ARIS UN I ERS A L EXPOSITION 1 86 P V , 7 . REPORTS OF THE UN ITED STATES OMMISSIONERS C . R E P O R T CL OTHIN FABRIC G S , BEING C LASSES TWENTY-SEVEN TOTHIRTY-NINE G ROUP F OUR. “ P A RA N S T E E V N S , UNITED STATES C OMMISSIONER . W A S H I N G T O N G E E T P I T I G F F I E O V R N M N R N N O C . 1 8 7 0 . I N T RODUC T I ON . The United States Commissioners to the Paris Exposition of 1 8 6 7 appointed a committee consisting of Professor J . Lawrence Smith , Doc W . tor E Johnston, and myself, to report on the Products of Chemistry , on the Preparation of Food , and upon Clothing . n It was not fou d convenient to pursue this labor jointly, and the report l o n on chemica s was undertaken by Commissioner Smith , the report food un by Commissioner Johnston , and that upon clothing was left to the der signed . Without any special qualifications for this work derived from my a h bitual pursuits , or any opportunity for preparation , I occupied mys elf n with the collection of materials and memoranda for the report . Amo g the more important of these materials I mention the valuable reports in French upon some of the classes by members of the International Jury , m . from which translations have been freely ade With these reports , and with the excell ent assistance I was able to procure , I have completed n o w resul the task which fell to me , and submit the t to the Department h n an d with the ope that it may be fou d of some practical interest value . R N N PA A STEVE S , United S tates C ommissioner. E C ON T N T S . CHAPTER I . F E CHANGES I N TH E FASHION O WEARING APPAR L COSTUMES . — he va et o f o e ts n u ed u n e the ea o f o t in sto o f the an es i n T ri y bj c , i cl d d r h d cl h g Hi ry ch g — — cl o thin g L aws e n a cte d to prev en t extrav agan c e i n dress Pro gress o f fashio n I n — — — va rio u s c o u n tri es C a uses o f ch an ges i n fashi on s The m o tive o f gain R apid sprea d — o f n ew m o des d u e t o in crea sed fa ciliti es o f c o mm u n ic a tio n E sth etic in flu en c es o f — — dress Pa ri s the great c en ter o f m o dern fa shio n s Sci en c e a n d in du stry stim u l a ted — — by chan ges in fa shi o n Exhibiti o n o f spe cim en s o f c o stu m es o f va rio u s ra c es H i s — t o ric al a n d fa n cy co stu m es I n flu en c e o f c o stu m e s u po n the h a bits o f th e peo ple — — n 7 25 . Th e c o stu mes o f vari o u s co u tries pp . CHAPTER II . MATERIALS F OR CLOTHING . o tto n fa s f o a n e G eat ta n an d o t e o u n t es— o tto n an u fa tu e C bric r m Fr c , r Bri i , h r c ri C m c r i n the n te tates— n en a n d i n en fa s en o o u s o n s u t o n o f i n F a n e U i d S Li l bric ; rm c mp i , r c — Va rio u s s tyl es o f lin en go o ds sh o wn i n th e Fren ch se ctio n Rel a tive imp o rta n c e o f — — the lin e n m an u fa ctu re in vari o u s co u n tri es Fla x a n d lin en i n Ita ly Ma n ufa ct u re o f — — wo o l an d wo rste d The British a rtiz an s o n wo rste d a n d mixe d t extile fa brics Silk — — — a s a m ateria l fo r clo thin g The silk t ra de o f Fran c e Sericu ltu re i n Fran c e Gen era l o h s k n u — — — se vat o n s u o n t e n 27 44 . b r i p il i d stry o f vario u s co u tri es Ribb o n s . pp . R CHAPTE III . Y OF Y-M THE INDUSTR READ ADE CLOTHING . — The artistic exc ellen c e o f w ea rin g app arel pro d u c ed in Pa ri s Sta tistic s o f th e m a n u — — factu re i n Fra n ce The t a ilo ri n g tra de i n Fran c e Rea dy-m a de clo t hin g fo r wo m en ’ — — The seam stresse s art in Pari s The m an u fa ctu re o f b ats fo r m en an d w o m en C o rk — ats en te s o f the h a t t a e i n F an e an d s i — h C r r d r c , tatist cs o f th e m an u fa ctu re B o o ts — — a n d sh o es M a n u fa ctu re o f cl o thin g i n the Un ite d Sta tes He a d- dresses fo r l a dies fi — — t a fl w o ers . 4 Ar i ci l pp 5 59 . R C HAPTE IV . FAN E TC . LACES, S, GLOVES, Th f — e m a n u actu re of rare a n d c o stly l a c e by h a n d No tices o f speciall y i n teresti n g — e t o n s o f a e M a n e- a e a es— a es o n t o n s an d s o n s o f xhibi i l c chi m d l c W g , c di i , divi i — - — — lab o r Edu c a ti o n o f la c e m ak e rs Th e Briti sh a rti san s u p on l a c e M an u factu re o f i — — — l a ce n v a rio u s c o u n trie s Embro id e ry Ma n ufa ctu re o f fan s M an ufa ctu re o f glo ve s i n F an e n an a n d o t e o u n t es— a st tiss u es su s en de s e ts a te s r c , E gl d , h r c ri El ic , p r , b l , g r r , — — an d a e ets . 6 br c l pp 1 78 . 6 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION . CHAPTER V F INFLUENCE O CLOTHING UPON HEALTH . — — The i n fluen ce o f wo o len clo thin g Effe ct s o f wo o len s u p o n th e skin Sh a ggy wo o len — go o ds Pro t e ctio n affo rded by wo o len s fro mthe effe cts o f su dden ch an ges o f t emper — —h l n s s o u be wo n at ni t effe ts o f o n e o u s t o air at u re Wo o e h ld r gh Evil c cl thi g imp rvi . — 7 9 84 . pp . STATISTICAL TABLES . OTH I C L N G . TE I C H A P R . CHAN G E S IN TH E FASHIO N O F C LOTHIN G COS ME TU S . — TH E VARIETY OF OBJ EC TS INC LUDED UNDER TH E HEAD OF C LOTHING HISTORY OF TH E — — C HA NGES IN C LOTHING LAWS ENAC TED TO PREVENT E XTRA VA G A N C E IN DRESS PRO — — GRESS OF FASHIONS IN VARIOUS C OUNTRIES CAUSES OF C HANGES I N FASHIONS TH E — MOTIVE OF GA I N RAPID SPREAD OF N E W MODES DUE TO IN C REASED FAC ILITIES OF — — C OMMUNIC ATION ESTHETIC I NFLUENC ES OF DRESS PARIS TH E GREAT C ENTER OF — MODERN FASHIONS S C I E N C E A N D H QDUS TRY STIMULATED B Y C HANGES IN FASHION fi EXHIB ITI ON OF SPEC IMENS OF C OSTUMES OF VARIOUS RA C E S H I S TORI C A L A N D FA NC Y — — C OSTUMES INFLUENC E OF C OSTUMES UPON TH E HABITS OF TH E PEOPLE TH E C OS T M E U S OF VA RIOUS C OUN TRI ES .