The Evolution of Fashion

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THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA

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I Hhe Sbolution of ifashion

FLORENCE MARY GARDINER

Author of ^'Furnishings and Fittings for Every Home" ^^ About Gipsies,"

SIR ROBERT BRUCE COTTON.

THE COTTON PRESS, Granvii^le House, Arundel Street, VV-C-

TO FRANCES EVELYN,

Countess of Warwick, whose enthusiastic and kindly interest in all movements

calculated to benefit women is unsurpassed,

This Volume,

by special permission, is respectfully dedicated,

BY THE AUTHOR.

in the year of

Her Majesty Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee,

1897.

I I PREFACE.

T N compiling this volume on Costume (portions of which originally appeared

in the Lndgate Ilhistrated Magazine, under the editorship of Mr. A. J.

Bowden), I desire to acknowledge the valuable assistance I have received from

sources not usually available to the public ; also my indebtedness to the following

authors, from whose works I have quoted : —Mr. Beck, Mr. R. Davey, Mr. E.

Rimmel, Mr. Knight, and the late Mr. J. R. Planchd. I also take this opportunity of thanking Messrs, Liberty and Co., Messrs. Jay, Messrs. E. R,

Garrould, Messrs. Walery, Mr. Box, and others, who have offered me special facilities for consulting drawings, engravings, &c., in their possession, many of which they have courteously allowed me to reproduce, by the aid of Miss

Juh'et Hensman, and other artists.

The book lays no claim to being a technical treatise on a subject which is practically inexhaustible, but has been written with the intention of bringing before the general public in a popular manner circumstances which have influenced in a marked degree the wearing apparel of the British Nation.

FLORENCE MARY GARDINER.

West Kensington, iS^y. CONTENTS.

CHAPTER. PAGE.

I. The Dress, b.c. 594—a.d. 1897 3

II. Curious Headgear ^5

III. Gloves 25

IV. Curious Footgear 31

V. Bridal Costume 39

VI. Mourning 5i

VII. Eccentricities of Masculine Costume 61

VIII. A Chat about Children and their Clothing 71

IX. Fancy Costume of Various Periods 79

X. Stage and Floral Costume 89 —

Chapter I.

THE DRESS, b.c. 594 a.d. 189;.

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Chapter I.

THE DRESS, b.c. 594—a.d. 1897.

" Fashions that are now called new table fibres, while furs and skins are essential Have been worn by more than you ; articles of dress in Northern latitudes. Per- Elder times have used the same, haps the earliest specimen of a modiste's bill Though these new ones get the name." in existence has recently been found on a Aliddleton's '^ Mayor Quinborough." of chalk tablet at Nippur, in Chaldea. The hieroglyphics record ninety-two robes and \ HARD fate has condemned human tunics : fourteen of these were perfumed xx beings to enter this mortal sphere with myrrh, aloes and cassia. The date of without any natural covering, like that this curious antique cannot be less than two possessed by the lower animals to protect thousand eight hundred years before the them from the extremes of heat and cold. Christian era. In ancient times it must be Had this been otherwise, countless myriads, remembered that the principal seats of civili- for untold ages, would have escaped the sation were Assyria and Egypt, and upon tyrannical sway of the goddess Fashion, and these countries Western nations depended the French proveib, il faut souffrir pour ctre for many of the luxuries of life. The Jews belle, need never have been written. derived their fine fabrics from the latter The costume of our progenitors was chiefly remarkable for its extreme simplicity; and, as far as we can gather, no difference in design was made between the sexes. A few leaves entwined by the stalks, the feathers of birds, the bark of trees, or roughly dressed skins of animals were probably regarded by beaux and belles of the Adamite period as beautiful and appropriate adornments for the body, and were followed by garments made from plaited grass, which was doubtless the origin of weaving, a process which is nothing more than the mechanical plaiting of hair, wool, flax, &c. In many remote districts these primitive fashions still prevail, as, for example, in Madras, where, at an annual religious ceremony, it is customary for the low caste natives to exchange for a short period their usual attire for an apron of leaves. In the Brazilian forests the lecythis, or " shirt tree," is to be found, from which the people roll off the bark in short lengths, and, after making it pliable in water, cut two slits for the arm-holes and one for the neck, when their dress is complete and ready for use. The North American Indian employs feathers for purposes of the toilet, and many African tribes are noted for their deftly-woven fabrics composed of grass and other vege- EARLY KGVrriAN.

1: 2 ;

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. p>lace, which was particu- rian costume is shown in larly noted for its linen double rows, one pendent, manufactures and for mag- while the other stands out nificent embroideries, of in a horizontal direction. which the accompanying The early Greek dress, illustration will give some or chiton, was a very idea. Medes and Baby- simple contrivance, reach- lonians, of the highest class, ?V-- ing to the feet. If un- partially arrayed themselves girdled, it would trail on the in silk, which cost its weight ground; but generally it was in gold, and about the time drawn through the zone or of Ezekiel (b.c, 594) it is waistbelt in such a manner known to have been used that it was double to the ex- in the dress of the Persians. tent of about thirty inches

It is a remarkable circum- over the vital organs of the stance that this animal pro- body. The great distinction duct was brought to the between male and female West manufactured in cloth, dress consisted in the length which was only half silk of the skirt. The trim-

and it is said the plan was mings were of embroidery, devised of unravelling the woven diapers, figure bands

stuff, which was rewoven with chariots and horses ; into cloth of entire silk. and, in some cases, glass Owing to its high price, the ornaments and thin metal Romans forbade its being plates were applied. Among used for the entire dress by the working classes the men, complete robes of silk GREEK, chiton was, of course, home- being reserved for women. spun, or of leather. It is numbered among the The stola was the Roman extravagant luxuries of equivalent for the nine- Heliogabalus that he was teenth century robe or the first man who wore a gown, and in many respects silken garment, and the resembled the Greek chiton. anecdote is well known of The fabrics employed were the Emperor Aurelian, who wool and linen up to the refused, on the ground of end of the Republic, though its extravagant cost, a silk at a later date, as has al- dress which his consort ready been stated, silk was earnestly desired to possess. imported. Colour, under Monuments still in ex- the Emperors, was largely istence show that the used, and at least thirteen Egyptians, owing to the shades of the dye obtained warmth of their climate, from the murex, which were partial to garments of passed under the general a semi-transparent charac- name of purple, could be ter, while those living on seen in the costume of both the banks of the Tigris, who sexes. were subjected to greater When the Roman Em- extremes of temperature, pire was dismembered (a.d. wore clothing of similar 395) a style of dress seems design, but of wool, with to have flourished in the im- heavy fringes of the same portant towns of the Medi- as a trimming. In some terranean, which was similar cases this feature of Assy- to that worn in mediaeval ROMAN. THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. times in Britain, and which may broidered the coronation be examined in the specimens mantle of herhusband, Edward of statuary adorning tombs of the Confessor. the twelfth and thirteenth cen- For some years after the turies. The semi-tight under- Norman Conquest, women dress and sleeves appear to retained the costume of the have been elaborately em- Anglo-Saxon period, with cer- broidered, and the loose tain additions and modifica- mantle of plain material was tions. Fine coloured cloths edged with a border. and richest furs were used by One of the earliest descrip- both sexes, and sleeves and tions of the female dress in trains were such a length that Britain is that of Boadicea, it was found necessary to knot the Queen of the Iceni, whom them, so that they should not we are told wore a tunic woven trail upon the ground. chequerwise in purple, red, The next important change and blue. Over this was a was the surcoat and tight shorter garment open on the bodice, which was fastened in bosom, and leaving the arms front to fit the figure. bare. Her yellow hair flowed There are evident traces over her shoulders, upon that as civilisation advanced which rested an ample cloak, the love of dress and the secured by a fibula (brooch). desire of the fair sex to appear A torque, or necklet, was beautiful in the eyes of all also worn; a pair of bronze beholders increased in like pro- breastplates as a protection portion. From ancient MSS, from the Roman arrows, and BYZANTINE. and other sources, we have her fingers and arms were ample proof of this. St. Jerome covered with rings and brace- calls women " philoscomon" lets. that is to say, lovers of finery, The costume of the Anglo- and another writer states: Saxon ladies consisted of a " One of the most difificult sherie, or camise, of linen next points to manage with women the skin, a kirtle, which is to root out their curiosity resembled the modern petti- for clothes and ornaments for coat, and a gunna, or gown, the body." St, Bernard with sleeves. Out of doors a admonished his sister with mantle covered the upper por- greater candour than polite- tion of the body, and with the ness on her visiting him, well coverchief, or head rail, formed arraied with riche clothinge, a characteristic feature of the with pedes and precious " dress of the day. Cloth, silk, stones : Such pompe and and linen were the favourite pride to adorne a carion as is materials for clothing, and youre body. Thinke ye not red, blue, yellow, and green of the pore people, that be the fashionable colours. Very deyen for hunger and colde; little black and white were and that for the sixth parte of used at this period. Saxon youre gay arraye, forty persons women were renowned for might be clothed, refreshed, their skill with the needle, and and kepte from the colde?" used large quantities of gold The increased facilities for thread and jewels in their travelling offered to those work. Among other instances engaged in the Crusades, and quoted, Queen Editha em- the necessary intercourse with .\NGLO-SAXON. THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

to wear silver cloth, other nations, caused considerable quantities 200 marks were permitted reasonably embel- of foreign materials to be imported to Eng- with ribands, girdles, &c., land during the Middle Ages: and this had lished; also woollen cloth not costing more the piece. a corresponding effect upon the costume of than six marks The tight forms of dress now in common use among women were an incentive to tight lacing, an injurious practice, from which their descendants suffer. A lady is described

" Clad in purple pall, With gentyll body and middle small," and another damsel, whose splendid girdle of beaten gold was embellished with emeralds and rubies, evidently, from the description, had a waist which was not the size intended by Nature. During the Wars of the Roses both trade and costume made little progress, and after the union of the Houses of York and Lan- caster by the marriage of Henry VII. with his Queen, Elizabeth, their attention was chiefly concerned in filling their impoverished

I2TH CENTURY.

the period, which was chiefly remarkable for its richness and eccentricity of form. Among the materials in use may be mentioned diaper cloth from Ypres, a town in Flanders, famous for its rich dress stuffs; tartan, called by the French " tyretaine," meaning teint, or colour of Tyre (scarlet being indifferently used for purple by ancient writers, and including all the gradations of colour formed by a mixture of blue and red, from indigo to crimson). There was a fine white woollen cloth called Blanket, named after its inventor. Sarcenet, also from its Saracenic origin, and gauze which was made at Gaza in Palestine. Ermine was strictly confined to the use of the Royal Family and nobles, and 14TH CENTURY. cloth of gold, and habits embroidered with jewellery, or lined with minever or other coffers, which left them little opportunity for expensive fur, could only be worn by knights promoting new fashions in dress. Henry and ladies with incomes exceeding 400 marks VIII. afforded ample facilities for the revival per annum. Those who had not more than of the trade in dress goods, and there is little THE EVOLUTION OF FASHIOA.

difficulty in tracing female costume of the "She was robed in cloth of gold, with a

' sixteenth century when we remember that in saya ' (petticoat) of brocade, the sleeves the course of thirty-eight years he married lined with crimson satin and trimmed with six wives, besides having them painted times three piled crimson velvet. Her train was more than two yards long" Articles of dress were often bequeathed by will. In one made on the [4th of August, 1540, William Cherington, yeoman, of Waterbeche, leaves " To my mother 7ny holyday gowne.'" Nicholas, Dyer of Feversham, 29th October, 1540, "To my sister, Alice Bichendyke, thirteen shillings and ninepence 7vhkh she owed me, and two kerchiefs of holland." John Holder, rector of Gamlingay, in 1544 leaves to Jane Greene " my clothe frock lined with satin cypress." These entries are from wills in the Ely Registry. A peculiar feature in the costume of both sexes was sleeves distinct from the gown, but attached (so as to be changed at pleasure) to the waistcoat. Among the inven-

I 6th century. Fro7n Portrait of Mary Queen of Scots,

without number by all the popular artists of the day. " J. R. Planch^ in his History of British Costume," says: "The gowns of the nobility were magnificent, and at this period were open in front to the waist, showing the kirtle, or inner garment, as Avhat we should call the petticoat was then termed." Anne of Cleves, who found so little favour in Henry's eyes, is said to have worn at their first interview " a rich gowne of cloth of gold made round, without any train, after the Dutch fashion;" and in a wardrobe account of the eighth year of this Bluebeard's reign appears the following item: "Seven yards of purple cloth of 17TH CENTURY. damask gold for a kirtle for Queen Cathe- rme of Arragon." The dress of Catherine tories we find three pairs of purple satin Parr is thus described by Pedro de Gante, sleeves for women, one pair of linen sleeves secretary to the Spanish Duke de Najera, paned with gold over the arm, quilted with who visited Henry VHI. in 1543-1544: black silk and wrought with flowers; one 8 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

pair of sleeves of purple gold tissue damask costume of Britain more picturesque than in

wire, each one tied with aglets of gold ; one the middle of the seventeenth century, and pair of crimson satin sleeves, four buttons we naturally turn to its great delineators of gold being set on each, and in every Velasquez, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, and button nine pearls. Rubens, who delighted in giving us such fine We are all familiar with the distended examples of their work Women had grown skirts, jewelled stomachers and enormous tired of the unwieldy fardingale, and changed ruffs which adorned the virgin form of Good it for graceful gowns with flowing skirts and Queen Bess. In the middle of her reign low bodices, finished with deep vandyked the body was imprisoned in whalebone, and collars of lace or embroidery. the fardingale, the prototype of the modern A studied negligence, an elegant deshabille hoop, was introduced, as it was not to be prevailed in the Stuart Court, particularly supposed after the Restora- that a lady tion. Charles II. "s who is said bevy of beauties to have left are similarly at- three thou- ""% tired, and the pic- sand dresses tures in Hampton in her ward- Court show us robe would women whose remain snowy necks and faithful to the fashions arms are no longer of her grandmother; veiled, and whose and Elizabeth's love gowns of rich satin, of dress permeated with voluminous all classes of society. trains, are piled up The portrait of in the background. Mary Queen of Scots, Engravings and who was considered drawings which an authority on may be seen in matters of the toilet, every printseller's and whose taste for window make elegance of apparel special i 1 1 u s- had been cultivated trations of this to a high degree period unneces- during her residence sary. at the PYench Court Dutch fashions is given. There is a appear to have subtlety and charm followed in the about it which is wake of William wanting in the cos- and Mary, Sto- I9TH CENTURY, I 8th century. tume of her cousin machers and tight BALL DRESS, 1809, WALKING COSTUME. Elizabeth, and it may sleeves were once he considered a fair type of what was worn more in favour, and fabrics of a rich and by a gentlewoman of that period. The full substantial character were employed in pre- skirt appears to fall in easy folds, and the ference to the softer makes of silk, which basqued bodice, with tight sleeves, is closely lent itself so well to the soft flowing hnes of moulded to the figure and surmounted by an the previous era. elaborately-constructed ruff of muslin and An intelligent writer has remarked " that lace. Fashion from the time of George I. has been To the great regret of antiquarians, the such a varying goddess that neither history, wardrobes of our ancient kings, formerly tradition, nor painting has been able to pre- kept at the Tower, were by the order of serve all her mimic forms; like Proteus James I. distributed. At no period was the struggling in the arms of Telemachus, on th^ THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

Phanaic coast, she passed from shape to again to the fore, skirts were proportionately shape with the rapidity of thought." In wide and generally flounced to the top. The 1745 the hoop had increased at the sides bodice terminated at the waist with a belt; and diminished in front, and a pamphlet but in some cases a Garibaldi, or loose bodice of different texture, was substituted. The next change to be noted was that hideous garment the " polonaise," which was a revival of, and constructed on similar lines to, the " super froc " of the Middle Ages. For many years English ladies, with a supreme disregard for the appropriate, wore this with a skirt belonging to an entirely different costume. But at last people got nauseated with these abominations, and under the gentle sway and influence of " Our Princess " a prettier, more useful and rational costume appeared. In 1876 the graceful Princess dress, which accentuated every good point in the figure,

was generally worn ; and though this costume in the latter part of its career was fiercely abused by the rotund matron and Mrs.

I9TH CENTURY. —TEA DRESS, 1830. was published in that year entitled "The enor- mousabomination of the hoop petticoat, as the fashion now is." Ten years later it is scarcely discernible in some figures, and in 1757 reap- pears, extending right and left after the manner of the court dress of the reign of George III. For the abolition of this monstrosity we are indebted to George IV., and ladies' dresses then rushed to the other extreme. Steel and whalebone was dispensed with, and narrow draperies displayed the form they were supposed to conceal, and were girdled just below the shoulders. These were in time followed by the bell- shaped skirts worn at the accession of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, during whose reign 19TH CENTURY. —THE POLONAISE, 1872. fashion has indeed run riot. The invention of the sewing machine was the signal for the Grundy, for clinging too closely to the lines appearance of frills and furbelows, and mere- of the human form, it was distinctly an tricious ornament of every kind. In the advance as regards health and beauty on the iTiiddle of the present century crinolines were varying styles which preceded it, lO THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

The cesthetic movement has also had a fitness, beauty, and the canons of good marked influence on our taste in all directions, taste. but more especially in the costume of the Two dominant notes, however, have been last few years; and though the picturesque struck in the harmonies of costume during the last twenty-five years —the tailor-made dress, which may almost be regarded as a national livery; and the tea gown, that reposeful garment to which we affectionately turn in our hours of ease. How well each in its way is

calculated to seive the purpose for which it is designed, the simple cloth, tweed, or serge costume moulded to the lines of the figure, adapted to our changeful climate, and giving a cachet to the wearer, not always found in

TAILOR-MADE DRESS, garb of the worshippers of the sunflower and the lily may not be adapted to the wear and tear of this workaday world, it is beautiful in form and design, incapable of undue pres- sure; and for children and young girls it would be difficult to imagine a more charming, artistic, and becoming costume. Once more we are eschewing classical lines for grotesque which makes caricatures of lovely women, and drives plain ones to despair. The subdued and delicate tints which a few seasons since were regarded with favour have been superseded by garish shades and bright colours, which seem to quarrel with everything in Nature and Art. Unfortunately, we English are prone to extremes, and possess the imitative rather TEA GOWN, 1897. than the creative faculty. Consequently, our national costume is seldom distinctive, but a much more costly apparel, a rational costume combination of some of the worst styles of in the best sense of the word, and one which our Continental neighbours, who would scorn women of all ages may assume with satisfac- to garb themselves with so little regard for tion to themselves and to those with whom THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

they come in contact. The tea gown, on the dress of decrepitude, submit to be placed on other hand, drapes the figure loosely so as to the social shelf without a murmur, and fall in graceful folds, and may be regarded as a calmly allow those slightly their junior, and in

distinct economy, as it so often takes the place some cases their senior, to appropriate the of a more expensive dress. Beauty, which is one of Heaven's best gifts to women, is use- less unless appropriately framed, and a well- known exponent on the art of d ressing artisti- cally, has laid down the axiom that harmonies of colour are more successful than contrasts. If we turn to Nature we have an unfailing source of inspiration. The foliage tints, sun- set effects, the animal and mineral worlds all offer schemes of colour, which can be readily adapted to our persons and surroundings. And to look our best and, above all, to grow old gracefully, is a duty which every daughter

MODERN EVENING DRESS.

good things of life, and to monopolise the attention of all and sundry. Mothers in their prime willingly allow anyone who can be per- suaded to do so, to chaperone their daughters, and to pilot them through the social eddies and quicksands of their first season, and through sheer indolence fail to AN ARTISTIC DRESS, 1 897. exercise the lawful authority and responsibility After a painting by Sir Joshim /Reynolds. which maternity entails. The unmarried woman, conscious that she is no longer in of Eve owes to humanity. The manner in her first youth, and indifferent to the charms which so many women give way early in life of maturity, takes to knitting socks in obscure is simply appalling. While still in the bloom corners, and assumes an air of self-repression of womanhood they assume the habits and and middle- agedness which apparently takes THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

ten years from her span of existence, and which fall in stately folds, and give her dignity, conveys to the casual onlooker, that she has than if she persists in decking herself in passed the boundary line between youth and muslin, crepon, net, and similar materials, old age. Why should these women sink because in the long since past they suited before their time into a slough of dowdyism her particular style. Gossamers belong to and cut themselves off from the enjoyments the young, with their dimpled arms, shoulders civilisation has provided for their benefit? of snowy whiteness, and necks like columns Equally to be deprecated are those who of ivory. Their eyes are brighter than jewels, cling so desperately to youth that they entirely and their luxuriant locks need no ornament forget the later stages of life have their com- save a rose nestling in its green leaves, a pensations. Women who in crowded ball- fit emblem of youth and beauty. rooms display their redundant or attenuated With the education and art training at forms to the gaze of all beholders, whose present within the grasp of all classes of the coiffure owes more to art than nature, and community there is nothing to prevent our who comfort themselves with the conviction modifying prevailing fashions to our own that in a carefully shaded light rouge and requirements; and common sense ought to pearl powder are hardly distinguishable from teach us (even if we ignore every other senti- the bloom of a youthful and healthy com- ment which is supposed to guide reasoning plexion. A variety of circumstances combine creatures) that one particular style cannot be to bring into the world a race of people who appropriate to women who are exact opposites cannot strictly lay claim to beauty, but who to each other. If each person would only nevertheless have many good points which think out for herself raiment beautiful in might be accentuated, while those that are form, rich in texture, and adapted to the less pleasing could be concealed. A middle- daily needs of life, we should be spared a aged woman will respect herself and be more large number of the startling incongruities respected by others if she drapes her person which ofifend the eye in various directions. in velvet, brocade, and other rich fabrics Chapter II. CURIOUS HEADGEAR.

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. IS

Chapter II. CURIOUS HEADGEAR.

" Here in her hair surprising that Artemisia could not console The painter plays the spider, and hath woven herself for the loss of such a clever husband, A golden mesh to entrap the hearts of men Faster than gnats in cobwebs." The Merchant of Venice. HOLY Writ simply teems with allusions to the luxurious tresses of the fair daughters of the East, and there is little doubt that at an early period in the world's history women awakened to the fact that a well-tired head was a very potent attraction, and had a recognised market value. Jewish women were particularly famed in this respect, and employed female barbers, who, with the aid of crisping pins, horns, and towers, prepared their clients for conquest. These jewelled horns were generally made of the precious metals, and the position denoted the condition of the wearer. A married woman had it fixed on the right side of the head, a widow on the left, and she who was still an unappropriated blessing EGYPTIAN HEAD-DRESS. on the crown. Over the horn the veil was thrown coquettishly, as in the illustration. and that, not satisfied with drinking his ashes Assyrian women delighted in long ringlets, dissolved in wine, she spent some of her confined by a band of lamented lord's ill-gotten metal, and the men were revenue in building such a not above the weakness of monument to his memory

plaiting gold wire with their that it was counted one of beards. Rimmel, in " The the wonders of the world. Book of Perfumes," relates The Egyptians were also a curious anecdote of Mau- partial to wigs, some of solus. King of Caria, who which are still preserved turned his people's fond- in the British Museum. ness for flowing locks to Ladies wore a multitude of account when his exche- small plaits and jewelled quer required replenishing. head-pieces resembling pea- " Having first had a quan- cocks and other animals, tity of wigs made and which contrasted with their stored in the royal ware- dark tresses with brilliant

houses, he published an efiect \ or a fillet orna- edict compelling all his mented with a lotus bud. subjects to have their heads The coiffure of a princess shaved. A few days after, ANCIENT JEWISH HEAD-DRESS was remarkable for its size the monarch's agents went and the abundance of ani- round, offering them the perukes destined to mal, vegetable, and mineral treasures with

cover their denuded polls, which they were which it was adorned. In Egyptian tombs delighted to buy at any price " It is not and elsewhere have been discovered small \6 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. wooden combs resembling the modern tooth- famous instance of the consecration of hair is comb, and metal mirrors of precisely the that of Berenice, the wife of Ptolemy Ever- same shape as those in use at the present getes. It is related that when the king went on his expedition to Syria, she, solicitous for

ANCIENT GRECIAN. ANCIENT ROMAN.

day, as well as numerous other toilet appli- his safety, made a vow to consecrate her ances. hair (which was remarkable for its fineness Grecian sculpture affords us the opportu- and beauty) to Venus, if he returned to her. nity of studying the different modes in favour When her husband came back she kept her

in that country, and it is word, and offered her hair astonishing to find what a in the temple of Cyprus. variety of methods were This was afterwards miss- adopted by the belles of ing, when a report was

ancient Greece for enhanc- spread that it had been ing their charms. A loose turned into a constellation knot, fastened by a clasp in in the heavens, which con- the form of a grasshopper, stellation, an old writer tells was a favourite fashion. us, is called Coma Berenices Cauls of network, metal (the hair of Berenice) to mitres of different designs, the present day. Another and simple bands, and remarkable instance is that sometimes chaplets, of of Nero, who, according to flowers, all confined, at Suetonius, cut off his first

different periods, the luxu- beard, put it in a casket of riant locks of the Helens, gold set with jewels, and

Penelopes, and Xantippes consecrated it to Jupiter of ancient times. ENGLISH HEAD-DRESS OF THE Capitolinus. It was a common custom 13TH CENTURY. The hair of the head and among heathen nations to beard appears to have been consecrate to their gods the hair when cut off, held in great respect by most nations, and as well as that growing on the head, and it perhaps we may trace the use of human hair was either consumed on the altar, deposited in spells and incantations to this fact. in temples, or hung upon the trees. A Orientals especially treat the hair which falls THE EVOLUTION OE EASHIOK. 17

dered, had treated them unkindly. Ovid rebukes a lady of his acquaintance in the plainest terms for having destroyed her hair. " Did I not tell you to leave off dyeing yoar hair? Now you have no hair left to

dye : and yet nothing was handsomer than

your locks : they came down to your knees, and were so fine that you were afraid to comb them. Your own hand has been the

cause of the loss you deplore : you poured the poison on your own head. Now Ger- many will send you slaves' hair—a vanquished nation will supply your ornament. How

HORNED HEAD-DRESS OF 15TH CENTURY. troin Effigy of Countess of Arundel in Arundel Church, from them with superstitious care, and bury it, so that no one shall use it to their preju- dice. Roman matrons generally preferred blonde hair to their own ebon tresses, and resorted o wigs and dye when Nature, as they consi-

\ vor"

EARLY TUDOR HEAD-DRESS.

many times, when you hear people praising the beauty of your hair, you will blush and

' say to yourself : It is bought ornament to which I owe my beauty, and I know not what Sicambrian virgin they are admiring in me. And yet there was a time when I " deserved all these compliments.' It would puzzle any Jin de siecle husband or brother to express his displeasure in more appropriate words than those chosen by the poet. The Britons, before they mixed with other STEEPLE HEAD-DRESS OF 15TH CENTURY. nations, were a fair-haired race, and early c THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. writers referred to their washing their auburn a variety of shapes, of which the accompany- tresses in water boiled with lime to increase ing sketches will give a better idea than any the reddish colour. Boadicea is described written description. with flowing locks which fell upon her During the sixteenth century matrons shoulders; but after the Roman Invasion adopted either a pointed hood, composed of velvet or other rich fabric, often edged with fur, a close-fitting coif, or the French cap to be seen in the portraits of the unhappy Mary Stuart. Those who were unmarried had their hair simply braided and embellished with knots of ribbon, strings of pearls, or Nature's most beautiful adornment for the maiden—sweet-scented flowers. The auburn tresses of Her Gracious Majesty Queen Elizabeth, were always bien coiffee, if we may judge from her various portraits. She scorned the hoods, lace caps, and pointed coifs, worn by her contemporaries, and adopted a miniature crown or jaunty hat of velvet, elaborately jewelled. Her fair complexion and light hair were thrown into relief by rufiles of lace, and this

HORNED HEAD-DRESS OF EDWARD IV. 's REIGN. the hair of both men and women followed the fashion of the conquerors. From Planch^'s "History of British Costume," we learn that " the female head- dress among all classes of the Anglo-Saxons was a long piece of linen or silk wrapped round the head and neck." It appears to have been called a head-rail, or wimple, but was dispensed with in the house, as the hair was then as cherished an ornament as at the present day. A wife described by Adhelm, Bishop of Sherborne, who wrote in the eighth century, is said to have had " twisted locks, delicately " curled by the iron ; and in " " the poem of Judith the heroine is called "the maid of the Creator, with twisted locks." ELIZABETHAN HEAD-DRESS. Two long plaits were worn by Norman ladies, and were probably adopted by our own delicate fabric was stretched over fine wire countrywomen after the Conquest. frames, which met at the back, and remotely During the Middle Ages feminine head- suggested the fragile wings of the butterfly, gear underwent many changes. Golden nets, or the nimbus of a saint, neither of which and linen bands closely pinned round the ornaments was particularly appropriate to the hair and chin, were followed by steeple- lady in question. The front hair was turned shaped erections and horned head-dresses in over a cushion, or dressed in stiff sausage- THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 19 like curls, pinned close to the head, and was left to the sterner sex for some years after the adorned with strings and stars of flashing restoration of the House of Stuart, and gems and a pendant resting on the forehead. women were satisfied with well -brushed That ^splendid historian, Stubbs, who has ringlets escaping from a bandeau of pearls, left us such minute particulars of the fashions or beautified by a single flower. The hair was often arranged in small, flat curls on the forehead, as in the sketch of a Beauty of the Court of Charles H.; and this fashion had a softening effect on the face, and was known as the " Sevigne style." Dutch fashions naturally prevailed in the Court of William and Mary, and this queen is represented with a high muslin cap, adorned with a series of upright frills, edged with lace, and long lappets falling on the shoulders. Farquhar, in his comedy " Love and the Bottle," alludes to the " high top- knots," and Swift, to the " pinners edged with colberteen," as the lace streamers were called. About this period the hair was once again rolled back from the face, and assumed enormous dimensions, so much so, that in some cases it was found necessary to make

A BEAUTY OF THE COURT OF CHARLES II. of his time, quaintly describes the coiffure of " the ladies of the Court. He states : It must be curled, frizzled, crisped, laid out in wreaths and borders from one ear to the other, and lest it should fall down, must be underpropped with forkes and weirs, and ornamented with gold or silver curiously wrought. Such gewgaws, which being un- skilful in woman's tearms, I cannot easily recount. Then upon the toppes of their stately turrets, stand their other capital ornaments : a French hood, hatte, cappe, kircher and suchlike, whereof some be of velvet, some of this fashion and some of that. Cauls made of netwire, that the cloth of gold, silver, or tinsel, with which their hair was sometimes covered, might be seen through ; and lattice caps with three horns or corners, like the forked caps of popish priests." The Harleian MSS., No. 1776, written in the middle of Elizabeth's reign, refers to an ordinance for the reformation of gentlewomen's " head-dress, and says : None shall wear an END OF 17TH CENTJRY. ermine or lattice bonnet unless she be a gentlewoman born, having Arms." This doorways broader and higher than they had latter phrase, we may conclude, refers to hitherto been, to allow fashionably-dressed armorial bearings, not to physical develop- ladies to pass through without displacing the ment. elaborate erections they carried. Stuffed The wearing of false hair and periwigs was with horsehair, clotted with pomade and c 2 20 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. powder, and decked with every conceivable Varied, indeed, have been the fashions of ornament, from a miniature man-of-war in the 19th century, the close of which is fast full sail, to a cooing approaching. Only "* dove with outspread a few of the styles wings, presumably adopted can be sitting on its nest, or briefly touched upon, a basket of flowers and, naturally, those wreathed with rib- will be selected which bons. Naturally, the form the greatest aid of the barber was contrast to each other. called in, as ladies The belle of 1830 were incapable of was distinguished by constructing and upstanding bows of manipulating such a plain or plaited hair, mass of tangled locks. arranged on the We may imagine, on crown of the head, the score of expense and the front was and for other reasons, generally in bands or the hair was not short ringlets, held dressed so frequently in place by tortoise- as cleanliness de- shell side-combs. The manded, for in a simplicity of this book on costume a coiffure was compen- hairdresser is de- sated for by the FASHIONABLE COIFFURE OF AN ELDERLY LALY scribed as asking one enormous size of the IN THE I 8th century. of his customers how hats and bonnets long it was since her generally worn with hair had been opened it. These had wide and repaired. On and curiously-shaped her replying, " Nine brims, over which weeks," he mildly was stretched or suggested that that gathered silk, satin, was as long as a head aerophane, or similar could well go in materials. Garlands summer, "and, there- and bunches of fore, it was proper to flowers and feathers deliver it now, as it were used in profu- began to be a little sion, and bows and hazarde." Various strings of gauze rib- anecdotes of this bon floated in the nature make us feel wind. In this be- that personal hygiene witching costume was a matter of were our grand- secondary importance mothers wooed and to our ancestors. won by suitors who Planch<^, in his evidently, from the work on British Cos- impassioned love let- tume, informs us ters still in existence, that powder main- believed them to be tained its ground till perfect types of love- FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES IN THE TIMES OF ^793) when it was liness. THE GEORGES. discarded by Her T o war d s the Majesty Queen Charlotte, Consort of George middle of Queen Victoria's reign, the hair III., and the Princesses." was dressed in a simple knot, and the front THE EVOLUTIOA OF FASHION 21 arranged in ringlets, which fell gracefully on The labours of Hercules would be mere the chest and shoulders. Even youthful child's play compared to giving a faithful married ladies, in the privacy of their homes record of the chameleon-like changes which and for morning dress, were expected, by have affected that kaleidoscope, pubhc taste,

1830. i8S5i

bird's-nest chignon, 1872. PRESENT DAY, 1 894. one of those potent but unwritten laws of the during the last forty years, and a very limited fickle goddess Fashion, to wear muslin or net study of this fascinating subject at once con- caps, with lace borders, embellished with vinces us that, whatever peculiarities may ribbons. ajipcar, they are certain to be revivals or 23 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

modifications of styles favoured by our more silver and gold tissue, of every shape and or less remote ancestors. size that fancy could devise, or the heart of In 1872 loomed upon us that ghastly the most exacting woman of fashion could horror the chignon, which bore a faint resem- desire. The hair beneath was dressed like blance to the exaggerated coiffures of the the frizzy mop illustrated, in plaited wedges 1 8th century. Upon this monstrous edifice, flowing like a pendant hump half-way down with its seductive Alexandra curl, were tilted the back, or in a cascade of curls reaching bonnets so minute that they were almost from the crown of the head to the waist. invisible in the mountains of hair that sur- These were followed by gigantic rolls at the rounded them. These were replaced by back of tbe skull, Grecian knots, varying

hats a la Chinois, like shallow plates ; while from the dimensions of a door handle to for winter wear, others of fur or feathers were those of a cottage loaf, and latterly by that introduced, with an animal's head fixed hideous monstrosity, the " bun." Another firmly on the brow of the wearer, and resem- turn of the wheel of fashion has given us a bling nothing so much as the fox foot- simple mode of dressing the hair, which is warmer, with which ladies now keep their well adapted to the average English head, pedal extremities at a proper temperature and which is fully explained by the accom- when enjoying an airing. Besides these, panying sketch. It may be taken as a safe there were pinched canoes turned keel upper- rule, when the forehead is low and face most, and flexible mushrooms, which flapped small, that the hair may be drawn back with and caught the wind till it was necessary to advantage, but a long face is generally attach a string to the edge, to keep them improved by arranging the hair in soft curls

snug and taut ; such hats as Leech has on the forehead, and by waving it slightly at immortalised in his sketches. Turbans and the sides, which adds to the apparent width facsimiles of the delicious but indigestible of the countenance. But whatever style is pork-pie, Gainsborough, Rousby, and Langtry in fashion, it is sure to have its admirers, for hats, all named after styles worn by their has not Pope left on record : respective namesakes ; and hats made of " Fair tresses man's imperial race ensnare, straw, leghorn, crinoline, lace, satin, and of And beauty draws us by a single hair." Chapter III. GLOVES.

— —

THE EVOLUTION OE FASHION. 25

Chapter III. GLOVES.

" Gloves as sweet as damask roses." Shakespeare. handle the meat while hot and devour more " See how she leans her cheek upon her hand. than the others present. O, that I were a glove upon that hand, That the Anglo-Saxons wore gloves we That I might touch that cheek." gather from their being mentioned in an —Koineo andJuliet. old romance of the seventh century known glove as an article of dress is of great THE as the " Poem of Beowulf," and according antiquity, the fossils of the and among to the laws of Ethelred the Unready, five pre-historic times, cave-dwellers of pairs of gloves formed part of the duty paid recently discovered in which have been to that Prince by certain German merchants. Switzerland, there is France, Belgium, and In Planchi's "History of British Costume," its Probably the ample proof of existence, an Anglo-Saxon lady appears to be wearing a glove with a separate division for the thumb but without fingers, and exactly resembling an infant's glove of the present day. In 1462 Edward IV. forbade the importation of foreign gloves to England, a

law which remained in force till 1826. In the early Christian Church gloves played an important part. In a.d. 790 Charle- magne granted an unlimited right of hunt- ing to the Abbot and monks of Sithin, so that the skins of the deer they killed could (sLove be used in the manufacture of gloves, OF girdles, and covers of books. In some cases it was commanded that the clergy should H€NRY \\

first gloves were formed of skins, sewn with bone needles, and were long enough to reach above the elbow. Xenophon, speaking of the Persians, gives HAWKINS as an instance of their effeminacy "that -(SLove they not only covered their head and feet, but guarded their hands from cold by thick gloves." Homer, describing Laertes at work in his garden, represents him with gloves on his hands to protect them from thorns. Pliny the younger, in speaking of his uncle's visit to Vesuvius, states that his H6NRY sat ready to write anything secretary by down Nil) that was remarkable, and had gloves on his hands that the coldness of the weather need wear gloves in administering the Sacrament, not impede his work. Varro, an ancient and a writer in the "Antiquary" states: writer says: — "Olives gathered with the " It was always looked upon as decorous for naked hand are preferable to those plucked the laity to take off their gloves in church in gloves;" and Atheneus speaks of a glutton where ecclesiastics alone might wear them. who wore gloves at table so that he might It was perhaps regarded as a proof of cleaq 26 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. hands, for to this day persons sworn in our glove. As un gage d'amour it has for cen- law courts are compelled to remove their turies been esteemed, and in the days of gloves." In the ancient Consecration Ser- chivalry it was usual for knights to wear vice for the Bishops of the Church, a bless- their ladies' gloves in their helmets, as a ing was invoked on the gloves they wore. talisman of success in arms. In old records Those of William of Wykeham preserved we also meet with the term " glove money," a sum paid to servants with which they were to provide this portion of their livery, and (SLOVe Of till quite recently it was the custom to pre- COARY sent those who attended weddings and QueeNofScoT^ funerals with gloves as a souvenir. Shakespeare often mentions gloves, and some assert that he was the son of a glover. A pair which belonged to the dramatist is still preserved. They are of brown leather, ornamented with a stamped pattern, and are edged with gold fringe. They were presented by the actor Garrick to the Mayor and Cor- poration of Stratford-on-Avon at the Shake- spearian commemoration in 1789.

at New College, Oxford, are adorned with the sacred monogram in red silk, and ecclesiastical gloves were often lavishly decorated with embroidery and jewels, and were bequeathed by will with other valuables. Formerly judges were forbidden to wear gloves when engaged in their official duties, but are no longer bound by this restriction, and receive as a memorial of a maiden assize (that is, when there are no prisoners to be tried) a pair of white kid gloves from the sheriff, and during the time fairs were held their duration was marked by hanging a glove outside the town hall. As long as it remained there all persons in the place were exempt from arrest, but directly it was OLOve OF removed it was the signal for closing the QueeweuzABeTN. fair, and the privilege was at an end. Throwing down a glove was regarded as a Many royal gloves have found a place in challenge to combat, and this curious old private collections. Henry VI.'s glove has a custom is still retained in the English gauntlet, is made of tanned leather, and is coronation ceremony. Kings were also lined with deer-skin, and the hawking glove invested with authority by the delivery of a of Henry VIII. is another interesting relic pf THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 27

a bygone age. The King kept his hawks at romance, there is every reason to believe Charing Cross, and in the inventories taken that^they have sometimes been used with after this monarch's death we read of " three sinister motives, as a large trade was done at payre of hawkes' gloves, with two lined with one time in poisoned gloves, delicately velvet ;" and again at Hampton Court there perfumed, to conceal their deadly purpose. were "seven hawkes' gloves embroidered." Some gloves which were the property of The hawking glove, of which an illustration James I. are of brown leather lined with white, is given, may be seen in the Ashmolean and the seams are sewn with silk and gold Museum. It is of a simple thread. The embroidery character, evidently in- is in gold and silver thread tended for use rather than on crimson satin, with a ornament. lining of red silk. They Gloves were not gene- are finished with gold

rally worn by women till fringe, and have three loops after the Reformation; but at the side. A glove of during the sixteenth and chaste design, worn by seventeenth centuries their Charles I. on the scaffold use gradually extended to is made of cream-coloured' the middle classes. Queen kid, the gauntlet embroid- Elizabeth's glove may be ered with silver and edged seen at the Bodleian with silver fringe. Queen Library, Oxford, and is Anne, on the other hand, believed to have been worn wore highly - decorated at the visit of the Virgin gloves of Suede kid, with Queen to the University in raised silken flowers on the 1566. It is fringed with gauntlet, and three loops gold, and is nearly half a of rose-coloured ribbon, to

yard in length ; it is made allow them to be slipped of white leather worked over the hands. They are with gold thread, and the further enriched with gold cuff is lined with drab silk. lace and embroidery, A Mary Queen of Scots' yellow Suede Court glove glove in the Saffron of George IV. gives the Walden Museum is of impression that the first light buff leather, wrought gentleman of Europe had (£>LOVG with silver wire and silk of jAroesi. a fist of tremendous different colours. It is proportions. Her Majesty lined with crimson satin, edged with gold Queen Victoria generally wears black kid lace enriched with sequins, and the opening gloves, except for Court functions, when is connected with bands of satin finished white glac^ kid gloves are invariably with lace insertion. This glove was presented used. on the morning of her execution to a member Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales of the Dayrell family, who was in attendance has a delicately-formed hand with tapering at Fotheringay Castle. In happier days fingers, and her size is six and a-half. Her Queen Mary gave an exquisitely embroidered Royal Highness adapts her gloves to the pair of gloves, with a design in which angels' occasion and toilette, and is always bten heads and flowers appear—her own work—to gante. her husband. Lord Darnley ; and the gloves The first Napoleon gave an impetus to generally of the Tudor period were more this branch of industry by insisting on ornate than those which adorn beauty's hands gentlemen wearing gloves on State occasions on the eve of the nineteenth century, and and at festive gatherings, and the fashion were, in most cases, wrought with the needle. spread through the countries of Europe with Though the history of gloves savours of astonishing rapidity.

Chapter IV. CURIOUS FOOT-GEAR.

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 31

Chapter IV. CURIOUS FOOT-GEAR.

" A tasteful slipper is my soul's delight." who had fallen under the sway of Cupid), — ''^ Fazio," Milman's this energetic lady engaged the services of a WELL-SHAPED foot has been con- neighbouring friar, and cut the gordian knot A sidered from the earhest times one of by marrying her faithful adorer. Nature's kindest gifts, and sober When primitive man first conceived the history and fairy lore have combined to give idea of producing some contrivance to us many interesting particulars respecting defend himself from cold, sharp stones, or this portion of the human anatomy. The the heated sand of the desert, his first effort similarity of the foot-gear of both sexes was to fasten to the bottom of his feet soles makes it impossible to treat the matter of bark, wood, or raw hide, which were separately, and as the subject is practically followed, in due course, by more elaborately inexhaustible, I propose only to illustrate the made sandals of tanned leather. These most curious and notable examples. were fastened in various ways, but generally One of the finest collection of shoes in the by two leathern straps, one round the instep, world is that at the Cluny Museum, Paris, while the other passed between the first and formed by the eminent French engraver, the late second toes. Egyptian sandals were some- Jules Jacquemart. This was enlarged by the times prolonged to a sharp point, and occa- purchase of the collection of Baron Schvitter. sionally were made of papyrus, or some

The Queen of Italy has also acquired a large flexible material ; but the commoner kinds

number of historical boots and shoes ; and were, as a rule, of wood or leather. Often to Mr. Joseph Box, another enthusiastic they had painted upon them the effigy of the collector, I am indebted for some of the wearer's enemy, who was thus literally trodden drawings used for illustrating this article. underfoot. Owing to their proximity, the A quaint story is told in a rare book, habits and customs of the Egyptians and entitled "The Delightful, Princely, and Jews were in many respects similar. The Entertaining History of the Gentle Craft of same Hebrew word denotes both a sandal

Crispin, the Patron Saint of Shoe Makers, and a shoe ; and it has been concluded that and his Brother Crispianus," According to shoes were probably confined to the upper this authority, they were the two sons of the classes, while sandals were used by those

King of Logia (Kent), and lived in the city compelled to work ; and slaves went bare- of Durovenum, otherwise Canterbury, or the foot. Court of the Kentish men. Having It will be seen from the sketches of embraced Christianity, during the Roman Grecian and Roman shoes that they eventu- invasion, they were in considerable danger, ally became an elaborate article of dress, and at their mother's instigation, to conceal bound to the foot and leg with lacings, and their identity, adopted humble attire, and ornamented in different ways. The senators devoted themselves to the modest craft of had boots of black leather, with a crest of

shoemaking, under the auspices of a shoe- gold or silver on the top of the foot ; and maker at Faversham, to whom they bound soldiers wore iron shoes, heavily spiked, in a themselves for seven years. This industrious similar manner to those now used for cricket, citizen appears to have received the appoint- so as to give the wearers a better hold when ment of shoemaker to the Court of Maxi- scaling walls in the attack of fortified places. minus, whose daughter Ursula fell in love An iron boot was also used for torturing with Crispin. After removing the usual Christians. As an instance of the luxury so obstacles (which, even in those remote times, characteristic of the age, it is stated that seem to have obstructed the paths of those Roman soldiers often had the spikes on their THE F. VOLUTION OF FASHION.

shoes made of gold. According to the testi- for we find the courtiers of the day improved mony of Seneca, Julius Caesar wore shoes of upon the prevailing mode by stufKing their the precious metal, a fashion emulated by shoes, and twisting them into the shape of a

Cardinal Wolsey many centuries after ; and ram's horn ; the point of which was attached Severus was fond of covering his with jewels, to the knee by a chain. The common to attract the attention of the people as he people were permitted by law to wear " the walked through the streets. The Emperor pykes on their shoon" half-a-foot, rich Aurelian forbade citizens a foot, men to wear red, while nobles and yellow, white, or princes had theirs green shoes, re- two-and-a-half feet serving these long. colours for wo- During the

men ; and differ- Plantagenet period ent shapes were it was usual to wear precribed by legal two shoes of dif- enactments to be ferent colours, and worn for the easy they were often distinguishment of slashed on the various trades and upper surface, to professions. In show the bright the reign of Domi- hose beneath. tian, the stalls of These were super- shoemakers in the seded by a large, public streets were padded shoe, so numerous as to gored over the necessitate an foot with coloured edict for their re- material, a fashion moval. imported from Our own ances- Italy, and exag- tors, the Anglo- gerated as much Saxons, wore shoes as the pointed of raw cow-hide, shoe had been. reaching to the Buskins were high

ankles ; and the boots, made of hair turned out- splendid tissue, ward. Those used and worn by the b y ecclesiastics nobility and gen- were a kind of try during the sandal fastened Middle Ages, with bands of generally on occa- leather round the sions of State. instep. The Nor-j They were also man half - boots largely adopted by had soles of wood, FOOT-GEAR OF DIFFERENT PERIODS players of tragedy. while the uppers They covered the were of a more pliable material. Those knee, and were tied just below. The sock, worn by the Crusaders were of chain, and or low shoe, on the other hand, was the later of plate armour. Very pointed toes emblem of comedy. were in fashion during the Middle Ages, and One of the greatest follies ever introduced these were carried to such a ridiculous length was the chopine, a sort of stilt which increased that the dignitaries of the Church considered the height of the wearer. These were first

it necessary to preach against the practice. used in Persia, but appeared in Venice about However, this did not result in its abolition, the Sixteenth Century, and their use was —

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 33

encouraged by jealous husbands in the hope an abbot. It is said, however, that Pope of keeping their wives at home. This desire, John, elected in 1316, was the son of a shoe-

however, was not realised, as the ladies went maker at Cahors ; and in the description of out as usual, and required rather more Absalom, the Parish Clerk, Chaucer tells us, support than hitherto. Chopines were very " the upper leathers of his shoes were carved ornate, and the length determined the rank to resemble the windows of St. Paul's Cathe- of the wearer, the noblest dames having them dral," which inclines one to believe in their half-a-yard high. priestly origin. Shakespeare re- From various fers to them when -^<2^*^ sources, we have he makes Hamlet ^-^^^ descriptions of say: — "Your royal shoes. ladyship is nearer Richard Cceur de heaven than when Lion had his boots striped with I saw you last gold ; by the altitude those of his of a chopine.'" brother John were He also alludes spotted with gold to the general use ANGLO-SAXON AND NORMAN SHOES, in circles. Henry of shoes for in. had his boots the left and right foot, when he speaks of chequered with golden lines, and every a man : square enriched with a lion. In the splendid Court of Edward III., the royal shoes were " Standing in slippers which his nimble haste elaborately embroidered. coronation Mad falsely thrust upon contrary feet." The shoes of Richard III. were covered with The exercise of the gentle craft of shoe- crimson tissue cloth of gold. Henry VIII.

GREEK AND ROMAN SHOES. MEDIAEVAL SHOES. making was for a long time carried on in is described as wearing square-toed shoes, monastic institutions, and increased the which were slashed with coloured silk, and revenues of the clergy. Richard, the first exposed a portion of the foot. Some worn Abbot of St. Albans, objected to canons and by his daughter. Queen Elizabeth, of bro- priests of his era associating themselves with caded silk, are remarkably clumsy in appear- tanners and shoemakers, not one of whom, ance, and have lappets which fasten over the in his opinion, ought to be made a bishop or instep. They form a striking contrast to 34 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

those used by the unfortunate Mary Queen below the knee, either in close rolls, like the of Scots (now in the possession of Sir James hay-bands of the modern ostler, or crossing William Drummond), which are of kid, em- each other sandal-wisc, as they are now worn

broidered with coloured silks ; the toes are in some districts of Europe, particularly in

QUEEN ELIZABETH S BOOTS. SHOE OF MARY QUEEN SHOE WORN BY CHARLES L OF SCOTS.

somewhat squarer, but in other respects resemble those in fashion at the present day. In speaking of curious foot-gear, the under covering of the leg and pedal extremities must be briefly referred to. Ancient works

A. ; B, BUSKIN C, CHOPINE ; PEAKED SHOE ; MILITARY BOOTS AND SPURS USED AT THE D, TUDOR SHOE. BATTLE OF NASEBY.

on costume frequently mention hose, socks, Russia and Spain. Cloth stockings, em- and stockings, which were made of woollen broidered with gold, are among the cloth, leather, or linen, and held in place by articles of dress ordered by Henry III.

cross-bands of the material twisted to a little for his sister Isabel ; and of a woman : ;

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 35

** mentioned in the Canterbury Tales," it is stockings, made in England ; and from that " said : Hire hosen weren of fine scarlet time she wore no others, in the laudable redde, ful streite yteyed (tied), and shoon desire to encourage their home manufacture full moist (supple) and newe." by her own example. The Queen's patron- In the reign of Henry VH. clocks on age, and the invention, in 1599, of a weaving stockings are dis- frame, by William cernible; and the Lee, Master of Poet Laureate of Arts, and Fellow this king, describ- of St. John's Col- ing the dress of lege, Cambridge, the hostess of an gave a great impe inn, gives an indi- tus to the stocking cation of how trade, which has boots were clean- been carried on ed with considerable success ever since, •'She hobbles as she goes, particularly in the With her blanket Midland counties hose, of England. Her shoone smear- Spurs can ed with tallowy be traced back to the It is supposed Anglo-Saxon pe- stock- that hose or riod, which is ings of silk were quite far enough unknown in this for this purpose. country before the They had no row- i6th middle of the els, but were made century. A pair with a simple of Spanish silk point like a goad, hose was present- and were fastened ed by Sir Thomas with leathers. Gresham to Ed- Early in the 15 th ward VL, his century spurs were father never hav- screwed on to a ing worn any but steel shoe, instead those made of of being fastened cloth. In the reign with straps. They of good Queen were long in the Bess, nether socks neck, and the or stockings were spikes of the row- of silk, jarnsey, els of formidable worsted crewel, or dimensions. From the finest yarn, a sketch of a spur thread, or cloth, worn at the Battle and were of all of Naseby, in the colours, "cunning- reign of Charles I., ly knit and curi- ancient b, shoes—a, c, d, e, Egyptian j f, Persian ; it will be seen that,' ously indented in g, h, greek; i, j, k, l, Phrygian and dacian. as progress was every point, with made in armour querks, clocks, openseams, and everything and military gear, considerable attention was else accordingly." Planche states, in the paid to this portion of the soldier's outfit third year of Elizabeth, Mistress Montague, indeed, it was more elaborate in design than is the Queen's silk-woman, presented Her now considered necessary. From a very early Majesty with a pair of black silk knit period spurs have been used by both sexes.

I) 2 ; ;

36 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

A curious custom was in vogue at the Orientals indicate reverence by uncovering beginning of the present century for ladies to their feet, and do so on all occasions when make their own indoor shoes. This fashion Western nations would remove their hats. was inaugurated by Queen Charlotte, who Their heads, being generally shaven, are was particularly deft in handling a beautiful always covered, and are surmounted by a set of shoemaker's tools, mounted in silver, head-dress which could not be replaced with- with ivory handles. Tradesmen bitterly com- out considerable trouble ; while for the feet plained that work tables in boudoirs were they have loose slippers, with a single sole, strewn with the implements of their craft made of coloured morocco or embroidered but, like many other feminine fads, it soon silk, which are easily thrown off. Few things passed away. About this period clogs were inspire them with greater disgust than for also used. These were made of wood, and anyone to enter their rooms with shoes on. served as a protection to shoes out of They think such conduct an insult to them- doors. A similar contrivance, with the addi- selves and a pollution to their apartment tion of an iron ring, leather strap and toe-cap, and it is considered the height of irreverence is still sometimes worn by farm servants, and to enter a church, mosque, or a temple with- is called a patten. Another form of clog, out removing them. Even classical heathen- consisting of a laced leather boot with wooden ism affords instances of this usage. The sole, is extensively used by the working Roman women were obliged to go barefoot classes in the North of England, and the in the Temple of Vesta ; the same rule sabot, a wooden shoe, is the ordinary foot- existed in that of Diana, at Crete ; and those gear of peasants on the Continent. who prayed in the Temple of Jupiter also It is well known that Chinese women of followed this custom. high rank deform their feet by compressing In the East, the public removal of the them in such a manner that it is afterwards sandal or shoe, and the giving it to another, almost impossible to walk ; and in Davis' accompanied by certain words, signifies a interesting description of the Empire of transfer of authority or relinquishing posses- China, he relates that whenever a judge of sion. We are told in the case of Ruth and unusual integrity resigns his post, the people Boaz, when her kinsman gave up his right to accompany him from his home to the gates marry her, in favour of her second husband, of the city, where his boots are drawn off "he drew off his shoe." Among the with great ceremony, and are afterwards pre- Bedouins, when a man permits his cousin to served in the Hall of Justice. marry another, or divorces his runaway In Japan a peculiar wooden sandal, having spouse, he generally says, " She was my a separate compartment for the great toe, is slipper; I have cast her off." Again, when in common use. Straw slippers are also shoes are left at the door of an apartment, worn, and a traveller starting on a journey they denote that the master or mistress is will strap a supply on his back, so that he engaged, and even a husband does not may have new shoes in case of need. They venture into a wife's room while he sees are lefts and rights, and only cost a halfpenny the slippers on the threshold. The idea the pair. Here one never finds those defor- is not altogether unknown among our- mities of the feet so common in China, and selves, as it is expressed in the homely ;" even in our own country. A graceful carri- proverb, " to stand in another man's shoes age depends so much upon the shoes worn. or when we speak of coming into a Heavy and stiff ones oblige the wearer to future inheritance as stepping into a " dead plant the foot solidly at every step. If the man's shoe." Also in flinging the slipper toes are very pointed it is at the sacrifice of after a departing bride, signifying that elasticity, and if the heels are too high the the father transfers his authority to the muscles in the ball of the foot are little used. husband. Chapter V. BRIDAL COSTUME.

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 39

Chapter V. BRIDAL COSTUME.

CERTAIN curious customs have been dower in case of divorce. Rich shawls, fine associated with the Ordinance of dresses, personal ornaments, money, and a Marriage from a very early period, and complete outfit of domestic utensils are among others may be mentioned the union always included in such a gift. Among of near relations in barbaric or semi- barbaric some of the Arab tribes the dower received tribes ; the providing of husbands and wives on such occasions, and called the "five for a family according to seniority (so that articles," consists of a carpet, a silver nose the younger members had to possess their ring, a silver neck chain, silver bracelets, and souls in patience till the elder ones were dis- a camel bag. Matrimonial overtures are posed of) ; the paying of an equivalent for generally made by the parents of the con- the bride's services to her father in money or kind ; and festivities often lasting over several days to celebrate the nuptials. The Rabbins acquaint us with the fact that seven days' feasting was an indispensable obligation on all married men, and that the bride was not consigned to her husband until after the days of feasting had expired, They were generally spent in the house of the woman's father, after which she was conducted in great state to her husband's home. When the bride was a widow, the festivities only lasted for MARRIAGE PROCESSION OF A BRIDE IN LEBANON. three days. Customs in the East are perpetuated from one genera- tracting parties in Persia, but after all has tion to another, and we now find among the been concluded, the bride-elect has nomi- inhabitants of the Orient the same mode of nally the power, though it is seldom exercised, life as was adopted by the patriarchs of old. of expressing her dissent before the connec- The description of the wooing of Isaac and tion receives its final sanction. Among Rebekah, for example, so graphically told in many Bedouin tribes the woman is not Genesis, differs in few respects from that of suffered to know until the betrothing cere- a young couple of the same rank in the monies announce it to her who is to be her present day. Handsome presents, consisting husband, and then it is too late to negative of jewels, apparel, &c., are presented to the the contract, but she is permitted to withdraw woman and her family, "and form part of her from her husband's tent the day after her :

40 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

marriage, and to return to her father ; in Various materials are employed in their is gold is necessarily rare, silver which case she is formally divorced, and manufacture ; henceforward regarded as a widow. On the less so, while others are composed of amber, coral, mother-of-pearl, and beads. We are told, when Rebekah approached her future home and saw a man walking in the distance, she evinced a curiosity, natural under the circumstances, and inquired about

him ; and on discovering that it was Isaac, " she took a veil and covered herself" It is still almost universal in the East for a woman, whose face is not concealed on other occasions, to envelop her head and body in an ample veil before she is conducted to her husband, and it is considered an indispensable part of the bridal costume. The details of the home coming are modified by the local usages and religions of the different countries. In Syria, Persia, and India, the bridegroom, in person, brings home the bride in some other countries this duty devolves on a near relative, and he remains at home to receive the lady on her arrival. From various sources, but particularly from indications in Scripture, we may gather that the Jews employed either of these methods, according to circumstances. Again, in Egypt the bridegroom ANCIENT EGYPTIAN BRIDAL COSTUME. goes to the Mosque when his bride is expected, and returns home in pro- value of her ornaments the Eastern bride cession after she has arrived. In Western

bases her claim to consideration ; and though Asia the procession usually walks, if the the Arab, as a rule, cares little for his own dress, he decks his wife as richly as possible, that honour may be reflected upon himself and his circumstances. The leg ornaments and bracelets are often enormously thick, and have no fast- enings, but open and compress by their own elasticity. It is not unusual to wear several on the same arm, reaching to the elbow. They form a woman's sole wealth, and are not treasured up for special occasions, as is usual among Western nations, but are used as part of of the daily costume. FESTIVITIES AT AN EASTERN MARRIAGE. THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 41 bride's future house is at no great distance in and here we find the Egyptian bride's dress the same town. In such cases she is often described as "all glorious within and wrought partially covered by a canopy, and in Central of gold, a raiment of needlework." Both and Eastern Asia it is the rule for her to be expressions refer to the same dress, and mounted on a mare mule, ass, or camel, imply that the garment was embroidered with figures worked with threads of gold. The Egyptians were famous for their embroideries, and some mummies have been found wrapped up in clothing curiously ornamented with gold lace. At the present day,

both in Egypt and Western Asia, it is usual for ladies of the highest rank to employ much of their time in working with the needle linen and cotton tissues in gold and silver thread and silk of different colours. The use of nuptial crowns is of great antiquity. Among the Greeks and Romans they were chaplets of flowers and leaves, and the modern Greeks retain this custom, employing

A GREEK BRIDESMAID. unless she is carried in a palanquin. Much, of course, depends on the social position of those married. Music attends such processions, and often dancing ; the Jews certainly had the former, and some think the latter also, at least, in the time of our Saviour. In Halhed's translation of the Gentoo Laws, and in Mr. Roberts's " Oriental Illus- trations," reference is made to the custom ot marrying the elder sister first, and the same usage is observed with regard to the brothers. When, in India, the elder daughter happens to be blind, deaf, dumb, or deformed, this formality is dispensed with ; and there have been cases when a man, wishing to obtain a younger daughter, has used every means in his power to promote the settlement of his future sister-in-law, so as to forward his own nuptials. Fathers, too, will sometimes exert their powers to compass the marriage of the MODERN GREEK BRIDAL COSTUME. elder daughter, when a very advantageous offer is made for the younger one. such chaplets, decorated with ribbons and It is generally believed that Psalm xlv., lace. Modern Jews do not use crowns in commonly known as " The Song of Loves," their marriage ceremonies, and they inform was composed on the occasion of Solomon's us that they have been discontinued marriage—probably to Pharaoh's daughter; since the last siege of Jerusalem by the 42 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

Romans. The information which Gemara the reverse side of the circle being formed by gives on this subject is briefly that the crown two clasped hands. This is a very common of the bridegroom was of gold and silver, or shape, and is shown in the illustration of the else a chaplet of roses, myrtle, or olives, and English wedding-ring E, dated 1706, where

A, JEWISH WEDDING RING, GERMAN, 17TH CENTURY; B, MODERN ITALIAN; C, ITALIAN, 14TH century; D, VENETIAN, i6tH CENTURY; E, ENGLISH, 1706; F, ENGLISH BRONZE BETROTHAL RING, 17TH CENTURY. that the bride's crown was of the precious white enamel fingers support a rose diamond. metals. There is also some mention of a The modern Italian peasant wedding-ring B crown made of salt and sulphur, worn by the is of gold in raised bosses, while C is of bridegroom, the salt transparent as crystal, silver ; F, bearing initials on vezet, is of the figures being represented bronze. A is a handsome thereon in sulphur. Crowns Jewish wedding-ring, bearing play an important part in the the ark, and D also has a nuptial ceremonies of the Hebrew inscription.

Greek Church ; they are also The gimmal betrothal ring still used by Scandinavian was formerly a favourite pat- brides. tern, and consisted of three The ring in former days circlets attached to a spring or did not occupy the prominent pivot, and could be closed so position it does now, but was as to appear like one solid given, with other presents, to ring. It was customary to mark the completion of the break these asunder at the contract. Its form is a symbol betrothal, the man and woman of eternity, and signifies the taking the upper and lower intention of both parties to ones, and the witness the keep the solemn covenant of intermediate ring. When the which it is a pledge, or, as the marriage took place these

Saxons called it, a "wed," were joined together and used from which we derive the at the ceremony. During the term wedding. The Jews sixteenth and seventeenth cen- have a law which proclaims turies it was a common prac- that the nuptial ring shall be tice to engrave these emblems of certain value, and must not of affection with some appro- be obtained by credit or gift. priate motto. It was from Formerly they were of large AN EASTERN BRIDE, Pagan Rome that European size and elaborate workman- nations derive the wedding- ship, but now the ordinary plain gold hoop ring, as they were used in their betrothals is used. long before there is any trace of them else- A wedding ring of the Shakespearian era where. has a portrait of Lucretia holding the dagger, In describing the bridal costumes of THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 43 different nations, it should be distinctly hold gods of both families are assembled borne in mind that a large majority of the before an altar decked with flowers and upper classes wear on such occasions the covered with offerings. Near stands a large traditional white satin and orange blossoms table, with a dwarf cedar; it also holds with which we are all familiar. Many, how- the Japanese Adam and Eve, and the mystic ever, prefer the picturesque national costume turtle and stork. The two special attendants associated with the land of their birth, and it of bride and bridegroom are called butterflies, has been my principal object, in selecting the and in their dress and colouring rival these illustrations, to make them as typical as beautiful insects, which in this country are possible. the symbol of conjugal felicity. The most The Greek marriage service is full of solemn part of the marriage ceremony is symbol, and the sketch gives a good the scene of the two-mouthed vase. At a idea of the bridal costume. signal, one butterfly fills the

The bridesmaid is attired in a vase, and the other offers it to gold embroidered jacket, a the kneeling couple, the hus- skirt of brilliant colouring, and band drinking first, and after- the crimson fez—the usual wards the wife. This draught head-gear of a Greek maiden. signifies that henceforward She is depicted scattering they are to partake equally of corn, an ancient rite always the bitters and sweets of the performed at the conclusion coming years. Rice is thrown of the ceremony. As she from either side, so as to gracefully sways backwards mingle, and the wicks of two and forwards, to the accom- candles are placed together, paniment of the jingling coins, to symbolize the joining of which do double service as body and soul. dowry and trimming, it is a The marriage processions pose and dress at once graceful of other Oriental nations and free. Formerly a wedding have already been referred to, garment was often passed and in India it is customary down from mother to daugh- to perform the ceremony ter, and such an example is under a species of canopy given in the soft yellow silk richly ornamented and lighted robe, lined with white and by lamps. The bride wears, enriched with elaborate em- in addition to the native cos- broidery. Tiny stars in deli- GARMENT FORMERLY WORN tume, a curious veil composed cate shades of red, blue, and BY GREEK BRIDES. of strings of gold beads and tas- green, divided by black lines sels. In Hindu marriages the {From South Kensington Museum ) form the design and proclaim sacred fire or oman (which is the industry and skill of the worker. These constantly renewed by throwing upon it scented robes, however, have not been used in oils, sandalwood, incense, and other aromatic Greece since the beginning of the seventeenth perfumes) is a prominent feature, and the century. union of a couple is consecrated by sprink- In Japan, the beautiful land of the lily and ling a handful of saffron, mixed with rice chrysanthemum, the bride usually takes little flour, on their shoulders. Finally, the more to her husband's home than her trous- husband presents his wife with a little golden seau, which is ample enough, as a rule, to image called talee^ a substitute for the satisfy even a woman's passion for dress. wedding ring, and worn by Indian women as The nuptials take place in the evening, and their symbol of matrimony. the bride is garbed in virgin white robes, A missionary— thus describes a Buddhist figured with a lozenge design. These gar- marriage : " The bride, loaded with jewel- ments are the gift of the bridegroom, and in lery, accompanied by women richly attired, them she passes from the home of her girl- entered the room, and sat down with the hood to that of her husband. The house- bridegroom on the floor. A number of 44 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. candles were then lighted, and the company member of the family who can contract a saluted and congratulated the happy couple, marriage in the legal sense as we understand and expressed their kind wishes by blowing it, but all his brothers are accepted by the smoke towards them, while a band of string wife as inferior or subordinate husbands. instruments discoursed sweet music. Two By this means they are kept well under the cushions were placed before the bridegroom, control of the superior husband, whom they on which a sword was laid, and food was regard as the " Big Father," and, as a matter also near them. Next the hands of each of form, any children who may be born are were bound together, then the two to each accepted by him. other with silken threads. This act was Thus the whole family are attached to the performed by the nearest relative present, soil, and seem to work in concord, and the and completed the ceremony." Brief, women have the satisfaction of knowing that indeed, are the forms of marriage indulged in the average course of Nature they can in by the people of Borneo. Each of the never become widows, and that there will contracting parties chews a betel nut ; an always be someone to work for them and elderly woman mutters some sort of incanta- their offspring. " It is the custom for the men

HINDU bridegroom's PROCESSION. tion, and brings the heads of bride and and women of a village to assemble when a bridegroom in close contact, after which they bride enters her home with her husbands, are declared man and wife, and are no longer and for each of them to present her with three regarded as twain, but one flesh. The rupees. The Tibetan wife, far from spending Cherokee form of marriage is perhaps the these gifts on personal adornment, looks most simple. The two join hands over a ahead, contemplating possible contingencies, running stream, emblematic of the wish that and immediately hires a field, the produce of their future lives, hopes, and aspirations, which is her own, and accumulates from should flow on in the same channel. A year to year, so that she may not be portion- peculiar custom of the Lascars is the putting less should she desire a divorce." of a ring on the great toe when they marry. The African tribes, of course, differ mate- Mrs. Bishop, who has explored Tibet and rially in their marriage customs, but some studied the habits and customs of the people, form of exchange for the services of the informs us that polyandry is favoured by the woman are insisted on, and often take the women of that country. The heir of the shape of a present of cattle to the bride's land and eldest son appears to be the only father. On the West Coast, in the neigh- THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 45 bourhood of Gaboon, where slavedom is amusing account of the toilet of a Fernandian recognised, there is an understanding that bridegroom: "Outside a small hut, belonging a wife may be purchased for a slave bundle, to the mother of the bride expectant, I soon valued at about ^^6 in English money, and discovered the happy bridegroom undergoing his toilet at the hands of his future wife's sister. A profusion of Tshibbu strings being fastened round his body, as well as his legs and arms, the anointing lady, having a short black pipe in her mouth, proceeded to rub him over with Tola pomade. He seemed not altogether joyous at the anticipation of his approaching happiness, but turned a sulky gaze now and then on a piece of yam which he held in his hand, and which had a parrot's red feather fixed on its convex side. This

was called ' Ntshoba,' and is regarded as a protection against evil influences on the important day. The bride was borne down by the weight of rings and wreaths and girdles of Tshibbu. Tola pomatum gave her the appearance of an exhumed mummy, save

her face, which was all white ; not from VEIL OF HINDU BRIDE. excess of modesty, for the negro race are reported to blush blue, but from being there appears to be no sliding scale as to smeared over with a white paste, the emblem youth, beauty, form, or degree. A bundle of purity." What a hideous substitute for contains specimens of every article sold by a the classical wreath of orange blossoms, and general store- keeper. The most important features of a slave bundle are a Neptune, or brass pan used for making salt, which is a current article of commerce, and a piece of native cloth, manufactured by these people for dress purposes, from a species of palm which grows on the river banks in great luxuri- ance. Both sexes anoint themselves with palm oil and other greasy sub- HINDU MARRIAGE CEREMONY. stances, and no greater compliment can be paid to an African what a contrast must be offered when the belle than to say she looks "fat and shining." cosmetic peels off and displays the dusky

Mr. Hutchinson, in his interesting work, skin upon which it is laid ! "Ten Years in Ethiopia," gives a quaint and According to Russian law, no man can 46 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. marry before he is eighteen years of age, or a handkerchief, and a little lappet of linen rests woman before she is sixteen ; nor after he is on the forehead, and is considered an eighty, and she is sixty. Priests are permitted inevitable symbol of marriage. Marriages to marry once. Secret marriages without are performed after banns, and much of the witnesses are regarded as invalid, and both finery used by the lower classes is hired for the occasion; and the crowns used in the Russian ceremony are generally the property of the Church. Formerly they were worn for a week, but this practice has been discontinued. There are three distinct periods in the life of a Norwegian woman, and each one has marked characteristics, particularly as regards dress. During girlhood, up to the time of confirmation, a solemn occasion for which there is much preparatory training, girls do not usually go from home to work, or earn

A RUSSIAN BRIDE. bride and bridegroom must be baptized persons. If a Russian takes a foreigner for a wife, she must bind herself in writing to bring up any children she may have in the Greco - Russian faith. According to an ancient custom the bridegroom presents his bride with the costume and jewellery worn at the marriage. The dowry comes from her family, and consists of a complete wardrobe, silver, linen, and household furniture of all kinds. The hair of an unm.arried woman NORWEGIAN PEASANT BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM. of the peasant class in Russia is dressed in a single plait hanging loose upon their own living. Among the poorer classes the shoulders, and tied with ribbon. this ceremony takes place when they are After marriage it is arranged in two about fifteen. Their petticoats are short and braids coiled round the head, covered with their hair is arranged in two long plaits. a cap tied behind, or with a cotton or silk After confirmation they are supposed to —

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 47 regard life from its more serious aspect, and is much feasting and merrymaking among to engage themselves with various duties, the friends of bride and bridegroom. according to their station. The third stage, Gipsies are, as a rule, married at a very of course, is married life, and it should be early age. A girl is generally betrothed at stated that neither men fourteen, and becomes a wife two years nor women can enter later. The marriage ceremony is performed upon the holy contract by a priest wearing a ram's horn as a sign of unless they can bring office, and, as becomes a nomadic race, the proof of their confirma- four elements—fire, air, earth, and water tion, and can show ample take a prominent position. The horn is the evidence of sufficient symbol of authority, and is often made use means to provide for a of in Scripture. So much were rams' horns household. The marri- esteemed by the Israelites that their priests age is preceded by a and Levites used them as trumpets in the

betrothal ceremony, when taking of Jericho ; and modern Jews when the young couple go to they confess their sins announce the cere- the church, accompanied mony by blowing a ram's horn. In ancient ORNAMENT WORN by their friends, and ex- Egypt and other parts of Africa, Jupiter BY SWEDISH change rings of plain gold Ammon was worshipped under the figure of PEASANT BRIDE. and presents of jewellery a ram, and to this deity one of these animals and apparel, which must be worn on the was sacrificed annually. It seems to have wedding day. At her marriage the peasant been an emblem of power from the remotest bride wears the crown. It has a rim of ages. It would therefore appear that the brass to fit the head, and the upper portion is of silver and gold, sometimes embellished with precious stones. Such crowns are generally heirlooms, and it is not uncommon for all the brides of one family for centuries to wear the same adornment for the head. A very usual dress on such an occasion is a plain skirt of some woollen material, with a bodice and full sleeves of snowy linen, a corselet of red and green, ornamented with bands and buckles, and a white apron trimmed with embroidery. A silver-gilt breast ornament is worn by Swedish brides. The band is wrought with bosses, and depending from it are small beaten discs, and a medallion bearing the sacred initials I.H.S. The bridegroom's hat in the illustration was probably an heirloom too, from its shape and fashion. He wears a red waistcoat cut short and fastened with brass buttons, and a loose cloth coat ornamented with embroidered revers. The black small clothes show to advantage a well-shaped leg, and on the feet are low shoes. Usually the festivities in connection with a peasant wedding in Norway are kept up for three days, and during the time there A bridegroom's toilet at FERNANDO PC. —

48 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. practice of the gipsy priest wearing a ram's the earlier portion of the present century horn suspended from a string round his it was a common custom for one to accom- neck at a marriage is derived from the pany the bridal couple on their honey- highest antiquity, and undoubtedly points to moon ; and it was also her duty to prepare the Oriental origin of the gipsy race. and present the "benediction posset," which " Various expedients have been resorted to by is referred to by Herrick in Hesperides:" different rulers ofsparsely " A short sweet prayer shall populated kingdoms to be said, And now the posset shall be encourage men to enter made married state. In the With cream of lilies not of kine ancient Rome the law And maiden blush for spiced forbade that a bachelor wine." should inherit any legacy The fashion of brides whatever, and in Sparta, wearing spotless white is under the rule of Lycur- a comparatively modern gus, they were not per- one. From accounts of mitted to have a part in bridal gowns in bygone the government, nor times, we find rich bro- might they occupy any cades, golden tissues, and civil or military post. coloured silks were em- They were excluded ployed for this purpose; from participation in and at the present day public festivals, except white is considered only on certain fixed occa- appropriate to the virgin, sions, and then the and is absolutely dis- women had the right to pensed with by those lead them to the altars, women who have been where they were beaten married before. with rods to the sound Of modern marriage of scornful songs. As customs in England late as the reign of there is no occasion to William and Mary, AN ENGLISH BRIDE. speak, for what woman widowers were taxed in is there among us who England at the following rates : —Dukes, has not made an exhaustive and complete ;^i2 I OS.; lower peers a smaller sum, and study of this vital matter ? It may, however, commoners one shilling each, if they comfort those who are beginning to wonder elected to remain in a state of single if marriage and giving in marriage is going blessedness. Widows also, especially those out of fashion, to know that during the first of high degree and fortune, were encouraged quarter of 1894,95,366 persons were joined to dip again in the matrimonial lottery, and together in the British Islands, an increase of children were betrothed at a very tender 18 per cent, over the first three months of the age. previous year, 1893, and 9 per cent, over the Bridesmaids in Anglo-Saxon times attended mean rate for the same quarter for the pre- on the bride, and performed specified duties, ceding ten years. Figures are incontro- particularly in the festivities which usually vertible facts, so our ears need no longer be followed on such occasions. Even during assailed by the bitter cry of "Darkest Spinsterdom." Chapter VI. MOURNING.

— a

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 51

Chapter VI. MOURNING

"The air is full of farewells to the dying for men, so common at funerals a few years And mourning for the dead." Lougfellcmj. ago. In " A History of ISIourning," by THE signs of mourning in ancient times Richard Davey, from which many interesting were by no means confined to the facts on this subject may be gathered, we apparel. Fasting, laceration of the learn that the Egyptians, over three thousand flesh, throwing dust on the head, and shaving years ago, selected yellow as the colour for

ANCIENT JEWISH FUNERAL PROCESSION.

the hair, were outward and visible signs of mourning garments. The Greeks chose grief, accompanied by piercing cries of the black as the most appropriate—a fashion most heartrending description. It was also followed by the Romans. The women of customary to abstain from ornaments, to Rome had robes of black cloth, with veils rend the cloth- of the same ing, and to put shade; but by on filthy gar- a wise dispen- ments of sack- sation, young cloth. This children were fabric was, and not compelled is still in the to adopt the East, made of symbols of woe. hair, which has A year was the an irritating ef- usual period for fect upon the mourninga hus- skin, and was band, wife, fa- for this purpose ther, mother, adopted as a sister, or bro-

pen it ent ial ther ; but rela- dress by the tions who had early Roman been outlawed, Church. The LAVING OUT AND MOURNING THE DEAD. imprisoned, or covering of the bankrupt, were head was another manifestation of sorrow— not accorded this mark of respect. Numa practice indicated by the hoods worn by published certain laws for the guidance of female mourners, and the flowing hat-bands mDurners, including one forbidding women E 2 ;

52 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. to scratch their faces, or to make an excep- sexes were expected to abstain from going to tional display of grief at funerals. The public ceremonies and places of amusement Emperor Justinian (a.d. 537) also turned his and women were not allowed to marry till a attention to this subject, and regulated the year had elapsed from the husband's death, expenses at funeral ceremonies, so as to without the special permission of the secure those who remained from the double Emperor. History, however, does not calamity of losing their friends and, at the record that their lords and masters applied same time, incurring heavy pecuniary lia- this rule to their own conduct. bilities on their The Greeks account. Pro- buried their vision was made dead before for burying sunrise, so as each person free to avoid osten- of cost, and for tation. Mourn- protecting the ing women took survivors from part in the pro- OF ENFOLDING THE DEAD various extor- THE MODE cession, and tions. Funds accompanied were appropriated for the purpose of inter- the chief female mourner in her visits to the ments, which were conducted by those grave, on the seven days following interment. appointed for the purpose. All persons were This custom, which was derived from the to be buried in the same manner; though East, was a usual feature in Jewish, Roman, those who desired to do so could, at their and Egyptian, as well as in Greek funerals. own cost, indulge in certain display, but this The funeral feast was a common practice additional expense was limited. On state among the classical ancients, and was kept occasions, as, for example, on the death of up to a comparatively recent period, in various

THE CUP OF CONSOLATION.

an Emperor or a great defeat, the whole European countries. The Cup of Consola- nation assumed the mourning garb. The tion consisted of light refreshments prepared defeat of Cannae, the conspiracy of Catalina, and sent in by the friends of mourners, who and the death of Julius Caesar, were all con- were not supposed to busy themselves with sidered of sufficient importance for the domestic affairs at such a time. The illus- observance of this custom. Private mourn- tration gives a good idea of the mourning ing could be broken among the Romans by habit adopted by the immediate family of the certain domestic events, as the birth of a son deceased. Caves were used for the disposal or daughter, the marriage of a child, or the of the dead, as well as elaborately constructed return of a prisoner taken in war. Both sepulchres, of which many remain to this THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 53

day. Earth burial was in favour with some funeral processions were magnificent. When nations, but in time of war or pestilence a king quitted this mortal sphere, the temples cremation was resorted to. The practice of were closed for seventy-two days, and there embalming we owe to the Egyptians, who were no sacrifices, solemnities, or feasts. carried it to a great state of perfection. Companies of two or three hundred men and One of the earliest embalmments on record is that of Joseph, whose body accompanied the Israelites on their journey through the Wilderness. He was placed in a cofifin, a distinction in the East only accorded to those of the highest rank, the usual mode being to simply swathe the corpse closely in wrappers and bandages, thus retaining the shape of the human form. The Jews largely used spices and perfumes, which were employed both for anointing and for wrapping up

PRIEST OF THE lOTH CENTURY, WEARING A BLACK DALMATIC EDGED WITH FUR, READY TO SAY REQUIEM MASS.

women, in mean attire paraded the streets, singing plaintive songs and reciting the virtues of him they had lost. They ate no meat, or food dressed by fire, and omitted their customary baths and anoint- ings. Every one mourned as for the death of a favourite child, and spent the day in lamentations. The Pyramids, those wonder- ful monuments to Egyptian monarchs, are memorials of the reverence and industry of AN ANGLO-SAXON WIDOW. the nation, whose high state of civilization is attested to by their works. the body—a very necessary precaution in hot Burial clubs were common among the climates. The Egyptians, on the death of a Anglo-Saxons, and heavy fines were inflicted relative or sacred animal (the cat, for on those who did not attend the funeral of a instance), attired themselves in yellow gar- member. The corpse was placed on a bier, ments and shaved off their eyebrows. Their and on the body was laid the book of the 2

54 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

Gospels, a code of belief and a cross as a mourning as a rule, though purple and brown symbol of hope. A silken or linen pall was were occasionally substituted. Chaucer, in used, according " The Knight's to the rank of Tale," speaks the dead per- of " clothes son. The cler- black all drop- gy bore lighted ped with tears," tapers and and, again, of " chanted the w i d d o w c s psalter, the habit of samite mass was per- brown." In formed, and a many cases, on liberal offering the death of made to the her husband, poor. the wife retired From a 9th for a year to a century MS. in convent, when the National she assumed Library, Paris, the nun's dress, is given a sketch of which the which clearly widow's weeds defines the HIRED MOURNERS of the present mourning habit day are a sym- of that period. The gown is evidently of bol. The mourning adopted by Katherine black woollen cloth, trimmed with black and of Valois, wife of Henry V., the hero of white fur; and a gauze veil of the same Agincourt, who sombre tint envelops the head. From the died at Vin- same source a drawing of an Anglo-Saxon cennes in 1422, priest is given, on account of his wearing a may be regard- black dalmatic, edged with fur, a vestment ed as the typi- only adopted when a requiem mass was per- cal widow's formed. dress of that In the Middle Ages black was used for period. It consisted of a black brocade cote hardi, edged with white fur, and further embel- with glass which

widow's dress of queen katherine

MOURNING IN SACKCLOTH. dk valois, in the year 1 42 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 55

for ornamenting the winged head dress. Planche tells us dukes and marquises were Her black woollen gown has a deep border- allowed sixteen yards for their gowns, sloppes ing of white fur. Some mourning habits of (or mourning cassocks) and mantles; an earl,

COSTUMES WORN BY KING PHILIP II. OF SPAIN AND HIS ATTENDANTS AT THE FUNERAL PROCESSION OF HIS FATHER. this period are represented in a splendid fourteen; a viscount, twelve; a baron, eight; " manuscript Liber Regalis," still preserved in a knight, six ; and all inferior persons, two Westminster Abbey. yards only; but an arch- They are composed of bishop had the same black fabrics in the pre- privilege as a duke. vailing fashion, and are Hoods were only per- furred with ermine. mitted to those above Froissart relates that the the degree of esquire of Earl of Foix, on hearing the king's household. of the death of his son, Margaret, Countess Gaston, sent for his of Richmond, the barber, ana was close mother of King Henry shaved, and clothed VII., issued, in the himself and his house- eighth year of his reign, hold in black. At the an ordinance for " the funeral of the Earl of reformation of apparell Flanders, all the nobles for great estates of wo- and others present were men in the tyme of attired in black " gowns ; mourninge." They and on the death of shall have their surcottes John, King of France, with a trayne before and the King of Cyprus another behynde, and clothed himself in black their mantles with mourning. traynes. The queen is At the end of the to wear a surcotte, with fifteenth century, it was the traynes as aforesaid, considered necessary in and playne hoode, and England to pass sump- a tippet at the hoode tuary mourning laws, lying a good length owing to the extrava- gentleman's MOURNING— TIME upon the trayne of the gance of the nobility in HENRY VII. mantell, being in breadth the superfluous usage of a nayle and an inche. cloth and other items at funerals. Habits After the first quarter of a year, the hood to and liveries were limited to certain quantities. be lined with black satin, or furred with 56 THE EVOLUTION OF FASfffON.

ermine ; and all ladies down to the degree of lasted for three days, by which time the a baroness, are to wear similar niourninge, arrangements for a simple interment were and to be barbed at the chin." Thesurcotte, completed, and the body was placed rever- with trayne, hood, barbe, and tippet, are ently in the ground. The obsequies of kings visible in the sketch of a lady of the sixteenth and queens, however, were carried over a century, taken from Pietro Vercellio's famous protracted period, consequently a waxen work on costume. The gentleman's mourning of black cloth and fur, is reproduced from a contemporary MS. Among the obsolete funeral customs, may be mentioned the Death Crier, the lying-in- state of all classes, and the waxen effigies of those of royal rank. Before newspapers published obituary notices, it was customary for the Death Crier, armed with a bell and attired in a black livery, painted or embroidered with skulls and cross-bones, to announce to the townspeople, and inhabitants of surrounding villages, that another had gone over to the majority. This functionary was

GERMAN widow's DRESS OF TO-DAY.

figure was prepared, which was dressed in regal robes, and substituted for the body as soon as decomposition set in. This fashion was in vogue till the time of William snd Mary, and in Westminster Abbey there is a collection of waxen effigies, which may be viewed by permission of the Dean. As like- nesses they are interesting, and they are also useful as costume studies. Of late years, in this country, mourning has been considerably modified, particularly for the male sex, who often content them- FRENCH LADY OF i6th CENTURY IN selves with a black hat-band and another on widow's weeds. the left sleeve of dark-coloured clothes. By Scotch law, whether a man dies solvent or in the employ of the Corporation, or civil insolvent, his widow may claim out of his authorities, and on the death of a member of estate, sufficient for mourning suitable to the Royal Family, he usually was accompanied her rank, and the same privilege applies to by the Guild of Holy Souls, who walked in each of her children, who are old enough to be procession, bearing lighted tapers and other present at their father's funeral. This right religious emblems. Lying-in-state usually takes precedence over any debts the dead man THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 57

may have contracted, and is a distinction and white alone the light which follows the not accorded to English, Welsh, or Irish night of mourning. Blue, the tint of the

widows. heavens, to which it ii hoped the spirit forms In most European countries black is the have taken flight. Yellow is typical of the

accepted colour for mourning ; though in dead autumn leaf, and brown the earth to different parts of the globe white, yellow, red, which the body returns. Violet, a royal colour,

THE DEATH CRIER. ENGLISH WIDOW S DRESS OF TO-DAY.

brown, and even blue garments are prescribed is generally used for the mourning of kings by custom as the emblem of death. and high dignitaries of the Church. Scarlet These shades have been selected for the is also used for royal mourning occasion- following reasons : —Black is symbolical of ally.* the gloom which surrounds one when those * For permission to reproduce some of the drawings who are nearest and dearest are taken. Black from Davey's " History of Mourning," I am indebted and white express sorrow mixed with hope, to Messrs. Jay, Regent Street, London.

Chapter VII. FXCENTRICITIES OF MASCULINE COSTUME.

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 6i

Chapter VII. ECCENTRICITIES OF MASCULINE COSTUME.

" The fashion wears out more apparel than the man." fined themselves to small designs drawn at a —Mtuh Ado about Nothing. considerable distance from each other; but " Through tattered clothes small vices do appear, the nobles had the privilege of ornamenting all." King Lear. Robes and furred gowns hide — their persons with large figures, chiefly of 'ANITY, thy name is woman," "As animals, subsequently transferred to their ^v vain as a woman," and similar shields, after they adopted a less scanty epithets, are hurled at our defence- costume, and this may be looked upon as less heads by our teachers and masters : yet the origin of family arms." The Picts, who how few of them pause for a moment to con- inhabited the north of Britain, were remark sider whether they are altogether free from able for their pictorial decorations, hence this human weakness or exempt from that their name, derived from an ancient word, love of dress picti^ which signifies painted. Our remote which they so ancestors also added to their other charms strongly condemn (which were doubtless irresistible to the in others. It does belles of that period), by deepening the tone not require a deep of their naturally ruddy locks, by washing study of the his- them in tory of costume water boiled to reveal some with lime. curious anomalies Their cloth- in this respect, ing was of and the sketches skins of ani- chosen for the mals killed purpose of illus- in the chase, trating this chapter and they will only give a were armed faint idea of what with imple- has been con- m ents of sidered appropri- bone and ate and becoming flint. The to the manly form Tyrian tra at different ders taught epochs. In them how Pelautier's " His- to construct toire des Celtes," various BRITON CLAD IN SKINS. we learn that weapons of "the toilet of the war from a ancient inhabitants of Britain, somewhat re- composition sembled that of the North American Indian of copper of the present day, and consisted of a series and tm, and briton at the time of the of elaborate paintings over the whole surface their flat roman invasion. of the body, which were no doubt originally wicker intended to protect the skin, from the incle- shields were superseded by those of metal mencies of the weather, but were afterwards ornamented with concentric circles. After used as a mode of embellishment and a the Roman Conquest of Britain, the skin means of distinguishing the different classes, garments were laid aside for dyed tunics and for it was reserved to freemen, and strictly close trousers. Over the tunic was worn a forbidden to slaves. The lower classes con- sagum, or short cloak, so named by the 62 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHID .

Romans from saicy a word of Celtic origin, tomb of Edmund Ironside, was "embroidered which signified a skin or hide. When the with the likeness of golden apples and orna- head was covered it was with a cap, from the mented with pearls." From this, we see that British cab, a hut, which, from its circular the needle played an important part in the shape, it somewhat resembled, for the dwelling- ornamentation of clothing, and to it we also places were composed of wattles firmly fixed owe the splendid Bayeux tapestry, worked in the ground and fastened together at the by Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror. This priceless curiosity is not only remarkable as a magnificent piece of workmanship, but affords a good idea of the dress of that period— the nth century. A tunic reaching to the ankle, leg bandages and shoes, a flowing mantle and flat cap, were the chief characteristics of the civil dress of this and succeeding reigns. The Normans, however, were clean-shaven. During the Middle Ages extravagance prevailed in both male and female costume. Handsome furs were in great request, and several times sumptuary laws were passed. Men wore eight indispensable articles of dress, the shirt, breeches, stockings, shoes, coat, surcoat or cotehardie, mantle, and head dress. The coat or under-dress corre- sponded with the tunic of the ancients, and was entirely hidden, with the exception of

CANUTE. top. A curious remnant of this fashion is the horn-like cap of rushes still made by Welsh children. The hair was usually long and flowing. Men of rank shaved the chin and allowed the moustache to grow to an extra- ordinary length. The Saxons and Danes are spoken of as wearers of " scarlet, purple, and fine linen," and the latter combed their hair once a day, bathed once a week, and frequently changed their clothing. By these means they found favour in the eyes of the women, and delighted the wives and daughters of the nobility. In a curious MS., written in the WILLIAM THE NORMAN, FROM BAYEUX reign of King Canute, the monarch is repre- TAPESTRY. sented in a tunic and mantle embellished with cords and tassels. The tops of his the sleeves, by the surcoat. There were two stockings are embroidered, but he wears kinds of mantles, one open in the front, the simple leather shoes. A vestment presented two sides connected by a strap resting on the by Canute to Croyland Abbey was of silk, chest, the other was open on the right side embroidered with golden eagles, and the rich and had one end thrown over the left pall which he ordered to be laid over the shoulder. Head coverings were of various THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 63 descriptions ; but many adopted hoods with which were shaped like a bagpipe and were long points, which were used to attach them worn by all classes. Many writers refer to to the belt when not in use. The assembling them as the devil's receptacles, as whatever of Parhament in the reign of Richard II. could be stolen was hidden away in their gives the lay, spiritual, and legal peers in folds. Some were wide and reached to the their usual costumes, feet, others to the knee, and they were full of and is reproduced from slits. Hose were often of different colours. Planche's " History of Parti-coloured suits were also in favour, and British Costume." The these were frequently scalloped at the edges Bishops are in cowls and embroidered with mottoes and other near the throne, the devices. Chaucer, who wrote the " Canter- judges in coifs and bury Tales " towards furred robes, the Earls the end of Richard's of Westmorland and reign, describes in the Northumberland stand most graphic manner in front. The Duke of the apparel of his con- Hereford, in high cap, is temporaries. "The to the left of the throne, haberdasher, carpenter, and Exeter, Salisbury, weaver, dyer, and and other peers are tapestry worker, all seated opposite the wealthy burghers of the judges. During the City of London, were reign of Richard II., clothed in a livery, and which lasted over twenty the handles of their years (1377 to 1399), knives, pouches, and there were many curious girdles were ornamented A CAPUCHON OR fashions in masculine with silver. The clergy GENTLEMAN OF THE HOOD, TIME OF attire. The peaked 14TH CENTURY. were not to be dis- EDWARD II. shoes, chained to the tinguished from the knee, were not more ridiculous than the laity, and rode on horseback, glittering with deep, wide sleeves commonly called pokeys, gold, in gowns of scarlet and green, fine with cut work. Their mitres embellished with pearls like the head of a queen, and staffs of precious metals set with jewels." Even the parish clerk is said to be " spruce and fop- pish in his dress." The author of an anonymous work called the " Eulo- gium," of this date, says : —"The commoners were be- sotted in excess of apparel. Some in wide surcoats reaching to their loins, some in a PARLIAMENT ASSEMBLED IN THE REIGN OF RICHARP IL garment reaching 64 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. to their heels, closed before and sticking out of the produce of their estates, and a con- at the sides, so that at the back they make siderable number of the younger sons of men seem hke women, and this they call by good families were the leading traders of the the ridiculous name gowne. Their hoods are 15 th and 1 6th centuries. little, and tied under the chins. Their lirri- The "frocke" frequently mentioned, and of pipes (tippets) pass round the neck, and which the modern frock coat is the degene- hanging down before, reach to the heels." rate descendant, was a sort of jacket or Towards the end of the 14th century men jerkin made occasionally with skirts, a style began to wear short clothes made to fit the associated especially, with Holbein's portraits body so closely that it often required the of Henry VHI, and his contemporaries. assistance of two people to remove them, The uniform worn at the present day by and it is from this period we can distinctly the Yeomen of the Guard stationed at the trace the difference between ancient and Tower of London, gives us the military modern dress ; in fact, our present fashions costume of the Tudor period. It is the —masculine and feminine—resemble to a oldest corps in her Majesty's service, and certain extent those worn during mediaeval was instituted by Henry VII. as the body- times. Then, as guard of the now, men wore sovereign. In overcoats with the dress of the tight sleeves, Bluecoat Boys felt hats also with at Christ's Hos- feathers, worn pital we have over a skull cap, that of the citi- and slung behind zens of London the back, and during the reign closely-fitting of Edward VI. shoes and boots. and Mary, when The Tudor blue coats were monarchs paid habitually used considerable at- by apprentices tention to the and serving men, adornment of yellow stockings their persons, also were in and were respon- common use. sible for strin- The badges on gent legal enact- the jackets ments calculated COSTUME OF THE REIGN OF HENRY VII of firemen and to encourage watermen date home manufacturers. Felt hat-making—one from this time; they were made of metal and of our oldest industries—was introduced into placed on the sleeve, in the i6th century, this country from Spain and Holland. A instead of being embroidered on the back or great impetus was given to this branch of breast of the garment as they had been pre- trade by a law passed in 157 1 which enjoined viously. Retainers in the households of the " every person above the age of seven years wealthy, were provided with surcoats and to wear on Sundays or holidays a cap of mantles twice a year, of their patron's wool, knit made, thickened, and dressed in favourite colour, and this was called the England by some of the trade of cappers, livree, from a French word signifying to dis- under the forfeiture of three farthings for tribute. Trade guilds and members of the every day's neglect." In 1603 the felt learned professions, also adopted a distinct makers became a Corporation with grants style of costume. Lawyers, who were origi- and many privileges. Throughout the nally priests, of course wore the tonsure; but Middle Ages the upper classes frequently when the clergy ceased to interfere with engaged in commerce. Bishops, abbots, and secular affairs the lay lawyer continued this nobles personally superintended the disposal sign of office, and also wore a coif. Th^ir THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 65 gowns were capacious and lined with fur: Hollingshead, in The Chro7iicle, justly states and the Justices of the King's Bench were in reference to the fashions of the period : allowed liveries by the King, of cloth and " Nothing was more constant in England silk. Budge, or lambskin, and than inconstancy of attire." miniver were provided for the A few years since, behind trimming thereof, and the some ancient panelling at Had- colour appears to have varied don Hall, Derbyshire, was dis- in different reigns, but for a covered a washing bill (with long time green prevailed. other things appertaining to The courtiers of Elizabeth the i6th and 17th centuries) discarded the " frock e cote" for which gives us a good idea of quilted and stuffed doublets and the various articles of dress trunk hose, slashed and orna- then worn. Reference is made mented in the most quaint and to the ruff, which is too well extravagant manner. Below known to need description ; to these were worn stockings em- bafides made of linen and broidered with birds, beasts, cambric, from which those now and other devices, "sewed up used by the clergy took their close thereto as though they origin, and from which we de- were all of one piece." Trunk rive the modern word bandbox. hose were appropriately named, There were three kinds—some as they were often filled with that stood upright, others were wool, bran, and other materials. EARL OF SURREY, TIME allowed to lie flat upon the At last they became of such shoulders, as shown in the OF HENRY VIII. enormous size that it was neces- drawings of Charles I. and II., sary to construct swings in the Rouses of and those which were embroidered and Parliament in place of the ordinary fixed trimmed with lace. The shirt applied to the seats, for the accommodation of those wear- under-garment of both sexes, and the half- ing this singular article of attire. Enormous shirt referred to ruffs of muslin and lace encircled the necks the stomacher of dandies of the Elizabethan era, and they over which the appear to have had waists which would excite dress was laced. the envy of the belles of the latter part of the Boot hose were 19th century. In fact, the gallants of that made of a variety day were even in advance of the fair sex, in of materials, and their love of fantastic costume : and as were occasionally called nether

stocks ; socks were sometimes put

over them ; and tops were of Hol- land linen or lace, and formed the lining of the full hanging boots of the Cavaliers. During the CHARLES L Civil War the dress worn by the King's adherents, consisted of a doublet of silk or satin with loose sleeves, slashed up the front; the collar was generally of point lace, and a short cloak rested carelessly on one shoulder. The hat was a broad- COURTIER IN THE REIGN OF ELIZABETH. brimmed beaver with a plume of feathers, F —

66 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

and trunk hose gave way to breeches. The mistresses." The beard was worn in different Roundheads or Republican Party went to ways, but the most usual shape was what the opposite extreme. They cut their hair Beaumont and Fletcher, in their '' Queen of

CHARLES II. AND HIS QUEEN WILLIAM III. (1694) GENTLEMAN AND LADY OF i8tH (1662). CENTURY.

close, avoided lace and jewels, had plain Corinth," call the T beard, consisting ot a linen or cloth suits of a grey or brown tint, moustache and imperial : with a hat somewhat resembling the modern "His beard, i' T, chimney pot. Which now he put the form of a The Roman T ; your T beard is the fashion, About this period we also hear of the And two-fold doth express the enamoured courtier." waistcoat, which was cut Shakespeare also tells us, high at the neck, and was it was often dyed different made with sleeves. Neck- colours. cloths and cravats of Everyone tried to rival Brussels and Flanders lace his neighbour in the size were tied in a knot under of his peruke, till they be- the chin, and had square came so preposterous that ends. Another peculiar Charles II. showed his dis- feature of masculine cos- favour by writing a letter tume towards the end of to the University of Cam- the 17 th century consisted bridge forbidding the of petticoat breeches with members to wear periwigs, drooping lace ruffles, such smoke tobacco, or read as adorn the nether limbs their sermons. History of Charles II. Patches does not relate what effect and perukes were also the King's censure had adopted, and the former upon the head - gear of fashion, a revival of an old students attending the col- Roman custom, had politi- leges, but it is absolutely cal significance according WALKING DRESS, 1830. proved that they paid no to where they were placed heed to his latter com- on the face, and were bitterly ridiculed by mands. It was the fashion for men to comb numerous satirical writers. " I know many their perukes in public, and curiously-chased young gentlemen," says Middleton, in one of combs of bone and tortoise-shell, were carried his plays, " who wear longer hair than their in the pocket with the snuff-box, another THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 67 indispensable appendage of a fine gentle- We have only to cast our eyes down the man. vista of ages to find that British costume has In the 1 8th century the broad hat brims been suited to the needs, habits, and customs were turned up at the sides, and, in the racy of the people, and periods at which it was vernacular of the day, " each gallant cocked worn. Skins of animals were approptiate to his hat according to his fancy." Shoe buckles the hardy cave dwellers who inhabited this became general in the reign of Queen Anne, country at an early period m the world's and displaced the ribbon rosettes formerly history. The simple dress of the Anglo- worn. Planche accurately describes the Saxons fulfilled the requirements of a primi- fashions of that day. "The square-cut coat tive race ; and the furs and rich fabrics was stiffened with wires and buckram, and brought home by the Crusaders were adapted the long-flapped waistcoat with pockets almost to the higher state of civilization which pre- met the stockings. There were hanging cuffs vailed in the Middle Ages. In the i6th with lace ruffles, square-toed shoes with red century the Renaissance (of art and culture) heels, and hats laced with gold or silver was specially noted for richness of attire. galloon." During the i8th century a mixture of styles At the beginning of the 19th century many which had found favour with previous important changes took place. Excepting generations was the most marked feature in for Couit dress, cloth was substituted for the costume of that period, and this equally velvet and other rich fabrics. The coat was applies to the two first decades of the present open, displaying an elaborate shirt-front, one. Masculine attire at the present day, stock and flowered waistcoat ; and the skirt, though simple and practical, has few points though full, fell in natural folds. Trousers of beauty to recommend it. Briefly, it were very tight, and held in place by a strap resolves itself into a series of woollen beneath the foot, and hats displayed narrow cylinders which changeth not from genera- curved brims. tion to generation.

Y 2

Chapter VIII. ^ A CHAT ABOUT CHILDREN AND THEIR CLOTHING.

—

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 71

Chapter VIII. A CHAT ABOUT CHILDREN AND THEIR CLOTHING.

" The childhood shows the man, body, passed under the right arm and over the day." Milton. As morning shows the left shoulder or forearm. The girdle OF children's dress in olden times we have sometimes consisted of a cord, at others of singularly few details, and, as a rule, metal bands, and by drawing the chiton over

it may be concluded that their raiment it, a double thickness of the fabric covered was fashioned on similar lines to that worn the vital organs of the body. Boys wore the by the men and women of the country in tunic and toga, and the latter is supposed to which they lived, and was more or less orna- have been oblong, with the corners rounded mented, according to their station in life. off, so as to give a semicircular effect. Hats One or two biblical references enlighten us were not commonly worn, except by the poor as to Eastern customs. On the authority of or when on a journey, a fold of the toga or St. Luke, our Saviour in infancy was wrapped mantle serving for a head covering, and in swaddhng clothes. "Samuel," we are sandals protected the feet. told, " being a child, was girded with a linen The Egyptian labouring classes allowed ephod," which appears their children to be nude, to have been a close and infants were un- robe or vest reaching familiar with swaddling from the shoulders to clothes. The working the loins, and confined man and boy had simply by a girdle. Consider- a loin cloth and girdle, ing the chmate and the and the girl a loose habits of the people, it tunic fastened with was probably the only strings at the neck and garment used in sum- reaching to her feet. mer, but in cold weather On the other hand, was supplemented, we children of the upper presume, by the little classes in Egypt were coat his mother bought repetitions of their elders him from year to year, on a small scale. Girls when she and her hus- wore a linen skirt em- band came to offer the broidered in colours annual sacrifice, at Shi- and fastened with a CHILDREN OF CHARLES L loh, where Eli, the High bright sash, or suspended a painting Vandyck.) Priest, lived. A coat of {After by from the shoulders, and many colours was also over this a loose trans- presented to Joseph in his youth as a mark parent robe with long sleeves. The male cos- of Jacob's affection for the child of his old tume consisted of a loin cloth, and a full robe age. with short sleeves, or a tunic, and both sexes Greek and Roman children of the gentler had elaborately curled or plaited wigs, as the sex are usually represented in the chiton, or natural hair was only allowed to grow in loose classical gown, combined with a shawl times of mourning. or himation weighted at the four corners, so The Roman occupation of Britain left its

as to assist the wearer in adjusting it. How impress for a long period on the costume of to put on this garment was carefully taught the Anglo-Saxon race. The long-sleeved as part of a girl's education. The long end banded tunic was the usual habit of the was first thrown over the left shoulder. The industrial classes through the Middle Ages front part was arranged in folds across the and leg bandages and cross gartering preceded 72 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

breeches. Quite young the common materials for boys appear in this dress, wearing apparel in this and little girls are seen in country were cotton, linen, ancient MSS. in the kirtle and woollen. and gunna, the equivalents Among the Anglo-Saxons of the modern petticoat and and their pagan ancestors dress. Their hair, how- the desertion of children ever, was allowed to fall sometimes occurred, but as naturally, or was dressed the influence of Christianity with two pendant plaits, increased, it was regarded and was not concealed, as as a crime, and a law was was so often the case with passed for its repression. adult females, by means of For fostering a foundling the head-rail. The mate- the State allowed 6s. the rials used in clothing were first year; 12s. the second; to a great extent the pro- and 30s. for the third year; duce of household industry. and afterward the foster The women servants were parent was to receive a sum employed in spinning, varying according to the weaving, and sewing, and appearance of the child. ladies of the highest rank Children bereft of their did not disdain to partici- father, remained under the pate in such labours. mother's care, but until the Several articles of dress eldest child became of age were derived from the were subject to the guard- tanner, who worked up his ianship of the husband's leather into shoes, ankle relations. Mothers usually leathers, and leathern hose. nursed their own children, The art of tanning skins cradles were used, and for with the wool or hair on, the first few months their was also practised, and clothing was swathed with dyeing was in great request, a bandage. In this com- for in a rude pact form age a love of they were gaudy co- more easi- lours is a ly carried, natural cha- though racteristic of the con- the people. straint to The most which they skilful artifi- were sub- cers were jected, pro- found in the bably pre- r elig i ous vented that houses, but free deve- under each lopment of landowner the limbs, serfs were which we trained in now consi- the mecha- der so essen- nical arts. tial to health Silk was and beauty. worn by the If very poor, wealthy, but CHILDREN S COSTUME, PRESENT DAY, the father THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 7?, was allowed to sell his son into slavery for stockings, and a small round cap placed on seven years, providing the consent of the the side of the head. The dress of little child was obtained, and one ten years old girls niay be found on various monumental could give evidence. Until a daughter was effigies, in which they appear like their fifteen years of age, her father could marry mothers, in full skirts, sometimes distended by a fardingale, the body imprisoned in whalebone to the hips, a folded ruff encircUng the neck, and their stockings (according to Stubbs) were of the finest yarn, silk, thread, or cloth that could possibly be had, of changeable colours, cunningly knit, with curiously indented points, clocks, and open seams. The shoes were of black, green, white and yellow velvet, or of leather

her as he pleased, but afterwards had no power to do so. A boy of fifteen could enter the monastic life if so disposed, and a girl at a somewhat later period. Monasteries offered the best education then procurable, and the clergy were directed to " teach youth with care, and to draw them to some craft." Schoolboys appear to have been kept in order, by the dread of personal chastisement, and great respect and reverence was exacted by their elders. stitched with silk and embroidered with gold In the dress of the Blue-coat School and silver all over the foot." (Christ's Hospital), we see the ordinary The paintings of Vandyck bring graphically costume of boys of the Tudor period. It before us the picturesque elements of the dress consisted of a long coat reaching to the heels of the Stuart era. There is an air of richness and knee-breeches, a striped vest, yellow and refinement about the long skirted silken 74 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

frocks embellished with lace, the pointed leathern belts, show to greater advantage. collars, and beaver hats with trailing feathers Queen Victoria inaugurated a new system of universally worn, and the quaint lace caps, clothing for boys, when she dressed the young which, by a turn of fashion's wheel, have been Princes in Scotch and sailor suits, and the remodelled for the children of to-day. wardrobes of all classes have been consider- At no period in the history of costume ably extended of late, by the open-air life and were the styles so offensive to those with a outdoor sports in which every self-respecting lad indulges. Cricket, tennis, boating, foot- ball, and cycling, all imperatively demand appropriate apparel, and tailors now give reasonable attention to this important branch of their business, and provide fabrics and designs suited to the needs of the rising generation. Habits of personal cleanliness and the influence of dress on the minds of growing

true conception of colour and form than in the first half of the nineteenth century. We have only to turn to the sketches of Leech and contemporary artists to find bare necks and arms, conspicuous underwear, very short skirts distended by a stiffened petticoat or crinoline, white cotton stockings, low shoes fastened by a strap and single button, mush- room hats, aprons and pinafores devoid of elegance and grace, and the hair cut close girls is hardly realized except by those to the head or arranged in rows of stiff ring- directly concerned in education. Many a lets. Nor did the boys of England, in sensitive child's character has been warped trousers buttoned high on short jackets, or by the thoughtless jeers of schoolfellows, with tunics worn with frilled linen collars and who were quick to perceive that her clothing THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 75

was not up-to-date or of at my disposal, I am enabled such good material as their to put before the reader own. On the other hand, examples of children's vanity, envy, and uncharit- clothing which are artistic in ableness have been engen- form, light of texture, and dered by foolish mothers, which in no way impede who have provided their the physical development. daughters with inappropri- Those who have the care ate and extravagant outfits. of children should remem- Though many advocate ber what a sacred charge uniforms with distinctive is imposed upon them, and trimmings for girls' colleges, that their future health there are drawbacks to the mainly depends, upon the scheme being adopted. manner in which they are Such a course would pro- clothed during the first few bably destroy the individu- years of life. There must ality which we all desire to be no tight bands, belts, or see applied to the choice garters to prevent circula-

of clothing, and it would tion and to cause organic leave no field for original troubles; and where corsets ideas. Children must be are dispensed with, as hap- trained to select and wear pily they are in many cases their clothes to the best where growing girls are advantage, and it is folly to concerned, the weight of think that they will do so the clothing should be borne by intuition. Some may by the shoulders, not the possess naturally an artistic waist, and this is ensured by sense and a keen eye for cutting undergarments in colour, but they are cer- the princess or combination tainly in the minority, and forms. Many young peo- rational dress ple suffer from reformers have being carelessly pushed sensi- shod, and ble ideas to the hideous mal- verge of absurd- formations of ity, till now the the feet arise name is almost in c o n s e- regarded as a quence, while term of re- obscure di- proach. seases of the How much brain can we owe to pio- sometimes be neers of chil- traced to heavy dren's dress re- head-gear, form, and espe- and the strain cially to Messrs. of over-study. Liberty, who Hats should be evolved what of light con- is generally struction, and known as the afford a grate- aesthetic style ful shade to in dress. From the eyes, if sketch e- cour- that far-reach- teously placed ing ailment of 76 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. civilisation, short sight, is to be successfully with at least an elementary knowledge of the combatted ; and special attention must be construction and functions of the human paid to infants, who may often be seen in body ? The ignorance of the average nurse- public thoroughfares with a hot sun beating maid is appalling; and though a board school down upon them, and the nurse oblivious to education may have acquainted her with the the fact. The sight of a tender infant en- mysteries of the First Book of Euclid, or the trusted to the care of a young woman, who rudiments of music, the curriculum rarely has not the glimmering of a notion of how to includes the simplest instruction on the

its fill look after fragile body, must any healthy training of children ; and, in right-minded person with indignation. Is it consequence, the high rate of infant unreasonable to expect those who undertake mortality in this country is a national the charge of children to acquaint themselves disgrace. Chapter IX, FANCY COSTUME OF VARIOUS PERIODS.

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 79

Chapter IX. FANCY COSTUME OF VARIOUS PERIODS.

" The dome, where pleasure holds her midnight reign, were reversed. The churl was elected to Here richly decked, admits the gorgeous train ; represent the Pope; the buffoon was made a Tumultuous grandeur crowds the blazing square. cardinal; the lowest of the The rattling chariots clash, the torches glare." and mob assumed for the time being the garb of the priesthood, DURING the Roman occupation of and took possession of churches, where they Britain, many sports and pastimes, parodied every part of the sacred service, with their appropriate costumes, were and sang masses composed of obscene songs. introduced into this country from Southern Dramatic representations were so tainted Europe and the East, and at a very early by the grossness and licentiousness of the period mummings were popular with the age, that priests were prohibited from attend-

people. These were primitive masquerades, ing them, till the Church introduced religious where the actors, if we may judge from plays, founded on scriptural incidents, and antique illuminations, generally mimicked which were known as miracles and mysteries. the brute creation rather than human beings. For these' the actors were trained by the They often appeared between the courses at clergy, and sacred edifices and vestments banquets, and on important occasions ela- were placed at their disposal, to give truth borate pageants were arranged. Ships filled and lustre to the representations. with mariners were sometimes introduced, or There were frequent tournaments after the towers garrisoned with armed men, while the Norman Invasion, and these were patronized actors portrayed some allegorical lesson or and encouraged by Richard Coeur de Lion. historical incident. From this era they occupied a prominent place A well-known event intimately connected in the national institutions and history, and with masking was the narrow escape from afforded many opportunities for the display death by fire of Charles VI, of France, on of picturesque costume. Ladies on these January 29th, 1392. The king, with eleven occasions were conspicuous, and sometimes of his knights, for the amusement of the rode in parti-coloured tunics with short Court, dressed like savages, in tight-fitting hoods and tippets wrapped about their garments of linen covered with flax, and heads. Their girdles were decorated with were dancing before the Queen and the gold and silver, and they carried small swords. Duchess de Berri, when the Due d'Orleans The space marked out for the combat was with a torch accidentally ignited the inflam- surrounded by raised seats for high - born mable costume of a masker, who was chained dames, princes, and the judges of the conflict. to four others. The Duchess protected the Knights wore their ladies' colours on their King by wrapping him in the train of her helmets, emblazoned on their clothing, and mantle, but four persons died in great agony. on the trappings of their horses; and throngs Edward III. issued an ordinance against of troubadours, heralds, and minstrels dressed vagrants who exhibited scandalous mas- in gorgeous attire, were present to discharge querades in low ale-houses, and directed that their duties, and to give importance to the such persons should be whipped out of spectacle. London. The Feast of Fools was one of The ancient English Morris Dance, per- the most singular of these exhibitions. It formed with other quaint usages on the ist somewhat resembled the Roman Saturnalia, of May, is supposed to be of Moorish origin. and was enacted at Christmas. In England It is depicted on an antique stained glass the celebration of this festival does not window at Betley, in Staffordshire. The appear to have been attended with the same May-pole and the Man with the Hobby excesses as were commonly practised on the Horse (who represents a Moorish King, and Continent, it but was nevertheless a season is the consort of the May Queen), occupy a of licence, in which order and discipline prominent position. The other characters ;

8o THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

are the Fool, the Lesser Fool, Tom the vocal parts performed by many of the nobility, Piper, a Spaniard, the Franklin or private in fancy dress. Here, too, there was a display gentleman, a Churl or peasant, the May of fireworks in the garden and from the river. Queen, a Nobleman, and a Friar. The Almack's new Subscription and Assembly dresses were adorned with bells, intended to Room was opened in February, 1765, under sound the measure of the dancers. They distinguished patronage; and Gibbon men- were of different sizes, and were called the tions a masquerade at a rival establishment, fore bell, the second bell, the treble, the the Pantheon, which he states was above par tenor, and the great bell. in magnificence, and below par in humour, Planche, in his valuable work, the " Cyclo- and cost jQ'^(ioo. paedia of Costume," states the earliest illus- Five o'clock was the dinner hour of tration of a bal costume is in a MS. of the fashionable people during the eighteenth fifteenth century, in the Ambrosian Library century, and three for those of lower rank. at Milan, and he gives a reproduction from At eleven p.m. supper was usually served, an old painting on wood dating from 1463, and breakfast was from nine to eleven a.m. representing a dance by torchlight at the The House of Commons commenced sitting Court of Burgundy. Each person holds a at two, and the Opera began at seven. long lighted taper, and this dance, up to the At this period the domino (evolved from sixteenth century, was usually reserved for the priestly cowl) was in great request, and wedding festivities. In England masked was used in the boxes of theatres for purposes balls were rare before the reign of William of concealment, and by those of questionable III., and in France they first took place morals. Though the large hoop towards the during the regency of Philip, Duke of Orleans, close of the eighteenth century was only when the Opera House was converted into a worn at Court, or in full dress, the pocket ball-room. Father Sebastian, a Carmelite hoop for distending the panniers was still in friar, devised a means of elevating the floor vogue. For the abolition of the Court hoop, of the pit to the level of the stage, and of we are indebted to George IV., whose taste lowering it at pleasure. in dress was unimpeachable. Powder and Ranelagh and Vauxhall Gardens, and patches maintained their ground till 1793, Belsize House, Hampstead, were also places when they were discarded by Queen Charlotte of popular resort, and scenes of many enter- and the Princesses. Aprons were regarded tainments during the eighteenth century. as a necessary item of a fashionable costume

There were pyrotechnic displays, bands of up to 1 750, and the watch and etui adorned the music, frequent balls, and facilities for dinner waist, necklaces sparkled on the bosom, and and supper parties. The lawns were dotted bracelets were worn over long gloves. with arbours, lakes, and artificial cascades The French Revolution aff'ected masculine the trees were festooned with coloured lamps, costume; and in 1789 were introduced into and the costumes of those who frequented this country the muslin cravat, in which the these gatherings were elaborate and costly. chin was partially concealed, stand-up collars, From the writings of Horace Walpole and Hessian boots, and round hats of beaver. others, we learn that private open-air galas Scarlet coats were much in vogue about 1784, were of common occurrence among the aris- and an anecdote in " The Life of Sir Astley tocracy, and he gives a description of a Cooper " represents him as returning from festino at Northumberland House in honour a dancing academy in a scarlet coat, a three- of the Marquess of Tavistock and his bride; cocked hat, a black glazed stock, nankeen when arches and pyramids of lights alter- knee-breeches, and silk stockings. This may nately surrounded the enclosure, and festoons be regarded as the ordinary costume of a of lamps edged the railings. In 1761 Her gentleman at that period. Majesty Queen Charlotte surprised her hus- Wigs had begun to go out of fashion as band on his birthday with a splendid garden early as 1763, in which year the wigmakers party, followed by fireworks, a cold supper of petitioned King George III. to support the a hundred dishes, and an illuminated dessert. trade by his example. " The hair," says The Duke of Richmond celebrated a similar Malcolm, "was dressed high on the head, occasion with a masked ball and music—the whitened with powder, and alternately plaited —

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. and turned up or queued behind. When Waverley quadrille, led by the Countess the hair powder tax —one guinea per annum de la Warn —was enforced in 1795, thousands of heads Scotch quadrille, led by the Duchess of reverted to their natural colour. Buccleuch, Some brilliant fancy dress balls (with a Cossack quadrille, led by Baroness Bremon. view to encouraging home trade) have taken Greek quadrille, led by the Duchess of place during the Leinster. Victorian era. Of Prince Albert, the first, which as Edward III, was given by the wore a costume Queen and Prince copied from the Consort at Buck- effigy of that king higham Palace in in Westminster 1842, a permanent Abbey. It con- memorial exists sisted of a long in two handsome tunic of gold and volumes compiled blue brocade, by J. R, Planche, reaching to the containing care- ankles. The fully coloured il- collar, which fitted lustrations of the close round the various dresses, neck, was bor- and autograph dered with purple portraits of the velvet, thickly wearers. They studded with form an invaluable jewels. The tunic, book of reference which had an for those desiring opening up the accurate represen- centre to the tations of the cos- height of the knee, tume of the was bordered and period of Edward enriched with III. (1327-1377)- jewels to corre- A special feature spond with the of this ball was a collar, as were the series of costume wristbands. The quadrilles, ar- hose were scarlet, ranged by ladies also the shoes, of the Court and which were em- others of high broidered with rank. They were gold. Over the danced in the fol- tunic. His Royal lowing order : Highness wore a French quad- mantle reaching r i 1 1 e, led by to the heels, com-

H . R . H. the posed of the rich- Duchess of Cam- PRINCE ALBERT AS EDWARD III. est scarlet velvet, bridge. bordered by a Spanish quadrille, led by the Duchess of broad gold figured lace, set on each side with Buccleuch. large pearls. It was lined with ermine, and German quadrille, led by the Duchess of connected across the breast by a band of Sutherland. purple velvet, studded with diamonds, rubies, Crusaders' quadrille, led by the Mar- and emeralds, and in the centre was a tur- chioness of Londonderry. quoise of immense size and perfect colour. G 82 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

The band was fastened to the mantle on For the second royal ball in June, 1845, either side by a massive gold ornament the period of George II. (1727 - 1760) enriched with precious stones. was selected, and 1200 guests were invited. Her Majesty the Queen as Philippa of The Queen looked extremely well in powder, Hainault, wife of Edward III., was attired in and her dress is described as of cloth of a demi-trained skirt of crimson velvet, edged gold and cloth of silver, with daisies and with miniver. Over this was worn a surcoat poppies worked in silk, and shaded in natural of blue and gold brocade, trimmed with fur colours. The trimmings and ruffles of to match, and embellished with a stomacher exquisite point lace—had belonged to Queen of jewels valued at ;^6o,ooo. The other portions of the costume were also studded with jewels. The mantle was of gold brocade, with a floral design in silver. .The hair was encased in a gold net, enriched with precious stones, and was surmounted by a crown. Princess Au- gusta of Cam- bridge personated Princess Claude, daughter of Anne of Bretagne, Queen of France. Her dress of silver tissue was bordered with ermine, and the tunic was of light blue velvet,

II » worked with the (•| » , , . , ^ fleur - de - lis in silver. The low bodice was bor dered with dia- m o n d s. The QUEEN VICTORIA AS PHILIPPA, WIFE OF EDWARD III. sleeves of silver tissue reached to the wrist, and were Charlotte—and the stomacher was trimmed trimmed with rows of pearls. The gloves with lace and jewels. The sacque was orna- were jewelled, and a white tulle veil mented with ribbons, caught with diamonds. with silver embroideries depended from a On the powdered coiffure was a diamond

turquoise and pearl diadem. By Her crown ; Her Majesty's white shoes had red Majesty's command, her own dress, that of rosettes with diamond centres, and she wore Prince Consort, and most of the costumes the star and ribbon of the Order of the worn at this ball, were manufactured by the Garter. Prince Albert had a costume of silk-weavers of Spitalfields. the same period, with the Star of the Garter, THE EVOLUTION OE EASHION. 83

and the Order of the Golden Fleece in posed of broche silk, with fichus of white briUiants. The Marchioness of Douro, the chiffon, and silk hats trimmed with feathers. Duke of Wellington's daughter-in-law, was Each carried a long crook tied with white the acknowledged belle of this ball, and wore ribbons and bunches of flowers, and the ;^6o,ooo worth of diamonds. Miss—now effect was charming. The Earl of Warwick the Baroness — Burdett Coutts was also wore a French Court costume, the coat of present, her dress trimmed with jewels once ruby velvet profusely trimmed with gold lace, the property of Marie Antoinette. white cloth cuffs, and revers. The long In 187 1 the Princess of Wales attended white kerseymere waistcoat was braided in the Waverley Ball at Willis' Rooms, with gold, and the white knee-breeches and low several other members of the Royal shoes were ornamented with diamond buckles. Family, and was much admired in the The Earl's wig, a la mousquetaire, was tied character of the ill-fated Mary Stuart. On with a bow of black ribbon, and he carried July 22nd, 1874, a fancy dress ball was given a tricorne hat with white ostrich plumes, and by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and white gauntlet gloves. Lady Warwick's two Princess of Wales at Marlborough House, sisters, the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady for which some beautiful costumes were Angela Forbes, represented Marie Letzinka, prepared. The Princess wore a handsome consort of Louis XV., and Lady Mary Venetian dress, and danced in the first quad- Campbell. The former wore a magnificent rille with the present Duke of Devonshire. gown of white satin de Lyon. The skirt The Prince in a Cavalier costume opened embroidered with a flight of swallows in the ball with the late Duchess of Sutherland. silver and crystals, a deep bertha of Point de The chief costume quadrilles on this occasion Flandre, with ruffles of the same on the were the Venetian, the Vandyck, Characters short sleeves. The train of crimson velvet in Fairy Tales, and a Pack of Cards. was embroidered with the French emblem, Another historic bal costume was given and Her Grace had a stomacher of splendid in February, 1895, at Warwick Castle, by the diamonds. Lady Angela Forbes' dress was Earl and Countess of Warwick. No more of white muslin, with a blue sash, and fitting background for such a function can picturesque hat of turquoise silk, trimmed with be imagined than this stately mansion, which feathers and roses. Princess Henry of Pless, has been a centre of hospitality for countless as la Duchesse de Polignac, had a dress of generations, but has never been presided rich white satin, the skirt embroidered i8in. over by no more gracious and popular deep, with turquoises and brilliants, a pow- chatelaine than the present Countess. Lady dered wig, and the same jewels in her hair. Warwick looked very beautiful as Marie Lady Eva Dugdale, sister to the Earl of Antoinette (the consort of Louis XVL of Warwick, and lady-in-waiting to Her Royal France) in a petticoat and corsage of exqui- Highness the Duchess of York, wore a Louis site English brocade, with a design of shaded Quinze white satin dress, covered with pink roses, enriched with gold thread on a pearl- roses, corsage en suite fastened with large coloured ground. The train of royal blue diamond ornaments. A silver trellis pattern velvet, embroidered in gold thread with the was worked round the hem of the skirt, and fleur-de-lis, was attached to the shoulders by a white silk mittens and shoes completed the band of diamonds; and the Warwick jewels, costume. Lady Rosslyn chose a white diamond stars, were arranged on the corsage embroidered muslin petticoat, the overdress veiled with gold flecked gauze, which was of pink and red striped silk, fichu and ruches also employed for the puffed sleeves. Her of black lisse, and a picturesque hat. Lady elaborate white coiffure was surmounted by Flo Sturt, as Madame la Marquise de Pom- a white muslin cap edged with blue velvet padour, was in rich cream satin, with bodice and adorned with diamond aigrettes and and sleeves of antique lace, and stomacher plumes of pink, white, and blue feathers. of diamonds. A black satin toque, with Lady Marjorie Greville (the only daughter of aigrette of diamonds, contrasted well with Lord and Lady Warwick) with Miss Hamilton the white wig. Count Deym, the Austrian acted as train - bearers. They wore the Ambassador, was in English Court dress. daintiest white costumes of the period, com- Prince Henry of Pless, in mousquetaire cos- G 2 84 THE F. VOLUTION OF FASHION. tume, represented the Vicomte de Bragelonne. given by members of the English aristocracy The Duke of Manchester was in white satin in honour of the sixtieth year of the reign of breeches, waistcoat to match, bordered with Queen Victoria, was a Costume Ball at gold, and coat of white and silver brocade Devonshire House, Piccadilly, on July 2nd, with moss roses and foliage. 1897, when the Duke and Duchess of The scene inside the Castle was one of Devonshire received nearly all the members unparalleled brilliancy, while those who of the Royal Family, many distinguished glanced from the mullioned windows saw by guests from the Colonies, and members of bright moonlight the Avon frozen, the ancient the Corps Diplomatique. This historic cedars glistening with frost, and the surround- mansion was built for the third Duke of ing country wrapped in a snowy mantle. The Devonshire, and it was here that Geogiana, entire ground floor of the Castle was thrown the beautiful Duchess of Devonshire, held open, and no pains were spared to give as her Court. It contains a fine suite of recep- complete a representation as possible of the tion rooms on the first floor; a gallery of gorgeous fetes which made the Court of pictures, in which the old masters are well

Marie Antoinette famous throughout Europe. represented ; and extensive grounds in the The finest spectacle presented itself when rear, which on this occasion were decorated the guests assembled at supper in the oak- with thousands of Chinese lanterns and fairy lined hall, where the light of a thousand lamps. The principal feature of the ball was candles was reflected in the bright steel a grand procession of the guests, headed by armour which surrounded the walls. Several the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, the high screens, hung with Beauvais tapestry former personating Charles V. of Germany, and shaded by huge palms, filled the angles and the latter attired with Oriental magnifi- of the hall, and the stone walls were partially cence as Zenobia, Queen of Palmyra, in a concealed by yellow and silver embroideries. robe of silver tissue wrought with jewels. In the huge fireplace logs crackled, and on The mantle was of cloth of gold similarly small round tables were placed silver can- treated, and the bodice was also studded delabra with crimson shades and floral deco- with precious stones. The head-dress con- rations, consisting of scarlet geraniums and sisted of white ostrich plumes and a golden maiden-hair fern. The centre table was and jewelled crown, from which depended reserved for Marie Antoinette and her Court, chains of pearls. H.R.H. the Princess of and here was the choicest display of family Wales, as Margaret of Valois, was surrounded plate, including, amongst other valuable by the ladies of her Court, their Royal specimens of the goldsmith's art, a golden Highnesses Princess Charles of Denmark, cup modelled by Benvenuto Cellini. From Princess Victoria of Wales, the Duchess of the hall you entered the Red Drawing-room, Fife, and the Duchess of York. The which contains a marble table, inlaid with Princess of Wales wore a gown of white flowers and fruit, and formerly the property satin wrought with silver, and a train of cloth of Marie Antoinette. Next is the Cedar of gold lined with silver and superbly Drawing-room, used as the ball-room, on jewelled. H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, as whose walls are many family portraits and Grand Master of the Knights Hospitallers of

other paintings by Vandyck ; the remainder St. John of Jerusalem and Chevalier of of the suite of State apartments were used as Malta, wore a rich Elizabethan costume with drawing-rooms between the dances; and carried out in black and silver, and bearing at the opposite end of the Casde is the Library, the white cross of the Order on one shoulder. the Billiard-room, and the Countess's lovely The Duke of York represented the Earl of Louis Seize Boudoir, in ivory tints, with Cumberland, one of Queen Elizabeth's festoons of delicately-shaded flowers. courtiers. Prince Charles of Denmark was a Dancing was carried on with great spirit Danish student. The Duke of Connaught till early morning, and the tardy winter sun wore the uniform of a military commander had risen ere the last carriage drove away during the reign of Elizabeth, and the from one of the most successful balls of the Duchess looked charming as Queen Anne of nineteenth century. Austria in a picturesque gown with puffed Among the many important entertainments sleeves. The Eastern Queens were magnifi- THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 85 cently arrayed and blazing with jewels. was beautifully dressed in a petticoat of rich Lady de Trafford was Semiramis, Empress white satin and a Court gown of English of Assyria, in a dress copied from a vase in brocade, with a train of Royal blue velvet. the British Museum. Princess Henry of The hair was powdered, and she was attended Pless was Queen of Sheba, in a robe and by four pages in white satin suits and three- train of shot purple and gold tissue, elabo- cornered hats, bearing over her ladyship a rately embroidered with turquoises and other canopy of blue velvet. This group included stones, and wore an Assyrian jewelled head- the Duchess of Sutherland, as Charlotte dress, decorated with a diamond bird and Corday,in a gown of red crepe de Chine, a aigrette. Another Queen of Sheba was Lady mushn fichu and cap, trimmed with point Cynthia Graham, and there were two Cleo- d'Alengon lace, and dagger at waist. Lady patras—Lady de Grey and Mrs. Arthur Westmorland made a lovely Hebe, and Lady Paget. The husband of the latter accom- Angela Forbes, as the Queen of Naples, wore panied her as Mark Antony. Lady Elcho an Empire gown of ivory duchesse satin, was a Byzantine Queen, Miss Muriel Wilson embroidered with silver and diamonds, and was Queen Vashti, and the Countess of a train of lilac velvet, edged with jewelled Dudley, as Queen Esther, wore a dress of embroidery and lined with satin. The head- white crepe, embroidered with gold and dress consisted of a small jewelled crown and studded with amethysts, turquoises, and two white feathers. Among many other pearls. notable costumes should be mentioned the The Elizabethan Court was represented by Marchioness of Tweedale's, as the Empress Lady Tweedmouth as Queen Elizabeth, in a Josephine, as she appears in the Coronation gown copied from a picture in the National picture at the Louvre, Paris ; the Marchioness Portrait Gallery. Her canopy was carried of Londonderry, as the Empress Marie by four yeomen in uniforms of crimson, Therese, of Austria, and the Marchioness of black, and gold, copied from Holbein's Zetland's, as Queen Henrietta Maria, wife of picture of " The Field of the Cloth of Gold," Charles L of England; Viscountess Rain- in the Hampton Court collection. Lord cliffe, as the Empress Catherine IL of Russia, Tweedmouth was the Earl of Leicester, in wore white satin, and her dress was an exact slashed doublet and hose of ruby velvet and copy of the picture in the British Museum by satin, enriched with gold embroidery. Lady Lambi. The Court gown of the Duchess of Edmondstone, as Mary Queen of Scots, wore Portland, as Duchesse de Savoia, who headed a dress of pale blue velvet, and tulle veil the Venetian procession, was composed of head-dress and ruff worked with pearls. She white satin veiled, with lisse wrought with was attended by the Duchess of Hamilton, silver, partially covered by a silver cloth dressed in the character of Mary Hamilton, mantle, embroidered with pearls and dia- the Queen's favourite maid of honour. The monds, and diamonds and emeralds were Countess of Warwick, as Marie Antoinette, introduced in the coiffure.

Chapter X. STAGE AND FLORAL COSTUME.

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 89

Chapter X STAGE AND FLORAL COSTUME.

" All the world's a stage, illustration of an English harlequin in the players, And all the men and women merely dress now familiar to us, is to be found in a They have their exits and their entrances, sketch of Bartholomew Fair, dated 1721. And one man in his time plays many parts." Of the characters of columbine, pantaloon, GARRICK was one of the first of our and clown, we have no contemporary English actors to realize how much drawings. Of the French ballet dancers of the success of a piece depended upon this period there are some carefully-executed appropriate costume, and, on his taking the plates in Planche's "Cyclopaedia of Costume.'^ management of Drury Lane Theatre in 1747, They are all represented in long, and some- at once turned his attention to this important times in trained skirts. The first example of branch of dramatic art. He refused to the abbreviated ballet skirt, reaching to the tolerate the absurdity of a heterogeneous knee, is given in the portrait of an actress mixture of the foreign and personating Le Zephyr, about ancient modes, which had the middle of the iSth century. hitherto debased tragedies by The peasant costume of various representing, for instance, Greek nations has also been adapted soldiers in full-bottomed wigs, to stage purposes with excellent and the King of an Oriental effect. Nation in trunk hose. The im- The late Hon. Lewis Wingfield provement, however, must have devoted much time to designing been very gradual, for Garrick is the stage dresses of the Victorian said to have played the part of era, and Madame Alias—who Macbeth ten years later in a has also passed away—provided gold-laced suit of sky blue and the costumes in Mr. Calvert's re-

scarlet ; while Mrs. Yates as vival of Henry VHL, and was also Lady Macbeth appeared in a responsible for dressing many of hooped court petticoat of enorm- the Alhambra ballets and the ous dimensions, with tight-fitting plays at London and provincial pointed bodice and elbow sleeves, theatres. Madame Bernhardt, and her powdered hair dressed Miss Ellen Terry, Mrs. Langtry, over a high cushion. Garrick's Sir Henry Irving, and the late suits for the characters of King Sir Augustus Harris have also Lear and Hamlet also followed brought their influence, money, the fashions of the i8th century, and taste to bear on correct stage though he played Richard HL costume, with the result that we in a fancy dress designed with have had many sumptuously- some regard to correctness of dressed revivals and new plays, detail. Even during the present A TURKISH MAIDEN which otherwise might have sunk century, an equally absurd an- into oblivion. Such spectacles achronism may be recorded. The late Mr. as are often to be seen at our leading Metro- Charles Mathews made his first appearance in politan theatres and music halls, if they fail public, at the Theatre Royal, Richmond, as to touch the public fancy, mean absolute and Richmond in Richard HL, wearing the irretrievable ruin to their promoters; and when helmet and jacket of a modern light horse it is remembered that many thousands are soldier. spent annually in staging theatrical enter- The first pantomime or harlequinade was prises, before a single seat is booked, it will played in England in 1 717, and the earliest at once be seen what enormous sums must 90 THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. be involved in furthering dramatic interests capable of controlling every gesture, and of The public, who have for the last sixty years charming us with their well-modulated voices. been catered for so generously, are some- Our lives are cheered by viewing the comic times apt to overlook the difficulties with side of things, and on our clothing and which the scenic artist has to contend. household possessions, the stage has also laid It would be impossible within the circum- a refining hand. scribed limit of a single volume to minutely describe even the most notable theatrical COSTUMES. costumes of the last half century, but a few FLORAL of the most effective floral costumes will be appended for the benefit of those who desire A POPPY. to introduce them into various entertain- The bodice and skirt of red accordion, ments. pleated mousseline de soie, the petals of the The steady patronage of Her Majesty the flower and belt in bright red silk. Large Queen and the Royal Family silk poppies appear on the have done much to remove any shoulders and bust, and one prejudices which existed against of extra size is used for a the drama, and as a powerful head-dress. With this cos- auxiliary to education the tume neat black shoes and silk stage is rapidly gaining ground. stockings should be worn, and Dull, indeed, must the theatre- a palm-leaf fan covered with goer be if he leaves without poppies and foliage should be having assimilated some valu- carried. able lesson. To Shakespeare we owe many ideal types of LILY OF THE VALLEY womanhood, all the more Corsage and skirt of white precious now that some of pleated Valenciennes lace the weaker sex, in an insati- mounted on green silk. A able desire for progress, some- full berthe of the flowers. times neglect those lesser arts White lace hat entirely which in the past proved to covered with these blooms, them a shield and buckler. and fan to correspond. The classical and historical pieces allow us to live again MOSS ROSE. in scenes which occurred when the world was young, and con- Gown of pink satin, veiled vince us, though the tastes with tulle and flecked with of the people were simpler, rose buds. A ruche of moss human nature, with its passions A POPPY. roses at the hem of the skirt and aspirations, has changed and on the bodice. A Dolly but little. Who can deny the moral influence Varden hat trimmed with moss roses and of such plays as " The Sign of the Cross," pink ribbon. " Hypatia," " The Daughters of Babylon," WILD ROSE. ''Virginius," or those of the Robertson school, of which " Caste " and " Ours " are Dress of shot pink and white satin, em- examples? A love of music is not considered broidered or painted with clusters and trails a marked trait of the English nation, yet of wild roses and foliage. Skirt edged with have not Italian and comic opera stimulated full ruche of pink tulle studded with roses, a desire for a concord of sweet sounds among and corsage trimmed to correspond. Coiffure all classes of the community ? Such plays as poudre dressed with small basket of roses and •Patience" and the "Mikado" have de- pink ribbon. veloped our instinct for colour and form, and ROSE. we are taught the value of industry and WHITE restraint when we watch well-trained actors. Gown with Watteau train of white satin THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION. 9' edged with leaveless roses, chains of the tulle strewn with tiny shamrocks, and a same flowers carried across the front of the coronet of the same in the hair. dress, and outhning the square-cut bodice, THE THISTLE. and elbow sleeves. Ruffles of lace. A wreath of white roses in the powdered hair, High dress of eau de nil satin. The ikirt and a crook decorated with flowers and edged with a wreath of thistles, which are ribbon streamers. also embroidered in a bold design on the front of gown and bodice. Satin hat trimmed SUMMER ROSES. with thistles and ribbon, and black staff tied

Gown of cream-coloured brocade, with with thistles and ribbon streamers, r, design in shaded roses and foliage, trimmed DANDELION. with garland of roses of different tints em- bedded in tulle. Decollete corsage trimmed Gown of yellow accordion, pleated chiffon to correspond, and a damask rose worn in finished on the skirt with trails of flowers from the hair. the waist to hem of the skirt, interspersed with the seed pods commonly known as blow- WILD FLOWERS. aways. The bodice of pleated yellow chiffon Dress of pale blue satin, veiled with green with dandelions across the berthe and clusters tulle. Trails of forget-me-nots, poppies, on the shoulders. A wreath and aigrette to marguerites, buttercups, and grass depending correspond. from the waist-belt to edge of skirt, and IRIS. bodice trimmed to correspond. A Leghorn hat garnished with wild flowers, grass, and Dress of white satin, veiled with mauve blue ribbons. chiffon, flecked with iris petals. Trails of mauve and white flowers tied with bows of GARDENL^. satin in alternate shades, and carried across Greek dress of white crepe de Chinei the skirt. Square cut corsage to correspond, embroidered in classical design with silver- and elbow sleeves. A muslin cap trimmed In front diagonal trails of gardenias and their with the same flowers. Powdered hair. dark foliage arranged from the right shoulder LILAC. to left side of dress. The hair bound with silver bands. A shower bouquet to corre- Gown of cream satin brocaded with mauve spond. and white lilac, Marie Antoinette, white chiffon fichu, and cap trimmed with clusters of THE SHAMROCK. shaded lilac and foliage. Elbow sleeves with Gown of emerald green satin appliqued chiffon ruffles. The white satin fan painted with velvet shamrocks of a darker shade. to correspond, and caught by a flower chate- The stomacher a large trefoil in emeralds, laine. The hair dressed with the same and the short sleeves cut to resemble the flowers, and a twisted scarf of mauve and Irish emblem. Corsage veiled with green white chiffon.

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