2 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012 WWD.COM See by Chloé to Show Line on Web THE BRIEFING BOX tional…the hip girl’s answer to By MILES SOCHA idiosyncratic cool.” IN TODAY’S WWD Starting at 10:30 a.m. on the PARIS — See See by Chloé first day of the Paris shows, invit- gallop into the digital age — ed retailers and editors can log in and get a jump start on Paris to begin viewing the See by Chloé Out and about Fashion Week. show online. Thirty minutes after at London That is not a typo. Chloé’s the industry debut, the video foot- Fashion Week. contemporary label See by age is to become available on Chloé will introduce its fall Chloé’s Facebook page. 2012 collection on Feb. 29, at On Digitalfashionshows.com, Digitalfashionshows.com, a new users get the complete fashion- platform launched by KCD, the show experience and exclusive New York-based production and content, including a behind-the- public relations firm. scenes look at hair and makeup, This is the first time See by plus detail shots of fabrics, prints Chloé will be showcased in a and accessories. runway-show format, albeit pre- KCD introduced its site for recorded for an online audience. digital shows on Feb. 15, during Previously, the line has been A look from New York Fashion Week, with the presented in a traditional show- See by Chloé. relaunched ICB collection, which room setting. is designed by Prabal Gurung. The French fashion house, According to KCD, the ICB owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont, has as- show had an 80 percent viewing rate, which it DABROWSKI KUBA PHOTO BY sembled a new creative team, and wished to convey deems higher than in-person attendance would the fashion message in a new format. have been. The ICB show garnered coverage in Macy’s and Saks reported strong results for 2011, while Launched in 2001, See by Chloé is produced traditional print media, along with what KCD char- Wal-Mart’s lagged, suggesting stores with better prices and PAGE 1 under license by Italy’s SINV. The house describes acterized as “exceptional” coverage with Web sites products could outperform low-priced retailers. the revamped line as “stronger” and “more direc- and bloggers. Wearable and approachable were the key messages at WWDMAGIC, Project, ENK Vegas, Pool and the ancillary apparel trade shows held in Las Vegas last week. PAGE 1

Iconix, Reliance Brands Form Venture See by Chloé will get a jump start on Paris Fashion Week by introducing its fall collection on Feb. 29 at international growth over the last year or two.” PAGE 2 By Digitalfashionshows.com. VICKI M. YOUNG Cole said international revenue eventually will be higher than the current goal of one-third If there is haute couture in China, it would have to ICONIX BRAND GROUP INC. and Reliance of Iconix’s total business. That’s due in part to the be in the Rose Studio by Guo Pei, but it’s nothing like Brands Ltd. have formed a venture that owns the expected growth still to come in emerging markets any atelier in the West.PAGE 4 intellectual property in India of the brands under such as China, India and Brazil, where the consum- Iconix’s umbrella. ers are keen on Western brands. Nike’s new Flyknit sneakers, which will be released just The structure of the joint venture, the first of its He noted that the agreement with Reliance, in time for the Olympics, were touted at the Nike Olympic kind in India, allows Reliance to seek out li- as in other joint venture agreements it has in PAGE 4 censing and retail opportunities throughout place, contains a provision that includes Innovation Summit on Tuesday. the country for all of Iconix’s fashion the intellectual property of brands that and home brands. Because the joint Iconix might acquire down the road, The recent run-up in gasoline prices could threaten venture itself owns the intellectual provided the option for a given terri- the pace of retail recovery, according to consulting and property, there are no limitations tory is available. research firm Customer Growth Partners. PAGE 4 According to Darshan Mehta, ceo of Reliance Brands, “We will Apparel brands are set to gain greater flexibility in their EXCLUSIVE hit the ground running. We are sourcing options due to the March 15 implementation of ready to go.” a free trade agreement with South Korea. PAGE 12 He was referring to the deep on what opportunities it can connections his firm has in the Strikes by garment industry workers in an industrial pursue regarding its mandate region regarding sourcing, li- zone in Cambodia turned violent with a shooting on to grow royalty revenue. censing and retail distribution. Monday that injured three people. PAGE 12 Iconix, a brand man- The joint venture, which has agement firm, will focus an initial term for 20 years, al- Under Armour will unveil its newest football commercial, on marketing strategies lows Reliance the option of “Cam’s Night Out,” on the NFL Network during the NFL and ensuring the same also becoming a licensee Combine in Indianapolis tonight. PAGE 13 global message and if it chooses. Discussions positioning for each between the two parties A slew of starlets gathered at Siren Studios to brand. Reliance Brands have been ongoing for celebrate 20 years of “Vanities” portraits — part of is part of Reliance some time, and Reliance has PAGE 14 Industries Group, a conglomerate already started building the team Vanity Fair’s lead-up to the Oscars. that is the largest private sector for the venture’s initiatives. company in India. The venture is For now, Reliance will study ON WWD.COM based in Mumbai. each brand in the Iconix port- The latest partnership — folio to determine who best to Iconix has similar arrange- work with, and where that dis- They Are Wearing: Off the runways and onto the streets ments for Greater China, PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO tribution channel should be. and sidewalks for some of the best looks from London Europe and Latin America — “There are a lot of retail Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com/eye. pushes Iconix closer to its long- London Fog is one brand owned by Iconix. doors in India. Every retailer is term goal of growing internation- looking for exclusivity,” Mehta said. al revenue to a third of its total business. In 2010, Two of Iconix’s brands — Ed Hardy and Mossimo Iconix posted $98.8 million in income and $332.6 — already have a presence in India and will be million in revenues. The company reports fourth- rolled into the new joint venture. Arvind Ltd., which quarter and full-year results for 2011 today. holds the Mossimo license, will continue as licensee. WWD. Neil Cole, chairman and chief executive officer of Other fashion brands in the Iconix portfolio Iconix, said, “We originally thought it would take us include Candie’s, Bongo, Badgley Mischka, Joe three to five years. Now, [we think] we can get there Boxer, Rampage, Mudd, London Fog, Ocean Pacific, Available possibly by the end of 2013. We’ve had really good Danskin, Rocawear and Starter. on iPad.® TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 37. WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. 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ChinaFile A Guo Pei gown. Politically Correct Couture IF THERE IS HAUTE Couture in China, “Do you have a dream of dressing it would have to be in the Rose Studio by China’s first lady one day?” I asked. She Guo Pei. But it is nothing like any atelier smiled but wouldn’t answer directly. “Do you have seen in the West. you dress her already?” I asked. The To start with, Rose Studio does answer is the same demure smile that not have a fancy address like Avenue Chinese woman are known for. Montaigne. It’s located on the northern “Really, like the way Michelle Obama outskirts of Beijing in a nondescript three- has put Jason Wu on the radar screen as story office building. There is construction one of the hottest designers, a Chinese all around — instead of being surrounded first lady client will do the same for you,” by fashionable shops, it’s enveloped by I prodded. construction cranes and bulldozers. The “It’s wrong to think that way,” Guo fi- neighborhood is more like Hoboken, N.J. nally said. “We must think of ourselves as Yet, Rose Studio boasts an annual service people; it’s wrong to use the first turnover of 50 million yuan, or $8 mil- lady of China to promote myself. It’s not lion, and has a stellar client list of over something that’s done here, not in China.” 500, which is comprised of a Who’s Who I was shocked at her political sensibili- of A-list China. Actress Ziyi ty. She must have dressed quite a number sighed and said, “My clients come in with Guo is not a very high-pro- ChinaFile Zhang (center) of officials and officials’ wives to develop photos and say, ‘Can you make this for file designer. When I inquired wearing a Guo such a politically correct attitude. me?’ Since then, I have learned from my about her style, she told me Pei dress. “What happened to Jason Wu only mistakes.” Guo said despite the public be- that, instead of a famous name, happens in the West. Can you imagine lief that she made a fortune on the gowns, what makes her stand out is yards of free fabric. I took if the Chinese press talked more about in fact, she has lost money working for that she can execute the most the fabric.” a dress than the leader himself?” she CCTV. “They have no budget for costume,” complicated designs right in Guo does not have regu- mused. “The political clients I have all she said. “They just rely on the fact that her studio. “Designers in China lar fashion shows. “I do request that I make something very sub- these hostesses want to look their best now do not know manufactur- fashion shows for myself dued and not eye-catching. The last thing and would spend their own money for the ing,” she pointed out, “they and the people who work in they want is to outshine their husbands.” gowns. So I cannot charge that much.” all want to be famous. But I BY HUANG HUNG the studio,” she explained. “Is that your secret to success as a Guo’s prices are below those of the Paris am old school, I learned de- “My shows might happen couturier?” I asked. couture. An evening gown is anywhere from sign when there was no design once a year or twice in three “In a way, “ she said. “I very often have 80,000 yuan, or $12,000, upwards. She also school in China.” Indeed, Guo studied gar- years. It’s not about seasons.” Her show to tell myself, I am just a service person, a makes suits and dresses for female execu- ment design and manufacturing in the early pieces are Chinese embroidery on steroids; seamstress. I don’t think of myself as a de- tives. These costs anywhere between 20,000 Eighties, when educating designers was all they are so heavy that models probably signer for some of my clients. I just do what and 150,000 yuan, or $3,800 to $28,000. about patternmaking and manufacturing. need to lift weights before trying to carry they want and you would be surprised at “These are my favorite clients,” Guo After graduation, Guo worked for a local them down the runway. They are total fan- how much politics there is in a dress.” said. “They cannot find their sizes in manufacturer for 10 years before starting tasy, extraordinary in their own way. As much as this submissive attitude branded stores, so they come to me and I her own business. Guo’s studio has its own embroidery has won Rose Studio A-list clientele, it can make them feel beautiful.” “I knew all about manufacturing,” she workshop with more than 300 workers. also nearly ruined the business in 2009. “Why did you choose this place as your said, “and my husband taught me about On top of her office is a huge atelier not That year, Guo designed quite a few office,” I asked. “It’s really hard to find.” fabrics.” Guo’s husband is a Taiwanese only for clothes, but also shoes and head- pieces for TV hostesses for the televised “It’s good to be inconspicuous,” she businessman who runs a family textiles pieces as well as buttons. Rose Studio has New Year Gala. After the show, a wave of said. “Who would think that one is order- business. “When we got engaged,” Guo a showroom in the fashionable 798 art Internet postings accused Guo of copy- ing a gown worth over 100,000 yuan on said, smiling, “he asked me whether I district and Guo is getting ready to open a ing designs by famous fashion houses in the fifth ring road?” wanted a rock on my finger or 50,000 bridal shop on the Bund in Shanghai. Paris. When I asked Guo about this, she It’s all geopolitics, I guess.

Nike to Introduce Flyknit Technology Gas Hikes Could Imperil Retail Rebound NEW YORK — Nike believes its new two versions of the HTM Trainer+ (one was a substantially smaller 2.3 percent Flyknit sneakers, which will be released features the Lunarlon midsole) that will By ARNOLD J. KARR growth rate with apparel again per- just in time for the Olympics, represent retail from $160 to $175. forming somewhat better. CGP’s retail a revolution. “It’s extremely lightweight and com- THE RECENT RUN-UP in gasoline sales are based on categories other than Touted as one of its most signifi- fortable so it’s like a sock or second skin. prices could threaten the pace of re- automobiles and parts, gasoline and oil cant innovations of the year at the Another key element is there’s almost no tail recovery. and restaurants. Nike Olympic Innovation Summit, held waste. We’re doing the right thing for the That’s the concern of Customer “If energy gets up to 9 percent [of Tuesday and today at Basketball City at athlete but also for the environment,” Growth Partners, the New Canaan, PCE], which it could if gas moves to Pier 36 here, Nike Inc. chief executive Martin Lotti, Nike’s global creative di- Conn.-based consulting and research $4.30 or so, that would take another 4 officer Mark Parker expects the sneak- rector Olympics, told WWD. “I’ve de- firm covering retail and consumer prod- percent out of consumer spending, with er to unleash “a paradigm shift in foot- signed many, many shoes, and if you com- ucts. Craig Johnson, president, noted certain categories, particularly discre- wear manufacturing.” pare traditional shoemaking to this, it’s that five of the last six recessions — all tionary ones like fashion apparel, being “It’s smart, fast, beautiful and sustain- completely different. This is completely but the 2001 pullback following the 9/11 hit the hardest,” Johnson said. “People able,” Parker said during the summit automated and you can design terrorist attacks — have occurred when still have to buy groceries, drive to work Tuesday, where the featherweight, seam- down to the smallest millimeter overall energy costs have exceeded 6 and heat their homes, but a night out or less shoe was introduced (in addition to for breathability — whereas percent of personal consumption ex- a new outfit could be sacrificed.” the Pro Turbospeed Suit, Zoom Spikes, as before it was penditures. With the national average at In all likelihood, he stated, that Hyper Elite Basketball Uniform crude and the pump at $3.52 a gallon in mid-Feb- would affect average unit retail prices and the Lunarlon col- rudimentary. ruary, energy costs would run at about more than units themselves. Consumers lection). It’s also Now it’s one 6.2 percent of PCE, as measured by the might shop in less expensive depart- the most eco- single surface.” U.S. government. ments or turn to lower-priced name- friendly shoe pro- Lotti went on to describe “Gas prices aren’t necessarily the plates or retail channels, such as duced by the brand the upper of the shoe, add- cause, but there’s a strong correlation off-price stores and factory outlets. to date — but the fact Nike’s Flyknit Racer. ing that it feels like an between them and economic down- E-commerce’s advantages would be en- that the upper is com- “engineered surface” made of turns,” said Johnson, who served as hanced, as they appeared to be during prised of just a single piece of woven poly- multiple strands of woven polyester on branch chief for economics in the the holiday season as gas prices began ester is its most innovative quality. a “printer”-like machine. The end result Department of Energy before focusing to move higher. The Nikeknit technology includes a gives a look of a textured, woven sweater on retailing. “This was happening in Johnson cautioned that fuel prices Flyknit Racer — a 5.6-ounce high per- — in shocking neon or blue — but fits the 2008, before the collapse at Lehman are volatile and could move up briskly on formance shoe designed for a marathon wearer’s foot like a second skin. Brothers — gas prices went to an all- heightened tensions in the Middle East runner — and the Flyknit Trainer+, a Abdi Abdirahman wore the Flyknit time high, above $4, and didn’t come or, in a preferable scenario, downward version of the above that’s been modi- Racers when he qualified to be part of down until the economy was already on hopeful geopolitical signs or oversup- fied for the everyday athlete in a slightly the U.S. Olympic marathon team last in recession.” ply. What’s especially troubling to him is heavier 7.6-ounce sneaker. Both will go month. One of the first to train in the Johnson, one of the more optimistic the pace of recent inflation in fuel prices, on sale in July, but a limited edition HTM shoes, this will be Abdirahman’s fourth and accurate prognosticators among which have risen about 30 cents a gallon Flyknit collection of three sneakers will Olympic games, although he’s only com- those covering retailing, last week pro- in the last two months alone. be released today at the Nike Sportswear peted in 10,000-meter races thus far. jected a 5.7 percent increase in retail “This is the steepest early-winter store on Mercer Street. The latest in a de- “The shoes have all the support sales for the new year, with apparel rise since the Seventies’ oil embar- cade-long collaboration between Parker, you would want, but the top feels like sales up about 6.5 percent. However, his goes,” he said. “Supplies are ample, so Hiroshi Fujiwara and Tinker Hatfield, the a sock,” the athlete said. “It feels like low-growth alternate scenario, which a lot of this can be traced to geopolitical three shoes include the HTM Racer, iden- you’re walking barefoot, to be honest.” assumes a rise in gas prices to more strains and some of it simply to the ef- tical in function to the Flyknit Racer, and — RACHEL STRUGATZ than $4.25 a gallon during the year, fects of economic improvement.” OFFERING OVER 900,000 SQUARE FEET OF CUSTOMIZABLE UPSCALE RETAIL, RESTAURANT, CAFÉ, LUXURY OFFICE

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McQ Giles Roksanda Mary Ilincic Katrantzou

SPINNING YARNS From spooky forests to a kooky disco, all manner of inspirations wove their way through London’s final fall collections.

McQ: The woods are lovely, dark and deep a manor up in flames and asking what and embellishment played a starring and Benjamin Kirchhoff went for a — and teeming with tailored clothing, its occupants might claim as their role, her simpler silhouettes were also more classic show this time — although tartan and party dresses. Alexander most treasured possessions. Well, their standouts, especially a bright purple the clothes were as quirky as ever. A McQueen’s creative director Sarah evening finery, naturally. shift with a tiny pleat at the front and real glitter fest, there were sequined Burton presented her McQ collection A scorched invitation summoned origamilike folds at the back. pantsuits and patchwork furs, tinsel- on a bed of autumnal leaves, and with a guests to The Stationers’ Hall, a fringed boleros and skirts, striped Lurex full forest set in the background. While it storied livery company for the book Mary Katrantzou: Mary Katrantzou took an tights and sparkling Seventies platform may not have been what the poet Robert and publishing industry whose history ornate yet whimsical approach to her shoes. The nontwinkling fare included Frost had in mind, it was beautiful — and stretches back to medieval times. Some inventive prints, finding inspiration in childish patches on denim pants and slightly creepy. This was the first McQ of Deacon’s bulbous gowns, with unicorns household objects. Clothes hangers were jackets, and acid-colored pin dots on runway show since the brand took the frolicking on the heavy brocade fabrics, arranged on a pale jade dress, while old- giant baby-doll dresses. These designers collection — which launched in 2006, recalled the era. But his cast of characters fashioned rotary dials dotted a heavy are really serious about not taking and will be getting its own stand-alone wore a variety of looks, from handsome silk shift dress with a billowing chiffon fashion, or themselves, too seriously. store on London’s Dover Street in the tuxedos and tailcoats to fishtail gowns in cape. The designer worked with the spring — in-house. The polished, elegant laser-cut satin or thorn-bush lace. Deacon embroidery house Lesage, which resulted Nicole Farhi: Inspired by the art and clothes popped with McQueen signatures, got too carried away with burn motifs, in some fantastical creations, such as architecture of Vienna’s Secession including Black Watch tartan for coats embroidering them onto ballgowns and hundreds of yellow eraser-tipped pencils movement — of which Gustav Klimt with cinched waists and full skirts, torching real holes into satin jackets and sewn onto the tulip-shaped skirt of a silk was the first president — Nicole Farhi’s as well as kilts for men. There was a chiffon skirts. He cooled things down with dress, and sparkling sequins and crystals collection was a study in structure and powerful military feel, too, in the form of beautiful frost motifs, etched, for instance, in graduating shades of blue for a bolero shape. The most appealing looks were two-tone wool great coats and belted skirt in Swarovski Elements over the sheer jacket. Katrantzou also manipulated her those that offered a gentle take on suits. The evening dresses were dramatic: bodice of a printed evening dress. prints as intarsia designs on sweater sculptural silhouettes, such as a draped Some had full Fifties skirts and flourishes dresses. Standouts included an icy blue sheath dress in a gray iridescent fabric, of velvet and tulle, while other, shorter Roksanda Ilincic: Baby, it’s cold outside, so one dotted with tiny crystals, and a moss and a deep gold silk blouse worn with ones were adorned with bright flowers or why not wear a bit of fur on everything green version laced with silk embroidery, a softly voluminous moss green silk tone-on-tone embroidery. — from a sweatshirt to an evening gown? sequins and crystals. skirt. There were also luxurious cocoon Roksanda Ilincic spliced astrakhan with coats, including one in off-white felt that Giles: Like a house on fire. Giles silk for day dresses and trimmed hoods, Meadham Kirchhoff: After shaking up wrapped around the body like a blanket. Deacon brought new, fashionable pencil skirt hems and evening gowns London with their runway hijinks for In contrast, the wool dresses with stiff meaning to that expression, imagining with thick lengths of the pelt. While fur several seasons, Edward Meadham peplum details looked tricky. WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012 7 WWD.COM

Meadham Nicole Farhi Topshop Mark Kirchhoff Unique Fast

FOR MORE PHOTOS AND REVIEWS, SEE WWD.com/ runway. ALL PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI EXCEPT BELSTAFF BY ELKE MEITZEL BY BELSTAFF GIANNONI EXCEPT GIOVANNI ALL PHOTOS BY

Topshop Unique: A sweeping maxi coat in officer green A look from FUN AND GAMES opened Topshop Unique’s Belstaff. show, announcing the military- TWO BRITISH LABELS, Anya utility theme of the collection Hindmarch and Belstaff, went on a and its slouchy, exaggerated charm offensive — to great effect — proportions. Even biker and during London Fashion Week, each baseball jackets were cozy and staging evocative presentations. roomy — the former in fluffy Hindmarch concocted a Willy sheepskin, the latter in drab Wonka-ish funfair on Tuesday that wool with sleeves in Harris featured singing and dancing bags, tweeds. Fabric mixing was the along with carnival rides festooned with other key maneuver of Topshop’s accessories. Inspired by the colored in-house design team, as shown foil wrappers on English Quality Street on leather trousers backed in candies, as well as a childhood spent Prince of Wales check and a peering through the toy-shop window, black boiler suit in glossy velvet the multicolored glittery bags — which and matte silk. Shirttail hems had been mechanized for the show — finished off coats, vests and came rolling out on a conveyor belt languid silk dresses. singing, shimmying and shaking their Anya Hindmarch’s long zipper fringes. Platform heels festive bags. Mark Fast: Known for his tapped along to the booming Broadway cobweblike, form-fitting show tunes playing in the background, knitwear, Mark Fast showed while additional bags whizzed around on his more relaxed, accessible a wooden Ferris wheel. “Other handbag side this season, noting that he brands seem rather dull by comparison,” later evolved into the go-to brand for was aiming for “sophisticated said the cheeky Hindmarch in the show bikers, aviators and sporty, outdoorsy grunge.” The Canadian- notes. At the end of the spectacle, a types who fell in love with Belstaff ’s born designer worked with curtain parted to reveal the designer performance fabrics. chunky ribbed knits that furiously pedaling a stationary bike as if At the presentation, models wore he fashioned into draped the whole show ran on her steam alone looks such as a suede shirtdress styled minidresses, cropped sweaters — which, in essence, it did. with a cropped python jacket, a burgundy and hooded shawls. These Over the weekend, Belstaff made shift dress with chain detailing on the cool, substantial pieces will its debut as a luxury brand in a more collar and a shearling coat with a collar no doubt have a wider appeal tranquil environment featuring grass, latch echoing the brand’s signature than the skimpier, cutaway pebbles and glass cases filled with looks Roadmaster jacket. Speaking of minidresses that also peppered from its new collection. The house was Roadmasters, they were out in force — in this collection. But the latter founded in Staffordshire, in the English waxed cotton, leather and crocodile. The will please Fast’s flamboyant Midlands, in 1924, and it quickly became strong outerwear-heavy collection should celebrity fans, including Nicki known for its waxed-cotton fabric jackets rapidly build a luxury-loving fan base. Minaj and Rihanna. for motorcycle enthusiasts. The company — SAMANTHA CONTI 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012 Wearable Looks Prevail in Vegas

{Continued from page one} seasons. Pharrell Williams came to sup- emerged for later in the year, but shades A look port his apparel line Billionaire Boys A digital print of pink, purple, blue and red brightened from Bali’s Club, and Dylan George spokesmodel from Hudson spring and summer wares. Metallic fin- Blackheart at Kellan Lutz hosted a party with the pre- Jeans at ENK. ishes glistened in collections as well. Project. mium denim brand at the Paris Hotel’s And it appeared that designers attempt- Chateau Nightclub. Sin City’s nightlife ed to place prints — whether they were also drew Sophia Bush, Melissa Joan skulls, stars, stripes, paisley, chains, Hart and Mischa Barton, who attended leaves or plaid — on everything from AG Adriano Goldschmied’s party with skinny jeans to wool coats. Foster the People at Marquee in the “The way people are approaching Cosmopolitan Hotel. On the other hand, newness is through color,” said Natasha there were also some random celeb- Pace, trend manager for Amazon.com rity sightings. Actors Peter Facinelli, Inc.-owned online footwear and apparel Annalynne McCord and Molly Sims min- retailer Zappos.com, adding, “They are gled with ceo’s at a luncheon hosted by going to keep the same silhouette, but MAGIC, while “Modern Family” star Eric we are going to start seeing more color, Stonestreet roamed Project’s aisles, la- more prints.” menting, “None of these places make High-low hems continued to reign clothes that fit me.” in popularity, perhaps as a metaphor Best in Show: G-Star Raw softened for the stock market’s fluctuations. Los moto pants with mustard-colored stretch Angeles’ Lulumari added a high-low hem sateen wholesaling for $91 a pair. MiH to a $22.75 dress fashioned from coral jeans spruced up a $550 biker jacket in pleated chiffon panels and a strapless silver snake-print leather and gray cot- black acrylic top. ton panels that created a dramatic flare Los Angeles-based Kut From the Kloth in the back. For its Las Vegas debut, realized that the more trends it offered, Bali’s Blackheart displayed a $169 chain- the better reception it summoned from print silk minidress accentuated by black retailers. Its offerings ranged from $58 leather on the necktie, waist and cuffs. skinny denim jeans coated with a purple metallic layer to $48 fake-leather jackets POOL covered with leopard spots. Mood: Pool was filled with youthful, small- Aryn K., a young contemporary line er brands. from Los Angeles, benefited from a bet- Key trends: The Asian influence at Pool ter retail mood, recording an estimated has not abated. Sean D’Anconia’s ad- growth of 35 percent from last February’s on $135 skinny jeans. Ksubi bonded dition to the Asian-themed crowd was show. It presented $55 cropped coats in nylon on $199 denim jeans and then used Mayumi Gumi, a T-shirt line priced most- a Southwestern-inspired print, and other a plasticized coating for a hologram ef- ly at $30 to $35 retail that the creative di- items, to retailers such as Piperlime.com, fect. France’s Notify tried to round up rector of Los Angeles’ D’Anconia Studios Macy’s, Von Maur and Japan’s In Transit. last-minute orders for its spring 2012 explained is centered on a character Price remained a concern. Retailers collaboration with Manish Arora, which that’s “like Hello Kitty on acid.” In jew- balanced the amount of orders they encompasses $178 to $310 jeans and be- placed at the trade fairs with the inven- gins shipping in 60 days. New Zealand’s clothes in California, has been fruitful. tory they kept in their stores. Potential Stolen Girlfriends Club used a hand- Best in Show: Stores were taking a future hiccups, such as unpredictable painted skull print in a watercolor wash chance on Pavonine by Jessica Solomon, weather and rising gas prices, kept any on cotton T-shirt dresses and silk maxi- a two-year-old Los Angeles-based line. unwarranted exuberance in check. dresses with a high-low hem. Michael Key pieces included wide-leg viscose Stars melded the trends for color and twill mustard trousers for $109 wholesale PROJECT AND WORKROOM leather in $85.50 color-blocked crewneck and a basket-weave rayon twill trench Mood: Buyers and exhibitors were up- sweaters with leather yoke panels. for $152. Another Los Angeles designer, beat as newness buoyed the show and Show Buzz: In a sign of the improving Samantha Eng, made her trade show a better layout improved traffic at the economy, Project attracted more celeb- debut at Pool with a 29-piece collection Mandalay Bay Convention Center. With rities to the show than in the past few of what she described as primarily easy- about 400 brands taking up roughly 25 fitting, comfortable clothes in wearable percent of the show floor, the women’s colors like navy, gray and black — such as section featured a separate entrance A popular style a rayon and spandex silk blouse whole- with its own amenities, such as makeup from G-Star Raw saling for $35 and an off-the-shoulder and manicure bars. Workroom, the area at Project. polyester and spandex dress for $51. highlighting up-and-coming brands, and a larger accessories floor served as a ENK VEGAS buffer between the women’s section and Mood: Novelty gave a boost to retailers the space occupied by men’s labels and that shopped the show, as well as to the premium denim vendors that anchor the vendors displaying their latest wares. show. Reflecting its focus to attract top- “We’re selling a lot of novelty fabrics,” tier stores to the show, Project organizers said Marc Murfitt, vice president of sales escorted a buyer from Bergdorf Goodman and merchandising at Ridgefield, Wash.- to visit J Brand’s booth. Other retailers based Agave Denim. “Not everybody who shopped Project included Brian needs denim.” Kaneda from Ron Herman and Kitson’s Key Trends: Denim designers mined Fraser Ross. A look from Pavonine at Pool. textiles for alternatives to blue denim Key Trends: Project was the venue for and fabrics that mold the body. Agave premiering new lines and designers. elry, pieces worn on body parts not typi- Denim used stretch velvet, in rust and Hang Ten Gold launched for fall 2012 cally adorned with metal were conversa- brown, for $90 ski pants. James Jeans with $75 angora cable-knit shorts and tion starters. Ryan Elisabeth’s namesake unveiled a new grouping called Couture $170 color-blocked cashmere sweater line featured gold, silver, gunmetal and Collection that it claimed would hold the dresses among 25 women’s stockkeep- beaded headpieces for $30 to $45 whole- shape of jeans, thanks to a stretchy cot- ing units designed by former Ever cre- sale. Oakland, Calif.-based Nous Savons ton-Lycra fabric. Available in three rises ative director Jason Bleick. Striving showed a harness design for $54 whole- — in skinny, straight and boot styles — to compete against Vince and James sale that drapes over shoulders and is Couture Collection wholesales from $80 Perse, Hang Ten Gold targets sales of made from brass and nickel. to $84. SkinnyJeans combined the trend $2 million this year and plans to expand Show Buzz: Pool tends to be a source of for color and the fanaticism of college- into leather and outerwear in 2013. Los rather bizarre wares that sometimes take and professional-sports fans in a collec- Angeles’ Rich & Skinny said Terrell off. Eco-friendly brands continued to oc- tion of straight-leg styles called Team Wickman, formerly a designer at Paige cupy a good chunk of the real estate at Colors, with a wholesale price of $75 a Denim, replaced founding designer Joie Pool, but environmental missions were pair. Bella Luxx integrated the high-low Rucker. Denimocracy is revamping its this time mostly coupled with messages hem in $52 teal Modal-silk tank dresses entire line under the direction of Janine about American manufacturing. Nearly with side ruching. Unsatisfied with just Shaw, who was previously with William three-year-old dress specialist Frock Los using a leaf print, Norway’s By Ti Mo Rast. Colored denim was pervasive, and Angeles, for instance, advertised itself added lace-tipped collars and ball fringe prints and innovative finishes height- as being both made in the U.S., where it on the cuffs of $120 silk blouses. ened the novelty factor. The silhouette pledges to employ domestic fabric sup- Show Buzz: To make it easier for retail- for jeans was long and lean. Frankie B, pliers and factories that pay fair wages, ers to shop, ENK Vegas dedicated one AG Adriano Goldschmied and Kill City and 100 percent eco-friendly. Nooworks’ ballroom at the Wynn Hotel to only wom- printed stars on skinny jeans and leg- recipe of working with textiles designed en’s brands and another located across

gings. Joe’s Jeans embroidered brocade by American artists, and making its the hall for a mix of men’s, women’s and JEANEEN LUND PHOTOS BY WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012 9 WWD.COM coed denim brands. DENIM Best in Show: Citizens of Humanity Chantelle captured an autumnal ambience with Paris’ classic a paisley print on brown and rust-col- French lace ored skinny velveteen jeans wholesal- look at ing for $99. Mink Pink, an Australian Curve NV. Mizrahi Takes On Denim young contemporary line, gave its own interpretation of paisley-printed vel- By veteen in $36 cuffed shorts and $68 KHANH T.L. TRAN Looks from hooded coats with fake-fur trim and Isaac Mizrahi buckles. Hudson Jeans turned to tech- LOS ANGELES — Isaac Mizrahi’s family Jeans, a denim nology for digital prints that evoked a of licensees has found its way to women’s and sportswear celestial landscape as seen through a denim, and with one of the veterans of the line launching telescope. Hunt No More, a young con- fashion jeans business. for fall. temporary line that is the sister brand Sunrise Brands, the apparel design and to Mink Pink, launched for fall with manufacturing company headed by Sasson drape-front sequin and velvet tuxedo Jeans co-founder Gerard Guez and previ- jackets, dresses fashioned from black ously known as Tarrant Apparel Group, is ponte and metallic snake-print fabric launching a moderately priced line called and other items that could provide Isaac Mizrahi Jeans for fall. To stand out nightlife options for young women on a in a competitive market still challenged by budget. Wholesaling from $30 to $175, an unstable economy, the line is banking Hunt No More picked up orders from on the designer’s vibrant colors and bold retailers such as Akira in Chicago and prints and a personality to match. NastyGal.com. “It is a designer look,” Mizrahi said. With reference to one of Aesop’s Fables, WOMENSWEAR IN NEVADA (WWIN) he noted his ideal customer is “not a Mood: The show in the Rio Las Vegas country mouse, she’s a city mouse.” Hotel & Casino housed some 2,000 missy, Ellis, co-owner of the shop 2 Shabby Sunrise is the latest licensee to link contemporary, plus-size, petite and ac- Divas in Clovis, N.M., praised WWIN with Mizrahi. Since Xcel Brands Inc. ac- cessories lines. Buyers remained price- brands’ plus-size efforts. “We are con- quired Mizrahi’s licensing business last conscious but ready to spend for spring- stantly looking for cute, trendy plus- September for $31.5 million, the New summer immediates as well as for fall. size clothes up to 3X,” she said. York-based company has embarked on a Best in Show: Real or fake, fur was licensing spree. Robert D’Loren, Xcel’s a WWIN staple. Ming Wang, the knits chairman and chief executive officer, said A versatile brand based in Grapevine, Tex., the company has inked 21 licensing deals tunic from weaved faux fur made from acrylic in more than 50 categories, including bags, Chalet at into vests priced mostly from $85 to $95 eyewear, shoes, fragrance and clothes for WWIN. wholesale. men and infants. Although declining to provide sales projections, he said denim CURVE NV will represent a core license, targeting de- Mood: Lingerie buyers were focused on partment stores such as Macy’s, Dillard’s, trends and bigger cup-size bras at the Belk, Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom. Sands Expo show. “It’ll be a significant business for us Key Trends: Long line bras; black lace and one we’ll watch closely and grow over jewel-toned satin lingerie; faux steadily,” D’Loren said. “Given the level thigh-high tights in mélange knits; cup- of our licensees and their past perfor- size swimwear. mance in the marketplace at this level of Best in Show: Chantelle Paris’ group distribution, we’re certainly positioned “He keeps himself very current,” featured classic French lace woven well to succeed. As far as Isaac’s direc- Cox said. onto stretch satin, allowing for the look tion, we’re trend-right.” Mizrahi also tries to keep his line fresh. plus comfort ($38 bra; $20 panty). Huit’s Equating Mizrahi with “timeless looks His favorite pieces include the leopard- Rumeur black mesh and satin long line and modernity,” Stephen Cox, president print jeans and a color-blocked sweater bustier ($50) and high-waisted panty of Isaac Mizrahi Jeans, said the assort- with a curved yoke, which is an adaptation ($30) exemplified one of the season’s ment “can fit a woman who is younger and of popular style he’s done in the past. top trends. aspirational and an older woman who With all the new licenses, Mizrahi doesn’t wants to look and feel contemporary.” worry that he’s saturating the market. MODA As fashion tends be cyclical, the bright “I think it’s very underdeveloped at this Mood: Buyers came in search of colorful colors and floral and animal prints that point,” he said. “I would worry if they were and comfortable knitwear and sweat- Mizrahi used in the beginning of his 26- bad partnerships or never done before. It ers, lightweight wool jackets, raincoats year career have come back in style. Cox, seems the right expansion for my business and trendy furs. who joined Sunrise last June after hold- at the moment.” Key Trends: Furs with novelty textures ing executive positions at Express, Wet such as rosettes, weaving and patch- Seal and C&C California, injected a funky work; the layered look exemplified by flavor into the debut collection’s 75 styles cropped sweaters over tunics over max- with big flowers printed on skinny jeans iskirts; exaggerated shawl-collar jack- in cool blue tones, leopard spots on denim ets and sweaters. pencil skirts and pink and purple polka Best in Show: Bryn Walker’s boiled- dots covering sheer blouses. The flashy Key Trends: “The tunic is still king,” wool coat embellished with color- novelty of motorcycle jackets fashioned remarked Eric Rose, president of ful wool flowers; Gorski’s diamond from metallic denim is balanced by tan Quebec-based brand Lana Lee, where woven sheared-beaver vest in red and trenchcoats with red piping, dark indigo wholesale prices ranged primarily from purple ($695). trousers and matching safari jackets. $18 to $40. On tunics and other tops, Although sportswear makes up 60 per- cowl-necks were everywhere. ACCESSORIES THE SHOW cent of the line, D’Loren plans to intro- Pure Sage and Chalet, both Los Key Trends: Nature-inspired jew- duce a separate sportswear license en- Angeles-based brands, dis- elry, such as metal leafs compassing dresses and women’s suits for played a cowl-necked and feathers from spring 2013. The difference between the oversize sweater for Urban Nature and two licenses is that Isaac Mizrahi Jeans’ $39 wholesale and Anju; adjustable wrap sportswear will be more casual and sold a long terry cowl- belts like those from in the denim department, he said. necked tunic for $41, Sacramento-based ADA Positioned to compete against Calvin respectively. Larry for $25 to $60. Klein Jeans and DKNY Jeans, the denim Ammon, who handles Show Buzz: Atlanta- styling is intended to be contemporary Chalet’s corporate sales, based PurseN’s Ooh enough to appeal to a customer in her said buyers were drawn La La lingerie travel 20s. Still, the fit also takes into consider- to the versatility of bags sparked a part- ation older women, with jeans that flatten cowl-necks that could nership with Spanx the tummy and sizes that run up to 32 for be worn around the for celebrity gifting. jeans and 12 for tops. Retail prices are neck or over shoulders. Los Angeles-based also primed for the masses, ranging from Show Buzz: Due to Lavender Girl’s head- $39.50 to $79.50 for tops, $69.50 to $108 for warm winter weather, bands for $6 to $65 jeans, $98 to $118 for dresses and $98 to buyers searched for ranged from single elas- $168 for outerwear. lightweight outerwear tic “bindi bands” to Cox expects Mizrahi’s high visibility to such as Madison Hill braided deerskin and be a plus. In addition to judging “Project New York’s denim filigree pieces worn Runway All Stars” on TV, he promotes a jacket for $39 whole- by Halle Berry, lower-priced line called Isaacmizrahilive! sale and vests for Jessica Alba and on QVC and designs costumes for the San $50 to $64. Buyers Scarlett Johansson. Francisco Ballet and Mark Morris Dance were also on the — WITH CON- Group. He’ll also be providing color com- hunt for plus-size TRIBUTIONS FROM mentary from the Oscars’ red carpet on MARCY MEDINA merchandise. Laura A beaver vest from Gorski at Moda. behalf of “Live! With Kelly.” KEENAN STEFANIE PHOTOS BY 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012 WWD.COM Macy’s, Saks Post Gains, Wal-Mart Lags

{Continued from page one} them constant feedback, is in its “first $2.92, from $1.98 in 2010, marking the de- inning.” Lundgren also cited progress partment store’s third consecutive year in the “site-to-store-to-door” fulfillment of significantly improved performance. program launched last year when 23 Net income rose to $1.26 billion from stores were given the capability to fulfill $847 million, while sales reached $26.4 orders emanating online or in store by billion from $25 billion the year before. customers who can’t find what they want Comparable-store sales rose 5.2 percent. in that particular location. About 290 For the fourth quar- of Macy’s 800 doors will ter ended Jan. 28, EPS have fulfillment capacity were $1.74 compared to Terry this year, Lundgren said. $1.55 the year before. Lundgren Macy’s said that, in the Sales were $8.7 billion fourth quarter, cosmet- ·· compared to $8.3 bil- ics, fragrances, shoes, lion. The results, solid handbags, watches, men’s at both the Macy’s and wear, textiles, house- Bloomingdale’s divisions, wares and furniture sold beat Macy’s expectations. the best. Cold weather For 2012, Macy’s ex- apparel, juniors and tra- pects comp-store sales to ditional casual women’s grow 3.5 percent, EPS of apparel were the weak- $3.25 to $3.30 and online est. However, this spring, Following earnings, shares of sales to top $2 billion. Macy’s has redesigned Wal-Mart slipped 3.9 percent.

Similar to Sadove’s its Charter Club private STEVE EICHNER SCOTT BY RUDD; LUNDGREN SADOVE PHOTO BY assessment, Lundgren label with greater embel- said consumers are feel- lishments and values to ing “a little bit better” bolster the segment. about their jobs and fi- At Saks, full-year Growth is going to come by taking nances compared to a earnings increased 56.3 year ago, even with pric- percent to $74.8 million, es at gas pumps starting or 45 cents a diluted market share and that’s what you saw to exceed $4 a gallon. share, from $47.8 mil- “While high gas prices lion, or 30 cents, a year Macy’s do in the last three years. will be part of our lives earlier. The operating at least through 2012, we income rate rose to 5.4 — TERRY LUNDGREN, MACY’S INC. have been experienc- percent of sales, up from ing [them] for a while 3.9 percent the year be- and our business con- fore and ahead of the $1.50 a year ago, and were 2 cents below Sam’s Club posted a 5.4 percent comp tinues to perform well,” 2007 pre-recession mar- Wall Street expectations. increase for the quarter. International Lundgren said. gin of 4.4 percent. Sales Consolidated net income for the quar- delivered $35.5 billion in sales in the Macy’s core strategies rose 8.2 percent to $3.01 ter ended Jan. 31 dropped 14.7 percent quarter and more than $125 billion for for lifting sales — My billion from $2.79 billion. to $5.16 billion from $6.06 billion in the the year. Square footage is expected to Macy’s localization of as- Saks expects comp sales year-ago period. For the year, income grow 4 percent to 5 percent in 2013, or 45 sortments, Magic Selling to rise 5 to 7 percent this dropped 4.2 percent to $15.7 billion from million to 49 million square feet. training for associates year, building on 2011’s $16.4 billion. Sales for the quarter came Comps for the 13-week period ending and omni-channel — are gain of 9.5 percent. to $122.28 billion, up 5.8 percent from the April 27 are expected to be flat or up 2 in the “very early stag- Stephen I. Saks boosted fourth- year before. Sales for year rose 5.9 per- percent. Net sales are forecast to grow 5 es.…Every time we sit Sadove quarter profits 48 percent cent to $444 billion from $419 billion. percent to 7 percent, or $22·· billion to $31 down and talk about the to $37 million, or 21 cents Wal-Mart this year expects profits billion, in 2013. My Macy’s progress, we a diluted share, from $25 from continuing operations to rise to “Every segment of our company is come up with great examples of what we million, or 16 cents, a year earlier. Sales $4.72 to $4.92 a diluted share — a range growing,” said Mike Duke, Wal-Mart’s are doing in certain markets and know for the three months ended Jan. 28 rose that shows growth from last year’s $4.54, ceo. “Wal-Mart’s 10,000th unit — a Sam’s we haven’t capitalized on it,” Lundgren 6.8 percent to $925.1 million from $866.3 but also opens up a potential shortfall Club — opened in Mexico in November.” said. A “Southern living strategy” that million on a 7.7 percent gain in comp- given the $4.90 analysts had penciled in. The Dow ended the day up 15.82 goes beyond just being aware of weather store sales. Adjusted earnings of 17 cents Wal-Mart U.S.’ comp-store sales gained points to 12,965.69, but traded as high as differences is being developed. “If you a share came in 3 cents ahead of analyst 1.5 percent in the fourth quarter. Total 13,004.97 — the second consecutive trad- go to a wedding in certain parts of the estimates. Saks also unveiled plans to U.S. comps, without fuel, rose 2.1 percent ing day the index has topped 13,000, a South, you see gentlemen wearing bow spend up to $95 million over the next four for the 13-week period ended Jan. 27. U.S. level not seen since 2008. The S&P Retail ties and seersucker fabrications. We just to five years to retool its merchandising, comps without fuel for the 52-week peri- Index slipped 0.32 points to 571.23, but think there is so much more opportuni- finance and human resource systems to od ended Jan. 27 rose 0.9 percent, as both jumped as high as 577.58 in intraday ty to really become the locally relevant support the omni-channel approach. Sam’s Club and Wal-Mart U.S. ended the trading, a new record for the index, store in every market,” Lundgren said. Wal-Mart, hampered by poor apparel year with positive comps. which goes back to 2002. Markets were He said the Magic Selling program, sales and its recent investment in every- Apparel, which was impacted by un- buoyed by a new rescue plan for Greece, which teaches the chain’s 130,000 sales day low pricing, said earnings tallied seasonably warm weather, had low-single- which has been struggling to avoid a de- associates selling techniques and gives $1.44 a share last quarter, compared to digit negative comps in the last quarter. fault on its debts. Accessories Brand Rodo Opens Boutique in Milan “It’s fundamental for the store to exalt the By LUISA ZARGANI exclusive quality and manual craftsmanship of our products,” explained Dori. MILAN — Rodo’s first boutique opens today The opening takes place as Rodo posted 26 in Milan with a cocktail gathering that kicks percent growth in revenues last year, reaching off fashion week events. 9 million euros, or $12.5 million at average ex- With its magnolia eco-leather padded change rates. Despite the challenging economy walls, herringbone wood floors and a sus- in Italy, Dori said it was essential for an Italian pended crystal staircase, the store is a sleek company to have exposure in a city as relevant backdrop for Rodo’s handmade and artfully in fashion as Milan. The executive said he was crafted bags and shoes. “It’s the perfect win- “very positive and confident” about future pros- dow to contextualize our product and what pects. The company is negotiating the opening of we’ve always desired,” said chief executive stores in Shanghai and Beijing by the end of the officer Gianni Dori of the venue, located in year, and plans to invest in additional banners in Milan’s central Corso Matteotti, a stone’s Asia over the next three years, in countries such throw away from Via Montenapoleone. as Japan, Malaysia, Indonesia and Vietnam. His father, Romualdo Dori, whose initial For the opening of the Milan boutique, Rodo syllables form the brand’s moniker, founded redesigned a 1971 handbag to create 15 limited the company in 1956, and Rodo continues edition Milano bags in shiny kidskin and golden to pride itself in the artisanal quality of its handles that retail for 790 euros, or $1,044 at products, made in Italy’s Marche region. current exchange. The brand’s precious metal or crystal embel- The family-owned brand, originally known lished clutches and sandals have been spotted for its wicker baskets, is designed by Dori’s on celebrities including Kate Winslet, Cate Rodo’s Milan shop. brother, Maurizio, who is now assisted by his Blanchett, Beyoncé Knowles and Jessica Alba. daughter Martina. ADVERTISEMENT

NEW YORK THE February 22, 2012 RUNWAY J. Mendel Michael Kors Jeremy Scott REPORT

What a week it was! Exceptionally tailored garments, luxuriously finished and made with great attention to detail, defined the fall 2012 collections. Elegance was key, and so was chic. Fur was everywhere, in remarkably innovative and creative adaptations—indicating that,

Philosophy di Alberta FerrettiAdrienne Landau Chado Ralph Rucci given the turbulent economic times, people are looking for strong value and investment pieces.

J. MENDEL computer graphics with references to well-known ani- a fur design pioneer. This collection introduced a few mated characters. Who can comprehend Jeremy Scott’s novelties, including a number of stenciled sheared fur J. Mendel’s fall 2012 collection felt like a beautiful inspiration? Regardless, we do love his unabashed pieces, ranging drastically in scope from classic glen- and airy symphony—one that began with an opus in cartoon world, full of silly fun and optimism. Besides plaid to beautiful cherry blossom sprays. The trompe white. The first all-white looks introduced the luxury cleverly designed “Pop” clothing, he introduced a l’œil effect is an innovative and welcome addition to an notes repeated throughout the collection: clever bright, rainbow colored chubby jacket in longhaired already expansive vocabulary that makes this designer touches of furs, silks and embroideries, and more than a goat. The look was surprisingly sophisticated, though a cross-generational favorite. It seems that there isn’t a few exotic skins. As the models continued their parade, still wildly colorful and unexpected. For those with less fur or treatment Landau hasn’t mastered. the intricacy of the garments progressed, beginning exotic tastes, he designed a polychrome equivalent in with the exquisitely embroidered 1920’s-style slinky shadow fox to great effect. gowns and building to the lush, textural coats with up CHADO RALPH RUCCI to eight types of fur. His multi-fur degradé coats were PHILOSOPHY DI ALBERTA FERRETTI Ralph Rucci is the closest thing there is to a national statement makers. And, along the way, there were a few treasure when it comes to American couture design. There is always something very au courant about fun surprises including a shadow fox, finn raccoon, and He is one of a handful of designers in history who has Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti. Season after season, ostrich feather skirt and a crocodile and mink clutch developed a style so distinct that it is recognizable the Ferretti finds a way to grab our attention with at least that is sure to become an Upper East Side favorite. world over. What Mr. Rucci has been missing all these two or three looks that are simply phenomenal. The years was vulnerability. This has changed with this new Ferretti woman is a no-nonsense, modern individual MICHAEL KORS collection, featuring looks that are airy and delicate, who embraces her style with simplicity. One example: without losing that Chado Ralph Rucci Midas touch. Who knew that cabin fever could be so chic? It looks her chic, tailored grey broadtail jacket with woolen The collection was undeniably younger and exuded a like Michael Kors fell under its spell when he designed notch lapel. This collection took an unexpected twist, newly rediscovered sense of femininity, while retaining this collection, though in this case it was more Aspen somewhat academic in this case, if not clinical. The its ultra-luxe sensibility—this time with a flirty wink. A chalet than Vermont lodge. Mr. Kors proves, once sleek looks brought to mind a glamorous scientist perfect example: his sheared mink sweatshirt. We are again, that he is the king of luxe sportswear. Mixing sporting sharp skirt-suits, shift-dresses, and coats. The obsessed with his fur treatments, especially his sleeves. buffalo checks, tartan plaids, and tweeds with bold, scientific reference read more closely with a few details The leopard-print tailored trapeze coat is a showstop- luxe furs and sleek, buttersoft leathers, he creates looks of PVC belts accessorizing the suit jackets and clear per; his red-dyed chinchilla cocoon sleeves are a force that translate equally well for city or country living. His overcoats covering wool and fur coats alike. The effect in fur construction. elegant beaded jersey gowns prove his ability to move was surprisingly elegant and void of any coldness. Now effortlessly from easy sophistication to full-on glamour. the question is, will her PVC overcoat be a fur piece’s It isn’t a secret that Kors loves to accent his collections new ally during bad weather? MORE RUNWAY LOOKS with strong statement furs. This season was no excep- At Bill Blass, designer Jeffrey Monteiro included a tion: fox, raccoon, and Mongolian lamb equally made ADRIENNE LANDAU plush black dyed fox coat to add drama to his clean, their mark, as did shearling, all exquisitely executed. Industry veteran Adrienne Landau showed a collection tailored collection. An ocelot printed shearling was a chic for fall 2012 that read like a film in three parts, each a standout among Ralph Lauren’s English country looks. JEREMY SCOTT unique design perspective expressed and translated in Reed Krakoff’s minimalist style was elegantly articulated Each fashion capital has its enfant terrible, the one fur. The Landau touch is free-hand and unapologetic. in a paprika lamb zipper vest that was understated who ruffles feathers and challenges conventions. In She puts her irreverent, creative stamp on a broad range and luxurious. And, at Wollman Rink in Central Park, New York this provocateur is undeniably Jeremy Scott. of fur types from rabbit to sable, always introducing Moncler Grenoble’s models skated across the ice in His collection was a rainbow coalition of colors and unexpected new treatments that have established her as fabulous fox jackets and trims that could make you melt.

 THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE CHOICE

Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860 West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.fur.org 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012 WWD.COM Cambodian Strikes Take Violent Turn U.S.-South Korea Pact were among 3,000 workers in the zone who had been pro- Nears Implementation By KRISTIANO ANG testing for higher wages and better working conditions WASHINGTON — Apparel brands are set to gain since last week. The other strikers were said to work for greater flexibility in their sourcing options and po- STRIKES BY APPAREL industry workers in an indus- Kingmaker Footwear and water sports apparel manufac- tential market expansion for their products with trial zone in the southeastern Cambodian province of turer Sheico, both Taiwanese-owned. the implementation of a free trade agreement with Svay Rieng turned violent this week with a shooting on On Monday, Puma had denied that Kaoway workers South Korea on March 15. Monday that injured three people. were on strike, saying, “Factory management…agreed The U.S. Trade Representative’s office said German sportswear label Puma confirmed that the to the demands raised during the general labor unrest Tuesday the date has been set, after the U.S. and incident took place Monday outside a factory run by in the region, although Kaoway Sports workers had not South Korea completed work over the weekend Kaoway Sports Ltd., one of its suppliers. Puma summa- participated in the demonstration.” On Tuesday, Puma and confirmed their legal requirements and proce- rized details of an initial investigation by the Garment said the strikes were not initiated by Kaoway employ- dures to bring the trade deal into force. Manufacturers Association in Cambodia, which had con- ees. It said, “Factory management has evacuated all “In a few short weeks, the promise of the U.S.- cluded that one worker was shot and in noncritical con- personnel from the compound to ensure the employees’ Korea trade agreement, including tens of thousands dition. Kaoway Sports is a member of GMAC. safety and workers have been sent home,” adding that of export-supported jobs with better wages, will On Tuesday, however, Puma said three female em- the factory would remain closed until further notice and start to come home for American businesses and ployees of Kaoway Sports had been injured in Monday’s that it would host meetings Tuesday and today with non- working families,” said USTR Ron Kirk. “President events. It also said that one of them was hospitalized in governmental organizations and trade unions to attempt Obama insisted that we get this agreement right by Phnom Penh, the Cambodian capital, and that a Puma to find a solution to the protests. forging a better deal that led to strong bipartisan official was en route to visit her, along with represen- Puma is one of the larger clothing labels to source support in both houses of Congress. Entry into force tatives from the Community Legal Education Center, a from Cambodia, and its operations in the Southeast of this agreement will open up Korea’s $1 trillion Cambodian human rights group. Asian country had been under scrutiny since 800 work- economy for America’s workers, businesses, farm- The Phnom Penh Post reported Tuesday that Buot ers at its suppliers’ factories fainted last April. After the ers and ranchers, while also strengthening our eco- Chinda, 21, was in critical condition after Monday’s mass faintings, it said that measures had been taken to nomic partnership with a key Asia-Pacific ally.” shooting. The Phnom Penh Post and China’s Xinhua improve workers’ conditions in its factories. South Korea was the eighth-largest apparel and News Agency said the three workers were shot by an un- The Manhattan Special Economic Zone is located textile supplier to the U.S. in 2011, with an import identified assailant who later fled the scene. about 50 miles from Ho Chi Minh City, the commercial volume of 1.3 billion square meter equivalents, Eyewitness accounts differ as to whether the gun- capital of neighboring Vietnam. According to its Web with textiles and home furnishings accounting for man was a factory security guard or dressed in police site, no export duty is charged for goods shipped to more than 95 percent of the total. uniform. It wasn’t possible to verify these accounts Europe and no import duty is levied on goods entering Importers acknowledge that South Korea won’t and Cheath Khemara, a senior GMAC official who was the zone. Companies that set up there are also exempt ever become a top platform for apparel production in Svay Rieng, did not respond to attempts Tuesday to from business income tax for up to nine years. Many of because of high wages, but a majority still sup- reach him for comment. the factories that have set up in the zone, which lists ported the trade deal as an opportunity for their The women were protesting outside a factory run the availability of abundant and low-cost labor as one of exports of finished apparel and footwear into the by Kaoway Sports, a Taiwanese-owned factory, when its advantages, are of Chinese origin and are involved lucrative South Korean market. the shooting took place. According to press reports, in textile or garment manufacturing. USTR said nearly 80 percent of U.S. exports of a police official said the strikers set fire to tires and The Cambodian apparel and footwear export indus- industrial products to South Korea will become destroyed factory property, but that they only fired try was valued at $4 billion last year and contributes duty free on March 15. Almost two-thirds of U.S. warning shots. Police are investigating the shooting to around 80 percent of the country’s exports. The $66 exports of agricultural products to South Korea, incident. a month minimum wage in Cambodia, where apparel including cotton, will also become duty free on Kaoway Sports, which makes footwear for Puma, is industry workers are largely female, is almost a third that date. The U.S. textile industry opposed the located in Svay Rieng’s Manhattan Special Economic lower than that of neighboring Vietnam’s $95. The ap- deal, saying it will open the U.S. market to a flood Zone. Xinhua quoted the provincial governor and the parel industry has been beset by several large-scale of cheaper South Korean textile imports that could area’s top police official saying that Kaoway workers strikes over the past year. hurt their business. — KRISTI ELLIS

fashion behind closed doors.

ISSUE 02 coming in april PREP WEEK: Jessica Chastain was among the guests at the “Vanities” party as Oscar Week kicked WWD STYLE off. PAGE 14

MEMO PAD

FOCUSING ON CAM: The football season may have ended, but there’s no real off-season for professional athletes. And so tonight, Under Armour will unveil its newest football commercial, “Cam’s Night Out,” on the NFL Network during the NFL Combine in

Under Armour’s “Cam’s Night Out.”

Indianapolis. The 60-second spot depicts a Friday night in the life of Carolina Panthers quarterback and 2012 Rookie of the Year Cam Newton. But instead of a dance club, Newton spends his night on the field, throwing passes, blocking and working on technique drills. Newton’s musical accompaniment is provided by producer AraabMuzik, pictured on a drum machine in the broadcast booth above the field, and his apparel of choice is Under Armour’s Baselayer and Highlight Cleats, which will debut on April 6. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

NO LONGER HOME ALONE: Members-only flash-sale site One Kings Lane has generated 3 million users in two years because it offers home accessories from brands such as Frette for 70 percent off. Now the site is eager to let more people know about its wares while not opening up to the hoi polloi, so it, like many sites in the space, is adding original editorial content that will be open to everyone. A new site from One Kings Lane, Live.Love.Home, is run by former editors of marthastewart.com, Elle Decor and T: The New York Times Style Magazine. “We’ll be the destination for those in their 30s and early 40s who are starting their own home,” said Kerstin Czarra, executive editor. She went on to describe what differentiates Live.Love. Cambridge Home from the competition. “[Online design magazine] Lonny is for younger people, Elle has that celebrity angle,” Visits Oxford she said. There are no advertisers signed on for the launch of As London Fashion Week wound down, the Duchess Live.Love.Home. “We’re not of Cambridge skipped the hubbub of the city a profit center, we’re more of a gateway for people outside for Oxford, where she sported Orla Kiely while the firewall, for people looking around the Web for content,” supporting Art Room, a charity that champions arts said Czarra. But give it some education in schools. For more, see page 14. time — that sentiment will probably change soon, too.

PHOTO BY CHRIS RADBURN/PA WIRE/PRESS ASSOCIATION IMAGES WIRE/PRESS ASSOCIATION CHRIS RADBURN/PA PHOTO BY — AMY WICKS 14 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012 FOR MORE PARTY PHOTOS, SEE Paula Patton Kate Stacy Keibler and WWD.com/ and Dania Mara Malin Akerman eye. Ramirez

Jessica Shailene Chastain Woodley in Alexander Vanity Set McQueen.

IT MAY HAVE BEEN Presidents’ “That was definitely a fun shoot,” Day, but Monday was a work-night in said Alice Eve of her Forties pinup- Hollywood. It is Oscar Week, after all. style portrait. Juicy Couture paired up with Vanity Also in the mix were Emmy Rossum, Fair to celebrate 20 years of “Vanities” Amy Adams, Rashida Jones, Mary Elizabeth portraits at Siren Studios, drawing a slew Winstead, Paula Patton, Molly Sims, Malin of starlets who reminisced about their Akerman, Tracee Ellis Ross, Jena Malone magazine moments. and Ali Larter. All the standing around “I remember Patrick Demarchelier in heels proved to be too much for a kept calling me ‘Baby’ the whole pregnant Marley Shelton, who by the time. I don’t think he knew my end of the evening stood barefoot in — MARCY MEDINA name,” recalled Jessica Chastain. the driveway. AMY GRAVES PHOTOS BY

Lily Drew Barrymore Collins and Milla Jovovich both eye in Marni. in Marni for H&M.

Sofia Coppola in Marni for H&M.

The Duchess of Cambridge in Orla Kiely. PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY PHOTO BY MARK CUTHBERT/UK PRESS/PRESS ASSOCIATION IMAGES PRESS/PRESS ASSOCIATION MARK CUTHBERT/UK PHOTO BY

Felicity Jones in Marni for Art School Value Added H&M. THE DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE nally retailed at 325 pounds, stayed far away from the fash- or $514 at current exchange, A FEW IN Los Angeles didn’t great you are doing this,” Winona night would also include a ion flock and braved the cold but is now on sale at 162.50 have to wait until March 8 to Ryder told Castiglioni. performance by Bryan Ferry. in Oxford, England, Tuesday pounds, or $257. get their hands on the Marni for Other Hollywood Marni “I used to walk to school and morning to show her support On arrival at Rose Hill H&M collection. On Friday, Sofia fans included Milla Jovovich, listen to ‘More Than This’ over for the Art Room, of which she Primary School, she was Coppola, Consuelo Castiglioni and Drew Barrymore, Rashida Jones and over. I loved Roxy Music,” is a patron. The organization greeted by crowds of cheer- Margareta van den Bosch hosted and Dianna Agron, while the said Ryder. maintains art studios in more ing children and presented a dinner party to celebrate the European crowd was repped Even Mel Gibson came to hear than 20 schools throughout with a bouquet of cream collaboration, for which Coppola by Lou Doillon, Noomi Rapace, Ferry sing without knowing Britain and helps children roses, an apron reading “Miss directed a video. Andrea Riseborough and a slew of anything about the reason for with behavioral problems by Catherine” and pet treats for “They’re the kinds of clothes models. Guests were impressed the party. encouraging them to paint her new cocker spaniel puppy. that you dream of wearing, so I by the templelike setting, “Everyone outside was and draw. Later, she looked on as eight thought it would be fun to do a called Sowden House, which asking me, ‘You mean you The duchess wore a brown children painted “The Owl daydream,” the director said. was designed by Frank Lloyd don’t know about Marni?’ I shirtdress with a dove motif and the Pussycat” poem onto “There are so many clothes Wright’s son, Lloyd Wright. don’t know what Marni is,” by Orla Kiely. The dress origi- canvas. — CATHERINE TIPPLE you can’t afford, so I think it’s Most didn’t realize that the Gibson said. — M.M. WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2012 15 WWD.COM

paillettes and a puffed skirt.” Even if Sharapova never designs rtw, she may have a career as a fashion critic. FASHION SCOOPS — SHARON EDELSON SHIFTING GEARS: Belstaff feted its relaunch revolved around a series of black-and- as a luxury goods brand on Saturday night Mia Tyler white television spots shot by Jean-Baptiste at Mark’s Club in Mayfair, with guests Mondino, starring rugged Spanish model including James Middleton, Jasmine Guinness, Jon Kortajarena in a feathered tuxedo. Tallulah Harlech, Patrick Cox, Caroline Sieber and Last week, a new global Kokorico Poppy Delevigne. After a dinner of British print campaign featuring a solo Pejic comfort food, including fish and chips, was shot in Paris by British artist, cottage pie and trifle, guests gathered for a photographer and DJ Matthew Stone. performance by the up-and-coming singer- Gaultier’s office did not respond to songwriter King Charles, whose debut album inquiries, but it seems the fragrance will be released this summer. may be launched to a wider market with Harlech said she’s set to star in a fashion Pejic as front man. Or perhaps front film written by her mother, Lady Amanda woman? — PATTY HUNTINGTON Harlech. “It’s about a woman and the different sides to her character, so I end up talking OPENING NIGHT: The Raoul brand will to different versions of myself wearing officially unveil its new Milan showroom different looks.” — STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER EICHNER

Friday and present its apparel collection MORELAND for fall today. Located in the city’s stately STYLING STARS: Celebrity stylists will take STEVE LEXIE

BY Palazzo Borromeo d’Adda, 39 on the tony center stage on March 14 at the inaugural 25 BY Via Manzoni street, this is the label’s first Maria Sharapova Most Powerful Stylists Luncheon, co-hosted PHOTO

foothold in Europe. PHOTO by The Hollywood Reporter and Jimmy Choo Raoul, whose designs have recently to coincide with the publication’s second THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LENS: Model been spotted on Academy Award eye — brocades, tweeds and tulles with pops annual 25 Most Powerful Stylists List. Rachel and actress Mia Tyler is pursuing a new nominee Viola Davis, was created and of color on a palette of blacks and grays.” Zoe topped last year’s list, followed by Kate career in photography and art. Tyler, launched in Singapore by husband-and- On Oscar de la Renta: “A blend of a Young and Petra Flannery. Rankings are based 33, will be displaying and selling her wife team Odile and Douglas Benjamin in classic ladylike looks with a modern twist on award-show red-carpet hits, number artwork at Riff, Andy Hilfiger’s pop-up 2002. The family’s FJ Benjamin group, a and intricate embellishment on traditional of nominees dressed, breakout style stars shop, at 313 Bowery in New York. leader in luxury brand development, is silhouettes or gorgeous ballgowns with made and a stylist’s personal brand-building “I like to photograph people, listed on the Singapore Stock Exchange. tulle skirts that looked as if they could initiatives. Not surprisingly, editors are abandoned places and my sister,” said There are currently 12 Raoul stores in float down the runway. My favorite look waiting until after the Oscars to make their Tyler, referring to her younger sister, South East Asia, and the brand is also was a white minidress adorned with final decisions. — MARCY MEDINA Chelsea Tyler, a 22-year-old model. A available in key department stores and private preview of Mia Tyler’s photos boutiques in the U.S., the U.K., Italy, will take place at Riff on Wednesday, and France, Russia and the Middle East. the gallery will open to the public on — LUISA ZARGANI Feb. 25. The Tylers are the daughters of Aerosmith front man Steven Tyler, ADDING SHOES: Alessandro Dell’Acqua has and the preview party is sponsored added a shoe line to his No. 21 women’s by Andrew Charles, the sportswear fashion brand. “Shoes currently line inspired by the rock star. Mia represent a fundamental part of women’s For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Tyler’s photography will be on display style, and now with this No. 21 footwear indefinitely at Riff, which opened for line, we are able to provide a total look the Andrew Charles line in October and coherent with the brand’s aesthetics,” has been going strong ever since, said said Dell’Acqua, who signed a two- a spokeswoman. — LISA LOCKWOOD year licensing agreement with Italian shoemaker Kallisté for the production MAKEUP IS A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND: MAC of his footwear collections.“With this Cosmetics will celebrate Marilyn license Kallisté aims to develop the Monroe’s legacy and iconic beauty look brand’s international business with Assistant Controller Premier apparel company seeking an with a limited edition color cosmetics a particular focus on new emerging assistant controller. Responsibilities collection, due at all worldwide MAC markets,” said Kallisté’s commercial include assisting with monthly finan- cial reporting, forecasting, variance locations in October. Launched in director Chiara Doni. analysis, cash flow and special projects partnership with Authentic Brands The shoe line, which made a soft debut including analysis of business per- formance metrics. 10+ years apparel Group LLC, which acquired the with the pre-fall collection, will be officially experience; CPA preferred. Resumes intellectual property of Marilyn Monroe launched during the fall-winter show to: [email protected] LLC in January 2011, the range will taking place in Milan on Feb. 22 at 6 p.m. HEAD DESIGNER feature about 30 custom-designed The collection, featuring an average Major, nationally branded label seeking stockkeeping units, priced from $15 to retail price of about 300 euros, or $394 someone to lead a team in creating a line, from start to finish. In addition to $27, and include eye shadows, lipsticks, at current exchange, will be distributed being hard-working and talented, the ideal candidate must possess min 5 nail lacquers and eyeliners. — BELISA SILVA by The Hive showroom in the U.S., years design experience in either dress and by Massimo Bonini Showroom in or sportswear, as well as the ability to di- rect a staff and work within a struc- PEJIC’S NEW GIG: According to sources, Europe and rest of the world. tured timeline; proficiency in Illustra- androgynous model Andrej Pejic has — ALESSANDRA TURRA tor, Photoshop and MS-office is a ma- Spaces jor plus, ability to multi-task a must! signed his first major beauty deal as Resumes to: [email protected] the face of Jean Paul Gaultier’s new MARIA’S ROLE MODELS: Maria Sharapova FACTORIES NEEDED Established dress company looking for DESIGNER ...... $75- $100k men’s fragrance, Kokorico. Gaultier’s found lots of inspiration during last JCPenney approved factories within COMMERCIAL Intimates, Sleepwear for Target/Kohl’s first men’s fragrance in 16 years since week’s New York Fashion Week. the NYC area to make knit and woven Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 sportswear; Inquiries to: REAL ESTATE [email protected] the launch of the best-selling Le Male, When she talks about the experience, [email protected] Kokorico was originally released in Sharapova sounds like an aspiring France last July. The launch ad campaign ready-to-wear designer. “I’m putting the finishing touches on my fall-winter SHARE SHOWROOM / 250 W. 39th 2012 Cole Haan collection,” she said. Big, brite, loft-style shrm space avail to Andrej Pejic “The use of a neutral color palette that PATTERNS, SAMPLES, share at once. private kitchen and PRODUCTIONS restrm, for market weeks or permanent. Vera Wang showcased in her show — gray Full service shop to the trade. Call 917.679.2243, will email photos and blush — is found in my Cole Haan Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 SALES EXECUTIVE Established Women’s Apparel Manu- collection. In thinking about spring- facturer seeks experienced sales exec- summer 2013 for Cole Haan, I found the utive to expand distribution of both branded and private label product. use of embellishment and rich materials Ideal candidate will have strong woven at the Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta background and established relation- Domestic & Import Sweater/Sportswear ships with moderate to better depart- shows, and the lace detailing at Rodarte, Manufacturer (vertical operation) ment and specialty store chains, cata- to be very directional.” Sharapova with strong infrastructure seeks logs and online retailers. Please send MERCHANDISING/SALES Counterpart resume in confidence to: collaborates with Nike on tennis Email: [email protected] [email protected] apparel and Cole Haan on footwear and handbags. “This was my second visit to New York Fashion Week,” Sharapova said. She offered her own show reviews. On Vera Wang: “The elegance of Vera Wang was breathless to watch. She worked elegant and romantic materials in a neutral gray and nude color tone.” On Rodarte: “From patterned coats EICHNER to knee-high lace-up boots, Rodarte

STEVE had a clever energy, opening the show

BY with one of my favorite U2 tunes.” (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] On Marc Jacobs: “It was the over-the- PHOTO top hats and the fabrics that caught my April 18 / Los Angeles

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