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Home , Damaris Lewis, Erin Heatherton, Jamie Bochert, Jessica Hart (model), Shanina Shaik, Shearling coat

JUNE WEIR DIES THE FORMER WWD EDITOR, WHO NEW YORK 2015 WENT ON TO ROLES AT STRUTTING THEIR STUFF COLLECTIONS FROM KATE SPADE, SALLY LAPOINTE, VOGUE AND HARPER’S LEBRON JAMES CORRALLED SOME NICOLE MILLER AND MORE. PAGES 4 TO 9 BAZAAR, WAS 86. CURRENT AND FORMER NBA PLAYERS PAGE 10 FOR A FASHION SHOW. PAGE 12

WWDWEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Stole The Show A detachable fox stole tossed over one shoulder and secured at the waist added a touch of glamour to a slim black . It was just one of the multipurpose features Jason Wu worked into his sleek, smart collection of American COLLECTIONS sportswear. For more from New NEW YORK York, see pages FALL 2015 4 to 9.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2x5 (left)

2 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015 WWD.COM Q2 Sales Stand Out Intel CEO Plugs Into Fast A/W 15 come a greater part of the analysis of an event, In Toughening Luxe Sector By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Krzanich said. Milk Studio-goers will see an Intel RealSense experience, where passersby will ma- HOWEVER OBVIOUS as it might sound, Intel nipulate a 15-foot interactive screen that senses in By MILES SOCHA chief executive officer Brian Krzanich’s fashion- 3-D, depth presence and range of motion. week blitz will be all about networking. While Nike, Under Armour and Tory Burch PARIS — Raf Simons’ modernist makeover at Dior keeps win- On Saturday afternoon, the Silicon Valley ex- are among the brands delving into fi tness-track- ning converts. ecutive will be seeking connections at FAST A/W ing devices, wearables have capacities far beyond The French fashion house reported revenues advanced 12.6 15, a mélange of tech executives, fashion types, in- fi tness and fashion. Referring to the smart-glove, percent to 437 million euros, or $545.8 million, in its second fl uencers and investors checking out and talking Krzanich often considers industrial applications, quarter ended Dec. 31, outpacing many of its luxury rivals. up wearables. For added oomph, the Milk Studio whether one is trying to teach someone on an as- Dior chief executive offi cer Sidney Toledano cited “very event, which New York Knick Carmelo Anthony’s sembly line or how to repair something. The fa- strong double-digit growth” and “excellent” sellout of fashion de- Melo7 Tech Partners is cohosting with Made ther of two teenage daughters, Krzanich said, signs by its Belgian couturier. “The cruise collection, the one we Fashion Week, Katalyst Live, Intel and Accenture, “These things could transform how fast people presented in Brooklyn, was a big success everywhere,” he said. coincides with the NBA’s All-Star Weekend. learn, or how safe they are. So I look at it as this The company also cited dynamism across its leather goods, As for how much of the Anthony hook-up was broad spectrum, and when I show up at fashion accessories and jewelry collections, with all regions contributing tied to his 6.16 million Twitter followers, Krzanich week, what I’m trying to do is connect with these to this “robust” growth. said, “Sure, it’s a factor. We’ve talked to him about innovators to partner with them and show them Profi t from recurring operations in the fi rst half gained 11.1 some of the things he can do to activate those six what’s possible. And I want to know what prob- percent to 120 million euros, or $154.5 million. Dollar fi gures are million followers — everything from having his lems they want solved so that I can go back and converted from euros at average exchange rates for the periods own avatar that tells him how he is feeling before work on those problems.” in question. a game, or using wearables to transmit his vital Intel, the world’s largest chip-maker, is Toledano trumpeted a “very good December” and cited a statistics.” He added that Anthony’s business in- working with, or speaking to, 20 to 30 fashion number of standout products, including Diorissimo and Be Dior terest in merging fashion, sports and technology, and sports companies about wearable partner- , the latter fronted in advertising by actress Jennifer as well as his ability to attract “smart, fashion- ships. Evasive about any specifi cs, Krzanich Lawrence; Fusion embroidered ; Tribal pearl ear- oriented” people was the real draw. said, “There is not a number that is used for the rings; the Archi Dior high jewelry collection by Victoire de “What happens in the fashion world, and in a potential of the business. When we look out in Castellane; and men’s and accessories under designer lot of other worlds that aren’t used to technology, time, whether that’s fi ve years or 10 years, it’s Kris Van Assche. is they don’t know what’s possible. We [at Intel] hard to say, but it’s going to be billions of de- “The only category that’s been responding less is the , know what’s possible, but we don’t know what that vices that are connected. I’m not going to talk which refl ects the situation across the market,” he noted. industry wants. We’re trying to bring these two about people we are in talks with.” (He later Toledano cited strong momentum in the U.S. market, and groups together. We know what’s possible — you allowed that executives at and Japan, where Dior staged its pre-fall show last December in tell us what you want,” he said. Oakley have helped to expose him to what tandem with an “Esprit Dior” exhibition that welcomed 160,000 Although FAST A/W 15 will be the fi rst show- they’re thinking about, subsequently broadening visitors. “Since the show, we’re seeing a very strong and positive case of its kind, Krzanich is becoming more his understanding of design.) reaction to the brand by the Japanese,” he said. comfortable with the fashion crowd, due largely The world’s 6 billion-plus population will only Meanwhile, he characterized business in Europe as “good” to Intel’s partnerships with Opening Ceremony, continue to grow, and some will opt to own more and noted “we are positive with the evolution of China.…All the Luxottica, Oakley and other marquee brands. than one wearable for sports or other interests, markets had a very good last quarter and the full year.” An Intel lifer, Krzanich became ceo in 2013. As Krzanich said, “It’s going to be hundreds of mil- Asked about 2015, he said, “we’re confi dent,” mentioning for how much of this quest is personal, Krzanich lions to billions of systems. Our job is to make a string of new boutiques in development, including ones in said in a phone interview, “Sure, I have an agenda them something that adds to your life and not Vancouver, San Francisco, Las Vegas, Miami, Seoul, Frankfurt here. I believe that wearables are going to be one something that burdens you or slows you down.” and Düsseldorf. of the growth areas of the future and this is how Noting that wearables are becoming worldwide Dior said profi ts for calendar year 2014 gained 23 percent to future generations will connect with computing, very quickly, Krzanich said the U.S. and Western 203 million euros, or $269.8 million, while revenues rose 13.2 as well as tablets and PCs. It’s certainly part of the Europe are “on the leading edge,” but China and percent to 1.6 billion euros, or $2.13 billion. At constant ex- vision myself and [president] Renee [James] have Southeast Asia are “coming on fast. We have as change rates, the revenue gain stood at 14 percent, Dior said. tried to bring to the company.” many talks with partners there as we do in the Dior’s performance was revealed as part of the results A 3-D printed “spider ” that monitors U.S. or Western Europe.” of Christian Dior SA, the holding company for LVMH Moët the wearer’s stress levels and responds to any While aligning herself with the fashion crowd Hennessy and the Dior fashion house. encroachment of personal space, a sensor-laden boosted Yahoo president and ceo Marissa Mayer’s LVMH released its results on Feb. 3, reporting a 10 percent smart glove that guides wearers through every image considerably (as well as the company’s jump in fourth-quarter revenues. This compared to a 4 percent step of a tire change (even if they have never stock), Krzanich dismissed the suggestion that his gain in the same period at Compagnie Financière Richemont seen a tire) and RealSense cameras that mea- fashion-week appearance could be along those and an 11.8 percent pace at Hermès International. Kering is set sure depth perception and will clue sports fans lines. “I’m not a public-image kind of person. I to publish its results on Feb. 17. into just how many feet away a ball might be are consider myself a technologist and an engineer,” Dior changed the closing date of its fi scal year to June 30 in among the advancements up for discussion on he said before giving a lengthy description of the 2013, putting its reporting cadence slightly out of sync with sister Saturday. As athletes and their equipment become design development of Intel’s MICA bracelet with company LVMH. more engrossed in smart technology, that will be- Opening Ceremony.

June Weir, former fashion editor at THE BRIEFING BOX publications such as WWD and W, IN TODAY’S WWD died following a long illness. PAGE 10 After a 66 percent increase in net Backstage at profi ts last year, L’Oréal is confi dent for Wes Gordon’s all that 2015 has to offer. PAGE 10 fall show. For more, see A NYC cocktail party celebrates the WWD.com. new collaboration between Sarah Jessica Parker and Moda Operandi. PAGE 11

Factoring · Accounts Receivable Financing The NBA taped its fi rst “All-Star All-Style,” an “American Idol” sort International Factoring and Financing of contest in which seven NBA players were judged for modeling three looks

Purchase Order Financing · Letters of Credit JENNA GREENE PHOTO BY on the runway. PAGE 12

ON WWD.COM FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA WWD.com/social GARY WASSNER · JEFFREY KAPELMAN @ RUNWAY: WWD goes behind the scenes at the fall shows. For more from New York Fashion Week, CRISTOPHER WASSNER · TIM MOORE · CHRISTINA MALLEOS · JOSHUA KAPELMAN see WWD.com/runway.

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FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT CARLY GRESH, BEAUTY DIRECTOR, 646.356.4705, [email protected] 4 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015

Jason Wu Kate Spade Sally LaPointe

Fall 2015 “reading amazing books such as Sally LaPointe: Sally LaPointe Dahl’s and imagining yourself found her fall muse in German with these characters,” kept choreographer and modern glimpses of the author’s playful dancer Pina Bausch. “I came New York Collections vibe — a clutch reminiscent of across her work, and it was her Jason Wu: Jason Wu typically cool Nineties silhouettes. For Several and were a box of chocolates, in homage larger message that took me,” develops his collection fall, Wu took the reference and actually two pieces — fabric to Willy Wonka — but added a the designer said backstage. from carefully considered funneled it through his fresh, over voluptuous fur softer, more elegant element “Bausch had this ability to both watchwords. The words for fall: modernist eye. The base of the vest or vice versa — allowing via simple full-skirted cocktail shock and inspire; it was about strength and seduction. The collection was a waist-conscious the wearer three distinct in with black bows. being very honest, and also a idea, Wu said backstage, was silhouette with a relaxed, options as the weather and her The presentation, held little crude, with her work.” to present “this superstrong midcalf or ankle-length moods change. They looked in a setting that replicated The dance infl uence was woman, really glamorous, . These projected great. “When you invest in a Bemelmans Bar, complete with clear in fl uid printed-silk seductive,” while at the same confi dent, everyday glamour, piece, you really want it to be a grand piano and whimsical dresses and pleated , as time working the notion taking on heightened swagger multifunctional,” Wu said. Chic wallpaper created by Michael well as separates with fringe of multipurpose clothes, when Wu tossed a fox stole over investment dressing. What McConnell, also featured a red- and dresses with cutaway particularly outerwear. The one shoulder, securing it at the better way to beat the chill? and-black blanket-plaid group strips, all of which allowed for result was a strong lineup that waist. The beauty was twofold: — BRIDGET FOLEY of , skirts and jackets movement. She masterfully made good on the two-word The detachable fl ourishes inspired by “Fantastic Mr. Fox.” juxtaposed the collection’s premise and on the concept of changed the look dramatically Kate Spade: Roald Dahl’s The paired with a rich textures, as in a silver pragmatic versatility. while avoiding the tricked- colorful characters might not white tailored and faux-fur satin skirt paired with a fur Intentionally or otherwise, out vibe that can accompany be the most obvious reference stole looked particularly fresh and cashmere-wool sleeveless Wu has assumed the of convertible pieces. for a label looking to up its and modern. The house’s staple . In fact, lush fox and smart American sportswear. He The return of real winter sophistication level, but accessories took an upscale turn, mink were plentiful, used on seems infl uenced particularly hasn’t been lost on designers, Kate Spade’s Deborah Lloyd too, with new faux-fur clutches the collars of leather bomber by , and smartly Wu included. His outerwear certainly thought so. Lloyd, who and a chunky men’s loafer. jackets and in accessories so, referencing Klein’s clean, centered on dual-purposing. said she escaped as a child by — ROXANNE ROBINSON such as cowl and pony WWD weekend, february 14, 2015 5 WWD.COM

Wes Gordon Nicole Miller Rebecca Minkoff Cushnie et Ochs

For more images, see WWD.com/ runway. ee S in cH e G r O BY Ge Oc HS T nie e SH u c ; O quin a n OH ff BY J ff BY O ; Mink O quin a n OH er BY J er BY LL ni; Mi O vanni Giann vanni O n BY Gi n BY O rd O din Banica; G rO

BY e T in O ner; LaP H ic e eve T Wu PHOTO BY S Wu PHOTO BY hair clutches. Evening looks embroidered bandannas. If a appliqués, metallic beads and era of the Chelsea Hotel girls: suede whipstitch legging and included a creamy winter-white fanciful contrast to the spare fringe, and plenty of it — as Smith, Janis Joplin and Grace said fringed . — R.R. set with metallic embroidery stuff, it was unclear where well as playful multicolored Slick. Jamie Bochert, the and a long-sleeve covered Gordon was headed there. fox-fur and leopard-print modern-day version of those Cushnie et Ochs: Carly Cushnie in reptile-print metallic sequins The spare glamour of a long mohair coats. Outdoorsy legends, opened and closed the and Michelle Ochs added a — at once elegant and, well, sheath with a double-slit skirt prints, some featuring animals, show, which took attendees on strong element of elegance badass. — KRISTI GARCED and a slipdress with geometric underscored the forest theme a journey of rock-rich hippie to their signature, known for embroidery seemed to come quite literally. looks “redelivered” for today’s its unapologetic sex appeal. Wes Gordon: Consistency is a more easily to him. With models backstage younger generation. Below-the-knee sheaths in virtue to a young designer — JESSICA IREDALE traipsing the floor in heavily Outerwear ruled in rich emerald stretch viscose or trying to establish a career. shredded metallic , fabrics such as suede, hair calf, terra-cotta viscose knit, high- Wes Gordon’s fall collection Nicole Miller: Nicole Miller felt one wondered if there might tweed and the season’s favored waisted pants and tailored was in line with the Nineties inspired after coming across also be a grunge reference fur: shearling. Coats ranged coats mirrored the designers’ minimalist tailoring that has a painting of a forest. “But I at play. Miller shrugged it off from fitted maxi trenches to new restraint. A lovely lilac anchored his recent lineups, wanted to go a little deeper, so thusly: “Well, I guess if you’re slim cropped jackets, with a cashmere , for instance, this time layered with a touch I got into this idea of mythic in the woods, you’d get caught and thrown in for over matching high-waisted of tony grunge. The first look arts, symbols and illustrations,” on thorns, right?” — K.G. good measure. Flowy metallic pants and a silk and cashmere was great: a long, tailored coat she said. It wasn’t an enchanted chiffon peasant tops and long honeycomb pullover as well worn over a slinky rib-knit top forest she was channeling, she Rebecca Minkoff: “The ultimate slit skirts read vintage, while as a dark green velvet and column skirt, grounded in clarified, but rather something luxury is to be young, in love a matching mohair-like red- and lean pants gave a knockout the polish of Manolo Blahnik darker and more mysterious. and beautiful.” That was and-black cape and miniskirt balance to the hotter looks combat . The concept came together in Rebecca Minkoff ’s takeaway felt modern. Fringe adorned that fans have loved. For them, As the show went on, a flirty lineup of dresses and after reading the Patti Smith suede motos, tunic sleeves and there were still plenty of high Gordon introduced Art separates featuring plenty and Robert Mapplethorpe knee-high boots. Bochert, who slits, see-through mesh and Nouveau-esque floral prints to wear for the girl who’s not autobiography “Just Kids.” It was a surprise coup, according plunging necklines — in shape, on trim dresses, short and afraid of embellishment — was also the genesis of her fall to Minkoff, closed the show in cut and attitude, the sizzle was long, a few styled with crystal- feathered hemlines, floral show, which celebrated the a black-lace romance , still there. — BOBBI QUEEN 6 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015

Cynthia M Missoni Adam Lisa Perry Rebecca Rowley Selman Taylor

FALL 2015 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS Trademark

Cynthia Rowley: Cynthia Rowley closures, Lurex jacquard frocks that is defi nitely not Lisa Perry’s and ruffled dresses in Creatures of Comfort: The relaxed watched Michael Jackson’s epic in traditional fl oral motifs, and style. She has created a pop-art shades of plum, oxblood, blue and glamour of the Seventies and 1993 Super Bowl halftime show kimono-style dresses. All were world for herself, starting with teal. Outerwear with colorful fur the structured tailoring of the — with the lights, the wind, the fun and youthful. But for the her home and trickling down and fringe accents — including Forties melded together in Jade smoke — over and over. It led to classic M Missoni customer, to her collection. Each season a chic, oversize faux-fur leopard Lai’s imagination, giving life the inspiration for her first digi- there were plenty of core she shows Mod-inspired A-line coat, a print Taylor says she con- to her Creatures of Comfort tal fashion show, which she opted pieces with traditional zigzag dresses with geometric prints siders a neutral — added a bit of fall collection. In a feminized for this season in lieu of a tradi- knits and space-dyed yarns on that are fun and playful. fun for a girl who has grown tired men’s wear vein were a series tional runway format. “It gave everything from dresses to the For fall, Perry continued her of standard winter black. — K.G. of basics, including a long white us the ability to have all these trimmings on puffer coats. Sixties journey, but in a more cotton-cashmere special effects, and to be able to — ANTONIA SARDONE modern way. Infl uenced by the Trademark: In a very short time, worn under an angora navy bring forth that rock ’n’ roll en- architecture of , she Pookie and Louisa Burch have vest and a blue shirt and roomy tertainment element,” Rowley Adam Selman: One imagines Adam worked with the lines and shapes established their aesthetic: auburn trouser with linen vest. explained on the set of her video Selman and John Waters would she sees through the window of blue-blooded nostalgia for Tuning into a bohemian sartorial shoot earlier this week. have much to talk about — and her new studio space overlooking everyday clothes of the Sixties vibe, Lai used an oversize check The clothes — inspired by not just because they both have the Queensboro Bridge. The and Seventies. With a retail print in full midi skirts and dress- this atmosphere, and also by the creepy mustaches. They share result: pants in an optic-swirl store, accessories line and men’s es, but most memorable was a idea of movement — skewed to- a general passion for bad taste pattern paired with a Mongolian wear, they have the collateral to chic and understated solid ribbed ward nighttime dressing, most handled with humor and kitsch. lamb top that was a little extreme, underscore it. knit version with sleeves tied at of the silhouettes long, languid Selman borrowed from Waters’ alongside plenty of cute A-line For fall, Pookie used Garry the waist. — MAYTE ALLENDE and a little bit Sixties. “Now canon of Sixties hair hoppers dresses. Most noteworthy were a Winogrand’s recent retrospective that we’ve separated out fit- and misbehaved spoiled circular cutout gown in gray and at the Metropolitan Museum of Desigual: It’s a global world and ness, a lot of the sportiness has brats with retro clothes for orange and a series of graphic- Art as a checkpoint, working in Christian Lacroix’s Desigual left the collection,” Rowley said. bubblegum bad girls and vamps: print dresses with leather insets. references — such as leopard- Studio has it covered. The That meant more elevated and acid-colored ginghams trimmed — A.S. print jacquard jackets, skirts design team melded cultures dressed-up looks featuring luxe in the fakest of fake fur; a clingy and mules — from his black- together in the most interesting fabrics, from metallic brocades pink and “mauvelous” ribbed- Rebecca Taylor: With Françoise and-white photos into the ways for fall, offering up an and sheer high-neck blouses to knit dress; a polo dress dotted Hardy as her muse, Rebecca collection of sturdy American explosion of fun, lively prints mixed-media lace dresses in rich with white -string bows; a Taylor channeled a “feminine, sportswear classics punched up that played with multiple jewel tones. — KRISTI GARCED slinky black gown fi t for Elvira elegant, eclectic” mood for fall, with color and “funny” details. references: folk, African, Asian if she preferred a high neckline. mixing a subtle Sixties vibe with The latter is what Pookie called and Northern European. While M Missoni: A techno girl The deliberate tackiness is part Victorian and military accents. the scalloped edges of jackets at times the patterns became a from Shanghai was Angela of the fun, but Selman has to be “Things have been so austere,” and skirts, the nifty fringed cuff bit overwhelming, there were Missoni’s inspiration for her sure to pad the punch line with she said during a walk-through. on structured pants, and the some strong looks, such as the contemporary label M Missoni. substance. — JESSICA IREDALE “It’s about a return to modern shag of a khaki-colored faux fur. Nordic-print sweater coat, the And the Asian references were femininity and movement.” Styled in matchy-matchy looks, trompe-l’oeil floral tapestry abundant: cropped wide-leg Lisa Perry: Many designers Plaid printed pants and wide- the collection has a distinct retro blouse, the graphic circular pajama pants and cropped reinvent themselves so often leg sailor trousers tempered the twee, but it’s easy to see past it. shift and the Cubist geometric jackets with asymmetrical that they lack brand identity, but girlishness of her fl oaty bohemian — J.I. dress. — A.S. WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015 7 WWD.COM Red Valentino: “Gritty grace” is how Rebecca Creatures Desigual Red Valentino Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Taylor of Comfort Grazia Chiuri described their fall lineup for Red Valentino. Inspired by Kurt Cobain, the designers presented a romantic, feminine take on grunge. They showed plenty of floral dresses, reminiscent of spring’s main line collection, paired with oversize mohair cardigans. Plaids and leopard print also appeared in everything, from knits to outerwear. Trompe l’oeil dresses were a highlight, with the most noteworthy being the Fair Isle knit sweater and fl oral skirt versions. But when Piccioli and Chiuri took a whimsical turn, playing with circus-themed prints and embroideries spurred by Fellini fi lms — think acrobats, musclemen and clowns — on tulle skirts, it was all a bit silly yet with a childlike charm. — A.S.

Tess Giberson: For fall, Tess Giberson got to thinking about Arctic landscapes and the ex- tremes that exist there, how they can be at once treacherous and beautifully serene. She par- layed the idea into a juxtaposi- tion of textures, pairing chunky, fringed hand-knits and wool bouclé with pleated satin skirts and leather pieces in cream, silver and charcoal. Inuit prints, an homage to the region’s indigenous peoples, were subtly abstracted onto jacquard knits. Giberson’s girl will also have plenty of options to keep warm come fall — from puffy down and fur-trimmed vests to cozy trimmings: cashmere cro- chet , legwarmers, gloves and scarves. — K.G. FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ Hanley Mellon: Each season Nicole runway. and Matthew Mellon take style cues from their travels around the world. This time, the couple went to Antwerp, where they visited the Royal Academy of Trademark Tess Giberson Hanley M.Patmos Fine Arts and the Red Star Line Mellon Museum, which traces the histo- ry of human migration. “The col- lection became about the migra- tion of ideas — taking American sportswear and giving it a little twist, just as Antwerp was the gate into America from Europe and Africa,” explained company president Frederick Anderson. The result was a range of classic looks — a blue silk dress, a herringbone coat, wide-leg camel pants and coat, and an emerald-green silk dress with gathered sleeve details — that fell short of an obvious global reference but delivered in wearability, which is always a good destination. — M.A.

M.Patmos: Marcia Patmos always uses the most beautiful knits in the fi nest and most luxurious yarns for her M.Patmos label, and for fall she did not disappoint. The designer said she was “inspired by a dapper, classic, British gentleman and his trip to Patagonia and Antarctica.” Translation: a luxe assortment of cozy textured knits. The lineup featured easy blanket-plaid dresses, oversize layering scarves, slouchy and a chic men’s wear-inspired topper. But Patmos also showed a few over-the-top pieces, such as the cashmere shearling shrunken jacket and a woven yak hair coat that was made in Tibet, resulting in a knitwear collection that was anything

SELMAN AND DESIGUAL PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; CREATURES BY JOHN AQUINO; ROWLEY BY WILLIAM EADON JOHN AQUINO; ROWLEY BY BY GIANNONI; CREATURES GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY SELMAN AND DESIGUAL but basic. — A.S. 8 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015

Timo Weiland: A positive-negative striped dress worn under a navy, fur- Timo Sachin Protagonist Rachel Orley collared coat and chunky knit beanie Weiland & Babi Comey set the tone at Timo Weiland’s fall outing, where grunge and masculine infl uences polished up ever so well. The palette was kept neutral and autumnal — burgundy, navy, black, white, lavender and gray — while shapes were long and lean with skirts hitting below the knee and sweatpants cut close to the body. Weiland also paired feminine silk skirts with chunky, oversize cardigans or with color-blocked sweaters and striped tied at the waist. Tank tops with fringe detailing were worn atop fl owy pants or pin-striped pencil skirts. But it was the designer’s cozy knits and his light- and dark-gray jacket with the shearling collar that were defi nitely the highlights of the show. — MAYTE ALLENDE

Sachin & Babi: Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia’s strong history with textiles informs both their signature and Noir collections for Sachin & Babi. The designers incorporated an array of industrial-like mesh, for both shape and visual appeal, using it to cinch the waistlines of felted wool sheaths. Padded jackets, quilted short skirts, sequined varsity jackets and attached fringes for a see-through effect continued the surface interest and played a role in the duo’s “whimsical and fun” approach to their signature looks. But it was the Noir collection, with its simpler, more sophisticated shapes — full, tea-length dresses and long skirts — with colorful embroidery on black mesh that provided the label with most of its charm. — BOBBI QUEEN

Protagonist: The concept is luxe, elevated wardrobe basics — crisp cotton shirting, chunky knits, double-faced wool suiting, wrap coats and languid silk dresses and skirts — except there’s actually nothing “basic” about them, at least not in the hands of Kate Wendelborn. That sums up Protagonist, created in 2013 as an Kempner Ohne Titel Gabriela Rodebjer exclusive to The Line (Wendelborn’s sister, Hearst Morgan, cofounded the specialty retailer with Vanessa Traina Snow, who styled the fall presentation) and since expanded into global doors that include Barneys, The Webster and 10 Corso Como. For her fi fth collection, Wendelborn gravitated toward Arte Povera, the Italian art movement of the late Sixties, as well as the natural geometry and landscape of the Utah desert, the latter of which informed a graphic black-and-white print on a stunning wool jacquard coat. “I wanted everything to be very deliberate and crafted, and to look like there was a hand to it,” the designer said. To that end, she deconstructed a pair of into impeccably fi t denim trousers, and added delicate signs of wear to a high-waisted skirt in crackled calf leather. All of it was chic, modern and understated. — KRISTI GARCED

Rachel Comey: Brooklyn, both the borough and the arty intellectual aesthetic that epitomizes it, was represented in earnest at Rachel Comey’s fashion show/three-course dinner held at Dustin Yellin’s Pioneer Works in Red Hook. A cynic might say it bordered on parody, what with hostess Tracee Ellis Ross in character as someone with a British accent pontificating about vaginas and a wackadoodle crowd that included Adam Horovitz and Kathleen Hanna, Parker Posey, Natasha Lyonne and — wait for it — Monica Lewinsky. The clothes suited the atmosphere, an insular collection for an insular crowd, FALL 2015 some of it quite charming — such as the denim and shearling jacket, the FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE peacoat with hands embroidered at NEW YORK the pockets, and the handloomed WWD.com/ COLLECTIONS sweaters with shaggy fringe around the runway. shoulders — and some of it cloyed like a cliché, like the abundance of clogs. — JESSICA IREDALE WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015 9 WWD.COM Kempner: “I was imagining what a down to men’s XS.” The six looks were Orley Orley Duckie Kempner girl, who I like to think is in perfect sync with the men’s collection Brown very sexy, confident and glamorous, — “It’s the same mind-set,” Orley said — would want to wear to these parties which translated to a bright-green zigzag that my grandmother would throw in and matching polo as well as the Seventies,” said Meggie Kempner of luscious hand-knits. The latter included her cocktail-ready lineup. She derived a beautiful chain-stitch sweater, a mixed- the rich color palette from the interior weave skirt and a textural chevron of a smoking room, much like the one intarsia sleeveless top. All were perfectly where her late grandmother Nan threw cozy yet sophisticated and chic. — JEAN shindigs (and which she re-created at E. PALMIERI AND ANTONIA SARDONE her fall presentation, complete with a piano player). Kempner mixed in a few Duckie Brown: After a spring season pieces of boyish suiting, knitwear and rooted in masculinity, Duckie Brown outerwear — one coat had an exaggerat- returned to its gender-bending DNA ed Mongolian fur collar— but feminine, for fall, a season that has seen lots sexy dress silhouettes prevailed, most of of other designers doing androgyny. which featured a mix of chain tassels, “We’ve been doing women’s wear cutouts and open-back detailing. — K.G. references for 12 years,” said codesigner Daniel Silver. “Everybody Ohne Titel: Alexa Adams and Flora Gill else just caught up with us.” focus on colorful graphic prints and His partner Steven Cox said architectural shapes, often referenc- their frustration with the long, ing different visual artists for inspira- cold New York winters was the tion. That is what they do — and do theme for the line. “It’s winter that well. This time around, the Seventies looks like summer,” he said. “It disco era had a clear influence, in both has the lightest, sheerest fabrics — the wrap color-blocked Lurex tops and nothing heavy, nothing restricted.” dresses and the high-waisted pants with The opening look of a white, flowy they showed for fall. That’s not chiffon shirt worn with voluminous to say the duo shifted far from their sig- four-pleat pants and white sneakers nature — there were a couple of short encapsulated the chic feminine A-line graphic numbers — but they feeling. Powdery pink topcoats and were refreshed by ladylike, below-the- kimono-inspired shirts also helped knee flared silhouettes, which, at their elevate the offering. best, featured fringy sashes. — M.A. With an inventive open backstage set, Silver and Cox allowed the Gabriela Hearst: As is the trend with audience a peek behind the curtain. many women of means launching “We’re in a very hard place,” Cox lifestyle collections, Gabriela Hearst revealed. “We’re struggling to keep is her own muse. She lives in an the company going, so we’re exposing impeccably appointed West Village everything we do.” — ALEX BADIA town house with her husband, Austin, and their twin daughters (a third Perry Ellis: Things are starting baby is on the way) and grew up on a to change at Perry Ellis. In his ranch in Uruguay. Her new line, called sophomore effort, designer Michael Gabriela Hearst, is a reflection of her Maccari presented a more-directional world, past and present. “I wanted to collection featuring original Perry create a brand that had that feeling Ellis silhouettes blended with a of things that are well made and long modern ath-leisure point of view. lasting,” she said in her living room, Maccari said he drew from the where the collection was shown Friday. former designer’s archives for Perry Todd John There’s an equestrian flavor to inspiration, but updated the looks with Ellis Snyder Elliott the clothes in the hardware, but it’s bonded wools and technical fabrics. + Co more about flawless classics done “The fabric determined the shape,” he in exceptional fabrics — Italian and said. The heritage pieces came in the English double-faced cashmere, form of slouchy toppers and a drop- merinos, cady silks, chiffons, denim, shoulder car coat. There was also a wax canvas and leathers, worked in a “color pop” — an abstract graphic print palette of navy, green, burgundy, ivory that appeared in Neoprene sweatshirts and black. Special details abound: and intarsia sweaters.

by rodin banica by The neckline of a navy sweater is It might not be a brand new day

TT laced with grosgrain ribbon, and quite yet, but the future looks bright blanketlike wraps that fasten with a for the Perry Ellis brand. — A.B. chic safety pin are made of the softest Italian yarns. Knee-length skirts in Todd Snyder: Todd Snyder knows what rich leather exude luxury, while a long American men want to wear — especially tailored camel skirt is slit high enough during a cold New York winter. to suggest that the woman wearing it is His outerwear-heavy fall collection elegant but not a bore. — J.I. proved the point and also showed his range and fabric knowledge. Rodebjer: Afro-Cuban deities met retro A camel-hair wool topcoat with a psychedelia at Carin Rodebjer’s bonded membrane to repel water fall outing. Looks were elaborate in was technical in its materials but proportion and style, as is the brand’s maintained its classic heritage.

homas iannaccone; weiland, snyder and ellio identity — but this time the novelty was Other standout outerwear pieces T the use of technical fabrics in pieces included a navy shearling coat paired such as an elongated nylon vest worn with a tonal turtleneck and dress pants. with matching roomy pants and layered “It’s a little bit different but still looks featuring rope-lace overlays. — M.A. traditional,” he said. Snyder dabbled in ath-leisure Orley: Shopping in your grandfather’s as well with the use of formfitting closet might sound a little odd, but it sweatpants, some in ribbed fleece. was the message of Orley’s cute and But the presence of nicely quirky fall men’s wear lineup. “They’re tailored corduroy and rich, beautiful vintage pieces we recreated clean leathers kept the collection in a subverted way,” said Alex Orley, from going too casual. — J.P. one of the trio of designers for the New York-based label, which also John Elliott + Co: With a star-studded front introduced its first women’s collection. row — Kanye West, Victor Cruz and J.R. That vibe worked best in a Smith — John Elliott debuted his first Fifties-inspired polo and matching runway collection. The lineup centered sweater in a zigzag knit. The around a youthful athletic aesthetic that brand’s knitwear heritage was also New York designers seem not ready to showcased in a braided cashmere let go. Highlights included a gray wool sweater constructed from 10 bomber jacket over a tonal sweatshirt, os by giovanni giannoni; orley and brown by john aquino; rodebjer by john aquino; rodebjer by giannoni; orley and brown by giovanni os by T different yarns. “Each piece takes with layered over black mélange over a week to make,” Orley said. . The strong outerwear offering, The new women’s line was the mixed with interesting yet familiar product of demand, Orley said, noting layering techniques, allowed for a solid that “women have been wearing the first runway effort and makes Elliott a el and ellis pho T

Ti men’s sweaters and we started sizing talent to . — A.B.

10 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015 OBITUARY ’’

Brazilian. We didn’t have to get too close listen, we’ve been talking about that story to the girls if they didn’t want to be pho- I did with you. The family really thinks it’s Fashion Editor June Weir tographed. What we got was terrifi c. I not right to say anything about the money.’ showed these to John [Fairchild] and said, “‘It’s already in today’s paper,’ I said. ‘It’s JUNE WEIR, a former fashion editor midi, although neither look caught on ‘They’re tops and just little bits of fab- what?!’ she said. ‘It’s a daily newspaper,’ I at WWD and W, who went on to become quite the way legendary editorial direc- ric held together with strings.’ ‘That’s it,’ said. Dead silence. ‘Read it to me,’ she said, vice president and associate publisher of tor John Fairchild and she had hoped he said. ‘We’re going to call it ‘The String.’ ‘I never should have said that.’ And I said, both publications, died Thursday at age they would. “It hit the front pages of Women’s ‘But Mrs. Kennedy, it is your money.’ She 86 after a long illness. In WWD’s 90th anniversary issue, Wear, and it was an overnight sensation,” said, ‘You don’t understand, the political Born in Youngstown, Ohio, in 1928, the Weir, who — along with other former em- she continued. people will go after it.’ daughter of Scottish immigrants Janet “That afternoon it was and John Weir, a mason in the steel all over the papers and mills, June Weir graduated from Ohio June Weir wire services. It was in Wesleyan University. After moving to in 1973. ‘I said, ‘But Mrs. Kennedy, it the heat of the campaign. New York and working as an assistant It just really became a buyer at Macy’s, she began a career in major thing. In her auto- fashion journalism at WWD in 1954. is your money.’ She said, ‘You biography, Rose Kennedy Colleagues noted that she could said that the only mis- be both tough and tender. “June and I don’t understand, the political take she ever made started working together in 1961, when talking to the press was I reported on the business of Seventh people will go after it.’ when she was talking to Avenue and June covered the design- Women’s Wear Daily.” ers and reviewed the collections,” said — JUNE WEIR, ON After her distin- former WWD managing editor Mort guished career at Sheinman. “We remained friends ever ONE OF HER WWD SCOOPS Fairchild Publications, since. She was a consummate pro — Weir later became meticulous, thorough, hardworking, Weir also recalled a moment Vogue’s fashion news director and held met her deadlines, and wonderfully en- when WWD was following Jacqueline such posts as deputy style editor of The couraging to me when I was still discov- Kennedy in Mexico after the assas- New York Times Magazine and executive ering what the garment business was sination of her husband, and Rose fashion editor of Harper’s Bazaar. She all about. Her demeanor was always Kennedy called to complain about it, also wrote a column for Mirabella maga- ladylike and very, very proper, but she saying she didn’t want John F. Kennedy zine called “She Shops By Night.” had the soul of a street reporter and Jr. and Caroline to read things about Weir lectured at several museums had no trouble spotting the frauds and their mother. [Publisher] James Brady and taught fashion courses at New York the phonies who tried to infl uence her promised to call off the coverage if she University, too. She had two Yorkies, coverage. I liked her, I learned from [Rose Kennedy] gave WWD the fi rst in- Taffy and Tessie, and had a house in her and I’m sorry she’s gone.” terview. “We did the interview by tele- Southampton, N.Y., for a number of years. The designer Jacques Tiffeau, in phone, while Bobby Kennedy was cam- ’’She was married to Kirk Baron, who fact, once called her, “a nun with a paigning in Indiana. We talked about was in the merchant marine, until he knife in both pockets.” the campaign, and that the Kennedys died in 2000. As fashion editor of WWD, she were using a private plane to take him She is survived by her sister, Phyllis championed the “Bonnie and Clyde” around, and she said, ‘After all, it’s Wilkie, along with her nephew, Jeffrey look, based on Faye Dunaway’s cos- our money.’ I wrote the story, and the T. Wilkie, and his wife, Marilyn, and tumes in the 1967 Arthur Penn fi lm. “I ployees — described her time at WWD, next day it appeared on the front page of their children Andrew, Kyle and Blair. saw Faye Dunaway in those soft sweaters told two amusing stories. “I took a trip Women’s Wear. We were having our morn- A memorial service to celebrate Weir’s and long skirts and cunning little , to Brazil in the Seventies,” she recalled. ing meeting in John’s offi ce, when some- life will be held at Immanuel Lutheran and I thought that was one of the great- “It was on that trip that I discovered ‘The one called and said, ‘June, there’s a tele- Church at 122 East 88th Street in New est things I’d ever seen,” she told Time String.’ I was on the beaches of Ipanema, phone call for you from Hyannis Port.’ York at 11 a.m. on Feb. 28. magazine in 1970. She also promoted the and I had a sports photographer who was “She said, ‘This is Rose Kennedy. Now — LORNA KOSKI Agon Touts ‘Confi dence’ in L’Oréal for 2015 China Responds recovery in Western Europe,” the execu- Among the wide-ranging subjects By JENNIFER WEIL tive explained. covered during the conference was To WTO Filing “Secondly, [we have] confi dence in The Body Shop, whose sales growth PARIS — Jean-Paul Agon, L’Oréal chair- our capacity to deliver organic growth improved in the fourth quarter, when it By LARA FARRAR man and chief executive officer, was up- that will outperform the market. This rose 6 percent to 319.6 million euros, or beat Friday while addressing financial organic growth will not be linear along $399.3 million. BEIJING — The Chinese government analysts and journalists gathered a day the year and will start softly with the The brand will undergo a transfor- issued a muted statement Thursday in after the company published its fourth- fi rst quarter, below the average of the mation this year, following L’Oréal’s response to a World Trade Organization quarter sales and 2014 results. year, but will accelerate afterwards,” recent buyout of its Australian fran- fi led earlier this week by the Obama “We are entering 2015 with confi- Agon continued. “In Europe, of course, chisee. This includes the acceleration administration alleging the country is il- dence and ambition,” he said, speaking the fi rst quarter will be very strong.” of store modernization, the renewal of legally using export subsidies. in English for the fi rst time — rather He noted the robust dollar would products and a reorganization in the China’s Commerce Ministry said it than the traditional French — at the an- “provide a very substantial tailwind U.S., including the closing of the distri- hoped the WTO “will appropriately han- nual meeting at company headquarters both in sales and profi ts.” bution center and some low-potential dle this based on the dispute resolution in the Paris suburb of Clichy. Not only are approximately 25 per- stores, plus a transfer of headquarters, process,” according to a statement posted It was a telltale sign of how interna- cent of L’Oréal’s sales rung up in North explained Mulliez, who added The on its website. tional the fi rm has become. L’Oréal now America, but nearly 40 percent of its rev- Body Shop’s profi tability should not The Chinese ministry expressed re- generates practically as much of its sales enues worldwide are either made in dol- improve in 2015. gret over the suit, adding that China “has in North America as it does in the euro lars or currencies linked to the dollar. always respected the rules of the WTO” zone, with New Markets its largest region. Said Agon: “For many years, we have and that the country’s policies are “part The company’s net profi ts last year been handicapped by the strength of the of the transformation and upgrade of our were 4.91 billion euros, or $6.53 billion euro, but now it seems that the wind is foreign trade.” at average exchange for the period, an turning, and we intend to make the most There has otherwise been little increase of 66 percent, due largely to of this very positive currency effect that Chinese response to the WTO suit, with the disposal of its half of Galderma, will help us deliver a nice increase of only minor news reports in China’s resulting in a capital gain of 2.1 bil- our sales and our profi ts in 2015.” state-run media, which is known to lion euros, or $2.79 billion. Meanwhile, Christian Mulliez, L’Oréal executive sometimes publish vociferous edito- L’Oréal sales rose 1.8 percent to 22.53 vice president and chief fi nancial offi - rial attacks against the United States billion euros, or $29.96 billion, as re- cer, said that at current exchange rates, when confl icts arise between the two ported. Despite the upbeat mood at “the impact in 2015 would be very posi- nations. Instead, news has largely fo- L’Oréal, the company’s stock closed tive on our sales at plus 5.5 percent. As cused on an upcoming visit by Chinese down 1.2 percent Friday in Paris to a for the change in the scope of consoli- President Xi Jinping to the White House unit price of 156.05 euros, or $178.03 at dation, a positive impact of about plus 1 in September, which Chinese media is current exchange. percent may be expected.” painting as a sign of even closer ties be- Agon attributed his confi dence to nu- Given the favorable currency envi- tween the two nations. merous factors, including the ongoing ronment, the company should have a The WTO suit targets a broad export growth of the company’s markets. “substantial increase in profi ts and a subsidy program, including seven sec- “Despite an economic context that moderate increase in profi tability. In tors, among which are apparel, textiles is still unstable and unpredictable, we the same way and for the same reason, and . The U.S. is accusing China think that the growth of the global cos- we intend to rebalance the profi tabil- of providing around $1 billion of illegal metics market should be roughly the ity [over] the two [halves]. For several subsidies over three years to suppliers, same as in 2014, around 3.5 percent or years now, the fi rst semester has been which then gave free or discounted ser- even a bit better if there is an accelera- much more profi table than the second,” Jean-Paul Agon vices to Chinese manufacturers in the tion in the U.S. and some consumption Mulliez said. export sectors identifi ed. WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015 11 WWD.COM

John Targon and Scott Studenberg

Nina Earl and Russell Westbrook FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE

Carmelo Anthony in WWD.com/eye. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Eyes on the Prize with LaLa Anthony. ON THURSDAY NIGHT in Manhattan, of several promotional events ahead of “To be here in New York, my In any case, what conference were Russell Westbrook and Carmelo Anthony got the big game for the New York Knick. hometown, and to play at Madison they rooting for at the All-Star Game? a preview of their bout at Sunday’s NBA “But there’s nothing wrong with Square Garden, it couldn’t be a better “It’s East Coast versus West Coast? East All-Star Game at Madison Square Garden: that,” Anthony said. time,” he said. Coast. Is Russell East Coast?” Targon The two basketball greats were hosting After a bruising season that fi nds Meanwhile, Westbrook was holding asked. Nope. OK, then — how about competing dinners within walking distance his team entering the All-Star break court at Backbar with fi ancée sticking to a subject they do know of each other in the Meatpacking District. with the NBA’s worst record, Anthony, Nina Earl, Marcus Wainwright and something about, Westbrook’s style: In his corner, Anthony, the player who was nursing a knee injury that is David Neville of Rag & Bone, Scott “He looks really cool. He has great with the home court advantage, had expected to derail the rest of his regular Studenberg and John Targon of Baja personal style because he takes wife La La, Los Angeles Laker Nick Young, season, was actually looking forward to East, Ariel and Shimon Ovadia and risks and has the confi dence to pull Gayle King and DJ Cassidy. They were at a little friendly exhibition game, even Rachel Roy for a dinner cohosted it off. Bam!” Studenberg said. the Italian restaurant Santina for a if it’s for a short time. It’s in his own by WWD and Samsung. Westbrook, for his part, is keeping a dinner with Ermenegildo Zegna, one backyard, after all. They were all there low profi le this fashion week — just because in the past few two shows. He knows where his seasons — fashionwise, bread is buttered. not NBA — the “It’s kind of the last thing on Oklahoma City Thunder my list,” he said, referring to point guard has become his fashion week appearances. Nick Young one of the athletes most “You’ve only got so much associated with the time in the day. I try to take industry, a front-row care of the things that are fi xture who has also most important to me.” After lined up collaborations the All-Star Game, he won’t with Barneys New be partying with the Public York and True Religion. School boys and Prabal Gurung The designers don’t at their joint party. “I’m going even necessarily follow back to Oklahoma City and his sport. getting ready for work,” he said. “John and I were What did he make of his courtside at a game [last adversary from the Eastern year],” Studenberg said. Who Conference throwing a dinner a was playing? “The gay one. few blocks away? Who’s the gay one? What “It’s fun to see team is that?” “The Nets?” other players, especially friends like Targon said uncertainly. Yes, Carmelo, be able to venture off and Reece Solomon and it was with the Brooklyn Nets go into fashion,” he said charitably. Ariel and Shimon Ovadia Chelsea Leyland at the that the openly gay Jason Collins Point, Westbrook. with Brad Goreski. Russell Westbrook dinner. played for, though he has since — ERIK MAZA AND

ANTHONY AND YOUNG PHOTOS BY LEXIE MORELAND; ALL OTHERS BY SCOTTLEXIE MORELAND; ALL OTHERSRUDD PHOTOS BY BY ANTHONY AND YOUNG retired from the league. JEAN E. PALMIERI

Dressed in a pale pink tunic by Tome, Parker feigned modesty. “For a fl edgling little eye shoe company like ours, we’re Triple Play really lucky to even have this opportunity,” she said. “I mean, IT WAS A MEETING of the for someone of my frankly, why would they take three-initial club last night at generation, there’s the chance with us? I think they Café Clover in the West Village. something…I don’t have a really exciting voice, I Sarah Jessica Parker, the actress- know what the think they have an enormously turned-shoe-designer under word is, the draw is exciting future, and it was really the label SJP Collection, was very strong.” our great privilege.” fresh off her fi rst collaboration Certainly the As guests — , with fashion darlings Ryan Lobo draw was strong Rachel Zoe, Jenna Lyons — circled and Ramon Martin of Tome. The for the Tome the diminutive star, one came celebratory cocktail party was designers. “We’re forward to profess admiration thrown by Todd Bishop and Lauren fans, and not just of for her outfi t. “I love what you’re Santo Domingo (also known as her acting work,” wearing,” said Princess Elisabeth LSD), cofounder of the Web said Lobo. “She has Ramon Martin von Thurn und Taxis, whose pen site Moda Operandi, which will a fashion legacy and Ryan Lobo name is, yes, TNT. “Oh! You can

host an online trunk show of and she has a Sarah LEXIE MORELAND PHOTOS BY have it tomorrow. Seriously, it the colorful single-sole pumps. quintessential New Jessica would look really good on you,” “When we saw Sarah Jessica’s York footprint, not to Parker in all of that is that she’s incredible. So you forget all of exclaimed Parker. Was the front , we were all immediately pun on the shoes.” Tome. such a creative person that when you’re working with sewn shut, Taxis wanted to taken by the quality — we thought Did the duo have and she has an amazing somebody who just knows what know? It was, and Parker started they were incredibly well made,” any doubts about vocabulary of fashion,” said they’re talking about.” untying her to prove it. “I said Santo Domingo. “There aligning their four-year- Martin. “Her references, her “There’s nothing strategic have to go home soon,” she said, is an association with Sarah old label with a celebrity knowledge on the history in it — we just like her, and we “so I might as well take this off.” Jessica Parker and shoes, maybe brand? “What eclipses of fashion is absolutely like the shoes,” added Lobo. — ALLY BETKER 12 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2015 All-Star Fashion: From the Hardwood to the Runway Zach. He’s too young to be in the lounge.” By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Lebron James The lounge’s complimentary Ciroc vodka bar was the real deterrent, not its white leather couches LIKE ANY other marquee runway show, all the real action hap- or the Vine-backed 360-degree camera station. pened backstage during Friday’s taping of the NBA’s first tele- But that didn’t mean James and Hart couldn’t vised fashion show. start the cocktail hour early. With headliners like LeBron James, Shaquille O’Neal, Charles Summoning a buddy to hold his drink before Barkley, James Harden, Klay Thompson and Chandler Parsons fi lming resumed, James said loudly, “I was going teaming up for the “NBA All-Star All-Style” show, which airs to- to set it down, but there are a few people around night on TNT, they really couldn’t miss. Throw in the fast-talking, I just don’t know.” wisecracking comedian Kevin Hart; a bevy of IMG models like He wasn’t kidding. A throng of production Iman, and ; judges like assistants, stylists, publicists, friends, wives, designer John Elliott, and performers Flo Rida and Wale, and the Turner executives, models (aka backdrop “tal- runway debut was almost good to go. An hour after the 2 p.m. call ent”) and even a few children crowded back- time, the only missing factor was the players, who apparently had stage, clinging together like magnets whenev- redirected their driver to a take an unscheduled off-site pit stop. er “groups, groups, groups” were needed. “Look Interestingly, the fan-friendly event’s three biggest draws like you belong here,” they were told. — James and NBAers-turned-TNT-commentators O’Neal and Even Harden caught some heat from Hart for Barkley — shut down all on-site interview requests. Sharply acting a little stiff. “Shut up man! Act like you dressed in his size 58 business suit, O’Neal was all smiles greeting know me man and that you like…” Hart said, hold- the audience but considerably less so off-camera. That was until ing up Harden’s NBA doll. “Why are you Mr. T? his girlfriend Laticia Rolle arrived and he bent over to plant a What grade of hair did they give you? Why are kiss on her lips. He also perked up when Heatherton passed by, you Velcro on the tops and some itchy stuff asking her, “How are you doing? How are your friends?” on the bottom?” before punting the toy. Jeremih Considerably more relaxed in a , jeans and a button- LaVine also appeared iced out of the back- down shirt, James, whose Springhill Production Co. produced stage dressing room that Parsons, Chandler and others the show, pretty much smiled and laughed his way through- had piled into like a clown car. With out his backstage commentary. Aside from inking an un- 12 strangers killing time near two vats precedented $42.1 million, two-year deal with the Cleveland of untouched coffee and snacks that Cavaliers last year, James has more endorsement deals one described as “some cheese and cat than any other player. Guests at Friday’s taping need only food,” the Minnesota Timberwolves guard casu- look around backstage to be reminded of a few — namely, ally dropped trou, changing out of his three-piece the show’s presenter Samsung Galaxy, as well as sponsors Alba suit into a pair of jeans and an old-school Ciroc and Kia Motors. pin-striped Minnesota Twins shirt. Looking con- This being All-Star Weekend, the NBA is gunning to siderably less wan than he was earlier waiting in amp up its style quotient with an “America’s Next Top the wings for his runway debut, LaVine said, “It Model”-inspired runway show with seven players each was a lot of fun being in a different environment modeling three looks. But for some, hitting a zig-zagged than a basketball court and showing a little per- runway was more daunting than any NBA showdown. sonality with your clothes.” Watching Parsons march onto the runway in a Ralph Like a few of the players, Hart made an early Lauren suit, shirt and tie and shoes, the exit. “I gotta go. I gotta do stuff,” he told Harden Sacramento Kings’ DeMarcus Cousins said, “OK, Chandler is a and James as the cameras rolled. “I’m famous.” professional. He’s like a fashion model.” “Really?” James deadpanned. “Don’t act like Sporting an ASOS turtleneck, G-Star and that. For real.” Nordstrom boots, Cousins said style is essential for post-NBA “I’ve been drinking,” Hart laughed. “I’m sorry. pursuits. “I do think it’s important because basketball doesn’t You know how I am.” last forever. If you want fashion and other opportunities, you Jeff Teague also took a lashing from Hart even have to have your own sense of style,” he said, before being ush- though he earned high marks for his classic suit ered onto the runway. Chandler Parsons and and polka-dot tie from Barkley and other judges. Also looking noticeably uncomfortable were Thompson of DeMarcus Cousins “You did not look comfortable,” Hart told him. the Golden State Warriors and Zach LaVine of the Minnesota THOMAS IANNACCONE S PHOTOS BY “You kept licking your lips, which is a sign of a Timberwolves, who fi dgeted with the buttons on their slim- lack of confi dence.” fi tting suits and shifted around backstage nervously. As for Shaquille O’Neal After Harden ditched tight white jeans and a sun-kissed yellow button-down why modeling in front of a few hundred fans in the run- for a baby blue cotton suit with jewel-encrusted and spiked Christian Louboutin down Hammerstein Ballroom is more nerve-racking than competing in high-tops, James asked, “What, did you jump in a phone booth?” front of his 19,000-plus home crowd at the Target Center, Thompson said, As a TNT producer tried to hustle him out of a last-minute bathroom break “We’ve been playing basketball since we were little so that comes natu- that was holding up the fi nale, Parsons, looping his and wrapping a red leath- rally. But it’s not every day that you’re on the catwalk. er bracelet on his wrist, had the wherewithal to ask, “Where’s the necklace?” “It’s important to get out of your comfort zone,” he said, pressing his But after nearly two hours of taping, that wasn’t the only thing unraveling, as a Alba three-piece suit with his palms. And if designers start sending him few NBAers bailed early, but still needed to be shown to the door. “Yo, where my freebies, so be it. “Hopefully they will. I love free clothes. But I’m not coat at?” Harden asked his publicist. “What is my coat doing in the car?” running out to get the latest shoes,” said Thompson, glancing down at his “Who is taking us to the car?” she declared to no one in particular. Ferragamo -ons. Turner Sports’ was also stopped in her tracks. In search of a play- Later when James inquired about a post-runway on-air chat with er, she accidentally looked into a dressing room, “Whoa. What’s happening? I don’t LaVine, a 19-year-old rookie, a TNTer told him, “We’re not talking to want to see naked men,” before taking one more fl eeting look.

It’s all part of Kesha’s new look. The line launched fi ve years 14-year-old, fresh off her breakout Last year, she dropped the brazen ago into what has become a very performance in the Coen brothers’ FASHION SCOOPS dollar sign that replaced the “s” in challenged contemporary market, “True Grit,” in their Miu Miu fall her name (i.e. Ke$ha). “I just kind where fast fashion players have 2011 campaign and she’s been of feel like that part of my life was scooped up share with trendy a front-row standby ever since. NEW HIRE: Saks Fifth Avenue has A MAKEOVER STORY: There was really symbolic,” she said. “It was looks. The Cut25 brand is set And, it should go without saying, tapped the publishing world something a little bit off with really wild and crazy, and I was at lower price points than the she’ll be at any or Miu Miu to bolster its fashion offi ce. singer-songwriter Kesha as she so young. I have a bad money sign designer’s main line, but still not parties. This is what she was doing Rae Ann Herman, most recently a made her way past the fashion tattoo [on my hand] to remind me as low as Zara or H&M. On the at the Prada SoHo store where contributing editor for Harper’s runway-cum-school yard that of those years forever, but I just company’s Web site, Cut25 goods other, albeit less-predictable Bazaar, Condé Nast Traveler was the backdrop for Adam kind of outgrew it.” ranged from $63 for a matte notables — Kesha, Zosia Mamet, and O, The Oprah Magazine, Selman’s fall show. It wasn’t that This being Kesha’s fi rst fashion pleated top (the look Dwyane Wade and Gabrielle has been named Saks’ vice the bleached blonde looked week, she has plans to take full was initially priced FOR MORE Union — were circulating. president and fashion director bad, just different — prompting advantage. “I’m going to DVF and at $250) and $495 SCOOPS, SEE The space was ready for accessories. Herman also the front-row photographers to and DKNY,” she said. for a white diagonal for a party. It had been held freelance positions at Elle question, is that her, or isn’t it? “I’ve been making music and I’ve drape jumpsuit. WWD.com. bedecked in disco-era and Self magazines and before It was indeed her, though their started exploring acting and I kind Azrouël will show trappings from Michael that she was the accessories confusion was merited given that of wanted to start exploring all the his main fall collection Wilkinson and Tim Martin, director for Glamour magazine, the “Tik-Tok” singer normally different forms of art. I’m starting on Sunday. — EVAN CLARK commissioned by Miuccia Prada where she covered the appears in and sparkles. to dip my toes in a lot of different for the latest of her “Iconoclasts” accessories market for 10 years. Instead, she was wearing a fl oor- waters.” — ALLY BETKER HAILEE TALKS PRADA: “This is, like, series. “It’s a lot to take it. It’s just The Saks fashion offi ce, length printed dress from the a very Prada moment,” Hailee spectacular,” Steinfeld said, her which guides the buyers on designer’s previous collection. CHANGES AT CUT25: Rumors were Steinfeld said on Thursday night. eyes widening. She was standing products and trends, has two “This is something kind of out swirling that Yigal Azrouël would For a just-turned 18-year-old, under a gold-tinged mannequin other vice presidents and of the ordinary for me to wear shutter his lower-priced Cut25 she knows what she’s talking with gold rays sprouting out of its fashion directors: Colleen Sherin, — it’s head-to-toe, really long, collection. A spokeswoman for about. The actress has already head, swinging on a gold swing. for women’s ready-to-wear, and a little more modest than I’m the brand said Friday that the earned herself “friend of the “That is insane, in a good way,” Eric Jennings, for men’s wear, used to wearing,” she admitted. label is not closing, but would be brand” status with Prada. It’s a she said of the golden, luxury sex home, food, gifts and beauty. “But I think it’s really cool and repositioned, with details to come relationship forged four years ago, swing. “I kind of want it in my — DAVID MOIN interesting.” at a later date. when the house booked the then- bedroom.” — TAYLOR HARRIS