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INFORMATION TO USERS This reproduction was made from a copy of a document sent to us for microfilming. While the most advanced technology has been used to photograph and reproduce this document, the quality of the reproduction is heavily dependent upon the quality of the material submitted. The following explanation of techniques is provided to help clarify markings or notations which may appear on this reproduction. 1. The sign or “target” for pages apparently lacking from the document photographed is “Missing Page(s)”. If it was possible to obtain the missing page(s) or section, they are spliced into the film along with adjacent pages. This may have necessitated cutting througli an image and duplicating adjacent pages to assure complete continuity. 2. When an image on the film is obliterated with a round black mark, it is an indication of either blurred copy because of movement during exposure, duplicate copy, or copyrighted materials that should not have been filmed. For blurred pages, a good image of the page can be found in the adjacent frame. If copyrighted materials were deleted, a target note will appear listing the pages in the adjacent frame. 3. When a map, drawing or chart, etc., is part of the material being photographed, a definite method of “sectioning” the material has been followed. It is customary to begin filming at the upper left hand comer of a large sheet and to continue from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. If necessary, sectioning is continued again—beginning below the first row and continuing on until complete. 4. For illustrations that cannot be satisfactorily reproduced by xerographic means, photographic prints can be purchased at additional cost and inserted into your xerographic copy. These prints are available upon request from the Dissertations Customer Services Department. 5. Some pages in any document may have indistinct print. In all cases the best available copy has been filmed. Universi^ M icn^lm s Intemationcil 300 N. Zeeb Road Ann Arbor, Ml 48106 8519027 Shirazi-Mahajan, Faegheh COSTUMES AND TEXTILE DESIGNS OF THE IL-KHANID, TIMURID AND SAFAVID DYNASTIES IN IRAN FROM THE THIRTEENTH TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY The Ohio State University Ph.D. 1985 University Microfilms Intern étions!300 N. zeebRoad, Ann Arbor, Ml 48106 Copyright 1985 by Shirazi-Mahajan, Faegheh All Rights Reserved PLEASE NOTE: In all cases this material has been filmed in the best possible way from the available copy. Problems encountered with this document have been identified here with a check mark ■/ 1. Glossy photographs or pages. 2. Colored illustrations, paper or print ______ 3. Photographs with dark background 4. Illustrations are poor copy _______ 5. Pages with black marks, not original copy 6. Print shows through as there is text on both sides of page. 7. Indistinct, broken or small print on several pages ^ 8. Print exceeds margin requirements______ 9. Tightly bound copy with print lost in sp in_______ e 10. Computer printout pages with indistinct print 11. Page(s)_____________ lacking when material received, and not available from school or author. 12. P age(s) _____________ seem to be missing in numbering only as text follows. 13. Two pages numbered . Text follows. 14. Curling and wrinkled pages_ 15. Dissertation contains pages with print at a slant, filmed as received______ 16. Other_______________________________________________________________ ______ University Microfilms International V COSTUMES AND TEXTILE DESIGNS OF THE IL-KHANID, TIMURID AND SAFAVID DYNASTIES IN IRAN FROM THE THIRTEENTH TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Faegheh Shirazi-Mahajan, B.A., M.S. ****** The Ohio State University 1985 Reading Committee: Approved By Lois E. Dickey, Ph.D. Howard Crane, Ph.D. Stephen Dale, Ph.D. Esther Meacham, Ph.D. ^ Q ' Û Adviser Department of Textiles & ClothingClothii © 1985 FAEGHEH SHIRAZI-MAHAJAN All Rights Reserved This dissertation is dedicated to my supportive husband, Vijay, my children, Ramin and Geeti and my parents who always encouraged me. 11 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The author of this dissertation wishes to acknowledge the encouragement, contributions and asistance of her major advisor. Professor Lois E. Dickey and her minor advisor. Professor Howard Crane, Department of Art History. The author is also grateful to Professor Esther Meacham, Department of Textiles and Clothing, as well as Professor Stephen Dale, Department of History for their helpful suggestions and ideas of the final draft of this dissertation. Ill TABLE OF CONTENTS Page DEDICATION....................................... ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT................................... iii VITA ................................................. vi LIST OF TA B L E S ..................................... vii-viii LIST OF PLATES .................................... ix-x CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION ................................ 1 2. METHODOLOGY............................. 9 Preliminary Study..................... 9 Developing Method to Record D a t a .... 10 Assessment of Data for Reliability/Validity 12 Collection of D a t a ................... 13 Limitations........................... 15 A n alysis ............................. 16 3. IL-KHANID PERIOD: MONGOL INVASION AND RULE (THIRTEENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES) 18 Historical Background ................... 19 The Literature and Visual A r t s ...... 26 Analysis of Costumes and Textiles .... Depicted in the Miniature Paintings . 37 Summary of the Il-Khanid Costumes and Textile D e s i g n s ............... 58 4. TIMURID PERIOD: TARTAR INVASION AND ROLE (FIFTEENTH AND EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURIES) 62 Historical Background ................. 62 The Literature and Visual Arts .... 6 8 Analysis of Costumes and Textiles Depicted in the Miniature Paintings . 87 Summary of the Il-Khanid Costumes and Textile M o t i f s ................... 126 iv TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued) 5. SAFAVID PERIOD AND RULE (SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES).......... 131 Historical Background ............... 132 The Literature and Visual Arts .... 143 Analysis of Costumes and Textiles Depicted in the Miniature Paintings 180 Summary of the Safavid Costumes and Textile D e s i g n s ................ 225 6. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS................. 232 REFERENCES....................................... 245 APPENDIX .......................................... 249 Glossary of Costume Terms.............. 260-274 VITA 1975 ................. B.A., University of Houston, Houston, Texas. 1976 ................. M.S., Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kansas. 1977-1978 ............ Instructor, Department of Consumer Studies and Textiles. State University College at Buffalo. Buffalo, New York. FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field: Textiles and Clothing Minor Field: History of Islamic Art VI LIST OF TABLES Table Page 1. The Il-Khanid Dynasty: Costumes for Women 43 2. The Il-Khanid Dynasty: Costumes for Men. 44-45 3. The Il-Khanid Dynasty : Textile Motifs. 54 4. The Timurid Dynasty Costumes for Women 94 5. The Timurid Dynasty Costumes for Men. 105-108 6. The Timurid Dynasty Textile Motifs . 125 7. The Safavid Dynasty Costumes for Women 187-190 8. The Safavid Dynasty Costumes for Men . 197-207 9. The Safavid Dynasty Textile Motifs . 222-223 10. The Glossary of Terms for Il-Khanid Dynasty: Costumes for Women............... 260 11. The Glossary of Terms for Il-Khanid Dynasty: Costumes for Men.............. 261 12. The Glossary of Terms for Il-Khanid Dynasty: Accessories .................. 262 13. The Glossary of Terms for Il-Khanid Dynasty: Textile Motifs................ 263 14. The Glossary of Terms for Timurid Dynasty: Costumes for Women............ 264 14. The Glossary of Terms for Timurid Dynasdy: Costumes for Women (Continued) 265 15. The Glossary of Terms for Timurid Dynasty: Costumes for M e n ................ 266 vii LIST OF TABLES (Continued) Table Page 15. The Glossary of Terms for Timurid Dynasty: Costumes for M e n .......... 267 16. The Glossary of Terms for Timurid Dynasty: Textile Motifs................ 268 17. The Glossary of Terms for Safavid Dynasty: Costumes for Women............ 269 17. The Glossary of Terms for Safavid .... 270 Dynasty: Costumes for Women (Continued) 18. The Glossary of Terms for Safavid Dynasty: Costumes for Men.............. 271 18. The Glossary of Terms for Safavid Dynasty: Costumes for Men (Continued). 272 18. The Glossary of Terms for Safavid Dynasty: Costumes for Men (Continued). 273 19. The Glossary of Terms for Safavid Dynasty: Textile Motifs................ 274 V l l l PLATES PLATE Page I. The Birth of the Prophet Muhammed. 47 Rashid al-Din. Plate 29, (1306) II. Sultan Muhammed ibn Malik-Shah 50 (Ruled 1105-18) Rashid al-Din. Plate 67, (1306) III. The Quraysh in Consultation as to the 52 Proscription of Their Kinsmen. Rashid al-Din. Plate 35 (1306) IV. Mahmud ibn Sebuktegin Receives a Robe 57 of Honour From the Caliph al-Qadir Bi-llal in 1000. Rashid al-Din. Plate 50 (1306) V. Malikshah about to Change Horses Accosted 97 by an Old Woman Who Reproached Him for Allowing His Soldiers to Chase Her Cow. Diwan of Khawaju Kirmani, folio 85a, (1396). VI. The Houris. Mirajname, Plate 41, 97 folio 49, (1436). VII. Moses. Mirajname, Plate 23, folio 26, 110 (1436). ---- ----- VIII. Courtly Scene. Shahname, folio 45.169, 112 (1444). IX. Courtly Scene. Shahname, folio 56.10, 113 (1444). X. The Building of the Palace of Khavarank 121 for Naman who was the Guardian
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