ARIS UN I ERS A L EXPOSITION 1 86 P V , 7 .

REPORTS OF THE UN ITED STATES OMMISSIONERS C .

R E P O R T

CL OTHIN FABRIC G S ,

BEING

C LASSES TWENTY-SEVEN TOTHIRTY-NINE

G ROUP F OUR.

“ P A RA N S T E E V N S ,

UNITED STATES C OMMISSIONER .

W A S H I N G T O N G E E T P I T I G F F I E O V R N M N R N N O C .

1 8 7 0 .

I N T RODUC T I ON .

The United States Commissioners to the Paris Exposition of 1 8 6 7

appointed a committee consisting of Professor J . Lawrence Smith , Doc

W . . tor E Johnston, and myself, to report on the Products of Chemistry ,

on the Preparation of Food , and upon Clothing . n It was not fou d convenient to pursue this labor jointly, and the report l o n on chemica s was undertaken by Commissioner Smith , the report food un by Commissioner Johnston , and that upon clothing was left to the der

signed . Without any special qualifications for this work derived from my a h bitual pursuits , or any opportunity for preparation , I occupied mys elf n with the collection of materials and memoranda for the report . Amo g the more important of these materials I mention the valuable reports in

French upon some of the classes by members of the International Jury ,

m . from which translations have been freely ade With these reports ,

and with the excell ent assistance I was able to procure , I have completed n o w resul the task which fell to me , and submit the t to the Department h n an d with the ope that it may be fou d of some practical interest value . R N N PA A STEVE S ,

United S tates C ommissioner.

E C ON T N T S .

CHAPTER I .

F E CHANGES I N TH E FASHION O WEARING APPAR L COSTUMES . — he va et o f o e ts n u ed u n e the ea o f o t in sto o f the an es i n T ri y bj c , i cl d d r h d cl h g Hi ry ch g — — cl o thin g L aws e n a cte d to prev en t extrav agan c e i n dress Pro gress o f fashio n I n — — — va rio u s c o u n tri es C a uses o f ch an ges i n fashi on s The m o tive o f gain R apid sprea d — o f n ew m o des d u e t o in crea sed fa ciliti es o f c o mm u n ic a tio n E sth etic in flu en c es o f — — dress Pa ri s the great c en ter o f m o dern fa shio n s Sci en c e a n d in du stry stim u l a ted — — by chan ges in fa shi o n Exhibiti o n o f spe cim en s o f c o stu m es o f va rio u s ra c es H i s — t o ric al a n d fa n cy co stu m es I n flu en c e o f c o stu m e s u po n the h a bits o f th e peo ple — — n 7 25 . Th e c o stu mes o f vari o u s co u tries pp .

CHAPTER II .

MATERIALS F OR CLOTHING .

o tto n fa s f o a n e G eat ta n an d o t e o u n t es— o tto n an u fa tu e C bric r m Fr c , r Bri i , h r c ri C m c r i n the n te tates— n en a n d i n en fa s en o o u s o n s u t o n o f i n F a n e U i d S Li l bric ; rm c mp i , r c — Va rio u s s tyl es o f lin en go o ds sh o wn i n th e Fren ch se ctio n Rel a tive imp o rta n c e o f — — the lin e n m an u fa ctu re in vari o u s co u n tri es Fla x a n d lin en i n Ita ly Ma n ufa ct u re o f — — wo o l an d wo rste d The British a rtiz an s o n wo rste d a n d mixe d t extile fa brics Silk — — — a s a m ateria l fo r clo thin g The silk t ra de o f Fran c e Sericu ltu re i n Fran c e Gen era l o h s k n u — — — se vat o n s u o n t e n 27 44 . b r i p il i d stry o f vario u s co u tri es Ribb o n s . pp .

R CHAPTE III .

Y OF Y-M THE INDUSTR READ ADE CLOTHING .

— The artistic exc ellen c e o f w ea rin g app arel pro d u c ed in Pa ri s Sta tistic s o f th e m a n u — — factu re i n Fra n ce The t a ilo ri n g tra de i n Fran c e Rea dy-m a de clo t hin g fo r wo m en ’ — — The seam stresse s art in Pari s The m an u fa ctu re o f b ats fo r m en an d w o m en C o rk — ats en te s o f the h a t t a e i n F an e an d s i — h C r r d r c , tatist cs o f th e m an u fa ctu re B o o ts — — a n d sh o es M a n u fa ctu re o f cl o thin g i n the Un ite d Sta tes He a d- dresses fo r l a dies fi — — t a fl w o ers . 4 Ar i ci l pp 5 59 .

R C HAPTE IV .

FAN E TC . LACES, S, GLOVES,

Th f — e m a n u actu re of rare a n d c o stly l a c e by h a n d No tices o f speciall y i n teresti n g — e t o n s o f a e M a n e- a e a es— a es o n t o n s an d s o n s o f xhibi i l c chi m d l c W g , c di i , divi i — - — — lab o r Edu c a ti o n o f la c e m ak e rs Th e Briti sh a rti san s u p on l a c e M an u factu re o f i — — — l a ce n v a rio u s c o u n trie s Embro id e ry Ma n ufa ctu re o f fan s M an ufa ctu re o f glo ve s

i n F an e n an a n d o t e o u n t es— a st tiss u es su s en de s e ts a te s r c , E gl d , h r c ri El ic , p r , b l , g r r , — — an d a e ets . 6 br c l pp 1 78 . 6 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

CHAPTER V

F INFLUENCE O CLOTHING UPON HEALTH . — — The i n fluen ce o f wo o len clo thin g Effe ct s o f wo o len s u p o n th e skin Sh a ggy wo o len — go o ds Pro t e ctio n affo rded by wo o len s fro mthe effe cts o f su dden ch an ges o f t emper — —h l n s s o u be wo n at ni t effe ts o f o n e o u s t o air at u re Wo o e h ld r gh Evil c cl thi g imp rvi . — 7 9 84 . pp .

STATISTICAL TABLES . OTH I C L N G .

TE I C H A P R .

CHAN G E S IN TH E FASHIO N O F C LOTHIN G COS ME TU S .

— TH E VARIETY OF OBJ EC TS INC LUDED UNDER TH E HEAD OF C LOTHING HISTORY OF TH E — — C HA NGES IN C LOTHING LAWS ENAC TED TO PREVENT E XTRA VA G A N C E IN DRESS PRO — — GRESS OF FASHIONS IN VARIOUS C OUNTRIES CAUSES OF C HANGES I N FASHIONS TH E — MOTIVE OF GA I N RAPID SPREAD OF N E W MODES DUE TO IN C REASED FAC ILITIES OF — — C OMMUNIC ATION ESTHETIC I NFLUENC ES OF DRESS PARIS TH E GREAT C ENTER OF — MODERN FASHIONS S C I E N C E A N D H QDUS TRY STIMULATED B Y C HANGES IN FASHION fi EXHIB ITI ON OF SPEC IMENS OF C OSTUMES OF VARIOUS RA C E S H I S TORI C A L A N D FA NC Y — — C OSTUMES INFLUENC E OF C OSTUMES UPON TH E HABITS OF TH E PEOPLE TH E C OS T M E U S OF VA RIOUS C OUN TRI ES . “ the In classification adopted by the Imperial Commission , Clothing , i n ” i cluding fabrics and other obj ects worn on the person , were ass gned t o 27 39 Group IV, Classes to . It was obviously impossible to enter upon an exhaustive discussion of the wide range of subj ects which were here grouped together . It in was one of the most comprehensive groups the whole Exposition ,

- u including not only made p clothing for both sexes , but cotton , linen , woolen and silken fabrics ; hats , bonnets , gloves , umbrellas , articles

i . used in travel n g, laces , and ornaments of all kinds Special reports u n upon cotton , wool and silk, as raw materials , and partly po the manu i t factures of each , hav ng been made by others , the present repor is n confined more exclusively to clothi g, and those objects which are f accessory either for comfort or ornament , an d the e fort has been made to present some statistical data of general interest and application . The number of exhibitors in these classes was considerably over one

. r thousand France had two hund ed and nineteen , Great Britain forty U n two , and the nited States ine .

HISTORY OF CLOTHING .

The history of clothing, it may be said , is coeval and intimately asso c iated with the social and political history of man ; and when the task n of setting forth intelligibly the subject of clothing, as o e of the great prime necessities of the human family, and in its economic relations to U other industries represented at the niversal Exposition , is entered

upon , it will be proper that some historical outlin e of the changes which N 8 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITIO .

have occurred in the attire of both sexes should at the same time be

. E x si placed before the reader In fact, as it was intended that the po e tion should be univ rsal, not only showing the present stage of advance ment in all u seful productions of human industry or skill and the modes

bu t of production throughout the world , all of the various preceding u stages of progress , the articles , the manner of sing, and the processes

of fabrication , to omit such a retrospect as that referred to would be ignorin g the spirit in which this comprehensive epitome of the pro

d uctive t he energies , inventive resources , and progress of world was

conceived . In the early age s of the world dress was simple as the manners of the

people who inhabited it, being at first composed of leaves , feathers , and i a . the skins of anim ls Gradually the inventions of tanning, sp nning, i tem ta weav ng and dyeing were adopted , and mankind yielded to the p

tions of vanity . They abandoned the simple modes of their forefathers and gave themselves u p to the most luxurious and costly adornment

of their persons . To such a height did this devotion to dress and finery attain, that decrees and ordinances have from time to time been adopted by many

n ations to lessen the growing evil . So great has been the passion for l e dress in some periods , that revo utions have r sulted from the attempted

' enforcement of sumptuary laws and edicts intended for the prevention

of extravagance . When the Tartar conquerors of China ordered that the luxuriant n ati ve i nh a bita n ts o ff d tresses of the Should be cut , the victims regar ed it as such an indignity that in many instances the native Chinese pre

ferred lo sing their heads to submitting to the decree . l In Spain , also , vio ent disturbances were caused in the last century

m th e , a by an atte pt to prohibit use of the c pa and sombrero . ff the In Englan d many e orts have , at times , been made by governing e d so as powers to ch ck not only extravagance in ress , far richness and a bu t l Splendor of m terials were concerned , a so to change the cut and

style of various parts of the apparel of both sexes . Several of the

earlier monarchs attempted to restrict the length of pointed shoes , and h thoug fashion yielded to the sustained attacks , she revenged herself by the introduction of shoes of such extravagant width that another n restraint was soo imposed by the royal authority . f Queen Elizabeth made many laws af ecting the attire of her subjects , t hough she was proverbial for her fondness of dress and the singularity h of the fashions s e preferred . She compelled the peasantry to wear a e cap of a c rtain shape , and , probably to encourage home industry , as well as to restrain the mania for foreign fashions which had long been

e - prevalent among her subj cts , she ordered that this head dress should f be of domestic wool and manufacture . She also limited the size of ruf s and swords to be worn by her courtiers to the proportions she regarded vio becoming in subjects to adopt , and appointed officers to watch for A CLOTHING N D WO VE N FABRICS . 9

l a i n t o s of the law , and to break all swords and clip all ruffles exceedin g

the prescribed limit . She also entered with much detail into the regula the Of tion of the costume worn at inns court, specifying forms , colors ,

and the quantity of embroidery to be used .

k n u se The Tur s have also in times past set their faces agai st the , on f n Of O . the part Grecia ladies , long skirts peculiar to their traditional m fi a n d u classic ode, and Of cers have been appointed to cut off any s perflu o u s length . The Turks have established many other regulations d m concerning distinctive ress , such as a onopoly to themselves of yellow n slippers , rich silk or musli turbans , and shawls of the gayest designs and textures , while they required their Grecian vassals to wear dark

n a - cotto c ps , the Armenians to adopt grotesque pumpkin shaped capas ,

i b flo wer- wh le rimless caps , shaped like inverted pots , were prescribed for the Jews .

n Of late years , however, the Turks themselves have yielded relucta t n obedie ce to a decree of Sultan Mahmoud , ordering that a red cloth fez or military cap should be worn by Mussulmans in place of the calpac or turban . This ordinance was violently opposed and protested against, and those who favored it had their houses fired and though the will of the

Sultan prevailed , the Turks have never recovered from their disgust at n the supplantin g of the cherished turban so long wor by their ancestry . C harles the Second , of England , prescribed a particular costume for n i the obility to wear, dispensing with extravagant d splay of gold , sil an d u ver, lace, j ewels , which had distin g ished the preceding period of his reign . a b Gust vus , one of the kings of Sweden , prescri ed a court dress for each sex , to be worn when they were admitted to his presence . N u o apoleon the First , against m ch Oppositi n and criticism , exercised his imperial authority in the same d irectio n ; and in times of great d t political agitation , his proceedings on the subject were ismi ssed wi h much vehemence and interest in the national convention of France . fi e Of It is dif cult to realize that France , the disp nser modes and of m the ost elaborate and beautiful materials and articles of dress , was in her infancy as primitive and rude as any of the other coun tries of Eu i n m rope atters of costume and toilet . Skins fashioned into a form m o which ight be described as a tunic , with the additi n in winter of a w n cloak hich , faste ed over one shoulder, descended nearly to the u gro nd , and a skin cap of very simple form , constituted the dress of the men . The women wore almost the same attire , only the tunic was a in longer, and the cap triangular in sh pe . But even that primitive period , tradition says , they exhibited a marked predilection for such

t . personal decora ions as necklaces , bracelets , rings , and chains Ancient a i n i statu ry has been exhumed in that country , which the f gures were e the the dr ssed in tunics with long sleeves reaching to hand , over dress i i l R sa a m . On being similar to the oman g , with the add t on of s eeves

the , fi m . heads of the gures were caps rese blin g the Phrygian bonnet N 1 0 PARIS U IVERSAL EXPOSITION .

n Some variety is exhibited in the minor details of their dress . For a lo g period the higher classes wore long robes trimmed with ermine or o ther k Of n valuable furs . The early ings Fra ce, beginning with Clovis, wore a tunic and a mantle resembling the Grecian chla my. Changes are first to be noticed i n the garments which are represented Th r . e in two statues of Charlemagne fi st gives a moustache , but is Of m without any indication a beard , a tunic ter inating above the knees , a nd a chla my with a wide border ; fillets bound crosswise cover the Of legs . The costume of the other figure consists a garment similar to a modern surtout . It has large broad sleeves with deep cuffs turned l back , and a square col ar . It is q uite remarkable that this dress is o r n amen ted an with large round buttons , article generally supposed to have been unknown at so early a period .

m o f . In the manuscript illu inations the reign of St Louis , the princes h are portrayed in variously shaped habits . T is leads to the belief that fashion was then taking her place as an institution which was to exert a powerful and lasting influence upon mankind . ~ n cl o se Prince Joh wears hanging sleeves over the ones of his tunic, and he holds in his hand a glove . Another of the princes has upon his m head a cap , and wears a gar ent like a surtout, which shows the vest e f underneath . Anoth r sports a hat like some O modern form . wa s Of About the middle of the fourteenth century a period , great

t r extravagance in regard to everything per aining to the toilette . G a m e nts were made brilliant with gold and silver, and such was the demand for precious stones , that they became very scarce , and the price

Of . b e cdté ha rdi them advanced materially Em roid ry usually adorned the , the e - e und r sleeves fitted very closely, whil the upper ones were long and e e n o w u th narrow . Feath rs wer first orn on e caps of gentlemen . The ’ ladies bonnet-s assumed an almost endless variety of forms about this f r the time , and p first time since the introduction of variable fashions , he t t female head relied upon the hair, wi hout cap , bonnet, or hood . A t e large curl or plai on eith r side of the face, and a small spray of flowers l The f or jewe s , constituted its only ornament . trains O the gowns be a n d e came very long, th y were held up by pages . I n England , during the reign of Edward the Third , many new devices were introduced , most of which were from foreign lands . The Monk of “ m Glastonbury writes , that the English en haunted so much unto the Of n folly strangers , that every year they cha ged them in diverse shapes u and disg isings of clothing, now long, now large , now wide , now strait , and every day cl o thin gges n ew and destitute and divest from all honesty of old arraye or good usage ; and another time to short clothes ,

- and so strait waisted with full sleeves , and tapetes of surcoats and

- all hodes over long and large , all so nagged and nib on every side, and s o e shatter d, and all so buttoned , that I with truth shall say , they seem more like to tormentors or devils i n their clothing and also in their h in ” s o a . g g !shoeing! and other array , th n they seem to be like men 1 1 CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS .

I n R a i n the reign of ich rd the Second , great extravagance dress pre n Of m vailed , and most of the ovelties the toilette were drawn fro France , G Italy , Bohemia, Poland , Spain , and ermany . n n Duri g the reig of Elizabeth , pins , ribbons , and knit silk and i n worsted stockings were manufactured London for the first time . At i the death of El zabeth , it is stated that there were three thousand suits di in her wardrobe . The reigns of James and William and Mary were s tin gu ished from that of their predecessor chiefly in the difference in

’ iflur - co es . Enormous hoop skirts came into wear at this time and w remained a favorite article of dress until the nineteenth century, hen r George the Fou th condemned them as cumbersome and inelegant .

From the early part of the nineteenth century, the fashions originating in France have generally been adopted with little or no change by the i l Engl sh , as wel as by nearly all other civilized nations , and this seems likely to be the case so long as the F ren ch ' are able to command facilities Of superior to other nations in rapidity and excellence designs , and to retain for a long time the lead in the manufacture of silks and many other delicate fabrics .

C C NG N N AUSES OF HA E S I FASHIO S .

It is obvious that aside from love of ever -varying novelties on the part of the consumers , there must be the great commercial motive of gain , inspiring and impellin g the producing classes to call for the a cceptance of new chan ges with as short intervals as can be tolerated ; and though among sensible people of moderate incomes the rule seems to have been adopted and followed o f restricting purchases to such quantities as will

in d last good condition only until the usual season for the expecte change , or such material as can be made by alteration to conform to the mode , there is a general tendency among the arbiters of fashion to make the m transition as radical as possible, in order to force a ore general demand n for the new styles . One month we have coat skirts ha ging near the Of heels , when suddenly the decree fashion abridges them to such a de gree that we seem like schoolboys in roundabouts . The same is true as a to length of w ists , fullness or scantiness in the legs of pantaloons , th e h forms of shoes or of ats ; and so , also , in female attire , equally extreme n and arbitrary cha ges occur . It is n atur al that the very prosperous group of clothing industries t n should be subj ect o occasio al periods of overgrowth , especially where they are centralized as in Paris , gathering into their service too large a

t . h force of artists, ar isans, and operatives It is natural , also , t at all of these classes of producers should share in a desire to have as constant n an d profitable occupation as they can obtain . It is oticeable that since the general adoption of steam -power conveyance of travelers by land and sea , the facilities of intercommunication have vastly increased the currents of foreign travel; and thus has the spread of detailed intelligence u m n w been q ickened and ade more frequent , and designs of e modes and 1 2 S PARIS UNIVER AL EXPOSITION .

e n e w m descriptions , sampl s of materials, emanatin g every onth or two r f fallm e from the great cente s o fashion , have been scattered like g leav s a Of an m i n every land , and thus the d nger overstocked labor arket is

e e an d e . lessened , and the hands trained to industry are k pt suppl xpert Matters o f taste being among the highest worldly evidences of the

f i o a is m degree O civilizat on of a nati n , Fr nce naturally a bitious to main tain the vantage- ground ; and having got so far the advance in all the a e r f prep ratory syst ms of study and t aining, it is probable that all ef orts e n at competition with her in these specialties will prov futile , u til the n ew Of W Of the young republic the est, guided by the experience older u na tions , and having establish e d systems Of industrial and art ed cation Of and training , combining the best features of all their prototypes of e a n d her the east rn continent, having collected in museums and schools u n art Of u in reprod ctio s of the treasures E rope , shall , maturer age, de velo in h r p , connection with t e material resou ces of silk , linen , cotton

n and every useful fiber and fleece , the origi ality , invention , and enter prise which ih other branches of endeavor ha ve become n ational char i i a c ter st c s . It is doubtless an experience common even to p ersons of taste and e a refinement , that the impression which the mind receiv s , whether of p proval or disapproval , of some peculiar fashion , depends upon its origin , d association , uniformity , and succession . A su den transition , unheralded a m by the j ournals which lend sanction and uthority to every ode , w e however inconsistent ith all requir ments of taste , or opposed to ideas of convenience or health , and if imitated by a lady unknown to what are f l me considered leading ashionable circles , wou d only excite merri nt on account o f its sin gu l a rity whil e if the sam e change had originated among those upon whom the fa shion able world had been accustomed to look as e e the legitimate inv ntors and dispens rs of modes , and had been simul ta n eou sl an d e y ushered in adopt d by those who , being on the alert, and e possessing wealth , are r garded as leaders of fashion , then , although n ew some faint protests and incredulity may be at first expressed , the style rapidly gains adherents , and suddenly the invasion is complete . From this state of thin gs arises the sig nificance of the phrase in fas h

f ” i o n a bl e Of a i r distin ué. parlance the g All modes , however bizarre and ma n absurd they y seem at first Observation , havin g o ce passed through e eI ther this ordeal , b come, suddenly or gradually, invested with the quality which that phrase is intended to describe . The gravity with

v a n d which the fair wearers move about, in olved in combinations form s ’ r t which distort or caricatu e nature s graceful propor ions , unconscious , a n e h er u s apparently , of y d parture from laws , leads to the inquiry m Of whether the i plicit obedience yielded to the decrees fashion , without u i n m e e appeal to reason and j dgment , has not, even od rn times , b en too much like an abject submission to a despotism which is n o t devoid of mischievous consequences ; whether some code of principles can not be established bywhich t he canons of pure tas te and the requirements of H 1 CLOT ING AND WOVEN F ABRICS . 3

symmetry in form and harmony Of color shall be the first essential s o f a ir d istin ué a n d the g , that any behest of fashion which ignores these the shall fall as a dead letter from moment of its utterance . Some of the whims of fashion have been so inopportune a s even to ff a ect injuriously the health of myriads of her followers , of both sexes . d A love of ress , if indulged by a cultivated intelligence witho ut over n taxing the pecuniary resources of the individual , far from injuri g or

obscuring any mental qualities, may, by the constant appeal to the s c d j udgment and taste, e pe ially in woman , tend to evelope those quali i n in ties of the mind the wearer, as well as that of the producer, which m exercise a refining influence upon character . In fa iliarizing the mind

a n extensively with combinations the essenti ls of which are inventio , Of grace, harmony color and design, and elegance of material , texture , rm o a and workmanship , all of which are to enter into a ha onious c mbin m ' tion with the ost graceful and beautiful of Obj ects , the female form , thus presenting a n ensemble which shall fulfill the highest de mands of

taste, every kindred esthetic faculty is drawn into activity , and by the s a n d q uickened and refined perceptions , what is di cordant, bizarre , gro

tesqu e in prevailing modes is eliminated and d iscarded . R R N R RN N PA IS THE G EAT CE TE OF MODE FASHIO S .

The establishment of Paris as the ce ntral authority and oracle Of fashion for the civilized world has been by no means the result of a cci c s c a n d dent , nor has it been devoid of profound politi al ignifi ance subtle

desig n . Owing to the superior mean s ad o pte d for retai ning the ascen dency in a n early acquired m tters of desig and taste, France has thus far suc essfull m c y aintained that position , and her experience has proved that even much abused fashion is not without its healthful in fluen ce on the

a i n e substanti l ut litaria progress of mankind . This is easily realiz d when we consider what are the studies es sential for qualifying the arti sa n and laborer to originate and carry out designs fulfilling the require ments of critical taste in all the branches of production which supply to the world articles for the adornment as well as the comfort and healt h e u of the person , articl s for domestic use in dwellings , combining tility with the beauty and grace which artistic genius or cultivation can m o f Of i part, articles vertu and decorative art , produced chiefly as lux u ries w for the wealthy , and , finally , orks involving a mastery of the

i e u . h ghest principl s of art, such as desig n, painting, and sculpt re These n -h the studies, pursued in the best orga ized methods , wit access to gal l rie s Of e of paintings and sculpture , and to the best examples every art w hich appeals to the esthetic sense , inevitably carry the intelligent l student into wider an d wider fields of information , en arging the opera n w b tion of his mental organizatio , and expanding his Vie far eyond

the narrow limits of the special Obj ect of his pursuit . The cumulative results of the applicatio n Of a people to particular

h the co - departments of productive industry, wit powerful operation of 1 4 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

c o n fes science and art, is illustrated in the case of France , and she is sedly the leading nation in the respects to which reference has just been made . She has elevated the standard of quality in those branches to e which she has given her energies and her science, and has , by ex mpli n Of Of fyi g the benefits her system , excited a spirit emulation among the leading nations which will greatly promote the progress of all . But in another View the apparent frivolities and rapid mutations Of fashion contribute something real and substantial to the well - being Of society, if restrained within such reasonable limits that the benefits are not counterbalanced by the extravagance or wastefulness which too fre quent changes involve : for they give constant employment to thous o f ands industrious hands , stimulate the inventive faculties and inspire the student an d savant with n ew motives for penetrating more deeply in to the mysteries of nature, and revealing latent properties and powers , i a . wh ch , when called into ction , may surpass all preceding discoveries A striking instance of this character m ay be mentioned here I n the year 1 856 one of the great chemical discoveries was made which from time to time have so signally vindicated the claims of science to the first rank as a guiding spirit to productive industry . It f was the discovery O the aniline colors derived from coal tar, and l u Of general y classed nder the heads violets , reds , blues , greens , blacks,

&c . l . yellows , , and giving a variety of beautifu secondary combinations Manufacturers of textile fabrics have thus been furnished with a series of colors of the most brilliant and v aried hues .

From the very interesting and instructive report of Mr . John L . m Hayes on wools , acco panying this series , I take the liberty of making i u the following extract, wh ch sums p the merits of these discoveries in a most eloquent and appreciative manner “ The use of these colors gives a marked character to the dyed tissu es The of the present age . great change effected by them was remark ably illustrated at the Exposition by a display bf parallel series of wools dyed by the ancient and the new aniline processes . The aniline hues were predominant in the richly colored fabrics of the Exposition , ‘C and, adopting the figure of Colbert, that olor is the soul of tissues , ’ we without which the body could hardly exist , might say that these colors fix the psychological character of the fabrics of the present day .

Among the wonders of modern science , what is stranger than this , that the gigantic plants buried in the coal measures of the ancient world are made to bloom with all the tints of the primeval flowers upon the tissues of modern industry !

EXHIBITION OF COSTUMES .

SPECIMENS OF POPULAR COSTUME S . Class 92 was devoted to specimens of popular costumes of different

n a cou tries in methodic l collections , showing the costumes of both sexes CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 1 5

Of all ages and those most characteristic of each country . This plan l e R w was rea ized to a great xtent, especially in the ussian , S edish , and N ro m en ad in orwegian sections , where , in p g, the visitor was often startled

- n by the life like figures of peasa ts and of interior tribes . In the Chilian exhibition the costume of the miners of that country was Shown in accu

- i Of rate detail , by the life s ze figures standing by the side of the heaps an d C opper silver ores sent from the mines of the Andes . m ur But perhaps the ost striking feat e of the occasion , disconnected n with classifications of the Expositio , was the extensive display of cos tumes upon the persons of many of the visitors and some of the attend

ants at the various sections . Of the male delegation there were Orientals in an d m bright colors flowing draperies , and people fro the Western

countries in garments of more somber material and more formal ou t .

There were Greeks and barbarians of the European world , and natives

of the Celestial Empire , and their more flowery Japanese neighbors ;

and here and there, as strangely picturesque as any, peasants in ante vil revolutionary costume, still preserved , coming from remote side ’ lages of Napoleon s home provinces . Most noticeable on the female side were the waitin g girls at the differ

- - ent national shops, restaurants , and beer houses, sharp eyed for business ,

and ornately decked in the highest style of their quaint local modes .

D HISTORICAL A N FANCY COSTUMES . A few choice specimens of historical and fancy costumes for both ex b m a o n e S es were exhibited y Mada e Delphine B ron , of the eminent a n pr ctitioners in the art of costumi g , which is carried to so great per tectio n in Paris . Its successful practice in the higher grades requires

no inconsiderable historical study , and calls in play really artistic qual

ities . Not unfrequently the dancer at a carn ival ball carries on his back

the work of a distinguished master . ’ i n d A utriche h The costumes Don Juan , w en that play was revived at t few the Thea re Francais a years ago , were said at the time to be com ’ o r Risto ri s posed corrected by Meissonier ; those for Medea , when she ’ in ff S ard o ri s ui first appeared Paris , by Ary Sche er ; those of Don Q ’ ff G u s xote , and of O enbach s buffo opera Ste . Genevieve de Brabant , by

é . t R tave Dor The la e excellent historian , ouviere , himself a painter as w well, in his Faust and Hamlet, follo ed in pose and apparel the mas l ter y illustrations of Delacroix m u ch more closely than the transl ators . m him k r per itted to follow the text of G Othe and S ha spea e .

U R N POP LA COSTUMES OF DIFFERENT COU TRIES . ABSTRACT OF A REVIEW OF CLASS 4 d Costume is sometimes , in its material and form , irectly regulated by Of an d an d climate, as in the hyperborean regions Lapland , Siberia, Finl

l A man -Duma es I n the Ra o t d u J u I n te Tran sl ated an d c on den sed from the repo rt o f M . r d r q pp r ry r n ati on a l . 6 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

m Alaska an d Greenland, which are located far fro the great commercial th e Yako u ts an d w centers . A glance at Ostiaks , , Aleutians will Sho in i i m that these peoples, dressed reindeer or other skins , l v ng a ong eter fe w nal snows , in grand solitudes , subsisting by hunting, having wants , f are satisfied with what we would hardly call the necessaries of li e .

n e Though the varieties are very disti ct, those which are p culiar to

ffi . Of metropolitan centers are di cult to classify The date of the origin

n a cos tume is easy to ascertai from the form of a garment, but why the rustic of Batz has retained in the nineteenth century the dress of the t t c a n time of Louis XIII, elsewhere regarded as a relic of an iqui y, we n not tell . It may , perhaps , be attributed to his particular calling . Whe the salt man entered a villa ge his arrival was announced by the bells e or rattles on his mules . Before his fanciful hat and elegant jack t were

u ran seen , the ho sekeepers out to get their supply of salt ; thus that u s e costume was preserved as a sign . But let consider thos couse qu en c es Of these customs which are of most importance to us .

r Manne s , customs , and usages are still preserved , and they have a l n u mysterious connection with costumes . A gir ca not often make p her f m mind to marry a man not O her village ; gradually a distinct race for s ,

- We men n o vern in . and the remain at home, formi g a self g g colony find patriotism and love of home most de veloped in those countries where u a n d i nces the rustic has preserved the cost me of his ancestors, this sant and reciprocal supervision insures honesty and unity among the

u f inhabitants . There is a to ching harmony in the existence O those a n people that is sure to strike the eye of Observer . m Now let us state the distinction between costu e and dress . i n Costume is the sa ne for all , for the man or boy, the woma or girl , Of a d m and does not change . It is composed solid n durable aterial , wi to wa s u be thout regard fitness ; what once a S nday costume, soon a u comes working cost me ; hat, j acket , and pants are Often repaired

e . but nev r undergo a change of form That is what we call costume .

. h v Dress belongs to cities It changes wi th the whim of t e fashion . E ery f u o r . part of it has a pec liar destination , that is , show or for work The laborer is not dressed if he is obliged to wear his week - day clothes on h Sunday . He must have two suits at least. T is expense is to m ake him look like his fellows , and to follow the fashion of the wealthy 0 ! an w classes . Yet, what is fashion Merely invention for orldly people O h to know each other by . ught sensible people w o have something to e w ! I n do , to be comp lled to follo the fashion France , as elsewhere, fashion is a tyrant that even city work -people consider themselves

u obliged to Obey . Tho gh expensive , they wish to get fashionable clothes a s as cheap as possible ; no matter about the material , so long the style

i s . I n fashionable France the laboring man must have a new suit , no h o w e n fi matter poor the material ; wher as in E gland he is satis ed with th e - cast off fashionable clothing of the better classes . The gaudy gar m in a n d ents of a fop Hyde Park serve the dock laborer , at last the ’ a u nfortunate Irish resident of S int Martin s Lane .

E 1 8 PARIS UNIV RSAL EXPOSITION .

u p articularly , it was necessaryto collect costumes of the last cent ry, Old l still worn by very men ; rare, it is true, but sti l partially used . The classification adopted by the intern ational j ury was independent of these different systems ; it was dictated by the importance of each lot ; and such is the system followed in the succeeding review of the cos ta mes o n exhibition .

SWE DEN A N D NORWAY . The royal commissioners of Sweden and Norway furnished seventeen

- . i groups , of thirty two figures , varying by groups This lot was n the r r first class . All the principal Scandinavian costumes were there ep e f e sented , and at the same time , the dif er nt ages , trades , and customs of Dard l e Of . e the country, ex cuted under the direction Mr , a distinguished n Of in artist and superi tendent the fine arts Sweden , assisted by Mr .

S o ed erman . , a Swedish sculptor The lot is artistic and natural in its en re composition ; it forms a collection of g pictures , representing Har ” “ ” “ ” ’ v ” “ vest, A girl dressing, The rustic oracle, The groom s isit, Ask ” “ ” “ ing the mother , The betrothed , The Laplander in a sled drawn by a ” ” Two w & c . deer, Lapland omen and children , The heads and hands ,

e . a s has been alr ady stated , are very true to nature This lot may be n con sidered as a model of its ki d .

TURKEY.

The Ottoman government sent a very curious collection of popular costumes of different classes Of society ; the number was eighty ; here Of : Z erbek are some the most important the , from the province of n v Smyrna ; the Arnaut, Bulgarian , Bos iak , Laz , pro ince of Trebizond ; Circassian of both sexes ; a man an d his wife of Mount Lebanon ; Alba K Of nian , urd and his wife ; a Jew Jerusalem and one of Bethlehem ; a man of Damascus and one of Salonica ; a woman of Asia Minor ; a weaver and a cook of Constantinople ; a Turk citizen , laborer, and shep man herd ; a Bulgarian wife ; a of Dj edda, another of Bagdad, and one from Mecca . These costumes are very varied in form ; many are covered with gold f O . C embroidery and gaudy braid all colors loth , velvet , muslin , gauze , fur n , and morocco , are strangely mi gled in their composition . Draw ings would represent them better than any description . Their pri ce i s ir low, considering the richness and elegance . It is the Oriental taste in extreme sumptuousness . G EE E R C .

Greece has furnished rich costumes, so covered with gold that the m Of cloth is not seen fro the profusion ornaments . The white fusta r nelle, a small ski t of a thousand pleats , is the most original part, and the leggings as richly embroidered as the j acket . Their elega nce is 1 CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 9

their ‘ fo rm a — ren owned and has become popul r so much so , that we see m e them in pictures everywhere , and they are much used for asqu rades . The most beautiful of the costumes were exhibited by A n d reo n and

Tz en o s men . a n , both for and women The costume of Athenian rustic i Ma n issalis with his w fe, of a new fashion , was sent by g ; that of a man Z of the Morea, sent by appas, and a costume of ancient Greece , that m — ight be taken for that of Phedra, is perfect tunic, peplum , and sandals ,

m . n all of fine cashmere, e broidered with gold It was said to be inte ded

for wear, though one would not think so from its elegance . The same would not be said of the costume of the woman of Psara : the white

silk turban , the waist of velvet, and the skirt of purple silk, were of the

common form . The Greek cases also co ntained parts of costumes of different prov

i n ces . , varying according to locality , though with a general resemblance

m -fi i ve They are dresses for da ly use , their prices varying fro twenty to two thousand francs .

RUSSIA .

R ff ussia, with so many di erent people , might have sent more costumes

to the Paris Exposition , but for an ethnographical exhibition at Moscow, I n where there were more than six hundred costumes . the Exposi tion — m R there were only twenty seven fro ussia , but they were choice , taste

ful . m , and new to many First among them was an Ostiak costume fro N i orthern Siberia, near the mouth of the Obi , covered w th furs . The r d r m an woman and children of the group a e essed alike . The fur of the , , ' s r skin is on the outside of the ga ments, as in all cold countries , to make and h m them warmer. The bottom of the hood the e of the sleeves are i ornamented with colored pearls from the north of Ch na, making them

really gorgeous . tu Tiflis t T u hi The agricul ral commission of , Caucasia , sen a o c n e man Kefsa ur o n e K m and woman , a man , Cossack , and two urd unifor s . ff They di er from those mentioned above , in ornaments , in brilliancy of

colors , and solidity of the material , which is manufactured in the coun ’ h try . The woman s air is carefully plaited ; she has a necklace of coins ; the men carry splendid arms and wear riding boots , thus indicating the

tendencies of the Eastern people . bu t The Crimea sent one Tartar man and woman ; their dress , very i f tasteful , is loaded w th gold embroidery ; the stu f is variegated,of cloth ,

velvet, silk , and muslin .

‘ n fih - i It is only ecessary to mention the s sk n costumes of the Yak o uts A l h . P avl o ff and eutians, ex ibited by Mr , and similar costumes of Lap

- landers from the grand duchy of Finland . Russia might give us many

samples from its tributary lan ds . It is to be regretted that a Russian h countryman with his family was not seen , but, as eac province has its peculiar dress , arbitrarily embroidered , it would be hard to find what l could be ca led a Russian rustic . To have an idea of their taste we 20 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

in an d have but to glance at the towels the Isba, or in the woolen linen ! section . Why were not such costumes sent Perhaps because common things are not appreciated .

SPAIN .

in Lay figures play a great part the presentation of costumes , partie w n u l arly if the costumes are short and narro , and for that reaso those sent from Murcia must be praised . They were of carved wood, with jointed shoulders ; real painted statuettes, with enameled eyes . They show the dress of the males and females of Murcia to a great advantage ; and are so elegant that they are readi ly accepted abroad as the general w type of the hole country . The provincial deputation of C o ruii a and the institute of San Isidro also sent some interesting specimens ; but much more was expected from a country like Spain .

EGYPT .

Egypt had an exhibition of popular costumes , organized by order of 91 : his highness the Viceroy . The first portion , Class , was in cases the second was on lay figures . They represented the farmer, the U e laborer, the negro of pper Egypt , the Sais Berber, the Arab peddl r, m w b . the Copt oman , the A yssinian wo an and the negress The manni kins used were made of hard pasteboard, modeled by the sculptor Cor l m dier . They were very wel made, very graceful in their move ents , r represented their types perfectly, and did honor to thei author . But h that was not all that Egypt a d to Show . Quitting the palace and

t r : going in o the park , might be seen the workmen j ust as they are at Cai o

-mat the barber, the goldsmith , the embroiderer, the rush maker, whose bronzed faces and herculean forms made a deep and lasting impression to on the spectator, and caused him forget for a moment the costumes hi m before .

ROUMANIA .

MoldavI a and Wallachia had many costumes ; fifteen of the principal

o n . e e su ro n io ones were figures They repr s nted the g , the postilion of A r ech g , the royal postilion dressed in white cloth covered with red em

- . r broidery The herdsman , the pea gatherer , the reaper of A to , the

a n &c . D nube fisherman , the mountai hunter, , were characteristic cos tu mes he h of the country . T n t ere were graceful female costumes , em m Od o besco Zu c a siewi z broidered by Mada and Madam t , filling two large

a . was g lazed c ses The bride of Turno also observed , and portions of r costume of admi able workmanship , and of such taste that an innate thirst for elegance in those people is palpable .

PRUS SIA . — The government of S axe~ A l ten burg and Mecklenburg Schweri n had a curious collection . The vestments of the bride of Altenheim were pec u CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 21

— u li ar quite black , the wreath and bouq et of variegated flowers , and u the stockin gs red . It seems they avoid white as caref lly as it is sought

in Paris . The husband wears a small Louis XI hat . A protestant pop u l atio n was discovered in these austere fashions ; but what particularly attracted attention was the n arrow skirt Of a woman from the neighbor o f E rfurth h hood or Gotha ; it only reac ed the knee , and was buttoned in i tight front ; though it mpedes walking, the wind can get no hold Of v under it . A large number specimens might ha e been sent, for the ff ’ costumes of the married women are very di erent from the girls dresses . wa s l aw This distinction first enforced by , and afterward became a cus tom , which has lasted to the present time .

AUSTRIA

an Austria, justly celebrated for its elegant Croati , Servian , Moravian

Hungarian , Sclavonian , and Tyrolian costumes , disappointed many at the n Exposition . nly partial representatio s such as cloaks pants caps O , , , , ,

l n . and belts , and a few specimens on do ls were give However, the u costumes were well known , and have long f rnished patterns to dra matic artists and painters .

TH E ARGENTI NE REPUBLIC .

R u and a uche The Argentine epublic had three gro ps, the g was the o n hero in all of them ; he was horseback preparing to throw his lasso , ma te or had his woman behind him , or was sucking his through a silver bombi lla , held up to him by a girl . His costume and the caparison of and his horse had many silver Spangles on them , the whip handle , u ifi l s t stirrups , bridle bit, and sadd e pommel , were covered with silver , in j f n cation o the ame of the country .

TUNIS .

n an d i n The Bey of Tu is sent a rider horse festive caparison , like Old u those of the to rnaments ; three Moorish costumes , the more curious as they Showed the home dress of the Arab woman ; and three male dresses , all richly and elegantly embroidered .

JAPAN .

t wo Japan exhibited lots ; one from the Tycoon , the other from Prince

. h Satsuma Though separate, they were very muc alike, both represent h ing warriors , horsemen , and footmen , loaded down with arms , elmet on an d Of the head shield on the arm . Their faces were hid by masks hid eo us a appearance ; their arms were singul r and odd in form , so as to he m On terrify t ene y . e would think the entire costume was intended to frighten , from the fierce aspect it gave to the wearer . All the arti cles were carefully and elaborately fashioned , showing the skill of

Japanese workmen . 22 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

DE K NMAR .

m en Denmark had four handsome country groups , and women from Z the islands of ealand, Amak , and Iceland , very like their neighbors the

Swedes . One must belong to that country to disco ver differences that

n o t . do strike a stranger There was , however, a singular detail of cos tume peculiar to them , which was initial letters of gold that the woman i ’ wears on her belt, her fam ly name and her husband s combined, a sym bol of fidelity placed near the heart .

PORTUGAL .

n i n Portugal had a male costume from Ho ras de Miranda, the province o fTras - - w an d a os Montes ; it was bro n in color, was covered with bl ck l ornaments , with a blue vest . The cloak , with a scooped co lar, is gener

‘ ally worn at festivals and weddings . The contrast between the jacket wa dd and vest s o , but attractive . The province of Minho was well represented by a large collection of : the small figures sent from Porto among them were the farm laborer ,

fisher, the water carrier, the Valongo and Avintes baker women , the

an d embroidress - fish woman of Espinho , the of Braya, the lace maker of the country . i A l un te O— The costumes of the prov nce of j brown dress , short breeches , — broad brim hat and t hose of the fine looking people of the Azores ;

embro id ress - those of Madeira, where we find the , the shirt maker, the

’ mlon fl laborer, and the , in his ruf e shirt and pointed cap of such a queer — fashion were wanting . But what can be said against this omission ,

N in when the etherlands , the Pontifical States and Italy , all rich varied ! costumes still worn , sent nothing India sent nothing but a few small

- t figures , very pretty indeed ; Malta sent two life size earthen sta ues , if that looked as intended for a garden ; England, rich in all other classes fin m mmi e . o s at the Exposition , did not send her Scotch costu es These sions were much to be regretted .

FRANCE .

- fi France had forty ve exhibitors sixteen had painted studies or designs well calculated to illustrate the type , fashion , and manner of d ress in the provinces . R u min aphael Jac q e sent a beautiful work, a colored iconography of costumes from the fourth to the nineteenth century . Each plate was et ched by himself and gave all the details most conscientiously . It is a work indispensable to libraries and very useful to artists .

The costumes on lay figures numbered seventy . It was hard work et m to make this collection , y provincial varieties were far fro being complete . I E E — F I N S T R . e Jacob , of Quimper , xhibited country costumes of Brit Plo uare tany, as men and women of Scaer, a bridal pair from ; the CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 23

R a m esi n e an d woman dressed in red , like the oman C p , a groom of K f s er un tu n . These costumes , made on the spot, were richly garni hed with gold an d silver embroidery on silk and woolen ; and what was W most singular, the work was done by men . e can understand how

proud the Breton is of this costume , and why he wears it yet : it is well

made and showy, composed of various materials of excellent quality, ul h h and calc ated to last long, a consideration ig ly estimated by an economical and industrious peoples

Beside this lot, Mr . Jacob has inaugurated a new industry by appro riatin ther p g Breton embroidery and trimmings to coats , vests and q

garments used by men and women as traveling suits . It has been a benefit to the tail ors Of Quimper ; and its success is proved by the extent n n of the business and the imitators of it that have sudde ly spru g up . The Loire Inferieure was well represented by a man and a bride from

a n d . Clisse, and by a man woman of Sailly These were all the costumes

exhibited from Brittany . P — MI ‘ F o ulhou se m UY DE DOME . . was commissioned by his depart ent to collect the costumes of Auvergn e ; this he did with the intelligence

and Skill of a n artist and archaeologist. There were ten types of the

principal localities . ’ d A u ver n e The woman of the Tour g , with her dark woolen head gear,

held on by a brass band, goes back to the Celtic period , if we may trust the tradition , and might have been worn in the time of Gauls when m h they conquered Alaric , near Latour . The brass fillet ay ave been

- taken from the head dress of the conquered as the emblem of triumph , f and the black stuf as the token of mourning, in commemoration of the n death of their countrymen who died o the field of battle . A widow in v w that part of the country still wears the black eil , ithout the band, in token of sorrow . man C A and woman of hapdes, Beaufort , finished the highland series m of costumes . All these dresses are of blue woolen , and are ade by the

o f . women the country They prepare the wool , Spin it , weave it , and

dye it at home . The importation of foreign articles at a cheap rate has t ended to abolish this domestic manufacture .

- - m L ima n e The lower part of Puy de Do e , known as g , sent a male and w S t . R female costume of Bonnet, near iom . The robe is of ool or cot

an d . ton , always of gayer colors than those worn in the highlands It i n gives the elegant type of the women of Auvergne , whom all travelers ’ that province see dancing the bo urree o n Sunday evenings . It is very the i S au xill an e similar to the dress in distr ct of Issoire , where the g ’ l Watteau s women sti l wear the tucked skirt, such as we see in pictures We also see the common dress of the people of Riom worn by the por ters at the feast of St . Amble , the patron of the city, with the high ‘ ifl a bl i i n e o es n . crown slouch hat, as worn by the y directory times It w in L ima n was orn g e only forty years ago . In the valley of the Dare the Vine dressers lived in common during 24 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

G a ita rd Pin on the last century , and were called the , from the chief who wore a red velvet belt with a silver buckle containing the emblems of ’ e agricultur , given to him by the king s intendant in the reign of

Loui s XVI . The women employed to ten d flocks an d herds still wear a broad - rim straw hat worked with their own hands . This hat is tied over the head r with a ribbon , and is a perfect protection f om sun and rain . The pleats of their coarse woolen gowns a re formed by the strokes of a mal f o a . let, which is one the necess ry instruments of the tailor The section of Puy - de - Dome was finished with a collection of archaeo o f logical objects connected with the history costume . The first seen

’ di afi u st s was a bundle of of carved wood , painted by the mo ntain shep

e . v n h rds They came from illages ear Clermont, and were fashioned like those used in the Pyrenees and in Algeria . The next obj ect was a

Celtic belt , very curious , from the village of Corent , once a walled town n of Gaul . On the medals connecti g the brass links were crosses carved by hand to consecrate the articles . They must go b ack to the time

d . u when Christianity was intro uced into Auvergne by St A stremoine . These chains were used u p to the commen cement of the present century

- . C to carry house and trunk keys on There were also lasps , buckles , and

- sleeve buttons of Celtic origin , and these are now imitated in sleeve Vercin i o rix ’s l buttons wi th g t horse stamped on them . The old jewe ry

Of n u Auvergne, that will certainly come into fashion agai , m st also be mentioned . — E DEE . n the V N La Vendee was portioned i to three sections, woods ,

- r plain , and sea coast . The committee went to a g eat expense in the

: exhibition it sent three genuine costumes , but all tended towards the

- . fih same model except the winter cloak of the St Gervais s women and ’ ’ R . the women s caps , much like those of ochelle The men s dress is i more orig nal ; it is the true type of the old Vendean with his broad hat, a n d h short coat, tight breeches ; no socks, but straw in his ard , heavy , wooden Shoes . The costume is not often seen now, but it is very char is i acter t c . The Lower Pyrenees had three specimens from the valley of Ossau ; flou n ced h a the women wore a skirt, hig g iters , and a red hood ; two herdsmen had red caps ; one wa s kn ittin g as if watching his flocks ; the

fla eo l et . other had a lute and g , and he played both at once I GE — A E . R Baron Bardis sent a male costume from the valley of Oust, l a man and woman from the val ey of Massat , and a woman from the s ll valley of Bethmale . These costume are sti worn in the contiguous

- C OIm tr . valleys , and the cloth is made in the y In the snow mountains the

- - leg gaiters leave the knee joint free, so as not to hinder progress through

w . the snow, hile they protect the lower leg Men wear the broad hat

c a berette. common to the country, or the p called the In winter the women a dd a hood to their cloaks to keep their heads warm . LOWER RHINE — The d epartment committee sent a man and woman

C H A P TE R I I .

MATE RIALS FO R CLO THING RE PRE SENTE D AT TH E E XP ITI N O S O .

B C F A C I A N D C S — COTTON FA RI S FROM R N E , GREAT BRITA N, OTHER OUNTRIE COTTON C I N TH E — A N D I B C C ON MANUFA TURE UNITED STATES LINEN L NEN FA RI S, ENORMOUS OF I N F C — E OF I E TH E F C SUMPTION , RAN E VARIOUS STYL S L N N GOODS SHOWN IN REN H — SE C TION RELATIVE IMPORTAN C E OF TH E LINEN MANUFAC TURE IN VARIOUS C OUN — — — TRIES F L A x AND LINEN I N ITALY MANUFAC TURE OF WOOL AND WORSTED TH E — BRITISH ARTISANS ON WORSTED AND MIXED TEXTILE FABRIC S SILK A s A MATERIAL — — — F OR C LOTHI NG TH E SILK TRADE OF FRA NC E SERIC ULTURE I N FRANC E GENERAL B V TH E K OF V C N I — BB O SER ATIONS UPON SIL INDUSTRY ARIOUS OU TR ES RI ONS .

COTTON FABRICS .

I n n s the present age, cotton fabrics bei g the cheape t and most univer m sally used aterials entering into the production of clothing, are natur

ally the most important to the largest mass of consumers . e France, being very properly ambitious to have every d partment of her wonderful industrial interests well represented in an exposition pro ect d in j e and carried out her great metropolis , surpassed all other coun

tries in completeness of exhibition in this department . For the same n grade of goods made by other ations, the French , as a general rule , use

a better quality of cotton , and twist their yarn more evenly and with a

harder twist than other manu facturers . n In all grades of shirtings , fine cottons, calicoes , law s , an d muslins,

the French maintain an acknowledged ascendency . Their exports of

1 8 65 : 1 8 60 these goods for the five years ending with were as follows , 1 861 1 8 62 1 8 63 , , , 1 8 64 1 8 65 , , and spindles furnish the n yar s from which these fabrics are woven . u s o f It appears that , from some ca se or other, many leading staple the m cotton an ufacture of Great Britain were not represented . But the capacity Of British manufacturers to meet the requirements of the world

h t n 5 J 000 000 at large is attested y he facts that she exports of yar s over $ , ,

worth , of calicoes over other printed goods , and of sewing cotton upward of — in all a value of yet none of these branches of the trade were represented to any extent the in Exposition . Our own man ufacturers in this department of industry d eclined to appear ; a case of sewing - cotton from the Clark Thread Company being n the only article exhibited in the class of ma ufactured cottons .

e The Oriental nations , with the exception of P rsia, were scarcel yrep resented . Persia contributed , after the date at which they should have 28 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

m been received , some very rich fabrics , among which were so e printed Of goods in the traditional style the country . R an d N s Wur Italy , ussia, Sweden orway , Spain , Switzerland , Au tria , mber N n N te g , Baden , Prussia , and orth Germa y , Belgium , and the ether Cr e lands , were all more less extensiv ly present in the examples of this e class , and generally with credit to th mselves . The manufacture of cotton goods is the most promin ent feature of h b the textile industry in Wu rte mberg . T is ranch has been developed

i n - mainly w thin the past fifteen years , and supports twe ty one establish

- ments engaged in cotton spinning, employing about spindles , val and hands ; consuming kilogrammes of raw material , 4 ued at 8 .

D COTTON MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITE STATES .

u N The very comprehensive report of my colleag e , Commissioner ourse renders the presentation in this place of statistics of the cotton supply a n d manufacture of the United States superfluous . It will be sufficient to direct attention to the fact that the country di d not make that display of cotton manufactures which j ustice to this important industry required and also to the fact that notwithstanding the great increase of produc f O u . tion all kinds of cotton goods , the demand is not s pplied The average annu al value of foreign cotton manufactures imported 1 821 1 839 v 1 84 0 1 856 in from to , inclusi e, was and from to , cl u sive , the yearly exportation for the same period aver 1 854 1 856 aging only From to , the average annual imports

-er amounted to These values , during the lat periods , con n i sisted largely of piece goods from Great Britai . Of pla n white British calicoes alone our importation s increased from of yards in 1 84 6 in 1 8 56 i to , and of pr nted or dyed calicoes , from yards in the former to yards in the latter year ; and in 1 8 60 we received from that country altogether yards of cottons ; but 1 8 61 1 8 62 in the first two years of the late civil war, and , this importa tion creased to and yards , respectively . h This industry, so vast and important to this country , and w ich de ‘ so ro m n en t 1 8 67 served p a place at the Exposition of , was practically n u represented there . It is not , however, to be inferred from this omis e sion to appear in the greatest of industrial comp titions , that the Amer ican manufacturers lack confidence i n their ability to compete in the quality of those classes of cotton goods which form the great staple fab rics demanded by the m asses of mankind ; but a vague impression that the relative cost of production was to be taken into account in deciding upon the question of comparative merit , seems to have influenced them in d withhol ing their fabrics . The very general and earnest efforts which have been and are being made by the government and manufacturers of the Un ited States to ameliorate the condition of the laboring classes by the payment of 29 CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS .

l ff libera wages , the reduction of the hours of labor, and the di usion ‘ amon g themof all means tending to their elevation and moral , social ,

n and intellectual improveme t . render it impossible, and it is considered

n u n u desirable, for American manufact rers to compete with those of foreig countries in the cheapness of manual labor .

It is to be regretted , however, that they did not present a complete i t exhibition of this class of goods , had only been for the benefit of such d l criticism as competent and faithful experts would have ma e, as wel as for the eela t which they might have shared with some of o ur woolen " manufacturers in bearing o fl golden rewards of success . Th e number of gold medals awarded in this branch was twenty- six ; r of which , F ance received fifteen ; Great Britain , five ; Switzerland and

u . Belgi m , two each ; Austria and Prussia, one each

- n m F Of one h u ndred and thirty seve Silver edals , rance took seventy fie w w v ; S itzerland , thirteen ; Austria and Prussia, t elve each ; Belgium , R seven ussia, six ; Great Britain , five ; Saxony , Holland , and the

n te S . di strib U ited Sta s , two each ; pain , one The bronze medals being u ted in about the same proportion .

The countries represented , and the number of exhibitors from each in 27 Class , Group VI , being cotton yarns and fabrics , are as follows

oun t C o un t . C ry. ry

E t o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o gyp o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Tu n is

C n a . n n n n n hi n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n L o o oo C o o o o o o o o o o o h o o o o o o o o o Switzerlan d M o ro cco Un i te d States G reat B 1 itai u B ritish c ol on i e s an d dep

N N N N N R LI E A D LI E FAB ICS .

N l aturally succeeding cotton comes inen , the production of which was vi sibly stimulated during the civil war in the United States by the sud ~ den and protracted interruption of the supply of cotton . The results of n in he this stimulatio were manifest the linen exhibits of t Exposition . a Fr nce devoted a larger space to this than to any other single industry , in her section of the building, as did also Belgium and Prussia . It was stated in a report to the Chamber of Commerce of Belfast , Ireland , by a 1 8 55 deputation sent to the Paris Exhibition of , that the annua l con sumption of linens in France then amounted to two hundred and fifty L E xP 30 PARIS UNIVERSA OS I TI ON .

million yards— a larger quantity th a n is used in any other country—and

a t w 1 st Of 1 8 66 e French st tis ics Sho that on the January, , ther were in

u t wo d a n d t - six n i that co ntry hun red wenty line mills , conta ning S pin dl es ga n d that in the Departement d u Nord there were power e h all looms ; since which th y have been increased , so t at in France there

- n in e n n can not be less than power looms e gaged w avi g li en . Added i wa s 1 to the supply from this source , an importat on reported for 8 66 of

pounds of yarn , and of linen . Among the pri n c ipal styles of linen fabrics for clothing purposes exhibited in the French a a n d e section are the various typ es used in the nav l military s rvices , in a s in an d th which , well as hospitals prisons , the French adopt e use of

Of . dr a linen instead cotton Then come blouse linens , blue , b , and slate w a n d . r colored , of various shades These ith French fancy d ills , which a i a n d n i are l rgely exported , light l nens , linen ha dkerch efs , from the h a n d C olet district , damasks , were the most notable varieties exhibited .

m N a e ' Belgiu , Prussia , orth Germ ny , and Austria were r presented in a manner showing tha t this industry is well maintained among them ; but

u - Great Britain established a claim to ndisputed pre eminence . Her ex

t Of a u fa e 1 8 6 7 1 8 61 por s m n ctured lin n for six years preceding were , for 1 8 62 1 8 63 a n d u over for , for , p a 1 8 64 1 8 65 u 1 8 66 w rd ; , over , and pward ; ,

E N D IN A R I EXTENT OF TH E LIN N I USTRY V IOUS COUNTR ES .

w a n d The follo ing table , indicating the number of Spindles in activity r th e the 1 8 65 i in const uction at commencement of year , g ves an idea of the relative i mportance of the li nen manufacture of each of the principal countries enga ged in that in dustry

o un . vi To t al C try I n ac ti ty .

1 263 000 , ,

2 63 50 , 8

Ireland produces very good qualities for the spinning Of m edi tun num

. R a R . bers ussia exports considerable q u ntities , principally from iga l n Her inens are pliant and easily worked , but they ever bleach to a per i feet wh te . They serve for the coarser n umbers only . 31 CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS .

Algeria has entered successfully upon the culture of flax . The progress in this culture which she has made under the benign guidance of science l as perpetuated in the mother country, is i lustrated by the fact that the specimens which she exhibited in 1 855 were not adapted to the produc

i N . 25 1 7 ill tion of finer yarns than Engl sh o , ( m imetres , French , ! while those in the Exposition of 1 8 67 were perfectly capable of pro

1 00 . d a cing threads of No .

In France, linen fabrics are manufactured principally in the Departe

u N . ment d ord , Picardie, the environs of Bernay, and in the Pays de Caux

The linens of this last district as those of Picardie are of in ferior quality . du N Those of Bernay and ord , although superior, do not equal in quality i the linen of the Lys , (Belgian ,! that are gathered in the env rons of

urtra i i . Of C o y, and wh ch are all of h ghest grade The environs Gand , r Lockeren , and Malines , fu nish also linen fiber of a quality perfectly

fin . adapted to yarns or threads of e numbers The annexed tabular statement shows the magnitude of the linen industry of Belgi um from the years 1 855 to 1 864 :

n E x o tat on . I mpo rtati o . p r i

Year.

u an t t e . u Valu e . Q i i s Val e .

D D FLAX A N LINEN GOO S IN ITALY .

The produc tion of flax in the kingdom of Italy is estimated to be about 1 n in metric qui tals , that of hemp about metric quintals ,

all metric quintals . The principal varie ties cul tivated are the n i ordi ary hemp , the Chinese hemp , and giant hemp ; the stalks of th s in last variety sometimes atta a height of five metres , (sixteen feet . ! This product forms q uite an important item in Italian commerce ; the 1 8 62 1 863 1 8 64 1 8 65 imports and exports for the years , , , and , averaged m respectively etric quintals , valued at francs , and

- metric quintals , valued at francs . Three quarters of

l . ur the exports go to Austria, principal y in a raw state D ing the three 1 8 63 1 8 64 1 8 65 a years , , and , the imports of hemp made into cord ge 1 1 1 30 i averaged , , metric quintals , valued at francs , wh le the

1 Th uin es o r o u n e q tal 100 kilogramm , p ds . 2 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

exports for the same period averaged metric quintals , valued at

francs .

The Spinning of flax and hemp is still generally done by hand , there w i n bu t fe . e being factories which power is used There are, how ver, three in all in Lombardy, having Spindles and giving employment to r 0 245 735 an d 98 persons , of whom are men , and women children .

e an d e - fi The wag s for the women childr n vary from twenty ve to forty

fiv m - e centimes per day ; that of the men fro one franc thirty two cen

times to two francs per day . The quantity of flax an d hemp which is consumed in these establish i w ments is metric qu ntals, from hich is produced metric i quintals of all qualities . To the work which s done in the factories

a m must be dded the work done with hand loo s by peasants, who are employed in Spinning one hundred and fifty days during the year . e Their av rage earnings are fifteen centimes a day, and the whole

amount paid annually for this work is francs . The city of Bologna possesses two factories capable of producing

metric quintals of thread per annum . The amount of hemp and flax spun in Italy is not sufficient to supply

the home consumption . The greater part of this material is exported in e a raw state , and returns in the form of thread , having b en spun in the

great factories of England and France . The average exports and im 1 8 62 1 8 65 ports of thread for the years , and are as follows : Ex a a : ports , metric quint ls , valued at fr ncs Imports, me tric quintals , valued at francs . In weaving linen there are em ployed looms and workmen . The entire production may be valued a t francs per annum . There are many factories es tablished d a i n h ro vm c es in Pie mont, in Lomb rdy, and the sout ern p , but in the country there are local manufactures which supply the home consumption .

The fine linen used in Italy is almost all imported . The importations

a n d from France England have increased of late years to a great extent,

‘ o fi whil e the exports have fallen proportionately ; the average imports f r a 1 8 63 1 8 65 a o three ye rs , from to , inclusive , being metric quint ls , a a valued t francs , against metric quintals , valued t the e francs , exported during same p riod .

MANUFACTURES OF WOOL AND WORSTED .

as a In an economic point of View, and a branch in which the nation l taste, n skill , and thoroughness of workma ship were brought to the test, this feature of the Exposition was not surpassed . France and England vied with each other in presenting to th e ad miration of the world series of

o f a n d for tissues great beauty utility female wear, such as double meri e ff a a a noes , poplins , b aded stu s , figured and fancy goods , m teri l m de f th e Of m erin o es a e an d rom wool the Angora goat , printed or c shmer s , r fin n e de lai es, heavy Orleans cloth and alpaca, mixed goods made f om

34 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

r u serin u an d lection of t o gs , shawls , and the soft, beautif l durable fabrics e b for which she is c le rated ; and Ireland some good tweeds , freezes , and tro u serin gs .

W S TED A N D IVH XE D TE TI E F I OR X L ABR CS .

The x n wo rth following is an e tract from the report made by Daniel Illi g , u of Bradford , England , one of the British artisans , and p blished by the Society of Arts : “ After taking a general survey of the exhibition , we began looking at m . d the Bradford goods We found various akes , inclu ing lastings , cam i e an d lets , cords , a few Coburgs , Orleans, various str p s mottled fabrics ; n Of w o ur nothi g made for the special purpose Sho , but goods taken from

. in a present stocks Similar goods can be seen our m rket at any time . n They are made from cotto , wool , and silk . “ a In looking over the fabrics of continent l manufacturers , the French

. N I must say , are superior to any other, both in quality and dye o com w e w a parison can , ho ev r, be fairly instituted bet een goods m de of all wool , wool and silk , and goods made of mixed wool and cotton . “ We were told in France that we could not dye m erin o es ; that when they a had e sent them in the gray to Engl nd , they to be s nt back to Paris to a an d h dye and finish . Their merino weft and w rps are carded Spun wit

u a b the o t oil , to which is ttri uted deficiency of our shades ; but if we cannot dye the French goods , which are without oil , our dyers must find some other excuse . “ all - an d In looking over the French goods in the wool , wool silk , the

- m erin o es a re a . particul rly good The reps made of all wool , wool and

- silk , are beautiful . They have also the plain poplin , all wool , which is a a a N0 lso good ; of these they h ve an enormous and most varied displ y . d in m fin e prices were affixed to the French goo s this class , but fro the mu ness of the quality they st be very costly . They are goods that will not be extensively made in England . The competition is so pressing e a that we are obliged to mak a cheap rticle . “ f U The collective Show o Roubaix was good . pon inquiry we found

a w . that they had been m de expressly for sho , regardless of expense This contains goods similar to the Bradford manufactures in mixtur es of

bu t d e . cotton , wool , and silk fabrics , nothing new in sign “ o fir - m erin es . C . st o Messrs . Delattre , sr had a class show of , poplins , an d an d reps , mottled fabrics , which had been made regardless of cost f i n h of superior material to any that I saw a terwards t e working process . “ The goods shown from Roubaix are superior to ours i n quality . fi m On visiting Roubaix we encountered much dif culty in gaining ad it tance to the places of business ; a n d where we were allowed to see the comb i n d n o t a g, rawing and Spinning, we were llowed to see the weaving ; and nl so o y in one instance did we succeed in doing , but in that we found R nothing to learn . In oubaix we found some of the lowest classes of

t w . wool in process , and spun in o eft 5 CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS .

“ We next went to the manufa cturing town of Rheims , where we were

vi . well received . We sited several firms in the town and district There

and m m erin o es the are made poplins , reps , cash eres and , last named being Dau h the principal manufacture . We visited the firm of p in ot and i n Of e Brothers , who have a good Show the exhibition reps , cashmer s, m rin & c . e o es poplin s , yarns , tops , wool , , but are their principal make at n u h h present . The woole warp is sp n in single t reads , on caps ; t en it is

- w taken and twisted two fold on a roving bobbin , from hich it is warped onto a beam to form one Sixth Of the warp ; then it runs from the six o n e beams onto , and as it runs from the six beams it passes through a size of glue and water . When it comes out of the size every end is separated

h t wo all and dried wit fans before it reaches the beam , and this is man aged by one girl . There are no dressers, no warping mills , and very m little labor attending the process . This method of sizing and bea ing n n ew i is othing ; t is similar to the cotton process . “ There are both one and two -loom tenters ; but as far as we could see

u . fir and learn , q uality is more sought after than q antity We noticed a st rate machine for finishing or cleaning knots from the face of m erin o es & . t c . and other fabrics By his machine the superfluous ends , , are o ff r n shaven , and at the same time the g ou d is raised , by which process n m a richer appeara ce is given to the cloth . This achine is in the form w t o . of going parts of a loom , and works the same way The pieces pass n t over the surface of the goi g par , where a peculiar knife is fixed , which o ff takes all the fibers . A great number of women are also employed to clean the pieces , and every care is taken to make them as perfect as pos

- . m i n fi ve sible In one piece roo were fifty, and another twenty , of those

. an wa s women employed If end out it was sewn in , and all ends or su erflu ities ff fibers cut from the edges and p of every kind cleared o . “ firm x . S e d o u b C i 85 o . C a t a u We visited the of Messrs y , Sie er , Le . in n This is the largest firm France . We oticed their case in the exhi

. merin bitiou It consisted of reps , poplins, cashmeres , and o es a really

fir - a st cl ss show . “ n We oticed a very good case from Prussia , of goods similar to our own . ifil d u With regard to machinery, we found it very c t to gain

m . ad ittance to the French department At last, however, we succeeded , n n m n a d O exa ini g the looms we did not fin d anything t o learn . There

n ew n u was the plain and drop box loom , but nothing , and no e eq al to r the Yorkshi e looms for the Yorkshire trade . We consider it u n n eces sary to dilate upon the excellence of our looms . I L ar n i n the Exhibition we were indebted to Messrs . so n er Brothers Company for the Opportuni ty of examining several cases of French h o wn goods . T ey very kindly opened, not only their case, but others l m for our inspection , and a so gave n s sa ples . “There are few goods exhibited by the continental manufacturers for the use of the middle an d workin g classes . The Bradford goods are N 36 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITIO . most suitable and substantial ; and the surprising cheapness of these fabrics it is hoped will attract the attention of our foreign merchants h in this class , and obtain from t em a due appreciation , and stimulate a ” demand for our goods .

K R R N SIL AS A MATE IAL FO CLOTHI G .

The o ppoi' tu n ity presented at this Exposition for the study of the ff production and the products of silk , was probably the best ever o ered n to the world ; for the competing exhibitors in the Fre ch section , rely in g on their ability to keep in advance of all rivals in a manufacture so ma i entirely dependent upon individual Skill , which y be regarded w th them as an accumulated heritage descending from one generation to e l i n m a another, eagerly r vea ed , co pli nce with the requirements of the th e an d e Imperial Commission , all methods proc sses of their industry . i n To no country, in its bear ng on ational industry , wealth , and taste, is U e the subject of more urgent moment than to the nit d States , and the a opportunity has been well improved by my able colle gue Elliot C . ha . N s Cowdin , esq , of ew York , who so exhaustively discussed the subject of the production and treatment of the raw material , as to leave n scarcely anything to be said o this branch of the subj ect . T e n o f m a are a h rich stores , in the French sectio , silk ateri ls m ny of i n them marvels of beauty color and design . Though the newly dis n o w covered colors extracted from coal tar and Oil , known as aniline r colors , have done much in this di ection , the artistic taste and feelin g developed by the admirable system of techn ical or industrial art educa

w t m a - e tion , hich , as before in i ted , lies at the basis of French pre emin nce in the fabrication of a rticles of elegan ce or luxury admitting of the application of design , has done still more . ha s a n r In silk , which such a rem rkable capacity for receivi g colo s , an d at the same time retaining its sparkling freshness and power of reflecting light, the knowledge of design and of the proprieties of color a u f is even more important th n text re and quality O material . i n Artistic designing is itself an important industry Paris , and is l l liberally consu ted by the manufacturers , who thereby maintain nove ty embro id and excellence in their tissues , shawls , brocades , ribbons , and erie s . E E x . o si Lyons and St tienne were shown , by their specimens at the p d r . tion , to be the seats of highest evelopment in the silk manufactu e This was d emonstrated by the collective exhibition of the Association u des Tisseurs de Lyons , and the s perb tapestry or damask silk contrib

-Meau zé et u ted by Messrs . Pillet Fils , as well as that of Messrs . hevo n an d a Met Bouv rd , of regal richness ; by the specimen of taffeta brocaded silk with lace patterns enriched by garlands of e flowers , and also a taffeta silk with v lvet representing birds , flowers , a and fe thers , imitating nature so cunningly as almost to deceive the eye . Some impression of the beauty of design attained in the manufacture CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRIC S . 3 7

c a n of woven silk may be derived from illustrations , but they give no r idea of the crisp f esh loss and play Of light and shade, nor of any of the delicate qualities which make Silk what it is when the highest work

n n . manship, skill, and taste have bee bestowed o its production The relative position of Great Britain to the other silk manufacturing n n o t t ations , was perhaps j ustly presen ed at the Exhibition, but the most favorable exposition of her products in that line would leave her ir n . Mo e i far behind Fra ce antiques , Irish poplins , black crape, and pla n é u h in and glac silks of good q ality eac their grade , illustrate the general tenden cy of British manufacturers to supply the substantial fabrics of

established quality generally demanded by the great mass of consumers , leaving the French to supply the more ornate and elaborate varieties called for by the classes who lavish wealth in keeping pace with the a m n fleeting f ncies of fa shion . One very rich aterial of the ki d known tissue de verre u e as , for f rniture and curtains , reflected cr dit upon the

e . . h xhibitors, Messrs Grant and Gask , of London It was brilliant wit I s in fine Spun glass , which getting to be much used decorative tissues . Th d 1 8 62 w e great Lon on Exhibition of , at hich the English displayed m b in k marked progress over her for er exhi itions sil manufacture , as well n m in desig as in other qualities, seems to have sti ulated France to renewed vigor and originality, while the subsidence of the English would convey the idea that they had formerly made, by a spasmodic

eff o ff . ort, exceptional specimens for the purpose of carrying the prizes in Professor Leoni Levi, his able and instructive report upon the silk manufactures at the Exposition to the British government, gives the following statistical in formation upon this subj ect : “ n - fi t Withi the last twenty ve years there has been a grea oscillation in I n 1 8 4 0 the imports of ra w silk . the imports amounted to m 1 8 60 pounds ; fro that time they increased enormously, till in they reached pounds . But afterwards there was a considerable ” i n 1 86 7 . decrease, and they were not more than pounds He then shows that the disea se in silkworms caused a great competition in

u u the p rchase of China and India unmanufact red silk , causing a rise of

u . from eighty to one h ndred per cent , and that in an industry where the t he raw material enters so largely in total value , such a rise left but ” little surplus either for labor or capital . He further observes : “ l m Fo lowing the unsatisfactory condition of the raw aterial , the . f 1 8 4 6 . R exports of British silk have su fered greatly In , when Sir obert

t . it Peel reduced the duty on silk manufactures from thir y per cent , as

t . n . was lef by Mr Huskisson , to fiftee per cent , the value of exports amounted to no more than From that time it increased regu l arl i n 1 856 m n y, till the value a ounted to Soo after, the i n m d disease silkwor s appeared , prices rose, and the cheaper escriptions of silk became dearer in proportion than similar articles in wool or

other materials . 38 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

“ 1 8 60 m e o f a Then , too , in America, our chief ark t , became the prey 1 8 61 a n d r m fearful civil war, and the exports fell in to f o that time they furth er fell to in 1 8 6 7: Even the six months 1 8 6 7 d ending July , , Showed a considerable iminution as compared with the similar period in 1 8 66 . To a certain extent the check to the pros perity o f t h e manufacturer has been a s much felt in L yo n s as i n S pital h fields and Manchester ; but w ile England did not get the better of it, t n 1 8 51 m France did . Of ribbons , for ins a ce , in the export fro France amoun ted to in 1 8 55 they rose to and in 1 8 6 1 1 6 fell to but they have since recovered to in 8 6 . “ a a ff e The silk trade of Fr nce , s a whole, exhibits a very di er nt progress from that of England as regards the exports of silk m a n ufac wo are b a n ture . When the t placed side y side the comp riso is very striking :

E xp orts fro m I n crea se p er E xp o rts fro m I n crease per Year .

E n an n F a n e . en t gl d c e t. r c c

l 31 8 000 1 850 000 , , , ,

“ f r e w 1 8 51 1 8 55 The dif e enc bet een France and England from to , and

1 8 6 1 1 8 66 is n . from to , very otable “ the What , however, alarms the British manufacturer is fact, that t d while the exports of Bri ish manufacture ecreased , the imports of I n 1 8 55 French and other foreign manufa ctures have greatly increased . the real value of foreign silk manufa cture imported was only

I n 1 8 60 1 8 67 h n it was and in , T ere is othing n surprisi g in the fact of such increase , the diminution or abolition of w a import duty being al ays followed by a l rger trade , by which the com n wa munity at large is benefited . O ly in this case the natural result s h more sudden , from the fact t at just when we Opened our ports , the n a e e n a nd America m rkets b ing clos d , a large portio of French German ul b n e silk, which wo d otherwise have ee sent thith r, found its way to this coun try . “ From these accumulated evils the manufacturer in this country has t f been placed under no ordinary strai s and di ficulty , and there is no doubt that thereby the ability of England to compete with Fra nce in certain descriptions of silk manufacture has been greatly put to the test! ’ R R N R N 1 SE IC ULTU E I F A CE .

e S o u 1 8 55 S riculture is not prospero s as it was in , on account of the

- . A e w a silk worm disease lthough it has long be n kno n , its dis sters

1 E t a t t a n s at o n f o th e e o t o f u es Rai mbert o f th I n u x r c ( r l i ! r m r p r J l , e n te rn atio al J ry .

a o ts d u u n te n atio n to ni c u a rieme . 162 . R pp r J ry I r al , q t , p C L OTH I N G A N D WOVEN FABRICS . 39 in Fran ce began after the Exposition of 1 8 55 an d ‘ spread over all silk producing countries . For eighteen years , every remedy has been tried in vain to arrest its ravages .

i n 1 8 40 The silk crop France, previous to the epidemic of was w estimated at t enty millions of kilogrammes of cocoons , worth , at the fiv A e . t average of francs , one hundred millions of francs that time t one ounce of eggs yielded thir y kilos of cocoons , and seven hundred thousand ounces of eggs were required for France . N a millio n ow more than ounces of eggs are put to hatch , to allow for a n ten losses , and they only yield average of million kilos of cocoons ,

- - fif o f . mi l bringing ty eight millions francs This is a loss of forty two lions ; and it is more evident if we compare the quantity of raw silk

an d . t formerly produced , that produced now Then , the quanti y

two - produced was nearly million kilos , costing seventy two francs the kilo ; the yield now is not over six hundred thousand kilos , but the

ha s o n e w . m price arisen to hundred and t elve francs Thus , silk is fro n sixty to one hundred per ce t . dearer than formerly, and its production

- has diminished two thirds . To supply this deficiency, silk is imp orted . 1 8 55 At the time of the Paris Exposition of , domestic silk was used E to the quantity of eighty per cent . Lyons and St . tienne were the two centers of the flourishing manufactures . h 1 8 62 At t e time of the London Fair of , the silk crisis was at its

“ an d u height, silkworm eggs were bro ght from Caucasia and the lower

. 1 865 was Danube to supply the business in western Europe In , such

- in fi . ve the scarcity France , that seventy per cent of silk was imported , 1 8 6 7 n and in , when the Exposition ope ed, the silk industry was in a n desperate co dition . Subsequent to 1 8 62 another importan t event had occurred : the early cocoons of Europe h ad died out a n d fresh eggs had to be brought from m the East, chiefly fro Japan . The cocoons of that country are of an w inferior quality, and are often double . They are yellow, hite , green , t t n gray , and generally smaller han ours , thus making heir manipulatio A more difficult . good spinner formerly made three hundred and fo rty

m n o w w ' hun d r d gra mes a day ; she hardly makes t o e .

G A N D SPINNIN MILLING .

The position of the silk spinners was becoming critical , from priva n tions of sources of former prosperity , and contention with unknow ff rivals ; and milling su ered from the same causes . The quality of the m ffi a n d t raw silk beca e inferior, its winding di cul ; its manufacture n became more expensive , on accou t of the working classes of the coun m 1 8 62 1 8 67 try flocking into the towns . Fro to , the cost of labor rose as much as twenty per cent . t m al ffi l But in Spi e of the bad aterial and against di culties , we are proud to say that France is still at the head of the silk -pro d u c in g coun

. A rdeche tries The Spinners and millers of , Drome, and Vaucluse form E 4 0 PARIS UNIV RSAL EXPOSITION .

n . a phala x unrivaled for the manufacture of organzines , plush , and satin The number of these factories is about the same as in 1 8 62 fo r we found the same houses exhibiting at the late Exposition that exhibited 1 8 62 at the London Exhibition in .

u The Spinneries of the Cevennes keep p their reputation for their silks . h They ave had to contend with Japan , that Shows many elegant Speci h mens in cases , such as green Silk , which is now taking t e place of white and yellow . What was inj urious to the Spinners of pure Silk , proved n w be eficial to those that orked the tow and refuse of Silk . Owing to the high price of silk , that industry has increase d considerably in

w - France, S itzerland , Italy , and England , particularly for three ply cord . Considerable improvements have been made in the preparation of i n this material , before combing and the subsequent manipulation of it ; to w u and they have raised the price of , which is now sed for many N articles that used to be made of pure silk . Paris and imes furnish the best Specimens of sewing Silk, and Silk used for embroidery and fringes . In Spite of the obstacles that scarcity of the raw material has thrown

has . in the way of this industry , it prospered Winding has also improved by now furnishing skeins of regular size 1 855 and quantity . Specimens were first exhibited in , but now skeins i are made very large for the use of sew ng machines , that have come into use Since that time .

The scarcity , and , as a natural consequence, the dearness of all sorts e dou i o ns of Silk , have given a real importance to that kind call d pp , once n o w u used in ordinary fabrics only, but made p by many Paris houses , some of which make it a specialty .

a The little business of winding, spooling , and balling silk , has re ched m m an i portance through achines that have cheapened the processes , once so tediously performed by hand .

n Though outside of our line, we cannot refrain from mentioni g the m e o f i provements made by the dy rs Paris and Lyons . The chemists and dyers of those cities have made discoveries of new coloring materi f l &c . e e . als , ca led aniline , fuchsine, , that hav produced wond rful ef ects h The ex ibitors of those cities had purple , violet, blue , and green silks at n a the Paris Expositio , unequaled by any colors heretofore displ yed at fairs . Twenty years ago , the French blue and black Silks were the most admired as fixed colors . in The production of Sil k has n o t succeeded well our African colony , Algeria ; many cocoons and a few tissues were sen t to the Exposition ; l there was but one specimen , however, that could compare with the si k of Lyons .

GENERAL OBS ERVATIONS UP ON THE SILK INDUSTRY OF VARIOUS

COUN TRIES .

I n glancing at the Silks sent by different countries to the Exposition . we can study the character Of the people that produce them without going to their homes to see them .

4 2 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION . of thin gs will certainly chan ge in time ; but it cannot change so much as other kinds of manufactures , because of the peculiarity of the ribbon business . Two a kinds of ribbon are made here, the f ncy ribbon and the common

- ribbon . The latter employs three fourths of the labor, and supports a o f n l arge portion the populatio . Since large factories have been estab l ish ed o f E elsewhere , the manufacturers Saint tienne have been obliged o t e u t exert hems lves to keep p their merited reputation . The fancy ribbon manufacture requires an infinity of d esign s that m m f m a be ust be made by hand ; for, achinery , per ect as it y , cannot

- w n The a bend itself to all the variety of hand eavi g in ribbon s . v riations a ff and ch nges in these looms are e ected by the weavers themselves , who must be workmen of skill and ta ste . As th e workmen are interested in the success of their machinery and

d the u its pro uct, work is always of a superior kind . Stim lated by a person l interest, they are constantly improving their business , and Of perfecting the mode operation : they all want to become inventors . It is Sing ular that no invention or improvement has been discovered by a professional mechanic or e n gineer ; all the discoveries a re d u e to

Operatives or workingmen . Hence the success of emulation , which is the o f E n prosperity Saint tie ne . The most intelligent operatives see the possibility of rising ; theys ee that one - third of the manufactories of Saint Etienne belong to men who were former overseers and they I n a i n . know that most of the rich men began the same way f ct , it is very easy to become a m a nufacturer at Saint Etienne ; it does n o t require bi h a a g ouse nor much c pital . The looms and tools belong to the operatives ; it only requires two or three looms to entitle a p erson to a n license to begin busi ess . The success Of the beginner depends on his ' a is o ften invention of some fancy rticle th at will take . Expectation deceived ; but the places o f those who are d is sappo inted and leave a re i e an d t . soon fill d by newcomers , the competi ion continues This expla ns the reason why we see so many n ew names at every Exposition . There are more than two hundred establishments at Saint Etienne a f an d F o r eng ged in the manu acture sale of ribbons . many years the business ha s reached near one hundred thousand francs per annum . i The saying of Colbert, that taste s the essence of trade , is particularly n a n d m applicable to the ribbon busi ess , is especially exe plified at Saint

E . tienne . Division of labor is nowhere S O well arranged as there Paris is the chief market for fa ncy ribbons ; but they a re sent to

n . foreign countries from there , and get the ame of French or Paris ribbons But England and the United States buy their ribbons directly from E Saint tienne . Previous to 1 8 60 the ribbon manufacture took an unhealthy flight ; The e but Since that year i t has subsided into reasonable limits . Am ri can war and the silk - worm disease were the causes of depressio n in the business Since 1 8 60 ; and then the small hats for women and the s ubsti 4 CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 3

u i n l l n t t o of p ain for fancy ribbons, and ace and fri ges for both , did much

harm to the ribbon industry . 1 8 62 Since the business has been stationary, and there seems to be a n tende ncy to condense labor into large factories . By the inventio of co m ensa to rs n new machinery called p , Chinese silk is worked to adva tage . m be t It is not only i portant for ribbons to smoo h , but they must be a n d b brilliant, that rings dyers into important use . This branch of the r a E business is reduced to a fine a t t Sain t tienne . Besides furnishing a t coloring for material used home , these artists dye for the Lyons man u fa turer a c s that used to send their silks to S int Chamond . The twenty nine steam ~ dyein g establishments at Saint Etienne give work to more n e than o thousand persons . 1 8 1 2 E In a school of design was founded at Saint tienne , and it has educated the skilled artists that have kept u p the prosperity of the

n ff - place . Indepe dent of the di erent day schools of design . decoration , and

n o w - painting, there is a night school , where more than one hundred pupils assemble every n ight to learn arts that will be useful to them the

next day .

m w - a In the depart ent of the Loire, there are t enty four thous nd person s in at v t employed the ribbon manufacture , not counting the oper i es tha

w - i n work i n larg e factories . The t enty four exhib tors at the Expositio variet o f r d had every y ribbon ; fancy , plain , f inged , velvet, lace , net , meshed

&c . l d for cravats , elastic , Several houses make e astic tissues for rawers , e garters , and other uses . The gum is brought from England , wher it is i n prepared large quantities , and its use is extending in France .

RIBBON MANUFACTURE IN COUNTRIES OTHER THAN FRANCE .

1 8 62 At the London Fair of , Coventry , England , was represented by n nine manufacturers of ribbo s . Only three sent their samples from 1 8 67 England to the exhibition of . The specimens were ordinary , and seemed to be intended for commerce alone . There was no velvet ribbon I n 1 8 62 among them . there were elegant broad ribbons , with worked n flowers , gothic letters, and other ornaments , eatly executed ; but at the ! Exposition we have nothing of the kind . What became of them The l Eng ish seem to want initiative taste in artistic composition . They can n t copy French designs , but invent o hing ; yet , the solidity of their fabrics m commends the to certain buyers . C The factories at oventry are increasing in importance , and the pro d uce is all consumed at home . at a a diffeI en t The factories B sle , Switzerl nd , are quite from those of

E . h ad Saint tienne At the latter place , a small number of producers e t at i n h m an d mocra ized the business , Basle, it is the ands of wealthy f r r u ac tu e s . are m I n C There only twenty S ix anufacturers that ity , an d n Sixteen exhibited at Paris . The collection was arra ged with admirable a ff t ste, so as to catch the light in the most e ective manner . The manu fa ctu rers m there are more of erchants than artists , so they make plain 4 4 E PARIS UNIV RSAL EXPOSITION .

ribbons that find a ready sale anywhere . We are certain they made nothing expressly for the fair . There are between S ix and seven thou

at -m l o w- sand looms Basle, and they are all confined to well ade , priced , salable ribbons . e l e in All vari ties are co lect d a single case . The prin cip al style is the f a ta feta ribbon , of v rious breadths , and of every quality . There were a n d a plain glazed ribbons , black and blue belts , and many other rticles h B a sl for whic c is famed . The business at Basle is estimated at thirty

- fiv or thirty e millions . The city deserves credit for having kept up the business against such killing competition . I n 1 8 34 Basle exported only ten millions in ribbons . The business

e - n o t has sinc increased three fold , though the number of looms has e h incr ased in the same proportion . The machinery a s been greatly

i n improved , and the work Shows the advantage of perfect machinery any business . With this increase of production , wages have remained station ary . n all Basle ribbo s find their way over the world . The plainest and fin most substantial d a ready sale in England and America . At former international fairs we were astonished at the sluggishness of the man ufacturers on the banks of the Rhine in taking part in the industrial tournaments of the world ; a n d we were still more a stonished in 1 86 7 to see only four Prussian exhibitors in the palace of the Champ d e . m n Mars This seems the ore stra ge , inasmuch as the prosperity of b h those ri bon factories is known to the w ole world . m Besides five thousand looms for velvet ribbons , and any hundreds m fo r are h a of hand loo s the same , there more than ten t ous nd English in k a looms used Prussia for ma ing colored velvet ribbons . Their s le is

ll ~ m a fo rt five . good at times , and the business amounts to forty or y illions o ne a a n In addition to these, there are about thous nd bar looms for pl i

b f a . ribbons , lack and colored ta fet s , and pure or mixed silk Prussia also produces a large quantity of lacings , braids , and mixed gold cord . m m e Since the last treaty of com erce , ost of these articles are export d U n d n a . to the nited States, England , Fra ce Austria was represented at the Exposition by S ix ribbon manufacturers ; but we are not to j udge of Vie n na by what we see at the Exposition ; we exhi must look into the past . It is plain that the work of the articles on

bitio n n m . is rude, and the desig s are evidently fro France n a The dress of Vienna ladies is remarkable for eatness and t ste , and the men dress with elegance and care ; these elegant habits certainly have an influence on the manufacture of ribbons in that country ; but the manufacturers need boldne ss i n design and innovating enterprise . Austria does not export much in the way of ribbons ; fancy ribbons are imported from France ; taffetas and black velvet from Prussia ; bu t t in these importations are diminishing daily, on accoun of improvement the domestic manufacture . There are suppose d to be from one thousand eight hundred to two thousand ribbon looms at work in Vienna and i n the neighborhood . C H A P TE R I I I

THE INDUSTRY O F READY- MADE LO THIN C G .

— TH E ARTISTIC EXC ELLEN C E OF WEARI N G A PPAREL PRODUC E D IN PARIS STATISTIC S

- - — OF TH E MANUFAC TURE I N FRA NC E READY MADE C LOTHING F OR WOMEN TH E ’ — SEAMSTRESSES ART I N PARIS TH E MANUFAC TURE OF HATS F OR MEN AND WOMEN K — OF TH E H A T D F N C C OF TH E COR HATS CENTERS TRA E IN RA E , AND STATISTI S MANU — — FAC TURE BOOTS AND SHOES MANUFAC TURE OF C LOTHING I N TH E UNITED STATES

- — HEAD DRESSES F OR LADIES A RTIFIC IAL FLOWERS . To no other general exhibition of industry could this feature of wear in g apparel be so peculiarly suitable as to one held in the French ’ metropolis, the fertile mother city of the world s fashions . The branches of trade centering in the general production of wearing apparel are among the most important specialties of Paris in an economical point of

View . The aggregate value of their yearly products is estimated by the hundred of millions of fran cs ; they furnish a large item of exportation her for foreign commerce . As a general rule , exhibitors easily surpassed al l competitors from abroad ; a n d where these last successfully susta ined n n compariso , they Ofte est only furnished a tribute to the taste and skill of French men and women who have emigrated to the workshops of l foreign employers . This statement is especia ly applicable to all articles of female attire, from under garments to the patent elegancies of skirt

a n - fi and cors g e ; from the eatest of foot gear and gloves of proverbial t ness to the fanciful ha t . An attempt to explain the remote causes of this French superiority l would be most instructive . It is of no modern date . It was practical y K admitted by our English ancestors , five centuries ago . in g Edward , m returning fro French conquests , brought home conquering French i n his fashions baggage train , which , subsequently, and more than once , ’ h stirred Chaucer s satiric umor . The subject is not an altogether trivial n one , and justifies a passing indicatio of some of the more immediate and apparent causes of the admitted excellence of Parisian taste in the o f matter dress ; an excellence , it Should be first observed , that is not an d confined to any one social class , that is common to wearers and makers of apparel ; who act and rea ct on each other with mutual instruction , as do intelligent actors and audience . This taste seem s t t inna e, and innate it doubtless is , at least to the ex ent that any sense or faculty exercised from generation to generation becomes an hereditary aptitude . The numerous public galleries , the yearly exhibition of French painting and sculpture, the finer of the public monuments , and the shop n n c o n windows in the streets , are so many free schools for the constant , ’ scious education of the Parisian s sense of form and color . They are

l . born appreciative, and become critica unawares Besides these , and 4 6 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION

more directly productive of practical results , there are special schools of e n design , with r ference to its applicatio to the useful arts , supported or n encouraged by government aid and voluntary subscri ptions , amo g n in stru which evening classes exert a conspicuous influe ce , gratuitous c tion being th ere given to artisans both in the theore tical principle s of beauty and their practical application . The result is that the worker

r n b ings not o ly expert manipulation and a practiced eye , but some capacity of original design and independe n t j udgment to the work in its hand , and crowns completion with that indescribable quality that

m ca chet de distin ctio gives the asterpiece its n . The French styl e of a rtiste applied to milliners and mantua - makers is h ardly an abuse of a n a i ma o f l gu g e ; their profess on , if not strictly within the do in fine art,

o n t . borders close its ou skirts Their chief and best encouragement , as m w w ust al ays be the case here art in any kind flourishes , is from an appreciating public ; at the present epoch they have a high and gener o u s i n m patron the person of the E press . This gracious lady is not only

r a finished connoisseur and zealous amateur , eve ready to duly reward o f o n the ingenious devices others, but more than one occasio n has con n tributed felicitous inventio s of her own , originating modes whose

w e s i n - imperial s ay has rul d willing ubjects all the ball rooms Of the world . Throughout the temperate zone the ou tbreak of new styl es i s a nearly simultaneous phenomenon . They are deliberated over a n d th eir publi m h cation , is resolved on , in sole n secret conclave held by the eads of

in certain houses . To their correspondents the principal foreign cities they forward drawings , illustrative colored plates , and specimen models , ea c an the in advance of the s son , so that they be issued at same open N e e ing day for example in e w York an d San Francisco . B sid s its first e value of rarity , which belongs to anything that requir s so much power n of invention , a bold and seasonable novelty promises very co siderable pecuniary profi t to its originator and first introducers . R — N EADY MADE CLOTHI G .

a a m en e m Of wearing pp rel for the variety was not v ry re arkable . n in Each ation , for the most part, produces its own supply this kind ; n I n a n d the competition is rather local tha international . the designs f b ut of stuf s , Paris held well its own , for other qualities the London goods were preferable . fi C th As the rst of these ities maintains unquestioned e first rank for ’ ’ o f women s attire , so the second for men s , conscious its right, would lau gh at the falsity of a report denying its supremacy . Each , however , — borrows something from the other the French gaining ra ther the most h by the exchange . For heavy garments especially, t ey of late years w i n follo the English shapes and names , omitting only a little of the

o a a o . rigin l amplitude , dding only a little native grace of f rm The two a e u c pitals supply the mod ls , which are adopted in other countries , s bject to the trifling modifications of local tastes and wants . H 4 CLOT ING A N D WOVEN FABRICS . 7

h - The principal ex ibitors of ready made clothing were French , Belgian ,

and Austrian . The contributions of the latter were noteworthy for

their meritorious combination of form and finish with cheapness . Among t the curiosities which, though not unknown in America , at racted much

observation here , was a seamless coat . It was first molded while the t w n material was in a pulpy state , and af er ard pressed into a consist e cy

t . W tha is said to be favorable to long wear For army purposes , and here u large quantities need to be f rnished in the briefest time , the process m ay have its uses ; but it is not sufficiently perfected as yet to be e f any t general advantage . Army clo hing was mostly of a very indifferent k m q uality . The defect was the more stri ing fro contrast with snugly

n n w u m n fitti g brillia t uniforms , of hich plentif l Speci ens were consta tly to n the h t al be see at Ex ibition , worn by the mili ary visitors of l nation s an d grades . Under the head of costuming should be placed a good part of the ’ “ C - m e hildrens dresses , multiform, many colored , and of ost exc llent ” . o u t i n a r fancy Their bright tints and pretty quaintness of , not pp o ria te a nd l v u f p to the fresh cheeks mobi e vi acity of yo th , o fered happy ’ solutions of th e grave problem h o w to distinguish the mother s attire ’ from her daughter s .

- u in In made p clothing for both sexes , France, as most other classes

of the Exposition , was the principal exhibitor . The committee of in admission this class , for France , collected some very important statistics , resu me n a brief of which may be i teresting .

- C i n The trade in ready made lothing, finding its central market Paris , e is quit extensive . The cheaper classes of articles are principally pro d uc ed in t the provinces . Several of the larger houses have heir chief

I n - - workshops the departments of the north , Pas de Calais , Gironde , Gard ,

&C . Much of this work, which was formerly done by hand, is now done i the by sewing machines, to an extent which is truly aston shing, greater o n part of the seams being sewed in this way . The cost of labor clothin g

- m en fif h . for amounts to about one t of the value of the goods The o h workmen employed by the tailors are of tw divisions, t ose who prepare

- o ut w . h and cut ork , and those who put it together Five sixt s of the w h ’ tailors ork at home, the other sixt being employed in the tailors

- - m work rooms . There are about one half as many wo en engaged in this i n trade Paris as there are men . Working either by the day or the m en ix 1 piece , the earn from three to S francs per day , though some a n expert h nds gain from eight to ten francs per day . The women ear m an m fro two fr c s to three francs fifty centimes per day , and a few fro o wn o ut five to six francs . The tailors generally do their cutting , but

he i - t dealers n ready made goods employ cutters . The exportation is generally done through the instrumentality of

a gents . There is great difficulty in estimating accurately the production ’ of men s garments ; but the tailors and C lothiers of Paris do business to

1 - A fra n c is e q u al t o n in ete en a n d three ten ths cen ts i n c o m . 4 8 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION . the amount of more than one hu ndred and fifty millions of francs per

e . annum , the xports amounting to about one tenth of the whole Great progress has been made I n the extent of the busin ess Since 1 8 55 . Many

i n g C the i m fore g g overnments look to French lothiers for equ p ent of their

e . troops , a branch of the business which has b en very active

R N R 1 THE TAILO S I PA IS .

At the end of the seventeenth century the journeyman tailor, boarded v ten by his master, earned about fifty cents a month , equi alent to francs of our present money . At the end of the eighteenth century the journey k hi —fi man wor ing on s own account earned one franc seventy ve centimes 1 825 m a day . In , under the restoration, he earned fro two to three francs 1 8 50 m a day ; in , under the e pire, from three to three and a half francs a 1 867 day; and in , from four to seven francs daily .

Such was the progress of wages for labor . Next the sewing machine came to the assistance of the working

C . lasses , and it was truly a Godsend to them in 1 854 Since the adoption of the sewing machine , wages have

. ec o n o increased at least thirty per cent As it lessens manual labor, thus mizin l g physical force , and makes more in ess time , it is undoubtedly a benefit to the workman . A man who is able to buy a machine gains from twenty to thirty per cent . , and a woman , from thirty to forty per cen t . on their wages . The tailor has marked advantages over the ' workmen of other trades e u if he is intellig nt, active , and ind strious , he can soon become master ; w th if orderly and economical , he can get ork by e piece ; and then gradually acquire a profitable custom . We have numberless examples of this in the many tailors that have made a name and a fortune from small beginnings . We will now proceed to give the advancement in this industry during 1 827 the last twenty years . In there were but three hundred and twen t - in n y two tailors Paris , and o ly one of them exported his manufactures ;

- n n oh . and they were made to peddle , and gave o credit to Fre made goods k At that period exportation was restricted , and goods of this ind were We not generally sent abroad . have nothing definite about their export

1 84 9 . ation till In that year, the export amounted to forty millions ; 1 66 w m l in 8 it as sixty illions . We have a ready mentioned that the n difleren c e cutters , or tailors proper, were injured by their i toward the n makers and wholesale ma ufacturers . The result of the latter business ,

1 8 4 9 -fi e 1 8 66 in , was twenty v millions ; in it was one hundred and nine millions . Two incidents have happened to aid tailors— commercial treaties have h n opened foreign commerce to t em , and railways have brought foreig m v a h custo ers to them in Paris . These isitors have carried f s ionable

1 t a ts t a n s ate f o h D o E t e e o o f M . u u h t ste usato o l . I o t e a t x r c r l d r m r p r A g y, V V f R pp r d u u nt e n at o n a J ry I r i l .

O PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

n most of the latter being young and residi g in France for two objects , t ” to learn the language and improve hemselves in workmanship .

E I L E CL R CA ROB S .

h m There was not ing in all this Exhibition ore complicated , and rich , e m and gorg ous with e broidery and colors and barbaric gold , than the ld clerical raiment . The O Gaul of ten centuries ago had t wo principal

. m u articles of clothing One of the , as it grew longer under Italian cult re, n m took the lo ger and more entionable name of pantaloon . The other wa s an d n ca su la th e ca sa a species of shirt, amed , diminutive of , a house ;

. ca su la it was his cottage , cot , or coat This same is , almost without ’ change, the modern French workman s blouse ; and from it came also u m n t u e f a ha ble . fi the m gnificent c s s The a ufac r of o cial church garments is a special a n d considerable business ; bu t beside the offerings of pro fessio n al fabricants , some of the most elaborate , and , in their kind , o n n beautiful specimens of ecclesiastical apparel exhibitio , were the

Of a . painstaking works love , wrought by the h nds of devout women

- READY MADE CLOTHING FOR WOMEN .

The trade in ready -made clothin g in France is chiefly confined to the “ ” ’ ma asi ns dc n ou vea utés - w g , or dry goods Shops , here ladies ready

m n I S . r ade clothi g a staple portion of the stock This is , of cou se, gen erally somewhat C heaper than that made to order and less elaborate

a m t in workm nship , but often rivals the latter for quality of a erial and ’ in elegance of forms . The most striking display of ladies goods the e a n th e Exhibition was of this s cond class , and formed exception to gen

a n . er l rule , bei g remarkable for thoroughness and finish of make We

5 E n o u t 8 C o . refer to the dresses exhibited by , who, in their most

C C - a charming patterns , were honored with the oper tion of the Empress

Eugenie . An embroidered trimming in pansies deserves particular Of a d n mention for its beautiful effects of harmony or brilliancy , ccor i g as it was applied to a taffetas Silk of a color corresponding or c o n tfa stin g n e with the leading tint of the flowers . The most oticeabl characteristics of th e singularly rich and varied Show of ball - dresses were the beauty w of the patterns , hich were mainly floral , lightness of tissues, and fullness of drapery . Even in their stillness they suggested floating; “ ” two in t e mazy motion . The finest h ir kind , whose loveliness excited e the jaculatory enthusiasm of female Spectators, came from the work

t d O i er G a elin . Shop , one might almost erm it stu io, of p g g It is one the i n its of most famous Paris , and graduates may be found in all m e quarters of the city . Its i portance may be gu ssed from the fact that it turns o u t no fewer than four hundred model dresses annually that serve as the studies from which nearly all the periodical fashio n - plates are prepared . The Compagnie Lyonnaise and the vast Magasin d u Louvre both made CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 5 1

large displays ; the first remarkable for extremely luxurious articles and

costly fabrics ; the latter, for its complete assortment of ornamental n articles of female attire . Three mag ificently embroidered mantles in

- w the cases of the last named house dre great attention , rather, however, u as c riosities of ingenious and painstaking labor, than for originality

or beauty of design . Equally elaborate and more eccentric was a white

. B o uillett en chenille satin dress , exposed by M , embroidered , with

immense peacock feathers , most exactly rendering the natural colors and form and texture to the eye ; a grand Spreading imperial robe

- worthy of a Juno for its wearer. An opera cloak in the same case was ’ composed of swan s down covered with butterfly wings . f The probabilities are that these eccentricities of manu acture, if they 0 1 I o vin ever come to human wear, will be borne on foreign , , at least, p i l n c a shoulders . With the Parisian the toilette is a composition i which S not only the material , hape, and tint of each item of apparel , but the n n i figure , features , and complexion of the i dividual are to be combi ed n

n m - subordi ation to that ad irable whole, a well dressed woman . She w gives her mind to it . She devoutly holds to that dogma laid do n by a serious preceptive writer o n the s ubj eCt : Un e toi lette est to ute n n e science and to that other maxim pleasantly amended and pieced out “ ’ ’ ” h in ur u e fr m f : L e s t le c est l om e et s to t la mme. o Buf on y , f Her apparel “ ” - u i bespeaks herself; it is the make p of her person . She dresses n character . ’ u h e For the manufact re of ladies clot ing Paris is the greatest c nter, and i n it is consumed an immense quantity of material of every grade of quality and price from the most ordinary printed cottons to velvet of the highest cost . For articles of summer wear the light fabrics of R u an d R m erin o es oubaix , Elbe f, Sedan , heims , French and Scotch ’ . m Of C cashmeres , are principally used For the trim ing ladies lothing

- E n pillow and machine made lace, also that of Paris and St . tien e , and m a n d m . f guipures gi ps fro Lyons , are employed The stu fs , cut or uncut, ’ are given to dressmakers , or ladies tailors , who employ from four to

w . forty work omen , besides those who work at home The articles are generally sewn together by hand, the trimmings being added by the n u u u se of sewi g machines . O ter clothing for the se of females is made almost entirely by women , and the sewing machines are generally m m en operated by wo en . The average earnings of at this trade are

five francs a day ; of women , about half that rate . A very considerable t l por ion of female wearing apparel is exported , principa ly to England, R N ussia, Holland , Belgium , Spain , Italy, Turkey, orth and South

America, and Australia . The articles chiefly exported are paletots , talmas , pelisses , mantelets , embroidered shawls , scarfs , and j ackets . ’ C l o th I n Dresses , hoods , and children s g also enter into the export trade . These articles are furnished to the Small provincial linen drapers and

- commission merchants , while the principal linen drapers in Paris and the provinces generall y bu y the patterns and have th e articles made up R E xP I 52 PARIS UNIVE SAL OS I T ON .

for themselves . The value of these articles produced annually in all

France is estimated at one hundred millions of francs , or nearly twenty

l n - millions of dol ars in our coi . Five sixths of the whole are used in

- France, the exports being only one sixth .

TH E R ’ R IN R 1 SEAMST ESSE S A T PA IS . In estimating the progress of the seamstresses’art by their number at in d u rI i st e . d fferent periods , it has not advanced like some other S Thus , 1 780 1 849 in , the independent seamstresses numbered two thousand ; in ,

h fiv 1 8 67 n . e t ey were two thousand hundred ; and in , o ly four thousand 1 8 60 We do not think their number has sensibly increased Since , but the business , then estimated at nineteen millions of francs , has more than doubled . The fourteen thousand sewing girls employed by the four thou

mi l n sand mistresses, with a business of forty l ions, earn from two and o e half to three francs a day . The trade in ready -made clothing for women did not actually begin m i 1 8 45 . t ll Before that time a few houses ade crispins, Spencers , and mantelets ; but as they were sold at retail by a few fancy stores , or were ' sent abroad or into the country as models , they did not constit ute a branch of commerce . Since our commercial treaties have opened the i world to us , the industry has continued to increase unt l it has become r an important branch of o u commerce . ’ Articles of women s dress were once excluded from exhibition ; but,

1 8 67 . in , the industry was elegantly represented at the Exposition We j udge of this by the number of distin guished persons that crowd ed round

h w- the S o cases , by the considerable business produced by the models a n e xposed , and by the pprobation of k owing persons , that declared no ’ i n country would compete with France the line of women s garments . ’ a C l othin we AS no other n tion exhibited samples of women s g , must con m fine our judg ent to the French articles , regretting, however, that we have no foreign samples for sake of comparison . 1 8 4 6 ’ After , many establishments for the Special manufacture of women s clothing were instituted ; one of them does busi n ess to the amount l a of three mi lions of francs annually , and sever l others manufacture more ’ than one million s worth per annum . Besides these many fancy stores ’ have special departments for the sale of women s garments, and do a in very good bu siness that line . Many ready - made dresses are sent abroad as samp les to all parts of

f - the world to avoid the prohibitory tarif on ready made clothing, which exists in many countries ; in Spain , for example . In Portugal our ready ha made clothing s to pay a duty of eighty per cent . ; and in many other

- f five . countries a duty of fi ty or seventy per cent If the government woul d revise our commercial treaties and open foreign countries to our fabrics , the business in Paris would take a new

1 n e Du sato o f h t a t t a s at f o the e o t of M . t e n te n at o n a ur l Ex r c r l d r m r p r y, I r i l J y, Vo . I V e o s o f the Jury R p rt . CLOTHING AN D WOVEN FABRICS .

’ fif - fi t v flight upwards . The business of women s C lothing amounted to y e

- m 1 8 67 fi . illions of francs in the pay was twenty ve or thirty per cent , and the number of seamstresses employed was about seventeen thousand . In the general statistics of the Paris Chamber Of Comm erce for 1 8 60 this business was estimated at twenty - seven millions seven hundred and

“ - fiv S e ixty thousand, and we may j ustly reckon it at double for the year 1 8 67 this , added to the forty millions done by seamstresses , will make

-fi ve the entire business amount to ninety millions of francs per year .

We cannot estimate the quantity of material used by dressmakers , its u ff fineness and value ; beca se the variety of stu s is so great, and they C n hange the fashio so often , certainly the quantity used cannot be reckoned with justness . Every industry that is controlled by fashion is so changeable that the in material used it escapes all analysis , and cannot be correctly esti mated . ffi We think we have Shown that we were right in a rming that the clothing industry is the most extensive industry in the world . In fact , is there a single business that can compare with the figures we have given ,

w -fi ve and hich employs seventy thousand working men and women , one twentieth of the population of Paris , at salaries amounting to more than eighty millions in the aggregate ! If the question be studied in a family

' and point of View, with humanitarian moral considerations , the couse u en n d q ces a benefits of the industry are incalculable . The married n n woma fi ds a remunerative labor in making clothes , a labor she can carry on at home , and which helps the housekeeping ; the young girl can h in work at ome , the business, or in a shop with other girls , at good wages , i s in men and not obliged to work large manufactories , where crowds of a n d n m and women , old young, ofte produce lamentable and i moral consequences . in l If the question be examined an economical ight , from an indus m trial point of Vi ew , we are instantly struck with the i mense quantity of material used in the business , which in Paris alone amounts to one

r . hund ed and fifty millions , forty millions of which are sent abroad B u t h wn for this business , w ich makes the fashions of Paris kno all l over the wor d, our material , not better than that of other nations ,

- would not have such extensive consumption . The clothes making busi i n ness, fact, is the main support of our manufacture of tissues , and is certainly the principal cause of the prosperity of o ur grand industrial establishments .

These consequences are due to the causes we have enumerated , as well as to the m en who have taken such a large part in the manufacture of t articles of clothing for both sexes . If we take as a basis the for y mill ions of tissues exported by clothing establishments , and the labor required to work up the raw material , we must give credit to the cloth i ng business for much of our prosperity . 54 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

A R N N N H TS FO ME A D WOME .

a The word hat, ccording to etymology and the standard dictionaries “ fi ma de o c a ri o us ma teria ls a n d wo rn signi es a covering for the head f

women ‘ e o r orn a by men or , for defending the head from rain or h at or f ” — in men t. We have italicised the only part and proportion to the sub — j ect it is a large On e of the definition applicable to the articles that were expose d under the title of hats for women . There was a large collection

e of th m , marvellous for diversity of material and form and devices of — “ littleness capricious snips of things pricked in with the humor of ” h forty fancies . They had their fantastic charm wit al , though nothing ’ S a about them was O astonishing to mere man s mind, seeing their diminutiveness and apparent frailty , as to learn what heavy prices they bore . Some were made of ivory and pearl , others of leather . There m were so e composed entirely of feathers , others of paper , yet other fragil l ties of glass .

I n m u the anufact re of hats for men Paris excels London for lightness, but not durability . Cork enters largely into the composition of the finest qualities , securing both lightness and imperviousness to rain . Much ingenious machinery is u sed for preparing the cork and cutting it into the thinnest of leaves . In the Italian section was a cork hat made up

. Of e of two thousand one hundred pieces Felt hats, which ther is a r in large manufactu e France mainly for exportation , were exposed in m in profusion . They are ade by molding and pressure the same man n r n Of e as the seamless coat Spoke above . The whole process was seen in operation in the machinery department , where the raw material was transformed in a few minutes to the finished hat . In the same depart A l ment, boot and shoe making machinery from exandria was working l rapidly and wel . There were several varieties of straw hats from

South America ; very cheap and serviceable articles in like kind , such as are commonly worn by sailors and fishermen from Malta ; others sun made of the fibre of a plant , very strong and impervious to , wind , the f and rain , from Cape of Good Hope . Besides elts , Italy sent some exceedingly fine Specimens of straw from Leghorn and other places ; and England presented a handsome Show of chip hats .

The most picturesque caps , embroidered with gold , were from the u Eastern countries . A stria excelled in red cloth tasselled caps . The n plai est came from England, the cheapest and most serviceable from

Hungary .

F MANUFACTURE O HATS F OR MEN .

The centers of the hat trade in France are Paris, Marseilles , Lyons,

Aix , Toulouse, Bordeaux, and some other southern towns . The mate rials most used in the manufacture are the Skins of the beaver and

n muskrat , imported from Ca ada, that of the Goudin rat, from South an d fur i two America, hare rabbit , and various k nds of wool . There are CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 55

n : distinct divisions of the manufacture , amely that of the soft and firm

felt hats , and that of silk hats . Workmen , whose special business it is to u m n u a c t the hair fro the Ski s , f rnish the m kers with their raw materials .

The manufacture of French hats consists of several distinct processes .

’ The fur is first beaten either by hand or machine . A felt bag twice the u size of the hat is thus prod ced , which is then filled by hand or by a ma

chine constructed specially for this purpose . The hat is now scraped fi I o W th with a knife , to take the long hairs , rubbed pumice stone , an d

f . N stif ened , or not , as the case may require ext come the processes of

dyeing, blocking into form , binding, and the insertion of the head linin g

and leather . m I A different system prevails for Silk hats . First the for S made of

ifin d l . st e e l the fabric preferred , with gum she ac A kind of silk plush is made to adhere to the exterior of this form and wi thin is inserted m , aterial suited for a lining . Many silk hats are made with the adhesive

u . linings , in which case the interior s rface becomes part of the solid shell

The skilled workmen command high wages , comparatively get ting as

high as ten francs per day . The average, however, is between forty an d

fifty francs a week . The work is done by the piece , under the supervision

of foremen chosen from among the best workmen . The latter earn from r two thousand to three thousand francs pe year . Women in this trade

are paid from eighteen to twenty francs per week . Most of the operatives work in the factories . French hats are exported to nearly all parts of

n -fi a d w ve the world , sold from three or four francs to t enty or thirty . t Opera ha s , made with compressible Spring sides , are exported in con id rabl r s e e quantities . The manufactu e amounts to about five millions i l of dollars estimat ng on the go d basis , the exports being about twelve

- million francs . Great improvements in hat making machinery are con stan tl y coming into use . Pretty much the same materials continue to be m an u fac used, but the wages of workmen have increased . The great turers m now ake and finish completely their goods , and practically the hatter whose name is in the crown is only a n agent between the pro d u cer and consumer . Twenty millions of francs’ worth of caps are also made per year i n

France , the sewin g and embroidery being in a great measure done by The ke i machinery ; not many of these are exported . p , which has since 1 848 o been introduced int the army, the public schools , and administra a n d c on tions , constitutes quite a proportion of the manufacture, a sidera bl e u -o f n mber Greek or Fez caps are made , either knit or felted ; the Orlean s principal places for the manufacture of these being Paris , R ueil , Condom , and Chalons, and many of them are exported .

BOOTS AND SHOES .

Boots and shoes were exhibited in great abundance by many n ations . n in C o N ew Amo g them a case the American section , from Burt 85 . , of 56 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

York , bore favorable comparison with the best of foreign make . The present style of French boots is , like Achilles , Open to attack in the n at heel , which is too high and brought so far forward as to change the w o n ural point of , support, thro the weight of the body too heavily the toes and un steady the pose . It makes the foot look small er from the front , and pitches the body Slightly forward .

THE T A N D H E F TURE I F E BOO S O MANU AC N RANC . Many ingenious improvements in m achinery for this manufacture have l — been made. The business is divisible into three c asses sewed boots e and shoes , those pegged or nailed , and those fast ned by screws . Most th e N of French sewed boots and Shoes are made in Paris , antes, Mar

‘ in RO seilles, Bordeaux , and Foug eres ; pegged ones Paris , Liancourt, w mans , Blois , and Angers ; those made with scre s are only produced in

Paris . Most of the findings and trimmings of boots and Shoes of the

n Fre ch manufacture are made in France . The workmen are divided Of into three classes, the foremen , receivers, and cutters . Half the opera tives are women , who receive about half the rate of wages paid to the men ,

- the men being paid about four francs per day . The ready made trade is carried on by commercial travelers who sell to the provincial dealers . for Th Commission merchants buy exportation . e average price of good boots and shoes is sixteen francs for those worn by men , eight francs ’ fo ’ m s for women s, and six francs r children s . The ore common sort men are o n for sold an average at eight francs , those for women at five

C i . francs , and those for hildren at three francs a pa r These produc tions of the French trade are exported principally to North and South

n 8t c . America, East and West I dies , England, Italy , Paris alone pro duces boots and shoes to an amount of one hundred mil lion francs ; the provinces also contribute largely to this trade , and about forty million 1 8 55 francs worth are exported . Since , the use of sewing machines for m n sewing together the upper leathers has beco e very ge eral .

i N U R N N I TE D TA TE MA FACTU E OF CLOTHI G I THE UN S S .

In the earlier days of this republic most of the clothing used , except n amo g persons of wealth , was of household or strictly domestic origin . Great simplicity of dress was a requirement of the austere ideas of pro in priety prevailing those days , and the colonial codes , many of them , t contain statutory restrictions on the subjec , the Violations of which were punished by penalties of various degrees of severity . The first ful ling mill in America was erected about the year 1 643 R e t 1 71 3 at owley , in Massachusetts ; y , in the year it is recorded that e d o th re was but one clothier in Connecticut , who could little more than Of full a portion the homespun made, much of which was worn unshorn and undressed . The wealthier classes in the colonial period imported much of their clothing material and all o f the fin er cloths from England . In the larger

E 58 PARIS UNIVERSAL XPOSITION . of the introduction of the sewin g machine that the many small shops have been to a great extent superseded by the large whol esal e establish ments . This change is most forcibly illustrated by the fact that, from 1 8 60 a 1 8 50 to , the number of est blishments was reduced eleven per cent .

- and the number of hands increased two and four tenths per cent . only, yet the capital invested in the business increased nearly one hundred per cent . , and the aggregate value of the product five and one half per cent . — R R HEAD D ESSES FO LADI ES .

The head - dress is among the most conspicuous of the articles which ’ determine the style or fashionable character of a lady s appearance ; an d it is in Paris , chiefly , that the novelties of this department are originated . u The materials sed in the manufacture of bonnets and caps , such as a ff buckr m , whalebone , wire , various stu s , flowers and lace , are obtained from Special manufacturers . There is no fixed method of preparing m l articles of il inery . It is altogether a matter of taste and ingenuity . The workmanship forms only a small item in the value . The average of wages of working milliners is two and a h alf francs per diem . Nearly all the milliners sell direct to the purchaser . Some firms , however, make u an d - p articles Specially for exportation , these alone employ under milli fo r n ners , who receive the necessary materials a certain umber of bonnets

- and head dresses , and prepare the work by arranging and fastening the

- various stuffs u pon the ready made shapes which they furnish . The ribbons and flowers are always added by the mil liner herself. It is difficult to estimate the exact value of millinery annually produced in l ’ France ; but it must be considerab e, as the Parisian milliners returns n n a amount to nearly twenty millio s of fra cs, or nearly four million doll rs

- . t in gold About one tenth of this is expor ed, chiefly to America, d Englan , Spain , Belgium , Holland , Germany, Prussia, and to the French and English colonies .

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS .

— — The annual French chiefly Parisian production of artificial flowers ,

h - of whic about three fourths are exported, amounts in value to eighteen ’ million francs . The display of them , in what may be styled the ladies department of the Exhibition , was one of its most attractive features . — in The fidelity to nature of these counterfeit presentments leaf, an d

in an d blossom , and pistil , exquisite fineness of line , tenderest shade in — d ec e gradation of color, to the very dew glistening on the petals is so p tive that it is only by an appeal from the eye to the sense of smell that c an nature sustain her prior claim . The counterfeit representatives of every clime in this international floral display vied i n hue and form with their living originals in the park and horticultural annex . For certain of purposes of ornamentation they are , indeed , superior to the growth l the garden . They do not droop and fade as the gaiety of the ba l room CL OTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 59

rises , nor by their perfume weigh the heated atmosphere with an addi i n al t o sickly element . The production of artificial flowers may be named among the artistic S he specialties of Paris, in which stands without a rival . The materials which it consumes are various and delicate ; for the leaves and blossoms , n an so ok n jaconet , , cambric , muslin , velvet , crape, sati , Silk , French b cam ric, feathers , paper, an d wax are made use of ; and for the stems , l flo ss - berries , and fruits , wire , si k , cotton , silk , paper, starch , gum, gela tine, wax , paste, chenille , quills , whalebone , gauze, chopped wool , and i glass balls . For mounting the flowers , s lk, paper, gauze, and iron and um brass are required . The workmen always use the same instr ents ,

ff &c . go ering irons , stamps , The galvanoplastic process is sometimes

u - employed . The cost of workmanship amounts to abo t four tenths of m the value of the productions , and the materials e ployed to about three

- t tenths . The remaining three tenths represen the profit of the producer . m ff This manufacture is divided into a great any di erent branches .

For the preparation of the colors there are special workshops . The work ’ - is generall y carried on at the homes of the work people . This trade . - i l employs fifteen thousand persons , nine tenths being women and g r s .

n cs -fi The men earn about four francs a day , the wome two fran twenty ve n centimes . The mou ting and sale of flowers is carried on for the most

- all n part in handsome shops and show rooms, where ki ds of flowers are ff generally sold as well as the di erent sorts of ornamental feathers . Three fourths of the entire manufacture are exported through the medi um of m co mission agents . The value of the trade is about fifteen million

. E n n francs per annum The flowers are exported to America, gla d ,

R . Belgium , ussia, and Germany

C H A P TE R I V .

LA ES FAN S G LOVE S E T C . C , , ,

— TH E MANUFAC TURE OF RARE A N D C OSTLY L AC E B Y H A ND NOTIC ES OF SPEC I A LLY IN I X B OF A C — M C I E - C — C TEREST NG E HI ITIONS L E A H N MADE LA ES WAGES, ONDITIONS,

— - — AND DI VI SIONS OF LABOR EDUC ATION OF LAC E MA KE Rs TH E BRITISH ARTISA NS — — — UPON LAC E MANUFAC TURE OF LAC E IN VARIOUS C OUNTRIES EMBROIDERY MA N UF A C TURE OF — M N C OF VE I N A N C A A N D FANS A UFA TURE GLO S FR E , ENGL ND, OTHER I — B A N D B C C C . OUNTR ES ELASTI TISSUES, SUSPENDERS, ELTS, GARTERS, RA ELETS

R NC OF THE P I IPAL DISPLAYS LACE . The manufacture of lace of the most rare and costly descriptions is ‘ in u performed by hand labor, the designs be g f rnished by artists who possess a high degree of skill — the result of long - continued studies and um fi practice under circ stances most favorable to the attainment of pro n cie cy in the specialty of producing designs adapted to this manufacture . The point laces of Alencon and that of Brussels are so intricate and the manipul ations so delicate and difficult that it is necessary to give a life -long trainin g to the operators to secure excellency in each distinct

C haracteristic of fabrication . The art of lace -making has been carried to such perfection that a suf ficien t n n indicatio of light and Shade can be i troduced to give an approx im ation even in such transparent tissues as the Brussels and the Alen ff con point to the relief e ects attained in engraving . The Specimens of Alencon point and other French lace at the E xpo si tion were carefully selected and very beautiful in design and workman

ship . The black lace of Bayeux and Calvados is the most imp ortant f and extensively manu actured in France . t One of the leading firms in the produc ion of this lace is Messrs . ’ ur d A len on Lefeb e, who exhibited a dress of point c , combining the high the est qualities of the art, price of which was in gold . This n two flo un c es i n dress , consisti g of and trimm gs, took the labor of forty

women for two years to produce it . The same firm had also a superb poin t or half- Shawl of black lace ; the design consisted of a large central bouquet of roses perfectly shaded and standing out as it were from the

. n ground This central cluster was surrou ded by a border of roses , upon

which equal skill was displayed . The price was a trifle less than two in thousand dollars gold .

A n i r other example by the same exhibitors was a br dal veil , the g oun d i of which was needle point, the flowers appl cation made at Ghent , and in in d’A l n the border the style of Venice point, while figures point e co n

formed part of this rich and harmonious composite . The lace of Malines hli or Mec n lace, as well as the ancient rose or Venice point in high re ~ l S n th ief, were how by e same house . 2 I 6 PAR S UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

Among the many admirable specimens of black Bayeux laces were the

- w . : h follo ing, by Messrs Verde Delisle a point ornamented wit beauti flo u n c fully shaded flower forms , a parasol of finest quality , and a e of

d . e fl u n ferns and flowers , and a ress pattern They also display d a o c e of ’A l en o n point d c , style of Louis XV, the flowers in medallions ; a dress of

Brussels mixed points , and some specimens of Cluny guipure , and some

Verdé - . . n altar cloths . Messrs Lefebure and Messrs Delisle enj oy an e vi

able distinction for superiority in the design and quality of their fabrics . Among the other notable specimens in the French section were a very elegant tunic of white lace made partly i n Brussels and partly at flo u n c e Mirecourt ; a black lace of exquisite fineness of texture , a black l flo u n c e lace paraso , a Bayeux in roses, handkerchiefs bordered with fil N d u Venice point and et from the Convent of otre Dame Puy, black silk guipure shawls and laces printed in colors or embroidered with

a . pe rls , from Auvergne l b in f The Be gian section , too , presented an exhi ition of laces hardly e rior to those of similar grades in the French ; the Dro mmen t varieties a ’ i being Brussels , point l aigu lle , plat , application , Grammont and “ ” ri kx Mechlin . A dress of point gaze exhibited by H o o c was valued at

The principal manufacture of lace in Belgium is that of the Val en cien

n es . a variety It is made throughout East and West Fl nders , the finest

t . quali ies being Ypres , West Flanders Grammont , West Flanders , is the seat of an extensive manufacture Of black lace in which considerable

improvements have been made . There was a creditable display of shawls of this lace by the collective

n . v exhibitors of Grammo t These are not so carefully worked , howe er, as the Bayeux laces of the same class . Prussia and the German states exhibited only some needl e poin t

flo u n c es i m N . of Berlin edg ngs fro urtingen Austria , a point impe

. rial and the coarser laces of Bohemia . Spain , the lace of Barcelona

R . Sweden , the torchon lace of the peasantry . ussia, that of Helsingfors

a - a a Italy, the bl ck and white pillow m de l ces of Genoa and imitations of

a . R Old . French l ces ome, a remarkable specimen of Venetian point

r R e . Turkey , white Silk crochet lace from Smy na and the Island of hod s n Malta , her traditional black and white guipures . Engla d , Devonshire

- n u . lace , Honito , Cluny , and needle made laces . Ireland , g ipure Central and South America are represented to a very limited extent in laces

U . characteristic of Paraguay, ruguay , Chili , Venezuela and Brazil

N E T A N D MACHINE LACE . Imitations of some of the standard laces have been successfully made h by mac inery of ingenious construction , chiefly at Calais and Amiens a n d in France , N ottingham in England . The French produce in this

e way imitations of Valenciennes , Cluny, colored lac s , white and black in t blondes, especially excelling white blondes , which are to a grea degree

- taking the place of the hand made lace of the same type . CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 63

n n embro id Amiens produces the finest llama a d yak Shawls . Plai and l ered silk tul es are made chiefly at Lyons . Brussels net made by machinery now used as a ground for laces has

u h w- s perseded t e pillo made ground , at an immense saving of labor and

expense and giving equally satisfactory and artistic results .

W GE DITI A N D DI I I F O . A S , CON ONS , V S ONS LABOR

in There are Calais and St . Pierre seven hundred and eighty machines , the best of which were built in Nottingham and its vicinity . They are

- all in factories worked by steam power, running all hours , commencing ’ work from six to seven o clock o n Monday morning, continuing until ten ’ O clock on Saturday evening ; in some establishments working up to ’ ten and twelve O clock on S unday morning .

A great deal of liberty is allowed the workmen for social intercourse, and a large amount of affability and familiarity exists between employers

and employed in the various workshops . There are two men at each machine taking alternate Shifts or turns

m. m 6 7 . in working, one com encing on Monday , from to a , continuing m 9 m 9 . . 1 un til a . . , and the other coming on at a , and working until m 6 m 1 . . . . p . . , the first coming back at p , remaining until p m The one

6 In . l 2 m o f 1 . In . . . . leaving f at p returns at p and works unti a , and so h h t w k on throug t e ee . The law in France is that a week’s notice shall be given and taken by the employed ; the man , if these conditions have been fairly complied i receivin m li vret in w th , g what is ter ed his , which is described his per sonal appearance, answering the purpose of a passport to any part of livret France . If the employer refuse to give the he is liable to a fine of fifty francs . If the workman leaves in debt it is inserted in his

" lic ret a n (1 - , his next employer, according to law, can stop one fourth of his earnings for the purpose of refunding the debt to his former m a ster .

In the lace trade terms are used to denote the width of machines , such “ as quarters any number of inches a machine is in width upon being v b di ided y nine inches (a quarter of a yard , ! gives the number of quar “ ” n ters . Gauges are counted by the umber of points or combs contained

- in an inch . All gauges are calculated from the ten point standard . “ ” The workmen are paid by the rack , consisting of one thousand nine h an d undred twenty motions of the machine .

D F - E UCATION O LACE MAKERS .

As a means of artistic education , the perfect freedom of access to the e r picture galleries appears to be taken gr at advantage of, and fully app e ‘ ciated v in by the people ; as upon our isit to the Louvre , one gallery ' o f bo th alone , we witnessed fifteen persons , old and young sexes , copying the paintings of the great masters . The beautiful gardens are another source of attraction and instruction to the people . The intimate and 64 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

n social freedom we noticed existi g between the employer and employed,

- is another source of great improvement to the work people .

THE BRITISH ARTISANS UPON LACE .

In the reports by the British artisans there is one upon lace by Edward

Smith , Joseph Bird , and George Dexter, delegates recommended by N is the ottingham Chamber of Commerce, from which the following extracted “ ” “ n l aCe m Believing in its importa ce , (the anufacture , ! we have endeavored to the best of our ability to ascertain the quality of work turned out by different nations ; influences affecting the character of the work and trade generally, such as cost of material , wages, conditions and divisions of labor, education , habits of life , amusement, and trade associations . “ m The first class of goods we inspected was the French depart ent,

33 . Group IV, Class “ The hand -made laces are of surpassing beauty ; the intricacy of and perfect following out of the leaves and flowers of various plants introduced into the designs are very delicate and truthful . We are of opinion that the carrying out of the design in the hand - made lace must have an abiding and elevating power upon the minds of the females engaged in m this branch of industry , i planting a taste for the beautiful that no doubt i re n n descends to their ch ld , wide ing and Spreading in its character and all influencing who may come in conta ct with them . “ The total number of lace m akers is estimated at two hundred thousan d

n - fi a ve women and girls . They gain on an aver ge one fra c twenty cen times per day ; some who are particularly skillful and industrious earn as ’ -m much as three francs fifty centimes for ten hours hard work . Lace akers are for the most part peasant women , who all , without exception , work at their own homes , often quitting their lace pillows and babes to attend to household duties or to work in the fields ; lace - making has the advantage of o n bein g carried at home, and , therefore , of not depriving agriculture of — in U too many able hands . French lace is sold i n all markets the nited R m a States , the Brazils , ussia, Ger any, Italy , Great Britain , the E st and f the West Indies . Paris is the principal center O consumption , the young females wearing a very tasteful description of head - dress composed of all kinds of lace . “ The machine -made laces are of a very high character both as regards quality of material and design . It is impossible to carry out the design to perfection unless a sufficient number of motions of the machine is gon e through so as to give an opportunity for the figuring threads to lay in the work in that smooth and rounded form , successfully tracing the

- design upon the lace as upon paper . This is pre eminently the feature of

- the French machine made laces . All the articles from the broadest to the narrowest widths exhibit the same beauty of construction . The laces u exhibited consist principally of blondes , black laces, edgings, guip res,

6 6 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

m . Spain ; and it is confined chiefly to narrow lace for tri ming The work of the Portuguese Operatives is good , solid, and cheap ; but the designs are Old and are wanting in taste ; with proper direction they coul d make as good lace as is found in Puy, and might rival that part of our country i n its production .

GERMANY .

m Spindle lace , which is made all over Ger any, even in Denmark and

n S axo n . e Bohemia , is know in commerce as lace The principal c nters u of its prod ction are Annaberg, Dresden , Eibenstock , Carlsbad , and f k m Tondern . The dif erent inds of German lace are generally com on looking and of inferior quality ; the designs are old and ugly , unless copied from French designs ; and the workmanship is far inferior to

in . any of ours , fact, is not as good as that of Auvergne But the Saxon lace has one advantage over ours, that of price ; the cost of making it in the Erzgebirge and Vogtland is much less than in France . In this u s very important point of View, the Saxon lace beats in the markets of

America and Russia .

GREAT BRITAIN .

varities U K : Three of lace are made in the nited ingdom Irish lace ,

Buckingham lace , an d Honiton lace . n Irish lace is like nothing in France or a ywhere else ; it is cheap , and the great number of wom en who work it do not get so much for it as f our Operatives . The dif erent kinds of Irish lace partake of the nature

e of embroid ry , fringe , crochet work , Spindle and needle lace ; they are sold only in England and America ; the use of them has decreased in late years . The Buckingham lace of England is chiefly made in the counties of N orthampton , Bedford , Oxford , and Buckingham . The English lace l f l makers are ski l u , they work with Silk or thread and produce an article

. 1 8 62 the n o w of excellent quality In business prospered , but it is under going a crisis that may prove fatal to it . It sent nothing to the Expo sitiou this year ; the reason of this decline is the competition of Caen i n n d a . edging insertion , and of Grammont for larger pieces Honiton lace has a peculiar and characteristic quality ; it is made in h h Devonshire , resembles w ite Spindle gimp , wit fine embroidered e reli f; some large pieces excel all other lace in elegance , perfection , and m value . The sa ples of Honiton , exhibited by Hayward of London , were a particularly admired ; they united be uty of workmanship , grace of design , fineness of material , and harmony of particulars . It is so much in r vogue that it has become the cou t etiquette of England to wear it , n d ui a . being disting shed for finish , brilliancy , freshness The guipure a n d application of Belgium are so dark they coul d not be used if not bleached in a solution of powdered carbonate of lead . This process is a very injurious to the health of the ble chers , and for that reason the CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS . 6 7

a - E nglish have ab ndoned it, and give premiums to the lace makers that r will deliver their work in a clean and natu al state . This Honiton lace is the best in England ; it is even superior to the best that is made in

France or Belgium . Lace is also made in some of the English colonies k i the best known is the thread and sil guipure of Malta ; t is well made , of excellent quality , and is reasonable in price .

BELGIU M.

N c m ext to Fran e , Belgiu gives employment to the largest number of

- lace makers the number is said to be over one hundred thousand, dis t rsed . pe over the provinces of Hainau , Flanders , and Brabant They fi : ve produce kinds of lace Valenciennes, Mechlin , Grammont , Brussels , n and Fla ders guipure . E IE E n n n VAL NC NN S is the best ; it is exte sively k ow , much sought for , and appreciated for its strength , lightness , and elegance . The business l done in this lace amounts to twenty mi lions of francs a year . It has been vainly attempted to produce this lace in other countries , but Belgium m enjoys the monopoly for its anufacture, and furnishes it to the world . r are n The four principal centers of manufactu e Ypres , Ghe t , Bruges ,

C o u rtra . and y The Valenciennes of Ypres , called square point , is the most esteemed . The execution of this elegant tissue seemed to have in reached perfection long ago , and no improvement could be made it ; et Y in y the rich collection of Valenciennes from the town of pres , varied in in design , and clear meshes, demonstrate an incontestable superiority the skill of the operati ves and the cleverness of their employers . E H I E M C L N LAC was much in vogue a few years ago , it is a fine , light, f o r n elegant lace, to be had a reasonable price ; but it is out of fashio n o w , and very little is made . GRAMMONT LACE has undergone a change ; twenty years ago it Was n w made entirely of white thread ; o black silk is used for it . Its manu

fi- facture has increased ve fold since 1 855 thi s is due to its good quality and low price . The meshes are not so close as in France ; the difficulties of making it are so utilized a s to substitute choice designs and intelligent combinations of execution , and thus furnish showy pieces at a lower

w . price than any here else Much is sent to America, Germany , England , and R ussia . It certainly cannot compare with our elegant productions ff ma . of Bayeux, but it y O er a formidable competition BRUSSELS LACE — The lace factories of Brussels rival all the others

u . : in Belgi m Two kind of laces are chiefly made there Single flowers, m ade by pin or needle, and intended to be applied on tulle, and gauze point, called Venice point . Application on tulle improves every day, yet n it is strange its production does not increase, and we can give no reaso for it . Gauze point, however, made a splendid Show at the Exposition ,

. W it was rich , regular, clear, and of tasteful design e must mention the a on Destelber he establishment of Lefebure Son , of P ris , carried at g , where application flowers are worked, as well as gauze point . This model 6 8 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

h a establishment unites the excellencies of t e spindle and needle l ce work , it sends n ew designs to the Paris market, that are artistically got up and rendered with perfect taste . — E G IP E . l l FL AND RS U UR Other kinds of ace are made in Be gium , but they belong to the preceding categories . However, we owe a Special l mention to white guipure made with a shuttle , ca led Flanders guipure . This lace is made at Bruges and i n the neighborhood ; it is an excellent imitation Of the seventeenth century guipure ; rich and loaded with but designs , it is very light and elegant . It is like Honiton ; it is not so fine ; the meshes are not so small , yet it is furnished at a reasonable price . It is one of the prettiest productions of the lace industry .

- LACE MAK ING IN FRANCE .

There are six varieties of lace made in France : Alencon po in t ; Lille e and Arras lace ; Bailleul lace ; Chantilly , Caen , and Bayeux lac ; Mire t cour lace ; and Puy lace . ’ -Th oi n t d A len on A L E N ON . e g French point lace , called p c , is made at Alencon and Bayeux ; it is the only kind Of French lace that is made ea a entirely with a needle ; it has r ched an incomp rable perfection , and certain pieces are real obj ects of art . This is the most sumptuous of

- all laces , it has a strength that defies time and the washer women , for that f u o a ce v reason it merits the surname O q een f l s. E er since the time of m an u fa c Colbert, Alencon and Argentan have been the center of this t 1 8 55 u ure ; but in , Auguste Lefebure , one of our best man facturers , t be e started a fac ory for it at Bayeux, where modifi d and improved the y n style so as to give it a desirable peculiarit . We have ever seen any thing to equal the Alencon lace from Bayeux , exhibited at the late

Exposition . LILLE A N D ARE AS — The manufactories of Lille and Arras formerly produced many blonde laces , on a clear ground , greatly esteemed for e th ir freshness , lightness and good quality . When fashion no longer e favor d that style of lace , the manufacture diminished sensibly . — I E . A t l a n d th e BA LL UL Bail eul in neighborhood , they weave a kind Val en cien n fin e e of less and clear than that of Ypres , but which is greatly e esteemed for its whiten ss , its solidity and its cheapness .

E A N D E — - l r CHANTILLY, BAY UX , CA N . The dark c Oo ed laces of these

e three places are identical ; they are chiefly composed of large piec s , as flOI m c es m h Shawls , robes , , and veils , ade of strips and patc es admirably joined together by a peculiar stitch . The making of white silk blonde having been abandoned , on account of machine rivalry, attention has been turned to the manufacture of black laces , which has reached a l great degree of perfection . The lace of Ca vados and Chantilly cannot be surpassed . Caen is celebrated for its varieties of black lace ; it is in fact the commercial product of the place ; much of it is exported . In 1 8 55 Bayeux i gained the first prize for lace, and it st ll retains its merited reputation F CLOTHING AND WOVEN ABRICS . 6 9

- . fin m in that line It produces the best large pieces of extra e eshes and

rich designs , such as are sought after by the opulent classes .

Some years ago Mr . Schneider, president of the legislative body,

wishing to give employment to the wives and daughters of his operatives , c re put up la e factories at Creusot , where elegant point lace is made,

sembling that of Chantilly and Bayeux . — MIRECOURT . The factory at Mirecourt has a reputation for the t novelty , variety, and good quali y of its laces ; the operatives there are in a n t n very skillful their work ; under intelligen directio , they follow and n ew the freaks of fashion , invent patterns that are instantly e n m accepted by customers and soon imitated by for ig anufactur ers . It is certainly the most active and inventive lace - making place we know ; being a kind of leader to all rivals . The articles exhibited were varied

n e w u and of style , and of course much admired, partic larly a bed spread ,

a robe , and a chasuble in relief guipure . m G an dillo t Four or five years ago Mada , a woman of taste , tried to get the Operatives of Mireco un t to revive old abandoned fashions ; she d an d a rt ui ures d finally succee ed , her g p were imme iately accepted , and n ew an d h C lun w gave origin to a c eaper style, called y lace, hich had n wonderful success greatly be efiting French manufactures . Y — I f PU . the Mirecourt factory is more ready at invention , that of ° f u r d artm en t Puy is more important . Its work Spreads over o ep s of

Auvergne, and employs near one hundred thousand women and girls of l m m . the ountains The centra arket is Puy .

in l The Auvergne laces , very various sty e , are celebrated for cheap o f m n u ness ; the Operatives this a ufact ring cluster, stimulated by a few r ene getic and enlightened persons , have progressed sensibly within the m m an last ten years . They can yield to the whi of the oment and use y h textile material , flax , silk , cotton , wool , and wire , and w en the demand h ne w for one style ceases t ey modify their labor, invent a style and

spread it rapidly . m The anufacture here is very active and it improves every day . It ffi n di exhibited a specime for the first time , and it was found to be of cult imitation ; the piece was a bournous of Cashmere wool having all the gaudy colors of an India shawl ; the combination of variegated flowers

on a lace foundation created much admiration . It cannot become an and article of commerce, but it denotes progress exhibits the skill of the

Auvergne operatives , and the inventive talent of its manufacturers .

There is also made in a small quantity at Puy, needle point lace of

extreme fineness and of an artistic character, almost equaling the Ven

- r ice point , now obsolete . Of all the lace manufactu ing districts of

France , Puy sends the most productions abroad . 1

SUMMARY .

The number of lace - makers in France is estimated at women and girls ; their average pay is from one franc to one franc and a half 7 0 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

’ per day of ten hours work ; yet some earn as much as three francs an d e a half. This pay is influenced much by fashion with its imp rious

e . A ll e e e and ephemeral xigencies these operativ s , scatt red ov r fourteen Of e a n d departments, work at home, combining the labor the spindl needle with field labor and the more urgent duty of housekeeping . Thus

- heme in lace making has the advantage of being done at the family, with out disturbing agricultural labor ; it provokes no emigra tion and does a not crowd girls in factories , but keeps them from all contact th t would n endanger their morals . For such reasons the business deserves e co u r a gement as beneficial to health , to morals , and to comfort . This industry also h as the Sympathy of all practical and elevated

con co urs - minds . Her Majesty , the Empress , has opened a for lace makers , m and has Spent much money fo r their benefit . Many anufacturers and directors of benevolent institutions are trying to introduce this industry

. o u r a s into families In almost all northern departments of France , well G as in Belgium and ermany, persons favored by fortune are rivaling

n - each other i the establishment of schools for instruction in lace making . an d the At Alencon , Dieppe , Caen , authorities join private individuals in the establishment o f such institutions ; but it is chi efly in Auvergne i n e t that the most has been done this way . The pref c , the agricultural at n m en society , and the board of commerce Puy , and all enterprisi g of the wealth there , have done what they could to improve moral and i hygienic conditions of the lace ndustry . Schools for apprentices are all a a t founded in the communes ; fe sts are given to the best manuf c urers , and premiums are d istributed to the most expert opera tives as en c o u r agem e n t to their en erg The relations between manufacturers and theiropera tives are very

I II - cordial . fact the lace maker does not yield her liberty while she sells she a her time and skill can v ry her occupation , and her labor is restricted to no certain term . If she is not satisfied wi th her p ay she is at liberty to quit th e work when she pleases a n d try some other ; she c an even u h a s sh give p what she begun , if e finds the task too hard , or the com i pen satio n n o t suffic ent .

- u Lace making req ires so many and varied designs , that the industry

Of art- has created the Specialty designers . Machinery is fast taking the pl ace of hand labor in the production of

r c a n garments ; plain sewing and even emb oidery be done by machines ,

- but they cannot make lace . Lace making has nothing to fear from h e l sim machines , w ich are fast giving a democratic tend ncy and popu ar plicity to dress dress now -a -days hardly distinguishes the different l are u th e a socia cla sses . Clothes now bo ght to wear for se son , not to

t e . keep , for fashion mili at s against that The useful is more looked to n o w than the brilliant in costume ; dresses are no more handed d own as

- o r heir looms like jewelry . Without deciding whether this is good bad I n r . in itself, we must say it benefits the wo king classes spite of this

fin an d - mak C hange in the consumption of e costly articles of dress , lace ing has flourished, though the more costly styles of lace are not so much 1 CLOTHING AND WOVEN FABRICS .

ff in demand as formerly . The art must su er a crisis ; but every crisis produces a contest, encourages work , and provokes a healthy energy . in This , our national industry, is more favored France than in other in i s i b n countries ; fact , there l ttle similarity etween French and foreig o ur h as a i n laces . Each of manufacturing districts peculiarity its lace that defies imitation , and of course competition . Though the black lace e u of Grammont and the whit of Saxony may be sold cheaper than o rs , they cannot compete with us in novelty of execution . We are the crea tors , the inventors ; foreigners are the copiers , the imitators . Their lace

: n ur o u t o f . I n can sell o ly when o s is fashion short, the superiority of France in this industrial specialty is indisputable ; it does not m erely t o i n belong the initiative Spirit, nor to the perfect taste found all our home inventions ; it is the manifest consequence of the concentration of two forces , found combined in no national industry so perfectly and so ’ harmoniously ; that is , man s genius of discovery and the commercial expansion of the product ; the talent of woman in the execution of a in ' labor essentially of her domain , and its appropriateness to all the m caprices of a ode essentially French . R R EMB OIDE Y .

xo a n d l France , Switzerland , Sa ny , Scotland , Ire and , monopolize the w h e m industry of hite embroidery , w ich is perform d by achinery as well h as by and , by the tambour frame , the crochet hook , and the needle .

Embroidery in colors is more characteristic of the Orient , and from the eastern nations we find the most gorgeous and varied examples of

m a l : that style ; some of which y be mentioned, name y From Turkey, l h slippers , caps , purses , hand es for hookahs , and housings for orses , all t m m rich wi h silk , gold and silver, e broidered over velvet and other ate o f vi a n d rials ; Egypt, carpets for prayers , one olet one of lilac velvet with gold scroll an d borders of Si lver Russia gold embroideries from fi , ; , Ti is l , upon crimson velvet of excellent design and skil ful preparation . The ecclesiastical vestments produced at Lyons and Paris are among

l n the most e aborate and costly specime s of the art . Prominent amon g them was a chape of silver tissue by Barban , of Lyons , embroidered d a n d i n with gol , a chasuble of gold tissue upon which , bold relief, were

figures partly composed of j ewels ; and from Paris , by Biais , a chasuble in of cloth of gold , embroidered gold , with vine , leaves , and wheat .

1 MANUFACTURE OF FANS . The making and sale of fans form one of the oldest branches of n French i dustry , under the term of Paris articles . As early as the xt u beginning of the Si eenth cent ry , Italian perfumers introduced the u se u of fan s at the court of France ; later, when fashion ass med a Spanish i n tone, the fan was great favor, and from that time to the end Of the

1 t a t t an s a e f t d o the e o t o f M . Duvell ero o f the n te n at o n a u Ex r c , r l r m r p r y, I r i l J ry,

Vol . I . 322. V, p 72 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

’ last century it became an essential part of a French lady s toilet . Thus we find that fan - makers were formerly among the guilds of art an d trade

r . I n 1 673 in the city and subu bs of Paris , an edict of Louis XIV con

- stituted them into a legal body and approved their by laws .

Fan - making has always given employment to a number of workmen a of various tr des , as joiners , gilders , glaziers , paperers , plumbers ,

e an d . h a d a h a n d in paint rs , embroiderers All these the manufacture of fans , which , however Simple , require the aid of many trades . It was not unusual to see goldsmiths , jewelers , carvers , and painters at work in their various ways on this trifling obj ect . F n t n At that time fans were made at a s of all values , from fif een ce ts in to forty pistoles . The commerce fans , for exportation as well as home consumption , amounted to a considerable sum . Some manufacturers a were s id to make twenty thousand livres annually, by exporting fans , not

a . counting profits from home s les of the same article Spain , England , and

Holland were the great customers of France for fans at that period . Spain wa s the only country that kept them ; from the others they were n few se t to South America and the Baltic coast . France imported a fans from China and Japan ; but they were brought o u t because of their exquisite workmanship, and their value was exorbitant as objects r of curiosity f om a d istance . The part of the fan which forms the segment of a circle is called the

la . u is y This is sometimes plain , and of a Single piece ; but sually it fo rmed o f , two pieces of paper or other material , glued or pasted together ;

- e . e and often thin kid skin is pasted on the pap r Satin , gauze , tull , lace ,

a a n d f o f . cr pe , other thin stuf s are used for the body or lining the fan e o n The l af is fixed a mounting called the heft or handle, without regard to other component parts ; thus they say a heft or handle of pearl , k &c . n ec ivory , steel, silver , The strips that form the are of the same

- number as the pleats of the leaf; this is from twelve to twenty four . the e o n Before leaf is fix d the handle , it is put into a stiff paper mold, n with the umber of pleats desired . On closing this mold of two pieces ,

o n . and pressing it, the required pleats are made the paper fan leaf

Between each pleat a copper plate call ed a soun d is introduced . This process of pleatin g wa s once very complicated ; the paper wa s first minutely marked ; and in pleating , the lines had to be followed with great precision ; the mold n o w does away with that tedious process . m ten i n The strips are fro to twelve centimetres length , and it is on this surface that the carving, gilding , and painting are done . The outside

e . strips are stouter than the oth rs , to sustain the leaf All the strips are united at the lower end by a rivet , the ends of which are sometimes ornamented with jewels or the precio u s metals . ’ The in e l Oise Mé ru frames of fans are made the villag s of , between and

a . v N an d Beauv is The communes of Aude ille , Coudray , oailles , Boissiere ,

. e wo rk which Ste Genevieve are devot d to this , employs three hundred

an d . m re persons , men , women , children The principal aterials used a

74 PARIS UN IVERSAL EXPOSITION .

Some writers have attempted to prove that the fan is of Chinese

Origin , although it is found in every Indian country as well as in China . In support o f this assertion the testimony Of legends is invoked ; hence ha the sup eriority that s long been attributed to China . Any one who will take the t rouble to examine into the matter will find that France i n Of has nothing to fear from China , except the production ordinary a n d h fans ; t at is not because we do not know how to make them , but because o ur workmen require and enjoy more material comfort than the

Chinese can command in his country . Except in common fans we surpass the Chinese in the tastefulness and infinite variety of our designs , which are constantly changing . Paris and China monopolize but the trade in fans , all the fashionable people in Europe prefer French fans . The flou rishing condition Of this commerce in the reigns of Louis

XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI , was suddenly destroyed by the revo l u tion 1 8 1 5 u s but when the peace of reopened the world to , orders for u in fans came from all q arters, and they were manufactured hastily f n o t great quantities , but of indi ferent quality . It could have been fo r l otherwise, all the good O d artists and workmen were dead , or had a 1 8 30 dopted some other business . Things continued thus till , when the fo r art taste antiquities having revived , Objects of ancient were f much sought after . A ew years before that period the Duchesse de a Berry gave historic l fancy festivals , and set everybody hunting over l d Spain , Holland , and Germany for the fine O fans the French refugees h ad r car ied with them into those countries . Many were found , but e they w re very costly , and that suggested the idea of reviving the industry as one of the fine arts .

n G avarn i With the assistance of emine t artists , like , Diaz , Eugene , Ro u e l a n e J ac Lami , Camille q p , Glaize , Hamon , Ciceri , Eugen Isabey , u ein art F eu chere t t q , , and the like, all painters and sculp ors of the firs order, the author of this notice , guided by the models he had on hand , attempted to imitate them a n d revi ve the manufacture of tasteful and w costly fans ithout giving up the making of common fans , that gave a who a n d const nt work to country people , tilled the ground in summer made fans in winter . It remains for us n ow to mention that France took the first rank for 1 6 fans at the great French Exposition of 8 7 . Japan , India , and China sent to all our Expositions fans , screens ornamented with feathers , Of beetles , Spangles a thousand colors , pearls , and embroideries of silk , a n d gold , silver . All those articles are remarkable for the very brilliant Of colors , a secret in the land , and for the cheapness the workmanship ;

wa s e . but nothing new , the same models had served them for c nturies e e Spain has made no progress in common articl s , and Franc still furn n ishes fine fans to that country . Austria exhibited some fa s of carved wood ; they are called broken fans in trade . The article is a passing n fancy , and can never form a special industry ; moreover, Fra ce makes N CLOTHI G AND WOVEN FABRICS . 75

m an d . the sa e articles at less price in better t aste than Austria Mr .

- Schwartz, a Danish trade sculptor of Copenhagen , exhibited an ivory ’ fan with bas reliefs representing Thorwaldsen s seasons ; it is a beauti

an m . ful piece of work , but is the labor of a ateur and not of a mechanic m Belgiu m exhibited so e splendid black and white lace fans i n Class 33 . Of n two The collections fans at the Expositio were of kinds , fans for

n . Du vell ero the rich , and fa s for export Three houses , y, Alexandre , va n and Aloys de Voorde , furnished most of the costly fans ; their arti G avarn i cles were adorned by some of the first modern artists , as , R K Miiller Colin , Hamon , Philippe ousseau , arl , Diaz , Eugene Lami ,

- Melc . Miss y, and Madame Girardin Of the trade sculptors and designers n Ka man n ac u emart F an n iere we must me tion Jean Feucheres , g , J q ,

Vaill an d N orest . h brothers, Lanoy , , and The most important ouse, in m Of a commercial View , anufacturing export fans , is that M . F . Meyer . N B recheux l 85 ext to that comes the house of Fayet, Buissot , , Toupi ler

Ta au x . C o . ve , Vanier, , and Caumont All these houses do their best to a m unite art and industry in the rticles they anufacture for exportation ,

catering to the taste of the countries where the products are sent . w Among the principal inventors we must mention Ed ard Petit , who ’ a . improved the closing fan , and Alphonse B nde s fan mold The latter

n - invented the machi e for punching fan frames , the best known at

present . d a E xhi We are convince , from our ttentive examination through the bitio n , that France has no foreign competition to fear, and that France fir m still holds the , s t rank a ong the tasteful industries combining art m and anufacture .

D 1 GLOVES A N SUSPENDERS .

Gloves were better represented this year in the Champ de Mars

34 n . palace, Class , than they were at any former Expositio France had

- twenty seven exhibitors ; Belgium , Austria, Germany, Italy, Spain , Den m a n d ark , Poland took part in the exhibition . We will examine the

in c . business each one of those ountries , beginning with France

FRANCE .

n France produces , annually, nearly two millions of doze s of kid gloves , Of th e first, second, and third qualities , at average price of forty francs a

- n f . dozen , making a busi ess O eighty millions of francs Three fourths of these gloves go abroad ; for i n no other country Of the world are gloves

made so elegantly , well fitting , and cheaply as in France . Seventy i thousand persons are employed in the glove business n France . v Milha u The principal glo e factories are at Annonay, Paris , and , for u n ien L u n é vill e white leather ; Paris , Grenoble , Chaumont, Saint J , , R N fo N C ennes , ancy, and Blois , rgloves ; iort for buck , beaver, and hamois N Milhau C . military gloves ; Vendome , iort , and , for hamois

1 an s ated f o the e o Of M . a en a Of the nte n at on u I 330 t a o . . . Tr l r m r p r C rc c, I r i l J ry, V l V, p E xP I TI 76 PARIS UNIVERSAL OS ON .

E G D N LAN . m Next to France, England is the country that produces the ost and best articles ; yet it is largely indebted to our industry , and imports

u n f from s every year qua tities of raw material for its actories . Till

- n e recently England had the monopoly of dog Ski gloves , but aft r some in trials France has succeded making them as well as our neighbors .

Our knowledge is confined to a single English house , that of Dent,

A l cro ft 8: C o . t , which does a business of thir y millions of francs a year, i n buying, at the same time , twelve millions gloves from France .

England had no exhibitors at the Exposition .

RUSSIA .

A few French man ufacturers settled in Russia and open ed their industry in that country ; they continue t o buy their white skins from

e e France , and even have them dyed and cut h re ; and, as th y make the n u R best quality, their busi ess rivals ours , and has absol tely closed ussia to our manufacturers.

E GI GE A N D T I . B L UM, RMANY, AUS R A

- Glove making has not remained stationary in those countries , and 1 8 6 h the trade was well represented at the Exposition of 7 . C eap arti cles are in favor there . Lamb skin gloves are extensively manufactured , are except in Belgium , where kid is preferred , and they generally sold f w n r e . Ou u at home , very bei g sent abroad man facturers should t h a no ice this competition and prepare to contend wit it , s it is likely to m f increase , and , perhaps , beco e ormidable . IT ALY.

in bu t n Gloves are cheap Italy, the quality is ot good . Mos t that t are made there are consumed in the coun ry , so our manufacturers have nothin g to fear from that quarter .

P I P T G WEDE W DE K A N D P D. S A N, OR U AL , S N, NOR AY, NMAR , OLAN

The gloves made in all these count ries are consumed at home ; ho w i n o f ever, Spain is making improvement the manufacture gloves , and m u st ' m en tio n h they are well made . We that some handsome Swedis i gloves were exhibited by a Frenchman living n Copenhagen . Up to this time France has kept the lead i n the glove market of the world ; but our success excites emulation abroad, and many foreign manufacturers in other cou ntries are now making gloves of such ele gance as to attract the attention of distant customers and excite o u r w R a e n . t o envy Our expor s to ussi , G rmany, and Belgium have percep

i l . t b y diminished , and other markets of the world may soon be closed to us

e n - I n consideration of future imp edim nts to Fre ch glove making , our manufacturers S hould hunt out and adopt the best methods of produc N C CLOTHI G AND WOVEN FABRI S . 7 7 tion ; we allude to the division of labor a system that was opposed at fi , m n u f rst , but will finally succeed , as it will cause a better style of a a c ture, and will become more profitable to the laborer . The prosperity of the large establishments that have adopted the system of d ivision of labor shows its advantages . It is impossible to see that machine -cutting is far preferable to hand ridelle cutting, j ust as the adoption of the has produced regularity in in m cutting. The great advantage the syste of labor division consists an d m in correctness manage ent of work, and customers have lately m found this out . The syste of the division of labor has already been adopted in Belgium and Austria . Since its adoption in France the pay

- of glove makers has advanced from twenty to fifty per cent . , and it i furnishes constant work to women and girls, giv ng them a n honest livelihood . o Of tawin l a The intr duction g in France he ped the Annon yfactory, facili

‘ tated hid es a n d . u tilized t the treatment of , much raw ma erial that was formerly useless ; thus doe - skins that were only used for inferior gloves u 1 8 62 p to , now serve for a glove equal to the English dog skin glove . The production and consumption Of Skin gloves has greatly increased ten m c i n in years , and, of course , the raw aterial has in reased cost ; thus

- -fi ve hair skins that sold for forty francs a dozen at Poitiers or Chalons ,

n o w n - ten years ago , bri g Sixty three francs a dozen ; and though this h a s raised the price of gloves to the consumer, the manufacture of gloves has in no way decreased . n m a Skins intended for gloves undergo ma y anipul tions, according to the quality of gloves to be made out of them ; thus they are tawed for “ ’ u ra ma i llccs ” glossy gloves and Swedish gloves , and f rred or for buck or o f beaver gloves . The tawing skins is intended to deprive them of hair, n and take out the fatty matter of the ski s , as well as to give them the softness necessary for the factory . After maceration in a solution of i a n d o r iment for l me p , some time , the skins are curried and beat , and subjected to various processes to take out the lime and grease , and give

t . them the requisite sof ness They are then fermented to soften the fibers , the fermentation being stopped by a mixture of flour, yolk of eggs, and alum ; they are then dried and spread out .

Chamois skin s undergo a similar process . To dress sheep and lamb m skins properly, they ust lie longer in lime, to remove the wool . The

- sheep skins are then split by means of a fine saw . The hair side serves for morocco ; the flesh side is used for coarse army gloves . Lamb skins are too thin to undergo this process , but they are shaved or ruffed, and serve thus for castor gloves . After passing over the trestle, all skins are n pressed and fulled ; the they are put into a tub of greasy water, to

n . remai till used After having been dried they are pumiced .

Beaver and deer skins are pumiced after they have been colored . r As we have al eady mentioned, sheep and lamb Skins are chiefly used for castor gloves ; ordinary doe - skin may be used for the same purpose ;

- ll doe skins from Servia have been tried on a sma scale . 78 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

1 ELASTIC TISS UES .

PE DE E T G TE A N D E ET . S US N RS , B L S , AR RS , BRAC L S

France Austria, and England represented this industry at our fair ; in France took the lead . The progress this has been great and rapid , for it only dates from the time when India -rubber was first made into

m . fiber, not any years ago ; yet it has reached a great degree of perfection m Judging fro the articles exhibited , Austria has not succeeded in

. e making suspenders England is represented by one house, that S nt enough articles to Show the style of her manufacture . If the houses in i Leicester and Birmingham , that manufacture this k nd of goods exclu sivel l y, had sent some of their productions , we cou d have judged better

Of the importance of this business among our neighbors . ’ d We make nine millions of francs worth of suspen ers , belts , and gar

- c ters , per year , one third of whi h sum is sold at home ; the rest is sent

l . to America, Holland , Ita y, Germany, Switzerland , and Belgium su s Before the use of gum tissues came into fashion , the bodies of l penders were made of cotton or eather , and the springs were of brass R li r w m . e at e ire placed at each end , to give the elasticity Wh n and

ui a um the Ol d - G b l introduced g cloth into France, style suspenders and R garters disappeared . ouen was the first city to take advantage of this

85 C o . R novelty, and the two large houses of Lucien Fromage , and iviere

i in d in . 85 C o . th s , make at least half the articles of e k produced France

d . Mr . Fromage has one most for the business He was first a weaver, ‘

n a n . W t then overseer, desig er, m chi ist , and inventor hen we are old u m S ix that the house sells s spenders at ten centi es and francs a pair, m b and garters at four centi es and three francs , we can j udge what the usi ness must be, knowing the amount done per year . The gu m- cloth business gives employme n t to fifteen hundred operatives R n Of men w at oue . The pay is from three to five francs a day ; for omen , n m one to three fra cs ; and for children , from ninety centi es to one and a half franc . The other factories for such articles are at Paris and Saint

Etienne . The war in the United States forced manufacturers to use flax and jute instead of cotton , to keep their productions at a reasonable price ; f m and competition n o w a fects the . The use of cotton has been resumed in the tissues .

1 n a of the n te n at on a u Vol . I V . 337 . Fro m th e repo rt o f M . C arc e c I r i l J ry, , p C H A P TE R V .

INFLUE N E O F LOTHIN G UPON HEALTH C C . — INFLUENC E OF WOOLEN C LOTHIN G UPON HEAL TH EFFEC TS OF WOOLENS UPON TH E — — SKIN SHAGGY WOOLEN GOODS PROTE C TION AFFORDED B Y WOOLENS FROM TH E — EFFE C TS OF SUDDEN C HA NGES OF TEMPERATURE WOOLENS SHOULD B E WORN A T — T A N IGHT EVIL EFFE C TS OF C LOTHING IMPERVIOUS O I R.

Regarding it as not uninteresting and as Of great practical value to add to this report some remarks upon the hygienic influences of m woolen clothing, I have procured the following memorandu on the m . . . N subject fro Dr A P Merrill of ew York , formerly a Surgeon in the U nited States Army, and latterly a medical practitioner and writer of distinction . Notwithstanding the common use of woolen clothin g in both ancient e u and modern times, and the favorabl impression made pon the minds of men in regard to it in civilized and in barbarous communities every

‘ et sc arcel where, its Virtues and excellences are as y y understood and appreciated among the mass of mankind . Woolen clothing is very gen

rall f s e y adopted and worn without inquiry as to its ef ect , or the manner of producing them . The proper study of the subject implies a knowl

u edge of physiology as connected with its hygienic infl ences , and more i n n ad or less of pathology refere ce to its remedial power . Without in ul verting to these their details , which wo d occupy too much time and w space, I venture to present some Vie s briefly , upon the general subject .

The porosity of woolen goods is greater than that of Silk , cotton , and t n ers ir linen fabrics , by which bo h absorptio and evaporation of the p p l able fluids is faci itated , and thus are they dissipated from the body, n a n d m in an d keepi g the surface comparatively dry war cold weather, red ucing the temperature of the skin in hot by the cooling process of

a . greater ev poration By Virtue of this porosity, also , air is retained in

u i n - woolen text res , serv g to increase their non conduction of heat , and thus affording protection from the deleterious effects of sudden changes in in of temperature . This important feature of porosity woolens is n a n C reased by the p upo the surface , and they therefore become less efficient in shielding the body from cold when worn threadbare . Shaggy h a woolen goods , in t e making of which the manuf cturer attempts an imitation of the arrangements of nature in protecting animals from the o n in influence of cold, are valuable as outer coverings , account of the

Of f . crease this quality af orded by the nap The sheep , of all animals, is best protected in this way ; but the wild animals inhabiting hyperborean in regions , and especially such as seek their food the icy waters of the v n fur Arctic Ocean , are pro ided with a dense coati g of fine next the skin , with a longer, coarser, and less compact hairy covering, both which are E E xPOS I TI 8 0 PARIS UNIV RSAL ON .

C t a imperfectly opied in woolen fabrics , wi h a sh ggy surface . In the use

- c o n du in of flannel next the skin , this non ct g power is increased by wear

ing two thicknesses of thin woolens, which afford better protection in cold weather than can be derived from a Single covering containing an

equal quantity of wool . More air is retained between the folds , and non - conduction of heat is further facilitated by the threads of one of the

textures covering the interstices of the other . To this valuable quality of porosity an d non - conduction of caloric in woolens is added the whOl eso me irritation of the skin produced by the

friction of the woolly fiber, which , except in persons of undue cutaneous n sensitive ess , is not a source of discomfort . The proportion of cases is small in which this difficul ty m ay n ot be overcome by the habit Of wear in g flannel next the person , in both cold and warm weather . The fact of its being fel t in some instances to a n uncomfortable degree is evidence u n t that the niform excitation of the ski by woolens, even when unno iced w he i by the earer, is one of t qualities to which its hygienic and remed al w u po ers are due . This is not only usef l to the skin itself, increasing

and sustaining its functions as an important emunctory organ , but by Of reason the sympathy existing between all the dermoid tissues , and

especially the skin and the mucous tissues of the digestive organs , this cutaneous excitation caused by woolen garments exercises beneficial in flu en c s e over the internal organs of the body in both health and disease . a n d Hence the advant ges derived from clothi g ebilitated persons , and ia h n an d di espec lly c ildren of sle der organization impaired gestion , in f e flannel . Children suf ering from an abnormal irritability of the int sti l nal cana , causing either habitual constipation , or, more commonly, “

a u se . persistent di rrhea, derive great benefit from the of woolen clothing Under the erroneous impression that the invalid may suffer discomfort or inj ury from the supposed heating influence of woolen goods the use of them is sometimes restricted to the winter season ; bu t besides the e exceptional cases to which I have referred , it is found by experi nce that both comfort and health are subserved by the constant wearing of

flannel next the Skin . Changes of season and climate require no other

n flan nel s w modificatio than the substitution of thick for thin in inter, or,

what is generally better, the addition of another garment over the one

worn in summer . The agency of woolens in protecting the body from the evil effects of sudden chan ges of temperature is well illustrated by the use of loose gar W o ments of thick o len goods in furnaces and smelting works , where the bodies Of the Operatives are much of the time exposed to a high tempera h ture , inducing them to seek , as often as they may ave it in their power, the

comforting influences of cold air . All observation proves that the con stant use of woolens under such circumstances is conducive to both com fort and health ; and we have little need of other argument i n favor of

the proper use of flannel garments in warm weather . Were it not that people are constantly exposed to the action of causes

R 8 2 PARIS UNIVE SAL EXPOSITION . the night ; and of all the suggestions which have been made with these i Of a v ews , none are believed to be of greater value than that we ring i n f flannel n ext the skin . All the arguments favor o such u se during v the day are of equal and e en greater force at night, for the body requires the superficial irritation , the absorption and transmission of the per

u n o n - spirable fl ids , and the conduction of heat , even more during the sleeping than during the waking hours ; and then , there are said to be certai n physiologic necessities for air to be brought into contact with i n the skin both sleeping and waking . The garment worn next the person while sleeping, therefore, should always be of wool , and those h a worn during t e day dispensed with . To make the rrangement com

‘ e ufi l te st s the e p e , and to give the sleeper the full b nefit of woolen at tim l v of his greatest need , the sheets should also be of woo , and all the c o erin g above the sheets . In cold weather complaint is sometimes made that woolen bedding fia ta a does not afford suf cient w rmth without an uncomfor ble mount of

a a i n weight . Every addition l thickness , however, ids the retention of x air amid the te tures , retarding evaporation and the radiation of heat ff m from the body, and a ords a edium , also , for the absorption of the are l fluids of perspiration , all which facilitated by the selection of woo ens n th well covered with ap . Additional warm may readily be secured by ll w ff placing over a the oolen coverings , or between the di erent textures .

n . cotton or li en spreads , sheets , or even paper But after a while, in the this case , body of the sleeper, for want of evaporation , becomes a moistened with the fluids of perspir tion , making him liable to cold , xid atin besides removing the o g quality of the air, subjecting the sleeper

. n to more or less depression of nervous energy It is not uncommo , m e in therefore , for persons trying this experi ent to ris the morning with an d s l f n headache , with a feeling of languor and exhau tion , disqua i yi g

h . u u them for their performance of t eir daily duties The se of q ilts ,

- bed spreads of various kinds , comforts filled with cotton or feathers , oil a n d in m e cloths , paper, cotton and linen sheets , is to be deprecated as so degree detrimental to health . Robust and vigorous subjects may not f a readily feel the inj urious ef ects , but feeble constitutions , women of gre t e nervous excitability, and children , cannot subject themselves to thes a evils habitually without becoming aware of declining he lth and energy . Next to flannel a n d woolen blankets the best covering is the comfort bu filled with carded wool , t this should be made of woolen textures of some kind . When impenetrable coverings are used they should be placed exterior to all the rest , that there may be a better chance for the the absorption of the perspiration by the intervening woolens , and for ffi circul ation of air in contact with the body . Sometimes it is su cient to lay such coverings across the feet , leaving all the rest of the body to be covered by woolens alone . n In the selection of woole clothing the same principles are applicable , in n an d the same precautions advisable as the arrangement of beddi g . HI W F “ CLOT NG AND OVEN ABRICS . 3

Garments worn next the person are better made of flan nel than of the

u hosiery n o w in common se . The better nap of the flannel gives it an Of a advantage, and what is greater importance , the flannel g rment is n o t apt to embrace the person so closely . Tightly fitting garments i a impede the c rculation of the blood in the skin , and ret rd the import u o f ant f nctions secretion and absorption , besides preventing in some a a re degree the cont ct of air . There obj ections to every kind of woolen hosiery , and also to the use of the corset , which probably does skin n fin more injury to health by its pressure upon the fc o ed as it is n betwee the corset and the ribs , and its imperviousness to air, than by Of the embarrassment given to the organs respiration . Man y women ff wear their corsets too loosely laced for the latter e ect , without escaping h . t the former AS t is ar icle of dress is not likely to be dispensed with , it would be improved by being made porous , so as to favor the trans mission Of vapor and air ; a n d by being shaped and fitted to answer its n purposes of compression , with a broad ope ing at the places of lacing upon the back and Sides . I n the further application o f the Views and principles herei n ady o cated as I s , applicable to personal clothing, it desirable to avoid the use of cotton or linen fabrics over the woolens worn next the person . To these there are the same objections as to the Sheet over the woolen

- night gown . If such Obstructions to evaporation and circulation of the air be used during day , it is better that they be worn more remote m m n fro the surface of the body, with a greater nu ber of woole tissues

- intervening . Perhaps the water proof overcoat may be less Objection

i h able the day , than the counterpane and comfort at night, even , although it may be less porous , and a better conductor of heat, because u m it sets more loosely pon the person , and ad its of a better circulation I n n of air beneath it . the manner of usin g coveri gs of the body for

a i n the preserv tion of health and comfort, as well as the means of pre a serving healthy skin by frictions , and even in the matter of selecting i n food reference to quality and quantity and times of feeding, we may sometimes derive useful instruction from the practice of men skilled in m a k o f the care and nag ement of valuable horses . The s ins these ani mals are subjected to frictions , bathings , and protection from cold ,

Of - a w requirin g an amount labor and skill , one h lf of hich might often secure the childre n of the family from attacks of painful and danger ous disease . fl The feet are best protected by stockings made of common annel , while boots and shoes shou ld be sufficiently porous for the transmission and evaporation of the perspiration , to prevent the accumulation of moisture . Neither the stocking n o r shoe should fit so closely as to

W - h fo r impede the cutaneous circulation . ater proof s oes secure warmth

c n n a ertai time , but when worn too lo g and the feet become moist from u n the accum latio of moisture this advantage is lost, and warmth and dryness can hardly be restored without exposing the bare feet to the 8 4 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION .

fire . Excessive and morbid secretions are often caused by confining the

-fitin n a feet in close t g and impervious coverings , givi g rise to habitu l

in urio u sl . coldness , and Operating j y upon the general health a n d n ff Silken fabrics are next to be preferred to woolen , cotto stu s h are better t an linen . Something might be said of electric influences in

t n o n - - - conn ection with all these, the greates conducting power being B awarded to silk . u t this is a branch of the subject less thoroughly a n d m understood , the reports which have been ade in regard to electric treatment of disea se leave the q uestion of these influences i n much l u se n doubt . Indeed the action of e ectric currents , and the of co ductors

n n - in h and o conductors of electricity clot ing, either as remedies for or ff he preventions of disease, a ord little encouragement to m for or expect s a re m i n a important result , until new discoveries ade reg rd to these agencies .

i n e in Although the views given this pap r may be the main correct, there are exceptions and anomalies i n connection with them which i n deserve consideration . Sometimes there exists individuals and in families a sensitiveness of the surface of the body which renders the

n n irritation of woolens pai ful and eve productive of cutaneous eruptions , and occasional ly cases are m et with i n which colored flan n el s prove more m . U troublesome than white sed as a re edial agent also , woolens , so e an d Often useful , fail to produce the good ffects expected from them , are n rheumatic and neuralgic pains relieved by weari g linen , cotton , or silk next the Skin , woolens being continued as outer garments . It should be stated , also , that although woolens should in general be loosely worn , i t t the ff c is of en case that both adults and children , su ering with chroni a diseases of the stomach and bowels , derive great advant ge from wearing a broad woolen han d drawn evenly and somewhat firmly round th e body w belo the chest . For want of the firm resistance prevented by the ribs in u se the of the corset, cutaneous circulation and secretion are not

. f seriously impeded , while the pressure thus given appears to af ord all the increased tone and vigor to the organs of digestion , and to abdominal viscera . A N D CLOTHING WOVEN FABRICS . 8 5

o

at 5 m a a 5 a n w A c o 5 n a g o o w w w “. s 6 c 5 a ” a t 9 s 5 3 m a 8 8 fit 2 5 3 5 d fi0 e e 8 0 8 5 e mwa 5 m s 2 m N 8 6 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITIO .

S tatistics of ma nnfltctn res of s uch texti le fa brics a nd a rticles worn o n the p erson a s were taxed un der the i n terna l revenue laws a s the p roduction h nited S ta tes o r the ea r endin J un e 30 of t e U , f y g ,

Val u e o f pro d u ct

0 l o th a n d o t er fabr cs o f co tto n 126 000 000 h i $ , ,

Raw c o tto n t C l o th a n d all texti le k m t o r felted fabric s o ther th an flax o r j u te a n d n o t e l sewh ere en u merated Wo o l en s Si lk a n d m an u fac tu res o f C l othm

A ti c es o f n o t o f w o o wo ven e te o r k n i t o r fro m r l , l , , f l d , ,

fur o r fur sk i n s .

A ti c es o f o m fur r l , fr

A t c es o f o m I n di a - u bb e r i l , fr r r

B o ots an d s o es n c u n t o s e o f I n a - u bbe a n d s o e h , i l di g h di r r, h s trin gs L eather H ats ca s bon n et s an d o o s , p , , h d Umbrell as an d parasol s Watc es a n d c a n s 56 000 ' l 1 20 000 h h i , , , H air G o ves m i tten s an d m o ccas n s m a e b s ewm l , , i d y g H o o p sk irts P ap er c ollars an d all arti cles o f dress m ad e o f p ap er

52 000 Di am o n s em era s ec o u s sto n es a n d I m tat o n s t e eo . 337 600 6 7 d , ld , pr i i i h r f , $ , ,

' C o n d en sed I ro m the C ommi ssio n er s I epo rt i 3 a n d 2} cen ts per pou n d