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NEW DISTRICT MARANT’S LOUIS VUITTON OPENS A STORE IN THE COMING TO MIAMI DESIGN DISTRICT. PAGE 10 MANHATTAN ISABEL MARANT GETS AMERICA THE WINDOWS AT ISAIA WILL UNVEIL ITS FIRST TWO THE BARNEYS NEW STORES IN THE U.S. YORK FLAGSHIP. THIS YEAR. PAGE MW8 PAGE 5

WWDTHURSDAY, APRIL 9, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY PENT-UP DEMAND As Spring Temps Rise, So Does Retail Outlook Going second-quarter profi t preview that By ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ “you’d have to be living under a rock not to know about the tepid ex- A STRONG U.S. dollar, the lingering pectations.” The Estimize.com con- impact of the West Coast ports shut- sensus expects the accumulative down and lousy weather in March average profi ts of the S&P 500 to Shear are expected to weigh-down profits show a decline of 1.5 percent year- of public companies in a variety of over-year and said “this would be industries — but retailers may get the lowest growth rate since 2009.” some spring in their step at last as The topline is also pegged for pent-up demand and higher con- a decline — about 1 percent down sumer confidence buoy the sector. from the same period last year. Analysts and economists are That said, Estimize.com noted essentially writing off the first there’s strength in the consumer quarter for retailers, saying better discretionary sector “with earnings times are ahead. Meanwhile, one growth expected to hit 15.4 percent analyst sees retail going through and revenues of 7 percent.” Within a “major transformation” and the this area, specialty retail — which innovators are from an unlikely includes apparel retailers — is ex- channel: department stores. pected to post an average earnings On the broader earnings front, gain of 19.4 percent. Estimize.com, which tracks all In a separate research report, sectors of the S&P 500, said in its SEE PAGE 5 Donna Karan and Parsons Link on Program in Haiti for Haitian artists in Port-au- By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Prince. Whether showing off oversize leather necklaces, to- NEW YORK — In the soothing, bacco leaf vases, papier-mâchè calm of Urban Zen, Donna Karan , a yoga mat bag made was a whirlwind of energy, darting from recycled T- or intri- around the precisely appointed cate iron-work designs, Karan space with boundless enthusiasm had a one-size-fits-all descrip- as she pointed out the details and tion: “This is Haiti.” craftsmanship of the numerous She would know, having vis- Haitian-made designs. ited the country multiple times The designer certainly has in the past fi ve years to work with reason for such zealousness, artisans such as Pascal Thearad, having recently partnered with Cookie Villard, Shelley Fox and Parsons The New School for Jean-Paul Sylvaince. The unlikeli- Design to open DOT, the Design, of a hip West Village designer Organization, Training Center SEE PAGE 12 Going Shear The shearling is the key outerwear piece in the men’s market for the fall season, channeling a retro Seventies Ryan O’Neal in “Love Story.” While the length continues to dominate, many of the styles are updated with utilitarian details and a more sporty silhouette. Here, Neil Barrett’s shearling coat, wool turtleneck, worn with Coach’s wool pants. For more on the shearling trend, see pages MW6 and MW7.

PHOTO BY ELI SCHMIDT MODEL: ALEXEY G./ADAM MODELS; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA MODEL: ALEXEY G./ADAM MODELS; STYLED BY 2 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 9, 2015 WWD.COM

P&G Still Weighing Beauty Options THE BRIEFING BOX care unit, cosmetics brands and fragrance business. By EVAN CLARK The potential buyers included Henkel AG & Co., IN TODAY’S WWD Revlon Inc., Unilever, Kao Corp. and Coty Inc. PROCTER & GAMBLE Co. is still looking for the Some brands could also be sold in one-off deals. exit for at least parts of its massive beauty portfolio. Frédéric Fekkai is said to be looking to take advan- The consumer products giant’s chairman and tage of the turmoil of restructuring to buy back his A look from Liseanne chief executive offi cer, A.G. Lafl ey, steered the luxe hair-care brand, which hasn’t fared so well Frankfurt’s new company on a course last year that has it cutting as under P&G’s control. collection. For many as 90 of its 160 brands. While about 35 busi- A P&G spokesman said: “The brands that we will more, see WWD.com. nesses, including giant brand Duracell, have been retain will be category leaders that are structural- offl oaded, beauty is still hanging in the balance. ly attractive and play to our core strengths. Every “They didn’t get the level of interest that they brand that we plan to keep will be strategic with thought they would,” said one fi nancial source of the potential to grow and create value.” P&G’s efforts to sell off some of its beauty brands. The process will yield a more profi table and eas- “Everybody knows they’re underperforming ier to operate company, the spokesman said. brands, but they’ve asked a pretty rich price.” It’s a complex situation and a sale of the P&G has a sprawling portfolio of brands — from broad swath of the portfolio or a public offering the relatively small Frédéric Fekkai and Max Factor could hinge on how much traction the brands to ones with more than a billion dollars in sales, in- fi nd in the market. cluding Wella, SK-II, Olay and Pantene. During the Citigroup stock analyst Wendy Nicholson said in last fi scal year, ended June 30, net sales at the beauty a recent note to clients that P&G could exit Wella, business fell 2 percent to $19.51 billion. Sebastian Professional, Fekkai, the fragrances That’s a large and diverse business to unwind, unit, CoverGirl and Max Factor. She cited SK-II and even if some brands stay at the company. Clairol as somewhat more remote possibilities. All Sources said Goldman Sachs was hired to both together, those brands represent sales of $7.4 bil- A strong U.S. dollar and lousy weather in March are expected look for buyers for some of the brands and explore lion, according to Citigroup’s reckoning. to weigh down profi ts of companies in a variety of industries — a potential initial public offering of at least part Divestures of just those brands would leave P&G but retailers may get some spring in their step at last. PAGE 1 of the business. That dual-track structure helps still very much in the beauty game, though. P&G keep its options open, and if it can’t negoti- “We believe that P&G remains very much com- Donna Karan partnered with Parsons The New School for ate the price it wants with a private equity or stra- mitted to the beauty business generally, and as Design to open DOT, the Design, Organization, Training Center tegic player, the company can fall back on an IPO. such, will likely not sell its core brands of Pantene, for Haitian artists in Port-au-Prince. PAGE 1 Goldman declined to comment. Head & Shoulders and Olay (even despite the con- Bloomberg News reported that P&G sent out sale siderable challenges in these businesses in recent Chinese consumers and China-based analysts agree that documents to potential bidders for its Wella hair- years,” Nicholson said. Chanel’s worldwide price realignment, which went into force Wednesday, is a positive one. PAGE 4

Converse has entered into settlement agreements with The RealReal Raises $40M in Funding Fila and Iconix Brand Group in a trademark infringement case pending before the U.S. International Trade Commission. PAGE 4

By SHARON EDELSON Isaia is embarking on a store rollout plan that will include the The RealReal authenticates items, inspecting and opening of its fi rst two fl agships in this country this year. The guaranteeing that they are genuine. LUXURY CONSIGNMENT Web site The company operates nine stores around the world. PAGE MW8 RealReal has landed its largest round of fund- ing to date — $40 million — to accelerate growth Jack Mitchell’s arms must be tired — the chairman of toward profitability. Mitchells Family of Stores has been hugging customers for The Series D funding was led by Industry more than a decade already. PAGE MW9 Ventures with other new investors E.ventures Growth, Greycroft Growth and DBL Partners. Louis Vuitton will unveil permanent digs in Miami’s Design Existing investors Canaan Partners and InterWest District that represents the new, modern look of the brand, while Partners are also participating in this round, bring- paying homage to Miami Beach’s architectural history. PAGE 10 ing the company’s total funding to $83 million. The RealReal, which posted revenue of $100 Shinola has unleashed a round of ads focusing on the million in 2014, declined to project a date when Apple that take jabs at the smartwatch’s extensive the business will move into the black, saying only that “the funding will help us get to near-term capabilities. PAGE 11 profi tability.” The cash infusion will allow the site to continue With 3.5 million members, The RealReal has Today, SoulCycle will launch its fi rst app in the Apple iOS its growth while also making investments in long- sold 1 million items since 2011. The Web site, store and a campaign online, #OhAppyDay. PAGE 11 term scalability. which is becoming a cash generator for its con- “This new round of funding will be instrumen- signors, is expected to pay consignors more than tal in allowing us to double our revenue [this year] $100 million from the resale of their luxury prod- ON WWD.COM while driving toward profi tability, both of which ucts. Wainwright believes traditional retailers are priorities for the company in 2015,” said and designers are the benefi ciaries of consign- Markets: Jewelry designer Liseanne Frankfurt is bringing Julie Wainwright, founder and chief executive of- ors’ earnings as they are using the money to buy the luxurious whimsy of her LFrank line to a new collection fi cer of The RealReal. “In addition, we’re laser- new luxury goods. “Over the last four years we’ve of lingerie. For more, see WWD.com. focused on scaling the business operationally and established ourselves not only as the trusted re- continuing to provide our members with the best seller of luxury goods online, but also as a con- authenticated luxury shopping and consigning ex- tributor to the luxury life cycle,” Wainwright CORRECTION perience anywhere.” said. “In surveying our consignor-base, we’ve The gauntlets Ralph Lauren showed as part of his fall collection The RealReal, which launched in 2011, takes found an interesting trend — many are using the were faux fur. The brand has had a policy against using real fur possession of merchandise and authenticates items money they make consigning with us to purchase since 2007. This was incorrect in a story on page 6, Wednesday. up-front, inspecting and guaranteeing that they new luxury items from retailers like Neiman are genuine. Consignors receive between 60 and Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New 70 percent of the sale price. The company offers a York. This year alone, we’ll return over $100 mil- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA white glove service where luxury managers visit an lion to consignors, much of which will be put @ WWD.com/social individual’s home to advise them on the consign- back into the luxury retail market.” ment process and pick up their items. The service The RealReal’s fastest-growing categories is its TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. is available in 18 major U.S. cities. fi ne jewelry and watch category, which leaped 251 WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. The RealReal employs specialists in fi ne jew- percent year-over-year from 2013 to 2014, and is ex- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 72. THURSDAY, APRIL 9, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays elry, and art and a large team verifi es the pecting a 250 percent increase in 2015. Men’s fash- and holidays, with one additional issue in March, June, August, September, October, November and December, and two provenance of apparel, , handbags and ac- ion jumped 225 percent year-over-year from 2013 to additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals cessories. Top sellers on the site include ready- 2014. The category is expecting growth of 125 per- postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to-wear and handbags from Chanel, Hermès and cent in 2015. to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, Louis Vuitton; jewelry and watches from Cartier, “We’re proud to be leading this new round P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at Rolex, and Van Cleef & Arpels, and art by Andy of funding for The RealReal to help support wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Sam Francis, among their focus on driving to profi tability in an im- Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected others. According to the company, most items sell portant market segment,” said Victor Hwang of address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you for 90 percent off retail prices. Examples of The Industry Ventures. “We initially invested in The are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues RealReal’s rarefi ed products include a two-tone RealReal through a secondary transaction, and contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production black and orange crocodile Hermès Birkin hand- as a Limited Partner in Canaan Partners and correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. bag for $55,000. A crocodile Birkin 30 for InterWest Partners, we have followed the compa- For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. $25,000 notes that a comparable bag was listed ny and been immensely impressed by their phe- To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED at auction for $70,000. Van Cleef & Arpels hand- nomenal growth and operationally sound busi- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND hammered gold cuffs are $59,000; the Web site ness. We’re excited to watch them take the next TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED notes that a similar pair were seen on Jacqueline step and further solidify their position as the TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Kennedy Onassis. leader in the luxury consignment space. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. A D C LO S E A P R I L 15

TRANSFORMATIVE COMPREHENSIVE PROVOCATIVE AUTHORITATIVE

THE NEW WEEKLY LAUNCH LAUNCH APRIL 29

WWD_HAD_FINAL.indd 2 4/7/15 4:19 PM 4 WWD thursday, april 9, 2015 Uniqlo Joins JD.com Stable Chinese Consumers Laud last-mile delivery network, which has proven to Chanel Price Decreases By CASEY HAll be an advantage in China’s e-commerce market,” SHANGHAI — Though it might not be the right move for every he said. “We expect that the secure and seam- luxury brand, Chinese consumers and China-based analysts SHANGHAI — Uniqlo will soon become the latest less shopping experience that JD.com offers will agree that Chanel’s worldwide price realignment, which went international brand to open a flagship on Chinese turn many shoppers into new Uniqlo customers in into force Wednesday, is a positive one. e-commerce platform JD.com. China, which is one of our most important over- Some boutiques in China had already begun lowering prices for Fresh from the Chinese government’s an- seas markets.” three of its most iconic handbags in advance of Wednesday’s price nouncement last month that it will ease regula- JD.com, which last month reported a 73 per- harmonization deadline. An 11.12 model, previously priced at 3,550 tions in order to promote the country’s booming cent year-on-year increase in revenues for its euros in Europe, will now cost 4,260 euros, while the same bag in e-commerce sector, JD Mall chief executive officer fourth quarter through December, has spent the China, previously 38,200 yuan, has dropped to about 30,000 yuan. Haoyu Shen believes more and more internation- past year aggressively expanding its logistics net- Meanwhile, the price of a Boy bag will rise to 3,720 euros from al brands will join JD.com in order to gain access work in China. The network hasn’t been utilized 3,100 euros in Europe, and fall from 32,700 yuan to about 26,000 yuan. to the country’s massive online market. by other international companies on its roster, Shoppers at Shanghai’s high-end Plaza 66 mall, which houses “The shift toward e-commerce in China is un- such as Gap, which controls its own distribution boutiques from brands including Chanel, Céline, Dior and many mistakable, and it’s equally clear that the govern- from its JD.com flagship. more international luxury brands, universally welcomed the move. ment and global brands are embracing the trend. “It’s tremendously gratifying that international “I love Chanel,” said office worker Tessa Feng, 32, out shop- Companies that fail to jump on board risk losing out brands like Uniqlo, which has been in China for ping with her husband and toting a 2.55 Classic flap bag from the on the Chinese market — which is why we are see- years and knows the market well, appreciate the French house. “I think many more people will buy Chanel prod- ing so many new brands joining JD.com,” he said. unique value of our same- and next-day delivery ucts in China and not wait until they or their friends travel if the As for why the Japanese fast- retailer network. Just as we want to be associated with the price is only 5 percent different or so.” — which already boasts more than 300 stores on quality of Uniqlo, they want to be associated with Some consumers expressed concern for how European cus- the Mainland and has had a presence on Alibaba’s JD.com’s superior service,” Shen added. tomers would handle the price adjustment, given they will have Tmall platform since 2009 — decided to partner Though it won’t officially launch until April 17, to pay about 20 percent more for a selection of products. with JD.com, rather than setting up an indepen- Uniqlo is currently offering exclusive discounts “This is great for Chinese, we are laughing, but the French dently operated online flagship here, Uniqlo to JD.com shoppers in order to build buzz for the people must be so angry. Chanel is a French company and they Greater China ceo Pan Ning pointed to JD.com’s flagship. are raising the prices in France. Chinese customers would defi- extensive logistics as a major advantage. Other global fashion and apparel brands avail- nitely be unhappy if a Chinese brand did this,” said Shanghai- “We are excited to be offering our customers able on JD.com include Gap, levi’s, lacoste, based schoolteacher Zengdong Yang. the use of JD.com’s amazingly fast, and trusted Marks & Spencer and Skechers. Others who welcomed the move from Chanel didn’t expect more brands to rush’’ into a similar pricing strategy, given the po- tential for devaluing a label’s reputation if it was sold at a lower price point. “It’s not a wise choice, I think, as Chinese custom- ers are used to buying high-price goods as ‘luxury products’ they Yang Li Sells Minority Stake believe are real, compared to other cheap ones,” executive as- sistant Joanna You, 24, said. Smith Street Solutions consumer and retail director James By MIlES SOCHA A runway look Button agreed that it was the kind of move a high-profile, exclu- from Yang Li. sive first mover such as Chanel could benefit from, but not every PARIS — Expanding its investments beyond its home luxury brand. Chanel customers aren’t necessarily as price-driven country, Belgian fashion fund ClCC SA said it has as those shopping for other brands, he pointed out, and many firms taken a minority stake in london-based fashion de- are benefiting equally from having Chinese consumers spend in signer Yang li. overseas stores rather than at home, meaning a price adjustment The size of the stake and financial terms were not wouldn’t necessarily impact on the company’s bottom line. disclosed. “Chanel is in a position where they can do this because they Beijing-born li, who has presented his signature women’s and men’s collections in Paris since 2011, said the investment would ensure “financial stability,” allow him to steadily expand his team and forge stronger rela- I think many more people will buy tions with new and existing clients and suppliers. li’s collections are carried in specialty stores in- Chanel products in China and not cluding Dover Street Market, Selfridges, l’Eclaireur, Joyce, Maxfield and Barneys New York. A men’s wear wait until they or their friends travel. graduate from Central Saint Martins who did a stint at Raf Simons, li is known for his minimalist, indus- trial-tinged garments tailored in leather and double- — Tessa Feng, consumer face fabrics. ClCC is an upstart fund backed by shipping mag- set the bar. It’s not as clear-cut for other brands. It’s going to nate Pierre Cigrang and his family. It also holds in- depend on how they view their China retail network and what in Brussels-based jewelry brand Kim Mee their strategy is,” Button said. “You have this phenomenon where Hye, Belgian fashion brands A.F. Vandevorst and some brands are using their China stores as a showroom, so you Christian Wijnants, as well as the designer label have to work out whether it’s worth trying to shift that spend WeberHodelFeder and the online luxury retailer back to China, in which case a pricing adjustment may make a Crest & Co. lot of sense, or if their consumers will continue to shop overseas ClCC director Antony Verbaeys asserted that li’s anyway and China is going to remain a showroom, that involves a “understated luxury” and tailoring savoir-faire “per- different retail strategy.” fectly reflect the wishes of present-day fashion con- On the other hand, Michael Zakkour, a principal at Tompkins sumers.” International and coauthor of the book “China’s Super Consumers,” The Cigrang family has been in the sea freight thinks every brand should seriously consider bringing’’ their main- business since 1928. Brothers Pierre and Christian land China pricing into line with prices elsewhere. “Chinese luxu- Cigrang got their first taste of fashion in the Nineties ry buyers now have a great incentive to buy Chanel close to home. when they invested in Raf Simons’ namesake label. Chanel understands that consumers love and engage with its brand and acknowledges a more globalized marketplace where borderless e-commerce and increased travel mean that brands have to inte- grate their operations across continents and no longer treat them as completely separate entities,” he said. “In fact, I have been guiding my luxury and premium brand clients on this strategy for over two Fila and Iconix Settle With Converse years. It’s a must move for many brands.” In any case, analysts believe Chanel’s price realignment edly infringing shoes. But Wal-Mart Stores Inc. will foil the resale, or “dai gou” market in China, which is fu- By KRISTI EllIS has vowed to fight the claims. eled by agents purchasing goods overseas and reselling them to Among the other major retailers named in Mainland consumers. WASHINGTON — Converse Inc. has entered into the ITC complaint were Kmart and Skechers. “Dai gou agents only exist as long as the price discrepancies settlement agreements with two additional com- Converse also filed lawsuits in federal court justify their trips abroad. Some luxury bags can cost up to 80 per- panies — Fila USA and Iconix Brand Group — in against the companies. cent more in Beijing than Paris, making this parallel industry a broad trademark infringement case pending be- Converse claimed in the complaint that all of the an enticing one. Once consumers can buy at home without the fore the U.S. International Trade Commission, ac- defendants have infringed on its iconic midsole trade- huge variance, the need for dai gou agents will decrease,” said cording to ITC documents. mark design made up of a toe bumper and a toe , Angelito Tan, cofounder of RTG Consulting. Converse, owned by Nike Inc., filed a complaint plus either an upper stripe and/or lower stripe, asso- But Button pointed out that, though dai gou sales would be against 32 retailers and manufacturers in October ciated with its “All Star” high-top that were severely curtailed by lower prices on the Mainland, this may alleging they infringed on some of the brand’s trade- introduced in 1917 and renamed “Chuck Taylor” after not have a direct one-to-one correlation with sales in mainland marks used in certain shoes. The ITC initiated an a Converse salesman and basketball player. China boutiques. investigation against the companies in November. In redacted versions of the separate settlement “In terms of what this means in China sales, there will be an in- Several companies, including Tory Burch, Aldo agreements on the ITC Web site, Fila and Iconix crease, but it may not be as much as Chanel is expecting,” he said. Group, Hennes & Mauritz, Zulily Inc. and Ralph have separately agreed to stop importing the in- “The dai gou is being forced out, but the consumer still may lauren Corp. have entered into settlement agree- fringing products and cease and desist from man- not be able to afford the full price, so that shopper may switch ments with Converse since the complaint was ufacturing, advertising, promoting, selling, distrib- to a VIP shop or online discount sales site, but is not necessarily filed and have agreed to stop importing the alleg- uting and supplying them around the world. going to be shopping in a Chanel store.” — C.H. WWD thursday, april 9, 2015 5 WWD.COM Marant Talks Barneys, Business and Brand Identity actually place an order, but it did and Freedman and sculptor — otherwise her business By JESSICA IREDALE now the store can’t get enough of her. In Arnold Goron, with whom wouldn’t be growing at this fact, Marant’s business has never been Marant works on her own re- level, which is nice and very ISABEL MARANT has a clear memory of bigger or better with the retailer, accord- tail installations. She’s doing rare,” said Vitale. her first experience with Barneys New ing to Daniella Vitale, Barneys’ chief op- an in-store appearance and Yet Marant is currently York. “It was 1996 or 1997. I came to do my erating officer and senior executive vice Barneys’ chief executive of- content to keep things steady first show in America,” the Paris-based president. “She’s so successful with us ficer Mark Lee is hosting a and on her own terms. “I’m designer said last week as the retailer not only because of the aesthetic and the dinner for her at his home on Isabel very happy about being in- put the finishing touches on windows clothes and the spirit, but because it’s not April 9. It’s a distinction re- Marant dependent, being sold in the dedicated to her spring line. “It was not available everywhere,” said Vitale. “She served for brands with which nicest department stores all my very first collection, but it was at my has very few of her own stores and that’s Barneys does brisk business. over the world,” she said. very beginning. I remember this perfectly what makes it covetable to us. It’s harder Dries Van Noten was the last designer to “But my aim with my label is not to be on because I was trying on the clothes for and harder to find things like that.” receive a reception at Lee’s house. all the corners. I would like to keep a cer- Terence [Bogan, former buyer for Co-op, To celebrate Marant, the store is cur- Marant doesn’t visit New York often, tain confidentiality even if it’s not, really. who predates much of the current execu- rently devoting all of its Madison Avenue and when she does it’s usually to shoot I think when things become too much it tive team]. We had a lot of fun.” windows to her in a collaboration with her campaign with Inez van Lamsweerde becomes a bit disgusting.” It took a few seasons for Barneys to Barneys’ creative director Dennis and Vinoodh Matadin, which is on the Having a flagship in key cities and books for this trip, along with Barneys maybe a fragrance or a handbag launch and not much else. “I’m afraid I’m not down the line are possibilities, but on The Madison Avenue windows at Barneys going to have much time to do things by the back burner for now, as is the idea of New York, featuring Isabel Marant’s spring myself,” she said of her stay in the city. selling a stake in her company to a major collection and Arnold Goron sculptures. The designer likes to keep a low pro- investor. “It’s not our next step for sure,” file, at least philosophically. She’s been she said of taking on a partner. “I’m not in business for more than 20 years, some- saying no because I never know what’s thing of a best-kept French fashion secret going to happen.” until about five or six years ago. Marant That should come as good news to her started working with an agent in the U.S., very loyal tribe, as Marant herself is the which made her collection more vis- filter for her collection’s creative direc- ible at retail, and opened her first store tion. The very French mix of tomboy and in New York in 2010 and Los Angeles flirt change course — one season surf in 2013. (Two more are slated, for San and Elvis Presley, another French-Breton Francisco and Miami.) Then there was stripes and military — but her brand the wedge sneaker phenomenon and an identity is rock solid. “You always have H&M collaboration that sent her popu- the [familiar] feeling because there is a larity skyrocketing. Industry insiders real name and real person behind all the see her as a brand with major growth po- collections,” said Marant. “Any inspira- tential. “People are still discovering her tion is always seen through my eyes.”

Silixnx Txttxn Cxuxitwx Exitx Lxréxal Bxaidzsvi sectors of the S&P 500, said in its second-quarter profit preview that

“you’d have to be living under a rock not to know about the tepid ex- pectations.” The Estimize.com con- sensus expects the accumulative average profits of the S&P 500 to show a decline of 1.5 percent year- over-year and said “this would be ’’ the lowest growth rate since 2009.” The topline is also pegged for a decline — about 1 percent down from Bright Retail Outlook Seen Despite 1st-Quarter Snags the same period last year. That said, Estimize.com noted there’s strength {Continued from page one} in the consumer discretionary sec- tive officer, is fresh out of numerous meetings with retail- Telsey also expects an “economic tailwind” fueled tor “with earnings growth expected IHS Global Insight chief U.S. economist Doug Handler said ers and vendors, and her “Big Picture Trend” is bright. by shoppers with money to spend. She said retailers to hit 15.4 percent and revenues of 7 between trade flow interruptions, bad weather and weak “Coming out of fourth-quarter discussions regarding 2015 have an opportunity “not to just take share, but there is percent.” Within this area, specialty consumer spending, the first quarter will be a washout for and beyond with corporate executives, sales associates increased confidence that the overall pie of consumer retail — which includes apparel re- many companies. “Like last year’s first quarter, this period and customers, the word ‘transformation’ is coming up spending can grow.” tailers — is expected to post an aver- will not provide much guidance regarding longer-term eco- regularly as companies are changing how they operate This will take investments, and not everyone will win. age earnings gain of 19.4 percent. nomic trends,” Handler said. “Also like last year, a midyear and are adjusting their growth plans,” she said in a report. It’s an understatement to say the market is highly competi- In a separate research report, rebound is expected.” Telsey and her team said the period after the 2008 tive at this point. But one channel may be innovating better He added: “Measuring the impact of trade flows remains recession was one where companies tightened belts, than others. “What we are seeing coming out of these discus- problematic with the rise in the dollar and the impact of worked on balance sheets and made investments in sions with consumer business executives is that the depart- the West Coast dock disruptions. Because of the port issues, ment store sector seems to be ahead of the curve,” Telsey both export and import volumes fell in the first quarter, but said, “with Nordstrom offering specialty store brands, since imports fell more than exports, the narrowing trade like Madewell and Lorna Jane, in their full-line stores, or deficit will add to GDP growth in the first quarter. A larger What we are seeing coming Macy’s now featuring Sweaty Betty in Bloomingdale’s or issue is that manufacturing and wholesale supply chains purchasing specialty store concepts [such as beauty retailer were interrupted, affecting shipments and production.” out of these discussions with Bluemercury] that offer a differentiated product line or That last point could spell trouble for certain spe- service experience in order to help enhance their full-line cialty apparel retailers and department stores — sev- consumer business executives stores, driving both sales and traffic.” eral of which noted in quarterly reports last month Regarding the West Coast ports shutdown, the road that the disruptions at the ports already squeezed to recovery is well underway, according to the monthly money from their bottom lines. Rising consumer con- is that the department Global Port Tracker report issued by the National Retail fidence may help reverse some of these negatives. The Federation and Hackett Associates on Wednesday. The Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index scaled store sector seems to be ahead report noted that import cargo volume for major retail more than the 100-degree mark for March following a container ports will rise eight percent in April “over the decline in February, and a bold jump in January. of the curve. same time last year as West Coast ports continue to re- In a report issued by Morgan Stanley on Tuesday, an- cover from a backlog of cargo that built up before a ten- alyst Paula Campbell Roberts said preliminary March — dana telsey, telsey advisor group tative new labor agreement was signed.” sales data show an uptick for department stores. The Port volumes are expected to rise in subsequent months “early read” has the segment posting a 0.9 percent sales technology “in a limited way.” Now, “corporations are as well, according to the report. The NRF’s vice president gain for the month. “March department store sales like- fully changing their business models in order to suc- for supply chain and customs policy Jonathan Gold said ly improved month-over-month driven by more normal- ceed in the future,” Telsey said. “We are now entering there’s cargo still waiting to be loaded on trains and trucks, ized weather and the Easter holiday shift,” she wrote. a period of higher investment spending given the more and then delivered. Gold said in the report that the “situa- At Telsey Advisor Group, Dana Telsey, chief execu- radical transformation of businesses.” ’’ tion is getting better, but we’re still far from normal.” MW6 WWD Thursday, april 9, 2015 Men’s Week

Boglioli’s lamb Billy Reid’s shearling , Paul shearling Smith’s nylon wool jacket, Louis and mohair Vuitton’s wool and Carven’s leather and cashmere pants. George Frost’s and Patrik beaded necklace. Ervell’s cotton and silk pants.

Photos by eli schmidt

Louis Vuitton’s shearling peacoat; Acne Studios’ wool, acrylic alpaca turtleneck, and No. 21’s wool and polyamide pants.

Shearling Show

The retro Seventies shearling coat is making a big comeback for fall in a variety of versatile styles, from bomber to more traditional car coat silhouettes. — ALEX BADIA MW6 WWD Thursday, april 9, 2015 Men’s Week Men’s Week WWD Thursday, april 9, 2015 MW7

Boglioli’s lamb Billy Reid’s Sacai’s coat Ports 1961’s cotton shearling jacket, Paul shearling and No. 21’s wool and jacket with shearling Smith’s nylon wool jacket, Louis polyamide pants. lining and Louis and mohair sweater Vuitton’s wool Vuitton’s cotton pants. and Carven’s leather and cashmere pants. George Frost’s shirt and Patrik beaded necklace. Ervell’s cotton and silk pants.

Photos by eli schmidt

Louis Vuitton’s Acne Studios’ lab fur Carven’s alpaca shearling peacoat; and cow , blend aviator jacket, Acne Studios’ wool, Dior Homme’s wool and Valentino’s wool acrylic alpaca cashmere turtleneck and sweater and Burberry turtleneck, and Valentino’s wool pants. Prorsum’s wool pants. No. 21’s wool and polyamide pants. rganic; fashion assistants: frederick marfil and kayana cordwell frederick marfil and kayana assistants: rganic; fashion o tarkweather tarkweather s rtists using rtists a

a V l tarkweather at at tarkweather s ndy ndy a rooming by rooming by Shearling Show g

The retro Seventies shearling coat is making a big comeback for fall in a variety of versatile styles, from bomber jackets to more traditional car coat silhouettes. — ALEX BADIA model: alexey g./adam models; MW8 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 9, 2015 Men’s Week Subhead Isaia Opening First U.S. Flagships WWD.com/ menswear-news. by JEAN E. PALMIERI A rendering of the Beverly Hills IsAIA Is REAdy to make its mark on the retail scene. store, which will be on Brighton Way. The Italian luxury men’s wear brand is embarking on a store rollout plan that will include the opening of its first two flagships in this country this year. The company operates nine stores around the world. “We started opening stores in 2009,” said Gianluca Isaia, the company’s global chief executive officer and third gen- eration of the family to helm the privately held business. “We opened our first flagship in Milan, then some mono- brand stores through…franchise partners in Moscow, Baku [Iran], saint Petersburg [Russia], Kiev [Ukraine], Hong Kong, yekaterinburg [Russia] and Macau [China]. Now we’re going XXXX XXXX XXXXX to open in Los Angeles in June, Tokyo in July and New york City in september.” XXXXX XXXXX XXXX Isaia said even though the company was founded in Naples in the Twenties and now sells to more than 230 stores XXXX XXX XXXXX XXX X in the U.s., Europe, Canada, the U.K., China, Japan and Russia, he believes this is the right time to expand the retail XXX XXXX XXX XXX XX” footprint. “Today, we have a strong position in the market and the — XXXXX XXXXXX brand has found its own identity,” Isaia said, describing the company’s aesthetic as “a mix between tradition and a con- temporary way to interpret the Napolitano sartorial posi- tioning for the new gentleman.” He said the U.s. represents just under 50 percent of the brand’s annual sales, which were 41 million euros, or around $44.6 million at current exchange, in 2014. “The U.s. is very strong for us,” he said. The other areas of strength for the Headline Goes brand are the “ex-soviet Union,” he said, as well as Japan and China, the latter of which he said is “growing quite fast.” Isaia has a partnership with the Imaginex Group in China, Dek goes here for this dek goes here for this where there are two stores, and the plan is to open another 12 in that country over the next four years. Potential sites include Beijing, shenzhen, shanghai, Hangzhou and Xi’an. dek goes here for this. “It’s a great partnership,” he said. Overall, Isaia said the plan is to reach 50 million euro, or $54.4 million, in sales this year, “and from there, we will hopefully double the business to 100 million euro [or $108.9 million] within seven years.” Expanding retail will play a major role in reaching that number. Outside of the U.s. and Tokyo units, Isaia said the plan going forward is to open stores in major European cities. “We would like to open stores in London and Rome, and The Beverly Hills store, at 9533 Brighton Way, will be In addition, Milan-based Boglioli has signed a lease we’re also thinking of opening in Paris,” he said. “very L.A.,” the company said, and will boast an ivy-covered to open a flagship at 10 Bond street on the northwest cor- He said he expects the total number of company-owned exterior, large glass windows and contemporary features ner of Bond and Lafayette streets in the NoHo section of stores to be between 12 and 15. “That’s manageable. We’re within 3,000 square feet. The location formerly housed an Manhattan. The two-level flagship will have 1,132 square a family business and would like to keep it that way,” Isaia Emporio Armani store and the “characteristics of the build- feet of space on the ground floor and 1,000 square feet on said, noting the family doesn’t want a “hedge fund” or any ing” are what prompted Isaia to take the plunge. the lower level and will be housed in a building designed by other financial partner to get involved in the business. In New york, the new store will be more than 5,400 selldorf Architects that will boast 107 feet of frontage. Isaacs “We’re a growing company, but we’re still a family, and we square feet at 817 Madison Avenue. It will include a private and Company’s Joel Isaacs, david Baker and Charlotte hope the fourth generation will join us in the future.” balcony overlooking the avenue, two fireplaces, a custom sardet represented the developer of the site and Baker also Isaia admitted more than doubling the business within kitchen and an outdoor garden. “It’s a considerable space, represented Boglioli. but we need enough space for it to feel like a club,” — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SHARON EDELSON shay said. “We wanted to open in a luxury neighbor- The L.A. store hood, and 68th and Madison defines the Isaia guy.” will have a He said the first floor will be 1,250 square feet and will contemporary be merchandised like a showroom with one piece of design. every style offered. The glassed-in tailor shop will also In the Spotlight be visible from there and from the street, he said, so the company can showcase the handwork that goes into its garments. NAME: Haxby London The mezzanine will sport around 800 square feet HISTORY: The brand for made-to-measure and there will be 112 try-on made its debut at Pitti garments in a “huge closet,” he said. “It’s going to be Uomo in January and its set up as a place people can come to learn about the first season will be for fall. brand. No place else in the world will have 112 gar- NICHE: The collection of ments to try on.” modern, luxe sportswear Both stores will feature about 50 percent exclusive is inspired by British product including , sportswear and accessories sartorial heritage. The found nowhere else in the U.s. The overall mix will be label offers exclusive the next seven years is an “ambitious” goal, but he’s confi- 40 to 45 percent sportswear, 10 to 12 percent furnishings, fabrications, updated dent the company can reach that number. “But I think we 5 percent shoes and accessories and the balance clothing, silhouettes and a subdued have to do it by ourselves, without any outside help.” shay said. The L.A. store will have a more casual angle than color palette designed to In addition to the flagship Isaia brand of luxury tailored the New york unit. appeal to the advanced clothing, sportswear and accessories, the company launched Isaia is carried in Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New york contemporary customer. Eidos, a younger-skewed label, in 2013 — a line Isaia called and saks Fifth Avenue in New york, and Neiman Marcus KEY ITEMS: Bombers in “my new baby.” The label is getting a lot of buzz, but will not and Barneys in L.A., shay said. But instead of competi- rubber, leather and tech be carried in the Isaia stores since it is marketed as a stand- tion, the Isaia stores are expected to have a “halo effect” on fabrics; cashmere-blend alone brand, according to James shay, president of North the brand and help raise its visibility, according to sarrah hooded topcoats; updated America. Eidos start at around $1,450 and Isaia suits Candee, director of marketing and public relations. shirts, fleece start at roughly $3,295 for off-the-rack. Both stores will offer special programming and experi- pants, and textured knit Los Angeles and New york were chosen for the first two ences. Candee said these will include partnering with other . Isaia stores in the U.s. because they are the two most influ- high-end brands and experiences on art and cultural events PRICE POINTS: Woven ential markets in the country, shay said. “There’s the whole such as wine tastings and art exhibitions. shirts will range in price connection with Hollywood in L.A., and then the history and Isaia is not the only Italian luxury label to be shining a from $235 to $285, a rubber heritage in New york.” spotlight on retail. Kiton recently opened a 2,500-square- leather bomber is $1,285 Each store will incorporate elements that blend moder- foot store off Union square in san Francisco as part of its and the cashmere/wool nity and tradition and both will feature a custom tailor shop plan to add some 20 units to the 52 it currently operates hooded topcoat is $1,985. encased in glass so that customers can watch the tailors at worldwide. About six will be in key markets in the U.s. The COMPETITION: Burberry, work. There will also be a vintage Campari bar, a red lac- most recent one opened last May at the Four seasons Hotel dunhill, Neil Barrett quered piano that will double as a made-to-measure table as in New york, a 500-square-foot location that sells only men’s and Tomas Maier well as a Vesuvio Room, a special VIP space. accessories and sportswear. Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 9, 2015 MW9 Jack Mitchell’s New Bear Hug Stylist Townsend Opens JACK MITCHELL’S arms must be tired — the pace of technology and the growth of Internet sales chairman of Mitchells Family of Stores has been for all industries.” As a result, Mitchell added a Men’s Store in Nashville hugging customers for over a decade already. section on technology, talking about the company’s His book on personalizing sales — “Hug Your new Web site. “We didn’t even launch e-commerce by JEAN E. PALMIERI She chose this week because it’s Customers” — was fi rst published in 2003 and has until October 2014,” he said. “We’re trying to repli- smack dab in the middle of Nashville sold more than 275,000 copies globally. Since its pub- cate the in-store shopping experience online, and NASHVILLE STYLIST Trish Fashion Week, which started lication, Mitchell has appeared on the “Today” show we offer 80 to 90 percent of our sku’s [stockkeeping Townsend has worked with some Tuesday and runs through Saturday. and has done more than 215 motivational speeches units] online so customers can see what store has of the city’s biggest names over her The city is working hard to raise around the country to corporations and groups as var- what item and the price.” two-decade career, but now, she’s its fashion credibility and designer ied as Nike, Pitney Bowes and Wesleyan University But it’s not just technology that has changed in branching out in a different direc- showcases, in-store events and tech- sharing his philosophy for providing extraordinary the past 12 years. “We’re different, too,” he writes. tion — men’s wear retailer. nology showcases are all on the customer service. “A decade ago, we consisted of two Connecticut “I always wondered where a styl- agenda for this week. The events, stores. Now we have fi ve stores, including one ist goes when they want to make a which are open to the public, ben- on Long Island, N.Y., and two new stores situ- change,” said Townsend, who has efi t the Nashville Fashion Forward Jack ated on the West Coast.” So Mitchell added a dressed Nashville luminaries includ- Fund of The Community Foundation Mitchell section on the company’s acquisition of Marshs in 2005, or “how we hugged our way through The store is in Long Island,” he said, as well as details on the Brentwood, Tenn. acquisition of the Wilkes Bashford stores in California out of bankruptcy in 2009, “when the whole world fell apart,” as well as how the com- pany survived the Great Recession. Mitchell referred to this as “how we hugged during the worst of times.” The second edition, which sports a “revised and updated” button on the cover, is 317 pages and includes pages of acknowledgements to the company’s hundreds of associates at the end. The book starts with an array of quotes from notables in the apparel indus- try and business community weighing in on the fi rst edition. These range from Jim Nantz of CBS Sports and R. Glenn Hubbard of the Graduate School of Business at Columbia University, to Gildo Zegna, chief executive of- fi cer of Ermenegildo Zegna. But while a lot has changed, the core con- cept of how to attract and retain customers re- mains the same. ing Carrie Underwood, Blake Shelton, of Middle Tennessee, which pro- As Mitchell writes: “One thing that has not Vince Gill, LeAnn Rimes, Alan vides endowments to photographers, changed one bit is our core philosophy of build- Jackson and Tim McGraw. While she stylists, models, hair and makeup On April 14, the ing relationships and delivering personalized cus- continues to serve as the go-to image- artists, boutique owners and blog- second edition of the tomer service.” maker for Shelton and Underwood, gers seeking to further their ca- book will be published by Hachette Mitchell’s pet peeve is also consistent: “Nothing among others, Townsend was ready reers in the fashion industry. This Book Group. continues to aggravate me more than businesses for her next chapter. “I’ve been doing comes on top of Nashville Fashion “It continues to sell and I’m really proud of it,” — small and large — that deliver very little, if any, it for 23 years and I’m still styling, but Alliance’s impending Kickstarter Mitchell said. “[Hachette] called last January and customer service. In this fast-moving age of Internet my hours are more limited now. Blake campaign, which seeks to raise asked if I would like to revise and update it.” shopping and depersonalized exchanges, I’m con- is superbusy and Carrie has slowed $100,000 to support the city’s grow- So while the “heart of the book is the same,” vinced that people more than ever yearn for at least a down since she had her baby.” ing fashion industry, as reported. Mitchell updated the preface and added several smile and a thank you from an actual human being.” So today, she will host the grand Townsend said when she started new sections. As he writes in the preface: “The Or a big hug. opening of Townsend Style, a bou- working with entertainers to update most signifi cant changes have been the quickened — J.E.P. tique targeted to fashionable men their images, “there was no such thing who call the city home. as celebrity styling. I considered my- Townsend took 1,200 square feet self a wardrober. But it’s a different in Brentwood, Tenn., a Nashville sub- ball game today.” When Underwood Man of urb, and plunged into kept appearing on THE WEEK MIKE KRZYZEWSKI: B retail, opening what best-dressed lists, it she characterized as “opened up doors for a “raw, cool and hip” other artists, and the He’s 68 years old with a full Ditto for the lapel store. She’s brought fans are just as great. head of hair and no gray? He’s pins. Only Boy Scouts together an assort- They have money and either blessed with good hair are allowed to wear ment that ranges from taste — even the guys.” genetics or he loves to use A more than one. Ted Baker and John It’s these fash- Touch of Gray. Varvatos to Jack Victor, ion-savvy men she Kent & Curwen and hopes to attract to The Kooples. She de- Townsend Style. He’s wearing too many scribed the aesthetic Townsend said statement rings. That makes The generously cut as “preppy with fl air — she opted to open a us nervous — it’s a little too allows him to everything has a twist.” men’s store because close to the Real Housewives gesture wildly, but does In addition to she has “always loved of Durham. nothing to enhance a apparel, Townsend working with men. sleek silhouette. Style carries gifts They need the most The tonal repp stripe is within including flasks, guidance, and here in the right color palette. shaving systems, hu- Trish Townsend Nashville, there are midors and other few places for them items to appeal to men. There’s also to shop. There’s Nordstrom and a few Sometimes there’s A simple, yet a room called the Dog House, which specialty stores, but that’s it.” shiny buckle nothing really wrong is “girly,” and offers “nonsized gifts The fi rst customers have been adds a nice touch. for women,” such as jewelry and other stylists who stopped by to take with an outfit, but handbags. “That way, they can take a look and then “walked away with something home to their girlfriend bags of clothes for their artists,” she there’s nothing right, or wife,” she said. said, giving her confi dence that she There’s so much fabric The store has been open since the was on the right track. either. And Coach everywhere and the drop beginning of the year and Townsend She hopes that after today, the K, who won his fifth crotch makes the outfi t look spent the past three months getting store will attract Nashville men such really dated. her feet wet. “I had to get used to as attorneys, doctors and other locals national NCAA being someplace every day,” she said searching for updated merchandise. with a laugh. “It’s a different world for But one thing Townsend is adamant championship with me. I also had to learn the computer about is that she won’t impose on her his Duke basketball system” and all the other back-offi ce celebrity clients to visit the store. requirements that come with running “It would be amazing if they do,” The black, team on Monday a store. Buying merchandise in August she said, “but I don’t require that shiny lace-ups that wouldn’t arrive until February or from people. Celebrities don’t need complement the night, obviously favors March also took some getting used to. one more obligation in their lives; belt and help fi nish Now that Townsend has gotten they’re always being pulled in all function over form. the outfi t. the kinks out, “it’s time to tell peo- sorts of directions. And I don’t want

PHOTO BY BOB LEVERONE/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES ple about it,” she said. to be that person.” 10 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 9, 2015 Vuitton’s New Designs on Miami has become. “ten years ago, you could By Lisa Lockwood drive from downtown to aventura in 30 The Louis Vuitton minutes. today, it can take up to one hour. store in Miami’s Louis Vuitton will unveil its permanent if you really want to serve the Miami mar- Design District. digs in Miami’s design district today. ket, you must have several locations,” he the store, located at 140 nE 39th said. in the Miami area, Vuitton has a free- street, represents the new, modern look standing store in aventura and in-store of Vuitton, while paying homage to Miami locations in aventura, Bal Harbour, coral Beach’s architectural history. it’s also the Gables, dadeland and Fort Lauderdale. first time that Vuitton’s women’s ready-to- Ledru said the store will feature several wear will be featured on the main floor. original artworks by contemporary artists. “i really believe that the design district “we’re trying to mix modernity with local will be a very important store for us be- architecture. we have a sincere, genuine cause you will have a mix of international link to the art world,” he said. and local clients. the expectation will be the store’s facade was designed by very high from clients around the world. Japanese architect Jun aoki in collabo- they’ll expect an exceptional level of ration with Mirei uchibe. aoki worked service and a unique experience,” said on the facade of Vuitton’s Matsuya Ginza anthony Ledru, president and chief execu- store in tokyo. aluminum panels are ar- tive officer of Louis Vuitton americas. ranged in varying frequency as a geo- Ledru called the new location “spec- metric and architectural nod to Vuitton’s tacular, quite special and quite different.” iconic damier pattern. the store boasts the company declined to reveal first-year double height entrances and strategically projections and square footage of its new- placed brise-soleil mesh in the same ab- est unit, representing its 15th in Florida; stract damier pattern, which allows sun- 114th in the u.s. and 141st in the americas light to flow into the store. at night, the (north and Latin america). facade becomes a light box, lit up by LEd “Miami has been really growing faster lights radiating from behind the grid of than the rest of the u.s. market. it used to “quilted” panels. be a very important regional hub before designed with an open floor plan, the it became a global hub for luxury,” said store’s centerpiece is a grand staircase Ledru, citing Vuitton’s presence in Miami that’s visible from the exterior of the build- for more than 30 years. the company has ing. Light oak floors, stark white walls and seen a strong Latin american presence museum lighting evoke a gallery atmo- from Brazil, argentina, colombia and sphere. terrazzo inlay stairs around Venezuela, as well as a new surge from a striated limestone column in the center Europe, especially from Russia. it’s also of the store. the staircase has glass pan- starting to see a chinese clientele, and lot eling and handrails wrapped in Louis more domestic tourism, which has driven Vuitton nomade leather. “tremendous growth,” he said. Ledru also on the main floor is women’s rtw, along noted how much more populated the city with women’s leather goods, accessories

Women's ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories and shoes on the main floor. WWD PRINT SUBSCRIBERS: and shoes. the store will open with nasa. the store also provides clients nicolas Ghesquière’s spring women’s with a gallery space on the third floor, PLEASE GIVE US YOUR runway collection. “Honestly, we expect providing guests with an opportunity to rtw to be quite important,” said Ledru. enjoy the Miami weather. Vuitton plans EMAIL ADDRESS the mezzanine level, a half-flight up, to organize cocktails and small events is devoted to men’s and women’s travel on the rooftop, said Ledru. pieces. that area spotlights Hothouse, the store will feature a few exclu- DON’T MISS OUT ON THE a large, 36-foot-high artwork by Miami- sives for women and men such as a born artist teresita Fernández. the monogram hardsided travel case with NEW DAILY DIGITAL EDITION! piece is made of translucent blue glass custom coral and light blue lining; the and more than 16,000 cabochon mirrors men’s Montecarlo car shoe in anthra- that create multiple reflections of the cite colored python with a custom red store’s interior. lining, and the women’s tempo sneaker On April 29th, the print edition of WWD will re-launch in a Men’s wear is located on the sec- in purple python, calf and suede leath- ond floor, with offerings in rtw, leather ers. Vuitton will offer limited-edition weekly glossy format. The final edition of the daily newspaper goods and accessories. the store will crocodile and ostrich capucines bags open with the spring collection by kim in bright, playful colors such as violet, in its current format will be on April 24, 2015. Jones, artistic director of men’s wear. blue and kiwi, as well as a summer the second floor also houses a series travel capsule collection and exclusive of watercolor drawings of saint tropez Ruben toledo artist’s Editions book. scenery by andré, commissioned by the new store opens today for top Beginning with the April 27th issue, we’ll produce a curated Louis Vuitton in 2010, and a group of clients and Friday to the public, fol- historic celestial photographs from lowed by a cocktail party on april 16. Daily Digital edition of WWD that will reflect the top stories of the day. It will be emailed to you before you wake up each business day!

The mezzanine level is dedicated to men’s and women’s travel pieces and also features Hothouse In order to ensure that you receive the Daily Digital, by Miami-born artist Teresita Fernández. please go to wwd-email.com or call 1-866-401-7801 to provide or update your email address. warnik O Br TH PHOTOS BY Se PHOTOS BY

WWD_QuarterPgAd3.indd 1 3/27/15 5:02 PM 2.5x7 (right)

WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 9, 2015 11 WWD.COM

time, just by looking at it;” “A watch too smart to try and be a phone,” and MEMO PAD “Are you frightened by technology, FASHION SCOOPS but tired of the SHINOLA GETS SMART: inconvenience of clock Shinola is at it again. In towers and sundials?” IN THE MIDDLE: Alber Elbaz is heading to with a built-in bit of chalk for cleaning 2013, following Detroit’s “It strikes the right Dubai later this month — billed as the the collar and a brush for dusting down bankruptcy fi ling, the cord without being too fi rst trip to the emirate for Lanvin’s the — while another is fi lled with watch manufacturer much,” Russo said. “I creative director. The designer is graffi ti created by the artist known as that is headquartered in think that maybe an to host a fashion discussion for a Cept, and another with fl oor panels that Motor City took out an ad Apple customer might group of VIP women on April 15, “talk” when a visitor walks on them. A in The New York Times say, ‘Hey, I’ll have a and present looks from his fall café dedicated to lost objects features to defend its hometown. Shinola watch, too.’ They collection via informal modeling, little tables inset with pocket watches The text read, “To those are — no pun intended including a fi ve-look capsule or tiny paint boxes that, on closer who’ve written off Detroit, — apples and oranges.” collection designed especially for inspection, feature fi lm screens the we give you the Birdy.” — LAUREN MCCARTHY the Middle East region. size of postage stamps. A pillbox and The Birdy, as many Lanvin is also planning glass bottle on one table glow with would come to learn, is ANDY’S PACKED ROLODEX: a cocktail party for a wider psychedelic colors while the image the name of the brand’s Andy Hilfi ger is bringing audience, including local press, of a lady dances at the bottom of a signature watch style, his well-connected later that evening. Chalhoub coffee cup. but the double innuendo lifestyle to a new gig. Group is the French house’s Objects have been taken from certainly was an eye- He has joined Design + partner in the region. the Hermès archive, the museum catcher. Now, the brand is Industry, an executive — MILES SOCHA collection of Emile Hermès at 24 unleashing another round search fi rm, as partner rue du Faubourg Saint- of ads, this time focusing and executive relations SOULCYCLE LAUNCHES APP: It will A sketch Honoré in Paris and on a new target: the Apple ambassador. “I’ve played now be easier than ever for from the Hermès’ contemporary Watch. The ads, which One of Shinola’s recent ads. matchmaker throughout fashion’s most dedicated indoor Lanvin fall collections and will hit print on Friday my career, helping cyclers to book their bikes. Today, collection. displays have been — the same day as the Apple Watch is friends and coworkers fi nd new and SoulCycle will launch its fi rst created from a variety available for pre-order — take jabs at exciting opportunities that most app in the Apple iOS store and a of media. the smartwatch’s extensive capabilities, people, even within the industry, would corresponding campaign online, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, pairing pointed captions next to images never hear about,” Hilfi ger said. “The #OhAppyDay. The optimized artistic director of of Shinola’s Runwell model. best opportunties are unlisted, and to booking experience will hopefully Hermès, loves the “We just came back from fi nd them you either have to be in the lessen some of the stress riders buzz and beauty of Baselworld, and there was a lot of right place at the right time, or know have to endure when booking for London, and could chatter about the Apple Watch,” said somebody who is.” the week opens up every Monday at not resist opening the chief marketing offi cer Bridget Russo. In addition to matching individuals noon. If a desired class is already show there. “Paris would “We thought this was the right topic, with executive positions, Design + fi lled up, they can be added to the have been the obvious choice, and the right time. We are launching at Industry provides further staffi ng, wait-list with just one tap, and “favorite” but London is the ideal city for the 21st Selfridges on April 10, the same time licensing and B2B services as needed. and bookmarking features let riders century fl âneur. There is something as the Apple Watch. It’s not even that Hilfi ger will also join the company’s fi nd classes quickly without having to happening here,” he said. we see them as competition — it’s more advisory board. “We anticipate a big navigate through the entire site. For Dumas said his aim was to create an so that there is going to be excitement return on having him with us,” said those who opt in, a Monday morning exhibition that would embody “what around the watch, so what can we do Christian James, managing partner at push notifi cation will go out to gently wandering is about. My hope is that that’s very Shinola?” Design + Industry. remind riders that it’s almost time to people come to the show, maybe forget Added founder Tom Kartsotis, Having worked at his brother’s sign up. — RACHEL STRUGATZ reality, and then look at their own city “In celebration of Bridget’s recent company, Tommy Hilfi ger USA, where with new eyes. We must never lose our promotion to chief marketing offi cer of he spearheaded various music and A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE: Hermès is taking ability to dream, to wander, to go with the Bedrock Manufacturing Co., we decided entertainment initiatives, Hilfi ger later a trip — to nowhere in particular — with fl ow and let ourselves be surprised.” to let her do something really goofy.” went on to partner with Jennifer Lopez, an exhibition that opens today dedicated The exhibition was created by Bruno While traditional watch companies creating her fashion and fragrance to fl ânerie, or the act of wandering the Gaudichon, curator of La Piscine-Musée allocate 30 to 40 percent of revenues business. He continues as a partner in city streets and drinking in the details of d’Art et d’Industrie in Roubaix, while the to marketing, Shinola only budgets Star Branding, with his brother, Tommy, everyday life. Wanderland will run until set designer was Hubert le Gall. The brand 15 percent, Russo noted. To create and Joseph Lamastra and Bernt Ullmann. May 2 at the Saatchi Gallery in London, has also created a book of kooky collages a simple yet effective campaign, the Star Branding has been responsible for and move to Paris in September, Turin, with Actes Sud that refl ect the rooms and company worked with New York-based the Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony Italy, in December and China next year. objects on show. Dumas said the show is branding agency Partners & Spade, brands for Kohl’s, a rock ’n’ roll lifestyle Hermès has dedicated 2015 to the also a meditation on the act of creation, settling on three variations that will brand for Macy’s called Andrew Charles, theme of fl ânerie and transformed an and hopes it will awaken visitors’ be printed in publications such as and most recently the development and upper fl oor of the gallery into a series empathy, so they can “think about the The New York Times and The Wall launch of the Nicki Minaj and Adam of whimsical and surreal settings across world we live in, and feel the presence of Street Journal. The fi nal copy reads: Levine brands for Kmart. 11 rooms. One features vintage walking those who made the objects.” “A watch so smart, it can tell you the — LISA LOCKWOOD sticks — including one for the dandy, — SAMANTHA CONTI

ABG Introduces Mini Marilyn

television, short-form digital content, By VICKI M. YOUNG video games and live venue attractions. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. ABG is codeveloping the animated AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUP is en- character and storyline with DMG tering the animation fi eld through Mini Entertainment via a long-term strategic Marilyn, a new stylized character. partnership. DMG’s cinematic inter- Check out Derived from Marilyn Monroe, the pretation of Mini Marilyn will provide animated character targets Millennials the foundation for the brand’s content, the new DIGITAL between ages 17 and 34. Mini Marilyn — while ABG will work on the product li- with her trademark blonde hair, beauty censing side. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, version of PRODUCTIONS mark and red lips — will come to life According to Jamie Salter, chairman Full service shop to the trade. through 3-D and computer-generated and chief executive offi cer of ABG, the Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 imagery set to include feature fi lms, character will “empower young women The to be confi dent, take risks and reach for premier their dreams.” Mini Marilyn is an animated Salter said the time was right to in- Women’s Outerwear License Sought destination version of Marilyn Monroe. Leading North American manufac- troduce the latest creation from AGB, turer of women’s outerwear looking to for the fashion given the popularity of “Frozen” over acquire license brand name. License would cover North America, the past holiday season, and Hello Latin America & Europe. License industry’s Real Estate, Kitty, and the Cinderella movie that’s would not be used in independent apparel specialty stores. Business Opportunities, in theaters. Interested parties should contact: While the animated character will be Randy Harris, [email protected] and Help Wanted listings. introduced globally today, a full-fl edged licensing program will roll out initially POST YOUR LISTINGS ONLINE NOW! across Greater China this fall that will FASHIONCAREERS.MARKET.ADICIO.COM include apparel, accessories, sleepwear, jewelry and beauty categories, accord- ing to Salter. DMG is showcasing the brand via a fl agship on Chinese e-com- merce giant Taobao and social platform WeChat. The products will be available internationally by fall 2016.

12 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 9, 2015 ’’

Karan, Parsons Link on Haiti Initiative By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

{Continued from page one} NEW YORK — In the soothing, store championing the handiwork of one “The first day we landed in Haiti calm of Urban Zen, Donna Karan of the world’s poorest countries reso- when Donna was meeting the artisans, was a whirlwind of energy, darting nates with Karan, who said people often she turned to me and said, ‘My dream, around the precisely appointed react to her Haitian-made designs with, I always wanted to start with vocational education, my dream seriously, is to have Parsons space with boundless enthusiasm “Really, Haiti?” students in Haiti,’” said Urban Zen as she pointed out the details and Five years after she fi rst visited Port- because when you give someone a job, it’s like a fishing Foundation’s director of partnerships craftsmanship of the numerous au-Prince following the 7.0 earthquake Marni Lewis. “I was like, ‘Yeah, that’s Haitian-made designs. that rocked Haiti and caused an esti- rod. It’s teaching them how to do it for themselves. going to happen, right?’” [referring to her The designer certainly has mated $8 billion in damage, Karan has — DONNA KARAN then-sarcastic reaction.] I said, ‘Donna, reason for such zealousness, increasingly upped her commitment that is a very lofty dream.’ And here we having recently partnered with personally and through her Urban Zen are with Parsons in Haiti.” Parsons The New School for Foundation. Last month a foursome of Despite a driver’s insistence that he Design to open DOT, the Design, Parsons faculty and students flew to could not leave her without any security the island to map out a game plan with in the gang-riddled Bel Air neighborhood Karan and local designer Paula Coles. where many artisans live, Karan said They worked on renderings for DOT’s she told him, “‘You don’t understand. 5,000-square-foot space, including an Artisans talk to other artisans different- outdoor garden with plants that can be ly.’” (Apparently, they protect each other, used for natural dyes, a showroom and too, considering that after working with work stations with Urban Zen-provided Karan on the dirt fl oor of their shops, tools. In June, three students and two they surrounded her as she walked back faculty members will go to Haiti for the to her car.) summer to create a logo for DOT and Noting today’s shared economy and work with artisans. ’’ her commitment to 7th on Sixth sales “I always wanted to start with voca- years ago, Karan said she aims to bring tional education, because when you give other designers to Haiti. “It’s not a ‘me’ someone a job, it’s like a fi shing rod. It’s project,” she said, adding that her friend teaching them how to do it for them- Pauline Brown, a Parsons board mem- selves,” Karan said. “Everyone in Haiti ber, took her family there in December. has an artisan capability. That is their While not in Haiti in relation to her role true nature.” as chairman of LVMH North America,

Haitian workers will learn more skills at DOT.

Haitian-made candlesticks at Urban Zen. Ceramics are among Haiti’s specialties. Along with the areas for education Brown said Wednesday she will continue courses, meetings, yoga classes and com- to buy Haitian art for herself and to fur- munal dining, the DOT facility is meant ther her connections with artists through to make it easy for people to learn about Parsons. “There is absolutely a thirst for the products on display and provide a such beauty in Haiti,” she said. “I am safe location for artisans to produce very proud to have made that journey their work, improve their skills and build and I hope that others from the industry a community. will think to do the same.” Neither Karan nor Parsons would pin- Diesel Canada’s president and chief point the fi nancial commitment, insisting executive officer Joey Adler also has the union will be a long-term one, poten- worked in Haiti for years and inspired tially emulating the 30-year track record Karan. Adler launched Industrial that Parson has with a similar project Revolution II and opened a state-of-the- in the Dominican Republic on the other art garment factory with support from half of Hispaniola. With construction un- Karan and such social activists in 2013. derway at DOT, Parsons students will be “You can’t do the whole thing. But working with 20 different artisans initially. each of us do a piece of it and all of the The program’s crystallization was some- pieces make a whole,” Karan said. thing Karan has strived for since 2010. Noting that Parsons is the most inter- Another element of the collaboration is nationally diverse university with 119 Parsons’ partnership with the art school countries represented, Towers said stu- ENARTS, (École Nationale des Arts) in has since used his designs for her Urban had been having meetings over the years dents will bring a certain level of respect, Port-au-Prince to expand opportunities Zen-made goods, including a T-shirt de- but you don’t really understand it until “It’s not just going someplace and taking for aspiring Haitian student designers. sign that Olivier Martelly, the president of you go there,” Towers said. from. It’s the opposite — it’s going and ENARTS’ dean Philippe Dodard, Haiti’s Haiti’s son, wore in an Urban Zen ad cam- Despite his familiarity with Haitian working with,” he said. most renowned artist, took that academic paign with Adriana Lima in 2012. Russell artisans’ talents, even Towers looked im- Giving up the New York speed for life role after Karan urged him to do so. He James, founder of Nomad Two Worlds, is pressed at Urban Zen on Tuesday as he is also essential. “With Haiti, you have to was recently instrumental in having a another collaborator. admired ceramic vases that he had not fl ow with it,” Karan said. paved road and a pedestrian walkway in- While Haiti’s unemployment rate seen before. Well aware of the success of designer stalled to replace the dirt road in the area has fallen to 7 percent from the post- Far from a vanity project, Karan said John Hardy’s Green School in Bali and its where many iron workers are based. In earthquake rate of 40 percent, ac- the impetus for the Port-au-Prince voca- bamboo village, Karan aims to do some- a strange twist of fate, while admiring an cording to the World Bank, many still tional training center (and its name) stems thing similar in Haiti. “In developing coun- iron gate in Haiti in 2011, Karan wondered associate the country with the mass from Weiss’ fondness for connecting the tries, the biggest question is, ‘How do you aloud who made it. It was by Dodard, who destruction caused by the tragedy. Two dots in his art, life and business. To further support who they are?’” she said. “When happened to be standing nearby and in- years ago Karan persuaded Parsons that point, she leafed through her book I was fi rst starting out the differences be- troduced himself. The dot-connecting School of Design’s executive dean Joel “Stephan Weiss: Connecting the Dots” to tween New York, Paris, Milan and London became even more aligned after she saw Towers and one of the school’s board show the artist’s vast body of dot-connect- were vast. Now it’s the same stores, same that his paintings, iron sculptures, jewelry members, Sheila Johnson, to tour the ing artwork. “I am here to preserve his kind of restaurants, same everything. and photography were reminiscent of her country of 10.3 million, where the aver- legacy, not only for his artwork but also his Where’s the speciality? That comes from late husband Stephan Weiss’ work. Karan age life expectancy is 63 years old. “We passion for teaching,” Karan said. artists and designers.”