoat. kin koot: Korea. Gown. kiski: Macedonia. Red fringe. kinamu: United States of America. Hawaii. Gingham. kišni ogrtač: See kabanica. kināri: India. 1. A variety of gold or silver lace. 2. Sari’s kišobran: Bosnia. Umbrella. border. kiss curl: See accroche-coeur. kincob: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Indian silk kissing-strings: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). gauze embroidered in gold or silver flowers and Strings used to tie a mob cap under the chin. other large figures. kiss-me-quick: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- kinderbroekje: Holland. Panties. dom. Worn from 1867 to 1869, popular name for a kinderschort: Holland. Pinafore. fashionable small bonnet. king klipper: (1960–1970 C.E.). Man’s five-inch-wide kitamby: See lambahoany. necktie. kite-high dandy: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United kingcob: See kamkhab. Kingdom. Man’s 7-3/8-inch-high top hat. kính trang: Vietnam. Eyeglasses. kitel: Russia. Tunic. kinham: India. A thin black silk. kithaika: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1550 kinihama: See kinamu. C.E.). Russia. In 1654, a strong linen in plain white or kiniki: Maori. A kilt. a single color. kinkhab: See qatifah-i-purbi. kitsol: See kittysol. kinkhaib: See kincob. kittasol: See kittysol. kinkini: India. Anklet with small bells on it. kittasole: See kittysol. k’inkus: Bolivia. Woven zigzag pattern that creates a kittel: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Germany. Smock twill-like weave. or coat worn by all classes with no skirt of tails. Cut kinran: Japan. Gold brocaded fabric. in one piece, widening gradually from the shoulders. kinsha: Japan. Fine silk fabric; gold figured gauze. Usually worn with a girdle. Had long, not wide kinu: Japan. Plain weave silk. sleeves. Generally hung to the knee or below. Usu- kinumo: Japan. Old-style of woman’s dress with skirt ally plain. 2. Hebrew. White cotton gown worn by and short coat. orthodox Jews for solemn ceremonies and for burial. kip: Raw or dressed pelt of young steer, cow, or horse. 3. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Austria. Lightweight, kipini: Yao. Nose ornament. convenient linen tunic worn by the infantry when kippe-sole: See kittysol. in Italy. kirdan: Palestine. Woman’s silver choker necklace. kittesaw: See kittysol. kirin: Korea. Animal with a horn and a flame from its kittisal: See kittysol. mouth. Insignia for male members of the royal fam- kittsol: See kittysol. ily. kittysol: India. Slang for umbrella. kiri-osa: Japan. Embroidery using loose stitches couched kittysoll: See kittysol. with short cross threads. kitysol: See kittysol. kirita: India. 1. Man’s gold diadem, sometimes orna- kiver: Shako. mented with gems and pearls. 2. Man’s turban. kkokkaot: Korea. Children’s gala dress. kirita-mukuta: India. Man’s conical hat with an orna- kkwemaeda: Korea. To darn. ment on top. kläda: Sweden. To clothe or to dress. kirk: Turkey. Woman’s ankle-length coat with short, kläde: Sweden. Cloth. tight sleeves. Often lined with fur and folded back kläder: Sweden. Clothing. from facings at the neck, front edge, and sleeve ends. klaft: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Pharaoh’s striped fab- Kirmees: India. A muslin. ric headdress on which a sparrow hawk was woven. kirpas: India. A generic term for cotton fabric. Worn over the temples and tied or pinned behind the kirtle: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan base of the head. (1550–1625 C.E.). Women’s garment that was clos- klapa: Poland and Portugal. Lapel. efitting through the body and was full in the skirt. klapbroek: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). South Af- Evolved from the cotehardie. rica. Breeches with a flap-fly front. kisaly: Madagascar. Woman’s cotton shoulder wrap. klapong sirat: Borneo. Man’s waistcloth with decorated See also lamba. flap in back. kodmen 163 klapove hitl: See lappenmutze. knee-fringe: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United King- Klapphut: Germany. Gibus. dom. Worn from 1670 to 1675, fringe of ribbons worn klashnik: Bulgaria. Thick wrap of wool and goat’s hair. around the base of open breeches. klaw-i jnan: Iran. Unmarried woman’s pillbox hat. knee-piece: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Top portion klaw-i pyawan: Iran. Crocheted skull cap. of boot hose. kleeden: Holland. To clothe or to dress. knee-string: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Geor- kleederen: Holland. Clothing. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. Ties for kleedermaker: Holland. Literally “clothes maker,” tailor. gathering in the breeches below the knee. kleeding: See kleederen. knevel: See snor. kleiden: Germany. To clothe or to dress. See also woeten. Knickebockers: Germany. Knickerbockers. kleider: Germany. Clothing. knickerbockers: 1. Bustle (1865– Kleiderrock: Germany. Jumper. 1890 C.E.). Knee-length men’s kleidunge: See kleit. trousers. Named for Father Kleinod: See Juwel. Knickerbocker. 2. Introduced kleinood: See juweel. in 1867, thick, coarse wool fab- kleinōt: See gimme. ric, sometimes speckled. kleit: Germany. Old word for clothing. kniebroek: See kuitbroek. klejnot: Poland. Jewel. Kniehosen: Germany. Knee- klenot: Czechoslovakia. Jewel. breeches. kletje: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Collarette. kniepe: Lithuania. Pin. klídja: Greece. Embroidery or black cloth bands on the Kniestrümpfe: Germany. Long knickerbockers siguni. socks. klier: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Diminu- knife pleats: Series of small, hard pleats, all facing the tive name for a collar. same direction. klimatáca: Greece. Embroidery for everyday . knight’s blue: (1930–1940 C.E.). A new color. klistó jiléci: Greece. Bride’s vertically buttoned vest. knijpbril: Holland. Pince-nez. klobouk: Czechoslovakia. Hat. knipling: 1. Denmark. Lace. 2. Norway. Metal lace. : 1. Croatia and Serbia. Hat. 2. Poland. High cap. kniplinger: Denmark. Lace. klœða: Norway. Old word meaning to clothe or to dress. knipmuts: Holland. Woman’s broad lille lace bonnet klœde: Denmark and Germany. 1. To clothe or to dress. with long tail at nape of neck. 2. Cloth. knobkerry: South Africa. Walking stick. klœder: Denmark and Germany. Clothing. knoflik: Czechoslovakia. Button. klœði: Norway. 1. Old word for clothing. 2. Old word knol: Holland. Jade. for cloth. knoop: Holland. Button. klompen: Holland. Heavy wooden shoe; a sabot. knoopsgat: Holland. Buttonhole. klonári: Greece. Embroidery design for chemises of knop: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Button or tassel. newly married women. 2. See knoop. klöppel: Germany. Bobbin. knopehaak: Holland. Buttonhook. klos: Holland. Bobbin. Knopf: Germany. Button. klosant: Belgium. Bobbin lace. Knöpflers: United States of America. Word referring to kluteen: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in 1815, Mennonites. French figured and striped silk used for women’s Knopfloch: Germany. Buttonhole. spensers and . Knopflochblume: See Knopfloch. kna: Greece. Henna staining of bride’s hands. knypkis: See saga. knap: Denmark. Button. k’o ssŭ: China. Silk tapestry. knapp: Sweden. Button. kobaltblauw: Holland. Powder blue. knee breeches: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to 20th Kobe flannel: Japan. Similar to challis, only finer and century. Worn from 1570s on, men’s breeches that more closely woven. closed below the knee. kobe gani: Timbuktu. A silver thumb ring. knee buckles: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Romantic kobene: Ghana. Vermillion red Ashanti cloth worn (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Buckles that se- when the chief has just lost a close relative. cured the knee-bands on men’s breeches. kobene cloth: See kobene. knee-band: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Romantic kochi: India. The tucked in portion of the pleats of the (1815–1840 C.E.). Band that closed the knee breeches sari. below the knee. kodmen: Hungary. Short coat. 164 ködmön ködmön: Hungary. Woman’s sleeved, embroidered kolobus: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Worn in fourth-cen- lambskin jacket that reaches to the waist. It has stand- tury B.C.E., chiton made of two pieces of fabric that ing collar and is trimmed in fur. were sewn together at shoulders and sides, leaving kodongsaek: Korea. Brown; reddish brown. openings for the head and arms. Often worn girded kodot: Korea. Outer garment. at the waist. kodulch’i: Korea. Ceremonial white cuffs on a jacket. koloka: United States of America. Hawaii. Cloak; cape. koffo: Indonesia. Manila hemp. kolonáto: Greece. Mourning chemise. kogai: Japan. A large, thick bar to which a woman’s hair kolor granatowny: Poland. Navy blue. is fastened. kolor khaki: Poland. Khaki, the color. kogel: See gugel. kolpak: Poland. High, sable hat trimmed with plush. kogin: Japan. White cotton thread embroidered on kolpos: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Bloused part of the rough indigo linen. chiton at the waist. kohl: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Black cosmetic used to komag: Norway. Man’s reindeer hide boots. make up the eyes and eyebrows. komager: Norway. Worn by Lapps, soft heelless bootees. kohlschwartz: See pechschwartz. komānam: India. Loincloth. kojinė: Lithuania. Stocking. kombologion: Greek Orthodox knotted rosary. kokade: Russia. Cockade. kombu: Indonesia. Red dye made from the roots of the Kokarde: Germany. Cockade. Morinda citrifolia. kokechi: Japan. Tie-dyeing. kombukta: Korea. Dark red. koketsu: Japan. Tie-dyeing. komo humuhumu: United States of America. Hawaii. ko-kinran: Japan. Ancient kinran. Thimble. kokoo: Ghana. The color red. komo lima: United States of America. Hawaii. Ring. : Russia. Most valued part of a peasant komon: Japan. A small allover design done by stencil woman’s costume. Shape of this elaborately resist dyeing. trimmed headdress varies widely in different regions. Komparu: Japan. Ko-kinran design named for family of kokowai: See horu. Noh actors. koksya: India. 1. A cloth that covers the genitals. 2. The komp’uruda: Korea. Dark blue. border of a garment. komun: Korea. Black. kola: 1. Pakistan. Man’s little round embroidered hat. 2. komusin: Korea. Rubber shoes with turned up toes. Persia. Turban. 3. Samoa. Collar. kon: Japan. Dark blue. kolah: Persia. Brimless black lamb or cloth cap in a konam: India. Loincloth. turban shape. kondó: Greece. Sleeveless chemise. kólan: Greece. Silver belt. kondosa: Japan. A thick, dark blue paper that is pasted kolaristó: Greece. Cotton petticoat. to the inside of a hairknot. kolbe: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s hairstyle in konfederatka: See czapka. a bowl shape. kon-gasuri: Japan. A cotton kasuri dyed with vegetable kol’co: Russia. Finger ring. indigo dye. kolczyk: Poland. Earring. kongdan: Korea. Silk satin fabric. kolder: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Soft kontush: Poland. Generously cut caftan-shaped mantle. leather jerkin. koo: China. Dark blue everyday clothing. kolinsky: Italy. Chinese or Siberian mink (Mustela sibirica) kooi: Japan. Baby-carrying sash. with straight, silky fur that is dyed brown to mimic sable. ko‘oko‘o ‘amana: United States of America. Hawaii. Kolinsky: Germany. Kolinsky fur. Literally “tee-shaped cane,” cane with a handle. kolitsa: Bulgaria. Black woolen shawl worn wrapped kooletah: Buttonless fur coat that pulls on over the head around the fur cap, ends hanging down in back. and is worn by Eskimos. koller: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Prussia. Front button- koong-soo: Korea. Professional embroidery. ing, long tunic worn by . koopuu: Australia. Maori plain inner garment. kolnierz: Poland. Collar. koorhemd: See superplie. koloa: United States of America. Hawaii. Long cane kopa: Australia. Maori flax sandal that folds around with a crook. the foot. kolob: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew person’s kopako: United States of America. Hawaii. Topaz. linen tunic. kopča: Bosnia. A buckle. kolobium: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). One-piece shirt-like kopeniak: Hungary and Poland. Overcoat. garment worn by men. Opened on side for the arm Kopftuch: Germany. Head scarf. and was often woven in one piece. kopin: India. Man’s narrow coat-like dress. krawat 165 köpönyeg: Hungary. Mantle. k’ossuyom: Korea. Moustache. kopplak: Holland. Large woolen headscarf woven in kostbaarheden: See juwelen. colorful pattern. kostim: Serbo-Croation. 1. Costume. 2. Swimsuit. koprena: Croatia and Serbia. 1. Gauze; crepe. 2. Veil. kostium damski: Poland. Lady’s suit. koprina: Bulgaria. Sort of silk. kostuum: Holland. Costume. kopseró: Greece. Woven embroidery design for the kosula: Poland. Shirt. apron. kósula: Greece. Chemise. koreddō: See garannō. kosulja: Croatia and Serbia. Shirt. korenka: Bulgaria. Apron called bark due to hardness kosuru: Japan. Small vine scroll pattern. of the fabric. koszula damska: Poland. Chemise. Korin-nami: Japan. A favored decorative pattern of koszula meska: Poland. Shirt. waves. kotai: See lhani. kornaysh: Palestine. Silk crepe fabric. kote: Japan. Armored and chain mail sleeves. kornek: France. Lace coif. koteny: Hungary. Very decorative apron. kornish: Egypt. Hem ruffle. koti oversaizi: Swahili. A long, Edwardian style coat. korona: Poland. Crown. kötö: See koteny. koronka: Portugal. Lace. kotoñs: France. Breton for cotton. koronki: Poland. Lace. kotuly: Czechoslovakia. Large, round brooches. korowai: New Zealand. Maori term for a large, fine cloak. kountouch: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Poland. korozen: Japan. Yellowish brown. Long, sleeveless coat. korsaza: Madagascar. Brassiere. kous: Holland. Stocking. korset: Holland. Corset. kova sheberosho: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). He- Korsett: Germany. Corset. brew’s head covering. kort wollen jasje: Holland. Spencer. ko-watari-tozan: Japan. An early striped cotton. korte: Holland. Breeches. koyava: India. A wrapper stuffed with cotton. korte pruik: Holland. Bob wig. koynek: 1. Turkmenistan. Woman’s loose-fitting, ankle- korum: Korea. Two sashes used to tie the chogori. length dress. 2. Iran. Woman’s long-sleeved tabard. koruna: Russia. Maiden’s filet. koza: Croatia, Russia, and Serbia. Leather. kosa: India. A fabric dyed in safflower. kozesina: Czechoslovakia. Fur. kosárky: Slovakia. Hat plumes. kozhoushé: Bulgaria. Fur coat. koshi: Japan. Plaid design. kozhukh: Ukraine. Enveloping sheepskin coat. Style koshiate: Japan. Shin guards for armor. depends on the shape of the skins. koshihimo: Japan. Waist-ties. kozsók: Hungary. Woman’s hip-length sheepskin coat koshimaki: Japan. 1. Summer garment of the samurai. embroidered with silk. 2. Woman’s loincloth. 3. Underskirt. kozuch: Poland. Sheepskin. koshipiri: Japan. A style of kimono. kraag: Holland. Collar. koshoulya: Bulgaria. Smock of the bridal costume. krachoom: Thailand. Peaked red hat worn by naak kosi: Samoa. Gauze. (candidate for priesthood). kosile: Czechoslovakia. Shirt. krage: Sweden. Collar. kosírek: Slovakia. Plume worn by an unmarried man Krage: Germany. Collar. on his hat. Kragen: Germany. Collar. kosnyo: Bulgaria. Hungary. Bodice closed with a flap kragna: Serbian. Goller. called the fudzo. krajky: Czechoslovakia. Lace. kosode: Japan. Kimono with only krambuno: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja sunshade made a small sleeve opening. The fore- from leaves of the fan-palm. runner of the modern kimono. kras: Iran. Woman’s dress with a full gathered skirt and shirt: Russia. Man’s straight sleeves. traditional peasant shirt with kraspeda: Hebrew. Decorative borders. band collar, long full sleeves, Kräuseln: Germany. Curliness. and asymmetrical front opening. krauss: (1920–1930 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s Made of cotton, silk, or wool. skirted coat; usually worn with checkered trousers. Kossuth: Crinoline (1840–1865 kravata: Bosnia. Necktie. C.E.). Low-crowned, soft, flat Kravatte: Germany. Necktie. kosode hat introduced by the Hungarian krave: Denmark. Collar. patriot, Louis Kossuth, in 1851. krawat: Poland. Necktie; cravat. 166 Krawatte

Krawatte: See Halsbinde. made from tubes of fabric that were joined with gus- krawiec: Poland. Tailor. sets in the crotch. Had a cotton waistband. kredemnon: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Woman’s veil ku zhe: China. Northern man’s pleated coat and breeches. worn to conceal face. kuakalikea: United States of America. Hawaii. Cloth kredka: Poland. Lipstick. with white on its edges. krejci: Czechoslovakia. Tailor. kubba: Afghanistan. Tunic. krekls: Lithuania. Shirt. kubba’ah: See libbadeh. kremezi: Greece. Red outlining thread. kubi najûn kudo: Korea. Low-heeled shoes. Krempe: Germany. Brim. kubi nop’ûn kudu: Korea. High-heeled shoes. krepis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 kudtā: India. Long coat; long sleeved tunic. C.E.). Light, thin soled sandal kuduggun: Korea. Shoestring. worn laced to ankle. kueka: United States of America. Hawaii. Sweater. Krepp: Germany. Crape. kuffieh: See kaffiyeh. Kreuzstich: Germany. Cross-stitch. kufia: Tunisian Hebrew woman’s pantaloons that are krez: France. Breton for shirt. fitted to the ankle. krepis krimija: See kanseya. kufiyeh: See kaffiyeh. See also photospread krimmer: Gray lamb fur. kuftan: Egypt. Robe. (Foot and Legwear). Krinoline: Germany. Crinoline. kugel: See gugel. kripani: India. . kugunni: Timbuktu. A silver ring with an ovoid pro- krochmal: Poland. Starch. jection. krojac: Croatia and Serbia. Tailor. kui humahuma: United States of America. Hawaii. kroplap: See neerstick. Needle. krósça: Greece. Gold lace knitted with real gold on kui kaiapa: United States of America. Hawaii. Safety pin. spindles. kui kele: United States of America. Hawaii. Large krosto: Greece. The rolled section of the tsemberi. needle. krótkie spodnie: Poland. Knickerbockers. kui lihilihi: United States of America. Hawaii. Crochet kroumir: France. A soft leather hook. slipper-like shoe. kui ulana: United States of America. Hawaii. Knitting krpce: Slovakia. Rough leather needle. moccasins. kuiki: United States of America. Hawaii. To quilt. kruang tok: Laos. Special outfit kuitbroek: Holland. Knee-breeches. kroumir worn by the oldest son at his par- kuka: United States of America. Hawaii. Coat. ent’s burial. kuka ua: See kuka weke. krul: See ringetje. kuka weke: United States of America. Hawaii. Rain- krulletje: See ringetje. coat. kruneforkle: Norway. Apron with embroidered styl- kuka‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Bolt of cloth. ized . kuka‘aila: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally krupáca: Greece. Embroidery design for the everyday “oiled coat,” raincoat. See also kukaua and kukaweke. chemise. kukaenalo: United States of America. Hawaii. Un- kruseler headdress: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Ger- bleached muslin. many. Woman’s headdress of looped braids. kukaua: See kuka‘aila. kruzeno: Russia. Lace. kukeweke: See kuka‘aila. kruzhevo: Russia. Lace. kulah: 1. India. A stiffened and slightly domed cap krzno: Croatia and Serbia. Fur. worn under the turban. 2. Iran, Turkey. High, cylin- k’sa: Tuareg man’s draped cloak, about six yards long. drical felt hat. Worn over a kumya and pantaloons. kulahā: India. High cap. kselitsi: Greece. The jeweled ornament worn on the kulah-e kordi: Iran. Married woman’s turban made front edge of the tsemberi. from fringed scarf trimmed with sequins and braid. kshat: See sherihah. kulahī: India. Child’s cap that covers the ears. Kshauna: India. Linen. kulah-i pahlavi: Turkey. A peaked cap similar to the kshouma: India. Linen. French kepi. ksirodaka: India. A light silk stuff. kule: Korea. Girl’s richly embroidered, winter silk hat ksoulia: Greece. A bride’s small fez covered with coins. worn on outings. Has several wide ribbons with silk ktef: Morocco. Jewish woman’s velvet chemise. tassels in the back. Held on with sashes under the chin. ku: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Trousers kulgie: See culgee. kuvaa kisivilyan 167 kulia: United States of America. Hawaii. Twill. kursés: Greece. Gold lace. kullah: Persia. Pointed skullcap. kurta: 1. India. Of Parthian, Kushan, and Scythian kullu: Timbuktu. A C-shaped bracelet of silver or iron. origin, an undershirt with a four-pointed hem and kum: Palestine. Tight sleeves. ruched sleeves. 2. India. A long shirt. 3. Africa. kumach: Russia. Fustian. Smock-like long white cotton shirt. kumbi: India. Silky fiber from a white silk-cotton tree. kurta pyjama: India. Tunic and trousers ensemble. kumbit: Korea. The color gold. kurteh: Turkmenistan. Married woman’s elaborately kumkuma: India. The color saffron. embroidered coat worn with the left armseye over kummul: See kambala. the headdress. kumpi: Inca. A fine cloth. kurtéles: Greece. Purchased ribbon. kumshigye: Korea. Gold watch. kurti: 1. India. Long, sleeveless blouse worn over a kumya: 1. Morocco. Shirt that fastens down the front backless blouse. 2. Turkestan. Woman’s sleeved with closely set buttons and loops. 2. Tuareg man’s mantle worn over the head. 3. Hungary and Roma- sleeveless bodice. nia. Blue or black short jacket. kunba: India. A round crown. : 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Poland. kundala: India. A simple ring or circle earring. Short jacket with high collar and short tails edged kundalas: India. Ear-drops. with wide colored band. The tails were worn loose kundura: See cipela. in winter and hooked back together in summer. 2. kuning: Borneo. Yellow. Russia. Short jacket. kunka unku: Bolivia and Peru. Man’s poncho. kuru: New Zealand. Maori ear pendant. k’unmori: Korea. Woman’s large ceremonial hairstyle. Kurume-gasuri: Japan. Kasuri from Kurume. kunna: Timbuktu. A filigree hair ornament. Kurze hose: Germany. Shorts. kunono: United States of America. Hawaii. Bright red. kusabhia: India. A safflower-dyed cloth. kuntunkuni: 1. Ashanti. Widow’s skirt. 2. Ghana. Dark kusak: 1. Bulgaria. Short, sleeveless jacket. 2. Turkey. brown cotton or linen cloth. Embroidered waist girdle whose ends are tied in a kuokvilna: Lithuania. Cotton. looped bow in front. kupasi: Afghanistan. Woman’s headdress made of a kushak: Russia. Soldier’s girdle. heavy fabric rectangle that hangs down the back. kushma: Ecuador and Guatemala. Man’s tunic, similar Ornamented with cowrie shells, beads, pompons, to the Inca unku. It functions as a shirt. and bells. kusi: Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. An ornamental hair kupe‘e: United States of America. Hawaii. Bracelet; comb. anklet. kusljak: Hungary and Yugoslavia. Man’s mantle of kupe‘e niho ‘ilio: United States of America. Hawaii. coarse homemade woolen fabric. Dog-tooth anklets. kusma: See ‘unku. : Indonesia. Velvet cap. kussabi: United Arab Emirates. Sleeveless, knee-length kupkeh: Poland. Jewish woman’s lace cap trimmed tunic. with flowers and birds. kusti: India. Woolen cord worn as a girdle by the Parsis. kuppasam: India. A man’s jacket. kusulaka: India. Woman’s skirt. kuras: Holland. Cuirass. kutapa: India. Tibetan shawls. Kürass: See Brustharnisch. kutchi bharat: India. A form of embroidery made by kurira: India. Woman’s horn-shaped coiffure. using an awl (aar). kuri-ume: Japan. Purple with tints of yellow and red. kutsani gashti: Bulgaria. Inner pair of trousers of cot- kurligatka: Bulgaria. Apron. ton. Worn under beli potouri. kurni: Ethiopia. Ten cubit garment given to the father of kuttan: India and Persia. Flax or linen cloth. the bride by the groom. kutusoff hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 kuro: Japan. Black. C.E.). Introduced in 1813, cloth cap that turned up kuro montsuki haori: Japan. Man’s black silk haori in front, tied under the chin, and was finished with a worn for school ceremonies and mourning. feather. Named for the Russian general. kurochō: Japan. A dark blue robe worn by women at kutusoff mantle: Directoire and First Empire (1790– weddings. 1815 C.E.). Made in fabric to match the kutusoff hat, kuro-ume-zome: Japan. Dark purplish red color. had high puckered collar and shoulder width lapels. kurpasaka: India. Royal person’s long, sleeveless coat; Fastened at neck with a brooch. woman’s bodice. ku‘uwelu: United States of America. Hawaii. Sarong. kurpasika: India. Woman’s bodice-like garment. kuvaa kisivilyan: Swahili. To wear civilian clothes. This kurpė: Lithuania. Shoe. term refers to policemen in off-duty clothing. 168 kuvala kuvala: India. A short sari that reaches to just below the kyahan: Japan. Leggings. genitals. kyaphi: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). A perfume, suppos- kuvinda: India. A weaver. edly the favorite of Cleopatra. k’uyu: Bolivia. Made from handspun sheep’s wool, a kyara-abura: Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. Literally white cloth. “aloewood oil,” a cosmetic paste of solid fat used to kuze: Czechoslovakia. Leather. shape a man’s knot of hair. kuzufu: Japan. A cloth woven from kuzu vine. kyne: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Soldier’s leather helmet. kuzununo: See kuzufu. kyonjingmul: Korea. Silk fabrics. kwasida adinkera: Ghana. White or yellow cloth with kyorhon panji: Korea. Wedding ring. bands of yellow, black, red, and white. kyorhon yak’on panji: Korea. Engagement ring. kwef: Poland. Veil. Kyo-zome: Japan. Dyeing done in Kyoto. kwigoi: Korea. Earring. kyrbasia: Mesopotamia. Hat similar to the Phrygian kwitsa pargates: Ecuador. A young girl’s sandals. bonnet. kwun: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of Amer- kyrtill: See kirtle. ica. Chinese Hawaiian term for a skirt. L

la: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic (1350– la Mignene: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, wom- 1450 C.E.). Sweden. Bride’s chaplet, an embroidered an’s mantle with three volants. band or fabric band decorated with silver ornaments. la Ophelia: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, mantilla lã: Portugal. Woolen fabric. trimmed at the hem, elbow, front, and back seams la bolsa: Mexico. Large fold in the front of a Zoque In- with a double puff of silk. It had a single fall of lace dian woman’s skirt (el costal). from the bottom edge, a double fall on the sleeves. la Bretelle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s la pliant: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Steel invention cloak trimmed with broad moiré or velvet ribbon. from 1896 which held out the hem of women’s skirts la Ciré: Cotton fabric combining seersucker, piqué, and in the back. Could be used in different skirts. leno characteristics. la Princesse: Crinoline (1840–1865 la coiffure Diane: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, C.E.). Worn for evening, a wire- pearl ornament held in place on the chignon by a framed, velvet-covered cap gold or silver arrow. trimmed with braided ribbon. la comptesse Walewski: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In la Puritana: See Puritan. 1854, gossamer lace shawl embroidered with glossy lá sen: Vietnam. Semi-circular straw. It had an embroidered flounce. collar on a blouse. la Equestrienné: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, la Stella: Crinoline (1840–1865 woman’s cloth habit. Skirt was trimmed with velvet C.E.). In 1850s, mantilla that buttons. Short jacket was trimmed with the same was lightly fitted in the body. and loops of braid. Habit included a habit-shirt and The basquin had two flounces la Princesse sleeves of cambric. with deep scallops. Sleeves flared to the wrist. la Esmeralda: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, man- la vierge: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Literally “infant’s tilla with a fitted body. Skirt had two deep falls of waist,” bodice with the front gathered in a fan shape. white lace. Elbow-length sleeves were finished with la‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Width of cloth. two white lace falls. laars: Holland. Boot. la Grange: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, woman’s la‘au su‘isu‘i: Samoa. Sewing machine. cloth basquine with a waist-length bertha. It was labaada: See chuga. trimmed with velvet ribbon in a Greek pattern and labādā: See cogā. fringe. labang: Borneo. White. la Hermione: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, semi- labarikada: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s close-fitting cap fitted, glacé silk mantilla. It was trimmed with six with earflaps. rows of quilled ribbon. label cloth: Sized cotton fabric used for tags and labels. la Manuela: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, black labong: Borneo. 1. Man’s handkerchief, usually deco- taffeta Spanish mantilla trimmed with a deep sewing- rated. 2. Man’s cap of woven cane. silk fringe and a row of Guipure lace. labrada: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Embroi- la Marguerite: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Velvet man- dered. tle closely fitted in the bodice with a full sacque skirt. labret: Mayan. Lip-plug worn through a perforation in Edged in therry velvet. the lower lip.

169 170 lacca

lacca: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Precious red smooth, shiny, black chau with a rust colored under- dye. surface. It was used to make holiday clothing. lacerna: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Coarse wool, short Laibli: Germany. Sleeveless bodice that fastens down circular cape worn by the lower classes. the front. The armseyes, neck, and front are deco- lacet: 1. Silk or cotton braid used in lace. 2. Braid used rated with braid. May be plain or embroidered. to cover seams in upholstery. lainakini: United States of America. Hawaii. Navy blue Lachen: See Tuoch. cloth. lachet: See herlot. laine: France. Worsted or woolen fabric. lacing protector: Placket of fabric that spans the gap laine foulard: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in between the lacing on a corset. This allows the lacing 1861, silk and wool blend washing silk. to draw smoothly and protects the wearer’s skin. laipeid: Ireland. Gaelic word for lappet. lacing studs: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1897, laj kadvu: India. The wearing of a veil over the face. oval brass hooks used on men’s shoes for lacing. laj karvu: See laj kadvu. lacis: Square net foundation on which darned laces are lájbi: 1. Hungary. Black brocade waistcoat trimmed made. with metal, bone and glass buttons, and braid. 2. lad: Norway. From the old Norse word, hlað or hlaða Romania. Vest. (to lay something in a certain order, on top of each lájish: Navajo. Glove. other or side by side). Headdress decorated with laka: India. The border of a garment. ornaments attached to an unseen base layer of fabric. lake: 1. Clear purplish red. 2. Byzantine and Roman- laddie, come follow me: See beau-catcher. esque (400–1200 C.E.) to Renaissance (1450–1550 läder: Sweden. Leather. C.E.). United Kingdom. Middle English word for ladva: India. Literally “sweet,” a small round tattoo on fine linen. a woman’s chin. lakeke: United States of America. Hawaii. Jacket; blouse. Lady Alice sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, laken: Holland. Cloth. small bishop sleeve gathered to cuffed band. lal: India. The color scarlet. Lady Diana hat: Crinoline (1840– lalaga: Samoa. To weave. 1865 C.E.). In 1862, leghorn straw lalatantuja: India. A variety of silk. hat with double turn. lalatika: India. Pendant worn on a chain in the center of lady’s cloth: Variety of light- a woman’s forehead. weight, woolen broadcloth. laliàn: China. Zipper. la‘ei: Samoa. Clothes. lamak: 1. Indonesia. Long, narrow textiles used as laeloa: United States of America. hangings before shrines. 2. See phaa chet naa. Hawaii. Kind of wine red cotton lāmann: See lāmind. cloth. lamb mena: Madagascar. Literally “red cloth,” burial lafa’if: Palestine. Attached to the shroud. smadeh, two long bands of fabric lamba: 1. Madagascar. Brightly colored shawl or man- used to bind the hair. Held on tle; generic term for fabric. 2. Fabric of date leaves Lady Diana hat with silver chin chain. made and worn by some African natives. laffayef : Palestine. Woman’s hairband. lamba maitso: Madagascar. Literally “green cloth,” laffeh: Palestine. Man’s turban made from Syrian silk mourning fabric. or cotton fabric, often striped or checked. Fringed on lamba soratra: Madagascar. Patterned fabric. the ends. lambahoany: Madagascar. Man’s hip wrap. lafun: Nigeria. Starch paste used as a resist. lamballe: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Silk scarf laggosszárú csizma: See keményszárú csizma. trimmed in lace. Named for the Princesse de Lamballe. lagidigba: Nigeria. Yoruba woman’s waist beads. Lamballe bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- lagos: Africa. Coarse, irregular, brownish cotton fabric. dom. Introduced in 1865, very small straw bonnet lah: See qatifah-i-purbi. with a slightly curved brim that was worn flat on the lahalile: United States of America. Hawaii. Dark navy head and tied under the chin. Sometimes had a veil blue calico with a small white print or dots. in back or lace lappets on the sides. laharia: See . lambana: India. A long necklace. lahariyo: India. Zigzag-patterned scarf. See also lahasyo. lamboys: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Elizabethan lahasyo: See lahariyo. (1550–1625 C.E.). Knee-length steel skirt worn as part lahra patora: India. Skirts. of armor. lai kee wat chau: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United lambrequin: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Scarf worn States of America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a over the helmet as protection from the elements. lärft 171 lambsdown: Heavy, knitted, wool fabric with a thick Langtry hood: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- nap on one side. dom. Worn in 1880s, woman’s detachable hood worn lambskin: 1. Leather made from the skin of a lamb with any outer garment. less than two months old. 2. Lambskin that has been languette: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. dressed with the wool on it. 3. Cotton or wool fabric Used from c1818 to 1822, flat trim used on skirts and with a napped, fleecy surface. 4. White leather apron pelisses. worn by freemasons. languti: India. Loincloth. lamé: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). lãnh: Vietnam. Taffeta. Fabric woven of strips of metal. 2. Fabric made of lanilla estampada: Spain. Delaine. metallic thread. lansdowne: Fine, wiry, plain or twill weave fabric lamhain: Ireland. Glove. with silk warp and worsted weft used for women’s làmhainn: Ireland. Glove; especially a kid glove. dresses. làmhan: Ireland. Glove; gauntlet. lantern sleeve: Bell shaped sleeve with circular wrist. lamhas: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for glove. lanumoana: Samoa. Blue. làmh-fhàil: Ireland. Bracelet. lanzadera: Ecuador and Guatemala. or bobbin. lāmind: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for glove. lap: 1. Tab. 2. To fold over. 3. Part of garment covering Lamm: Germany. Lamb fur. lower part of body. 4. Folded section of garment used lammie: See lammy. as a pocket. lammy: Sailor’s quilted sweater. lapa: Germany. Woman’s white or pastel large padded lamouxa: Greece. . headdress. : 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). lapel: Part of garment that folds over, especially the Fabric with an elaborate, ornamental design. 2. Fab- front neckline of a garment. ric with two or more color jacquard. lapel pin: Small pin worn on lapel. lampasi: Russia. Stripe down the side of dress trousers. lapela: Portugal. Coat lapel. lampshade dress: (1910–1920 C.E.). Double tiered dress lapin: France and Italy. Loosely sheared fur of rabbit with the top tier wired out in the shape of a lamp- dyed in fanciful shade. shade. Lapin: Germany. Lapin fur. lan: Croatia and Serbia. Flax. lapiz lazuli: Semi-precious dark blue gemstone. lan yu: China. Dark blue feathers from a crow’s tail. Lapland beaver: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced lana: Ecuador, Guatemala, Italy, and Spain. Wool. in 1859, twill weave fabric with plush face used for lāna: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Wool. capes and other outdoor garments. lana de alpaca: Spain. Alpaca wool. Lapland bonnet: Lapland. Traditional four pointed jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1859, bonnet. Three of the points were stuffed with down, woman’s jacket with points at the hips. Had mous- the fourth served as a purse. quetaire sleeves. lap-mantle: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Rug for the landrines: Louis XIII. Men’s boots with flared tops that knees. were turned down for riding. lapot: Russia. Shoe made of strips of the inner bark from landy: Madagascar. Silk. the birch or lime tree and laced together. láng: Vietnam. Black taffeta. lappa: 1. Nigeria. Ibo man’s long skirt. It is a cloth worn langar: India. Close-fitting anklet of gold or silver, stud- wound around the middle and then twisted and ded with precious stones. tucked over at the top in front. On the Delta, it lange: Swaddling cloth. is worn fastened on the side. 2. Sierra Leone. A length Lange hose: Germany. Trousers; slacks. of cotton or silk cloth that is worn around the waist langet: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance as a skirt. (1450–1550 C.E.). 1. Lace or thong for closing a gar- lappa cloth: West African fabric made from narrow ment. 2. Plume on a knight’s helmet. strips that are sewn together. langettes: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). String of beads. lapped sleeve: Short sleeve with portion of fabric langgu lungping: Borneo. Earring. folded to front or back simulating a seam. langkit: Philippine Islands. Separately woven bands on lappenmutze: Poland. Jewish man’s cap with ear flaps. a . lappet: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– langooty: India. Small loincloth. 1890 C.E.). Pendant pieces of headdress that hang langoti: India. A narrow loincloth. on the sides or behind the head. Plain or trimmed Langtry bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Small, close- in lace. fitting bonnet. Named for the famous actress Lilly laranja: Portugal. Orange colored. Langtry. lärft: Sweden. Linen. 172 larga

larga: See puntada recta. bric used to make ruffs, cuffs, handkerchiefs, aprons, lark: Pale buff color. or shirts. larkspur: Light blue with pale greenish tinge. laylock: See lilac. larrigan: Knee-high boot with a moccasin foot worn by lazarines: See landrines. lumbermen and trappers. lazo de entorchado: Spain. Frog. lāsa: Ireland. Lace. lazouri: Greece. 1. A type of embroidery. 2. Cotton em- lasdadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for lace. broidery thread. laseh: Palestine. Rectangle of white silk or cotton net- lazur: Poland. Azure. ting with metallic wire. Worn by women as a head lazúrja: Greece. Embroidery, embroidered the same on covering. both sides. lashdóón: Navajo. Ribbon. lazurowy: Poland. Azure colored. laska: Poland. Walking stick. le Bijou: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, woman’s lasoa: Madagascar. A silk cloth. wrap with a V-shaped yoke, a tulle skirt, and a lasting boots: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Boots with the pleated flounce. Trimmed with gauze ribbon and uppers made of black cashmere. satin stripes. lasuor: China. Zipper. le Caprice: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, sack latão: Portugal. Brass. cloak with cape sleeves. Trimmed with velvet, em- latch buckle: Lapped belt buckle with metal swivel broidery, and ostrich feathers. closing. le crapaud: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Silk bag latchet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Lace, thong, or for the ponytail at the back of men’s wigs. strap that fastens shoe or sandal. le gilet: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Sleeveless laticlaves: See clavi. men’s vest, with back of light fabric with lacing to látsíní: Navajo. Bracelet. make it fit the form. Lätzchen: See Schurze. le Gitana: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, hooded lau: Indonesia. Women’s waist garments that use beads circular talma trimmed with plush. and shells in embroidery as a form of decoration. la jupon Imperatrice: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, lau pahudu: Sumba. Women’s . cambric petticoat heavily starched. Six yards in circum- lauhitaka: India. A red fabric. ference. Supposedly invented by Empress Eugenie. duck: Variety of wide duck fabrics used to le printemps mantilla: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In cover rolls in laundry machines. 1854, one-piece silk mantilla that was trimmed with lauoho: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally a deep fringe. “head leaf,” the hair on the head. le Savage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Fringe of feathers lauoho ku‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally and jet. “added hair,” a hair switch. leacadan: Ireland. Gaelic word for chin cloth or child’s láurea: Portugal. Crown of laurel. bib. lava-lava: Samoa. Loincloth of printed calico worn by leading strings: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to the natives. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Long narrow ribbons of lavaliere: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Necklace with fabric that were attached to the shoulders of small a pendant, popularized by Louise de la Valiere, mis- children’s garments to hold them when they began tress of Louis XIV. to walk. lavanda: Italy and Spain. Lavender. leadworks: See wheat ears. lavende: France. Lavender. leaf green: Medium green. lavender: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to present. United leather cloth: United Kingdom. Cheap variety of melton. Kingdom. Light violet color. Leatherette: Trade name for paper or cloth imitation Laveuse costume: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced leather. in 1876, day dress with an overskirt (tunic) that was leatherine: Imitation leather made from calico with rub- folded up, draped on the sides, gathered in back, and ber coating. buttoned in place. leaves: See wheat ears. Lavinia: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Color of Wedg- lechugilla: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Ruff. wood. lecric: Romania. Short, sleeved vest of thick feathers. Lavinia hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Leda cloth: Wool velvet. See also velours de laine. C.E.). Fashionable in 1807, variety of the gipsy hat. leder: Holland. Leather. lavreg: See bragou. Leder: Germany. Leather. lawn: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to 20th century. : Austria. Form of leather shorts with or- Originally made in Laon, France, fine linen or cam- nately embroidered suspenders. lelingkok 173 ledersen: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. lei papahi: United States of America. Hawaii. Adorn- Combination legging and shoes. ment of several leis. leðr: Norway. Old word for leather. lei pauku: United States of America. Hawaii. Lei with leefekye: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan sections of varying colors. (1550–1625 C.E.). Bodice. lei pawehe: See lei pauku. Leek button: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Patented in lei po‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. Lei worn on 1842, covered button with a flexible . the head. leetsoii: Navajo. Yellow. lei wiliwili: United States of America. Hawaii. Lei of lefhah: See shal. wiliwili seeds. leg of mutton sleeves: Romantic Leibchen: Germany. Bodice. (1815–1840 C.E.). Worn from 1828 leiber: Bulgaria. Waist-length, sleeveless jacket. to 1837, popular sleeve with a leibi: Germany. Woman’s fitted bodice or dress. huge puff at the top of the sleeve Leibli: See Laibli. that narrows to a fitted wrist. Re- Leicester jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United vived from 1893 to 1899. Kingdom. In 1857, man’s British tailored lounge leghorn: Finely plaited straw. jacket. leheria: India. A resist dyeing lein: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic (1350– technique. 1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Linen. lehnga: India. A style in which Lein: See Flachs. the antariya is worn like a skirt. leine: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). lei: 1. Samoa. Ivory. 2. United Bulgaria. Sleeveless, ankle-length tunic in white or States of America. Hawaii. A natural colors. garland or necklace of flowers, léine: Ireland. Large linen smock or shirt with wide leaves, shells, ivy, feathers, or pa- sleeves worn by both genders. Usually dyed yellow. per given as a sign of affection. Also known as saffron shirt. lei ‘a‘i: United States of America. leine croich: Scotland. Saffron shirt of 24 ells worn Hawaii. Necktie. belted at the waist. From 15th century, characteristic leg of mutton sleeves lei ali‘i: United States of America. garment of Highlands. Hawaii. Royal lei. léineag: Ireland. Little shirt. lei hala: United States of America. Hawaii. Lei of pan- léine-aifrionn: Ireland. Surplice. danus keys. It is considered bad luck. léine-bhàn: Ireland. Smock worn by transgressors of lei hoaka: United States of America. Hawaii. Necklace ecclesiastical law. of hog’s tusks. léine-chaol: Ireland. White linen shirt. lei hulu: United States of America. Hawaii. Feather lei, léine-chròich: Ireland. Knee-length, saffron shirt or formerly worn only by royalty. mantle worn by people of upper rank. It consisted lei kamoe: United States of America. Hawaii. Feather lei of 24 ells of fabric and was worn belted around the with the feathers tightly folded together. waist. lei kolona: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally Leinen: Germany. Linen. “crown,” a rosary. léine-sheacair: Ireland. Narrow striped or pleated lei korona: See lei kolona. shirt. lei kukui: United States of America. Hawaii. Lei of léine-thuilinn: Ireland. Shirt of twilled linen. candlenut seeds. léinteag: Ireland. Little shirt. lei leho: United States of America. Hawaii. Lei of cowry Leinwand: See Leinen. shells. leis-bheart: Ireland. Gaelic word for armor for the thigh lei niho ‘ilio: United States of America. Hawaii. Dog- or trousers. tooth necklace. leis-bhrat: Ireland. Gaelic word for a pair of trousers. lei ole: United States of America. Hawaii. Dog-tooth lei. lejfa: Ecuador and Guatemala. Lye. lei ‘opu‘u: United States of America. Hawaii. Pointed leki: United States of America. Hawaii. Tape used as whale tooth pendant. dress trim. lei palaoa: United States of America. Hawaii. Ivory pen- lekmann detsmira: Morocco. Woman’s separate white dant; necklace of beads of whale’s teeth. voile sleeves. lei pani‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. Lei with a lelesepun: Celebes. Funeral shroud. See also poritutu spiral design of color. roto. lei papa: United States of America. Hawaii. Flat lei, as lelieblank: Holland. Lily white. for a hat. lelingkok: Borneo. Zigzag. 174 lemba

lemba: Indonesia. Tiny pieces of mica sewn onto a gar- Middle English word for leather. ment. leth-ruadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for reddish brown. lembe: Indonesia. The sacred shoulder wrap worn by letnik: Russia. Outer garment that is part of holiday royalty. dress for women. lemister: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan lettered silk: Originally, Oriental fabric decorated with (1550–1625 C.E.). Fine wool used for knitted caps, letters, words, or sentences. Now, any such silk commonly Herfordshire wool. fabric. lemmetør klœde: Denmark. Handkerchief. lettice: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to lemon yellow: Color of lemon fruit. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Pale gray fur similar lemster: See lemister. to ermine. len: Czechoslovakia, Poland, and Russia. Flax. lettice bonnet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Woman’s lencería: Spain. Lingerie. warm bonnet of lettice cut to cover the ears. lenço: Portugal. Handkerchief. lettice cap: See lettice bonnet. lenço de sêda da india: Portugal. Bandanna. lettice ruff: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Ruff resem- lendener: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Germany. Tight bling lettuce. tunic of very tight but pliable leather, sometimes lettuce green: Light yellowish green. sleeveless, but usually with short sleeves. Elaborately leug: Ireland. Gaelic word for precious stone or jewel. trimmed. leung mo: China. Traditional coolie hat. lēne: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for shirt. levantine: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Used in 1820 lenn: Ireland. Gaelic word for cloak. See also brat. and after, very soft velvet with a satin finish. 2. leno: Loose, open fabric in leno weave. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Richly faced, twill weave leno brocade: Leno fabric with a figure brocaded on it. silk, similar to surah. 3. Glossy faced, twill weave, leno weave: Weave involving the yarns being twisted cotton fabric. around each other in a figure eight. levantine folicé: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced lentejuela: Spain. Sequin; spangle. in 1837, soft rich silk with an arabesque pattern. Leonese: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, woman’s leviathan canvas: Coarse, open, double canvas used for cloth pardessus with a fitted basque, full skirt, and Berlin work. flowing sleeves. Deep bertha reached a point over levite: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Polonaise made the arms. Pardessus had border of plush. of dimity or muslin and trimmed or bordered in leopard: 1. Short pale fawn or light orange fur with dark chintz. brown spots from the leopard (Felix pardus). 2. Italy levite gown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Trained and Spain. Leopard fur. redingote. Leopard: Germany. Leopard fur. Lexington cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, léopard: France. Leopard fur. woman’s half-yoked, fitted front, velvet cloak leotard: Stretch material garment reaching from neck to trimmed with moiré buttons. groin. Originally developed by trapeze artist, Jules lézard: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, lizard green. Leotard. lezim: Morocco. Silver clasp on the endema. leotardo: Spain. Leotards. lhani: India. Parrot green. lepela: Portugal. Lapel. lì: China. Large bamboo or straw hat with conical leÞer: United Kingdom. Old English word for leather. crown and broad brim. leperhose: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). li kakini: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally United Kingdom. Leather boot. “tie stockings,” garters. le-phuc: Vietnam. Formal dress. li kaliki: United States of America. Hawaii. Corset leppi: Cameroon. Man’s full-length robe. lace. ler: France. Breton for leather. li kama‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Shoelace. lerept: Norway. Old word for linen items. liagh-dhealg: Ireland. Gaelic word for button. lerion: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). liàn: China. White silk. Worn in 12th century, fur of the dormouse. liang dang: China. Northern man’s waistcoat. les shorts: See hot pants. liang dang kai: China. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern leso: Kiamu. Woman’s tobe. dynasties. Hard metal or leather vest armor worn let: Borneo. Green and blue glassy beads. over heavy waistcoat. lethar: Ireland. Gaelic word for leather. liang mao: China. Flat circular hat of woven straw and leth-bhòt: Ireland. Buskin. bamboo with hole in center for crown of the head. lether: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) lià njiaokù: China. Infant’s footed pants. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. liá nyiqú n: China. Woman’s dress. Lincoln green 175 liars: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Wires that sup- lilac gray: Pale lavender gray. ported the fichu. lilack: See lilac. liath: Ireland. Gaelic word for gray. lila-röz: Poland. Mauve. liath ghorm: Ireland. Gaelic word for cerulean blue. lilás: Portugal. Lilac colored. liath-ghuirme: Ireland. Gaelic word for light blue. lilina: United States of America. Hawaii. Linen; flax. liath-phurpur: Ireland. Gaelic word for mauve. lilit: Borneo. Gold embroidered braid. libá: Navajo. Gray. Lille à fond clair: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. libade: Romania. Short bodice of the cinduse. A bobbin lace with a simple unplaited ground and libas: 1. Egypt. Very wide cotton pantaloons. 2. See small motifs contoured with thicker thread. sirwal. Lille lace: Fine bobbin lace with the patterns outlined in libbadeh: Palestine. Man’s white or gray felt cap worn a heavy, flat cordonnet. over the taqiyeh and under the tarbush maghribi. Lily Benjamin: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Common Liberty art silks: Bustle (1854–1890 C.E.). Made first term for man’s white overcoat. in 1870s, artistically designed silk of an Indian lily feet: China. Term referring to the condition of feet weave. when bound in the traditional manner. Style began : Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.) to 1960– in 1200 C.E. with the birth of the Princess Taki who 1969 C.E. Boneless training corset for young girls. was born with club feet. Her tiny feet were copied liberty cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 by binding the feet of infants. Foot binding became a C.E.). France. Soft, closely fitted cap worn as symbol penal offense in 1912. of liberty. Lily Langtry coiffure: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Hairstyle liburnica: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s cloak. popularized by English actress and friend of Edward lichen: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, mossy green. VII, Lily Langtry. Low chignon with curls around lichíí: Navajo. Red. forehead. lichtbruin: Holland. Nut brown. lima: United States of America. Hawaii. Sleeve. licinium: Linen loincloth. lima puha‘uha‘u: United States of America. Hawaii. lid: Slang term for hat. Puffed sleeve. lie de Bordeaux: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, deep limào: China. Hat for formal dress. claret color. limbrick: United Kingdom. Soft, lightweight, plain lièn: France. Breton for linen. weave, cotton fabric. liencillo: Ecuador. Fine handwoven plain cotton cloth. lime green: Greenish yellow. lienzo: 1. Ecuador. Handwoven plain-weave cotton límec: Czechoslovakia. Collar cloth. 2. Spain. Linen. Limerick gloves: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to lienzo de algodón: Spain. Broadcloth. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s fine leather lienzo de la India: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. gloves, either short or long, said to be made from the East Indian cotton. skin of unborn lambs or calves. lierre lace: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1896, fine : Machine-made net with a muslin appli- cream net sparsely figured. que and buttonhole edge. lifú: China. Ceremonial dress. limiste: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Woolen liga: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Garter. material. lightfastness: The degree to which a dyed textile resists limousine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Thick, rough woolen the color-destroying effects of light. fabric. lightgroen: Holland. Pea green. Limpet trunks: (1930–1940 C.E.). United Kingdom. ligne empire: France. Empire line. Men’s made from Lastex yarn and bot- lihaf: Oman. Gauzy shawl worn by women over the any wool. They had no belt or side seams and fitted head and shoulders and tucked under the chin. smoothly over the hips. lihilihi ‘ula: United States of America. Hawaii. Narrow lin: 1. France and Ireland. Linen. 2. Norway. Old word band of red, as on a shirt. for linen. 3. Norway. Bridal veil. 4. See lien. lijf: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Décolleté līn: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for linen. bodice. lînă: Romania. Wool. lijfje: Holland. Bodice. linaga: Transvaal. Ndebele bride’s sheepskin cape. lijnne: Norway. Shawl. linai: Lithuania. Flax. lijnwaad: See linnen. lince: Italy and Spain. Lynx fur. lila: Holland. Lilac colored. linchi: Ecuador. Knotted net tote bags. lilac: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to present. Light Lincoln green: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Best green tint of violet. dye, done in Lincoln, United Kingdom. 176 Lindbergh jacket

Lindbergh jacket: United States of America. Man’s linteum: See līnum. short overcoat with a fitted waistband and wrists. Lintrock: Germany. Skirt with linen strings. Popularized by the American flier, Charles Lind- līnum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Flax. bergh, in his 1927 flight across the Atlantic. Līnwāt: See Līnen. lindi: Norway. Old Norse word for belt. liocadan: Ireland. Gaelic word for chin cloth. lindiana: Crepe weave, worsted, and silk fabric. līon: Ireland. Linen. lindraki: Lithuania. Skirt. lionceau: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, dark linea imperio: Spain. Empire line. fawn color. linea impero: Italy. Empire line. lìon-cinn: Ireland. Hairnet. linen: Fabric made from stem of flax plant. lipa bannang: Celebes. Dark cotton plaid sarong. līnen: United Kingdom. Old English word for linen. lipa garrusu: Celebes. Reserved for nobility, a cotton Līnen: Germany. Linen. sarong that is starched and rubbed with seashell to linen mesh: Open mesh knit fabric used for infants’ produce a glaze. shirts. Often of linen and cotton blend. lipine: 1. Samoa. Ribbon. 2. United States of America. linene: Cotton fabric finished to imitate linen. Hawaii. Ribbon. linenette: Cotton fabric made to imitate linen. lipine silika: Samoa. Silk ribbon. líng: China. Damask silk. liripipe: Early Gothic (1200–1350 ling tao: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). From C.E.). Long streamer attached 1850 to 1911, man’s small, plain, stiffened collar that to a headdress. Name comes was worn over the pu fu. Made of silk, velvet, or fur from liripium. and was sometimes worn with the pi ling. liripium: Early Gothic (1200–1350 ling yue: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Gold, C.E.). Hood with pointed top. jeweled collar inlaid with pearls and coral. Worn by lìsè: China. Chestnut color; ma- imperial ladies on very formal occasions. roon. linge: France. White linen, or linen underwear. liseré: 1. Directoire and First Em- lingerie hat: Lace or embroidery hat. pire (1790–1815 C.E.). Weft lingerie hem: Tiny rolled hem. thread in a fabric. 2. Brightly Lingette: Trade name for soft, satin weave, mercerized finished, split straw braid. 3. sateen woven in stripes of self-color. Cord or braid used as binding. lingjié: China. Bow tie. lisle: Fabric made of lisle yarn, liripipe lingjin: China. Neckerchief. a fine, hard-twisted cotton lingkòu: China. Collar button; collar stud. thread. Named for the Flemish town where first lingüeta: Portugal. Tongue of a shoe. made. lingzi: China. Collar. Lisle lace: See Lille lace. linha: Portugal. Sewing thread. lisse: 1. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Introduced in linho: Portugal. Linen. 1894, uncrushable chiffon. 2. Filmy silk gauze. lini: Lithuania. Flax. lissto: Norway. Ribbon. linne: See lärft. Lissue: United Kingdom. Trade name for fine mercer- linned: See lœrred. ized cotton handkerchiefs. linnen: Holland. Linen. lista: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Strip of linnseach: Ireland. Gaelic word for linen fabric. fabric applied to a garment to suggest a stripe. 2. linnseach thrusaidh: Ireland. Gaelic word for linen Ecuador. Stripe. packing cloth. listado: Bolivia. Striped. lino: 1. See tela de lino. 2. See lienzo. listadoes: United Kingdom. Colored cotton fabric made lino irlandes: Spain. Irish linen. for export. linon: 1. Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Flax. 2. France. Cot- listao ponch: Bolivia. Popular poncho with black or ton lawn. burgundy ground. linsey: United Kingdom. Strong, coarse, durable fabric. listónes: Mexico. Ribbons. linsey-woolsey: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to pres- litewka: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). ent. United Kingdom. Coarse linen and wool or cot- Prussia. Winter overcoat. ton and wool fabric made in Linsey, Suffolk. : Bedouin. Distinguishing mark of dress, face- linstock: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Pike with cloth worn by Tuareg women. Those of noble fam- branches shaped like a bird’s head on each side to ily wear black or blue and commoners wear white. hold lighted match. Reveals the eyes, part of the forehead, and all of the lint: Holland. Ribbon. cheeks. London Fog 177 : (1930–1940 C.E.). Integral part of loafer: (1940–1950 C.E. to present). Slip-on leather shoe every woman’s wardrobe. Dress with simple lines, with a low heel. Based on the moccasin of American short or cap sleeves, full busted bodice, and slightly Indians. flared skirt suitable for day, cocktail, or theater wear. loba: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Long, sleeve- Introduced by Coco Chanel. less garment. little girl collar: Narrow round collar, smaller than the lobas compridas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. . Long gowns. little hennin: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Shortened lobe: Spain. Wolf. cone headdress. lobogó s: Romania. Man’s long, loose-sleeved shirt. Of- Little Lord Fauntleroy dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to ten has embroidered collar and cuffs. 20th century. Introduced in 1886, young boy’s fash- lobster helmet: Charles I and the Commonwealth ion made of a velvet tunic, velvet knickerbockers, (1625–1660 C.E.). United Kingdom. Open helmet and a wide lace collar, with a wide waist sash with worn in . the loose ends hanging to one hip. Lochstickerei: Germany. Broderie anglaise. little Venetian edging: Lace edging similar to Brussels lockram: United Kingdom. Coarse, cheap linen fabric. edging. loden: 1. Thick, coarse, woolen, waterproof fabric. 2. Litze: See Tresse. Generally made in dark green or charcoal loden, a liùsb: Ireland. Woman’s tattered skirt. full-cut overcoat with a shoulder yoke. liver brown: Dull reddish brown. loden green: Characteristic color of loden. livery lace: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle lodier: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 (1865–1890 C.E.). Worsted braid woven with the C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Thick pad worn household’s design. on the hips to increase their bulk. lizard: Leather from lizard skins. lodix: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Psila made in Ve- lizhin: Navajo. Black. rona. ljubičast: Bosnia. Purple colored. lœder: Denmark and Germany. Leather. ljubičasta boja: Bosnia. Purple. loer: France. Breton for stocking. llacota: See llakolla. lœrred: Denmark and Germany. Linen goods. llakolla: Bolivia and Peru. Large cloak. loft: The thickness and resilience of batting. llambu: Ecuador. Quichua term for a self-couching logia: Greece. Silk . stitch. logwood brown: Reddish brown. llano: 1. Ecuador. Self-couching stitch. 2. Renaissance loincloth: Band of material worn around the hips like (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Plain. a short skirt. llanque: Peru. A sandal. lóipíní: See mairtíní. llautu: 1. Ecuador and Guatemala. Incan headband lokalio: See lei kolona. worn wrapped around the head several times. 2. lokcan: Java. Silk slendang. Peru. Fringed vicuna wool cord worn on the head as lole: United States of America. Hawaii. Generic term a sign of nobility in ancient times. for clothes. llawban: Wales. Felt. lole komo: See lole. llawto: Peru. Headband worn by the Inca emperor. lole lauoho: United States of America. Hawaii. Sack- lledr: Wales. Leather. cloth of hair. lliain: Wales. Linen. lole moe po: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally llica llica ahuaska: Peru. A thin fabric. “night-sleeping clothes,” nightgown. lliclla: 1. Bolivia. Cloak-like mantle. 2. Peru. Wrapping lole paikau: United States of America. Hawaii. Regalia. blanket. lole wawae: United States of America. Hawaii. Trou- lliglla: Ecuador. Quichua term for a woman’s rectangu- sers; pants. lar shawl worn pinned on the chest. lole wawae moe po: United States of America. Hawaii. llijlla: Bolivia. Woman’s mantle. Literally “trousers for night sleeping,” pajamas. : 1. Ecuador. Aztec term for a shawl. 2. Bolivia lole wawae puha‘uha‘u: United States of America. Ha- and Peru. Worn as a shawl, two woven rectangles waii. Bloomers. sewn together to form an almost square piece of lomme: Denmark. Pocket. fabric. lon: Vietnam. Stripe; chevron. llin: Wales. Flax. lona: Spain. Canvas; duck. llodrau: Wales. Trousers. London cut: See drape cut. llogell: Wales. Pocket. London dust: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). French gray. lloq’e: Bolivia. Z-spun or S-spun yarn. London Fog: Trademark name for classic poplin raincoat. 178 London mud

London mud: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Dull dark lorica squamata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Scale brown. armor made from small metal sections wired to each London smoke: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Gray. other and sewn to fabric base. long: China. Five-clawed dragon embroidery worn by the loros: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Scarf emperor, the empress’s sons, princes, and some nobles. worn by the emperor. long Duvallier: See Duvillier wig. lorum: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). long johns: Slang term for thermal underwear. Worn by Byzantine court from eighth to the 12th long Melford: United Kingdom. Long stocking purse. centuries, long narrow scarf, six to eight inches wide, long pao: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). and worn wrapped around the body. Evolved into Imperial ladies’ semi-formal, official dress, a side- long sash with head opening. fastening robe embroidered with five-clawed drag- losse japon: Holland. Teagown. ons. Had long sleeves with horse hoof cuffs. lostenn: See broz. long-bào: Vietnam. Imperial robe. lót: Vietnam. Garment lining. : Fine, plain weave, cotton fabric with a soft loth: Ireland. Gaelic word for beard. finish. lotus flowers: See external high shoes. long-con: Vietnam. Imperial robe. lotus seeds: See external high shoes. long-drawers: India. Pajamas. Lou Lura cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, longline bra: Brassiere which reaches down to waist. shawl with a double point in front. Bertha-style longotte: France. Coarse, stout, heavy, plain weave cot- hood. Trimmed with velvet ribbon. ton fabric. Louis XIII corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United : Burma. Sarong-like skirt. Kingdom. Introduced in 1850, woman’s day corsage Lonjumeau dress: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, or a pelisse-robe that was open in the center to show walking dress with a Greek pattern of velvet or gal- a chemisette or cambric pleats or embroidery. loon. Had full sleeves. Corsage trimmed with bretelle. Louis XIV sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- lontra: Italy. Otter fur. duced in 1850, sleeve that was widest at the bottom loo mask: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Geor- and trimmed with rows of fluted trim. Worn with gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Half mask worn by women to undersleeve or engageante. cover only the upper part of the face. Louisa mantilla: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, looking glass silk: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Intro- mantilla with a circular back and scarf-shaped front. duced in 1892, glacé fabric with trace of moiré. Flat collar. Edged with a very deep fringe. loongee: Afghanistan. Blue silk and cotton blend hand- Louise mantelet: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, kerchief. loosely fitted silk mantelet trimmed with volants, lopi: United States of America. Hawaii. Thread. embroidery, and fringe. lopi ho‘oholoholo: United States of America. Hawaii. louisine: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Used in 1880s, very Basting thread. thin surah silk. 2. Lightweight silk fabric resembling lopi huluhulu: United States of America. Hawaii. Wor- taffeta. sted thread. lounge suit: Man’s suit with broad shoulders, full chest, lopi kaholo: United States of America. Hawaii. Basting slim hips. Popular for business wear. thread. loup: 1. Half mask. 2. France. Wolf fur. loraypu: Bolivia and Peru. Woven diamond pattern. loutre: 1. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, a dark, loretto: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian rich brown. 2. France. Otter fur. (1750–1790 C.E.). Silk fabric used for waistcoats. loutre de Sibérie: France. Kolinsky fur. lorg-bheart: Ireland. Gaelic word for leg armor. lovadi: India. Short woolen cadars. : Small eyeglasses on ornamental handle. lovat: Scotland. Heather color in tweeds. lorica: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Brass or bronze love: Obsolete term for thin silk fabric. cuirass molded to fit the body following the line of love knot: Decorative knot of ribbon. the abdomen. Often decorated with metal reliefs and love lock: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles ornaments. I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Curl lorica hamata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Officer’s of hair worn hanging over shoulder. 2. Late Geor- lorica; mailed body armor. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Long ringlet worn at right lorica plumata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Mail made temple. with very small scales on the surface. Uncommon. lovertje: Holland. Sequin. lorica segmentata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Cui- lowell cloth: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States rass of iron strips articulated on leather straps. Had of America. A cheap cloth made in Lowell, Massa- copper alloy fittings. chusetts. lyons velvet 179 lower stocks: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Silk or lung p’ao: China. Manchu emperor’s robe. wool cloth stockings that showed beneath the upper lungee: See . stocks. lunghi: Somalia. Length of cloth used as a man’s robe. lowerings: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of lungi: India. Long cotton strip worn by Hindus as a America. Sacking cloth. loincloth, scarf, or turban. low-light: Darkest areas of color in a pattern. lunula: Crescent shaped ornament in a necklace. lozi: Palestine. Almond-shaped pendant. lupis: Finest grade of Manila hemp. lu: China. Zhou dynasty. Shoes. lupo: Italy. Wolf fur. luan: China. Lesser phoenix. : Trade name for a glittery yarn made from alumi- lucco: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Originally num foil coated with colored plastic film. from Florence, long gown that opened down the lurik: Indonesia. Checked-weave fabric. front and fastened at the neck. Slits on sides for arms. luroi gà: Vietnam. Tongue of a shoe. Worn by both genders. luroi-trai: Vietnam. Cap visor. Luchs: Germany. Lynx fur. lurot: Vietnam. Turban silk. Lucia: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). lusekufte: Norway. Literally “flea-jerkin,” black and A woman’s decorative apron bor- white woven cardigan. dered with an accordion pleated lustie-gallant: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Light red. ruffle and trimmed with knots of lustre: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Mohair with cording and tassels. shiny face. Lucie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). lustrene: Thin, twill weave, cotton fabric. In 1856, woman’s velvet man- lustrina: Guatemala. Mercerized embroidery cotton. tle with guipure insertion and a lustríña: Greece. Winter bridal shoes. Lucia flounce. lustrine: See lustrene. lucifer: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). lustrini: Italy. Sequins. 1. In 1869, deep wine color. 2. In 1880, color of brick lustring: See lutestring. dust. lutestring: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Glossy silk luciole: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, gen- fabric or a dress or ribbon made from this fabric. darme blue. lutherine: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late lucky bells: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, small Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Early form of lustre. bells worn on the chatelaine as part of Greek Revival. luto: 1. Spain. Mourning. 2. Bolivia. Mourning wear. luer: Norway. Caps. luto huipil: Guatemala. Mourning huipil. lug: 1. Obsolete term for ear . 2. Dressy clothes. luto poncho: Bolivia. Worn by widowers and funeral lugadoo: India. Sari. attendees, a poncho with very narrow woven bands luhinga: East India. Petticoat. and no ikat. lùireach: Ireland. Large cloak. lutto: Italy. Mourning. lùireach leathair: Ireland. Leather apron. lu‘u ‘ili: United States of America. Hawaii. Tanner of lùireach mhàilleach: Ireland. Coat of mail. skins and hides. luirg-bheairt: Ireland. Gaelic word for leg armor. luva: Portugal. Glove. lukini: United States of America. Hawaii. Perfume. Lycra: DuPont’s version of a sturdy, nonrubber, elastic lukka: Lapland. Man’s high-collared cape. fiber. See also . lulu ali‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Royal lynx: Long-haired, gray to orange red, slightly mottled feather coat. fur. Sometimes dyed black. lumberjack: Short straight coat. lyons loops: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1865, velvet lumman: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). strips used to loop up woman’s overskirt. Ireland. Large mantle. lyons velvet: Linen or cotton backed, stiff velvet with lunardi: See balloon hat. short pile.

M

M. B. waistcoat: See cassock vest. popularized this style of dress in 1770s. The suit con- ma canh gián: Vietnam. Dark brown. sisted of short, tight coat with very tight sleeves, tight mã da cam: Vietnam. Orange colored. striped trousers, dainty slippers, very small tricorne ma gua: 1. China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Man’s and frequently included nosegay of flowers worn on short, black satin jacket lined with blue silk. It had a the left shoulder. small standing collar. Originally fastened to right, macassar oil: (1890–1900 C.E.). Man’s hair oil. but later, closed in center front with five loops and macchavalaka: India. An antariya worn in a fish-tail buttons. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States style. of America. Chinese Hawaiian term for jacket of high Macfarlane: Caped overcoat with slits in the sides to quality black satin (din). It had sleeves that were 15 permit the hands to reach inside the garment for the inches wide at the wrist and featured a narrow collar pockets of the inner garment. worn flapped down. macica perlowa: Poland. Mother-of-pearl. má hong: Vietnam. Rouge. mackinaw: United States of America. Short, thick, ma sa: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of double-breasted coat, frequently made of plaid America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a lightweight wool. So named from its town of origin, Mackinac, cotton fabric. Michigan. ma xue: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Manda- : Heavy, durable fabric that is often rin man’s black satin boots. double faced, with one side napped. maa’: Celebes. Sacred cloth. mackinaw hat: Coarse straw hat of varying shapes. ma‘a taua: Samoa. Jewel. mackintosh: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to present. maaporeth: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew nap- United Kingdom. Introduced in 1836, short loose kin or apron. overcoat made of Mackintosh’s patent India-rubber mabiim: Zaire. Anklets. cloth. Came in drab or dark green. mábù: China. 1. Gunny cloth; sackcloth; burlap. 2. Linen. maco: Long stranded cotton used in hosiery, under- macabre: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in wear, etc. 1832, light silk and wool combination textile figured ma-coual: Chinese. Wide sleeved jacket made of rich in small patterns and edged with a Gothic border. satin and worn by men of wealth. macacão: Portugal. Overalls. macramé lace: Bulky knotted lace, usually fringed. macana: United Kingdom. Plain weave, soft, checked madagascar lace: Lace made in Madagascar with thread cotton fabric. twisted into loops and scallops. macaña: Ecuador. A warp-resist patterned shawl with madapolam: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, very fringed ends. heavy percale made with firm, hard twisted, round macaroni cravat: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). threads. United Kingdom. Popular in 1770s, muslin cravat madas: See wata. edged with lace and tied in bow under chin. maddavina: India. A girdle with a pendant. macaroni suit: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Style of madder: Plant that yields bright red dye. See also ga- dress introduced by young men who had traveled in ranza. Italy. They founded the Macaroni Club in 1764 and madeira embroidery: White embroidery on fine linen.

181 182 madow madow: Somalia. Black. mai muka: Australia. Maori general term for all inner madras: India. Fine, hand-loomed cotton fabric with garments. stripes or small woven designs. maiden hair: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Bright tan. madras gingham: United Kingdom. Brighter than usual maide’s blush: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Rose madras. color. madras muslin: Muslin with heavy figures, sometimes mail: Flexible, mesh of interlocking metal rings. in color. mail coach: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Very large neck- madras turban: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United cloth folded loosely around neck and tied in front. Kingdom. Introduced in 1819, women’s turban made Usually white, often a cashmere shawl. Popular with from a blue and orange Indian handkerchief. dandies. madras work: Embroidery on bright silk handkerchiefs. màilleach: Ireland. Armor. Madrid: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1857, woman’s màilleag: Ireland. Earring. cloth mantle with succession of capes trimmed with mailles carées: France. Square as in Valenci- fringe. 2. In 1858, woman’s hooded, circular silk man- ennes lace. tle. Trimmed with mohair and chenille passementerie. maillot: Tightly fitted, one-piece swimsuit. madvia: India. A stuff from Mandavi. màineag: Ireland. Glove. mae-dare: Japan. An apron. mainfaire: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Right-handed mae-gami: Japan. A boy’s forelock. gauntlet. maekko moja: Korea. Straw hat. Maintenon cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United mae-migoro: Japan. The front panel of a kimono. Kingdom. In 1860s, oversized black velvet cloak with mafors: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). wide sleeves enjoyed period of popularity. It was Worn by women from sixth to 11th centuries, long trimmed with deep pleated flounce covered in black narrow veil, generally covering the head and falling guipure lace. over the shoulders. Maintenon corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Close- magatama: Japan. Comma-shaped beads. fitting evening bodice trimmed with ribbon knots mage: 1. Japan. Topknot. 2. Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. down center front and had lace fall at waist. Popular The main knot in a woman’s hairstyle. from 1839 through 1840s. magenta: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in mairtíní: Renaissance. Ireland. Footless stockings. 1860, first chemical dye to be used in dress material mais: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, straw manufacture. Hailed as queen of colors. Named color. after battle of Magenta in 1859. 2. Vivid red purple maístra: Greece. Woman who makes embroidery. color. maiwai: Japan. Fisherman’s ceremonial jacket. magiostrine: Italy. In Milan, the local name for a boater. maize: Soft yellow. maglia piatta: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. majestueuse: Patch in the center of the forehead. Ringed mail. majica: See podkošulja. magliette: See punta. majithi: India. The color magenta. magoja: Korea. Man’s full-sleeved, dropped shoulder major wig: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United jacket. Kingdom. Military style of wig worn by male civil- mahadhana: India. A costly bleached silk. ians. It had a toupee and two corkscrew curls tied maharatta: See Indian necktie. at the nape of the neck where it forms a double maharmah: Turkey and Armenia. Muslin cloth worn queue. over head and lower face by Turkish and Armenian majtki: Poland. Woman’s panties. women. makabala: India. Velvet. maheutres: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Cy- makalena: United States of America. Hawaii. Fine mus- lindrical pads that were used to trim the shoulders lin cloth. of tight gippon sleeves to broaden the shoulders. makalena pu‘u: United States of America. Hawaii. Dot- Popular around 1450 C.E. ted swiss cloth. mahimudisahi: India. The finest muslin of Bengal origin. makarika: India. A hair ornament in the shape of a fish- mahmudi: India. Fine muslin. crocodile. mahogany: Dark red brown. makhi: India. Literally “fly,” a small cross-shaped tat- mahoîtres: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. Shoul- too on a woman’s cheek. der padding in gown or jacket. makhila: See pennbazh. mahrameh: Palestine. Christian man’s red turban. maki: See runa. mahyu-salu: India. A red cloth from Mau. maki punta: Ecuador. A sleeve ruffle. mai: New Zealand. Maori. A rough, coarse flax cloak. maki watana: Ecuador. A woman’s wrist wrap. mancheron 183 makila: United States of America. Hawaii. Maui word Maltese embroidery: Style of embroidery using small for needle. tassels worked on a surface of heavy material. maku‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. 1, Dark Maltese lace: 1. Bobbin lace similar to Mechlin and Val brown. 2. Topknot of hair. laces. 2. Guipure lace with simple geometric design maku‘e: See maku‘a. featuring Maltese cross and dots. mālā: 1. India. Garland of flowers. 2. Necklace of beads malvenfarbig: See hellviolet. or jewels or gold. malwa: Palestine. Silver wire bracelet. mala: Portugal. Handbag. malya: See mala. mālāband: India. Chain of pearls with pendants. mama chumbi: Ecuador and Guatemala. Literally malabar: Cotton handkerchief printed in bright colors “mother belt,” a wide underbelt. and designs. mama‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. Greenish; malabary: Madagascar. Man’s long robe. light green. malacateras: Mexico. Women who spin yarn for a living. mamelieres: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Round steel Malacca cane: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late armor plates covering the breasts. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Cane made from mottled mamelouk sleeve: Crinoline or clouded stem of a malacca palm. (1840-1864 C.E.). Sleeve made of malafa: Nigeria. Split palm leaf with a wide several puffs from the shoulder brim and a conical crown. to the wrist. Puffs were formed malai: India. A gold coin necklace from southern India. by tying ribbons along the arm. malak: Palestine. Most expensive silk fabric made in mameluck: Directoire and First this country. Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). malak abu wardeh: Palestine. Expensive silk fabric Douillette with wide, pleated with red floral pattern. back. malamala sahi: India. The finest quality Bengal muslin. mameluke: 1. Directoire and malas: Palestine. Loose weave striped fabric. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). mamelouk sleeve malausiu: India. A silk stuff or damask from Malaya. United States of America. East- maldā: Ethiopia. Armlet worn only by those who have ern style wrap fashionable in 1806. It hung from killed five men, five buffaloes, and five lions. the shoulders in folds down the back. 2. Romantic male: Norway. Eyelet; the plural is maler. (1815–1840 C.E.). Ladies’ sleeve cut full to the wrist. malines: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1885, mameluke robe: Directoire and First Empire (1790– closely woven canvas, appearing to be inter-woven. 1815 C.E.). United States of America. First appearing 2. Mechlin type lace made in Malines, Belgium. in 1806, a trained full loose gown. malir: India. A cotton cloth woven on narrow looms mameluke turban: Directoire and First Empire (1790– and block printed in indigo blue. 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1804, a turban of white satin maljor: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance trimmed with large white feather. (1450–1550 C.E.). Sweden. Lacing rings attached to mame-shibori: Japan. Early tie-dyeing which produced a bodice. A ribbon or lace runs through the rings to bean-shaped dots. hold the garment closed. mamillare: See strophion. malle-: See malmal. mammelieres: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Steel ron- mallow-color: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, light dels that were fastened on either side of the breast- shade of mauve. plate. Chains hung from them to secure the helmet, malmal: India. Muslin. sword, or . malo: United States of America (Hawaii) and Samoa. mamoodie: See mahmudi. Girdle or loincloth. Originally made of tapa cloth, manaeka: New Zealand. Maori. A showy timu. now made of brightly dyed cotton. manag: Ireland. Gaelic word for glove or mitten. malo kai: United States of America. Hawaii. Loincloth mañanita: Spain. Bedjacket. worn in the sea. mã-não: Vietnam. Agate. malo wai: United States of America. Hawaii. Loincloth manasasa: India. A fine quality muslin. wet in fresh water. It is taboo to wear this in the pres- manavaka: India. Necklace of twenty strings of pearls. ence of a chief. mancebo: Portugal. Clothes hanger. malong: Philippine Islands. Woman’s sarong. manche: France. Sleeve. malong andon: Philippine Islands. Sarong ornamented manche à gigot: France. Puffed sleeve. with ikat patterns. mancheron: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Half sleeve malong pandi: Philippine Islands. Man’s sarong with of silk or velvet seen under the wide sleeves of horizontal stripes. gowns and . 184 manchester

manchester: Holland. Corduroy. manequim: Portugal. Tailor’s dummy. Manchester velvet: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to maneras: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Arm slits Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Cotton velvet. in a garment. manchetknoop: Holland. . mang: China. Four-clawed dragon embroidery worn by manchette: France. Cuff or wristband. lesser princes, nobles, and senior court officials in the manchette de cour: Directoire and First Empire (1790– Ming dynasty (1368–1644 C.E.). 1815 C.E.). French style sleeve made with English mang ao: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Han or alençon lace. Attached to dress with ribbon that woman’s loose-fitting jacket. It had a plain round matched color from the hairpiece. First introduced neck, bell sleeves, and a side opening. Usually red in 1793. or blue. manchettes: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Gauze or lace mang chu: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Han armbands set in between puffs and worn with gowns. woman’s red or green silk skirt embroidered with manchira: India. Pearl fringed fabric. dragons and phoenixes. First worn on the wedding Manchu headdress: China. Woman’s hairstyle where day. hair is set high on head and shaped into two wings at mang pao: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Four- sides which are often glued into place and decorated clawed dragon long pao worn by noblewomen and with gems, coins, etc. officials’ wives. manchurian ermine: China. Fur of weasel. manga: 1. Mexico. Garment similar to the poncho; mandā paradiyā: India. Sari with circular pattern on woven from wool with an opening for the head. the border. Usually trimmed in velvet. 2. Portugal and Spain. mandalia: India. A stuff from Mandalipathaka. Sleeve. mandarin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1. In 1873, Chinese manga ahuecada: Spain. Puffed sleeve. blue. 2. In 1877, bright green. manga caída: Spain. Cap sleeve. mandarin coat: China. Long embroidered coat worn by manga dolman: Spain. Dolman sleeve. mandarins. manga gitana: Spain. Magyar sleeve. mandarin collar: Narrow standing collar on fitted neck- manga kimono: Spain. Kimono sleeve. line. manga murciélago: Spain. Batwing sleeve. mandarin color: Orange or red- manga raglán: Spain. Raglan sleeve. dish yellow. mangaeka: See manaeka. Mandarin hat: Crinoline (1840– mangamelai: India. From southern India, a gold coin 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. necklace set with gems. Ladies’ black velvet porkpie hat mangas perdidas: Portugal. Hanging sleeve. trimmed with feathers on the mangt’o: Korea. Mantle. back of the crown. Named for the mang-tô: Vietnam. Topcoat. French-British war with China. manguito: Portugal. Mitten. mandarin sleeve: Kimono type mangulsutra: India. A black and gold necklace. sleeve. mani: India. A pearl. mandarin collar mandel: India. 1. A round cap, mani nupura: India. Anklets of jeweled beads. often embroidered with gold and seed pearls. 2. A maniakes: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). turban woven with silk and gold thread. 3. A woolen Collar worn by emperors. muffler worn rolled around the head like a turban. manica: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). 1. Articulated Mandel: United States of America. Amish woman’s armguard. 2. Italy. Long sleeve of a tunic. The sleeve long outer garment, like an overcoat. covered the hand. mandeville: Charles I and the Commonwealth. Mandilion. manica a buffo: Italy. Puffed sleeve. mandil: See sharb. maniche á comeo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. mandīl: Arabia. Common head veil. Women’s elbow-length sleeves. mandiléño: Greece. Fine silk material. manicísco: Greece. Elbow-length sleeved garment worn mandili: Greece. Women’s block printed scarves. under the anterí. mandilion: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s loose, manifer: See mainfaire. hip-length jacket with fitted sleeves and open side manik ata: Indonesia. Woman’s necklace of gold and seams. Often worn colley-westonward. blood coral worn by the Sa’dan-Toraja. mandyas: Long outer garment similar to the cope. manik barata: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja black bead. Worn by the clergy in the Eastern Church. manik bura bura: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja white bead. maneg: 1. Wales. Glove. 2. France. Breton for glove. manik kalaa’: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja pink bead. manege averte: France. Open ended sleeves. manik sekke’: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja light blue bead. manto 185 manik tai anda’: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja shiny green position. Train was worn carried over the left arm, bead. except in the presence of royalty, when it trained on manik tinggi: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja dark red bead. the ground. 4. France. Cloak. mani-karnika: India. Glass ear-ornaments. manteau à la cavaliere: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). manikéttia: Greece. Pair of cuffs. Circular cape. mani-kundala: India. Earring inset with jewels. manteau à l’italienne: See manteau à la cavaliere. Manila hemp: See abaca. manteau de cocher: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, manilha: Portugal. Bracelet; armlet. coachman’s cape; Worth’s polonaise with two pel- manilla: 1. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1897, yel- erines. lowish beige. 2. Ecuador and Guatemala. Bracelet; mantee: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Woman’s arm wrap. sleeved coat worn open to show the stomacher and manilla brown: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 petticoat beneath it. C.E.). Introduced in 1811, soft light shade, similar in manteel: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United color to hemp. Kingdom. Worn from 1730s to 1750s, scarf-like cape manillas: Ecuador. Bracelets. with long ends hanging in front and a hood in the maninupura: India. Anklet of precious stones. back. maniple: Liturgical costume. 1. Ornamental handker- mantel: 1. Holland. Cloak. 2. See kappa. 3. See cloke. chief carried in the hand in the celebration of Mass. 2. Mantel: Germany. Cloak. Narrow band of fabric three feet long and decorated mantelet: Small mantle or short cloak. with three crosses. Worn over the left arm by priests mantelet à la grand mère: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). at Mass. Revived mantelet style trimmed with quillings of manitergium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Handker- brocaded ribbon. chief. mantelet au lever de l’aurore: Late Georgian (1750– manivalaya: India. Bracelet made of conch shells. 1790 C.E.). France. Short mantle for morning wear. manjira: India. 1. A stuff decorated with flowers. 2. mantelet Isabelle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- Hollow anklets which make a tinkling sound as they duced in 1862, black silk mantelet with deep green move. and black fringe. Manon robe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- mantelette: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Ladies’ shaped dom. Worn from 1850 to 1867, this garment had a shawl that fit the back of the body much like a jacket front that was cut in one piece and a pleat in the back, and reached to the knees in front. similar to the Watteau pleat, running from under the manteline: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Short parade collar to the hem. garment worn over the armor. Commonly decorated. manopla: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Gauntlet. Sometimes had a hood. manople: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Gauntlet. mantell: 1. Wales. Cloak. 2. France. Breton for cloak. manquitos: Peru. Oversleeves and stockings knitted mantelletta: Short sleeveless robe of silk or wool worn with colored wool. by the clergy of the Roman Catholic Church. mant: Obsolete word for the mantilla. mantellina: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Hood. manta: 1. Rough cotton cloth worn by lower classes in mantello: Italy. Cloak. South America. Also refers to garments made from mantilla: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Smaller this fabric. 2. Guatemala. Plain white homespun version of the manto. Covered only head and shoul- cloth. 3. Ecuador and Portugal. Shawl. See also chale. ders. 4. Romania. Cloak. 5. See phullu. mantille: Holland. Mantilla. mantal: Ireland. Gaelic word for mantle. mantita: Bolivia. Extremely small mantle. Mantal: See Hachul. mantle: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Long, winter mantaqa: Arabia. Sword belt. version of the mante that buttoned down the front. mante: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Short cape edged mantle and ring: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Cloak with lace ruffles and worn by women of high rank and ring which were worn with the veil as a religious at court. habit by widows. manteau: 1. Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– mantle lace: Heavy, tasseled cord used in English cer- 1660 C.E.). Formal women’s gown. 2. Restoration emonial dress. (1660–1700 C.E.). Loose, coat-like robe worn as neg- mantling: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Rough blue ligee. Worn by women. 3. Restoration (1660–1700 check cotton cloth used in making aprons. C.E.). Woman’s formal gown. Overskirt was looped manto: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Large back and held in place with ribbon bows. It had a shawl worn by women and young girls to cover the train whose length determined the wearer’s social head, allowing only one eye to show. 2. Spain. Cloak. 186 manto de oraciones manto de oraciones: Spain. Praying shawl. marabou: (20th century). 1. Feather trim made from manto de pescoço: Portugal. Plaid. feather of a stork. 2. Raw silk. manto militar: Portugal. Tabard. : 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in mantón de mantilla: Large embroidered shawl of silk 1877, woolen, soft to the touch but looked rough. 2. crepe made in China and shipped to Spain where a Delicate, thin silk fabric. deep fringe is added. marabout feathers: Directoire and First Empire (1790– mantones de Manila: Ecuador. Shawls imported from 1815 C.E.). Soft downy feathers from the tail and the Far East via the Manila galleon trade. underside of the wings of the marabout stork. Very mantua: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Formal gown popular form of trim. with formal drapery in the back. Worn over boned marabout silk: Thrown silk fabric. bodice and with elaborate skirt. Popular in United marabù: Italy and Spain. Marabout. Kingdom longer than elsewhere. 2. Early Georgian Marabu: Germany. Marabout. (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). A marafiya: Nigeria. Tall, domed cap made from a flour heavyweight silk, dyed black for mourning. bag. Mantua hose: Knitted silk stockings made in Mantua, marakatajadara: India. An emerald green silk fabric. Italy. marama: 1. Romania. Worn by matrons, long veil of mantua maker: Charles I and the Commonwealth thin white cotton or silk, embroidered and sequined, (1625–1660 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). wound tightly around the head with an end hanging Mantua tailor or dressmaker. free at the back. 2. Bosnia. Scarf. mantua marguerite: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. maramica: Croatia and Serbia. Handkerchief. Woman’s velvet mantua in shawl shape. Trimmed marate: Peru. Thick, hard sash. with three rows of black lace headed with narrow marau: Borneo. Large cane. silk braid. marble silk: Silk fabric with mottled surface. mantua woman: Charles I and the Commonwealth marbrinus: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Worsted fab- (1625–1660 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). ric woven with pale warp and colored weft that Mantua dressmaker. imitates marble. mănuşă: Romania. Glove. marcasite: Glittering metal, looking like cut steel, used Manx plaid: Isle of Man. Small check pattern in scarlet for jewelry. and bright blue. marcel wave: (20th century). Type of artificial waving Mao jacket: See Nehru jacket. of the hair introduced by Marcel of France in 1907. máobù: China. Coarse cotton fabric. Process was referred to as marcelling. máogé: China. Poplin. marcela: Spain. Marcella. màokuir: China. Skullcap. marceline: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 maolag: Ireland. Gaelic word for footless stockings. C.E.). Soft silk fabric similar to a light taffeta. Used máolàio: China. Woolen fabric. for dresses. máolán: China. Darkish blue. marcella: Twilled cotton or linen, used for waistcoats. maolas: Ireland. Gaelic word for sandal. marcelling: See marcel wave. maolua: United States of America. Hawaii. Kind of red marchisite: Iron pyrites facet-cut and set in jewelry to tapa. resemble diamond cluster jewelry. ma‘oma‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. 1. Green. Marder: Germany. Marten fur. 2. Green tapa. marechal: Scent or perfume or scented hair powder. máoyi: China. Woolen sweater. marfil: Spain. Ivory color. máozhipin: China. Wool fabric. marfim: Portugal. Ivory. màozi: China. Generic term for a hat. Margaret of Valois: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Crino- mapache: Spain. . line (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s wide sleeve mapel: Zaire. Man’s skirt. gathered at the top and bottom. Cap at top and deep mapoto: Transvaal. Ndebele wife’s beaded rectangular cuff at the wrist. apron (17-1/4 inches by 23-1/2 inches). margarita: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). A pearl. mappa: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Combination margarite: Italy. A thin bead. handkerchief and washcloth. Also used to give sig- margaritte: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Large nals at games. pearl. mappelana: Italy. Woman’s headdress. margine: Lithuania. 1. Cloth of many colors. 2. Skirt. mappula: See mappa. Margot lace: Fancy fragile lace with a machine- maquillage: France. Makeup. embroidered design in a heavy cotton thread on a máquina de gasa: Mexico. Miniature sewing machine. lightweight silk net. maroon 187 marguerite: (19th century). Plastroned waistband or ric. 2. Woman’s decorative tri- belt that laced in front and had tabs in the back. angular head scarf of mariposa Marguerite silk: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, trimmed with a deep fall of lace. new silk fabric. Mark of the Beast: See cassock vest. mariage: France. Wedding. Marlborough hat: Bustle (1865– Marian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s 1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. cloth travelling wrap that draped left over right. Large flat hat of lace and Tus- Trimmed with three rows of velvet ribbon and a can straw. Trimmed with long mixed color fringe. shaded feathers and worn Marie Anglais bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United slightly to one side. Intro- Kingdom. Ladies’ hat similar to a child’s sailor hat duced in 1882. although it was ornamented with flowers, feathers, marli: Fine net similar to tulle. mariposa and ribbon. Worn at back of the head and tied under marlota: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Loose the chin with a bow. garment worn in place of a jerkin. 2. Arabia. Sleeved Marie Antoinette fichu: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. outer garment. In 1856, woman’s white fichu. 2. In 1859, white net marlotte: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Women’s fichu trimmed with puffings of tulle and narrow sleeved mantle worn open in the front. Fell in folds black or pink satin ribbon. Outer edges trimmed with down the back. Had very short, puffed sleeves and three-inch-wide blonde. standing collar. See also simarra. Marie sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Full sleeve marmot: Inexpensive, short thick fur. Used in imitation that tied at intervals and at wrist to form puffs. Re- of mink. vived in 1872 as Marie-Antoinette sleeve. marmota: Spain. Marmot. Marie Stuart bodice: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In- marmotta: Italy. Raccoon fur. troduced in 1828, tight evening bodice boned down marmotte: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, dark front to a deep point. shade of ashes of roses. 2. France. Marmot. Marie Stuart bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to marmotte bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Worn from 1820s to around Kingdom. Introduced in 1832, very small bonnet 1870, bonnet with brim that dipped in center over with narrow brim in the front. forehead. Particularly popular with widows. For marmotte cap: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- dress occasions, made of white satin and trimmed dom. Introduced in 1833, triangle of fabric worn far with lace and colored ribbons. back on the head and tied under the chin. Worn dur- Marie Stuart hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced ing the day indoors. in 1849, evening dress hat of tulle with stiff brim that maro: 1. New Zealand. Maori. An apron. 2. Polynesia. curled up with dip in the center of the forehead. A loin girdle. Marie-Antoinette sleeve: See Marie sleeve. maro huka: New Zealand. Maori. Priest’s flax fiber apron. Marie-Louise blue: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Shade maro kaakaapoo: New Zealand. Maori. Apron of of light blue named for Empress. kaakaapoo (Strigops habroptilus). marik: Borneo. Bead. maro kaukau: New Zealand. Maori. Apron made of marinara: Italy. Sailor suit. rushes worn by women when they gather shellfish. marine blue: Dark, grayed green blue color. maro kopua: New Zealand. Maori. A triangular apron marineblauw: Holland. Navy blue. or girdle worn by girls of good families. It is made of marinera: Spain. Sailor suit. finely dressed flax fiber. mariner’s cuff: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United maro kura: New Zealand. Maori. Apron covered with Kingdom. Small round cuff that had a vertical scalloped feathers of parrots and trimmed with pieces of shell. flap crossing it. Generally had three or four buttons. maro kuta: New Zealand. Maori. A girl’s apron made marinière: France. Sailor suit. of grass. marino faliero sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Pop- maro waero: New Zealand. Maori. Apron trimmed ular from 1830 to 1835, ladies’ large hanging sleeve with white dog hair. caught in at the elbow by a ribbon band. Named for maro waiapu: New Zealand. Maori. A woven apron the Byron of that name. ornamented with thrums. Marion: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s marocain: Ribbed silk or wool crepe used for dress and velvet shawl trimmed with broad velvet ruffle with dressmaker suits. vandyked edge. marocain crepe: Cross-ribbed crepe of wool, cotton, or mariposa: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1. Introduced in 1872, silk. washing sateen with stripes in plain and dotted fab- maroon: Yellowish red. 188 marquis

marquis: Ladies’ tricorne. martora: Italy. Marten fur. marquise: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s morn- martre: France. Marten. ing slipper. martre : France. Sable. Marquise: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, silk pe- marumage: Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. Literally lisse with fitted body. Had lace flounce and three rows “round chignon,” a married woman’s hairstyle. of goffered ribbon at the hem and around the yoke. maru-obi: Japan. A wide obi. marquise bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- Mary Queen of Scots cap: Late Georgian (1750–1790 dom. Ladies’ evening bodice with frilled edge. Front C.E.). United Kingdom. Indoor cap similar in line to was heart shaped. that was popularized by Mary, Queen of Scots. Made marquise mantle: Romantic (1815–1845 C.E.). United of black cypress or gauze and was edged in French Kingdom. Ladies’ short mantlet of taffeta with short beads. sleeves. Worn fitted to the waist in the back. Often Mary Stuart: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, velvet trimmed with flounces and lace. and moiré antique cloak that was pleated in back to marquisette: Silk, cotton, rayon, or wool, lightweight, the yoke. Trimmed with watered braid. openwork fabric of the leno weave. Used for curtains Mary Stuart cap: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Heart- and dresses. shaped cap popularized by Mary Stuart. marquisetto beard: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). maryland: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1873, nutria. United Kingdom. Man’s close-trimmed beard. marynarka: Poland. Man’s coat. See also kurtka. marramas: In 14th century, cloth of gold, made in the mascaipacha: Peru. Red fringe on Inca man’s headband. Orient. Principally used for ecclesiastical ornament. mascaypacha: Peru. Royal Incan tassel of fine red wool marrom: Portugal. Brown. woven into the llautu and worn in the middle of the marron: Spain. Maroon. forehead. marseilles: France. Sturdy cotton fabric similar to pi- mascherata: Italy. Fancy dress. qué. Looks like quilted fabric. Used for bedspreads masher: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. and drapery. Originally made in Marseilles, France. Popular name for dandy of the period in 1880s and Marseilles embroidery: Early Georgian (1700–1750 1890s. C.E.). France. All white needlework in which layers masher collar: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 1910s. United of fabric are stuffed and embroidered, the ground Kingdom. Very tall collar popularized by the masher covered in little knots. in the 1880s and 1890s. marseilles : Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United masher dust wrap: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of America. Embossed, white woven cotton. Kingdom. Close-fitting Inverness with large arms- marsella: Heavy, bleached, twill weave, linen fabric. eyes and a cape. Worn by the mashers in 1880s. marshmellow: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- mashi: India. Grass green. dom. Soft rose color. : Mixed fabric of silk and cotton. Originally marsina: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Italy. Man’s worn only by Muslims. Named for the word tail coat. for lawful because the Muslims are not allowed to marška: Lithuania. Linen cloth; fishing net. wear pure silk while at prayer. maršliniai: Lithuania. Shirt. mashru sha’ri: India. A silk and goat hair blend fabric. marta: 1. Portugal. Sable. 2. Spain. Marten fur; squirrel maskel lace: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renais- belly fur. sance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spotted net lace. marta cebellina: Spain. Sable. maskotka: Poland. Amulet. marta comú: Spain. Marten. masla: See natiyo. marteaux: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1873, heavy folds maspilli: See bottoni. of hair held up by a comb. massereen blue: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Dark marten: Soft, medium-weight fur from the weasel (Mar- purple. tes martes). Masulipatam chintz: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). A martingale belt: (1940–1950 C.E.). Half belt on back of chintz made with a red dye. a jacket or coat. mat kid: Fine kid leather finished to smooth, matte martingale breeches: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) surface. to Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. mat mii: Thailand. Weft ikat. Breeches that had a moveable panel between the legs mata tioata: Samoa. Eyeglasses. that was held to the belt with buttons and points. matab: Abyssinia. A silken cord carrying an amulet or martinpècheur: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, king- charm. It is worn around the neck. fisher color. matara: Dark brown shade of dye used for seal fur. martō: Ethiopia. Cotton . mătase: Romania. Silk. Medici collar 189 matelasé: Spain. Matelasse. may san: Vietnam. Ready-to-wear clothes. matelassé: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- mayad: Philippine Islands. Woman’s sash. duced in 1874, firm silk woven to resemble quilting. mayāthir humr: Arabia. Tanned hides. 2. Fabric with woven designs in quilted effect. Made mayau: India. A silk stuff from Mayin. of wool, silk, rayon, or various blends. Quilting is may-ô: Vietnam. Undershirt. stitched or embossed, but not woven in. mayūrakanthiā: India. Sari colored like the neck of a māteria: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Material. peacock. materija: See tkan’. Mazarin hood: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. Mathilde: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Chaperon named for the niece of the cardinal, minis- Inspired by 1804–1805 exhibition of Queen Mathilde’s ter of Louis XIV. Tapestry, the Bayeaux Tapestry; broad vertical band Mazarine hood: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Hood of embroidery popular on women’s dress fronts. Later or headdress trimmed with lace. Introduced by included band of embroidery around the hem of the Duchesse de Mazarin. dress and was referred to as inverted T or inverted Y. mazzette: Italy. Bobbin. Mathilde mantilla: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1859, mbal: Zaire. Raffia cloth. brown or chocolate cloth mantilla trimmed with mbala: Zaire. Plain woven cloth used for most skirts. plaid velvet. Closed with mother-of-pearl buttons. mbala badinga: Zaire. A woven patterned raffia cloth matinée: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. used for some skirts. 1. Introduced in 1851, hooded pardessus worn out- m-cut collar: (19th century). Notch in shape of M doors over morning dress. Commonly made of ja- between turned collar and lapel of a coat. First ap- conet or muslin. 2. Short breakfast robe. Opened in peared in 1800, remaining in use until around 1870. front and tied at the waist in a bow. It had a muslin mdama kofe: Timbuktu. A ring with a miter-shaped flounce at the bottom hem and elbow. Hooded with projection. a vandyked frill. meanaigean: Ireland. Gaelic word for gloves or mittens. Matinee skirt: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1859, meanbh-ghàirdean: Ireland. Armlet. hooped underskirt with removable hoops. mecca: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1877, Matrosenanzug: Germany. Sailor suit. thinnest wool gauze with bits of silk in the wool. matschigote’: Algonquin blanket worn as a cape. mech: Russia. Fur. matsuinui: Japan. Backstitched outline on embroidery. Mechlin lace: Thin bobbin lace with a design of orna- matsu-nori: Japan. Paste used for studio dyed Yuzen. ments and flowers. Produced in Mechlin, Flanders, matt stitch: Old term for surface embroidery done with and very popular in the 18th century. satin stitches. mechnesayim: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Jewish mattal: See lenn. man’s linen breeches that were worn low on the hips. matte jersey: Dull tricot made of fine crepe yarns. mechones: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Earlocks. matting oxford: Oxford shirting with small basket mechuelas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Little weaves. locks of hair. mãu da giòi: Vietnam. Azure blue. Mecklenburg cap: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). mãu do: Vietnam. Gray. United Kingdom. Turban worn as indoor hat. Inspired Maud: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. by marriage of Charlotte of Mecklenburg to George III. Introduced in 1855, plaid fringed wrapper for ladies. mecklenburgh: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Wool maud: Scotland. Gray plaid used as rug or shawl. damask with colored flowered stripes. mauktika alankara: India. Ear ornament. medaglio: See fermaglio. mauli: India. A turban. medalionik: Poland. Locket. mauli bandha: India. A elaborate style of turban. medallion: Lace motif used to ornament lingerie, lin- mauli mani: India. A jeweled clasp for a turban. ens, etc. Maulwurf: Germany. Mole. me-ðay: Vietnam. Medal. mau‘u-la ‘ili: United States of America. Hawaii. Kind of media: Spain. Stocking; hose. calico with tiny figures. medias: Ecuador and Guatemala. Stockings. mauve: Reddish violet. medias mangas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Mauwiesel: Germany. Weasel fur. Half sleeves. mawa’: See maa’. medias y calcetines: Spain. Stockings. mawaris: Palestine. Front and back seams of a gown. Medici collar: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Standing, maxi: (1960–1970 C.E.). Woman’s ankle-length skirt. lace-edged ruff worn high in the back and ending in maxtlatl: Mexico. Aztec loincloth. a low décolletage. Popularized by portrait of Marie maxtli: Guatemala. Breech cloth; loincloth. de Medici. 190 Medici dress

Medici dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. melon bag: Handbag with gores resembling sides of Ladies’ princess dress with a train, short sleeves, and melon. a tablier front. Worn in 1870s. melon hose: See trunk hose. Medici lace: French bobbin lace similar to insertion. melon sleeve: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Medici sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- C.E.). Worn from 1809 to 1815, ladies’ evening sleeve dom. Worn in 1830s, day sleeve puffed to elbow and was shaped like a melon, either short or elbow then tight to the wrist. length. Often worn with a sheer sleeve reaching to Medina: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s vel- the wrist. vet cloak with deep yoke and deep frounce. Trimmed melone: Germany. Bowler. with a satin roll, ostrich plumes, and heavy fringe. melote: Gothic. Sheepskin or coarse cloak worn by medley: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- monks and friars while at work. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Wool cloth. melppang: Korea. Suspenders. Medusa wig: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 melton: United Kingdom. Originally made in Melton, C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from 1800 to 1802, United Kingdom, short-napped, thick fabric of wool wig with many snakelike curls. or cotton and wool blend. Similar to felt. medvilnė: Lithuania. Cotton. memele: See melemele. mefkat: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Turquoise, a gemstone. men: Norway. Old word for necklace. megamendung: Java. A cloud textile pattern. menagere: Switzerland. Short apron. megane: Japan. Eyeglasses. menajel: Palestine. Literally “sickles,” a seam-joining meghadambara: India. Cloud-colored sari. stitch. megha-udumbara: See meghavarna. menat: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Necklace, particu- meghavarna: India. A black silk from Bengal. larly one bearing symbol of goddess Hathor. mèi: China. Sleeve. mendil: 1. Turkey. Embroidered handkerchief. 2. Pales- meia: Portugal. Stocking; hose; sock. tine. Headscarf. meia calça: Portugal. Panty hose. mendil hajj: Palestine. Mendil given to wives by hus- meias de lã: Portugal. Worsted stockings. bands who have done the pilgrimage to Mecca. Made méihóngsè: China. Plum color. of orange silk with an allover pattern of flowers. me’il: See kethoneth. mene: United Kingdom. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). meisen: Japan. Plain weave silk fabric with a pattern United Kingdom. Old English word for necklace. of crosses created by hand-dyeing the yarn before mengekudu: Java. Red vegetable dye. weaving. Menni: Germany. Old High German word for a mejrevaló: Hungary. Woman’s short, sleeveless, fur necklace. jerkin. mennuet: See mignonette. mekala: United States of America. Hawaii. Medal. mente: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Austro-Hungarian mekhala: India. Waist ornament. Empire. Outer coat, often trimmed with fur, cut mekkō: Ethiopia. Grass raincloth. straight from the shoulder seams to the waist, then melange: France. Mixture of colors in weaving. flaring out and ending at the knees or calves. melas: Egypt. Woman’s black overdress with a horizon- mentel: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). tal neckline. United Kingdom. Cloak worn by both genders. melaya liff: Egypt. Rectangular wrap of nylon, silk, or Women fastened it with a brooch or pin. 2. See hacele. other thin fabrics. mentel-preon: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 melbbang: Korea. Suspenders. C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn by women in 12th cen- melemele: United States of America. Hawaii. Yellow. tury, pin or brooch for fastening the mentel (cloak). melemele ‘ili ‘alani: United States of America. Hawaii. menteurs: See liars. Orange yellow color. mentik: Russia. Hussar pelisse. mellay: Obsolete term for mixed color fabric. mentlíky: Slovakia. Dress coats. mellény: See mellrevaló. mentonières: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Plate armor mellia: Tunisia. Six-yard length of cotton worn draped that guarded the throat and chin. Attached to the around the belt and then pinned breastplate. at the shoulders. mentonnierres: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular in mellrevaló: Hungary. Waist jacket. 1820s and 1830s, pieces of tulle or lace sewn to edge melon: Similar to the bowler or of bonnet strings, which when tied, formed frill un- derby hat, a man’s hard round der the chin. crowned hat with a slightly mentýk: Slovakia. White lamb’s wool. melon curved brim. menu vair: See vair. mica 191 menyet: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Ceremonial neck- Messrock: Germany. Cassock. lace made of green beads and a gold plaque. Carried mest: Hebrew word for socks. or waved during religious ceremonies. méstia: Greece. Soft slippers. meo: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United metal cloth: Decorative fabric of silk or cotton warp and Kingdom. Sock worn by monks with the hosa. metallic weft. Used in millinery and trim. mercury: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United States of metal lace: Lace net on which designs are woven in America. Style of cap popular in Boston around 1760. metallic thread, by hand or machine. merino: 1. Wool of the merino sheep. 2. Fine, soft dress metallic gauze: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced fabric similar to cashmere. Originally made of me- in 1820, gauze made in colors to imitate precious rino sheep wool. 3. Fine wool yarn. 4. Guatemala. gems like emeralds, topaz, and amethysts. Cloth with any wool in it. mētelis: Lithuania. Cloak. merinos: Holland. Merino. meteor crepe: Silk crepe. merinos ecossais: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, metropolitan jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In- wool fabric. troduced in 1862, waist-length zouave cut away in mériza: Greece. Wide gold lace similar to entre-deux. front to reveal a shirt. Jacket had a small capelet merletto: Italy. Lace. See also trina. with pagoda sleeves slit on outside to the elbow and merletto-trina chiaacchierino: Italy. Tatting lace. trimmed with five rows of narrow velvet. mermaid’s tail: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- Metternich: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1868, new shade dom. Nickname given to the train of a tied-back skirt; of green. used from 1875 to 1882. meurtriers: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– Merry Widow: (1950–1960 C.E.). United States of Amer- 1660 C.E.). Literally “murderer’s knot,” tie that when ica. Introduced in 1952, long-line, strapless brassiere untied, releases all the hair. with feather-boning designed by Warner Founda- mexican: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). tions for Lana Turner in the film Merry Widow. It was United Kingdom. Steel blue. usually non-lacing. Mexican cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in merry widow hat: (20th century). Extremely large pic- 1865, strong, washable silk fabric. ture hat popularized by the opera of the same name. Mexicans: United Kingdom. Various cotton fabrics Mersea pattens: See backsters. made for export. merveilleux: Lustrous silk or silk and cotton blend in meyui: Japan. Konoko with small dark centered white twill weave. Used in coat linings. dots. mesal: Bulgaria. 1. Single-width kilt. 2. Three meter mezail: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Visor. long kerchief with embroidered ornaments at ends. mézeline: See brocatelle. mésange: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, blue gray. mezer: France. Breton for cloth. mescolato: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Italy. Fabric mezz: Egypt. Woman’s flat, embroidered slippers. Part made of threads, each dyed a different color. of the indoor dress. mesh bag: (20th century). Bag made of metal links. mezza mandolina: A form of lacis where the large mesh bustle: Bustle (1865–1890 square mesh is covered by a cobweb-like pattern of C.E.). A woman’s pieced bustle darned thread. made with several rounded pads mezzaro: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Italy. Painted of metal mesh. linen veil worn over the head and shoulders. mesofori: Greece. A petticoat mezzo punto: Tape-based lace with needle-made fill- with a hoop in the hem. ings. Similar to gros point de Venise. mess jacket: (1930–1940 C.E.) In- mian fu: China. Zhou dynasty. Sacrificial robes in var- mesh bustle troduced in 1930, jacket fashioned ied colors and designs. Dover Publications after the military dress jacket. mian guan: China. Zhou dynasty. Dignified ceremonial Waist length, tail-less, and cut with a deep V in the worn to certain rites by emperors, kings, back hem. It had large lapels and was commonly and officials. worn with a cummerbund. miánbù: China. Cotton fabric. messaline: Named for Messalina, wife of Roman em- miánkù: China. Cotton-padded trousers. peror Claudius. Soft lightweight lustrous silk fabric miánmáokù: China. Trousers of cotton interlock fabric. in a satin weave. Usually in a solid color. miánmáoshan: China. Cotton jersey. messaria: Greece. Triangular embroidery motifs. miánróng: China. Cotton velvet. messauria: Nigeria. A large sleeved shirt worn under miányi: China. Cotton-padded clothes. the tilbi. mica: Transparent mineral substance sometimes used Messgewand: Germany. Chasuble. in accessories. 192 middy blouse middy blouse: (20th century). Young girl’s blouse. braided fronts, a roll collar, and no lapels. Worn by Loose, unbelted, hip-length blouse with sailor collar. civilians from around 1820. Based on the blouse worn by midshipmen in the U.S. military stock: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Crino- Navy. line (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Neckcloth middy braid: Narrow, finely braided braid used on stiffened with cardboard or leather and tied or buck- middy blouses and tailored dresses and coats. led behind the nape of the neck. Frequently made of middy twill: Cotton twill fabric similar to jean. silk edged with kid. midi: (1960–1970 C.E.). Woman’s mid-calf-length skirt. milk and water: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Cloth midnight blue: Darkest navy blue. named for its color. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). midori: Japan. Very light green. Bluish white. mighfar: Arabia. Cap or headcloth of mail worn under milkmaid skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- a helmet. dom. Introduced in 1885, skirt in two-color striped mignonette: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced material with overskirt that gathered at the waist. in 1862, woman’s black Thibet or Canton crepe Worn for day dress only. mantelet embroidered with silk and bugle beads millefleurs: Kind of perfume. and trimmed with two rows of deep Guipere lace. millium: (1950–1960 C.E.). United States of America. 2. Inexpensive, thread lace with a fancy mesh Lining fabric of rayon and metal insulation. ground. millma sumbriru: Ecuador. A round, white hat of mignonette green: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In hand-fitted wool. 1897, a new color. millma sumbru: Ecuador and Guatemala. Hat made mignonette lace: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Early from felted fleece. form of bobbin lace. Very light and fine, similar to milo lopi: United States of America. Hawaii. Distaff for tulle. Fashionable for use on headdresses. spinning thread. mikado: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1875, mimi-kakusi: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. Literally silk alpaca that imitated Jap silk. “hiding the ear,” a woman’s hairstyle. mikini humuhumu: United States of America. Hawaii. min nap: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of Sewing machine. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a thin, cotton- mikini lima: United States of America. Hawaii. Liter- padded jacket lined with dai fong chau. It opened ally “hand mitten,” glove. down the front with six buttons or down the right miktorin: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s breast with five buttons. It was more comfortable wrapped garment, cloak, or scarf. and less expensive than a ma gua. mila: Lithuania. Woolen homespun cloth. minalim: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew shoes. milakatra: Peru. Katra with several wide red stripes. minart tunic: (1910–1920 C.E.). Belted, knee-length tu- Milan: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1864, color be- nic with wire flared edge. tween salmon and corn. minda: Masai. A horseshoe-shaped brass ear ornament. Milan bonnet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United mindīl: See mandīl. Kingdom. Cap with crown like a beret and a rolled mînecare: Romania. Man’s knitted woolen cuff worn brim. Brim was often slit and the crown was some- over the wrist. times slashed and trimmed. Minerva bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– Milan coat: Term referring to light armor. 1815 C.E.). Fashionable in 1812, bonnet shaped like Milan hat: Tailored fine straw hat. a helmet and featuring a long ostrich feather worn Milan lace: Tape lace easily imitated by machine. draped across the front. Milanese: 1. Silk or rayon warp-knit fabric with diago- ming guang kai: China. Wei, Jin, Southern and North- nal cross pattern used in gloves. 2. Bustle (1865–1890 ern dynasties. Iron or copper armor, highly shined. C.E.). In 1874, glacé poplinette. mini: (1960–1969 C.E.). Woman’s very short skirt. Milanese lace: Heavy Baroque bobbin lace. miniceag: Ireland. Gaelic word for kidskin. Milanese taffeta: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced minicionn: Ireland. Gaelic word for calfskin. in 1880, semi-transparent silk fabric woven on the minicionn-laoigh: Ireland. Gaelic word for kidskin. crossgrain. minifalda: Spain. . Milanie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, woman’s minigonna: Italy. Miniskirt. crocheted purse with a tassel at the bottom. minijupe: France. Miniskirt. milas: Lithuania. Woolen homespun cloth. Minirock: Germany. Miniskirt. milfa: United Arab Emirates. Woman’s face mask. minirok: Holland. Miniskirt. military frock coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle miniver: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Fur of unknown type (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Frock coat with used as trim. Today the term generally refers to ermine. mockado 193 mink: Very durable fur of the weasel (Mustela vison). mitiafu: Samoa. Singlet. Best furs are bluish brown. mitile: Italy. Generic term for shell. mino: Japan. An overcoat. mitons: See moufles. min-soo: Korea. Amateur embroidery. mitra: Scarf with ties on the ends so that it could be mintaqa: Arabia. Military belt. worn in a number of styles. In Persia, Arabia, and mintean: Romania. Man’s long coat. Asia Minor, worn like a turban. In Phrygia, worn as mintiyan: Palestine. Man’s long-sleeved satin jacket. a cap with ties under the chin. The Greeks considered Minuit: See mignonette. it an effeminate style. minyiing: Zaire. Type of mask. mitt: Fingerless glove. miotag: Ireland. Gaelic word for worsted glove. mitten gauntlet: Late Gothic miqna‘: See miqna‘a. (1350–1450 C.E.). A standard miqna‘a: Arabia. Face veil. part of mail armor, a gauntlet Mirandella: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, taffeta glove with lames that covered mantelet with black lace and figured ribbon. the fingers in one piece like a mirchal: See morchal. mitten, rather than with indi- mirjāi: India. Bagalbandi that closes in the center front. vidually jointed fingers. mitten gauntlet mirliton: 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. mitten sleeve: Gay Nineties Dover Publications Elaborate version of haiduk. Tall black felt cap with (1890–1900 C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in long cloth tail. 2. Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.). Hussar 1891, lace sleeve that fitted the arm snugly and hat with inverted funnel shape trimmed with cock- reached to the knuckles. ade, plume, and cords. mitu-ori: Japan. A man’s made by creating a miro: New Zealand. Maori. Thread created by twisting cylindrical shape in the back with the upper part bent a fiber by rolling it between the hands. forward. miroir silk: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, a mituwa: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. Literally “three glace silk with hint of moiré. loops,” a woman’s hairstyle. mirror velvet: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Watered mi’zar: 1. See izar. 2. Arabia. Knee-length pants. velvet that appeared to have reflections in it. mizz: Arabia. Snug fitting slippers made from a soft mirya: See nirya. Cordovan leather. misaru: India. A cotton and silk blend fabric. mkufu: Swahili. Silver neck chain. misè: China. Cream colored. mlawlaw: Palestine. Couched embroidery design. misericorde: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Dagger of mo: Japan. 1. Skirt. 2. Fujiwara woman’s pleated train. mercy, worn by knights on their right hip. mo gà: Vietnam. Light yellow. miser’s purse: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Ro- moab: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular from 1865 to mantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Long, beaded, tube-shaped 1870, turban with round crown. purse. See also stocking-purse. Moabite turban: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular in mishlah: See bisht. 1832, ladies’ turban made of crepe with a feather on misofori: Greece. An everyday skirt. one side. Worn tilted to the back of the head. misri: See qatifah-i-purbi. moat collar: Narrow standing collar on a bateau neckline. misru: See mashru. mob-cap: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Large, round, mission cloth: Rough, canvaslike fabric, similar to soft lady’s cap with a soft, full brim. Often made of monk’s cloth. muslin or linen and trimmed with lace and ribbons. mission net: Leno weave fabric with a large mesh. Around 1780, had a pleated border and was edged mistake: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). in lace. Introduced in 1806, shaded silk used for ribbons. mobondam: Korea. Silk damask. mistake hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 mocassin: Holland. Moccasin. C.E.). Introduced in 1804, ladies’ hat made of straw moccasin: Leather shoe or slipper. or chip and had a tall flat-topped crown. Front brim mocha: Expensive, soft leather turned up while the back brim turned down. Worn that is used for gloves. Sueded positioned on the back of the head. on both sides. mistral: Worsted fabric with a nub. mochi: India. Male professional mitaine: France. Mitten. embroiderers. moccasin miter: Liturgical costume. Headdress worn by bishops. mock see hai: See hock see hai. High hat made of two pointed oval-like stiffened mockado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Late Geor- pieces of fabric. From the back hang two narrow gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Imitation velvet, often made fringed strips of fabric. of wool. 194 mocota mocota: India. Socks. mòjing: China. Sunglasses. modacrylic: Synthetic textile fiber. mokasyny: Poland. Moccasins. modano: Italy. Square mesh ground. mokdori: Korea. Neckerchief. Modena: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, pelerine mokgori: Korea. Necklace. with gathered sleeves. Trimmed with two rows of mok’kus sin: United States of America. Massachusetts’s taffeta galoon with a velvet edge. name for moccasins. Modena red: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1827, a moktor: Korea. Muffler; scarf; boa. fushsia. mokume-shibori: Japan. Tie-dyeing in a wood grain modeste: See jupe. pattern. modestie: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Decorative Moldavian mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United stomacher. In United Kingdom, called the modesty Kingdom. Ladies’ mantle with a long cape that fell bit. over the arms in large folds that were referred to as modesty bit: See modestie. elephant sleeves. modesty piece: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late mole: Soft iridescent fur of the Talpa Europaea. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Bit of lace or linen edged mole gray: Dark gray. with lace pinned to the top of the corset to cover a : Lightly napped fabric with a velvety finish. low decolletage. moletón: Spain. Moleksin. modrwy: Wales. Finger ring. moletón reversible: Spain. Molleton. moegi: Japan. Bright green. molleton: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1865, moelola: United States of America. Hawaii. Striped thick smooth surfaced flannel. tapa. mollitan: See molleton. moesje: Holland. Beauty spot. molochine: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). A mallow- mofeler: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- colored muslin from India. dom. Scarf worn around the neck like a modern molton: Holland. Swanskin. muffler. mòlù: China. Blackish green. mofeta: Spain. 1. Skunk. 2. Fur of the civet cat. : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Used in 1880s, mofuku: Japan. Mourning wear. cotton or silk and woolen blend that was similar to mogadore: Ribbed silk fabric named for the Moroccan a fine crepe. Commonly black in color and used for seaport. Used in making men’s ties. mourning clothes. mogan: Ireland. Gaelic word for footless stocking; sock; momie crepe: Lightweight cotton crepe fabric. blouse; or the leg of a pair of trousers or drawers. momme: Japan. Unit of weight (3.75 grams) used to de- mogan briogais: Ireland. Gaelic word for the leg of a scribe weight of silk fabric. The higher the momme, pair of trousers. the heavier the fabric. moggan: Scotland. Long footless stocking or knitted momohiki: Japan. Knee-length breeches or panta- sleeve. loons. mogul breeches: See pajama. momo-ware: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. Literally mohair: 1. Hair from the Angora goat. 2. Fabric like bril- “parted peach,” a woman’s hairstyle. liantine. 3. Pile fabric with cotton or wool back and mompe: Japan. Baggy trousers. mohair pile. mon: Japan. Family crest. moiré: 1. Watered or waved effect on fabric. 2. Bustle monache: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). The best quality (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1886, cloudy white. muslin from India. moiré française: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, monachino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Red- a silken fabric with narrow water marks. dish brown. Occasionally used as mourning color by moiré velours: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Intro- widows and as a color for a utilitarian garment. duced in 1897, silk and wool mix watered velvet with monastic silhouette: (1920–1930 and 1930–1940 C.E.). large irregular pattern. Dress resembling in cut that of a monk’s robe. Hung Moiréseide: Spain. Moleskin. loosely from the shoulders and was belted in at the moirette: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Introduced waist. in 1896, light worsted fabric with a watered surface. mon-chirimen: Japan. Heavy crepe with a woven dot. Slightly stiffened and used for petticoats. Mönchskappe: Germany. Cowl. moisson: France. Literally “harvest,” refers to the use of monétra: Greece. White cotton kerchief. golden wheat and tiny roses in trim. mong pao: (1900–1910 C.E.). United States of America. moja: Korea. Brimless cap. Chinese Hawaiian term for a traditional bridal man- mojdī: India. Close-fitting leather slippers embroidered tle of red satin embroidered with colored silk and with gold or silver. They are similar to ballet shoes. golden threads. Moresco 195 mongolia: Italy. Tibet lamb fur (Ovis aries) characterized montero: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Rounded fur by a light coat and long white ringlets. cap with a turned up brim. Mongolia: Germany. Mongolia. monteroe: See montero. monial: Elizabethan. Enameled or jeweled ornament Montespan: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Ladies’ sleeve found on the ecclesiastical glove. with a full upper arm, a band at the elbow, and a monīle: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Necklace. forearm ruffle. monjil: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Widow’s Montespan corsage: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United weeds. Kingdom. Snug-fitting ladies’ evening bodice with a monkey: Hide with long, black hair. very low, square cut decolletage and deeply pointed monkey skin: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in waist in both front and back. 1858, popular fabric for women’s muffs. Montespan hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United monk’s cloth: Rough, heavy, basket weave fabric of cot- Kingdom. Ladies’ small round hat with a turned up ton and wool or linen and wool. brim. Included plume and was worn for evening. Monmouth cap: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Montespan pleats: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Tall crowned, brimless knitted cap. 2. Kingdom. Popular in 1859 and 1860s, series of large United States of America. Originally made in Mon- flat double or triple box pleats sewn to the waistband mouth, known as Capper’s Town, a popular flat, of a skirt. round cap with a disk-shaped crown. Montespan sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United monnikskap: Holland. Cowl. Kingdom. Ladies’ sleeve with a full upper arm, a mono: Spain. 1. Monkey fur. 2. Overalls. band at the elbow, and a ruffle over the lower arm. monócula: Portugal. Monocle. Montpensier cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced monograma: Spain. Monogram. in 1871, smooth soft cloth twilled on the reverse. monogramma: Italy. Monogram. Montpensier mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). : Bottom half of bikini. United Kingdom. Ladies’ mantle that hung low in monpe: Japan. Baggy cotton trousers originally worn both the front and the back with slits up the sides to by farmers. allow the arms to be free. monsha: Japan. Woven silk gauze with pattern. montsuki: Japan. A crested ceremonial kimono. monster green: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1827, a monty-coat: Holland. . new color. moonstone: Milky, translucent semi-precious stone. montagnac: Thick, soft, woolen overcoat fabric. Named mooree: See moorie. for its inventor, de Montagnac of France. moorie: India. Broad cloth exported to Straits of Ma- Montague curls: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- lacca. dom. Introduced in 1877, ladies’ evening coiffure Moorish boot: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced that included a crescent-shaped arrangement of curls in 1807, shoe of colored kid that laced in the front. glued to the forehead. Moorish lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Moroccan Montana: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, woman’s lace, similar to Maltese lace. lined talma of moiré antique with wide band of vel- : Heavy jacquard velvet. vet. Closed with three frogs. morado: 1. Ecuador and Guatemala. Purple. 2. Spain. Montana peak: See campaign hat. Magenta. monté la haute: Charles I and the Commonwealth Moravian work: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 (1625–1660 C.E.). France. Wires used to raise and C.E.). Return to 16th-century cutwork with buttonhol- lower the hem of a dress. ing at the edges. Early version of broderie anglaise. montebello: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in morchal: India. Fan or fly whisk of peacock feathers. 1872, dark garnet. moreen: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Montebello: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, Chan- Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Hardy cotton, wool, or tilly lace mantilla with two deep flounces. blend fabric with a rib. Often had moiré surface. 2. monteith: Named for its Scottish manufacturer. Cotton Strong cotton and/or wool fabric used for upholstery handkerchief featuring a colored background and a and draperies. white design, created through the use of . morella: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 montenegrin: 1. Ladies’ fitted overgarment trimmed C.E.). Fabric used for dresses and drapery. with braid and embroidery. 2. Close fitting hat. morello: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Term re- montera: 1. Bolivia. Black molded-leather helmet ferring to the color mulberry, one of the colori coro- shaped like a conquistador’s helmet. It is often zosi. Common for everyday dress. trimmed with sequins, rosettes, and small tassels. 2. Moresco: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1856, wom- Spain. Toreador hat. an’s cloth cloak with deep Vs of velvet and buttons. 196 moresque

2. In 1857, woman’s moiré shawl with a V front and Trimmed in astrakhan fur and had a turned collar of back. Trimmed with fringe. 3. In 1858, woman’s the same. three-quarter-circle shawl trimmed with lace and mosi: Korea. Ramie. passementerie. mosolin: See muslin. moresque: To be decorated in the Moorish style. moss cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1878, morga: Guatemala. Heavy cloth; heavy weave, dark silk and wool blend fabric with a soft, rich, mossy cotton skirt. surface. morganite: Rose colored beryl. moss green: Gray green. morikkoji: Korea. Woman’s hairpin. mossy crepe: Crepe with a fine, mossy texture. : Renaissance (1450–1550 mosulrin: Korea. Muslin. See also okyangmok. C.E.). Helmet with a curved brim. môt chiec: Vietnam. A sock. morisco work: Renaissance môt ðôi: Vietnam. A pair of socks. (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- mothadā: India. Checkered tie-dye textiles. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Form of mother hubbard: (20th century). Loose-fitting house- couched embroidery using gold dress. or silver thread working ara- Mother Hubbard cloak: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). besque patterns. United Kingdom. Ladies’ three-quarter length coat moritkirum: Korea. Hair oil. with a high collar that tied shut. Made of plush, vel- morning coat: Crinoline (1840– vet, brocade, satin, or cashmere, lined and quilted. morion 1865 C.E.). Gentleman’s swallow- After 1882, vented in the back to allow draping over tail or curved skirted coat worn the bustle. for formal morning wear. moti: 1. India. Glass beads, particularly Venetian Murano morning glory skirt: (20th century). Ladies’ skirt which beads. 2. India. Beadwork. 3. Samoa. Scarification. was extremely fitted over the hips and then flared motia: India. Light red. into a large bell at the hem. moticuri tamaru: India. A white stuff for export to Ti- morning gown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United mar Island. Kingdom. Worn from late 18th century through motiya: India. Pink. 1830s, long loose indoor coat worn sashed. motley: To be variegated in color. moro: Zaire. Indigo. moto-yui: Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. The strings used morocco: Goatskin leather. to tie up a woman’s hairstyle. morone: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). mouche: France. Literally “fly,” a small black patch on United Kingdom. Red. the face. morrales: Mexico. Handwoven shoulder bag carried by mouched: See mouchouer. men. mouchoir: France. Handkerchief. Morresca: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, woman’s mouchoir Alma: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, cloak with bertha fitted to the shoulders. embroidered pocket-handkerchief with rounded cor- morse: Pin or brooch used to secure the cope. ners. Edged with narrow Valenciennes lace. mortier: Worn by French lawyers, cap shaped like den- mouchoir de Venus: Charles I and the Commonwealth tist’s mortar bowl. (1625–1660 C.E.). Handkerchief. It was often given as mortling: Obsolete term for wool from dead sheep. an amorous gift. A pink or blue one indicated warm moruori: Japan. Indian silk. feelings; mauve, tempestuous feelings or sadness. mös sa: Sweden. Cap. mouchoir Victoria: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, mosaic gauze: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced pocket-handkerchief embroidered with a miniature in 1820, new variety of gauze. flotilla and escutcheons in the corners. mosalka: Poland. Hasidic Jew’s silk skull-cap. mouchouer: France. Breton for handkerchief. moschettos: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 moufles: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fingerless gloves C.E.). United Kingdom. Men’s pantaloons made to fit used for hunting or rough work. Later it meant the over the boots like a gaiter. sleeve extension over the hand. moscovite: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Wide, flat cords on moulds: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- satin surface of silk. dom. Men’s drawers that were bombasted. The bal- moscow: Heavy woolen overcoat fabric. loon shaped breeches were supported by these. Moscow wrapper: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Wom- moulinee: Plied multicolored yarns used in suiting. an’s 3/4 length, satin lined circular cape. 2. Bustle moultan muslin: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Scotland. (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1874, man’s full- Muslin with a woven in pattern. Made in Glasgow, cut overcoat with pagoda sleeves and a fly front. Scotland. muktika-hara 197 mountain moss: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced mu da: Vietnam. Felt hat. in 1859, fabric similar to beaver fur. Came in solid mu mán: Vietnam. Mourning cap. colors and patterns and was used for loose capes. mu miên: Vietnam. Crown. mountero: See montero. mua: Samoa. Stripe. : White Irish embroidery. muaré: Spain. Moiré. mourning crepe: Dull semi-sheer crepe with moiré effect. mubaf: India. Broad fillet. mousceline: See muslin. mubarshi bakin fara: Nigeria. White muslin turban mousquetaire: 1. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. worn by middle-class men. Typical glove of the Cavalier; heavy gauntleted muckender: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Handker- glove made in leather. Frequently embroidered and chief, napkin, or bib. fringed in lace. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Cloth mudang morikkoji: Korea. Shaman’s hairpins. coat trimmed with large buttons and ribbons. Popu- muddi: India. Two small connected finger rings stud- lar around 1855. ded with gems. mousquetaire cuff: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular mudhahhab: Arabia. Fabric gilded on the surface. from 1868 to 1889, cuff with a crinkled effect. mudrika: India. A signet ring. mousquetaire mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In- muduveya javali: India. Wedding fabric. troduced in 1847, ladies’ black velvet mantle with muff: Separate, tube shaped covering for woman’s short loose sleeves. Trimmed with braid, pockets, hands. Worn for warmth. and had quilted satin lining. muff bracelet: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Ladies’ mousquetaire sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- small muff worn on the wrist. duced in 1854 and revived in 1873, ladies’ full sleeve muff string: Ribbon from which hung the muff. with turned cuff, cut with deep points. muffetees: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Crinoline mousselin aboukir: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. Small wrist muffs worn to pro- new fabric. tect the wrist ruff during card play or for warmth. 2. mousseline: 1. Fine, soft French muslin. 2. Any light- Small muffs sewn shut at one end and worn over the weight, sheer, crisp fabric finer than muslin. hand for warmth. mousseline de laine: France. Lightweight wool muslin, muffin hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- often printed. Used for dresses. See also nun’s cloth. dom. Popular in 1860s, man’s flat crowned, round, mousseline de soie: France. Transparent silk fabric, of- country hat with a narrow turned-up brim. ten figured. Called pineapple fabric when stiffened. muffler: Heavy scarf worn around throat. Used in making foundations, dresses, blouses. mufflers: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). mousseline grenadine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1871, United Kingdom. Armored mittens. fine tarlatane. mufti: Term referring to clothing of an officer of the mousseline soie: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, silk English army or navy when in civilian dress. muslin. muga: India. One of best wild silks. mouth veil: Veil draped across the face to cover only mugiwara bō: Japan. Hat woven out of barley straw. the mouth and chin area. mui dát: Vietnam. Cape. mouton: Processed lambskin. muibaf: India. Hari ribbon. mouw: Holland. Sleeve. muince: Ireland. Gaelic word for necklace. moyle: Mule. muinead: Ireland. Gaelic word for collar or necklace. Mozambique: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced muinge: Ireland. Gaelic word for collar. in 1865, silk broché wool grenadine. muintorc: See muince. mozetta: Worn by some church dignitaries, hooded mukhmal: Palestine. Velvet fabric. cape. mukhta: India. Embroidery pattern of comb ducks. : See mozetta. mukhu-wara: Peru. Thick white cotton apron with split mpttull: See feldr. legs worn by men to protect their trousers from thorns. mrezhera prestilka: Bulgaria. Apron joined with net in mukla: Egypt. Wide, formal turban worn by religious a horizontal seam. men. msayyaha: Palestine. Silk kafiyyeh. : Moccasin-like sports shoe. mshona wa Elizabethi: Swahili. A dress with a circular muktajala: India. Hairnet of pearls. opening at the neck. muktavali: India. Single string mshona wa mwavuli: Swahili. Literally “umbrella cut,” pearl necklace. a flared skirt. muktika-hara: India. Pearl neck- mukluk mshona wa Rosi: Swahili. A dress with a V-neck in both lace with three strings with 32, See also photospread front and back. 64, and 108 pearls respectively. (Foot and Legwear). 198 mukut

mukut: India. A crown. murassa-jadau: India. Ornament worn on the pagdi. mukuta: India. A cap, tiara, or crest. murchal: See morchal. mukyeeng: Zaire. Type of mask. murkī: India. Small gold ring worn pierced through the mulabbada: Arabia. Felted wrap. earlobe. mulberry: Reddish blue. murmel: Italy. Marmot fur. mule: 1. (1910–1920 C.E.). Women’s Murmeltier: Germany. Marmot fur. high-heeled slipper with no back. 2. murray: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, new color be- Any slip-on shoe with no back. tween violet and claret. muletón de lana: Spain. Duffel murrey: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Mulberry cloth. color. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Purplish red. muleus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 murry: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration mule C.E.). Magistrate’s red or violet (1660–1700 C.E.). Mulberry color. colored boots. musa: Persia. Fur cloak with wide sleeves. mull: Soft, sheer, plain weave fabric of cotton or silk musaftaj: Arabia. Stiff linen. and cotton blend. musayyar: Arabia. Luxurious striped silk. Muller-cut-down: Bustle (1865– muscadin: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). 1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Pop- In 1790s, term referring to an overdressed and musk- ular name for a man’s half-height perfumed patriot. top hat. Named after the 1864 muscadine: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 murderer whose half-height hat C.E.). Musk-scented pastille. Name was extended led to his recognition and arrest. to mean the effeminate men who, overdressed, Muller-cut-down See also photospread mullu: Ecuador. Quichua word commonly wore this scent, and carried a long walk- (Headwear). for a woman’s many stranded ing stick. necklace. Muscovite: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, wom- mullutuma: Bolivia. Network of colored braiding on an’s velvet cloak with wide fur trim. 2. Bustle (1865– huaka. 1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1884, thick corded silk. mulmul: India. Soft, thin muslin. Muscovite velvet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced mulmul khas: India. A royal muslin that is very fine in 1883, velvet brocade on a ribbed silk ground. and lightweight. muselina: Spain. Muslin. mulmull: See malmal. muselina de la india: Spain. India muslin. mulot: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1885, field mouse color. musequí: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Large multipointed fold: Where all four corners of a handker- puff (as in a sleeve). chief emerge from a pocket. musette bag: Canvas or leather wallet hung from a mumavadi: India. A waxed rainproof cloth. shoulder strap and carried by soldiers. mummy brown: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1827, a mush: United Kingdom. Slang for umbrella. new color. musha‘‘ara: Arabia. Furry shoes from Yemen. mummy cloth: 1. Cotton, silk, or rayon crepe suede for mushajjar: See qatafah-i-purbi. dresses. 2. Sheer fabric, similar to fabric of ancient mushal: See shash. Egypt. 3. Loosely woven fabric in which mummies mushroom: Small, round-crowned hat with a turned- were wrapped. down brim. mumu sesega: Samoa. Orange color. : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- mumusali: Samoa. Scarlet color. dom. Popular in 1870s and 1880s, ladies’ straw muna-medare: Japan. A style of apron. mushroom-shaped hat elaborately trimmed with rib- mundasa: India. A turban or a cloth worn wrapped bon, flowers, or a bird. around a turban. mushroom sleeve: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). mundash: India. General term for a headdress. United Kingdom. Introduced in 1894, ladies’ short mundāsi: See talepā. evening sleeve pleated into the armseye and trimmed mundil: Turban elaborately decorated with metallic with a lace frill. embroidery. mushru: Indian cotton backed satin. mundir: Russia. Uniform jacket. musk melon bun: China. Woman’s hairstyle. mungo: Inferior fabric made from woolen rags. muskrat: Short, silky, straight fur in silver to brown or muoddá: Norway. Fur tunic. dyed to simulate sealskin, mink, or sable. murabba: Egypt. Square neckline. muslin: Plain weave, natural colored, cotton fabric. muraja: India. A girdle. muslin de laine: Fine, lightweight, plain weave, wor- murasaki: Japan. Purple; a purple dye. sted fabric. mysore 199 muslin deaths: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 muttonchops: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Men’s large C.E.). United Kingdom. Nickname for very sheer sideburns extending onto the jawline. muslin gowns. They were so called due to the num- mütze: Germany. Old word for hood. ber of deaths of wearers brought on by chills. Mütze: United States of America. Amish man’s frock muslinet: Thick muslin or light cotton fabric. coat with a split tail. musqin: India. Musk. mu‘u mu‘u: United states of America. Hawaii. Wom- musquash: United Kingdom. Muskrat skin. an’s underslip or chemise; loose, yokeless, short- mussolen: See muslin. sleeved gown. mussolina: Italy. Muslin. mu‘umu‘u moe po: United States of America. Hawaii. mussolo: See muslin. Literally “slip for sleeping at night,” nightgown. must deviles: See mustardevelin. muwanna: Palestine. Shaded embroidery thread. mustard: Yellowish green. muzarkash: See zarqash. mustard villars: See mustardevelin. mwa kwa: China. Mandarin-collared jacket. mustardevelin: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Mixed mwa non: Thailand. Woman’s lampshade shaped, wide blend gray woolen fabric. Made in Montivilliers in brimmed, palm leaf hat. Normandy. mwaandaan: Zaire. Official belt. mustardevillers: See mustardevelin. myllion: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan musui: Hungary. Skirt. (1840–1865 C.E.). Milanese fustian. muszuj: Hungary. Woman’s wide skirt with smocked myojushil: Korea. Silk thread. pleats. Not sewn in center front. Of black or dark myongju: Korea. Lightweight silk fabric woven in plain blue satin or cotton. Has wide band at the bottom, weave of irregular threads of raw silk. Very soft and often embroidered. The two front corners are tucked warm. in the waist to expose the petticoat. myonsa: Korea. Cotton yarn. mùtan: Ireland. 1. Muff. 2. Thick glove. 3. Fingerless glove. mysore: United Kingdom. Plain weave, dyed cotton mutarraz bil-dhahab: Arabia. Fabric embroidered with fabric made for export. gold thread. mutch: Snug cap of linen or muslin worn by old women and babies. mutria: Spain. Otter. muts: Holland. Cap. See also baret. mutsje: See huif. mutsuki: Japan. Baby diaper. mutton leg sleeve: Crino- line (1840–1865 C.E.). Worn by women, a full cut sleeve that was heavily pleated where it was set into the dropped shoulder and gathered onto a wristband. The style evolved from the leg-of- mutton sleeves of the earlier Ro- mutton leg sleeve mantic period.

N

na krilo : Bulgaria. Woman’s hairstyle where hair is naeui: See sokot. braided into many small braids which gradually be- naewang: Korea. Undergarment. come one large braid. naga-juban: Japan. The long undergarment worn with naajuban: Japan. Full-length under kimono worn over the kimono. a cotton undershirt and half-slip. nagarā: India. Plain leather shoes hooked at the ankle. naal: Denmark. Needle. naga-tenuge: Japan. A rural woman’s kerchief. naald: Holland. Needle. nagdeh: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 naaldhak: Holland. . C.E.). Persia. Compound weave fabric. nabchet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan nages: Full mourning black frieze skirts. (1550–1625 C.E.). Slang term for a hat or cap. nagrudnik: Bulgaria. Bodice front with strings of coins nabob: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- attached to it. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Thin East India fabric. naguilla: See enagua. naboika: Russia. Printed fabric. náhrdelnú: Czechoslovakia. Necklace. nácar: Portugal. Mother-of-pearl. nail: United Arab Emirates. Sandal. nacarat: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). náilon: Portugal. Nylon. Light red. 2. Fine linen or crepe dyed red orange. nailoni: Samoa. Nylon. naccarat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). nailron: Korea. Nylon. United Kingdom. Orange. : India. Soft, light, bleached, plain weave cot- Nachtgewand: See Nachthemd. ton with a lustrous finish on one side. Solid colored Nachthemd: Germany. Nightdress. or striped. nachtjapon: Holland. Nightgown. nainsukh: See nainsook. nachttabbaert: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles naizhào: China. Brassiere. I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Holland. najon: Korea. Nacre. From 1600 to 1660, term meaning night wear. naka: See nam-king. nacre: France. Mother-of-pearl. nakara color: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 nacre burgau: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Dark mother-of- C.E.). Popular in 1812 and after, pearl color. pearl used for accessories. naksatramala: India. Necklace of 27 strings of pearls. nacré velvet: Iridescent velvet with the back of one : India. A kantha with elaborate pictorial color and the pile of another color creating change- embroidery. able appearance. nål: 1. Norway. Old word for needle. 2. Sweden. Nee- nada: India. A skirt drawstring. dle; pin. Nadel: Germany. Needle. nama ha zome: Japan. Dyeing with fresh indigo. nādela: Germany. Old word for needle. namaakbusten: Holland. Falsies. nādele: Germany. Old word for needle. namaksin: See totnamaksin. Nadelspitze: Germany. Needlepoint lace. nambawi: Korea. Man’s lined silk cap for winter. It has nadoknada: Bosnia. Makeup. back flap, ear muffle, and circular opening in the top. nadoz: France. Breton for needle. It is trimmed with fur and held on with sashes under naemet: See namda. the chin.

201 202 namda

namda: India. Felt. : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- nam-king: India. . dom. Man’s long military boots that reached above ñañaca: Ecuador and Guatemala. Incan woman’s the knee and were dipped in behind the knee headcloth. to allow movement. Popular for horseback riding. ñañacas: Bolivia. Inca term for a headcloth. Named for the Prince, later Napoleon III. ñañaka: See ñañaca. nappina: Italy. Tassel. nanako-kokechi: Japan. Very fine tie-dyeing. napron: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) nankeen: China. Imported from Nankin, China, a du- to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. rable, light tan cotton fabric. Middle English word for apron. nankin: 1. Dense, plain weave, cotton fabric with a naqsha: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration white warp and a colored weft. 2. Spain. Nankeen. (1660–1700 C.E.). Persia. Woman’s trousers. Nankin nishiki: Japan. Nishiki from Nankin. Nara : Japan. The best quality ramie made in Nara. nansú: Spain. Nainsook. náramek: Czechoslovakia. Bracelet. naočare: Bosnia. Spectacles. naramiennik: Poland. Bracelet. See also bransoletka. nao-halu‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Tapa pat- narandžast: Bosnia. Orange colored. tern with lines. narangi: India. The color orange. nao-ua-ha‘ao: United States of America. Hawaii. Tapa narcorat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Dark claret. pattern. narmma-haripha: India. A soft stuff from Hira or Herat. nao-ua-nanahuki: United States of America. Hawaii. narukvica: Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia. Bracelet. Tapa pattern. näsduk: Sweden. Handkerchief. nap: Fuzzy surface projecting on some fabric. Forms nasgadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for collar. direction when brushed. nasheq rohoh: Palestine. White fabric with a border. napa leather: Originally from Napa, California, a tanned Used for underdresses. sheepskin or lambskin used for gloves. nasij: India. A silk stuff embroidered with gold. napery: Linen for household use. nasitergium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Nose hand- napkin: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Handkerchief for kerchief. the nose. nasta: See nath. napkin hook: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Res- nastalik: India. Plain white muslin full court dress tur- toration (1660–1700 C.E.). Waistband hook for the ban. handkerchief. Popular gift to young girls from nastro: Italy. Ribbon. young men. nasture: Romania. Button. napkin-cap: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late naszyjnik: Poland. Necklace. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s nightcap to cover Natalie: Crinoline (1840–1865 the unwigged head. C.E.). Introduced in 1862, black Naples lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- silk pardessus with pagoda tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Made in Naples, Italy, a black sleeves and black lace inserted silk lace. at the sides. Trimmed with nar- náplitsi: Greece. Beaded trimming for braids. row velvet strips. napoleon: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). nath: India. Woman’s nose-ring. Top boot designed by Napoleon. nati: See natiyo. Napoleon collar: Standing, natiyo: India. A hood worn as a turned-down collar popularly sunscreen by a child. worn with wide revers. natté: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In- Natalie Napoleon costume: (1900–1910 troduced in 1874, firm silk that C.E.). In 1905, a dress with a resembled cane plaiting. straight stand collar with turn- natural beaver: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, down, wide revers, and braid light brown or fawn. trim. Naugahyde: Trade name for vinyl coated fabric used Napoleon necktie: Romantic mostly in upholstery. (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- Navailles: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, taffeta dom. Man’s narrow necktie that shawl-mantelet trimmed with lace and fringe. crosses in the front without tying Navarino smoke: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Shade and is attached to the suspenders. lighter than London smoke. Violet colored. After 1830, called navershnik: Russia. Child’s tunic which is worn as an napoleon the Corsican tie. outer garment. nerc 203 navette: France. Tatting shuttle. needlecord: (1930–1940 C.E.). United Kingdom. In 1938, navoi: Bulgaria. Rectangular pieces of white woolen a velvet or fine rib corduroy used for men’s shirts. that are wound around the feet to below the knee. needlepoint lace: Lace made with a sewing needle. Held on with white hemp cords. neerstick: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles I and navy: Medium dark blue. the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Holland. From navy blue: Dark purple blue with a gray tint. 1600 to 1660 C.E., a tucker. nawame-irokawa: Japan. Leather dyed in a zigzag pat- negligee: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Informal tern. attire for either gender. 2. Romantic (1815–1840 ncak: 1. Zaire. Women’s dress. 2. Kuba. See nshak. C.E.). Ladies’ jet mourning girdle with a nine-inch ncaka ishyeen: Zaire. Short overskirt. pendant. Worn in public mourning of Princess Char- ncok: Zaire. Conical hat. lotte in 1818. 3. Term referring to ladies’ nightwear ndeve: Kikuyu. Circular, wooden ear ornament. or lingerie. ndik’a’: Navaho. Cotton. negligee de la volupte: See gown à la levantine. ndop: Cameroon. Blue-dyed strip fabric with white negligee garters: Garters worn on belt. resist patterns. négrillon: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, brown that nduli: Sierra Leone. White cotton cloth. is almost black. ndului: Sierra Leone. Pure white color. negro: Portugal. Black. nèapaicin anhaich: Ireland. Neckerchief. negro carbón: Spain. Carbon black. nèapaicin pòca: Ireland. Pocket handkerchief. negro como azeviche: Portugal. Jet black. Neapolitan bonnet: Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.). United negulrije: See silnaebok. Kingdom. Ladies’ leghorn bonnet with straw flowers Nehru cap: Medium-crowned, brimless cap with a deep and ribbons. front-to-back crease, and cuff-like flaps around the Neapolitan hat: Hat of lacy fiber or horsehair braid. crown. Neapolitan headdress: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Nehru jacket: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of Amer- United States of America. In 1817, full dress hat of ica. Introduced in 1968, jacket with standing collar striped gauze and silver trim. that buttoned up the front to the neck and was fitted neas-nam-fuar-thìrean: Ireland. Ermine. at the waist. neat’s leather: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Leather nei tao: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Long, made from the hide of oxen and used for footwear. blue silk gown with horse-hoof cuffs worn by gradu- nebula headdress: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United ates of the Manchu civil exam. Kingdom. 19th-century term for a woman’s head- neiguse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1877, dress. Also known as the goffered veil. twill woolen fabric with a rough surface. neck button: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– nèiyi: China. Underwear. 1660 C.E.). United Kingdom. Decorative button with nekhau: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Pendant amulet in loop at the neck of a doublet. Sometimes left undone the shape of a fish. to expose the shirt beneath it. nekhaw: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Metal fish pendant neck-chain: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Decorative typically worn on child’s side-lock. chain worn by men. In 17th century, called jack chain. nek’och ìpù: See mokdori. neck handkerchief: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to nekt’ai: Korea. Necktie. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Cravat or tie. Nell Gwynne cap: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In July neckatee: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Handkerchief. 1860, lace breakfast cap with violet ribbon at top. neckband: Fitted band around neck; especially band to nelpiloni: Mexico. Aztec sash. which collar is attached. Nelson hat: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United neckcloth: Obsolete term for cravat or necktie. Kingdom. Introduced in 1895, straw hat with turned necked bonnet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United up brim. Trimmed with a front plume and side rib- Kingdom. Man’s cap with a deep back flap. bon bows. neckerchief: Square of fabric worn around neck. nemehef: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Unidentified green neckstock: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late stone used to make some scarabs. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Folded cravat with buckle headdress: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Symbol in back. of the pharaoh. Large rectangular scarf worn with nedle: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) two corners tied at nape of the neck. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. neora: Shiny, synthetic straw. Middle English word for needle. nēÞla: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic needle painting: A method of needlework that imitates (1350–1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Needle. oil painting. nerc: Bosnia. Mink. See also vison. 204 nerinuku nerinuku: Japan. Plain weave fabric with raw silk color lotus root gray. warps and degummed silk wefts. ngoc trao: Vietnam. Pearl. Nerz: Germany. Mink fur. ngoc-bích: Vietnam. Jasper. nesga: Spain. Gore; gusset. ngoc-miên: Vietnam. Jade crown. nesgada: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Gored. ngoc-thach: Vietnam. Jade. nestel: Holland. Aglet. ngore: Australia. Maori general term for cloaks covered Nestel: Germany. Lace for fastening clothing. in pompons. nesti: See dalkr. ngore paheke: Australia. Maori cloak trimmed with Nestila: Germany. Old High German word for a lace for decorative stitches and optional pompons. fastening clothing. ngozi ya kioo: Swahili. Patent leather. netcha: United States of America. Eskimo sealskin coat. nguyêt-bach: Vietnam. Bluish white. neteldoek: Holland. Muslin. nhac-ky: Vietnam. Tabard. nether integuments: See unmentionables. nhãn-kính: Vietnam. Eyeglasses. nether stocks: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Eliza- nhung-trang: Vietnam. Military uniform. bethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Lower ní: China. Wool fabric. portion of men’s hose. In 16th century, referred to nibi: See kochi. women’s stockings. nic’: Poland. Thread. netra: India. A kind of silk cloth. nicho-kinran: Japan. Kinran with one or two additional nettlecloth: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration background colors. (1660–1700 C.E.). Linen made from nettle fibers. Nicholas blue: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). New blue Netzstickerei: Germany. Embroidered netting. color in 1817. neud: France. Breton for thread. niciane rekawiczki: Poland. Thread gloves. neura: India. Jeweled anklets. nickel gray: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, dark silver Newgate fringe: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crino- tint. line (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Common nicola: India. A long robe. term for a fringe of beard under the jaw. nicula: See nicola. Newmarket coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United nificí forescá: Greece. Bridal costume. Kingdom. Single-or double-breasted man’s tailed nifles: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance riding coat with rounded fronts. Had cuffed sleeves (1450–1550 C.E.). Veil. and flap hip pockets. By 1850, referred to as cutaway night coif: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration and by 1870 it became the morning coat. (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s em- Newmarket jacket: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). broidered cap worn to bed. Sometimes worn with a Introduced in 1891, single- or double-breasted wom- forehead cloth. en’s hip-length day coat with a masculine turned night corset: Larger-waisted version of the day corset, collar and silk lapels. Had flap hip pockets and fitted a corset worn while sleeping in order keep the tight sleeves. lacing consistent day and night. Newmarket overcoat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United night of France blue: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In Kingdom. 1. In 1881, man’s short-waisted single- 1888, light watery green. breasted frock overcoat with long skirts. Commonly night rail: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Early Geor- had a velvet collar and cuffs. 2. In 1889, woman’s single- gian (1700–1750 C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s or double-breasted coat with long skirts. Had flap hip lawn, holland, silk, or satin waist-length cape. Worn pockets, fitted sleeves, velvet collar, lapels, and cuffs. in or out of doors. Newmarket top frock: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). nightcap: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). 1. Man’s skull United Kingdom. In 1895, man’s overcoat similar to cap with a small turned up brim. Worn indoors a frock coat with a velvet collar, waist pockets, and instead of a wig. 2. Man’s plain cap for sleeping. 3. long skirts. Commonly made of cheviot. Women’s mob cap that tied under the chin and was Newmarket vest: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United worn for sleeping. Kingdom. In 1894, man’s plaid or check waistcoat night-cap wig: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Man’s popular with sportsmen. wig with rolled curls circling the back of the head nezumi-iro: Japan. Gray. side to side. ngac: Vietnam. Crocodile. nightgown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Informal ng’andu: Swahili. Gold. gown with back pleats that were stitched down. It ngân-tinh công-vu: Vietnam. Silver necklace. was worn for receiving guests at home. ngau hui suck: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Nightingale: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, wom- States of America. Chinese Hawaiian term for the an’s moiré shawl with velvet trim. nón lông 205 night-kercher: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Res- nishra: Egypt. Large, black, finely woven rectangle toration (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Night with a fine plaid of red and white. Edges are fringed. neckerchief. Worn as a wrap. nigitae: Japan. A smooth cloth. niska: India. Necklace. niho-li‘ili‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally nit: Croatia and Serbia. Thread. “small teeth,” a tapa design. nit’: 1. Czechoslovakia. Thread. 2. Russia. Thread. niho-mano: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally nitambavastra: India. Woman’s undergarment worn “shark tooth,” a tapa design. over the hips. nihsvasaharya: India. Gown of very fine, white fabric. nithsdale: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United nihyakusan-koti: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. A Kingdom. Large bad-weather hood. Named for the woman’s hairstyle with a very high forelock. Countess Nithsdale, famous for helping her husband niigashi: Japan. The finest quality banana fiber cloth. escape from the by dressing him in nikautang: Micronesia. Woman’s long, loose, puffed- women’s clothing and a large hood. sleeve dress. nitka: 1. Poland. Thread. See also nic’. 2. See nit’. nil: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, a light wa- niukòu: China. Button. tery green color. niupàn: China. Button loop. nīlāmbarī: India. Blue sari. niúzaikù: China. Fitted pants; trousers. nilaniradanicola: India. A dark blue tunic. niuzi: China. Button. nilapatora: India. A blue silk. nivasana: India. Lower body garment; skirt. nilavata: India. An indigo-dyed silk. Nivernois: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United nile green: Yellowish green. Kingdom. Small tricorne popular with the Macaro- nileh: Palestine. Indigo, the most important dye. nies who wore it with a cadogan wig. Named for the nillae: India. Kind of blue cloth. French writer Nivernois. ni-lông: Vietnam. Nylon. nivi: India. Lower body garment; an apron-like under- niluhura: India. A stuff dyed in indigo. garment. nimā: India. Mid-thigh length, short-sleeved tunic. nivi bandha: India. The preliminary bow made to tie nima-pot: Guatemala. Ceremonial blouse or tunic. the anteriya to the waist. nimbus: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Gold embroidered nízi: China. Wool fabric. linen headband. njekloe: Sierra Leone. Black dye made from soot and nimtanah: India. Jacket. vegetable matter. nine-djere: Timbuktu. A filigree nose ring. njiru: Kikiuyu. Coil of brass wire worn in the ear. nine-tenths coat: (1960–1970 C.E.). Woman’s A-line coat nkrawou: Ashanti. Garment of appliquéd, embroidered reaching below the knee. colored felt. ninikea: United States of Amer- nnup: Zaire. Type of mask. ica. Hawaii. White tapa worn by nobleza: Spain. Duchesse. priests during ceremonies. nocna koszula: Poland. Nightgown. ninnoko: Ethiopia. Koma ritual nodder: Hat pin with ornament on a tiny spring which scarring, usually consisting of five nods as head moves. horizontal lines on many parts of nodwydd: Wales. Needle. the body. nœdl: United Kingdom. Old English word for needle. ninon: 1. Lightweight soft silk. 2. noeuds: France. Bow or knot of ribbon. Sheer, smooth, plain weave fabric. noeuds d’amour: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). nirangi: India. A wimple or veil. France. Literally “love knots,” referred to the bows nirmokinam: India. Fabric like or ties used as decoration on ladies’ gowns. snake’s slough. noggui-hongsang: Korea. Bride’s traditional set consist- nirnejaka: India. A dyer. ing of a green jacket and a red skirt. níróng: China. Wool fabric. noir: France. Black. nirya: India. Front pleats of the noisette: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, new shade of dhoti. brown. nisara: India. A warm cadar. nokmal: Korea. Starch. nishijin: Japan. A kind of rich noksaek: Korea. Green. nine-tenths coat brocade. nometas: Lithuania. Married woman’s headdress or veil. See also photospread nishiki: Japan. Silk woven or bro- nón: Vietnam. Conical hat. (Outerwear). caded in colors and gilt. nón lá: Vietnam. Hat made of latania leaves. Dover Publications nishka: India. A necklace of coins. nón lông: Vietnam. Feather hat. 206 nón sat nón sat: Vietnam. Soldier’s helmet. nouveautés: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, poplin none-so-pretty: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United with detached figures, usually of silk. States of America. Narrow linen ribbons or tapes Novado: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, square with a colored design woven in. cut pelisse trimmed with ribbon and deep falls of nonomea: United States of America. Hawaii. Reddish lace. color. novato: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 nono-obi: Japan. A style of obi. C.E.). Wool or silk fabric. nora-gi: Japan. A field worker’s clothes. noyer: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1871, walnut color. norat’a: Korea. Yellow. nozelenn: France. Breton for button. : Bustle (1865–1890 nsa: Ashanti. Camel’s hair and wool cloth. C.E.). Gentlemen’s jacket with nsaduaso: Ghana. Very best kente cloth. box pleats from shoulder to hem nshak: Kuba. Mid-calf length ornamental skirt. and commonly self-belted. Worn nshiing: Zaire. Thread. for sport occasions. ntoa: Ashanti. Waist belt. Norfolk shirt: Bustle (1865–1890 nuamhanair: Ireland. Gaelic word for embroidery. C.E.). United Kingdom. Jacket nubia: Soft, light, scarf or head covering. similar in cut to the Norfolk jacket nudo: Spain. Bow. but with collar and cuffs like a nugi-sage: Japan. Karaori kosode worn with the right shirt. Had front flap pockets and arm out of the sleeve. a self-belt. Always worn buttoned nuihaku: Japan. Kosode decorated with embroidery up. Commonly made in tweeds and metallic foil. This style fell out of favor in the for country wear. early 17th century. norigae: Korea. Hair ornaments. nuikiri: Japan. Satin embroidery stitch used to outline norki: Poland. Mink. broad areas. Norma corsage: Crinoline (1840– nukkadar: India. A small pointed cap. 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. In- nula: India. A raw silk. troduced in 1844, ladies’ evening núm: Vietnam. Button. bodice with loose center front fold numbda: See namda. that was held in place with a gold numda: See namda. pin. nummud: See namda. Norfolk jacket See also photospread Normande cap: Bustle (1865–1890 numna: See namda. (Outerwear). C.E.). In 1871, large white muslin numud: See namda. bow worn on top of head. nunda: See namda. Normandy bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1866, nuno: Japan. Fabric woven of vegetable fibers. lady’s bonnet. nun’s cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in Northampton lace: Charles I and the Commonwealth 1881, fine, thin wool. Previously called mousseline de (1625–1660 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). laine. See also nun’s veiling. United Kingdom. Bobbin lace similar to Flemish lace. nun’s thread: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Made in Norwegian slippers: Nickname for loafers. in Italy and Flanders, thin white thread Norwich crepe: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Silk and used for lace. wool blend fabric similar to bombazine. Manufac- nun’s veiling: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced tured in Norwich. in 1879, thin wool barege. See also nun’s cloth. 2. Norwich paramatta: (1890–1900 C.E.). United Kingdom. Sheer, soft, plain weave fabric, usually of worsted, A paramatta with a worsted weft and a silk warp. silk, or cotton. nos: Ireland. Gaelic word for white. nun’s work: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United King- noshime: Japan. Inner robe worn by male. No charac- dom. Similar to modern embroidery. ters. nuometas: Lithuania. Woman’s headdress or veil. nosine: Lithuania. Handkerchief. nupura: India. An anklet. nosnja: See kostim. nūr-ī-bādlā: India. Dress with decoration. nostle: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). nurki: India. Gold or silver hoop earring. United Kingdom. Band, secured around the leg and nurse’s cape: Three-quarter length navy cape, lined in fastening the meo. Also a band used as a fillet. red, buttoned with brass buttons. Nottingham lace: United Kingdom. Flat lace made in nurse’s cloth: Bleached, plain weave cotton fabric. Nottingham, United Kingdom. nurse’s gingham: Heavy blue and white striped cotton nouet: France. Small linen bag for holding herbs, etc. fabric. nyoro 207 nursing dress: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle nwumu: False kente cloth made from imported silk or (1865–1890 C.E.). Ladies’ dress with a bodice front linen. that was removable through the use of hooks and nyakas szür: Hungary. Literally “necked szür,” szür eyes at the shoulders. Underbodice had pleats or with front and back cut in separate pieces. folds that concealed a small slit to allow the woman nycette: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Ladies’ light to nurse her infant. Used from c1820 to 1850. wrap for the neck. nur-trang: Vietnam. Jewelry. nyeeng: Zaire. Type of mask. nussbraun: Germany. Nut brown. nylon: Man-made yarns that are very strong nut: See nath. and resilient, with a high wet strength. nutria: 1. See grege. 2. Dark brown South American fur nyoro: Rhodesia. Shona word for cicatrization. similar to beaver.

O

ô: Vietnam. Umbrella. obraczka slubna: Poland. Wedding ring. oashyr voynee: Isle of Man. Men’s long, knitted, foot- obradový kroj: Slovakia. Ritual costume. less stockings. obucá: Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia. Shoe. oashyr-slobbagh: See oashyr voynee. obuv: See sapog; strevíc. Oatland village hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790– obuwie: See trzewik. 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1800, oc xà-cù: Vietnam. Nacre. ladies’ day hat with curved brim and dome-shaped occularium: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Eye-slit in crown. Made of straw, twist, or leghorn. Named for the helm. the country house of the Duchess of . ocelot: Italy and France. Fur of large spotted cat, Felix oatmeal cloth: Soft, durable fabric made with a fine pardalis. warp and coarse weft yarns. ocelote: Spain. Ocelot. obair-ghréis: Ireland. Arras; embroidery. ochre: Yellow similar to mineral. obair-gréise: Ireland. Embroidery. ochtendjas: Holland. Housecoat. obair-shnàthaid: Ireland. Needlework; embroidery. ocra: Italy. Ochre. obalenka: Slovakia. Pad or frame around which a ocre: 1. France. Ochre. 2. Portugal. Ochre. woman’s hair is arranged. ocreae rostratae: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 obang-nangja: Korea. Small pouch worn suspended C.E.). United Kingdom. Pointed toed boots. from the sash that served as a pocket. Used the five octagon tie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- directional colors (East, blue; West, white; South, red; dom. Popular from the 1860s on, man’s scarf worn North, black; Center, yellow). with four points above the tie pin and secured with a obi: Japan. Ladies’ broad sash of very heavy silk or satin band around the neck. and embroidered or brocaded. óculas: Portugal. Spectacles. obi hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). odet’: Russia. To clothe or to dress. Introduced in 1804, straw chip hat with high flat odev: See saty. crown and narrow brim. Tied under the chin. odezda: Russia. Clothing. obi makura: Japan. Pad under the obi. odhar: Ireland. Gaelic word for dun colored. obi-age: Japan. A bustle sash. See also obiage. odijelo: See odjeca. obiage: Japan. Silk scarf used to cover the bow pad on odíti: Czechoslovakia. To clothe or to dress. a woman’s back. odjeca: Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia. Clothing. obi-dome: Japan. An obi tie. odjesti: Croatia and Serbia. To clothe or to dress. obijime: Japan. Five foot long cord used to fasten the odonarium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Handker- obi. chief. oblaciti: See odjesti. odonium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Handkerchief. oblec: See ubrac. odziac: See ubrac. oblek: See saty. odzienie: See suknie. oblékati: See odíti. odziez: 1. Poland. Clothing. 2. See suknie. oboro-zome: Japan. Shaded dyeing ranging from white oes: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Small eyelets used in to grayish blue. decorative designs on women’s garments.

209 210 oet’u oet’u: Korea. Overcoat. ‘okanaki: United States of America. Hawaii. . ofer-braedels: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 okara: Ibo. Raffia and cotton cloth. C.E.). United Kingdom. Outer garment, often eccle- okers: See hoggers. siastical. okhaben: Russia. Charles I and the Commonwealth ofer-feng: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). (1625–1660 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Clasp on the shoe. Woman’s summer cloak. oferlaeg: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). ‘oki pahu: United States of America. Hawaii. To bob United Kingdom. Outer garment or cloak. the hair. oferlagu: See oferlaeg. oko: Ibo. Raffia cloth. ofer-slop: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). okolepu‘u: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally United Kingdom. Cloak. “humped buttocks,” a bustle-style dress. ofer-slype: See ofer-slop. okovratnik: Bosnia. See kragna. off-the-horse bun: China. Woman’s hairstyle. okrel: Bulgaria. Back kilted skirt. off-the-peg: Readymade clothing. okulary: Poland. Spectacles. ‘ofu: Samoa. Robe. okulary sloneczne: Poland. Sunglasses. ‘ofuta ‘ele: Samoa. Bathing dress. okumi: Japan. The front overlap of the kimono. ‘ofutino: Samoa. Shirt. okura-nishiki: Japan. A type of nishiki named for the ‘ofuvae: Samoa. Trousers. imperial treasure house. ‘ofuvae pupu‘u: Samoa. Shorts. okuru: Ibibio. Cloth woven by youths from raffia and ogami: Japan. Literally “worship,” embroidery with cotton. converging stitches that resemble praying hands. okyangmok: Korea. Calico. See also mosulrin. oganadi: See ‘okanaki. olann: Ireland. Gaelic word for wool. oggaegori: See syool. Old Navajo Dyes: (1940–1950 C.E.). United States of ogi: Japan. Folding fan. America. Packaged synthetic dyes. ogrlica: 1. Bosnia. Necklace. 2. Croatia and Serbia. Collar. old rose: Soft, dull rose color. ogrtač: Bosnia. Overcoat. Oldenburgh bonnet: Directoire and First Empire ‘ohelohelo: United States of America. Hawaii. Pink. (1790–1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1814, ladies’ large ohi: Japan. Priest’s arm stole. bonnet with wide brim and flat crown. Decorated Ohrring: Germany. Earring. with ostrich feathers and a ribbon tie. Named for the ‘ohule: United States of America. Hawaii. To be bald. Duchess Oldenburgh, a visitor to the Peace celebra- oi dai booi dai: (1900–1910 C.E.). United States of tion of 1814. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a baby carrier oldham: Coarse cloth made in Norfolk. made like a square blanket with four fabric straps olicula: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Ladies’ hooded used to tie the child to the mother’s back. cape. oilcloth: Heavy muslin that is coated on one side with olino: Nigeria. Pleated cloth bound with raffia before oil, clay, and pigment. it is dyed. oiled leather: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Leather oliva: Spain. Olive color. oiled with fish oil in imitation of chamois. Popular olivâtre: France. Olive color. for use in workmen’s breeches. olive: Dark grayed green. oiled silk: Silk fabric that has been waterproofed with olive button: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Long oval oil. silk covered button. oilets: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Eyelets of lac- olive drab: Dull greenish yellow. ing holes. olivenfarbig: Germany. Olive color. : Fabric treated with oil to make it waterproof. olivet: A large button covered in cloth or thread. òir-chrios: Ireland. 1. Studded belt. 2. Gold necklace. olivette: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Olive button oir-ghreus: Ireland. Gaelic word for embroidery, tapes- of Brandenburg. try, or needlework. oliwny: Poland and Portugal. Olive color. oiseau: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Chartreuse yellow. ollaodach: Ireland. Gaelic word for woolen fabric. oisionair: Ireland. Gaelic word for tabard. ollyet: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 ojak norigae: Korea. Accessory with five pendants. C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Wool fabric ojal: Spain. Buttonhole. made in Norwich. ojales: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Loops. ol-ogarenji: Ogiek. A skull cap made from a goat’s ojete: Spain. Eyelet. stomach. okana: Ghana. Gold bracelet worn by a councilor when olojémiti: Greece. Shawl filled with rows of heavy silk on a royal errand. and gold. orange tawny 211

Olympic: (1950–1960 C.E.). Man’s hairstyle. allowed it to collapse so that it òmar: Ireland. Amber. could be carried under the arm ombari: Namibia. Woman’s necklace. or be placed under a seat. ombre: France. To be graduated in tone. opera pump: Ladies’ plain heeled ombrelle: France. Parasol. pump. opera pump Omer mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, opera slipper: Dress slipper. mantle of thin material. Ruffles were bordered with Ophelia: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1850, taffeta velvet ribbon or braid and a heavy fringe. mantelet trimmed with ruches of quilled ribbon omeshi: Japan. A fine silk crepe. and a white blonde fall. 2. In 1857, woman’s cloth omophorion: Worn by officials of the Greek Church, cloak trimmed with velvet galloons and a three-inch strip of white embroidered fabric worn around the fringe. 3. In 1858, woman’s velvet or cloth cloak that neck, crossing the left shoulder with ends hanging was loosely fitted with flowing sleeves. The hood to the knees. was lined with satin. 4. Introduced in 1864, red violet. omote kon’ya: Japan. Shop that specializes in dyeing fabric. opinak: Bulgaria. Rough hide shoes. omslagdoekje: Holland. Fichu. opinci: Romania. Women’s peasant sandals. ondergoed: Holland. Underwear. opinki: Bulgaria. Leather boatlike sandals that are tied onderriem: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Pop- on the foot. ular 1600–1660, a chain. opossum: Italy and France. Long-haired fur with gray- onderzieltje: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. ish hair and gray white underfur. Under-bodice. Opossum: Germany. Opossum. ondina crinoline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Oposum: Spain. Opossum. Kingdom. Introduced in 1860s, a cage crinoline. opperkleed: Holland. Surcoat. ondine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1871, opreg: Romania. Woman’s short back apron. Richly wo- soft and brilliant silk and wool blend fabric. Reintro- ven or embroidered panel with a fringe that reaches duced in 1893, as a corded silk crepon. to the skirt hem. ondule: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1865, : Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). United fabric with surface that appeared to be wavy. Kingdom. Early English needlework of a chain stitch onechte juwelen: Holland. Costume jewelry. and fine split stitch. ông tay áo: Vietnam. Coat sleeve. opus araneum: Handmade bobbin lace. ongebleekte Chinese zijde: Holland. Pongee. opus consutum: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United oni didi: Nigeria. Cloth tied in knots before dyeing. Kingdom. Sections of needlework that were stitched to- oni lilo: Nigeria. Cloth that is folded, twisted, and then gether. Figures were outlined in brown silk or painted. tied before dyeing. opus filatorium: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United onigegemerin: Yoruba four-sided crown. Kingdom. Thread embroidery on network. oniko: Nigeria. Raffia-tied adire. opus pectineum: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United onion white brown: China. Yuan dynasty. Shade of brown. Kingdom. Woven work imitating embroidery. onrijp: See groen. opus phrygium: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United onuga: Ibo. Cloth made from narrow indigo bands. Kingdom. Gold-outlined embroidery. onyx: Semi-precious stone. opus plumarium: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United oogschaduw: Holland. Eye shadow. Kingdom. Feather-stitch embroidery. oogscherm: Holland. Eyeshade. opus pulvinarium: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). United ooze calf: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, soft, dull Kingdom. Cross-stitch embroidery. black leather. ‘opu‘u kaimana: United States of America. Hawaii. A opal: Precious stone with no one characteristic color. cut diamond. opala: Portugal. Fine muslin. orange-butter: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– opanky: Balkans. Leather sandal with a wide sole that 1660 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Pomade. lashed to the foot and ankle with thongs. or: France. Gold. opas: Bulgaria. Waistband. or nué: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan opasa: India. Woman’s hairstyle with a loose chignon (1550–1625 C.E.). A method of couching that used on the top of the head. colored silks to create a shaded pattern on gold : Fancy loose cloak or wrap worn when at- thread. tending the opera or other formal evening events. or trect: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Drawn gold. opera glove: Long glove, sometimes thumbless. orange: Reddish yellow. opera hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Gentlemen’s tall orange tawny: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Orangey silk top hat that collapsed. It had an internal spring that brown. 212 orangegelb

orangegelb: Germany. Orange color. ormesine: India. Armozeen. oranje: Holland. Orange color. ormuzine: Persia. Silk fabric. orarion: Ecclesiastical stole. ornamento de gioielli: See spillo da petto. orarium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Large handker- oro de orilla: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Edg- chief used by men. ing gold. orbace: Italy. Sardinian dyed wool fabric used for fezes. oro hilado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Spun òr-bhann: Ireland. Gold lace. gold. òrbhuidhe: Ireland. Yellow. orphelian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Claret color. orbiculi: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Decorative mo- orphreys: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Bands of em- tifs at base of clavi. broidery on the cope and chasuble. orbis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Wire frame that orrice: (17th century). United States of America. Lace or supported the front of women’s elaborate hairstyles. gimp trim with a gold and silver thread. orchell: Ireland. Purple dye. orris: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Georgian orchid: Blue red. (1750–1790 C.E.). Elaborate gold or silver lace. Origi- or-choilear: Ireland. Gaelic word for golden collar. nally made in Arras, France. ordinaria: See puntada recta. orso: Italy. Bear fur. ordnasc: Ireland. Gaelic word for thumb ring. ortie: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, bluish gray. orecchino: Italy. Earring. orzechowy: Poland. Nut brown. oreille d’ours: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Warm brown. ósain: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). oreilles de chien: Directoire and First Empire (1790– Ireland. Trews. 2. Scotland. Trews. 1815 C.E.). France. Man’s very long side-locks. osanachd: Ireland. Gaelic word for hosiery. orel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). osatiti: See odíti. United Kingdom. Secular term for a veil. Osbaldiston tie: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Popular orenjibich’ui: Korea. Orange colored. from 1830s through 1840s, man’s necktie tied with orgagis: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Rough Indian barrel-shaped knot. cotton cloth. osbro: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 organdi: France and Spain. Organdy. C.E.). Worsted fustian. Organdin: Germany. Organdy. oseille cuite: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1877, yellowish organdy: Very fine, transparent cotton with a crisp fin- green. ish. osito lavador: Spain. Raccoon. organpipe folds: Even, deep folds. osnabrug: See . : 1. Silk or synthetic fabric similar to organdy. 2. osnaburg: Plain, rough flax or cotton fabric. Named for Germany and Italy. Organdy. its place of manufacture, Osnaburg, Germany. orhna: India. Two yards long and one and a half yards osnaburgo: Spain. Osnaburg. wide scarf of voile, silk, or other light fabric. Elabo- oso: Spain. Bear. rately embroidered. osode: See hirosode. ori: Japan. Weaving. osprey: Certain feathers, not osprey, used for hats. oriellettes: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Move- ossenbrigs: See osnaburg. able steel plates that covered the ears on a helmet. ostaigrette: Imitation aigret. May have been hinged. ot: Korea. Clothes; garment. oriental crepe: Handwoven crepe from China or Japan. otcharak: Korea. Skirt; train. oriental embroidery: Various embroidery done in otgam: See ch’on. Asian countries. otkam: Korea. Cloth. oriental lace: Lace with design woven through net. otomana: Spain. Ottoman. oriental satin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in otomana imperial: Spain. Imperial ottoman. 1869, wool or wool and silk blend fabric. otter: Dark brown fur of otter (Lutra lutra). orikogbofo: Yoruba crown. ottoman: Plain heavy fabric with crosswise ribs. orla: See aba. ottoman cord: Plain, corded silk fabric. orle: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Wreath or chaplet ottoman plush: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in worn around the helmet of a knight. 1882, silk fabric with plush figures on a corded ground. orleans: Plain weave fabric with a cotton warp and ottoman rep: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in worsted weft. 1882, repped satin. Orleans brown: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Shade of ottoman rib: Ribbed fabric where warp forms rib. brown. ottoman silk: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in orlo: Italy. Hem. 1882, any silk with a horizontal cord. ozura 213 ottoman velvet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in Very popular with male college students. See also 1869, velvet with a colored brocade. Reintroduced in . 1879, as a rich uncut velvet. Oxford blue: Navy blue. otu: India. Wool; woof. Oxford chambray: Oxford cloth with a colored warp oubosyuuju: See totsin. and a white weft. ouch: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic Oxford cloth: Plain or basket weave, cotton shirting fab- (1350–1450 C.E.). Jeweled pin or buckle. ric with two fine warps and heavy weft years. ouderwetse vrouwenmuts: Holland. Mob cap. Oxford gillies: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- ouhe: China. Pale pinkish purple. dom. Man’s sports shoe that laced and then the laces ourle: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic were tied around the ankle. (1350–1450 C.E.). Fur border. Oxford gloves: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles ourlet-bord: France. Hem. I and the Commonwealth ousè: China. Pale pinkish gray. (1625–1660 C.E.). United King- out-coat: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s overcoat. dom. Gloves scented with the outing flannel: See flannelette. Earl of Oxford’s perfume. outnal thread: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- Oxford gray: Any fabric of black than (1550–1625 C.E.). Flemish flax thread. and white mixed yarns, woven ouvrage a l’aiguille: France. Needlework. or knitted. oval beaver hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Oxford jacket: Crinoline (1840– Kingdom. Man’s oval hat made of beaver. 1865 C.E.). A woman’s or over-all: See balandrana. young boy’s lightly fitted Overall: Germany. Overalls. jacket with an Eton or Peter Oxford jacket overalls: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Pan collar. See also photospread Men’s loose white cord or leather trousers. Worn for Oxford shirting: Variety of coarse (Outerwear). riding. weaves in mercerized cotton. overcoat: See greatcoat. In white, colors, or stripes. overgaiter: Spat. Oxford tie: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United King- overhemb: Holland. Shirt. dom. Man’s narrow, straight tie. overschoen: Holland. Galosh. oxide: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, dark slate overseas blue: Grayed light navy worn by Air Force color. in World War II. Oxonian boots: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United overseas cap: United States of Kingdom. Popular in 1830s and 1840s, man’s short America. Small military cap worn boot with a wedge cut from the top to assist in put- by soldiers in World War I. ting them on. overslop: Byzantine and Roman- Oxonian jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- esque (400–1200 C.E.) to Late dom. Popular in 1850s and 1860s, man’s oxford coat in Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Gown, bright blue with two buttons and many pockets. stole, cassock, or surplice. Term in : Hebrew. Fringe. use from 950 to 1400. oya isi: Turkey. Airy needlework lace. owa sibi: Ekine. A dance head- oyah: Turkey. . piece. oyam: See oyuan. overseas cap ‘owaynet al-sus: Palestine. Liter- oyokoman: Ashanti. Cloth for those of the royal family. See also photospread ally “chick’s eye,” zigzag stitch oyster: Light grayish white color with a blue tint. (Headwear). used for applique. oyuan: Nigeria. Mushroom-shaped lumbar ornament. ‘owili: United States of America. Ozelot: Germany. Ocelot. Hawaii. Bolt of cloth. ozenbridge: See osnaburg. Oxford and Cambridge mixture: Bustle (1865–1890 ozerel’e: Russia. Necklace. C.E.). Introduced in 1885, two shades of iron gray. ozherelok: Russia. Necklace. Oxford bags: (1920–1930 C.E.). United Kingdom. Ex- oznaburg: See osnaburg. tremely loose knickers worn by gentlemen for golf. ozura: Japan. Large vine-like scroll pattern.

P

pà: China. Handkerchief. with a fly front. It had no waist seam, but was fitted pa‘a kama‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Pair of by a side seam to the pocket. Reintroduced in 1893 as shoes. the New Paletot. pa‘a lole: United States of America. Hawaii. Suit of clothes. padigunthima: India. A type of boot. pa‘a mua: United States of America. Hawaii. Ready- padiniansanam: India. A night garment. made, as clothes. padisoy: See . paakee: Australia. Maori general term for rain capes. padom: Medes. Hood that surrounded the face and paakee nui: Australia. Maori full length cape. concealed the chin. paakee tikumu: Australia. Maori cape decorated with pa-ðo-suv: Vietnam. Overcoat. skin of tikumu (Celmisia spectabilis). padou: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- paaneter: India. A red silk piece of fabric with silver gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Silk ribbon made in Padua, leaf borders. Italy. paaraerae: Australia. Maori sandal with sole of plaited paduasoy: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Crinoline flax. (1840–1865 C.E.). Corded, strong silk fabric, first paardestaart: Holland. Ponytail. made in Padua, Italy. See also peau de soie. paarengarenga: Australia. Maori lace-up leggings. : India. A wooden sandal. paars: Holland. Purple. padukakrt: India. A peddler. pabagu: Nigeria. A Tiv man’s ceremonial coat. padura: India. A white stuff. paboudj: Hebrew’s slipper shoes. padusoy: See paduasoy. pabuç: Turkey. Shoe. pa‘eke: United States of America. Hawaii. Pocket. pac: Moccasin. paekkum: Korea. Platinum. pachedī: India. Man’s scarf. paenang: Korea. Knapsack. packcloth: Heavy, coarse cotton fabric. paencha: India. Pants leg. packing white: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United p’aench’u: See paji. Kingdom. Wool fabric. : Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Hooded cape of pacotilla: Ecuador. Low quality shawl. a waterproofed leather or wool. pactole: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1884, golden paepaeroa: New Zealand. Maori term for a large cloak. brown. pafte: Yugoslavia. Metal waist clasp and coin decoration. pād: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). páfti: Bulgaria and Greece. Large silver buckle. United Kingdom. Outer garment, probably shaped pag: See pagri. like a tunic. See also rocc. pāg: India. Loosely folded turban. See also pecā. pada: India. Sandals. pagarakhā: India. Leather shoes embroidered with gold pada-bandhati: India. Anklets. or silver or silver thread. They are hooked at the toe. padamsuka: India. A fine-gauze silk. pagari: See pugaree. padapatra: India. A garter-like ornament for the thigh. pagdī: See pagri. paddles: See wheat ears. page boy bob: Chin-length hair worn straight with only paddock coat: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United the bottom curled under. Kingdom. Man’s single-or double-breasted overcoat paghadi: India. A turban.

215 216 pagi-sore

pagi-sore: Indonesia. Literally “morning-evening,” worn drawn back at the sides to expose the striped used to refer to batik divided into two different pat- underskirt. terns. paisin: Thailand. Sarong-like skirt. pagliaccetto: Italy. Rompers. paisley: Intricate pattern involving abstract, curving paglietta: Italy. Boater. shapes. pagne: Loincloth or skirt worn in tropical countries. paisley shawl: Shawl woven in one piece, five or six pagoda parasol: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 feet square. C.E.) to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Parasol that, paison: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Persian trousers. when opened, was shaped like a pagoda. pa‘iua: United States of America. Hawaii. Fine, white pagoda sleeve: Crinoline (1840– tapa. 1865 C.E.). Funnel-shaped sleeve, pajama: (1930–1940 C.E. to present). From the Hindu- narrow at the armseye and full at stani word epai-jama, shirt and trouser combination. the bottom. By 1857, some had a Worn for day or evening, formally or informally, at slit in front from cuff to armseye. home and in public. Trouser legs were cut very full, By 1859, called the funnel sleeve. suggesting skirts in their fullness. pagoda toque: Small, brimless hat pajama check: Barred nainsook used for men’s under- similar in shape to an Oriental wear. tower. pajani: India. A sari dyed in blue, yellow, black, green, pagonazzo: See pavonazzo. and red. pagote: See pagri. paji: Korea. Trouser part of the national costume. pagoda sleeve pāgrā: See pāg. pakama: United Kingdom. Cotton fabric made for ex- pagri: India. Long silk or cotton turban, 10 to 50 yards port. long, worn by Hindu men. pakan: Borneo. Woof in weaving or plaiting. pag-sankla: India. Loose-fitting layers of chain worn at pakana: United States of America. Hawaii. Waist; shirt- the ankle. waist; blouse. paheran: See kudtā; kurta. pakiri mbola: Sumba. A skirt trimmed with shells and pah-jungobein: Cambodia and Thailand. A hip wrap. beads. pah-poosh: Persia. Ladies’ high-heeled velvet slippers. pakjwiu san: See usan. Often embroidered in gold and studded with jewels. paklari: India. A five stringed necklace. pahu papale: United States of America. Hawaii. Hat- paklinnen: Holland. Sacking. box. pala ‘ehu: United States of America. Hawaii. Reddish pahuñchi: India. Barrel-shaped armlet. yellow. paiafzar: India. Shoes. pala‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Silky, brown paida: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic (1350– tapa. 1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Generic term for coat. palaka aloha: United States of America. Hawaii. Aloha paidirean: Ireland. Gaelic word for rosary or necklace; shirt. bracelet; or chaplet. palalei: United States of America. Hawaii. Uncut tapa paiki pa‘alima: United States of America. Hawaii. fringe. Handbag. palampore: See palempore. paillasson: France. Straw hat. palandrano: Italy. Gabardine. paille: France. Straw. palang posh: See palempore. paille de riz: France. Rice straw. pălărie: Romania. Hat. paille d’italie: France. Italian straw. palatine: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). paillette: France. Small, scalelike glittering disks; sequins. Small fur or swansdown stole reaching below the paimak: A variety of gold or silver lace. waist. painetta: Spain. Traditional high hair comb. palatine royal: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- painntin: Ireland. Gaelic word for patten. dom. Introduced in 1851, fur tippet with quilted painter’s pants: (1970–1979 C.E.). Ecru or white over- hood. alls. palazzo pajamas: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of pa‘ipa‘inaha: United States of America. Hawaii. Tapa America. Woman’s pants cut as full as evening skirts. cloak worn like a cape. pale: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance pairan: See kurta. (1450–1550 C.E.). Vertical stripe or series of stripes. pàirt-dhathach: Ireland. Particolored. 2. United States of America. Hawaii. Garment lining. pais-a-gwn bach: Wales. Gown with a snugly fitted pale hanai: United States of America. Hawaii. Infant’s bodice and a skirt split in front to the waist. Skirt is bib. paludamentum 217 pale kila: United States of America. Hawaii. Literally draped around the body. Women’s version of the “steel shield,” armor. pallium. 2. India. A panel of fabric. pale lilac brown: China. Yuan dynasty. Shade of brown. pallatine: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early Geor- pale maka: United States of America. Hawaii. Veil that gian (1700–1750 C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s conceals the face, as worn by Arab women. sable shoulder wrap. pale pakaukau ‘aila: United States of America. Hawaii. pallav: 1. India. The decorated end of a sari. 2. Bolivia. Oilcloth. Generic term for a woven pattern. pale papale: United States of America. Hawaii. Hat lining. pallets: See palettes. pale wawae: United States of America. Hawaii. House pallettes: See palettes. slipper. palliolum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Woman’s veil, palelei: United States of America. Hawaii. Tapa worn sometimes held in place with a wreath. as a head covering. pallium: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Outdoor gar- palema‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Under- ment cut as a long square or rectangle of wool, then drawers. draped and fastened at the shoulder or neck with a palempore: India. Chintz bed cover. fibula. Considered signature garment of the scholar palepai: Indonesia (Sumatra). Long ceremonial textiles. and philosopher. Female version was the . 2. Ec- palestine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1883, clesiastical dress. In sixth century, worn by the pope dark blue violet. over the left shoulder. In eighth century, V-shaped palet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Small skull-cap of band worn over the chest over the other garments. In cuir-bouilli or steel. 10th century, became round-necked scarf with ends paletó: Portugal and Spain. Jacket. that hung down front and back. Today, woven band paletoque: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Paltock. of white lamb’s wool worn by Catholic archbishops paletot: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Man’s over the chasuble. Decorated with four crosses. short greatcoat with no side pleats or back vent. 2. pallustache: Greek. Cretan thigh-length shenti. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Ladies’ stiffly pleated Palm Beach: Trade name for lightweight suiting made three-quarter-length cloak with a short overcape. with cotton warp and mohair filling. 3. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Pleated knee-length, palmas: Ecuador. Palm tree–shaped silver earrings. cape-like garment for women. 4. Crinoline (1840– Palmerston wrapper: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United 1865 C.E.). Man’s yachting jacket. Kingdom. Popular 1853–1855, man’s single-breasted paletot-cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular in full overcoat with wrapped front. It had wide, cuf- 1850s, short hip-length cloak with armhole slits. fless sleeves, a wide collar and lapel, and side flap paletot-mantle: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in pockets. Named after a popular politician. 1867, ladies’ three-quarter-length caped cloak with palmilha: Portugal. Sole of a shoe. hanging sleeve. p’almok sigye: Korea. Wristwatch. paletot-redingote: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Palmyra broché: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1878, fine Kingdom. Introduced in 1867, ladies’ fitted long coat wool fabric, closely ribbed. cut without a waist seam. It had revers and buttoned palmyrene: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in down the front. They sometimes had capes. 1827, silk-embroidered textile similar to poplin. paletot-sac: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Popular palmyrienne: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in early part of the period, a man’s short, straight in 1831, wool and silk fabric similar to mousselaine single- or double-breasted paletot with a hood in- de soie. stead of a collar. palo de lione: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Liter- palettes: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Steel or cuir- ally, “skin of lion,” yellow color similar to a lionskin. bouilli protection for the armpits. palomita: Spain. Bow tie. palhaço: See calção. palpulana: India. Lye. paliacate: Mexico. Head kerchief. palto: Russia. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, an palisade: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Muslin cap officer’s greatcoat. worn over the fontange frame in the mornings. The paltock: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Short jacket. term also referred to the wire frame itself. Precursor of the pourpoint. palisandre: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Purple brown. paludamentum: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Mili- palito: Guatemala. Back-strap loom. tary mantle worn by the general in command or the p’aljji: Korea. Bracelet. emperor on the field. Cut like a chlamys, in the shape pall: 1. Obsolete for rich fabric or garment. 2. See cloke. of a semicircle. 2. Byzantine (400–1200 C.E.). The palla: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Roman equiva- imperial mantle, a half circle of richly embroidered lent of the Greek himation, made of wool, worn purple velvet. 218 palulu maka

palulu maka: United States of America. Hawaii. Eye- Panama hat: (20th century). Originally made of exotic shade. leaves, they were later made in poplar wood (latanier) pamela: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). and today are made of a fine straw from Ecuador or United Kingdom. Popular 1800–1815 C.E., woman’s Colombia. In shape, they have a rounded crown. small bonnet that tied with large ribbons under the panaúla: Greece. Apron. chin. 2. Spain. Boater. panba: Iran. Cotton. Pamela bonnet: 1. Crinoline pancake bag: Flat circular handbag. (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- pancake beret: Broad flat beret. dom. Popular 1845–1855, wom- pancake sleeves: See beret sleeve. an’s small straw bonnet with a pancauna: India. A five-colored silk. small lace frill at the nape of the pancavarnapadi: India. A five-colored silk stuff. neck. Brim and the crown were pance: See dhoti. made in one piece. Trimmed with pañchaphalaka: India. Necklace of five flat gems. ribbons and often with flowers. pandin: Borneo. Buckle. Named after the heroine of Rich- pandjesjas: Holland. Tailcoat. ardson’s novel. 2. Bustle (1865– pandva: India. An unbleached or dyed cotton or silken 1890 C.E.). Similar to the Pamela stuff. bonnet of the Crinoline period, pane: India. Worn by young girls, a length of fabric Pamela bonnet (Crinoline period) but with a more pointed brim and worn wrapped around the body. See also photospread longer lace frill. It was commonly panel skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United (Headwear). decorated with wide ribbons and Kingdom. Woman’s double day skirt with an over- heavy floral sprays. skirt that was two inches shorter than the underskirt : Crinoline (1840–1865 and open on the left side showing a decorative panel C.E.). United Kingdom. Intro- of velvet. duced in 1845, small gypsy hat paneter: India. Special red and -dyed wedding of straw. sari. Pamico: Trade name for cotton pang’ adari norigae: Korea. Pendant in the shape of a plain weave fabric in solid colors. treadmill (symbol of strong legs). pampa: Bolivia. In a textile, the panghyang: See hyangsu. monochrome space between panier a coudes: See panniers. stripes or patterned bands. paniers a bourelets: See panniers. pampanilla: Peru. Tribal wom- paniers anglais: See panniers. an’s loincloth. panjam: Cotton fabric. pampilion: Renaissance (1450– panjóva: See plakhta. 1550 C.E.). Italy. Type of felt or a panne: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Pamela bonnet black fur from Navarre. Deep piled velvet used mostly for upholstery. Silk (Bustle period) pamsukula: Thailand. Buddhist panne from Lyons was much sought after. 2. Gay Dover Publications monk’s robes made from dis- Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Introduced in 1899, silk carded fabric. fabric between velvet and satin. 3. Finish for velvet pamuk: Croatia and Serbia. Cotton. or satin created by flattening the fabric. pamutos vászon: Hungary. Cotton and linen blend panne satin: Satin treated by heat and pressure. fabric. panne velvet: Velvet similar to mirror velvet. pana: Ecuador, Guatemala, and Spain. Corduroy; velvet. panni diasperati: See diasper. pana con cervaduras muy finas: Spain. Pin corduroy. panni imperiales: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Liter- panache: France. 1. Plume or bunch of feathers worn ally “imperial fabrics.” erect in a headdress. 2. Bunch of tassels or ribbons. pannicelli: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Linen panache blanc: France. White plume. cloths worn by women over the head and/or shoul- panache de coque: France. Plume of rooster feathers. ders. panaena: Australia. Maori sandal with toe protection. pannier crinoline: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United panaeva: Russia. Worn under the ; long wool Kingdom. Popular in 1870s, combination cage crino- skirt. line and bustle. panama canvas: Heavy, colored basket weave, cotton pannier dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- fabric used for embroidery. dom. Introduced in 1868, woman’s double skirted panama cloth: Millinery fabric whose texture suggests day dress with the upper skirt gathered up in the Panama hats. back and sides and a trained underskirt. pantoffel 219

panniers: Early Georgian (1700– pantalone: Bosnia. Trousers. 1750 C.E.). First appearing around pantalones: Spain. Trousers. 1718 and in fashion until 1800, pantalones bermuda: Spain. . skirts stretched over metal hoops. pantalones cerrados por debajo de la rodilla: Spain. Initially round and called encou- Knickers. ple or en gueridon. Later were pantalones cortos: 1. Ecuador. A man’s short, knee- oval, and called paniers a coudes. length pants. 2. Spain. Shorts. Top hoop was referred to as the pantalones de baño: Spain. Bathing trunks. panniers See also photospread traquenard. Panniers with a thick pantalones de equitación: Spain. Jodhpurs. (Undergarments). roll at the bottom edge were called pantalones de gimnasia: Spain. . paniers a bourelets. Panniers made pantalones de golf: Spain. Knickerbockers. with eight hoops were called paniers anglais. By 1750, pantalones largos hasta media pantorrillas: Spain. the one-piece pannier was replaced by a two piece, . with one section over each hip, called jansenistes. pantalones rajados: Guatemala. Man’s heavy woolen panno: Italy. Felt cloth. trousers of black, blue, or brown. They are worn over panno e pannino: Italy. Woolen cloth. cotton under-trousers. pannus: See textum. pantalones sueltos: Spain. Slacks. pannus sine grano: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). pantalones tejanos: Spain. . Ireland. Undressed English wool fabric that was pantalones : See pantalones tejanos. dressed in Ireland. pantaloni: 1. See abito da pantalone. 2. Romania and Pannuscorium: Trade name for leather cloth. Russia. Trousers. pano: 1. Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Ankle-length trans- pantaloni alla zuava: Italy. Knickerbockers. parent overskirt worn by both genders. 2. Portugal. pantaloni corti: Italy. Shorts. Fabric. pantalons à pont: France. Directoire and First Empire paño: 1. Ecuador and Guatemala. Plain-weave wool (1790–1815 C.E.). Trousers that opened in front with fabric. 2. Spain. Cloth. panel buttoned to vest with three buttons. paño berbi: Peru. Uncombed wool fabric. pantaloon trousers: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United paño de brunete: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Kingdom. Variation of the pantaloon that was loose Cheap black cloth. from the calf down. Did not have side slits. paño de la tierra: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. pantaloons: 1. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Petticoat Local cloth. breeches. 2. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 paño tuntido: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. C.E.). Popular from 1790 to 1850, initially snug fit- Sheared cloth. ting tights that ended just below the calf. After 1817, pañolones: Peru. Blankets worn as shawls. reached to the ankles and had short side slits, and Panovraki: Greece. Man’s long under-trousers. were strapped under the foot. 3. Romantic (1815– panseron: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Peas- 1840 C.E.). Another name for the pantalette. cod belly. pantaplis: See šliuré. panses: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). France. Peascod- panteen collar: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- belly. dom. Popular in 1880s, high collar worn with wom- pansid slops: See slops. en’s jackets. pansiere: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Armor worn to pantera: Italy and Spain. Panther. protect the lower front of the body. panther: Fur from the Felix pardus, a leopard with a rare pansomae: Korea. Half-length sleeve. form of melanism. pansomae syossu: Korea. Short-sleeved shirt. Panther: Germany. Panther. pansy: See pensée. panthère: France. Panther. p’anta: Bolivia. Headcloth. panti: Bolivia. A wine or deep red color. pantadoe: See pintado. panties: Woman’s short undergarment with practically : Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C. E.) no leg portion. to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Worn from ca. 1812 pa ntile: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 to 1840s, woman’s undergarment with long straight C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from 1640s to 1665, legged white drawers reaching almost to the ankle. another name for the sugarloaf hat. Trimmed with lace or decorative tucks. Could be pántlikaskökö: Hungary. Apron trimmed with flow- seen reaching below the skirt until c.1850. ered ribbon. pantalon: France. Trousers; slacks. pantofel: 1. Czechoslovakia. Slipper. 2. Poland. Slipper. pantalon de travial: France. Overalls. pantoffel: Holland. Slipper. 220 Pantoffel

Pantoffel: Germany. Slipper. papale ‘o‘oma: United States of America. Hawaii. Liter- pantofle: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Charles I ally “flared hat,” bonnet; sunbonnet. and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Mule or papale waiokila: United States of America. Hawaii. slipper overshoe with a wood or cork sole, worn to Panama hat. protect the shoe. papalu: United States of America. Hawaii. Apron. pantofola: Italy. Slipper. papanaky: 1. Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Woman’s head- pantoufle: France. Slipper. pad. 2. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Head pad em- pantouflenn: See arc’henad-kambr. broidered with gold and worn high on head. pantserhandschoen: Holland. Gauntlet. papari: Australia. Maori sandal and legging combina- pantuflas: Spain. Slippers. tion of green flax, stuffed with moss. pantuflo: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Slipper. pápçes: Greece. Side opening of a dress. panty corselette: (1960–1969 C.E.). Full body corselette papeline: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Poplin. with under crotch snaps. paper cambric: Thin, narrow cambric, glazed and stiff- pañu sumbriru: Ecuador. Small fedora. ened. pañuelo: 1. Philippine Islands. Square scarf folded in a paper muslin: Tin, narrow muslin. triangle and worn as a collar or neck ruffle. 2. Spain. paper taffeta: Crisp, lightweight taffeta. Handkerchief. 3. Ecuador. Shawl. papillote comb: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced pañuelo para el cuello: Spain. Cravat. in 1828, decorative tortoiseshell three- to four-inch panujil: Korea. Needlework. hair comb. panul: Korea. Needle. papillotes: Early Georgian (1700–1750). Paper hair curlers. panung: Thailand. Long wide strip of fabric worn papoon: United Kingdom. Cotton fabric made for ex- shaped into a loincloth or skirt by both genders. port. panungh: See panung. papuc: Romania. Slipper. pănură: See stofă. papuca: Croatia and Serbia. Slipper. panutzutzu ukufachallina: Ecuador. Woman’s embroi- papuča: Bosnia. Slipper. dered shawl worn for fiestas. papute: Romania. Shoes. Panzer: See Brustharnisch. paquebot capote: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Intro- panzo de burro: See zhutu. duced in 1830s, bibi with brim trimmed with ribbons páo: China. Gown. and lace. paon velvet: Velvet with a thick pile. Pile is pressed in parachute bag: Pouch style handbag. one direction. parachute hat: See balloon hat. paonazzo: See pavonazzo. parachute fabric: Lightweight, plain weave fabric of pàopàosha: China. Seersucker. silk, cotton, nylon, or rayon. paoxié: China. Running shoes. paradise feather: Plume from bird of paradise. páozi: China. Gown. paragaudion: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 papa: Samoa. Brassiere. C.E.). Gold embroidered band presented by the Byz- papa ‘aiana: United States of America. Hawaii. antine emperor to vassal sovereigns. board. paragod: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s bor- papaha: Russia. Fur cap. dered garment. : Russia. Tall Caucasian hat. paragon: 1. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Fabric similar papaki: See rapaki. to camlet. 2. Tightly woven fabric of wool or silk. papale: United States of America. Hawaii. Generic term paraguas: Spain. Umbrella. for hat. Paraguay lace: Spider-web style lace in wheel designs. papale ali‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Crown. paragunda: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Bordered gar- papale hainika: United States of America. Hawaii. ment. Miter. parakiri: New Zealand. Maori term for a large cloak. papale ‘ie: United States of America. Hawaii. Hat made paramani: Italy. Cuffs. by sewing a long plaited strip into a hat. paramatta: Lightweight fabric similar to bombazine or papale kahuna: United States of America. Hawaii. Mi- twill. ter; priestly hat. parament: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Ornamen- papale kapu: United States of America. Hawaii. Cap. tal cuffs. papale la‘a: United States of America. Hawaii. Holy paramentos sacerdotais: Portugal. Clerical vestments. crown or head covering. paran: India. The color leaf green. papale mu‘ou‘ou: United States of America. Hawaii. paranchah: Uzbekistan. Close-meshed horsehair veil Literally “blunt hat,” poke bonnet. worn by women over the age of ten. parure cornouailles 221 p’arang: Korea. Blue; green. Paris embroidery: White cord embroidery on pique. paraplu: Holland. Umbrella. Paris hat: Silk hat. parapluie: 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Folding Parisian satin: (1900–1910 C.E.). Extremely soft satin rain umbrella. 2. France. Umbrella. fabric. parasisol: Linen-weave straw. Paris-Pekin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, striped parasol: Small umbrella, usually not waterproof, car- fancy fabric. ried by women for effect. parivesa: India. Decorative waistband. párasol: Portugal. Parasol. parka: Hooded jacket, usually with zipper in front. parasol à canne: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. parkala: India. Kind of spangled robe set with pieces Parasol that doubled as a cane. of glass. parasol skirt: Multi-gore skirt. parkesine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Invented in 1856, parasole: Italy. Parasol. but only in general use after 1862, a plastic made parasolka: Poland. Umbrella. from pyroxyline. parasol-whip: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular in Parma violet: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In 1827, a 1840s, parasol mounted halfway up the driving new color. 2. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1896, whip. Lost favor in 1870s. a pale shade of heliotrope. paravalia: India. A coral colored stuff. parmnaram: India. Shawl. parawai: New Zealand. Maori term for a large cloak. parniyan: India. A type of silk. parchment: Pale tan. parnoe: Russia. Lace designs worked onto net or tulle. parchment calves: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). parochka: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Russia. Woman’s Parchment shapes worn inside the breeches to im- suit consisting of a skirt and blouse made of the same prove the look of the leg. fabric. parchment lace: Raised design lace made with parch- parricides: See Vatermörder. ment strips (cartisane). parrock: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance parchmentier: (19th century). United Kingdom. Thin (1450–1550 C.E.). Man’s loose cloak with armseyes. wool fabric made in Norwich. parrot green: Medium yellowish green. pardessus: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Generic term for parrucca: Italy. Periwig. any outer garment of knee or three-quarter length. parson’s hat: Clerical felt hat with low crown and wide pardessus redingote: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- brim. duced in 1850s, French term for the frock coat. part: Poland. Coarse hempen cloth. pardillo: 1. Peru. Coarse, dun-colored wool fabric. 2. part lace: Any bobbin lace in which the sections are Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Grayish brown. made separately and then joined. pardo: 1. India. Curtain. 2. Portugal and Spain. Brown. párta: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Austro-Hungarian pardo amarillento: Spain. Russet. Empire. Woman’s cap of tinsel adorned with metal pardo opaco: Spain. Drab color. plates and disks that hung from it by ribbons or leather pardo rojizo: Spain. Rust color. strips. Young women decorated it with pearls and parduzco: Spain. Drab color. enameled agrafes. Married women wore it covered pare: Australia. Maori headband or chaplet. in flat metal plates that were decorated with pearls. 2. parel: Holland. Pearl. Hungary. Girl’s wreath of pearls or artificial flowers. parements: See facings. particolored: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Garment parements d’aube: See facings. made of two or more different fabrics. parements interrompus: See facings. partidor de crencha: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). parengarenga: New Zealand. Maori. Leggings made Spain. Hair parter. of flax, woven in a wide piece and then laced on the : Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. body. Collared and ruffled covering for the neck and shoul- : See pareu. ders. Women’s were made in linen; men’s of richer pareu: Rectangular cotton cloth worn as a skirt or loin- fabric and ornamented. cloth. parure: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). parevau pata: India. A pigeon gray silk fabric. France. Matched set of jewelry, including a necklace, parfait-contentement: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). bracelet, earrings, pin etc. Grand parure includes a France. Bow that covered the pin at the neck. headpiece. Demi-parure includes everything except pari muka: Maori. Bodice of flax fiber. the headpiece. paridhana: See dhoti. parure cornouailles: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1870, parihasta: India. Bracelet. velvet collar with bow, velvet band for hair, and vel- parikara: India. A tight waistband. vet bodice bow. Embroidered with beads. 222 paryanka paryanka: India. See paryastika. pataniya sacopa: India. An embroidered silk or velvet paryastaka: See rasana. of Patan origin. paryastika: India. A kamarband. pata-pallavah: India. A bordered silk fabric. pas: Poland. Belt. patatúka: Greece. Wide, black overcoat with long, nar- pás: Czechoslovakia. Belt. row sleeves. pasa montañas: Spain. Stocking cap. patch dye: Dye process where one or more dyes are pāsābandhi kediyū: India. A short coat-like angarakha added to the fabric in an uneven or patchy manner. with strings for closures. patch pocket: (20th century). Pocket sewn on the out- pāsābandi kediyoo: See pāsābandhi kediyū. side of a garment. pasamanos: Ecuador and Guatemala. Trim; edging. patch veil: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Veil with pashm: See cashmere. large velvet wafers. : See cashmere. patelet: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Padded vest pasoúmia: Greece. Sandal. worn under armor. pass: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration (1660– patent kid: Kid leather finished with a transparent 1700 C.E.). Front of a hat. lacquer. passacaille: See passecaille. patent lace: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 passagers: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– C.E.). United Kingdom. Machine made lace. 1660 C.E.). Curled lock worn near the temple. patent leather: Any leather with a varnished finish. passamontagna: Italy. Balaclava. patent leather boots: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United passanastro: Italy. Trim insertion. Kingdom. Worn from 1870s, men’s ankle high button passe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1864, boots of patent leather uppers. group of flowers or trim under the brim of a bonnet. patent net: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 passecaille: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Ribbon on C.E.). Knitted net made on the point net machine. which the muff was hung. Name came from a fash- patentni zatvarač: See rajferšlus. ionable dance, the passacaglia. paternostri: Italy. Thick beads. passe-filon: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. pateshehon: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew Fringe of hair worn across the forehead or a braid man’s breeches. kept in place at the temples by a circlet. patka: India. 1. A girdle made from a band of cloth passemayne lace: France. A term referring to both braid worn wrapped around the body many times. It may and early bobbin lace. be embroidered or brocaded. 2. A woman’s decora- passemente: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Braid of tive panel of cloth worn at the waist over the anteriya. gold, silver, or other colors. patna: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 passementerie: Trim, especially heavy embroidery, C.E.). One of first imported fabrics, this printed cloth guimp, braid, beads, tinsel, etc. came from Patna, Egypt. passementier: France. Maker of passementerie. ‘i: Samoa. Jet black. passementier-boutonnier: France. Maker of passemen- patola: India. Silk double-ikat textile or silk cloth. terie and buttons. patolaka: India. A variegated silk fabric. passements: France. Generic term for trims. patolla: See patola. passionee: Patch worn at the corner of the eye. patolo: See patola. passium: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Very wide collar- patondon: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja man’s hairstyle like necklace. where the hair is made into a knot on the front of passives: Many of the threads involved in bobbin lace; the head. similar to the warp threads of a loom. patorī: India. Sari with silk border. paste: Glass cut and polished into imitation of gems. patori: India. Sari with a silk border. pastrano: Italy. Frock coat. patrakarnika: India. Leaflike ear pendant. pastura: Romania. Apron worn over petticoats. Patrician: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Mantle cut some- pasuāj: India. Full skirt. what on the bias. Center back seam was covered with pasvāj: See pasuāj. embroidery. pat gat: India. A man’s bathing apron. patrol jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. pata: See amsuka; badhani. 1. Man’s hip-length, single-breasted jacket with five pataccara: India. Old, worn out clothing or any old fabric. buttons, Prussian collar, and a military cut. 2. Intro- patagium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Similar to clavi, duced in 1889, woman’s hip-length, fitted jacket cut a band of purple or gold decoration worn down the without center back seam. It had front military trim, fronts of women’s tunics. snug sleeves, and small cuffs. patalani: India. Rose color. patrona: India. Bleached silk. pectoll 223 patrontache: Russia. Cossack cartridge pouch. pea-green: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). patrorna: India. A variety of wild silk. Fashionable after 1809. pat-sari: India. Silk sari. peak lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration patta: India. Cloth worn by women as a waist belt. (1660–1700 C.E.). Lace with an irregular outer edge. pattabandha: India. An ornamented gold strip used to peallaid: Ireland. Gaelic word for sheepskin without hold the turban in position. the wool. pattadukula: India. A silk and linen blend. pealltag: Ireland. Gaelic word for patched cloak. pattahari: India. A silk fabric from Herat. pearl gray: Neutral gray color. pattala: See patola. pearl of beauty: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United pattamsuka: India. A plain white silk. Kingdom. Striped worsted fabric. pattamsuya: India. A fine silk fabric. pèarluinn: Ireland. Fine linen. patte: See guleron. peasant fichu: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, pattens: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Elizabethan woman’s white fichu. (1550–1625 C.E.). Chopines. peasant lace: 1. Bobbin lace. 2. Torchon style lace. patti: India. Handwoven fabric that is 9–18 inches wide. peasant look: (1960–1970 C.E.). patti jets: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. In- Late 1960s style generally con- troduced in 1869, balls of polished jet worn hanging sisting of a flounced skirt, head from a ribbon necklace with matching earrings. kerchief, and peasant blouse. pattika: India. 1. A cotton dhoti. 2. An elaborate band of peasant skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 embroidery used as a cummerbund. C.E.). United Kingdom. Intro- pattu: India. Homespun wool or tweed. duced in 1885, full circle tennis patu hitau: Maori. Stone club used to beat the flax fiber. skirt made with two or three patúnes: Greece. White cotton ankle socks. tucks. patynek: See pantofel. peasant’s lace: See bavarian lace. patzeb: India. Loincloth. peascod belly: Elizabethan (1550– pa‘u: United States of America. Hawaii. Woman’s skirt; 1625 C.E.). Doublet with pad- sarong; skirt worn by female horseback riders. ded front shaped like a peascod. pa‘u heihei: United States of America. Hawaii. Sarong peau d’agneau: France. Lambskin. peasant look made of leaves. peau d’ange: See angel skin. See also photospread pa‘u meme‘i: Samoa. Elastic. peau de béte: Bustle (1865–1890 (Women's Wear). pauku: New Zealand. Maori. A thick mat-like cloak. C.E.). In 1886, stiff plush used Dover Publications pauldron: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). In armor, to imitate fur. shoulder piece. peau de chevrette: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In pauma: United States of America. Hawaii. Large curved 1893, a heavy peau de soie. needle. peau de cygne: France. Soft lustrous fabric. pautener: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Bag worn peau de daim: France. Doeskin. hung from the girdle. peau de soie: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 pavediens: Lithuania. Thread. C.E.). France. Particularly fine taffeta. 2. Bustle pavo real: Mexico. Peacock embroidery pattern done by (1865–1890 C.E.). Dull, twill weave silk. See also the Zoque Indians. paduasoy. pavonazzo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Pea- peau de suede: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1887, a cock colored. French silk. pavot: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1886, ruby color. pebasa: Sumbawa. A cloth worn draped over the shoul- paysanne bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– der. 1815 C.E.). Worn after 1800, the cottage bonnet. peç: Iran. Fringed length of fabric. pea: Samoa. Woman’s costume. peca: Balkans. Embroidered scarf worn over the pocu- pe‘a: Samoa. Tattoo. lica. pea jacket: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crinoline pecā: India. A turban of a folded strip of nine-inch-wide (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s short cotton that is 18–25 yards long. double-breasted coat with wide lapels and a velvet peccary: Fine grained leather. collar. In 1850s, had huge buttons and a short back peche: France. Peach. vent. After 1860, called the reefer. pechschwartz: Germany. Jet black. peach: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Deep pinkish pectoll: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan orange. 2. Bright tint of red orange. (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Breast of a man’s peacock: Bright, dark blue green or green blue color. shirt. 224 pectoral

pectoral: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Piece of jewelry peiteag-mhuinicheallach: Ireland. Gaelic word for worn on a string or chain around the neck. Worn by jacket. nobility. pejar: India. Footwear. pectorale: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Breastplate. pekerere: New Zealand. Maori. A shoulder cape. pedal pushers: (1950–1959 C.E.). Snug fitting pants end- pekin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Used ca. 1879, term for ing below the knee, with or without a cuff. any striped textile of alternating matte and shiny pedal straw: Straw woven from foot of stalk. stripes. pedaline: Synthetic straw. pekin Aneline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, soft pedimental headdress: See gable headdress. woolen shawl with border of Chinese pattern. pedraria: Portugal. Jewelry. pekin bournous: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, pedule: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Canton crepe zouave for evening. Short hose, often worn turned down at the knee. 2. pekin crepe: Pekin fabric with a crepe weft. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Boot-shaped leg cov- pekin point: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in ering of flannel, leather, or other fabric. 1840, very rich white silk painted with flowers or pee: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Charles I and the foliage. Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Man’s coat or pekin satin: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). jacket. Introduced in 1807, heavy satin with a self-stripe. peek-a-boo waist: (1900–1910 C.E.). United Kingdom. pelanu vastu: India. Literally “the stuff of the past,” to Eyelet or sheer fabric shirtwaist. be out of fashion. peel: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. pele de cordeiro: See pelica. Man’s light jacket. pelego: See pelica. peeler cotton: United States of America. Cotton used for pelele: 1. Chitonga. A lip ornament. 2. Spain. Rompers. combed yarns. pelerine: Late Georgian (1750– pegged boot: Boot with sole and upper fastened to- 1790 C.E.). France. Woman’s gether with pegs. short shoulder cape of fur, vel- Peggy collar: Round, flat collar similar to Peter Pan. vet, or muslin. peg-top skirt: (20th century). Skirt peleryna: Poland. Cape. very full at the waist and tapering peleue: Samoa. Jacket. pelerine to the hem. pelica: Portugal. Lambskin. peg-top sleeves: Crinoline (1840– pelicon: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. In Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Fur-lined gar- fashion from 1857 to 1864, men’s ment worn between the chemise and the cote. sleeves cut full at the armseye and pelise: See pelisse. tapering to the wrist. Revival of pelisse: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). the gigot. Long loose cloak that opened in the center front. peg-top trousers: (1910–1920 Sometimes had a hood and was lined with fur. C.E.). In 1911 and 1912, worn by pelisse-mantle: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crinoline college boys, trousers that were (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from pleated and very wide at the waist 1838 to 1845, three-quarter to full-length caped cloak and very narrow at the ankles. that draped over the arms, forming pseudo-sleeves. peigné: France. Worsted. In the 1840s, cinched in at the waist in the back. peigne Josephine: Crinoline pelisse-robe: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Crinoline peg-top skirt (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Wom- (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from See also photospread an’s high hair comb decorated 1817 to 1850, woman’s day dress shaped like a pelisse (Women's Wear). with small gilt balls. Worn at the and tied down the center front with bows. Called the back of the head for evening. redingote after 1840. : 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Dress with pelisson: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance unboned bodice. 2. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. (1450–1550 C.E.). Furred overgarment. See also pilch. Woman’s loose unboned wrapper of light material. pellanda: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Fur lined peinadore: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Comb- overgarment with full sleeves ending in decorative ing jacket. edges. peinture à l’aiguille: France. Literally “painting with pelliccia: Italy. Fur. the needle,” pictorial . pellicea: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). peiteag: Ireland. Gaelic word for waistcoat; doublet; An 11th-century fur-lined cassock. and woolen shirt. pellicia: See pellicea. perches 225

Pelliz: Germany. Old High German term for fur. underskirt, with an overskirt or tunic worn draped to pelliza: Spain. Fur. expose the underskirt. pelo de castor: Spain. Beaver hair. pentlení: Slovakia. Very ornate bridal wedding head- pelo de liebre: Spain. Hare hair. dresses. pelo di castora: Italy. Beaver hair. peoth: Hebrew. Hair, specifically side locks. pelo di lepre: Italy. Hare hair. pepa de zapallo: Ecuador. Squash seed–shaped silver pels: Denmark and Sweden. Fur. earring. peluca: Spain. Wig. pepeiao: United States of America. Hawaii. Scallops peluche: France. Plush or plush velvet. in lace. peluche a poils: France. Literally “hairy plush,” long- pepetu: Transvaal. Ndebele pubescent girl’s beaded haired plush. rectangular apron. It is 15 x 11 inches. peluche de soie: France. Literally “silk plush,” hatter’s peplo: Spain. Peplum. plush felt. : Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Overfold of the Doric Pelz: Germany. Fur. chiton. Pembroke paletot: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United peplos chiton: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Woman’s gar- Kingdom. Man’s long-waisted, double-breasted calf- ment cut in a large rectangle. Worn with a fold on length overcoat with wide lapels, vertical breast the left side and the right side open to fall in loose pocket, flapped side pockets, and self-cuffs. drapery. Folded down at the top edge and pinned at penache: See panache. the shoulders. penang: India. Heavyweight, plain weave, native cot- peplum basque: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- ton fabric. dom. Introduced in 1866, woman’s peplum-shaped penang lawyer: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle basque on a belt. (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s walking peplum bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- stick made from the stem of a palm from Penang. dom. Woman’s evening bodice with panniers. peñas veras: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Er- peplum dolman: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- mines. dom. Introduced in 1872, woman’s dolman with long pencilled: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Colors that side points. were hand painted on fabric. peplum imperatrice: France. Basque bodice with pendants d’oreille: Long drop earrings. draped tunic or panniers. pendeloque: Pendant pear-shaped diamond or other peplum jupon: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- gem. dom. Introduced in 1866, woman’s gored petticoat pendej: Romania. Petticoat of a rough fabric. with three hoops at the bottom and a pleated flounce. pendely: Hungary. Woman’s linen skirt with a high Replaced the cage crinoline. waistband and two shoulder straps. peplum overskirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United pendicle: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s drop ear- Kingdom. Introduced in 1894, overskirt of a drape that ring. Only one was worn at a time. was pleated into the waistband, short in the back but penduricalho: Portugal. Pendant. gradually lengthening to hem length in the front. penelope: Sleeveless, knitted jacket. peplum rotonde: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- penelope canvas: Double-thread canvas used for tap- dom. Introduced in 1871, woman’s waist-length cir- estry work. cular cloak. Had a back vent and fringe on the edges. peniascoe: See pinasco. pepper and salt: Any fabric made of black and white peniche lace: Portugal. Pillow lace in black and white. yarns. penina: Samoa. Pearl. pepperbox: Walking stick with a hidden automatic penistone: United Kingdom. Once made in Penistone, firearm. coarse woolen fabric. See also forest white. percale: Tightly woven, plain weave, cotton fabric penitentials: Colloquial term for clothes of black. available in prints and solids. One of the most popu- penna di fagiano: Italy. Pheasant’s feather. lar fabrics. penna di gallo: Italy. Cock feather. percale taffeta: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced pennbazh: France. Walking stick with knobbed head, in 1859, cambric sarcenet. often used as a bludgeon. percaline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to present. Intro- pensée: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Dark purple. duced in 1848, fine, thin, plain weave, cotton fabric pentadoe: See pintado. with a glassy surface. penteado: Portugal. Coiffure. percatka: Russia. Glove. pentes: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1886, percaula: See parkala. pyramid shaped panels of silk or velvet forming an perches: France. Medium grade linen. 226 percollae

percollae: See parkala. Persian drape tunic: (1910–1920 C.E. until 1940 C.E.). percolle: See parkala. Tunic with a full cut and draped skirts. Perdita chemise: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Persian lamb: Lustrous, black, brown, or gray fur with United Kingdom. Woman’s day dress with a V-neck very tight curls. See also astrakhan. and a falling collar that closed in the center front Persian lawn: Sheer, plain weave, cotton fabric that is with buttons or ribbon bows from neck to hem. Had usually white and lustrous. Similar to India linon. a broad waist sash that tied in back. Persian lilac: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1891, a perednik: Russia. Apron. See also fartuk. new color. peridot: Semiprecious light green stone. Persian pickle: Paisley. perineal strap: Strap connected to the corset which at- Persian scarf: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 taches to menstruation napkins/towels. C.E.). Popular in 1812, cashmere or silk scarf with a periwinkle: Light blue purple. Persian border. perizoma: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Short, close-fitting Persian vest: United Kingdom. Restoration (1660–1700 Etruscan man’s trunks with contrasting trim around C.E.). Introduced by Charles II in 1666, a loose coat the legs. held by a sash or belt. perkal: Poland. Calico. Persianer: Germany. Persian lamb. perla: 1. Ecuador, Guatemala, and Poland. Pearl. 2. See persienne: Persia. Cotton or silk fabric in an elaborate biser. print. perle: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Pearl. perspective glass: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Res- perlehatt: Norway. Beaded hat. toration (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Small perlin: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration lens for seeing distant objects and worn on a chain or (1660–1700 C.E.). Scotland. Lace. ribbon around the neck. perna da calça: Portugal. Trouser leg. pertla: Bosnia. Shoelace. pērō: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Agricultural boot of peruça: Portugal. Periwig. hairy undressed hide. Peruvian cotton: Peru. Rough, hairy cotton. pérola: Portugal. Pearl; bead. Peruvian hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Woman’s hat peropus: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration made of the braided leaves of the Cuban palm. (1660–1700 C.E.). Watered double camlet. pervenche: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, new color. perpets: See perpetuana. perwyke: Periwig. perpetuana: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Very durable perzikbloesemkleurig: Holland. Peach colored. fabric. pesa: India. An embroidered skirt. perraje: Ecuador and Guatemala. Woman’s cotton or pesas: India. A gold embroidered fabric. cotton and wool blend shawl with fringed ends. Usu- peshgir: India. Skirt. ally striped. peshkir: Bulgaria. Kerchief. perramus: Spain. Raincoat. peshwas: India. Long-sleeved coat that buttons down perreje o tapado: Guatemala. Shawl. the center front. It is worn over other clothes as a perriwigg: Periwig. robe. perruche: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1873, parrot color. peski: Lapland. Smock-shaped reindeer coat with the perrukes à bourse: Bagwig. fur worn on the inside. perruque quarrée: France. Early Georgian (1700–1750 pespuntaderas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. C.E.). Literally, “squared wig.” Worn by magistrates Stitchers. and serious men, a section of hair was worn at the pespuntado: Spain. To be quilted; backstitched. nape in a queue and the rest shorter with a squared pespunte: Spain. Backstitch. bottom edge. pestelci: Romania. Apron from the Southern part of perse: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Bluish gray. 2. the country. Ornamented with colorful florals and Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Painted cloth from geometrics. Coromandel Coast. Very fashionable in 18th century pestiman: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Black or dark and again in mid-19th century. blue woolen skirt that opened in the front. Persian: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- pestryad: Russia. Cotton fabric with varicolored woolen gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Thin silk used in linings. threads. persian broadtail: Beautiful pelts of young or prema- pet: See muts. ture Persian lamb. petaa: Borneo. A bead cap. Persian cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 petal collar: Collar made of petal-shaped sections. C.E.). Introduced in 1811, fashionable riding hat. petals Marguerite: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In persian cord: Plain weave, ribbed fabric. 1875, very closely plaited trim. phaa pat chieng 227

: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). petit-gris: France and Italy. Fur from the gray squirrel Broad brimmed, low crowned (Sciurus carolinensis). hat that tied under the chin with Petit-gris: Germany. Petit-gris. strings. First recorded brimmed petit-maître: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. hat. Dandy. petassos: See petasos. petit-maîtresse: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. petasus: See petasos. Woman dandy. pet-en-l’air: Early Georgian petits bonhommes: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). petasos (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Georgian France. Cuff trim of frills of fine linen used on the (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Popular gown à la française. from 1745 to 1770s, thigh- or knee-length, sac-back peto: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Breastplate. jacket with elbow-length sleeves and a stomacher. petroméni: Greece. Cap sewn so thickly with coins that Worn with a plain skirt. it is stiff. Peter Pan collar: (20th century). pettabotta: Italy. Breastplate. Small, soft, round, turnover col- pettibockers: (1900–1910 C.E.). Ankle-length, silk jersey lar. Popularized by the stage pro- pantaloons for women. duction of Peter Pan. petticoat: 1. Woman’s underskirt. 2. Short coat worn by petersham: Rough woolen fabric, men. 3. Wide garment of waterproofed fabric worn usually navy blue. by fisherman. Petersham cloth: Heavy wool petticoat bodice: Gay Nineties (1890–1899 C.E.). United cloth with a thick nap. States of America. Corset cover. Petersham cossacks: Romantic petticoat breeches: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- (1625–1660 C.E.). United Kingdom. Full-cut upper- dom. Popular from 1817 to 1818, stocks elaborately decorated. Fashionable from 1650 Peter Pan collar man’s loose cossack flared around to around 1675. the ankles. Named for the Re- petticoat suspenders: Crinoline gency Buck, Charles, Viscount Petersham. (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, five- Petersham frock coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). inch-wide strip that fastened to United Kingdom. Popular in 1830s, man’s double- the corset and buttoned to the breasted coat with velvet collar, lapels, and cuffs. petticoat. Had large flap hip pockets. pettinato: Italy. Worsted. Petersham greatcoat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United petto: Renaissance (1450–1550 petticoat suspenders Kingdom. Man’s overcoat with a short shoulder-cape. C.E.). Italy. Breastplate. Petersham ribbon: Crinoline petuna: Glossy, durable fabric. (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- petunia: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, a softer dom. Double ribbons which were version of magenta. watered, plain, figured, or striped. peupliere: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1888, light yellow petershams: See Petersham ribbon. green. petit bord: Romantic (1815–1840 pha ap nam fon: Laos and Thailand. Monk’s bathing C.E.) to Crinoline (1840–1865 cloth. C.E.). France. Popular from 1835 pha beang: Laos. Sash. to 1850, woman’s small elaborate phaa: Laos and Thailand. Cloth. evening hat. Early version was phaa biang: See phaa pat chieng. small crowned hat with a halo phaa chet: See phaa pat chieng. brim and ribbon and aigrette trim. phaa chet naa: Thailand. Small square of patterned Smaller and made of velvet in cloth used as a ceremonial gift. In Sumatra, it is called 1840s. Always worn at the back of lamak or tampan. Petersham greatcoat the head at a slight sideways tilt. phaa chet paak: Laos and Thailand. Handkerchief. petit point: France. Small, close, thread-count embroidery. phaa khaaw maa: Thailand. Man’s multi-purpose petit velours: France. Lightweight cotton velvet. cloth used as a shoulder cloth, belt, or carrying petite pois: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1886, pea dot cloth. velvet with spots embroidered in contrasting color. phaa pat chieng: Thailand. Woman’s narrow shoulder petite robe unie: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). cloth worn under one arm with the loose ends over France. Robe that was worn over panniers. Under- the opposite shoulder. It is worn by men as a shoul- skirt was of the same fabric as the overdress. der scarf or belt. 228 phaa sarong

phaa sarong: Thailand. Man’s skirt. phrygian bonnet: Greek (3000- phaa sin: Laos. Skirt. 100 B.C.E.). Cap or bonnet of phaa yao: Thailand. Man’s long, elegantly woven piece felt or leather. Rome made it of cloth worn as a skirt. a symbol of liberty by giving phada: India. A waistband. one to freed slaves. In France phaecassium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Woman’s during the Revolution, known soft white leather shoe laced with colored silks. as le bonnet rouge, a symbol of phāgniā: India. White scarf with a red tie-dyed French freedom. border. phrygian cap: Byzantine and phainoles: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Cloak or mantle. Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). phalaka: India. Slab-like gems. Worn from ninth century to phalaka hara: India. A necklace with slab-like gems at the end of the 12th century, intervals. a pointed cap with the point phrygian bonnet phalaka valaya: India. A bracelet with slab-like gems slightly bent toward the front. set into it. Common cap. phali: Peru. Short skirt worn by children until the age Phrygian needlework: Needlework with silk and gold. of eight. phrygium: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). phalinges: Ireland. One-piece breeches and stockings. White version of the phrygian cap worn by . phãn sáp: Vietnam. Makeup. phubati: See kochi. phãn son: See phãn sáp. phuc-súrc: Vietnam. Clothing. phanatopa: India. A hood. phul gulabi: India. The color pink. pháp-y: Vietnam. Monk’s robe. phu-la: Vietnam. Scarf. pharos: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). 1. Linen version of phulam: India. A silk and cotton blend fabric. the himation. Worn only by nobles. 2. Peplos chiton phulkari: 1. India. Embroidery done in India. 2. Fabric worn belted at the waist. embroidered with Indian embroidery. phatoi: See bandi. phullu: Bolivia. Woman’s rectangular mantle worn phatui: See bandi. pinned on one shoulder. phenta: India. A turban or strip of cloth. phulphagarno ghaghro: India. A spaciously sinuous phentā Mohammadī: India. Style of turban. skirt. pheran: India. Kashmiri man’s long, sleeved robe worn phutā lugā: India. Widow’s sari without a colored bor- belted. der. pheta: India. A middle-class Parsee miter-like turban. phutadu: India. A black or red cotton stuff. Originally a round turban. phylactery: 1. Amulet worn on body as protection. 2. phetia: India. Narrow piece of cloth worn over the skirt Fringe or other border. to indicate that the wearer’s husband is alive. An up- physical wig: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United per class woman’s ghāgrā. Kingdom. Man’s long bob wig. Popular with the pheto: India. A turban that is folded fresh each time it learned professions. is worn. pí’ ao: China. Fur-lined jacket. phicchi: Bolivia. Pin used to fasten mantles. pi bian: China. Man’s ridged hat made from white rein- philibeg: Scotland. Kilt. deer or woven rattan covered in gauze. Philip and Cheney: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to pi ling: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Man’s Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. court shoulder collar. Usually embroidered with Wool fabric similar to camlet. dragon designs. Philip and China: See Philip and Cheney. p’i ling: See piling. Philippine embroidery: Embroidery with dainty floral pianelle: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan patterns. (1550–1625 C.E.). Italy. Shoe similar to the pantoufle. philiselie: See filozella. pianeta di prete: Italy. Chasuble. phillamot: Color of a dead or faded leaf. piazi: India. Flesh pink. philoselle: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– picadilly Johnny: See masher. 1660 C.E.). Variety of camlet. picado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Pinked. phiren: India. A woolen smock worn by the Kashmiris. picaporte: Spain. Traditional door-knocker hairstyle of phoinos: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Blood red color. Andalusia. phoque: France. Seal fur. picaranga pāgadi: See picaranga peco. phosphorescent: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In picaranga peco: India. A five-color tie-dyed version of 1892, a changeable fabric. the turban. Pikee 229 piccadil: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Decorative tabs Kingdom. Three-quarter length cloak with a shoul- worn at the armseye on the doublet. der cape and a pierrot ruff. Piccadilly collar: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- pierrot ruff: (1890–1899 C.E.). United Kingdom. Fur- dom. Popular from 1860s on, man’s separate stand- edged ruff worn on capes. ing collar. pierścień: Poland. Finger ring. piccadilly fringe: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Bangs cut pietra dura: Colored stones inlaid with black marble straight or fringed. and used in jewelry. piccadilly weepers: See dundrearys. pifferaro bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- piccolo punto: Italy. Petit point. dom. Introduced in 1877, woman’s flat-crowned, picheh: Persia. Woman’s black horsehair face mask. narrow brimmed felt bonnet with feather trim. pichodī: See pachedī. pifferaro hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. pichu anaku: Ecuador. A full-length anaku. Woman’s chimney pot shaped hat with an aigrette pichu jerga: Ecuador. Woman’s tunic worn pinned at in front. the shoulders. pigache: Byzantine and Roman- pici: Java. A black velvet cap. esque (400–1200 C.E.). Shoe pickadil: Standing collar, often with a scalloped edge. with a long pointed turned up : Germany. Spiked helmet. toe. Plural is pigaciae. picklock: Fine grade of merino and Siberian wool. pigeon fan: Bustle (1865–1890 picot: Finished pointed edge on fabric. C.E.). In 1877, stuffed head and pigache picoté: To be edged in picot. breast of bird with spread wings as a fan mounted picture hat: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United on ivory handle. Kingdom. Woman’s large wide-brimmed straw hat pigeon’s breast: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1896, trimmed in strongly contrasting colors. a new color. pidan: Korea. Silk. pigeon’s throat: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1896, pidjak: Russia. Peasant man’s jacket. a new color. pidjama: Bosnia. Pajamas. pigeon-winged toupee: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). pidzak: Russia. Coat. Man’s toupee with one or two horizontal rolls above pie: See enredos. the ears. Worn with various queues. pie frill: (1910–1920 C.E.). Small crisp ruffle around pi-gia-ma: Vietnam. Pajamas. woman’s round neckline. pigskin: Tough, durable leather made from the skins of pie plate: Very flat beret. wild hogs. piecette: Gusset in a glove. pigtail wig: Early Georgian pied: See particolored. (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- Piedmont gown: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s United Kingdom. Introduced around 1775, variation wig with a long curled queue of the sac-back gown. or a braided queue that was piedra de añil: Guatemala. Indigo. tied at the top and bottom with piegatura: Italy. Fold. a black ribbon. piegatura a punte: Italy. Multipointed fold. pihapiha-‘o-kohola: United piegatura triangolare: Italy. Triangle fold. States of America. Hawaii. pieghettato: Italy. Plissé. Pleated ruffle. piel de angel: Spain. Peau d’ange. pihi: United States of America. piel de becerro: Spain. Calfskin. Hawaii. Button. piel de cisne: Spain. Peau de cygne. pihi pulima: United States of piel de foca: Ecuador. A heavily felted wool cloth. America. Hawaii. Cuff button. piel de seda: Spain. Peau de soie. pijama: Portugal. Pajama. piel de tiburón: Spain. Sharkskin. pijian: China. Cape; shawl. piele: Romania. Leather. pijjekker: Holland. Pea jacket. pigtail wig pieptar: Romania. Short, sheepskin vest trimmed with pijpekrullen: Netherland. Long curls. strips of leather. pikaklė: Lithuania. Collar. pieptarita: See pieptar. piked shoe: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renais- pierrot: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Worn sance (1450–1550 C.E.). Popular from 1370 to 1410 from 1784 until the Revolution, a caraco with fanci- and again from 1460 to 1480, shoes with long ful trim. pointed toes. pierrot cape: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United Pikee: Germany. Piqué. 230 pilch pilch: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Fur or leather outer pinafore heel: Nearly flat heel on children’s shoes. garment. pinasco: India. Cloth made from pineapple fiber. pilche: See pilch. pinatikan: Celebes. A fabric woven on a back-tension pile: Fabric surface of standing threads. loon with a continuous warp. pilece: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). pinayusa: Philippine hemp fabric dyed with local dye. United Kingdom. Skin or fur garment worn by both pinch back coat: (20th century). Coat with inverted genders. pleats at the back. pileolus: Non-liturgical skull cap worn under miter and pinchbeck button: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). tiara by Catholic prelates. Used after 1769, button made from a copper and zinc : 1. Rome. Man’s felt cap. 2. Elizabethan (1550– alloy that cheaply imitated gilt buttons. 1625 C.E.). Skull cap or a round, pointed, brimless pince: France. Dart. cap favored by academics. pincheck: Very tiny check. pilgrim: Cape or ruffle on back of bonnet to cover neck. pindileu: Romania. Loose, much pleated skirt of hemp or pilgrim’s hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 hemp and cotton. Trimmed on the waistband and hem. C.E.). Introduced in 1811, Carmelite brown hat with piñe: Peru. Silver pendant. a cockleshell ornament on the front. pine: Samoa. Safety pin. piling: China. Manchu man’s triangular court collar. pine cloth: Delicate, transparent fabric made from pine- pilion: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s felt cap. apple leaf. piliyā: India. Yellow scarf with red dot tie-dye color pine kaiapa: United States of America. Hawaii. Liter- with black border. ally “diaper pin,” safety pin. pillbox: Small round hat. pine kaula‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Liter- pilleus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 ally “hanging pin,” clothespin. C.E.). Hat. pine marten: See baum marten. pilling: The formation of broken pine umauma: United States of America. Hawaii. Brooch. fibers into ball on the surface of pineapple fabric: See mousseline de soie. fabric. pinga: India. Lower body garment. pillion: Early Gothic (1200–1350 piniki: Samoa. Pink color. C.E.). Ecclesiastical hat or cap. pinion: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration pillow lace: See bobbin lace. (1660–1700 C.E.). Dropped shoulder line. pillu: Bolivia. Man’s headdress. pink: 1. Tint of red. 2. To cut the edge of fabric. 3. Scarlet pillbox pīlo: 1. See manchester. 2. See coat. 4. Scarlet hunting coat. The name refers to the pomaco. color of a well-worn hunting coat. pilos: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). 1. Cape, worn by com- pinking: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Decorative treat- moners. 2. Hat with a round, high crown and little ment of fabric involving punching holes in the material. or no brim. pinks and green: (1940–1950 C.E.). United States of pilot cloth: Coarse, thick, twill weave, woolen cloth America. Olive drab semi-dress uniform worn by napped on one side. Usually navy blue. Army officers and warrant officers. pilsc: See pilsn. pinlán: China. Reddish blue. pilsn: Poland. Felt. pinlù: China. Light green. pilu saluf: Timbuktu. Headhunters’ garb. pinner: 1. Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 pilus tinctus: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Ireland. C.E.). Elaborate apron. 2. Early Georgian (1700–1750 Dyed fabric. C.E.). Woman’s headdress of two long flaps, one on pima cotton: United States of America. Long staple fi- each side of the head, and pinned in place. ber cotton grown in Arizona. pinson: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Restoration pimento: Evergreen wood used for parasol handles. (1660–1700 C.E.). Term in use from 14th century to pimpalia: India. A green cotton stuff. end of the 16th century for a light indoor shoe. Term pin check: Fine check, usually woven. was later replaced by pump. pin dot: Smallest dot used in fabric design. pintada: Ecuador. To be of a color. pin stripe: Narrowest stripe used in fabrics. pintado: 1. Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– piña cloth: Philippine Islands. Delicate, soft, transparent 1660 C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). East In- fabric made from leaf fibers of the pineapple plant. dian fabric. 2. India. Spotted or painted cloth. pinafore costume: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United pintadoe: See pintado. Kingdom. Introduced in 1879, tennis dress made pinthadoe: See pintado. with bibbed pinafore front worn over a princess line, pinyuè: China. Pale blue. kilted skirt. Made of a fancy fabric. pînza: Spain. Dart. plátno 231 pînză: Romania. Linen. pizzo ad ago: Italy. Needlepoint lace. pio borong: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja long rectangular pizzo ad ago a fuselli: Italy. Bobbin lace. cotton loincloth. pizzo : Italy. Venetian lace. piorko: Poland. Feather. pizzo rinasciemento: Italy. Tape lace made with woven pipi: United States of America. Hawaii. Kind of tapa. tapes and needle lace fillings. pipkin: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. placard: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Stomacher. Woman’s small hat with a flat crown and usually placardo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- trimmed with jeweled hat-band and feathers. dom. Garment worn beneath the coat or gown. piqué: 1. Firm, corded fabric of cotton, silk, or rayon. placcards: See placcates. 2. Glove seam where one piece overlaps the other. 3. placcates: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Small steel Inlay of metal, tortoiseshell, etc. plates used to strengthen the breastplate armor. pique devant: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United plackard: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United King- Kingdom. Popular from 1570s to 1600, short pointed dom. 1. Man’s stomacher filling in the V- or U-shaped beard. gap in the doublet. 2. Front panel or stomacher in a piquet: France, Italy. Piqué. surcoat. Often embroidered or trimmed with fur. piquets: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Ornamental placket: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- sprays worn on lace evening caps by matrons. dom. 1. Slit in the side of a petticoat. 2. Petticoat. 3. pirahan: 1. Persia. Woman’s thin muslin shirt that is Woman wearing a petticoat. richly embroidered and studded with pearls. 2. Iran. plaid: Scotland. Square or rectangular tartan garment Man’s white cotton shirt with long pointed cuffs. worn as cloak. pirahan-e zananeh: Iran. Woman’s flowing gown. plaid neuk: Sewn up corner of plaid. pirkstaine: See cimds. plain bow stock: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United pirned: Scotland. Having colored stripes or brocade. Kingdom. Man’s stock of black silk with a bow in pirnie: Scotland. Term for a striped wool nightcap. the front. pirny: See pirnie. plain weave: Simplest and most common weave. pirpiri: Sleeveless garment with a full skirt. plait: 1. Braid, as in straw. 2. Variation of pleat. pirštinė: Lithuania. Glove. plaits: See wheat ears. piryiellya: Greece. Gold bobbin lace. plakhta: Ukraine. Woman’s paneled skirt that opens in pisany lapti: Slovakia. Fancy bast sandals. the front. Woven in a square fancy pattern. pishka: Peru. Rectangular cloth or leather bag used to plangi: Indonesia. Tie-dye. carry salt, coca, money, etc. plantillas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Insoles. piskalaka: See sucisutra. plasc: Russia. Cloak. pîslă: Romania. Felt. plast: Croatia and Serbia. Cloak. pistache: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Fashionable in plást: Czechoslovakia. Cloak. 1819, very soft shade of green. plastron: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– pistachio color: See pistache. 1890 C.E.). 1. Front panel in a woman’s gown made pistai: India. Pea green. from different color or fabric from the rest of the pistak: India. A pistachio green color. gown. 2. Separate front of a woman’s dress. 3. Man’s pistent: Iran. Sash. unpleated shirt front. pístres: Greece. Pleats. płaszcz: Poland. Cloak; overcoat. pitambara cadara: India. A yellow silk cadar. płat: 1. Braid of hair or straw. 2. Cords braided. : Light pith hat for plat’e: See odezda. tropical wear. plateado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Silvered. pitji: Tall cap. plateau: 1. Disk like hat. 2. Flat piece of fabric. piuma: Italy. Feather. platform sole: Usually of cork or wood, one-half-inch- piuma di struzzo: Italy. Ostrich to three-inch-thick shoe sole. pith helmet plume. platilla: Silesia. White linen fab- piupiu: Australia. . ric. piwa haka: United States of America. Hawaii. Beaver platinum: 1. Grayish white pre- hat. cious metal. 2. Neutral gray píyi: China. . color. pizama: Poland. Pajamas. Platner: Renaissance (1450–1550 pizane: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Breast- C.E.). Germany. Armorer. platform sole plate. platno: Croatia and Serbia. Linen. See also photospread pizzo: Italy. Lace. plátno: Czechoslovakia. Linen. (Foot and Legwear). 232 plato de lo gorro plato de lo gorro: Spain. Flat crown of a hat. pluette: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Heavy water- Platoff cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 proof fabric. C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s pale pink satin plug oxford: with circular vamp. evening cap with a scalloped front and a row of pluie d’argent: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, poplin pearls and a pearl tassel from the crown. dotted with yellow. Platoff costume: Directoire and First Empire (1790– pluie d’or: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, poplin dot- 1815 C.E.). Style of dress named for the daughter of ted with white. General Platoff who supposedly offered his daugh- pluinnseag: Ireland. Gaelic word for large coarse apron. ter’s hand to any soldier who would bring him Na- plum: Soft, dark blue purple. poleon’s head. pluma de avestruz: Spain. Ostrich plume. platok: Russia. Light summer scarf worn tied at the pluma de gallo: Spain. Cock feather. neck. plumach: Obsolete term for plume. Plauen lace: Machine lace on muslin with the non- plumage: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Italy. Os- embroidered part of the fabric removed. trich feather trim around the edge of the hat brim. pleasance: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan plumbet: Silk or wool fabric. (1550–1625 C.E.). Fine quality lawn. plume: See aigrette. pleated shirt: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 plume d’autruche: France. Ostrich plume. C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. plume de coq: France. Cock feather. Popular from 1806 to 1870s, man’s day shirt with plume de faisan: France. Pheasant’s feather. narrow vertical pleats down the front. Also worn for plume velvet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced evening dress after 1840. Closed with studs. in 1820, velvet with a narrow satin stripe of the same pleated trousers: See cossacks. color. pleureuses: France. After 1900, ostrich feathers length- plumes fantaisies: France. A milliner’s term for feathers ened by gluing or gumming strands together. other than ostrich. pliage: France. Fold. plumetis: 1. France. Feather-stitch. 2. Dress muslin. pliage en pointe: France. Multipointed fold. plummet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration pliage en triangle: France. Triangle fold. (1660–1700 C.E.). Drop earring. pliakthi: Greece. Everyday chemises worn by older plumpers: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Round balls to women. The chemises are embroidered with dark fill out the cheeks. colored cotton. plunket: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Colored plimsoll: Australia. Canvas shoe. cloth. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Light blue. plisado: Spain. Pleat. plus fours: (1920–1930 C.E.). Men’s full-cut knickers plisado en abanico: Spain. Sunray pleats. that bloused on to a band that buttoned or buckled plisado en acordeón: Spain. Accordion pleat. at the knee. When unbuttoned they fell four inches plisado en sierra: Spain. Knife pleat. below the knee. plisado encontrado: Spain. Box pleat. plush: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Pile plisîrani: Romania. Woman’s short skirted frock. fabric, usually of wool, with a longer pile than velvet. plissé: France. Cotton fabric finished with a puckered plush velveteen: Cotton plush. effect. plushette: Inferior plush. plissé crepe: Seersucker like fabric. pluvial: Long ceremonial robe worn by priests and kings. plissiert: Germany. Plissé. po: Korea. Embroidered dragon insignia. plivers: Lithuania. Veil. pòca: Ireland. Pocket. plodan: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Rough wool poche: France. Pocket. checked fabric used for women’s cloaks. poches: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Small plomb: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1885, lead color. pads worn at the hips to replace panniers. plooi: Holland. Pleat. pochette: France. Handbag; pocket handkerchief. ploščius: See apsiustas. pocket cascade: Pocket in a folded and draped section płotno: Poland. Linen. of the skirt. When they appear on both sides, it gives ploughman’s gauze: Directoire and First Empire (1790– the illusion of a peg-top skirt. 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1801, fine gauze fabric with pocket handkerchief: Regular handkerchief worn in satin spots. Used for ladies’ evening gowns. man’s jacket pocket. pluderhose: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Germany. pocket siphonia: See siphonia. Term for baggy breeches with wide vertical panes poculica: Balkans. Embroidered cap. and silk linings between the panes. Linings some- poddyovka: Russia. Woman’s long-waisted coat. times overhung the panes below. pó-de-arroz: Portugal. Face powder. poke collar 233 podhiá: Greece. Long, one piece, sleeveless, ankle- point de Paris: 1. Narrow, light, dainty bobbin lace. 2. length garment. Machine lace similar to Val lace. podkapnik: Bulgaria. Skullcap. point de raccroc: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. podkolanówki: Poland. Knee socks. Invisible stitch to sew strips of bobbin lace into large podkošulja: Bosnia. Vest. flounces or shawls. podopleka: Russia. Shoulder lining in a man’s shirt. point de rose: France. Needle lace similar to Venetian podszewka: Poland. Lining. gros point. podvika: Slovakia. Woman’s fine rectangular shawl. point de sedan: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early pœll: See hacele. Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. Form of point de poes: Bulgaria. Man’s black woolen waistband. France. poetsdoek: See glazendoek. point de tige: France. Stem stitch. pofbroek: Holland. Trunkhose. point de : France. Whole stitch. : Holland. Woman’s over-bonnet. point de Venise à reseau: Fine, flat, mesh-grounded pofi: Norway. Old word for felt. needle lace made in Brussels. pogoni: Russia. Shoulder boards. point de Venise a rose: Small gros point de Venise. pohaku ‘oma‘oma‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. point d’Espagne: France. Variation of the chain Emerald. stitch. pohoi: New Zealand. Maori. An ear ornament made point d’espagne: Spain. Needlepoint lace with gold or from bird skins. silver threads. poignée: France. Cuffs. point d’esprit: 1. Net or tulle with dots. 2. A cotton lace poil: Thread of raw silk used to make core of tinsel. with small oval or square dots. 3. Small figures in poil de castor: France. Beaver hair. guipure lace. poil de saxe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, cotton point en sabretache: France. Border trim in pattern of and wool blend fabric. sabretache. poile de chevre: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. point lace: Needlepoint lace. Introduced in 1861, goat’s hair textile with a satiny point noué: France. Knotted buttonhole stitch. surface. point passé: France. Satin stitch. point: See aglet. point plat: France. Flat point lace. point à la vierge: France. Rose ground lace. point Turc: France. Flat, decorative way to finish a seam point à l’aiguille: France. Applique lace. used on handmade lingerie. point à reseau: France. Point lace on a net ground. pointed fox: Fox fur with white guard hairs inserted to point Colbert: France. A modern term for a mid-19th- simulate silver fox. century lace. poire: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). point coupé: France. Cutwork. France. Drop earrings. point d’Alençon: France. 1. Alencon point lace. 2. Her- Poiret twill: Named for the French dress designer, Paul ringbone stitch. Poiret, worsted fabric similar to gabardine. point d’Angleterre lace: France. Fine-ground pillow poissarde: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). lace. France. Earring with a semicircular or S-shaped point de Bayeux: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. A hinged back. bobbin lace made of flax or cotton. poitrel: France. 1. Armor breastplate. 2. Stomacher re- point de chainette: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). New sembling a breastplate. braid trim. poitrine: France. Chest or bosom. point de cordonnet: France. Couching stitch. pojagi: Korea. Wrapping cloth. point de croix: France. Cross-stitch. pojas: 1. Croatia and Serbia. Girdle. 2. Russia. Belt. Point de Fée: Bobbin lace made in the Province of An- pójas: Greece. Polychrome, striped woven belt. twerp. poka‘a lopi: United States of America. Hawaii. Spool point de feston: France. Buttonhole stitch. of thread. : See Argentan lace. poka‘a-pilali: United States of America. Hawaii. Sew- : Belgium. Fine needlepoint lace. ing machine’s bobbin winder. point de gaze lace: France. Belgian needlepoint appli- poke: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Pouch or bag. que lace. poke bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 point de Hongroie: France. Canvaswork stitch. C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. point de Hongrye: See Hungerland lace. Popular from 1799 to end of the 19th century, wom- point de neige: Decorative mesh of cloudy spots used an’s bonnet with large brim. in Flemish bobbin lace. poke collar: Standing collar. 234 poke sleeve

poke sleeve: Long, loose sleeve. polished cotton: Cotton fabric with a shiny face. pokeka: New Zealand. Maori. The generic term for a polka: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. rough cloak. Introduced in 1844, woman’s short cashmere or vel- poket: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) vet mantle or jacket with loose sleeves. Lined with to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. silk. 2. Short, button-down blouse. Middle English word for pocket. Polka: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, surplice pokeys: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Enormously long front mantle with pagoda sleeves. Black was the false sleeves. most popular color. Trimmed in many ways. poking stick: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Rod used to : Dot used in allover pattern. adjust the pleats of a ruff. : 1. Peru and Spain. Skirt. 2. Bolivia. Woman’s pokinikini: See kiniki. European-style full gathered or pleated skirt. 3. Ec- pokkuri: Japan. Dressy lacquered geta for girls. uador. Waistband. polaina: Spain. Gaiter; spat. polmesenic: Romania. Woman’s white cotton head veil. polakem: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Russia. Worn over the caita. Cloth or felt cap with flaps that turned down to cover polo belt: Wide leather belt. ears and neck. polo cloth: Heavy coating fabric of wool and/or camel’s Poland mantle: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 hair. C.E.). Introduced in 1806, woman’s mantle of light polo collar: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United silk and fastened with a clasp or brooch on the right Kingdom. In 1899, a starched white stand-fall collar. shoulder. polo dot: Large dot printed on fabric. polayn: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fur of the black polo shirt: Informal, short sleeved shirt, often collarless. squirrel. polonaise: See gown à la polonaise. polca: Peru. Woman’s short jacket with a ruffle on the polonaise à deux fins: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). lower edge. France. Literally “a two-purpose polonaise,” gown poldavis: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Coarse linen with the skirt back intended to drape up or train. fabric. polonaise pardessus: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popu- polecat: Thick, light yellow fur from the Mustela puto- lar in 1840s, woman’s half-length pardessus that but- rius. toned to the waist and then sloped away to reveal the polera: Spain. Polo shirt. dress beneath it. Sometimes had a short cape. : Early Gothic (1200–1350 polonese: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Knee-caps of iron from a C.E.) to Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United suit of armor. States of America. Long-sleeved coat-like garment policeman’s cape: Gay Nineties that opened down the front. Had large hood. (1890–1900 C.E.). United King- poloneze: See gown à la polonaise. dom. Introduced in 1895, one- polonia: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 piece circular cape. C.E.). United Kingdom. Fashionable high heel shoe so Polish: High, laced shoe or boot. high that it caused the wearer to stagger as they walked. Polish boots: Crinoline (1840– : Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Woman’s high cylindri- 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Pop- cal hat. ular in 1860s, women’s tall boots polotno: Russia. Linen. with a tassel and colored high polrock: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). poleyns heels. United Kingdom. Polish coat with black hussar braid Dover Publications Polish greatcoat: Directoire and on the front. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. polu-kaftan: Russia. Literally “half kaftan,” a tunic. Introduced in 1810, man’s long, fitted coat with Rus- polushubka: Russia. Short sheepskin coat. sian lambskin collar, cuffs, and lapels. It closed with polverino: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. frogs. Worn for evening. Introduced in 1846, woman’s large silk unlined cloak Polish jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- that wrapped around the body, sometimes with a hood. dom. Introduced in 1846, woman’s waist-length pomaco: India. Woman’s scarf. cashmere jacket with revers and collar cut in the mas- pomade: Fragrant cosmetic, usually for the hair. culine line. It had sleeves slit to the elbow on the in- pomander: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Hollow or- ner side. Lined in quilted satin and worn for country. nament, often a filigreed ball, which held a sponge of Polish mantle: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- perfume. Worn suspended from the girdle. 2. Eliza- dom. Introduced in 1835, woman’s knee-length satin bethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Metal case in which was an mantle with a cape. Trimmed in fur. aromatic substance or perfume. popielaty 235 pomaranczowy: Poland. Orange color. poncho: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- pomatum: Perfumed ointment used on hair. dom. Popular in 1850s, man’s double-breasted over- pomchā: India. Woman’s head veil. coat with pagoda sleeves. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 pomegranate: Brilliant yellowish red. C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s loose three-quarter pomme d’ambre: France. Ball- or apple-shaped poman- caped cloak that buttoned from the neck to the hem. der. It had a small stand collar and sleeves that tapered pomme de pin: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. to the wrist. 3. South America. Large rectangle of Literally “pinecone,” a name for the pomegranate unsewn cloth with an opening for the head. 4. Crino- pattern in fabric. line (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, plaid mantelet with a pomme de senteur: See pomme d’ambre. slightly gathered hood. Outside of hood and lower Pomona green: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 edge of a different solid fabric. Mantelet trimmed C.E.). Introduced in 1812, shade of green similar to with vandyke velvet ribbon and large pearl buttons. apple green. poncho amarrado: Ecuador. Warp-resist patterned pon- pompadour: 1. See hip bags. 2. Late Georgian (1750– chos. 1790 C.E.). Red violet. 3. Dainty floral pattern. poncho boliviano: Bolivia. Man’s contemporary poncho pompadour bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United in red, green, and orange (colors of the Bolivian flag). Kingdom. Woman’s day bodice with a square neck- poncho cuadrada: Ecuador. Plaid poncho. line and snug-fitting sleeves ending in frills. poncho jijún: See poncho cuadrada. pompadour chiné: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Wool poncho rosado: Ecuador. Pink warp-resist dyed poncho. twill fabric with a chiné pattern and minute horizon- poncho tiñiska: See poncho tintoridao. tal stripes. poncho tintoridao: Ecuador and Guatemala. Ikat pon- pompadour duchesse: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). cho. France. Introduced in 1850, striped satin with alter- ponczocha: Poland. Stocking. nating plain and flowered stripes. poneva: Russia. Woman’s peasant skirt made from pompadour heel: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). three lengths of checked woolen homespun. France. Popular in 1750s and 1760s, high slender heel Poney: France. Pony. that curved to a narrow base. pongee: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1870s, pompadour pardessus: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. shantung. 2. Thin, plain weave silk fabric with a Popular in 1850s, colored silk pardessus with fringe, natural tan color. elbow-length sleeves. Often fastened only at the neck. ponit: Korea. Bonnet. pompadour polonaise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Intro- ponto de cruz: Portugal. Cross-stitch. duced in 1872, woman’s black foulard polonaise with pony: Short-haired fur from the Equus caballus. large, bright flowers. Paired with a plain skirt. ponyet: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Charles I pompadour shantung: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Intro- and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Foresleeve duced in 1880, thick, patterned washing silk. of a man’s doublet when made in a contrasting fab- pompeian red: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, dull ric. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration scarlet. (1660–1700 C.E.). Men’s bodkins. pompeian silk sash: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popu- po‘o hina: United States of America. Hawaii. Gray lar in 1860s, woman’s wide black sash with mytho- haired; ash colored. logical subjects. Generally worn with a white sum- po‘o ke‘oke‘o: United States of America. Hawaii. White mer jacket, bodice, and a colored skirt. haired; platinum blonde. pompon: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late po‘o kuakea: United States of America. Hawaii. Liter- Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular from 1740s to ally “bleached head,” gray haired. 1760s, ornament for a woman’s hat or cap. Named poodle cloth: Fabric similar to the coat of a French for Madame Pompadour. 2. Round, ball-shaped trim. poodle. pomposa: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). pootae taua: Australia. Maori mourning cap of rushes Worn after 1807 by children, high-cut slipper that or feathers. laced up the front. popatiya: India. A parrot green stuff. ponceau: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, very popelina: Spain. Poplin. bright shade of scarlet. popeline: 1. Rep fabric with a silk warp and wool weft. ponchito: 1. Guatemala. Man’s small woolen blanket 2. Holland. Poplin. worn as a hip wrap or apron. 2. Bolivia. Small pon- popes ministers: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Res- cho worn like a yoke or apron. toration (1660–1700 C.E.). Possibly a linen manufac- ponchiyā: India. Bracelet studded with precious stones tured in Munster. and pearls. popielaty: See szary. 236 popinjay

popinjay: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Bluish green. portaligas: Spain. Garter belt. pople: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance porte-bonheur: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, brace- (1450–1550 C.E.). Fur from the back of a squirrel. let consisting of five armlets, each with a different poplin: Named from papeline, 15th-century fabric wo- stone. ven at Avignon, France. Durable medium weight, portefraes: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles I plain weave fabric with fine cross ribs. Made from and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Holland. cotton, silk, wool, or a blend. Pleated collar. poplin lactee: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in porte-jupe pompadour: Bustle 1837, poplin shot with white. (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular in poplin lama: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1860s, belt worn by women 1864, softer and thicker version of mousselaine de with suspenders to hitch up laine. the skirt when walking. poplinette: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in portemonnaie: Bustle (1865–1890 1859, wool, linen, or other fiber woven with glazed C.E.). France. Woman’s purse threads in imitation of poplin. carried in the pocket or muff, popolohua: United States of America. Hawaii. Purplish not in the hand. blue. porte-train: Petticoat worn to porte-jupe pompadour poppy red: Bright yellow red. support train. pora: New Zealand. Maori. A rough cape. portki: See spodnie. porasz: Romania. Thick woolen laces used to tie the portnoj: Russia. Tailor. sandals or boots. portrait collar: Wide collar that narrows in front, form- poratpit: Korea. Purple. ing frame for the neck. porcelain: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Portuguese farthingale: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Wedgwood color. United Kingdom. Popular for a few years around porcelain button: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Pat- 1662, woman’s farthingale that was flat in front and ented in 1785, fashionable decoration on men’s gar- in back. Brought to United Kingdom by Catherine of ments. Braganza on her marriage to Charles II. porc-epic: See porcupine headdress. Portuguese knot: Outline stitch knotted at center of porcupine headdress: Directoire and First Empire each stitch. (1790–1815 C.E.). Popular in 1798, hairstyle with the posahuanco: Mexico. Woman’s wraparound skirt. hair cut very short and standing up like bristles. pósta: Greece. Belt of a dress. porfira: Greece. A royal crimson color. postav: See stofă. poriaan: South Africa. Ndebele man’s front apron made postavu: Bulgaria. Lining. from fur and beaded in geometric designs. postboy hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in poritutu roto: Celebes. A ceremonial banner. 1885, woman’s small straw hat with a high flat crown pork pie: 1. A round, pillbox and a narrow sloping brim. Had a plume of feathers shaped hat worn by women. 2. in the front and was worn on the top of the head. See trilby. posteen: East Indian leather garment with fleece left on. porkhani: India. Lower ear earrings. posten: India. Leather garment with the hair or fleece pork-pie hat: Crinoline (1840– still on it. See also posteen. pork pie 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Pop- postiche: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Fake beard of ular in 1860s, woman’s hat with leather, felt, or metal. Worn only by royalty. a low flat crown and a narrow postilion coat: Greatcoat modeled after those worn by turned up brim. postilions. poro-toroa: New Zealand. Maori. postillion: High-crowned hat with a narrow brim that pork-pie hat Two-inch pendants of albatross rolls on the sides. bones. postillon: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Fashionable porphura: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Purple. around 1860, gathered or ruffled basque at the bot- porphyry: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, a tint be- tom of the bodice back. tween brick red and garnet. postin: See posten. porpora: Italy. Purple. postola: See obuca. porraye: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Green cloth. posy: Single flower or bouquet of flowers. port manteau sunshade: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United posztólájbi: Romania. Overcoat. Kingdom. Introduced in 1879, en-tout-cas that fit in a pot: Guatemala. Woman’s covering, shawl, tzut, blouse, medium size trunk. or tunic. prêt-à-porter 237 pot derby: Pot shaped hat. poussin lace: Made in Dieppe, France. Fine, narrow pot hat: See pot derby. lace similar to Valenciennes lace. See also Dieppe pot lace: Rare bobbin lace. point lace. potae taua: New Zealand. Maori. Mourning fillet worn poustomániko: Greece. Bolero jacket. by widows. poutouri: Greece. Man’s dark woolen trousers. pothia: Greece. An apron. powder blue: Soft medium blue. poti: India. A short cotton waistcloth. powdering dress: See powdering jacket. potkošulja: Bosnia. Undershirt. powdering gown: See powdering jacket. pottala: India. A cotton fabric. powdering jacket: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to potur: Turkey. Serge breeches. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. poturi: Bulgaria. Men’s breeches Loose wrapper worn over the clothes to protect them of white serge that are cut wide in while the wig was being powdered. the top with tapering legs. poyas: Bulgaria. Man’s festive sash. pou dula bunga: Roti, Ndao, and poynte: See aglet. Savu. Woman’s skirt cloth. ppipu ppipu ahuaska: Peru. A closely woven fabric. pouch: Byzantine and Roman- pracchadapata: See nicola. esque (400–1200 C.E.) to Elizabe- prachchhada: India. Wrap. potur than (1550–1625 C.E.). Worn from prada: Indonesia. Application of gold dust, leaf, or 12th century through early 16th century, bag or paint to a textile. wallet hung from a man’s belt or girdle. Commonly praðr: Norway. Old word for thread. worn with a knife or dagger stuck through the straps praetexta: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). White robe supporting it. with purple border. pou-de-soie: See poult-de-soie. praghata: India. A loose, long, unwoven fringe on a nivi. pou-fou: China. Pectorals. prāiscīn: See aprūn. poufs au sentiment: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). prakhotaeo: Laos and Thailand. Waistband; belt. France. Worn around 1780, women’s huge hairstyles pramana-krtsna: India. A shoe with two, three, or four with elaborate and fanciful trimmings. soles. poukamiso: Greece. A woman’s chemise. pranken: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Term meaning poulaines: Late Gothic (1350–1450 to arrange the folds of a gown. C.E.). France. Shoes in Polish style prapadina: India. Woman’s tunic that reaches to the feet. with long pointed toes. Number pratidhi: India. Piece of fabric worn to cover a woman’s poulaines of edicts were passed to limit their breasts; a breast band worn tied in back. See also photospread length and eventually to outlaw pratigraha: India. Thimble. (Foot and Legwear). them. All were ineffective. pratinivasana: India. Undergarment. poult de soir: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Intro- pravara: India. Upper body garment. duced in 1863, fabric blend of silk and alpaca with a pravatra: India. Earrings. shiny surface. praveni: India. A plait of hair. poult-de-soie: France. Heavy, plain weave silk with a prawing-spinel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 slight rib. C.E.). United Kingdom. Hairpin. pound blanket: United States of America. Any piece of preen: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) coarse, handspun, aniline dyed yarn Navajo blanket. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. pounghí: Greece. Bag. Middle English word for pin. pourpoint: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Short jacket pregaca: Croatia and Serbia. Apron. with tight sleeves. Worn under the cotehardie. pregnant stay: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 pourpre: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Purple. 2. Di- C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1811, woman’s rectoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Crimson corset that reached from the shoulders to below the red dye made from cochineal. 3. France. Purple. hips and heavily boned to hide the woman’s delicate pourpre gris: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Gray crim- condition. son. prēon: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). pourpre sanguine: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Purple. United Kingdom. In 10th century, brooch or pin poussière: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1869, dust color. worn by women. poussière de Paris: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. press cloth: Piece of fabric used between iron and fabric Introduced in 1819, shade of light brown. while pressing. poussière des ruines: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In prestilka: Bulgaria. Front apron, 50 x 80 cm. 1827, a new color. prêt-à-porter: France. Ready to wear clothing. 238 pretina

pretina: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Breeches princess petticoat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United waistband. Kingdom. Popular from 1840s on, woman’s petticoat prétintailles: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Elabo- and bodice combination cut without a waist seam rate cutout ornaments of lace or gold embroidery and buttoning in the back. By 1882, buttoned in front. sewn to women’s gowns. princess polonaise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United preto: Portugal. Black. Kingdom. Popular in 1870s, woman’s polonaise prevez: Bulgaria. Bridal veil. dress cut in princess line. priccses nadrág: Hungary. Breeches. princess robe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United priejuoste: Lithuania. Apron. Kingdom. Introduced in 1848, woman’s day dress prieksauts: Lithuania. Apron. cut in the princess line. Buttoned down the entire prievite: Latvia. Belt less than two cm wide and 2-1/2 front and had descending lines of ribbons on the to four m long. sides. Three-quarter length sleeves worn with en- prijuostė: Lithuania. Apron. gageantes. primrose: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Pale yellow. Princess Royal: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, Prince Albert: See frock coat. woman’s deep, flowing mantle trimmed with chenille- Prince of Wales check: The Glen Urquart check. spotted braid or gimp and a light French lace. Prince of Wales jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United princess slip: See princess petticoat. Kingdom. Introduced in 1868, man’s loose reefer Princess Wagram: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, with three pair of buttons. guipure mantilla with a crocheted, scalloped border Prince Oxford: Trade name for Dan River’s oxford cloth. and fringe. Prince Rupert: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1896, princesse: See principessa. a woman’s figure-fitting, velvet jacket worn open at principessa: Italy. Princess line dress. the front. Resembled a Louis XV coat. prine: Ireland. Gaelic word for pin used to fasten prince’s sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United clothes. Kingdom. Man’s sleeve with a pointed gore in the prine feilidh: Scotland. Kilt pin. Traditionally worn seam at the wrist. fastened to lower right corner of front flap. prince’s stuff: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Prinzesskleid: Germany. Princess line dress. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Black wool, plain weave Priora: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, double talma fabric. Used for clerical garb, legal gowns, and set on a pointed yoke and collar. Trimmed with a very mourning. rich fringe and eight rows of narrow velvet. princesa: Spain. Princess line dress. pristelca: Bulgaria. Richly embroidered apron. princess: Close fitting style of garment with no horizon- pristídha: Greece. Heavily pleated skirt worn over the tal seam from shoulder to floor. podhiá. Princess Augusta poke: Directoire and First Empire (1790– privy coat: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Coat of de- 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1813, woman’s poke bonnet of fense worn under an outer garment. white satin with a white feather that fell on the left side. procardium: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Worn by both Tied with a large bow under the right cheek. genders, wrapped garment made from a rectangu- princess dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- lar length of fabric wound around the body. In the dom. Popular around 1865, a woman’s dress cut in woman’s version, it sometimes had suspenders. one piece (without a waistband). Possibly names for Sometimes worn belted. Princess Alexandra. prœd: United Kingdom. Old English word for thread. Princess Elizabeth lilac: Directoire and First Empire prokandaka: India. Pearl necklace. (1790–1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Lavender. prosaponcho: Peru. Fine cotton poncho worn folded : Very delicate variation of duchesse lace. around the neck and thrown back over the shoulders. Princess of Wales bonnet: Direc- próstena: Greece. Everyday apron. toire and First Empire (1790–1815 provincial bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Named for Princess Car- C.E.). Woman’s fine straw bonnet trimmed simply. oline in 1812. Round crowned provincial rose: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Shoe woman’s bonnet with the brim rosette. turned up on one side of the front. prsluk: See podkošulja. princess paletot: Crinoline (1840– prsten: Croatia, Czechoslovakia, and Serbia. Finger ring. 1865 C.E.). A girl’s woolen paletot prudent: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s winter featuring a mock military style wrap. overcoat and trimmed with cord- pruik: Holland. Periwig. princess paletot ing and military-cut pockets. prune: Dull dark purple. pullover 239 prune de Monsieur: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Puffärmel: Germany. Puffed sleeves. France. Shade of purple. puffjacke: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Germany. Lit- prune Dumas: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in erally “puffed jacket,” short man’s coat, either wide 1883, dark blue violet. or narrow in cut, worn for riding. prunell: Heavy, twill weave cashmere. pug: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration (1660– prunella: 1. Twill or satin weave, worsted dress fabric 1700 C.E.). Short, hooded cape, usually of silk or that is yarn-dyed. 2. Popular in 18th and 19th centu- velvet. ries, a wool or blend fabric with a smooth surface. pug hood: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Woman’s Prussian collar: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle short hood made with pleats from a single point at (1865–1890 C.E.). Man’s stand-fall collar with the the back of the head. Usually black with a colored points nearly meeting in the front. lining that folded back to frame the face. Tied under przedna: Poland. Darning thread. the chin with a ribbon that matched the lining. pshente: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Double crown, pugaree: Version of the turban originating in India that symbol of the pharaoh. began as a form of protection from the sun. Evolved psila: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Cloth with one side into a scarf-like hatband worn around the crown of a shorn. straw hat. See also pagri. psyche knot: Knot of hair worn at the nape of the neck puggaree: See pugaree. styled after the hairstyle of Psyche from Greek my- puggerie: See pugaree. thology. puggree: See pugaree. pteruges: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Soldier’s pad- pugovico: Russia. Button. ded shirt with dags or tabs at the waist and sleeve. puhaszárú csizma: Hungary. Lightweight, soft, calf- pu fa‘amau: Samoa. Buttonhole. high, black boots. pu fu: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Woman’s ‘pujok: Korea. Amulet. plain surcoat. puk: Korea. Bobbin. pu zi: China. Introduced in 1391, insignia badges used puka: Ecuador. Red. to denote rank. puka kui kele: United States of America. Hawaii. Nee- pua: Borneo. Blankets. dle slot of a sewing machine. puahi: New Zealand. Maori. A cloak of the skins of puka pihi: United States of America. Hawaii. Button- white haired dogs. hole. pualena: United States of America. Hawaii. Yellow. pukaha: New Zealand. Maori. A very rough cape. puamoamoa: United States of America. Hawaii. A frock pukai: United States of America. Hawaii. Lime bleach coat. for the hair. puava: Samoa. Ribbon. puke: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Color puce or a puce: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Color of amethyst. common fabric used in making hose and gowns. 2. 2. Purplish brown. 3. Croatia and Serbia. Button. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Dirty brown color. puch’ae: Korea. Folding fan. puke pakeke: United States of America. Hawaii. Pock- puckery: See pugaree. etbook. pudding cap: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Padded puki: United States of America. Hawaii. Boot. roll or cap worn by children to prevent injury when pukta: Korea. Red; crimson. falling. pukupuku: See pauku. pudding head: See bourrelet. pulakabandha: See badhani. pudding sleeve: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to puletasi: Samoa. Woman’s long, loose, puff-sleeved Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s long, loose dress. sleeve, often seen on a clergyman’s gown. puljka: See puce. pudding-basin cut: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). pullicat: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian United Kingdom. Man’s hairstyle where the hair was (1750–1790 C.E.). Cotton fabric for handkerchiefs shaved on the neck and temples, leaving a skullcap from Pulicat. of hair on top. Popular in Italy, United Kingdom, and pullings out: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Inner lining France, but never in Germany. of a garment when it was visible through slashes, puertas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Buckles. cuts, or panes. puff: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Thin Pullman slipper: Soft bedroom slipper that folds flat gore of fabric in the back of the waistband of men’s for storage. breeches or trousers. Sides of the gore had laces to pullo: Peru. Thick, coarse baise blanket. draw the pants tight, creating a puff in the gore. pull-over: Garment that pulls on over head. puff ring: Hollow finger ring. pullover: Italy and Spain. Sweater. 240 Pullover

Pullover: Germany. Sweater. punto de malla: Spain. Embroidered netting. p’ullu: See phullu. punto de oro llano: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). pulo: Tibet. Leather. Spain. Couched gold threads. pulou: Samoa. Hat or headgear. punto de tallo: Spain. Stem stitch. pulou fa‘afao: Samoa. Helmet. punto erba: Italy. Stem stitch. pulou pepe: Samoa. Baby’s bonnet. punto gothica: Reticella needle lace. p’ulrannel: Korea. Flannel. punto in aria: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restora- pulrausu: Korea. Blouse. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Early form of needle lace. pulsera: See brazalete. punto llano: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. A Pulswärmer: See Fausthandschuh. stitch used in couching gold thread. Pultney cap: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular punto neve: Italy. Snowflake pattern in lace. in 1760s, a woman’s indoor cap wired up with a dip punto passato: Italy. Satin stitch. in the center. Sometimes had two lappets in the rear. punto real: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Literally Pumphose: Germany. Breeches. “royal stitch,” used to make raised, concentric curves. pumpkin: Dull, deep orange. punto tagliato: Italy. Cutwork. pun alai: Borneo. A huge yellow bead. punto tagliato a fogliani: See gros point de Venise. punch: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1884, punto tirato: Italy. Drawn work. color of blue gray smoke. puoga: Lithuania. Button. punchetto: Italy. A needle lace densely worked in a pupu hoaka: United States of America. Hawaii. Shell double knotted buttonhole stitch. bracelet. puncocha: Czechoslovakia. Coarse laced peasant’s shoe. pupu lauoho: United States of America. Hawaii. Top- punge: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Purse. knot. punjam: See panjam. purdah: India. Cotton cloth for curtains. punjang: See hwajang. purée de pois: See oseille cuite. punk: (1970–1980 C.E.). Street fashion characterized by pureke: See pukaha. use of leather, chains, torn clothes, and brightly col- purfle: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Border of trim. ored exotic hairstyles. puri: India. Bobbin. puño: Ecuador, Spain. Cuff. Puritan: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, woman’s puño ajustado: Spain. Sleeve wristband. full-circle wrap with a quilted lining. Trimmed with puño doble: Spain. French cuff. broad satin galloon and two rows of velvet ribbon. In punta: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Point that rein- France, called la Puritana. forced a ribbon or cord used for lacing. Later the Puritan bonnet: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United word meant the entire lace. Kingdom. Woman’s small, flat, crownless bonnet with punta roma: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Blunt a point in the front. Trimmed with lace or an aigrette. toe of a shoe. puriya: India. A cloth stuffed with cotton. puntada limeña: Ecuador. Closed double chain stitch. purki: Bulgaria. Smock embroidered with a tightly puntada recta: Spain. Literally, a . worked stripe. puntas: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Toes of purl: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). 1. Pleat in a ruff. 2. shoes. Small edging lace. puntilla: Spain. Lacework. purnellow: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late puntilla de Venecia: Spain. Venetian lace. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Worsted fabric. punto: Italy. Point or stitch. purpaidh: Ireland. Gaelic word for purple. punto a feston: Italy. A looped mesh like point de gaze. purper: See paars. punto a giorno: Italy. Hem stitch. purple: Dye from the Murex brandis. When first col- punto a giorno cordonetto: Italy. Couching stitch. lected, it is yellow and it alters to red then violet with punto a giorno croce: Italy. Cross-stitch. exposure to light. punto a giorno festone: Italy. Buttonhole stitch. purple gown: China. Song dynasty. Gown worn by a punto a giorno indietro: Italy. Backstitch. scholar. punto a gropo: Italy. Knotted buttonhole stitch. purpua: Spain. Purple. punto a maglia quadra: Italy. Term for lacis. púrpura: Portugal. Purple. punto a relievi: Italy. Needle lace with raised details. purpurea: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew word punto de almorafán: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). for purple. Spain. Chain stitch. purpuren: Holland. See paars punto de cruz: Spain. Cross-stitch. purpúreo: Portugal. Purple colored. punto de España: See Spanish needlepoint. purpurfarben: See purpurrot. pyrope 241 purpurowy: See szkarlatny. puuahi: Australia. Maori dogskin cloak made of strips purpurrot: Germany. Purple. of hairless white dogskin. purse: Small bag for carrying money, etc. pu‘ukohukohu: United States of America. Hawaii. purse strings: Drawstrings used on purses. Gray tapa. p’uruda: Korea. Blue. pu‘ukukui: United States of America. Hawaii. Tapa p’urun: Korea. Blue. colored with a dye made from the breadfruit blossom pusher lace: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 and kukui tree bark. C.E.). Introduced in 1813, lace made on the patented puzzola: Italy. Polecat. . Imitation of Chantilly lace. pyajama: See pajama. pushk kurta: Pakistan. Long tunic-like shirt with al- pyjamā: India. At home trousers. most completely embroidered front and cuffs. It was pynn: See preen. worn with full trousers that tapered at the ankles. pyonbal: Korea. Queue. püsküllü: Turkey. Tassels. pyramid style: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- puspapatta: India. A floral fabric, with the pattern ei- dom. Introduced in 1845, woman’s day skirt trim in ther woven in or printed on top. a series of horizontal bands that were wider at the Pussy Willow: Trade name for radium. bottom of the skirt than at the top. pussy-cat bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– Pyramid talma: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn from 1814 to gored silk talma. Seams were covered in a braid. 1818, woman’s bonnet of catskin. Trimmed with nine tabs that reached one third pust: Croatia and Serbia. Felt. down the garment. Embroidered and had a netted pustin: India. A fur-lined coat. fringe. putalya: India. A gold coin necklace of Maharashtra. pyramids: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. putan: Ireland. Gaelic word for button. Introduced in 1858, woman’s day skirt trim of tri- putois: France. Polecat. angular panels of fabric in a color different that the puttee: (1910–1920 C.E.). Spiral bound legging. dress. putting stick: See poking stick. pyrope: Deep red garnet stone.

Q

qabā: Arabia. Rich, sleeved robe with a slit in the front. qibù: China. Varnished cloth. qababand: See qatifah-i-purbi. qigé: China. Patent leather. qabbeh: Palestine. Decorative chest panel. qiladeh dhahab: Palestine. Woman’s gold necklace. qabbet anbar: Palestine. Elaborately embroidered chest qilim: China. Under the Zhengde emperor (r. 1505–1521 panel of a woman’s gown. C.E.), fourth and fifth rank of embroidery on a gown; qadar: India. Long coat. unicorn. qadifeh: Afghanistan. Woman’s long chiffon scarf qinglù: China. Dark green. edged with lace. qirmizi: India. The color carmine. qaftan: 1. Morocco. Jewish woman’s corselet. 2. Pales- qirmizi don: Turkmenistan. Man’s long-sleeved coat. tine. Full-length robe, with or without sleeves. qiú: China. Fur coat. qalansuwa: Arabia. 1. High, miter-like hat. 2. Hood or qladeh: Palestine. Lengthy necklace of chains of figure- cowl. eight silver links in between which are hollow silver q’alaq’awa: Bolivia. Yellowish brown color. balls which suspend coins. qalasuva: Arabia. Persian hat. qladet ‘anbar: Palestine. Amber bead necklace. qalush: Palestine. Man’s cap. qladet morjan: Palestine. Coral necklace. qamha hamra: Palestine. Red and yellow striped silk qladet qrenfol: Palestine. Necklace of four sections of fabric. cloves, beads, corals, and tassels. qamis: Palestine. Man’s long white shirt cut in the Eu- qompi: Peru. Incan finest quality textile. ropean style. quachtli: Aztec. Large, rectangular piece of fabric used qamīs: Arabia. Man’s mid-thigh to ankle-length shirt as medium of exchange. with long or short sleeves. quadricorn hat: Hat with four points or corners. qarawi: Palestine. Fine linen fabric used for veils. quadrille head: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Lap- qasab: Palestine. Silver cord used in fabric. pets embroidered with aces of spades, hearts, dia- qasabiyeh: Palestine. Striped Syrian silk fabric. monds, and clubs. qatifah-i-purbi: India. Plain silk cloth. quail-pipe boot: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United qaz: Palestine. Coarse silk fabric used for women’s Kingdom. Man’s high, soft leather boot which fell coats. softly in wrinkles on the leg. qaziyeh: Palestine. Unlined black or purple silk dura’ah. Quaker chambray: Dan River’s trade name for cotton q’epirina: See phullu. fabric used for children’s clothes. qi: China. Figured silk damask. Quaker collar: Broad, flat collar. qi pao: (1920–1930 C.E.) China. Literally “banner Quaker hat: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late gown,” one-piece gown introduced in 1925. Consid- Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Man’s tricorne with a tall ered a very daring item of dress. crown. qian hua: China. White lead worn as makeup. Quaker skirt: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, small, qiana: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of America. In- lightweight hoop. troduced in 1968 by DuPont, silklike synthetic fabric, qualitie: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Directoire soft and drapey. (1790–1815 C.E.). Coarse tape for binding or strings. qiapàn: China. Uygur or Tajik front-buttoning robe. quan: Vietnam. Trousers.

243 244 quan cao-boi quan cao-boi: Vietnam. Jeans. quilitl: Mexico. Zoque Indian term for the color green. quan cháo lòng: Vietnam. Dirty white trousers. quilted petticoat: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). quan coc: Vietnam. Breeches; shorts. Elaborate petticoat exposed by a front slit in wom- quan con áo-cánh: Vietnam. Underwear. an’s gown. 2. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) and quân ðùi: Vietnam. Shorts. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Undergarment intended quan soóc: Vietnam. Bermuda shorts. to expand the skirt and provide warmth. Made of quàn ta: Vietnam. Vietnamese trousers that are side silk or alpaca. pleated, low crotched, pocketless, and flyless. quimono: See saiote escocês. quan xà-lón: Vietnam. Drawers; undershorts. quintin: France. Fine lawn fabric. quande: Sierra Leone. Russet, cotton cloth. quintise: See cointise. quân-phuc: Vietnam. Military uniform. quiret: Cuirass. quân-phuc ðai-le: Vietnam. . quirk: Clock, as in hosiery. quân-phuc làm viêc: Vietnam. Work uniform. quitasol: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United quartered cap: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Boy’s States. Large fan carried by matrons. 2. See kittysol. cap with flat circular crown on a headband and visor. quitta soll: See kittysol. quat quì: Vietnam. Precious fan. quittesol: See kittysol. qubā: India. Short, fitted coat with sleeves. quizzing glass: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bus- qubpa: Turkmenistan. Jeweled finial worn on the bork. tle (1865–1890 C.E.). Monocle that hung from a neck : Mexico. Woman’s chain. In 1820s, dandies had the monocle affixed to triangular folded outer garment. the head of their cane. May be worn with or without a qulaqça: Iran. Fitted cap. blouse. qumbaz: Palestine. Man’s long-sleeved, calf- or ankle- querpo: Elizabethan (1550–1625 length coat. Open in the center front and worn right C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 over left. C.E.). Spain. Man without a cloak qún: China. Skirt. quechquemitl or outer garment. qungo: Ethiopia. Knee-length rain cloak made of long querpo hood: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- knotted strands of grass. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Woman’s plain soft hood. qúnzi: China. Skirt. queue: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. Braid of quõc-phuc: Vietnam. National dress. hair in the back of a wig. qusak: Turkmenistan. Man’s loosely tied silk girdle. quezote: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Linen qutbah fallahi: Palestine. Literally “village stitch,” jerkin. cross-stitch. quich: Morocco. Undergarment of light material. qutn: United Arab Emirates. Cotton. quiff: United Kingdom. Slang term for man’s hairstyle qutni: See qatifah-i-purbi. where hair is oiled and brushed back from the fore- qutun: See qutn. head. quynh: Vietnam. Ruby. R

ra: Japan. An early fancy gauze weave fabric. radnor: Mercerized cotton upholstery fabric. rab: Poland. Seam. radzimir: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in rabagas bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- 1949, black silk used for mourning. 2. Fine silk or dom. Introduced in 1872. Woman’s small, high- rayon fabric with cross-wise ribs. crowned, small brimmed bonnet that tied under raffia: Straw made from strong palm fiber. the chin in a large bow. Brim turned up all around. rafia: See rofia. Named for Sardou’s satire of the same name (1871). rafraf: Arabia. Back flap on a sabgha. rabanna: Madagascar. Raffia fabric used for draperies. rafugar: India. Needleworker. rabat: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 rafugari: India. Darning stitch embroidery. C.E.) to Charles I and Common- raggiera: Italy. Long hairpins placed in a woman’s hair wealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Man’s to form a halo. turned down collar that fell over Raglan: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, velvet the shoulders. 2. Restoration (1660– shawl lined with quilted satin. Trimmed with rich 1700 C.E.). Linen or lace cravat with guipure lace and long fringe at false yoke and hem. a vertically pleated or gathered fall. raglan boot: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. 3. (19th century). Lingerie orna- Worn in 1850s, man’s soft black leather thigh-high boot ment worn on women’s bodices. worn when hunting. Named for the Crimean general. rabatine: Collar that falls over the raglan cape: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- rabat shoulders like a cape or ruff. dom. Worn from 1857 on, man’s sac, single-breasted rabbi: Short, bib-like collar or ra- overcoat with no vents. Had a type of sleeve, now bat worn by Roman Catholic ecclesiastics. known as the raglan sleeve. Commonly made of wa- rabbit: Very soft, light fur that can be dyed to resemble terproof material. many other furs. raglan : Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United rabot: Vertically pleated muslin stock that fastened in back. Kingdom. Introduced in 1897, man’s covert coat with raccoon: Thick fur with dense light gray under fur and raglan sleeves. long, silver guard hairs tipped in black. raglan overcoat: Gay Nineties (1890– : (20th century). Very bulky overcoat of rac- 1900 C.E.) to present. United King- coon fur. Popularly worn at football games. dom. Introduced in 1898, revival rachdan: Ireland. Gaelic word for tartan plaid worn like of 1850s version of the poncho but a mantle or cloak. with raglan sleeves. Had side vents Rachel cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, wom- that buttoned with two buttons and an’s fitted, wadded cloak that was lined. Trimmed was usually made of waterproof with silk or mohair lace. material. Replaced the mackintosh. racket: Broad wooden shoe. raglan sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 radhanagri: India. Silken fabric made in Rhadha Nagar. C.E.). Worn from 1857 on, sleeve radielfo: (1920–1930 C.E.). Italy. A man’s helmet that that reached up into a point on the was fitted with radio receivers in hinged ear flaps. outer seam where it joined the body radium: Fine, soft, plain weave fabric. of the garment at the neckline. raglan sleeve

245 246 Ragusa guipure

Ragusa guipure: Type of cutwork. randosel: See paenang. raiglin: See rang. Ranelagh mob: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United railroad trousers: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular in 1760s, gauze handkerchief Kingdom. Worn from 1837 to 1850. Men’s vertically folded into triangle worn over the head, tied under striped trousers. the chin. Based on the fashion commonly worn by railway pockets: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United market women. Kingdom. Worn from 1857 on, flat bag worn under ranetz: Russia. Knapsack. the dress in which a woman hid her valuables when rang: India. Transparent muslin. traveling. rangi: India. The process of dyeing. raing: See rang. rank: Iran. Men’s voluminous trousers. rainy daisy skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Walk- rankava: India. A woolen cloth. ing skirt, two to three inches off the ground. Worn by rankavapata: India. A goat hair shawl. women belonging to the Rainy Day Club. rapaki: New Zealand. Maori term for a rainproof kilt. raised work: Any three dimensional detail in lace. Raphael dress: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1859, rajai: See razai. double-skirted dress with a deep square neckline rajaka: See nirnejaka. filled in with lace and insertion. Sleeves had four rajapatta: India. Literally “a silk fit for kings.” puffs and a deep bell cuff. rajata: India. Silver. raploch: Scotland. Coarse, rough homespun fabric. rajferšlus: Bosnia. Zipper. raploch white: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Eliza- rajstopy: Poland. . bethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Coarse undyed wool home- raju: India. A striped cloth. spun. raktambara: India. A red silk. rapolin: Switzerland. Millinery braid. raktani: India. The color red. raquettes: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Raleigh bars: Venetian bars with loose loops at the bot- Flat ornamental braid ends used on different helmet tom edge. cords. ráli: Greece. Good quality, white cotton cloth. rara: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja necklace of wooden cyl- rallaka: India. A girdle. inders covered in gold. ramall: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian ras: France. Short napped fabric. (1750–1790 C.E.). United States of America. Necker- ras de Sicile: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) France. A chief or small shawl worn over the shoulders. brown and white tabby weave silk fabric. ramie: 1. Strong fiber of the Asian ramie plant. Some- ras du more: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late times called China grass. 2. Garment made of ramie. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Made in Ras de St. Maur Ramillies wig: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Popu- and later called radzimir, heavy black silk similar to lar with military men, man’s wig with one or two armozeen. Used for mourning. plaits tied at top and bottom with a black ribbon. rasana: India. A waist ornament. Named in honor of the Battle of Ramillies. After 1780, rash: Smooth textile of silk called silk rash or worsted plait was sometimes turned up and tied in a loop at called cloth rash. the nape of the neck. rasha: 1. Heavy rayon fabric. 2. Japan. Wool felt. ramio: Spain. Ramie. rasi: Swahili. Cape. Ramona cloth: Linen-finished, rasimal: India. A cheap silk fabric. plain weave cotton fabric. raso: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Satin weave ramoneur: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). fabric forming the ground of a figured fabric. 2. Italy. In 1883, color of a Brazil nut. Satin. 3. Spain. Satin. rampoor-chuddar: Romantic raso cinese: Italy. China silk. (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– raso de la China: Spain. China silk. 1890 C.E.). Fine twill weave wool raso de zapatillas: Spain. Slipper satin. shawl from India. raso imperial: Spain. Imperial sateen. rān: Arabia. Leggings. raso liberty: Spain. Art Nouveau silk. ranch pants: Full-length, straight raso muy brillante: Spain. Pane satin. pants. raso piel de angel: Spain. Peau d’ange. randa: Guatemala. Hand sewn raso piel de cisne: Spain. Peau de cygne. joining of two pieces of fabric raso piel de seda: Spain. Peau de soie. with embroidered yarns. raso por trama: Spain. Sateen. randas: Renaissance (1450–1550 raso por urdimbre: Spain. Satin. Ramillies wig C.E.). Spain. Insertions. raspberry: Reddish color. redingote du matin 247 rat: 1. Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). A large coil of wire rayure travers: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In over which the hair was combed. 2. Pad worn inside 1893, a silk and wool bengaline with horizontal the hair to make it extend. stripes. rat musqué: France. Muskrat fur. razai: India. Coverlet quilted with cotton. rat-tail: Small, firm, round braid. razao: India. Bed cover. rateen: Woolen fabric like frieze. razsouchal: Bulgaria. Kerchief worn by women as a ratiné: 1. Loosely woven plain weave cotton or wool hat. fabric. 2. See frise. reach-me-down: (1920–1930 C.E.). United Kingdom. ratine lace: Machine made lace similar to Turkish tow- Term for a ready-made clothier. eling. reaf: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). rational: Worn by bishops, a short ornamental vest. United Kingdom. Garment or clothes. A very com- rationals: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United King- mon word. dom. Another name for the popular bicycle knicker- real lace: Handmade tatted lace. bockers worn by women. realce: Ecuador. A leaflike embroidery design. ratmusqué: Italy. Muskrat fur. rebato: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). 1. White lace col- ratna: India. Precious stones. lar wired to stand up around the low necked bodice. ratnajali: India. A net of braid and pearls worn around 2. Brass wired support of a collar or ruff. a woman’s chignon. : Bolivia, Ecuador, and Guatemala. Red woolen ratnakambala: India. A costly shawl from Goa. shawl sometimes draped and used to carry item be- ratnangulia: India. Finger rings studded with precious hind the back like a pack cloth. stones. rebras: Early Gothic (1200–1350 ratnapariksha: India. The art of the appreciation of pre- C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 cious gems. C.E.). Revers on a coat, glove, ratnavali: India. A single string of pearls necklace or undergarment. with gold globules or a jeweled net worn around a recal: Romania. Brown woolen woman’s chignon. cloak. ratnodgrathi tottariyam: India. Scarves with gems wo- Recamier sash: Bustle (1865–1890 ven into them. C.E.). Sash with long purse- raton laveur: France. Raccoon fur. ends ending in tassels. rat’s color: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Dull gray. red: Color of blood or a ruby. rattan: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Geor- red cross gingham: Heavy cot- gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Cane from the East Indian ton fabric with alternating blue palm. and white dyed stripes. Recamier sash : See ratiné. red fox: Red to fawn colored fox Dover Publications rattinet: Woolen fabric, thinner than frieze. fur. râu cam: Vietnam. Beard. red lilac: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). râu dê: Vietnam. Goatee. United Kingdom. Red lavender. râu mép: Vietnam. Moustache. red rippers: See brogans. râu som: Vietnam. Long beard. red russels: See brogans. rawā: India. Veil. redes: Spain. Lace. rawai: Borneo. Woman’s corset of split rattan rings with redicella: Spain. Netting. brass rings threaded on them. redil: Guatemala. Wool spinning raxete: Ecuador and Guatemala. Coarse wool fabric. wheel. ray: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance (1450– redingote: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1550 C.E.). Striped cloth. France. A woman’s long overcoat raye de comtesse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1883, cut to fully cover the bustle. 2. See corded cloth. frock coat. raymond: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Powder blue. redingote à l’amazone: Late Geor- raynes: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Originally from gian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Rennes, a fine linen. Coat cut in the style of a woman’s rayon: See artificial silk. riding habit. rayon taffeta: Taffeta of rayon yarns. redingote du matin: Late Georgian rayonne: France. Name for synthetic fabrics. Replaced (1750–1790 C.E.). Morning gown old name of soie artificielle. cut in the style of a riding cos- redingote rayonné: United States of America. Type of hood. tume. Dover Publications 248 redingote en Backmann

redingote en Backmann: Late Georgian (1750–1790 regine purple: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Deep, intense C.E.). France. Redingote styled after Backmann, first purple. man in Paris to wear a simple outer coat. reink’ot’u: Korea. Raincoat. reed hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. In- reion: See injogyonsa. troduced in 1879, woman’s woven reed hat worn for reister cloak: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- tennis or bathing. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s full- reefer: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Short, double-breasted, length cloak. snug-fitting jacket with a low collar, short lapels, and reitrocke: See puffjacke. no back seam. Sometimes worn as an overcoat. 2. rekaw: Poland. Sleeve. (1930–1939 C.E.). Man’s double-breasted, tweed coat rekawica: Poland. Mitten. with wide lapels and six or eight large buttons. rekawiczka: Poland. Glove. reefer jacket: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Woman’s rékli: Hungary. Blouse worn outside the skirt. Cut to double-breasted blue serge jacket similar to the fit the body. man’s reefer. relevés à la Marie Stuart: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). refafo: Guatemala and Mexico. Underskirt. France. In 1851, woman’s hairstyle with a center refajo envuelto: Guatemala. Woman’s wraparound skirt. part. The mass of hair covered the ears and formed a refajos: Guatemala. Women’s skirts. The most common rouleau in back. color of these skirts is indigo blue. religieuse sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, refajos plegados: Guatemala. Woman’s full skirt with a undersleeve with deep five-inch wristband. drawstring waist. religious petticoat: Charles I and the Commonwealth refirha: Tuareg. A man’s full-cut blouse. (1625–1660 C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s pet- regatta: Sturdy, twilled cotton fabric, usually blue and ticoat embroidered with religious stories. Worn by white striped. Puritan women. regatta faille francais: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, rempli: France. Needle lace with an area of buttonholing. soft, flexible, rich fabric. ren: 1. China. Small flap on the chao fu used to cover the regatta shirt: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- fastening. 2. Vietnam. Lace. dom. Man’s striped cambric shirt for summer out- Renaissance embroidery: Cutwork embroidery. door wear. Front was cut plain. Renaissance lace: Modern lace with woven tape motifs. regatta shirting: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Cotton fab- See also Battenburg lace. ric with narrow colored stripes. renard: France. Fox fur. regence: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1889, rendalo: Portugal. Lacework; lace trimmed. silk fabric with a ribbed satin face. 2. See charvet. rendi: India. A tattered garment. regency cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 rendilhado: Portugal. Lacy. C.E.). Introduced in 1813, white satin cap trimmed renforcée: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. Intro- with satin rouleaux and ostrich feathers. duced in 1685, strong silk fabric. regency hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 rennrocklein: Elizabethan (1500–1625 C.E.). Germany. C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s fur hat with a Literally “racing doublet,” a doublet with tails longer belled crown, turned up brim, and trimmed with a than 14 cm. Worn almost exclusively by nobility as gold hatband, cord, and tassel and a feather. part of the jousting outfit. Popular later in the middle regency mantle: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 class. C.E.). Introduced in 1813, black mantle with a small renque: Mexico. Netlike weave created by the Zoque cape and a high collar. Trimmed with black tassels Indians. and a side silk band edged in cording that trimmed reowe: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). the outer edges of the garment. United Kingdom. Fabric piece used interchangeably regency wrapper: Directoire and First Empire (1790– as a rug or blanket, perhaps even as a cloak. Believed 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1813, trained, long sleeved to have been of a shaggy texture. wrap that laced up the front with a silk cord. It had a rep: Fabric similar to poplin with heavier weft yarn. band of velvet or sealskin around the edges and had rep bluet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– a pointed collar. 1890 C.E.). France. Dark blue silk rep patterned with regenjas: Holland. Mackintosh. cornflowers in black satin. regenmantil: See kabanica. rerebrace: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Plate armor regina: Fine, lightweight, twill weave, cotton fabric. for the upper arm. Regina: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, embroi- reseau: France. Ground for lace. dered taffeta mantle with a deep knotted fringe. 2. réseau rosacé: France. Elaborate hexagon-shaped nee- Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1867, pink lilac color. dle ground used for lace. Rigoletto mantle 249 : France. Grayish green. ribine: See lipine. resi: See kiski. ribon: Korea. Ribbon. resille: France. Net or hood for the hair. ricamo: Italy. Embroidery. restagno d’oro: Italy. Patterned brocade with a gold weft. ricamo in bianco: Italy. Household linen embroidery. reta: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Hairnet made ricamo in bianco a reticello: Italy. Embroidered netting. of knotted silk of gold threads with pearls or other ricamo in bianco ad intaglio: Italy. Cutout embroidery. gems woven in. ricamo in bianco inglese: Italy. Broderie anglaise. rete: Italy. Net of all kinds. rice net: Coarse cotton net. reticella: Italy. Fine, snowflake-like lace. First form of rice powder: Face powder made of pulverized rice. needlepoint lace. ricebraid: Braid made to resemble grains of rice strung reticella lace: See reticella. lengthwise. reticello: See drawn work. Richilieu embroidery: France. Type of cutwork. reticulated headdress: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). ricinium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Square veil Woman’s style involving wearing crespine over hair worn by women when offering sacrifices. padded at sides and veil falling to shoulders. rick-rack: Colored zigzag braid. reticule: Romantic (1815–1840 ridā: Arabia. Man’s mantle. C.E.) to present. A woman’s small Ridgeway buckle: United States of America. Wide, purse, generally with short strings gold-plated, commercial belt buckle adopted for or cords, worn carried in the hand Army use with a webbing belt. or draped over the wrist. ridicule: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 retículo: Spain. Reticule. C.E.) to Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular name for retrós: Portugal. Twisted sewing reticule from 1800 to 1850. See also reticule. 2. Bustle silk. (1865–1890 C.E.). A large exterior pocket. revers: Turned-back edge of a riding dress frock coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). reticule coat, waistcoat, or bodice. United Kingdom. Popular in 1820s, man’s frock coat Dover Publications revers en pelerine: Crinoline with a deep collar and large lapels. (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. The pleats, folds, riding habit: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Wom- or trim that extended from the shoulders to the waist an’s riding costume consisting of a coat and waist- on a woman’s gown. In the 1850s, they were renamed coat cut like men’s garments. Worn with a skirt bretelles. called a petticoat. 2. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). rhabdoskidophoros: Cane with a hidden fan. In 1780, the skirt developed a train. 3. Directoire and rhadames: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1883, First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Gown resembling a soft satin with a diagonal grain. the earlier riding habit was worn. Trimmed with rhason: Worn by Eastern Church clergy, long loose gar- brandenburgs. 4. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1840, ment similar to the cassock. habit consisted of a jacket and a long trained skirt. In Rhea: India. Chinese ramie or China grass. 1860, skirt was cut to fit over the saddle pommel. 5. rheno: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Women began to wear trou- Hoodless mantle. sers under the habit skirt. 6. (1890–1899). C.E. Skirts rhinegraves: See petticoat breeches. were made without trains. rhodophane: France. Glass fabric made by Colombet. riding hoop: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United Used for hats, bags, jackets, and accessories. Kingdom. Small hoop petticoat worn by women rholwani: South Africa. Ndebele married woman’s very when riding. large collar made from twisted grass and encrusted riese: See flieder. with beads. rifeling: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). riabhach: Ireland. Gaelic word for yellow gray. United Kingdom. Sandal or boot of rawhide. Prob- riband: Ribbon band. ably worn by rural people. ribbed crepón: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, rift: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United a finely ribbed light woolen fabric. Kingdom. Piece of material used as a cloak, a curtain, ribbed satin: Ribbed fabric with satin face. or a veil. ribbon corset: (1900–1910 C.E.). Introduced in 1904, a riga: Nigeria. Large loose robe with elaborate embroi- lightweight corset for sport or relaxation. dery. ribean: Ireland. Gaelic word for ribbon. rigolette: Lightweight, scarf-like women’s head covering. ribete: Bolivia. Woven tubular edge on some llijllas and Rigoletto mantle: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United ak’sus. Kingdom. Woman’s knee-length caped mantle of ribfluweel: See manchester. satin and edged with fur. 250 rigona rigona: Nigeria. Robes. roanne: France. Cotton and linen fabric used for sheeting. riha: Bangladesh. Scarf with a fringe of tassels. robe à l’américaine: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). rijnsteen: See soort bergkristal. France. Simple style of dress epitomized by the im- Rikan cha: Japan. A shade of tea color named for the migrants to the United States of America. actor Arashi Rikan. robe à l’anglais: Late Georgian rilling: See riveling. (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Rimini: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, taffeta Gown that was shaped and fit- cloak trimmed with a double taffeta ruche. ted in the body. Curved down ring buckle: Buckle made of two rings. in the center front and center ring cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, sheer black back. Skirt opened down the wool fabric similar to nun’s veiling, so delicate that center front and revealed the width of fabric can be drawn through wedding ring. underskirt. ring purse: See miser’s purse. robe à la circassienne: Late Geor- ringetje: Holland. Ringlet. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. rinrin wallka: Ecuador. A beaded, shoulder-length neck- Polonaise variation with short, lace. funnel-shaped sleeves, and ori- robe à l'anglais : Japan. Silk damask. ental trim. See also photospread rio verde: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in robe à la française: Late Geor- (Women's Wear). 1862, lightweight pardessus with pagoda sleeves. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Edges trimmed with ruffles. Inspired by the grand habit, this consisted of three Rio Verde: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, mantilla pieces: a sack back gown with a fitted bodice front, a trimmed with broad bands of velvet, falls of lace, and long petticoat with side hoops, and a stomacher. knotted fringe. robe à la Joconde: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. ripple cloth: Wool dress fabric with long silky hair on Introduced in 1817, long gown open over a petticoat. one side. See also zibeline. Fastened on the left shoulder with a rose. Ripplesheen: Plain weave cotton fabric with faint robe à la levantine: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). corded effect. France. Loose, shaped, fur-trimmed, short-sleeved Ripplette: Trade name for type of seersucker. gown worn over undergown. ripresa: Italy. Dart. robe à la polonaise: See robe a la Reine. riso sopra riso: Elaborate gold cloth. robe à la prêtesse: See robe torque. Ristori shawl: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, robe à la Reine: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. woman’s shawl made from alternating stripes of Popular from 1776 to 1787, bodice with an attached moiré antique and velvet. Had a pointed yoke and overskirt swagged back to show the underskirt. was trimmed with a crochet-headed fringe. Bodice featured a pin in the center covered by a bow ritssluiting: Holland. Zipper. below which the bodice was open to show the vestee ritterhute: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. beneath. Gown was short sleeved and elaborately Man’s low crowned barrette frequently made of felt decorated. and covered in velvet or silk. robe à la Turque: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). riveling: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). France. Very tight bodice with trained over-robe Shoe of raw hide with hair on the outside. with funnel sleeves and a collar. Worn with a rivière: France. Necklace of precious stones, usually of draped sash. several strands. robe à plis gironnés: See robe gironnée. rivieres de jais: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, bands robe anglaise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Child’s dress. of threaded jet beads. robe de cérémonie à la française: Late Georgian (1750– riza: 1. Bulgaria. Shirt. 2. Czechoslovakia. Long gar- 1790 C.E.). France. Sack dress worn with hoops and ment. 3. Russia. Chasuble. elaborately trimmed. Allowed at court for all but the rizá: Greece. Scarf. most formal occasions. rizarato: Greece. Bride’s sigouni. robe de chambre: Charles I and Commonwealth (1625– rjsó: Peru. Tribal man’s silver disc worn hanging from 1660 C.E.). France. Gown worn to the chambers of the a pierced nose. royal apartments. ro: Japan. A kind of silk gauze. robe de chez: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). House dress roach: Slang for hair brushed up from forehead. commonly worn with an ornamental apron. roafia: See rofia. robe de commune at ancienne guise: Renaissance roanes: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Made in (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Ordinary clothes. Rouen, fine wool cloth. robe de noce: France. Wedding dress. rollo 251 robe de nuit: France. Nightdress. rocc: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Gar- robe de style: France. Bouffant frock with fitted bodice ment, probably a wrap. Sometimes made of fur. and full skirt. rocher: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, rock color. robe déguisée: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. rochet: Charles I and Commonwealth (1625–1660 Elegant garments on the cutting edge of fashion. C.E.). France. Small collarless coat with elbow- robe d’interieur: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). At-home length sleeves slit to armseye. Originally worn by negligee for men. gentlemen, later worn by lackeys and buffoons in robe drapée: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1873, single . skirted dress, usually elaborately trimmed. rock: Sweden. Coat. robe du soir: France. Evening dress. Rock: Germany. Coat; skirt. robe en calecons: Directoire and First Empire (1790– rock and reel: Scotland. The distaff and spindle. 1815 C.E.). Woman’s dress with underdrawers built rocket: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Georgian in and fullness in back of skirt. (1750–1790 C.E.). Woman’s white linen dress. robe gironnée: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. rococo: 1. To be extravagant. 2. Victorian hat. Loose gown with pleats which were stitched in at the rococo embroidery: Embroidery worked with narrow waist and then allowed to hang freely. ribbons. robe longue: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. rodillera: Guatemala. Man’s small woolen blanket, usu- Long robes worn by academics. ally woven in black and white check, worn wrapped robe parée: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. around hips from the waist to the knees. Gown worn for evening events and elaborately rofia: Madagascar. Raffia. trimmed and worn over hoops. roghan: India. A thick pigment applied to fabric, creat- robe princesse: France. Princess line dress. ing encrusted patterns. robe torque: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 roguelo dress: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Introduced in 1803, overdress worn C.E.). Morning dress with a loose back and bias cut wrapped across the body like a Greek robe. By 1810, front. it had evolved into the redingote. See also sack gown. Rohseide: Germany. Tussore silk. robe volante: See robe de chambre. ròibeag: Ireland. Moustache. robes à guille: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, ròin: Ireland. Haircloth. plain-skirted gown with flounces on each side of ròin-aodach: Ireland. Haircloth. the center. Had a border on the sleeves and skirt roinne-bhaidhe: Ireland. Gaelic word for haircloth. flounces. ròinn-léine: Ireland. Hairshirt. robes de fantaisie: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). roisean: Ireland. Gaelic word for the train of a skirt. France. Gown worn without a hoop. rojario: Korea. Catholic rosary. robes en calecon: First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). France. rojo: Spain. Red. Woman’s very tight dress worn with only one pet- rojo Congo: Spain. Congo red. ticoat underneath it. rok: Holland. Kirtle. See also buis. Robespierre collar: Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.). High, rokechi: Japan. Wax resist dyeing. turned over collar commonly worn with a frilly jabot roketsu: Japan. Wax dyeing. and stock. Named for the French statesman. rokk: Hungary. Lined, black broadcloth, sleeved coat robijn: Holland. The gemstone ruby. with pockets, and a fur collar. Reaches below the robin: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– waist. 1890 C.E.). Broad flat trim used on gowns around the rokkr: Norway. Old Norse word for coat. neck and down the bodice front. It was sometimes roklengte: Holland. Hemline. also used down edges of open overskirt. Roko cha: Japan. A shade of tea color named for an robin front: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- actor. dom. Bodice trimmed with robins from shoulders to rokoja: Romania. Skirt. waist point. rokolya: Hungary. Homespun woolen skirt with verti- robings: See robin. cal stripes in red and blue or red and black. Robinson hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 roll collar: Standing turnover collar; a shallower ver- C.E.). United Kingdom. Silk hat with a narrow brim. sion of the shawl collar. rôbo: See ankanjo. rolled hem: Narrow hem made by rolling edge of fabric robótka: Poland. Needlework. and slipstitching in place. : Germany. Coat. rollers: See roll-up stockings. rocal: Ireland. Gaelic word for coarse clothing. rolling stockings: See roll-up stockings. rocana: India. The color yellow. rollo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Roundlet. 252 roll-up breeches

roll-up breeches: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early ropa de estado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United Kingdom. Men’s State gown. breeches that buttoned at the knee and were worn ropa larga: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Long with roll-up stockings. gown. roll-up stockings: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early ropa rozagnte: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United Kingdom. Long Trailing gown. men’s stockings worn pulled up over the knee of the ropilla: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Doublet breeches and then rolled down. with snug-fitting basques and hanging sleeves. rollups: See roll-up stockings. roquelaure: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). 1. Large rom: Laos and Thailand. Umbrella. caped overcoat, named for the Duc de Roquelaure. 2. romagnuolo: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Italy. Heavy cloak with two small shoulder capes. Coarse cloth used by country folk. roquet: See rochet. romaine: Sheer, basket weave, silk fabric. rosa: Palestine. Bleached silk fabric woven mainly in romaine crepe: Heavy sheer crepe. Majdal and Gaza. romall: See ramall. ròsach: Ireland. Rose red. Roman cutwork: Openwork embroidery outlines in rosadimoi: See ras du more. purl stitches. rosado: Spain. Rose color. Roman lace: Geometric needlepoint lace. rosalba: (1930–1940 C.E.). Luminous, soft artificial silk. Roman pearl: Type of imitation pearl. Rosaline: 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, man- Roman sandal: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Fashionable tilla with plain body and box-pleated skirt. Trimmed sandals introduced in 1817. with ostrich plumes, gauze ribbon, and lace. 2. A Roman stripe: Contrasting colored stripes. Belgian bobbin lace. Romeo: Man’s house slipper. Rosamond: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, shawl rompers: 1. (1910–1920 C.E.). United States of America. cut in one yard half circle. Made of velvet sewn to Child’s one-piece, short-sleeved, short-legged suit. tulle with sections of the velvet cut away. Had heavy Bottom of leg gathered with elastic. 2. (1980–1989 corded fringe. C.E.). Adult woman’s version of child’s romper, usu- rosaniline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Color name for ally with long legs and a large collar. first aniline dye. roncadoras: Peru. Spurs. rosario: See lei kolona. rond: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 rosato: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Pinkish C.E.). Sausage-shaped pad over which women built shade of red. their hair. Rose: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, silk robe à rondastakken: Norway. Woman’s striped long skirt. lev. Had plain underskirt, tartan plaid upper skirt, : 1. Round, flat bead. 2. See roundel. sleeves, waist, and lappets. Trimmed with bows. rondz: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Decorative rose: Dull shade of soft red. discs. Rose de parnasse: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. rong: India. A muslin. Color name for cyclamen pink. róngbù: China. Flannelette. rose des Alpes: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1960, new róngkù: China. . color; very lightest shade of fuchsia. róngmiàngé: China. Suede. rose point lace: Italy. Venetian needlepoint lace. róngyi: China. Sweatshirt. rose sublime: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1861, new rood: Holland. Red. color, ruby scarlet; color of currants. roodbruin: Holland. Russet. rose tendre: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1895, a roons hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). faded pink. Ubiquitous by 1812, woman’s conical hat with rolled Rosebery collar: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United up brim. Kingdom. Introduced in 1894, white linen detach- rooskleurig: Holland. Rose colored. able collar that stood three inches high with rounded ropa: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Woman’s points in the front. Named for Prime Minister, Lord outer garment worn open all the way down the front. Rosebery. It had a standing band collar and sleeves cut full at rosehube: Switzerland. Black lace cap. the top, tapering to the wrist. See also simarra. 2. See rosenadel: Switzerland. Long silver pin used to hold the vestidos. rosehube in place. ropa bastarda: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. rosette: France. Bow. Man’s short gown. Roshanara: Trade name for silk fabric with heavy crepe ropa bordado: Peru. Embroidered clothing. texture. Copied in rayon and wool, rayon and cotton. ruché 253 rosille de soie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Silk roxano: See crepoline. with roses woven into it. Roxburgh muff: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United roskyn: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Squirrel fur. Kingdom. Introduced in 1816, swansdown muff roso: Italy. Red. bound with white satin. Ross: Germany. Pony. roxo: Portugal. Violet. rossetto: Italy. Russet. Royal George stock: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United rossiccio: See rossetto. Kingdom. Popular in 1820s and 1830s, man’s stock of rossignol: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, nightingale black Genoa velvet and satin. color. Royal turquoise: (1930–1940 C.E.). A new color. rot: Germany. Red. royale: 1. Closely woven, ribbed silk fabric. 2. Bustle ro-ten-kechi: See rokechi. (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1889, silk fabric of honeycomb rotonde: 1. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 mesh. C.E.). France. Short circular cape that buttoned down rozah: Palestine. Thick, white silk fabric used for veils, the front. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s dresses, and men’s coats. short circular mantle. rozenkrans: Holland. Rosary. rotonelle: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). ro-zome: See roketsu. Man’s round elbow-length cape. Later, reached to the rozye: See razai. knees or below. ru: China. Zhuong dynasty. Woman’s waist-length, rotonne: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Lower collar narrow-sleeved, fitted jacket. Often worn with of a man’s redingote. checked skirt. Roubaix velvet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, cotton- ruadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for reddish. backed velvet with silk face. ruadh-bhuidhe: Ireland. Gaelic word for auburn. roucha: Bulgaria. Cloth. ruaithne: Ireland. Gaelic word for reddish green. rouge: France. Red. : 1. Colombia. Man’s dark poncho. 2. Ecuador. See Rough Rider shirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). poncho cuadrada. Khaki shirt popularized by Theodore Roosevelt and ruanduàn: China. Soft, satin weave, silk fabric. his Rough Riders in Cuba in 1898. rubaca: See kosulja. rouille: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, rust color. rubái: China. Cream color. rouleaux: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Puffed rubakha: Russia. Embroidered long shirt or shift of tubes of fabric used for trim on dresses and skirts in homespun linen. 1820s. rubakha kosovorotka: Russia. Man’s holiday shirt with round dress: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Crino- side fastening. line (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Dress with ruban: France. Ribbon; hat band. the bodice and skirt made in one. ruban d’amour: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 round gown: See round dress. C.E.). France. Ribbon on which was written republi- round seam: Glove seam. can mottoes, insignia, or cockades. Worn conspicu- roundabout: Short fitted jacket. ously in the middle of the bodice. roundel: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Doughnut- rubas: Czechoslovakia. Short underskirt. shaped roll headdress with a scarf hanging down one rubasca: Romania. Man’s gay-colored loose shirt that side. 2. India. Obsolete term for umbrella. opened on the side of the neck. roundlet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration rubaska: Russia. Shirt. (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Roll of chaperon Rubens bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- of 15th century. dom. Introduced in 1872, woman’s small bonnet with ròusè: China. Yellowish pink. a turned up brim on one side. Trimmed with a bow roussâtre: France. Russet. and a feather. rowel: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Round of yellow Rubens hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. cloth worn by Jews in the 13th century, imposed by Woman’s high-crowned hat with the brim turned up the Lateran Council and the Narbonne Council. on one side. roxalene bodice: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United rubi: Portugal. Ruby, a gemstone. Kingdom. Low-necked bodice with wide strips of rubin: Poland. Ruby. pleated folds around the neck. Front waist ended in rubina: Balkans. Sleeved linen chemise vertically em- a point. broidered on the sleeves and bodice. roxalene sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United rubro: Portugal. Ruby red. Kingdom. Bouffant evening sleeve caught in at the ruby: 1. Intense red. 2. Hard, deep red precious stone. elbow with a fringed band. ruché: France. Ruffle or quilling of lace or ribbon. 254 ruche contraire ruche contraire: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Ruching russell: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. where top edge of folds was turned one way and Black wool fabric first made in Norwich. bottom edge the other way. : Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Fabric simi- ruchika: India. Wristlet. lar to coarse corded alpaca. rudge wash: Kind of kersey made of unwashed fleece. russell satin: See russells. ruedas: Spain. A form of cut and drawn-thread work in russells: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan which the residual threads are pulled into a spoke- (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worsted with a like formation. shiny surface made in Norwich. ruedo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Skirt-foot russet: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Dark brown. (hem) of a woman’s garment. 2. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Reddish brown ruff: Elizabethan (1550–1625 or gray worn by countrymen. 3. Ireland. Coarse C.E.). Starched collar in varied homespun woolen fabric in reddish brown, gray, sizes and forms. In Spain, called or neutral. the gran gola. Worn for most of Russia leather: Calfskin or other leather, bark, or 17th century. chrome tanned. ruffled shirt: Early Georgian Russian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In November, (1700–1750 C.E.) to Crinoline 1859, black velvet mantle lined with deep violet or ruff (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s shirt with mauve quilted silk, trimmed with border of sable. a goffered frill down the front. Frill was as deep as Russian blouse: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United three inches. Originally worn for both day and eve- Kingdom. Woman’s loose knee-length tunic-blouse ning, but after 1840, only worn for evening. worn belted. rug gown: Gown of coarse, shaggy fabric. Russian bonnet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Specific style ruga: Ireland. Gaelic word for rough cloth. of bonnet. ruhbani: Palestine. Dress linen. Russian boot: Boot extending to calf of leg. ruho: See odjeca. Russian braid: Narrow, flat decorative braid. ruiterrock: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Rid- Russian cord: Madras type shirting with heavy corded ing coat. stripes. rukavica: Croatia and Serbia. Glove. Russian crash: Strong, unbleached linen. rukavica sa jednium prstom: Bosnia. Mitten. Russian crepe: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in rullion: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration 1881, coarsely woven mat cloth. (1660–1700 C.E.). Shoe of undressed hide. Russian embroidery: Washable outline embroidery on rūmāl: India. A square cloth rolled diagonally and holland or canvas. wound into a turban. Russian flame: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 rumala: India. A 12-inch square cloth, usually white, worn C.E.). United Kingdom. Red. rolled along the diagonal and folded around the head. Russian jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- Rumanian embroidery: Double sided, outline embroi- dom. Introduced in 1865, woman’s short, sleeveless dery. jacket worn over a sleeved vest. rumi: Palestine. Dress linen. Russian muskrat: Silvery gray fur of Russian muskrat. rum-swizzle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in Russian sergette: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1850, Irish frieze of undyed wool. 1892, a fancy woolen fabric streaked with silk. rumswizzle: Ireland. Imported, undyed wool fabric. Russian suit: (1910–1920 C.E.). United States of Amer- runa: Ecuador. General term for wool garments. ica. Boy’s suit consisting of a bloused tunic top and run-about dress: (1930–1940 C.E.). Shirt-style dress. straight short pants. rundell: See roundel. Russian velvet: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, running shoe: Soft leather shoe with spiked sole. a light wool fabric with a raised, twisted stripe. ruosa secha: Color of old roses. rust: Reddish yellow. rupehri: India. Silver printing. Rüstung: Germany. Armor. rupya: India. Silver. rutí: Greece. White cotton chemise. Rüschen: Germany. Flounce. Rutland poke: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 russ hat: A man’s short crowned straw hat with a C.E.). Introduced in 1813, woman’s small bonnet of drooping brim. wadded satin. Trimmed with swansdown and an russaline: Early Georgian (1700– ostrich feather and tied under the chin. 1750 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750– ruwana: Ecuador and Guatemala. Poncho. 1790 C.E.). Wool fabric from ruzhào: China. Brassiere. russ hat Norwich. ryasa: Russia. Housecoat. Ryūkū-gasuri 255 ryssedamast: Charles I (1625–1660 C.E.). Sweden. Rus- ryssewerk: Charles I (1625–1660 C.E.). Sweden. Russian sian damask. work. ryssekläde: Charles I (1625–1660 C.E.). Sweden. Rus- Ryūkū-gasuri: Japan. An Okinawan silk kasuri. sian cloth.

S

S curve: (1900–1910 C.E.). The sabot pantaloons: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Pan- fashionable woman’s silhouette taloons that were wide at the bottom. created by a corset that pushed sabot sleeve: Sleeve on the gown à la polonaise that fit the upper body forward, the tightly over the elbow. stomach and abdomen flat, and sabotine: (1910–1920 C.E.) Shoes worn by soldiers in the buttocks back severely, creat- World War I. ing an S silhouette. sabretache: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. sa: Korea. Lightweight, silk gauze. Worn by soldiers, leather dispatch bag. 2. Directoire sa din: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Leather bag worn United States of America. Chinese by women. Hawaiian term for an inexpensive sabrina: Neckline similar to the bateau neckline. cotton sateen. Sabrina work: Type of floral applique. saba: Philippine Islands. Fabric sabz moongia: India. Mung bean green. made from the fiber of a banana- sac: See Albert driving-cape. like plant. sac de voyage: France. Traveling bag. sabaa: Egypt. V neckline. sac overcoat: 1. Crinoline (1840– sabada: Nigeria. Diagonally 1865 C.E.). Man’s knee-length striped adire. overcoat with welted front S curve sabai: Thailand. Shoulder wrap. pockets. Had full-cut sleeves. Dover Publications sabaleh: Palestine. Literally “ears 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). of corn,” herringbone stitch used to join seams, ap- Popular in 1860s, overcoat plique, and decorate hems. with a very narrow collar and sábana: 1. Ecuador and Guatemala. Bed covering. 2. Ec- lapels. uador. White cotton cloth, 12 feet 4 inches long, used sacapallay: Bolivia. Embroidery to tie a baby to the mother’s back. . sabanilla: See sábana. saccharine alum: Directoire and sabeldier: Holland. Sable. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). sable: Rarest and most desired kind of marten fur, next Popular cosmetic in 1808. in value to ermine, from the Martes zibelina. Very saccus: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). deep, soft, medium brown fur with blue tint. Hair binding. sablé: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. Cloth sace: Nigeria. Middle-class man’s made of very fine beads. very wide gown with a lined sabong: Laos and Thailand. Lower garment worn by lower edge of white cotton. Buddhist monk. sacha pullki: See yutu. sabot: A wooden shoe popular sack dress: (1950–1960 C.E.). sack dress in a variety of European coun- Woman’s loose, unbelted dress See also photospread tries and distinguished by a strap that hung straight from the (Women's Wear). sabot across the instep. shoulder to the hem. Dover Publications

257 258 sack gown sack gown: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. safira: Portugal. The gemstone sapphire; the color blue. Popular from 1704 to 1835, loose dress that flared at safsarī: Tunisia. Woman’s enveloping loose cotton the bottom. cloak. sack suit: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Loose fitting saga: Lithuania. Button. man’s three piece suit. Coat sleeves hung to the sagathie: See sagathy. fingertips and had high, short lapels. Popular for sagathy: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian sportswear. (1750–1790 C.E.). United States of America. Wool sack-back: (1950–1960 C.E.). The back of a woman’s fabric. blouse or dress that mimicked a Watteau pleat gown sageo: Japan. A cord from which the sword is sus- (robe à l’anglais). pended. sackcloth: Coarse, heavy, unbleached muslin. sagetta: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Casque or helmet. saco: Peru. Long-sleeved jacket. saggum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Military wrap of saco de abrigo: Peru. Western-style sweater. the Roman army. sacred uraeus: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Rearing vi- sagiya guakari: India. A green stuff from Goa. per, the symbol of royalty. saglia: Italy. Twill. sacristan: Restoration (1600–1700 C.E.). Spain. Worn sagmatogene: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). A coarse from 1675 to 1680, light brass farthingale of five or cotton used for stuffing and padding. six hoops. sagos: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Coarse woolen mantle sacque: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Watteau- or blanket. style gown. 2. Loose blouse. sagum: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). sadarā: See kudtā. Goatskin with the hair still on worn draped over the sadaraa: See kurta. shoulder and pinned on the right shoulder. saddle oxford: Oxford type of shoe with a saddle. sahuli: India. A type of lower garment. : (1950–1960 C.E.). saia: 1. See aba. 2. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Italy. Two-colored oxford shoe. Light fabric with combed wool weft or warp. sadeti: Ethiopia. Eight cubit gar- saiat: Morocco. Jewish woman’s petticoats. ment given to the mother of the saider: India. Short coat. saddle shoe bride by the groom. saie: See sagum. sadi: India. A kind of sari. sail cloth: Heavy canvas. sadiaka: Madagascar. Skirt. : Small, stiff, brimless cap. sadlo: India. A Gujarati woman’s wrap, worn over a sailor collar: Collar with square back and V-shaped petticoat and blouse in the manner of a sari. front. saekduresu: See charuot. sailor suit: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- saenggosa: Korea. Raw silk fabric. dom. Suit for young boys based on the dress of the safa: India. A freshly wound turban. French and English sailors. It had a square collar safadiyeh: Palestine. Large, yellow and black striped, trimmed with a narrow white braid. The version silk veil that is five meters long. for girls developed with a pleated skirt instead of safari jacket: Belted, single-breasted, hip-length jacket trousers. with a notched collar, patch pockets, and elbow- sailor’s tie: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United length or full-length sleeves. Kingdom. Popular way to tie a man’s tie showing safed: India. The color white. vertical borders on the sides. Particularly fashionable safeguard: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Early in the 1890s. Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Woman’s overskirt worn sainre: Ireland. Gaelic word for reddish purple. when horseback riding to protect the clothes from Saint Etienne velvet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1874, dirt. Sometimes in the shape of an apron. 2. Man’s a lightweight cotton backed velvet with a silk nap. colored apron, worn by bakers, etc. 3. Swathing band Saint Gall lace: Imitation Venetian lace. for a baby. Saint Martin’s lace: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to safety skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, a woman’s Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. riding skirt which could be opened up the back while Cheap copper braid lace. in the saddle and fastened again when the rider dis- Saint Omer: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- mounted. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worsted saffeh: Palestine. Woman’s headdress from Ramallah. fabric. saffier: Holland. The gemstone sapphire. saione: See giacchetto. saffron: Reddish yellow. saiote: Portugal. Jupon. saffron shirt: See léine. saiote escocês: Portugal. Kilt. samt 259 sairpaich: India. A cluster of jewels set in gold or silver salt-box pocket: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 and worn on the turban. C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular name for a man’s sajás: See kaváði. rectangular flapped waistcoat. sakala: India. Terra-cotta red. salteh: 1. Egypt. Short coat often of velvet or broadcloth sakallat: See suclat. and lavishly embroidered. 2. Iran. Short jacket. sakayaki: Japan. The tonsured part of a man’s head. salto de cama: Spain. Dressing gown; negligee. sakete: Samoa. Skirt. sālū: India. A kind of odhni. See also pomaco. saki: Nigeria. Pile cloth woven in Ijebu-Ode. salūkā: India. Woman’s shaped shirt. sakko: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Germany. Man’s salura: India. A fine quality red muslin, usually embroi- single-breasted, full-length coat that reached from dered or brocaded. shoulder to hip without a waist seam. salvar: Turkey. Woman’s extremely full, ankle-length sakkos: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Pointed cap with tassel trousers worn under the gomlek. trim. It had a small front brim. Salvation Army Lassie bonnet: Black straw or felt bon- sakma: See kabanica. net lined with dark blue silk. It tied with silk ties. sako: Bosnia. Jacket. salwar: India. Very full trousers cut extra long and saktapar: India. A sari with a checkerboard design. banded at the ankle. šal: See marama. salwar-kameez: India. Woman’s outfit of salwar and şal kuşak: Turkey. Shawl. tunic. salade: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Restoration sám ánh: Vietnam. Iron gray. (1660–1700 C.E.). Helmet with a low round crown. sám bac: Vietnam. Pearl gray. salaka: Madagascar. Loincloth. Sam Browne belt: (1910–1920 C.E.). United States of Salamanca: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, wom- America. Worn by World War I army officers, a an’s yoked wrap. In back, the skirt was box-pleated; wide, brown leather belt with a narrow strap that in front, plain. It had a deep lace fall at the skirt and passed over the right shoulder. It was used to carry yoke edges. a pistol. salampe: See pebasa. sám ðõm: Vietnam. Flea-bitten gray. salampy: See kisaly. samaksika: India. The cloak of Buddhist monks. salapok: Borneo. Skull-cap made of rattan or pandanus. : Lady’s jacket like the English sacque. salara: India. Native cotton, plain weave fabric. samasama: Samoa. Yellow. salari: India. Handwoven, cotton fabric. samasmiyeh: Palestine. Gaza man’s turban patterned salem shahī: India. Embroidered slippers with gold or red and yellow. Worn with a skull cap. silver threads. sambatsi: Nigeria. Red and black weather sandals. salembaree: India. Coarse, heavy cotton fabric. sambelatra: Madagascar. An unstitched body wrap that salempoory: India. Kind of chintz. See also salempore. opens in the front. salempora: 1. See salempoory. sambhal: India. Plain weave, cotton fabric. salempore: 1. United Kingdom. Cotton fabric. 2. See sambu’ bongi: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja man’s sleeping palempore. sarong. salempury: See salempoory. samghati: India. 1. Gown. 2. Buddhist monk’s double salendang: Cotton fabric. cloak. salim shahi: Pakistan. Worn by both genders, shoes with samit: See samite. long curled toes. The right and left shoes are identical. samite: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Rich silk fabric salisbury: United Kingdom. White woolen fabric. with gold thread woven in. Silk warp and weft were salla: India. Cotton fabric. supported by a wire that was finely woven into the : See salade. fabric. sallo: India. Plain weave, cotton fabric that is always samittum: See samite. dyed red. samjak norigae: Korea. Accessory with three pendants. salloo: Red twill weave cotton used in India but made samo: Korea. Fez-like, black silk gauze hat worn by in United Kingdom. high-ranking officials. salmah: See simlah. sampot: Cambodia. Length of silk worn wrapped around salmā-sitārā: India. Gold or fancy silver lace embroi- the waist, then drawn up in front between the legs, dered with sequins. giving the effect of the wearer wearing trousers. salmon: Reddish red yellow. sampour: Java. Scarf. salopette: France. Overalls. samson: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, a grass salovana: Madagascar. Woman’s cotton body wrap. green. salta: See damer. samt: Bosnia. Velvet. 260 Samt

Samt: Germany. Velvet. sanjharavau: India. A type of red cloth. Samt gerippt: Germany. Ribbing. sankha: India. Mother-of-pearl. samurai-ebosi: Japan. A warrior’s ebosi. sankhavalaya: India. Bracelet made of pearls. samyt: See samite. sankla: India. A thick chained anklet. sana: India. Hemp cloth. sanmai-gusi: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. A set of šanāfilō: Ethiopia. Colored cotton shorts ornamented three hair combs made of tortoiseshell, metal, or with linear patterns. rubber. They were worn on three sides of a woman’s sanasati: India. General term referring to the dress of hairknot. farmers and weavers. sannaha: India. Mail coat or quilted cotton coat. sanbaf: India. A very thin muslin from Bengal. sans-culottes: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 sanbenito: 1. Robe of sackcloth worn by penitents. 2. C.E.). In France, this term referred to those who wore Robe of yellow or black with painted designs worn trousers. This term separated them from the aristoc- by penitents during the Inquisition. racy and later referred to all patriots. sancaq: Iran. Brooch. sansflectum crinoline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). sand crepe: Crepe with sandy or grainy surface. United Kingdom. Introduced in 1860, washable cage sandaal: Holland. Sandal. crinoline. sandal: 1. Open shoe, often with slashed upper. 2. Sole santipur cloth: India. Fine. Handwoven, cotton fabric of shoe strapped to foot. 3. Strap for holding shoe on embroidered with floral designs. foot. santon: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Popular in Sandale: Germany. Sandal. 1820s, colored silk cravat worn with a small ruff. sandale: France. Sandal. sanubapha: India. A superior type of muslin. sandali: India. The color of sandalwood. sanyan: Nigeria. Native silk cloth woven by the Yoruba sandália: Portugal. Sandal. and used for special occasions. sandalias: Guatemala. Sandals that cover the foot com- sapaea: See kapa ea. pletely. sapara: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s lightweight gown worn sandalium: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Leather sole worn over the buba. It is embroidered at the neck. strapped onto foot by women. It had a leather upper sapata: Portugal. Shoe. to protect toes. sapato: Portugal. Shoe. sandalo: Italy. Sandal. See also zoccolo. şapcă: Romania. Cap. sandalon: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Sandal. sapeiro: See kapa ea. sandals à la greque: Directoire and First Empire (1790– sapka: 1. See kapa. 2. Russia. Cap. 1815 C.E.). France. Sandal with a leather sole and sapog: Russia. Shoe. thongs of leather or ribbon. Worn laced to the top of sapogi: Russia. Leather boots. the heel. sapphire: 1. Rich, transparent blue precious stone. 2. sang chau: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of Tone of blue. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a dark maroon saptaki: India. A seven stringed girdle. or black double woven fabric. saput: Indonesia. A brocade textile worn over the kam- sangati: India. Quality, handwoven muslin. ben. sangbok: Korea. Mourning clothes. sar: See qatifah-i-purbi. sanghati: India. The loincloth of Buddhist monks and sarafan: 1. Russia. Full skirt of rich brocade. Part of nuns. national dress of Russian peasant women. 2. Scandi- sanghhati: Laos. Doubled upper robe worn by Bud- navia. Pinafore with a high yoke or bodice. dhist monks. This doubles as a blanket. saraga: See seragu. sangi: India. Silk cloth. Saragossa: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1857, shawl sangkhatti: Thailand. Doubled upper robe worn by with crocheted trim and a deep silk chenille fringe. 2. Buddhist monk. This doubles as a blanket. In 1859, pusher lace shawl with two deep flounces. sanguine: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Scarlet. sarampura: See salempoory. sangyn: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Blood red. saranala: India. A cotton stuff from Sarnala. sania: India. A hempen cloth. sarandrana: Madagascar. Sash. sani-gani: India. A rough hempen fabric. sarasa: 1. Japan. Chintz. 2. Japan. Resist-dyed cotton sanitary ball dress: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). fabric from India. United Kingdom. Woman’s ball dress with a cream sarashi: Japan. Bleached cotton or ramie. or pink underbodice. sarashi nuno: Japan. A white, lightweight cotton fabric sanjaku-obi: Japan. A man’s dress kimono sash. It is similar to cheesecloth. three feet long. sarassang: See sassang. satin de Mai 261 sarata shirting: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in sarong pakolong: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja hooded 1870, linen shirting fabric. cape made of bamboo leaves. saratoga hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in sarpe: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance 1862, girl’s straw hat with a low crown and a turned (1450–1550 C.E.). Man’s decorative collar. down brim. It was trimmed with Solferino velvet : India. Ornament of gold, silver, or jewels that band and short white plume. is worn on the front of the turban. sarawil: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Turkey. Wom- sarsenet: Very fine, soft silk fabric. an’s white pajama-like trousers. sarseneta: Spain. Sarsenet. sarbal: Hebrew. Cloak without an opening on the right sart: Sikkim. Vest. side. By 1200s, used for prayer. sarta: Ecuador and Guatemala. String of pearls. sarbalehon: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Jewish man’s sarto: Italy. Tailor. cloak. saru: 1. Palestine. Embroidery of cypress trees. One of sarcenet: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). the most popular motifs in this country. 2. Hungary. Originally from the Orient, a fine, thin gauze. Boot-like shoe. sarciatus: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coarse wool sarzil: See sarciatus. cloth worn by the lower classes. sassang: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja apron made from the sarcillus: Ecuador. Costume jewelry earrings. leaves of the supar palm. sarde: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, stone gray color. sastre: Spain. Tailor. Sardinian mantle: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 satalian: Coarse, plain weave cotton fabric. C.E.). Worn in 1808, knee-length scarf of thin fabrics sa-tanh: Vietnam. Satin. like net, muslin, etc. with the ends in a knot or rosette. satarra cloth: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, a Sardinian sac: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- lustrous, ribbed wool fabric. dom. Man’s single-breasted sac overcoat with a square satasutra: India. Necklace made of 100 metal wires collar, full sleeves, and tied with a cord and tassel. twisted together. sardius: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Cornelian. satavalika: India. An athraiya worn with several folds. sardonyx: Opaque semi-precious stone with alternating sateen: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1878, brown and white bands. cotton fabric with a satin face. 2. Satin weave fabric sare: Bosnia. Leggings. with floats in the direction of the weft. saredonuka: See kalekonuka. sateen berber: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, plain saree: See sari. sateen. sárena: Greece. Festival apron. sateen paré: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1884, sateen sarga: Spain. Serge. with small, self-colored figure. sargenes: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Ankle-length, satén: Spain. Sateen. white linen overgarment with big sleeves. Worn by satijn: Holland. Satin. bridegrooms and the head of the house during the Satin: Germany. Satin. Passover seder. See also kittel. satin: Silk or rayon fabric woven in a satin weave. sari: India. Gauzy wrap worn by Hindu women. Wraps satin antoinette: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced around the body with one end thrown over the in 1834, satin with a white ground and stripes and shoulder. bouquets of flowers. sarja: Portugal. Serge; twilled woolen or silk cloth. satin berber: Strong, worsted, satin weave fabric. sarkan wuya: Nigeria. Necklace made of multiple chains. satin cashmere: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, sarkandai: See gul-i-sarrai. a wool fabric with a silk surface. sarong: 1. Java and Ceylon. Long, wide strip of fabric satin checks: Lightweight satin fabric with a checked worn wrapped around the waist like a skirt. 2. Indo- pattern. nesia. Sa’dan-Toraja woman’s large bamboo hat. satin chinois: France. China silk. sarong billá: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja hat made from satin crepe: Rich, satin-faced fabric with a crepe back. bamboo bark. satin damask: Jacquard weave linen damask with satin sarong kadojo: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja black sewn figures. bamboo hat. satin de chine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced sarong kaledo: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja pointed bam- in 1850, silk and worsted satin. boo hat. satin de laine: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, a sarong lambing: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja hat made fabric with a surface smooth as silk. from strips of bamboo skin woven together. satin de Lyon: Satin with a ribbed back. sarong lombok: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja man’s large satin de Mai: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, a new coarsely plaited hat. fabric. 262 satin duchesse satin duchesse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in satula: India. Lower body wrap. 1870, thick, plain, strong satin. saty: Czechoslovakia. Clothing. satin faconne: Jacquard fabric with a satin weave ground. satyna: Poland. Satin. satin fontange: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced saucer brim: Shallow turned up hat brim. in 1841, broadly striped satin with alternating white saucer-collar: Gay Nineties (1890– and colored stripes. 1900 C.E.). United Kingdom. In satin foulard: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1898, a woman’s high, wide 1848, silk satin with stripes or dots. collar on a day dress. satin jean: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1870, saula: India. The border of a gar- twilled cotton with a satin face. ment. satin liberty: France. Art Nouveau silk. Saum: Germany. Hem. satin lisse: Satin weave cotton with tiny figures. sauma: Norway. Old Norse word satin merino: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in meaning to sew. 1846, fabric with one side like cashmere and the other sausani: India. Mauve. like plush. saut-en-basque: Crinoline (1840– satin merv: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1886, 1865 C.E.). Sack. broad ribbed satin. sautoir: Directoire and First Em- satin merveilleux: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Intro- pire (1790–1815 C.E.). France. duced in 1881, twill weave silk satin fabric. 2. Fine, 1. Chain necklace with a pen- saucer-collar soft silk fabric. dant. 2. Chain worn by women. Dover Publications satin orientale: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1894, 3. See santon. a satin brocaded in narrow stripes and faint tracery sauvarnapatta: India. A gold brocade. of leaves and flowers. savadi copacchudahu: India. An embroidered and satin rouleaux: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 dyed stuff from Savada. C.E.). Rolls or folds of ribbon used as piping. savate: France. Worn out shoe. satin stitch: Closely spaced stitch which forms a pad- savonnette watch: Pocket watch with spring lid. ded effect. savrikin: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew wom- satin sultan: India. Worsted fabric with a satin face. an’s tunic. satin surah: Shiny surah. sawa ‘ìd: Israel. Triangular inset in a woman’s gown. satin turc: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1868, Saxon embroidery: Ancient outline embroidery. very shiny wool fabric. saxony: Generic term referring to fine quality satin velouté: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. Intro- of short staple botany . duced in 1837, satin fabric. Saxony lace: Imitation Brussels lace. satin Victoria: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- say: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to Re- dom. Introduced in 1854, striped wool fabric similar naissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Wool cloth. to silk. saya: 1. Philippine Islands. Ankle-length skirt. 2. Bul- satin weave: Shiny weave with characteristic floats; garia. Woman’s gown with a deeply curving bodice warp yarns which pass over many weft yarns before and sleeves. 3. Japan. Silk fabric with twill weave going under one. patterns on a plain weave ground. 4. Renaissance satiné playé: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. French dress. duced in 1873, striped cotton and wool blend fabric, sayal: Peru. Very coarse woolen fabric, mostly used for the face satin and the stripes twilled. saddlebags. satiné velouté: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. Intro- : See sagum. duced in 1873, striped cotton and wool blend fabric. sayiaki: Greece. A thick white fabric. satinesco: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United šayō: Ethiopia. Belts. Kingdom. Poor satin. saz: India. An Ottoman design of a round stemless blos- : Holland. Sateen. som surrounded by a curling leaf. satineta: Spain. Satinette. sbernia: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Long scarf worn satinette: Satin woven of silk or silk and cotton with pinned on the left shoulder by women. closely twilled face. sbornik: Russia. Headdress. satingle Holland: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1868, fab- scabilonians: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Men’s ric with silk on one side, satin on reverse. drawers. satlara: India. A seven-stringed necklace. scahwere: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Veil. satlari: India. A seven-stringed necklace. scalings: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- satthaka: India. Scissors. dom. New fashion in men’s breeches. schuifspeldje 263 scallop: 1. Circular curve. 2. Restoration (1660–1700 Schäppeli: Switzerland. High, richly decorated crown C.E.). In 1662, a lace-edged band; forerunner of the or hat. tie. scharlaken: Holland. Scarlet. scamato: Greece. A spun cotton. schaubelein: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s short, scamiciato: Italy. Jumper. flaring jacket. scapulari: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Chasuble worn schauslooper: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 by the Benedictines, Dominicans, and Carthusians. C.E.). South Africa. Greatcoat. scarab: Egyptian (4000– 30 B.C.E.). Beetle-like symbol of schecke: See scheckenrock. the sun god often used as a form of decoration. scheckenrock: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Germany. scarabee: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, dark Wammes. yellowish green. scheenplaten: Holland. Greaves. scaraboid: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.) Animal shape scheibenbart: Austria. Bunch of feathers in hatband. carved into a scarab back. Scheitelstuck: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Germany. Scarborough hat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Skull of the helmet. Kingdom. Very popular woman’s hat with a deep schenti: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Loincloth. See also turned up brim. shenti. Scarborough ulster: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Schiessstöcke: Germany. Literally “shooting stick,” a United Kingdom. In 1892, a man’s caped, hooded, seat cane. sleeveless ulster. Schiffchenspitze: Germany. Tatting lace. scarf: Wide band of fabric worn loosely in various ways schir: Germany. Fine cloth. about body. Schirm: Germany. Umbrella. scarf drapery: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- Schirmmütze: (1940–1949 C.E.). Germany. S.S. officer’s dom. Popular in 1870s, form of trim on the front of a peaked cap decorated with a black band with a woman’s skirt. Consisted of a fold or drape of fabric death’s head emblem. trimmed with flounces, frills, and ribbon. Schlafanzug: Germany. Pajamas. scarf volant: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, silk Schlafenzug: See Nachthemd. shawl with a closed square front. It had a festooned Schlapp Hut: Germany. Squash hat. flounce and was trimmed with bands of velvet and schlappe: Switzerland. Woman’s small white cap with narrow lace. The lower edge was fringed. wide black wings. scarlatto: Italy. The color scarlet. Schleier: Germany. Veil. scarlet: 1. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Bright or- Schleife: Germany. Bow. ange. 2. Brilliant red. Schleswig lace: Denmark. Needlepoint lace. scarpa: Italy. Leather shoe. Schlips: See Halsbinde. scarpe: Italy. Shoe. Schneider: Germany. A tailor. scarpetti: Shoe worn when rock climbing. Schnupftuch: See Taschentuch. scavilones: See scabilonians. Schnupftücher: Switzerland. Handkerchief. sceanc-bend: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 Schnurrstich: Germany. Couching stitch. C.E.). United Kingdom. Band worn around the shin. schoen: Holland. Shoe. sceanc-gegirla: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 schoenveter: Holland. Shoestring. C.E.). United Kingdom. Decorative band worn schöpen: Switzerland. Worn by women in the home, a around the shin. loose gown. sceorp: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Schornsteinkappe: See Mönchskappe. United Kingdom. Men’s clothes, particularly fancy schort: Holland. Apron. clothes. schorteband: Holland. Apron string. scépa: Greece. Everyday white kerchief. Schotse baret: Holland. Tam-o’-shanter. schackelhaube: See shako. Schotse Hooglanders: Holland. Kilt. Schafspelz: Germany. Mongolia fur. Schotse muts: Holland. Glengarry. schalavery: See esquavar. Schotse omslagdoek: Holland. Plaid. Schaller: Germany. Sallet. Schottenröckchen: Germany. Kilt. schapevel: Holland. Sheepskin. Schottenstoff: Germany. Tartan. schappe silk: Fabric made from carded spun silk. schoudermantel: Holland. Cloak. schappel: Germany. Traditional Black Forest wedding schoudertas: Holland. Shoulder bag. hat in the general form of a crown in the style of Schrōtœre: Germany. Tailor. those worn in statues of the Virgin Mary. Varies in Schuh: Germany. Shoe. size and shape. Honored sign of virginity. schuifspeldje: See haarspeld. 264 Schuoch

Schuoch: Germany. Shoe. ments to provide clothing for monks and nuns. Schürtze: Germany. Apron. scrydan: United Kingdom. Old English word meaning Schürze: Germany. Old word for apron. to clothe or to dress. Schurze: Germany. Pinafore. scuird: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Schutzhelm: Germany. Crash helmet. Ireland. Shirt, tunic, or cloak. schwartz: Germany. Black. Scuoh: Germany. Old High German term for shoe. Schweizergelb: Switzerland. Literally “Swiss yellow.” scye: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). Tai- schynbaldes: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Armor loring term referring to the curved lower portion of shin guards. armseye of coat. sciameto: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Italy. Rich scyfel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). heavy damask silk. United Kingdom. Woman’s hat or hood. sciccels: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). scyrte: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). United Kingdom. Rectangular cloak, probably of fur. United Kingdom. Originally term for tunic that ap- Worn by men. 2. See hacele. peared simultaneously with cyrtel. Worn by men. sciccing: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). sea coat: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan United Kingdom. Cloak. (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn by seamen, scimmia: Italy. Monkey fur. man’s lined and hooded coat. scipio eburneus: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 sea green: Yellowish green. C.E.). Scepter of ivory with an eagle at the top. Used Sea Island cotton: Fine, silky cotton grown on islands by a consul or magistrate at the games. off southern coast of United States of America. sclaveyn: See sclavyn. sea-gown: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan sclavine: See sclavyn. (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Wrap worn at sclavyn: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance sea. (1450–1550 C.E.). Pilgrim’s mantle. seal: Soft, thick, fine, mouse-colored fur. Often dyed scogger: United Kingdom. Footless worsted stockings. black or brown. scōh: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). sealskin cloth: Fabric imitating sealskin. United Kingdom. Shoe or shoes. sealskin coat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- scollatura: Italy. Neckline. dom. Fashionable in 1880s, coat cut full in the back. scone cap: Scotland. Similar in shape to a scone; broad, From 1882 to 1888, trimmed with a broad flat bow flat, round cap with a visor. Popular in lowlands. over the bustle. scoop bonnet: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular sealskin sacque: (1900–1910 C.E.). A long, fitted cap of name for long narrow bonnet worn in 1840. sealskin. Scotch cambric: Fine cotton cambric. sēamere: United Kingdom. Old English word for tailor. Scotch cap: Brimless wool cap. sebki: India. An apple green color. scotch gingham: Quality, closely woven, cotton ging- sebnia: Morocco. White or green foulard silk scarf. ham fabric. Second Empire costume: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Scotia: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In February, 1860, United Kingdom. Popular from 1850 to 1867, gown gray cloth cloak with plaid trim. with a snug-fitting bodice, pagoda sleeves, and a Scotia silk: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 full skirt. C.E.). Introduced in 1809, cotton and silk fabric, simi- secque: Lightweight sabotine. lar to broché. secrete: See jupe. scozzese: Italy. Tartan. seda: Ecuador, Guatemala, Portugal, and Spain. Silk. scratch bob: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late seda chape: Spain. Schappe silk. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular seda cruda: Spain. Raw silk. from 1740 to the end of the century, bob wig that cov- seda de corbatas: Spain. Tie silk. ered only the back of the head with the wearer’s own seda floja: Guatemala. Silk floss from China. hair brushed back from the front to cover the edge. seda silvestre: Spain. Tussah silk. Name derived from the fact that when wearing it, sedalina: Guatemala. Pearl cotton. wearer could reach and scratch his head. Sedan lace: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– scratch wig: See scratch bob. 1660 C.E.). Cutwork lace made in Sedan. scrip: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Pouch or wallet. seed beads: Small beads used in allover effects. scrōtari: Germany. Old word for tailor. seed embroidery: Germany. Embroidery done with scrud: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). seed beads. United Kingdom. Clothes. Used for either gender. seed pearl: Tiny pearl. Used frequently in papers dealing with arrange- seeds: See wheat ears. serkr 265

Seehund: Germany. Seal fur. šemsija: See kišobran. seerband: India. Turban. sen: Japan. Felt. seershaud: See sirshad. Sendai Hira silk: Japan. A stiff, flat weave silk with a seersucker: France. Lightweight, plain weave fabric fine glossy warp and an untwisted raw silk woof. It with a crinkled effect made by making the warp very is made on the Sendai Plains. loose. It is derived from the Persian shiroshakkar, a : Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Lightweight gold puckered cotton fabric imported from India. cloth. se‘evae: Samoa. Sandals. sendelbinde: See flieder. seghosen: Nigeria. Cloth used in . : Rough straw used for men’s hats. segmentae: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Decorative señor: Bolivia. Tied with a thick wide belt, a large bur- stripes sewn on over the shoulders of garments. gundy cloth worn wrapped around the waist. segu: Senegal. Finely woven lightweight cloth woven señora llijlla: Bolivia. Llijlla with bands of red, green, from European yarns. and wine color. segúna: Greece. Everyday mantle. señore: Bolivia. Cummerbund. sehan: India. Silk cloth. señorita jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Woman’s sleeve- Seide: Germany. Silk. less jacket of colored silk with draped tabs in back over seigo: Japan. 1. A heavy, stiff silk fabric often used in the bustle. Edges trimmed with a band of black velvet stage costumes. 2. Taffeta-like silk. and aiguillettes of black silk cord on the shoulders. seileadach: Ireland. Gaelic word for pocket handker- sensuji: Japan. A heavy-duty cotton fabric like light- chief. weight canvas. seïméniko: Greece. Three-quarter length overcoat. seod: Ireland. Jewel. seircean: Ireland. Gaelic word for jerkin. seolac: See siolac. seircin: Ireland. Gaelic word for jerkin. sepia: Dark, dull brown. seiric: Ireland. Gaelic word for silk. sepu’: Indonesia. Small cotton bag used by the Sa’dan- seiz: France. Breton for silk. Toraja to carry betel. sejodae: Korea. Silken cord worn by young men around Seraceta: Trade name for rayon made by acetate process. the upper chest on ceremonial occasions. seragu: India. Breadth-wise border on a sari. sekernil: Denmark. Pants. serai topi: India. The Sindhi topi. Sekhemty: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Double crown of serape: Mexico. Blanketlike outer garment. Egypt. serapis: Persia. Long tunic of fine pleated fabric. sela: India. A silk headscarf. seraser: Turkey. Velvet in which the use of silver thread selari: India. A silk sari with breadthwise borders. dominates. selba: Timbuktu. A woman’s red slipper. seray: See ankanjo. selendang: Indonesia. Long stole worn draped over the serc: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). shoulder. United Kingdom. Man’s simple shirt or tunic. Term seleulu: Samoa. Scissors. applied to a tunic worn by monks during day and selimut:Timbuktu. Man’s cloth. night. See also scyrte. selisie lawn: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Cambric serekh: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Rectangular plaque made in Silesia. decorated with palace facade and topped with fal- selk: 1. Russia. Silk. 2. Byzantine and Romanesque (400– con. Used in jewelry. 1200 C.E.) to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United serenk: Turkey. Colorful type of brocaded silk. Kingdom. Middle English word for silk. serge: 1. Cotton lining material. 2. Soft, strong, wool sella: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Saddle- fabric. 3. Silk. 4. France. Twill. shaped headdress from which hung a fine silk veil. serge de soy: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Silk or selvage: Finished edge on woven or knitted fabric. silk and wool blend fabric used for men’s vests. semea: Samoa. Yellowish brown. serge royale: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in semfiti: Nigeria. A fringed scarf. 1871, flax and wool blend fabric with a silky surface. semnar: See samare. sergedesoy: See desoy. sempringham: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Lincoln- sergedusoy: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Coarse shire fabric. silk fabric used for coats. semptress bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– sergette: Thin serge. 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1812, sergia: France and Italy. Serge. woman’s bonnet with very long wide ribbons that sēricum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Silk. crossed under the chin and were then brought up to serih: See sīda. the top of the crown and tied in a bow. serkr: Norway. Old Norse word for shirt. 266 serouel

serouel: See charoul. sgaileagan: Ireland. Gaelic word for fan. seroval: Morocco. Loose, full trousers. sgàilean-uisge: Ireland. Umbrella. serpe: See sarpe. sgail-uisge: Ireland. Gaelic word for umbrella. serpent: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, green. sgala: Ireland. Gaelic word for an ill-shaped hood or a serpentaux: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 tunic. C.E.). France. Woman’s hairstyle with lightly curled hair. sgian-dubh: Scotland. Black-knife worn tucked into the serpentine crepe: Plain weave fabric with lengthwise top of a man’s stocking on right leg. Held in place by crinkled effect. garter band. serpentine skirt: See morning glory skirt. sgrog: Ireland. Gaelic word for skull cap. serpeych: See sarpech. sgrogaid: Ireland. Gaelic word for old hat or cap. šerret: Ethiopia. Ankle-length apron. sgrogan: Ireland. Gaelic word for skull cap. serre-tête: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. Hat sguain: Ireland. Gaelic word for the train on a dress. ribbon. sgùird: Ireland. 1. Smock. 2. Apron. 3. Skirt. serribaf: See shirinbaf. sgulair: Ireland. Gaelic word for a large, old hat. serst: Russia. Wool. sgùman: Ireland. Skirt worn with the train tucked up. serud: See clāpes. sgyrt: Wales. Skirt. serul: Morocco. Bloused, long trousers that end below sha: Japan. Soft, open weave, silk gauze. the knee. sha ‘iriyya: Libya. Choker necklace with many pendants. service cap: See nehru cap. sha ‘riyeh: Palestine. Woman’s silver necklace with service shoe: Military shoe, usually with plain toe. many narrow pendants. servilla: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Slipper. shaal: See ghoutra. sesir: Croatia and Serbia. Hat. shabakat al-kharaz: Palestine. Literally “bead-net,” cro- sēt: See delg. cheted cap decorated with small glass beads. sēt argait: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for silver brooch. shabnam: India. Literally “morning dew,” a transpar- seta: Italy. Silk. ent fabric. sethi: India. Banker’s turban. shade: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Romantic setim: Portugal. Satin. (1815–1840 C.E.). Sheer piece of net, lace, or gauze setimeta: Portugal. Sateen. worn by women to fill in or shade the décolletage. setre: Turkey. Frock coat. Sometimes had an attached neck ruff. settee: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Double lappets on shade cloth: Heavy cotton fabric treated until opaque. woman’s indoor cap. shadow: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles I and seuchd: Ireland. Gaelic word for mantle or tunic. the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). United King- seud-ghlasaidh: Ireland. Gaelic word for locket. dom. Bongrace without a hood and made of velvet, sevani: See suci. linen, or lace edged lawn. Sevastopol: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, wom- shadow embroidery: Embroidery done with catch an’s cloak with a deep cape. Trimmed with deep stitch on wrong side of fabric. plush, fur, or velvet. shadow lace: Very lightweight machine-made lace. seven-eighths coat: (1920–1930 C.E.). Woman’s knee- shadow organdy: Organdy printed with faint self-pattern. length, double-breasted suit coats with large notched : Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 lapels, buttons, and braid trim. Worn with long slen- C.E.). Used until end of 18th century, fabric with vel- der skirts and high-necked blouses. vet nap on one side, of silk or worsted. Seville: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1862, shag mittens: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 woman’s violet silk bonnet trimmed with bunches of C.E.). United States of America. Mittens that were white roses and grapes on one side. Inside of brim fringed all over. was trimmed with blonde, roses, and grapes. shagreen: 1. Untanned leather of horse, shark, ass, or Sevillian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, taffeta seal with a rough surface. Frequently dyed green. 2. double shawl with a goffered ruche on the tower Fabric with a grained ground. edge. Shawl had guipure hood and was edged with shag-ruff: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration narrow fringe trimmed with jet beads. (1660–1700 C.E.). Ruff with an irregular edge. Sèvres blue: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1891, a shagshu zamarro: Ecuador. Riding cape made of sheep- new color. skin. seyamitum: See samite. shah ajidah: India. Coat with 60 ornamental stitches. sfifeh: Palestine. Cuffs. shahab: India. Red dye. sfilatura: Italy. Drawn-thread work. shahajidah: India. Double lined, royal coat with orna- sgaball: Ireland. Gaelic word for helmet. mental stitches. Sometimes it is quilted. sheath dress 267 shahasi: Kiamu. A nose ornament. shao: China. Wei, Jin and Northern dynasties. Triangu- shajak: Albania and Hungary. Heavy goat hair twill. lar lengths of silk hung from a woman’s short upper shakefold: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan skirt. (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Early form of the shapka: Russia. Cossack cap made of fur ranging in size farthingale made of a stiffened pad on a wire frame. to head size to as large as two feet high by two feet shaker: Heavy jersey. wide. shaker flannel: Lightweight, white, cotton flannel sharb: Egypt. Woman’s square headscarf worn folded napped on both sides. into a triangle. Sometimes trimmed with crochet, Shakespere collar: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United beading, or tassels. Kingdom. Man’s turned down collar. sharbati: India. Very transparent cotton cloth; light buff Shakespere vest: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- color. dom. Man’s waistcoat with a turned down collar and sharbūsh: See dubbahah. a notched lapel. Popular 1876–1877. sharf: Russia. Sash. shakkeh: Palestine. Woman’s headdress ornament; row sharkskin: Twill or basket weave worsted suiting of a of gold coins on a band. color crossed with white. shako: Directoire and First Empire sharovary: Russia. Wide trousers. (1790–1815 C.E.). Hat wider at the sharps: Small, thin needles used for hand sewing. top than at the edge on the head. shash: 1. Married Afar woman’s black voile shawl. 2. It had a visor and was decorated Oman. White muslin veil. 3. Palestine. White muslin with a plume on top. Reached pop- used for women’s veils. ularity after the Italian Campaign. sha-sha: Egypt. Generic term for bead. shaksheer: Orient. Women’s long, shatweh: 1. Muslim. Fez-like hat worn by married full trousers. women under the white khirka. 2. Palestine. Wom- shal: 1. Russia. Winter long wool an’s headdress similar to the scarf worn tied under the chin. tarbush. Made from red or red shako 2. Palestine. Flowered, fringed and green broadcloth, cotton, See also photospread (Headwear). shawl in pink or maroon wool, or linen and is padded and cotton, or silk. topped with a harbeh. shale: See babushka. shaving hat: Early Georgian shaleh: Palestine. ‘Abayeh made of woolen fabric in black, (1700–1750 C.E.). Man’s hat of blue, brown, or cream. May be embroidered at the neck. plaited wood-shavings. shalloon: Lightweight, wool fabric made in Chalons, shawal: Palestine. Woman’s ankle- France. length, narrow-skirted dress. shalwar: Orient. Trousers. shawl: Straight, square, oblong, shambar: Palestine. Ceremonial veil. or triangular piece of fabric shamew: See chammer. worn across shoulders. shawl collar shamiya: Bulgaria. Headcloth of white, red, or green. shawl collar: Romantic (1815–1840 When tied over the crown it shows the wearer to be C.E.). Wide turned down collar a maiden, when tied beneath the chin, to be married. cut without a notch on a coat or shamla: See shimla. waistcoat. shamlah: Palestine. Woman’s gold girdle worn with shawl Josephine: Crinoline (1840– black dresses. 1865 C.E.). In 1856, woman’s la- shams: See half shirt. dy’s cloth talma with a slashed shan ku: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Han hood. Trimmed in black velvet. man’s cotton, thigh-length gown worn by coolies. shawl waistcoat: Romantic (1815–1840 Worn with loose-fitting trousers. C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). shanf: Palestine. Gold earring comprised of a thick wire Man’s waistcoat with a shawl collar and semicircular disc. Worn through the upper ear or a waistcoat made from a shawl. or the nose. shawl wool: See cashmere. shang: China. Ming dynasty (1368–1644 C.E.). Man’s sheath dress: 1. Egyptian (4000– 30 seven-paneled skirt. B.C.E.). Straight dress cut below Shanghai gown: See cheongsam. the breasts with shoulder straps. sheath dress shantung: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular in 1870s, 2. (1950–1960 C.E.). Woman’s See also photospread thin, soft, undyed China silk. 2. Plain weave fabric knee-length tightly fitted dress, (Women's Wear). with heavy weft yarns. strapped or strapless. Dover Publications 268 sheep’s gray

sheep’s gray: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– shibori: Japan. Tie-dyeing. 1660 C.E.). Homespun undyed cloth of wool. shibori-zome: Japan. Dapple dyeing. sheep’s russet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- shift: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Georgian tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Fearnought. (1750–1790 C.E.). Term replacing smock. Later re- sheitel: Wig worn by Jewish women after marriage. placed by chemise. shell: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- shige-meyui: Japan. Tiny knotted tie-dyeing. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Curl of hair forming a bow in shigoki-obi: Japan. A white crepe or cotton sash. women’s hairstyles. 2. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). shigra: See linchi. Scotland. Cuirass. 3. (1960–1970 C.E.). Sleeveless, shihan: Japan. Literally “one-fourth,” a type of kerchief. slip-on blouse. shike-ito: Japan. Strong hemp thread used for tie-dyeing. shell pink: Pink with orange red tint. shima: Japan. Striped fabric. shema: Tibet. Durable wool fabric. shimabaori: India. An unlined jacket for mid-summer use. shen dai: China. Zhuong dynasty. Scholar’s girdle. shimba: Ecuador and Guatemala. Braid of hair. shen yi: China. Man’s under-robe with a straight collar shimla: India. A broad brimmed turban decorated with band, full sleeves with narrow cuffs, and paneled gold thread embroidery. skirt. It fastened over to the right. Made of 12 pieces shimmy: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of of fabric. America. Slang for chemise. shenandoah: Thick-soled, high-heeled, mid-calf-high, Shimokyo-zome: Japan. The dyeing done in lower leather boot. Kyoto. shendot: Egyptian (4000– 30 B.C.E.). Symbol of the Pha- shin: Korea. Shoes; boots. raoh, a skirt similar to the gala skirt but cut with two shinbar: See shambar. curved and pleated edges in front. shinel: Russia. Soldier’s greatcoat. shenti: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Loincloth. shingle: Hair cut close to head. shenu: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Flax. shinobugusa: Japan. Grass used to produce a greenish shepherdess bonnet: Crinoline stain for rubbed dyeing. (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s soft shintiyan: Egypt. Women’s voluminous trousers simi- straw hat with a slightly turned lar to salvar. Very long with drawstrings to tie them up brim and usually adorned at the knee where they blouse to the ankle. with flowers. It is worn toward shinyah: Palestine. Panel at lower back of woman’s the back of the head. dress. shepherd’s check: Any fabric shinyar binaqleh talis: Palestine. Panel of solid embroi- with small even black and white dery. checks. shioze: Japan. Thick silk similar to taffeta. shepherd’s cloth: See dread- ship-tire: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- nought. dom. Woman’s high coiffure. shepherd’s plaid: See shepherd’s shirastra: India. A helmet. shepherdess bonnet check. shirastra jala: A helmet for soldiers. Dover Publications sherihah: Palestine. Leather belt. shireenbaf: See shirinbaf. sherry-vallies: Charles I (1625–1660 C.E.) to Late Geor- shirinbaf: India. Kind of fine cotton cloth. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). of America. Man’s legging that shirinka: Russia. Scarf made from the entire width of buttoned up the outside of the trousers. Worn to pro- the fabric. It is embroidered in satin stitch with silk tect the trousers from mud when riding. and metallic threads. sherte: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) shiromuku: Japan. A pure white bridal kimono. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. shiroshakkar: Persia. A puckered cotton fabric im- Middle English word for shirt. ported from India. : India. Angarakha that buttons down the cen- shirt-drawers: Calf-length man’s shirt with slits in cen- ter front. See also achkan. ter front and center back. shesh: Morocco. Man’s long white or blue scarf worn shirting flannel: Plain or twilled, around the head and neck as protection from the sun lightweight woolen flannel. and sand. shirtwaist: Crinoline (1840–1865 shetland: Lightweight fabric made from Shetland sheep C.E.). Ladies’ bodice cut in mas- wool. culine style with a high collar. Shetland lace: Lightweight bobbin lace made of Shet- shirvani: See qatifah-i-purbi. land wool. : India. Mirrored glass used shirtwaist Shetland wool: Fine worsted yarn. in embroidery work. Dover Publications sicilienne 269 shitagi: Japanese. Underkimono. showing horn: See shoe horn. shiu tian yi: China. Literally “paddy field dress,” shozoku: Japan. Theater costumes. woman’s patchwork gown that fastened on the side. shribrik: Palestine. Couched stitch. shliapa: Russia. Hat. shrimbawi: Palestine. Plain linen fabric used for every- shmar: Palestine. Cord used to tie back the sleeves of day dresses. the thob. shrimp: Bright red orange. shnat: Palestine. Gold nose-ring. shtany: Russia. Trousers. shnur: Russia. Hussar’s shoulder cord. shuba: Russia. Overcoat or cloak of fur. sho: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to Re- shubnam: India. Thin pellucid muslin. naissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Middle shuchin: Japan. Brocaded satin. English word for shoe. shudiya: Nigeria. Sace of dyed cotton. shoaizome: Japan. Method of indigo dyeing. shugga: Egypt. Wide, floor-length cloak that envelops shoddy: Fabric made from rags of worsted and other the entire body. wool scraps. shughl bet lahm: See shughl talhami. shoe horn: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Piece of metal shughl talhami: Palestine. Bethlehem work; embroi- or horn used to assist the foot to slip into a tight shoe dery couched in silver, gold, and silk cord. or boot. shui tian yi: China. Ming dynasty. Paddy-field dress; shoe satin: Strong, closely woven, semi-glossy satin. gown made of scraps of satin patchworked together. shoe velvet: Heavy velvet used for making shoes. shuilù: China. Light green. shoen: Holland. Shoe. shuìyi: China. Night clothes; pajamas. shoepack: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United States shuka: East African warrior’s wrap worn wrapped of America. Moccasin-like shoe of tanned leather. around the body and tied on one shoulder. shoe-tie necktie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United shukina: Peru. Multicolored wool hat. Kingdom. Very narrow necktie that tied in a bow in shukuy: Peru. Untanned leather slippers edged with front of passed through a ring allowing the ends to colored wool fibers. dangle freely. shu’lush: United States of America. Choctaw Indians’ shohakuzan: Japan. Literally “little white mountain,” moccasins. ancient nishiki pattern. shumzil: India. Part of the Manipuri festival dress, a shokko-nishiki: Japan. Imported nishiki with hexago- foot high horn-shaped cane headdress covered by a nal pattern. white turban. shooting coat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle shunbar: See shambar. (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular name in shunbar ahmar: Palestine. Bride’s red veil. 1860s through 1880s for a morning coat. shushpan: Russia. Peasant woman’s holiday tunic. short shorts: See hot pants. shusu: Japan. Satin. shortcuts: See hot pants. shuwayhiyyeh: Palestine. Woman’s belt. shorties: (1950–1959 C.E.). Woman’s gloves that just sialoa: Polynesia. A loincloth made of the bark of Cypho- reached the wrists. lophus macrocephalus. shorts: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. : France. Silk and cotton fabric from Thailand. Evening dress breeches. siang-malam: Sumatra. Changeable silks. shot silk: Changeable silk fabric. siapo: 1. Samoa. Bark cloth. 2. Polynesia. A wrapper made shotten-bellied doublet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). from the bark of the paper mulberry tree. See also tapa. United Kingdom. Short-fronted doublet. sic: India. An embroidered border or fringe. shoubiao: China. Wristwatch. -sicaya: See amsuka. shoujuàn: China. Handkerchief. sich’ida: Korea. To baste. shoulder belt: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- sichóu: China. Silk fabric. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Baldrick. sicilian: Plain weave lining fabric. shoulder heads: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Sicilian bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- Kingdom. Shoulder straps connecting front and back dom. Introduced in 1866, evening bodice with a low of a woman’s gown. square décolletage. Worn with knee-length skirt pan- shoulder knots: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). United els, two in front, and two behind. Kingdom. Bunch of ribbon, cord, or lace loops worn Sicilian embroidery: Lacelike work created using braid as an ornament on the right shoulder. and buttonhole stitch shoulder straps: See shoulder heads. sicilienne: 1. Plain weave fabric with a silk warp and shoulderette: Scarf or stole worn in place of jacket or a cotton or wool weft. 2. Lightweight, plain weave sweater, often knitted or crocheted. silk fabric. 270 sickly green sickly green: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. silahati: India. A silk or cotton stuff of Sylhet. Green color made from natural vegetable dye, not silai: See sari. commercial aniline dye. silecho: See sīda. sic-sik: See amsuka. silesia: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Germany. sīda: Germany. Old word for silk. Originally made in Silesia, Germany, strong, light- sidài: China. Silk ribbon. weight, twill weave cotton fabric. sidan: Wales. Silk. silika: Samoa. Silk. sidari: Egypt. Short vest. silipa: Samoa. Slipper. side: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan silistrienne: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Term meaning 1868, wool and silk fabric. long, i.e., sidegown. siliva: Samoa. Silver. Sīde: Germany. Silk. silk: Protein fiber from the cocoon of the silk worm. side body: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- Each fiber may be as long as 4,000 feet. Very strong, dom. Separate panel in a coat below the armseye. absorbent, resilient, and elastic. side edge: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– silk Damascene: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1890 C.E.). Scalloped flap imitating a narrow vertical 1876, silk and wool fabric with fine stripes of wool pocket. It was sewn into back vent of coat skirt. First and satin alternately. appeared in greatcoats in 1810. Shortly after 1820, ap- silk gauze: Thin silk curtain fabric. peared in frock coats and made into day coats by 1829. silk linen: Rough spun, plain weave, silk fabric. Style was revived in the 1840s and again in 1873. silk rash: See rash. sideburns: Side whiskers. šilkai: Lithuania. Silk. sideless surcoat: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Low- silkaline: Soft, thin cotton fabric with a glazed face. necked, sleeveless woman’s overgarment worn to silke: 1. Denmark. Silk. 2. Sweden. Silk. reveal the sleeves and front of the kirtle. silki: Norway. Old Norse word for silk. siden: See silke. silnaebok: Korea. Negligee. sidriyeh: Palestine. Man’s satin waistcoat trimmed with silver fox: Fox fur with blue black fur and silver guard braid and bobble fastenings. hairs. sifsari: See safsari. silver lace: Lace or braid made with silk weft threads sigele: See mene. covered in foil or leaf. siglat: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Ger- silver taupe uniform: (1950–1960 C.E.). United States many. Rich heavy damask silk. of America. Introduced in 1950, an Army woman’s siglatoen: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). summer semi-dress uniform of light taupe wool Holland. Samite. gabardine. siglaton: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Eastern gold silver tissue: Sheer metal fabric or silver threads. brocade fabric used for dress garments. silverets: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United King- sigle: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). dom. A silk and wool fabric. A cheaper version of Clasp or brooch. 2. See mene. Norwich crape. signet ring: Ring with large intaglio initials. silver-gray: (1900–1909 C.E.). In 1902, a new color. signum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Finger ring with simada: Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. A woman’s hairstyle. a key to a trunk mounted on it. simarra: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Man’s outer robe sigouni: Greece. Woman’s long, sleeveless vest. with wide revers that turned back. Sometimes worn siguni: Hungary and Macedonia. Long coat with a large girdled. See also simarre; in Spain ropa; in France rectangular collar. It is worn over the shoulders. marlotte. sigúni: Greece. White woolen sleeveless coat worn open simarre: 1. See simarra. 2. Ecclesiastical gown shaped down the center front. like a simarra. sihrang: See qatifah-i-purbi. simlah: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Long rectangle of siiwaun: Laos. Upper robe worn by a Buddhist monk. fabric worn by Israelite Jews. Equivalent of himation. sikhamani: India. Man’s crown ornamented with pearls. simpa: Bolivia. Man’s hair worn in a long single braid. sikhandaka: India. Lock of hair worn on the side of the simtakvaldis: Lithuania. Woman’s long jacket with a head. pleated basque. siki: 1. See salovana. 2. See wasa. sin: Laos. Woman’s sarong. sikinchina: Ecuador. A shawl. sinamay: Stiff coarse fabric from abaca fiber. siklat: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). sindon: 1. Egypt. Large draped piece of fabric worn as Norway. Samite. a cloak. 2. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Fine linen sikma: See potur. fabric. skofium 271 sindu: India. An Indian cotton. sissin kara: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja woman’s ring of singar patti: See dauni. white shell. singe: France. Monkey fur. sister’s thread: See nun’s thread. singelos: Peru. Everyday skirt of woolen fabric. sīta: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for silk. singep: Indonesia. Cloth used to cover a child at his or sitapuri: See qatifah-i-purbi. her first haircut. sitara: India. A forehead ornament for women. singlet: Unlined waistcoat. sits: Holland. Chintz. siniki: Greece. Ink used to draw embroidery patterns siu fung sin: (1900–1910 C.E.). United States of Amer- on fabric. ica. Chinese Hawaiian term for a Shanghai collared sinus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Overfold on the blouse. The six-inch collar was worn folded down toga. onto the shoulders. sīoda: Ireland. Silk. siūlas: Lithuania. Thread. sioda bun-duirn: Scotland. Lace cuffs and jabot worn siuvėjas: Lithuania. Tailor. for evening. siwash sweater: See cowichan sweater. siolac: United Kingdom. Old English word for silk. siwy: See szary. siphonia: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular in 1850s sizhipin: China. Silk fabrics. and 1860s, man’s long, weatherproofed overcoat. sjaal: Holland. Shawl. Pocket siphonia was a version that could be rolled sjako: Holland. Shako. up and carried. skandakarani: India. Woman’s square shawl. sipu anaku: Ecuador. Quichua term for a pleated anaku. skarabigion: Persia. Long fur-lined gown that buttoned sirastrana: India. Man’s turban. shut at the sides. sirat: Borneo. Men’s 18-inch by 15- or 16-feet-long cot- skarpetka: Poland. Sock. ton loincloth, made of red or blue cotton. skaut: Norway. Older woman’s starched white headdress. sire: See sari. skelat: Borneo. Red flannel. siree: See sari. skeleton suit: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 siren suit: (1940–1950 C.E.). Coveralls for women. C.E.). United Kingdom. Boy’s suit of a snug jacket sirge debaragon: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Resto- with two rows of buttons, ankle-length trousers that ration (1660–1700 C.E.). Light variety of serge. buttoned to the jacket around the waist. sirghe: Manchuria. Silk. : Sturdy boot of special construction for skiing. sīric: See sīta. škidrauts: Lithuania. Thin cloth. sirinbaf: India. A very fine muslin. skilkja: See feldr. siring: See shirinbaf. skilts: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United States of sirkek: Mongolia. Silk. America. Full (a yard wide) trousers that reached just siróng: China. Velvet. below the knee. Popular with country people. siropāu: India. Yellow or saffron colored tie-dyed tur- skimskin: See snoskyn. ban. skin-coat: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Man’s leather sirottarapattika: India. A turban. jerkin commonly worn by peasants and shepherds. sirpeach: See sarpech. skinnsaum: Iceland. A form of open braid or gimp lace. sirsa kataha: India. A soldier’s helmet. skiradion: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). sirsaka: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in Oval tiara worn by the Byzantine Empress. Fabric 1835, silk fabric with lengthwise light colored stripes circlet trimmed with pearls and a plume. Color and horizontal dark colored stripes. 2. India. Pearl ranged from white to scarlet to green. necklace. skirduk: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 sirshad: India. Kind of turban or veil. C.E.). Sweden. Gauzy veiling. sirsobha: India. Cap. skirt ruff: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. sirwaal: United Arab Emirates. Woman’s trousers. Thick ruching of fabric sewn to the inside of the hem sirwal: Palestine. Baggy striped or solid colored pants. of a skirt to make it stand out. Vary widely in cut and length. skitty boot: United Kingdom. Heavy half boot. sirwall: Egypt. Black pants very baggy in the crotch and skiver: Cheap, soft sheep leather. fitted at the calf and ankle. skjorta: Sweden. Shirt. sirwat: Sarawak. As long as 15 yards, a waistcloth of skjorte: Denmark. Shirt. bark cloth, silk, or cotton. sklat: See skelat. sis sobha: India. Kulah. sko: Denmark and Sweden. Shoe. : Strong, durable fibers from agave plant. skofium: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 sismusilis: See chisamus. C.E.). Sweden. Gilt silver wire used in embroidery. 272 skōhs

skōhs: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic slat-rioghail: Ireland. Gaelic word for scepter. (1350–1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Generic term for slaucis: Lithuania. Handkerchief. shoe. slave blanket: United States of America. Southwestern skokie: (1920–1930 C.E.). United States of America. blanketry combining Navajo upright loom tech- Variation of the Norfolk jacket with a set-in pleat in niques and designs with minor motifs from the Span- back and pleats or gathers for fullness. ish colonists. skor: Norway. Old word for shoe. slave bracelet: Bracelet of several narrow rings. skóra: Poland. Leather. slavin: See sclavyn. : (1960–1970 C.E. to present). Miniskirt combined slavnostný kroj: Slovakia. Ceremonial costume. with shorts. sleasy holland: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late skört: Sweden. Skirt. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Term referring to all Hol- skørt: Denmark. Skirt. land fabrics. skräddare: Sweden. Tailor. sleaved silk: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- skraddari: Norway. Old Norse word meaning a tailor. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Raw floss silk. škrlet: Hungary. Broadcloth. sleeve à la Louis Quinze: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In- skrœdder: Denmark and Germany. Tailor. troduced in 1872, elbow-length sleeve with scalloped skrybélé: Lithuania. Hat. flounces covered with flounce of Alencon lace. skuinsdoek: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). South Africa. sleeve à la Minerva: Directoire and First Empire (1790– Triangular scarf worn knotted as a neckcloth. 1815 C.E.). Full short sleeve caught up in the front skull cap: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Small snug- with a jeweled pin. fitting cap. sleeve hand: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– skúña: Greece. Wool stockings. 1660 C.E.). Place in the sleeve through which the skunk: Durable, long-haired, coarse, dark brown pelt hand goes. with two white stripes which are dyed black or cut sleeve tongs: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United away. Kingdom. Decorative metal tongs used to pull the skūra: Lithuania. Leather. dress sleeves through the sleeves of the overcoat. sky blue: Light blue. Sleier: See Sloier. skyrt: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to slendang: Indonesia. Shoulder cloth. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Mid- slesia lawn: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration dle English word for skirt. (1660–1700 C.E.). Fine linen similar to cambric. skyrta: See serkr. slicker: (1920–1930 C.E. to present). United States of skyteen: United Kingdom. Heavyweight cotton shirt- America. Yellow oilcloth raincoat worn by both ing fabric, usually with dark stripes on a sky blue sexes. ground. slicker fabric: Plain cotton fabric waterproofed for slaapmuts: Holland. Nightcap. slickers. slabbetje: Holland. Bib. sliehppa: Norway. Insert of broadcloth worn inside the slammerkin: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late V-neck of a gappte. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Woman’s loose unboned slife-scoh: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). trained sac back morning gown worn with a petti- United Kingdom. Bag-like foot covering. coat. Named for character of Mrs. Slammerkin in The slim jims: See ranch pants. Beggar’s Opera. See also trollopee. sling pump: Woman’s backless slapaireachd: Ireland. Gaelic word for the train on a shoe with strap across the back long robe. of the heel. slash pocket: Directoire and First sling sleeve: Bustle (1865–1890 Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) to Bus- C.E.). United Kingdom. Intro- tle (1865–1890 C.E.). Horizontal duced in 1885, woman’s sleeve pocket without flap. resembling a cape. slashed sleeve: See Spanish sling-duster: Bustle (1865–1890 sleeve. C.E.). United Kingdom. Wom- sling pump slashings: Renaissance (1450– an’s dust cloak with sling sleeves. Commonly made 1550 C.E.). Decorative cuts in of black and white checked silk. clothing. slipēir: Ireland. Slipper. slat bonnet: Bonnet with brim slipe-scoh: See slife-scoh. held in place with thin wooden slipper satin: Strong, durable, rayon or silk fabric used slat bonnet slats. for evening footwear. Snowdrop 273 slippers: House shoes; so named because they slip on smoking: Portugal. Tuxedo; dinner jacket. the foot with no form of closure (buckles or lacings). smoking jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United slips: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Charles I and the Kingdom. Popular from 1850s on, short, single- or Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Individual floral double-breasted man’s jacket of merino, velvet, cash- motifs. mere, or plush and brightly lined. Ornamented with šliuré: Lithuania. Slipper. decorative closures. slivers: See slyders. smugadair: Ireland. Gaelic word for pocket handker- sljapa: Russia. Hat. chief. sljem: Bosnia. Helmet. smuig-aodach: Ireland. Gaelic word for handkerchief. slobkousen: Holland. Spatterdashes. smuigeadach: Ireland. Gaelic word for pocket hand- Sloier: Germany. Veil. kerchief. slöja: Sweden. Veil. snail: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Georgian slop work: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- (1750–1790 C.E.). Short for chenille. dom. Cheap basic clothing for sailors and for export snail button: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late to the colonies. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Covered button deco- sloppy joe: (20th century). United States of America. rated with French knots. Style for women consisting of oversized man’s shirt snaim na banaraich: Ireland. Gaelic word for the worn over cuffed blue jeans. way a milkmaid fastens her skirt at the back after slops: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Large unpad- lifting it. ded knee-length men’s breeches. 2. Late Georgian snajder: See krojac. (1750–1790 C.E.). United States of America. Generic snake: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 term for cheap ready-made clothing. C.E.). Common term referring to men’s love locks. slør: Denmark. Veil. šnala: See kopča. slouch hat: Soft hat. snāth: Ireland. Thread. sluier: Holland. Veil. snàthad: Ireland. Needle. slyders: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- snāthad: Ireland. Needle. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Overalls. snāthat: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for needle. smadeh: Palestine. Married woman’s embroidered cap snàth-clòimhe: Ireland. Woolen yarn. with a padded rim shaped like a horseshoe. Row of snàth-cuir: Ireland. Weft. coins was sewn to the rim. snāthe: Ireland. Old Gaelic word for thread. small slops: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Men’s short snàth-fuaidhle: Ireland. Sewing thread. breeches with open legs. snàth-lìn: Ireland. Linen thread or yarn. smàrag: Ireland. Emerald. snàth-olla: Ireland. See snàth-clòimhe. smaragd: Holland. Emerald. snàth-righailt: Ireland. Basting thread. smaragdfarben: Germany. Emerald green. snàth-sioda: Ireland. Silk thread. smaragdgrün: See smaragdfarben. sneachd-gheal: Ireland. Gaelic word for snow white. smaragdus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Emerald, a sneaker: Rubber soled, lace up sports shoe. gemstone. sniegowce: Poland. Galoshes. smezzati moro: Italy. Very small carved bead of coral sniezobialy: Poland. Snow white colored. used in jewelry. snod: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Filet smicket: Obsolete term for woman’s smock. or band worn on head. smigeadach: Ireland. Gaelic word for chin cloth or bib. : Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to modern times. smiotag: Ireland. Gaelic word for fingerless glove. In 13th century, a net used to cover hair. In 15th and smoc: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). 16th centuries, the nets were decorated with pearls United Kingdom. Shirt or undergarment. Possibly and gems. Disappeared from fashion at end of 16th decorated in some fashion. century and reappeared around 1800 as covers for smock: Woman’s innermost garment worn next to the the fashionable low chignons. skin. snor: Holland. Moustache. smock petticoat: Charles I and the Commonwealth snoskyn: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- (1625–1660 C.E.). Under petticoat. dom. Woman’s small muff. smock-frock: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1. Man’s loose snow cloth: Knitted or woven fabric that is heavily homespun gown. Usually smocked or gauged in pulled or felted. Often water repellent. front. Commonly worn by agricultural workers. 2. Snowdrop: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, mantilla Popular in 1880s, woman’s informal garment influ- with ruched hem. Had revers in front and a deep enced by the aesthetic movement. fringe on lower edge. Heavily embroidered. 274 snowflake snowflake: United Kingdom. Woolen fabric with white soilleir-dhonn: Ireland. Gaelic word for light brown. nubs on the surface. sok: Denmark and Holland. Sock. snowskin: See snoskyn. so-kanoko: Japan. Soli or allover kanoko. snufkin: See snoskyn. sokch’ima: Korea. Woman’s petticoat. snuftkin: See snoskyn. sokkr: Norway. Old Norse word for sock. šnura: See pertla. sokophouder: Holland. Sock suspenders. sobaquera: Spain. Dress shield. sokot: Korea. Underclothes. sobol: Poland. Sable. sokoto: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s narrow trousers. sobre pantalón: Guatemala. Overpants. sokoto kafo: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s trousers that taper sobrecapa: Portugal. Overcoat; raglan. to embroidered bands at the cuffs. sobrecasaca: Portugal. Frock coat. sokoto kembe: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s wide legged sobrepantalón rajado: Guatemala. Black woolen over- trousers. tousers split to the thigh. sokuhatu: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. Literally sobrepeliz: Portugal. Surplice. “knotted coiffure,” a woman’s hairstyle. sobretudo: Portugal. Overcoat. sokutai: Heian (794–1185 C.E.). Japan. A man’s formal sobretudo sôlto: Portugal. Balmacaan. court costume. socas: Wales. Socks. sola topi: India. Pith helmet. socc: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). solapa: Spain. Lapel; revers. United Kingdom. Bag-like foot covering. Similar to solea: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Simple sandal con- the meo. sisting of a wooden sole with a cord passing over the soccae: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Light shoes. foot. soccus: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Wide cer- soled hose: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) emonial cloak worn open and fastened on the right to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Worn until end shoulder. Worn by the king for his coronation and of 15th century, men’s soled stockings of wool or other ceremonies. 2. Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Slipper leather that were worn without shoes. In 15th cen- or shoe without fastening. In Rome, worn only by tury, joined in the groin to form tights. women and comic actors. soleil: Wool fabric with warp twill weave. socka: Sweden. Sock. solers: See slippers. socke: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) soletila: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Thin sole. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. solette: See soulette. Middle English word for sock. solferino: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Fuchsia, one of Socke: Germany. Sock. the first aniline dyes. soco: See socc. solitaire: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Black socq: See socc. string which extended from the back hair bag on a sode: Japan. 1. Sleeves. 2. Sleeve guards in armor. bag wig and was brought around the neck to the sode-guchi: Japan. The sleeve opening. front where it tied into a bow. Ancestor of the - sode-nashi: Japan. Literally “no sleeves,” a haori jacket ern black bow tie. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Lead with no sleeves. colored silk mantilla. sode-tsuke: Japan. The armseye seam. solje: Norway. Symbol of matrons, a large brooch. Of- soga: Indonesia. Brown dye used primarily for batik. ten handed down for generations. sogot: Korea. Underwear. søljer: Norway. Brooches. sohofa: Ethiopia. Man’s copper collar which is open in solleret: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Overlap- front and ends in two rings. ping plates of armor forming the mailed shoe of soi: Vietnam. Shantung silk. a knight. 2. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Round soie: France. Silk. toed shoe. soie de Padoue: See paduasoy. söllstötter: Sweden. Silver ornaments, similar to bolo soie demantine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, tips, which cover the end of a green silk ribbon worn new fabric. tied in a bow around the shirt collar. soieries à double face: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In solo: Samoa. Duster. 1862, silks with each face of different color. solosolo: Samoa. Handkerchief. soieries bizarres: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. som: Korea. Cotton. Literally “bizarre silks,” fabrics of rare sumptuous- somae: Korea. Sleeve. ness made by mixing gold and silver with bright or somaega tchalbun: Korea. Short sleeved. muted colors. somaegakin: Korea. Long sleeved. Soiesette: Trade name for plain weave cotton fabric. sombrerera: Spain. . soutache 275

sombrero: Elizabethan (1550– soppravvesta: Italy. Tabard. 1625 C.E.). Spain. Man’s soft hat soprabito: Italy. Greatcoat. with a wide brim. Worn with sora-iro: Japan. Sky blue. sombrero Cordobès brim turned up on one side. sorket: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Germany. Term sombrero Cordobès: Spain. Man’s meaning surcote. wide-brimmed hat. sorō: Ethiopia. Leather shirts. sombrero de ala ancha: Spain. Broad-brimmed hat. soroki: Russia. Woman’s horned headdress. sombrero de caballero: Spain. Man’s trilby. sorority pin: See fraternity pin. sombrero de copa chistera: Spain. Top hat. sorquenie: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Crinoline sombrero de dos picos: Spain. Cocked hat. (1840–1865 C.E.). Worn from 13th to 19th centuries, sombrero de paja: Spain. Straw hat. woman’s tunic worn snugly fitted over the bust. sombrero de tela: Spain. Cloth hat. sorrel: Yellowish brown. sombrero flexible: Spain. Homburg. Sorrento edging: Lace edging similar to Brussels edging. de lana de lado de Ambato: Ecuador. Wom- sorro: Timbuktu. A pear-shaped ornament worn in the an’s white felt hat. middle of a woman’s forehead. sombrinha: Portugal. Parasol; sunshade. şorţ: Romania. Apron. sombrinha chapeau de sol: Portugal. Parasol. sorti: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. Small knot somi: Vietnam. Shirt. of ribbon worn between pinner and apron. so-mi carô: Vietnam. Checked shirt. sortie: 1. See sorti. 2. Holland. Opera cloak. so-mi-dét: Vietnam. Short sleeved shirt. sortie de bal: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle somitum: See samite. (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular in 1850s sommiere: France. Soft, wool serge napped on one through 1870s, hooded woman’s evening cloak of side. silk, satin, or cashmere. Generally had quilted lining. somot: Korea. Padded clothes. sortija: Spain. Finger ring. somoyo: Japan. An allover design. sortixa: Ecuador and Guatemala. Finger ring. sonehri: India. Gold printing. sosni: India. The color purple. songabang: Korea. Handbag. sostén: Spain. Brassiere. songkabang: Korea. Handbag. sotaina: See batina. songket: Indonesia. Brocade, particularly one using sottana: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) metallic threads. to Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). In 12th and 13th sonko: Timbuktu. A silver bracelet. centuries, woman’s tunic-shaped undergown. Some- sonkoli cap: India. Worn by the fishermen of Bombay, times plain, sometimes striped. Worn by young girls a tall red cap with a horseshoe-shaped opening over as outer gown. 2. Italy. Cassock. 3. See gonella. the forehead. sottogonna: Italy. Petticoat. Sonnenschirm: Germany. Parasol. soucane: See sorquenie. sonsugon: Korea. Handkerchief. soudagir: India. Trade cloths (fabric made for export). sontag: Crinoline (1840–1865 soudarion: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Kerchief for neck C.E.). A woman’s knitted jacket, or arm. sometimes sleeved and other soufflet sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United times a simple knitted shawl. Kingdom. Popular in 1832, woman’s evening sleeve sook chau: Bustle (1865–1890 that was very short with full vertical puffs. C.E.). United States of America. soukno: Bulgaria. Homespun woolen petticoat striped Chinese Hawaiian term for a re- in different colors. sontag fined, black chau material with soulette: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– a light texture. It had floral designs woven into the 1660 C.E.). France. Leather band passing over the fabric. instep and under the patten to hold it to the shoe soort bergkristal: Holland. Rhinestone. or boot. soort rijbroek: Holland. Jodhpurs. soulier: See chaussure. soosey: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- soup and fish: United Kingdom. A slang term for the gian (1750–1790 C.E.). India. Silk and cotton blend tuxedo. fabric with stripes. 2. See susi. souquenilles: See sorquenie. soosie: See susi. sourés: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, mouse color. sopagas: See batas. souris éffrayée: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). France. sopanaka: India. String of pearls necklace on a gold Dull gray. wire. soutache: Narrow decorative braid. 276 soutane

soutane: 1. Cassock worn by Roman Catholic priests. 2. bows or were left open over the stockings. Trimmed See gonelle. 3. France. Cassock. down outside edge of leg with braid or buttons. sou’wester: United States of America. Waterproof fish- : 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Man’s erman’s hat with a brim wider in front than in back. short hooded cloak. 2. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). sovanel: Romania. Woman’s muslin cap. Worn from 1836 on, man’s short round evening cloak sowback: Scotland. Woman’s cap with lengthwise fold. fitted to the shoulders and lined with a bright silk. 3. sowlar: Iran. Wide trousers. See Italian cloak. soyacal: Guatemala. Rain cape. Spanish coat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 soyate: Mexico. Woman’s sash. C.E.). Fashionable in 1814, woman’s pelisse with a soyeaux linsey: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in standing collar and epaulettes on the shoulders. 1869, lightweight wool poplin. Spanish comb: High comb worn in hair. spa bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in Spanish embroidery: 1. Herringbone stitching on 1819, fancy straw hat, sometimes in two colors, worn muslin. 2. Designs of muslin, cambric, and braid without trim. buttonhole. spad-choisbheart: Ireland. Gaelic word for gaiters. Spanish farthingale: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). spagnolet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Geor- United Kingdom. Worn from about 1545 to 1600, gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Gown with narrow sleeves a woman’s underskirt held out by round hoops l’espagnole. of rushes, wood, wire, or whalebone, creating a spaier: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Vertical slit in a funnel-shaped, domed, or bell-shaped skirt. Made of garment. muchado, fustian, buckram, or wool, although some spair: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In use from 1850s on, were made of silk or velvet. fall in a man’s breeches. Spanish fly: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 spandex: Synthetic fiber with super elastic qualities. See C.E.). Introduced in 1809, dark green. also Lycra. Spanish hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 spang: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Metal fasten- C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s large velvet, satin, ing. 2. Holland. Agraffe. or sarcenet hat trimmed with feathers. Worn for eve- spangehelm: Cone-shaped hel- ning or promenade. met of studded Spanish heel: Heel similar to with small pieces or bands of French. iron and sometimes topped with Spanish hose: See Spanish a knob of wood or colored glass. breeches. spangles: Late Gothic (1350–1450 Spanish jacket: Crinoline (1840– C.E.) to present. United Kingdom. 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Small discs of metal used as trim. Woman’s short jacket that met Spanish heel By 16th century, used on clothes down the front and then cut away toward the back of both genders and on hats and at waist level. spangehelm stockings. By 17th century, used Spanish kettledrums: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). on garters, pantofles, and shoe United Kingdom. Worn from 1555 to 1570s, the com- roses. By 18th century, used on men’s coats and mon term for trunk hose. women’s fans. By late 19th century, only used occa- Spanish lace: Any lace made in Spain; most commonly sionally, and then on women’s bonnets and evening silk with heavy flat floral design. dresses. Spanish leather: See cordouan. spaniel’s ears: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Corkscrew Spanish mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, curls worn on each side of the face. mantilla-shaped garment lined with quilted silk. Spanish blue: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Spanish morion: See cabasset. C.E.). Popular shade of dark blue used for men’s Spanish needlepoint: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). morning coats in 1809. Mexico. Fine flax enriched with gold and silver thread. Spanish boots: Charles I and the Commonwealth Spanish paper: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Little (1625–1660 C.E.). Short leather boots with falling papers of red powder made into books which la- tops. dies would then tear out and rub on their faces as Spanish breeches: Charles I and the Commonwealth rouge. (1625–1660 C.E.). Popular from 1630 to 1635 and Spanish sleeve: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 revived from 1663 to 1670, men’s high-waisted, full- C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from 1807 to 1820, length breeches that narrowed from the thighs to end woman’s short evening sleeve puffed at the cap and below the knees where they closed with rosettes or slashed on sides to reveal a silk lining. spoon back 277

Spanish slops: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Trunk hose sphendome: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Filet of felt, without padding. Full slops were long enough to bag leather, or metal. at the knees. Pansid slops were a shorter version. spice: Lithuania. Lace. Spanish stitch: See blackwork. spider helmet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Spanish work: See blackwork. Kingdom. A helmet with the skull covered by iron spartiate: See sandal. bars which hinged down to the shoulders and could : Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). be pushed up out of the way when desired. Coverings for the ankles and shoe spider work: Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.) to Bustle tops. Made of felt or leather. (1865–1890 C.E.). Cheap machine-made lace. spatter dashes: Early Georgian spiders: Czechoslovakia. Elaborate fillings in cutwork. (1700–1750 C.E.). First appearing Spiderwork: United Kingdom. Opus araneum. around 1700, high leather leg- spiked shoes: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Men’s shoes gings that covered the top of the with spikes on soles for playing cricket. Patented in spats shoe and the calf to protect them March, 1861. from spatters. spilenn: France. Breton for pin. spavaćica: Bosnia. Nightgown. spillo: Italy. Pin. Spazierstock: Germany. Walking spillo da petto: Italy. Brooch. stick. spinki: Poland. Cufflinks. spectator: Pump shoe with con- Spinula: Germany. Old High German word for a pin. trasting toe and heel, often perfo- spiochag: Ireland. Gaelic word for purse or bag. rated in a decorative pattern. spiral witney: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced speilp: Ireland. Gaelic word for in 1861, soft fabric with curls on the face, similar to armor. a fur. speld: Holland. Pin. spit curl: See beau-catcher. spencer: Directoire and First Em- spit-boot: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Crinoline pire (1790–1815 C.E.). 1. Very (1840–1865 C.E.). Man’s shoe and gaiter combination short-waisted jacket worn by forming boot that closed down the outside. women. Made of color that con- spitalfields: Silk fabric used to cover umbrellas. trasted with the dress. Named Spitze: Germany. Lace. for Lord Spencer. 2. Man’s short, spitzkappe: Austria. Woman’s conical mushroom- buttoned, long-sleeved, tailless shaped hat. spatter dash jacket. Generally made of light- splay-footed shoes: See duck-billed shoes. colored velvet or wool. Attributed spleuchdan: Ireland. Gaelic word for a pair of spectacles. to Lord Spencer. splinter hat: See splyter-hat. spencer cloak: Directoire and splints: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Overlapping First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). plates that protected the inside of the elbow in plate United Kingdom. Introduced in armor. 1804, woman’s cloak of worked split stitch: A needlework in which the soft untwisted spencer net with short elbow-length silk thread is split with the needle. sleeves. spliùchan: Ireland. Tobacco pouch. spencer wig: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late splyter-hat: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s than (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Straw hat wig the exact shape unknown. made of braided strips of split straw called splints. spencerette: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 spodic: Poland. Jewish man’s high fur hat trimmed with C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1814, woman’s plush. fitted spencer with a low-cut neck edged with a lace spodky: Czechoslovakia. Trousers. frill. spódnica: Poland. Skirt. spendlík: Czechoslovakia. Pin. spódniczka: Poland. Miniskirt. spenel: Germany. Old word for pin. spodniczka szkocka: Poland. Kilt. spennels: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). spodnie: Poland. Trousers. United Kingdom. Clasp or brooch. sponge cloth: Coarse, open leno weave, cotton fabric spere: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration used for dishcloths. (1660–1700 C.E.). Opening of a garment. spoon back: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. spets: Sweden. Generic name for lace. Term used c.1885 for rounded folds of drapery on speyer: See spere. overskirt of a wool walking dress. 278 spoon bonnet

spoon bonnet: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- stamped velvet: Velvet with design stamped or crushed dom. Popular from 1860 to 1864, woman’s bonnet into the pile. with a narrow brim reaching a tall spoon-shaped stamyn sengill: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United peak over the eyes. Kingdom. Worsted fabric made in Norfolk. spoon ring: Ring made from handle of sterling silver stanamsuka: India. 1. Woman’s bodice-like garment. 2. spoon. A Persian-influenced knee or thigh-length tunic. sporan: Scotland. Purse of leather, fur, or long hair, stand-fall collar: Directoire and plain or ornamented, worn hung from chain or strap First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) to around man’s waist over kilt. Evening versions of Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United hair or fur and hung from chain. Worn as part of the Kingdom. Man’s turned over men’s national dress suspended from a belt in the collar. Inner layer referred to as center front. the stand and the turned over sportcolbert: Holland. Sport jacket. part as the leaf or cape. sportjasje: Holland. Blazer. stanik: Poland. Bodice. sportpantalon: Holland. Jeans. stany: Russia. Trousers. spring: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). star of the morning: Bustle (1865– stand-fall collar United Kingdom. Green. 1890 C.E.). Pale gray. spring boots: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United starch: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Kingdom. Introduced in 1776, men’s boots with a First used in 1560s for stiffening ruffs etc. Occasion- whalebone spring in the center back seam to control ally colored yellow or blue. Other countries used wrinkling. other colors. sprzaczka: Poland. Buckle. starcher: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.) Spun-lo: Trade name for low luster rayon knitted to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s fabric. starched cravat. sraing: Ireland. Gaelic word for decorative lace. starrs: Ireland. Gaelic word for starch. sraja: India. Garland of flowers worn on the head. star-studded sky: China. Woman’s hairstyle. srebro: Bosnia. Silver. startop: See startups. sribapha: India. A good quality muslin, sometimes startups: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration dyed red or blue. (1660–1700 C.E.). United States of America. Ordinary sringa: India. A crown made of horm. buckskin. Popular in 16th and 17th centuries with srnkhalika: India. Necklace made of graduated beads. country folk. sròin-eudach: Ireland. Pocket handkerchief. statute cap: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United King- stadium boot: Warm, insulated boot worn over shoes. dom. Knitted cap. In 1570s, Queen Elizabeth ordered staeppe-scoh: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 that all her countrymen should wear this cap on Sun- C.E.). United Kingdom. Term meaning a slipper. days and holy days. This was an effort to promote stafford cloth: United Kingdom. Heavy curtain or drap- the English hat making and wool industries. ery fabric. staubfarbig: Germany. Khaki color. stagbe: Nigeria. Handwoven cloth worn as a part of stavaraka: India. A costly silk fabric made in Persia and Ogboni Fraternity regalia. imported to India. stagen: Indonesia. Stiff cotton tie used to tie the kain in stavrak: India. A heavy brocade. place. stay hook: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late staighinean: Ireland. Gaelic word for stays. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Small decorative hook stalcadair: Ireland. Gaelic word for starch. attached to the front of women’s stays. From it hung stalk button: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Button the watch. with shank made of catgut. steatitis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Soapstone. stambouline: Turkey. Long coat worn by officials on Stecknadel: Germany. Pin. formal occasions. stecknōlde: See spenel. stamel: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coarse wool fab- steeple headdress: See hennin. ric, usually red in color. Steinkirk: Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.) to Early Geor- stametto: See saia. gian (1700–1750 C.E.). United Kingdom. Worn from stamfortis: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Strong, ex- c.1692 to 1730, long man’s cravat, edged in lace, pensive fabric. and worn loosely knotted under the chin with the stamin: Coarse wool fabric, usually red. ends pinned or left loose. Named for the Battle of stammel: Coarse wool fabric, usually red. Probably the Steinkirk, August 1692. Worn by women with the same as stamin. riding habit. stomacher 279

Steinmarder: Germany. Stone marten. with an instep strap instead of a sole. Worn over finer Stella: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1850, taffeta pard- stockings when riding. essus trimmed with ruches. stirrup stockings: See stirrup hose. stem stitch: Diagonal, stepped stitches used for edges stithópano: Greece. Breast kerchief. and lines. Stival: Germany. Boot. stemma: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). stivale: Italy. Boot. Appearing around 430 C.E., variation on the diadem stivaletto: Italy. Bootee. flared out at the top and had chains of gold that hung stivali: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Lightweight, over the temples onto the cheeks. Later made with high, soft, summer boots usually black in color, al- gemstones mounted on it. though sometimes red. In France, were worn fitted stencil dye: A technique where stencils are used to re- to the leg; in United Kingdom, looser. tain undyed areas in the design. stivali grossi: Italy. Jackboot. stephane: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Woman’s tiara-like stoat: See stote. filet that was broad over the forehead and tapered stoca: Ireland. Stocking. on the sides. Originally it fitted the head; later ver- stocainn: Ireland. Gaelic word for stocking or hose. sions stood out from the head and were decorated stocainnis: Ireland. Gaelic word for stockings. with repoussé. stock: Broad band worn as neck- stephanie: See stephane. cloth, usually fastened in stephanos: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). back. Fabric diadem decorated with gems. Tied at the back stock buckle: Early Georgian of the head. (1700–1750 C.E.) to Crinoline Steppnaht: Germany. Backstitch. (1840–1865 C.E.). Buckle fas- stock sternstichl: See stirnbindel. tening the stock at the back of stethodesme: See apodesme. the neck. Often decorated in gold, silver, or even set steutelreecx: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. with jewels. Bunch of keys worn suspended from the waist. stock-drawers: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United stevige schoen: Holland. Brogue. Kingdom. Stockings. stibium: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Compound used Stöcke mit Seele: Germany. Gadget cane. for staining eyelids and eyebrows. stockinette: Knitted fabric made on circular machines. sticharion: 1. White linen ecclesiastical robe worn in the stocking-purse: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 Eastern Church. 2. Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Short- C.E.). Worn until 1820, small purse worn tucked sleeved jacket. through the belt or waistband. Usually made with a stickerei: Even weave braid with an embroidered, scal- pair of metal rings and decorated with beaded tas- loped, or notched edge. sels. See also miser’s purse. Stickereiapplikation: Germany. Tuck embroidery. stof: See tkanina. sticking-plaster dress: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). stofă: Romania. Cloth. In 1893, a woman’s tight black satin evening dress. stoffelkappe: Switzerland. Woman’s headdress. Stiefel: Germany. Boot. Stoffhut: Germany. Cloth hat. Stiefelette: Germany. Bootee. stoic: Ireland. Gaelic word for string of beads. Stielstich: Germany. Stem stitch. stola: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Typical gar- Stiful: Germany. Old High German term for boot. ment of Roman woman, similar to men’s tunica. stijf linnen: Holland. Buckram. Sleeved and worn over the tunica intima and stikhar: Russia. Robe worn in religious ceremonies. belted twice, one on waist and other on hips. It had stiliaga: (1960–1970 C.E.). Russia. A male cool . an insita, a panel, that hung from the belt in back stiog: Ireland. Gaelic word for a stripe on fabric. where it trailed to the ground. 2. Holland. Stole. 3. stiom: Ireland. Gaelic word for hair lace; ribbon; or belt. Italy. Stole. stiomag: Ireland. Gaelic word for small headband or stole: Liturgical scarf worn by the priest over the amict hair fillet. and under the chasuble. stìom-amhaich: Ireland. Scarf. stölebelte: Norway. Silver belt made of discs of silver- stìom-bhràghaid: Ireland. Neckband. gilt. stippels: Holland. Polka dots. stomacher: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United stirnbindel: Poland. Jewish woman’s forehead-band. Kingdom. V- or U-shaped ornamental chest piece Variously ornamented. worn with the doublet. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 stirrup hose: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– C.E.). Long elaborate panel in the center front of a 1660 C.E.). United Kingdom. Men’s long stockings bodice. 280 stomacher bodice

stomacher bodice: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United stringbean: (1950–1960 C.E.). A Kingdom. Popular in 1820s, woman’s bodice with re- long, narrow look in women’s vers (pelerine lapels) that ran from the shoulders to a fashion. V at the waist. Center of the V was filed with tucking. stringhe: Renaissance (1450–1550 stomper: Heavy shoe. C.E.). Italy. Ribbons or laces stone marten: Weasel fur that has a gray white underfur which hung decoratively from with dark brown guard hairs from the Martes foina. garments. storm serge: Hard, lightweight serge. striop: Ireland. Gaelic word for a stote: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 red striped camlet used for the C.E.). Method of sewing two pieces of fabric together best clothes. so that there is no visible seam. strips: Restoration (1660–1700 stövel: Sweden. Boot. C.E.). United Kingdom. Bands stovepipe hat: See chimney pot hat. of fabric, decorated or not, that støvle: Denmark. Boot. crossed the shoulders where straight English skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). they met in a V to fill in a low- Woman’s ankle-length day skirt with the fullness in cut bodice. stringbean the back made with gathers or pleats. Front and sides Strohhut: Germany. Straw hat. See also photospread fitted with darts. It had a 12-inch pleated muslin strój: Poland. Costume. (Women's Wear). balayeuse. strokleurig: Holland. Strawberry Dover Publications straight trousers: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle colored. (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Men’s trousers strømpe: Denmark. Hosiery. with legs an even width from top to bottom. strophion: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Early form of the straight waistcoat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle corset made of linen, wool, or soft leather. (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Tailoring term strophium: See strophion. referring to single-breasted, lapel-less waistcoat. strossers: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Men’s knee- or strammel: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Red. ankle-length undergarments cut on the cross-grain to Strampelhose: Germany. Rompers. provide a snug fit over the legs. strandschoenen: Holland. Sand shoes. strouding: United States of America. English scarlet red stranlyng: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Autumn fur or dark navy blue fabric. of the squirrel. štrumfhozne: See triko. strapontin: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). An 1885 bustle. strumpa: Sweden. Stocking. strapped pantaloons: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Strumpf: Germany. Hosiery. United Kingdom. Men’s pantaloons held down with Strumpfhalter: Germany. Suspenders. straps under instep. Worn fashionably from 1820s to Strumpfhosen: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 1850; unfashionably to 1860. C.E.). Germany. Literally “stocking breeches,” men’s strapul: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). breeches knitted so they might be as tight as possible. United Kingdom. Laced legging worn by both gen- stsepnoe: Russia. Chain-like lace. ders. stump work: Heavily padded or stuffed embroidery. strapula: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). stupa: 1. Bulgaria. Young married woman’s conical hat United Kingdom. Laced legging. wrapped with a red kerchief. 2. India. A cone-like Strasbourg cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in head ornament for men. 1881, fabric resembling corduroy without the plush sturraic: Ireland. Gaelic word for a cap worn turned to face. one side. Straussfeder: Germany. Ostrich plume. sturraicean: Ireland. Gaelic word for undress for a stravestito a la todesco: Italy. Literally “dressed as a woman’s head. German.” stuth: Ireland. Gaelic word for camlet. straw: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Light yellow. styfill: See boti. streachlan: Ireland. Gaelic word for garter. su kom: India. Laos. Man’s short coat. street sweeper: See balayeuse. sua hii: Laos. Woman’s long-sleeved long coat. streimel: Poland. Jewish man’s saucer hat with a flat fur sua saband thaut: Laos. Woman’s ankle-length coat brim worn on the sabbath. with inner and outer faces. strevíc: Czechoslovakia. Shoe. sua yan: Thailand. Talismanic handspun cotton jacket strilinn: Ireland. Gaelic word for garter. inscribed with a yantra. string glove: Glove crocheted or knitted in yarn. suaicheantas: Scotland. Crest badge worn on band of string tie: Very narrow necktie. boineid. sukno 281 sualef: Morocco. Jewish woman’s wig. suddhaota: India. A bleached cotton. sualef ez zoher: Morocco. Jewish bride’s miter trimmed suède: Leather with napped face. with pearls, jewels, and coins. suede cloth: Woven or knitted fabric finished to re- suarrow boots: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 semble suede leather. C.E.). Popular boot name for the Polish general. Went suede kid: Kid leather that is napped on the flesh side. out of fashion in 1802. suédoise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, deep blue gray. suba: See bunda. suela: 1. Ecuador. A shoe sole. 2. Elizabethan (1550– subermalis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Coat or gar- 1625 C.E.). Spain. Cowhide. ment worn under the cuirass. suéter: Portugal. Sweater. subha: Islamic rosary containing 39 or 99 beads. suffibulum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Large white sublagaculum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Loincloth, rectangle of fabric worn on the head, hanging down worn under the toga. Fashion taken from the Greeks, in the back and fastened under the chin with a who got it from the Egyptians. brooch. Worn by the vestal virgins and priests dur- subligaculum: See sublagaculum. ing sacrifices. sublime: See rose sublime. súfres: Greece. Pleats. sublom: See shubnam. sugar: Ireland. Gaelic word for a band for the neck. subnom: See shubnam. sugar-loaf bonnet: Renaissance subrichion: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Woman’s tunic. (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Man’s subucula: See tunica interior. high cap. suburban coat: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of Amer- suggan: 1. United States. Com- ica. Woman’s three-quarter-length . mon term for a long wool scarf. succinctorium: Band or scarf hanging from the girdle. 2. Ireland and Scotland. Com- Worn by the pope. mon term for a thick bed quilt succinta: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Wide belt worn or coverlet. by both genders to tuck up the garments at the waist suit: 1. Ensemble of garments for walking. for men consisting of waist- sucelaka: India. A generic term for costly garments. coat, jacket, and trousers in the sugar-loaf bonnet suchi: India. A needle. same material. 2. Late Geor- suci: India. Needles. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Set of matching cap, apron, sucihastah: India. A needle. handkerchief, and sleeve ruffles. sucisona: India. A silk embroidered with gold. suit of ruffs: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles sucisutra: India. Sewing thread. I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). United suckenie: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Sideless gown. Kingdom. Neck ruff with matching hand ruffs. suckeny: See surkney. suivez moi, jeune homme: See beau-catcher. suclat: India. European broadcloth. suji: Japan. Lines or stripes. sucna: Romania. Pleated homespun woolen skirt with súkenice: Slovakia. Girl’s fancy skirt. vertical stripes. sukhumasuttani: India. A fine thread. suculla ccahua: Bolivia. Worn by male children, a black sukienka: Poland. Frock. tunic interwoven with three vertical red stripes. sukkosa: Korea. Prepared or processed silk fabric. sudan: Korea. Wide white cuffs on a bride’s gown to śukla dhardīa: India. Sari with a simple border or white cover her hands. border. Sudanette: Trade name for pima cotton fabric in plain suklang: Philippine Islands. Bachelor’s basketry hat weave. shaped like a shallow basket and tied in back with a sudar: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew handker- looped cord. chief. Worn on neck, shoulder, or forearm. suklatin: See suclat. sudar sheal zero-othav: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). suklutun: See suclat. Hebrew kerchief for the arm. sukmán: Bulgaria. Closed A-line tunic made of heavy sudar shebetsavaro: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). He- fabric for winter and linen for summer. brew kerchief for the head. sukmanki: See kaftany. sūdārium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Literally sukne: Czechoslovakia. Skirt. “sweat cloth,” a small piece of embroidered linen, sukni: See suckenie. similar to the modern handkerchief. Used by men to suknia: Poland. Gown or coat. wipe perspiration from the face and hands. suknie: Poland. Clothing. suddha-ekavali: India. A pearl necklace with a gem at suknja: Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia. Skirt. the center. sukno: See tkan’. 282 suk’oot’u suk’oot’u: See sokch’ima. superfine: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late sul: Korea. Tassel. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Broadcloth made of me- suliya: Nigeria. Yoruba man’s lightweight agbada. rino wool. sulo bannang: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja dark blue bead. superhumeral: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 sulraeksu: See paji. C.E.). Wide jeweled collar worn by the ladies of the sultan sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). See sultana court. sleeve. superplie: Holland. Surplice. Sultana: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1853, mantle supertasse: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United with revers in front. Had full sleeves bowed at Kingdom. Underproper used to support the large elbow. ruffs. Sultana opera cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In supertotus: See balandrana. January, 1860, semicircular cloak with tasseled hood. supha-kamkha: India. A brocaded woolen stuff. Closed in front with loop and buttons. supparium: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Woman’s sultana scarf: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- short linen garment worn over the subucula. dom. Woman’s loose scarf of Oriental design worn suppléants: See appas postiches. over a canezou and tied below the waist. supportasse: See supertasse. sultana sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s surabhi: India. Well-fitted clothing. large hanging sleeve slit in the front. Popular with surah: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). India. Introduced in 1873, the casaque. soft and brilliant silk fabric, twilled on both sides. sultane: 1. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1866, surangi: See al. silk and mohair fabric, similar to alpaca, with al- surat: Low-grade cotton fabric. ternating stripes in plain or satin. 2. Plumes of the suravala: See coramo. purple gallinule, a sea bird. suravāla: See pyjamā. sultane dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- suravara: See ijara. dom. Introduced in 1877, woman’s princess style day suravarā: See pyjamā. dress with a scarf fancifully draped to one side. surc: See koteny. sultane jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- surcingle: Ecclesiastical belt or girdle worn with the dom. Introduced in 1889, woman’s sleeveless zouave. cassock. sulu: Fiji. Loincloth. surdut: Poland. Coat. See also suknia. suman: Ashanti. Amulet. surf satin: (1910–1920 C.E.). United States of America. sumane: Romania. Brown drugget coat embroidered Heavy quality silk taffeta used for bathing costumes. with woolen cord. surfle: Obsolete term meaning to embroider. šumbeqō: Ethiopia. Bronze. suria: Tunisia. Woman’s white or patterned slip worn šumboqō: See šumbeqō. under the mellia. sumi: Japan. Black. suriek: Borneo. Striped. sumitsubo: Japan. Dressmaker’s marking device. surihaku: Japan. Application of metallic foil on fabric. sunburst: Brooch with jewels set in radiating pattern. surik: Borneo. Stripes. suncobran: See kišobran. surjan: Indonesia. Man’s long sleeved jacket. sundown: Broad-brimmed sun hat. surkney: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Man’s loose sungkit: Borneo. Bone needle used for embroidery. cloak. Popular with shepherds and carters. sunglasses: Glasses with dark lenses. surmai: India. Navy blue. sun-gum: Korea. Pure gold. surowa bawelna: Poland. Cotton wool. sunkit: See sungkit. surpaish: See sarpech. sun-ray skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Accordion surpied: See soulette. pleated skirt. surplice: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Liturgical white śunthiā: See phutā lugā. linen robe with wide hanging sleeves. Knee or ankle suo: 1. Japan. A crested linen costume worn by the length. Worn instead of the alb over the cassock. samurai. 2. Japan. Red dye. surplice bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in suoyi: China. Palm-bark or straw rain cape. 1881, woman’s day bodice made with full gathers super tunic: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 from the neck over the bust. C.E.). 1. Man’s overgarment worn over the cote or surplice collar: Collar with extended neckline that over- tunic. Knee length, although ceremonial super tunics laps in front. were ankle length. Sleeves were most commonly surplis: France. Surplice. loose to elbow or wrist. 2. Woman’s loose garment surt: See pastura. worn over the kirtle or tunic. Long loose sleeves. surtout: Term referring to any man’s long cloak or coat. swing skirt 283 surtout àla Sultane: Directoire and First Empire (1790– swagger stick: Short military stick carried in hand. 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1802, trained overdress swallow’s nests: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Aus- worn over a white frock. tria. Small cap sleeves set in the armseye over the surtuk: Russia. From the French surtout, a frock coat. normal sleeve. They could be of contrasting fabric. surubuli: India. Red bordered sari. swallow-tail bangs: China. Woman’s bangs cut like the suruwali ya Kolombo: Swahili. Bill-bottomed trousers. tail of a swallow. suruwali ya uchinjo: Swahili. Literally “cut-off trou- swallow-tails: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- sers,” drainpipe trousers. dom. Man’s evening coat. survāla: See corano. Swami: Warp knit fabric of rayon and cotton. surveyor’s stick: Walking stick with a hidden pencil, swamy jewelry: India. Kind of gold and silver jewelry pen, and inkstand. covered with grotesque mythological figures. susae: See susi. swanbill corset: Bustle (1865–1890 susi: India. Cotton fabric with contrasting color stripes C.E.). United Kingdom. Intro- of cotton or silk. duced in 1876, woman’s long, suso: Japan. The hem or bottom edge of the skirt. back-laced corset with a long susomoyo: Japan. A design done diagonally across the metal busk in the center front to bottom of the skirt; a woman’s formal kimono. curve over the abdomen. susoyoke: Japan. Woman’s wraparound slip. swan’s down: Late Georgian suspender: One of pair of bands worn over shoulders to (1750–1790 C.E.) to Crinoline support trousers or skirt. (1840–1865 C.E.). Soft under- suspensor atletico: Spain. . plumage of a swan used to trim suspensores: Spain. Suspenders. dresses, make powder puffs, sussapine: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan pelerines, and muffs. swanbill corset (1550–1625 C.E.). Expensive silk fabric. swansdown: See swan’s down. Dover Publications suthila: India. Any type of cotton stuff. swanskin: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Crinoline sutra: India. A neck chain. (1840–1865 C.E.). Thick, twill weave flannel with a sutradharah: India. Thread. soft surface. sutrahara: India. A chain necklace. swar: Palestine. Simple copper bracelet. suvarna: India. Gold. swarry-doo: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, a suvarnapadi: India. A gold brocade or tinsel printed brightly colored twill weave silk fabric. stuff. Swatow grass cloth: China. Handwoven fabric of ramie suvasana: India. A splendid garment. fibers. suvasas: India. To be well dressed. sweater: (1890–1900 C.E.). Bohemia. Made from Scottish süveg: Hungary. Man’s high, cylindrical cap. Highland wool, a smooth white, black, or checkered suwak: Poland. Zipper. tricot blouse with a roller collar. suwet’o: Korea. Sweater. sweater girl bra: (1950–1959 C.E.). Woman’s bra suyacal: Guatemala. Rain cape. with stiffened cones held together with whorls of suzushi: Japan. Raw silk. stitching. sválltjá: Norway. Suede tunic. Swedish cuffs: Directoire and švarkas: Lithuania. Coat. First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). svārki: See svarkas. Deep cuffs with three buttons. svasatura di abito-sbieco: Italy. Bell shaped. Swedish hat: Large felt hat style svasthana: India. Loose trousers tied at the waist with popularized by the musketeers. silk tape. Inspired by the Swedish troops svatební roucho: Slovakia. Wedding attire. in the Thirty Years’ War. svechchhitika: India. Bracelet. Swedish lace: Sweden. Simple svetacinamsuka: India. A white Chinese cloth. torchon pillow lace. sviatocný kroj: Slovakia. Holiday costume. sweter zapinany: See welniana svila: Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia. Silk. kamizelka. svityancali: India. A white fabric. swiftlere: Byzantine and Roman- svyta: Ukraine. Man’s brown woolen cloth coat trimmed esque (400–1200 C.E.). United in black. Kingdom. Low slipper. Swedish cuff swadeshi: India. Indian-made cloth. swing skirt: (1930–1940 C.E.). United States of America. swagger coat: (20th century). Coat with a very loose Full circle or wide gored skirt popularized by teenag- body or a flared body. ers to wear when dancing to swing music. 284 swire swire: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Twist in embroi- synthesis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Tunic worn for dery. meals. Only worn in public during the Saturnalia. Swiss belt: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- syool: Korea. Shawl. dom. Fashionable in 1815 and 1816, revisited in šyras: Lithuania. Crepe; veil. 1860s, 1880s, and 1890s, woman’s waistband wider in syrma: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Long, trailing robe the center front where it pointed on top and bottom. worn by actors. After 1860s, sometimes laced in the center front. szafir: Poland. Sapphire. Swiss bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- szal: Poland. Shawl. dom. Woman’s velvet bodice with a Swiss belt and szary: Poland. Gray. worn over a sleeved chemisette. szkarlat: Poland. Crimson. See also purpura. Swiss cambric: Muslin or lawn. szkarlatny: Poland. Crimson. Swiss embroidery: Eyelet embroidery. szlafrok: Poland. Dressing gown. Swiss mountain hat: Roman- sznurowadlo: Poland. Shoelace. tic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced szpilka: Poland. Hairpin. in 1819, hat with soft brim that sztruks: Poland. Corduroy. drooped over the face. Trimmed szük gatya: Hungary. Fitted trousers. with ostrich plumes. szür: Hungary. Long white felt coat with full-cut swiss muslin: Thin, sheer muslin sleeves, wide lapels, and a broad sailor collar. It is with raised dots or figures. worn like a cape, being held in place across the chest switch: A length of hair, human with a decorative leather strap and large buttons. It or artificial, used to pad out, en- is often elaborately decorated with cotton or silk em- hance, or lengthen a woman’s broidery or applique in patterns of carnations, roses, hairstyle. or tulips. sworl: See swire. szür-kabát: Hungary. Shepherd’s szür with sleeves swyrell: See swire. which are used. switch syassu: Korea. Pleats. szürke: Hungary. Gray. Dover Publications šydas: Lithuania. Veil. szurtuk: Romania. Fabric. T

ta: New Zealand. Maori term meaning to net. tablier skirt: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- taahuka: Australia. Maori large inner garment. dom. Popular in 1850s and 1860s, skirt with de- taalapat: Thailand. Monk’s ceremonial fan. scending trim in center front to suggest a decorative taapahu: Australia. Maori dogskin cloak made by sew- apron. ing whole skins together. tablier tunic: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. taapeka: Australia. Maori bandolier made in tapestry. Popular in 1875, triangular overskirt with one corner taatara: Australia. Maori thick, warm cape decorated reaching the hem of the skirt in front and the others with short pieces of undressed flax. fastened to the basque of the bodice. taatua hume: Australia. Maori bleached flax or flax fiber tablion: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). belt with ends that taper to a point. Very elaborate decorative oblong or square patch on taawakawaka: Australia. Maori cloak with weft ends the front and back edge of the imperial mantle. Often highlighted. embroidered and jeweled. Color indicated status of tab collar: Standing band collar with a front opening. the wearer. tabard: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Ceremonial mili- taboret: Embroidery frame. tary coat with free hanging front and back and short tabouret: See taboret. wing sleeves. Worn primarily in tournaments. tabrizi: India. A silk or brocade fabric from Tabriz in tabardo: 1. See manto militar. 2. Spain. Tabard. Persia. tabaret: Strong silk upholstery fabric with satin stripes. taces: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Skirt of plate metal tabarete: Spain. Tabaret. reaching from the waist to mid-thigh. tabbaard: See tabberd. tache: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Clasp. tabbaert: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Tabard. tachi-kake: Japan. A trouser style. tabberd: Holland. Tabard. tackies: South Africa. Tennis shoes. tabbinet: See tabinet. tackover: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). United King- tabby: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Plain weave dom. Overlap of the pleat at the top of the back vent silk moiré taffeta. See also attaby. 2. See plain weave. of a man’s skirted coat. tabi: Japanese. Ankle-high, white tacley: China. Beads of all kinds. cotton stockings with a stiffened taenggi: Korea. Pigtail ribbon. sole and a separate stall for the taenia: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Headband or filet. large toe. t’aesahye: Korea. Silk shoes worn by upper class men tabie-nishiki: Japan. Japanese im- and boys. itations of European textiles. tafailah: See qatifah-i-purbi. tabi tabijn: Holland. Tabby. tafetá: Portugal. Sarsenet. tabine: See tabby. tafetán: Spain. Taffeta. tabinet: Ireland. Poplin fabric, sometimes watered. taffeta: Smooth, glossy, plain weave fabric that is the tablet: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. same on both sides. Has considerable body. Rare term used to refer to an apron. Derived from the taffeta coutil: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in French tablier. 1847, silk and cotton blend fabric with blue or lilac tablier: France. Apron. stripes on a white ground.

285 286 taffeta crape

taffeta crape: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). New taffeta tailleur: France. Tailor. with creped face. tāilliūr: Ireland. Tailor. taffeta d’Annecy: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- taillour: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) duced in 1862, cotton and wool blend fabric. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. taffeta de Suez: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced Middle English term for tailor. in 1862, thin cotton and wool blend fabric. tailored coat: (1910–1920 C.E.). Introduced in 1910, a taffeta lustré: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. woman’s coat cut in severe English cut. Always worn Lustring. buttoned. taffetaline: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1876, tailored suit: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). A woman’s form of mohair. jacket and skirt combination suit, cut in a mascu- taffetán: Ecuador and Guatemala. Taffeta. line line. taffetane: Ecuador and Guatemala. Taffeta. tailor’s goose: Heavy, pointed iron heated by setting on : France. Taffeta. a hot stove or radiator. taffetine: Plain weave, lightweight lining fabric. taisha: Japan. Brown. Taft: Germany. Taffeta. tai-shih: See daishi. tafta: 1. Turkey. Monochrome, lightweight, satin weave, taist: Ireland. Gaelic word for button. silk fabric. 2. See qatifah-i-purbi. tàiyángjìng: China. Sunglasses. tafuchóu: China. Taffeta. taj: 1. India. A small conical cap worn by Muslims. 2. tafzijde: Holland. Taffeta. Mohammedan. Tall, conical hat. tagal straw: Straw from Manila hemp. tāj: Arabia. Low crown or coronet. tagalsaek: Korea. Yellowish brown. tajehbaf: See qatifah-i-purbi. tagelmoust: Tuareg man’s headcloth. Usually blue or tajvu: India. A tattoo. white and is tied to cover the face. takai buriet: Borneo. Seat mat. tagikeri: Samoa. Dungarees. takajo-tabi: Japan. Literally “falconer’s tabi,” tabi with tagilmus: Algeria. Ten-foot-long strip of indigo blue hard soles so they may be worn without shoes. linen worn as a man’s turban. takan: See qatifah-i-purbi. taglioni: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. takaschiya: India. Long coat with a round skirt that is Man’s greatcoat, commonly double breasted, with tied on the right side. very large flat collar and wide lapels. The coat had takashimada: Japan. Formal bridal hairdo. a fitted waist with full, short skirts without pleats. takauchiyah: India. Unlined coat that ties on one Each side of the skirt had a cross or slit pocket. The side. sleeves had turned-back cuffs. The collar, lapels, and takelmi: Nigeria. Poor man’s sandals of undressed cow- cuffs were of quadrilled satin velvet. The entire coat hide or car tires. was edged in twill binding. It was named for the takenaga: Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. A broad band ballet-master Filippo Taglioni. used to fasten a woman’s hairstyle. Taglioni frock coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United takhfīfa: Arabia. Simple winding cloth. Kingdom. Popular from 1838 to 1842, a man’s single- takitaki: Australia. Maori single layer sandal made of breasted frock coat with short, full skirts. It had a wide Cordyline. collar and cape. The hips had slash or flap pockets. The takke: 1. Hebrew woman’s cotton bonnet. 2. Turkey. back vent was not pleated, but did have a tack-over. Skull cap. tagora: Mexico. Loincloth. tala: China. Slippers. tagulemust: Tuareg. A man’s veil worn at all times. talabanr: China. Wooden slippers; clogs. tahrireh: Palestine. Cotton cord used in embroidery. talabo: Indonesia. Flat copper armband worn by upper taifeid: Ireland. Gaelic word for taffeta. class Sa’dan-Toraja boys. taihakuzan: Japan. Literally “great white mountain,” talafa: Samoa. Side whiskers. ancient nishiki pattern. talama: Samoa. Black dye. taiko obi: Japan. Drum-shaped obi worn by married talapaga: India. Small piece of women. cloth worn as a headdress. tai-k’ou: See daikou. talar: Ankle-length robe. tail clout: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration talaria: Winged shoes or sandals. (1660–1700 C.E.). United Kingdom. Baby’s napkin or talaris tunic: Long-sleeved, long- diaper. girded tunic worn by women tail coat: Man’s full-dress coat. and elderly men. talaria tailasân: Arabia. In ninth century C.E., yellow Persian talavantika: India. Anantariya See also photospread mantle worn by Christians and non-Islamic believers. worn in a fan-shaped style. (Foot and Legwear). tanbal 287 talede: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja man’s penis support. Talma overcoat: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United See also tusuk. Kingdom. Introduced in 1898, a man’s raglan over- talee: See tali. coat with extra wide armseyes. talepā: India. Turban. talma Zuleika: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, a talepaga: See talapaga. taffeta talma with two lace flounces. It was trimmed talhakimt: Nigeria. Glass or agate amulet formed like with satin ribbon. a ring. talonera: Ecuador. The heel strap of a sandal. talhatina: Nigeria. Neck ornament. talpa: Italy. Mole. tali: India. Gold ornament worn on a slender cord about taluqdari cap: India. A black velvet cap with a pointed the neck. It is given to a bride by the groom in wed- front and back that are joined with a piece of fabric ding ceremony, similar to the wedding ring of the on the top of the head. Western World. See also talee. tamanco: Portugal. Clog, wooden shoe. tali bate’: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja headcloth. tamatis: Thong sandal with straw sole with rubber bot- tali ‘ele ‘ele: Samoa. Apron. tom. The thongs are made of velvet. tali katarrung: See tali tarrung. tamative: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in tali pakkaridi’: Indonesia. Plaited hairband. 1863, a light material similar to a heavy grenadine. tali tarrung: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja headdress in the Tamba cloth: Japan. Striped cotton fabric. It was first shape of fruit. See also tali katarrung. made in Saji-machi, in the Temba district, but it is talika: India. A single soled shoe. now made in many other places. It has an undyed talisman: Charm or amulet worn on person for pro- waste silk woof and a cotton warp. tection. tambour: 1. See farthingale. 2. A circular frame made of Talleyrand collar: A stand-up collar used on coats. See one hoop that fits inside another. It is used to hold also Robespierre collar. embroidery while it is worked. 3. Chain stitch em- tallien redingote: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United broidery on cloth or net. Kingdom. Introduced in 1867 by Worth, a redin- : Chain-stitch lace worked on a net ground. gote cut with heart-shaped neckline and a full back. tambour muslin: Plain weave cotton fabric. It was trimmed with a sash that bowed on the sides tambour work: Used to decorate machine net, a tech- with the ends hanging down and ending in bows. nique in which surface chain stitches are form with a It was made in a fabric to match the dress, or in hooked needle. black silk. tambourine bag: Round, flat handbag. tallith: Hebrew. Prayer shawl worn by men age 13 years tambouring: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to Crino- and up. It is made of silk or wool; in white, with black line (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular from 1780 to 1850, a or blue stripes across the ends. Silk talliths are 54–96 form of white-work embroidery done on a frame inches long and 36–72 inches wide; wool talliths are resembling a drum. It was done with a hook which larger. A wool tallith is made of two lengths sewn creates a continuous chain stitch. together with a stitching covered by a narrow band of tamein: Burma. Woman’s draped garment similar to silk ribbon that is woven with silver or gold. Indian sari. tallith katan: See arba kanphoth. tamentika: Tuareg. A man’s blue cotton cummerbund. talma: See poncho. tamise: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1876, a Talma cloak: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- soft wool fabric with a little silk woven in. dom. 1. Popular in 1850s, a man’s evening knee- tammy: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Fine worsted length cloak with a wide turned-down collar and a cloth, often with glazed finish. See also stamin. silk lining. It was named for a French actor of the tam-o’-shanter: Scotland. Cap with a tight headband Empire period. 2. In 1851, a woman’s large circular and a full, flat top. Traditionally topped with a large silk cape with no lining. pompon of heavy brushed wool. Talma lounge: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United tamoto: Japan. The bag-like pockets of kimono sleeves. Kingdom. Introduced in 1898, a man’s lounge jacket tampa: See touca. with raglan sleeves and a straight cut front. tampan: Indonesia (Sumatra). Small rectangular cer- Talma maltese: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). A 29-inch- emonial cloth. See also phaa chet naa. long talma, cut in a three-quarter circle and the hood tamra: India. Copper. cut bias. It buttoned up the front. Tamsui hat: Straw hat similar to Panama. Talma mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- tan: 1. Korea. Heavyweight, opaque silk fabric. 2. Yel- dom. Popular from 1850 to 1867, a circular velvet or lowish brown color. satin cloak, resembling a shawl. It occasionally had a tanasukha: India. A fine muslin. hood, cape or collar. tanbal: Korea. Bobbed hair. 288 tanch’u tanch’u: Korea. Button; shirt stud. tapisserie de petit point: France. Wall hanging worked tanch’u kumong: Korea. Buttonhole. in petit point. tanga: Portugal. Loincloth. tapiz: Ecuador and Guatemala. Tapestry. tangalia: India. A woman’s woolen loincloth worn by tappert: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Germany. A the Bharwad caste. man’s gown with the sleeves edged in fur. tangerine: Brilliant yellowish orange. taqiyeh: Palestine. A man’s white cotton skull cap worn tanggi: Borneo. Sun hat. under the libbadeh. tanggok: Borneo. Necklaces. taqsireh: Palestine. A woman’s expensive short jacket, tango corset: (1910–1920 C.E.). Short, lightweight corset usually lined with a bold checked cotton. It is a worn for dancing. square-cut, waist-length jacket with short sleeves. It tang-phuc: Vietnam. Mourning clothes. is made of broadcloth, felt, velvet, or silk. tanhwa: Korea. Shoes. tara: See taatara. taniko: New Zealand. Maori term for ornamental col- tarabulsi: Palestine. Woman’s colored sash. ored borders on fabric or garments. tarahara: India. A single strand of big pearls. tanjeeb: See tanjib. taralapratibandha: India. Pearl necklace. tanjib: India. Muslin. See also tanzeb. tarangaka: India. Ear ornament inset with rubies. tantoor: Syria. A headdress consisting of a 20-inch silver taratara: See taatara. horn and two veils. The horn is worn atop a snug- tarbi’ah: Palestine. Fine silk veil. fitting cap and tied to the forehead with two cords tarboosh: Arabia. Brimless felt skullcap of Greek origin. that hang to the ground, ending in tassels. A long tarbouch: Italy. Large, stiff, red or black fez decorated fringed veil hangs from the end of the horn and a with suede. second, thinner veil covers the face. tarbush istanbuli: Palestine. Man’s tantra: India. The warp of fabric. tall, stiff hat shaped like an in- tantu: India. Yarn or thread. verted flowerpot. It is worn by tanutra: India. A bodice. Ottoman officials, Turkish sol- tanzeb: India. Fine white cotton fabric; jacket. diers, and urbanites. tanzen: Japan. A cotton padded kimono worn in the tarbush maghribi: Palestine. winter months. Man’s red felt hat worn on top tao ‘ofu: Samoa. Waistcoat. of the libbadeh. t’ao t’ieh: China. Monster mask, a common embroidery tarbuzi: India. Bottle green. pattern. tarf: See turf. taonga: Samoa. Flax cloth. tarfe: Obsolete term for brim of hat. tàoshan: China. Pullover. targe: Scotland. The circular tàoxié: China. Overshoes. shield, ornamented with brass tarbush istanbuli tàoxiù: China. Oversleeve. studs, carried by the Highlanders. taozi: China. Silk ribbon; silk braid. tarha: Egypt. Woman’s head veil. tap shoe: Shoe with special metal toe and heel. tarlatan: Thin, loosely woven, transparent, slightly stiff- tapa: Polynesia. A cloth made from the pounded bark of ened muslin. the paper mulberry. See also siapo. Tarleton helmet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 1920s. tapa cloth: Fabric made from the beaten fibers of paper Named for Sir Banastre Tarleton, a helmet with a mulberry tree. leather skull, a peak, a puggaree-like sash on the bot- tapada: Peru. Woman’s skirt, cloak, and shawl worn to tom edge, and a fore-and-aft bearskin crest. completely cover the figure. tarong-bugalong: Philippine Islands. Long skirt of tapalo: Coarse fabric scarf worn in Spanish American pineapple cloth. countries. tarpus: Turkey. Woman’s tall, pointed cap. taparrabos: Spain. Loincloth. tarpya: India. A rough silk cloth. tap-de: Vietnam. Apron. tars: Obsolete silk fabric. tape lace: Any lace made mainly of tape. tarse: See tars. tapih: Java. A rectangular textile worn wrapped around tartan: Scotland. Twilled woolen or worsted plaid a woman’s hips. fabric woven in distinctive patterns and colors. It tapis: 1. Indonesia (Philippine Islands). Wide sash or was originally worn only by members of the clan girdle. 2. Sumatra. Woman’s heavy cotton sarong. who bore the name of the chief or were his blood tapisserie: France. Literally “tapestry,” a weaving in the relatives. tapestry technique. tartan velvet: Short-napped velvet patterned in a tartan tapisserie de broderie: France. Embroidered wall hanging. plaid. teagown 289 tartanella: Tartan plaid fabric made from a combination tatibin: Indonesia (Sumatra). Small, narrow ceremonial of cotton or linen and wool. cloth. tartarian: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced in 1823, tatquevluq: United States of America. Eskimo’s sacred a soft, light fabric that supposedly never creased. wooden mask. tartarin: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Cloth from Tar- : Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Introduced in sus that was very fine and costly. 1891, a vividly checked fabric similar to horse cloth. tartarine: Silk fabric made by the Tartars. tattersall vest: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United tartaryn: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Expensive fab- Kingdom. Popular from 1895 on, a man’s single- ric, composition unknown. breasted sport waistcoat in small checks. It had no tas van de Hooglanders: Holland. Sporran. collar, six buttons down the front, and four flap tasca: Italy. Pocket. pockets. Tasche: Germany. Pocket. tatting: Knotted lace worked with the fingers and a Taschentuch: Germany. Handkerchief. shuttle. tash: East Indies. Silk and gold or silver thread fabric. tatting lace: See tatting. tashashit: Skullcap with tassel. tattsuke: Japan. A style of trousers. tashka: Russia. Sabretache. tatua: New Zealand. Maori generic term for belts. tasiemka: See wstazka. tatua-pupara: New Zealand. Maori man’s five- to six- tāsile: See komānam. inch-wide belt of woven flax. tasna: Bosnia. Handbag. tau: Indonesia (Timor). Indigo dye. tassar: 1. India. A good quality fabric. 2. See qatifah-i- taulima: Samoa. Bracelet. purbi. taupe: 1. Very dark, warm gray. 2. France. Mole. tasse: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). One of overlap- tauri: New Zealand. Maori anklet or bracelet. ping plates forming the skirt in armor. tauri koomore: New Zealand. Maori term for a wrist or tasseau: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Triangle of fab- ankle band. ric, often black, that filled in the neckline. tautaliga: Samoa. Earring. tassel: See tasseau. tauvae: Samoa. Anklet. tasseled handkerchief: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). tavancher: France. Breton for apron. Pocket handkerchief trimmed with tassels at the cor- tavestock: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Broadcloth. ners. It often had fringed edge. tavlin: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew word for tasses: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Small rectangular clavi. plates worn over the thigh in a suit of armor. tawar: See qatifah-i-purbi. tasset: See tasse. tawdry lace: Obsolete name for lace or braid worn at tassettes: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration neck as tie. (1660–1700 C.E.). Steel pieces attached to the bot- tawney: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Yellowish tan color. tom of the corselet and worn to protect the thighs in Taxíria: Greece. Full, ankle-length, silk knickers. armor. tay áo: Vietnam. Sleeve. tasso: Italy. Badger fur. tayu-kanoko: Japan. Painted imitation of tied kanoko. tasuki: Japan. The cord used to tie up the kimono sleeves tayyet sunnára: Palestine. Woman’s round, cotton cro- and still allow the arms freedom of movement. chet cap. It is sometimes trimmed with glass beads or tàszli: Romania. Puckered collar. coins and is worn at home. tatamis: Thong sandal with a straw sole with a rubber tchapka: See czapka. bottom. The thongs are made of velvet. tche djenji: Timbuktu. A C-shaped anklet with knobs tatara: New Zealand. Maori term for a cape with a white on the ends of the C. ground covered on the outside with black dried and tchédik: Hebrew’s soft boots. curled flax. tcherkeska: Russia. Lightweight, full-skirted wool coat. tatas: See leading strings. tdinjok: Laos. Separately woven border attached to a tatbandpuri: See qatifah-i-purbi. woman’s sarong. tātē ukō: Ethiopia. Kafa king’s crown. tea jacket: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. tātēn dībabō: Ethiopia. King’s parasol of bamboo and Introduced in 1887, this jacket slowly replaced the green cloth with a bamboo handle. teagown in popularity. Fitted in the back and loose tate-nishiki: Japan. Nishiki with pattern woven in warp in the front, it had tight sleeves trimmed with lace. threads. tea rose: Dainty yellowish pink. tater: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance teagown: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. (1450–1550 C.E.). Phonetic spelling for the tetour, Loose dress worn without corsets. It was commonly a hood. worn with a lace and muslin mob cap. Originally 290 teakete

worn only by married women, in the 1880s it became stick that could be lengthened by pulling it out like an acceptable fashion for young ladies. a telescope. teakete: United States of America. Hawaiian term for telescope-crown hat: Hat with high draped crown re- jacket. sembling a section of a telescope. tear: Portugal. Weaver’s loom. telia rumal: India. A square double-ikat headcloth or tebenna: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). This Etruscan wrap loincloth. was a semi-circular cloak worn under one arm, over tellex: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Hair binding worn by the other shoulder or around the back. Commonly athletes. made of wool with colored borders. telpek: Turkmenistan. Man’s flamboyant cap shaped techeleth: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew word like a pillbox. It has a wide, turned-up brim. for the color sky blue. Made from a mollusk. tembe: See kere. tecidos: Portugal. Textiles. tembleques: Peru. Ornamental comb of very fine metal teck: See four-in-hand. threads which tinkle as they move. teddies: United States of America. See camibockers. temiak: Eskimo jacket or coat. teddybear coat: Winter coat of alpaca pile fabric. temple spectacles: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). teddy-bears: United States of America. See camibockers. Introduced in 1727 by Edward Scarlett, London opti- tegua: Buckskin sandal. cian, these spectacles were held in place with rigid teia: Portugal. Cloth; textile. sidepieces. teiliwr: Wales. Tailor. templers: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Ornamental tejadillo: See touca. bosses worn over the hair in chignons over the tem- tejano: Spain. Denim. ples. They were held up by a band circling the head tejedor: Ecuador and Guatemala. Weaver. across the forehead. tejer: Ecuador and Guatemala. To weave. temples: See templers. tejido: Ecuador and Guatemala. Fabric. templettes: See templers. tejido arrugado: Spain. Seersucker. tencel: (1990–1999 C.E.). A fabric that drapes like rayon tejido calado: Spain. Eyelet fabric. and takes dye well. tejido con pelo largo: Spain. Fleece. tene: See teniske. tejido de punto elástico: Spain. Rib knit. teneçir: Turkmenistan. Temple pendants that hang on tejido de punto liso: Spain. Jersey. each side of an unmarried woman’s face. tejido esponjoso: Spain. Terry cloth. : Canary Islands. Lace of wheel and circle tejido liso: Spain. Jersey. design. tejón: Spain. Badger fur. ten-gallon hat: Large, broad-brimmed cowboy hat. tekat menekat: Malaysia. Gold and silver embroidery tenggak: Ecuador. Necklace. on velvet and silk. tenida de gimnasia: Spain. Gym suit. tekhelet: Hebrew. Blue purple. teñir: Ecuador and Guatemala. To dye. tekko: Japan. A hand protector; essentially a mitten teniske: Bosnia. . with the fingertips cut off. tenisówski: Poland. Canvas shoes. tela: 1. Italy. Linen. 2. See paño. tennis cloth: United Kingdom. Bleached cotton, basket tela caucho: Ecuador. Synthetic fabric. weave fabric. tela cerata: Italy. Oilcloth. tennis flannel: United Kingdom. Lightweight, worsted, tela de algodón mercerizado: Spain. Tussore. twill weave fabric. tela de aspecto granulado: Spain. Granite. tennis shoe: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to present. tela de Jouy: Spain. Toile de Jouy. United Kingdom. Men’s soft-soled shoes invented for tela de lino: Italy. Linen cloth. playing tennis. In 1878, tennis shoes with India rubber tela grossolana: Italy. Lockram. soles were introduced for playing lawn tennis. tela para carpa: Spain. Canvas. tenugui: Japan. A headcloth. tela Tagliata: Italy. Cut linen edged with buttonhole tenzin-mage: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. A woman’s stitches and linked into a guipure lace. hairstyle. tela tirata: Italy. Drawn-thread work. tephillin: Hebrew. Two small leather or wooden boxes telar de otale: Guatemala. Woman’s hip loom. containing passages from the Pentateuch worn telegraph blue: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, a color strapped to forehead and left arm in obedience to similar to cadet blue. It was named for the blue tele- directions in the Pentateuch. graph paper used in France. terai hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. telescope parasol: Directoire and First Empire (1790– Introduced in 1880s, a riding hat for wear in tropical 1815 C.E.). Introduced in 1811, this parasol had a lands. It was made of fur or wool felt with a short three-fold linen button 291

crown, a three- to five-inch brim and a metal vent thaub: Turkey. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Woman’s through the crown for ventilation. knee-length, long-sleeved robe worn belted at the terbi’ a: Palestine. Common veil of white, light silk or waist. translucent cotton. It is worn over the shatweh. : Arabia. 1. Long or short sleeved robe. 2. General terciopelo: 1. Guatemala and Mexico. Rayon velvet. 2. work for a garment. Ecuador and Spain. Velvet. the: Vietnam. Silk; gauze. terciopelo acordonado: Spain. Gros velours. theke: Greece. Silk or gold bobbin lace. terciopelo aplastado: Spain. Crushed velvet. theo tie: Open throated, tongueless shoe. terciopelo chifón: Spain. Chiffon velvet. Thérèse: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Loose head- terciopelo con dibujo multicolor: Spain. Genoa dress shaped like a hood and worn over a tall bonnet. velvet. It continued in usage until 1840. See also Teresa. terciopelo de Utrect: Spain. Utrecht velvet. Thibet cloth: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in terciopelo en relieve: Spain. Raised velvet. 1874, a soft, thick flannel with long goat’s hair on the terciopelo labrado: Spain. Cisele velvet. face. Teresa: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Popular in Thibetine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1877, a fancy 1770s and 1780s, a ladies’ light gauze scarf worn over woolen fabric. the head. See also Thérèse. thicksets: Ireland. Coarse fustian with dense nap. tergal: Madagascar. Imported French polyester. thiers red: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1878, rich, dark terlik: Turkey. Woman’s soft leather indoor boots. garnet. terliz: Spain. Drill. thiet-hài: Vietnam. Tap dance shoes. terra-cotta: Red orange. thi-kính: Vietnam. Eyeglasses. terranine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1886, a shade of thirmā: India. White sheet worn by women as a wrap. brown. thistle: Reddish violet color. terre de Cuba: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- thistle-green: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1891, a dom. Warm tan color. new color. terre de Pologne: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. thistlewood: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Lightweight wood Deep shade of yellow, almost brown. with knots used for parasol handles. terre d’Egypte: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). France. thob: Palestine. Man’s plain, ankle-length shirt or tunic. Brick red. The sleeves are cut very full to the wrist and are tied terrendam: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 up with a shmar to keep them out of the way when C.E.). Introduced in 1806, an Indian muslin. working. The robe is worn hitched up in a leather belt. terrier overcoat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United thob al-khidmah: Palestine. Woman’s plain dress. Kingdom. Introduced in 1853, a man’s pilot coat. thob al-tal’ah: Palestine. Woman’s elaborately deco- terry cloth: Soft cotton fabric with uncut loops on both rated dress. sides, often used for toweling. thob basitah: Palestine. Woman’s simple dress. Terylene: (1940–1950 C.E.). First discovered in 1941, a thob mukhmal azraq: Palestine. Woman’s blue velvet polyester fiber produced in the United Kingdom. thob. terzi: See darzi. tholia: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Woman’s hat with tesashi: United States of American. Hawaii. Denim pointed crown and flat brim. elbow-length arm protector. thorakion: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). tesoura: Portugal. Scissors. Empress’s coat of arms. testière: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Metal thorex: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). Corselet of metal plates skull-cap. fastened on cloth worn tight over the tunic. tête de mouton: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). thorn: Common blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) often used France. Literally “sheep’s head,” a coiffure with for driving whips, walking sticks, and umbrella the hair arranged close to the head in small, tight handles. Natural knots are left on the wood. curls. thread lace: Linen lace. teud-bhràghad: Ireland. Collar. threde: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) tewke: See tuke. to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. textīle: See textum. Middle English term for thread. textum: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Cloth. three-decker: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. teybaraten djendji: Timbuktu. A prophyry ring worn Popular from 1877 on, a three caped ulster. above the elbow. three-fold linen button: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). thanapatta: India. Breast band. United Kingdom. Introduced in 1841 by John Aston, thanh-lam: Vietnam. Turquoise. a button covered with three layers of linen. 292 three-seamer

three-seamer: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- ticklenburg: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625– dom. Popular from 1860 on, a man’s round jacket 1660 C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Coarse with a center back seam and side seams (as opposed linen from Tecklenburg. to the traditional five seam coat). tie-back skirt: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- three-stories-and-a-basement: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). dom. Trained day or evening skirt with tapes sewn United Kingdom. Popular name in 1886 for the very into the side seams on the inside of the skirt. By tying high crowned ladies’ hats. these tapes together, the back was fluffed out and the thrown silk: Needled silk made into thread. front flattened, creating a hobble skirt. thrum: Extremity of weaver’s warp which cannot be Tierfibeln: (Fifth century B.C.E.). Austria. Brooches woven. with quadrupeds modeled in the round. thrum cap: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United tifa: Samoa. Mother-of-pearl. Kingdom. Cap knitted of thrum, popular with work- tiffany: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). 1. Thin trans- men. parent silk fabric. 2. Transparent gauze, muslin, or thrummed hat: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- cobweb lawn. than (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. A thrummed tifsireh: Palestine. Satin stitch. hat was made of felt or silk with a long nap. It was tige d’aillet: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, light replaced by finer felt hats in the 1560s. bronze green. thunder and lightning: Early Georgian (1700–1750 tight: Italy. Man’s morning coat. C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Worsted tights: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 warp and woolen weft serge made in glaring colors. C.E.). Term used to refer to evening pantaloons. See also German serge. tight-slacks: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. thung: Laos and Thailand. Shoulder bag. Men’s trousers that were very tight at the knees and thúy-ngoc: Vietnam. Emerald. loose at the hem. thymel: United Kingdom. Literally “thumb stall,” tignon: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of thymel is the source word for thimble. America. A New Orleans word for a headwrap. tí: China. Orange red color. tiin: Thailand. Decorative border of a woven textile. tì: China. Silk and cotton fabric. tiin sin: Laos. Supplemental lower skirt borders. tian ‘éróng: China. Velvet. tijajin d’mahduh: Morocco. Jewish woman’s coif of tian ze: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.). Wom- silver threads and cloisonné enamel. an’s festive headdress made of woven rattan or wire tikamist: Tuareg. A man’s long white cotton shirt. shaped like an inverted basket and covered with tikamist kore: Tuareg. A man’s embroidered indigo black gauze or silk net. It was trimmed with jeweled blue overgarment. ornaments. tiki: Australia. Maori woman’s sacred neck pendant. tianlán: China. Sky blue; azure. t’ikita: Bolivia. Octagon motif. tianqing: China. Reddish black. tikka: Arabia. Drawstring. tiao tuo: China. Jade bracelet. tikkeh: Palestine. The silk drawstring in sirwal. It is tiáoróng: China. Corduroy. often elaborately trimmed. tiara: Soft or metal crown in a narrow style. National tilari: India. A three-stringed necklace. headdress of southwest Asiatic nations. tilavasa: India. Brocade. Tibet cloth: Goat’s hair fabric. tilbi: Nigeria. A man’s long shirt that is open at the sides. Tibetisches Lamm: Germany. Tibet lamb fur. Tilbury hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- tibi: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular from 1840 on, dom. Popular in 1830s, a man’s small hat with a high the loop that fastened button to button at the top tapering crown, a flat top, and a narrow, round brim. of a coat instead of the usual button to buttonhole tile red: Bright red orange. closure. tilleul: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1877, light tibilaes: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). High leggings green. worn by huntsmen or soldiers. tilmatli: Mexico. 1. Cloak worn by the Tarahumara In- tibiteika: Uzbekistan. National symbol, a round, felt hat dians. 2. Aztec man’s mantle; basically a rectangle of with a scalloped edge. fabric. There were 54 different styles. ticket pocket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- tilter: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Bustle where shirring dom. Appearing after 1859, a small pocket for the rail that contained the springs was made of separate ticket above the right flap pocket on the overcoat. In piece of fabric than the rest of the bustle. It was fitted 1875, it was switched to the left side. In the 1890s, it to the figure with a belt. appeared on the lounge jacket on the right side. In tilting-helm: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Large hel- 1895, it appeared on morning coat. met worn over other armor at tournaments. tocapu 293 timbre: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). France. Skull of titian: Red or reddish brown. a helmet. titi-le-’au: Polynesia. A man’s apron of leaves from the timu: New Zealand. Maori term for a rough, strong, ti plant. serviceable cloak. tittirapattika: India. A shoe shaped like a partridge tin chiang chiang chau: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United wing. States of America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a Titus haircut: Short fuzzy haircut. slightly rough form of chau used for pants, bridal tiu camisa: Ecuador. A man’s handmade shirt. trousseaus, and birthday clothes. It was a very dark tjap: Indonesia. Fabric with block-work print made by purplish red color. men. tinaku azul: Ecuador and Guatemala. Indigo. tjeld: Norway. Woman’s shawl, usually striped. tinbiteh: Palestine. Zigzag applique. tjindai: Indonesia. Sa’dan-Toraja term for batik cloth. tingmiak: Denmark. Blouse. tkan’: Russia. Cloth. tini: See kochi. tkanina: 1. Poland. Fabric. 2. Bosnia. Fabric. tiñiska: Ecuador and Guatemala. Dyed. tkanina dziana: Poland. Jersey fabric. tinsel printing: India. Patterns created with gold pow- tkanitsa: Bulgaria. Belt worn over the waistband. It is wo- der mixed into roghan. ven in multicolored wool with geometric ornaments. tinte: Ecuador and Guatemala. General term for dye. tl’aakal: Navajo. Skirt. tintillano: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Italy. Woolen tlahuiztli: Aztec. Fitted garment worn by warriors. cloth dyed before it is spun. tlws: Wales. Jewel. tintoriado: Ecuador and Guatemala. Dyed. to hoá-hoc: Vietnam. Artificial silk. tinturar: Ecuador and Guatemala. To dye. tobacco cloth: Loosely woven cotton fabric similar to tinturero: Ecuador and Guatemala. Dyer. cheesecloth. tippet: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Streamer that toban: Ireland. Gaelic word for cowl or hood. hung from the sleeve of a garment. 2. Renaissance tobe: 1. Africa. White cotton shirt that reaches the (1450–1550 C.E.). A short shoulder cape. 3. Romantic ankles. A man’s tobe is blue cotton, while a woman’s (1815–1840 C.E.). Flat collar with long ends that hung is blue, black, or red. 2. Ethiopia. A cotton sheet worn down to the waist in front. It was made of silk or as a wrap. velvet and fur. tobi: Nigeria. Yoruba woman’s strip of cloth worn tippling cane: Cane with a concealed flask. pleated from waist to knees as an undergarment. tiputa: Polynesia. A woman’s serape-like garment that tobin: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration is 5 feet by 30 inches. (1660–1700 C.E.). Striped wool or silk fabric made tira: Ecuador. Commercial tape trim. in Norwich. 2. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to tira dorado: Ecuador. Gilt thread. Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Twilled silk similar tiracolo: Portugal. Shoulder belt; baldric. to florentine. 3. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle tirantes: Spain. Braces; straps. (1865–1890 C.E.). Heavy twilled silk. tiraz band: India. An ornamented braid that is used to tobine: See tobin. decorate the upper part of the sleeve. toboggan: Norway. Man’s black coat tirchha: India. Striped fabric used for trousers. trimmed with black velvet with a high collar and tiretaine: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renais- silver buttons down the center front and around sance (1450–1550 C.E.). Fine wool fabric, often scarlet the cuffs. colored. 2. France. Linsey-woolsey. toboggan cap: Long knitted cap worn when tobogan- tirita: India. Woman’s diadem. ning. tirkô: Madagascar. T-shirt. toby ruff: Gay Nineties (1890– tirodhana: India. Woman’s marriage dress; a long cloth 1900 C.E.). United Kingdom. wrapped around the body and worn girdled. Woman’s chiffon or lisse neck tissu: See étoffe. ruff gathered into two or three tissu satiné: France. Sateen. layers and tied at the throat tissue: Any lightweight open fabric. with a ribbon for day wear. tissue d’Alma: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, a toca: Spain. Wimple. new fabric. toca de camino: Renaissance toby ruff tissue gingham: Lightweight semitransparent gingham. (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Trav- tissue taffeta: Fine lightweight taffeta. eling headdress. tissutier-rubanier: France. Maker of , trims, tocado: Spain. Headgear. and ribbons. tocapu: Bolivia. Incan waist high row of ornamental titi: Polynesia. A girdle of plant leaves. squares on ccahua. 294 tocco tocco: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Italy. Bright red cap toga virilis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Worn by with turned up brim worn by Florentine citizens. young males, aged 14 to 16, an all-white wool toga. tochtlatten: Holland. Muttonchop whiskers. toghe: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Italy. Man’s shoul- tock: See toque. der cape reaching to the feet and worn gathered at tocoyales: Guatemala. Colored yarns woven into wom- the breast. en’s hair. toi: See banat. tocuyo: Peru. Coarse cotton cloth. tøi: Denmark. See klœde. toda: India. Anklet. toil colbert: France. Basket cloth. Todenkopf: Germany. An armored headpiece with toile: See étoffe. piercing over the eyes, nose, and mouth in the man- toile à gros poil: France. Crash. ner of a skull. toile cirée: France. Oilcloth. toer: Holland. See poffer. toile d’Alsace: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1876, a soft, toering: South Africa. Pagoda-shaped cane hat. unglazed cotton fabric. toffel: Sweden. Slipper. toile de jouy: Literally “cloth of joy,” an elaborate de- tøffel: Denmark. Slipper. sign on cotton, linen, or silk. toga: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Basic garment that toile de lin: France. Linen. was the signature garment of the Roman citizen. It toile de religieuse: France. Nun’s veiling. was characteristically white and varied in size from toile de soie: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1898, a its beginnings in 200 B.C.E. (16’ by 6’) to its largest thick silk and cotton blend, thick ribbed fabric shot size in 400 C.E. (21’ by 6’). It was cut in a semi-circle with two colors. and worn draped around the body in a variety of toile de Valeuce: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, a styles. It finally went out of fashion because of its poplin-like fabric. inconvenience due to size and elaborate drapery. 2. toile d’esprit: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, a delicate Poland. Judge’s robe. spotted lace. toga candida: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Plain toile grossière: France. Lockram. bleached white wool toga worn by candidates for po- toile Nankin: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1863, a litical office. It was sometimes whitened with chalk. mixed unfigured fabric for travel, generally in brown toga contabulatum: See toga umbo. or gray. toga gabiana: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Tight-fitting toile peinte: France. Painted cotton fabric. toga worn with one fold over the head and the other toilet: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Loose linen end around the hips to form belt. wrapper worn by men when being shaved. 2. Early toga palmata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Toga em- Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). A loose wrapper worn by broidered with a palm branch pattern and worn only women when having their hair or wig styled. for special ceremonies. toilet cap: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration toga picta: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Official toga (1660–1700 C.E.). Man’s plain nightcap worn when of the emperor; a purple toga embroidered in gold. being barbered. toga praetexta: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Toga toilinet: Wool weft and cotton and silk warp fabric used worn by senators, some officials, and priests. It had a for waistcoats. purple band woven on the edge. toilinette: See toilinet. toga pulla: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Toga worn toilonette: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). for mourning or sacrifice. It was black, dark gray, Introduced in 1810, a fine wool fabric similar to me- or brown. It was worn by accused persons and the rino. lower classes. toise mouvante: France. Telescopic measuring cane. toga pura: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Worn by Ro- tok: France. Breton for hat. man citizens, a toga made of natural-colored wool t’okbaji: Korea. Bib. with no ornamentation. tokeine: United States of America. Hawaiian term for toga sordida: See toga pulla. stockings. toga : Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Worn by eques- toley: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Scarlet. trian knights, a small toga with a red or purple stripe. t’oljanggap: Korea. Fur gloves. toga umbo: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Ordinary toga toll-cnaip: Ireland. Gaelic word for buttonhole. with a red or purple band that was popular toward toloboni: Romania. Boots. the end of the second century C.E. It was worn draped tolomi: Timbuktu. A spiral shaped gold earring. so as to create a pocket or pouch in front. It became t’olshil: Korea. Woolen yarn. fashionable with the high dignitaries in the end of the tolsil: Korea. Worsted. second century C.E. t’ol-sil: Korea. Woolen yarn. toran 295 toma: Ashanti. Waist beads. fitted boot with buff or white leather tops. tombeaux: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States top button: Button with only the face gilded. of America. The distinctive design on the chest of a top frock: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Worn from 1830 Zouave’s jacket. on, man’s overcoat cut like a frock coat. It was com- tombodama: Japan. Complex multicolored glass beads. monly double breasted. tombolo: Italy. Lace-pillow. topas: Ireland. Gaelic word for topaz. tom-bons: Afghanistan. Cotton trousers cut very full in topaz: 1. Semiprecious stone of varying shades of yel- the waist and hips and tapering to a snug fit at the low. 2. A clear brown. ankles. topaza: See kopako. tonaca: See tunica. topazo: See kopako. tonach: Ireland. Gaelic word for garment. topazon: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Chrysolite. tonder lace: Denmark. Drawn work lace on muslin. topee: 1. Pith hat. 2. See topi. toneelkijker: Holland. Opera glasses. topi: 1. India. Generic term for a hat. 2. Nepal. Man’s tong xiu kai: China. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern flat, woven wool hat with a round rolled brim. dynasties. Tubular mail coat made of scale- or shell- topiwala: India. Literally “hat man,” an Indian term shaped pieces. It was joined at the sides with two used to describe a European (as opposed to pagri- tubular sleeves. wala, a turban man). tongbok: Korea. Winter clothes. topo: Spain. Mole. tongs: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Late Georgian topola: Nigeria. Yoruba woman’s expensive crimson (1750–1790 C.E.). United States of America. Coarse cloth with perforated edges that is used as a bridal cotton or linen overalls. cloth. tongue pump: (1910–1920 C.E.). Introduced in 1914, a topper: Woman’s mid-thigh length overcoat. colonial pump with no throat ornament. topuni: New Zealand. Maori term for a cloak of the tonlet: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 skins of black haired dogs. C.E.). Horizontal band used to toque: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) and Elizabe- form a short armored skirt. 2. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Woman’s head scarf or coif. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) and 2. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Worn from 1815 to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). A 1820, a triangular frame over which the woman’s short armored skirt. hair was arranged. 3. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). tonnag: Scotland. Tartan square Snug turban shaped hat worn outdoors or for worn by women over the shoul- evening. It could be made of silk, satin, or straw. tonlet ders and fastened on the breast. 4. Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). (15th and 16th century) tontillo: Elizabethan (1550–1625 Soft, draped, snug woman’s hat. It was sometimes See also photospread (Armor). C.E.) to Restoration (1660–1700 trimmed with flowers or feathers. 5. See tuque. Dover Publications C.E.). Spain. Heavy farthingale of toque à la Basile: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). steel hoops. It was replaced in the France. Woman’s hat style. late 17th century with a lighter version. toque à la Grande Pretesse: Late Georgian (1750–1790 toocke: See toque. C.E.). France. Woman’s hat style. toog: Holland. Cassock. toque à la Susanne: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). toopuni: Australia. Maori dog- France. Woman’s hat style. skin cloak with dark body and toque à l’Iphigénie: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). white hair on the side and neck France. Woman’s hat style. borders. toque de fourrure: France. Busby. toorua: Australia. Maori two- toquet: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s small satin layer sandal of Cordyline. or velvet toque with a small brim turned up in front toothpick: Bustle (1865–1890 and trimmed with an ostrich feather. It was worn for C.E.). Extremely pointed toe of evening on the back of the head. man’s shoe. toquette: France. High crowned bulky turban. top: See toupee. toque-turban: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Popular in top boot: 1. Late Georgian (1750– 1840s, a woman’s turban shaped like a toque and 1790 C.E.). Boot made from a black worn for evening. leather with the flesh side down. It toquilla: Fiber used in Panama hats. had a strap around the knee. 2. Ro- toraco: (1920–1930 C.E.). A man’s sleeveless shirt. mantic (1815–1840 C.E.) through toran: India. A fabric door hanging; long embroidered top boot Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Snugly flap on the lower edge of a helmet. 296 tora-tora tora-tora: Indonesia. Necklace of crocodile’s teeth worn touret de nez: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). France. by Sa’dan-Toraja hunter. Band of fabric attached to the earflaps of the hood torchon lace: Coarse, durable bobbin lace of linen or and covering the eyes. It had a pane of crystalline al- cotton. lowing the wearer to see. It was worn in winter. toreadoll pajamas: (1960–1970 C.E.). United States of tourie: A tuft or small pompon on the top of a cap or America. Woman’s sleep pajamas with mid-calf- bonnet. length pants. tourmaline: Semiprecious stone varying from red to toreador hat: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). Woman’s green. circular, shallow crowned hat of felt or straw. It was tournure: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). worn with a net. Bustle made with steel springs toreador pants: (20th century). Women’s pants snug- placed inside the shirring fitting to the knee where they button. around the back of the petti- torebka damska: Poland. Handbag. coat. The term was commonly t’orot: Korea. Fur (woolen) garment. used as a polite term for the torque: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Necklace in the bustle. tournure form of an ornamented circle. tourterelle: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- torquēs: See monīle. dom. Mushroom brown. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 torsade: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. Introduced in C.E.). Turtledove color. 1840, a twisted fringe trim. 2. Twisted or braided tovaglia: 1. See bavolet. 2. Italy. Woman’s folded head- coronet of velvet or tulle with long lappets for eve- dress of white linen. ning wear. It was introduced in 1864. tow: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United States of Amer- tortoiseshell: Brownish yellow, semi-transparent turtle ica. Rough finished fabric. shell once used for accessories. Now banned in the tow cloth: First Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). United States United States of America where a faux tortoiseshell of America. Rough linen fabric made from short fi- of plastic is used. bers remaining from combed flax. toruphulli: India. Lemon yellow. town blouse: (1920–1930 C.E.) Long, V-necked, short torzal: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Cord. sleeved overtunic popularly worn with suits. tosaek: Korea. Pink. toyama: Japan. Literally “distant mountain,” type of tosca net: Firm, durable net. kesa decorated with cloudlike patterns in patchwork toshikhana: India. Storehouse seal used to mark backs and stitches. of chintzes used in India. toyo: Shiny, rice-paper straw. totnamaksin: Korea. Patten. tozali: Nigeria. Powdered antimony used as an eye totoga: Samoa. Accessories. shadow. totsin: Korea. Overshoe. traad: Denmark. Thread. tot’urak taenggi: Korea. Woman’s hair ribbon. This trabea: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). style was adopted from the Chinese. Brocaded scarf worn by consuls in Basilean period of tóu jim: China. Curved neck opening on a gown. the Byzantine. tou tu: See doudu. : Austria. General term referring to folk dress. touaille: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). France. Soft wimple. tråd: Sweden. Thread. touca: Portugal. Hood. Trafalgar dress: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 toujin: China. Scarf. C.E.). Named for the Battle of Trafalgar in 1806, a toupee: 1. Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late Geor- white satin trimmed with silver. gian (1750–1790 C.E.). Roll facing the back on the Trafalgar turban: Directoire and First Empire (1790– forehead of a man’s wig. 2. Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Named for the Battle of Fringe or forehead frizz of fake hair. Trafalgar in 1806, a woman’s evening turban embroi- toupet: See toupee. dered with the name of Nelson. tour de cheveux: France. Fake hair worn on the front of Träger: Germany. Braces. the head. traguardo: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Visor. touret: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Elizabethan traheen: Ireland. Soleless stocking. (1550–1625 C.E.). Originally woman’s veil covering trahilia: Greece. Dickey. the forehead. Later it was a mourning headdress trailer thread lace: Czechoslovakia. Bobbin lace made consisting of a veil in two pieces; one piece covering from very fine flaxen thread. the top of the face, the second covering the chin (later traje: Portugal. Dress; clothes. called the barbette). In the 16th century, the term re- traje de baño: Spain. Swimsuit. ferred only to the edge of the veil. traje de baño de dos piezas: Spain. Bikini. triveni 297 traje de baño de una pieza: Spain. Maillot. trews: Scotland. Snug-fitting breeches with stockings traje de novia: Spain. Bridal gown. attached. traka: See vrpca. triangle fold: Handkerchief folded so that only one cor- trancinha: Portugal. Narrow braid. ner shows out of a pocket. trang bong: Vietnam. Pure white. tribon: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Small oblong cloak trang nõn: Vietnam. Very white. worn by Spartan adult males (age 12 and over), often transformation: (1910–1920 to 1920–1930 C.E.). Worn as the only garment. 1914–1927, a natural-looking wig worn by women tricô: Portugal. Stockinet; jersey. with thinning hair. tricolette: Knitted rayon, silk, or cotton. Fabric similar transparent velvet: Rayon fabric with rayon or silk to jersey cloth. back, usually crush-resistant finish. Transparent tricolina: Portugal. Kind of poplin. when held to light. tricorn: Three cornered hat with upturned brim. trapeze: (1950–1960 C.E.). United States of America. tricornio: Spain. Tricorne. Introduced by Yves St. Laurent in 1958, a woman’s tricorno: Italy. Tricorne. short dress with free tent-shaped back and high tricot: Soft, ribbed fabric. belted front. tricot de Berlin: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 trappers: See tappert. C.E.). Introduced in 1808, a very light knitted fabric trapphant: See tappert. similar to cotton gauze. trapuntato: Italy. Quilted. tricota: Portugal. Tricot. trapunto: A dimensional design created by parallel tricotine: Soft, firm worsted fabric similar to gabardine. stitches that are stuffed with yarn or batting. trieu-phuc: Vietnam. Court dress. traquenard: See paniers. trikarnas: India. Man’s earring made of three interlock- Traue: Germany. Mourning. ing rings. Trauring: Germany. Wedding ring. triko: Bosnia. Tights. trawerbandes: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restora- Trikot: Germany. Tricot. tion (1660–1700 C.E.). Mourning bands. trilby: (1930–1939 C.E.). United treble ruff: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 States of America. Man’s un- C.E.). Worn in 1813 and later, a ruff made from three lined felt hat. full layers of pointed lace or sheer muslin edged with Trilby hat: Gay Nineties (1890– lace. It fastened at the back of the neck. 1900 C.E.) to present. United treille: Belgian name for ground. Kingdom. Man’s soft, black felt treillis: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Buckram. hat named for the hat worn by trilby tremolanti: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Small Beerbohm Tree when he played Svengali. pieces of decorative work often used on head- trim insertion: Embroidered lace or fabric in which a dresses. ribbon passes through vertical slits. Tremont hat: (1940–1950 C.E. to 1950–1960 C.E.). Worn trimming à la greque: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1947–1952, a man’s hat with a tapered crown, center France. Introduced in 1862, a form of key pattern in crease, and a narrow brim. ruched ribbon. trench coat: Loose, rainproof overcoat with many pock- trina: Italy. Originally a three pointed lace; today it re- ets and flaps. fers to any lace. See also merletto. trencher hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 trinzale: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Fine cloth C.E.). Introduced in 1806, a woman’s silk hat with worn over the hair. a triangular brim that rose to a point in the center tripe: Obsolete term for fabric woven like velvet. front. triphalaka: India. Necklace of three gems or a gem set trenerka: Bosnia. Sweatshirt. in three or five gold leaves. trepats: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Perforated. triple ruff: See treble ruff. tresse: France. Plait. triple voile: See ninon. Tresse: Germany. Galloon. tripoline: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1874, a tressoir: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Golden plait of twilled satin turc. silk worked with metal and gems. trip-sammet: Switzerland. Mock velvet. tresson: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Headdress or triubhas: See trius. caul of net, often ornamented. triubhsair: Ireland. Gaelic word for trousers. tressour: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic trius: Ireland. Close-fitting, ankle-length pants with (1350–1450 C.E.). Chaplet of gold or material. strap under the instep. Some end above the knees. treugolka: Russia. Tricorne. triveni: India. Necklace made of three strings. 298 trocadero

trocadero: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. trou-trou: France. Trim insertion. Orange color. trouwring: Holland. Wedding ring. troche: Button set with three or more jewels. trovrec’h: France. Breton for bracelet. tro-c’houzoug: France. Breton for necklace. trowses: See trouses. Troddelchen: Germany. Tassel. trowsus: See llodrau. troighthíní: See mairtíní. trrsa: India. Necklace made of three strings. Trolldals-trøya: Norway. Literally “Troll Valley coat,” tru: Vietnam. Military helmet. man’s red, double-breasted short coat with long trúc-bâu: Vietnam. Calico. sleeves and wide revers. truffe: See truffeau. trollekant: Simple bobbin lace made with a thick gimp truffeau: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). False hair or thread. pads used to fill out the natural hairline. May also trolley lace: English bobbin lace. have referred to ornaments of gold to wear on a trollopee: Obsolete word for negligee. necklace. trollopée: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). France. truis-bhràghad: Ireland. Gaelic word for necklace. Long, flowing gown worn open in front and drawn trunk hose: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Upper hose up in back. that extend to the upper thigh. trolly cap: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United King- trurng sáo: Vietnam. Light blue colored. dom. Woman’s indoor cap trimmed with trolly lace. trus: Ireland. Gaelic word for belt or girdle. trolly lace: See trolley lace. trusgan: Ireland. Gaelic word for clothes or a suit of clothes. trompeurs: See liars. trusses: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United Kingdom. Tropenhelm: Germany. Sun helmet. Tight venetian breeches. tropenhelm: Holland. Pith helmet. trutag: Ireland. Gaelic word for wet weather cape. troqilla: Bolivia. Sombrero band. trykotaze: Poland. Hosiery. trotcozy: Scotland. Cowl-like wrap used to cover the trykoty: Poland. Tights. head and shoulders while riding. trzewik: Poland. Shoe. trotteur: (1900–1909 C.E.). Introduced by Paul Poiret, a tsala: Nigeria. Trousers with a wide drawstring waist walking skirt above ankle length. and long narrow legs. trouse: Trousers, trews, or knee-breeches. tsan: See zan. trouser press: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United tsangiá: Greece. Leather boots lined with wool. Kingdom. Set of two long flat boards between which tsarvouli: Bulgaria. Leather sandals. a pair of trousers was laid. Boards were tightened to- tsavága: Norway. Red, yellow, and green vuoddaga gether, thus creasing the trousers fashionably down that end in tassels. the front of the trouser leg. tsaxínia: See Taxíria. trouser stretcher: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- tselévo: Greece. Dirty stain. dom. Appliance used to stretch the leg of trousers tsemberi: Greece. A woman’s triangular scarf with a when they were not being worn. One type consisted rolled section in front. of an oblong steel loop placed in the end of the tsepen: Bulgaria. Satin stitch. trouser leg. Another form was a wooden frame that tshapan: Hungary and Turkestan. tightly held each end of the garment and stretched it Kandys-type garment. lengthwise. tshoga: Punjab. Kandys-type gar- trouserettes: Bloomers. ment of brown camel wool. trousers: First worn by the early horse-riding steppe tsípes: Greece. Large pins for the people, introduced to Western world by Italians in headdress. tshapan 16th century. They were accepted as informal dress tsithsith: Hebrew. Tassels. Re- in the Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.). They became a garded as sign of orthodoxy. part of semi-formal dress around 1815 and became tsitseróña: Greece. Long, red, silk worn commonly after 1830. kerchief. trouses: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Restoration tsubo-ori: Japan. Karaori kosode (1660–1700 C.E.). Common name for men’s under- worn with the hem tucked into garment (drawers). the hakama. tshoga trousseau: France. Household linens to accompany the tsujigahana: Japan. Popular in the bride. late 16th century, the kosode style. troussoir: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Hook used to tsumugi: Japan. Handspun silk fabric; pongee. lift the long gowns worn by women. tsupári: Greece. Red fez. troussoire: See chatelaine. tsupráci: Greece. Silver belt buckle. tundra 299 tsurápe: Greece. White cotton bridal stockings. tu-hou: New Zealand. Maori term for a rude apron of tsuzure-nishiki: Japan. Early tapestry-weave brocade, shrub leaves worn by priests. sometimes with touches of gold. tuichje: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Items tsuzure-ori: Japan. Literally “vine weaving,” tapestry worn on the chatelaine. weave. tuikkoji: Korea. Floral motif hairpins. tti: See ribon. tuil-aodach: Ireland. Gaelic word for apron. ttisnu: Bolivia. Woven strap on ch’uspa. tuille: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Hinged steel ttoljam: Korea. Woman’s hair ornament of gilt metal, plates attached by straps to the tasses in medieval semi-precious stones, pearls, and cloisonné. Worn in armor. They helped to protect the thighs. sets of three. tuillinn: Ireland. Gaelic word for canvas. ttuggong: See moja. tuithoed: Holland. Poke bonnet. tu kartu: New Zealand. Maori term for a woman’s belt tujurka: Russia. Generally leather, a casual jacket. or waist-girdle of 10 or 12 plaited strands of sweet Tukanitsa: Bulgaria. Man’s patterned, checkered, or grass. striped waistband worn over a long coat or under a tuaka: New Zealand. Maori term for feather quills used short jacket. as needles. tuke: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Renaissance tuapora: See pora. (1450–1550 C.E.). Canvas or a similar fabric. tūba: Lithuania. Felt. tukula: Zaire. Powdered camwood which is mixed with tubao: Philippine Islands. Turban. water or oil to use as a cosmetic. tubayt: Palestine. Cotton sateen. tul: Spain. Tulle. tubbeck: Burma. Woman’s sash, usually red. tulakoti: India. Heavy anklets with enlarged ends at tubsi: Palestine. White fabric with two red silk or cotton their meeting point. stripes on the border. tulapansi: India. A lightweight cotton from central India. tubular necktie: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United tulapunnika: India. A shoe padded with cotton wool Kingdom. Patented in 1852, a necktie woven in a for warmth. tube. tulband: Holland. Turban. Tuch: Germany. Woolen cloth. tule: Holland. Tulle. tüchli: Switzerland. White church headdress. tulip collar: Roll collar, often with petal effect. tuck: See toque. tulis: Indonesia. Hand-drawn form of batik done by tuck embroidery: Embroidery made by applying one women. fabric to another with different stitches. tulle: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.) to present. France. tucked skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United Fine meshed net first made by machine in 1768 in Kingdom. In 1895, a woman’s day skirt with a front Nottingham. It was named for the city Tulle, first wide box pleat, pleats in the back stiffened with place it was manufactured. horsehair, and side pleats. tullmas: Bolivia. Braid ties. tucker: 1. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration tulup: Russia. Long sheepskin coat. (1660–1700 C.E.). Narrow piece of cloth used to fill tuly: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan (1550– in the décolletage of a woman’s gown. 2. Early Geor- 1625 C.E.). Silk or thread fabric. gian (1700–1750 C.E.). White trim on the neckline of tuman: Iran. Woman’s skirt worn over a petticoat (ic tu- a décolleté gown. man) and under an outer skirt (ust tuman). tudor cape: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United tumana: See ijara. Kingdom. Woman’s circular cape with a pointed tumatukuru: New Zealand. Maori term for a snadla- yoke and a velvet Medici collar. It was commonly legging combination garment. made of embroidered fabric. tu-maurea: New Zealand. Maori term for a bright red- tufel’: See tuflja. dish yellow belt. tuflja: Russia. Slipper. tumbaga: Colombia. Gold-copper alloy. tuft: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Tassel. 2. Tassel on tumbe: Peru. Blanket worn as a shawl or mantle. a mortarboard. tumpal: Indonesia. A line of triangles that indicates the tuftaffeta: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late fringe end of the patola. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United States. Taffeta tu-muka: New Zealand. Maori term for a belt of 12 with chenille stripe worn in New United Kingdom. strands of dressed flax fiber. Four are white, four tufted dimity: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late black, and four red. Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Fustian with tufted sur- tundikeri: India. A fine muslin. face commonly used for petticoats. tundra: Romania. White or black winter jacket with no t’ugu: See ch’olmo. trim. 300 tunece

tunece: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). tunica manicata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Long United Kingdom. Man’s tunic or woman’s gown of a sleeved tunic. dark color. Also refers to a form of nightwear worn tunica palmata: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Tunica by monks. Valuable enough to be bequeathed by richly embroidered with gold embroideries of palm 10th century. branches and worn as part of official garb of the em- tunic: 1. Byzantine and Roman- peror. It was usually worn ungirdled. esque (400–1200 C.E.). Loose tunica taleris: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Ankle- body garment similar to the kirtle. length tunic with long, loose sleeves. It was popular 2. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). during the fourth century C.E. Man’s loose knee-length coat that tunicle: Ecclesiastical garb. Narrow sleeved dalmatic buttoned down the front. It was worn by deacons at Mass. worn with a waistcoat. It was in- tuniek: See tunica. troduced to United Kingdom by tunika: Germany and Poland. Tunic. tunic Charles II. 3. Crinoline (1840–1865 tunique: France. Tunic. C.E.). Popular in 1840s and 1850s, tunique à la Juive: See tunic à la mameluck. a boy’s jacket fitted to the waist, below which it tunnavaya: India. A tailor. flared into a gathered or pleated skirt. The sleeves Tuoch: Germany. Cloth. were elbow or wrist length. It was worn with ankle- Tuoh: See Fane. or knee-length trousers. tuósè: China. Camel color; light tan. tunic à la juive: See tunic à la mameluck. tupele: Lithuania. Slipper. tunic à la mameluck: Directoire and First Empire tupu: 1. Ecuador. Shawl pin. 2. Peru. Large silver pin. (1790–1815 C.E.). France. Popular in 1801 and 1802, tupullina pichu jerguita: Ecuador. A small straight pin a woman’s short tunic with short or long sleeves. See used to secure the pichu jerga. also juive. tupy: See topi. tunic à la Romaine: Directoire and First Empire (1790– tuque: Canada. Long knitted tube of a hat worn for 1815 C.E.). France. High-waisted, long, gauze or winter sports. lawn tunic with long sleeves. turamaggie: Korea. Long overcoat that ties on the right tunic dress: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865– breast and reaches to eight inches from the ground. 1890 C.E.). Dress with a tunic-like overskirt. It was turban: Scarf usually of fine linen worn wound around worn in various lengths and designs. the head. The Mohammedan versions are from 20 to tunic shirt: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- 30 inches wide and 6–9 yards long or as large as 6–8 dom. Patented in 1855, a man’s shirt that opened all inches wide and 10–50 yards long. the way down the front so that it did not have to go turban bonnet: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). France. on over the head. In the 1780s, a woman’s hat with no brim and a very tunic skirt: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 1890–1899 C.E. high crown. It had three feathers and a sash that tied United Kingdom. Popular from 1856 on, a double at the top back. skirt. In 1850s, the overskirt was trimmed with lace, turban-diademe: Directoire and First Empire (1790– the lower with a deep flounce. In 1897, the style reap- 1815 C.E.). France. Thin headband of muslin, velvet, peared minus the trim. brocade, silver moiré, satin, or silver gauze. tunica: 1. Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Man’s wool or turbante: Italy, Portugal, and Spain. Turban. linen knee-length garment with short or long sleeves. turchino: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Turquoise It was sometimes ornamented with clavi or segmen- blue. tae. 2. Italy. Tunic. 3. Holland. Tunic. turco poplinnes: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in túnica: Portugal. Tunic. 1867, a wool fabric with a soft, silky sheen. tunica alba: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). White tunic. turesu: See kin koot. tunica augusticlavia: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). turf: 1. Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Turn-up or facing Worn by Equites; a tunic with narrow stripes. of a hood or sleeve. 2. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). tunica interior: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). 1. An- Turn-up of a cap. other name for the colobium. 2. Innermost tunic, turf hat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. worn next to the body, and cut the same width from Man’s hat with tall crown, a flat top, and broad brim top to bottom. It was first made of wool and later that turned up on the sides. made of cotton or silk. turin velvet: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in tunica intima: See tunica interior. 1860, a silk and wool fabric similar to terry. tunica laticlavia: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Worn by Türken-kappen: Switzerland. Head cloths made for the senators, a tunic with broad stripes. export to Turkey. 301 turkey bonnet: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Tall cylin- on other. drical brimless hat. tusuk: See talede. turkey gown: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United tuszo: Hungary. Very wide leather belt made of tanned Kingdom. Long coat with long narrow sleeves that or smeared horse or cattle hide. was worn loose or fastened down the front with tuta: (1920–1930 C.E.). Italy. Designed by an Italian art- loops or buckles. It was most commonly worn as a ist around 1926 as a protest against the vagaries of lay gown and was later worn by Puritan ministers. fashion, it was not very popular. It was an all-in-one, turkey red: 1. Red dye made from vegetable madder buttoned, belted . or synthetic madder. 2. Plain red calico dyed with tutki: India. A parrot green color. turkey red. tuttulik: Boot with caribou soles. Worn by Inuits for turkils: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Turquoise. inland hunting. Turkish brilliantine: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1870, a : Very full, short overskirt worn by ballerinas. wool fabric similar to beaver mohair. tutu mu’u: United States of America. Hawaii. A loose- Turkish point lace: See oyah. fitting gown with a high neckline, yoke, and gath- Turkish polonaise: See Irish polonaise. ered bodice. It may be knee or ankle length. Turkish turban: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 tutulus: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Woman’s coiffure C.E.). Popular in 1808, a turban made of folds of silk where the hair is piled in a conical shape on the top and gauze. of the head. turkus: Poland. Turquoise. tuu hangoroa: Australia. Maori girdle of shells. turmkrone: Jewish bride’s traditional bold headband tuu kaaretu: Australia. Maori woman’s girdle of per- set with little towers. fumed Hierochloe redolens. turno: Ecuador and Guatemala. Spinning wheel. tuu maro: Australia. Maori rough girdle of flax tow. turnover: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration tuu muka: Australia. Maori decorative girdle of dressed (1660–1700 C.E.). Woman’s head kerchief. flax fiber. turquesa: Portugal. Turquoise, the gemstone. tuu ure: Australia. Maori penis string attached to waist belt. turquoise: Greenish green blue. tuumatakuru: Australia. Maori sandal and legging turra: See turro. combination. turrah: India. Crested plume of gold or silver worn on tuutum: Ghana. The color black. top of the turban. tuxedo: Man’s formal evening jacket. It is named for its turrā-i-mārwadī: India. Flounced feathered tassels of first official presentation at the Tuxedo Park Club. gold, tied on the right side of the turban. tuyn: Vietnam. Tulle. turret bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- túyt-xo: Vietnam. Tussah; tussore. dom. Bodice with the basque cut into tabs. tweed: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Soft, lightweight, turri: See turrah. wool fabric. It was so named in the 1830s when a turro: India. The fanlike projection made by the end of Scottish clerk misread tweel (twill). the turban. tweedside: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- turudam: India. A muslin. dom. Popular from 1858 on, a man’s loose, single- turumagi: Korea. Man’s long overcoat. breasted, high button lounge jacket. It varied in tus: India. The color gray. length from hip to thigh and had patch or slit tusbahh: Somalia. Muslim prayer beads. pockets. tusc: Poland. Mascara. tweedside overcoat: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United tuscan: Fine, yellow straw. When woven into lacelike Kingdom. Popular in 1850s, a knee-length tweedside braids, one of the finest braids. It was named for jacket. Tuscany, Italy, where it originated. Twelve Apostles: Charles I and the Commonwealth tüsjö: Romania. Wide leather belt. (1625–1660 C.E.). Sweden. Collar bandolier belt car- tussah: Strong, lightweight fiber or the cloth woven or rying 12 charges for a musket. tussah fiber. Twenty Grands: See brogans. tusseh: See tussah. twill weave: Strong weave characterized by a diagonal tussoire: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Renaissance ridge running from lower left to upper right. (1450–1550 C.E.). Chain and clasp combination which twillet: See toilet. hung from the waist and were used to hold up one twine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. side of the long skirt. Man’s double-breasted paletot-sac, similar to a loose tussore: See tussah. Chesterfield. tussore de Longchamps: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In twinset: (1950–1960 C.E.). Sweater set consisting of car- 1870, a reversible silk pongee; violet on one side, ecru digan and shell. 302 twist button twist button: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Used in 1860s, : Mesopotamia. Most expensive dye of a button covered in strong cotton twist. its time, blue red or garnet color dye made from the twitkkoj: Korea. Married woman’s hairpin worn with murex, a sea animal. It was first manufactured in the the cchok. Phoenician city Tyre. tyasen-gami: Japan. A man’s tonsure with a string Tyrolese cloak: Directoire and First Empire (1790– wound around the hair to hold it erect. 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s knee-length tye: Early Georgian (1700–1750 shoulder cape made of sarcenet and trimmed with C.E.) to Late Georgian (1750–1790 lace. C.E.). Man’s wig with a tied-back Tyrolese hat: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. ponytail. Woman’s small flat top felt hat with a tapering crown tyelambu: Timbuktu. Sandals. and a narrow brim that turned up on the sides. It was tyes: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). trimmed on one side with a feather cockade. United States. Girls’ aprons. tyubeterka: Uzbekistan. Brightly colored turban. tyg: See kläde. tyubetevka: Uzbekistan. Embroidered velvet skull cap tylesent: Renaissance (1450–1550 worn by both genders. tye C.E.) to Elizabethan (1550–1625 tzakos: Greece. A woman’s short, closely fitted bodice See also photospread C.E.). Tinsel or another fabric with elbow-length fitted sleeves. (Headwear). with metallic fibers. tzanga: See zancha. typewriter cloth: Very fine, tightly woven, cotton fabric tzute: Guatemala. Square piece of fabric worn by men used for typewriter ribbons. as a cloak or neckerchief. tyrasol: See kittysol. tzutes: Guatemala. Head kerchief worn on the head by tyrf: See turf. both men and women. U

uaine: Ireland. Gaelic word for green. 1. United Kingdom. Used from 1848 to 1864, popular uaine-donn: Ireland. Gaelic word for bronze green. name for extra brim on a hat or bonnet. Made from uaine-dorcha: Ireland. Gaelic word for olive. semi-circles of cane covered in silk that could be col- uainicionn: Ireland. Gaelic word for lambskin. lapsed up against the brim when not in use. Used uaki: See uwaki. to protect the face from the sun. 2. Combination uati: See uwaki. walking stick and sunscreen carried by ladies at the uauahi: United States of America. Hawaii. Smoky gray. seaside to protect their faces. Überschuh: Germany. Galosh. ugurulik: Worn by Inuits, boots made of caribou or ubong: Borneo. Cotton thread. bearded sealskin. ubong mata: See kain mata. ‘uha hipa: United States of America. Hawaii. Leg-of- ubrac: Poland. To clothe or to dress. mutton sleeve. ubrus: Slovakia. Type of shawl. uhi maka: United States of America. Hawaii. Veil; ubuhlalu: Rhodesia. Ndebele. Small beads used on a mask. woman’s waistband. uibok: See uiryu. üçetek: Turkey. Woman’s anteri with skirt deeply slit uilebril: Holland. Horn-rimmed glasses. from each hip to hem. uiose: Romania. Man’s woolen vest. uchdach: Ireland. Gaelic word for breastplate. uiryu: Korea. Clothing. uchd-bheart: Ireland. Gaelic word for cuirass. ujjas: See kurti. uchd-chrios: Ireland. Gaelic word for stomacher. ujuta: Bolivia. Sandals. uchidashi-kanoko: Japan. Painted kanoko with printed ukara: Nigeria. Tie-dyed cloth with alternating blue and dots with raised centers. white triangles. uchikake: Japan. Quilted robe worn over a kimono. ukaw: See oko. uchilla maki chumbi: Ecuador. A narrow belt. ukon: Japan. Canary yellow. uchiwa: Japan. Open fan. ukrasavanje: See vez. uçkar: Turkey. 1. Waist drawstring of cream cotton or uku churana: Ecuador. Pollera. linen. Ends are embroidered. 2. Kerchief. ukunchina: Ecuador. 1. Quichua word for an under- udbandha: India. A silken stuff skirt. 2. Woman’s white woolen wrapper worn under from Khanaka. the anaku. udju: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). ula: Ireland. Gaelic word for beard. Ground green malachite used for ‘ula: United States of America. Hawaii. Red; scarlet. eye shadow. ‘ula hiwa: United States of America. Hawaii. Purplish udo: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). red. Foot covering similar to the mod- ‘ula maku‘e: United States of America. Hawaii. Dark or ern slipper. purplish red. udones: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 ‘ula palani: United States of America. Hawaii. Bright C.E.). Stockings of sewn fabric. red percale. ufanta: Bolivia. Long scarf or sash. ‘ula waina: United States of America. Hawaii. Wine ugly ugly: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). red.

303 304 ‘ula weo

‘ula weo: United States of America. Hawaii. Dark red. pleats. Fitted with the use of darts. Most commonly ulach: Ireland. Gaelic word for beard. lined and might be trained. ‘ulahea: United States of America. Hawaii. Faded red. umgingqo: Zulu man’s fabric roll covered in beads. It is ‘ula‘okoko: United States of America. Hawaii. Blood red. worn on the arm, neck, chest, waist, or loin. ulchadh: Ireland. Gaelic word for beard. ‘umi‘i kuapo: United States of America. Hawaii. Belt uld: Denmark. Wool. buckle. ulimi: Zulu man’s bandolier. ‘umi‘i lauoho: United States of America. Hawaii. Hair uliuli: Samoa. Bronze. clasp. ulkhaulik: Afghanistan. Under-tunic. ‘umi‘umi: United States of America. Hawaii. Whiskers; ull: 1. Norway. Old Norse word for wool. 2. Sweden. beard; mustache. Wool. umpal: Indonesia. Silk scarf. godang: Indonesia. Skirt cloth worn as sarong. umritzur: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in 1880, ulos lobu-lobu: Indonesia. A circular cloth used to en- rough surfaced fabric of camel hair. Soft and very circle the bridal couple while they eat a ritual meal. lightweight. ulos suri-suri: Indonesia. Cloth given on birth of a umsisi: See ishiwaba. child. Worn as a shoulder drape. umtika: Rhodesia. Ndebele. A kilt of twisted skins of ulster: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. 1. monkeys and wild cats. Man’s single- or double-breasted overcoat with waist umutsha: Zulu. Loincloth made with a thin cowhide belt belt. Initially had hood, but by 1870s was detachable. that suspends a calf-skin flap in the back and twisted In 1875, the ticket pocket was added on the left sleeve strips of civet, monkey, or genet fur in the back. above the cuff. 2. After 1877, a woman’s long, some- una: United States of America. Hawaii. Tortoiseshell. times trained, overcoat similar the men’s version. uncut velvet: Deep pile velvet with loops uncut. Often made of waterproof material. undaweya: Swahili. Underpants. ulsterette: Lightweight ulster. under cap: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan ultramarine: Intense dark blue color with purple tint. (1550–1625 C.E.). Indoor cap, worn by either gender ulub: Borneo. Shell beads. similar to coif. Worn under hat, cap, or bonnet for uma tazina: Ecuador. Quichua word for a headwrap. additional warmth. uma watana: Ecuador. Quichua word for a woman’s under proper: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Frame that headwrap. held up the large lace collars. uma watarina tazina: Ecuador. Quichua word for a underhandkerchief: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). An- kind of woman’s headwrap. other name for a chemisette. uma-no-tsura: Japan. Literally “horse’s face,” a long under-serc: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 bonnet worn to protect the face from falling snow. C.E.). United Kingdom. Literally “undershirt.” umavadi: India. A linen cadar. undersleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Woman’s umber: Dark brown. sleeve, worn under the sleeve umbo: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Pouch or fold of a jacket or coat. The under- made by draping the upper left portion of the toga to sleeve was not attached per- enclose the right hand. manently to a blouse but rather umbrela: See sombrinha chapeau de sol. was basted into place with each umbrella: Initially a Chinese sunshade used to protect wearing. skin from the sun’s harmful rays. By 17th century, undervest: Crinoline (1840–1865 used for decorative rather than utilitarian purposes. C.E.) to 1890–1899 C.E. In umbrella cloth: Tightly woven fabric used to cover 1840s, woman’s merino thigh- umbrellas. length, sleeved under-waist- umbrella gingham: Silk, cotton, or rayon gingham fab- coat. In 1875, women began to undersleeve ric used to cover umbrellas. wear colored version of washable silk with gussets umbrella pleats: Flared seams resembling lines of an for the breasts. In 1890s, of natural wool with venti- umbrella. lating perforations in armpits. Men’s version referred umbrella robe: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late to as . Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Long overgarment. underwraedel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 umbrella silk: Taffeta or twilled fabric of silk, synthetic, C.E.). United Kingdom. Possibly loincloth. or cotton with finished selvage. Undine: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In November 1859, umbrella skirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United a plush or velvet mantle with mousquetaire sleeves Kingdom. In 1891, a woman’s skirt cut on cross grain. and crocheted medallions. One seam down center back hidden by double box undonghwa: Korea. Sneakers. uwaki pulima 305 undress: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Romantic upasirsaka: India. Pearl necklace. (1815–1840 C.E.). Term referring to everyday dress. upavasana: India. Woman’s dupatta. ungen-nishiki: Japan. Early weft patterned nishiki in a upavastra: See pachedī. rainbow striped design. upavita: India. An upper body garment worn over the ungkoi: Borneo. Red or black trimming on the collar of left shoulder and under the right arm. a jacket. up-legen: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). unhye: Korea. Upper-class woman’s or girl’s silk shoe. United Kingdom. Pin or ornament for the hair. union: Fabric woven with linen weft and cotton warp or upper stocks: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Breeches or cotton weft and wool warp. hose reaching from waist to mid-thigh. : Undergarment of shirt and drawers in one uraeus: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Standing cobra. piece. Symbol of royalty. unitard: One-piece, fitted . Reaches from neck uraq-awa: Bolivia. Yellowish brown. or shoulders to ankles, sometimes ending in stirrup urasala: India. Camlet. straps. urbāi: India. Footwear. university athletic costume: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). urbasī: India. Dress worn as a top garment. United Kingdom. Uniform worn by university stu- urdimbre: Guatemala. Warp on a loom. dents in athletic classes consisting of short sleeved urdir: Ecuador. To warp. vest, knee-length knickerbockers, waist sash, ankle urku: Bolivia. A wrapped dress. socks, and laced shoes. urna: India. Goat’s or sheep’s wool. university vest: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- urna sutra: India. Woolen thread. dom. Introduced in 1872, man’s double-breasted urumali: See rumala. waistcoat worn with university coat. usala: Somalia. Beaded belt. unkelai: Biblical (Unknown–30 C.E.). Hebrew’s under- usan: Korea. Umbrella. tunic. usgaraidh: Ireland. Gaelic word for jewelry. unkhuña: Bolivia and Peru. Small square of fabric used usgar-bhràghad: Ireland. Necklace. in pastoral rituals. usgar-mheur: Ireland. Gaelic word for jeweled ring. ‘unku: Ecuador. Aztec man’s knee-length tunic. ushiro-migoro: Japan. The back panel of a kimono or unku: Bolivia and Peru. Tunic. haori. unkucha: Peru. Woolen petticoat. ushnisa: India. A turban. unmentionables: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle ushnisha: India. Turban. (1865–1890 C.E.). One of many euphemisms for ushuta: Ecuador. Sandals with leather or tire soles. men’s trousers. See also inexpressibles. usnìsa: India. Man’s headdress; turban. unmunsa: Korea. Cloud patterned sa silk. üst tuman: Iran. Woman’s outer skirt worn over middle unnabi: India. The color mauve. skirt (tuman) and petticoat (ic tuman). unnatasikharavestana: India. An elaborate, tall turban. usuaka: Japan. Pink. unpich’ui: Korea. Silver colored. usugake: Japan. Medium blue. unpit: Korea. Silver, the color. ‘usut’a: Ecuador. Leather sandals. unterrock: Switzerland. Woman’s house dress. usuta: Peru. Sandals made from the soft untanned Unterrock: Germany. Petticoat. leather from the neck of the camelids. The sandals are unwhisperables: See unmentionables. tied on with cords of colored wool or leather. ‘upa ‘oki nihoniho: United States of America. Hawaii. usuzumi: Japan. Gray. Literally “shears for cutting points,” pinking shears. utcu: Ecuador. Quichua word for cotton. upanah: India. Ritual sandals of antelope or bearskin. utrecht velvet: Cotton velvet. upanat: India. Generic term for shoes. utskurdsøm: Norway. Very fine cut-thread work. uparanī: See pachedī. uttarasanga: India. 1. Gown. 2. Woman’s bodice-like uparanū: See pachedī. garment. uparivastra: India. Hem of a garment. uttariya: 1. India. Upper body garment. 2. See chaddar. uparna: India. Silk or muslin scarf worn as a shawl or uwaki: United States of America. Hawaii. Watch. veil. May have gold or silver threads woven into it. uwaki pulima: United States of America. Hawaii. upasampanna: India. A well-dressed person. Wristwatch. upasamvyana: India. Man’s loincloth-like garment, generally white.

V

vachóris: Greece. Persian shawl worn as a belt. vakala: India. A pure gold or silver fabric. vað: See klœði. văl: Romania. Veil. vadata: Lithuania. Needle. Val: See Valenciennes lace. Vadem: Germany. Thread. valaya: India. Bangle bracelet. vadhuya: India. Bride’s dress. After the marriage cer- valencia: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Fabric with a silk emony, the robe is given to a Brahmin. or cotton warp and a wool weft. Used for riding vadkyu: India. Embroidered corners of the phaphro. habits. vadmal: Norway. Coarse woolen fabric. Valencia: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1854, yoked vadmala: Lithuania. Cloth. cloak. Skirt was box-pleated in back, plain in front. vaga: India. A knee-length jacket. The portion over the arms was scalloped. 2. In 1856, vagabond hat: Brimmed sports hat. woman’s semi-circular cloth cape trimmed with vel- vagem de ervilhas: Portugal. Peascod. vet, silk fringe tassels, and ribbon. vagho: India. Coat in the jama style. Valencian: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. Introduced in vahitha: India. An early variety of woolen cloth. 1862, woman’s ankle-length black velvet shawl that vahitika: India. Woolen fabric. came to point in the center front and center back. It vài: Vietnam. Cloth. was wrist length on sides and embroidered along the vài bò: Vietnam. Denim. hem in a floral pattern. 2. In 1857, woman’s shawl vài bông: Vietnam. Cotton cloth; flannelette. with a deep gathered flounce. 3. In 1858, a woman’s vài hoa: Vietnam. Printed fabric. satin and cloth wrap with double sleeves. Trimmed vai long-ðình: Vietnam. Shoulders of a coat. with tassels. vài màn: Vietnam. Mosquito netting. Valenciennes lace: Fine bobbin lace made in one piece. vài to: Vietnam. Coarse fabric. Commonly referred to as Val. vài trorn: Vietnam. Plain fabric. : Russia. High felt boots. vài vóc: Vietnam. Generic term for cloth. valentia: Fabric similar to toilinet. vaijayantika: India. Necklace made of groups of five Valentia: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, woman’s gems each. cloth cloak with full-circle skirt trimmed with velvet vaikaksaki: India. Woman’s bodice worn tied on the bands. The waist-length bertha was trimmed with right shoulder. brandenbourgs. vaikaksha: India. Straps crossed on the chest. vali: Samoa. Makeup. vaio: Italy. Vair. valkala: India. Bark-strip garments worn by Hindu vair: Fur of northern gray squirrel that is blue gray on ascetics. top and white on the underside. When sewn together váll: Hungary. Woman’s red cloth vest trimmed with in squares alternating color, called menu vair; with black lace. larger squares, grand vair or gros vair. Worn only by vallancy: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Very large kings or some magistrates. wig that shaded or partially hid the face. vajo: Italy. Squirrel belly fur. : Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Armor plate vajramsuka: India. An asbestos fabric imported from for lower arm. China. vampay: United States. Short sock of wool.

307 308 vân vân: Vietnam. Silk fabric with a woven cloud design. vegachiya: See vaikaksaki. vanadana: India. A loom. vegetable ivory buttons: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). vanakara: India. A weaver. Introduced in 1862, ball buttons made from the South vandyke: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). 1. Dentate American palm tree seed. border or lace or material. 2. Lace-bordered hand- veile: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to kerchief. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. Mid- vandyke dress: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United dle English word for veil. Kingdom. Fashion similar to that of the Van Dyke veldschoen: South Africa. Shoe period. of untanned hide. vàng ánh: Vietnam. Shining yellow. veletine: Directoire and First vàng ðo: Vietnam. Gold jewels. Empire (1790–1815 C.E.). In- vàng huyên: Vietnam. Earring. troduced in 1812, small fig- veldschoen vàng khè: Vietnam. Very yellow. ured silk fabric. vàng muròi: Vietnam. Pure gold. velette: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Horse sol- vàng ròng: See vàng muròi. dier’s coat. vàng y: See vàng muròi. veli: Samoa. Veil. vangala: India. A plain cotton stuff. velleres fulvi: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Tawny van-hài: Vietnam. Scholar’s shoes. fleeces. vãn-phuc: Vietnam. Evening dress. velleres nigri: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Black varabana: India. A man’s thick quilted coat. fleeces. varasi: India. A very coarse cadar. velludillo: Spain. Velveteen. varedira: Ecuador. Machine-made edging. velludo: Portugal. Velvet. varens: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. vellum: 1. Fine skin of lamb, kid, or calf. 2. Roman (753 Introduced in 1847, woman’s short outdoor jacket B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Fleece. 3. Fine, plain weave, smooth with loose sleeves. It was made of cashmere or velvet cotton fabric made to imitate calfskin parchment. and lined in silk. It was a combination in cut of the vellum cloth: Fine transparent linen or cotton fabric. casaweck and the polka. velluto: Italy. Velvet. vareuse: France. Loose, rough jacket. velo: 1. Spain. Black lace scarf worn for shopping and Varna: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1854, mantle with attending mass. 2. Italy. Crepe. arm slits, plain front, and box-pleated back on a yoke. velonísça: Greece. Lace made with a sewing needle. Trimmed with velvet and deep fringe. velour: Soft, closely woven fabric with a short pile. varna-krtsna: India. Shoes of white or colored leather. velour de coton: France. Velveteen. varsikasatika: India. A loincloth. velours: France. Velvet. varti: See dasa. velours de coton croisé: France. Velveteen. varvana: India. Coat-like upper garment. velours de laine: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In vasa: India. Lower body garment. 1894, a wool fabric with velvet stripes or checks. vasas: See amsuka. velours de Venise: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In vasconso: Portugal. Basque. 1891, a very expensive figured velvet. vashti: See dasa. velours frappé: Velvet with raised patterns. vasquine: See basquine. velours Grégoire: Directoire (1790–1815 C.E.). France. vastagkabát: See rokk. The art of creating a picture woven in velvet. It was vastra: India. 1. Hem of garment. 2. See amsuka. named for Gaspard Grégoire (1751–1846 C.E.), a vel- vastragrantha: India. A woman’s waistcloth. vet maker who perfected the technique. vastrañchala: India. Hem of garment. velours Impératrice: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In vat: Vietnam. Skirt of a Vietnamese dress. 1858, white corded silk. Vatermörder: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Germany. veloutine: Merino wool corded fabric with velvety finish. Man’s tall collar with two points on the cheeks. velure: Velvet or similar fabric. vati: India. A fabric, the specifics are unknown. velveret: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Fustian with vel- vaturinapada: India. The heavy foot guards worn by vet face. soldiers in battle. velvet: Satin, plain, or twill weave fabric with a short, vavr: India. Buckskin. soft, thick pile. váy: Vietnam. Skirt; petticoat. velvet imperatrice: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Intro- vaya: India. A weaver. duced in 1860, dark terry velvet. veau velours: Soft finished calfskin. velveteen: All cotton fabric similar to velvet. vedla: India. Upper ear earrings. vema: See vanadanda. vestimentum 309 veman: India. A loom. verde trébol: Spain. Irish green. Venediger Spitze: Germany. Venetian lace. verdigris: Bluish or yellowish green. venera: See benerica. verdingale: See farthingale. venetian: Strong sateen. verdugado: Spain. Farthingale. Venetian bars: Embroidered lace made with bars of vergette à la chinoise: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). buttonhole stitches. France. Literally “Chinese dusting brush,” it refers to Venetian bonnet: Directoire and First Empire (1790– the front roll of hair on forehead of a wig. 1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular in 1800, wom- vermelhão: Portugal. Vermilion. an’s small straw bonnet trimmed with straw wreaths vermelho: 1. Portugal. Red. 2. See carmezim. or flowers. Ribbons bowed in back and tied loosely vermicelli: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Italy. Fine in the front. motifs applied to a fabric in a swirling pattern. Venetian cloak: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United vermilion: Intense red. Kingdom. Introduced in 1829, woman’s black satin Vermummung: Germany. Fancy dress. caped cloak with a collar and wide hanging sleeves. Veronese cuirasse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Venetian cloth: 1. Mercerized cotton fabric with warp- Kingdom. Jersey bodice that laced up the back. face satin. Formerly called farmer’s satin. 2. Soft wool Veronese dress: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- fabric similar to prunella. dom. Popular in 1880s, knee-length, woolen, princess Venetian crape cloth: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). A line tunic with deep points on the bottom that reached dull, heavy mixture of silk and wool. to the hem of the box-pleated silk under-skirt. Venetian edging: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, vert: France. Green. lace edging like Brussels edging. vert malachite: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1866, - Venetian embroidery: Openwork embroidery. nous green. Venetian lace: Italy. Variety of laces including reticella, vertugadin: See farthingale. cutwork, drawn work, raised point, etc. vertugadin francais: See farthingale. Venetian sleeve: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United vertugale: Spain. Farthingale. Kingdom. Introduced in 1858, woman’s day sleeve veš: See donje rublje. fitted at the top and flared to the forearm from where vesa za cipele: See pertla. it was slit nearly to the shoulder. Worn with an en- vesh: India. Generic term for clothes. gageante. veshovi meshok: Russia. Haversack. venetians: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Bouffant vesses: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan breeches tied at the kne e with ribbons. (1550–1625 C.E.). Type of worsted fabric. veni: India. A small hair fillet of flowers. vest: 1. Short fitted upper body Venice: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, woman’s sleeveless garment. 2. Extra flounced cloak with deep Grecian folds that formed piece of trim on blouse front. a collar. 3. Short for undervest. 4. Obso- Venice pearls: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Fake pearls. lete term for robe, ecclesiastical venise: Fine damask table linen. vestment, or outer clothing. ventail: On an armored helmet, the part below the visor vestana: India. Man’s headdress; made with hinges to allow the passage of air. turban. ventilated pants: (1930–1940 C.E.). United Kingdom. veste: See jaquette. Term used in the press for men’s shorts. veste da camera: Italy. Night- ventoye: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Restoration gown. (1660–1700 C.E.). Italy. Short stemmed fan with a veste di camera: Italy. Dressing rectangular vane. gown. ventus textilis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). A fine veste Russe: Crinoline (1840–1865 muslin. C.E.). In 1862, ladies’ braided vest veo: Croatia and Serbia. Veil. blouse. verd Nile: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1869, gas light vestee: Imitation vest or blouse front. green. vestes: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Piece of woven verde: Portugal and Spain. Green. cloth draped by the wearer. verde celedón: Spain. Celadon green. vesti: See dhoti. verde césped: Spain. Grass green. vestido: Portugal. Dress; frock. verde limón: Spain. Lime green. vestido de noche: Spain. Evening dress. verde nilo: Spain. Nile green. vestidos: Spain. Clothing. verde salvia: Spain. Sage green. vestimentum: See vestis. 310 vestir vestir: 1. Portugal. Clothing. 2. Spain. To clothe or to dress. Victoria bodice: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United vestire: Italy. To clothe or dress. Kingdom. In 1899, a décolleté evening bodice with vestīre: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). To clothe or to shoulder straps to support it. It was often trimmed dress. with tulle ruchings and ruffles. vestis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Clothing. Victoria bonnet: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United vestiti: Italy. Generic term for clothing. Kingdom. Introduced in 1838, small-crowned, small vestito da sera: Italy. Evening dress. brimmed satin bonnet with ties under the chin. It had vestitus: See vestis. a long bavolet and was often trimmed with flowers. veston: See gilet-veste. Victoria cage: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Trade name for vestuário: Portugal. Clothing. steel skeleton skirt. vésure: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1862, orange color. Victoria corset: Crinoline (1840– vêtement à la Créole: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). 1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. France. Style similar to that worn by women in the Named for Queen Victoria, New World. a heavily curved corset with vétements: France. Clothing. deep bust gores that supported vethaka: India. A simple sash cummerbund. a woman’s bust in an era be- vettam: India. A kind of very white fabric. fore brassieres. It was particu- vét-tông: Vietnam. Suit coat; jacket. larly popular with full-figured Vevai cap: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Worn in 1820, women. Victoria corset woman’s snug black velvet cap with a heron’s plume. Victoria crepe: Crinoline (1840– vexillum: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Scarf worn tied 1865 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- about the crozier. See also infula. dom. A cheap cotton version of crimped silk mourn- vez: Bosnia. Embroidery. ing crape. vézane: Greece. Richly embroidered stockings. Victoria lawn: See bishop’s lawn. vezzo: See collana. Victoria mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United vhulungu ha madi: . Literally “beads of the Kingdom. Popular from 1850 to 1867, knee-length water,” translucent pale blue, blue green, or blue mantle with a collar and wide hanging sleeves. Often gray beads. had wide, deep colored border. ví tay: Vietnam. Handbag. Victoria pardessus: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1859, viatu vyu Johanna: Swahili. Shoes with long straps that gray or speckled fabric pardessus framed with a wrap up the shin. wide border. The hood had pointed border around viatu vyu kliipa: Swahili. Shoes with thick crepe soles. the face. The border was trimmed with rows of nar- viatu vyu malapa: Swahili. Backless shoes or slippers. row black ribbon velvet. viatu vyu matende: Swahili. Shoes with crepe soles and Victoria pelisse-mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). thick heels. United Kingdom. Introduced in 1855, double- vibushana: India. An elaborate necklace of looped breasted, knee-length mantle with flat collar, short strings of pearls and gems. wide sleeves, and side pockets. vichy: Stiff, yarn dyed cotton fabric similar to gingham. Victoria silk: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1893, a vicitra: India. A variegated or figured silk. silk and wool blend fabric used to make petticoats. victoria: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United King- Guaranteed to rustle. dom. Blue. 2. (1890–1899 C.E.). In 1895, a reddish Victoria sleeve: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) and 1890– violet. 1899 C.E. United Kingdom. Popular in 1838 and Victoria: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). 1. In 1853, prom- 1840s, fitted day sleeve with large flounce at elbows enade mantle of appliqued silk on silk net. It had topped with two smaller ones. Revived in 1890s. a scalloped border. 2. In 1854, round mantelet with victorieuse: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1882, repped silk. deep fringe at lower edge. It had a large bow of silk victorine: United Kingdom. 1. Crinoline (1840–1865 between the shoulder blades. 3. In 1855, velvet man- C.E.). Popular in 1850s, narrow, flat neck tippet with tle trimmed with rich galloon, velvet, satin moiré, short ends and fur edging. Tied at throat with rib- and deep fringe. 4. In 1856, woman’s velvet mantle bon. 2. (1890–1899 C.E.). In 1899, a waist- or ankle- with very wide sleeves. It was trimmed with passe- length cloak with a high fluted collar ending in fur menterie, buttons, and fringe. 5. In 1858, mauve, flounce. the Queen’s purple. 6. In 1858, silk gown with plain vicuna: Wool from South American goat. underskirt. The overskirt was en tablier and was vidrilho: Portugal. Glass bead. trimmed with plush. The bodice had a pointed cor- vieil argent: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1875, subdued sage, two puff sleeves, and deep cuffs. silver color. vrai reseau 311

Vielfraß: Germany. Wolverine fur. visscherspij: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. vientre de ardilla gris: Spain. Vair. Fisherman’s smock. viereckiger schleier: Jewish woman’s square head cover- vitha: India. A kamarband clasp. ing worn only for synagogue and Sabbath. Cap with vitis: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Official baton of two starched wings of white linen. Covers the hair. centurion. vierspitzige Faltung: Germany. Multipointed fold. vitses: Greece. Designs knitted on wool stockings. vigogna: Italy. Vicuna. vitta: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Bandeau worn by vigogne: France. Vicuna. freeborn women to hold back their hair. Vigogne: Germany. Vicuna. Vittoria: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1857, Chantilly vigone: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 lace talma with a bertha. C.E.). Man’s vicuna wool hat. vivos: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Pipings. vihita kappasa: India. Calendered cloth. : United Kingdom. Lightweight twill fabric in a vijayachchhanda: India. Necklace made from 504 wool and cotton blend. strings of pearls. Vlahs: Germany. Flax. vijayantika: India. A necklace made of pearls, rubies, vlas: Holland. Flax. emeralds, blue stones, and diamonds. vlieger: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Holland. Woman’s villi: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Shaggy tufts on the garment similar in cut to Spanish ropa. Literally “flyer.” surface of an unshorn fabric. vlno: Czechoslovakia. Wool. vilna: Lithuania. Wool. voering: Holland. Lining. vîlnic: Romania. Cotton or woolen skirt richly embroidered. voided shoe: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabe- vilnos: Lithuania. Wool. than (1550–1625 C.E.). Very fashionable in first half of vilt: Holland. Felt. 16th century, a shoe with a sole, toe-cap, and instep Vilz: Germany. Felt. strap. vincha: Ecuador. Quichua term for barrettes. voile: 1. See nun’s veiling. 2. France. Veil. vindi: Ecuador and Guatemala. Spinning wheel. voile de laine: France. Wool voile. vinti: India. Gold finger ring. voilette: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Very fashionable Violet: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1855, very full small veil. mantilla trimmed with satin or taffeta ribbons in rows. vojlok: Russia. Felt. violet of the : Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1860, volan: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 new color. C.E.). Small flounce used to trim a sleeve. violeta: Portugal. Violet; violet colored. volant: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Light unlined violin bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. jerkin with no pockets, buttons, or buttonholes. But- Introduced in 1874, day bodice with violin-shaped toned only at the neck. 2. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). piece of dark material inserted in the center back. In 1854, promenade scarf with three rows of taffeta virago sleeve: Long sleeve with periodic horizontal ties ruffles. Most made in green, tans, and drabs. of elastic that create a series of puffs. volante: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Thin virágozás: Hungary. Literally “flowering,” embroidery silk. 2. Spain. Flounce. on szür. volanten: Switzerland. Loose gown. viramo: India. Particularly coveted form of dupatta. volcan: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). France. In 1888, reddish virgin wool: Any wool not previously manufactured terra-cotta. into fabric. volet: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Short veil worn at virly: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Green fabric made back of head by women. in Vire, Normandy. volpe: Italy. Fox fur. visagière: France. Open part of hood around face. volpe o renard: Italy. Fox fur. visera: Spain. Peak of a cap. volubilis: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1895, a visiera de berretto: Italy. Peak of a cap. shade of purple. visité: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). France. Introduced in volupere: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Elizabethan 1845, large printed shawl that buttoned down center (1550–1625 C.E.). Cap or headdress. front. Came in various lengths and fabrics and stayed vòng huyèn: Vietnam. Jet bracelet. in usage until around 1885. vòng tai: Vietnam. Earrings. vison: France. Mink fur. vonica: Slovakia. Nosegay. visón: Spain. Mink fur. voorschoot: See schort. visone: Italy. Mink fur. vorotnicek: See vorotnik. visor: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Face guard of steel vorotnik: Russia. Collar. helmet. vrai reseau: True net ground for lace. 312 vraka vraka: Greece. Men’s very full trousers with fullness vulnenik: Bulgaria. Kilted back skirt. between the legs. Plural is vraki. vulotó: Greece. Striped, colored silk. vrpca: Bosnia. Ribbon. vuna: Croatia and Serbia. Wool. vú già: Vietnam. Falsies. vuoddaga: Norway. Braided ribbons used to lace the vual’: Russia. Veil. gábmaga. Vulcanite buttons: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced vyalapanktirmañjari: India. Necklace made of stone in 1888, buttons made from ebonite, a hard form of beads. vulcanized rubber. vulcanized rubber bands: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Patented in 1845, manufactured for garters and belts. W

wà: China. Socks; stockings; hose. waisyooch’u: Korea. Shirt. wa leng mao: China. Mongolian man’s hat of strips of wàiyi: China. Coat. rattan. wàizhào: China. Outer garment. Waborne lace: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Braid lace wajrapallay: Bolivia. In woven fabric, a scroll motif. made in Waborne, Norfolk. w’aka: See chumpi. Wachstuch: Germany. Oilcloth. wak’a: Peru. Woven wool sash dyed in dark and light wàdài: China. Suspenders; garters. reds. wadasan: Java. A textile pattern resembling rocks. waki: See uwaki. wadded hem: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). In use from Walachian embroidery: Solid embroidery done with 1820 to 1828, hem of skirt padded out with cotton wool. single purl buttonhole stitch. wadmal: Lapland. Thick fabric. walka: 1. Ecuador and Guatemala. Bead necklace. 2. wadmel: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Coarse fabric. Peru. Necklaces made from the seeds of jungle plants. waed-braec: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 walking suit: (1900–1910 C.E.). In 1901, a woman’s C.E.). United Kingdom. Loincloth. suit with a skirt that barely missed the ground. In waefels: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). 1902, the hem was three to four inches above the United Kingdom. Covering which could be used as ground. wrap. walking out dress: (1910–1920 C.E.). United Kingdom. waffenrock: Kind of doublet or tabard worn with ar- In the , the nickname in 1914 for a full mor. dress uniform. wahi: United States of America. Hawaii. Wrapper. Wallachian cap: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 wai ‘ele: United States of America. Hawaii. Black tapa C.E.). Introduced in 1812, woman’s round dark sable dye. cap worn with matching tippet. wai ‘ele‘ele: United States of America. Hawaii. Black dye. wallka: Ecuador. Bead necklace. wai gula: See wai kula. wallkarina: Ecuador. Rectangular shawl. wai kula: United States of America. Hawaii. Gold col- walnut brown: Soft, warm, taffy brown. ored. walutu: Ecuador. A twill-weave handspun wool fabric. wài tào: China. Qing dynasty (1644–1911). Pu fu with- wambuis: See buis. out a badge. Worn as mandatory dress by men after wammes: Late Gothic (1350– 1759 for formal occasions. 1450 C.E.). Indoor dress worn waikawa: Maori. Clothing made of grass mats. by knights. It opened down waili ‘ili‘i: United States of America. Hawaii. Decorated the front where it laced or tapa. buttoned. It was open at the : (1940–1950 to 1950–1960 C.E.). United sides from the hip down, al- States of America. Introduced in 1947, woman’s tiny though these openings could wambuis girdle necessary to the New Look. button. It always had long tight sleeves and rarely waist seam: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). From 1823 on, was trimmed or embroidered. In United Kingdom, horizontal seam at waist uniting torso of a coat with it was called the gambeson; and in France, the the skirts. gambesson.

313 314 wammiss

wammiss: Switzerland. House jacket. wāt: Germany. Old High German for clothing. Wams: See Weste. wata: Palestine. Common hide shoe. wamus: Cardigan or heavy outer jacket. watabōshi: Japan. Silk floss cap worn by brides. wandabo: See kamis. wàtào: China. Socks; ankle socks. wandelcostuum: Holland. Lounge suit. watashinui: Japan. Embroidery with patterned couch- wandelstok: Holland. Walking stick. ing over long, loose threads. wanggwan: Korea. Crown. watch cap: United States. Knitted navy blue cap worn wangu: Ecuador. Woman’s ponytail wrapped in a thin by Navy. white band. watchet: 1. Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Blue fabric. wanjang: Korea. Crown. 2. Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Pale greenish blue. wano: Philippine Islands. Man’s loincloth. wāten: See werien. want: Holland. Mitten. waterfall back: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Popular from wantus: Fine kid mitten lined with fur. Sometimes 1868 to 1889, dress with back of skirt hooked up at trimmed with jewels and fur on the outside. intervals with string beneath the gown. wapenrusting: Holland. Armor. waterproof cloak: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- wappenrock: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Germany. dom. Introduced in 1867, woman’s cloak of water- Worn by heralds, wide cape worn open at the sides. proofed fabric. Had small tasseled hood. Generally knee length and had armorial signatures. Watteau body: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United wara: 1. Ecuador and Guatemala. Incan breechcloth. 2. Kingdom. Popular from 1853 to 1866, day basquine Japan. Straw. 3. Peru. Incan loincloth worn by adults, bodice with low square neckline. Front edges did beginning at age 14 or 15. not meet but were filled in with a chemisette criss- : Japan. Flat, plaited sandals of rice straw. crossed with ribbons. Elbow-length sleeves ending warak: India. Thin gold leaf used for gold-printing on in ruffles. fabric. Watteau costume: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United King- waraka: Peru. Leaves used to hold the dress up around dom. Introduced in 1868, fichu front bodice worn the pelvic region while a woman works. with skirt ending in deep pleats. Watteau pleated Wardle hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 overdress looped up on the sides of the skirt. C.E.). United Kingdom. Woman’s straw hat with Watteau hat: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). Wom- conical crown. an’s small straw hat worn tilted forward. warmi camisa: Ecuador. Quichua term for a blouse. Watteau pleat: Early Georgian warp: The long threads that run lengthwise in fabric. (1700–1750 C.E.). Box pleat at was and tam: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Two scepters center back top of the neckline used by dignitaries to show the support of heaven. of a gown causing the back The was was straight and the tam was curved. to be full and loose. Fronts of wasa: Bolivia. Poncho-like garment worn over the but- these gowns were fitted. tocks. Watteau polonaise: Bustle (1865– Waschbär: Germany. Raccoon fur. 1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. wasdoek: Holland. Oilcloth. Watteau back polonaise of Watteau pleat wash silk: See habutai. white fabric with flowers. washa fachalina: See washajatana. Watteau robe: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- washajatana: Ecuador. A shawl. dom. Popular in 1850s, Watteau pleated washing leather gloves: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). worn open in front over a lace inset. Popular from 1817, gloves made of washing leather. watu: Ecuador. A narrow handwoven band. wasjun: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) to wawa chumbi: Ecuador and Guatemala. Literally “baby Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). To clothe or dress. belt,” a long narrow belt worn over the mama chumbi. wasserfall: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 waya: Ethiopia. Man’s toga-like robe. C.E.). Austria. Piece of fringe hanging from center wāyāč attāmitō: Ethiopia. Gold earrings with chains of back of waist. 22 silver bells which lie on the king’s chest. wasti: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic wayeta: Bolivia. Woman’s head covering. (1350–1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Cloak. waz: Poland. Hose. wastjōs: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic wàzi: China. Socks; stockings; hose. (1350–1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. General term for wealca: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). clothing. United Kingdom. Full-cut garment, worn wrapped wasy: Poland. Moustache. around the body by women. Used in reference to wat: See kleit. biblical dress. whalebone bodice 315 wearing sleeves: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Wellington coat: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. Sleeves actually worn on the arm (not the Kingdom. Fitted knee-length coat popular from 1820 false hanging sleeves). to 1830. wedding garter: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) through Wellington frock: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United present. United Kingdom. Blue garter worn about leg Kingdom. Worn from 1816 through 1820s, early ver- of bride. Following the ceremony, tossed into crowd. sion of frock coat. Early version was single breasted, In Renaissance, fragments of garter were worn and with roll collar, no lapels, full knee-length skirt, cen- proudly displayed on the crowns of young men’s hats. ter back vent, side pleats, and hip-buttons. In 1818, a wedding gloves: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). White gloves horizontal dart appeared at waist to give better fit. In distributed among the wedding guests as presents. 1823, the dart became a seam. wedding : Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) to Res- Wellington half-boot: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) and toration (1660–1700 C.E.). Pair of knives in a shared Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Short sheath given as wedding present to bride and then boot worn under the trousers which fastened under worn as symbol of her married status. the sole with a strap. wedding ring hat: (1970–1980 C.E.). Introduced in 1979 Wellington hat: Romantic (1815– by Frank Olive, a rounded crown, rolled brim hat 1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. made of shiny straw. Popular in 1820s and 1830s, a wedding ring velvet: Fine, lightweight velvet. Suppos- tall beaver hat that belled out edly so fine that a width could be pulled through a slightly at the top. wedding ring. Wellington pantaloons: Roman- wede: See weed. tic (1815–1840 C.E.). United wedge weave blanket: United States of America. Na- Kingdom. Men’s pantaloons vajo blanketry with characteristic zigzag patterns. slit from calf down. Slit was Wellington hat wedgie: Shoe with high heel and sole created in one held closed with buttons and wedge-shaped piece. loops. wedgwood: Dark purple blue. wełna: Poland. Wool. wedja: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Eye-shaped oyster welniana kamizelka: Poland. Cardigan. shell amulet thought to keep the wearer healthy. welniane skarpetki: Poland. Woolen socks. weed: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.). Medieval term welon: See kwef. referring to garments in general. Welsh flannel: Fine flannel made from wool of Welsh weepers: 1. Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Wide muslin sheep. hatbands worn around hat of a mourner. The end of welt: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Strengthened bor- the hatband hung down in back to the waist. Gener- der of garment. ally black, but might be white if the deceased was a Wendelring: 7–6 B.C.E. Germany. Neck ring worn by maiden. 2. See pleureuses. high-ranking women. weeping willow bangs: China. Woman’s hairstyle with wentke: Holland. Woman’s woolen gown associated bangs cut into sweeping half circle. with the town of Hindelopen in Friesland. weft: The threads that run selvedge to selvedge in fabric. weo: United States of America. Hawaii. Red. Weicher Hut: Germany. Homburg. weret: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). White Crown of wéijin: China. Muffler. Egypt, a tall conical hat with a bulbous top. It was wéiqún: China. Apron. made of starched linen or white leather on a wicker Weissstickerei: Germany. Household linen embroidery. frame. Welch wig: Romantic (1815–1840 werien: Germany. Old High German for to clothe or C.E.). Man’s worsted cap, com- dress. monly worn by travelers. werkbroek of overall van stevig katoen: See sportpan- weleweka: United States of talon. America. Hawaii. Velvet. werkpak: Holland. Dungarees. Wellesley wrapper: Crinoline wesekh: Egyptian (4000–30 B.C.E.). Broad collar with (1840–1865 C.E.). United King- many strands of beads. dom. Man’s short saclike double- Weste: Germany. Waistcoat. breasted wrapper edged in fur. Fas- weyd: See weed. tened in front with brandenburgs. whakatipu: See timu. : Heavy black whalebone bodice: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to leather boot lined in chamois. Restoration (1660–1700 C.E.). Bodice stiffened with Wellington boot Worn by Napoleon. whalebone strips. 316 whalebone bodies

whalebone bodies: See whalebone bodice. wimpel: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). whanake: Australia. Maori cape of cabbage tree leaves United Kingdom. Headdress. and fiber. wimple: 1. Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 whang: Leather thong. C.E.). Long piece of white linen or silk worn whangee: Pale yellow bamboo with large knots. wrapped around neck and head. Commonly worn whatu: New Zealand. Maori term indicating to weave. with veil or filet. 2. Directoire and First Empire wheat ears: United Kingdom. Name for little oval and (1790–1815 C.E.). In 1809, gauze covering for head square motifs used in many bobbin laces. worn for evening. wheel farthingale: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). United wimpled: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). 1. Term mean- Kingdom. Wire or whalebone wheel-shaped appara- ing to be disguised. 2. To be arranged in folds. tus covered in material, most commonly silk. It was wincey: Fabric woven with cotton or linen warp and worn snugly fitted around waist with front tilted woolen weft. Probably word derivative of linsey- down slightly. Variation on French farthingale. See also woolsey. Catherine wheel farthingale. winceyette: United Kingdom. Cotton flannel generally wheel trimming: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Silk soft used for nightwear. puff trim formed into wheel shapes. Popular in 1824. wincha: 1. Bolivia. Woman’s headband beaded with flora whey: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Pale whitish blue. and fauna. 2. Ecuador. Aztec term for a headband. whiitiki: Australia. Maori elongated rectangular belts Windhaube: Germany. Balaclava. made of bleached strips of flax or dress flax fiber. Windsor tie: Black silk scarf cut on bias, hemmed all : Worsted fabric with pronounced twill. around, tied in loose bow at front neck. whisk: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 wing: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.) to Charles I and the C.E.). Woman’s wide falling collar trimmed in wide Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). Band of stiff mate- lace. rial hiding the armseye. It might be decorated in a white fox: Very delicate, long white, silky fox fur. number of ways. white scarlet: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Fabric with wing collar: Standing collar that undyed white background and scarlet cross-grain opens in front with two front dyed-in design. points folded and turned down. white turquoise: Chalky turquoise. See also Gladstone collar. whitework: Any embroidery worked in white thread wings: 1. Renaissance (1450–1550 on a white background. C.E.). Stiff, padded bands sewn whittle: Charles I and the Commonwealth (1625–1660 C.E.). into armseye as decoration. 2. Countrywoman’s large white Welsh flannel shawl. Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). whole backs: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.) to present. Side flaps of dormeuse. Coats made without center back seam. wining: Byzantine and Roman- wickler: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Austro-Hungarian esque (400–1200 C.E.). United Empire. In 1820s, redingote cut full, without cinched Kingdom. Worn by monks, waist. band worn around shins. Plu- wing collar wide-awake: Romantic (1815– ral is winingas. 1840 C.E.) to Bustle (1865–1890 winingas: See wining. C.E.). Countryman’s wide- winkers: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). United Kingdom. brimmed, low-crowned felt hat. Term used from 1816 to 1820 to mean high points of widow’s peak: 1. Hair growing man’s shirt collar, reaching up to the eyes. wide-awake in point in center of forehead. winkle-picker: (1950–1959 C.E.). 2. Mourning bonnet with point in center of fore- Extremely pointed toe on head. woman’s shoe. : Stiff, canvaslike fabric. Winslow lace: United Kingdom. wijde kniebroek: Holland. Knickerbockers. Lace made in the Buckingham- wikolia: United States of America. Hawaii. Fine lawn shire village, Winslow. used for dresses; Victoria lawn. wit: Holland. White. wildbore: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Late : Tall with a winkle-picker Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Sturdy, closely woven small brim. Based on the steeple hennin worn at the tammy. time of the first persecution of witches in England. willow: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Light green. witchoura: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Hooded, fur- willow green: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 trimmed Polish overcoat. Often worn like cloak with C.E.). Popular in 1811 and after, soft shade of green. sleeves left hanging. wyliecoat 317 witch’s hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 worsted: Fabric made of long strand wool combed C.E.). Woman’s hat similar to gypsie hat with brim straight and smooth before it is spun. bent down by ribbon which reached down from worsted work: Any embroidery made with worsted wools. crown. wotenall thread: See outnal thread. witney: Heavy woolen fabric. wraed: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). witschoura: See witchoura. United Kingdom. Filet. witte: Holland. Dimity. wrapping front dress: Directoire and First Empire woad: Natural blue dye similar to indigo. (1790–1815 C.E.). United Kingdom. Bodice of dress wœfels: See hacele. cut to fasten one side crossed over other. woeten: Germany. To clothe or to dress. See also kleiden. wrapping gown: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). woko: Nigeria. Man’s tailored garment for the upper Woman’s dress with wrap-over bodice and skirt. body. It is worn with a wrapper or trousers. wrap-rascal: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Crino- wol: Holland. Wool. line (1840–1865 C.E.). United Kingdom. Man’s loose Wolla: Germany. Old High German term for wool. overcoat. Wolle: Germany. Wool. wraprascal: See wrap-rascal. wolle: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.) wrigels: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). to Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). United Kingdom. United Kingdom. Veil worn by nuns. Middle English word for wool. wstazka: Poland. Ribbon. wollen goederen: Holland. Woolens. wu bian: China. Man who had the queue removed, a wollen mousseline: Holland. Delaine. form of punishment. wollen stof: See fijne. wu guan: China. Han dynasty (260 B.C.E.–7 C.E.). Woodstock gloves: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.) to Headdress worn by military officials on formal oc- Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. casions. Riding gloves made of fawn skin. wùla: China. Leather boots. wool: Fiber made from coat of sheep, 1-1/2 inches to 15 wull: United Kingdom. Old English word for wool. inches long and has natural crimp. wulla: Early Gothic (1200–1350 C.E.) to Late Gothic wool batiste: Fine, lightweight, smooth wool fabric. (1350–1450 C.E.). United Kingdom. Wool. wool bengaline: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). In 1892, wulle: See wull. a wool and silk blend. wundi: Nigeria. Middle-class man’s wide gown with a wool chiffon: Sheerest wool fabric. round neckline and two pocket slits on the chest. wool crepe: Woolen fabric with texture like crepe. wuqa: See wuqayeh. wool plain: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In the 1860s, a wuqayat al-darahem: Palestine. Bride’s money hat. white wool. wuqayat ed-derahim: See wuqayat al-darahem. woolenet: Thin woolen fabric. wuqayeh: Palestine. Woman’s simple head cover. Large wooloes: Trinidad. Bells hung around the base of the coin may be sewn on front edge. See also saffeh. Carnival Pierrot Grenade costume. Wurtenburg frock: Directoire and First Empire (1790– woolward: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.) to Elizabethan 1815 C.E.). Fashionable in 1813, dress or gown fas- (1550–1625 C.E.). To be dressed entirely in wool. tened in front under trim forming a jacket-like ap- worms: Early Georgian (1700–1750 C.E.). United King- pearance. Featured long lace sleeves. dom. Colored stripes on the lace in regimental dress. wyliecoat: Scotland. Petticoat, undervest, or nightdress.

X

xà-cap: Vietnam. Leggings. xian yi: China. Zhou dynasty. Ceremonial black clothes xà-cùr: Vietnam. Nacre. worn by emperors, kings, and officials. xale: Portugal. Shawl; plaid. xiang se: China. Greenish yellow, limited in Qing dy- xám xì: Vietnam. Ash gray colored. nasty (1644–1911 C.E.) to daughters of the emperor xamete: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.) Spain. Heavy, rich and low ranking consorts. silk, often embroidered with gold thread. xiàngliàn: China. Necklace. xám-xit: Vietnam. Dark gray. xiàngquàn: China. Necklace. xanh biec: Vietnam. Emerald green colored. xianhóng: China. Bright red; scarlet. xanh biéc: Vietnam. Deep sky blue colored. xiao yao jin: China. Jin dynasty. Older woman’s hairnet xanh da giò-i: Vietnam. Blue. trimmed with jade ornaments pinned on randomly. xanh da tròi: Vietnam. Sky blue colored. xicolli: Mexico. Man’s sleeveless garment. xanh ðam: Vietnam. Dark green. xie: China. Zhou dynasty. Ordinary high-heeled shoes. xanh dòrn: Vietnam. Green. Originally made from sheepskin and later from silk xanh durorng: Vietnam. Blue. and hemp. xanh lá cây: Vietnam. Green. xie zhai: China. In Ming dynasty (1368–1644 C.E.), xanh lo: Vietnam. Blue. badge worn by some officials that had a mythical xanh ngát: Vietnam. Very green; dark blue. beast with a scaly body and a horn. xanh tham: Vietnam. Dark blue; dark green. xiêm áo: Vietnam. Clothes. xà-rông: Vietnam. Sarong. xighu: Aztec. Huipil. xhurdine: Albania and Hungary. Short coat of heavy xi-líp: Vietnam. Man’s or bathing trunks. black goat-hair twill. It was trimmed with braids and xinghóng: China. Scarlet. a fringed collar. xinghuáng: China. Apricot. xhyrdin: See xhurdine. xiu shang: China. Zhou dynasty. Embroidered trousers. xi: China. Zhou dynasty. Most sophisticated shoes with xiùbiáo: China. Armband. wooden soles. xiùkou: China. Sleeve cuff. xia pei: China. 1. In Ming dynasty (1368–1644 C.E.), xiùzhang: China. Armband. woman’s embroidered neckband trimmed with gold xiùzi: China. Sleeve. and lace. 2. In Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.) in xong: Vietnam. Skirt. China, Han woman’s sleeveless tabard tied at sides. x-ray dress: (1910–1920 C.E.). A transparent gown. It reached below the knees where it ended in fringed xu-chiêng: Vietnam. Brassiere. pointed hem. First worn on wedding day and later xue: China. Zhou dynasty. Boots. for special occasions. xueqing: China. Lilac. xian: China. Wei, Jin and Southern dynasties. Long rib- xuyen: Vietnam. Glossy silk. bons hung from upper short skirt. xylorite: See celluloid.

319

Y

ya hoo lam: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). United States of yanhóng: China. Dark red. America. Chinese Hawaiian term for a robin’s egg yantraka: India. A dyer. blue polished cotton. yapanji: India. Rainy weather coat. yachting jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to Bustle yar chiki: Nigeria. Short-sleeved tunic with a stand- (1865–1890 C.E.). United Kingdom. Popular from the ing collar on a slit neck, three patch pockets, and a 1860s to the 1880s, a woman’s short, square, single- smocked front. or double-breasted, hip-length coat with large but- yar pariahan: India. Trousers. tons and loose sleeves. yareta: Bolivia. A shade of yellow. yacolla: Peru. Incan large, square robe worn over the yari yankunne: Nigeria. Earrings. shoulders. It was sometimes worn knotted on the left : See shash. shoulder. yashti: India. A necklace of gems and gold beads, with yagliq: Iran. Bandeau. a large central bead. yak lace: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). 1. A coarse, heavy lace yasti: India. Single string of pearls necklace with a gem made from the hair of the yak. It was fashionable for in the center. shawls. 2. A coarse bobbin lace from Northampton, yata: Panel of beadwork worn by Yoruba dancers. United Kingdom. yatshmagh: Iraq. Checkered kuffuja. yaka: Turkey. Collar. yeddo crepe: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in yakulla: Ecuador and Guatemala. Incan man’s rectan- 1880, a soft cotton fabric printed in Chinese patterns. gular cloak. yelek: See jellick. yallow: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Yellow. yellow jacket: China. A golden yellow silk jacket worn yaluk: Turkmenistan. Woman’s headscarf worn over on formal occasions as a symbol of imperial power the alan dangi. The ends are pulled over the face to or honor. serve as a veil. yelpaze: Turkey. A woman’s fan. yama-bakama: Japan. Literally “mountain trousers,” yem dai: Vietnam. Bib. tight fitting trousers. yemeni: Turkey. A block-printed cotton scarf. Yamato nishiki: Japan. Domestic Japanese nishiki. yeoman hat: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 yan: China. Blackish red. C.E.). A woman’s hat with a deep, soft crown that yana: Bolivia and Ecuador. Quichua term for the color gathered onto a band and a small turned up brim. black. yeri: See tobi. yana poncho: Ecuador. A black wool poncho with a yezmeh: Palestine. A horseman’s red or yellow leather thin band of colored machine embroidery on the boots with iron soles. shoulders. yi’chit tal: United States of America. Hupa Indians’ yang zhi: China. Rouge made from wild safflowers. moccasins. yangbok paji: Korea. Trousers. yín: China. Silver colored. yangmal: Korea. Socks; stockings. ying long: China. In the Ming dynasty (1368–1644 C.E.), yangmal taenim: Korea. Garter. a five clawed dragon with bat-like wings worn only yangsan: Korea. Parasol. by the emperor. yangzhiyu: China. Literally “mutton fat,” white jade. ying luo: China. Necklace of precious stones.

321 322 yinggelù yinggelù: China. Parrot green. yslopan: Wales. Slipper. yiordani: Greece. A net of gold plated beads that is ysnoden: Wales. Lace. worn as a chest ornament by women. yuage: Japan. Baby towel. yoji-nori: Japan. Resist paste used for fine line dyeing. yùdài: China. Jade belt. yoke bodice: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.) to 1890–1899 C.E. yuèbaí: China. Literally “moon white,” robin’s egg blue. United Kingdom. Popular in the 1880s and 1890s, a yuhada-kawa: Japan. Tie-dyed leather. woman’s yoked bodice or blouse. yuishiba-komon: Japan. Dotted design resembling yoke shirt: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). United King- ends of a bundle of fagots. dom. In 1898, a woman’s dual walking skirt with a : Japan. A summer cotton garment; an unlined pointed front yoke. cotton kimono for bath or summer wear; the fabric Yokohama crepe: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced used for these garments. in 1880, a cotton fabric with printed stripes in Japa- yukue-humei: Meizi (1867–1912 C.E.). Japan. Literally nese flower patterns. “missing,” a woman’s hairstyle. yoko-nishiki: Japan. Nishiki with pattern woven in the yulin baizhequn: China. Woman’s pair of aprons. weft threads. yumào: China. Rain cap. yonboratpit: Korea. Lilac. yun jian: China. In the Qing dynasty (1644–1911 C.E.), a yonmibok: Korea. Tail coat. Han woman’s four-pointed collar with the four lobes York tan gloves: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 worn over the chest, back, and shoulders. C.E.). Worn in 1807 and after, rough undressed kid yunatárja: Greece. Pair of stockings. leather gloves without a specific fit. yura poncho: Ecuador. A plain white poncho. York wrapper: Directoire and First Empire (1790–1815 yurak: Ecuador. Quichua term for the color white. C.E.). United Kingdom. Introduced in 1813, a wom- yùsè: China. Jade green. an’s high-necked jaconet muslin dress that buttoned yusha: China. Camlet. in the back. It was trimmed with diamonds of lace or yusoku orimono: Japan. Fabrics of Chinese origin that another form of needlework. were adapted by the Japanese. yoroi-hitatare: Japan. A large square-cut silk coat and yutu: Bolivia. Ornamental bird motif. trousers worn under the armor. yuxié: China. Rubber boots. Yoshinaka-zome: Japan. Dyeing process named for the yuyi: China. Raincoat. printmaker Yoshinaka Hambei. yùzan: China. Jade hairpin. youghal: Ireland. A flat needle lace with a distinctive Yuzen: Japan. Fine multicolored paste-resist dyeing pattern. process named for master dyer Yuzen. γoûva: Byzantine and Romanesque (400–1200 C.E.). Fur Yuzen birodo: Japan. Velvet with chiseled cut-pile de- coat. signs. y-phuc: Vietnam. Clothes. yuzen makinori: Japan. Traditional form of yuzen us- Ypres lace: Belgium. Lace made to imitate Valenciennes ing sown paste method. It creates a pointillist effect. lace. yuzen-zome: Japan. Starch dyeing. Z

zābaks: Lithuania. Boot. zanga: See zancha. zaboon: Iraq. Man’s long wrapped coat. Also calle saya. zànglán: China. Purplish blue. zache: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Italy. Doublet. zàngqing: China. Dark blue. zadblauwen: Late Gothic (1350–1450 C.E.). Ghent. Deep zante lace: Reticella lace made in Greece. blue. Zanzibar: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1872, a sandy zafiro: Spain. Sapphire color. brown. zafroni: See chamelia. zaohóng: China. Purplish red. zagalejo: Spain. Petticoat. zapáska: Russia. Woman’s back apron. zaituni: India. An olive green color. zapatillas: Spain. Slippers. zak: Holland. Pocket. zapato: Spain. Shoe. See also calzado. zakdoek: Holland. Handkerchief. zapato de mujer sin correas: Spain. Pump. zakiet: Poland. Woman’s coat. zapato oxford: Spain. Oxford shoe. zakkengoed: Holland. Burlap. zapon: Russia. Apron. zakkenlinnen: Holland. Sackcloth. zaragüelles: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Wide zalmkleurig: Holland. Salmon colored. breeches. : Spain. Sheepskin coat favored by shepherds. zarcillos: Ecuador. Earrings. zamarro: See zamarra. zardozī: India. Very heavy embroidery with gold or zambellotto: Italy. Black fabric imported from . silver done on velvet or satin. zamitum: See samite. zarī: India. Metal thread embroidery; silver lace. zamliyeh: Palestine. Woman’s green, yellow, and black zarost: Poland. Beard. striped headband worn to weddings. zarrin: India. A golden color. zammarros: Ecuador. Sheepskin chaps. zarzahan: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Spain. Thin zamora: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, a taffeta striped silk. shawl with bertha. zástera: Czechoslovakia. Apron. zamsz: Poland. Suede. zavelci: Romania. Apron with vertical designs. zamurradi: India. An emerald green color. zaveska: Bulgaria. Checked or striped piece of fabric zan: China. Hairpin. wrapped around the body from under the arms to zancha: Roman (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.). Tall, snug fitting the ankle and tied with a knitted cord at the top edge. boot made of soft black leather. Worn by Eastern zaybaqah: Palestine. Necklace. tribes under their trousers. záyres: Greece. Everyday shoes. zane: Nigeria. Wrapper that is worn as a belt. zazzara: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Coiffure zanella: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in 1848 involving fluffing out of the hair. and re-released in 1870s, sateen-like fabric used to zbroja: Poland. Armor. cover umbrellas. zé: China. Man’s headdress worn in ancient China. zanella cloth: Twilled fabric used to made umbrella feathers: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Introduced covers. See also gloria. in 1816, feathers artificially striped in two colors. Zanfretti mantle: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1859, zéédééldoi: Navajo. Necktie. almost circular mantle, significantly longer in back. zeemleer: Holland. Chamois.

323 324 zegelring

zegelring: Holland. Seal ring. zhùmá: China. Ramie. zeghe: Romania. Man’s long, thick drugget overcoat. zhuó: China. Women’s bangle bracelet. zeke: See condra. zhutu: Ecuador. Women’s handmade felt hat with a zelfkant: Holland. Selvedge. round top and a narrow brim. zelluuami: Hausa. Plaid cloth with a silk border. zi: China. Purple; violet. zenaq: Palestine. Chin chain used to hold the shatweh zibelina: See marta. in place. zibeline: 1. Thick wool fabric with long, silky hairs on zendado: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Very light one side. See also ripple cloth. 2. France. Sable fur. silk fabric from the Orient. zibellino: Italy. Sable. zendale: See zendado. zibun: United Arab Emirates. Man’s sleeveless wrap- zenith blue: Medium light blue. over garment worn over the kaftan. zenne: Hausa. A plaid cloth. zīds: Lithuania. Silk. zenne alffowa: Hausa. A light blue plaid cloth. žiedas: Lithuania. Finger ring. zephirina: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in zielony: Poland. Green. 1841, blend fabric used for coats. Ziertaschentuch: Germany. Pocket handkerchief. zephyr: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). Introduced in the zihóng: China. Purplish red. 1880s, light, fine gingham. Often woven with colored zijde: Holland. Silk. warp and fine weft. See also French gingham. zijden japon of toga: See zijde. zephyr armure: Bustle (1865–1890 C.E.). In 1879, lightly Zillon braid: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Straw resem- crinkled crepe. bling chip. zephyr cloak: Romantic (1815–1840 C.E.). Woman’s zimarra: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Italy. Man’s long cloak of lace or net with ankle-length points in overcoat, rarely worn girdled. Made of heavy pat- front. It was worn tied at the waist with a sash. terned silk or velvet and lined with silk or fur. zephyr cloth: Thin, fine cassimere. zimbelline: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). Introduced in zephyr gingham: See zephyr. 1856, mourning fabric between barege and para- zephyr shawl: Soft, lightweight shawl, often embroi- matta. dered. ziurstai: Lithuania. Apron. zerbaft: 1. India. Gold brocade. 2. Turkey. Velvet in zivka: Turkey. Man’s black or brown trousers fitted which a lot of gold thread was used. below the knee. Zerlina dress: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, a zlalzil: Berber wool shawl. gown with triple skirt. Bodice trimmed with quilted znak: Russia. Insignia; badge. pattern of diamonds that was repeated on the sleeves. zobe: Nigeria. Finger ring. zersej: Bosnia. Jersey. zobel: Imitation sable. zgarda: See ghiordan. Zobel: Germany. Sable. zgardan: See ghiordan. zoccolo: 1. Italy. Generic term for zha jia: China. Han dynasty (206 B.C.E.–7 C.E.). Coat of sandal. 2. Renaissance (1450– mail that tied over the shoulders. 1550 C.E.). Italy. Chopines with zhaijiepai: China. Qing abstinence plaque worn at the a leather shoe-like top. girdle to indicate the person was fasting as a part of zoeaaf: Holland. Zouave. a religious ceremony. zogan: Japan. Applied gold deco- zhan: China. Felt. ration on cloth; damascene. zhàopáo: China. Overall. zolty: Poland. Yellow. zhàoshán: China. Overall. zona: Greek (3000–100 B.C.E.). zhàoyi: China. Overall. Wide, flat belt worn by girls zhe: China. Reddish brown. and removed by their husband zoccolo zhe ji: China. Pleated coat with many variations in in the wedding ceremony and See also photospread length and closures. never worn again. (Foot and Legwear). zhéshàn: China. Folding fan. zonar: Belt worn by the Jews and Christians of the Le- zhi huan: China. Finger ring. vant. zhi sun: China. Yuan dynasty. One-color clothes worn zonder schouderbandjes: Holland. To be strapless. by the emperor and his courtiers. zone: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). United Kingdom. zhòu: China. Crepe. Popular in 1770s and 1780s, fabric piece used to fill in zhòubù: China. Cotton crepe. open bodice of a gown. zhuanglián: China. Trousseau. zoni: Greece. A woman’s belt. zhuhóng: China. Bright red. zonnebril: Holland. Sunglasses. zywr 325 zonnebruin: Holland. Suntan. : Small, round, ecclesiastical skull-cap. zonnenscherm: Holland. Parasol. zueco: Elizabethan (1550–1625 C.E.). Spain. Sabot. zoot suit: (1940–1950 C.E.). United States of America. zukin: Edo (1600–1867 C.E.). Japan. Literally “head- Man’s suit with coat extending almost to knees and cloth,” a cloth cap or hood worn in inclement trousers cut very full. Commonly worn with highly weather or at night. exaggerated accessories. Zuleka: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1858, woman’s Zopfzeit: Late Georgian (1750–1790 C.E.). Germany. A street basque fitted in the body. It had a vandyked man’s pigtail wig. bertha of net and ribbon. The basque was trimmed zōri: Japan. Sandals consisting of flat soles held on with with guipure and gimp. a thong that passes between the first and second toes. Zulima: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). In 1856, wom- zorro: Spain. Fox. an’s taffeta mantilla trimmed with moss velvet and zoster: Greek (3000-100 B.C.E.). Belt or girdle worn by crimped fringe. men. Zulu cloth: Twilled fabric of a tight weave. zouave jacket: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.) to 1890–1899 zunnar: Palestine. Sash. Square scarf striped or pat- C.E. United Kingdom. 1. Woman’s silk, velvet, or terned. Rolled diagonally to form sash. cloth jacket with rounded front corners that fastened zunnar asmar: Palestine. Woman’s black girdle. only at the neck. Based on jackets worn by the Alge- zunnar maqruneh: Palestine. Sash of green, red, and rian Zouave troops in Italian war of 1859. Popular yellow silk. 1859–1870 and in 1890s. 2. Little boy’s jacket similar zunnar tarabulsi: Palestine. White, red, and green to women’s style. striped sash. zouave paletot: Crinoline (1840–1865 C.E.). United zuòcán: China. Tussah silk. Kingdom. Popular in 1840s, man’s paletot of water- zuòsichóu: China. Pongee. proofed llama wool. zurband: Palestine. Woman’s silk veil that may have zouave pantaloons: Gay Nineties (1890–1900 C.E.). doubled as veil and sash. United Kingdom. Wide pantaloon gathered in at zuyacal: Guatemala. Palm leaf raincoat. knee, ending there in frilled band. zwanedons: Holland. Swansdown. zsáknadrág: Hungary. Literally “sack trousers,” full-cut zwart: Holland. Black. trousers made of hemp or a rough fabric. zwarte: See fijne. zuan: China. Qing dynasty. Bowl-shaped cap of palm zwempak: Holland. Bathing suit. fiber or hemp and covered in silk. Popular with Zwickel: Germany. Gusset. middle-aged women. Zylinder: Germany. Top hat. zubun: Bosnia-Herzegovina. Woman’s short, sleeveless zywr: Renaissance (1450–1550 C.E.). Hungary. Gray vest which ends several inches above the waist. fabric.

AppendixChapter A: Garment Title Types

ACCESSORIES

à l’espignole batom brumánika ch’úspas ‘a‘a puhaka beannag builg chustka ačē gumbō beauty patches bulavka ciarsūr acessório beidai bust forms cimds aglet bellotas butung cinch belt agrafe belti bwoom cīnctus agraffe benoiton chains cabestrillo cingătoare agulhade Berlin gloves cabriole cingillum aiglet Berlins cachecol cingulum militaire airmchrios bigotera cachelaid cinta ‘ajami bikini chain belt cadach cintaliga alforja birbíla cadenat cintura anantu hwinie bisha caefing cinturão anteojos bít-tãt tay calico china button circingle aparsaig bœlte can cneaball appas postiches boiseid cañari colan Austrian belt bokshandschoen canne colmar avasakthika boquilha canne à système concha bacchetta bosom bottles cannes demi-solde coquette badine bosom flowers cannes-dard cordeliere bahu bouffant mecanique cân-quac corking pins baju boulanger umbrella capacho coron Muire balg bouquet de corsage caracule correia articulada balgan boutonniere ceinture coudières balg-bannaig bracan cenojil countenances balg-thional braces ceruse court plaster ball-serice bragueta chai-chieh-p’ai crambaid bälte brandestoc changgap crios baltion brandistocchi chao dai criosan balusu breast hook charretera criosan biodag Balz bretelle chatelaine crios-ceangail bandanna brezekouki chauri crioslachan basma brezikúci chicken skin glove crios-pheilear bastão bril chip’angi crios-tarsainn baston con anima briosaid chumbi banderilla criss batistă bronnach chumpi cummerbund

327 328 Appendix A curea funda haling hands kajuk hyokdae cut-fingered gloves fusi halsdoek kakorízika dabao gadget cane hances kakshyabandha dai kou gadget stick händschen kaku obi daishi gairda handschoen kalabaku d’Angri galante hand-scio kaliki dannocks Galatea comb handske kalima hamo danpiàn yanjìng gallowses haneeka kamarband datemaki galluses han-eri kangha degenkoppel gant Hantschuoch kanzashis degenstok gants de Swède Hantscuoh kanzasi digitalia gants Régence hanzki kapesník doramché gartain heiyanjìng kardhani dornag garter heko-obi kashmir dou dou gaucho belt hemavaikaksha kaula uaki downy calves ge dai hezaam kayabandh drapi geideal hezam k’eša dress clip gemelos hinaka ketoh dress holder geolan hinaka ‘a‘i khan mùi-soa ear string ghungru hinaka paeke khan tay eau de veau ginglers hiogi kính trang end of the day giraffe comb hiranya-sraj knijpbril endima girdel hohos knobkerry English chain girdle à la victime hoo tau dai knoflik enjouee girdle glass hoofddoek knope haak epauleti Gladstone bag horitti kohl equipage glōf hose-bend kokade esmouchoir glofi huaaca koloa etui glùinean huaka kombologion faixa gordel huallquepo kooi faja gördel huayaca ko‘oko‘o ‘amana falt-dhealg gouriz humujìng kshat familla guanto hunting belt kumshigye faxiolion guard chain hwajang kusak fazolo gul yaqa hyanggap norigae kushak fazzoletto guo luo dai hyire kusi fengjìng gurda ‘ili kuapo kusti ferenn Gürtel irbora kyaphi fetel Gurtil istalla kyara-abura fetels gwregys itsembéri laine foulard fibula gyrdel jambee cane lájish ficheall gyrdel-hring japamala lāmann fivela gyrdels jarreteira làmhain flabells gyrdels-hringe jarretiere làmhan flower bottle gyrðill jatun chumbi lamhas fob ribbon habit glove jemmy cane lāmind fóci haer-naedl jessamine butter laska fogle hagorah jessamy gloves lei folly bells hainaka jiao dai lei ‘a‘i freiseau hainaka ‘a‘i josie lei ali‘i frutilla hainaka lei juosta lei hala fucus hainaka pa‘eke juostos lei hulu fue hainaka pakeke ka‘ai lei kamoe fukás hair strings kadémi lei kukui fukube-dana hakoseko kadife lei leho Garment Types 329 lei pani‘o mouche p’almok sigye pugovico lei papa mouchoir palulu maka punjang lei papahi mouchoir Alma pang’ adari norigae puoga lei pauku mouchoir de Venus pantserhandschoen putting stick lei pawehe mouchoir Victoria pañuelo quat quì lei po‘o mouchouer pañuelo para el cuello qubpa lei wiliwili moufles papilotte comb quitasol lenço mousquetaire papillotes quizzing glass li kakini muckender paraguas qusak li kaliki muff bracelet parchment calves raggiera liga muffetees parfait-contentement ramall Limerick gloves mukyeeng parure cornouailles randosel lindi murchal paryanka ranetz loo mask muscadine paryastika rasana loongee mùtan pás rat lucky bells mwaandaan passionee Recamier sash má hong namaakbusten patka rekawica maaporeth napkin patrontache rekawiczka maddavina napkin hook patta rhabdoskidophoros màineag näsduk peigne Josephine Ridgeway buckle majestueuse nasitergium penang lawyer romall makarika nèapaicin amhaich pennbazh rond makhila nèapaicin pòca pepperbox rosenadel malabar neckatee percatka Roxburgh muff Malacca cane nek’och ìpù perspective glass rukavica maldā nelpiloni petticoat suspenders saccharine alum manag nhãn-kính pha beang samjak norigae manchetknoop niciane rekawiczki phaa chet paak sanjaku-obi maneg nnup phãn sáp saptaki manitergium nodder phãn son sarandrana mantaqa nono-obi pirkstaine šayō mănuşă norigae pirštinė scépa marama nosine pishka Schiessstöcke maramica ntoa pistent Schnupftücher marate nyeeng plumpers schoudertas marguerite ô pochette seileadach mariposa obang-nangja pogoni seleulu martō obi point señore maru-obi obi-age pojas sgaileagan mata tioata obi-dome pójas shag mittens mayad obijime poking stick sharf meanaigean odonarium pollera shash megane odonium pomander shen dai melbbang ogi pomme d’ambre sherihah melppang òir-chrios pomme de senteur shigoki-obi mendil ojak norigae pompeian silk sash shnur mikini lima oogschaduw porte-jupe pompadour shoe horn minyiing oogscherm pósta shoujuàn miotag opera glove poyas showing horn mirchal orarium poynte shuwayhiyyeh mitons Oxford gloves prakhotaeo skimskin mòjing padapatra prawing-spinel slat-rioghail mokdori paenang prievite slaucis monétra pafte provincial rose sleeve tongs monócula pafti puch’ae smiotag 330 Appendix A smugadair taapeka tozali vonica smuig-aodach taatua hume Träger vú già smuigeadach taiko obi trahilia wàdài snoskyn tai-k’ou troussoir w’aka snowskin tai-shih truffeau wak’a snuftkin tàiyángjìng trus wandelstock sokophouder talede tsitseróña wanjang solosolo tali pakkaridi’ tti want sonsugon tamentika tu kartu wantus soudarion tanch’u tubbeck was and tam soyate t’ao t’ieh tuichje washing leather gloves Spanish paper tas van de Hooglanders tukula wawa chumbi Spazierstock Taschentuch tu-maurea wedding garter spendlík tashka tu-muka wedding gloves spleuchdan tasseled handkerchief tussoire wedding knives spliùchan tatquevluq tusuk whiitiki sròin-eudach tatua tuszo Woodstock gloves stagen tatua-pupara tuu hangoroa yangmal taenim stay hook tauri koomore tuu kaaretu yelpaze steutelreecx tekko tuu maro yem dai stibium temple spectacles tuu muka York tan gloves stithópano teneçir tuu ure zakdoek Stöcke mit Seele tephillin Twelve Apostles zhaijiepai stölebelte thi-kính uchilla maki chumbi Ziertaschentuch streachlan thung uchiwa znak strilinn tippling cane ugly zona Strumpfhalter tiracolo uilebril zonar subha tirantes uku churana zoni succinta titi up-legen zonnebril sudar tkanitsa usala zoster sudar sheal zero-othav toise mouvante vachóris zunnar asmar sūdārium t’okbaji vali zunnar maqruneh suppléants t’oljanggap vandyke zunnar tarabulsi surveyor’s stick toneelkijker ventoye Swiss belt totoga veshovi meshok taalapat tou tu vethaka

APRON aparan bréid-bronn demi-tablier gremial apch’ima bruinneadach diaraogenn hoover apron apron byala houta eip’uron houta aprūn carpenter’s apron ‘epane jocolo avental catrintoi epani kaldoh barber’s apron changalli fartuch karinca barclod chef’s apron fartuk kecelja barmcloth cialdini apron fertuch korenka barmecloth cocktail apron ffedog koteny barmfell coverslut fig leaf koto barmskin cretinta förkläde kruneforkle barvell criosan forklœde kurligatka bavette crios-ceangail fotaforkle lùireach leathair bearm-clap csipkeskötö fúta luirg-bheairt boscele delantal gavacha maaporeth bracconiere delantal de cintura grembiule màilleach Garment Types 331 mapoto panaúla pristelca titi-le-’au maro pántlikaskökö sarassang trus maro huka papalu sárena tu-hou maro kaakaapoo pastura sassang tuil-aodach maro kaukau pat gat schort Tukanitsa maro kopua pepetu schorteband tyes maro kura perednik Schürtze ‘umi‘i kuapo maro kuta pestelci Schürze voorschoot maro waero pinner šerret wéiqún maro waiapu pluinnseag sorti yulin baizhequn menagere poriann surc zapáska mrezhena prestilka pothia tablet zástera mukhu-wara prāiscīn tablier zavelci muna-medare pregaca tali ‘ele ‘ele ziurstai napron prieksauts tap-de opreg prijuostė tavancher

ARMOR adaabo braconniere combed helmet gangkai ailette braguette corazza gardebras almain rivet brannamh corium garde-collet almete brassard corr-léine garde-de-rein anima brayette corselet gauntlet anime bridle-gauntlet cotun genouillieres anlet brigandine couraca giáp annelet brium couters giáp-bào annulet Brustharnisch crios-claidheimh giáp-y áo giáp buckler cruth-lachd greaves armadura burganet cubitiere habergeon armadura del busto burgonet cūdō haidate armatura byrnie cuerbully hakoseko armet cabaset cuir-bouilli hankotana arming bolster cabasset cuirie hao mao arming doublet cailmhion cuish haubergeon arming points camail cuissard hauberk bacinet capacete cuissart haubert à maille double baguette cap-a-pie armor cuisse haubert clavey de double bainbergs cappelina culet maille balteum militare casco curace haubert doublier bambergs casque cuth-bhàrr hausse col barbute casque à la Tarleton demijambe hausse cul bascinet casquetel demipauldron heko-obi basinet ceann-bheart demivambrace helm bath-throid celada de engole elmo di giostra helmet baticol cerveliere enarme here-pād beaver chapel-de-fer epauliere heume bevor chapelle-de-fer frog-mouthed helm iron-pot bicoquet china cola gadlings jamb biorraid cimier gadlyngs jambart bishop’s mantle cingulum militiae galea jambe borstplaat close-gauntlet galerum jambeau bouchette cnemis galerus jazerant bourguignotte coif-de-mailles gambeson jumps bracer coiffette gamboised cuisses kabuto 332 Appendix A kaijia lùireach mhàilleach placcates spider helmet kaku obi luirg-bheairt poitrel splints kancuyao màilleach privy coat taces kapa kila mammelieres quiret tasse kask manica rerebrace tasset kaska mentonières Rüstung tassettes koshiate Milan coat salade tilting-helm kote ming guang kai sallet Todenkopf kuras montera sannaha tong xiu kai Kurass morion Schaller tonlet kyne mufflers scheenplaten tou tu lamboys oriellettes schynbaldes tuille lambrequin pale kila sgaball uchdach leis-bheart palettes shell uchd-bheart liang dang kai pallets shihan vambraces lobster helmet pallettes shirastra ventail lorg-bheart pansiere shirastra jala visor lorica Panzer sirsa kataha wapenrusting lorica hamata pauldron sode zbroja lorica plumata pectorale solleret zha jia lorica segmentata pickelhaube spangehelm zhu lorica squamata placcards speilp

BODICES, BLOUSES, AND SMOCKS

à la du Barry corsage bib blouse cuerpo baxo huipil à la Grecque corsage blusa cufaica huipil grande à la Louis XV corsage bluska cuirasse bodice huipil ranciado Agnes Sorel bodice bluza culeco iie Agnes Sorel corsage bò-lu cutaveica Isabeau corsage amazon corsage bow blouse dhumani jabot blouse Anglo-Greek bodice buba Directoire coat jhaggā antique bodice burausu Directoire jacket jhaggī áo bà-ba burchanka Dutch waist josephine bodice áo cánh bust bodice empire bodice kabátek áo côc camisón enagua kācali áo cut caroline corsage fanfreluche bodice kācavo aupakaksiki casaque bodice fuubu kamis baby bodice casaquin bodice Gallo-Greek bodice kamkho bag bodice cased body Garibaldi blouse kanchali baju bodo choli Garibaldi bodice kanchulika baju kurung circassian bodice genthulla kancuka Balkan blouse Clarissa Harlowe corsage gilet kebaya balmoral bodice cliabhan-ceangail gonbaiz keptar bàn coat-bodice Grecque corsage kiel bàn-gheal codiarte guimpe kittel baro cofta guj koshoulya basque waistband corpetto gùn na h-eaglaise kosnyo basque-habit corpiño gùn odhar kurpasaka basquin body corsage à la Maintenon gypsy blouse kurti batakari corsage en corset habit bodice la vierge bavlnka cot halter top Laibli beur coton hatte lakeke bewar cottage front huepilli leefekye Garment Types 333

Leibchen Norma corsage Russian blouse turret bodice léine-bhàn pakana sgùird tzakos lemba pari muka shell Veronese cuirasse lembe peek-a-boo waist shirtwaist veste Russe lijf peplum basque Sicilian bodice Victoria bodice lijfje peplum bodice siu fung sin violin bodice Louis XIII corsage pirahan stanamsuka Watteau body luto huipil plastron stanik Watteau costume Maintenon Corsage pompadour bodice stomacher bodice whalebone bodice Marie Stuart bodice pulrausu surplice bodice xighu marquise bodice refirha sweater yoke bodice middy blouse rékli Swiss bodice Montespan corsage robin front tanutra nagrudnik róngyi tingmiak naguilla roxalene bodice town blouse

COLLARS AND RUFFS

‘a‘i kala cô’ tay French ruff maniakes ai ling coilēar gadroon masher collar ‘a‘iku coileir garde Française m-cut collar ‘a‘ilepe coler gau liang Medici collar ‘akala collar à la Vandyke Geneva print ruff military stock Albert collar collar of esses Gladstone collar moat collar Alexandra collar collare gola muinead all-rounder collerette golilla muinge amazon collar collet monte goller Napoleon collar anglaise colletto Gollier nasgadh apikaklé collo gouzougenn ogrlica apkakle corsage à la vierge gran gola or-choilear arched collar cowl collar guler panteen collar argile Cromwell collar guleras parricides band cuello halsboord Peter Pan collar band strings cuello bebés hault collet Piccadilly collar bann-muineal cuello bote Hungerland band pierrot ruff berta cuello burberry Italian collar p’i ling bertha cuello capuchon jaka piling Betsie cuello chal Judenkragen plain bow stock bōna cuello chino kata-eri polo collar bouleau cuello de pajarita kletje portefraes burrail collar cuello eton klier portrait collar Buster Brown collar cuello mandarín kola Prussian collar Byron collar dux collar kolnierz rabat cabbage-ruff elliptic collar kraag rabatine cáqui eri krage rabbi carcaille esclavina Kragen rebato cardinal Eton collar krave Robespierre collar cardinal pelerine falling band lá sen Rosebery collar cartoose collar fanling lechugilla rotonde ceabet fichu-canezou lettice ruff rotonne chal flip límec ruff chelsea fraise ling tao sarpe Chelsea collar fraise à la confusion ling yue saucer-collar cô’ con fraise à la Gabrielle lingzi shag-ruff 334 Appendix A

Shakespere collar superhumeral treble ruff wing collar shawl collar Swedish cuffs Vatermörder winkers stand-fall collar tab collar vorotnicek yaka stìom-bhràghaid tàszli vorotnik yun jian sugar teud-bhràghad Wendelring suit of ruffs toby ruff whisk

COLOR abiyad argent beni broithdheanta absinthe arghwani berettino bronze acajou army green bermejo bruin acier arroxeado bermellon brun acter arruivado bianco brunatny adelaide asagi bích-không bruno Adelaide blue ashantee biec bruschino adhranga asli bigio buidhe adriatic green asmani bìji buidhe-bhan aerdhaite asmar bìlán buidhe-dhonn aetherial atshi bìlù buidhe-ruadh ago duku aubergine bird of paradise buidhe-shoilleir ‘ahiehie auburn birinji buidh-liath alabaster aurifère birisi burak alesan aurora birodo burdeos alezan autumn tea brown bishop’s blue burgoyne alfi aventurine bister burgundy alicante avocado bistre cachou Alice blue awondwa blanc cadet blue alizarina azafran blanco cadet gray all azul blanco cremoso cafe alma brown azulado blau cafe au lait amaranth azulmarinho blauw cafe claro amrillento amaranthus color azur blé de Turquie cafe rojizo amarelo azure blé mur càin amarillo azuren blé vert caiqing ambohai azurline bleu cairtidh amelie azuur bleu Anglais caldron amelle azzurro blondine California American baby blue bois de rose camel American green baby pink borak camelite amphibole bacchante boreal camelolepard amuva baço borgeon canary yellow anamite badami bosphore green cane color ananas badshah pasand bottle-green cang anaranjado bàin-dearg bouffon cangcang anguri baise bouffron canghuang anil baizi boulanger cánh dán ao-iro balílà bouton d’or cánh-kien Apollo ballpark blue bracach canoque apple green bàn branquidão capri apricot banafsai braun capri blue araignée méditant un bàn-gheal brazowy capuchin crime banker’s blue breac-liath capucine ardoise barbel brōc caqui argaman basc broith cáqui Garment Types 335 cardinal red cineraire crubhas ‘ea ‘ula carmelite cini crubhasg eabonach carmezim cinzento crushed strawberry eaglewood brown carmin citrine cui ebomvu carmine clair de lune cuìù eburneo carminio clarence blue cuir ecarlate carnation clearc cuoroncou ecarlate blanches caroubier cobalt blue cyan blue ecorce caspian cobhrach cypress ecru cassis coccum czarny ‘efu ‘efu castagnino coeur de melon czarny jak smola Egyptian brown castanho colar de pérolas czerwony éhuáng castano color aceitung Dagmor blue elderberry castillian red colorado dàhóng eldergreen castor colori corozoso dàilù ‘ele hiwa ceara congbái dam-thanh ‘ele‘ele céire conglù ðan ‘ele‘i celadon congo Danjuro cha ‘eleuli celeste congo red dànqing ‘emelala celestial convolvulus dàoguàjinzhong emerala cendre de rose coomassie datilado emerald centre de Cedra coquelicot de Berri emeraude cereja cor de France eminence cereza cor de laranja de Roi ‘ena cerulea cor de rosa dead Spaniard ‘ena‘ena cerulean blue coral dearg ‘ena‘ena mumu cetrino corbeau deirge encarnado chaetpit corcuir ðen lánh engkudu chajutbit corcur Devonshire brown English scarlet chàm corcurachd dian epingles de nourrice chamelia corinth blue dilbahar escarlata champai corinthe green dilhil escarlata subido chase cornflower dima escarlate chasseur corozoso dò choé esterhazy châtain couleur-de-roi dò chói Eugenie blue chatiagne couroncon dò chót eveque chaudron crà-gheal donkerblauw fa ‘ataelama chaume crambaid donn fakhtai cheng cramoisi donn laugh-na-h-éilde falwe chermisi crane color donn-ghlas fei chermisino crapaud mort d’amour donn-uaine feihóng chihese crapaud saisi douanier feisè chìhóng crèach drab style fenhóng chilum cream dreach-bhuidhe feòil-dhaith te chinbunhongui crema dubh-bhuidhe feòil-dhath chinese green cremisi dubh-ghlas ferozai chinhongsaek cremorne dubh-ghorm feutre chocolat au lait crimson dubh-ruadh firozi chocolate crn dudhai kanjai flamme de punch choksaek crnac dudhia khaki flann ch’ongsaek cròchach dunkelblau flannach ch’oroksaekui crò-dhearg durazno flann-dhearg chu cronnt dust of Paris flea ciel blue crottin dust of ruins flesh cihrai Crown pearl ‘ea malani fleur de peche 336 Appendix A fleur de soufre grigio ijzergrauw keear flexine grijs imperatrice keorai florentine grijs blauw Imperial gold kersrood floxine grin incarnat kesariya fly’s wing gris incarnate khaki fo-bhuidhe gris Anglaise indaco knight’s blue fond de casserole gris de fer Indian kobaltblauw forester’s green gris humo Indian green kodongsaek fo-ruadh gris parduzco indigo kohlschwartz framboise gris ratón Indigoblau kokoo fuchsia grisalho ink gray kolor granatowny Fuchsie groen ipsiboe kolor khaki fufuo gros bleu Isabella kombukta fuigheag gros vilain vert Isabella color komp’uruda fuiliche groseille Isley green komun fuilidh grun ivory kon fumee guinda jacqueminot korozen fumee de Londres guirmean Japanese rose kotai gahra gulabi gulbi Japonais kumbit gai pee jau sa gul-e-anar jaquemar kumkuma gàn gulenar jastai kuning gandhaki gul-i-sarrai jaune kunono gànqing gulpumbah jiàng labang garnet gurača jiàngsè lal gay gusanillo jiàngzì lanumoana geal haiena jigari laranja geel hair jin huang lavanda giall’ antique halba jonquille lavende giallo halchii’ josie lavender giallo antico hamo ‘ula Judas color Lavinia gitzwart ha‘ula júhóng laylock glas ha‘ula‘ula júhuáng lazur glauco havane k’aak’isaekui lazurowy gobelin blue havannah kafuri leetsoii goirridh hazel kahi lelieblank golden tea brown hè kaironan leth-ruadh goose-turd he‘a kaki lézard gooseturd greene hei kalsaek lhani Gordon blue hellviolet kama‘ehu liath gorge de pigeon hemelsblauw kamalaharitacchaya liath ghorm gorm heron kamalena liath-ghuirme gorm-aotrom himmelblau kame-nozoki liath-phurpur gorrym hi‘ohi‘o kamsaek libá goud hoa cà kanjai lichen goudbruin hoesaek kapasi lichíí gouden hóng karmesin lichtbruin grant hongsaek karmijn lie de Bordeaux grape brown hóngyànyàn karminrot lienzo de algodón grasshopper green huángcàncn karmozijnrood lightgroen grau Humboldt purple kasaya lila grauw hunhuáng kasni lilac gré húsè kastanienbraun lilac gray grege hwangsaek kastanjebruin lilack grey lilac iar kasumbi lila-röz gridelin iar-dhonn kasztanowaty lilás Garment Types 337 lino midori nsa patalani lino irlandes Milan nussbraun pato‘i lionceau milk and water ocra pavonazzo lìsè misè ocre pavot lizhin mo gà odhar peach loden green Modena red ‘ohelohelo peacock lona moegi oiseau pea-green London dust moiré oliva pearl gray London mud mòlù olivâtra pechschwartz London smoke monachino olive pensée loutre monster green olive drab periwinkle lovat montebello olivenfarbig perruche lucifer morado oliwny perse lustie-gallant morello òmar Persian lilac ma canh gián morone onion white brown pervenche mã da cam motia onrijp perzikbloesemkleurig madas motiya Ophelia petunia madow mulberry orange phillamot magenta mulot orange tawny phoinos maiden hair mummy brown orangegelb phul gulabi maide’s blush mumu sesega oranje piazi mais mumusali òrbhuidhe pigeon’s breast majithi murasaki orchid pigeon’s throat maku‘a murray oreille d’ours piniki maku’e murrey orenjibich‘ui pink mallow-color murry Orleans brown pinlán malvenfarbig musqin orphelian pinlù mama‘o mustard ortie pinyuè mandarin nacarat orzechowy pistache manilla naccarat oseille cuite pistachio color manilla brown nakara color ouhe pistai máolán narangi ousè pistak ma‘oma‘o natural beaver oxide plomb marfil Navarino smoke oyokoman plum Marie-Louise blue navy oyster plunket marine blue navy blue paars pomaranczowy marineblauw ndului pactole Pomona green marmotte négrillon pagonazzo pompadour maroon negro pala ‘ehu pompeian red marrom negro carbón pale lilac brown ponceau marron negro como azeviche palestine po‘o hina marshmellow nezumi-iro palisandre popielaty martinpècheur nguyêt-bach palo di lione popinjay maryland Nicholas blue pansy popolohua mashi nickel gray panti poratpit massereen blue night of France blue paonazzo porcelain mãu da giòi nil paran porfira mãu do nima-pot p’arang porphura mauve noir pardillo porphyry méihóngsè noisette pardo porpora melemele noksaek pardo amarillento pourpre melemele ‘ili ‘alani nonomea pardo opaco pourpre gris mésange norat’a pardo rojizo pourpre sanguine Metternich nos parduzco poussière mexican noyer Parma violet poussière de Paris 338 Appendix A poussiere des ruines roso soilleir-dhonn tus preto rossetto solferino tutki primrose rossiccio sora-iro tuutum Princess Elizabeth lilac rossignol sorrel uaine prune de Monsieur rot sosni uaine-donn prune Dumas rouge sourés uaine-dorcha pualena rouille souris éffrayée uauahi puce ròusè Spanish blue ukon puke roussâtre Spanish fly ‘ula pukta roxo spring ‘ula hiwa punch Royal turquoise star of the morning ‘ula maku‘e purée de pois ruadh staubfarbig ‘ula waina purpaidh ruadh-bhuidhe strammel ‘ula weo purper ruaithne straw ‘ulahea púrpura rubái strokleurig ‘ula’okoko purpurea rubro sublime ultramarine purpuren ruby suédoise unnabi púrpureo russet sumi unpich’ui purpurfarben Russian flame surmai unpit purpurowy sabz moongia suzushi uraq-awa purpurrot safed szary usuaka p’uruda safira szkarlatny usugake p’urun sainre tagalsaek usuzumi q’alaq’awa sakala taisha vàng ánh qinglù salmon tarbuzi vàng khè qirmizi sám ánh taupe verd Nile quilitl sám bac tawney verde raktani sám ðõm techeleth verde celedón ramio samasama tekhelet verde césped ramoneur sandali telegraph blue verde limón raso sanguine terra-cotta verde nilo rat’s color sangyn terranine verde salvia raymond sarde terre de Cuba verde trébol red sausani terre de Pologne vermelhão red lilac scarabee terre d’Egypte vermelho regina scarlatto Thibetine vermilion regine purple scarlet thiers red vert riabhach scharlaken thistle-green vert malachite Rikan cha schwartz tí vésure rocana Schweizergelb tianlán victoria rocher sebki tianqing vieil argent rojo semea tige d-aillet violet of the Alps rojo Congo serpent tilleul violeta Roko cha Sèvres blue toley volcan rood sharbati toruphulli volubilis roodbruin shell pink tosaek wai kula rooskleurig shrimp tourterelle watchet ròsach shuilù trang bong wedgewood rosado sickly green trang nõn weo rosaniline siwy trocadero whey rosato smaragdfarben trurng sáo willow Rose de parnasse smaragdgrun tuose wit rose des Alpes sneachd-gheal turchino xám xì rose sublime snieznobialy turkils xám-xit rose tendre soi turquoise xanh biec Garment Types 339 xanh da tròi xinghuáng yuèbaí Zanzibar xanh dòrn xueqing yurak zaohóng xanh durorng yallow yùsè zarrin xanh lá cây yan zadblauwen zhe xanh lo yana zafroni zhuhóng xanh ngát yanhóng zaituni zi xanh tham yareta zalmkleurig zielony xiang se yin zamurradi zihóng xianhóng yinggelù zànglán zolty xinghóng yonboratpit zàngqing zwart

DYE AND DYEING TOOLS aal fuchina kuro-ume-zome purple acid dye garanza Kyo-zome rokechi ‘ahina geru lacca roketsu akane gobaishi laharia ro-ten-kechi aka-ume-zome gorocana leheria shahab ákna guirmean Lincoln green shibori al haldi madder shike-ito alizarin henna magenta Shimokyo-zome aniline hitta-zome mame-shibori shoaizome Arimatsu shibori ho mat mii sickly green bandhani ikat mokume-shibori stencil dye batik indigo moro suo bingata kachi murasaki talama bokashi kanoko nama ha zome tau brillantes kariyasu nanako-kokechi tinte brok kasuri nileh Tyrian purple cochineal katagami njekloe wai ‘ele cochinilla katatsuke oboro-zome wai ‘ele‘ele colorante acido kata-zome Old Navajo Dyes woad cremesino katazome omote kon’ya Yoshinaka-zome deargan kazuki patch dye Yuzen Diamond dyes khombu piedra de añil yuzen makinori dubhach kna plangi yuzen-zome Egyptian indigo kokechi pourpre esono koketsu praveni

FABRIC

‘a‘a lole abu hizz ahmar adanudo cloth Agra gauze ‘a‘a niu abu miten adati ahata tantrika ‘a‘a‘a abu sab’in addhacina ‘ahina ‘a‘amo‘o acala cotton Adelaide wool ahinvala abba acanalado adinkra cloth ahuasca ábbasi acca adire cloth ahuaska abbot’s cloth Acele adire eleko Aida canvas abe aceta Admiralty cloth ailanthus silk ab-i-hawa acetaat adrianople ‘ainakini ab-i-rawan acetate aeolian airplane cloth abougedid acetato aerophane aizome momen abrasam Acrilon agala akathorasbhagarvako- absinthe Ada canvas agihila mala 340 Appendix A akoko amsu-patta atlas balzarine akongo amsuyam atlas khasu balzerine akpwem Amy Robsart satin atlas silk bamagia aksamit amyan ikondo atsuita bambak aksun anabas attaby bambulo alaballee anart garbh au dekls bandekin alacha Anasazi stripe twill audeklas bandhani aladzás Anatolian silk Augusta bandhej alajah Anatolian wool Augusta cloth bandle ālamgīrī andalusian aurna bandle linen ālamjarī angel skin Australian wool bankuo alamode anger Austrian shade cloth bannockburn ‘alapaka anglo-merino ava cotton bao bó alapine angora avaska bao táo alari anserine avignon báosha zhiwù alaska anterne awasqa barasi albangala antique finish awning baratea albatross antique satin aya barathea Albert cloth antique taffeta Aylesham Barchent Albert crepe appicciolato Azetat barège alchah applebloom babadu barège Anglais aleejah appleblue baby flannel barège de laine alepin aranzel badara barège de Pyrenees alepine aratae badhani barège-grenadine alessandrino Argentine cloth badstof baréza alexander armazine baeta bari alexander twill armoire bafota bark cloth Algerian stripe armoisin bafota malandy bark crepe algerienne armozeau baft barlingham algerine armozine bafta barmillian algodón armure bag Holland baronette alkilla armure satinee bag sheeting barpour allapeen armure-laine bagdad barracan alleja armurette bagdad wool barracano alliballi arnel bagging barragan allieballie arpillera bagheera barras alloutienne arras bahia sheeting barratee allucciolati artificial silk baiberek barratine alma asaweri baibu barre alpaca Asbestall bainin bashōfu alpaga asbestos bairam basin de laine alpagas ashira bairami basma alpago ashish baise basta cloth Alpaka ashrafī baize batavia cloth altibajo asisa balandran Batist alto e basso asmodée balayeuse batist amazon asi-ebi balbriggan batista ambara aso-oke baldachin batiste ambaram asparasanumeya baldekin batiste de laine ambari assam cotton balernos batiste de soie amen assili cotton baline batswing American cloth astar balloon cloth Battist amphimalla astrakhan balmoral batyst amphitapa atataakoro balmoral cloth baudekin amsuka Atlas balmoral crape baudekyn Garment Types 341

Baumwollsamt biancherie dammaschinate bourdon lace Brussels camlet bavalla bianchetto bourette bù bavlna bibizári bourette mousse buac bawełna bietta bovelna bùbó bayadère bihari box cloth bucaran bayadère poplin bili javali brabant Buddun khas bayeta birisi bracecloth buffalo cloth bayonnaise birisii brakan buffin bays bishop cotton branched velvet bugis bayt al-sham bishop’s lawn Brazilian corded sarcenet bukskin bazayl bivertina breacán bulbulchasm beabhar black-a-lyre breadeen bulgara cira bearams blanc breakan Bulgarian cloth beatelle blancard bréid bumbac beatilla blanket cloth bréidín bunting Beatrice twill blauwe duffel brēit burak beaudoy blazer cloth bretenne lace buratto beaupers bó brethyn burberry cloth beaver cloth bobbinet Bretonne lace bure beaver fustian bocací bridgwater burel beaverteen bocaran Brighton nap buridan beche-cashmere boccaccino brillianette buriel bedford cloth bodkin cloth brilliante burlap Bedford cord bofeta brilliantine burnet bedrukt katoen Boi brilliants burnley bedrukte katoenen stof bokasyn brim burrah beetling bolivar brissimi bustian beige bolivia Bristol red butcher’s linen beige damasse bombasette Brittany butternut beiramee bombasino Brittany cloth buttery cotton Belgian lace bombazet broadcloth buzu Belgian linen bombazina brocade byatilha Bemberg bombazine brocado byramee benares bombei brocado raso de pelo byrampaut bendera bombycina brocantine byrams bengal bomuld brocart byramy bengal stripes bomull brocatel Byrd cloth bengalina boneette brocatelle byssine bengaline bông brocatine byssus bengaline constellation bongos brocato byzantine bengaline de soie bont broche byzantine granité bengaline poplin book linen broché caballeros bengaline russe boomwol broché silk serge caban beram borada crape cloth broella cabeca berber boratto brogetie cabesa Berlin canvas borgana broglio-broglio cable net Berlin wool Boston net brokaat cabot beronis botany Brokat caceres beteele Botany wool brown Holland cachemira betteela bouche brown linen cachemire bez bouclé brown sheeting cachemire de soie bhaga boumwolle brunete cachemire marguerite bhagela bouracan Brunswick cloth cachemire royal bhurra bourbon cotton brushed wool cachimira 342 Appendix A cadadh canavaccio çatma cheney cadās candlewick caungeantries chenille cadet cloth cangan caurimauri cherryderry caen canganes Cavalry Cheviot caffa caniche cayenne cheviot caffoy cannellato ceadach cheviot tweed caichóu cannequin cealtar chevron de laine cailmleid cantaloon cebtí cheyney cainb canton crepe celam chhint cainb-aodach canton flannel Celanese chiang chau cainsil cantoon cellular cloth chicon cakresvari canvas celtic weave chicoree calamanco capichola cendal chiffon calamatta caracule material cendryn chiffon batiste calavia carda cerata chiffon lace Caledonian silk cardinal cloth cetim chiffon net calibri cardinal white ceylon chiffon taffeta calico carmeline ceylonette chiffon velvet calicó carmelite chaconada chifón calimanco carnagan chaddar chifón terciopelo calmuc caroline chadoe chijimi calton carpmeal chagrin chillo camaca carpmeal white chainsil China calico camacaa carreau amazone chaisel China cotton camall carrel chalinet China damask camayeux silk carrickmacross challie China gauze cambaia carrickmacross lace challis China grass cambali carrodary chambery gauze china patta cambaye carthagena chambertine China silk cambelloto casbans chamblette Chinaseide cambray casement cloth chambord chinchilla cloth cambray liso casemira chambray chiné cambresine casha chamois cloth chino cambric cashmere chamoisette chint câm-châu cashmere de baize champaigne cloth chintes caméléon cashmere syrien champeyn chintz cameleon antique cashmere twill chana-chani chirimen camelin cashmerette chandtara chita cameline cashmerienne changeable taffeta chitão camelot cashmire de bège channon cloth chite camel’s hair cloth casimir charmè chitra camlee casimir de soie charmeen chitta camlet casimira charmelaine chivaret cammaka casimiro charmés chlopok cammello casket cloth charmeuse cholst cammocca cassenet charmeuse felt ch’on câ’m-nhung cassimere charvet chóu camoca cassimerette charvet et fils de Paris chóuduàn camocas cassinette chatoyante chóuzi camocato castellan delaine chau chubut wool camocho castor cheater’s cloth chuca canabhas castorina cheesecloth chudan canach catalowne cheklaton chunari canaichean catalpha chekmak chusi cañamazo doblado catgut chènbù chya mun bo Garment Types 343 cicilian cloth cotton flannel crespón georgette Damast ciclaton cotton foulard crespón marroqui damast ciclatoun cotton pongee crespón musgo Damhirschfell cina cotton taffeta crespón romano dandaprakara cinamsuka cotton velvet cress cloth da-n-katanga ciolar cottonade crest cloth deboan circas cottonette cretona degummed silk circassian cotwm cretonne delaine ciré Courtauld crape crinolina delinere ciselé velvet Courtauld’s new silk crisp demerara citra-kapardaka crepe croché demi-mousseline citravastra coutil crocus dendeki cittalam cover coat croise cloth dengxinróng clāp Covercoat croizette blue denim Clay worsted covert cubica denkuro-zome clòimh coyoichcatl cubù Denmark satin cloister cloth cranky checks cudari deogir cloth of gold crape cuille deriband cloth rash craquelé net culgee derries clouded lustrings crash cumábù desoy coācta cravenette cumáoyàng desvadusya coburg cremyll cumbi devadusa cobweb lawn crepe cumbly devagiru cogware crepe aerophane cumly devanga colbertine crepe anglaise cummul devanga-cira collar canvas crepe back satin cumpi devil skin collodion silk crepe charmeuse cuppalium dhautakanseya comley crepe de Chine cùrainn dhautapatta concertina cloth crepe de laine cùrainn-chneas dhota-patta constitution cord crépe de Suisse curled silk dhoti constitutionals crepe georgette currac dhumarai convent cloth crepe imperial curracag dhurrie corde du Roi crepe lisse cursey cloth diaper cordeliere crepe marocain cut velvet diaper cloth cordellate crepe maretz cutar diaphane corduroy crepe meteor cuttanee diasper corinna crepe myosotis cuyuscate diaspurum corset batiste crepe plissé cynara dibahae cin cossas crepe poplin cyprus dima cotan crepe royal dacca muslin dimie cote de Cheval crepe-de-china dagswain dimity cote de Genève crepeline dai fong chau dindilliam côtelé crepelle daisy belle djedda cotelé fino crepoline daisy cloth dobby cloth cotelette crepon dalahany docrease coteline crepon milleraye damas doeskin cotone crepon Persian damas lisere Doitsu ahina cô-tông crep-satén damaschino domette cotonia crespe damasco donegal cotoun crespo damascus donsu cotswold crespón damasellours dorea cotton crespón arena damask doria cotton back satin crespón de Cantón damaskin doriya cotton cambric Crespón de China damassé dorneck cotton crepe crespón de lana damassin dorretteen 344 Appendix A dorsetteen dunster estameña filet lace dosooty durance estamene filozella do-suta Durene estamine filozetta do-suti Duretta estampado filt doti duretty estopa Filz dotted swiss duroy estopilla fingroms dowlas durzi estrella Flahs DPM dutis estrich Flanders serge drab dutty estridge flannel drabbet duvetina estrith flannelette drap duvetine etamine flanyela drap d’Alma duvetyn etamine broché flat crepe drap d’Argent dzaan étoffe Flaxon drap de Berry e sa etoile fleax drap de billard ēadach Etruscan cloth fleece drap de France ebolo etu Flehtan drap de Paris eccelide everlastings Flemysshe cloth drap de soldat echizen exhibition checks fleur de thé drap de velours ecossais express stripes flex drap de Venice egasuri eyelash floki drap d’ete egenni bitte eyelet embroidery floramedas drap d’or Egyptian cloth ezo nisbiki florence drap fourreau Egyptian cotton faglia Florence satin drap laitiere eiderdown faille florentine drap o drapé ‘ekemau‘u faille crepe florinelle drap roulier ekpe cloth faillette flurt-silke Drapé elastic falánróng flushings drapo elatch falding fluweel drappus elatcha Falkland Island wool fong chau drawboys electra cloth falla contrama crespón footing dreadnought elephant cloth fanbù forest cloth Dresden silk Eliottine silk fandewai forest white Dresden work ellementes Fane forestry cloth dríli elminetta fangchóu forfar drill elysian farandine Fortuny print drillette embroidered batiste farmer’s satin foulard drobé empress cloth fat quarter foulard de laine drògaid empress gauze fearnothing foulard poile de chevre droghette encerado fearnought foulé droguet English mohair feilt foundation net droguete ensign cloth félpa franela drugget entretela felt franela de Canton druid’s cltoh eolica feltro franela ligera duàn eolienne ferret-silke fregio duànzi eolienne diagonal fessagida French back serge ducape epangeline feutre French back twill duchesse epingle fibre chamoise French cambric duchesse satin epingline fieltro French crepe duck epingline chevron soie figurero French gingham duffel epingline flotté soie figuretto French merino ðui epingline raye figury French net dukr epinglorie brochée fijne French percale dukula eponge fil de Chevre friar’s cloth dulápi escuaypiles fil de vierge Fries dungaree esparto filé fries Garment Types 345 frieze gaze à bouquets Greek stripes har frisa gaze de Chambery greige goods harden frise gaze de fantaisie grenadine hardhanger cloth frisé gaze d’Orient grenadine rayée haren stof frisé brocade gaze gauffree grinsing harir asli frizado gazeline barege grisaglia harir nabati frizé gazzatum grisaille hariry frou-frou gebauw grisalla harlem stripes frou-frou gauze gelumbė grisette harlequin plaid fuchou genappe cloth grober Wollstoff harrateen fuigheag Genoa plush grobes Wollzeug harrington fuji Genoa velvet grof weefsel harris fustaine gentish grogram harris tweed fustan georgette groilleach harry tweed fustao georgette crepe gros de Londres Haru fustein Georgian cloth gros de Naples harvard sheeting fustian German serge gros de Rome harvards fustian anapes German wool gros de Suez haryani futro gestreepte of geruite gros de Tours hattan fututam katoenen stof gros d’Eccose silk hatter’s plush fuya ghabani gros drap haustuch gaas gimmoru grosgrain hechtgrau ga-ba-ðin Gingang gualescio hedvábí gabardina gingerline guayanilla hei jiao chou gabardine gingham gudia Helanca gabardyna glacé Marguerite guinea cloth hema-netrapata gabbano glass cloth guinga Henrietta cloth gach glass toweling guingan Henrietta glace gage de Inde glazendoek gule-baqli heremzi gajavadi glen checks gulik holland hernani gajipali glissade gulix herringbone galashiels gloan gunpowder silk hessian galatea gloria gurrah hickory gãm glove silk guzzy hilda gãm vóc goaly gwlan Himalaya carreau gambroon gobanji gyolcs himru gamuza godo habassie hirivastra gangasagara godweb habutai hodden gangetic golf cloth habutaye hol gao Gore-Tex hachijo holanda garbbhasutra gorgoran hailìsi cuni holei garha gossamer hair line stripe holland garlicks gossamer satin hairbines Holland cloth garri cloth gourgourans haircloth Holland shade cloth garza Grain haircord hollmes gates of Paris cloth grain haji Hollywood gauze gatugatu grain de poudre hakata homespun gau chau grana encarnada half silk honan gaunaka granilla halshemd honeycomb gausapa granit de laine Hamburg homespun hopsack gauze granite hammock cloth hopsacking gaza granite cloth handewarpes hörr gazar grassets handkerchief lawn houndstooth check gaze grazzets handkerchief linen hounscot say Gaze grebe cloth hangra huabù 346 Appendix A huádaní jaconette kains kassa huaduan jadara kaishìmí kasturiya huanaco jalaka kakeda kasuri huccatoon jamdani kakimea katana jhuna huckaback jamete kakinia kata-ori hule jamiwar kalakamsuka kataza-kanoko hulu hipa janna wa-nar kalakoa katifés huluhulu Janus cloth kalamkari katoen hum-hum Janus cord kalandari katoenfluweel hummums Japanese crepe kalikone kattan hungback Japanese grass cloth kalmuks Kattūn hwamunsa Japanese piqué kalómala kauseya hwap’o Japanese pongee kaltsoskúti kauseyaka Iceland wool Japanese silk kamakh kausheya ichcatl jarajari kamalaveli kausumbha Ida canvas jardiniere kambala kažuoks ‘ie jaspè Kambrick kelantan kain songket ‘ie mafiafia jaspeado Kamelhaar kelt ‘ie valavala jasper kamkha kendal ikat Java canvas kamkhab kente cloth ikhdari Java stripes kamkhwab kenting ilhó jean kamrtušky ke‘oke‘o maoli illusion jedwab kanekopa ke‘oke‘o pia imperial jerga kanggan ke‘oke‘o wai imperial ottoman jérsei kaniki kermezot imperial sateen jersey kano cloth kersey imperial serge jhamaratali kanseya kerseymere imperial valley cotton jhanbartali kantha kerseynette imperial velvet jhuna kanto khaddar in jhuni kapa khaiki inaka yuzen jiaki-kanoko kapa ‘ino‘ino khajalia inderlins jian kapa lau‘i khaki India chintz jianchóu kappa khanga India linen jiljeleh kapsa kharma India muslin jinneh-u-nar kapuraveli kharwa Indian jirnavastra kapurnur khasata Indian dimity jofu kara-aya khazz Indian head jouy karagumi kheenkaub Indian lawn juàn karamini khemkaub Indian work Jugendstil satin kara-mushi khinkhwab indiennes jukh kara-nishiki khirodaka injogyonsa jungle khassa karaori khuri inkin jusi karayari kihachijo inkle kaasdoek karitone kikoi irengan kabrí karnaysh kilika Irish lawn kaci karpasa kilika lau Irish linen kaciyau pitha karpata kilika nehe Irish poplin kadali-garbha karppura-tilaka kimkhab ispahanis k’aenbosu Kaschmir kimkhwab itagbe kageyapatte kaseyyaka kimmoru Italian cloth kain bentenan kasha kimono flannel ixcaco kain chelum kasha cloth kim-thuyen iyegbe kain engkudu kasiam kinamu jaconas kain mata kasimea kincob jaconet kain simbut kasjmier kingcob Garment Types 347 kinham Lachen leviathan canvas lole lauoho kinihama lacis liàn longcloth kinkhab lady’s cloth Liberty art silks longotte kinkhaib laeloa lièn looking glass silk kinran lafun lienzo loretto kinsha lagos lienzo de la India louisine kinu lah lijnwaad lovadi Kirmees lahalile lilina lowell cloth kirpas lai kee wat chau limbrick lowerings kithaika lainakini limiste lurik kläde laine limousine lurot klœði laine foulard līn lustre kluteen lake lînah lustrene knickerbockers laken linai lustrina Kobe flannel lalatantuja lindiana lustring kobene lamak linen lutestring kobene cloth lamb mena līnen lutherine koffo lamba Līnen Lycra kon-gasuri lamba maitso linen mesh lyons velvet kongdan lamba soratra linene ma sa koprena lambsdown linenette maa’ koprina lambskin líng mábù Korin-nami lamé linge macabre kornaysh lamouxa Lingette macana kosa lampas linho mackinaw cloth kosi lan lini madapolam kotoñs lana linne madras ko-watari-tozan lāna linned madras gingham koza landy linnen madras muslin Krepp láng linnseach madvia krimija lãnh linnseach thrusaidh mahadhana Krinoline lanilla estampada lino mahimudisahi krzno lansdowne lino irlandes mahmudi Kshauna Lapland beaver linon mahyu-salu kshouma lappa cloth linsey makabala ksirodaka lärft linsey-woolsey makalena kuakalikea lasa linteum makalena pu‘u kulia lasoa līnum malak kumach lauhitaka Līnwāt malak abu wardeh kummul laundry duck līon malamala sahi kumpi lawn lipa garrusu malas kuntunkuni leather cloth lisle malausiu kuokvilna leatherette lisse malines kuri-ume leatherine Lissue malir Kurume-gasuri Leda cloth lista malle-molle kusabhia lein listadoes malmal kuttan Leinen llawban mamoodie k’uyu Leinwand lliain manasasa kuzufu lemister llica llica ahuaska manchester kuzununo lemster llin Manchester velvet kwasida adinkera len lockram manchira kyoniingmul leno brocade loden mandalia lã leþer lodix mandiléño la Ciré levantine lœrred manjira label cloth levantine folicé loft manta 348 Appendix A mantling Mexican cloth moscovite naemet mantua Mexicans moscow nagdeh máobù meyui mosi náilon máogé mezeline mosolin nailoni máoliào mezer moss cloth nailron máozhipin miánbù mossy crepe nainsook marabou miánmáoshan mosulrin nainsukh marabout silk miánróng mothadā naka marakatajadara middy twill moticuri tamaru namda marcela mikado moultan muslin nam-king marceline mila mountain moss nankeen marcella Milanese mousceline nankin margine Milanese taffeta mousselin aboukir Nankin nishiki Marguerite silk milas mousseline nansú mariposa milk and water mousseline de laine narmma-haripha marocain millium mousseline de soie nasheq rohoh marocain crepe miroir silk mousseline grenadine nasij marquisette mirror velvet mousseline soie natté marramas misaru Mozambique ndik’a’ marseilles misri muaré ndop marseillies quilting misru mudhahhab nduli marsella mission cloth muduveya javali neigeuse marška mission net muga neþla mashru mistake mukhmal nerinuku mashru sha’ri mistral muletón de lana neteldoek Masulipatam chintz mobondam mull netra mat mii mockado mulmul khās nettlecloth mahtase modacrylic mulmull ní matelasé mogadore mumavadi nicho-kinran matelassé mohair mungo nigitae māteria moiré musaftaj niigashi materija moiré françiase musayyar nilapatora matting oxford moiré velours Muscovite nilavata mau‘u-la‘ili Moiréseide Muscovite velvet nillae mawa’ moirette muselina ni-lông mayau moleskin muselina de la india niluhura mbal moletón mushajjar nirmokinam mbala moletón reversible mushru niróng mbala badinga molleton muslin nishijin mecca mollitan muslin de laine nishiki mecklenburgh molochine muslinet nízi medley momie cloth mussolen nkrawou medvilnė momie crepe mussolina nobleza megha-udumbara monache mussolo nometas meghavarna mon-chirimen must deviles Norwich crepe meisen monkey skin mustard villars Norwich paramatta melton monsha mustardevelin nouveautés merino montagnac mustardevillers novato merinos Montpensier cloth mutarraz bil-dhahab nsaduaso merinos ecossais mooree myllion nula merveilleux moorie myongju numbda mescolato moreen mysore numda messaline morga nabob nummud metal cloth moruori naboika numna metallic gauze mosaic gauze nacré velvet numud Garment Types 349 nunda ottoman rep pantadoe percale taffeta nuno ottoman rib pahnurah percaline nun’s cloth ottoman silk paon velvet perches nun’s veiling ottoman velvet pàopàosha perkal nurse’s cloth otu papeline peropus nurse’s gingham outing flannel papoon perpetuana nwumu Oxford chambray parachute fabric perpets nylon Oxford cloth paragon perse oatmeal cloth Oxford gray paramatta Persian oganadi Oxford shirting paravalia persian cord oilcloth ozenbridge parchmentier Persian lawn oiled silk oznaburg pardillo persienne ‘okanaki packing white parevau pata Peruvian cotton okara padamsuka Parisian satin pesas oko padisoy Paris-Pekin pestryad okura-nishiki paduasoy parniyan petersham okuru padura pashm Petersham cloth okyangmok padusoy pashmina petit velours olann paisley pataccara petite pois oldham pajama check pataniya sacopa pettinato olino pakama pata-pallavah phaa ollaodach paklinnen patna Philip and Cheney ollyet palandrano patola Philip and China omeshi pale pakaukau ‘aila patolaka philiselie ondine Palmyra broché patolla phosphorescent ondule palmyrene patolo phulam ongebleekte Chinese zijde palmyrienne patrona phulkari oni didi Pamico patrorna phutadu oni lilo pampilion pattadukula pidan oniko pamuk pattahari pieghettato onuga pamutos vászon pattala piel de angel opala pana pattamsuka piel de cisne orbace pana con cervaduras muy pattamsuya piel de foca orgagis finas patti piel de seda organdi panama canvas pattu piel de tiburón Organdin panama cloth pearl of beauty Pikee organdy panba pèarluinn pīlo organza pancauna peau d’ange pilot cloth oriental crepe pancavarnapadi peau de béte pilus tinctus oriental satin pandva peau de chevrette pima cotton orleans panjam peau de cygne pimpalia ormesine panne peau de daim pin check ormuzine panne satin peau de soie piña cloth osbro panne velvet peau se suede pinasco osnabrug panni diasperati peigné pintado osnaburg panni imperiales pekin pintadoe osnaburgo panno pekin crepe pinthadoe ossenbrigs panno e pannino pekin point pînza otgam pannus pekin satin pînzah otkam pannus sine grano peluche a poils piqué otomana paño penelope canvas piquet otomana imperial paño berbi peniascoe pîslah ottoman paño de brunete pentadoe pistai ottoman cord paño de la tierra pepper and salt płat ottoman plush paño tuntido percale platilla 350 Appendix A platno purnellow rayon taffeta russells plátno puspapatta rayonne russet plissé Pussy Willow rayure travers Russian cord plissiert pust red cross gingham Russian crash plodan qababand regatta faille francais Russian crepe płotno qarawi regatta shirting Russian sergette ploughman’s gauze qasabiyeh regence Russian velvet pluette qatifah-i-purbi regina ryssedamast pluie d’argent qaz reion ryssekläde pluie d’or qi renforcée Ryūkū-gasuri plumbet qiana rep sa plume velvet qibù rep bluet sa din plunket quande restagno d’oro saba plush quintin rhadames sabada poetsdoek qutn Rhea sablé pofi qutni rhodophane saenggosa poil de saxe qutun ribbed crepón sagathie poile de chevre ra ribfluweel sagathy point d’espagne radhanagri rigona sagiya guakari Poiret twill radium ring cloth sagmatogene poldavis radnor rinzu saia polished cotton radzimir ripple cloth Saint Etienne velvet polo cloth raiglin Ripplesheen Saint Omer polotno raing Ripplette saki pompadour chiné rajapatta riso sopra riso salara pompadour duchesse raju ro salari pompadour shantung raktambara roanes salembaree pongee ráli roanne salempoory poodle cloth Ramona cloth Rohseide salempora popatiya rang ròin salempore popelina rankava ròin-aodach salempury popeline raploch white roinne-bhaidhe salendang popes ministers ras de Sicile romagnuolo salisbury poplin ras du more romaine salla poplin lactee rash romaine crepe sallo poplin lama rasha rong salloo poplinette rasimal róngbù salura porraye raso rosa sambhal postav raso cinese rosadimoi samit pottala raso de la China rosalba samite pou-de-soie raso de zapatillos Roshanara Samt poult de soir raso imperial rosille de soie samyt poult-de-soie raso liberty Roubaix velvet sana ppipu ppipu ahuaska raso muy brillante roucha sang chau Prince of Wales check raso piel de angel roxano sangati prince’s stuff raso piel de cisne royale sangi prunell raso pile de seda rozah sania prunella raso por trama ruanduàn sani-gani psila raso por urdimbre ruga sanjharavau pulakabandha ratine ruhbani santipur cloth pullicat ratteen rum-swizzle sanyan p’ulrannel ray russaline saput punjam raye de comtesse russell sar purdah raynes russell cord saranala puriya rayon russell satin sarasa Garment Types 351 sarashi savadi copacchudahu sha silk rash sarashi nuno saxony shabnam šilkai sarata shirting say shag silkaline sarcenet saya shaker flannel silke sarciatus sayal shalloon silki sarga sayiaki shambar silverets sarja scamato shantung sindu sarsenet schappe silk sharbati sīoda sarzil Schotse muts shash siolac sa-tanh sciameto shawl wool sirat satarra cloth Scotch cambric sheep’s gray sirge debaragon sateen scotch gingham sheep’s russet sirghe sateen berber Scotia silk shema sīric sateen paré Sea Island cotton shenu sirinbaf satén sealskin cloth shepherd’s check siring satijn seda shepherd’s cloth sirkek Satin seda chape shepherd’s plaid siróng satin seda cruda shetland sirsaka satin antoinette seda de corbatas shima sisal satin berber seda silvestre shioze sīta satin cashmere sedalina shireenbaf sitapuri satin checks seersucker shirinbaf sits satin chinois seghosen shirvani sizhipin satin crepe segu shoddy skelat satin damask sehan shoe velvet škidrauts satin de chine Seide shokko-nishiki skirduk satin de laine seigo shrimbawi sklat satin de Lyon seiric shubnam škrlet satin de Mai seiz shuchin skyteen satin duchesse selisie lawn shusu sleasy holland satin faconne selk siamoise sleaved silk satin fontange selvage siang-malam slesia lawn satin foulard sempringham siapo slicker fabric satin jean sen sichóu slipper satin satin liberty Sendai Hira silk sicilian snail satin lisse sendal sicilienne snow cloth satin merino sensuji sīda snowflake satin merv seolac sidan soie satin merveilleux Seraceta Sīde soie de Padoue satin orientale seraser siden soie demantine satin rouleaux serenk siglat soieries à double face satin sultan serge siglatoen soieries bizarres satin surah serge de soy siglaton soiesette satin turc serge royale sihrang som satin velouté sergedesoy siklat sommiere satin Victoria sergedusoy silahati sook chau satiné playé sergette silecho soosey satiné velouté sergia silesia soosie satinesco sēricum silika soudagir satinet serih silistrienne soyeaux linsey satineta serribaf siliva spandex satinette serst silk spiral witney satingle Holland seta silk Damascene spitalfields satyna setim silk gauze sponge cloth sauvarnapatta setimeta silk linen Spun-lo 352 Appendix A sribapha tabarete tecidos tissue stafford cloth tabbinet teia tissue d’Alma stagbe tabby tejano tissue gingham stamel tabie-nishiki tejido tissue taffeta stametto tabijn tejido arrugado tjap stamfortis tabine tejido calado tjindai stamin tabinet tejido con pelo largo tkan’ stammel tafailah tejido de punto elástico tkanina stamped velvet tafetá tejido de punto liso tkanina dziana stamyn sengill tafetán tejido esponjoso to hoá-hoc stavaraka taffeta tejido liso tobin stavrak taffeta coutil tela tobine stijf linnen taffeta crape tela caucho tocuyo stockinette taffeta d’Annecy tela cerata toile stof taffeta de Suez tela de algodón mercer- toile à gros poil stofah taffeta lustré izado toile cirée Strasbourg cloth taffetán tela de aspecto granulado toile d’Alsace striop taffetane tela de Jouy toile de jouy strouding taffetas tela de lino toile de lin stuth taffetine tela grossolana toile de soie sublom Taft tela para carpa toile de Valeuce subnom tafta tela Tagliata toile d’esprit sucisona tafuchóu tennis cloth toile grossiére suclat tafzijde tennis flannel toile Nankin Sudanette taifeid terciopelo toile peinte suddhaota tajehbaf terciopelo acordonado toilinet suède takan terciopelo aplastado toilinette suede cloth tamative terciopelo chifón toilonette sukkosa Tamba cloth terciopelo con dibujo topola sukno tamein multicolor tow sultane tamise terciopelo de Utrect tow cloth suoyi tammy terciopelo en relieve treillis superfine tan terciopelo labrado tricô supha-kamkha tanasukha tergal tricolette surah tanjeeb terliz tricolina surf satin tanjib terrendam tricot surowa bawelna tanzeb terry cloth tricot de Berlin susae tapa tewke tricota susi tapa cloth textīle tricotine sussapine tarlatan textum Trikot suthila tarletan the triple voile suvarnapadi tarpya Thibet cloth tripoline svetacinamsuka tartan thicksets trip-sammet svila tartan velvet thunder and lightning trúc-bâu swadeshi tartanella tì tsumugi Swami tartarian tian’éróng tsuzure-nishiki swanskin tartarin tiáoróng tūba swarry-doo tartaryn ticklenburg tubayt Swatow grass cloth tassar tiffany tubsi Swiss cambric tatbandpuri tilavasa Tuch swiss muslin tate-nishiki tin chiang chiang chau tuftataffeta šyras tattersall tirchha tufted dimity sztruks tavestock tiretaine tuillinn szurtuk tawar tissu tuke tabaret tayu-kanoko tissu satiné tul Garment Types 353 tulapansi vài to vilna wulla tule vài trorn vilnos wulle tulis vài vóc vilt Yamato nishiki tulle vajramsuka Vilz yeddo crepe tuly vakala virgin wool Yokohama crepe Tuoch valencia virly yoko-nishiki Tuoh valentia viyella yukata turco poplinnes vân Vlahs yusha turin velvet vangala vlas yusoku orimono turkey red veletine vlno Yuzen birodo Turkish brilliantine velludillo voile de laine zakkengoed turudam velludo vojlok zakkenlinnen tussah vellum volante zambellotto tusseh velluto vuna zanella tussore velo Wachstuch zanella cloth tussore de Longchamps velour wadmal zarzahan tuyn velour de coton wadmel zelluuami túyt-xo velours walutu zendado tweed velours de coton croisé warp zendale tylesent velours de laine wasdoek zenne typewriter cloth velours de Venise wash silk zenne alffowa ubong mata velours frappé watchet zephyr uchidashi-knaoko velours Grégoire wedding ring velvet zephyr armure udbandha velours Impératrice weft zephyr cloth ukara veloutine wełna zephyr gingham ukaw velure whipcord zerbaft ‘ula palani velveret white scarlet zhan uld velvet wikolia zhòu ull velvet imperatrice wildbore zhòubù umbrella cloth velveteen wincey zhùmá umbrella gingham venetian winceyette zibeline umbrella silk Venetian cloth witte zīds umritzur Venetian crape cloth wol zijde uncut velvet venise Wolla zijden japon of toga ungen-nishiki ventus textilis Wolle zimbelline union vesses wolle Zulu cloth unmunsa vettam wollen goederen zuòcán urasala vichy wollen mousseline zuòsichóu utrecht velvet vicitra wollen stof zwarte vað Victoria crepe wool vadmal Victoria lawn wool batiste vahitha Victoria silk wool bengaline vahitika victorieuse wool chiffon vài vicuna wool crepe vài bò vigogna wool plain vài bông vigogne woolenet vai hoa Vigogne worsted vài màn vihita kappasa wull

FEATHERS aigrette autruche coque culgee amazon plume banditti coquearde demiplume amazones canache coquillicot feathers eiderdown ‘at’a’ coq cross aigrette ekawa 354 Appendix A esprits hulu piorko plume d’autruche Feder jiqa piuma plume de coq femina marabou piuma di struzzo plume de faisan flues marabout feathers pleureuses plumes fantaisies fulu ostaigrette pluma de avestruz weepers gossamer feathers panache pluma de gallo zebra feathers goura feather panache blanc plumach gourah feather panache de coque plumage grebe penache plume

FUR AND LEATHER

Affenpeltz besshe cazapo dankalie agneau Biber chamois diaopí agneau du Tibet bice charol diphera agneau karakul Bisamratte chele doeskin agnelin bise cheveril dogskin agnellino de Persia bisshe chèvre de Chine Eichhörnchen agnello black bear chèvre de Mongolie ermellini aincis blaireau chevreau ermellino ajina blană chevrette ermine ajina yajnopavita blaunchmer Chinaziege esquilo Alaska sable blaundemer chinchilla esquirole alligator blaundever chisamus Feh almizclera blauner comadreja Fettschwanzschaf alpaca blue fox conejo ffwr American badger boicionn coney fionnadh American broadtail bolgar coracinus color flea-fur Angora goat borgal cordero Florentine leather Angora rabbit breitschwantz cordero de Rusia foca antelope Breitschwantz cordero del Tibet fourrure aquerne broadtail lamb cordero mongoliano foynes arctic hare buckskin cordobán Fuchs ardilla budge cordoban leather fuine Armenian rat bulgar cordouan fycheux arminho bulger corium galyac armiño bulghar cristygrey galyak astracán bullgarry croppes gamsbart astrakan burunduki cross fox gamuza Astrakan cabra de China cuero gaopí avika cabretta leather cuero de ante gatos de lomos badana cabrito cuero de cerdo genet badger caddice cuero de cocodrilo ghiottone baldrés caddis leather cuero de marroqui glacé kid Bär calaber cuero napa glazed kid baronduki calfskin cuir glotón basen canepin cuoio glouton basil capeskin curóugé godalming baum marten capra china da boc-can gold and silver kid bauson skin caracul lamb da láng grand vair bazan caracule da linh gris béabhar carolina beaver da lon grise beaver castor Dachs gros vair Belliz castorino Danakillisches Böcklein guanaco Bessarabian lamb castoro dankalia capretto della Guanako Garment Types 355 guanaquito lontra Oposum scheibenbart hermelijn loup orbace scimmia Hermelin loutre orso seal hermine Luchs osito lavador Seehund hertevel lupo oso shagreen hiladillo lynx patent kid silver fox hua yu mapache patent leather singe huarizo Marder peallaid skóra ‘ili marmot peau d’agneau skunk ‘ili hinuhinu marmota pele de cordeiro skūra ‘ili pipi marmotta pelego sobol ‘ilio-hulu-papale marmotte pelica Spanish leather jack leather marta pelliccia stone marten Jap marten marta cebellina Pelliz stranlyng Jap mink marta comú pelliza suède Japanese mink marten pelo de castor suede kid juchten martora pelo de liebere suela kailiniai martre pelo di castora swan’s down kailis martre zibeline pelo di lepre tasso kalgan mat kid pels tejón kangaroo leather mech peñas veras Tibetisches Lamm Kanin mentýk persian broadtail uainicionn kaunakes miniceag Persian lamb urna kawa minicionn Persianer vair kid leather minicionn-laoigh petit-gris vajo kolinsky miniver phoque vavr koza mink piel de becerro velleres fulvi kozesina mocha piele velleres nigri krimmer mofeta pigskin vellum läder mongolia pointed fox villi lambskin mono polayn vison Lamm murmel pople visón lan yu Murmeltier pulo visone leder muskrat qigé volpe leðr musquash rabbit volpe o renard leopard napa leather raccoon Waschbär Leopard nawame-irokawa ratmusqué white fox lerion neas-nam-fuar-thìrean raton laveur yuhada-kawa lethar neat’s leather red fox zeemleer lether Nerz renard zibelina lettice nutria róngmiàngé zibeline lince oiled leather roskyn zibellino lledr olann sable zobel lobe ooze calf sabeldier Zobel lœder opossum schapevel zorro

GOWNS AND TUNICS

A line aksu ankanjo attigra aba alb antaravasaka attila abba almilla áo bông attush achkan anacu áo da aymilla agbada andalusian casaque áo lanh lót vài bông badan agun-pat sari angarkha aoidai bai na yi akome angarkhi apron tunic ballerina dress 356 Appendix A baluchar chun sam fourreau dress handkerchief tunic bata corta chungch’imak fourreau tunic haol bata de casa cira French polonaise haori bata de mañana circassienne gown frou-frou dress hashimi Bavarian dress-style coat-dress Gabrielle dress herigaute Bavarian pelisse robe cocktail dress galabijeh Himmutsatha Beatrice cola galabiyeh bi wist H-line bedla colobium galerilla hofkledij bei zi Colson gamurra holoku beramen Constance ganache holomu biedermeier convertible jumper gandoora homongi bil cool gown gandoura houppelande binary chiton corset dress gandurah houppelande a mi-jambe bla lome corset frock gáppte houppelande courte bliand costume à la Constitution garchola house dress bliant cote gare hugue bliaunt cotehardie garnache hui yi bliaus cotelettes gbariye ichcahuipilli blouse polonaise cotellae German gown indusium brial coton gharacholoo interala broderie anglaise cotta gharcholu Ionic chiton broigne cotte gilaharā Irish polonaise bròn cuirass tunic gilbah Isabeau style dress Brunswick curricle dress girki Italian polonaise bui-bui cushma gite japon caftan cyrtel glandkin ji fu cai-ao dadiyā gonelle jinashi calasiris dagba gulai gonellone jinashi-nuihaku calypso chemise dàguà gonne jubba cancan dress dalephuc goshodoki jubbah caraco dalmatic gown juive caraco à coqueluchon dalmatica gown à la francaise juppo caraco à la francaise dalmatikon gown à la levantine kaeshi caraco à la polonaise demi-gown gown à la polonaise kaftan caraco gown devantiere gown à la sultane kaftani cazavacka diploidion gown à la turque kala-pat sari ccahua djubba gown à l’anglaise kanakagi ccahuas dogaline gown à l’insurgente kanca-pat sari cettelle Dolly Varden dress gown and coat kancuka chang fu Dolly Varden polonaise granatza kappa dachi chang shan doni grande robe à corps kasturia chángpáo doric chiton ouvert kaun chángshan duster grande robe à la francaise kawakī chao pao earthquake dress greatcoat dress khalaga chapkan ebu Grecian robe khurkeh charuot eillets panaches gui yi kimono chayazome English gown gùn na h-eaglaise ki-mô-nô chemise à la greque exomia gùn odhar kimono dress chemise à la Reine exomide gunachan kin koot chemise à l’anglaise false gown habit de demi-gala kinumo chemise dress Fatima robe habit degage kirtle chemise gown fliegende Nachtrok habit d’escalier kitel cheongsam flocket habit-redingote kittel Cherbourg fly-suit haincelin koller chiton Fortuny tea gown handkerchief dress kolob Garment Types 357 kolobus nūr-ī-bādlā robe à plis gironnés sheath dress kopin nursing dress robe anglaise shiromuku koshimaki ‘ofu robe de chambre shiu tian yi koshipiri okolepu‘u robe de cérémonie à la shudiya kosode pais-a-gwn bach française silai koynek pajama robe de chez sire kras pajani robe de commune at an- siree kubba pallustache cienne guise slammerkin kudtā pamsukula robe de noce sorquenie kuftan pannier dress robe de style soucane kyrtill páo robe déguisée souquenilles lampshade dress páozi robe d’interieur soutane Laveuse costume patori robe drapeé spagnolet Leine pat-sari robe du soir stanamsuka léine-bhàn peignoir robe en calecons sticking-plaster dress lendener pelisse-robe robe gironnée stola levite peplos chiton robe longue subrichion levite gown Perdita chemise robe parée suckenie liányiqún Persian drape tunic robe princesse suculla ccahua little black dress petite robe unie robe torque śukla dhardīa lobas compridas pharos robe volante sukmán long pao phutā lugā robes à quille sukni Lonjumeau dress Piedmont gown robes de fantaisie suknia losse japon pinafore costume robes en calecon suliya lucco pirahan-e zananeh rôbo sultane dress lugadoo Platoff costume rocket sunthiā mameluke robe plisîrani roguelo dress surubuli mandā paradiyā polonaise rok susomoyo mang ao polonaise àdeux fins ropa bastarda synthesis Manon robe poloneze ropa de estado tablier tunic manteau polu-kaftan ropa larga talaris tunic mantelletta pompadour polonaise ropa rozagnte tanzen mantua prapadina Rose tappert matinée princesa round dress teagown mayūrakanthiā princess dress round gown thaub Medici dress princess polonaise sace thawb meghadambara princess robe sack dress thob al-khidmah melas princesse sack gown thob al-tal’ah morning gown principessa sack-back thob basitah mother hubbard Prinzesskleid saekduresu thob mukhmal azraq mshono wa Elizabethi puletasi samghati tonaca mshono wa Rosi purple gown sanitary ball dress Trafalgar dress muslin deaths qiapàn sapara traje de novia mu’u mu’u Raphael dress sari trapeze Napoleon costume raso savrikin trappers ncak robe à la circassienne saya trapphant negligee de la volupte robe à la française schöpen trollopee nei tao robe à la Joconde scyrte tsubo-ori nightgown robe à la levantine Second Empire costume tunece nikautang robe à la polonaise selari tunic nīlāmbarī robe à la prêtesse serapis tunic à la juive nilaniradanicola robe à la Reine seray tunic à la mameluck nimā robe à la Turque sgùird tunic à la Romaine nugi-sage robe à l’américaine shan ku tunic dress nuihaku robe à l’anglais shawal tunica 358 Appendix A túnica tunique à la Juive vestido wrapping front dress tunica alba turesu vestido de noche wrapping gown tunica augusticlavia turkey gown vestito da sera wundi tunica interior Turkish polonaise Victoria Wurtenburg frock tunica intima tutu mu’u vlieger x-ray dress tunica laticlavia uchikake volanten yar chiki tunica manicata unku wai tao York wrapper tunica palmata unterrock waterfall back yukata tunica taleris urbasī Watteau polonaise Zerlina dress tunicle urku Watteau robe tuniek uttarasanga waya tunika vandyke dress wentke tunique Veronese dress woko

HAIRSTYLES AND WIGS

à la Maintenon búi tó cleachdag crop à la plaquette búi tóc clearc cruches à la Titus bull’s head fringe clubwig cuach-chiabh à la Victime butterfly bun clytie knot cuach-fhalt Academician cabeleira coiffure à la Ceres culan accroche-coeur cabeleira postiça coiffure à la Chinoise curls à la Greque Adonis wig cache-folies coiffure à la conseillere cutlets agemaki cadanette coiffure à la Dauphine dancing phoenix bun aile de pigeon cadenette coiffure à la enfant dhanush ‘aki cadogan coiffure à la Eurydice dildo alaka cais-chiabh coiffure à la Flore Director amlag caisean-feusaig coiffure à la herisson djnne-djnne Apollo knot caisreag coiffure à la Junon djorro-marabu as camag coiffure à la moutonne dosan-banntraich asbeh ruwaysiyeh camalag coiffure à la Nino Droop Snoot au globe fixe campaign wig coiffure à la Pomone dual Author capillamentum coiffure à la qu’ es aco dundreary whiskers ‘ava çargat coiffure à la Reine dundrearys ‘avaaluga cas-urladh coiffure à la zazzera durol bedyeli badger whiskers catagan coiffure à l’Agnes Sorel durol bedyeli puDaaDo bag wig catagan head-dress coiffure à l’anglomane durol cakaol bakkebaarden cathedral beard coiffure à l’indisposition durol chuddito barba catogan coiffure au chien couchant durol pila dorungol beau-catcher cauliflower wig coiffure Egyptienne durol tyeli beehive coiffure cavanhaque coiffure en bouffons durol yesool berger caxon coiffure en cadenettes Duvillier wig bhrameraka chain buckle coiffure en chien couchant Editor bím chancellor coiffure en moilin à vent ekaveni binette chignon coiffure en parterre galant en beret bob-wig chignon flottant coiffure en raquette en colimaçon bodkin chinó coiffure Maintenon en dos d’ane bodkin-beard choux confidents faces Borghesé chucu Continental falbala bras-ghruag chuda costeleta fantail wig breug-chiabh churna-kuntala coups de vent favoris brodé ciabhag courrone Ristori favorite Brutus cut ciabh-chasta crape favourite Brutus head wig clann creve-coeur feather-top wig buckled wig cleachd croimeal Flying Saucer Garment Types 359 foloara kes opasa scratch wig fontanges kesapasa orbis serpentaux forked beard khopa oreilles de chien sheitel fortop knevel paardestaart shell fouriaux kogai page boy bob ship-tire frenello kolbe parrucca sikhandaka frisette korte pruik passagers simada frizette k’ossuyom passe-filon simpa frizz wig krul patondon snake frouze krulletje peluca snor fuafuati kumbi penteado sokuhatu full bottomed wig k’unmori peoth spencer wig furbelow kurira perriwigg spit curl gaforinha la coiffure Diane perrukes à bourse star-studded sky glib lauoho perruque quarrée sualef goatee lauoho ku‘i peruça swallow-tail bangs gold ingot bun Lily Langtry coiffure perwyke takashimada gurnakuntala llautu physical wig talafa hair à la Recamier long Duvallier picaporte tanbal hair à la Romaine loth piccadilly fringe tenzin-mage hamaku‘u mae-gami piccadilly weepers tête de mouton hammercut beard mage pigeon-winged toupee tignon heart-breaker major wig pigtail wig tochtlatten hectorean maku‘a pijpekrullen top hedgehog hairdo marcel wave pique devant toupee Horus lock marcelling po‘o ke‘oke‘o toupet hurluburlu marquisetto beard po‘o kuakea tour de cheveux hurlupe marteaux porcupine headdress transformation imperial marumage postiche tyasen-gami Irene Castle bob mechones poufs au sentiment tye ityogaesi mechuelas pruik ula jasey mimi-kakusi psyche knot ulach jata-bhara mitu-ori pudding-basin cut ulchadh jata-mukuta mituwa pupu lauoho ‘umi‘i lauoho jiu momo-ware pyonbal ‘umi‘umi kabal Montague curls queue vallancy kabari bandha musk melon bun Ramillies wig vergette à la chinoise kaisika muttonchops râu cam wasy kamozi na krilo râu dê weeping willow bangs kampū Newgate fringe râu mép Welch wig kaparda night-cap wig râu som weleweka kapitsáli nihyakusan-koti ringetje zarost kapsel obalenka ròibeag zazzara kata-hazusi off-the-horse bun sakayaki Zopfzeit katsura ‘oki pahu sanbenito kemba Olympic scratch bob

HATS AND HEADDRESSES

à la Farare agal Albert pot ammana à la Marie Stuart aision alceste ampyz ‘a‘ahu a po’o Alampasand Alesjo anadem adagan alan dangi almuzi androsame afia Albanian hat alpine hat androsman 360 Appendix A angelus cap bascinet boineid bhall-ach cache-peigne anglesea basco boineid biorach caciula Angouleme bonnet bashlik boineid chath-dath caeppe Angouleme hat bashlyk bolero toque cagoule angrakhâs basinet Bolivar hat cahouk anhaho basque beret bollinger caille Anne Boleyn mob bath-throid bombetta cailmhion ‘aqal batwat Bonaparte helmet caipīn ‘aqal mqassab bavolet boné cais-chiabh Aragonese bonnet bayō bongrace caissia arak-chin bēabhar bonnet à barbes caita ‘araqiyeh beanie bonnet à flamme cake hat Armenian toque beatilla bonnet à la crete de coq calash ascanta beaver bonnet à la laitiere calata atef bebedi bonnet à la moresque cale attiffet bee-gum hat bonnet à la Richard calêche avagunthana beefeater bonnet à la victoire Caledonian cap babet bonnet beehive bonnet bonnet assassin callaid babet cap beguin bonnet aux trois ordres calotte babushka bellboy hat reunis calpac baby cap bend bonnet beehive calyptra baby Stuart cap benda bonnet cabriolet camargo hat bag bonnet bendigo bonnet de police camauro bag cap beret bonnet demi-negligee cameleurion baigneuse beret basque bonnet negligee campaign hat bairēad bergere hat bonnet pamela canotier bakhramā berretino bonnet rond cantab hat bakwala berretto bonnet sylphide cap à la Charlotte Corday balaclava berretto alla marinara bonneto cap of maintenance balloon hat bersagliere boonie hat capacete de Indias balmoral cap Bethlehem headdress börk capadüsli balzo bewdley cap borla capeline bambino hat béza borsalino caperuza bandeau beehive crown Bhayyā-cap bosses capilla hat bian botchi capirote bandelet bibi bonnet boudoir cap capka bandelette bibi capote bourbon hat capot bandore bicorne bourdalou capota bandore peak bigean bourrelet capote Bangalore cap biggin bréid capot-ribot bao tou biggon bréid geal capouch baori biggonet breton cappa baranice biliment brewer’s cap cappe barbe billicock brides cappelina barbette binde brium cappello barbichet binnogue brud cappello a cencio barbúli biorraid Buchanan cappello a cilindro barbute biretta bullycock cappello a lobbia baret birritta bumper cappello a tagliere Barett blangkon busby cappello a tesa larga barraighin bluebonnet bush hat cappello da uomo barret boater butterfly cap cappello di paglia barrete boina bycocket cappello floscio barretino boina vasca bycoket cappucio barrette boineid cabriolet capriole Garment Types 361 capuce chapeau cimarosa coke capuch chapeau à borne cinta colbac capucha chapeau à la Basile cipcic colbacco capuche chapeau à la Ceres circassian hat colback capuchinho chapeau à la Charlotte circumfolding hat combed helmet capuchon chapeau à la Cherubin clac conch capulet chapeau à la Colonne Clarissa Harlowe bonnet conciu caputium chapeau à la Devonshire cloche confidents carapuça chapeau à la Grenade cloche de feutre conque caravan chapeau à la turque cloche de fieltro conversation bonnet çârma chapeau à l’egyptienne cloche di feltro conversation hat carmeillette chapeau à l’italienne clock-mutch coolie hat carmeñola chapeau à plumes close cap copitank caroline hat chapeau au bateau ren- coalman’s hat copotain carpote versé coalscuttle bonnet coquard cartola chapeau-bras Coburg bonnet coqueluche cartwheel chapeau claque Coburg cap cordey cap casco chapeau de Cardinal cockle hat cordyback hat caseac chapeau de paille coeffes corner cap casque chapeau d’homme coffer headdress cornet casque à la Tarleton chapeau jockei cofia cornet hat casque colonial chapeau melon cofia de tranzado cornette casquette chapeau mou coif cornette à la Diane cassis chapeau souple coif cooil corran corno castle hat chaperone coiffe cornu castor chapéu cardinalício coiffure à la Ceres coroa catagan net chapiron coiffure à la Chinoise coron cater-cap chaplet coiffure à la corseillere coron òir catiole chapska coiffure à la Dauphine corona cát-két charlotte coiffure à la enfant corona etrusca caubeen Charlotte Corday bonnet coiffure à la Eurydice corona muralis caudebec hat chaugoshia coiffure à la Flore corona navalis caul chechia coiffure à la herisson corona radiata causia chechias coiffure à la Junon coronal cawdebink child’s pudding coiffure à la moutonne coronet ceanna-bhrat chimney pot hat coiffure à la Ninon cossack cap ceann-aodach chin stays coiffure à la Pomone cossack hat ceann-bhàrr chip hat coiffure à la Reine cottage bonnet ceann-bhàrr eas-buig chobawi coiffure à la zazzera couvre-chef ceann-éideadh choi-ngon coiffure à l’Agnes Sorel cowl ceapsâ chokturi coiffure à l’anglomane coxcomb ceimhleag chol coiffure à l’indisposition cramignole ceimh-mhileach chola derby coiffure auchien couchant crants ceimh-phion ch’olmo coiffure Egyptienne cravate cepec chongjagwan coiffure en bouffons crespine cepice chou hat coiffure en cadanettes crispine cepure chouquette coiffure en chien couchant crispinette cerevis chucu coiffure en moulin à vent croisgileid cervelliera chudamani coiffure en parterre gab- cross-cloth ceryphalos chullo ant cruinneacan chaffers ch’ullu coiffure en raquette crùn chakvidar chullu coiffure Eugenie crùn-easbuig chambergo chungjolmo coiffure Louis Treize csepesz chang guan chungsanmo coiffure Mantenon cucullus chao guan cillāwālī coiffure Zouave cudamani 362 Appendix A cūdō dragoonka firmament gorra escocesa cudon drawn bonnet Fitzherbert hat gorro cuffia Dreispitz flammeum gorro de dormir cuffie dreumelthoelje flandan gorro de marinero cuircinn duchowny flipe gorro de pieles Cumberland hat dulándle floddermuts goshpech cunua dulbén Florentine hat gothic cap curch dullemoese Florentinerhut Graham turban curchef Dutch bonnet flügelmütze granny bonnet curling-cloud crown Dutch cap flushing hat grenadier cap currac flycap grenadierka curracag ebo foileid grun cushion headdress eboshi foloara gu gu guan cusma ebosi fools hood gua pi mao cuth-bhàrr écossaise hat forage cap guanmiãn cuth-bharran elastic hat fore-and-aft cap gugel czapka elmo di giostra foundling bonnet gus-to-weh czapska empire cap fouraschka gyöngyös bokréta czepek Empress Eugenie hat French hood hachimaki czepesz en ravanche friso haet czólka English cottage bonnet frontiere haiduk dan kura English hood fu tou hair-lace dastar eobhrat furashka half handkerchief dastar boongga escoffion gable headdress half-beaver dastmal Eton cap gahper halo dauni Eugenie hat Gainsborough bonnet halssieraad Davy Crockett cap fa guan Gainsborough hat harbeh dealg-fhuilt fachalina galatea harsa demi-castor fachalina de cabeza Galatea comb hastrigánky demicaul facóli Galatea hat hat à la reine demi-turban failtean galero hata Denmark cock faldetta galerum hatt deshret fall galerus hatta dessous falt-dhealg Garibaldi hat hattah Dettingen cock faluchos garrison cap haube Devonshire hat fanchon gartan haut de forme diadem bonnet fanchon cap gebreide muts havelock diadem comb fantail hat geknauften kogeln headrail diadem fanchon bonnet farrukhshāhi Geneva hat heafod-clap Diana Vernon bonnet fascinator ghatra heafod-gewaede Diana Vernon hat fatas ghoutra Helen cap dinner cap fatumar saki ghudfeh helmet cap Directoire bonnet faufautu ghughi helmet hat Directoire hat feax-clap ghutra hemispherical hat disissik feax-net gibus hengjehuva doll hat fedora gigolo Henley boater Dolly Varden bonnet feluca gig-top hennin Dolly Varden cap féngmào gipsy bonnet Herrenhut Dolly Varden hat festoul gipsy hat het dopairi feusag-bheòil Glengarry hire dorelet fez gluga hitai-ebosi dormeuse field cap gob cap hive dormouse field service cap gondolier net hod d’Orsay roll filead gorra hodnhue doulì Filzglocke gorra deportiva hodnhuva Garment Types 363 hoed Judenhut kepi kulahā hœtt juk’ullu keppelche kulah-e kordi hoge hoed Juliet cap kepresh kulahī hoge zijden kaap kepuré kulah-i pahlavi homburg kabuto-sita kesapasa kule hoofdband ka‘ei papale kesg’han kullah hoofdtooi kaffiyeh keshghan kunba hottr kafiyyeh kettle hat kundala houve kaga-boshi kettyl hat kupasi hovdatyet kahi ‘omou kevenhuller kupiah howve kaitsa khamar kupkeh hūba kakofnitch khamout kusulaka hue kalabi khan ðôi ðàu kutusoff hat hufá kalabousenn khan ngang kwef hufa kalansuwa khan tang kyrbasia hufe kalauna khimara la huif kalaunu khirkidar labarikada huke kalaunu bihopa khirki-dar-pagri labong hukkō kalimáfkia khirqa lad hul kall kidaris Lady Diana hat hula saki kalotje kilmarnock bonnet laffayef hulle kalpac kim-khôi laffeh Huntley bonnet kalpak kirita Lamballe bonnet Huot kalpáki kirita-mukuta Langtry bonnet hupé kalpush kiss-me-quick Langtry hood hure kalyptra kissing-strings lapa huve kamelaukion kite-high dandy Lapland bonnet huvet kammuri kiver lappenmutze hvivklaede kamrukhi klaft laseh Hyde Park bonnet kantopa klapove hitl láurea hydrotobolic hat kap Klapphut Lavinia hat igaal kapa klaw-i jnan le crapaud ihram kapelusz klaw-i pyawan lei kolona ikar-hay Kapp klobouk lettice bonnet ikori kappa klobuk lettice cap indlugula kappel knipmuts leung mo infula kapperoellike kogel lì iricinium kappie kokoshnik liang mao ‘isāba kapsel kola libbadeh ishkay fachalina karabousenn kolah lihaf Ivanhoe cap karaori kolitsa limào jalika karauna kolpak lìon-cinn Japanese hat kartriz konfederatka liripium jarrawiyah kasa Kopftuch little hennin jelly bag kasaba kopplak llautu Jenny Lind riding hat kaska kornek llawto ji guan kasket korona lokalio Jim Crow hat kat koruna lunardi jin xian guan katabira Kossuth madras turban jipajapa katapu kova sheberosho maekko moja jíros kat-no krachoom mafors Joan katsura-zutsumi ksoulia magiostrine jockey bonnet keffieh kubba’ah maharmah jockey cap keffiyeh kugel mahrameh John Bull kelle kulah malafa 364 Appendix A mameluke turban mortier nón lông passamontagna Mandarin hat mös sa nón sat paysanne bonnet mandel mountero Normande cap pecā Mandel mu da Normandy bonnet penteado mandil mu mán nukkadar pentlení mandīl mu miên nuometas perlehatt mant mubaf Oatland village hat Persian cap mantellina mubarshi bakin fara obalenka Peruvian hat màokuir mudang morikkoji obi hat pet mappelana muffin hat Oldenburgh bonnet petaa marafiya mugiwara bō ol-ogarenji petasos marama muibaf opera hat petassos marate mukla orle petasus Marie Anglais bonnet muktajala ouderwetse vrouwenmuts petit bord Marie Stuart bonnet mukut oval beaver hat petroméni Marie Stuart hat mukuta pāg phanatopa Marlborough hat Muller-cut-down pagdī phenta marmotte bonnet mundash paghadi phentā Mohammadī marmotte cap mundāsi paglietta pheta marquis mundil pagoda toque pheto Mary Queen of Scots cap mushroom pagote phrygian bonnet Mary Stuart cap mushroom hat pāgrā phrygian cap masla mutch pagri phrygium mauli muts painetta picaranga pāgadi mauli bandha mutsje pălărie picaranga peco Mazarin hood mütze paliacate pici Mazarine hood Mütze palisade picture hat Mecklenburg cap mwa non palliolum pifferaro bonnet melone nabchet pamela pifferaro hat mendil naga-tenuge Pamela bonnet pileus mendil hajj nambawi pamela hat pilgrim’s hat mercury ñañaca Panama hat pilleus merry widow hat ñañacas pannicelli pillion mezzaro napkin-cap p’anta pillu mian guan nastalik pantile pilos mighfar nati pañu sumbriru pinner Milan bonnet natiyo pañuelo para el cuello pipkin millma sumbriru ncok papaha pirnie millma sumbru Neapolitan bonnet papakha pirny mindīl Neapolitan hat papale pith helmet Minerva bonnet Neapolitan headdress papale ali‘i piwa haka mirliton nebula headdress papale hainika Platoff cap mistake hat necked bonnet papale ‘ie poculica mitra Nehru cap papale kahuna podkapnik moab Nell Gwynne cap papale kapu poffer Moabite turban Nelson hat papale la‘a poke bonnet mob-cap Nemes headdress papale mu‘ou‘ou polakem moja night coif papale ‘o‘oma polmesenic Monmouth cap nightcap papale waiokila polos Montana peak nimbus papanaky pomchā montera nirangi paquebot capote ponit montero nithsdale parachute hat pootae taua monteroe Nivernois pare pork-pie hat Montespan hat nón parta postboy hat morikkoji nón lá pasa montañas potae taua Garment Types 365

Princess Augusta poke salapok shinbar stephane Princess of Wales bonnet Salvation Army Lassie shirastra stephanie provincial bonnet bonnet shliapa stephanos pshente samasmiyeh shukina stiom pudding cap samo shumzil stiomag pug hood samurai-ebosi shunbar stoffelkappe pugaree şapcă sikhamani Stoffhut puggaree sapka singar patti stovepipe hat puggerie sarong sirastrana streimel puggree sarong billá siropāu Strohhut pulou sarong kadojo sirottarapattika stupa pulou fa‘afao sarong kaledo sirshad sturraic pulou pepe sarong lambing sirsobha sturraicean Pultney cap sarong lombok sjako sualef Puritan bonnet saucer brim skaut sudar shebetsavaro pussy-cat bonnet sbornik skrybélé suffibulum qalansuwa Scarborough hat skull cap sugar-loaf bonnet qalasuva schackelhaube slaapmuts suklang qalush schappel slat bonnet süveg quadricorn hat Schäppeli sljapa Swedish hat quadrille head Schirmmütze sljem Swiss mountain hat Quaker hat Schlapp Hut smadeh tagelmoust quartered cap schlappe snod tagilmus querpo hood Schotse baret snood taj qulaqça Schutzhelm sombrerera tāj rabagas bonnet scone cap sombrero takenaga radielfo scoop bonnet sombrero Cordobès takke Ranelagh mob scyfel sombrero de ala ancha talapaga ratnajali seerband sombrero de caballero talepā ratnavali seershaud sombrero de copa chistera talepaga rayonné Sekhemty sombrero de dos picos tali bate’ razsouchal sela sombrero de paja tali katarrung reed hat sella sombrero de tela tali tarrung regency cap semptress bonnet sombrero flexible taluqdari cap regency hat service cap sombreros de lana de tanggi relevés à la Marie Stuart sesir lado de Ambato taqiyeh resille sethi sonkoli cap tarboosh reta settee soroki tarbouch ricinium sgaball sou’wester tarbush istanbuli rigolette sgrog sovanel tarbush maghribi ritterhute sgrogaid sowback tarha Robinson hat sgrogan spa bonnet Tarleton helmet rollo sgulair Spanish hat tarpus rosario shaal sphendome tātē ukō rosehube shako spitzkappe tater roundel shale splinter hat tayyet sunnára Rubens bonnet shambar splints tchapka Rubens hat shamiya splyter-hat tellex rumal shamla spodic telpek rumala shapka spoon bonnet templers Russian bonnet sharb sraja temples Rutland poke sharbūsh sringa templettes safa shatweh statute cap tenugui saffeh shaving hat steeple headdress terai hat sakkos shimla stemma Thérèse 366 Appendix A tholia touret turmkrone Watteau hat three-stories-and-a-base- touret de nez turnover wayeta ment Trafalgar turban turra wedding ring hat thrum cap Tremont hat turro Weicher Hut thrummed hat trencher hat tutulus Wellington hat tian ze tresson twitkkoj welon tiara tressour Tyrolese hat weret tibiteika treugolka tyubeterka wide-awake tijajin d’mahduh tricornio tyubetevka wimpel Tilbury hat tricorno tzute wimple tirita trilby tzutes wincha toban Trilby hat uçkar Windhaube toca trinzale ugly witch hat toca de camino trolly cap uma tazina witch’s hat tocado Tropenhelm uma watana wraed tocco tropenhelm uma-no-tsura wrigels tock trotcozy under cap wu guan tocoyales tru unnatasikharavestana wuqa toer tsan ushnisa wuqayat al-darahem toering tsupári ushnisha wuqayeh toilet cap ttoljam usnìsa xiao yao jin tok ttuggong Venetian bonnet yagliq toocke tubao veni yaluk topee tüchli vestana yatshmagh topi tuck Vevai cap yeoman hat toque tuikkoji Victoria bonnet yumào toque à la Basile tuithoed viereckiger schleier zamliyeh toque à la Grande Pretesse tulband vigone zan toque à la Susanne tupy vitta zé toque à l’Iphigénie tuque voilette zhutu toque de fourrure turban volet zuan toquet turban bonnet volupere zucchetto toquette turban-diademe wa leng mao zukin toque-turban turbante Wallachian cap zurband toreador hat turf hat wanggwan Zylinder torsade Türken-kappen Wardle hat tot’urak taenggi turkey bonnet watabōshi touaille Turkish turban watch cap

JACKETS acton áo bò basquine a l’espagnole blezer aketon áo da-le batín bolero Albert jacket áo ðuôi-tôm Battenburg jacket bò-lu-dông Albert riding coat áo vét-tông battle jacket brasserole Albert top frock arqalix bed jacket British warm Alexandra jacket avqueton beer jacket Brunswick almain coat badan bekecs buff jerkin alpine jacket badiyān beshmet buis americana baishan bietle bujka angia baju bigouden bum-freezer Angouleme spencer balmoral jacket bi-swing bunte Sportjacke anorak barouche blanchet bush jacket áo bành-tô base coat blazer caban Garment Types 367 cadet jacket deacaid japona morning coat camara demi-tunique jaqueta mundir camargo demob jaquette Mütze cambridge coat dinner jacket jaquette coloriée mwa kwa campaign coat divolgatore jaseran Nehru jacket canezou dolman jaserant netcha caprice dolmanette Jean de Bry coat Newmarket coat casaco esportiva doloman jekkertje Newmarket jacket casaque doublet jemmy nimtanah casaquin en juste dress lounge jerkin Norfolk jacket cased body duck-hunter jerkinet Oxonian jacket cassock duffer jhulwa paletó cassock vest duffle coat jiakè paltock caubagalā duibleid joseph patrol jacket chak’et dulumás jupe pea jacket chalong phra ong long raja dushgreia jupel peinadore chaman dushegreya jupon peiteag-mhuinicheallach chanchanko ‘éétsoh ‘alts’íígíí justcoat peleue chaqué Eisenhower jacket kabaya pet-en-l’air chaqueta elek kaftany Petersham frock coat chaqueta corta de marino espécie de jaqueta kalambi pidjak chaqueta corta y gruesa Eton jacket kanjianr pierrot chaqueta deportiva eyelet doublet kasacken pijjekker chaqueta para casa fearnothing jacket kawa pinch back coat cheats félkabát kazaka polca chinese spenser Figaro jacket kodmen Polish jacket chogon flying Josie ködmön pourpoint chogori frock coat kolder poustomániko chuppaun gambeson kort wollen jasje powdering dress cicuilli Garibaldi jacket krauss powdering gown cinduse giacchetto kuppasam powdering jacket ciupag gipon kurti Prince of Wales jacket clawhammer tails gippon kurtka Prince Rupert coatee goon lhiabbee kusak puffjacke coatlet habit noir Lancer jacket quezote coin de feu hacketon leiber reefer condra haftel Leicester jacket reefer jacket coraco Eugenie hanten leth-bhòt reitrocke corsage hauketon M. B. waistcoat rennrocklein corse Henrietta jacket ma gua riding dress frock coat corsetka Hibenian vest ma-coual rochet costume au grand Figaro hikeshi hanten magoja rokk còta biorach dubh hongreline maiwai ropilla còta-goirid hoqueton mandeville ru coteron houri-coat mandilion ruiterrock cotla-gearr huang ma qua mang ao Russian jacket coureur hug-me-tight Mao jacket saco cowbandi Hungarian vest Mark of the Beast safari jacket cowes hussar jacket marlota saione crispin inar marsina sakko cutaway isticharion marynarka sako dalian jackanapes mess jacket salta damer jacket military frock coat salteh dandine jacket coat min nap samare daróc Jan de Bry coat mintiyan seircean 368 Appendix A seircin Spanish jacket tanzeb vét-tông semnar spencer taqsireh volant senorita jacket spencerette tea jacket waffenrock seven-eighths coat sportcolbert teakete wambuis shimabaori sportjasje three-seamer wammes shooting coat stambouline tight wammiss shotten-bellied doublet sticharion tujurka whole backs simtakvaldis sua yan tundra yachting jacket skin-coat sukmanki tuxedo yellow jacket skokie sultane jacket tweedside yonmibok smoking surjan ujjas zache smoking jacket tabard vaga zeke sobrecasaca tabbaert varens zoeaaf Spanish coat Talma lounge vastagkabát zouave jacket

JEWELS AND JEWELRY ac cu gahmahlie ānulus basc bractiates ačē attāmitō apavartaka baugr brāislēad ačē kéčō apo kula bāzūband bràist ačē saččō apo lima bēag bràisteachan achates apruoce beah braistich adaftō ‘aqd anbar bedelarmband brangenybé adamas ‘aqd wazari beg brangus akmuo adjagba beads ardhaguchchha beledzík bransoletka agait ardhamanavaka belette braoig agrafes de centure argolas beryl braslet’ águamarinha armbaand beryllus brahţara aigeallan armband bezelikia breichled aigilean Armband bezelitsa brilhante ailbheag armil bich-ngoc brinco ailbheag cluais armilla biezhen broche ailbheagan airgid armillae bignere brochetta àilleag Armspange bijou broszka āinne arracadas bijouterie brummaggem aision arsi bijoutier bughma alankara asawir ‘iradh bina bughmeh alfinete asimojórdano bindi bul aliança asinan biorān bulla allura mai-kai attāmitō bitug bzima âmbar avaghataka bizou cabestrillo amethyst baby pins bizuteria cadenat amethystus bach-ngoc black turquoise caefing ametist bague blue john caicmhe ametista bahu bortspeld camaieu amulet baiya Bouc camee amuleto baju bouchons de carafe candanhār anello bali boucle d’oreille candongas angada bane Boug carbunculus angulia bangle boukrania carcanet anguliya bangle bracelet bracaille carkanett anguliyaka banzhi braccialetto carkanette angūthī bar pin bracelete carkenet anthrax barjura brachiāle catula Garment Types 369 cebolão dalk gimsteinn iuele chachal dārgums giogan iziketsho chai dealg-gualainn gioielle jaatl’óól chaine de forçat dehri gioiello jaseran chalchihuitl ðerdan girandole jeanette chalong phra ong long raja dhammilia girri jièzhi chao zhu djore glasag-muineil jimiki charanalankara ðôi bông Glauvina pin jiqa charm string ðông-hò ðeo tay gleindorch joaillerie chaulari ðông-ho quá quít gólfi joaillier chipana dormilonas gørsemi joalharia chitika dorn-nasq graiveyaka jonc choclos dragocennost’ granaat jordáni choggā dragulj gredzens joshan choker drahokam gualcas juste au cou chrysolithus drilbu guard ring juvel chuði hat trai dwete ‘ka gu’ut juweel chuo eha gwddfdorch Juwel chuoi ekavali halsbaand juwelen chupetes electrum halsband kadā ciondolino er Halsband kakla ruota clach-mhara er dang Halsbouc kaklaryšis cluas-sheud erdif Halsboug kalasakha coire erhuán halsgjorð kalathaki cokar esawra Halsgolt kallača colar esclavage halsketting kamba iri colar de pérolas fail halssnoer kambánes coler faileach-an hamarti kamea colier fāinne hamsakah kanakakamaklaihkarma collana fàinne-pòsaidh handboei kanakakirita collier fantasia handu djere kanakaneyura collier de chien fausse montre hanga-korbo kancala cordoni feax-preon hāns kanchanakundala coron fermaglio hār kandaure coron òir fermail hara kangan corona ferroniere harasekhara kantha corona etrusca fibula haravsti kanthamala corona muralis fifele harayasti kanthī corona navalis figgragulþ hastávali kantje corona radiata finic hasti kapaladharina coronal firmale hemasutra kara coronet foil hoa tai karakchi creoles fraternity pin hoakakala karfitsa cridhachan friendship bracelet hong-ngoc karieliai crios-muineil furtuchsklemmer horloger karnabharana crochag gallang hring karnabhusana crotalia gemma hringr karnapura cruinneacan ghiordan huáibiao karnavalaya crùn ghungru huttu karnika crystallus ghwayshat igbiri karnotkilaka cùirnean giardinetti rings ilbora karnphul curi gim indrachchhanda kataka cyanus Gimma iner kaula ho‘olewa dalc gimme ioring keččō dali dali gimstān irbora keyura 370 Appendix A khalkhal màilleag naksatramala pelele kharaz azraq mālā náramek pendicle khatim mālāband naramiennik penduricalho khawatim malai narukvica pepa de zapallo khsur malda nasta pérola kila malwa naszyjnik phalaka kinkini manavaka nath phalaka hara kipini mangamelai ndeve phalaka valaya kirdan mani neck-chain phicchi Kleinod mani nupura nekhau pierścień kleinood manik ata nekhaw piñe kleinōt manik barata neura pine umauma klejnot manik bura bura ngoc trao platok klenot manik kalaa’ ngoc-bích plummet kniepe manik sekke’ ngoc-miên pohoi knol manik tai anda’ ngoc-thach poire kobe gani manik tinggi nine-djere poissarde kol’co mani-karnika nishka ponchiyā kolczyk manilha niska poro-toroa komo lima manillas njiru porte-bonheur kostbaarheden maninupura nupura pou-fou kotuly manivalaya nurki pravatra krul manjira nur-trang preen krulletje marfim nut prēon kugunni margarita obraczka slubna prine feilidh kullu marik Ohrring prokandaka kundala maskotka okana prsten kundalas matab òmar ‘pujok kunna mauktika alankara ombari pupu hoaka kupe‘e mauli mani onderriem putalya kupe‘e niho ‘ilio mdama kofe onechte juwelen pynn kuru meanbh-ghàirdean ordnasc qiladeh dhahab kwigoi me-ðay orecchino qladeh kyorhon panji mekhala ornamento de gioielli qladet ‘anbar kyorhon yak’on panji men ouch qladet morjan labret menat owa sibi qladet qrenfol lagidigba Menni oyam quynh lalatika mentel-preon oyuan rara lambana menyet ozerel’e rasana làmh-fhàil minda ozherelok ratna langar mkufu pada-bandhati ratnangulia langgu lungping modrwy pag-sanklā ratnavali languette mokgori pahuñchi rholwani látsíní monīle paidirean rijnsteen lavaliere morse paklari ringetje lei hoaka muddī p’aljji rinrin wallka lei niho ‘ilio mudrika palmas rivière lei ole muince pañchaphalaka rivieres de jais lei ‘opu‘u muintorc parel rjsó lei palaoa muktavali parihasta robijn lemmetørklœde muktika-hara parure rosenadel leug mullu passium rubi lozi murkī patrakarnika ruchika ma‘a taua nácar pectoral saffier mabiim náhrdelnú pedraria safira Garment Types 371 sairpaich soort bergkristal tautaliga uwaki sancaq sopanaka tauvae uwaki pulima sankhavalaya sorority pin tche djenji vaijayantika sankla sorro tembleques valaya sarcillus speld teybaraten djendji vàng ðo sardius spenel thanh-lam vành huyên sarkan wuya spennels tiao tuo vezzo satasutra spilenn Tierfibeln vibushana satlara spillo da petto tiki vijayantika satlari spinki tilari vòng huyèn savonnette watch Spitze tlws vòng tai scaraboid spoon ring tolomi vyalapanktirmañjari seod srnkhalika topas waki serekh steatitis topazon walka sēt stecknōlde tora-tora wallka sēt argait stoic torque wāyāč attāmitō seud-ghlasaidh sua yan torquēs wedja sha ’iriyya suddha-ekavali Trauring white turquoise sha ’riyeh suman trikarnas xiàngliàn shabakat al-kharaz sutra triphalaka xiàngquàn shahasi sutrahara triveni yangzhiyu shanf svechchhitika tro-c’houzoug yari yankunne shnat swamy jewelry trouwring yashmak shoubiao swar trrsa yasti signet ring szpilka truis-bhràghad ying luo signum talabo tulakoti yiordani sirsaka talhakimt tupu zarcillos sissin kara talhatina tupullina pichu jerguita zaybaqah sitara tali turquesa zegelring smàrag tanggok tusbahh zgarda smaragd tarahara uaki zgardan smaragdus taralapratibandha uati zhi huan sohofa tarangaka upasirsaka zhuó solje taulima usgaraidh žiedas søljer tauri usgar-bhràghad zobe sonko tauri koomore usgar-mheur

LACE

à jour barleycoms blonde lace Brussels lace ajour basane blondes de Caen Brussels needle lace Alençon lace bâti bobbin lace Brussels net Alençon point Battenburg lace Bohemian lace Brussels point aloe lace Bavarian lace bonnes grâces Brussels wire-ground antique lace Bedfordshire Maltese lace bordado suizo Buckingham lace Antwerp lace Bedfordshire plaited lace bourbon lace Buckinghamshire lace Antwerp pot lace beggar’s lace bourdon lace bullet-hole lace Argentan lace Belgian lace Branscombe point bullion lace Ärmelaufschlag Belgium Venise bretenne lace burano lace Armenian lace bibíla Bretonne lace buratto lace Arras lace binche lace Bruges lace buta Ave Maria lace black lace Brussels bobbin lace buti baby lace blonda Brussels edging campaigne banat blonde Brussels ground campane 372 Appendix A carrez de gaze encaje estrecho de algodón ivory stitch òr-bhann carrickmacross lace encaje frivolité kant oyah catgut lace encaje hecho a maquina karbatkos paddles chain lace encaje suizo kasida paimak champ English bars Katherine of Aragon lace Paraguay lace chantilly English edging kināri parchment lace chemical lace entre-deux klosant parnoe chenille blonde ficelle knipling part lace chenille lace fil de retour kniplinger passemayne lace cheyne lace filet lace krajky passives Chinese Venise fili tirati kruzeno patent lace chutki five hole lace kruzhevo peak lace cipka fleco morisco lāsa peasant lace cipky fond à la marriage lasdadh peniche lace cluny lace fond clair leadworks perlin creme de cachemire lace fond double leaves piryiellya Crete lace fond simple lierre lace pizzo cutwork frivolité Lille à fond clair pizzo ad ago a fuselli cutworks fuseau Lille lace pizzo punto in aria Damascene lace fuselli Limerick lace pizzo rinasciemento ðang-ten galão Lisle lace plaits dantelă galon d’argent little Venetian edging Plauen lace dantelez galon d’or livery lace point à la vierge death lace gassed lace madagascar lace point à l’aiguille dentelle gaze neige mailles carées point à reseau dentelle Angleterre Genoa lace Maltese lace point Colbert dentelle Arabe Genoese lace mantle lace point coupé dentelle au fuseaux gota Margot lace point d’Alencon dentelle aux fuseaux grains maskel lace point d’Angleterre lace dentelle cachmire Greek lace matt stitch point de Bayeux dentelle d’application Greek Venise mazzette point de Fée dentelle de Cambrai grillé Mechlin lace point de France dentelle de fil groppo Medici lace point de gaze dentelle de laine gros point mennuet point de gaze lace dentelle la vierge gros point de Venise merletto point de Hongrye dentelle renaissance ground merletto-trina chiaacchi- point de neige dentelle torchon gueuse erino point de Paris Devonshire lace guipure metal lace point de sedan dhanak guipure arabe mezza mandolina point de toile Dieppe ground guipure de Bruges mezzo punto point de Venise à reseau Dieppe point lace hair-pin crochet mignonette point d’espagne dotted Venetian bars Hamilton lace mignonette lace point d’esprit drawn thread work hamsa Milan lace point lace Dresden point lace head-side Milanese lace point plat duchesse lace hollie point lace Minuit poussin lace Dutch lace hollow lace modano princess lace encaje holly point Moorish lace punchetto encaje chantilli holy point Moravian work puntilla de Venecia encaje de aguja Honiton lace mukhta punto a feston encaje de àngel Honiton point Naples lace punto a maglia quadra encaje de bolillos Huguenot lace needlepoint lace punto a relievi encaje de Lila Hungerland lace Northampton lace punto gothica encaje de Malinas insertion Nottingham lace punto in aria encaje de malla cuadrada Irish crochet nun’s thread punto neve encaje de Milano Irish lace opus araneum purl Garment Types 373 pusher lace ruedas Spitze trina raised work Saint Gall lace sraing trollekant Raleigh bars Saint Martin’s lace stsepnoe trolley lace ratine lace salmā-sitārā Swedish lace trolly lace real lace Saxony lace tambour lace Turkish point lace redes Schiffchenspitze tambour work Valenciennes lace redicella Schleswig lace tape lace Venediger Spitze rempli Sedan lace tatting Venetian bars ren seeds tela Tagliata Venetian edging Renaissance lace sfilatura tela tirata Venetian lace rendalo shadow lace Tenerife lace Waborne lace réseau rosacé Shetland lace theke wheat ears rete silver lace thread lace Winslow lace reticella skinnsaum toi yak lace reticella lace Sorrento edging tonder lace youghal retículo Spanish lace torchon lace Ypres lace Roman lace spets trailer thread lace ysnodan Rosaline spice treille zarī rose point lace spider work Tresse

LEGGINGS, LOINCLOTHS, AND TROUSERS abito da pantalone bombachas bullion hose čarapa afrikin boot hose burzighino chakchiri almain hose bordāra pyjamā buskins chalana American trousers boti byxor chalwar ankle-breeches boulevart cabin boy breeches chambangi ashigappa braccae caeles chángkù avagraha braccas caiquan chàngtongwà bags bracco caksire chaparajos balaq braecce calanika charahuilla bante bragas calção charicari barn-door britches bragon braz calçâo de banho chariwari barrel hose bragou calçâo de montaria charoul bas bragou-braz calças chausettes bas à cotes braies calças de couro chausse bas à jour brayes calce chaussembles bas de laine brec calcetería chausses bas de soie brēc calcetin chausses en bourses bas de soy brec-hraegel calcetines chausses larges à l’antique bawelna breeches calza chausses semellees bearskin pants brīste calzamaglia chaussette bebed briuki-dudochki calzas conpies chaussette montant beli potouri brōc calzas enteras chaussures à cric bell bottoms broek calzas largas chaussures à point-levis benevretsi brœkr calzaz de aguja chirpa bermuda shorts broekrok calzettoni cholana bhagawān brogs calzón churridah birnetsi brok calzoncillo ciorap bít-tãt Bruch calzoneras cloak-bag breeches bloomers bruki calzoni cockers bobo Bruoch canions cocrez bogatya bryczesy capri pants cokers boje bukser carapa cool pants 374 Appendix A coranā ghaghara kaputula ya Kenya maolag corano gharara katitra martingale breeches cossack trousers ghutanna keilhose martō cossacks giosān kelinės maxtlatl cross-gartering gomeda lugadu kickies maxtli cuaran gregesque kitamby mechnesayim cūdīdār gregs klapbroek media cuecas gregues knee breeches medias y calcetines culok habaki kniebroek meia culot hakama Kniehosen meia calça culote Hallingdal breeches Kniestrümpfe meias de lã culotte hansworst kojinė melon hose culotte courte harisnya koksya meo dai seong siu kwun harlot komānam mest Danish trousers haut-de chausses konam miánkù darpe heerpauke korte miánmáokù dedo hetchi pansu kous mi’zar detachi hip huggers krótkie spodnie mocota dhile paenche hipsters ku mogan dhoti hlace kufia mogan briogais dimii hoi nong hu kuitbroek moggan dodot hoo Kurze hose momohiki ðôi bit-tãt hoo geok kwun kutsani gashti mompe don’t mentions hosa kyahan monpe dungaree Hosa lambahoany moschettos dunniattham hosan Lange hose môt chiec dvipadi hose langooty môt ðôi eelskin trousers hosen langoti moulds een broek Hosen lava-lava naqsha elbas hot pants lavreg nether integuments esquavar howling bags lederhosen nether stocks etam ’ie-tonga ledersen niúzaikù ezor ineffibles lehnga nivasana falda-pantalón inexpressibles leis-bheart nostle famalniya izār baftā leis-bhrat oashyr voynee farthingale breeches Jack Tar trousers leotardo oashyr-slobbagh feminalia Jamaica shorts liànjiaokù ‘ofuvae femoralia janghia libas ‘ofuvae pupu‘u fleshings jarretelle llodrau ósain French bottoms jhangias loer osanachd French hose jjalbunyangbokbaji loincloth overalls fu ku jodhpurs lóipíní Oxford bags full slops kach lole wawae paarengarenga fungomi kachcha lole wawae moe po p’aench’u gaiter bottoms kadillam lole wawae puha‘uha‘u pah-jungobein galligaskins kahan lower stocks painter’s pants gamashes kalhoty lungee paison gaskin kalidar pyjama lungi paji gatě kaltsá macchavalaka palhaço gatya kamben mairtíní pampanilla gaucho pants kameez malo Panovraki gebreid of geweven on- kandal malo kai pansid slops dergoed kaputula bombo malo wai pantalon geldem kaputula forpoketa Mantua hose pantalon de travial Garment Types 375 pantalone quan ta slyders tanga pantalones quat quì small slops tangalia pantalones bermuda railroad trousers sobre pantalón taparrabos pantalones cerrados por rajstopy sobrepantalón rajado tapih debajo de la rodilla rān socas tasile pantalones cortos ranch pants socc tattsuke pantalones de baño rank socka tibilaes pantalones de equitación rationals socke tights pantalones de gimnasia rhinegraves sok tight-slacks pantalones de golf rollers sokkr tokeine pantalones largos hasta rolling stockings sokoto tom-bons media pantorrillas roll-up breeches sokoto kafo tongs pantalones rajados roll-up stockings sokoto kembe toreador pants pantalones sueltos rollups soled hose traheen pantalones tejanos róngkù soort rijbroek trews pantalones vaqueros sabot pantaloons sowlar triubhas pantaloni salaka Spanish breeches triubhsair pantaloni all zuava salvar Spanish hose trius pantaloni corti salwar Spanish kettledrums troighthíní pantalons à pont sambu’ bongi Spanish slops trouse pantaloon trousers sampot spatter dashes trousers pantaloons šanāfilō spodky trouses panung sanghati spodnie trowses panungh sans-culottes sportpantalon trowsus papari sarawil stany trunk hose parengarenga satavalika stirrup hose trusses paridhana scalings stirrup stockings trykotaze pateshehon schalavery stoca trykoty patzeb schenti stocainn tsala pedal pushers scogger stocainnis tsurápe pedule sekernil stock-drawers tumatukuru peg-top trousers serouel straight trousers tuumatakuru perizoma seroval strapped pantaloons udones perna da claça serul strapul umutsha Petersham cossacks shaksheer strapula underwraedel petticoat breeches shalwar strømpe unmentionables pio borong sharovary strumpa unwhisperables pluderhose shenti Strumpf upasamvyana podkolanówki sherry-vallies Strumpfhosen upper stocks pofbroek shintiyan styfill vampay poignée short shorts sublagaculum varsikasatika polaina shortcuts subligaculum vastragrantha portki shorts sulraeksu venetians potur shtany sulu ventilated pants poturi sialoa suruwali ya Kolombo vraka poutouri sikma suruwali ya uchinjo wà priccses nadrág sirwaal survāla wano Pumphose sirwal svasthana wara puttee sirwall szük gatya wàtào quan skarpetka tabi waz quan cao-boi skilts tachi-kake wàzi quan cháo lòng skúña tagikeri welniane skarpetki quan coc slim jims tagora werkbroek of overall van quân ðùi slivers tail clout stevig katoen quan soóc slops talavantika werkpak 376 Appendix A wijde kniebroek xiu shang yar pariahan zōri wining yama-bakama yunatárja zsáknadrág winingas yangbok paji zaragüelles xà-cap yangmal zivka

LITURGICAL DRESS alb felon mozzetta sotaina albe Geneva gown omophorion soutane amice gremial orarion sticharion analabos humeral paramentos sacerdotais stikhar batina koorhemd phrygium stole casul léine-aifrionn pianeta di prete superplie casulo mandyas pillion surcingle chimere maniple pluvial surplice Chorhemd mantle and ring rational surplis chorrock Messgewand rhason toog colletin Messrock riza tunicle cope miter scapulari zucchetto cotta d’ecclesiastico monial simarre crùn-easbuig mozetta sobrepeliz

NECKLINES

à la chale bote cuello escote murabba à la Raphael camisole neckline escote en U sabaa ‘ahuua crew neckline Florentine neckline sabrina ‘a‘i décolletage gorge à la Gabrielle scollatura bateau neckline en coeur d’Estrees tou jim beffschen en Marquise halslijn

NIGHTWEAR baby doll pajama lole moe po negulrije slaapmuts bigotera lole wawae moe po padiniansanam suravalā camisola long-drawers pajama suravarā chamot mogul breeches pi-gia-ma toreadoll pajamas coramo mu‘umu‘u moe po pijama tumana dunne ochtendjas nachtjapon pyjama ijara nachttabbaert pyjamā Indian nightgown negligee silanebok

ORNAMENTAL TRIM (OTHER THAN LACE)

à la vielle aiguillette amanqonqo Arabian embroidery abla akertjes angleterre araneous acanthus alas Anglo-Saxon embroidery arápis acollé álises ankh arokah adai aljófar anuenue Arrasene embroidery adzalotí almenadas apparel arricciatura afshan Alsatian bow Appenzell embroidery arrowhead agrements altita applique asanoha Garment Types 377 ashasana borla cheval de frise deshilado ásimozúnaro borrillonnées chevaux de frise device asprocéndi Borte chevron dhardi assisi embroidery bottoni chicken diseño ata botwm chikan diseño a cuadro atrocelado bouffette chimpato diseño a cuadros escocés aubusson stitch bouillion chite diseño a rayas Austrian knot bouillioné chitterlings diseño con lunares awakipa boutis chou diseño raya de alfiler Ayreshire bouton chugata diseño tradicional de pi- Ayrshire work boutons d’oreille cicisbeo ñones babag bozal clavi dival babhaid bragoenen clavos dival isi Babylonian work brahón clock djéli bādlā brandenbourgs cloissoné Dorset thread button baende Brandenburg fringe cnaipe dou niu baize breast knot cnap drawn work balza bretelle cnapan-trusgaidh druin balzana Brittany work cneap dualadh band broderie cneap-tholl dubbahah banda arricciata broderie anglaise cocar duchess ba’o barit broderie en blanc cocarde dugme ba’o bata’ borderie en jais cockade dZi bead ba’o burur broderie perse codini ecaille work ba’o rawir bubúces comh-dhualadh echelle barbui búles contado echelon barros miudas Bulgarian embroidery coque embozalada bâti bullion embroidery coquillage en coulisse bavolet butti coquille en echelle de Jacob bead lace button coral currant button en platitude beading stitch buzáña corchete enbraude beauvais embroidery byzantine embroidery cordon English rosette bellotas cabachon cordoncillo con alma English work benerica cable cord cordonnet espèce d’ouvrage à jour Berlin work cabos couronne estofado bersáña cadena crepine estofée bertita cadeneta crewel work fa‘amau beten cadenilla crochê facings billiment cairel culgah faja rizada bishop’s knot Californian embroidery culgee falbala blackerybond campanoni d’ori cuprius Falbel blackwork Canadian embroidery cushion work falpalà blistering candramā cut linen work fancies bluff edge cannelé czechoslovakian embroi- fandaráca Blumenkränzchen cannetille dery favors bonnaz cañutillos Danish embroidery featherstitch bordado capitonné embroidery danshichi-goshi fei yu bordado a mano cardows darázsolás fers bordado con caladaos cartisane dasa festoons bordado con perlas cermuk de lazo fichu-robings bordado cortado chain stitch de todo lazo fijne punt bordado en blanco ch’aska death’s head button fil tiré bordado plano chasu Delhi work filete bordado suizo cherusque dentalium fiocco borduurwol cherusse dentes de loup fitelho 378 Appendix A flame embroidery gobanji jari languette fleco grand broché jet buttons larga fleco bullion grass embroidery jhalar laticlaves fleur de lis Greek embroidery jigger button lazouri fleur de lys gréis jin be wun lazúrja fleur volant gréiseadaireachd jirones le Savage fleuron gréiseadh Josephine knot Leek button Flitter gréis-obair Jugoslavian embroidery leki flitter braid grelot káçes lelingkok floconné grunong kalabattun lentejuela flóra guards kalghi let Florentine embroidery guazzerone kāmdānī liagh-dhealg flossing guilloche kara-nui lilit flots guirlande karfitsa lint flounce guirnalda kasináci lipine flounce à disposition güldenstick kasuti lipine silika flourish guosaga katab listónes flow-flow haakwerk kathipa Litze fly-fringe habkeh katikinari llambu franja haku-e kesdi llano franjas hamsa keshinui long French jet hamsa mithuna khatwa loraypu French work hardanger embroidery kināri lovertje frilal hasp k’inkus lustrini frill havanese embroidry kirin madeira embroidery frilling hedbo embroidery kiri-osa magatama frisure d’or hembras kiski maljor frog Hercules braid klídja malong andon froncés herrete klimatáca Maltese embroidery frounce hevilla klonári mang frúta Hibernian embroidery knap margarite fterotó hip buttons knapp margaritte fúndes holán knee-fringe Marseilles embroidery fundítses holbi knop mascaipacha furbelow horrō kogin maspilli fustan houppe komon Mathilde gacchakā-kī-tūrrī huckaback embroidery Komparu matsu-nori gadroon humu kaulahao kopseró megamendung galants humu puka pihi kornish mériza gallants humuka kosárky middy braid gallone humulau koshi mlawlaw galloon humupa‘a kosírek moisson galon humuwili kraspeda morisco work gammadion Hungarian cord Kräuseln moti gaufrure Hungarian embroidery krósça mua gauging iall kselitsi mullutuma gedilim igne oyasi kuka weke náplitsi Geneva bands incroyable bows kulgie nasture Geneva embroidery Indian embroidery kutchi bharat neck button Genoese embroidery intarsia labrada needle painting ghirlanda Irish work lacet noeuds d’amour gimp išānō lacis none-so-pretty glove string Italian ferret laka nuamhanair glove-band Jacobean embroidery lampasi nudo goat’s hair fringe Japanese embroidery langkit nuikiri Garment Types 379 núm picado pyramid style sic nun’s work piccadil pyramids sirpeach obair-ghréis picot qilim skofium obair-gréise picoté qutbah fallahi slips obair-shnàthaid pihapiha-‘o-kohola rabat smezzati moro ogami pihi rafugari snail button oir-ghreus pihi pulima randa söllstötter ojales pinchbeck button randas somoyo olive button pinking raquettes sonehri olivet piquets realce sorti olivette pístres rendalo sortie opus anglicanum plateado rendilhado soutache opus consutum plumage resi spangles opus filatorium po reticello Spanish embroidery opus pectineum podvika revers en pelerine Spanish needlepoint opus phrygium point de chainette ribean spiders opus plumarium point de cordonnet ribete split stitch opus pulvinarium point de croix ribine stalk button or nué point de festoon ribon stickerei ordinaria point de Hongroie ricamo stringhe oro de orilla point de raccroc ricamo in bianco strips oro hilado point de rose rick-rack sul orphreys point de sedan robin surihaku orrice point de toile robings surpaish orris point d’espagne roghan swire ourle point d’Espagne rondz tablion ouvrage à l’aiguille point nuré rosette tacley ‘owaynet al-sus point passé rouleaux taenggi oya point Turc ruban taihakuzan oya isi pomme de pin ruban d’amour taist ozura pompon ruché tambouring páfti ponto de cruz ruche contraire tanch’u paillette porcelain button rupehri tanch’u kumong pale praghata Rüschen taniko pallav pretintailles ryssewerk tapisserie paragaudion pu fa‘amau sabaleh targe parament pu zi sacha pullki tavlin passe puava saga tdinjok passementerie puce sarpech tekat menekat passements puertas saru three-fold linen button patagium puka pihi saula tifsireh paternostri pullings out saz tiin patti jets pun alai sceanc-gegirla tiin sin pattika puntada limeña Schleife t’ikita pavo real puntilla segmentae tinbiteh peinture à l’aiguille punto de almorafán serpeych tinsel printing pencilled punto de España shakkeh tira pendants d’oreille punto de oro llano shao tiraz band pepeiao punto llano sharbush tocapu pespuntado punto real sha-sha toll-cnaip petals Marguerite punto tagliato shisha tombodama Petersham ribbon punto tirato shohakuzan top button petershams purfle shoulder knots torsade petits bonhommes püsküllü shughl bet lahm torzal phulkari putan shughl talhami tourie 380 Appendix A trancinha twist button vez wings trapunto ubuhlalu vhulungu ha madi worms tremolanti ukrasavanje vidrilho worsted work trepats ulub vivos xian Tresse ungkoi volante xie zhai trimming à la greque utskurdsøm Vulcanite buttons ysnoden tsavága vandyke vuoddaga yutu tsepen varedira wadasan zardozī tsithsith varti wasserfall zarī tti vashti watashinui zogan tuft vegetable ivory buttons Weissstickerei tumpal venera wheel trimming turrā-i-mārwadī vermicelli whitework

OUTERWEAR abaaya amautik Asturian Belvidera abayah amictorium atigi Bernhardt mantle abbé cape amictus atka bernia Abocchnai amusse autui Bijou abolla anbijāniyya avondcape birda abrigo Andaluse cape awarua birrus abrigo cruzado Andalusia awayu Biscayan abrigo en forma de capa Andalusian azr bisht abrigo polo andrienne azur bitusca abrigo raglan Aneline shawl bachelik bivouac mantle abrigo trinchera Angouleme spencer bachlik blusão achchhadanaka Angouleme tippet backlik boemio achkan anterí bagalbandi bohemio ackhan Antoinette bagh boisson Adèle ao bagnolette boliviano adhivasa áo baðò-suy baju boorka agbada áo bành-tô bakku boubou ahuayo áo bò balagnie cloak bournouse ‘ahuna áo choàng Balaklava Braganza ‘ahu‘ula áo ðan balandrana Brandenburg ajrak áo ði mura balmacaan brat alberoce áo lanh lót vāi bông balmoral cloak bratt Albert cape áo lông balmoral mantle broché shawl Albert driving-cape áo muta bandera bubou Albert overcoat áo toi band-gale-kā-coat bucksain Alboni appilion bandi bui-bui albornoz aprapadina bāndiā angarkhā bunda Albuera apsiustas bandvai gujarati burka Alcamina Aramis mantelet bành-tô burnous Alexandrine Arctic bann-bhràighe burnouse Alice Maud argūbō barani buros alicula arisard Barbour jacket burqah alkhalak arkhalukh Barcelona byrrus alkhaliq Armenian cloak bard çabut Alma Armenian mantle barracan caddow Alma Escharpe armilausa basing cadows Almain coat aronui bautta caeppe almerian Arragon bayeta de lishtas cagoule Alsatian artois Belle calcheña llijlla Garment Types 381 camail chambard mantle Cora mantle dogi cambolim chamford mantle Coraline dolaktanka cambridge paletot chamma Cordovan dolama Camilla mantelet chammer corso domino Campan chang cosar donariere campera chang-ot cot Doncaster riding coat candakanta ch’ao fu còta biorach dubh dorina canezou chapan còta de chadadh nam ball d’Orsay coat capa chape còta-cathdath doschella capa corta chape à aige còta-craicinn doshala capa larga charwa còta-fada doshāllā capa magna chasuble còta-gearr dou bo capa morisca cheo còta-glas douillette cape à l’espanole cherkeska còta-uisge douillette à la Russienne capellar Chesterfield overcoat cote doupeng capixaij chi fu cote à armer drapi capixay chinacholaka còt-iochdair duandàyi capote chlaine cottage cloak Duchess cappa clausa chlamus còt’-uachdair Duchesse cappa magna chlamydon courtepy duffle coat cappa nigra chlamys courtepye dukulottariya capuchin chloene Crimea dupattā caputrock choga crispin dura’ah caradori chonbok crispin cloche dusa cardinal chope cubhrag dushegreya careless chuddah cuculla duster Cariola chuddar curricle cloak Dutch cloak carmeillette chugha curricle coat eddimō caroline spencer chulla cara curricle pelisse eglantine carrick chunadi cyclas elbow cloak çarsof chupa czarina Emily casaca chupkun dáábalii Empress casaco chymer dachang Empress pardessus casaco de peles chyrpy dadhikali English wrap casaco para uso caseiro cifatten daimon epanechka casag cifraszür damesmantel epitoga casag-mharcachd cinnteagan dangdong Escurial casaque cioppa Darro Esmerelda casaweck cira date-gera Estramadura cashmere shawl circular dauphiness étole casōg cleòc dekmantel Eureka cassock mantle cleòca Gaidhealach del fachalina Castiglione cleòcan demi-converti fachallina Castilian cloca demi-surtout faldetta casul clog dengue Faliero chaddar cloke Desdemona fallaing chadri coamery dimayeh falluing chakva chir cochall diphtera falnis chal cochl diplax faraguja chale codrington Directoire coat fargal châle de brodie čoha djebba fargī chalet Colleen Bawn cloak djellaba farwah chalina collet dobuku feldr challapata Columbine dochu-gi Felix chamarre copricappa dofuku ferace 382 Appendix A feridge’ grego Inverness kalambiara ferka Grisi ionar kalasiris ferraiuolo guba isallo kalavadi ferreruelo gueules iscayo kalmus fichu Ristori guleron isigula kambal fieltro gun fu Isir kambalaghana Flora gunia istela kamzar Florentine gunoberonicia Italian cloak kanchuka for-bhrat guõc itstela kandys Fornarina hacele izar kapa fota Hachul jabul kapishay frac haik jāmāh kaplamás frakke haik royal jamawar kapoto French cloak hainah jas kappa frileuse hakuls jelab kappe fūan halena jellab kaput fugi haleny jellaba kaross fugitive coat halstuch jellabia kashabia gabán hana jellib katra gabano haori jellick kaupapa gabardine harzkappe Jenny Bell kaváði gabbano hendira Jenny Lind sortie de bal kepa gadar henke jibbeh kera-mino gambeto henri deux cape jillayeh kerry cloak gansey Hermione jimbaori kesa gansy herreruelo jirga poncho khalat garannō heuke Jocelyn mantle khalaty garbh-chulaidh hidim Josephine khan tua garde-corps hidim al-khal jubba khirka gardecors hi-goza jubbah khirkah garrick greatcoat himation jube khirqa gestaltrock hinggi jupen kho ghava-ye zananeh hiranyan atkan júrda kiber ghost coat Hispania justaucorps kidara giacca hitoe kaabe ki-gomo giboun hiyyak kaap kihei gig coat hong-bào kabanica kihei ‘a‘ahu no‘eno‘e giná hop-pada kabát kirk gipsy cloak Hortense mantle kachabia kisaly Gitana housse kadroun klashnik giubea houtje-touwtje-jas kaftan kodot giumedanii hrycg-hraedel kahu huruhuru koloka gla Halstuch huallas kahu kaakaapoo kontush Gladstone overcoat huik kahu kekeno kooletah glinne huke kahu kiwi koreddō glocken Hungarian wrap kahu kura korowai glouhché huque kahu kuri koti oversaizi godweb-cynn huru kurii kahu toi kountouch gole hwitel kahu waero koyava govillam ichella kaidori kozhoushé gramalla ihupuni kain kudu kozhukh grand domino Imogen kain lemar kozsók grande pelisse d’hiver Imperial kaiser-rock k’sa grande redingote à inar kaitaka kudtā l’allemande Incroyable kalambi kuka Garment Types 383 kuka‘aila macaña Maud oferlaeg kunka unku Macfarlane Medina oferlagu kurochō mackinaw mekkō ofer-slop kurpasaka mackintosh melaya liff ofer-slype kurteh Madrid melote oggaegori kurti mai mentel okhaben kutapa Maintenon cloak mentik olicula kutusoff mantle malabary mentlíky olojémiti la Bretelle mameluck messaria Omer mantle la comptesse Walewski mameluke mētelis opera cloak la Esmeralda manaeka miktorin Ophelia la Grange Mandel milakatra opperkleed la Hermione manga mino out-coat la Manuela mangaeka mintean over-all la Marguerite mangt’o Mirandella paakee la Ophelia mang-tô mirjāi paakee nui la Puritana manta mishlah paakee tikumu la Stella mantal mi’zar pabagu lacerna Mantal Modena pacotilla lamba manteau Moldavian mantle pād le Caprice manteau à la cavaliere mong pao paddock coat le Gitana manteau à l’italienne Montana pa-ðo-suv le printemps mantilla manteau de cocher Montebello paenula lefhah mantee montenegrin paepaeroa lembe manteel Montpensier mantle paida lenn mantel monty-coat paisley shawl Leonese mantelet Moresco pa‘iua letnik mantelet à la grand mere Morresca palestine Lexington cloak mantelet au lever de Moscow wrapper paletó liburnica l’aurore Mother Hubbard cloak paletot lijnne mantelette mousquetaire paletot-cloak Lily Benjamin manteline mousquetaire mantle paletot-mantle linaga mantell mptull paletot-redingote Lindbergh jacket mantello mui dat paletot-sac listao ponch mantilla mulabbada pall litewka mantita musa palla llacota mantle Muscovite pallatine llakolla manto mushal pallium lliclla manto de oraciones Navailles Palmerston wrapper lliglla manton de mantilla navershnik palto llijlla mantones de Manila Newmarket overcoat paludamentum lliklla mantua marguerite Newmarket top frock pandjesjas loden Marian ngore pañolones London Fog Marie Antonette fichu ngore paheke pañuelo Lou Lura cloak Marion nicola panutzutzu ukufachallina Louisa mantilla marlota nicula parakiri Louise mantelet marlotte night rail parawai Lucie Marquise Nightingale pardessus lùireach marquise mantle nine-tenths coat pardessus redingote lukka Mary Stuart nisara parmnaram lulu ali‘i masher dust wrap nishra parrock lumman Mathilde mantilla Novado partlet lung p’ao matinée nurse’s cape pāsābandhi kediyū lusekufte matschigote’ oet’u pasabandi kediyoo luto poncho mattal ofer-braedels patatúka 384 Appendix A

Patrician policeman’s cape rachdan salampy patte Polish greatcoat Rachel cloak salim shahi pauku Polish mantle Raglan salmah pealltag polka raglan cape salteh peasant fichu Polka raglan covert coat sālū pebasa polonaise pardessus raglan overcoat samaksika pekerere polonese rampoor-chuddar samghati pekin Aneline polrock rankavapata Saragossa pekin bournous polushubka rasi sarbal pelerine polverino ratnakambala sarbalehon peleryna pompadour pardessus rebozo sarong pakolong pelise ponchito recal saut-en-basque pelisse poncho redingote a l’amazone saya pelisse-mantle poncho amarrado redingote du matin saye pelisson poncho boliviano redingote en Backmann Scarborough ulster pellanda poncho cuadrada regency mantle scarf volant pellicea poncho jijún regency wrapper schauslooper pellicia poncho rosado regenjas schoudermantel Pembrocke paletot poncho tiñiska Regina sciccels peplum dolman poncho tintoridao reink’ot’u sciccing peplum rotonde pora reister cloak sclaveyn perraje postin rheno sclavine perramus posztólájbi ridā sclavyn perreje o tapado pot riga Scotia Persian vest pracchadapata Rigoletto mantle sea coat peshwas prachchhada Rimini sea-gown peski princess paletot rio verde sealskin coat Petersham greatcoat Princess Royal Rio Verde sealskin sacque phaa biang Princess Wagram Ristori shawl seïméniko phaa chet Priora Roc señora llijlla phaa khaaw maa prosaponcho rocc serape phaa pat chieng prudent rock setre phainoles pu fu Rock seuchd pharos puahi rodillera Sevastopol phatoi puamoamoa rokkr Sevillian phatui pug ropa shadow pheran pukaha roquelaure shah ajidah phullu pukupuku Rosaline shahajidah pi’ao p’ullu Rosamond shal pidzak pureke rotonde shaleh pierrot cape Puritan rotonelle shamew pijian pustin ruana shash pilch puuahi Russian shawl Josephine pilche Pyramid talma sabai sherwani pilos qabā sac overcoat shinel pink qadar sadlo shuba pitambara cadara qaziyeh safsarī shugga plasc q’epirina sagos shuka plást qirmizi don sagum siapo płaszcz qiú saider sideless surcoat ploščius qubā saie sifsari podvika quechquemitl sajás sigúni pœll qumbaz şal kuşak siki pokeka qungo Salamanca sikinchina Poland mantle raccoon coat salampe simarra Garment Types 385 simarre szür toga virilis wahi simlah taapahu toghe wàitào sindon taatara toopuni wàiyi siphonia taawakawaka top frock wàizhao sjaal taglioni topper wallkarina skandakarani Taglioni frock coat topuni wappenrock skarabigion tailored coat tribon wasa skilkja takaschiya Trolldals-trøya washa fachalina slavin takauchiyah trutag washajatana slicker talar tshapan wasti sling-duster tallien redingote tshoga waterproof cloak Snowdrop tallith tuapora Wellesley wrapper sobrecapa Talma cloak tudor cape Wellington coat sobrecasaca Talma maltese tulup whakatipu sobretudo Talma mantle tumbe whanake sobretudo sôlto Talma overcoat turamaggie whittle soccus talma Zuleika turumagi wickler solo tamein tweedside overcoat witchoura soprabito taonga twine witschoura sorket tapa Tyrolese cloak wœfels sortie tara ubrus wrap-rascal sortie de bal taratara uchikake xale soyacal tatua ulster yacolla Spanish cloak tcherkeska umavadi yana poncho Spanish coat tebenna umbrella robe yapanji Spanish mantle terrier overcoat Undine γoûva spenser cloak three-decker uttariya yura poncho Stella tikamist kore vagho yuyi su kom tilmatli Valencia zaboon sua hii timu Valencian zamora sua saband thaut tippet Valentia zane suba tiputa varabana Zanfretti mantle suburban coat tjeld varasi zeghe Sultana tobe Varna zephyr cloak Sultana opera cloak toboggan varvana zephyr shawl sumane toga Venetian cloak zhàoshán supertotus toga candida Venice zhaoyi surdut toga contabulatum Victoria zhe ji surtout toga gabiana Victoria mantle zimarra surtoutà la Sultane toga palmata Victoria pardessus zlalzil surtuk toga picta Victoria pelisse-mantle zouave paletot suyacal toga praetexta victorine Zuleka švarkas toga pulla Violet Zulima svārki toga pura viramo zuyacal svyta toga sordida visité syool toga trabea Vittoria szal toga umbo waefels

PERFUME aegyptium frangipani perfume lukini boltrachan hyangsu panghyang 386 Appendix A

PLEATS accordion pleats gadroon plisado plooi bulgare pleat godet pleat plisado en abanico purl chikara-age kick pleat plisado en acordeón Watteau pleat duchesse pleat knife pleats plisado en sierra fluting Montespan pleats plisado encontrado

PURSES

‘a‘a moni bursa hakoseko punge abgar butung handubaek reticule alforja buzunar indispensible ridicule Algerian purse chatelaine bag long Melford ring purse almoner chigap mala sabretache alner chuspa Milanie schoudertas amonieres sarrasinoises ch’uspa miser’s purse scrip aulmoniere ch’ūspa morrales sepu’ aumoniere Coralie musette bag songabang balantine dasko paiki pa‘alima songkabang ballantine escarelle pautener spiochag barrel purse Eugenie purse pishka sporan beurs Eulalie pochette stocking-purse bolso gibeciere poke tasna borsa gipciere portemonnaie ví tay bourse gipser pouch bourserie en lisse gypciere puke pakeke

SHIRTS aba camisa de rigor Fusex shirt kasuri no shatsu akanjo camisa polo fustar kazachock akanjobe camise Gekko shirt kolobium aloha shirt cemes gesteven overhemb kosile anart garbh cheats gimnasterka kosovorotka shirt aquatic shirt chemise d’homme guernsey kósula barong tagalong chènshan habit shirt kosulja bluey chuga haihúnshan koszula meska body shirt cilice hair shirt krekls boiled shirt coat shirt half shirt krez bosom shirt comboy haluk kudtā bredzon corazza ham kumya bubu cotón hemd kurta busserull crys Hemd labaada caimmse culeco Hemde leine cămaşă deiji’ée’ hemeþe lêine cambja deraa henley shirt léineag camicia derekas ing historical shirt léine-chaol camicia rossa derrara hringofinn serkr léine-chròich camisa dish dasha jumper léine-sheacair camisa chaki picada emperor shirt jupe léine-thuilinn camisa de homem etibo kabaa léinteag camisa de lā frontje kameez lēne camisa de la tela amarilla fugu kanzu lobogós Garment Types 387 maršliniai pushk kurta sadarā so-mi ca-rô messauria qamis sadaraa so-mi-dét nimā qamīs saffron shirt sorō ‘ofutino regatta shirt salūkā thob overhemb riza scyrte tikamist paheran ròinn-léine serc tilbi pairan Rough Rider shirt serkr tirkô pala ‘ehu rubaca sherte tiu camisa pansomae syossu rubakha shirt-drawers tobe pisany lapti rubakha kosovorotka skjorta toraco pleated shirt rubasca skjorte tunic shirt podopleka rubaska skyrta waisyooch’u polera rubina smoc warmi camisa pteruges ruffled shirt somi

SHOES AND SHOE PARTS a tsi’kin basmak buckskin chappals acrobatic shoe batas bulgha charan dharan Adelaide boot batts bulldog toe chāubwalī jootī ahaddha bear’s paw buskins ch aussure ah’ta qua o weh biànxié but Chelsea boot al-aqrāq al-zarrariyya bicycle bal çabat chinela alaska blucher cabbage shoestring chopines Albert boots bocskor cacci chukka boot alcorque bolzegin cack cipela alpargata bootikin cactli çipsip aluta luxor borceguí caisbheart cizmah amageta bota caite clabaran amanyatelo botas calbhthas clarence antigropolis bote calc clog apron front botez calçado clot aqraq botforti calcarapedes cockers aratóbocskor botina calceolus colonial pump arc’henad-kambr botinicos calceus comforts arctics botte calceus patricius congress gaiter artois buckle botte à genouillere caliga congress shoe ashida bottekin caligula corked shoes avampié bottine callaid corned shoe babouche bòtuinn calzado cothurnes baboutcha bow shoes calzatura coturno baby doll shoe breaban-deiridh caméléon crackow shoes baby French heel breaban-toisich campagus cracow baby Louis heel brodekin canipo creedmore babysokje brodequin caoxié crepida bachelor shoes brōg carabitina crinc back-strap shoe brogan tionndaidh carpet slippers Cromwell shoe bagging shoe brogans carranes croquet boots bal bròg-bhréid caucho pargate csizma balga bròg-chalpach čebatas cuaran balmoral brõg-fhiodha cebot Cuban heel balt brogues cepök cut-fingered pumps bandhana-krtsna buatais chanclas dameslarrje bar shoe bucket-top boot changhwa dan garagai 388 Appendix A

Derby shoe Grecian sandal kama‘a lo‘ihi mojdī Dom pedro guêtre kama‘a pale wawae mokasyny d’Orsay pump gymschoentjes kama‘a puki mok’kus sin dress Wellington hakimono kamiks Moorish boot duantongxue half boot kampskatcha mule duck-billed shoes han’pa kampskatcha slipper muleus eared shoe hemming kanjiki musha‘‘ara elastic-sided boots hessian kanonenstiefel naaldhak eminii heuz karanko geta nagarā empeines heuze ké deigo danineezi namaksin escaffignons highlows ké’achogii Napoleons escarpins hiscu kee ha hai ngozi ya kioo eschapins hock see hai keményszárú csizma Norwegian slippers esgid hoge laars khapusa obucá espadrille hoge toneelschoen kheaya el kebira obuv esqui hoggers khuff obuwie external high shoes hok see hai kierpce ocreae rostratae Faust slipper hoseaux klompen okers ferradura huarache komag opanky finnesko hupodema komager opera pump flight boot hussar boots komusin opera slippers flokati Hussar buskins kopa opinak fotgewaed iallachrann krepis opinci fragrance on the surface ihu kama‘a krpce opinki of the soles ‘ili pale o kama‘a kubi najûn kudo oubosyuuju fragrant leaves impilayoth kubi nop’ûn kudu overschoen French fall impilia kurpė Oxford gillies fudag încalţa minte kwitsa pargates Oxonian boots gábmaga Italian heel laars pa‘a kama‘a gaiter Italian slipper lacing studs paaraerae gallicae jack boot laggosszárú csizma paboudj galliochios Jackson shoes landrines pabuç galloshoes jarbā lapot pada galocha Jemima larrigan padigunthima galoche jemmy boots lasting boots paduka galoscia jiaxié latchet pagarakhā galosh jiaxue leperhose pah-poosh galosses jika-tabi leth-bhòt paiafzar gambade jockey boot li kama‘a painntin gambado jojky llanque pale wawae gamoshes jootī loafer panaena gaogenxié ju lotus flowers pantaplis gau dai hai jue lotus seeds pantofel geta Juliet lu pantoffel gheatah kalíca lustriña Pantoffel gheta kalikia ma xue pantofle ghillie kaltsi madas pantofola giay ta kaltsouni maolas pantoufle giay tây kama‘a méstia pantuflas giay tuyet kama‘a hakahaka mezz pantuflo gillie kama‘a hawele minalim paoxié giveh kama‘a ‘ie mizz papari go-go boot kama‘a ili mocassin papuc golosh kama‘a laholio moccasin papuca gomushin kama‘a la‘i mock see hai papute Garment Types 389 pasoúmia sandalium startups tyelambu patent leather boots sandalo stevige schoen tzanga pattens sandalon Stiefel Überschuh patynek sandals à la greque Stiefelette udo pejar sapata Stiful ugurulik pērō sapato Stival ujuta phaecassium sapog stivale undonghwa pianelle sapogi stivaletto unhye pigache saru stivali upanah piked shoe savate stivali grossi upanat pinson scarpa stövel urbāi pisany lapti scarpe støvle ushuta plantillas schoen strandschoenen ‘usut’a plimsoll schoenveter strevíc usuta pokkuri scōh suarrow boots valenki Polish boots Scuoh swiftlere van-hài polonia secque tackies varna-krtsna pompadour heel se‘evae takajo-tabi vaturinapada pomposa selba takelmi veldschoen postola servilla takitaki viatu vya Johanna poulaines shenandoah talabanr viatu vya kliipa pramana-krtsna shin talaria viatu vya malapa puhaszárú csizma shoen talika viatu vya matende puki shoepack tamanco voided shoe puncocha shukuy tanhwa waraji punta roma shu’lush taoxié wata puntas silipa tatamis wedgie pushk kurta sko tchédik Wellington boot quail-pipe boot skōhs tenisówski Wellington half-boot raglan boot slife-scoh tennis shoe wùla red rippers slipēir terlik xi red russels slipe-scoh thiet-hài xie rifeling šliuré tittirapattika xue rilling slobkousen toffel yezmeh riveling sniegowce tøffel yi’chit tal Roman sandal soccae toloboni yslopan rullion soccus tongue pump yuxié sabot solea toorua zābaks sabotine sopagas top boot zancha saddle oxford soulier totnamaksin zapatillas saddle shoe spad-choisbheart totsin zapato salemshahī spats trzewik zapato de mujer sin cor- salim shahi spatter dashes tsangiá reas sambatsi spectator tsarvouli zapato oxford sandaal spiked shoes tufel’ záyres sandal spit-boot tuflja zoccolo Sandale splay-footed shoes tulapunnika zōri sandale spring boots tupele zueco sandália staeppe-scoh tuumatakuru sandalias startop Twenty Grands 390 Appendix A

SKIRTS

à l’innocence reconnue doso jelteta orla aba dudda joeb otcharak adhivikartana eel skirt jubka pagne ajsu el costal jupe paisin amabejhu eleven gore ripple skirt jupe-pantalon pakiri mbola anacu empire skirt kain lepas panaeva anaku enagua kain sampin panel skirt angel overskirt enredo kamben panjóva bagazia enredos kampu anaku pano ballet-skirt envuelto kandys panung balloon skirt etapi kaunace papaki bases falda kebaya parasol skirt basquina falda con tabla añadida kiki skirt pareo bavlnka falda envuelta kikois pareu bezulánky falda escocesa kilt pasuāj bhairnavasani falda-pantalón kilted skirt pasvāj bidang faldellin kinkini pa‘u bikla featherbrush skirt kuntunkuni pa‘u heihei bogazie filibeg kusulaka peasant skirt bolsicón fimbria ku‘uwelu peg-top skirt borda fota kwun pendely bouwen fourreau skirt lahra patora peplum overskirt broz fralda lau pahudu pesa buba fustă lipa bannang peshgir calanaka fústa lipa garrusu pestiman calani fustanéles liùsb phaa sarong camargo puff fustanella longyi phaa sin camboys gaghra lostenn phaa yao candataka gergueta malong phali carana ghaggharo malong andon pichu anaku centro ghagra malong pandi pie centro de lana ghagri mang chu pindileu ceòis godet skirt mapel piupiu cháng gonella maxi plakhta charak gonna mermaid’s tail pokinikini ch’ima gonna pantalone midi pollera chimphullani gored bell skirt milkmaid skirt poneva chiripá grannie skirt minifalda posahuanco cias gun minigonna pristídha ciasan gyolocsfersling minijupe quimono cirb hanina Minirock qún comboy harem-hem skirt minirok qúnzi cornet skirt hau‘ina mo rainy daisy skirt corte hobble skirt morga rapaki cottereau hondorgo morning glory skirt refajos cueitl Hosenrock mshono wa mwavuli refajos plegados de caracolillo housemaid skirt musui Rock debajero huali muszuj rok desplegada hula skirt nages rokoja Directoire skirt ihenga ncak rokolya dirndl ishiwaba ncaka ishyeen rondastakken divided skirt iupca nshak sadiaka dodo jeltesta okrel safeguard Garment Types 391 safety skirt sin súkenice tuman saia singelos sukne tunic skirt saiote escocês sipu anaku suknja umbrella skirt sakete skört sun-ray skirt umtika sarafan skørt swing skirt üst tuman saya sottana tablier skirt vat Schotse Hooglanders spódnica tapis váy sgùman spódniczka tembe vîlnic sgyrt spodniczka szkocka tie-back skirt vulnenik shang straight English skirt tl’aakal xà-rông shendot sucna tucked skirt xong

SLEEVES

à gomito French gigot sleeves manga pokeys à gozzo French sleeves manga ahuecada ponyet à la jardiniere furisode manga caída prince’s sleeve ailerons Gabrielle sleeve manga dolman pudding sleeve amadis Garibaldi sleeve manga gitana Puffärmel amadis sleeve gigot sleeve manga kimono raglan sleeve angel sleeve grande-assiette sleeves manga murciélago rekaw Ariadne sleeve Grecian sleeve manga raglán religieuse sleeve Ärmel half bishop sleeve mangas perdidas roxalene sleeve balloon sleeve hanging sleeve manica sleeve à la Louis Quinze batwing irdan manica a buffo sleeve à la Minerva bellows sleeve Isabeau sleeve maniche á comeo sling sleeve beret sleeve Italian sleeve Margaret of Valois sode bishop sleeve jockey sleeve Marie sleeve sode-guchi bouffante sleeve kato manikia Marie-Antoinette sleeve somae butterfly bow sleeve kum marino faliero sleeve soufflet sleeve cannon sleeves Lady Alice sleeve medias mangas Spanish sleeve cap sleeve leg of mutton sleeves Medici sleeve sultan sleeve caroline sleeve lekmann detsmira melon sleeve sultana sleeve cased sleeve lima mitten sleeve swallow’s nests cavalier sleeve lima puha‘uha‘u Montespan tamoto circassian sleeve Louis XIV sleeve Montespan sleeve tàoxiù coat-sleeve mamelouk sleeve mousquetaire sleeve tay áo Donna Maria manche mouw ‘uha hipa double bouffant sleeves manche à gigot musequí Venetian sleeve du Barry sleeve mancheron mushroom sleeve Victoria sleeve eelskin sleeve manchette de cour pagoda sleeve virago sleeve elephant sleeve manchettes pancake sleeves wearing sleeves false sleeves manege averte pansomae farthingale sleeves maneras peg-top sleeves

STRAW abaca ballibuntal buriti Japanese mocha agave ballibuntl Cebu hemp jipijapa aloe hemp bangkok Davao hemp koffo Baden hemp Belgian split straw estrain liseré bakou bombanas French chip Manila hemp baku buntal Italiaans stro paillasson 392 Appendix A parasisol rattan wara ramie tuscan Zillon braid

SWEATERS

áo ðan coltrui lammie suéter áo len cowichan sweater lammy suwet’o Aran Isle sweater cricket sweater pullover sweter zapinany chandail gebreid vest Pullover twinset chompas jersey sweater saco de abrigo welniana kamizelka

TIES AND SCARVES

à la Byron das lahariyo riha à la Napoleon disa lahasyo Royal George stock abnet dopatta lamballe rūmāl amhcha ecrouellique lingjié sailor’s reef knot tie angavastra Elbert Hubbard tie lingjin sālū ascot tie fichu loros sampour ballroom neckcloth fichu Antoinette lorum santon bann-bhràghad fichu Corday macaroni cravat sautoir belcher fichu la Valiere maharatta sbernia berdash fichu menteur mail coach scallop bib-cravat fichu raphael mandili Schlips bilqusak fichu Ristori military stock sebnia boa fichu-pelerine mofeler semfiti bolia fly plaid moktor shal bufanda focale Napoleon necktie shesh buffonts follette neck handkerchief shirinka bukhani foulard neckcloth shoe-tie necktie carthage cymar four-in-hand neckstock skuinsdoek ca-vát French boa neerstick starcher chaconne fu-la nekt’ai Steinkirk chalina giall-bhrat obiage stìom-amhaich chemisette gravata octagon tie succinctorium ciotag Halsbinde orhna suggan cleòcan halsneusdoek Osbaldiston tie sultana scarf cloud Halstuch Oxford tie tapalo coilichin hunting necktie pachedī Teresa comforter hunting stock palomita tóu jim corbata Huntley scarf pañuelo trabea corbata ascot Indian necktie pañuelo para el cuello tubular necktie cravat infula Persian scarf ufanta cravat cocodes jabot phāgniā umpal cravat strings joinville phu-la uparanī cravate kājaliyā pichodī uparanū cravate à la Bergami kasumbo piliyā uparna cravate cocodes khan vaông pīlo upavastra cravate de bureaucrate kidungas plain bow stock velo cravate mathematique king klipper platok vexillum cravatta Kravatte pomaco volant Cremona cravat krawat qadifeh wéijin cūndad Krawatte rabat zéédéeldoi cunnī kroplap ratnodgrathi tottariyam Garment Types 393

UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS bamkyinie kippe-sole párasol sombrinha chapeau de sol barraca kitsol parasol à canne Sonnenschirm Beatrice parasol kittasol parasole tātēn dībabō bee chaha’ohí kittasole parasolka telescope parasol cái kittesaw parasol-whip tyrasol chapeo kittisal port manteau sunshade umbrela chatta kittsol quitasol umbrella chattra kittysol quitta soll usan en tout cas kittysoll quittesol yangsan fa‘amalu kitysol rom zonnenscherm fan parasol krambuno rondel fasgadan ombrelle roundel gamp pagoda parasol rundell grian-sgàil pakjwiu san Schirm grian-sgàilean paraplu sgàilean-uisge ketesal parapluie sgail-uisge kettysol parasol sombrinha

UNDERGARMENTS

Alexandra petticoat brassiere chènkù divorce corset alforje brayette chènqún dou dou all-in-one breost-lin chènyí drawers amazon corset breost-rocc cingulum dress improver amplificateur Brummel bodice cintaliga drum farthingale anacholus bum-barrel combinations empire jupon anágua bustehouder considerations empress petticoat áo lót bustier cork rump enagua áo lót mình cache corset corps piqué enagua de lana áo nit caderas postizas corse English farthingale áo njt cage corset envelope combination apodesme cage Americaine corset waist espartilho de senhora Apollo corset cage empire còta faja-calzón avagraha caleçons cóta coirí falda combinación bajera calzon bombacho còta-ban faldia balmoral calzoncillo còta-bhioran faldrilla balmoral petticoat camibockers còta-cathdath false hips bandeau camicia da donna còtan fan hoop bandleg brief cami-knickers criardes fardegalijn banyan camiseta crinoletta farthingale basque belt camiseta con mangas crinolette foot-mantle basquine cortas crinolette petticoat friponne bell hoop camisola crinolina fústa berundjuk camisole crinoline fuste bidang candataka cue de Paris gegendas bielizna Catherine wheel farthin- cul de crin gipon bishop gale cul de Paris gomlek bodies, pair of ceroulas cul postiche gordel body stichet chalanika Cumberland corset gördel body-stychet chandataka cupola coat gorset bosom friends chemiloon cushionet gougandine brasserole chemise Directoire knickers gourgandine 394 Appendix A guard-infanta ktef petticoat bodice strophium guepiere kurta placket strossers gueridons lencería poches suk’oot’u guimpe Liberty bodice Portuguese farthingale susoyoke Gürtel lodier praghata suspensor atletico hadajuban luhinga pratidhi swanbill corset halka majtki pratinivasana tambour hànbèixin mamillare pregnant stay tango corset han-jubon Matinee skirt princess petticoat Taxíria hànshan may-ô princess slip teddies hiyoku Merry Widow Quaker skirt teddy-bears hoepelrok mesofori quan con áo-cánh tilter hoop petticoat modeste quàn xà-lón tontillo horsehair petticoat mu‘u mu‘u quilted petticoat tournure iç tuman naajuban rawai traquenard Italian farthingale naeui refafo tsaxínia Jaeger underclothes naewang religious petticoat üçetek jahanaroho naga-juban ribbon corset ukunchina jansenistes naizhào riding hoop ulkhaulik juban nèiyi rubas undaweya jube night corset ruzhào underhandkerchief jubon nitambavastra saiat under-serc jupe nivi sansflectum crinoline undervest jupel ondergoed scabilonians unkelai kaliki onderzieltje scavilones unkucha kaliki waiu ondina crinoline secrete Unterrock kamis palema‘i shakefold vasquine kanchli panier a coudes smock petticoat verdingale katasárci paniers a bourelets sogot verdugado kedelys paniers anglais sokch’ima vertugadin kinderbroekje pannier crinoline sokot vertugadin francais kolaristó panniers sostén Victoria cage korsaza pantalettes sottana waist cincher korset panty corselette sottogonna wandabo Korsett papa Spanish farthingale wheel farthingale koshimaki pendej staighinean wyliecoat kósula peplum jupon strapontin xi-líp koszula damska pettibockers strophion xu-chiêng

VESTS albagcā chanbagala dzákos ilic American vest chao gua firmla jaleco antery ch’aokua French opening vest jaque áo gi-lê chemisette French vest jelek bei xin choggi gabā jockey waistcoat benjy chokki geamantan kamiselka bondita chupa ghlila kamizelka booie sum colera gi-lê kamizóla borstrok colête gilet-veste kamzol brustfleck corpiño golf vest kanjian bústos cotorina griza kápa camiciuola daku guzjók keptar camisole drapi hsia-pei kersetka chaleco dulamás hussar point kiklikas Garment Types 395 kisibao peiteag sidari váll klistó jiléci pieptar sidriyeh veston lájbi pieptarita sigouni Wams le gilet rational straight waistcoat Weste lecric salt-box pocket tao ‘ofu zubun liang dang sart tattersall vest mejrevaló Shakespere vest uiose Newmarket vest shawl waistcoat university vest

Appendix B:Chapter Garments Title by Country

ABYSSINIA abougedid kaldoh chamma matab hamarti

AFGHANISTAN boorka kupasi burqa loongee chadri qadifeh chapan tom-bons cheo ulkhaulik kubba

ALGERIA

Bazna gandurah çârma ghlîla djubba haik gandoora jaseran gandoura tagilmus

ANDAMAN ASLANDS bôd-da

ANNAM cai-ao caiquan

ARABIA al-aqrāq al-zarrariyya bulgha anbijāniyya burnous aqrāq burqu‘ ashrafī chechia badan ghutra

397 398 Appendix B hezaam musaftaj jubba musayyar keffieh musha‘‘ara khirqa qabā kuffieh qalansuwa kufiyeh qalasuva mandīl qamīs mantaqa rafraf marlota rān mayāthir humr ridā mighfar safsarī mindīl sharbūsh mintaqa tailasân miqna’ tāj miqna‘a takhfīfa mi’zar tarboosh mizz thawb mudhahhab tikka mulabbada

ARGENTINA chiripá faja chubut wool

ARMENIA bambak

AUSTRALIA

Adelaide wool paarengarenga Australian wool panaena awarua papari bluey pare hana piupiu huru kurii plimsoll ihupuni pootae taua kahu huruhuru puuahi kahu kaakaapoo taahuka kahu kekeno taapahu kahu kiwi taapeka kahu kura taatara kahu kuri taatua hume kahu toi taawakawaka kahu waero takitaki kangaroo leather tara koopuu taratara kopa tiki mai muka toopuni ngore toorua ngore paheke tuu hangaroa paakee tuu kaaretu paakee nui tuu maro paakee tikumu tuu muka paaraerae tuu ure Garments by Country 399 whanake whiitiki

AUSTRIA blaukappe haiduk brustfleck juppo dentelle Angleterre lederhosen fazzelkappe scheibenbart festracht spitzkappe fürtuchsklemmer Tierfibeln gamsbart tracht goller wasserfall haftel

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE

à la jardiniere dolman corsage à la vierge mente csakora cut parta csizma wickler diszmagyar

BALI geringsing kamben kain prada lamak

BALKANS opanky poculica peca rubina

BANGLADESH riha BELGIUM

Bruges lace point de gaze Brussels lace Rosaline kant treille klosant Ypres lace Point de Fée

BOHEMIA kaiser-rock sweater

BOLIVIA ahuasca awayu ahuayo aymilla ajsu bandera aksu bayeta alforja boliviano almilla brillantes awakipa calcheña llijlla 400 Appendix B cañari montera capacho mullutuma ccahua p’anta ccahuas panti challapata phicchi ch’aska phullu chimi pillu chola derby pollera chucu ponchito chullo poncho boliviano ch’ullu p’ullu chumpi q’alaq’awa ch’uspa q’epirina cumbi rebozo hiscu ribete huaka sacapallay huallas sacha pullki huallquepo señor huayaca señora llijlla inti señore isallo siki iscayo simpa istalla suculla ccahua juk’ullu t’ikita khallus tocapu killa troqilla k’inkus ttisnu kunka unku tullmas k’uyu ufanta listado ujuta listao ponch unkhuña llacota unku llakolla uraq-awa lliclla urku llijlla wajrapallay lliklla w’aka lloq’e wasa loraypu wincha luto yana luto poncho yareta manta yutu mantita

BORNEO a-a bidang anyam borak baju buchai bane burak ba’o barit chelum ba’o burur chilum ba’o rawir dadong bedong dangdong bekatapu dilak bedong bekengkang engkudu Garments by Country 401 gari marik gasieng pakan gasing pandin grunong petaa kain chelum pua kain engkudu pun alai kain mata rawai kalambi salapok kalambi ara sirat kanggan skelat karong sklat katapu sungkit kebat sunkit kelalin lambai suriek kengkang surik klapong sirat takai buriet kuning tanggi labang tanggok labong ubong lelingkok ubong mata let ulub lilit ungkoi marau

BOSNIA bakar okovratnik bluza platno boje pregaca crn puljka crnac Pumphose dorina sako dugme sljem farba snala kapa stof kecelja tasna kopa tkanina materija ukrasavanje narukvica vez obuca zersej odjeca zubun

BRAZIL bahia sheeting Dom pedro

BULGARIA abgar ciupag beli potouri dimii belodreshnik diz benevretsi dolaktanka birnetsi dolama burchanka doramché byala houta dulboka pazva chernodreshnik elek 402 Appendix B eminii opinak geamantan opinki glouhché páfti houta peshkir ilic podkapnik jaka poes jube postavu kaitsa poturi kalets poyas kaltsi prevez kaltsouni pristelca klashnik purki kolitsa razsouchal koprina riza korenka roucha koshoulya shamiya kozhoushé soukno kurligatka stupa kusak sukmán kutsani gashti tkanitsa leiber tsarvouli mrezhera prestilka tsepen na krilo Tukanitsa nagrudnik vulnenik okrel zaveska opas

BURMA ainyi tamein khamout tubbeck longyi

CAMBODIA hol sampot CAMEROON leppi ndop

CANADA Chilkat blankets toque cowichan sweater tuque siwash sweater

CAUCASUS arkhalukh cherkeska burka

CELEBES baju bodo lipa bannang fuya lipa garrusu kain bentenan maa’ lelesepun mawa’ Garments by Country 403 pinatikan poritutu roto

CEYLON bakou camboys baku comboy

CHILE chaman ichella charahuilla k’isas

CHINA

ái cangcang ao canghuáng autumn tea brown caoxié bai na yi chai bai shou yi chai-chieh-p’ai bai tong cháng báibù chang fu báisè chang guan baishan chang shan baize chángkù balílà chángpáo ban hi chángshan banzhi chàngtongwà bao tou ch’ao fu báosha zhiwù chao guan bei xin chao pao bei ze chao gua bei zi ch’aokua beidài charwa bèifú chásè ben’àn chau fu bi xi chènbù biàn chéng biànxié chènkù biézhen chènqún bìji chènshan bìlán chènyí bìlù chi bìsha chi fu bó chìhèsè bow shoes chìhóng bù chong er bùbó chóu butterfly bun chóuduàn caichóu chu càiqing chuàn cang chuandài cangan chuanzhuó canganes chu-chu 404 Appendix B chunzhuang fangchóu chuo fanling congbái fàqia conglù fayi cool gown fei cubù fei yu cuìlù feihóng cumábù feisè cumáoyàng feng huang curling-cloud crown fengjìng curóugé fengmào cuzhi xianwéi fenhóng da dai fragrance on the surface of the soles dabao fragrant leaves dàchang fú dàguà fu ku dàhóng fu tou dai kou fuchou dàilù fuo daishi fúzhuang dalian gàn dancing phoenix bun gangkai dang gànqing danpiàn yanjìng gao dànqing gaogenxié danyi gaopí dàoguàjinzhong gaosù dengxinróng ge dai dian gen diaopí gold ingot bun dilun golden tea brown dou gongzhuangkù dou bo grape brown dou dou gu gu guan dou niu guà doudu gua pi mao doudoukur guanmiãn doulì gui yi doupeng gun douzi gun fu duàn gun mian duandàyi guo luo dai duantongxue haihúnshan duànwén hailìsi cuni duànzi hànbèixin eaglewood brown hànshan éhuáng haol er hè er dang héfú erhuán hei external high shoes hei jiao chou fa guan heiyanjìng fàjia hóng falánróng hóngyànyàn fanbù hòugen Garments by Country 405 hòujin limào hsia-pei líng hua yu ling tao huabù ling yue huádání lingjié huaduan lingjin huáibiao lingkòu huang ma qua lingzi huángcàncn lìsè hù’er long hui yi long pao hùmùjìng lotus flowers hunhuáng lotus seeds húsè lu ji fu luan ji guan lung p’ao jiakè ma gua jian ma xue jiàng mábù jiàngsè ma-coual jiàngzì mang ao jianzhang mang chu jiao dai mang pao jiaxié máobù jiaxue máogé jièzhi màokuir jin huang máolán jin xian guan máoliào jin zi máoyi jiu máozhipin ju màozi juàn mèi jue méihóngsè júhóng mian fu júhuáng mian guan kaijia miánbù kaishìmí miánkù kanjian miánmáokù k’o ssŭ miánmáoshan koo miánróng ku miányi ku zhe ming guang kai laliàn misè lan yu mòjing lasuor mòlù leung mo musk melon bun lì mwa kwa liàn naizhào liang dang nankeen liang dang kai nei tao liang mao nèiyi lianjiaokù ní liányiqún níróng lifú niukòu lily feet niupàn 406 Appendix B niúzaikù shoujuàn niuzi shui tian yi nízi shuilù off-the-horse bun shuìyi onion white brown sichóu ouhe sidài ousè sirghe pà siróng pale lilac brown sizhipin páo star-studded sky pàopàosha suoyi paoxié swallow-tail bangs páozi tacley pí ao tafuchóu pi bian tai-k’ou pi ling tai-shih p’i ling tàiyángjìng pijian tala piling talabanr pinlán t’ao t’ieh pinlù tàoshan pinyuè tàoxié píyi tàoxiù pou-fou taozi pu fu tí pu zi tì purple gown tian’éróng qi tian ze qi pao tianlán qian hua tianqing qiapàn tiao tuo qibù tiáoróng qigé tong xiu kai qilim tóu jim qinglù tou tu qiú tsan qún tuósè qúnzi wà ren wa leng mao róngbù wài tào róngkù wàiyi róngmiàngé wàizhào róngyi wàtào ròusè wàzi ru weeping willow bangs ruanduàn wéijin rubái wéiqún ruzhào wu bian shan ku wu guan shang wùla shao xi shen dai xia pei shen yi xian shiu tian yi xian yi shoubiao xiàngliàn Garments by Country 407 xiàngquàn yuyi xianhong yùzan xiao yao jin zan xie zhai zànglán xinghóng zàngqing xinghuáng zaohóng xiu shang zé xiùbiáo zha jia xiùkou zhaijiepai xiùzhang zhan xiùzi zhàopáo xueqing zhàoshán yan zhàoyi yang zhi zhe yangzhiyu zhe ji yanhóng zhéshàn yellow jacket zhi huan yín zhi sun ying long zhòu ying luo zhòubù yinggelù zhuanglián yùdài zhuhóng yuèbai zhùmá yulin baizhequn zhuó yumào zi yun jian zihóng yùsè zuan yusha zuòcán yuxié zuòsichóu

COLOMBIA ruana tumbaga

CZECHOSLOVAKIA bavlna kosile bota kotuly camara kozesina capka krajky cepice krejci cipky len death lace límec drahokam náhrdelnú halena náramek hedvábí nit’ jehla oblékati kabát obuv kalhoty odíti kapesník osatiti kapsa pantofel klenot pás klobouk plást knoflik plátno 408 Appendix B prsten spodky puncocha strevíc riza sukne rubas trailer thread lace saty vlno spendlík zástera spiders

DENMARK armbaand knipling Barcelona scarf kniplinger bœlte krave bomuld lemmetør klœde bukser linned dullemoese lœder filt lœrred flip lomme forklœde naal frakke pels halsbaand Schleswig lace Hamburg homespun sekernil handske silke hedbo embroidery skjorte hose sko hue skørt hvivklaede skrœdder joeb slør juvel sok kaabe støvle kamiks strømpe kappe tingmiak kapperoellike tøffel kasket tøi klœde tonder lace klœder traad knap uld

EAST INDIA assam cotton kalamkari beteele langooty cabeca luhinga chadoe nabob

ECUADOR alli churana bufanda anaku cachimira ascanta cadena bajera camisa chaki picada bayeta de lishtas camisa de la tela amarilla bolsicón candongas bozal caucho pargate Garments by Country 409 centro panzo de burro chaleco pepa de zapallo chalina pichu anaku changalli pichu jerga chompas piel de foca chulla cara pollera chumbi poncho amarrado chumbi banderilla poncho cuadrada cinta poncho jijún cruz churuku poncho rosado cuerpo puño debajero puntada limeña embozalada realce enagua rinrin wallka fachalina ruana fachalina de cabeza runa fachallina sábana festones sabanilla filete sarcillus frutilla shagshu zamarro gergueta shigra gualcas sikinchina hombrera sombreros de lana de lado de Ambato jatun chumbi suela jerga talonera jirga poncho tela caucho kampu anaku tira kwitsa pargates tira dorado larga tiu camisa lienzo tupu linchi tupullina pichu jerguita lista uchilla maki chumbi llano uku churana lliglla ukunchina macana ushuta maki ‘usut’a maki punta varedira maki watana wallka manilla wallkarina mantones de Manila walutu millma sumbriru wangu millma sumbru washa fachalina mullu washajatana ordinaria yana poncho pacotilla yura poncho pantalones cortos zammarros pañu sumbriru zarcillos pañuelo zhutu panutzutzu ukufachallina

EGYPT abayah assili cotton afef atef as bedla 410 Appendix B birda mezz boukrania mukla bulgha murabba bur’a’ nekhau burqa nekhaw byssus nemehef cahouk Nemes headdress calasiris nishra charoul pano deshret passium faraguja patna ferka pectoral futa postiche galabiyeh bi wist procardium ghatra pshente gilbah sabaa giná sacred uraeus haik royal salteh henna scarab heqat and nekhekh scaraboid herset Sekhemty Horus lock serekh jubba serouel jubbah sharb kalasiris sha-sha kepresh sheath dress khenmet shendot khepesh shenti khesbed shenu khimara shintiyan klaft shugga kohl sidari kornish sindon kuftan sirwall kyaphi stibium libas tarha mandil udju mefkat was and tam melas wedja melaya liff weret menat wesekh menyet

ETHIOPIA ačē attāmitō birawō ačē gumbō bofeta ačē kéčō čadu ačē saččō chamma ačō dima adaftō dudda argūbō eddimō attāmitō fota bayō garannō Garments by Country 411 geldem martō girri mekkō gošō ninnoko gurača qungo gurda sadeti gu’ut šanāfilō horrō šayō hukkō serret ilbora šohofa irbora sorō išānō šumbeqō kallača šumboqō kamis tātē ukō keččō tātēn dībabō koreddo tobe kurni waya maldā wāyāč attāmitō

FRANCE

à jour aiguillette à la Byron aile à la du Barry corsage aile de pigeon à la Farare ailette à la Figaro ajour à la Grecque corsage Albanian hat à la Louis XV corsage Alençon lace à la Maintenon alezan à la Marlborough alliance à la Napoleon allongé à la plaquette alloutienne à la Titus alpaga à la Victime alpargata à l’innocence reconnue amazone abaissé amigaut acajou amincir accollé amonieres sarrasinoises accroche-coeur amortir adoucir androsmane affiquet Angouleme bonnet agneau aplatir agneau du Tibet appas postiches agneau karakul araignée méditant un crime agnelin arc’henad Agnes Sorel style arc’henad-kambr agrafe ardoise agraffe argent agrandir Argentan lace agrements armes à l’épreuve agulhade armoisin aigrette armure cannelée aiguille arras aiguille a reprises Arras lace aiguille a tricoter arrêter 412 Appendix B arrondir bonnet à la laitiere astrakan bonnet à la moresque au globe fixé bonnet à la Richard aulmoniere bonnet à la victoire aumoniere bonnet aux trois ordres réunis aune bonnet de police aurifère bonnet demi-negligee autruche bonnet negligee Ave Maria lace bord aviver borrillonnées azur botez badine botte bague botte à genouillère baiseuse bottine baisser bouchons de carafe balagnie cloak bouclé balandran boucle d’oreille baleinage boucle d’oreille à la guillotine barboteuse bouffant mecanique barrette bouffette bas bouillion bas à cotes bouillioné bas à jour boulanger bas de laine bourbon hat bas de soie bourguignotte bas de soy bourse basque bourserie en lisse basque beret boutis bâti bouton batiste bouton d’or bavarel boutonnière beauvais embroidery bragou benoiton chains bragou-braz beret basque braguette beret de marin braoig Bernhardt mantle brassière bicoquet Brittany bigouden Brittany cloth bijou Brittany work bijouterie brocart bijoutier broche binette brodequin bizou broderie black lace broderie en blanc blaireau broderie en jais blanc broigne blanc haubert broz bleu brun blondes de Caen bure blousant burnouse bois de rose caban boisson cache-folies bonnes grâces cachelaid bonnet à flamme cachemire bonnet à la crete de coq cache-peigne Garments by Country 413 caen chapeau à l’italienne cage Americaine chapeau au bateau renversé cagoule chapeau claque California chapeau de Cardinal calque chapeau de paille camaieu chapeau d’homme cambresine chapeau jockei cambric chapeau mou camelot chapeau souple cancan dress chapeau-bras canepin chapel d’acier canezou chapel de Montauban canne chapel-de-fer canne à système charvet cannes demi-solde charvet et fils de Paris cannes-dard chasuble canotier châtain canvas chausettes cap à la Charlotte Corday chausse cape a l’espanole chausses en bourses capulet chausses larges à l’antique caraco à coqueluchon chausses semellees caraco à la francaise chaussette caraco à la polonaise chaussette montant carda chaussure carmagnole chaussures à cric carrez de gaze chaussures à pont-levis casaquin en juste chemise casimir chemise à la greque casque chemise à la Reine casque à la Tarleton chemise de nuit casque colonial chemise d’homme casquette chenille lace castor cheval de frise catiole cheveux de frise cavalry chevesaille cayenne cheviot cazavacka chèvre de Chine ceinture chèvre de Mongolie celeste chevreau châle chevrette chamarre chicoree chameau chinchilla chandail chou chape à aige chou hat chapeau chouquette chapeau à la Basile civette chapeau à la Ceres cloche de feutre chapeau à la Charlotte cloqué chapeau à la Cherubin cocarde chapeau à la Colonne coeffes chapeau à la Devonshire coiffe chapeau à la Grenade coiffure à la conseillere chapeau à la turque coiffure à la Dauphine chapeau à l’egyptienne coiffure à la enfant 414 Appendix B coiffure à la Eurydice couleur-de-roi coiffure à la Flore countenances coiffure à la Junon coureur coiffure à la Ninon couronne coiffure à la qu’ es aco courreges coiffure à la Reine courtepy coiffure à l’Agnes Sorel courtepye coiffure à l’anglomane couvre-chef coiffure à l’indisposition couvrechef coiffure au chien couchant couvre-oreille coiffure en bouffons cramoisi coiffure en cadenettes crapaud coiffure en chien couchant crapaud mort d’amour coiffure en moulin à vent crapaud saisi coiffure en parterre galant cravate coiffure en raquette cravate à la Bergami coiffure Eugenie cravate cocodes coiffure Louis Trieze cravate de bureaucrate coin de feu cravate mathematique cointise crêpe col crepelle colberteen crepon milleraye colbertine crepon Persian collerette creve-coeur collet creves collet monte crinoline collier cuir colmar cuir-bouilli comperes culot conch culotte conque culotte courte coq cuoroncou coque damas coquelicot damassé coqueluche dandine coquillage dankalie coquille dantelez corbeau de frivolité cordeliere décolletage cordon de soulier defrise cordouan deguisement cornette demi-castor cornette à la Diane demiceint corp a baleine demi-converti corps piqué demijambe corsage demi-mousseline corsage à la Maintenon demi-tablier corsage en corset demi-tunique costume à la Constitution dentelle aux fuseaux costume au grand Figaro dentelle de Cambrai cote à armer dentelle de fils cote de Cheval dentelle de la vierge coton dentelle renaissance cotte d’armes dessous cottereau deuil Garments by Country 415 devantiere épingle diamanté épingle à chevaux diaraogenn epomine Dieppe point lace escarelle dillad esclavage donariere espèce d’ouvrage à jour dossière esprits doublure estaches doublure du chapeau etamine broché douillette étoffe douillette à la Russienne étoffe écossaise drap étole drap d’Alma etui drap d’Argent faconné drap de Berry faille drap de billard fausse montre drap de France fautre drap de Paris favoris drap de velours feltr drap de Venice ferroniere drap d’ete feur drap d’or feutre drap feutre fichu la Valiere drap fourreau fichu menteur ecaille work fichu raphael écarlate fichu-canezou echancre fichu-pelerine echarpe fil echelle fil tiré echelon filé ecossais fitchet ecrouellique fleur de lis ecureuil fleur de lys effronter fleur volant elegant florence eleganté flounce à disposition emeraude follette en beret fond en coeur fond à la marriage en colimaçon fond clair en coulisse fontanges en echelle de Jacob Fortuny tea gown en fourreau lace fouine en manche foulard poile de chevre en platitude foulé en pouf foulinenn en pouf à la Luxembourg fouriaux en ravanche fourisseur d’arme en tablier fourrure engageantes frac enjoueé fraise enseigne frangipani perfume entre-deux freiseau epaules Americaines frileuse epauliere frise 416 Appendix B frisé gypciere frivolité habiller frizé habit de demi-gala froissé habit degage froncés habit d’escalier frontiere habit noir fuseau habits fustaine haincelin galante harris galants hat à la reine galoche haubergeon galon d’argent haubert à maille double galon d’or haubert clavey de double maille gant haubert doublier gants de chevreau haut de forme garçon d’honneur haute couture gazar havane gaze à bouquets herigaute gaze de fantaisie hermine gilet heron gilet-veste heume gipciere heuz gipser Hombourg girdle à la victime hongreline gland horloger gloan houppe glouton houppelande à mi-jambe god housse godell huke gorge à la Gabrielle d’Estrees huque gorge de pigeon indienne gougandine Jan de Bry coat gouriz jaquette gousset jaquette coloriée gouzougenn jardiniere gown à la turque jarretelle gown à l‘insurgente jarretiere grand habit de cour jaune grande pelisse d’hiver joaillerie grande robe à corps ouvert joaillier grege jonc gregues joyau grillé jupe grisaille jupen gros drap jupon gros vilain vert juste au cou grosgrain kalabousenn guêtre karabousenn guingan kemener guipure arabe kornek guirlande kotoñs guiterre krez gwel laine gwiska lapin gwiskamant lavende Garments by Country 417 lavreg navette léopard neud ler noeuds lièn noeuds d’amour ligne empire noir Lille à fond clair nozelenn lin nutria linge ocelot linon ocre lionceau olivâtre loer ombrelle longotte opossum lostenn oreilles de chien loup organdi loutre oriellettes loutre de Sibérie orris luciole ourlet-bord maheutres pactole mahoîtres paillasson mailles carées paille makhila paille de riz manche paille d’italie manche à gigot paillette manchette de cour paletot maneg paletot-sac manege averte panache manteau panache blanc mantelet au lever de l’aurore panache de coque mantell panseronpanses mariage pantalon marinière pantalon de travial marmotte panthère marseilles pantouflenn Marseilles embroidery parapluie martre parasol à canne martre zibeline pardessus redingote matelassé parfait-contentement Mazarin hood parure Medici lace passe-filon mezail passementier mezer passementier-boutonnier minijupe passements mirliton peau d’agneau mitaine peau d’ange moisson peau de cygne monté la haute peau de daim mouche peau de soie mouched peigné mouchoir peigne Josephine mouchouer peignoir mousquetaire peinture à l’aiguille mousseline pelerine mousseline de laine pelicon mousseline de soie peluche nadoz peluche a poils 418 Appendix B peluche de soie point plat pennbazh point Turc perches poire perruque quarrée poitrel petals Marguerite poitrine pet-en-l’air polonaise a deux fins petit bord pomme d’ambre petit point pomme de pin petit velours pomme de senteur petite robe unie pompadour duchesse petit-gris pompadour heel petits bonhommes pompadour pardessus peupliere Poney phoque portemonnaie pierrot pou-de-soie pince poufs au sentiment piquet poulaines piquets poult de soir pizane poult-de-soie pliage pourpre pliage en pointe poussière de Paris pliage en triangle poussin lace plissé prêt-à-porter plume prune de Monsieur plume d’autruche putois plume de coq quintise plume de faisan ras plumes fantaisies ras de Sicile poche rat musqué poches ratine pochette raton laveur poignée redingote poil de castor redingote à l’amazone poile de chevre redingote en Backmann point à la vierge relevés à la Marie Stuart point à l’aiguille rempli point à reseau renard point Colbert renforceé point coupé rep bluet point d’Alençon reseau point d’Angleterre lace réseau rosacé point de Bayeaux resille point de cordonnet rhodophane point de croix rivière point de feston roanes point de France robe à la circassienne point de Hongroie robe à la française point de raccroc robe à la Joconde point de rose robe à la levantine point de sedan robe à la Reine point de tige robe à la Turque point de toile robe à l’américaine point d’Espagne robe à l’anglais point noué robe à plis gironnés point passé robe de cérémonie à la française Garments by Country 419 robe de chambre soulier robe de commune at ancienne guise souris éffrayée robe de noce soutane robe de nuit spilenn robe de style sugar-loaf bonnet robe déguisée suppléants robe du soir surpied robe gironnée surplis robe longue tablier robe parée taffeta lustré robe princesse taffetas robe torque tailleur robes de fantaisie tapisserie robes en calecon tapisserie de broderie rochet tapisserie de petit point roquet taupe Rose de parnasse tavancher rosette terre de Pologne rosille de soie terre d’Egypte rotonde testière rouge tête de mouton rouleaux tiretaine roussâtre tissu ruban tissu satiné ruban d’amour tissutier-rubanier ruché toile sablé toile à gros poil sabretache toile cirée sack gown toile de lin salopette toile de religieuse sandale toile grossière sandals à la greque toile peinte sans-culottes toise mouvante santon tok satin toque à la Basile satin chinois toque à la Grande Pretesse satin liberty toque à la Susanne satin velouté toque à l’Iphigénie sautoir toque de fourrure savate tour de cheveux scarabee touret de nez seersucker tresse seiz trimming à la greque serge tro-c’houzoug sergia trollopée serpentaux trousseau serre-tête trou-trou singe trovrec’h soie tulle soieries bizarres tunic à la juive solette tunic à la mameluck sommiere tunic à la Romaine sorti tunique sortie tunique à la Juive soulette turban bonnet 420 Appendix B turban-diademe vétements velour de coton vigogne velours visagière velours de coton croisé visité velours Grégoire vison vergette à la chinoise voile vert voile de laine veste volcan vêtement à la Créole zibeline

GERMANY

Affe Breitschwantz Affenpeltz Brokat Ajorstick Bruch almain coat Brunswick Alpaka Brunswick cloth Armband Bruoch Ärmel Brustharnisch Ärmelaufschlag bruststück Armspange bunte Sportjacke Astrakan buntes Kopftuch Atlas Cavalry Aufschlag Cerevis Augsburg checks Cheviot Ausstattung chevron de laine Azetat Chinaseide Balz Chinaziege Banddurchzug Chinchilla Bär Chorhemd Barchent chorrock Barett circas barthaube Covercoat Batist Dachs Battist Damast Baumwolle Damhirschfell Baumwollsamt Danakillisches Böcklein Belliz dilge Beringt Drapé Berlins dreieckige Faltung Biber Dreispitz Biberhaar Dresden point lace biedermeier dunkelblau Bisamratte Edelmarder bishop’s mantle Eichhörnchen blau Eisenkappe Blumenkränzchen Fadam Blusig Faden Boi Falbel Borte Fane Bouc Fasanerfeder Boug Fausthandschuh boumwolle Faustling braun Feder Garments by Country 421

Feh heerpauke Fettschwanzschaf hellviolet Feuerwiesel Hemd Filz Hemde Filzglocke Hemidi Filztuch Hentzen Flachs Hermelin Flahs Heroldsrock Fleckenskunk Herrenhut Flehtan heuke flieder himmelblau Flitter Hosa Florentinerhut Hosen Fries Hosenrock Fuchs hūba Fuchsie hulle Futter Huot Fütterung Hut gansbauch Hutband Gaze Hutfutter geknauften kogeln Hutkopf gelb inderlins Geschützlafette Indigoblau gestaltrock Juchten Gimma Jugendstil satin gimme Juwel Gingang Kambrik giwāti Kamelhaar glocken Kamfhandschuhe Gollier Kanin Grain kanonenstiefel grau Kapuze grober Wollstoff Kardiert grobes Wollzeug karmesin Guanako karminrot gugel Kaschmir Gürtel kastanienbraun Gurtil Kattūn Haarnadel kittel Hachul Klapphut Hahnenfeder kleiden Halsband kleider Halsbinde Kleiderrock Halsbouc kleidunge Halsboug kleinōt Halsgolt kleit halshemd klöppel Halstuch Knickebockers Handschuh Kniehosen Hantschuoch Kniestrümpfe Hantscuoh Knopf Har Knopfloch harris tweed Knopflochblume Hasenhaar kohlschwartz haube Kokarde 422 Appendix B

Kolinsky nādela Kopftuch nādele Korsett Nadelspitze Krage Nerz Kragen Nestel Kräuseln Nestila Kravatte Netzstickerei Krawatte nussbraun Krempe Ohrring Krepp olivenfarbig Kreuzstich Opossum Krinoline orangegelb Kürass Organdin Kurze hose organza Lachen osnaburg Laibli Overall Lamm Ozelot Lange hose Panther lapa Pantoffel Lapin Panzer Lätzchen parricides Leder pechschwartz ledersen Pelliz Leibchen Pelz leibi Persianer Lein Petit-gris Leinen pickelhaube Leinwand Pikee lendener Platner Leopard plissiert Lintrock pluderhose Litze Prinzesskleid Lochstickerei Puffärmel Luchs puffjacke malvenfarbig Pullover Mantal Pulswärmer Mantel Pumphose Marabu purpurfarben Marder purpurrot Matrosenanzug reitrocke Maulwurf rennrocklein Mauwiesel riese melone ritterhute Menni Roc Messgewand Rock Messrock Rohseide Minirock Ross Moiréseide rot Mönchskappe Rüschen Mongolia Rüstung Murmeltier Samt mütze Samt gerippt Nachtgewand Sandale Nachthemd Satin Nadel Saum Garments by Country 423

Schafpelz Steppnaht Schaller Stickereiapplikation schappel Stiefel schecke Stiefelette scheckenrock Stielstich Scheitelstuck Stiful Schiffchenspitze Stival schir stof Schirm Stoffhut Schlafanzug Strampelhose Schlafenzug Straussfeder Schlapp Hut Strohhut Schleier Strumpf Schleife Strumpfhalter Schlips Strumpfhosen Schneider Taft Schnupftuch tappert Schnurrstich Tasche Schornsteinkappe Taschentuch Schottenröckchen Tibetisches Lamm Schottenstoff Träger Schrōtœre trappers Schuh trapphant Schuoch Traue Schürtze Trauring Schürze Tresse Schurze Trikot Schutzhelm Troddelchen schwartz Tropenhelm scrōtari Tuch Scuoh tunika Seehund Tuoch Seide Tuoh sendelbinde Überschuh serih Unterrock sīda Vadem Sīde Vatermörder siglat Venediger Spitze silecho Vermummung silesia Vielfraß Sleier vierspitzige Faltung Sloier Vigogne smaragdfarben Vilz smaragdgrün Vlahs Socke Wachstuch Sonnenschirm wammes sorket Wams Spazierstock wappenrock spenel Waschbär Spinula wāt Spitze wāten staubfarbig Weicher Hut Stecknadel Weisstickerei stecknōlde Wendelring Steinmarder werien 424 Appendix B

Weste Ziertaschentuch Windhaube Zobel woeten Zopfzeit Wolla Zwickel Wolle Zylinder

GHANA adaabo fugu adinkra cloth fututam adjagba beads fuubu akambo hyire akwaba doll kente cloth asinan kobene atataakoro kobene cloth awondwa kokoo batakari kuntunkuni birisi kwasida adinkera birisii nsaduaso cifatten okana fufuo tuutum

GREECE adzalotí brissimi ajári brumánika ákna bubúces aladzás búles alaménes bulla álises búloma amalia bústos anterí buzáña arápis caissia arfanítica capash asimojórdano carabitina áspri causia asprocéndi ceryphalos bála cestus barbúli chiton baréza chlaine béla chlamus béledzik chlamydon bersáña chlamys betúnici chloene béza coccum bezelitsa cordoni bibíla cothurnes bibizári Crete lace bidémña diphtera birbíla diplax bolia diploidion brezekouki djéli brezikúci doric chiton Garments by Country 425 dríli kamizóla dulamás kápa dulápi kapitsáli dulbén kaplamás dzákos karfitsa exomia kasináci exomide katasárci facóli kátça fandaráca katifés faxiolion kato manikia félpa kaváði filati kazázis fitili klídja flokati klimatáca flóra klistó jiléci fóci klonári foundi kna frúta kólan fterotó kolaristó fukás kolobium fúndes kolobus fúndi kolonáto fúndítses kolpos fústa kombologion fustanéles kondó fustanella kopseró fúta kósula gólfi kremezi griza krósça gurgurlya krupáca guzjók kselitsi himation ksoulia ibrisimidzís kyne Ionic chiton lacerna itsembéri lamouxa jeléci lazouri jíros lazúrja jordáni linon jortiní fortescá logia júrda lustríña kabrí maístra káçes mandiléño kadémi mandili kakorízika manicísco kalathaki manikéttia kalíca mesofori kalikia messaria kalimáfkia méstia kalómala misofori kalpáki monétra kaltsá náplitsi kaltsoskúti nificí forescá kaltsovelónes nimbus kambánes olojémiti 426 Appendix B páfti sigúni paison siniki panaúla skúña Panovraki soccus papanaky soco pasoúmia socq patatúka sphendome patúnes stephane peplos stephanie peplos chiton stithópano perizoma strophion petasos strophium petassos súfres petasus syrma petroméni taenia pharos Taxíria phrygian bonnet tebenna pilos tellex piryiellya theke pistres tholia pliakthi trahilia podhiá tribon pójas tsangiá porfira tsaxínia pósta tselévo pothia tsemberi poukamiso tsípes pounghí tsitseróña poustomániko tsupári poutouri tsupráci pristídha tsurápe próstena tzakos ráli vachóris rizá velonísça rizarato vézane rutí vitses saccus vraka sajás vulotó sakkos yiordani sandalium yunatárja sayiaki záyres scamato zona scépa zoni seïméniko zoster sigouni

GREENLAND amant bearskin pants

GUATEMALA algodón anaku alpargata ascanta Garments by Country 427 aswashka lana atole lanzadera awana lejfa azul llautu balones lustrina banco luto huipil baño reservado mama chumbi batz manilla bayeta manta blanco maxtli blusa medias caite merino calum labrada millma sumbru calzón morado camisa morga camiseta ñañaca capisayo ñañaka capixaij nima-pot capixay palito capote pana cardador paño chachal pantalones rajados chaquira pasamanos chuku perla chumbi perraje ch’úspa perreje o tapado codiarte piedra de añil colorado ponchito corte poncho tiñiska cot poncho tintoridao cuenta pot cumbe puka cumbe camentera randa cuyuscate raxete desborrador rebozo envuelto redil espuelas refajo envuelto espuma refajos fachalina refajos plegados faja rodillera gabán ruwana gavacha sábana guashmi sandalias hilador sarta hilar seda huipil seda floja huso sedalina ixcaco shimba jaspé sobre pantalón jaspeado sobrepantalón rajado jiquilite sortixa kálluwa soyacal kapishay suyacal killu taffetán kushma taffetane 428 Appendix B tapiz tocoyales tejedor turno tejer tzut tejido tzute telar de otale tzutes teñir urdimbre terciopelo vindi tinaku azul walka tiñiska wara tinte wawa chumbi tintoriado yakulla tinturar zuyacal tinturero

HAUSA alkilla zelluuami da-n-katanga zenne fessagida zenne alffowa godo

HEBREW arba kanphoth sarbal kittel tallith kraspeda tallith katan oya tephillin peoth tsithsith

HOLLAND acetaat beurs agaat blauw akertjes blauwe duffel albe boershabijt amethist bokshandschoen armband bont azuren borduurwol azuur borst babysokje borstplaat badstof borstrok bakkebaarden bortspeld balein bouwen band bragoenen baret bril barras broche batist broek bead lace broekrok bedelarmband brokaat bedrukt katoen bruin bedrukte katoenen stof buis beenwindsel bukskin beuk bustehouder Garments by Country 429 camee halsketting clock-mutch halslijn collier halsneusdoek coltrui halssieraad damast halssnoer dameslarrje handboei damesmantel handschoen das hansworst degenkoppel haren stof degenstok hemd dekmantel hemelsblauw donkerblauw hermelijn dop hertevel draad hoed dreumelthoelje hoedeband duikerpak hoepelrok dunne ochtendjas hofkledij Dutch cap hoge hoed een broek hoge laars fardegalijn hoge toneelschoen fijne hoge zijden fijne punt Holland cloth floddermuts hoofdband fluweel hoofddoek foulard hoofdtooi fries houtje-touwtje-jas frontje huif fustein ijzergrauw gaas Italiaans stro galon japon gebauw jas gebreid of geweven ondergoed jaspand gebreid vest jekkertje gebreide muts juk geel juweel geer juwelen geklede jas kaap gesteven overhemb kaasdoek gestreepte of geruite katoenen stof kaki gitzwart kalotje glazendoek kamerjas gordel kant goud kap goudbruin kapsel gouden karmijn granaat karmozijnrood grijs kasacken grijs blauw kasjmier groen kastanjebruin grof weefsel katoen gymschoentjes katoenfluweel haakwerk kersrood haarspeld kiel halsboord kinderbroekje halsdoek kinderschort 430 Appendix B kleeden minirok kleederen mocassin kleedermaker moesje kleeding molton kleinood monnikskap kletje monty-coat klier mouw klompen mutsje klos naald knevel naaldhak kniebroek nachtjapon knijpbril nachttabbaert knipmuts namaakbusten knol neerstick knoop nestel knoopsgat neteldoek knop ochtendjas knopehaak omslagdoekje kobaltblauw ondergoed kolder onderriem koorhemd onderzieltje kopplak onechte juwelen korset ongebleekte Chinese zijde kort wollen jasje oogschaduw korte oogscherm korte pruik opperkleed kostbaarheden oranje kostuum ouderwetse vrouwemuts kous overhemb kraag overschoen kroplap paardestaart krul paars krulletje paklinnen kuitbroek pandjesjas kuras pantoffel laars pantserhandschoen laken paraplu leder parel lelieblank perzikbloesemkleurig lichtbruin pet lightgroen pijjekker lijf plooi lijfje pofbroek lijnwaad poffer lila popeline linnen portefraes lint pruik losse japon purper lovertje purpuren manchester regenjas manchetknoop ribfluweel mantel rijnsteen mantille ringetje marineblauw ritssluiting merinos robijn Garments by Country 431 rok tabbaard roklengte tabbaert rood tabberd roodbruin tabijn rooskleurig tafzijde rozenkrans tas van de Hooglanders ruiterrock tochtlatten sabeldier toer saffier toneelkijker sandaal toog satijn tropenhelm satinet trouwring schapevel tuichje scharlaken tuithoed scheenplaten tulband schoen tule schoenveter tunica schort tuniek schorteband uilebril Schotse baret vilt Schotse Hooglanders visscherspij Schotse muts vlas Schotse omslagdoek vlieger schoudermantel voering schoudertas voorschoot schuifspeldje wambuis shoen wandelcostuum siglatoen wandelstok sits want sjaal wapenrusting sjako wasdoek slaapmuts wentke slabbetje werkbroek of overall van stevig katoen slobkousen werkpak sluier wijde kniebroek smaragd wit snor witte sok wol sokophouder wollen goederen soort bergkristal wollen mousseline soort rijbroek wollen stof sortie zak spang zakdoek speld zakkengoed sportcolbert zakkenlinnen sportjasje zalmkleurig sportpantalon zeemleer steutelreecx zegelring stevige schoen zelfkant stijf linnen zijde stippels zijden japon of toga stola zoeaaf strandschoenen zonder schouderbandjes strokleurig zonnebril superplie zonnebruin 432 Appendix B zonnenscherm zwarte zwanedons zwempak zwart

HUNGARY aba-posztó kodmen aratóbocskor ködmön attila kopeniak azur köpönyeg bagazia koteny bekecs kötö bikla kozsók bocskor kurti bögatya kusljak bogazie laggosszaru csizma bujka lajbi bunda mejrevalo cepök mellrevaló chepeneag musui cifraszür muszuj condra nyakas szür csepesz pamutos vaszón csispkèsköttö pántlikaskökö cuha párta daku pendely darázsolás priccses nadrág daróc puhaszárú csizma derekas ing rékli dulándle rokk epingeaua sakma félkabát saru füdzö shajak gallér-szür siguni gatya skrlet gatyamadzag suba guba sukno guna surc gunia süveg gunoberonicia szük gatya gyolcs szür gyolocsfersling szür-kabát gyöngyös bokréta szürke haiduk tshapan haraszt tshoga harisnya tuszo hondorgo váll Hungarian embroidery vastagkabát imurluc virágozás ipingea xhurdine ipingeaua xhyrdin karazsia zeke keményszárú csizma zsáknadrág kepen’ zywr kepenek Garments by Country 433

IBIBIO okuru

IBO asisa okara egeni bitte onuga

ICELAND hringofinn serkr Iceland wool hufá skinnsaum hupé

INDIA aaca alaballee aal alaka aar ālamgīrī ‘abā ālamjarī ábbasi Alampasand abe alankara ab-i-hawa albagcā ab-i-rawan albangala Abocchnai alcah abrasam alchah achchhadanaka alfi achkan alkhalak ackhan alkhaliq adai alleja adana alliballi adati allieballie addhacina ambara adhivasa ambari adhivikartana ambohai adhotari ammana adhranga amsuka afshan amsu-patta agala amsuyam agihila amuva agun-pat sari anahata ahaddha anga ahata tantrika angada ahinvala angarkha ajarakh angarkhi ajina angavastra ajina yajnopavita angi akalpa angia akathorasbhagarvakomala angrakhâs akhi laj angulia aksun anguliya al anguliyaka 434 Appendix B anguri bakhrama angūthī balaba anhaho bālābandī antaravasaka bali antariya baluchar apavartaka bana aprapadina banafsai arak-chin banat araluck band-gale-kā-coat ardhaguchchha bandhana-krtsna ardhamanavaka bandhani ardhi laj bandhej ardhoruka bandi arghwani bāndiā angarkhā arhi bandvai gujarati ari Bangalore cap arokah bangle arsi banyan ashasana barani asli barasi asmani bard asparsanumeya bari astar barjura ata barros miudas atka bashlyk ati bāzūband atlas bearams atlas khasu beatelle atlas silk beattillia atshi bebedi aupakaksiki beiramee aupakasaki bengal aurna bengal stripes ava cotton beram avaghataka beronis avagraha betteela avagunthana beur avasakthika bhaga avika bhagawān badami bhagela badan bhairnavasani badara Bhayyā-cap badhani bhrameraka badiyān bihari badshah pasand bili javali bafta bina bagalbandi bindi bagh birinji bahirivasani bokani bahu bolgar bairam boloya bairami bordāra pyjamā baizi borgal baju boteh baka Buddun khas Garments by Country 435 bukhani chana-chani bulbulchasm chanbagala bulgar chandarvo bulgara cira chandataka bulger chandlo bulghar chandtara bullgarry chaniyo bundi channavira buta chapkan buti chappals butti charan dharan byatilha charanalankara byramee charka byrampaut charkha byrams chatta byramy chattra cādar chāubwalī jootī cakresvari chaugoshia calanaka chauri calani chela calanika cherryderry calavia chhint camacaa chicken camall chickenwalla cambaia chicon cambali chikan cambay chillo cambaye chimphullani cambja china cola cambolim china patta camlee chinacholaka cammaka chite cammakara chitika cammocca chitragupita camoca choga camocato choggā candakanta cholaka candanhār cholana candataka choli candramā chope carana chorni carmakt chuda catto chudamani catula chuddah caubagalā chuddar cchipas chudder cela chuga chadidāra sādi chugha chaila chunadi chakva chir chunari chakvidar chundadi chalana chunnat chalanika chupkun chamelia churna-kuntala champai churridah 436 Appendix B chutki devadusa cihrai devagiru cillāwālī devanga cina devanga-cira cinamsuka dhablo cini dhammilia cīra dhanak citra-kapardaka dhanush citravastra dhardi cittalam dharmasastra coda dhautakanseya cogā dhautapatta cokar dhautavata cola dhile paenche colaka dhota-patta coli dhotar comboy dhotara comley dhotee coramo dhoti coranā dhumani corano dhumarai corso dibahae cin cossas didjee cowbandi dilbahar cudamani dimity cūdīdār dindilliam culgah dirge culgee dirzee cumbly divyasudha cumly docrease cummul dooputty cundad dopairi cunnī dopatta cuppalium dorea cutar dori dacca muslin doria dadhikali doriya dadiyā doshala daglā doshāllā danda dosooty dandaprakara do-suta daniyu do-suti darpana doti darzi drapi dasa dudhai kanjai dastar dudhia khaki dastar boongga dukula dastar khana dukulottariya dauni dunniattham dehri dupattā deogir dusa deriband dusya derries dvipadi desero ekavali desvadusya ekaveni Garments by Country 437 elatch gul-e-anar elatcha gule-baqli fakhtai gulenar farajiyyat gul-i-sarrai fargal gulpumbah fargī gunji farrukhshāh gurnakuntala ferozai guzzy firozi habassie gabā haldi gacchakā-kī-turrī hamsa gach hamsa mithuna gadar hamsa-chihna-dukula-vana gaghra hamsakah gahra gulabi hans gajajin har gajavadi hara gajipali harasekhara gamcha haravsti gandhaki harayasti gangasagara haryani gangetic hastāvali garbbhasutra hasti garchola hatakape garha hathisondaka gātrikāgranthi heer gaunaka hema-netrapata genthulla hemasutra geru hemavaikaksha ghaggharo himru ghaghara hiranya ghagra hiranyan atkan ghagri hiranya-sraj gharacholoo hirivastra gharara honkar-ki-kalangi ghararas ihenga gharcholu ijara ghughi ijarbund ghunghut indhoni ghungru India muslin ghutanna India shawl gilaharā India silk gindhuam indrachchhanda gomeda lugadu izar gorocana izār baftā goshpech izaree gota jadara govillam jahanaroho graiveyaka jalaka guchccha jalika gudia jāmā guinea cloth jāmā chakmān guj jāmāah gulbadan jamawar gulbi jamdani 438 Appendix B jamewar kalandari jamiwar kala-pat sari janghia kalasakha jarajari kalavadi jarbā kalavuka jari kalidar pyjama jastai kalpush jata-bhara kamakha jata-mukuta kamalaharitacchaya jhaggā kamalaveli jhalar kamandha jhamaratali kamarband jhanbartali kambal jhangias kambala jhulwa kambalaghana jhuna kāmdānī jhuni kameez jigari kamiz jigha kamkha jimi kamkhab jimiki kamkho jirnavastra kamkhwab jootī kamrukhi jors kamzar joshan kanakakamalaihkarna jullaha kanakakirita jungle khassa kanakaneyura kaacha kancala kaachadi kanca-pat sari kabā kanchali kabaa kanchanakumkumakambalanam kabari bandha kanchi kācali kanchli kācavo kanchuka kach kanchulika kachcha kancis kaci kancuka kaciyau pitha kancuyao kadā kangan kadali-garbha kangha kadigi kanjai kadillam kankan kafuri kanseya kageyapatte kantha kahi kanthamala kaisika kanthī kaj kulah kantopa kājaliyā kapaladharina kaksha kaparda kakshyabandha kapasi kalabaku kapdu kalabattu kapuraveli kalabattun kapurnur kalakamsuka kara kalam karayari Garments by Country 439 kardhani khasata karigar khatwa karnabharana khazz karnabhusana kheenkaub karnapura khemkaub karnavalaya khila karnika khilat karnotkilaka khinkhwab karnphul khirkidar karpasa khirki-dar-pagri karpata khirodaka karppura-tilaka khopa kasaya khuri kaseyyaka khusulka kasiam kila kasida kimkhab kasni kimkhwab kasturia kināri kasturiya kincob kasumbi kingcob kasumbo kinham kasuti kinkhab katab kinkini kataka kippe-sole katana jhuna kirita katikinari kirita-mukuta katisutra Kirmees katitra kirpas kattan kitsol kaupin kittasol kauseya kittasole kauseyaka kittesaw kaushambha kittisal kausheya kittsol kausumbha kittysol kawakī kittysoll kayabandh kitysol kediyun kochi keorai koksya keriya komānam kes konam kesapasa kopin kesariya kosa kesg’han kotai keshghan koyava ketesal krimija kettysol kripani keyura Kshauna khaddar kshouma khadi ksirodaka khadi lehnga kudtā khajalia kulah khapusa kulahā kharma kulahī kharwa kulgie 440 Appendix B kumbi makarika kumkuma makhi kunba mālā kundala mālāband kundalas malai kuppasam malamala sahi kurira malausiu kurpasaka malir kurpasika malle-molle kurta malmal kurta pyjama malya kurti mamoodie kusabhia manasasa kusti manavaka kusulaka manchira kutapa mandā paradiyā kutchi bharat mandalia kuttan mandel kuvala mandil kuvinda mangamelai labaada mangulsutra labādā mani ladva mani nupura lah mani-karnika lahariyo mani-kundala lahasyo maninupura lahra patora manivalaya laj kadvu manjira laj karvu marakatajadara laka mashi lal mashru sha’ri lalatantuja masla lalatika mauktika alankara langar mauli langooty mauli bandha langoti mauli mani languti mayau lauhitaka mayūrakanthiā leheria meghadambara lehnga megha-udumbara lhani mekhala long-drawers mirchal lovadi mirjāi lugadoo mirya lungi misaru macchavalaka misri maddavina misru madras mochi madvia mocota mahadhana mojdī mahimudisahi molochine mahmudi monache mahyu-salu mooree majithi moorie makabala morchal Garments by Country 441 mosolin nicola mothadā nicula moti nihsvasaharya motia nīlāmbarī moticuri tamaru nilaniradanicola motiya nilapatora mousceline nilavata mubaf nillae muddi niluhura mudrika nimā muduveya javali nimtanah muga nirangi muibaf nirmokinam mukhta nirnejaka muktajala nirya muktavali nisara muktika-hara nishka mukut niska mukuta nitambavastra mulmul nivasana mulmul khas nivi mulmull nivi bandha mumavadi nukkadar mundasa nula mundash numbda mundāsi numda muraja nummud murassa-jadau numna murchal numud murkī nunda mushajjar nupura mushru nūr-ī-bādlā musqin nurki mussolen nut mussolo opasa nada orhna naemet ormesine nagarā otu nainsook paaneter nainsukh pachedī naka pada naksatramala pada-bandhati nakshi kantha padamsuka namda padapatra nam-king padigunthima narangi padiniansanam narmma-haripha paduka nasta padukakrt nastalik padura nath paencha nati pāg natiyo pagarakhā netra pagari neura pagdī nibi paghadi 442 Appendix B pagote patta pāgrā pattabandha pagri pattadukula pag-sankla pattahari paheran pattala pahuñchi pattamsuka paiafzar pattamsuya paimak patti pairan pattika pajani pattu paklari patzeb palang posh pecā palempore pejar palla pelanu vastu pallav penang palpulana percaula pancauna percollae pancavarnapadi percolle pance pesa pañchaphalaka pesas pandva peshgir pane peshwas paneter phada pantadoe phāgniā paran phalaka paravalia phalaka hara pardo phalaka valaya parevau pata phanatopa parihasta phatoi parikara phatui parivesa phenta parkala phentā Mohammadī parmnaram pheran parniyan pheta paryanka phetia paryastika pheto pāsābandhi kediyū phiren pasuāj phubati pasvāj phul gulabi pat gat phulam pata phulkari pataccara phulphagarno ghaghro patalani phutā lugā pataniya sacopa phutadu pata-pallavah piazi patka picaranga pāgadi patola picaranga peco patolaka pichodī patolla piliyā patolo pīlo patorī pimpalia patrakarnika pinasco patrona pinga patrorna pintado pat-sari pintadoe Garments by Country 443 pinthadoe raju piskalaka raktambara pistai raktani pistak rallaka pitambara cadara rampoor-chuddar pomaco rang pomchā rangi ponchiyā rankava popatiya rankavapata porkhani rasana posteen rasimal posten ratna postin ratnajali poti ratnakambala pottala ratnangulia pracchadapata ratnapariksha prachchhada ratnavali praghata ratnodgrathi tottariyam pramana-krtsna rawā prapadina razai pratidhi rendi pratigraha rocana pratinivasana roghan pravara rong pravatra roundel praveni rozye prokandaka ruchika puckery rūmāl pugaree rumala puggaree rundell puggerie rupehri puggree rupya purdah sabz moongia puri sadarā puriya sadaraa puspapatta sadi pustin sadlo putalya safa qababand safed qadar sagiya guakari qatifah-i-purbi sahuli qirmizi saider qubā sairpaich quitasol sakala quitta soll sakallat quittesol saktapar radhanagri salampe rafugar salara rafugari salari raiglin salembaree raing salempoory rajai salempora rajaka salempore rajapatta salempury rajata salim shahī 444 Appendix B sallo sethi salmā-sitārā sevani sālū shabnam salūkā shah ajidah salura shahab salwar shahajidah salwar-kameez shamla samaksika sharbati sambhal sherwani samghati shimla sana shirastra sanasati shirastra jala sanbaf shireenbaf sandali shirinbaf sangati shirvani sanghati shisha sangi shubnam sania shumzil sani-gani sic sanjharavau sica-sicaya sankha sic-sik sankhavalaya sihrang sankla sikhamani sannaha sikhandaka santipur cloth silahati sanubapha silai saptaki sindu sar sirastrana saraga sire saranala siree saree sirinbaf sari siring sarkandai siropāu sarpech sirottarapattika satasutra sirpeach satavalika sirsa kataha satin sultan sirsaka satlara sirshad satlari sirsobha satthaka sitapuri satula sitara saula skandakarani sausani sola topi sauvarnapatta sonehri savadi copacchudahu sonkoli cap sebki soosey seerband soosie seershaud sopanaka sehan sosni sela soudagir selari sraja seragu sribapha serai topi sringa serpeych srnkhalika serribaf stanamsuka Garments by Country 445 stavaraka talepā stavrak talepaga stupa tali sublom talika subnom taluqdari cap sucelaka tamra suchi tanasukha suci tangalia sucihastah tanjeeb sucisona tanjib sucisutra tantra suclat tantu suddha-ekavali tanutra suddhaota tanzeb sukhumasuttani tarahara śukla dhardīa taralapratibandha suklatin tarangaka suklutun tarbuzi śunthiā tarpya supha-kamkha tāsile surabhi tassar surah tatbandpuri suravarā tawar surmai telia rumal surpaish terzi surubuli thanapatta survāla thirmā susae tilari susi tilavasa suthila tini sutra tinsel printing sutradharah tiraz band sutrahara tirchha suvarna tirita suvarnapadi tirodhana suvasana tittirapattika suvasas toda svasthana topee svechchhitika topi svetacinamsuka topiwala svityancali toran swadeshi toruphulli swamy jewelry trikarnas tabrizi triphalaka tafailah triveni tafta trrsa taj tulakoti tajehbaf tulapansi tajvu tulapunnika takan tumana takaschiya tundikeri takauchiyah tunnavaya talapaga tupy talavantika turra talee turrah 446 Appendix B turrā-i-mārwadī vangala turri varabana turro varasi turudam varna-krtsna tus varsikasatika tutki varti udbandha varvana umavadi vasa unnabi vasas unnatasikharavestana vashti upanah vastra upanat vastragrantha uparanī vastrañchala uparanū vati uparivastra vaturinapada uparna vavr upasampanna vaya upasamvyana vedla upasirsaka vegachiya upavasana veman upavastra veni upavita vesh urasala vestana urbāi vesti urna vethaka urna sutra vettam urumali vibushana ushnisa vicitra ushnisha vihita kappasa usnìsa vijayachchhanda uttarasanga vijayantika uttariya viramo vadhuya vitha vadkyu vyalapanktirmañjari vaga warak vagho yantraka vahitha yapanji vahitika yar pariahan vaijayantika yashti vaikaksaki yasti vaikaksha zaituni vajramsuka zamurradi vakala zardozī valaya zarī valkala zarrin vanadana zerbaft vanakara

INDONESIA baju batik baju kurung blangkon baju panjang bunga bau balusu cermuk basta cloth dali dali Garments by Country 447 disissik sambu’ bongi dodo saput dodot sarassang double ikat sarong fuya sarong billá gallang sarong kadojo geringsing sarong kaledo grinsing sarong lambing hijo marstiogutoguan sarong lombok hingghi sarong pakolong hohos sassang ikat selendang irengan sepu’ kain singep kain panjang sissin kara kamben cerik slendang kandaure soga kebaya songket kepala stagen khombu sulo bannang koffo surjan kombu talabo krambuno talede kupiah tali bate’ lau tali katarrung lemba tali pakkaridi’ lembe tali tarrung lurik tampan manik ata tapis manik barata tatibin manik bura bura tau manik kalaa’ tjap manik sekke’ tjindai manik tai anda’ tora-tora manik tinggi tulis pagi-sore tumpal palepai tusuk patondon ulos godang pio borong ulos lobu-lobu plangi ulos suri-suri rara umpal

IRAN arqalix ghava-ye zananeh bagdad wool iç tuman çabat jiqa çargat kamarband chaddar kawa chitta klaw-i jnan çuga klaw-i pyawan darpe koynek dastmal kras dhoti kulah 448 Appendix B kulah-e kordi rank musa salteh panba sancaq paridhana sowlar peç tuman pirahan üst tuman pirahan-e zananeh uttariya pistent yagliq qulaqça

IRAQ dish dasha jarrawiyah farous yatshmagh hashimi zaboon

IRELAND adagan bàn aerdhaite bandle agait bandle linen aigeallan bàn-gheal aigilean bann-bhràghad ailbheag airgid bann-bhràighe ailbheag cluais bann-dùirn leine ailbheagan bann-muineal àilleag barraighin aincis basc āinne bath-throid airmchrios bēabhar aision beannag ametist beul-a-theach amhcha bigean amlag binnogue anart garbh biorān angadh biorraid aodach solus boban aodach tiusail boicionn aparan boideachan aparsaig boineid aprūn boineid bhall-ach babag boineid biorach baban boineid chath-dath babhaid boiseid bàin-dearg boltrachan bairēad bōna balbriggan borsa balg bòtuinn balgan bracach balg-bannaig bracaille balg-thional bracan ball brāislēad ball-serice bràist baltaich bràisteachan Garments by Country 449 braistich caille brakan cailmhion brannamh cailmleid bras-fhalt caimmse bras-ghruag càin brat cainb brat-dhearg cainb-aodach brayes caipīn breaban-deiridh cairtidh breaban-toisich caisbheart breacán cais-chiabh breac-liath caisean-feusaig breadeen caisreag breakan calbhthas breathnas call brēid callaid bréid camag bréid geal camalag bréid-bronn canabhas bréidín canach bréid-uchd canaichean brēit carkanett breug-chiabh carranes briosaid carrickmacross lace brīste casag brium casag-mharcachd brōc casair brōg casōg bròg-bhréid cas-urladh bròg-chalpach ceadach bròg-fhiodha cealt brogs cealtar broith ceanna-bhrat broithdheanta ceann-aodach broiudneireachd ceann-bhàrr brok ceann-bhàrr eas-buig bròn ceann-bheart bronnach ceann-éideadh brucag ceara bruinneadach ceimhleag buac ceimh-mhileach buaicean ceimh-phion buatais céire buidhe ceòis buidhe-bhan ciabhag buidhe-dhonn ciabh-chasta buidhe-ruadh ciarsūr buidhe-shoilleir cias buidh-liath ciasan builg cinnteagan cadadh ciolar cadās ciotag caddow cirb cadows clabaran caicmhe clach-mhara 450 Appendix B clann crà-gheal cleachd crambaid cleachdag crèach clearc cridhachan cleòc crios cleòcan criosan cliabh crios-ceangail cliabhan-ceangail crios-claidheimh clōca crioslachen clòimh crios-muineil cluas-sheud crios-pheilear cnàimh-deud crios-tarsainn cnaipe criss cnap crò snàthaid cnapan-trusgaidh cròchach cneaball crochag cneap-tholl crò-dhearg coamery croiméal cobhrach croisgileid cochall cronnt cochlach crubhas cochull crubhasg coilēar cruinneacan coileir crùn coilichin crùn-easbuig coire cruth-lachd cōirighim cuach-chiabh còmhdach cuach-fhalt comh-dhualadh cuaran corcuir cubhrag corcur cuille corcurachd cuircinn coron culaidh-aodaich coron Muire culaidh-bainnse coron òir culan corr-léine culpait cosar cumhais còta cùrainn còta biorach dubh cùrainn-chneas cóta coirí currac còta de chadadh nam ball curracag còta-ban cuth-bhàrr còta-bhioran cuth-bharran còta-cathdath deacaid còta-craicinn dealg còta-fada dealg-fhuilt còta-gearr dealg-gualainn còta-glas dearg còta-goirid deargan còta-uisge deirge cotan deise còtan deise-mharcachd còt’-iochdair delg còt’-uachdair dīllat cotun dlùth Garments by Country 451 donn foil donn laugh-na-h-éilde foileid donn-ghlas fola donn-uaine for-bhrat dornag fo-ruadh dorn-nasq fuaigheal dosan-banntraich fūan dreach-bhuidhe fudag dreas fuigheag driubhlach fuiliche drògaid fuilidh droineach gairgre druin garbh-chulaidh dual gartan dualadh geal dubhach geideal dubh-bhuidhe geolan dubh-ghlas giall-bhrat dubh-ghorm giogan dugh-ruadh giosān duibleid glas duire glasag-muineil eabonach glib ēadach glinne ēaduighim glùinean earradh goirridh éideadh goon lhiabbee eobhrat gorm ētach gorm-aotrom ētim gòrsaid ētiuth grant fail gré faileach-an gréis failtean gréiseadaireachd fāinne gréiseadh fàinne-pòsaidh gréis-obair faitheam grian-sgàil fallaing grian-sgàilean falluing grin falt-dhealg groilleach fasgadan guirmean feilt guiseid feòil-dhaith te gunachan feòil-dhath hata ferenn iall feusag-bheòil iallachrann fīal iar ficheall iar-dhonn filead inar finic intuiger fionnadh ionar flann ionaradh flannach Irish crochet flann-dhearg Irish lace fo-bhuidhe Irish lawn 452 Appendix B

Irish linen maolag Irish poplin maolas Irish work mattal kerry cloak meanaigean laipeid meanbh-ghàirdean lāmann miniceag lāmhain minicionn làmhainn minicionn-laoigh làmhan miotag lamhas mogan lāmind mogan briogais lāsa muince lasdadh muinead leacadan muinge lēine muintorc léineag mùtan leíne-aifrionn nasgadh léine-bhàn nèapaicin anhaich léine-chaol nèapaicin pòca léine-chròich neas-nam-fuar-thirean léine-sheacair nos léine-thuilinn nuamhanair léinteag obair-ghréis leis-bheart obair-gréise leis-bhrat obair-shnàthaid lēne odhar lenn òir-chrios lethar oir-ghreus leth-bhòt oisionair leth-ruadh olann leug ollaodach liagh-dhealg òmar liath òr-bhann liath ghorm òrbhuidhe liath-ghuirme orchell liath-phurpur or-choilear līn ordnasc linnseach ósain linnseach thrusaidh osanachd liocadan paidirean līon painntin lion-cinn pàirt-dhathach lóipíní pannus sine grano lorg-bheart peallaid loth pealltag lùireach pèarluinn lùireach leathair peiteag lùireach mhàilleach peiteag-mhuinicheallach luirg-bheairt phalinges lumman pilus tinctus màilleach pluinnseag màilleag pòca mairtíní prāiscīn manag prine mantal purpaidh Garments by Country 453 putan snāthad rachdan snàthad riabhach snāthat ribean snàth-clòimhe rocal snàth-cuir rocket snāthe ròibeag snàth-fuaidhle ròin snàth-lìn ròin-aodach snàth-righailt roinne-bhaidhe snàth-sioda ròinn-léine sneachd-gheal roisean soilleir-dhonn ròsach spad-choisbheart ruadh speilp ruadh-bhuidhe spiochag ruaithne spleuchdan ruga spliùchan russet sraing saffron shirt sròin-eudach sainre staighinean scuird stalcadair seileadach starrs seircean stiog seircin stiom seiric stiomag seod stìom-amhaich sēt stìom-bhràghaid sēt argait stoca seud-ghlasaidh stocainn sgaball stocainnis sgaileagan stoic sgàilean-uisge streachlan sgail-uisge strilinn sgala striop sgrog sturraic sgrogaid sturraicean sgrogan stuth sguain sugar sgùird suggan sgulair tabbinet sgùman tabinet sīoda taifeid sīric tāilliūr sīta taist slapaireachd teud-bhràghad slat-rioghail thicksets slipēir toban smàrag toll-cnaip smigeadach tonach smiotag topas smugadair traheen smuig-aodach triubhas smuigeadach triubhsair snaim na banaraich trius snāth troighthíní 454 Appendix B truis-bhràghad uchdach trus uchd-bheart trusgan uchd-chrios trutag ula tuil-aodach ulach tuillinn ulchadh uaine usgaraidh uaine-donn usgar-bhràghad uaine-dorcha usgar-mheur uainicionn youghal

ISLE OF MAN carranes gorrym coamery keear coif cooil corran Manx plaid criss oashyr voynee goon lhiabbee oashyr-slobbagh

ISRAEL benayeq sawa ‘ìd harir nabati

ITALY a gomito basco a gozzo baston con anima abiti batista abito da pantalone bautta agnellino de Persia bavaglio agnello bavalla ago benda almuzi berettino alpagas berretto alpargata berretto alla marinara alta moda bersagliere anello berta anime biancherie dammaschinate appicciolato bianchetto applicazione bianco armadura del busto bigio armatura blusa arricciatura blusante astrakan boccaccino azzurro bombasino baccello di piselli bombetta bacchetta borsa balza borsalino balzana bottoni balzo braccialetto banda arricciata bragetto barrettino brandistocchi baschina bredon Garments by Country 455 broccato confezione brochetta coppo bruno corazza bruschino corno burano lace corpetto cachemire marguerite corredo calamatta cors calza coru calzamaglia cosetto calzatura cotone calzettoni cotta de maglia calzoni cotta d’ecclesiastico cambraia cravatta camicia cremesino camicia da donna crespo camicia rossa crinolina camiciuola cuffia cammello cuoio camocho Cyprian gold campanoni d’ori damaschino canavaccio damasco cannellato dankalia capretto della cappello divolgatore cappucio dogaline cardato dorso carmagnole drap o drapé carminio drapo casco droghette casco coloniale elmo di giostra casentino ermellini casimiro ermellino castagnino faglia castorino faina castoro falda o tesa cavallino faldia cavalry falpalà chermisi fasciatrella chermisino fazolo chinchillà fazzoletto ciarpa de’ Scozzesi feltro cintura feluca ciondolino fermaglio cioppa ferraiuolo cloche di feltro fettuccia coazzone filetto coccarda fili tirati cocuzzolo o cupola filo codini fimbria colbacco finestrella collana fiocco collare flabells colletto Florentine hat collo foca colori corozoso fodera conchiglie cipree forcella 456 Appendix B fregio lince frenello linea imperio frontone de berretto lino fuine lista fuselli lontra fustian anapes lupo gabano lustrini gabbano lutto galero magiostrine gallone maglia piatta gamurra manica garanza manica a buffo garza maniche á comeo gassa manople gatto civetta mantello Genoa lace Mantua hose Genoa velvet mappelana Genoese embroidery marabù gherone margarite ghiottone marinara ghirlanda marmotta giacca marsina giacchetto martora giall’ antique mascherata giallo maspilli giallo antico mazzette gibus medaglio gioielle merletto gioiello merletto-trina chiaacchierino gonna mescolato gonna pantalone mezzaro grana minigonna grano d’orzo mitile grembiule monachino grigio mongolia grisaglia morello groppo murmel gros gren mussolina gros point myllion gros point de Venise Naples lace gualescio nappina guanto nastro guanto senza dita ocelot guazzerone ocra harris opossum impiraperle orecchino impiraressa organza indaco orlo kalgan ornamento de gioielli kolinsky orso lacca padisoy lana padou lapin paduasoy lavanda padusoy leopard pagliaccetto Garments by Country 457 paglietta punto a gropo pagonazzo punto a maglia quadra palandrano punto erba palo de lione punto neve pampilion punto passato pannicelli punto tagliato panno punto tirato panno e pannino puzzola pantaloni radielfo pantaloni alla zuava raggiera pantaloni corti raso pantera raso cinese pantofola ratmusqué paramani restagno d’oro parasole reta parrucca rete passamontagna reticella passanastro reticella lace pastrano ricamo paternostri ricamo in bianco pavonazzo ricamo in bianco a reticello pellanda ricamo in bianco ad intaglio pelliccia ricamo in bianco inglese pelo di castora ripresa penna di fagiano romagnuolo penna di gallo rosato petit-gris rose point lace pettabotta roso pettinato rossetto petto rossiccio pianelle saglia pianeta di prete saia piccolo punto saione piegatura sandalo piegatura a punte sarto piegatura triangolare scamiciato pieghettato scarlatto piquet scarpa piuma scarpe piuma di struzzo sciameto pizzo scimmia pizzo ad ago scollatura pizzo ad ago a fuselli scozzese pizzo punto in aria sella pizzo rinasciemento sergia porpora seta princesse sfilatura principessa smezzati moro punchetto soppravvesta punto a feston soprabito punto a giorno sottana punto a giorno cordonetto sottogonna punto a giorno croce spillo punto a giorno festone spillo da petto punto a giorno indietro stametto 458 Appendix B stivale turchino stivaletto tuscan stivali grossi tuta stola vaio stravestito a la todesco vajo stringhe velette svasatura di abito-sbieco velluto talpa velo tasca Venetian lace tasso ventoye tela vermicelli tela cerata veste da camera tela de lino veste di camera tela grossolana vestire tela Tagliata vestiti tela tirata vestito da sera tight vezzo tintillano vigogna tocco visiera del berretto toghe visone tombolo volpe tonaca volpe o renard tovaglia zache traguardo zambellotto trapuntato zazzara tremolanti zendado tricorno zendale trina zibellino trinzale zimarra tunica zoccolo turbante

JAPAN abarenoshi aya agemaki baori aizome momen bashōfu akane beni aka-ume-zome bingata akome birodo amageta bokashi ao-iro burausu aozuri chanchanko aratae chayazome Arimatsu shibori chijimi asagi chikara-age asanoha chirimen ashida chugata ashifuki daimon ashi-maki Danjuro cha ashinaka-zori danshichi-goshi atsuita date-eri attush date-gera awase-bodokko datemaki Garments by Country 459 denkuro-zome hikeshi hanten detachi hiogi dobuku hirauchi dochu-gi hire dofuku hirosode dogi hitai-ebosi donsu hitatare ebo hitoe eboshi hitta-zome ebosi hiyoku echizen ho Edo kanoko hoju egasuri homongi ei hoso-zome ekawa ichi-dome eri Ichimatsu ezo nisbiki ikan fugi inaka yuzen fukube-dana inkin fungomi irege furisode ishi-zoko fusa ityogaesi fusube izaribata fusuma Jap mink geta Japanese crepe gheta jiaki-kanoko gimmoru jika-tabi ginran jimbaori gobaishi jinashi goburan-ori jinashi-nuihaku habaki jofu habutai juban habutaye junihitoe hachijo kabuto hadajuban kabuto-sita haidate kachi haji kaeshi hakama kaga-boshi hakata kaidori hakimono kakeda hakoseko kake-eri haku-e kaki-sarasa han-eri kaku obi han-juban kame-nozoki hanao kamishimo hancha kammuri hankotana kamozi hanten kampū haori kanden-medare happi kanjiki hata kanoko hattan kanoko-zome heko-obi kanto hidarimae kanzashis hi-goza kanzasi 460 Appendix B kappa kooi kappa dachi Korin-nami kappu korozen kara-aya koshi karagumi koshiate kara-mushi koshihimo kara-nishiki koshimaki karanko geta koshipiri kara-nui kosode karaori kote kara-ori ko-watari-tozan kariginu kuri-ume kariyasu kuro kasa kuro montsuki haori kasuri kurochō kata-eri kuro-ume-zome kata-hazusi Kurume-gasuri kata-ori kusi katabira kuzufu katagami kuzununo katami-gawari kyahan katasuso kyara-abura katatsuke Kyo-zome kataza-kanoko mae-dare kata-zome mae-gami katazome mae-migoro katsura magatama katsura-zutsumi mage kawa maiwai kazuki mame-shibori kera-mino marumage kesa maru-obi keshinui matsuinui kesho matsu-nori khaiki megane kidara meisen ki-gomo meyui ki-hachijo midori kimmoru mimi-kakusi kimono mino kinran mitu-ori kinsha mituwa kinu mo kinumo moegi kiri-osa mofuku kogai mokume-shibori kogin momohiki kokechi momo-ware koketsu mompe ko-kinran mon komon mon-chirimen Komparu monpe kon monsha kondosa montsuki kon-gasuri moruori Garments by Country 461 moto-yui samurai-ebosi mugiwara bō sanjaku-obi muna-medare sanmai-gusi murasaki sarasa mutsuki sarashi naajuban sarashi nuno naga-juban saya naga-tenuge seigo nama ha zome sen nanako-kokechi Sendai Hira silk Nankin nishiki sensuji nawame-irokawa sha nerinuku shibori nezumi-iro shibori-zome nicho-kinran shige-meyui nigitae shigoki-obi nihyakusan-koti shihan niigashi shike-ito nishijin shima nono-obi Shimokyo-zome nora-gi shinobugusa noshime shioze nugi-sage shiromuku nuihaku shitagi nuikiri shoaizome nuno shohakuzan obi shokko-nishiki obi makura shozoku obi-age shuchin obiage shusu obi-dome simada obijime sode oboro-zome sode-guchi ogami sode-nashi ohi so-kanoko okumi sokuhatu okura-nishiki sokutai omeshi somoyo omote kon’ya sora-iro osode suji ozura sumi pokkuri sumitsubo ra suo rasha surihaku Rikan cha suso rinzu susomoyo ro susoyoke rokechi suzushi roketsu tabi Roko cha tabie-nishiki ro-ten-kechi tachi-kake ro-zome taihakuzan Ryūkū-gasuri taiko obi sageo taisha sakayaki takajo-tabi 462 Appendix B takashimada ushiro-migoro takenaga usuaka Tamba cloth usugake tamoto wara tanzen waraji tasuki watabōshi tate-nishiki watashinui tattsuke yama-bakama tayu-kanoko Yamato nishiki tekko yoji-nori tenugui yoko-nishiki tenzin-mage yoroi-hitatare tombodama Yoshinaka-zome toyama yuage tsubo-ori yuhada-kawa tsujigahana yuishiba-komon tsumugi yukata tsuzure-nishiki yukue-humei tsuzure-ori yusoku orimono tyasen-gami Yuzen uchidashi-kanoko Yuzen birodo uchikake yuzen makinori uchiwa yuzen-zome ukon zogan uma-no-tsura zukin ungen-nishiki

JAVA bangbangan kain bebed kawung belongkon kemben biron lokcan burung hook megamendung cinde kenanga mengekudu cinde parang pici cinde wilis sampour dodot tapih iket wadasan kabaya

KENYA bafta kaniki bendera kikoi bombei

KOREA anjonp’in chagae apch’ima chajutbit cchok chak’et chach’im’ chambangi chaetpit chamot Garments by Country 463 changgap k’aak’isaekui changhwa kabal chang-ot k’aenbosu charak kajuk hyokdae charuot kalsaek chasu kamsaek chasujong kapsa chigap karakchi ch’ilbo norigae kat ch’ima kat-no chinbunhongui kaun chingmul kin koot chinhongsaek kirin chip’angi kkokkaot chobawi kkwemaeda choggi kodongsaek chogon kodot chogori kodulch’i chokki kombukta choksaek komp’uruda chokturi komun chol kongdan ch’olmo koong-soo ch’on korum chonbok k’ossuyom chongbok kubi najûn kudo chongjagwan kubi nop’ûn kudu ch’ongsaek kuduggun ch’oroksaekui kule chudan kumbit chungch’imak kumshigye chungjolmo k’unmori chungsanmo kwigoi eip’uron kyonjiingmul gomushin kyorhon panji habok kyorhon yak’on panji hanbok maekko moja handubaek magoja hangra mangt’o hansam melbbang hoesaek melppang hongsaek min-soo horitti mobondam hukjinju moja hwajang mokdori hwajangbok mokgori hwamunsa moktor hwangsaek morikkoji hwap’o moritkirum hyanggap norigae mosi hyangsu mosulrin injo chinju mudang morikkoji injogyonsa myojushil ioring myongju jjalbunyangbokbaji myonsa 464 Appendix B naeui reink’ot’u naewang reion nailron ribon najon rojario namaksin sa nambawi saekduresu negulrije saenggosa nek’och ìpù samjak norigae nekt’ai samo noggui-hongsang sangbok nokmal sejodae noksaek shin norat’a sich’ida norigae silanebok obang-nangja sogot oet’u sokch’ima oggaegori sokot ojak norigae som okyangmok somae orenjibich’ui somaega tchalbun ot somot otcharak songabang otgam songkabang otkam sonsugon oubosyuuju sudan paekkum sukkosa paenang suk’oot’u p’aench’u sul paji sulraeksu pakjwiu san sun-gum p’aljji suwet’o p’almok sigye syassu pang’ adari norigae syool panghyang taenggi pansomae t’aesahye pansomae syossu tagalsaek panujil tan panul tanbal p’arang tanch’u pidan tanch’u kumong po tanhwa pojagi t’okbaji ponit t’oljanggap poratpit t’olshil puch’ae tolsil ‘pujok t’ol-sil puk tongbok pukta t’orot p’ulrannel tosaek pulrausu totnamaksin punjang totsin p’uruda tot’urak taenggi p’urun tti pyonbal ttoljam randosel ttuggong Garments by Country 465 t’ugu unpit tuikkoji usan turamaggie waisyooch’u turesu wanggwan turumagi wanjang twitkkoj yangbok paji uibok yangmal uiryu yangmal taenim undonghwa yangsan unhye yonboratpit unmunsa yonmibok unpich’ui

LAOS chong kra ben sabong hua sanghhati kruang tok siiwaun pha ap nam fon sin pha beang su kom phaa sua hii phaa chet paak sua saband thaut phaa sin tdinjok prakhotaeo thung rom tiin sin

LAPLAND finnesko peski Lapland bonnet prievīte lukka wadmal

LIBYA sha ‘iriyya

LITHUANIA ada dalmonas adata dārgums apg’erbt delmonas apikaklé drabužis apkakle drebe apruoce drebes apsiustas drebnieks ápvilkti drobé au dekls gelumbė audeklas g’erbt batas gredzens bovelna güldenstick brangenybé juosta brangus akmuo juostos čebatas kailiniai cepure kailis cimds kakla ruota 466 Appendix B kaklaryšis plivers karbatkos ploščius karieliai priejuostė kazuoks prieksauts kedelys prijuostė kelinės puoga kepuré saga k’eša šilkai kiklikas simtakvaldis kišené siūlas kniepe siuvėjas knypkis škidrauts kojinė skrybélé krekls skūra kuokvilna slaucis kurpė šliuré linai sopagas lindraki spice lini švarkas margine šydas marška šyras maršliniai tūba medvilnė tupele mētelis vadata mila vadmala milas vilna nometas vilnos nosine zābaks nuometas zeke pavediens zīds pirkstaine žiedas pirštinė ziurstai

MACEDONIA brok resi kiski

MADAGASCAR akanjo kitamby akanjobe korsaza ankanjo lamb mena bafota lamba bafota malandy lamba maitso bui-bui lamba soratra dalahany lambahoany deboan landy foloara lasoa hariry malabary helaka rafia kazaka roafia kemba rôbo kisaly rofia Garments by Country 467 sadiaka sarandrana salaka seray salampy siki salovana tergal sambelatra tirkô

MALAYSIA baju kain sampin bidang kelantan kain songket kain lepas tekat menekat

MANCHURIA sirghe

MEXICO arracadas huipilli cactli ichcahuipilli cadeneta ichcatl calzón ixtle calzoncillo la bolsa calzoneras listonés chalchihuitl malacateras chanclas manga charmèécolera máquina de gasa contado maxtlatl cotón morrales cotorina nelpiloni coyoichcatl paliacate cueitl pavo real de caracolillo pie ehuatl posahuanco el costal punto de Espana enagua quechquemitl enredo quilitl enredos refafo fantasia renque fuchina serape holán soyate huarache Spanish needlepoint huepilli tagora huicó terciopelo huipil tilmatli huipil grande xicolli huipile con labor

MICRONESIA nikautang 468 Appendix B

MONGOLIA del sirkek

MOROCCO alberoce jeltesta baboutcha jelteta deraa khamar djellaba kheaya el kebira ebbelo ktef endima kumya farrajiyah lekmann detsmira festoul lezim firmla Moorish lace gonbaiz qaftan grun quich hendira saiat hezam sebnia hiyyak seroval jelab serul jellab shesh jellaba sualef jellabia sualef ez zoher jellib tijajin d-mahduh

NAMIBIA eha ombari etapi

NAVAJO

’at’a’ ke’ achogii bee chaha’ohí kétl ‘óól dáábalii lájish deiji’éé’ lashdóón dilhil látsíní dootl’izh leetsoii ‘éétsoh ‘álts’íígíí libá halba lichíí halbá lizhin halchii’ ndik’a’ hodootl’izh tl’ aakal jaatl’óól zéédééldoi

NATAL isi Diya umutsha

NEPAL topi Garments by Country 469

NETHERLANDS hul

NEW ZEALAND aho parengarenga aronui patu hitau hinarunaru pauku horu pekerere huruhuru pohoi io pokeka kahu kuri pokinikini kahu waero pora kaitaka poro-toroa kaka hu kura potae taua karure puahi kaupapa pukaha kokowai pureke korowai rapaki kuru ta mai taniko manaeka tatara mangaeka tatua maro tatua-pupara maro huka tauri maro kaakaapoo timu maro kaukau topuni maro kopua tu kartu maro kura tuaka maro kuta tu-hou maro waero tumatukuru maro waiapu tu-maurea miro tu-muka paepaeroa whakatipu parakiri whatu parawai

NIGERIA abe boje adire cloth dan garagai afia dan kura agbada dansiki akoko dedo alabere disa alari doni allura mai-kai ebolo asi-ebi ebu aso-alake ekpe cloth aso-oke etibo attigra etu bakwala fatumar saki bante fila ab’eti 470 Appendix B gare sace gbariye saki George sambatsi girike sanyan girki sapara hula saki sarkan wuya ibante seghosen ibobirin semfiti iborun shudiya ikori sokoto iyegbe sokoto kafo kaftani sokoto kembe kalabi stagbe labarikada suliya lagidigba takelmi lappa talhakimt malafa talhatina marafiya tilbi messauria tobi mubarshi bakin fara topola olino tozali oni didi ukara oni lilo woko oniko wundi oyam yar chiki oyuan yari yankunne pabagu yeri riga zane rigona zobe sabada

NORWAY avve gamanjunni baugr gáppte belling gimsteinn belti gjorð bloeja glofi blonder gørsemi boti guosaga brœkr Hallingdal breeches brud halsgjørð buningr hanzki busserull hengjehuva ceabet hodnhue dalkr hodnhuva dasko holbi dukr hörr feldr hosa floki hottr fotaforkle hovdatyet gåat adahke hringr gábmaga klœða gahper klœði Garments by Country 471 komag siklat komager silki kruneforkle skaut lad skilkja leðr skor lerept skraddari lijnne skyrta lin sliehppa lindi sokkr lissto solje luer søljer lusekufte stölebelte men styfill mpttull sválltjá muoddá tjeld nål toboggan nesti Trolldals-trøya perlehatt tsavága pofi ull praðr utskurdsøm rokkr vað rondastakken vadmal sauma vuoddaga serkr

OGBONI itagbe

OMAN familla shash lihaf yashmak

PAKISTAN abla kola ajrak pushk kurta bagh salim shahi jinnah cap

PALESTINE aba ‘aqd anbar abaaya ‘aqd wazari abba ‘araqiyeh abiyad ‘arayjeh abu hizz ahmar asaweri abu miten asawir ‘iradh abu sab’in asbeh ruwaysiyeh ‘ajami asmar ‘aqal barracan ‘aqal mqassab bayt al-sham 472 Appendix B bazayl keffiyeh benayiq kermezot beramen khalaga bisht kharaz azraq brim khatim bughmeh khawatim burak khirqa burqo khsur busht khurkeh damer kiber dendeki kirdan dikkeh kornaysh dikky kshat dima kubba’ah dimayeh kum dubbahah lafa’if dura‘ah laffayeh durra’a laffeh durzi laseh elbas lefhah esawra libas gazzatum libbadeh ghabani lozi ghabaniyyeh madas ghudfeh mahrameh ghwayshat malak habkeh malak abu wardeh harbeh malas harir asli malwa harir nabati mawaris hatta menajel hattah mendil heremzi mendil hajj hidim mintiyan hidim al-khal mlawlaw hijab msayyaha hizam mukhmal ikhdari muwanna irdan nasheq rohoh ‘isāba nileh ishdad ‘owaynet al-sus iznaq qabbeh jibbeh qabbet anbar jihaz qaftan jiljeleh qalush jiljileh qamha hamra jillayeh qamis jinnehu nar qarawi jukh qasab kafiyyeh qasabiyeh kamakh qaz kamr qaziyeh karamil qiladeh dhahab karnaysh qladeh kashmir qladet ‘anbar Garments by Country 473 qladet morjan shunbar ahmar qladet qrenfol shuwayhiyyeh qumbaz sidriyeh qutbah fallahi sirwal rosa smadeh rozah tahrireh ruhbani taqiyeh rumi taqsireh sabaleh tarabulsi safadiyeh tarbi’ah saffeh tarbush istanbuli salta tarbush maghribi samasmiyeh tayyet sunnára saru thob sfifeh thob al-khidmah sha ’riyeh thob al-tal‘ah shabakat al-kharaz thob basitah shakkeh thob mukhmal azraq shal tifsireh shaleh tikkeh shambar tinbiteh shamlah tubayt shanf tubsi sharbush wata shash wuqa shatweh wuqayat al-darahem shawal wuqayat ed-derahim sherihah wuqayeh shinbar yezmeh shinyah zamliyeh shinyar binaqleh talis zaybaqah shmar zunnar shnat zunnar asmar shribrik zunnar maqruneh shrimbawi zunnar tarabulsi shughl talhami zurband shunbar

PERSIA avonet ormuzine kalmuks pah-poosh khalkhal persienne kola picheh kullah pirahan nagdeh sera pis naqsha skarabigion

PERU alforja bellotas anacu buriel avaska camisón 474 Appendix B canipo mascaypacha centro de lana milakatra chalina mukhu-wara chaman pampanilla chimpato paño berbi chimpita pañolones chipana pardillo choclos phali chuca piñe chumpi pishka chupetes polca chusi pollera chuspa ppipu ppipu ahuaska cordellate prosaponcho corpiño pullo cotón qompi culeco rjsó cumpi roncadoras curi ropa bordado cushma saco desplegada saco de abrigo detente sayal dormilonas shukina faldellin shukuy fustan singelos fuste tapada gunpowder silk tembleques huali tocuyo jerga tumbe katra tupu llanque unku llautu unkucha llawto usuta llica llica ahuaska wak’a lliclla walka manquitos wara marate waraka mascaipacha yacolla

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS abaca langkit agamid malong balibuntal malong andon ballibuntal malong pandi ballibuntl mayad baro pañuelo barong tagalong piña cloth batavia cloth saba bitug saya butung suklang jabul tubao jusi wano Garments by Country 475

POLAND agrafka klapove hitl aksamit klejnot batyst klobuk bawełna kolczyk bielizna kolnierz binde kolor granatowny bizuteria kolor khaki blezer kolpak bluska konfederatka bransoletka kontush brazowy korona brode koronki broszka kostium damski brunatny koszula damska brusttuch koszula meska bryczesy kountouch but krawat cerata krawiec chapska kredka chusta krochmal chusteczka krótkie spodnie contoushe kupkeh czapka kwef czarny lappenmutze czarny jak smola laska czepek lazur czerwony len czolka lila-röz duchowny macica perlowa fartuch majtki fartuszek marynarka fraka maskotka futro medalionik gabardyna mokasyny gaza mosalka gorset naramiennik guzik naszyjnik halka nic’ igla niciane rekawiczki jedwab nitka kaftany nocna koszula kall norki kamea oblec kamiselka obraczka slubna kamizelka obuwie kapelusz odziac kaptur odzienie kasztanowaty odziez kelle okulary kierpce okulary sloneczne kieszen’ oliwny klapa pantofel 476 Appendix B parasolka suba part sukienka pas sukmanki patynek suknia peleryna suknie perkal sukno perla surdut pierścień surowa bawelna pilsc suwak pilsn sweter zapinany piorko szafir pizama szal płaszcz szary płotno szkarlat podkolanówki szkarlatny podszewka szlafrok pomaranczowy sznurowadlo ponczocha szpilka popielaty sztruks portki tasiemka przednapurpurowy tchapka rab tenisówski rajstopy tkanina rekaw tkanina dziana rekawica toga rekawiczka torebka damska robótka trykotaze rubin trykoty satyna trzewik siwy tunika skarpetka turkus skóra tusc sniegowce ubrac sniezobialy wasy sobol waz spinki welna spodic welniana kamizelka spódnica welniane skarpetki spódniczka welon spodniczka szkocka wstazka spodnie zakiet sprzaczka zamsz stanik zarost sternstichl zbroja stirnbindel zielony streimel zolty strój

POLYNESIA

‘ie-tonga tapa maro tiputa sialoa titi siapo titi-le-’au Garments by Country 477

PORTUGAL aba borda acessório bordado acetato borla acetinado bota águamarinha botão agulha de tricô botina albói botoeira alfaiate bracelete alfinete braguilha alforje branquidão algibeira brilhante algodão brim caqui aliança brinco alpargata cabeleira amarelo cabeleira postiça âmbar cabeleirerio ametista cachecol amido calçado amuleto calção anágua calçao de banho anil calçao de montaria aranzel calças argênteo calças de couro argolas calicó armadura camada arminho camafeu arroxeado cambolim arruivado cambraia avental camisa de baixo azul camisa de força azulado camisa de homem azulmarinho camisa de lā babador camisa de muiher baço camisa de rigor baeta camisa de senhoras barba camiseiro barbante camiseta barraca camisola barrete capa bastão capacete bata capota batina capote batom capucha bibe capuchinho blusa capuz blusa de operário capuz de frade blusão cáqui bobina carapuça bobo carmezim boina carmim boné cartola boquilha casa de botão 478 Appendix B casaca droguete casaco elmo di giostra casaco de peles encerado casaco esportiva entretela casaco para uso caseiro escarlate casemira espartilho de senhora casimira espécie de jaqueta castanho esqui casulo esquilo cavanhaque estampado cebolão estopa cerata faixa cereja farda ceroulas fatiota cerulea fato cerzideira ferradura cetim fiapo chapeleiro fita chapéu cardinalício fitelho chinó fivela chita fôrma chitão fralda cimeira franja cinta frisa cintaliga friso cinto fundilho cinturão fundo de agulha cinzento fustão cocar gaforinha colar galão colar de pérolas galocha colcha de renda gaze colchete gibão colête gola cor gorro cor de laranja gravata cor de rosa grisalho cordões de sapatos ilhó coroa jaleco correia articulada japona cós jaqueta costeleta jarreteira costureira jérsei costureiro joalharia cota lã coturno lapela couraça laranja crepe-de-china latão crepon láurea cresta lenço croché lenço de sêda da india cuecas lepela culote lilás damasco lingüeta debrum linha Garments by Country 479 linho retrós luva roxo macacão rubi mala rubro mancebo safira manequim saia mangas perdidas saiote manga saiote escocês manilha sandália manquitos sapata manta sapato manto de pescoço sarja manto militar scarf marfim scarlet marrom seda marta setim meia setimeta meia calça smoking meias de lã sobrecapa monócula sobrecasaca nácar sobrepeliz náilon sobretudo negro sobretudo sôlto negro como azeviche sombrinha ocre sombrinha chapeau de sol óculas sotaina oliwny suéter opala tabardo orla tafetá paletó tamanco palhaço tampa palmilha tanga pano tear paramentos sacerdotais tecidos párasol teia pardo tejadillo pedraria tesoura pele de cordeiro tiracolo pelego touca pelica traje penduricalho trancinha peniche lace tricô penteado tricolina perna da calça tricota pérola túnica peruça turbante pijama turquesa pó-de-arroz umbrela ponto de cruz vagem de ervilhas preto vasconso púrpura velludo purpúreo verde quimono vermelhão rendalo vermelho rendilhado vestido 480 Appendix B vestir violeta vestuário xale vidrilho zibelina

PRUSSIA esquavar jelek flügelmütze

RHODESIA amabejhu ishiwaba amanqonqo isigula amanyatelo iziketsho ebomvu nyoro incwado ubuhlalu indlugula umtika

ROMANIA ac chite ac cu gămălie cînduse altita cingătoare balt ciorap barbui cipcic barito cizmă basma cofta batistă colan bernec colier bertita conciu bete cretinta bitusca croĭtor blană cufaica bondita cunua boscele curea brăţară cusma brezarau cutaveica brîu czepesz bubou dantelă bumbac dimie buzunar duluma caciula fir caita fîstîc cămaşă flanyela canura fodra caseac fota catrinta fustă catrintoi fustar ceapsâ gheată chepeneag ghiordan chimir giubea chinius giumedanii Garments by Country 481 giuvaer pendej gluga pestelci guler pestiman guleras piele haină pieptar haĭne pieptarita iie pindileu îmbrăca pînză îmbrăcăminte pîslă in plisîrani încalţa minte polmesenic iner porasz ităr postav iupca posztólájbi karinca recal keptar rokoja kurti rubasca lájbi şapcă lecric şorţ libade sovanel lînă stofă lobogós sucna manta sumane mănuşă surt marama szurtuk mătase tàszli mînecare toloboni mintean tundra nasture tüsjö opinci uiose opreg ujjas pălărie văl pantaloni vîlnic pănură zavelci papuc zeghe papute zgarda pastura zgardan

RUSSIA arctic hare chakchiri baiberek cherkeska baronduki chirinka bashlik chlopok basmak cholst beshmet cossack cap botforti culok braslet’ doloman briuki-dudochki dragocennost’ bruki dragoonka bulavka dushagreia caracul dushegreya cebot epanechka cepec epauleti 482 Appendix B fartuk parochka fatas patrontache felon percatka fouraschka perednik furashka pestryad gaitan pidjak gimnasterka pidzak grenadierka plakhta igla plasc jubka plat’e kaftan platok kakofnitch poddyovka kamzol podopleka karman pogoni kartriz pojas kaska polakem kazachock polotno khalaty polu-kaftan kitel polushubka kithaika poneva kiver portnoj kokade pugovico kokoshnik ranetz kol’co riza koruna rubakha kosovorotka shirt rubakha kosovorotka koza rubaska kruzeno ryasa kruzhevo sapka kumach sapog kurtka sapogi kushak sarafan lampasi sbornik lapot selk len serst letnik shal materija shale mech shapka mentik sharf mundir sharovary naboika shinel navershnik shirinka nit’ shliapa obuv shnur odet’ shtany odezda shuba okhaben shushpan ozerel’e sljapa ozherelok soroki palto stany panaeva stikhar pantaloni stiliaga papaha stsepnoe papakha sukno parnoe surtuk Garments by Country 483 tashka veshovi meshok tcherkeska vojlok tkan’ vorotnicek treugolka vorotnik tufel’ vual’ tuflja zapáska tujurka zapon tulup znak valenki

SAMOA afe mumu sesega ai mumusali ‘apa memea nailoni ‘apamemea ‘ofu ario ‘ofuta ‘ele ‘auli ‘ofutino ‘auro ‘ofuvae ‘ava ‘ofuvae pupu‘u ‘avaaluga papa ‘efu‘efu pato‘i ‘ena pau‘meme‘i ‘ena‘ena pea ‘ena‘ena mumu pe ‘a fa‘amalu peleue fa‘amau penina fa‘ataelama pine faufautu piniki fuafuati pu fa‘amau fue puava fulu puletasi fusi pulou gatugatu pulou fa‘afao ‘ie pulou pepe ‘ie mafiafia sakete ‘ie valavala samasama kalauna se‘evae kola seleulu kosi semea la‘au su‘isu‘i siapo la‘ei silika lalaga silipa lanumoana siliva lava-lava solo lei solosolo lipine tagikeri lipine silika talafa ma‘a taua talama malo tali ‘ele ‘ele mata tioata tao ‘ofu mitiafu taonga moti taulima mua tautaliga 484 Appendix B tauvae uliuli tifa vali totoga veli uati

SARAWAK dangdong sirat

SARDINIA orbace

SCANDINAVIA sarafan

SCOTLAND arisard kelt Ayrshire work kilmarnock balmacaan kilmarnock bonnet bandle kilt bannockburn leine croich benn lovat biodag maud bluebonnet moggan boineid monteith breacan-feile moultan muslin breacan-guaille ósain brogan tionndaidh perlin brogues philibeg claidheamh-mor pirned cleòca Gaidhealach pirnie cotla-gearr pirny criosan biodag plaid dornick prine feilidh DPM raploch écossaise hat rock and reel feileadh-beag scone cap filibeg sgian-dubh fly plaid shell forfar sioda bun-duirn galashiels sowback gartain spangles gash sporan ghillie suaicheantas gillie suggan hodden tam-o’-shanter how targe hungback tartan Inverness skirts tonnag jirkinet trews Garments by Country 485 trotcozy wyliecoat tweed

SENEGAL kassa segu

SIERRA LEONE bla lome lappa dagba gulai nduli fandewai ndului garrankee njekloe garri cloth quande

SLOVAKIA aksamitka krpce baranice mentlíky bavlnka mentýk bezulánky obalenka cepec obradový kroj fertuch pentlení gate pisany lapti haleny podvika hastrigánky slavnostný kroj jojky súkenice kabátek svatební roucho kamrtusky sviatocný kroj kazdodenný kroj ubrus kosárky vonica kosírek

SOMALIA lunghi tusbahh madow usala

SOUTH AFRICA kapparings rholwani kappie schauslooper kaross skuinsdoek klapbroek tackies knobkerry toering poriaan veldschoen

SPAIN abrigo abrigo raglan abrigo cruzado abrigo trinchera abrigo en forma de capa acanalado abrigo polo acetato 486 Appendix B acetato de celulosa batista acordonado Bedford bayeta aguja beatilla ailerons benerica ajuar bengalina ala bermejo alas bermellon albornoz bernia albusado bigotera alcorque bilbo alepin bivertina alfiler blanco algodón blanco cremoso alhaya blonda alizarina blusa aljófar bocací aljuba bocaran almenadas boemio almete bohemio almizclera boina alpaca boina vasca alpargata bolsillo alta costura bolso altibajo bombazina amarillo borceguí ambo bordado americana bordado a mano anaranjado bordado con calados añil bordado con perlas anteojos bordado cortado ardilla bordado en blanco ardilla gris bordado plano ardilla parda bordado suizo argentería borde armiño borla arpillera bota asargado bote cuello astracán botinicos atrocelado botón avampiés botón suelto con espiga azafran bragas azufar bragon braz babero bragueta badana brahón baldrés brazalete banador breitschwantz baratea brial barcelona brocado barret brocado raso de pelo basquina brocatel bata corta brocato bata de casa bucaran bata de mañana bufanda baticol burdeos batín cabelleras postizas Garments by Country 487 caballeros carnaza cabesa casco cabestrillo casimir cabos castaño cabra de China castor cabrito castorina caceres cavalry cachemira cazapo cadenilla cebtí caderas postizas celada de engole cafe cenojil cafe claro amarillento cereza cafe rojizo cerrada cahemir cetrino cairel cettelle calcetería chaconada calcetin chal calcetines chaldera calçons chaleco calva chalino calzado chambergo calzas conpies chandal calzas enteras chapeo calzas largas chapiron calzaz de aguja chaqué calzón bombacho chaqueta calzoncillo chaqueta corta de marino cámara chaqueta corta y gruesa camarera mayor chaqueta deportiva cambray chaqueta para casa cambray liso charmés camisa charol camisa polo charretera camiseta cheviot camiseta con mangas cortas chiffon camiseta de mujer chifón campera chifón terciopelo campos chinchilla cañamazo doblado chinela cañutillos chopines capa chupa capa corta cinta capa larga cinto capa morisca cinturón capacete de Indias ciruela capellar clac caperuza clavos capichola cloche de fieltro capilla cofia capirote cofia de tranzado caqui cojin para hacer puntilla caracul colbac cardado collar carmeñola color aceitung carmin colorado 488 Appendix B colorante acido cuerpo baxo comadreja damasco comadreja de Siberia datilado conejo de lazo copa de todo lazo corbata delantal corbata ascot delantal de cintura corchete dengue cordellate deshilado cordero diseño cordero del Tibet diseño a cuadro cordero mongoliano diseño a cuadros escocés cordobán diseño a rayas cordon de zapatos diseño con lunares cordoncillo con alma diseño raya de alfiler cordonero diseño tradicional de piñones coronet disfraz corpiño doblados todos corse dobladura cotelé dos côtelé fino durazno cover dutis crea duvetina crema ebúrneo cremallera empeines cremallera separable enagua crep-satén enagua de lana crespón encaje crespón arena encaje chantilli crespón de Cantón encaje de aguja Crespón de China encaje de angel crespón de lana encaje de bolillos crespón georgette encaje de Lila crespón marroqui encaje de Malinas crespón musgo encaje de malla cuadrada crespón romano encaje de Milano cretona encaje estrecho de aldgodón crinolina encaje frivolité cubica encaje hecho a maquina cuello encaje suizo cuello bebés encarnado cuello bote entretela cuello burberry entretela fusible cuello capuchon eolica cuello chal escarlata cuello chino escarlata subido cuello de pajarita esclavina cuello eton escocés cuello mandarín escote cuero escote en U cuero de ante escudete cuero de cerdo esmoquin cuero de cocodrilo espulgeata cuero de marroqui esquirole cuero napa estameña Garments by Country 489 estofado gorro de dormir estofée gorro de marinero estopilla gorro de pieles faja rizada grain de poudre faja-calzón gran gola fajin grana encarnada falda granilla falda combinación gris falda con peto gris humo falda con tabla añadida gris parduzco falda envuelta gris ratón falda escocesa grisalla falda-pantalón gros gren faldita guanaco faldrilla guante falla contrama crespón Guard infanta faluchos guardamalleta faralafents guinda ferreruelo guinga fieltro guirnalda firmale gusanillo fleco harris felco bullion hault collet fleco morisco hembras foca herreruelo forro herrete forro de sombrero hevilla franela hiladillo franela de Canton hilo franela ligera holanda franjas hombrera fruncidas horsehair petticoat fruncido hueco de la manga fustan huke gabán hule gabardina ispahanis galerilla jamete galocha jipijapa galón jirones gambeto jornea gamuza joya garduña jubeteros garvín jubon gatos de lomos labrada gayado lana gayas lana de alpaca gemelos lanilla estampada glauco lavanda glotón lazo de entorchado golilla lechugilla gorguera lencería gorra lentejuela gorra deportiva leopard gorra escocesa leotardo gorro lienzo 490 Appendix B lienzo de algodón monograma lienzo de la India morado liga muaré limiste muletón de lana lince muselina linea imperio muselina de la india lino musequí lino irlandes mutria llano nankin loba nansú lobas compridas negro carbón lobe nesga lona nesgada luto nobleza madrás nudo mañanita nutria maneras ocelote manga ojal manga ahuecada ojales manga caída ojete manga dolman oliva manga gitana Oposum manga kimono or trect manga murciélago organdí manga raglán oro de orilla manopla oro hilado mantellina osito lavador mantilla osnaburgo manto oso manto de oraciones otomana mapache otomana imperial marabù painetta marcela paletó marfil paletoque margaritte palomita marinera pamela marlota pana marmota pana con cervaduras muy finas marrn paño marta paño de brunete marta cebellina paño de la tierra marta comú paño tuntido matelasé pañofieltro mechones panolones mechuelas pantalones bermuda media pantalones cerradoes por debajo de la rodilla medias mangas pantalones cortos medias y calcetines pantalones de baño minifalda pantalones de equitacíon mofeta pantalones de gimnasia Moiréseide pantalones de golf moletón pantalones largos hasta media pantorrillas moletón reversible pantalones sueltos monjil pantalones tejanos mono pantalones vaqueros Garments by Country 491 pantera portaligas pantuflas pretina pantuflo princesa pañuelo puertas pañuelo para el cuello pullover paraguas pulsera pardillo puño pardo puño ajustado pardo amarillento puño double pardo opaco punta roma pardo rojizo puntas parduzco puntilla partidor de crencha puntilla de Venecia pasa montañas punto a festón peinadore punto de almorafán pelele punto de cruz pelliza punto de malla pelo de castor punto de oro llano pelo de liebre punto de tallo peluca punto llano peñas veras punto real peplo purpua perle querpo perramus quezote pespuntaderas ramio pespuntado randas pespunte raso petit point raso de la China peto raso de zapatillas picado raso imperial picaporte raso liberty piel de angel raso muy brillante piel de becerro raso piel de angel piel de cisne raso piel de cisne piel de seda raso piel de seda piel de tiburón raso por trama pinza raso por urdimbre piqué redes plantillas redicella plateado redingote plato de lo gorro retículo plisado rojo plisado en abanico rojo Congo plisado en acordeón rollo plisado en sierra rondz plisado encontrado ropa pluma de avestruz ropa bastarda pluma de gallo ropa de estado plume de faisán ropa larga point d’espagne ropa rozagnte polaina ropilla polera rosado pollera ruedas pony ruedo popelina sacristan 492 Appendix B salto de cama terciopelo aplastado sarga terciopelo chifón sarseneta terciopelo con dibujo multicolor sastre terciopelo de Utrect satén terciopelo en relieve satineta terciopelo labrado saya terliz seda tirantes seda chape toca seda cruda toca de camino seda de corbatas tocado seda silvestre tontillo servilla topo shantung torzal skunk traje de baño sobaquera traje de baño de dos piezas solapa traje de baño de una pieza soletila traje de novia sombrerera trepats sombrero tricornio sombrero Cordobès tul sombrero de ala ancha turbante sombrero de caballero tweed sombrero de copa chistera velludillo sombrero de dos picos velo sombrero de paja verde sombrero de tela verde celedón sombrero flexible verde césped sortija verde limón sostén verde nilo suela verde salvia suspensor atletico verde trébol suspensores verdugado tabardo vertugale tabarete vestido de noche tafetán vestidos taparrabos vestir tejano vientre de ardilla gris tejido arrugado visera tejido calado visón tejido con pelo largo vivos tejido de punto elástico volante tejido de punto liso zafira tejido esponjoso zagalejo tejido liso zamarra tejón zamarro tela zapatillas tela de algodón mercerizado zapato tela de aspecto granulado zapato de mujer sin correas tela de Jouy zapato oxford tela para carpa zaragüelles tenida de gimnasia zarzahan terciopelo zorro terciopelo acordonado zueco Garments by Country 493

SRI LANKA hatte

SUMATRA siang-malam tampan

SUMBA hinggi lau pahudu hinggi kombu pakiri mbola

SUMBAWA kere pebasa

SUMERIA kaunakes

SWEDEN armband mös sa bälte nål bomull näsduk byxor pels fält-teken rock ficka ryssedamast filt ryssekläde flor ryssewerk förkläde siden gördel silke halsband skirduk handske skjorta hatt sko hatta skofium juvel skört kappa skräddare kareeta slöja kask socka kithaika söllstötter kläda spets kläde stövel kläder strumpa knapp Swedish lace la toffel läder tråd lärft Twelve Apostles linne tyg maljor ull mantel 494 Appendix B

SWITZERLAND androsame Schäppeli Appenzell embroidery schlappe beffschen Schnupftücher bredzon schöpen capadüsli Schweizergelb chapeau à borne stoffelkappe händschen trip-sammet haustuch tüchli menagere Türken-kappen rapolin unterrock rosehube volanten rosenadel wammiss

SYRIA agabanee tantoor izar

THAILAND

Chalong phra ong long raja phaa chet naa chiiwaun phaa chet paak chong kra ben phaa khaaw maa hua phaa pat chieng krachoom phaa sarong mat mii phaa yao mwa non prakhotaeo pah-jungobein rom paisin sabai pamsukula sabong panung sangkhatti pha ap nam fon sua yan phaa taalapat phaa biang thung phaa chet tiin

TIBET chupa dZi bead djore pulo drilbu shema

TIMBUKTU baiya kantje balga kobe gani djnne-djnne kugunni djorro-marabu kullu handu djere kunna hanga-korbo mdama kofe huttu nine-djere kamba iri pilu saluf Garments by Country 495 selba tche djenji selimut teybaraten djendji sonko tolomi sorro tyelambu

TIV akongo anger akpwem ashira amaua ashish amyan ikondo dzaan

TRANSVAAL ghabi mapoto jocolo pepetu linaga

TRINIDAD fol kandal glenglen wooloes

TUNISIA chechias kashabia dentelle Arabe kufia djebba mellia kachabia safsari kadroun suria

TURKEY

Anatolian silk ferace Anatolian wool feridge’ angora fez anteri gömlek antery houri-coat atlas igne oyasi basma jellick basmak kadife berundjuk kalghi bibila kalpak bughma kemha burqu kesdi çarsof khuff çatma kirk cepken kulah chalwar kulah-i pahlavi chekmak kusak chyrpy maharmah çipsip mendil dival oya isi dival isi oyah dizge pabuç 496 Appendix B potur terlik püsküllü thaub şal kuşak Türken-kappen salvar Turkish point lace sarawil üçetek seraser uçkar serenk yaka setre yelpaze stambouline yemeni tafta zerbaft takke zivka tarpus

TURKMENISTAN alan dangi kurteh balaq qirmizi don bilqusak qubpa börk qusak çabut telpek chargat teneçir gul yaqa yaluk köynek

UKRAINE corsetka kozhukh keptar plakhta kersetka svyta

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES aba igaal abaaya keffiyeh al hilel khirqa asayib kibr baalto kussabi bisht milfa burga mishlah burnous qutn burqu’ shaal farwah siklat gaib sirwaal ghoutra zibun

UNITED KINGDOM

À la George V alamode adelaide albangala Adelaide boot Albert boots Admiralty cloth Albert collar aetherial Albert driving-cape Agnes Sorel bodice Albert jacket Agnes Sorel corsage Albert overcoat Garments by Country 497

Albert pot beah Albert riding coat bearm-clap Albert shoe Beatrice parasol Albert top frock Beatrice twill Albert watch-chain beg Alexandra jacket belcher Alexandra petticoat bend alnage beret sleeve amelle besague American bhurra American cloth bibi bonnet American trousers billicock American vest binde Andaluse cape bivouac mantle andalusian casaque blue john angel overskirt body-stychet angel sleeve bollinger angle-fronted coat bonnet assassin Anglo-Greek bodice borada crape cloth anglo-merino botas ankle-jacks bote antigropolis botoun antique bodice botwm Apollo corset braccae Apollo knot braccas aquatic shirt bracer Aragonese bonnet braces Armenian cloak braecce artois buckle brandestoc aurifrisium bratt Aylesham brec azure brēc babet bonnet brec-hraegel baby bodice brech baby cap breichled baby French heel breost-lin backsters breost-rocc baende brethyn bag plastron brides bag-waistcoat British warm balesses broc ballet-skirt brodekin ballroom neckcloth brolly balmoral brummaggem balmoral bodice Brummel balmoral cloth bugis balmoral crape bul balmoral petticoat bulgare pleat bandle Bulgarian cloth Barbour jacket bum-barrel barclod bum-freezer barlingham burnley barmillion bursa basing buskins bēag butterfly bow sleeve 498 Appendix B cabbage cloke cadach clothe caefing clove caeles coat shirt caeppe coatlet cage coat-sleeve calc Coburg camibockers cochl campaign coat cockle hat cap of maintenance codrington cappa cœppe cappe coke careless coler caroline corsage colley-westonward carpet slippers combed helmet carpmeal combinations cascade waistband comforter cased body comforts cased sleeve continental hat cassock conversation bonnet cassock mantle coral currant button cassock vest corde du Roi castle cordey cap casul cork rump Catherine wheel farthingale corned shoe cauliflower wig cornet hat cavalier sleeve cornet skirt celestial Corsican tie cemes cossacks ceylon cot ceylonette cote chaffers coton chambard mantle cotoun chamford mantle cottage front chammer cotwm Charlotte Corday bonnet Courtauld crape Charlotte Corday cap cowes chemise a l’anglaise cranky checks chemise gown cravat strings chinese green crepe anglaise chinese spencer crepe imperial chitterlings crepelle circassian bodice crinc circumfolding hat Cromwell collar clap Cromwell shoe clāp cross-cloth clapes crusene clāpes crys clarence cuerbully Clarissa Harlowe bonnet cuffia Clarissa Harlowe corsage cuffie Clay worsted cuirass tunic cloak-bag breeches cuirasse bodice clœp cuir-bouilli clog Cumberland corset Garments by Country 499

Cumberland hat drillette curricle cloak driving-cape curricle dress Drummond curricle pelisse du Barry corsage cushion work du Barry sleeve cut-fingered pumps duchesse pleat cutlets duck-billed shoes cyrtel dundreary whiskers dalc dunster Danish trousers durance de Berri duretty de France Dutch cloak de Roi Dutch skeleton dress demi-surtout Dutch waist demob earthquake dress de-mob suit edau demy-teste eel skirt Denmark cock Egyptian brown devil skin elephant sleeve Devonshire eleven gore ripple skirt diadem bonnet ell diadem comb elliptic collar diadem fanchon bonnet eminence Diana Vernon bonnet emperor shirt Diana Vernon hat empire bodice dillad empire jupon dilladu empire skirt Directoire bonnet empress petticoat Directoire coat en tout cas Directoire hat English work Directoire jacket esgid Directoire skirt Eton cap Directoire swallow-tail coat Eton collar divided skirt Eton jacket divorce corset everlastings Dolly Varden bonnet exhibition checks Dolly Varden cap eyelet doublet Dolly Varden dress faces Dolly Varden hat Fair Isle sweater Dolly Varden polonaise false gown Doncaster riding coat false hips dorneck fan parasol d’Orsay coat fana d’Orsay roll fancies double fanfreluche bodice double bouffant sleeves featherbrush skirt downy calves feathertop wig drabbet feax-clap drape cut feax-net dress clip feax-preon dress holder fel dress lounge fetel dress protector fetels dress Wellington ffedog dresse ffwr 500 Appendix B fichu Antoinette Gladstone overcoat fichu Corday Glauvina pin fichu-robings gleindorch fifele glissade fig leaf glōf figgragulÞ godet skirt Flanders serge godweb fleax godweb-cynn flex golf vest florinelle gorchudd flower hole gored bell skirt flower pot hat gothic cap flow-flow gray lilac flycap greatcoat dress fly-fringe Grecian sleeve fly’s wing Grecque corsage folly bells Greek stripes forage cap grenadier cap forel guard-chain fotgewaed guinea cloth foundling bonnet gwddfdorch French gigot sleeves gwisg French gores gwisgo French hose gwlan frilling gwregys furre gyrdel Fusex shirt gyrdel-hring fustian gyrdels gable headdress gyrdels-hringe Gabrielle dress habit bodice Gabrielle sleeve habit glove gadlings habit-redingote Gainsborough bonnet hacele gairda haer-naedl gaiter bottoms haet Galatea comb haetera Galatea hat hairbines Gallo-Greek bodice ham Garibaldi bodice hances Garibaldi jacket hand fall Garibaldi sleeve handewarpes gemme handkerchief dress Geneva print ruff hand-ruffs gerele hand-scio gerife hare pocket ge-scripla harvard sheeting gewœde heafod-clap gewœdian heafod-gewaede ghost coat healsed gimstān heavy swell gipsy hat hed-clap giraffe comb heden girdel helmet cap girdle glass helmet hat Gladstone collar hemepe Garments by Country 501 hemispherical hat joinville hemming justcoat Henley boater kains here-pād kampskatcha slipper het kaniki highlows kano cloth hip buttons Kate Greenaway costume hod Katharine of Aragon lace hœtt kendal hoop petticoat kendal-green hop-pada kevenhuller Hortense mantle khanga hosa kidungas hosan kiss-me-quick hose-bend kite-high dandy hounds ears knee buckles house dress knee-fringe housemaid skirt knee-string hraegel krauss hraelung lake hring Lamballe bonnet hrycg-hraedel Langtry hood huccatoon languette hufe lavender hug-me-tight leather cloth hunting belt Leicester jacket hunting necktie lein hunting stock leþer hussar boots leperhose hussar jacket lether hussar point limbrick hwitel Limpet trunks Indian Lincoln green Indian necktie linen indispensible linsey Irish polonaise linsey-woolsey iron-pot Lissue Isabeau corsage listadoes Italian heel lobster helmet Italian nightgown lockram iuele long Melford iwede Louis XIII corsage jack M. B. waistcoat Jacobean embroidery macana jaganath macaroni cravat jam mackintosh Japanese hat madras gingham Java supers madras turban Jemima Maintenon cloak Jenny Lind costume major wig Jerry hat Mandarin hat Joan-of-Arc bodice maneg jockey cap Manon robe jockey sleeve Mantel jockey waistcoat manteel 502 Appendix B mantelet Muller-cut-down mantle lace mush mantua mushroom hat Marie Anglais bonnet mushroom sleeve mariner’s cuff muslin deaths Mark of the Beast musquash Marlborough hat naccarat marmotte bonnet Napoleon necktie marmotte cap Napoleons marquise bodice napron marquise mantle Neapolitan bonnet marquisetto beard nebula headdress marshmellow neck button martingale breeches necked bonnet Mary Queen of Scots cap nedle masher needlecord masher collar Nelson hat masher dust wrap neÞla matinée nether stocks Maud Newgate fringe Mecklenburg cap Newmarket coat Medici dress Newmarket overcoat Medici sleeve Newmarket top frock Medusa wig Newmarket vest Melton night coif mene night rail mentel night-kercher mentel-preon nithsdale meo Nivernois mermaid’s tail nodwydd mexican nœdl Mexicans Norfolk shirt Milan bonnet Norma corsage military frock coat Northampton lace military stock Norwich paramatta milkmaid skirt nostle mitten sleeve Nottingham lace modesty bit nun’s work modrwy Oatland village hat mofeler ocreae rostratae Moldavian mantle octagon tie Monmouth cap ofer-braedels Montague curls ofer-feng Montespan corsage oferlaeg Montespan hat oferlagu Montespan pleats ofer-slop Montespan sleeve ofer-slype Montpensier mantle ondina crinoline morning gown opus anglicanum morone opus consutum moschettos opus filatorium Mother Hubbard cloak opus pectineum moulds opus phrygium muffin hat opus plumarium mufflers opus pulvinarium Garments by Country 503 orel Perspective glass oval beaver hat Petersham cossacks overalls Petersham frock coat Oxford bags Petersham greatcoat Oxford gillies Petersham ribbon Oxford gloves petticoat breeches Oxford tie Philip and Cheney Oxonian boots Philip and China Oxonian jacket physical wig packing white Piccadilly collar pād piccadilly weepers paddock coat picture hat paida Piedmont gown pakama pierrot cape palatine royal pierrot ruff paletot-redingote pifferaro bonnet pall pifferaro hat pallatine pilece Palmerston wrapper pinafore costume pamela pipkin Pamela bonnet pique devant pamela hat placardo panel skirt plackard pannier crinoline placket pannier dress plain bow stock pantaloon trousers Platoff cap panteen collar pleated shirt pantile plus fours papoon pœll parchmentier poke bonnet partlet poket patent lace policeman’s cape patent leather boots Polish boots patrol jacket Polish greatcoat patti jets Polish jacket pea jacket Polish mantle pearl of beauty polka peasant skirt polo collar pectoll polonia peek-a-boo waist polrock peel polverino peg-top sleeves pompadour bodice pelisse-mantle poncho pelisse-robe porcelain Pembroke paletot pork-pie hat penang lawyer port manteau sunshade penistone Portuguese farthingale peplum basque powdering jacket peplum bodice prawing-spinel peplum dolman preen peplum jupon pregnant stay peplum overskirt prēon peplum rotonde Prince of Wales jacket Perdita chemise prince’s sleeve Persian vest princess dress 504 Appendix B

Princess Elizabeth lilac russells princess petticoat Russian blouse princess polonaise Russian flame princess robe Russian jacket princess slip sailor suit prœd sailor’s reef knot tie pudding-basin cut Saint Martin’s lace Puritan bonnet Saint Omer pussy-cat bonnet Salempore pynn salendang pyramid style salisbury pyramids salloo rabagas bonnet salt-box pocket raglan boot sanitary ball dress raglan cape sansflectum crinoline raglan covert coat Sardinian sac raglan overcoat satin Victoria railroad trousers satinesco railway pockets saucer-collar Ranelagh mob scalings rationals Scarborough hat reach-me-down Scarborough ulster reaf scarf drapery red lilac sceanc-bend reed hat sceanc-gegirla regatta shirt sceorp regency hat sciccels reister cloak sciccing religious petticoat scogger reowe scōh revers en pelerine scratch bob riding dress frock coat scratch wig riding hoop scrud rifeling scrydan rift scyfel Rigoletto mantle scyrte robin front sea coat Robinson hat sea-gown rocc sealskin coat rollers seamere rolling stockings Second Empire costume roll-up breeches selk roll-up stockings semptress bonnet rollups seolac Rosebery collar serc round dress sgyrt roundlet shadow roxalene bodice shakefold roxalene sleeve Shakespere collar Roxburgh muff Shakespere vest Royal George stock sherte Rubens bonnet ship-tire Rubens hat sho russell shoe-tie necktie russell satin shooting coat Garments by Country 505 shorts staeppe-scoh shotten-bellied doublet stafford cloth shoulder belt stamyn sengill shoulder heads stand-fall collar shoulder knots starch Sicilian bodice starcher sickly green statute cap sidan Steinkirk side stirrup hose side body stirrup stockings silverets stivali siolac stock-drawers skeleton suit stomacher skimskin stomacher bodice skirt ruff straight trousers skitty boot straight waistcoat skyrt strapped pantaloons skyteen strapul sleeve tongs strapula slife-scoh strips sling sleeve suit of ruffs sling-duster sultana scarf slipe-scoh sultane dress slop work sultane jacket smoc supertasse smoking jacket swallow-tails snoskyn swanbill corset snowflake swiftlere snowskin Swiss belt snufkin Swiss bodice snuftkin tablet socas tablier skirt socc tablier tunic socke tackover sortie de bal taglioni soufflet sleeves Taglioni frock coat soup and fish tail clout spangles taillour Spanish farthingale tallien redingote Spanish hat talma Spanish jacket Talma cloak Spanish kettledrums Talma lounge Spanish sleeve Talma mantle spencer cloak Talma overcoat spencer wig spencerette tattersall vest spennels tea jacket spider helmet teagown Spiderwork teiliwr splay-footed shoes tennis cloth splyter-hat tennis flannel spoon back tennis shoes spoon bonnet terai hat spring terre de Cuba spring boots terrier overcoat 506 Appendix B

Terylene ventilated pants threde Veronese cuirasse three-decker Veronese dress three-fold linen button victoria three-seamer Victoria bodice three-stories-and-a-basement Victoria bonnet thrum cap Victoria corset thrummed hat Victoria crepe thymel Victoria mantle ticket pocket Victoria pelisse-mantle tie-back skirt Victoria sleeve tight-slacks victorine Tilbury hat violin bodice tlws viyella toby ruff waed-braec tourterelle waefels Trafalgar turban walking out dress Trilby hat Wardle hat trocadero Wasti trolley lace Wastjōs trolly cap waterproof cloak trolly lace Watteau body trouser press Watteau costume trouser stretcher Watteau polonaise trowsus Watteau robe trusses wealca tubular necktie wearing sleeves tucked skirt wedding garter tudor cape Wellesley wrapper tunece Wellington coat tunic Wellington frock tunic shirt Wellington half-boot tunic skirt Wellington hat turf hat Wellington pantaloons turkey gown wheat ears turret bodice wheel farthingale tweedside wimpel tweedside overcoat winceyette twine wining Tyrolese cloak winingas Tyrolese hat winkers ugly Winslow lace ulster wœfels umbrella skirt wolle under-serc Woodstock gloves underwraedel worms university athletic costume wraed university vest wrapping front dress up-legen wrap-rascal vandyke dress wraprascal varens wrigels veile wull Venetian bonnet wulla Venetian cloak wulle Venetian sleeve yachting jacket Garments by Country 507 yak lace zone yeoman hat zouave jacket yoke bodice zouave paletot yoke shirt zouave pantaloons York wrapper

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

‘a ‘iku American green à la Marie Stuart ameti a tsi’kin Anasazi stripe twill a ‘ula Angouleme hat ‘a’a lole Angouleme spencer ‘a’a moni Angouleme tippet ‘a’a niu Anne Boleyn mob ‘a’a puhaka Annette Kellerman ‘a‘a‘a anuenue ‘a‘ahu apo kula ‘a‘ahu a po‘o apo lima ‘a‘ahu ali‘i apo papale ‘a‘ahu makaloa artificial silk ‘a‘ahu ‘oihana piha artificial wool ‘a‘ahu pawehe ashigappa ‘a‘amo‘o Augusta cloth abalone babushka acala cotton baby doll pajama acetate bachelor shoes ‘ahapi‘i badger whiskers ‘ahiehie barn-door britches ‘ahina barratine ah’ta qua o weh barvell ‘ahu Beatrice ‘ahu hinano Bedford cord ‘ahuna bellboy hat ‘ahunali’i Bemberg ‘ahuua bicycle clip ‘ahu’ula blouse suit ‘a‘i body stocking ‘a‘i kala boiled shirt ai ling booie sum ‘a‘ilepe Borghesé ‘ainakini Buchanan akaaka burial blanket akaka bush hat ‘akala Buster Brown collar ‘aki Buster Brown suit ala-niho cadet jacket ‘alapaka calico china button alaulau campaign hat alepin capa Alice blue cardinal Alsatian cathedral beard amaranthus color chanchanko ‘ameki Chanel suit American blade chau 508 Appendix B cheongsam forestry cloth chiang chau gai pee jau sa China calico gamoshes chint garrison cap chukka boot gau chau chun sam gau dai hai chya mun bo gau liang collodion silk gobanji Constance golosh cool pants grass embroidery coquillicot feathers grassets corset waist grazzets cossack hat gus-to-weh crocus hachimaki cue de Paris Häftler curch haiena curchef ha‘imanawa curled silk hainaka cursey cloth hainaka ‘a‘i dai fong chau hainaka lei dai seong siu kwun hainaka pa‘eke daimana hainaka pakeke dam boo lau hair à la Recamier dauphiness hair strings desoy halakea Diamond dyes halstuch din hamaku‘u diyugi hamo ‘ula Doitsu ahina hand doll hat haneeka e sa hanina ‘ea malani han’pa ‘ea ‘ula hau‘ina eau de veau ha‘ula eboni ha‘ula‘ula egasuri he‘a Eisenhower jacket Hershey bars ‘ekemau‘u hetchi pansu ‘ele hiwa Hibernian vest ‘ele‘ele hikoni ‘ele‘ele kanikau hili ha ‘ele‘i hili pa ha ‘eleuli hili pa kolu ‘emelala hinaka ‘epane hinaka ‘a‘i epani hinaka paeke ‘eponi hi‘ohi‘o Fatima robe hiyoku favorite H-line favourite hoakakala flannelette hock see hai flight boot hoi nong hu Flying Saucer hok see hai fong chau hokua forester’s green holei Garments by Country 509 holoku kaku obi holomu kalakoa hōmongi kalaunu hoo kalaunu bihopa hoo tau dai kalekonuka hoover apron kalewai hot pants kaliki huila kaulike kaliki waiu huka pihi kalikone hula skirt kalima hamo hulu kama‘a hulu hipa kama‘a hakahaka huluhulu kama‘a hawele hum-hum kama‘a ‘ie hummums kama‘a ili humu kama‘a laholio humu kaulahao kama‘a la‘i humu puka pihi kama‘a lo‘ihi humuhumu ulana kama‘a pale wawae humuka kama‘a puki humulau kama‘ehu humupa‘a kamaki humuwili kamalena hunakana‘i kampū Hungarian wrap kanakagi iakepi kanekopa iasepi kaomi lole ihu kama‘a kapa ‘ili kapa ea ‘ili hinuhinu kapa ‘ino‘ino ‘ili kuapo kapa kila ‘ili pale o kama‘a kapa komo ‘ili pipi kapa lau‘i ‘ilio-hulu-papale kapeila Imperial valley cotton kapeilo Isabella color Kapp Italian slipper kappa dachi jacket coat karanko geta Jackson shoes karauna jambieres karitone jin be wun kasimea jungle fatigues kasuri ka‘ai kasuri no shatsu ka‘ako‘o kaula ho‘olewa ka‘ei papale kaula li ka‘ei po‘o kaula li kama‘a kahan kaula uaki kahi ‘omou kawiliwili humuhumu kahiko kee ha hai kahiko kaua kela lole kaiapa ke‘oke‘o maoli kaimana ke‘oke‘o pia kakau uhi ke‘oke‘o wai kakimea keshinui kakinia kihei 510 Appendix B kihei ‘a‘ahu no‘eno‘e lei palaoa kilika lei pani‘o kilika lau lei papa kilika nehe lei papahi kinamu lei pauku kinihama lei pawehe Knöpflers lei po‘o koloa lei wiliwili koloka leki komo humuhumu li kakini komo lima li kaliki ko‘oko‘o ‘amana li kama‘a kopako lihilihi ‘ula kuakalikea lilina kueka lima kui humahuma lima puha‘uha‘u kui kaiapa Lindbergh jacket kui kele lipine kui lihilihi lokalio kui ulana lole kuiki lole komo kuka lole lauoho kuka ua lole moe po kuka weke lole paikau kuka‘a lole wawae kuka‘aila lole wawae moe po kukaenalo lole wawae puha‘uha‘u kulia lopi kunono lopi ho‘oholoholo kupe‘e lopi huluhulu kupe‘e niho ‘ilio lopi kaholo ku‘uwelu lowell cloth kwun lowerings la‘a lukini laeloa lulu ali‘i lahalile lu‘u ‘ili lai kee wat chau ma gua lainakini ma sa lakeke mackinaw lauoho makalena lauoho ku‘i makalena pu‘u lei makila lei ‘a‘i maku‘a lei ali‘i maku‘e lei hala malo lei hoaka malo kai lei hulu malo wai lei kamoe mama‘o lei kolona mameluke lei korona mameluke robe lei kukui Mandel lei leho Mao jacket lei niho ‘ilio maolua lei ole ma‘oma‘o lei ‘opu‘u marseilles quilting Garments by Country 511 mau‘u-la ‘ili palaka aloha mekala palalei melemele palazzo pajamas melemele ‘ili ‘alani pale mercury pale hanai Merry Widow pale kila mikini humuhumu pale maka mikini lima pale pakaukau ‘aila millium pale papale milo lopi pale wawae min nap palelei moelola palema‘i mok’kus sin palulu maka mong pao papa ‘aiana Monmouth cap papale Montana peak papale ali‘i Mütze papale hainika mu‘u mu‘u papale ‘ie mu‘umu‘u moe po papale kahuna nao-halu‘a papale kapu nao-ua-ha‘ao papale la‘a nao-ua-nanahuki papale mu‘ou‘ou napa leather papale ‘o‘oma Neapolitan headdress papale waiokila Nehru jacket papalu netcha pa‘u ngau hui suck pa‘u heihei niho-li’ili‘i pauma niho-mano peeler cotton ninikea pepeiao none-so-pretty petticoat bodice nonomea pihapiha-‘o-kohola oganadi pihi ‘ohelohelo pihi pulima ‘ohule pima cotton oi dai booi dai pine kaiapa ‘okanaki pine kaula‘i ‘oki pahu pine umauma okolepu‘u pinks and green Old Navajo Dyes pipi ‘opu‘u kaimana piwa haka orrice pohaku ‘oma‘oma‘o overseas cap poka‘a lopi ‘owili poka’a-pilali pa‘a kama‘a polonese pa‘a lole po‘o hina pa‘a mua po‘o ke‘oke‘o pa‘eke po‘o kuakea pahu papale popolohua paiki pa‘alima pound blanket pa‘ipa‘inaha pualena pa‘iua puamoamoa pakana puka kui kele pala ‘ehu puka pihi pala‘a pukai 512 Appendix B puke pakeke tesashi puki tignon pupu hoaka tin chiang chiang chau pupu lauoho tokeine pu‘ukohukohu tombeaux pu‘ukukui tongs qiana topaza ramall topazo rayon toreadoll pajamas rayonné tow red rippers tow cloth red russels trapeze ribine trilby Ridgeway buckle tuftaffeta rompers tutu mu’u rosario Twenty Grands Russian suit tyes sa din uaki sagathy uati Sam Browne belt uauahi sang chau ‘uha hipa sapaea uhi maka sapeiro ‘ula saredonuka ‘ula hiwa Scotia ‘ula maku‘e Sendai Hira silk ‘ula palani sensuji ‘ula waina shag mittens ‘ula weo sherry-vallies ‘ulahea shimmy ‘ula‘okoko short shorts ‘umi‘i kuapo shortcuts ‘umi‘i lauoho shu’lush ‘umi‘umi silver taupe uniform una siu fung sin ‘upa ‘oki nihoniho skilts uwaki skokie uwaki pulima slave blanket wahi slicker wai ‘ele sloppy joe wai ‘ele‘ele slops wai gula sook chau wai kula sou’wester waili‘ili‘i startups waist cincher strouding waki suburban coat watch cap suggan wedge weave blanket surf satin weleweka swing skirt weo tatquevluq wikolia teakete ya hoo lam teddies yi’chit tal teddy-bears zoot suit Garments by Country 513

URUGUAY bombachas

UZBEKISTAN chuppaun paranchah khalat tyubetevka

VIETNAM

áo Âu-phuc áo bà-ba âu-trang áo ba-ðò-suy bach-ngoc áo bành-tô bái ngà áo bò bàn chài quan áo áo bông bành-tô áo cam-bào bao bó áo cánh bao táo áo cà-sa bích-không áo choàng bich-ngoc áo côc biec áo cut bím áo da binh-phuc áo dài bít-tãt áo ðai-trào bít-tãt tay áo da-le bô cánn áo ðan bò-lu áo dãu bò-lu-dông áo ði mura bông áo ðuôi-tôm bõ-y áo giáp búi tó áo gi-lê búi tóc áo kép cái áo lan câm-bào áo lanh lót vài bông câm-châu áo len câ’m-nhung áo lông câ’m-y áo lót can áo lót mình cân-ðai áo mão cánh dán áo muta cánh-kien áo ngù cành-phuc áo nit cân-quac áo njt cap tóc áo tam cà-rá áo thày-tu cát-két áo thung ca-vát áo toi chàm áo vét-tông châm áo xiêm châu báu áo xõng chí hong aoidai choi-ngon áp long-bào chuði hat trai 514 Appendix B chuoi kep quàn áo cô’ còn kep tóc cô’ tay khan ðôi ðàu com-le khan mùi-soa cô’n-bào khan ngang cô-tông khan tang da khan tay da boc-can khan trum da láng khan tua da linh khan vaông da lon khan voông dalephuc khiên-churong dam-thanh kim cài ðãu ðan kim-bang ðang-ten kim-curong dây bang kim-khôi dây giãy kim-ngoc ðen lánh ki-mô-nô dinh cúc kim-thoa do kim-thuyen dò choé kính trang dò chói lá sen ðò orí láng ðõ sô gai lãnh ðôi bit-tãt le-phuc ðôi bông lon ðông-hò ðeo tay long-bào ðông-ho qua quít long-con ðung lót fu-la luroi gà ga-ba-ðin luroi-trai gãm lurort gãm vóc ma canh gián gau mã da cam gay má hong ghim bang mã-não giáp mang-tô giáp-bào mãu da giòi giáp-y mãu do giá-trang may san giay ta may-ô giay tây me-ðay giay tuyet mo gà gi-lê môt chiec gót môt ðôi guõc mu da hieu-phuc mu mán hoa cà mu miên hoa tai mui dát hoàng-bò ngac hoàng-ngoc ngân-tinh công-vu hòng-bào ngoc trao hong-ngoc ngoc-bích hung-phuc ngoc-miên huyèn-ðai ngoc-thach Garments by Country 515 nguyêt-bach thi-kính nhac-ky thuy-ngoc nhãn-kính to hoá-hoc nhung-trang trang bong ni-lông trang nõn nón trieu-phuc nón lá tru nón lông trúc-bâu nón sat trurng sáo núm tuyn nur-trang túyt-xo ô vài oc xà-cù vài bò ông tay áo vài bông pa-ðo-suv vài hoa phãn sáp vài long-ðình phãn son vài màn pháp-y vài to phuc-súrc vài trorn phu-la vài vóc pi-gia-ma vân quan vàng ánh quan cao-boi vàng ðo quan cháo lòng vàng huyên quan coc vàng khè quan con áo-cánh vàng muròri quân ðùi vàng ròng quan soóc van-hài quàn ta vãn-phuc quan xà-lon vat quân-phuc váy quân-phuc ðai-le vét-tông quân-phuc làm viêc ví tay quat quì vòng huyèn quõc-phuc vòng tai quynh vú già râu cam xà-cap râu dê xà-cur râu mép xám xì râu som xám-xit ren xanh biec sám ánh xanh biéc sám bac xanh da giò-i sám ðõm xanh da tròi sa-tanh xanh ðam soi xanh dòrn somi xanh durorng so-mi ca-rô xanh lá cây so-mi-dét xanh lo tang-phuc xanh ngát tap-de xanh tham tay áo xà-rông thanh-lam xiêm áo the xi-líp thiet-hài xong 516 Appendix B xu-chiêng yem dai xuyen y-phuc

YORUBE alari etu

YUGOSLAVIA pafte

ZAIRE bwoom mukyeeng ilaam mwaandaan kiing ncak mabiim ncaka ishyeen mapel ncok mbal nnup mbala nshiing mbala badinga nyeeng minyiing tukula moro

ZAMBIA bongos

ZIMBABWE vhulungu ha madi

ZULU ulimi umgingqo A ppendix C:Chapter Garment Title Types by Era

EGYPTIAN (4000–30 B.C.E.) aegyptium nekhaw afef nemehef ankh Nemes headdress as pano atef passium boukrania postiche calasiris procardium crook and flail pshente deshret sacred uraeus haik royal scarab heqat and nekhekh scaraboid herset schenti Horus lock Sekhemty kalasiris serekh kepresh sheath dress khenmet shendot khepesh shenti khesbed shenu klaft stibium kohl udju kyaphi was and tam mefkat wedja menat weret menyet wesekh nekhau

BIBLICAL (UNKNOWN–30 C.E.) afrikin dalmatikon appilion ezor ata falnis balneri famalniya begadim levanim funda bigdai tsivonim hagorah buros haluk

517 518 A ppendix C

Himmutsatha pateshehon impilayoth pilion istela polos isticharion purpurea itstela sarbalehon kalansuwa sargenes kalmus savrikin karbelathehon serapis kethoneth simlah kolob sudar kova sheberosho sudar sheal zero-othav liburnica sudar shebetsavaro maaporeth tavlin mechnesayim techeleth miktorin toga minalim unkelai paragod

GREEK (3000–100 B.C.E.) aegis kredemnon ampyz kyne anacholus lacerna apodesme linon apotygma nimbus Armenian rat peplos armilla peplos chiton baltion perizoma binary chiton petasos birrus phainoles byrrus pharos caissia phoinos ceryphalos phrygian bonnet cestus pilos chalmyeonchiton polos chlaine porphura chlamus saccus chlamydon sagos chlamys sakkos chloene sandalium coccum sandalon coracinus color soccus cothurnes soudarion cricket sphendome diphtera stephane diplax sticharion diploidion strophion doric chiton strophium faxiolion subrichion hectorean syrma Ionic chiton taenia kalyptra tebenna kolobium tellex kolobus tholia kolpos thorex Garment Types by Era 519 tribon zoster zona

ROMAN (753 B.C.E.–323 C.E.) abolla corona etrusca achates corona muralis acus corona navalis adamas corona radiata alicula crepida aluta luxor crotalia amethystus crystallus amictorium cuculla amictus cucullus amphimalla cūdō angusti clavi cuprius anthrax cyanus ānulus dalmatic armillae dalmatica babylonica stromata digitalia balneari drappus balteum electrum balteum militare epitoga balteus epomine beauty patches facitergium beryllus fascia brachiale feminalia braies femoralia bursa fibula cacci filum calamistrum flammeum calceolus focale calceus fucus calceus patricius galerum caliga galerus caligula gangetic cameleurion gausapa capillamentum gemma caracalla gonelle carbunculus greaves chausse impilia chrysolithus induere cinctus indumentum cinctus gabinus indusium cineflone infectore cingillum infula cingulum instita cingulum militiae interala clavi krepis cnemis lana coācta laticlaves colobium linteum corium lodix corona lorica 520 A ppendix C lorica hamata subligaculum lorica plumata succinta lorica segmentata sūdārium lorica squamata suffibulum manica supparium manitergium synthesis mappa textīle margarita textum māteria tibilaes molochine Tierfibeln monache toga monīle toga candida muleus toga cantabulatum nasitergium toga gabiana odonarium toga gibina odonium toga palmata olicula toga picta orarium toga praetexta orbiculi toga pulla orbis toga pura paenula toga sordida palla toga trabea palliolum toga umbo pallium toga virilis paludamentum topazon panni imperiales torque pannus torques papanaky tunica paragunda tunica alba patagium tunica augusticlavia pectorale tunica interior pērō tunica intima pestiman tunica laticlavia phaecassium tunica manicata pileus tunica palmata pilleus tunica taleris praetexta tutulus psila tzanga pteruges udo ricinium udones rose umbo saggum velleres fulvi sagmatogene velleres nigri sardius vellum segmentae ventus textilis sēricum vestes signum vestimentum sinus vestire smaragdus vestis soccae vestitus solea villi steatitis vitis stola vitta subermalis zancha sublagaculum zanga Garment Types by Era 521

BYZANTINE AND ROMANESQUE (400–1200 C.E.) amusse caracalla aurum filatum cyprense carmeillette aurum tractitium casul baende caul barbe cemes barbette chainsil basing chainse beah chape bearm-clap chausses beg chemise beguin ciclat bend clap binde clapes bliand cnaep bliant cnaipe bliaunt cochall bliaus cope bombycina corsage bote corse botoun cote braccae cotoun braccas cotta bracco cotte bractiates crinc braecce crispine braies crispinette bratt crusene brec cuffia brech cuffie brec-hraegel culpait breost-lin cyrtel breost-rocc dalc broc dalk broigne diaper brok English work bul escaffignons caefing eschapins caeles facings caeppe fallaing cagoule feax-clap cainsil feax-net calc feax-preon calce fel caleçons fetel calyptra fetels camise fifele camlet flex campagus fotgewaed cappa fouriaux cappe freiseau capuce friponne capuchon fustian 522 A ppendix C fycheux lerion galerum lether gallicae lettice gerele loros gerife lorum ge-scripla lumman girdel mafors girdelstede maniakes glōf mentel godweb mentel-preon godweb-cynnn meo gonelle mitons gonellone modeste gonne mufflers gown nedle gyrdel-hring nostle gyrdels ocreae rostratae gyrdels-hringe ofer-braedels hacele ofer-feng haer-naedl oferlaeg haet oferlagu haetera ofer-slop ham ofer-slype handewarpes orel hand-scio ósain headrail overslop heafod-gewaede pād healsed paragaudion hed-clap pedule heden pelicon hemepe pellicea hemming pellicia heuze phrygian cap hod hop-pada phrygium hosa pigache hoseaux pilece hose-bend poket houppe pouch hraegel prawing-spinel hraelung preen hring preon hrycg-hraedel reaf hufe reowe hugue rheno hwitel rifeling inar rift inde rilling iricinium riveling ispahanis rocc iuele sagum jupe saie jupel sarcenet lake say leine saye leperhose sceanc-bend Garment Types by Era 523 sceanc-gegirla stemma sceorp stephanos sciccels strapul sciccing strapula scipio eburneus super tunic scōh superhumeral scrud swiftlere scuird tablion scyfel thorakion scyrte threde secrete trabea serc tunece sherte tunic sho under-serc siglat underwraedel siglatoen up-legen sigle waed-braec siklat waefels skiradion wasjun slife-scoh wealca slipe-scoh wimpel smoc wimple snod wining socc winingas socke wolle soled hose wraed sottana wrigels spennels γoûva staeppe-scoh

EARLY GOTHIC (1200–1350 C.E.) acca baguette acton bainbergs aglet balandrana agrafe baleen agraffe bambergs aiglet barbette aketon barlingham alexander barmcloth almoner barmecloth amigaut barmfell anelace barmskin anlace baselard applebloom basen appleblue basinet aquerne batiste araneous bazan armure belette attaby besague aulmoniere besshe aumoniere beten aumuce bice Aylesham bise 524 A ppendix C bisshe chevesaille black-a-lyre chisamus blanchet cicimus blaunchmer ciclaton blaundemer ciclatoun blaundever cilice blauner cimier bosses cingulum bouchette cogware bourdon coif-de-mailles bracer coiffette braguette cointise branched velvet cordwain brassard cornalia brasserole cornu brayes coronet brayette corselet breech-girdle corset broella cotehardie brunete cotelettes burel cottereau burnet couters button crants bycocket cremyll bycoket crespine byrnie crisp byssine cristygrey calaber cubitière camaca cuir-bouilli camail cuirie cambric cuish camelin cuissard cameline cuissart camericke cuisse cammaka culan camoca culet camocas cyclas capeline Cyprian gold cappa clausa demijambe cappa nigra demivambrace carda dentelle caul device caurimauri diasper cendal diaspurum cendryn dogaline cervelière dorelet chaisel doublet chape à aige dunster chapel-de-fer ecarlate blanches chapelle-de-fer enarme chasuble enbraude chausse engreynen cheklaton épaulière chele epitoga chemise épomine Garment Types by Era 525 ermine hatere escarelle haubergeon esclavine hauberk estrain hausse col falding heaume falwe henke fana herigaute ferret-silke herlot figgragulÞ heuke fitchet heuze Flemysshe cloth Holland cloth flieder hollie point lace flurt-silke hringofinn serkr foot mantle huke foynes hure frontière imperial frounce jack fycheux jamb gadlyngs jambart gairda jambe galea jambeau gambeson jaque gamboised cuisses jaquette ganache jazerant gardebras Judenhut garde-collet juppe garde-corps kendal gardecors kendal-green garde-de-rein knop garnache la garnement lachet genouillieres lambrequin genuilli eres lein gibeciere lettice gige liripipe gipciere liripium gipon mahoîtres gippon mamelieres gipser mammelieres girdelstede mantle and ring gite marramas godalming melote gole mescolato gorget misericorde gowce moufles gris murrey grise neat’s leather guarnache neck-chain gueules opus anglicanum guige orle guimp ouch guleron ourle gypciere paida habergeon palettes habit pallets 526 A ppendix C pallettes schynbaldes paltock sciameto panni diasperati sclaveyn pansiere sclavine particolored sclavyn passemente scrip patte sempringham pattens sendal pauldron sendelbinde pautener siglaton pedule sindon pelisson sismusilis perse skōhs pied skull cap pillion slavin pinson snood plunket soccus point solers polayn solleret poleyns sorquenie pomme de pin soucane ponyet souquenilles porraye spaier pourpre spang pourpre gris splints pourpre sanguine stamel poynte stametto pranken stamfortis puke stivali punge stranlyng purfle suckenie quintise suckeny ray surkney raynes swire rebras sworl rerebrace swyrell reticulated headdress tabby riese taces robe longue tache rocket tackover romagnuolo tartarin roskyn tartaryn roundel tasse rowel tasset russet tavestock saia tawney samit thaub samite tilting-helm samyt tintillano sanguine tippet sarawil tiretaine sarciatus toley sarsenet tonlet sarzil touret scahwere touret de nez Garment Types by Era 527 tressoir wastjōs tresson watchet tressour wede tuille weed turkils weyd tussoire worsted vambraces wraed virly wulla volet volupere wadmel wasti

LATE GOTHIC (1350–1450 C.E.) almuce cingulum militare almuzi cloth of gold amônières sarrasinoises collet armet colletin armilausa corozoso aurifrisium corset bacinet coudieres bag cap courtepy baldekin courtepye bandekin cremisi barbute cress cloth barlingham crest cloth bascinet criss batwat cristygrey bellows sleeve cukar bicoquet cushion headdress bourguignotte cushion work bourrelet dagswain bracconiere demysent bracer escoffion braconniere estaches braguette false sleeves brigandine fenetres d’enfer butterfly headdress fermail caban figury calata finger gauntlet candlewick folly bells cappelina forked beard carcaille fret cassis frette caurimauri frog-mouthed helm ceint frontlet cervelliera frounce champaigne cloth fu tou champeyn gaberdine channon cloth gadlings chaperone galero chaussembles galoche chausses semellées gimnel-ring 528 A ppendix C goffered veil parrock grande-assiette sleeves piked shoe haincelin pokeys hanging sleeve pomander harlot pople harlots poulaines haube pourpoint haubert à maille double pudding-basin cut haubert clavey de double maille salade haubert doublier sarpe heafod-clap sarrasinoises hennin scheckenrock houppelande serpe houppelande à mi-jambe shiu tian yi housse sideless surcoat huke simarra huque simarre huve sorket journade spangles jupon steeple headdress kall tabard kareeta tappert kettle hat tarf kettyl hat tater kruseler headdress templers lamboys temples langet templettes langettes tewke lendener tocco maljor toghe mang tonlet marbrinus touaille maskel lace troussoir miniver truffe napron truffeau nebula headdress tuft nifles tuke nightcap turf nun’s work turkey bonnet opus consutum tyrf opus filatorium wammes opus pectineum wedding knives opus phrygium white scarlet opus plumarium xie zhai opus pulvinarium ying long pale zache paltock zadblauwen

RENAISSANCE (1450–1550 C.E.)

à gomito aghetto à gozzo agugello adarque aiglet affiquet ailerons Garment Types by Era 529 alas Beringt albornoz bernia alessandrino besague aljófar bianchetto aljuba bigio allucciolati blackerybond almain coat blackwork almayne rivet blanc haubert almenadas bocaran almizclera boccaccino altibajo bodkin-beard anadem body stichet anime body-stychet anteojos bohemio appicciolato bokasyn argentería bombasino armes à l’épreuve bombast arming-bonett bongrace arming-hose botinicos armure cannelée bottoni atrocelado boulevart attiffet bragetto avampiés brahón azufar branc badana brassière baft bredon bagging shoe breeches baize brial baldrés brichette balesses bridgwater balza Bristol red balzana brocado raso de pelo balzo brochetta bamagia brodekin barbe brogues barbette Brunswick cloth barret bruschino barthaube bruststück base coat Buckinghamshire lace bases buckram basquine buffin baticol bufle Battenburg lace buratto lace baudekyn busc bauson skin busk bavolet buske bear’s paw busq beatilla busque beaupers caddice garter beck caddis leather beguin cadenilla benda caderas postizas benerica caffa bents cairel berettino cale 530 A ppendix C calpac cordeliere calva cordellate calzas conpies cordonero calzas enteras corked shoes calzas largas corned shoe cámara corner cap camarera mayor cornet cambelloto cornette camocho corps a baleine cannequin corps piqué cañutillos cotehardie capelina cotswold capellar cotta de maglia caperuza couleur-de-roi capilla cramignole capirote cremesino carpmeal croppes carpmeal white cuaran carrel cuerpo baxo castle cut-fingered pumps cater-cap cyprus caungeantries dagged cebtí dalk celada de engole damaschino cenojil de lazo ceruse demiceint cettelle demi-gown chaffers demipauldron chamarre demy-teste chammer deshilado chapel d’acier dilge chapel de Montauban doblados todos chapiron dorneck chatelaine dorso chaussons dos chianetta dossière chinela dou niu chupa double chymer doublet cioppa drawers clavos drum farthingale cloke duck-billed shoes close-gauntlet durance clot duretty cly eared shoe coazzone Eisenkappe cod-placket elbow cloak coffer headdress elbow gauntlet cofia de tranzado elbow-cops colley-westonward elmo di giostra colorado empeines colori corozoso encarnado conch English hood cophia English work coppo entretela Garment Types by Era 531 ermellini gayas escaffignons gefrens espulgeata gemmews esquirole genouillieres estameña giardinetti rings estofado gimstān estofée glandkin estrich glib estridge goller estrith gömlek everlastings gooseturd greene falda gorgias faldia gorguera faldrilla grana fall grana encarnada farthingale grano d’orzo fautre graundice fazzoletto gregues fei yu grigio felted knitting gualescio fents guards fermaglio guazzerone filetto halecret finestrella half shirt firmale halshemd flea-fur handewarpes flipe harden flocket hault collet flourish hausse col forest cloth hembras forest white Hentzen fraise herrenhutte franjas herrete French cloak heuke French hood hevilla frenello hiladillo frieze hive frill hodtrene frisure d’or holanda frizado hollow lace frontlet hoqueton frose paste horsehair petticoat fruncidas huke gabano inkle gabardine Italian cloak gabbano jirones gable headdress jornea galloshoes jubeteros galosses jubon gamurra Kamfhandschuhe garanza kirtle garvín kyrtill Gates of Hell labrada gatos de lomos lacca gayado ledersen 532 A ppendix C leefekye nesgada lemister nether stocks lemster night rail lienzo de la India nycette limiste occularium lista oes little hennin ojales llano or nué loba or trect lobas compridas oro de orilla lucco oro hilado maglia piatta packing white magliette pagonazzo maheutres palet mahoîtres paletoque mainfaire palo di lione mairtíní pampilion mancheron pannicelli maneras pannus sine grano maniche á comeo paño de brunete manopla paño de la tierra manople paño tuntido manteline pantofle mantellina pantuflo manto paonazzo margaritte pardillo marlota partidor de crencha marlotte partlet marquisetto beard passe-filon martingale breeches patelet Mary Stuart cap pavonazzo maspilli pectoll mechones pee mechuelas peinadore medaglio pellanda medias mangas peñas veras mene perle mezail perlin Milan bonnet pespuntaderas milk and water petto mockado pianelle mofeler picado monachino pilus tinctus morello pizane morion placardo morisco work placcards musequí placcates must deviles plackard mustard villars plantillas mustardevelin plateado mustardevillers Platner myllion Pleasance nabchet plodan naqsha pretina necked bonnet puertas Garment Types by Era 533 punta sussapine punto de almorafán tambour punto de oro llano tasseau punto in aria tassel punto llano testière punto real thrummed hat qilim timbre quezote tippet rabat toca de camino randas tock raploch white toocke raso toque reta torzal ritterhute traguardo roanes tremolanti robe à plis gironnés trepats robe de commune at ancienne guise trinzale robe déguisée trouses robe gironnée troussoire rollo trowses rondz trunk hose ropa bastarda tuck ropa de estado tuly ropa larga turchino ropa rozagnte turf rosato turkey gown ruedo tylesent russell under cap russells velette sagetta venera Saint Martin’s lace verdingale saya verdugado sbernia vertugadin Scheitelstuck vertugadin francais sea coat vesses sea-gown vivos sella voided shoe servilla volante shakefold wearing sleeves shamew wedding garter shoe horn welt showing horn whalebone bodice side whalebone bodies skin-coat wimpled slashings wings sleaved silk woolward slips zarzahan solleret zazzara splay-footed shoes zendado splyter-hat zendale stamyn sengill zimarra stomacher zoccolo stringhe zywr sugar-loaf bonnet 534 A ppendix C

ELIZABETHAN (1550–1625 C.E.) aglet biretta alb bishop’s mantle albangala black lace Albanian hat bodies, pair of Alcorque bodkin almain hose bodkin cloth almain rivet boemio anima boershabijt ankle-breeches Bologna crape anlet bone lace annelet boratto annulet borceguí apparel borst armet bouwen arming bolster bragoenen arming doublet bragueta arming points bride lace asooch brigandine atlas brogetie Ave Maria lace brogs baby cap buckler bag Holland budge bairam buff jerkin bairami bullion hose baldric bum-barrel baldrick buratto band busk point band strings buske bandileer buskins bandoleer busq bandolier busque barrel hose bustian barrette byramee basquine byrampaut baudekin byrams baudekyn byramy baudricke cabaset bavarette cabasset bawdric cabbage shoestring bearams cabbage-ruff bearing cloth cabestrillo beaver caleçons beiramee calico bents calimanco beram calton beronis calzaz de aguja bevor cambric biggin camericke biggon cañamazo doblado bilbo cane color biliment canions bill cannon sleeves billiment cantaloon Garment Types by Era 535 capa cross-cloth cap-a-pie armour cuff strings cape à l’espanole culot capouch cushionet capuch cut linen work caputium cuttanee carcanet dalmatica cardinal white damasellours cardows damasin carkanette datilado carkenet de todo lazo carnation dead Spaniard carnaza demi-castor carriages Dieppe point lace cartoose collar dogskin cased body dowlas castor drawings out catalowne drawn work catalpha dreumelthoelje catgut lace dust gown cathedral beard duster Catherine wheel farthingale Dutch cloak chamblette Dutch waist chausses en bourses ear string chaussures à cric eelskin sleeve chaussures à pont-levis ellementes cheney English farthingale cheveril etui chicken skin glove eyelet doublet chimere falling band chin-clout farandine chiveret fardegalijn chopines farthingale cloak-bag breeches farthingale breeches clog farthingale sleeves close cap ferreruelo cobweb lawn ferret cockle hat fers codpiece fieltro coiffure à la Ninon Flanders serge coiffure en cadenettes floramedas coiffure en raquette flower pot hat conch flycap conque forepart copatain French hose copitank French ruff copotain French sleeves coquard friponne cordobán frislet cordouan frouting cornet galerilla countenances galligaskins crane color galocha crespe gamashes cross gartering gansbauch 536 A ppendix C garlicks liga gaskin lijf gauntlet Lincoln green gestaltrock linsey-woolsey gingerline linstock ginglers loo mask Golconda chintz loretto golilla lower stocks goose-turd lustie-gallant gran gola mage gregesque maiden hair Guard infanta maide’s blush habit mandilion hair mantilla halsneusdoek marumage hammercut beard Masulipatam chintz hand-ruffs Medici collar hangers milk and water harzkappe modeste heerpauke monial herreruelo monjil hollow lace Monmouth cap huik montero incarnate monteroe Indian gown Moorish lace Indian nightgown moto-yui indiennes moulds jack boot mountero jack chain murrey jack leather nachttabbaert jaseran napkin jerkin napkin hook jessamy gloves Naples lace Judenkragen neerstick kanzasi nettlecloth kasacken night coif kennel headdress night-kercher kirtle Norwich crepe kittel nun’s thread kletje onderriem klier onderzieltie knee breeches orange tawny knee-string oriellettes kolbe orphreys kolder Oxford gloves kroplap panseron kusi panses kyara-abura pantuflo lap-mantle pass latchet peach lawn peak lace lechugilla pearl of beauty lettice bonnet peascod belly lettice cap pendicle lettice ruff peropus Garment Types by Era 537 perpets scabilonians perpetuana scalings perspective glass scapulari piccadil scavilones pilch schaubelein pilche secrete pileus servilla pinion shadow pinking shag-ruff pipkin shakefold pique devant sheep’s russet placard ship-tire placket shotten-bellied doublet pluderhose shoulder belt plummet shoulder heads plunket shoulder straps poke simada poking stick sirge debarabon poldavis sister’s thread pomander skimskin ponyet slesia lawn popes ministers slops popinjay small slops portefraes snoskyn primrose snowskin privy coat snufkin provincial rose snuftkin puffjacke soletila pug sombrero puke spagnolet pullicat Spanish cloak pullings out Spanish farthingale purl Spanish hose putting stick Spanish kettledrums quail-pipe boot Spanish leather querpo Spanish morion querpo hood Spanish needlepoint ramall Spanish slops rat’s color spere rattan speyer rebato spider helmet reister cloak starch reitrocke startop rennrocklein startups reticello statute cap ropa steutelreecx ropilla stock-drawers roundlet stomacher ruff strammel ruiterrock straw rullion strossers sagathy suela safeguard suit of ruffs Saint Omer supertasse sangyn supportasse 538 A ppendix C surplice vasquine tabbaert venetians tablet ventoye tail clout verdugado takenaga vertugadin tassettes vest tennis shoe vexillum tobin visor tobine visscherspij toilet vlieger toilet cap Waborne lace tongs wappenrock tontillo watchet trawerbandes wedding gloves trusses wheel farthingale tucker whey tuichje willow turnover wing twillet zaragüelles under proper zueco upper stocks zukin

CHARLES I AND THE COMMONWEALTH (1625–1660 C.E.)

Augusta fält-teken baby Stuart cap fancies balagnie cloak favors batts figurero bei yen figuretto bend-leather filozella bisette filozetta bourdalou firmament bucket-top boot fob pocket bull’s head fringe French fall cachelaid French pocket cadanette fustian anapes cadenette galants casaque gallants chadoe garcettes chang fu Geneva print ruff chao dai girdle glass chao gua glove-band chao guan gourgandine chao pao gulik holland chao zhu gun fu chau fu half-beaver chivaret hand fall coiffure à la moutonne historical shirt colberteen hollmes colbertine Hungerland band collet monte Hungerland lace cravat Indiennes devantiere iron-pot falling band jabot Garment Types by Era 539 jerkin polonese jerkinet polonia ji guan pu fu kithaika religious petticoat ling yue rhinegraves lobster helmet robe de chambre lodier robe volante long pao rochet mandeville rond mang pao roquet manteau Sedan lace mantua maker serpentaux mantua woman shag meurtriers sheep’s gray mogul breeches sherry-vallies monté la haute skirduk morella de Venus skofium mouchoir sleeve hand nagdeh smock petticoat neck button snake Northampton lace solette novato soulette okhaben Spanish boots ollyet Spanish breeches orange-butter Spanish hose osbro stirrup hose pantile stirrup stockings passagers surpied patna tian ze petticoat breeches ticklenburg philiselie vigone philoselle whisk pinner whittle pintado xiang se

RESTORATION (1660–1700 C.E.) alamode campaigne amadis sleeve caroline hat Antwerp lace casaque araignée méditant un crime cassock baiberek caudebec hat banyan caul barratine cawdebink berger chaconne bib-cravat cheats binette chite boot hose chitterlings Brandenburg choux breadeen confidents breidin cordyback hat camisole crapaud mort d’amour campaign coat crapaud saisi campaign wig cravat strings 540 A ppendix C creve-coeur lavaliere cruches mante cul de Paris manteau culotte Mazarin hood dildo mousquetaire duchess muff bracelet echelon out-coat elatch palisade elatcha pallatine falbala pantaloons fal-lal paragon flandan Persian vest fontanges Philip and Cheney frangipani perfume Philip and China frouze plumpers full bottomed wig point de sedan furbelow Portuguese farthingale gamoshes queue gougandine rabat heart-breaker renforcée hip buttons rollers hounds ears rolling stockings hurluburlu roll-up breeches hurlupe roll-up stockings jackanapes rollups Jacobean embroidery sacristan jockey boot scallop jockey cap settee jockey sleeve shell jumps shoulder knots justaucorps soieries bizarres knee buckles sorti knee-band sortie knee-fringe souris éffrayée knee-piece Steinkirk knee-string strips

EARLY GEORGIAN (1700–1750 C.E.)

à la Maintenon bahut adrienne bandore aiguillette bandore peak ailette barkit alajah barleycorn aleejah beaudoy alepine beguin anabas bergere hat andrienne bicoquets anserine binder anterne blancard armazine bob-wig armozeen bonnet cabriolet armozine boot cuff bag wig braiel bagnolette breast hook Garment Types by Era 541 breast knot falls brillianette false gown broglio-broglio false hips Brunswick fan hoop buckled wig fantail wig busby fearnothing jacket caffoy festoons cambresine filleadh beag capote fingroms carrodary fly-fringe casaquin fly-suit caul fob ribbon caxon follette chain buckle fortop chancellor furbelow chapeau-bras gallowses chapska galluses chemisette gentish cherryderry German serge cockers glove string cocrez gown à la francaise coggers grassets coiffure en cadenettes grazzets cokers gridelin colmar grogram common dress gros vilain vert considerations gulik holland cotellae gulix crapand habit glove crapaud habit shirt Cremona cravat haiduk criardes hair-lace cross pocket half handkerchief cupola coat Hamilton lace cut-fingered gloves harlem stripes denim harrateen desoy hasp Dettingen cock hongreline domino inderlins Dorset thread button jambee cane dorsetteen jansenistes drab jemmy cane dragon’s blood cane joseph drawboys justcoat duroy kall Duvillier wig kilmarnock elbow cuff kincob elminetta kinkhaib engageantes kissing-strings English nightgown kountouch English ringlet lappet equipage le crapaud facings leading strings falbala livery lace fall long Duvallier 542 A ppendix C lustring pug hood lutestring purnellow lutherine Quaker hat Malacca cane qualitie Manchester velvet queue mantee quilted petticoat manteel quitasol mantle quizzing glass mantling Ramillies wig mantua ras de Sicile Marseilles embroidery ras du more Mazarine hood riding habit medley riding hoop modestie robe longue modesty piece robin moreen robings muckender roquelaure muff rosadimoi muffetees rotonne nabob ruffled shirt napkin-cap russaline neck handkerchief sablé neckstock sabretache negligee sack gown night-cap wig sacque nithsdale sagathie oiled leather sagathy oilets satinesco orgagis scratch bob orris scratch wig padou selisie lawn paduasoy sergedesoy panier a coudes sergedusoy paniers a bourelets shaving hat paniers anglais shell panniers shift papillotes silesia parament slammerkin passacaille sleasy holland passecaille slivers perruque quarrée slyders perse snail Persian snail button pet-en-l’air solitaire petits bonhommes soosey pigtail wig spatter dashes plumage spencer wig polakem spit-boot pompon stalk button powdering dress stay hook powdering gown stock buckle powdering jacket superfine pretintailles swanskin prince’s stuff tabby pudding sleeve tabine Garment Types by Era 543 tammy tuftaffeta tatas tufted dimity temple spectacles tye tête de mouton umbrella robe thrum cap undress thunder and lightning vergette a la chinoise tiffany Watteau hat tobin Watteau pleat toilet wildbore top Woodstock gloves toupee worms toupet wotenall thread treillis wrapping gown trollopée wrap-rascal tucker wraprascal

LATE GEORGIAN (1750–1790 C.E.)

à la Farare buffonts à la Figaro butterfly cap à la Marlborough cabriole à la plaquette cadogan à l’innocence reconnue calash Adonis wig capuchin adrienne caputrock aile de pigeon caraco amadis caraco à coqueluchon an nouveau desire caraco à la française artois caraco à la polonaise artois buckle caraco gown au globe fixe’ caravan badine casaquin en juste baigneuse catogan balloon hat cauliflower wig bavette chapeau à la Basile bicorne chapeau à la Cérès blucher chapeau à la Charlotte boisson chapeau à la Chérubin bonnet à la crête de coq chapeau à la Colonne bonnet à la laitière chapeau à la Devonshire bonnet à la moresque chapeau à la Grenarde bonnet à la Richard chapeau à la turque bonnet à la victoire chapeau à l’égyptienne bonnet aux trois ordres réunis chapeau à l’italienne bonnet demi-negligee chapeau au bateau renversé bonnet négligée chapeau de Cardinal bootikin chapeau jockei bosom bottles chapeau-bras bosom flowers charlotte boudoir cap chemise à la Reine bourrelet chignon flottant Brussels camlet chip hat buffon circassienne gown 544 A ppendix C clouded lustrings fichu menteur clubwig Fitzherbert hat coiffure à la conseillere flea coiffure à la Dauphine florinelle coiffure à la enfant flounce coiffure à la Eurydice frac coiffure à la Flore French frock coiffure à la Junon frizz wig coiffure à la qu’ es aco fustan coiffure à la Reine Gainsborough hat coiffure à l’anglomane galante coiffure au chien couchant garnet coiffure en chien couchant gaze à bouquets coiffure en moulin à vent gaze de fantaisie coiffure en parterre galant geknauften kogeln cork rump Genoa velvet costume au grand Figaro German gown court habit gilet vest court plaster glocken crape gorge à la Gabrielle d’Estreés creoles gorge de pigeon crocus gown à la française crop gown à la levantine cul de crin gown à la polonaise cul postiche gown à la sultane curch gown à l’anglaise dannocks gown à l’insurgente dauphiness gown and coat de frivolité grand domino death’s head button grand habit demi-tablier grand habit de cour Denmark cock grande pelisse d’hiver Devonshire hat grande redingote à l’allemande dittos grande robe à corps ouvert dormeuse grande robe à la française dormouse gueridons downy calves habit Dresden work habit à la française earthquake dress habit de demi-gala en dos d’ane habit d’escalier en échelle de Jacob hairbines en fourreau lace half silk en platitude half-dress en pouf hat screw en pouf à la Luxembourg hedgehog hairdo English gown highlows esclavage hoop petticoat esquavar hum-hum fantail hat hummums fausse montre Irish polonaise favorite Italian heel favourite Italian nightgown fazolo jasey feather-top wig jin huang fichu Joan Garment Types by Era 545 kampskatcha petit-maître kampskatcha slipper petit-maîtresse kenting physical wig klapbroek Piedmont gown konfederatka pierrot kurtka pigeon-winged toupee lamballe pinchbeck button laylock poches le gilet polonaise levite polonaise à deux fins levite gown pompadour liars pompadour heel lilac porcelain button lilack poufs au sentiment Limerick gloves prudent love lock prune de Monsieur lunardi pudding cap macaroni cravat Pultney cap macaroni suit quadrille head major wig quartered cap manchettes Ranelagh mob manteau à la cavaliere redingote à l’amazone manteau à l’italienne redingote du matin mantelet au lever de l’aurore redingote en Backmann mariner’s cuff riding habit marsina robe à la circassienne Mary Queen of Scots cap robe à la française massereen blue robe à la levantine Mecklenburg cap robe à la polonaise mecklenburgh robe à la Reine menteurs robe à la Turque mercury robe à l’américaine mignonette lace robe à l’anglais military stock robe de cérémonie à la française mirliton robe parée miser’s purse robes de fantaisie mob-cap round dress morning gown round gown neckatee scarlet negligee de la volupte serge de soy nightgown serre-tête Nivernois shade noeuds d’amour shoepack none-so-pretty skilts olive button slops olivette Spanish paper papeline spring boots parapluie suit parasol à canne swallow’s nests parchment calves swan’s down parfait-contentement swansdown pelerine taffeta lustré pencilled tambouring Perdita chemise Teresa petite robe unie Thérèse 546 A ppendix C top boot vallancy toque à la Basile vandyke toque à la Grande Pretesse vandyke dress toque à la Susanne vermicelli toque à l’Iphigenie vêtement à la Créole trolly cap wai tao trompeurs yallow tulle zone turban bonnet Zopfzeit

DIRECTOIRE AND FIRST EMPIRE (1790–1815 C.E.)

à la Titus cabriolet à la Victime cache-folies aerophane cadenat Agatha robe Caledonian silk alliballi calypso chemise amadis canezou amaranth cannetille amaranthus color cantab hat amazones cantoon andalusian casaque cap à la Charlotte Corday anglo-merino capot-ribot Angoulême hat capriole Angoulême tippet carmagnole Anne Boleyn mob carmine Apollo corset caroline spencer appas postiches carthage cymar arched collar casbans Ayreshire cased sleeve Ayreshire work casimir bag bonnet casque à la Tarleton balantine chapeau-bras balucher charicari banditti chemise à la greque barouche chemise à l’anglaise basane chemise gown beehive bonnet chenille beehive hat cherusque benjamin cherusse Betsie chinese spenser bishop’s blue circassian hat bivouac mantle circassian sleeve Bonaparte helmet circassian wrapper bosom friends clarence blue bottle-green clawhammer tails boucle d’oreille à la guillotine coalscuttle bonnet Brandenburg fringe coatee Brighton nap cockade brocatelle coiffure à la Chinoise Brummel bodice coiffure à l’indisposition Brutus cut coiffure en bouffons Brutus head wig colback buckskin collerette Garment Types by Era 547 comforts French gores conversation bonnet French net conversation hat frisé coquillicot feathers frizé cordey cap fugitive coat cornet hat garrick greatcoat cornette Georgian cloth corset gipsy hat corset frock girdle à la victime cossack hat Glengarry cossacks gorgoran costume á la Constitution gossamer satin cottage bonnet gown à la turque cottage front Graham turban coups de vent greatcoat dress coureur Grecian robe court sleeve cuff Grecian sandal crepine gros de Naples curled silk gros de Tours curls à la Greque habit degage curricle cloak hair à la Recamier curricle dress hair à la Romaine czapska half boot demi-converti helmet cap demi-tunique hessian demi-turban Hibernian vest Devonshire brown Hungarian vest dinner cap Hungarian wrap dorretteen hunting belt douillette Huntley bonnet douillette à la Russienne hussar boots drab style Hussar buskins droguet Hyde Park bonnet drugget indispensible Dutch bonnet Italian slipper eau de veau jaconas ecrouellique jaconet Egyptian brown jaconette en colimaçon Jan de Bry coat English chain Jean de Bry coat escarpins jockei esprits jockey bonnet faces jockey waistcoat fall jonquille fan parasol joseph Fatima robe juive fichu menteur kerseymere filé kutusoff hat fleshings kutusoff mantle florence lamé Florence satin lampas flushing hat Lavinia hat flying josie Liberty cap fogle liseré forage cap litewka 548 A ppendix C mameluck plush mameluke poire mameluke robe poissarde mameluke turban poke bonnet manchette de cour Poland mantle manilla brown Polish greatcoat marabout feathers polrock marceline Pomona green Mathilde pomposa Medusa wig porc-epic melon sleeve porcupine headdress mexican pourpre Minerva bonnet pregnant stay mirliton Princess Augusta poke mistake Princess Elizabeth lilac mistake hat Princess of Wales bonnet Moravian work provincial bonnet morone puff moschettos pusher lace muscadin pussycat bonnet muscadine raquettes muslin deaths regency cap nacarat regency hat naccarat regency mantle nakara color regency wrapper napoleon ridicule Neapolitan bonnet riding habit Oatland village hat robe à la prêtesse obi hat robe torque Oldenburg bonnet robes en calecon oreilles de chien Robespierre collar pagoda parasol Robinson hat palatine roguelo dress pamela roons panne rotonde pantalettes rotonelle pantalons à pont ruban d’amour pantaloons Russian flame parure Rutland poke patent lace sabretache patent net saccharine alum paysanne bonnet salt-box pocket pea-green sandals à la greque peau de soie sans-culottes pekin satin Sardinian mantle pelise satin rouleaux pelisse sautoir Persian cap schauslooper Persian scarf Scotia silk pilgrim’s hat scye Platoff cap semptress bonnet Platoff costume shag mittens pleated shirt shako pleated trousers skeleton suit ploughman’s gauze slash pocket Garment Types by Era 549 slashed sleeve tricot de Berlin sleeve à la Minerva triple ruff Spanish blue tunic à la juive Spanish coat tunic à la mameluck Spanish fly tunic à la Romaine Spanish hat tunique à la Juive Spanish sleeve turban-diademe spencer Turkish turban spencer cloak Tyrolese cloak spencerette veldschoen spider work veletine spring velours Grégoire stand-fall collar Venetian bonnet starcher Wallachian cap stocking-purse Wardle hat Strumpfhosen wasserfall suarrow boots weepers surtout à la Sultane willow green Swedish cuffs witch’s hat telescope parasol wrapping front dress terrendam Wurtenburg frock toilonette yeoman hat toque York tan gloves Trafalgar dress York wrapper Trafalgar turban zephyr cloak treble ruff trencher hat

ROMANTIC (1815–1840 C.E.)

à la Byron Aragonese bonnet à la jardiniere arcari à la Napoleon Armenian toque adelaide armozeau Adelaide blue aurora Adelaide boot aventurine aetherial avignon Albert boots azure alizarin babet bonnet alpaca babet cap amelie ballroom neckcloth amelle balzarine amen barbel American barège American green basque belt Amy Robsart satin Bavarian dress-style andalusian Bavarian pelisse robe Anglo-Greek bodice beaverteen Angoulême bonnet beret sleeve Angoulême spencer Berlin gloves antique bodice bertha Apollo bibi bonnet Apollo knot bibi capote aquatic shirt bird of paradise 550 A ppendix C bishop’s knot corsage à la Maintenon body coat corsage à la vierge Bolivar hat corsage en corset bonnet à barbes corsage en Fourreau bonnet beehive cottage cloak bonnet pamela couchouc bonnet sylphide cran bottine cravate à la Bergami bouffant mecanique cravate mathématique bouffante sleeve crispin bouillion csakora cut Bourbon hat csizma box coat Cumberland corset brandenbourgs Cumberland hat Brazilian corded sarcenet curricle coat brides curricle pelisse brodequin cushion headdress buridan dandizette burrail collar de Berri Byron collar de France byzantine embroidery de Roi Caledonian cap demicaul camargo hat demi-surtout cameloleopard dentes de loup canezou spencer diadem comb capa diszmagyar capot divorce corset careless dolman carmeillette Donna Maria carnagan d’Orsay coat caroline corsage d’Orsay pump caroline sleeve d’Orsay roll casaweck double bouffant sleeves cased body draft cashmere shawl dress Wellington cassenet dust of ruins cavalier sleeve Dutch skeleton dress celestial eccelide chaine de forçat elastic hat cheats elastic-sided boots chemisette elephant sleeve cheyney elysian chicoree eminence chin stays English chain chinese green English cottage bonnet cifatten esterhazy circassian bodice fanchon circumfolding hat ferroniere clarence fichu Corday clotidienne fichu-canezou Coburg bonnet fichu-pelerine coiffure a l’Agnes Sorel fichu-robings corinna flushings corinth blue fly’s wing cornette à la Diane forester’s green Garment Types by Era 551 fraise mackintosh French bearer madras turban French boa mail coach French bottoms mameluke French work mantelette frock coat Marie sleeve frog Marie Stuart bodice Gabrielle sleeve Marie Stuart bonnet Gallo-Greek bodice marino faliero sleeve gauging marmotte bonnet gibus marmotte cap gipsy cloak marquise mantle Glauvina pin marseilles quilting gothic cap marshmellow gourgourans Medici sleeve gray lilac mente guard chain mentonnierres hare pocket metallic gauze harrington military frock coat Huguenot lace Moabite turban hunting necktie Modena red Huntley scarf monster green Hussar point Montespan imbecile Montespan sleeve Indian Moorish boot Indian green mosaic gauze Indian necktie mummy brown Indian rubber Napoleon necktie ineffibles Navarino smoke inexpressibles Neapolitan headdress ipsiboe negligee Isabella Newgate fringe Isabella color Newmarket coat Ivanhoe cap Nicholas blue Japanese rose nursing dress jeanette oiseau Jemima opera hat jemmy Orleans brown jemmy boots Osbaldiston tie jet buttons oval beaver hat jigger button overalls jockey Oxonian boots jokey paletot kluteen palisandre languette palmyrene lavender palmyrienne Lavinia pansy leg of mutton sleeves pantaloon trousers levantine pantaloons levantine folicé papillote comb Lily Benjamin paquebot capote London dust Parma violet London mud parta London smoke pea jacket macabre pelisse-mantle 552 A ppendix C pelisse-robe spa bonnet penang lawyer Spanish cloak pensée stoat Peruvian hat stomacher bodice Petersham cossacks stote Petersham frock coat straight trousers Petersham greatcoat straight waistcoat petit bord strapped pantaloons pistache sultan sleeve pistachio color Swiss belt plain bow stock Swiss mountain hat plastron Taglioni frock coat plume velvet tartarian point de Bayeux terre de Cuba point de raccroc terre de Pologne Polish mantle terre d’Egypte poplin lactee tights porcelain Tilbury hat poussière de Paris tippet poussière des ruines tobin prince’s sleeve top boot Prussian collar top frock puce toque railroad trousers tourterelle rampoor-chuddar trocadero raymond tunic dress red lilac turf hat rep bluet tweed reticule Venetian cloak riding dress frock coat Vevai cap Rigoletto mantle victoria robe à la Joconde Victoria bonnet robe d’interieur Victoria sleeve robin front volan Roman sandal volant rosadimoi wadded hem rose de parnasse waist seam rouleaux washing leather gloves roxalene bodice weepers roxalene sleeve Welch wig Roxburgh muff Wellington coat Royal George stock Wellington frock santon Wellington half-boot satin antoinette Wellington hat satin velouté Wellington pantaloons sautoir wheel trimming shawl collar whole backs shawl waistcoat wickler shorts wide-awake side edge winkers sirkasa witchoura skuinsdoek witschoura slop work zebra feathers soufflet sleeves zephyr cloak Garment Types by Era 553

CRINOLINE (1840–1865 C.E.)

à la du Barry corsage Aramis mantelet à la Grecque corsage Arctic à la Louis XV corsage Ariadne sleeve à la Marie Stuart Armenian cloak à la vielle Armenian mantle à l’espignole armure Adèle Arragon Agnes Sorel bodice Arragonese Agnes Sorel corsage Astracan de laine Agnes Sorel style Asturian Albanian robe attila Albert cape Augusta cloth Albert collar aurifère Albert crepe Austurian Albert driving-cape azurline Albert jacket baby French heel Albert overcoat bachelor shoes Albert pot badger whiskers Albert riding coat Balaklava Albert shoe balmoral Albert top frock balmoral cloak Alboni balmoral petticoat Albuera Barcelona Alcamina barège Anglais alceste barège de laine Alexandra collar barège de Pyrenees Alexandra jacket barpour Alexandra petticoat basin de laine Alexandrine basque algerine basquin body Alice mantle Basquine Alice Maud basquine a l’espagnole all-rounder batiste de laine Alma bavolet alma brown bayadère poplin Alma Escharpe Beatrice almerian Beatrice parasol alpago beche-cashmere alpine Belle Alsatian Belvidera amazon collar Bijou amazon corsage Biscayan amazon corset blé de Turquie American trousers bloomers American vest blue john Andaluse cape bolero Andalusia bollinger Andalusian bonnet assassin Aneline shawl Borghesé anglaise borrillonnées ankle-jacks bosphore green antigropolis bouquet de corsage Antoinette bournouse 554 A ppendix C braces chatoyante Braganza chau Branscombe point chemise brilliante Cherbourg brilliants chimney pot hat broderie anglaise China calico brogans chinchilla cloth Brussels point chocolat au lait bucksain chya mun bo burnous cialdini apron burnouse cimarosa cache-peigne Clarissa Harlowe corsage cage codrington cage Americaine coeur de melon cage empire coiffure à la Ceres calcarapedes coiffure à la Pomone calico china button coiffure Egyptienne California coiffure Eugenie camail coiffure Louis Trieze camayeux silk coiffure Maintenon cambridge paletot coiffure Zouave caméléon coin de feu Camilla mantelet coke Campan collar à la Vandyke caprice Colleen Bawn cloak capuche Colson capuchin Columbine caradori combed helmet cardigan comforter cardinal Constance cardinal pelerine Cora mantle Cariola coraco Eugenie caroline corsage coral currant button carpet slippers Coralie carpote Coraline carrickmacross corazza casaque cordeliere casaweck Cordovan cascade waistband corinthe green cashmere de baize couronne Ristori cashmere syrien coutil cashmire de bètge cravate cocodes casimir de soie cravate de bureaucrate casquette crepe aerophane cassock vest crépe de Suisse Castiglione crepe maretz Castilian Crimea cazenou crinoline ceinture dragonne crispin cloche châle de brodie cuir chambard mantle cutlets chamford mantle czarina Charlotte Cordey cap dai fong chau charm d’Angri chatelaine Darro Garment Types by Era 555 dentelle de Cambrai fichu Antoinette dentelle de laine fichu Ristori derby fig leaf Desdemona Figaro jacket diphera fil de Chevre domette flamme de punch Doncaster riding coat fleur de peche drap de Paris Flora drap de velours florence dress clip Florentine dress protector Flossing du Barry corsage flounce à disposition du Barry sleeve flower bottle Duchess flower hole Duchesse Fornarina duck-hunter foulard de laines dundreary whiskers fourreau dress dundrearys fourreau skirt dust of Paris fourreau tunic dux collar fraise à la Gabrielle écossaise hat Francis the First sleeve eglantine French cuff elephant sleeve French opening vest elliptic collar French vest Emily frileuse emperor shirt frilling empire cap frog pocket empire jupon gage de Inde Empress gai pee jau sa Empress Eugenie hat gaiter bottoms Empress pardessus gamp en beret gants de Swède en Cavalier garde Français en coulisse Garibaldi blouse en manche Garibaldi bodice en Marquise Garibaldi hat en ravanche Garibaldi jacket en tablier Garibaldi sleeve English wrap gaze d’Orient epingline raye genappe cloth epinglorie brochée giboun Escurial Gitana Esmerelda glacé Marguerite Estramadura goat’s hair fringe Eugenie blue granit de laine Eugenie hat Grecian sleeve Eugenie purse Grecque corsage Eulalie grelot Eureka Grisi exhibition checks gros d’Eccose silk faldetta groseille Faliero guipure arabe fanchon cap gypsy cloak favoris hair strings Felix half bishop sleeve 556 A ppendix C hand la coiffure Diane Harrie sack la comptesse Walewski harris tweed la Equestrienné hat à la reine la Esmerelda havane la Grange havannah la Hermione heavy swell la Manuela hechtgrau la Marguerite Helen cap la Mignene hemispherical hat la Ophelia Henriette hat la Princesse Hercules braid la Puritana Hermione la Stella Hippolita la vierge Hispania Lady Alice sleeve hock see hai Lady Diana hat horsehair petticoat lai kee wat chau Hortense mantle laine foulard howling bags Lancer jacket hoxter Lapland beaver hug-me-tight le Bijou Humboldt purple le Caprice hydrotobolic hat le Gitana Imogen le jupon Imperatrice imperatrice le printemps mantilla imperial le Savage Imperial Leek button Incroyable Leicester jacket Inverness Leonese Ionian levantine Isabeau corsage Lexington cloak Isabeau sleeve Lille à fond clair Isabeau style dress ling tao Isir Lonjumeau dress Isley green Lou Lura cloak Italien Louis XIII corsage Jackson shoes Louis XIV sleeve jambieres Louisa mantilla jardiniere Louise mantelet Jenny Bell Lowell cloth Jenny Lind costume lowerings Jenny Lind riding hat Lucia Jenny Lind sortie de bal Lucie Jim Crow hat M. B. Waistcoat Jocelyn mantle ma gua John Bull ma sa joinville Madrid Josephine magenta kappie Maintenon cloak kask Maintenon corsage kite-high dandy mallow-color kittel mamelouk sleeve Kossuth Mandarin hat Krinoline Manon robe la Bretelle mantelet à la grand mère Garment Types by Era 557 mantelet Isabella Natalie mantua marguerite natural beaver Margaret of Valois Navailles Marguerite silk Nell Gwynne cap Marian ngau hui suck Marie Antoinette fichu Nightingale Marie Stuart hat Norma corsage Marie-Louise blue nouveautés Marion Novado Mark of the Beast octagon tie marquise Omer mantle Marquise ondina crinoline Mary Stuart Ophelia Mathilde mantilla orphelian matinée Oxford jacket Matinee skirt Oxonian jacket Maud pagoda sleeve Medina palatine royal merinos ecossais paletot Metropolitan jacket paletot-cloak mezzaro paletot-sac mignonette Palmerston wrapper Milan palto Milanie Pamela bonnet min nap pamela hat Mirandella parasol-whip mock see hai pardessus Modena pardessus redingote Moldavian mantle parkesine monkey skin parricides Montana passe Montebello Patrician Montespan corsage peasant fichu Montespan hat peel Montespan pleats peg-top sleeves Montpensier mantle peigne Josephine Moresco peignoir morning coat pekin Aneline Morresca pekin bournous Moscow wrapper pekin point mouchoir Alma Pembroke paletot mouchoir Victoria percale taffeta moultan muslin percaline mountain moss Petersham ribbon mousquetaire petershams mousquetaire mantle petticoat suspenders mousquetaire sleeve piccadilly weepers mousselin aboukir poil de saxe Mozambique poile de chevre muffin hat point de chainette Muscovite Polish boots mutton leg sleeve Polish jacket muttonchops polka Napoleons Polka narcorat polonaise pardessus 558 A ppendix C polverino ruche contraire pompadour chiné rum-swizzle pompadour duchesse Russian pompadour pardessus sac overcoat pompeian silk sash sack suit ponceau sailor suit poncho sakko poplin lama Salamanca poplinette sang chau pork-pie hat sansflectum crinoline postillon Saragossa poult de soir saratoga hat princess paletot Sardinian sac princess petticoat satin de chine princess robe satin de Mai Princess Royal satin fontange princess slip satin foulard Princess Wagram satin merino Priora satin Victoria Puritan saut-en-basque pyramid style Scarborough hat Pyramid talma scarf volant pyramids scoop bonnet Quaker skirt Scotia Rachel cloak Second Empire costume radzimir Sevastopol Raglan Seville raglan boot Sevillian raglan cape Shakespere collar raglan sleeve shawl Josephine railway pockets shimmy Raphael dress shirtwaist red rippers shoe-tie necktie red russels shooting coat regatta shirt side body regatta shirting siphonia Regina smoking jacket releves à la Marie Stuart Snowdrop religieuse sleeve soie demantine revers en pelerine soieries à double face riding habit solferino Rimini solitaire rio verde sontag Rio Verde sortie de bal Ristori shawl spair robe de chez Spanish jacket robes à guille Spanish mantle Rosaline spiked shoes Rosamond spiral witney rosaniline spoon bonnet Rose Stella rose des Alpes stovepipe hat rose sublime sublime rosille de soie Sultana rotonde Sultana opera cloak Garment Types by Era 559 sultana scarf Valencian sultana sleeve Valentia swallow-tails varens tablier skirt Varna taffeta coutil Vatermörder taffeta crape vegetable ivory buttons taffeta d’Annecy velours Impératrice taffeta de Suez velveret taglioni velvet imperatrice Talma cloak Venetian edging Talma maltese Venetian sleeve Talma mantle Venice talma Zuleika Venice pearls tamative veste Russe terrier overcoat vésure three-fold linen button Victoria three-seamer Victoria corset tibi Victoria crepe ticket pocket Victoria mantle tignon Victoria pardessus tissue d’Alma Victoria pelisse-mantle toile de Valeuce victorine toile Nankin Violet tombeaux violet of the Alps toque-turban visité toquet Vittoria torsade voilette tourterelle volant tow vulcanized rubber bands trimming à la greque Watteau body tubular necktie Watteau robe tunic Wellesley wrapper tunic shirt wings tunic skirt wool plain turin velvet yachting jacket tweedside zamora tweedside overcoat zanella Twenty Grands Zanfretti mantle twine zephirina twist button Zerlina dress ugly Zillon braid underhandkerchief zimbelline undersleeve zouave jacket undervest zouave paletot Undine Zuleka valencia Zulima Valencia

BUSTLE (1865–1890 C.E.)

à la chale adrianople à la Raphael adriatic green absinthe agemaki acier agrafes de centure acter Albert watch-chain 560 A ppendix C alezan bois de rose algerienne bolero toque alicante boneette alpine jacket booie sum amphibole borada crape cloth ananas boreal angel sleeve borgeon angle-fronted coat bouchons de carafe argile boulanger armoire boulanger umbrella armurette bouleau ascot tie bouracan ashantee bourette baby bodice bourette mousse bacchante bouton d’or bachelik broché silk serge bachlik bulgare pleat backlik Bulgarian cloth bag bodice bullycock bag plastron bunting bag-waistcoat bure bagdad burgoyne balayeuse byzantine balernos byzantine granité Balkan blouse cachemire ballet-skirt cachemire marguerite balmoral bodice cachemire royal balmoral jacket cachou balmoral mantle calibri balzerine camargo bambulo camargo puff barège-grenadine cambridge coat basque waistband camelite basque-habit canoque bateau neckline capuchin Battenburg jacket carmeline bayadère carmelite bayonnaise caroubier beau-catcher carrick beige casaque bodice beige damasse casaquin bodice Belgian linen cascade waistband bengaline cashmerienne bengaline poplin cassis benoiton chains cassock mantle Bernhardt mantle castellan delaine bicycle bal castor bishop catagan blanc catagan head-dress blazer catagan net blé mur celadon blé vert celeste bleu Anglais celluloid blouse polonaise cendre de rose boater centre de Cedra Garment Types by Era 561 chain-hole crottin chambertine cue de Paris chambery gauze cuirass tunic chambray cuirasse bodice Charlotte Corday bonnet cuirasse tunic charm string cuoroncou chasseur curtain drapery chaudron cypress chaume Dagmor blue chemise dai seong siu kwun Chesterfield overcoat dam boo lau Chevalier bonnet Danish trousers cheviot dentelle cachmire chevron de laine dentelle torchon chiang chau diadem bonnet China damask diadem fanchon bonnet China gauze Diamond dyes China grass Diana Vernon bonnet chrysoprase Diana Vernon hat chun sam din cicilian cloth Directoire bonnet ciel blue Directoire coat cineraire Directoire hat ciselé velvet Directoire jacket Clarissa Harlowe bonnet Directoire swallow-tail coat cloud divided skirt coat-bodice djedda coat-sleeve Dolly Varden bonnet congo Dolly Varden cap congress gaiter Dolly Varden dress congress shoe Dolly Varden hat coomassie Dolly Varden polonaise coquelicot donariere cote de Genève douanier côtelé drap de France cotelette drap de soldat coteline drap de Venice couroncon drap fourreau creme de cachemire lace drap laitiere cremorne drap roulier crepe de Chine dress holder crepe imperial dress improver crepe poplin dress lounge crepe royal duchesse pleat crepeline dust ruffle crepon e sa cretonne ecorce crinoletta eelskin trousers crinolette Egyptian cloth crinolette petticoat eillets panaches croise cloth elderberry croizette blue eldergreen Cromwell collar elephant cloth Cromwell shoe emeraude croquet boots empire bodice 562 A ppendix C empire skirt granite empress petticoat Grecian bend English mohair grenadine rayée English velveteen gris Anglaise epangeline gris de fer estamine gros bleu Eton jacket gros de Londres Etruscan cloth gros de Rome faldellin gros de Suez Fanfreluche bodice habit backed skirt fedora habit bodice feutre habit-redingote ficelle handkerchief dress fichu la Valiere helmet hat fichu raphael Henrietta glace fishtail heron flannelette hip bags fleur de soufre hok see hai fleur de thé Hombourg florentine homburg flower bottle Honiton point flow-flow hoo fore-and-aft cap hoo geok kwun foulard poile de chevre hoo tau dai foulé house dress foundling bonnet housemaid skirt four-in-hand Hungarian cord framboise hussar jacket frisé brocade imperial velvet frou-frou impiraperle frou-frou dress incarnat frou-frou gauze incroyable bows fumee incroyable coat fumee de Londres ink gray gabardine ityogaesi gabnel Jack Tar suit Gabrielle dress Jack Tar trousers Gainsborough bonnet jacket coat gants Régence Jaeger underclothes gau chau Janus cord gaze de Chambery Japanese hat gaze neige Japanese piqué gazeline barege Japanese pongee Genoa plush Japanese silk gig-top Japonais gipsy bonnet jaquette giraffe comb jersey Gladstone collar jersey sweater Gladstone overcoat jin be wun goaly Joan-of-Arc bodice gobelin blue josephine bodice godet pleat josie gondolier net kaironan Gordon blue karamini grain de poudre Kate Greenaway costume Garment Types by Era 563 kilted skirt moab kiss-me-quick moiré knickerbockers molleton koller momie cloth kwun momo-ware laddie, come follow me Montague curls lai kee wat chau montebello Lamballe bonnet Montpensier cloth Langtry bonnet moscovite Langtry hood Moscow wrapper lasting boots moss cloth Laveuse costume Mother Hubbard cloak lézard mousquetaire cuff Liberty art silks mousseline grenadine lichen mousseline soie lie de Bordeaux Muller-cut-down Lily Langtry coiffure mulot limousine murray lionceau Muscovite Little Lord Fauntleroy dress Muscovite velvet louisine mushroom hat lucifer nacre burgau luciole natté lyons loops négrillon madapolam neigeuse mais Newmarket overcoat malines nickel gray mandarin night of France blue manteau de coceher nihyakusan-koti marabout nil Marie Anglais bonnet noisette Marie-Antoinette sleeve Norfolk jacket mariposa Norfolk shirt Marlborough hat Normande cap marmotte Normandy bonnet marquise bodice noyer marteaux nun’s cloth martinpècheur nun’s veiling maryland ondine masher ondule masher collar ooze calf masher dust wrap oreille d’ours matelassé oriental satin mecca ortie Medici dress oseille cuite mermaid’s tail ottoman plush mésange ottoman rep Metternich ottoman silk Mexican cloth ottoman velvet mikado Oxford and Cambridge mixture Milanese Oxford gillies Milanese taffeta oxide milkmaid skirt pactole mimi-kakusi palestine mituwa paletot-mantle 564 A ppendix C paletot-redingote prune Dumas Palmyra broché punch pannier crinoline puree de pois pannier dress rabagas bonnet panteen collar ramoneur Paris-Pekin rationals parochka raye de comtesse parure cornouailles Recamier sash patent leather boots redingote patrol jacket reed hat patti jets reefer pavot regatta faille francais peasant skirt regence peau de béte Regina peau de soie regine purple peau de suede rhadames peignoir ridicule pekin riding habit pentes ring cloth peplum basque rivieres de jais peplum bodice robe anglaise peplum dolman robe drapee peplum jupon rocher peplum rotonde rossignol perruche Roubaix velvet pervenche rouille petals Marguerite royale petite pois Rubens bonnet peupliere Rubens hat picadilly Johnny Russian bonnet Piccadilly collar Russian crepe piccadilly fringe Russian jacket piccadilly weepers sa din pifferaro bonnet safety skirt pifferaro hat sailor’s reef knot tie pigeon fan Saint Etienne velvet pinafore costume sanmai-gusi piquets sarata shirting plomb sarde pluie d’argent sateen pluie d’or sateen berber pompadour bodice sateen paré pompadour polonaise satin duchesse pompadour shantung satin jean pompeian red satin merv pongee satin merveilleux porphyry satin turc port manteau sunshade satiné playé porte-bonheur satiné velouté portemonnaie satingle Holland postboy hat scarabee poussière scarf drapery Prince of Wales jacket sealskin coat princess dress señorita jacket princess polonaise serge royale Garment Types by Era 565 serpent tie-back skirt Shakespere vest tige d’aillet shantung tight-slacks Sicilian bodice tilleul sickly green tilter silistrienne tin chiang chiang chau silk Damascene toile d’Alsace skirt ruff toile d’esprit sleeve à la Louis Quinze toothpick sling sleeve toupee sling-duster tournure smock-frock tripoline sokuhatu trouser stretcher sook chau turco poplinnes sourés Turkish brilliantine soyeaux linsey turret bodice spats tussore de Longchamps spoon back tyes star of the morning Tyrolese hat strapontin ulster Strasbourg cloth umritzur street sweeper university athletic costume suedoise university vest suivez moi, jeune homme verd Nile sultane Veronese cuirasse sultane dress Veronese dress sultane jacket vert malachite surah Victoria cage surplice bodice victorieuse swanbill corset vieil argent Swiss bodice violin bodice tablier tunic voile taffetaline volcan tailored suit Vulcanite buttons tallien redingote waterfall back tamise waterproof cloak Tarleton helmet Watteau costume tea jacket Watteau polonaise teagown ya hoo lam telegraph blue yak lace tenzin-mage yeddo crepe terai hat yoke bodice terranine Yokohama crepe Thibet cloth yukue-humei Thibetine Zanzibar thiers red zephyr thistlewood zephyr armure three-decker zephyr gingham three-stories-and-a-basement

GAY NINETIES (1890–1900 C.E.) angel overskirt balloon sleeve asmodée Balmoral crape aubergine beauty spot veil 566 A ppendix C bengaline constellation fond de casserole bengaline russe French gigot sleeves blondine French jet bouffon gadroon bouffron Galatea comb brocantine Galatea hat bust bodice gaze gauffree butterfly bow sleeve gegendas cake hat godet skirt cameleon antique golf vest cancan dress gored bell skirt caracule grannie skirt caracule material granny bonnet cardinal grasshopper green carmelite Harvards carreau amazone Henley boater cashmere twill henri deux cape caspian Henrietta cloth chiffon Henrietta jacket circular Himalaya carreau cleopatra hopsack coat shirt hounscot say coatlet Italian sleeve combinations jacqueminot concertina cloth la pliant convolvulus lacing studs cornet skirt lierre lace Courtauld crape lisse Courtauld’s new silk crepe looking glass silk cowes loutre cravenette lucky bells crepon lustre crepon milleraye manilla crepon Persian mignonette green crushed strawberry miroir silk dead white mirror velvet Directoire skirt mitten sleeve dolmanette moiré française eel skirt moiré velours eleven gore ripple skirt moirette eminence mushroom sleeve eolienne diagonal Nelson hat epaules Americaines Newmarket jacket epingles de nourrice Newmarket top frock epingline chevron soie Newmarket vest epingline flotté soie Oxford tie erinoid paddock coat etamine broché panel skirt eveque panne faillette Parma violet featherbrush skirt patch veil fil de vierge peau de chevrette flabells peplum overskirt flexine Persian lilac floxine petunia Garment Types by Era 567 phosphorescent satin orientale picture hat saucer-collar pierrot cape Scarborough ulster pierrot ruff Sèvres blue pigeon’s breast sleeve tongs pigeon’s throat sticking-plaster dress pluette straight English skirt policeman’s cape street sweeper polo collar sun-ray skirt Prince Rupert swarry-doo Puritan bonnet Talma lounge raglan covert coat Talma overcoat raglan overcoat tattersall rainy daisy skirt tattersall vest rat thistle-green rationals toby ruff rayure travers toile de soie reefer jacket toreador hat ribbed crepon Trilby hat rose tendre trouser press Rosebery collar tucked skirt Rough Rider shirt tudor cape russell cord umbrella skirt Russian blouse velours de laine Russian sergette velours de Venise Russian velvet Venetian crape cloth sabot pantaloons Victoria bodice samson Victoria silk sanitary ball dress volubilis satarra cloth wool bengaline satin cashmere yoke shirt satin de laine zouave pantaloons

1900–1910 C.E. ai ling gau liang amplificateur hoi nong hu Audobon plumage law kee ha hai baby Louis heel mong pao Bakelite Napoleon costume bishop sleeve oi dai booi dai bloomers Parisian satin booie sum peau d’ange Buster Brown collar peek-a-boo waist Buster Brown suit pettibockers colonial pump ribbon corset crepelle sealskin sacque fibre chamoise siu fung sin gau dai hai walking suit

1910–1920 C.E. aeroplane umbrella balaclava artificial silk bandeau beehive crown hat 568 A ppendix C battle jacket peg-top trousers bellboy hat persian drape tunic blouse suit puttee campaign hat rompers castle hat Russian suit debutante slouch sabotine Directoire knickers Sam Browne belt envelope combination surf satin Fortuny tea gown tailored coat hobble skirt tango corset hoover apron teddies Irene Castle bob teddy-bears kiki skirt tongue pump lampshade dress transformation Montana peak walking out dress mule x-ray dress

1920–1930 C.E. acetate gigolo all-in-one krauss Annette Kellerman monastic silhouette beer jacket Oxford bags Bethlehem headdress plus fours broderie anglaise qi pao Brummel radielfo Buchanan reach-me-down bum-freezer seven-eighths coat Cami-knickers skokie Chanel suit slicker cloche toraco dandine town blouse fong chau tuta

1930–1940 C.E. aloha shirt Imperial gold babushka keilhose bambino hat knight’s blue bust forms Limpet trunks chukka boot little black dress cowl collar mess jacket crepe myosotis needlecord Crown pearl pajama doll hat rosalba drape cut Royal turquoise English scarlet run-about dress Fusex shirt swing skirt ghost coat ventilated pants halo hat Garment Types by Era 569

1940–1950 C.E. battle jacket loafer beanie martingale belt bikini Old Navajo Dyes British warm pinks and green de-mob suit siren suit Eisenhower jacket Terylene flight boot Tremont hat garrison cap waist cincher guepiere zoot suit jinnah cap

1950–1960 C.E.

Academician Droop Snoot army green Editor Author Flying Saucer baby doll pajama Hershey bars banker’s blue H-line beehive coiffure Merry Widow bicycle clip millium Continental Olympic cosh-boy saddle shoe courreges silver taupe uniform Davy Crockett cap trapeze Director twinset

1960–1969 C.E. bell bottoms king klipper body shirt les shorts body stocking Mao jacket briuki-dudochki maxi bush hat midi cadet jacket Nehru jacket Chelsea boot palazzo pajamas Chelsea collar qiana cool pants shell go-go boot short shorts gypsy blouse shortcuts hipsters skort hot pants stiliaga jungle fatigues suburban coat khalaty toreadoll pajamas

1970–1979 C.E.

DPM punk Gore-Tex wedding ring hat

1980–1989 C.E.

Gekko shirt

Selected Bibliography

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571 572 Selected Bibliography

———. The Peacock’s Tail. London: George G. Harrap, 1958. Bingham, Caroline. The Crowned Lions: The Early Plantagenet Kings. Totowa, N. J.: Rowman and Littlefield, 1978. ———. The Stewart Kingdom of Scotland 1371–1603. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1974. Binks, H. K. African Rainbow. London: Sidgwick and Jackson, 1959. Birbari, E. Dress in Italian Painting: 1460–1500. London: John Murray, 1975. Black, J. Anderson, and Madge Garland. A History of Fashion. New York: William Morrow, 1975. Blair, Claude. European Armor. London: B. T. Batsford, 1958. Blomberg, Nancy J. Navajo Textiles. Tucson: University of Arizona Press, 1988. Blum, André. The Last Valois 1515–90. London: George G. Harrap, 1951. Blundell, Sir Michael. So Rough a Wind. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1964. Bogatyreo, Petr. The Functions of in Moravian Slovakia. Paris: Mouton, 1971. Bolitho, Hector. Albert Prince Consort. New York: Bobbs-Merrill, 1964. Boller, Paul F., Jr. Presidential Wives. New York: Oxford University Press, 1988. Bond, David. The Guinness Guide to Twentieth Century Fashion. Middlesex: Guinness Superlatives, 1981. Branca, Patricia. Silent Sisterhood: Middle-Class Women in the Victorian Home. London: Croom Helm, 1977. Breasted, James Henry. A History of Egypt. 2nd ed., rev. New York: Scribner’s, 1924. Brelsford, W. V. The Tribes of Northern Rhodesia. Lusaka: Government Printer. Brion, Marcel. The Medici: A Great Florentine Family. New York: Crown, 1969. Brooke, Iris. Costume in Greek Classic Drama. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press, 1973. ———. English Children’s Costume since 1775. London: Adam and Charles Black, 1930. ———. English Costume of the Later . London: Adam and Charles Black, 1963. ———. Footwear: A Short History of European and American Shoes. New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1971. ———. Costume: A Practical Guide to the Construction of Garments. New York: Theatre Arts, 1967. Brown, Dorothy Foster. Button Parade. Chicago: Lightner, 1942. Buck, Anne. Dress in Eighteenth-Century England. London: B. T. Batsford, 1979. Buck, Carl Darling. A Dictionary of Selected Synonyms in the Principal Indo-European Languages. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1949. Burnham, D. K. Cut My Cote. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1973. Buxton, David. Travels in Ethiopia. New York: Frederick A. Praeger, 1967. Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: B. T. Batsford, 1992. Calthrop, Dion Clayton. English Dress from Victoria to George V. London: Chapman and Hall, 1934. Calvert, Albert F. Spanish Arms and Armour. New York: John Lane, 1907. Carey, Margret. Beads and Beadwork of East and South Africa. Aylesbury: Shire Ethnography, 1986. ———. Beads and Beadwork of West and . Aylesbury: Shire Ethnography, 1991. Carlano, , and Larry Salmon, eds. French Textiles from the Middle Ages through the Second Empire. Hartford, Conn.: Wadsworth Atheneum, 1985. Carlin, John. Gulla the Tramp: An Ethnological Indiscretion. London: Jonathan Cape, 1937. Carnagy, Vicky. Fashions of a Decade: The 1980’s. New York: Facts on File, 1990. Cassin-Scott, Jack, and John Fabb. Ceremonial Uniforms of the World. : Hippocrene Books, 1973. Cawthorne, Nigel. Sixties Source Book. Secaucus, N.J.: Chartwell Books Inc., 1989. Cecil, Lamar. Wilhelm II Prince and Emperor 1859–1900. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1989. Cerulli, Ernesta. Peoples of South-west Ethiopia and Its Borderland. London: International African Institute, 1956. Chandra, Moti. Costumes, Textiles, Cosmetics, and Coiffure in Ancient and Medieval India. Delhi: Oriental, 1973. Charles, Anne, and Roger DeAnfransio. The History of Hair: An Illustrated Review of Hair Fashions for Men throughout the Ages. New York: Bonanza Books, 1970. Chaturvedi, B. K. Dresses and Costumes of India. New Delhi: Diamond Pocket Books, 1980. Churchill, Winston S. The Second World War. New York: Time, 1959. Clancy, Deirdre. Costume since 1945: Couture, and Anti-Fashion. New York: Drama, 1996. Clarke, A. A. Police Uniforms and Equipment. Buckinghamshire: Shire, 1991. Cloulas, Ivan. The Borgias. New York: Franklin Watts, 1989. Colle, Doriece. Collars . . . Stocks . . . Cravats: A History and Costume Dating Guide to Civilian Men’s Neckpieces 1655–1900. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press, 1972. Connikie, Yvonne. Fashions of a Decade: The 1960’s. New York: Facts on File, 1990. Contini, Mila. Fashion from Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. London: Hamlyn, 1965. Cooper, Wendy. Hair, Sex, Society, Symbolism. New York: Stein and Day, 1971. Cordry, Donald Bush, and Dorothy M. Cordry. Costumes and Weaving of the Zoque Indians of Chiapas, Mexico. Los Angeles, Calif.: Southwest Museum, 1941. Corson, Richard. Fashions in Eyeglasses. London: Peter Owen, 1967. ———. Fashions in Hair. London: Peter Owen, 1971. ———. Fashions in Makeup from Ancient to Modern Times. London: Owen, 1972. Costantino, Maria. Men’s Fashion in the Twentieth Century. New York: Costume and Fashion Press, 1997. Selected Bibliography 573

Crawford, M. D. C. One World of Fashion. New York: Fairchild, 1967. Crill, Rosemary. Hats from India. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1985. Cronin, Vincent. Louis and Antoinette. New York: William Morrow, 1975. Cumming, Valerie. Gloves. New York: Drama Book, 1982. ———. Royal Dress: The Image and the Reality: 1580 to the Present Day. New York: Holmes and Meier, 1989. ———. A Visual History of Costume: The Seventeenth Century. London: B. T. Batsford, 1984. Cummins, Genevieve E., and Nerylla D. Taunton. Chatelaines: Utility to Glorious Extravagance. Suffolk: Antique Collectors’ Club, 1994. Cunnington, C. Willett. English Clothing in the Present Century. London: Faber and Faber, 1952. Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phyllis Cunnington. Handbook of English Costume in the 16th Century. London: Faber and Faber, 1970. ———. Handbook of English Costume in the 17th Century. 3rd ed. London: Faber and Faber, 1972. ———. Handbook of English Costume in the 18th Century. London: Faber and Faber, 1970. ———. Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century. 3rd ed. London: Faber and Faber, 1970. ———. Handbook of English Medieval Costume. Rev. ed. London: Faber and Faber, 1973. ———. The History of Underclothes. London: Michael Joseph, 1951. Cunnington, Phillis Emily. Charity Costumes of Children, Scholars, Almsfolk, Pensioners. London: Adam and Charles Black, 1978. ———. Costume of Household Servants from the Middle Ages to 1900. New York: Barnes and Noble, 1974. Cunnington, Phillis Emily, and Catherine Lucas. Costume for Births, Marriages and Deaths. New York: Barnes and Noble, 1972. Cunnington, Phillis Emily, and Alan Mansfield. Handbook of English Costume in the Twentieth Century, 1900–1950. Boston: Plays, 1973. Dahmus, Joseph. Seven Medieval Queens. New York: Doubleday, 1972. Davidoff, Leonore. The Best Circles. London: Croom Helm, 1973. Davies, Stephanie Curtis. Costume Language. Malvern: Cressrelles, 1994. Davis, Wade, Ian Mackenzie, and Shane Kennedy. Nomads of the Dawn: The Penan of the Borneo Rain Forest. San Francisco: Pome- granate Artbooks, 1995. de Alcega, Juan. Tailor’s Pattern Book 1589. New York: Costume and Fashion Press, 1999. de Buzzaccarini, Vittoria. Men’s Coats. Modena, Italy: Zanfi Editori, 1994. de Castries, Duc. The Lives of the Kings and Queens of France. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1979. de Courtais, Georgine. Women’s Headdress and Hairstyles in England from 600 AD to the Present Day. London: B. T. Batsford, 1973. de la Haye, Amy, and Cathie Dingwall. Surfers, Soulies, Skinheads, and Skaters. New York City: Overlook Press, 1996. de la Sizeranne, Robert. Celebrities of the Italian Renaissance. Freeport, N.Y.: Library Press, 1969. De Marly, Diana. Christian Dior. New York: Holmes and Meier, 1990. de Negri, Eve. Yoruba men’s costume. Nigeria Magazine 73 (1962): 4–12. Dike, Catherine. Cane Curiosa from Gun to Gadget. Geneva: Catherine Dike, 1983. Dorner, Jane. Fashion in the Forties and Fifties. London: Ian Allen, 1973. ———. Fashion in the Twenties and Thirties. London: Ian Allen, 1973. Doughty, Robin W. Feather Fashions and Bird Preservation: A Study in Nature Protection. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1975. Dreher, Denise. From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to . Minneapolis, Minn.: Madhatter Press, 1981. Dubin, Lois Shearr. The History of Beads. New York City: Harry N. Abrams, 1987. Duff, David. Mother of the Queen: The Life Story of Her Majesty the Queen Mother Elizabeth. New York: Hawthorn Books, 1965. Dunlevy, Mairead. Dress in Ireland. New York: Holmes and Meier, 1989. Earle, Alice Morse. Two Centuries of Costume in America: 1620–1820. Rutland, Vt.: Charles E. Tuttle, 1971. Edgar, Donald. Britain’s Royal Family in the Twentieth Century. New York: Crown, 1979. ———. An Elegant Art: Fashion and Fantasy in the Eighteenth Century. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1983. Edwards, Elizabeth, and Lynne Williamson. World on a Glass Plate. Oxford: Pitt Rivers Museum, 1981. Eicher, Joanne Bubolz. Nigerian Handcrafted Textiles. Ife, Nigeria: University of Ife Press, 1976. Epton, Nina. Josephine: The Empress and Her Children. New York: W. W. Norton, 1975. Espinosa, Carmen. Shawls, , Filigree. El Paso: University of Texas at El Paso, 1970. Evans, Joan. Dress in Medieval France. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1952. Ewing, Elizabeth. Dress and Undress: A History of Women’s Underwear. New York: Drama Book Specialists, 1978. ———. Fur in Dress. London: B. T. Batsford, 1981. ———. History of Twentieth Century Fashion. England: Barnes and Noble, 1986. ———. Women in Uniform through the Centuries. London: B. T. Batsford, 1975. Fax, Elton C. West Africa Vignettes. New York: American Society of African Culture, 1960. Fél, Edit, and Tomás Hofer. Proper Peasants: Traditional Life in a Hungarian Village. Chicago: Aldine, 1969. Feldman, Elane. Fashions of a Decade: The 1990’s. New York: Facts on File, 1992. Felford, A. A. Yesterday’s Dress: A History of Costume in South Africa. Cape Town, South Africa: Purnell, 1972. Femenias, Blenda. Andean Aesthetics: Textiles of Peru and Bolivia. Madison, Wis.: Elvehjim Museum of Art, 1987. Ffoulkes, Charles. The Armourer and His Craft. New York: Dover, 1988. Folk Russian Costume. Moscow: Historical Museum in Moscow, 1989. Folledore, Giuliano. Men’s Hats. Modena, Italy: Zanfi Editori, 1989. 574 Selected Bibliography

Forde, Daryll. Efik Traders of Old Calabar. London: Oxford University Press, 1956. ———, ed. The Shona and Ndebele of Southern Rhodesia. London: International African Institute, 1954. Forde, Daryll, and G. I. Jones. The Ibo and Ibibio-Speaking Peoples of South-Eastern Nigeria. Plymouth: Oxford University Press, 1950. Fossnes, Heidi. Folk Costumes of Norway. Norway: J. W. Cappelen Forlag, 1995. Fosten, D. S. V., and B. K. Fosten. The Thin Red Line. London: Windrow and Greene, 1989. Foster, Vanda. Bags and Purses. London: B. T. Batsford, 1982. Fox-Davies, Arthur Charles. A Complete Guide to . New York: Bonanza Books, 1978. Fraser, Beatrice. Sunshine and Lamplight. Cape Town: Howard Timmins, n.d. Fry, Plantagenet, and Fiona Somerset. The History of Scotland. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1982. Fuchs, Peter. The Land of Veiled Men. New York: Citadel Press, 1956. Fusero, Clemente. The Borgias. New York: Praeger, 1972. Gaborjan, Alice. Hungarian Peasant Costumes. Budapest: Kossuth Printing, 1969. Gailey, Henry A. A History of . New York: Frederick A. Praeger, 1965. Garland, Madge. The Indecisive Decade: The World of Fashion and Entertainment in the Thirties. London: Macdonald, 1968. Garrett, Valery M. : An Illustrated Guide. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1994. Gattey, Charles Neilson. The Bloomer Girls. New York: Coward-McCann, 1967. Geijer, Agnes. Oriental Textiles in Sweden. Copenhagen: Rosenkilde and Bagger, 1951. Gere, Charlotte. Victorian Jewelry Design. Chicago: Henry Regnery, 1972. Gernsheim, Alison. Fashion and Reality. London: Faber and Faber, 1963. ———. Victorian and Edwardian Fashion. New York: Dover, 1981. Gervers-Molnar, Veronika. The Hungarian Szur. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1973. Gervis, Pearce. Of Emirs and Pagans. London: Cassell, 1963. Ghurye, G. S. Indian Costume. Bombay: Popular Prakashan, 1966. Gibbs-Smith, Charles H. The Fashionable Lady in the Nineteenth Century. London: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, 1958. Gilgun, Beth. Tidings from the 18th Century. Texarkana, Tex.: Rebel, 1993. Gillow, John, and Nicholas Barnard. Traditional Indian Textiles. London: Thames and Hudson, 1991. Gimbel’s Illustrated 1915 Fashion Catalog. New York: Dover, 1994. Gingerich, Melvin. The Mennonites in Iowa. Iowa City: State Historical Society of Iowa, 1939. Gittinger, Mattiebelle, and H. Leedom Lefferts Jr. Textiles and the Tai Experience in Southeast Asia. Washington, D.C.: Textile Museum, 1992. Gottlieb, Robert, and Frank Maresca, eds. A Certain Style: The Art of the Plastic Handbag 1949–1959. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1988. Grange, H. M. D. A Short History of the Scottish Dress. New York: Macmillan, 1967. Grant, Michael. History of Rome. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1977. Groves, Sylvia. The History of Needlework Tools and Accessories. New York: Arco, 1973. Gunn, Harold D. Pagan Peoples of the Central Area of Northern Nigeria. London: International African Institute, 1956. Haddon, Alfred C., and Laura E. Star. Iban or Sea Dayak Fabrics and Their Patterns. Cambridge: University Press, 1936. Haertig, Evelyn. Antique Combs and Purses. : Gallery Graphics Press, 1983. Hall, Carrie A. From Hoopskirts to Nudity. Caldwell, Ida.: Caxton Printers, 1938. Hall, Rosalind. Egyptian Textiles. Aylesbury: Shire Egyptology, 1986. Hamilton-Paterson, James, and Carol Andrews. Mummies: Death and Life in Ancient Egypt. New York: Viking Press, 1979. Hanley, Clifford. The Scots. New York: Times Books, 1980. Hargrave, Harriet. From Fiber to Fabric. Lafayette, Calif.: C and T, 1997. Harrold, Robert. Folk Costumes of the World. London: Blandford, 1988. Hart, Avril. Ties. New York: Costume and Fashion Press, 1998. Hart, Avril, and Emma Taylor. Fans. New York: Costume and Fashion Press, 1998. Harte, N. B., and K. G. Ponting, eds. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe. London: Heinemann Educational Books, 1983. Harvey, Nancy Lenz. Elizabeth of York: The Mother of Henry VIII. New York: Macmillan, 1973. Hauglid, Roar, Randi Asker, Helen Englestad, and Gunvor Trattleberg. Native Art of Norway. New York: Frederick A. Praeger, 1967. The Hausa of Northern Nigeria. Edinburgh: Royal Scottish Museum, 1981. Hayashi, Tadaichi. Japanese Women’s Folk Costumes. Tokyo: Ie-No-Hikari Assoc., 1960. Hig gins, Reynold. Greek and Roman Jewellery. 2nd ed. London: Methuen, 1961. Hijlkema, Riet. National Costumes in Holland. Amsterdam: J. J. Meulenhoff, 1951. Hill, Errol. The Trinidad Carnival. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1972. Hilton, Alison. Russian Folk Art. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1995. History of Russian Costume from the Eleventh to the Twentieth Century. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1982. Hope, Thomas. Costumes of the Greeks and Romans. New York: Dover, 1962. ———. Greek Gold: Jewelry from the Age of Alexander. New York: Dover, 1962. Horan, James D. The Desperate Years: A Pictorial History of the Thirties. New York: Bonanza Books, 1972. 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Elizabeth J. Lewandowski is a professor of theatre at Midwestern State University, where she teaches costuming and stage makeup. She has designed costumes for more than 100 productions, ranging from drama to opera to dance. Her work has been exhibited regionally and nationally. She has served on the boards of a number of local, regional, and national organizations related to the theatrical industry. She received her undergraduate degrees in theatre and music from Bradley University and her MFA from Texas Tech University, where her mentor was Dr. Forrest Newlin. She is passionate about all things costume related and has a special place in her heart for costume history–related subjects, from the history of undergarments to the use of drag in theatre. She is currently beginning work on an article on the history of fancy dress and a book on the history of drag. In her spare time, she enjoys learning new gourmet recipes, sewing for local charities, reading voraciously, spending time with her three cats, and adoring her amazing husband, Dan.

Dan Lewandowski earned a BS in theatre, a BS in mass communications from Bradley University (where he met the author), and an AAS in electronics engineering technology from Amarillo College. He has worked in all of the above disciplines for a wide variety of educational and commercial organizations from Chicago to Houston and a few cities in between. Since he and Elizabeth formed a partnership business called Mostly Harmless in 1995, some of his clients have included KERA-Dallas, Sezmi.com, and Midwestern State University. He describes himself as a mostly harmless, mysterious, flirtatious, occasionally helpful, nocturnal, bipedal, carbon-based life form who is a proud and spectacularly successful house husband, persistently fond of the author (he had to sleep with her for 25 years to get this gig.). He dabbles in writing, reading, ice hockey, philosophy, civil activism, throwing legendary solstice parties, contemplating his cosmic insignificance, and taste testing anything that the world famous author cooks up in her amazing, magic kitchen. He describes the illustration process as starting with the highly talented author quickly and seemingly effortlessly creating a gorgeous line drawing, followed by him utilizing his merely mortal skills to take way too long to tweak the perspective and proportion, smooth the lines, and add shading, color, and texture using Jasc Paint Shop Pro 8.1. He is very grateful for the chance to collaborate on this project and for the author’s and editor Stephen Ryan’s enduring patience. He and Elizabeth reside in Wichita Falls, Texas.

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WOMEN’S WEAR

bell suit Dover Publications Big Look Dover Publications cheongsam coat-dress Dover Publications Garibaldi blouse hobble skirt peasant look Dover Publications peg-top skirt robe à l’anglais sack dress Dover Publications sheath dress Dover Publications stringbean Dover Publications FOOT AND LEGWEAR

balmoral

back-strap shoe

bar shoe

bear's paw caite

caliga

Chelsea boot chopines crepida

cowboy boots

cross gartering cut-fingered pumps d'Orsay pump derby shoe

esclaud

espadrille geta

Hessian boot

mukluk krepis poulaines

platform sole

talaria zoccolo HEADWEAR

biretta

bob-wig deerstalker hat

garcettes gipsy bonnet

Muller-cut-down overseas cap Pamela bonnet (Crinoline period) shako tye UNDERGARMENTS

all-in-one cage panniers OUTERWEAR

nine-tenths coat Dover Publications Norfolk jacket Oxford jacket ARMOR

tonlet (15th and 16th century) Dover Publications