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W H i THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN F R A N C E ; OR, THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME. FROM THE FRENCH OF M AUGUSTIN CH.\L LAM El M r s . CASHEL HOEY a n d M r . JOHN LILLIE. Jidu $?orh : SCRIJIMEK VNU W KLIOKIi 1 8 8 2 . Q 1 I C l \ n Z rx*.0 l5B0 N : PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN’S SQUARE. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. PACK Various definitions of fashion— The grave side of its history— Quotations from the poets— Character of Frenchwomen— The refinement of their tastes and fancies— Paris the temple of fashion—The provinces—-Mdlle. Mars’ yellow gown—The causes of fashion— A saying of Mme. de Girardin’s— A remark of Mrs. Trollope’s— The dress of actresses— Earliest theories of fashion— The Gynseceum of Amman— First appearance of the “ Journal des Dames et des Modes” — Lamesangere— Other publications— An anecdote concerning dolls—Plan of the History of Fashion in F r a n c e ........................................................................................................................... I C H A P T E R I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes— “ Mavors ” and “ Palla ” — Cleanliness of the Gallic women - The froth of beer or “ kourou”— The women of Marseilles ; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment— The ‘ ‘ stola ”— Refinement of elegance— Extravagant luxury of women— Artificial aids— A “ vestiaire” or wardrobe-room of the period— Shoes— Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crystal ball—Influence of the barbarians . 13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks— Customs of the latter— The Merovingians— Costumes of skins and felt ; cloaks and camlets— The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the “ guimpe,” the cape— Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers— Various articles of dress—The “ suint” — Young girls dress their hair without ornaments— St. Raddgonde— The hair of married women . 21 CHAPTER III. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD. Reign of Charlemagne— The women of the tenth century wear two tunics—Judith’s belt— A veil is obligatory— Miniatures in the Mazarin Library— Charles the Bald’s Bible— Shoes— Dress of Queen Lutgarde— Dress of Rotrude and Bertha— Gisla and other kinswomen of the Emperor— The successors of Charlemagne— Cannes— Adelaide of Vermandois— The dress of w id o w s .................................................... 25 a VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. THE CARLOVINGÏAN PERIOD. PAGE Earliest times of the Carlovingian period—Variety of costume in the provinces— Fashions in the Duchy of Fiance—French taste dating from the eleventh century — Luxury increases with each generation— The dominical— The “ bliaud ” — Canes of apple-wood—Women in the twelfth century— Head-dresses— “ Afiche”— Serpent-tails— Pelisses— The thirteenth century— “ Grèves ” and veils are in fashion— Tire “ couvre-chef ” in the fourteenth century— The skirt, or “ cotte- hardie,” surcoat, or overall, or overskirt, cape, trained skirt, and “ gauzape ”— Accessories— Emblazoned gowns— Various kinds of stuffs .... 31 C H A P T E R V. THE INFLUENCE OF THE CRUSADES. Severity of feminine costume— Long gowns and g u im p es— Marguerite of Provence— “ Fermaux”— Reappearance of splendour in dress— Eastern customs— The priests of fashion— Haberdashery and peacock-feathers— Female embroiderers— Taste for embroidery— Continual temptations— Earliest sumptuary laws— Furs— St. Louis’s opinion on dress —Prohibitions by Philippe le B el; speech made by his wife— Crepine . ...... ...... 39 CHAPTER VI. REIGNS OF JOHN AND OF CHARLES V. The States of Languedoc— A young French lady in the fourteenth and filteenth centuries— Low’ dresses— Saying of a mercer— Damoisel/es— Garnaches and g a r d e - corps— Le Parement des dames— Social distinctions— High character is worth more than gilded belt— Precious stones— The castles and other dwellings of the Middle Ages— Splendid furniture— Humble abodes of the poor— Evening assemblies . 45 CHAPTER VII. REIGNS OF CHARLES VI. AND CHARLES VII. Taste in dress becomes purer— Heart-shaped head-coverings, the “ cornette,” and the “ hennin ” in the reign of Charles V I.— Husbands complain— Preachers denounce — Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention—Brother Richard tries to reform it—The “ hennin” gains the victory— Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon— “ Escoffion”— An absurd figure - Gravouère — Isabeau de Bavière—• Gorgiasetés— Tripes— Splendour of the court— Agnes Sorel— “ Coiffe adournée diamonds ; the carcan—Walking-sticks . .5 1 CHAPTER VIII. REIGNS OF LOUIS XL, CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI.— “ La grancl’gorre,” or sumptuosity— The “ troussoire”—-Allegorical and moral costumes— Trains— Head-dresses— “ Collets rebrassés”— Wigs and false hair— Some results of the w'ar in Italy— Italian fashions— “ Sollerets ” and slippers— Gorgets— Garters— JeanMarot writes against novelties— Anne of Brittany— Pins— Menot “ the golden-tongued ”— A Parisian in the time of Louis XII — Coat à l’Italienne— Manufacture of stuffs . 61 CONTENTS. vii CHAPTER IX. REIGN OF FRANCIS I. PAGE The court of Francis I.— A speech of Charles V — The king’s liberality— Order of the Cordeliire— Word-paintings of the fashions of the clay, by Rabelais— Costumes of the seasons— Feather-fans— Sunshades— Tire “ hoche-plis” or verlugadin- Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin’s life— Satires and songs— Mdlle. de Lacepede— “ Contenances”— Silk shoes with slashes— Head-dress called a “ passe-filon ’ — Increase of love of dress— The bean-flower— Artistic head-dresses— Twists of hair called ralraprenades— Ferronicres— Coaches in Paris; their influence on the fashions - . 71 C H A P T E R X. REIGN OF HENRI II. Fashions under Henri II.—The ruff— A satirical print of the time— Catherine de Medicis eats soup— The Italian taste— Regulations for dress— Crimson— Who shall wear silk?— Lines on velvet, by Ronsard— Rotonde— “ Collet monte”— Spring-water— Style of gowns and head-dresses— Wired sleeves— Girdles — Caps, bonnets, and hoods— The “ touret de nez”— T he“ coffin a roupies”— Shoes— A quotation from Rabelais . .... S i CHAPTER XI. REIGN OF FRANCIS II. The earliest queens of fashion— Mary Stuart’s costumes ; her jewels— Description of bodices and sleeves of that period— Crosses— The “ loup” or small mask—• Coiffure “ en raquette”— An anecdote concerning high heels— Regulations re­ specting fashion— Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in dress— Exordium of the Edict of July 12, 1549— Maximum of marriage portions— The first knitted silk sto ck in gs .................................................................................. 89 CHAPTER XII.. REIGN OF CHARLES IX. The wars of religion— The fashions of Italy are brought across the Alps, and are welcomed in France— Effects of the expeditions into Italy— Articles from Venice and Genoa are very fashionable— A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower of scents— Effeminate style of dress— Charles IX. and his Edicts against extravagant display — Fashion rebels against sumptuary laws— Women of high rank, bourgeoises, widows, and spinsters— Wedding dresses— Observations of a Venetian ambassador — “ Corps pique”— Drawers— Paint— Cosmetics—Breast mirrors, girdle mirrors— Court dresses— “ Arcelets ” .............................................................................................................. 95 CHAPTER XIII. REIGN OF HENRI III, Opposition to the law's of King ITenri III. on dress— The wife of President N . — How both sexes evaded the edicts— Gowns from Milan— Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions— Rage for perfumes— Recognition of rank is demanded— Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish ambassadors, and her costume at Blois— Brantome’s opinion— Pointed bodices, puffed-out sleeves, and “ bourrelets’’— Remarks on hair—Ridiculous dress of men— Poucet, the preacher— Satirical lines on Joyeuse— Witty remark of Pierre de l’Estoile— Starch used by Ilenri III.— C u sh ion s .........................................................103 1 a 2 23- viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. REIGNS OF HENRI IV. AND LOUIS XIII. PAGE Universal mourning on the death of the Guises ; intolerance of showy dress— Vertugadins, “ espoitrement,” “ corps espagnolé”— Diversity of colours—The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d’Estrées and to the queen— Dress of Marguerite de France— Low-cut bodices— Head-dresses of hair— Various styles— Venetian slippers— Edicts of Louis X II.— Caricatures : “ Pompe funèbre de la Mode ”— Words and fashions— Ribbons or “ galants -Dress of widows— “ Demi-ceint” girdles— Gloves of all sorts— Patches— Masks ; their use— “ Cache- laid”—The Frondeuses—Mme. de Longueville . 1 13 CHAPTER XV. REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. Louis XIV. commands— Court luxury and pleasure; disguises— The Temple jewellery — Fashion and etiquette— Successive fashions— Royal edicts— The “ Tombeau du sens commun”— Dress of La Vallière— Of Mme. de Montespan— Costume of a lady of rank in 1668— The “ échelles de Mme. de la Reynie”— “ Transparencies” — Manufactures— Champagne, the hair-dresser— Female hair-dressers— “ Hurlu­ berlus” and Mme. de Sévigné—Moustaches for women; patches— Palatines— Slippers ; high heels— Corsets ; fans ; sweet lemons— Dog-muffs—Hair dressed “ à la Fontanges”— English style of dressing hair— “ Esther”— Steinkerks— “ Crcmonas ” — “ Amadis” and Jansenist sleeves —Hair dressed “ à l'effrontée ”— Dresses of the Duchesse de Bourgogne— M ignardises........................................................
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  • Trainers Steve Asmussen Thomas Albertrani

    Trainers Steve Asmussen Thomas Albertrani

    TRAINERS TRAINERS THOMAS ALBERTRANI Bernardini: Jockey Club Gold Cup (2006); Scott and Eric Mark Travers (2006); Jim Dandy (2006); Preakness (2006); Withers (2006) 2015 RECORD Brilliant Speed: Saranac (2011); Blue Grass 1,499 252 252 217 $10,768,759 (2011) Buffum: Bold Ruler (2012) NATIONAL/ECLIPSE CHAMPIONS Criticism: Long Island (2008-09); Sheepshead Curlin: Horse of the Year (2007-08), Top Older Bay (2009) Male (2008), Top 3-Year-Old Male (2007) Empire Dreams: Empire Classic (2015); Kodiak Kowboy: Top Male Sprinter (2009) Birthdate - March 21, 1958 Commentator (2015); NYSS Great White Way My Miss Aurelia: Top 2-Year-Old Filly (2011) Birthplace - Brooklyn, NY (2013) Rachel Alexandra: Horse of the Year (2009), Residence - Garden City, NY Flashing: Nassau County (2009) Top 3-Year-Old Filly (2009) Family - Wife Fonda, daughters Teal and Noelle Gozzip Girl: American Oaks (2009); Sands Untapable: Top 3-Year-Old Filly (2014) Point (2009) 2015 RECORD Love Cove: Ticonderoga (2008) NEW YORK TRAINING TITLES 338 36 41 52 $3,253,692 Miss Frost: Riskaverse (2014) * 2010 Aqueduct spring, 12 victories Oratory: Peter Pan (2005) NATIONAL/ECLIPSE CHAMPION Raw Silk: Sands Point (2008) CAREER HIGHLIGHTS Bernardini: Top 3-Year-Old Male (2006) Ready for Rye: Quick Call (2015); Allied Forces * Campaigned 3-Year-Old Filly Champion (2015) Untapable in 2014, which included four Grade CAREER HIGHLIGHTS Romansh: Excelsior H. (2014); Discovery H. 1 wins: the Kentucky Oaks, the Mother Goose, * Trained Bernardini, who won the Preakness, (2013); Curlin (2013) the