BIG BASH BERGDORF GOODMAN PACKED THEM IN AT THE ARTY TOUCH PARTY FOR ITS 111TH TAPS ARTIST RETNA TO ANNIVERSARY. PAGE 9 DECORATE ITS POP-UP. PAGE 12

CHAPTER 11 FILING Authentic Brands Eyes HMX Rescue

By VICKI M. YOUNG

WILL IT WORK the second time around? WWD That is the question hanging over HMX Group and its related operations, which on Friday filed a volun- tary Chapter 11 petition for bankruptcy court protec- MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 tion in Manhattan — the second time in four years the company has gone into bankruptcy. While a deal is in place that could keep factory jobs in the U.S., there’s no guarantee that plan will come to fruition and, if it doesn’t, the venerable men’s wear brand could once again find itself a political issue in a presiden- tial election race centered around the economy and American jobs. Both President Obama and challenger Mitt Romney are known to wear the firm’s brands. Pretty According to the Chapter 11 petition, the compa- ny listed assets of up to $50,000 and liabilities of be- tween $50 million and $100 million. The company’s Canadian affiliates are not part of the bankruptcy filing. HMX — which owns as its core brands Hickey Freeman and Hart Schaffner Marx — also has up to Tough a $65 million debtor-in-possession credit facility with Salus Capital Partners, its pre-petition lender. Delivered in a palette of As part of the bankruptcy filing, HMX signed an agreement to sell the company to Authentic Brands milky pastels, these Group, with the firm’s U.S. factories, showrooms and studded stunners work other assets of the operating component to be sold to a new entity, or Opco, that will be owned and man- a girly motif without aged by existing management. As the licensee, Opco an ounce of saccharine. will be required to pay a royalty to Authentic Brands. For more spring The agreement, with Authentic Brands as the “stalking horse,” is subject to better offers in a bank- accessories trends, ruptcy court auction. see pages 4 and 5. HMX faces significant hurdles even under the plan unveiled Friday. Authentic Brands, with the backing of Leonard Green & Partners, is seeking to buy the company’s brands. But it is not funding the operating division SEE PAGE 6

Versace’s New Concept

By LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — It is no secret that Donatella has a soft spot for New York and the Versace store opening today in SoHo hinges on this affection while sticking to the brand’s roots. “The brand has a rock soul. The store is a small jewel and fits with this area and its young, bohemian mood,” said the designer a few days ahead of her trip Christian Louboutin’s patent there for the opening. “New York is the city I love the leather pump, Anton Heunis’ most in the world, where I had a home for 12 years, acrylic, brass and glass crystal and where I count more friends than in .” necklace and Valentino Garavani’s The opening of the concept store, located on Lucite and metal clutch. Mercer Street, will be marked by a cocktail event on Wednesday. The blueprint was conceived by Donatella Versace and English architect Jamie Fobert. The 1,785-square-foot store launches a new project: A number of curators, from designers to artists, hand- picked by Versace, will offer their personal visions or interpretations of the brand through a collection of limited-edition products. Christopher Kane, who de- signs the Versus collection with Donatella Versace, is the first curator. He will offer items including T-shirts with archival Versace images, golden earphones em- bellished with the brand’s iconic Medusa head, and a board game titled “Medusa & Greca.” Versace also underscored the relevance of associat- ing with and catering to young customers. “Through the H&M [collaboration] and [designing outfits for ] , I’ve met so many young people. They inspire me and they are really important for me,” she explained. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT SEE PAGE 3 2 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012 WWD.COM

LVMH Readies Samaritaine Project Bekah Jenkins at the By MILES SOCHA Bergdorf Goodman party.

PARIS — As Bernard Arnault often says: Luxury takes time. That’s certainly the case for his Right Bank retail jewel Samaritaine, which is now eyeing an opening in mid-2016, some 11 years after the department store was forced to close because it was deemed a safety hazard.

Yet it’s easy to see why EICHNER Samaritaine president Jean- Jacques Guiony brims with ex- STEVE BY citement about the multiuse proj- The vaulted glass ceiling and Art Nouveau ect, which will also incorporate a PHOTO luxurious Cheval Blanc hotel. mural at Samaritaine. During a tour of the site on ON WWD.COM Friday, Guiony showed off the styles, presented multiple chal- for safety reasons related to fire views of the Seine River and lenges and encountered numer- risks, “it’s a very important ele- EYE: Paris monuments future hotel ous administrative snags. ment of the building that we will Bergdorf Goodman celebrated its 111th birthday at guests will enjoy, and the glass- When construction work final- keep to some extent,” he noted. The Plaza with designers, models and socials, including domed area under one court- ly begins, likely in mid-2013, the The project also spans 95 , Jason Wu and . For more yard, which is ringed by an Art building fronting Rivoli is to be units of affordable housing, a day photos, see WWD.com/eye. Nouveau mural depicting pea- demolished, with Japanese archi- care center for 60 children, and cocks and an intricate band of tecture firm SANAA plotting an 215,000 square feet of offices. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS ironwork incorporating bunches ultramodern facade of undulat- At a time of intense one-upman- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. of grapes. ing glass that will invite shoppers ship for Paris hotels, the future WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. A century ago, merchants to traverse through three court- Cheval Blanc promises to dazzle, VOLUME 204, NO. 84. MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, profited from the sun-drenched yards and discover some 280,000 with most of its 80 rooms and suites Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine space to display hats and fine square feet of retail space. offering spectacular views of Paris Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: apparel. The next-generation Other parts of the building are landmarks. The seventh floor, S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, Samaritaine will use it to house landmarked, from the Art Deco boasting high ceilings and edged and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax restaurants in order to help lure facade and signs facing the river, with balconies, is to be dedicated Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North the surging pedestrian traffic on to the intricate railings in the Art to the hotel restaurants and bars. Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please Rue de Rivoli to explore the en- Nouveau sections, framed by hulk- Architect Edouard François has write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. tire block-long complex. ing steel beams incorporating deli- been contracted to design the hotel. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine Guiony, who is also chief fi- cate curlicues rendered in plaster. The Samaritaine department is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription nancial officer of Samaritaine’s Guiony pointed out that the store — a stone’s throw from the term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt parent LVMH Moët Hennessy floors were originally composed Louvre museum — was founded of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New Louis Vuitton, acknowledged that of glass bricks to funnel sun- in 1870, with LVMH acquiring a York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at the complex site, an agglomera- shine down to lower levels at a majority stake in 2000. The new www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. tion of buildings straddling sev- time when artificial lighting was project is expected to create Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at eral centuries and architectural poor. While most will be removed some 2,400 jobs. P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Carrefour Sells Colombian Operations SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

PARIS — Shares in Carrefour ate annual revenues of about 1.5 driven by emerging economies ‘Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of WWD, published SA rose 5.9 percent on the Paris billion euros, or $1.96 billion at as Southern continued daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, bourse Friday after the retail current exchange. to struggle. and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November for October 1, 2012. Publication No. 019-241. Annual subscription price $129.00. giant said it had sold its opera- Carrefour, the world’s sec- Turnover in Latin America 1. Location of known office of Publication is 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. tions in Colombia for an enter- ond-largest retailer behind Wal- rose 5.2 percent during the 2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the Publisher is 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. prise value of 2 billion euros, Mart Stores Inc., characterized quarter, with sales in Brazil 3. The names and addresses of the Publisher, Editor and Managing Editor are: Publisher, Will Schenck, or $2.62 billion at current ex- the disposal as in line with its — Carrefour’s second-largest 750 Third Avenue, New York, New York 10017. Editor, Edward Nardoza, 750 Third Avenue, 10017. Managing Editor, Pete Sadera, 750 Third Avenue, New York, New York 10017. change rates. new strategy of “focusing on market — edging ahead by 4. The owner is: Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., published through its Fairchild Fashion Media division, 750 Third Carrefour said the Chilean geographies and countries in 0.1 percent. Avenue, New York, New York 10017. Stockholder: Directly or indirectly through intermediate corporations to the group Cencosud, which operates which it holds or aims to devel- Analysts had hailed the bet- ultimate corporate parent, Advance Publications, Inc., 950 Fingerboard Road, Staten Island, New York 10305. 5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total in Chile, Brazil, Peru, Argentina op a leading position.” ter-than-expected results as amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None and Colombia, would take over The transaction with a sign that the reforms being 6. Extent and nature of circulation its 72 hypermarkets, 16 conve- Cencosud should be finalized be- put into place by new chair- Average No. Copies each issue Single Issue nearest nience stores and four cash-and- fore the end of the year. man and chief executive officer during preceding 12 months to filing date carry units. Excluding sales of Carrefour said sales rose 2.1 Georges Plassat are beginning — M.S. a. Total No. Copies 33,725 29,014 gasoline, they are said to gener- percent in the third quarter, to bear fruit. b. Paid Circulation (1) Mailed Outside-County Paid 17,798 16,537 Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (2) Mailed In-County Paid 0 0 Study Offers Closer Look at Online Shopping Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the 10,441 10,412 people conducting online pur- ingly popular in mature Asian Mails Including Sales Through By KRISTIANO ANG chases in the three regions. markets like Korea, Hong Kong Dealers and Carriers, Street Ninety percent of respondents and Singapore. In Hong Kong, Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution FASHION IS the second-most- had made online payments re- 13 percent of online purchases Outside USPS® popular product category when cently, as opposed to 67 percent were made on smartphones and (4) Paid Distribution by Other 83 0 Classes of Mail Through it comes to online shopping and a year ago. The most popular 11 percent on tablets. the USPS consumers are increasingly product category for online shop- “The prevalence of smart- c. Total Paid Distribution 28,322 26,949 using mobile phones and tablets pers was physical books, CDs and phones and tablets translates to d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (1) Free or Nominal Rate 2,114 152 to make purchases, according DVDs (45 percent) while 37 per- easier online access for consum- Outside-County Copies to an upcoming study of online cent of digital purchases were for ers to retailers anytime, any- included on PS Form 3541 consumption behavior in Asia, fashion-related items. where,” said Paul Jung, Visa’s (2) Free or Nominal Rate 0 0 In-County Copies Russia and Africa. According to the study, custom- head of e-commerce solutions included on PS Form 3541 For its e-Commerce Consumer ers have become more willing to for Asia Pacific, Central Europe, (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies 0 0 Monitor Research 2012 study, shop digitally because of the grow- Middle East and Africa. “We ex- Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS Visa worked with market re- ing perception that online shop- pect to see more people browsing (4) Free or Nominal Rate 1,794 659 search provider TNS to survey ping is secure. They attributed and shopping on-the-go.” Distribution Outside the Mail more than 8,000 respondents, all this to security measures such as Another takeaway for retailers: e. Total Free or Nominal Rate 3,908 811 Distribution of whom were between 18 and 55 Verified by Visa and MasterCard’s Ensure you have an informative f. Total Distribution 32,230 27,760 years old and used the Internet SecureCode service. Web site. Ninety-eight percent of g. Copies not Distributed 1,495 1,254 h. Total 33,725 29,014 at least once a week. The respon- Ninety-two percent of re- those surveyed indicated that they i. Percent Paid 87.87% 97.08% dents were located in Hong Kong, spondents indicated that they browsed online for more prod- . Paid Electonic Copies 25,725 27,941 Korea, Japan, Singapore, Russia, expected to make online pur- uct information before making k. Total Paid Print Copies(line 15c) 54,047 54,890 +Paid Electronic Copies the Philippines and Vietnam. chases in the next 12 months, purchases. Sixty percent said the l. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) 57,955 55,701 Visa offered to WWD an exclu- suggesting exponential growth main reason they browsed the Web + Paid Electronic Copies sive preview of the study, which may have slowed. However, pur- was to find out more about pos- m. Percent Paid(Both Print & 93.26% 98.54% Electronic Copies) will be released later this month. chases on portable devices such sible purchases while 55 percent 7. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. The survey suggests signifi- as smartphones and tablets are of respondents use the Internet to (Signed) John W. Bellando, Vice President cant growth in the number of expected to become increas- decide where to buy products. WwD MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012 3 WWD.COM

Looks inside the new store. Versace Vibe Comes to Downtown NYC {Continued from page one} The opulent mosaic harks back to Gianni Referring to Fobert, whom she described as Versace “without being a copy,” it is “deeply “an artist,” Versace observed: “He has a very Italian, but not a cliché,” and will be the center- different approach from my design. I like to sur- piece in every new store, said Fobert. round myself with people who have different He noted that an “instant rapport” was ideas.” She highlighted his exploration of di- formed with Versace. “She is unbelievably sharp verse materials and his “conceptual” mind-set. and really understands architecture.” “The blueprint is not too far from the DNA of The boutique will offer Versace women’s and

the brand and reflects who I am today, bridging men’s apparel and accessories, watches, a selec- the past with the future,” she said. tion of home pieces and jewelry. Versace was impressed by Fobert’s research of The new store concept will be extended to Byzantine mosaics in Syria and Jordan through a the Paris flagship on Avenue Montaigne in the series of extensive trips. A marble mosaic, which first quarter of 2013. was inspired by a Roman one that dates back to Chief executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris

800 A.D., sits as the main element in the store. said the SoHo store is “a strategic opening, balanc- “Photos of floors of an- ing downtown with the cient churches were Fifth Avenue boutique.” reminiscent of the style He said the com- of Gianni’s houses,” pany is enjoying dou- said Versace, whose ble-digit growth in the brother was a collector ’’ U.S. “As of the end of of antiquities. September, retail sales Versace credited are up 41 percent on Fobert with the idea of a like-for-like basis,” showing how the brand noted Ferraris. is projected into the fu- There are 11 Versace ture while mindful of stores in the U.S., one the past. “The mosaic Versace Collection in appears as if it was dug Beverly Center in Los up, as if it was being Angeles, two outlets discovered,” she said. and a Versus corner in The new era of the Las Vegas’ CityCenter. brand is reflected in Versace brands are the Plexiglass and available in 200 multi- brass elements that brand stores in America. are suspended and not Ferraris said while directly placed above last year sales were the mosaic, which rep- evenly split between resents the roots of retail and wholesale, the label. the latter now account The designer said The blueprint is not too for 40 percent of rev- the color palette of enues, as the company the mosaic revolves far from the DNA of the invests in building around white, black, its network of stores gray, brown and red. worldwide. The intended effect brand and reflects who Growth in estab- is that it should “look lished markets like the like it’s been trod I am today, bridging the U.S., as well as in new on for a long time.” regions from Brazil to Curved walls add a past with the future. Asia, helped Versace feminine touch. return to profit in 2011, “The conversation — donatella versace posting earnings of 8.5 was more about cul- million euros, or $11.8 ture and not about million, compared with lighting or materi- a loss of 21.7 million als,” said Fobert, who previously worked with euros, or $28.6 million, in 2010. and Selfridges. “Donatella Versace Revenues last year rose 16.4 percent to 340.2 is shaping the renaissance of the company and million euros, or $472.6 million. we discussed how the store should manifest Retail investments in 2012 include the open- Aquino ing of 10 units in Greater China and Southeast

that and where the brand should place itself in John

retail. There is a tension between the past and Asia, a Versace Collection store in Milan and by the dynamic future she is creating, and this ten- four new stores in the Middle East — in Beirut,

sion is positive.” Kuwait, Dubai and Abu Dhabi. photos

w22a003a;8.indd 3 10/19/12 6:48 PM ’’10192012184923 4 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012

SO MANY ACCOUTREMENTS, Spring 2013 SO LITTLE TIME. HERE, THREE OF THE SEASON’S TOP TRENDS. FOR A COMPLETE ROUNDUP OF SPRING’S KEY ACCESSORIES, Accessories SEE WWD.COM/ACCESSORIES. — ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT

MARC JACOBS ▲ Getting Graphic Bold patterns in black and white pack a statement- making punch.

▲ AQUAZZURA

▲ LOUIS VUITTON

▲

▲ BALMAIN

▲ JIL SANDER ▲ DRIES VAN NOTEN WwD monday, october 22, 2012 5 WWD.COM

So many accoutrements, so little time. Here, three

s Versace of the season’s top trends. For a complete roundup of spring’s key accessories, see wwd.com/accessories. — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout

Swarovski s

s Pucci

Call of the Wild Brian Atwood Go exotica with Chinese dragons, Furla Brazilian birds and lots of fringe.

Marni Saint Laurent Stella McCartney Ancient Greek sandals for Marios Schwab. Christian Louboutin Isa Tapia

Nicholas Kirkwood

s s Tory Burch s each day of the week

This week: for an extensive look at spring’s accessories from New York, , Milan and Paris, see

WWD.com/accessories. Nine Ricci Pierre Hardy Prada s Louis Vuitton s

s Alexander McQueen

Sherbet Scoop I scream, you scream, we all scream for these luscious shades of sherbet. s

s Mulberry Dior, McQueen and Van Noten photos by Xavier Granet; Pucci and Versace by Davide Maestri; Blahnik by John Aquino

w22a004a(5);9.indd 2 10/19/12 4:54 PM 10192012165629 6 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012 WWD.COM HMX Group Files Chapter 11 André Leon Talley and Zandra Rhodes

{Continued from page one} cluded just the valuation of the IP assets, and not although it will keep production at the loss-making other HMX assets, since those are considered plants. That means HMX chief executive officer part of the going-forward operations. The other Doug Williams will need to find an investor who bids were said to have included valuations for can help him buy and fund the operating division. the IP assets, and for other assets not needed Some financial experts believe that could be a tall when there is no going-forward operation, such order, given that it typically is hard to get financ- as HMX’s real estate, inventory and accounts ing for a new entity, Opco, that doesn’t have a prov- receivables. That might mean that the sum of en track record in terms of profitability. those parts equaled to a higher bid than the one According to James “Jamie” Salter, chair- Authentic Brands put on the table. man, president and ceo of Authentic Brands, his Politically, it made sense for HMX to choose firm plans to use its marketing expertise to help Authentic Brands since it gives management a fight- the company reach a younger customer. Other ing chance to try to keep factory jobs in the U.S. key points to his strategy include divesting the There’s a question of whether Authentic Brands

Canadian factory, acquiring other brands that are as licensor could terminate the licensing ar- synergistic and will help keep the American fac- rangement and at some point move jobs overseas. tories full, and taking the labels international. According to Williams, that’s not possible. “We’re not changing the ,” Salter told “The license agreement provides for a long-term WWD. “Doug and his management team will be license,” he said, adding that there’s no provision the licensee. Doug will keep the two factories in in the contract where Authentic Brands has the op- Rhodes on the Road America and another strategic partner will take tion to end the license early. the Canadian factory.” He said he’s currently ne- Noel Beasley, president of the union Workers By KATHERINE BOWERS gotiating with two companies, both of which cur- United, said he is aware of the Authentic Brands rently operate their own production facilities. He bid, but not with the specific details such as how BOSTON — “I have known Zandra Rhodes since.…” mused declined to identify the two prospective buyers. the operating company will be funded. Vogue contributing editor André Leon Talley during a pri- Salter said Williams has already lined up the fi- “That will be disclosed [in the bankruptcy] and vate dinner held in Rhodes’ honor Tuesday night at the nancing to create an operating company. “But·· he’d reviewed by the court,” he said. Massachusetts College of Art and Design here. like to have better financing so he’s shopping the There are union contracts at each of the three “Since we were children,” Rhodes chirped. deal he has,” Salter said. factory locations. “We would certainly anticipate “I was going to say since the Civil War. We were vampires,” Williams declined to comment about the specif- that anyone buying the company would assume the Talley responded. ics of the Authentic Brands deal. contract,” Beasley said. Such was the offbeat rapport between two Diana Vreeland Salter said one of the key selling points for The union president also said there could be protégés who met when Talley was an assistant to Authentic Brands’ bid is that “we like that it’s a renegotiation of the union contract, and that and who have known each other the better part of 40 years. American-made. We think there’s a play there. The the union is prepared to negotiate if needed. Rhodes, who will receive an honorary degree from MassArt brands are really good, we just need to put some But would obligations under the old contracts, next year, came to celebrate the opening of her traveling show, life back into them.” such as pension benefits and health care, go by “Zandra Rhodes: A Lifelong Love Affair with Textiles.” Talley He said Hickey Freeman and Hart Schaffner the wayside? came to emcee the evening. The two sat beside each other at Marx appeal primarily to men over 35. “But Not necessarily, Beasley said, adding, “We the front of the room: Rhodes, tiny with bob and frothy we’re really good at social media and the ce- would bargain on behalf of our members. We’ve scarlet gown, and Talley, colossal in a black eyelet robe. lebrity end and we will been down this road a lot “You can’t survive in fashion without an original point focus on making them of the time with [garment of view,” Talley said, adding later that Rhodes’ authenticity more hipster. The styling manufacturing]. We’re not “drove her to the top.” is great, we just have to There’s no question in my particularly worried. We’re Rhodes is forever defined by her flair for visual drama. In bring them to life.” looking for buyers with college, she designed a head scarf printed with hand-drawn Authentic Brands’ mind that the company deep pockets who can fund curls. When she wore it, she’d use eyeliner to doodle a few most recent deal was the operation.” more trompe l’oeil tendrils on the sides of her face. In the in June when it ac- moving forward will And if it looks as if there same period, she began experimenting on her “boring brown” quired the IP assets of might not be solid funding hair. Green streaks, her first foray with dye, looked fabulous Sportcraft Ltd., through in place for a new HMX op- but left stains all over her sheets. which it said it planned operate factories.…We erating company? Vreeland got Rhodes her first sales commissions at Henri to reenergize the rec- “That’s when we start Bendel and Sakowitz in Houston, moves that helped her to reational sports indus- believe in our people the boycott process. We’ll open her own London store. try. The company, which do whatever we need to After admiring Elsa Schiaparelli’s collaboration with seems to favor the ac- and our factories. do,” Beasley said. Salvador Dalí to produce fabric with “rips” drawn on it, Rhodes tion sports and enter- The union already had tore her own tainment and celebrity revealed a plan to step up fabrics and fas- licensing sphere, owns — DOUG WILLIAMS political pressure over the tened them back the intellectual property HMX GROUP factories, and had reached up with beaded assets of Marilyn Monroe, out to Ron Burkle’s safety pins. Silverstar and Tapout. Yucaipa Cos. about bid- The run of Salter also believes there’s an opportunity to ding for HMX. torn dresses bolster the brands’ sportswear offering. “If we Both Williams and the union president said was a “fiasco can get the mix better, we believe we can grow they’ve had the requisite support from lawmak- for my shop. It this company.” ers. They include lawmakers on Capitol Hill — MENCHELLI frightened cus- Williams emphasized that there’s interest Sen. Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.), Rep. Louise tomers,” she in keeping HMX’s operations intact because Slaughter (D., N.Y.) and Rep. Jan Schakowsky (D., FABIOLA recalled. But speed-to-market issues, higher labor costs over- Ill.) — and local politicians Illinois Gov. Patrick BY the look earned

seas and shipping costs worldwide give the Quinn and Mayor Martin Moylan of Des Plaines, PHOTO her the moniker firm a competitive advantage by manufacturing Ill., where the shuttered Seaford Clothing Co. Looks from the traveling show. the “Princess Stateside. “American manufacturing is more plant ··was located. of Punk” and competitive today than it has been in a long For the immediate future, it’s business as usual. became iconic enough that the pieces are collectors’ gems. time,” he noted. The DIP facility will “allow HMX to flow fabrics Talley’s Vogue colleague, Hamish Bowles, said he recently pur- Williams also disclosed that Opco won’t be going to finished goods and ship the orders on time to the chased a jersey punk dress from its original owners. forward with the special markets group, which pro- retailers,” Williams said. Talley asked her about the way ideas reverberate through duces the Pierre Cardin and Austin Reed labels. “We are pleased to provide a DIP facility to the industry now — fast-fashion chains iterating runway While the business is substantial, it’s not profitable, HMX Group that provides the company with looks in a six-week turn and bloggers reporting by the minute. the ceo said. the liquidity, time and a runway to effectuate a (“Bloggers blogging on the street corner photographing them- But the overriding question remains: What’s transaction that seeks to maximize value for all selves blogging,” said Talley.) Rhodes said designers shouldn’t going to happen to the factories? “That’s the mil- of the company’s constituencies — its employ- be worried about being elbowed out of the process. lion-dollar question,” one source said. ees, management, shareholders, vendors and “A designer is someone who comes up with a new idea,” “There’s no question mark about the facto- the estate,” said Andrew H. Moser, president of she said. “There’s always a place for originality.” ries,” said Williams. “There’s no question in my Salus Capital. The show, which celebrates Rhodes’ skill as a colorist and mind that the company moving forward will op- HMX’s predecessor, Hartmarx Corp., filed for is a tribute to her conscientious archiving, is staged so that erate factories.…We believe in our people and bankruptcy court protection in 2009 in Chicago, fabric panels sit behind the garments constructed from them. our factories.” and the operating division was acquired out of Rhodes, who considers herself foremost a textile designer, He said he plans to visit the factories in person bankruptcy by Mumbai-based firm S. Kumars doesn’t use patternmakers. Instead, she relies upon cleverly this week to update them on the situation. Nationwide Ltd., which holds a 90 percent stake designed repeats to “engineer” garments. She’ll print a motif WWD also has learned that Authentic Brands’ in the renamed HMX Group. London-based in- she wants on a neckline as a platter-sized circle so the fabric bid might not have been the highest offer re- vestment firm Emerisque Brands owns a minor- can be simply cut out at the center and draped over the head. ceived by the company, although it was the one ity interest. For a 1971 dress, she cut out individual chiffon banana leaves, that supposedly allowed for the continuation Meanwhile, HMX bankruptcy counsel will be layering long, dangling pieces over another printed banana of the operating division. And that’s where the in front of Manhattan Bankruptcy Court Judge leaf fabric so the dress sways like an actual plant. components of the bids got interesting, sources Allan L. Gropper today to finalize first-day orders “We’ve had our digital textile class through to study how said. As reported, all potential bidders, including and obtain permission to continue with day-to- Zandra works,” said Lisa Tung, MassArt’s director of curato- Authentic Brands, were interested in the IP as- day operations. rial programs and professional galleries. “Because we are an sets of HMX. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS educational institution, it’s so important to have opportuni- It is believed that Authentic Brands’ bid in- FROM JEAN E. PALMIERI ties like this to study great work up close.” EXPLORE theARCHIVES now online

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866.689.2106 | [email protected] 8 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012 WWD.COM accessories Craftmanship Key at Première Classe

sons ago, said clients appreci- By KATYA FOREMAN ate the fact the company has its own atelier. Highlights from the PARIS — Traceability and craftsman- spring-summer 2013 collection ship were among buzzwords for buyers included a leather bucket bag attending the recent Première Classe with a canvas closure and a silk Tuileries accessories trade show, with scarf decorated with hunting il- Stingray premium European accessories brands lustrations by Esther Bonté. iPad holders enjoying a strong presence at the event. For bags, general trends in- by Manufacture Buyers are willing to pay for savoir-faire cluded pastels, metallics, safari, Jean Rousseau. and tradition, exhibitors said, but they are camouflage and mixed media. Jewelry IP & Mr Famous, Naohiro Takeda, placing small orders and imposing un- fell into two camps: either ultrafine or owner of Baycrews that co-owns reasonably short delivery times. big, colorful and clunky, with rose Madame Figaro, a -based multi- Exotic skins were in rich supply, gold and ceramic among continu- brand store, said: “By the time we con- from a new line of python belts at ing themes. vert the price it will bring it up to $900. Maison Boinet to glistening black “Handbags are still clas- You can buy a Miu Miu bag for that.” stingray iPad holders at Manufacture sic, with a lot of pastel colors,” Business is still tough in Japan, he said. Jean Rousseau, a French luxury watch said Kusule Ushe, a buyer for Likewise, Dania Ghandour, a buyer straps specialist, which launched a leath- Isetan, Japan. for Cream, based in Jeddah, Saudi er goods line six months ago. The brand, Naomi Bartee, an accessories Arabia, loved Austrian brand Andy which has its own tannery and manufac- buyer for Barneys Co-Op in New York, Wolf ’s “on trend” sunglasses range but turing site based in France’s Franche- A mixed-media bag by Jérôme Dreyfuss. said: “I’m seeing longer lengths on was put off by the price tag. “They’re Comté region, which borders Switzerland, salon as you get better design, better qual- necklaces and there is more colorful the same price as Prada and ,” had an on-site artisan creating card hold- ity and creativity.” jewelry, incorporating colored stones. she exclaimed. ers at its stand. She especially liked the ceramic ani- For bags, the minimalist look is still key “We are looking for classics, items that mal jewelry creations by Spanish new- — Dear Celine is still setting the tone.” promote craftsmanship. It’s important to comer Andres Gallardo, and the “graphic For materials, she saw a lot of patch- explain to people how and where designs but fine” handmade filigree designs by working and plays on surface contrast, are made,” said Sandy Bontout, a buyer Mallarino. The latter brand is based in such as leather with canvas or solids for Zalando Group. Paris but works with artisans in Colombia mixed with print. Nicole Sewall, apparel and accessories from where sibling founders Lucia and Buyers were competing for exclu- buyer for the Anthropologie-owned wed- Isabella Bueno-Mallarino hail. sives for cult London costume jewelry ding and special occasions e-commerce Sophie-Charlotte Van Robais, direc- brand Mawi’s just-launched line of loud site, Bhldn.com, echoed: “For our custom- tor of heritage Bordeaux, France-based bejeweled glitter clutches. er, she wants to know who the designers hunting brand Alexandre Mareuil, which “Everybody wants light and easy are. We always set aside a budget for this launched its leathergoods line three sea- but interesting, and bags that close,” commented Doris Pang, sales director at Jérôme Dreyfuss, which continues to raise the bar in terms of textile re- search. New styles included a mixed- media bag combining croco-effect calf, elaphe water snake and canvas. “Buyers are going for extra special ON-DEMAND pieces, there are no more seasons, the leopard designs are still strong,” added Pang. Jocelyn Whipple, a specialist in sus- tainability who was sourcing for Livia VIDEO Firth’s green concept store, Eco Age, which is based in West London, lauded the oversized eco-friendly hand-woven A camouflage canvas bag totes by Antonello, which is based in by Italy’s IP & Mr Famous. WWDDigFall12.FORA.tv London but works with cottage industry weavers based in Sardinia. “What I look Livia Stoianova, co-founder of On for is attention to workmanship and cel- AuraTout Vu, said buyers were more ebration of craft,” said Whipple. hesitant than usual about placing or- While many of the show’s small ac- ders, pushing for discounts and request- cessories designers were concerned ing very short deliveries. “People no with going upscale, it didn’t always play longer want to order for the long term. in their favor, with buyers at times balk- Some want deliveries in two to three ing at prices. weeks. I’ve even had a few clients want- Lingering in front of a classic-shaped ing to take product away with them, and handbag in camouflage canvas by Italy’s that’s new. It puts huge pressure on de- signers for production.” Demand was still strong for high-end product, how- ever, she said, such as a crystal cuff re- tailing at around $1,000. “It’s tough out there and summer BARNEYS NEW YORK SEPHORA THE NEIMAN TARGET Daniella Vitale Julie Bornstein MARCUS GROUP Dustee Jenkins was slow with the Olympics but we’ve Aaron Shockey seen strong sales growth,” commented Katie Wade, buyer for accessories, lin- gerie and swimwear for Cocosa, an on- line designer discount store owned by Mohamed Al Fayed. First-time exhibitors at the salon included hosiery designer Nicholas Messina, who had just launched his Bar-a-collants.com e-commerce platform for his France-made collection of tights and stockings with handmade seams. Messina presented col- laborations with fashion and foot- wear designers Steffie Christiaens and Fred Marzo on two designs, MAITRE with new hook-ups to be intro- duced each season. “Since the Eighties, not much DOMINIQUE

BY has happened in the hosiery uni- USE CODE 12DIGFALL FOR 20% OFF verse. I wanted to introduce my A handwoven bag by Antonello. PHOTOS take on it,” Messina said. BARE NECESSITIES: Dree Hemingway was among the art lovers at The New York Academy of Art’s annual Take Home a Nude WWD STYLE auction. PAGE 11

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER MEMO PAD

POLITICALLY CORRECT?: The 25th- anniversary issue of Spanish Marie Claire boasts 322 pages and a famous guest editor, , who even shot the cover image: a portrait of models Heidi Mount, Jon Kortajarena and Kati Nescher. But it’s Lagerfeld’s admonishment of France’s new Socialist government and its antirich attitude — exemplified by a 75 percent tax rate on incomes over 1 million euros — that’s getting most of the attention. Over the weekend, a slew of international media seized on Lagerfeld’s use of the word imbécil (idiot, in English) to describe French President François Hollande — which Marie Claire notes is misleading. “I confirm that the declaration (and the word ‘imbécil’) was taken out of context. Karl Lagerfeld was referring to Hollande’s policies, especially those connected with the taxes pertaining to large fortunes,” editor in chief Joana Bonet told WWD over the weekend. During an interview, Bonet said to the designer, “I hear Hollande hates the rich,” to which he replied, “He’s disastrous. He wants to punish them and, of course, they’re leaving (the country). Nobody is investing. Foreigners don’t want to invest any more in France — and this is not working. Besides, France — apart from fashion, jewelry, perfume and wine — is not competitive. Nothing else sells. Who buys French cars? Not me.” Lagerfeld addressed the furor on national TV in France Sunday night. He denied to France 2 interviewer Laurent Delahousse that he used the term idiot. “Of course I never said that! I don’t speak Spanish, I speak a little of Italian but no Spanish,” he said. “I saw him [Hollande] on TV and I found him very fun, spiritual and intelligent,” adding, “The luxury business is an industry that makes a lot of money and should not be considered like something we should be ashamed off.” If Hollande is indeed stung by Lagerfeld’s remarks, perhaps he should consider the designer’s advice about barbs in the press, revealed in the magazine’s “guest star” introduction. Lagerfeld says, “I don’t care if people I admire criticize me because their opinion is valuable to me. But with those I don’t care Tight Night about, it makes no difference (what they say), good or bad, because I don’t read them.” NEW YORK — Bergdorf Goodman went all out for —WWD STAFF its 111th anniversary celebration, commandeering A GEM OF A GIRL: Model Ruby the ballroom at The Plaza and stocking its Fifth Jean Wilson, who opened Avenue neighbor with plenty of socials, designers and closed the spring show in New York and models, including Jason Wu and Erin and channeled a modern- day Edie Sedgwick vibe, will Heatherton. For more, see page 10. also appear in the American designer’s next campaign. “She’s the girl we chose,” {Continued on page 11} 10 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye. EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTOS

eye Bergdorf brain trust, past and present: Jim Gold, Karen Katz, Burt Tansky and Joshua Schulman. A Very BG B-day

ON THURSDAY night at The foot of available space. Those Plaza, and Coco on hand included Michael Kors, Rocha were among a tightly Karolina Kurkova, Roberto Cavalli, Karolina Kurkova in Roberto Cavalli. packed crowd angling toward a Carolyn Murphy, Gilles Mendel, Hilary second-floor ballroom as they Rhoda, Olivier Theyskens, Hanne Gaby talked about a YouTube gem Odiele, Thom Browne, Prabal Gurung, they had recently discovered. Peter Dundas, Tabitha Simmons and Legendary “I just tweeted and Coco Joseph Altuzarra. former re-tweeted about a week ago As the bold-faced names Bergdorf [a video] of Barbra Streisand bottlenecked around the entryway, chairman Coco Rocha in Zac Posen performing...” Posen said. Burt Tansky, the former president with the designer. Ira Neimark “In Bergdorf,” Rocha chimed and chief executive officer of with wife in, finishing her date’s sentence. Bergdorf ’s parent The Neiman Jackie. In the clip, filmed for a 1965 Marcus Group, and former classical singer Sasha Lazard television special, a very young Bergdorf ceo, surveyed the room. sang a rock-operatic version of Streisand parades around “How do you like this “Happy Birthday.” Rubix Cube, an empty Bergdorf Goodman crowd here tonight?” he asked a white-suit-sporting cover sampling the luxury retailer’s with a smile. “And they just band, followed it up with a set wares while performing “Second keep coming. It hasn’t stopped of Eighties hits as soluble as the Hand Rose.” Given Thursday for a minute.” purple cotton candy then being night’s occasion — a lavish 111th The crush was a tribute passed around the room. anniversary party for the store to the sway of the retail Before the presentation, Jason at its equally luxe Fifth Avenue destination, which lifelong Wu had been standing on a small neighbor — the short, luxury class New Yorker Olivia staircase with his three dates and its generations-crossing, Chantecaille summed up neatly for the evening — , social media-aided discovery, early on in the proceedings. Meghan Collison and Zuzanna Bijoch. seemed an appropriate topic “I grew up very close, just a “My first-ever store was of conversation. few blocks away,” she said of the Bergdorf ’s” the designer said, Carolyn Murphy in J.Mendel “It was quite amazing,” store. “My mother worked across recalling his earliest memories with Gilles Mendel. Rocha concluded. the street. As an institution of the retailer. “I moved here In honor of Bergdorf ’s it was the ultimate in chic, in 11 years ago. I decided that this visually compelling, if not taste, in choice — there’s such was the store that I wanted to numerically round birthday, an array of things. You knew you be in. And six years ago I got in party planners lit the ballroom would always find something for it....It’s so glamorous and it’s the in the store’s trademark purple everybody in the family.” best store. I mean that’s New tint. Cotton clouds hung from the The party peaked a little York and that’s luxury.” ceiling. Oversize model animals before 11 p.m. when the store’s And what did making it and mannequins dotted the executive team, including in New York, and at room’s exteriors. At times it felt president Joshua Schulman and Bergdorf ’s, mean? that the crowd, which skewed senior vice president Linda “I might be able to make it in Albert Maysles toward designers, models and Fargo, joined a handful of Paris afterwards,” he said with with Iris Apfel. socials, occupied every square designers onstage while the a smile. — MATTHEW LYNCH

Alana Michael Kors and Zimmer and Rita Ora Tabitha Simmons Hanne Gaby Carly Cushnie, Michelle Ochs, Eddie Borgo, Odiele Linda Fargo and Prabal Gurung. in Pucci. WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2012 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS To the Naked Eye HAIDER’S STAR: Karl Lagerfeld is adding appreciative head bobbing mode. THE NEW YORK ACADEMY OF ART’S more star wattage to this week’s Fashion The new Web site, ralphlauren. annual Take Home a Nude auction may

Group International Night of Stars co.jp, features a style guide devoted to have been a bit of a misnomer on its EICHNER gala. He has been tapped to present trends and signature items and houses 2012 go-around on Thursday night.

Haider Ackermann with a Star award a Japanese version of RL Magazine, a “It’s interesting because there are STEVE at Thursday’s event. Lagerfeld joins quarterly lifestyle publication. David many pieces here that have no relation BY presenters Renée Zellweger, Viola Davis, Lauren said elements of the high- to nudity,” gourmand Daniel Boulud said, Sarah Jessica Parker and Tory Burch, among tech site will be incorporated into the standing on the 10th floor of Sotheby’s, PHOTOS others. No word, though, on whether the brand’s other e-commerce properties where artwork up for silent auction designer plans to bring along his famed in the U.S. and Europe over the next hung on every wall. “I guess you have to kitten Choupette, who would surely be few months. “This is almost like a interpret the meaning?” Naomi Watts in Victoria the belle of the ball. prototype of the future,” he said. Art-minded guests including Jamie Beckham with Liev Schreiber. — MARC KARIMZADEH Bush Lauren is taking advantage of Tisch, Anh Duong, Eddie Borgo, Maureen her first trip to Japan to promote her Chiquet, Thakoon Panichgul, Padma Lakshmi EURO VISION: is parting charity-focused brand Feed Projects. and Jennifer Creel drifted through the five been snatched up by a fellow bidder, to ways with Aeffe SpA, the Italian Before the event, she made gallery rooms, eyeing the varied works. the tune of $2,800. manufacturer that has produced his a trip to the Rooms trade show, where Though a healthy dose of exposed flesh “We’ll pay more than that, a lot more signature collection since the mid- Feed bags are on display. “Just the way was on display, there were plenty of than that,” he playfully protested to Nineties, WWD has learned. According people dress is so hip and so unique,” she PG-13 rated pieces as well, including a Eileen Guggenheim while Schreiber’s to market sources, publicly traded Aeffe said of the city. “The quality of design is 1983 Polaroid of ; a David wife, Naomi Watts, in a Victoria could announce a separation as early as just so cool.” — AMANDA KAISER Armstrong gelatin silver print of a shirtless Beckham structured frock, looked today. Gaultier’s plans for his top line drifter, circa 2003, and Aliene de Souza on smiling. Watts proved to be a less could not immediately be learned. TEMPORARY TEXAN: After two days of Howell’s “Ursa Major Lost at Sea,” a 3-by-7- impulsive shopper, keeping her paddle Aeffe recently struck a deal with public appearances, photo ops and foot linocut print of what appeared to be in her lap during the live auction, Emanuel Ungaro to produce and cocktail parties, Christian Louboutin ended a bear doggy-paddling through water. The intermittently applying Rosebud distribute its women’s clothing and his Houston stay in sophisticated Texas cub proved to be a hit. Salve to her pout and texting on her accessories. Aeffe controls the Alberta style, compliments of designer devotee “I like that a lot,” said Liev Schreiber, iPhone. Highlights from the 10-piece Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini brands and philanthropist Becca Cason Thrash. who beelined toward the frame shortly auction included “Grisaille in Pink,” and also produces the Cacharel and Unlike the crowds who stood in after arriving. Upon closer inspection, a watercolor painting from Francesco Cédric Charlier labels. — WWD STAFF line for hours at Saks Fifth Avenue so the actor realized the piece had already Clemente (who, though he was being Louboutin could sign their red-bottomed honored by the charity, didn’t make LAUNCHING IN JAPAN: Greeted with a stilettos, the scene at Thrash’s Memorial an appearance until the post-auction heavy downpour and a swirl of Tokyo manse was downright cozy, with just 26 Dree Hemingway in dinner); a poured glass sign spelling Fashion Week activity, David Lauren and people invited to her Tex-Mex themed Valentino. the word “Nude” from Rob Wynne, and his wife, Lauren Bush Lauren, hosted a dinner. The dress code was Texas eye Will Cotton’s “Lollipop Tiara Study,” the party Wednesday night at the Ralph cocktail casual, which translated to latest take on his signature confection- Lauren flagship on Omotesando boots, jeans, pearl snap Western shirts headwear hybrid. The night racked up Avenue to fete the launch of the and chaps, although a few pairs of more than $775,000 for the arts academy. brand’s Japanese e-commerce site. Louboutin heels were spotted in the mix. Though Dree Hemingway, who nuzzled on Tomoyasu Hotei, one of Japan’s most “Christian doesn’t get to Texas all beau Phil Winser’s arm much of the night, famous guitarists, performed a mini- that often, so his public appearance at wanted to pitch in to the charity, the set of tracks including his hit “Battle Saks was supposed to end at two, but model wasn’t exactly in the buying mood. Without Honor or Humanity,” best at five there was still a line of people “I’ve been really bad,” Hemingway, in a known from the soundtrack for “Kill waiting. He’s turned into a Texas rock red Valentino floral dress, said. “I need Bill,” which sent many guests into star,” Thrash said. to make another round and really take a Asked about the red-sole look at the work.” trademark dispute between Louboutin Winser came to his girlfriend’s aid: and Yves Saint Laurent, he was “We already have a few nudes at home.” succinct. “It’s over.” — TAYLOR HARRIS Talking about the busy days in Houston, Louboutin was much more loquacious. “I get so much positive David Lauren energy from the women who come and Lauren and see me. I like it when people tell Bush Lauren you their story. It creates a sense of community,” he said. — HEATHER STAIBLE

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. who surprised her. “He has a wicked sense of humor,” MEMO PAD she said. The boss, in a skinny suit and retro Spaces {Continued from page 9} horn-rimmed eyeglasses, sat right in Jacobs told WWD, noting that front of the stage between O’Neill and photographer Juergen Teller shot the Chambers, an investment banker who COMMERCIAL ads, as usual. — MILES SOCHA made his millions in private equity REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, DESIGNER WANTED and is one of the owners of the New PRODUCTIONS Designer for NJ based Clothing Firm: Full service shop to the trade. Design clothing & accessories. Create KRISTINA’S NIGHT OUT: On Thursday, Jersey Devils. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 original garments or design garments a day after she was named editor of She did not know who Thomson that follow well established fashion trends. Create sketches & samples of WSJ. magazine, Kristina O’Neill was at was wearing. “My money’s on Prada,” apparel or accessories and write speci- the magazine’s flagship shindig, the she said. fications using current technologies. Showrooms & Lofts Develop the line of color and kinds of Innovator of the Year awards. She Overall, it was a good night for BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS materials. Apply w/2 copies of resume Great ’New’ Office Space Avail to HR, Grey Matter Concepts, Inc. 107 had the best seat in the house: right nerds. Awards went to Dorsey and ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Trumbull Street, Bldg. #F6, Elizabeth, next to Wall Street Journal managing architect Wang Shu. Malcolm Gladwell NJ - 07202 editor Robert Thomson, who introduced was seated next to Julianne Moore and PRODUCT DVPMT UP TO $90K her from the stage to a crowd that Linda Evangelista. Home Fashion, Kohl’s Wendi Deng Murdoch Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 included , Twitter But it was also auspicious for [email protected] founder Jack Dorsey, Ray Chambers, the O’Neill. United Nations’ special envoy for “It was loaded for symbolism for Sales / Production Assistant malaria, and . me,” she said. “I hope it signifies Men & Women’s cut & sew knit mfr seeks manager assistant to help with O’Neill, who had spent the last what’s to come.” sales, production coordination & admin duties. May require working 12 years at Harper’s Bazaar, most Though O’Neill doesn’t know what with overseas offices in different time recently as executive editor, was still the magazine will look like yet — “too zone. Good writing & client communi- cation skills, detail-oriented, apparel a little overwhelmed by the whole early to really say” — she said there merchandising experience preferred. thing. “Did I think, one day after will be some continuity from the Email: [email protected] being announced for the post, I would Deborah Needleman days thanks to Ruth be on a red carpet? No,” she said. Altchek, who was promoted to editorial She still hasn’t even moved from director, in charge of overseeing Off Hearst Tower to Avenue of the Duty and the magazine. But won’t that Americas. On Friday, she still had to mean that the magazine will look a clock in at Bazaar. Her first day at the lot like what Needleman is planning Journal is Oct. 29. for T: Style “Emotionally, obviously I’m moving Magazine? O’Neill said she hasn’t even to WSJ. But physically, I’m still at thought about the competition yet. Bazaar,” she said. “The biggest distinction right now (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Thursday was the first time she got is that we have two more letters in our some social face time with Thomson, title,” she said. — ERIK MAZA 12 WwD monday, october 22, 2012 WWD.COM Louis Vuitton Takes Arty Approach in Miami

“This piece is much more col- By REBECCA KLEINMAN orful, layered and painterly than my usual flat, graphic style in a MIAMI — Louis Vuitton is get- single color,” he said, almost in ting into gear for the long haul disbelief that a graffiti writer who in South Florida. came up in Los Angeles’ gang Preceding its permanent culture could be working with a Miami proper store due in 2014, luxury brand like Louis Vuitton. the brand opened a temporary “It shows how people are more location Friday at 170 N.E. 40th accepting of this niche of art that Street in the Design District, wasn’t highly regarded a short formerly occupied by the Tomas while ago.” Maier boutique. It chose to work Chapoulaud-Floquet said the with an existing layout rather house originally reached out to than follow a prototype, ac- Retna to mentor inner-city chil- cording to Valerie Chapoulaud- dren as part of its charity com- Floquet, president and chief ex- mitment to the Overtown Youth ecutive officer of Louis Vuitton Center in Miami. In addition to North America. the facade and scarf carried at “The look will be unique the Design District store, he cre- among our doors,” said ated three works for the second- Chapoulaud-Floquet, who jazzed level’s gray-and-white VIP salon up the property’s plain white ex- filled with natural light. terior with a vibrant mural by The entrance’s original, sec- The temporary Vuitton store in Miami. Los Angeles-based artist Retna. tioned-off area was transformed “It made sense given the context into the Travel Room decorated of being in an arts district.” with brass accents, Parisian an- still in its discovery stage,” said American clientele. Chapoulaud- store opens at Aventura Mall fol- It’s the first time Louis Vuitton tiques and teak furniture. The Chapoulaud-Floquet, who omitted Floquet said Russian and lowing its temporary location has commissioned artwork for a same materials are used in the fine jewelry and watches for the Chinese tourists don’t frequent launched last year. The consider- facade versus traditional place- women’s department, whereas launch as well. “I don’t think they Miami as much as other major ably larger retail experience fea- ment throughout interiors. Retna, men’s wear is enveloped by dark will capture this neighborhood’s U.S. cities, though she expects tures two floors linked with an in- whose paintings are already dis- mahogany walls. A full assortment trendy, young clientele as much as the latter to arrive eventually. ternal staircase and a prominent played on warehouse walls in of accessories, eyewear, shoes, shoes and ready-to-wear.” Though similar items sell con- exterior facade. nearby Wynwood, based his latest costume jewelry and textiles is The brand’s Miami demo- sistently worldwide, she has high Chapoulaud-Floquet said local work on a scarf he designed represented. Sales will determine graphics have evolved since hopes for Miami, which already there aren’t immediate plans for for the house using his signature whether capsule collections for opening its first U.S. store outside ranks in the top five U.S. markets. more stores beyond the Design letters. The mural’s “Miami Vice” ready-to-wear are expanded. New York in 1981. Along with a “For decades, it’s been a pio- District and Aventura. palette of hot pink, teal and azure “We didn’t want to overload strong local base, Brazilians have neer city for us and still has a lot “As the market grows stron- blue pays homage to the tropical the space, and no one knows the become more prominent among more potential to grow,” she said. ger, though, we’ll look at other city he calls his second home. Design District’s potential. It’s a generally increased Latin In February, the permanent opportunities,” she said.

Fake Swiss Watches Seized Lacoste President Talks Stability counterfeit Samsung cellular By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN phones were discovered and are reassured, and so that the also seized by law enforcement. By Alex Wynne brand can develop in the most Sophie U.S. Immigration and This followed an opera- stable, continuous way possible.” Lacoste Customs Enforcement’s tion on Sept. 26 in which PARIS — Despite the drama Her plans include a con- Dournel Homeland Security Investigations Paraguayan Customs, work- surrounding her September tinued focus on building the unit, working with Paraguay’s cus- ing with HSI, identified and nomination as nonexecutive brand’s women’s business, for toms and law enforcement agen- searched a shipment of con- president of Lacoste SA, Sophie which Felipe Oliveira Baptista cies, said Friday they have made tainers sent to Ciudad del Lacoste Dournel said it’s busi- was named creative director in two major counterfeit busts. Este, Paraguay, from Uruguay. ness as usual at the firm best September 2010. His first collec- On Tuesday, Paraguayan au- The three containers and known for its polo shirts with a tion for the brand was presented thorities, working in collabora- their contents included coun- crocodile logo. in New York in September 2011. tion with HSI, seized counter- terfeit Xbox, PlayStation and Her principal focus going for- “Felipe’s collection has had feit watches under the Swiss Nintendo gaming systems. The ward will be to grow the brand’s a real impact, creating impulse brands Patek Philippe, Tissot, shipment, with a retail value women’s business and improve purchasing,” she said. While the Tag Heuer, Bulgari and Hublot, of $741,041, was seized by synergies between Lacoste’s man- designer’s role is principally with a manufacturer’s suggest- Paraguayan authorities. ufacturing partners, she said. about clothing, he is also in- ed retail price of $34 million. The seizures are the result Lacoste Dournel’s election volved in its image as a whole.

The investigation began of HSI’s Illicit Pathways Attack made headlines in France due to “Felipe is at the heart of the Lubrano Oct. 11, when Paraguayan au- Strategy. Over the last two de- a conflict between the family that system, creating synergies for JM thorities received information cades, transnational organized controls the firm — some 20 mem- women. The result is something by crime has transformed in size, very Lacoste, for which we had

about counterfeit products bers of the Lacoste family from photo being smuggled out of Silvio scope and impact — posing a three generations make up the ad- been searching for some time.” Pettirossi International Airport significant threat to national visory board, and own 65 percent Other growth priorities in- well: The company expects 2012 in Asunción by a criminal orga- and international security, the of Lacoste SA — pitting her head- clude the Live! franchise for wholesale turnover of 1.8 billion nization attempting to smuggle agency said. TOC networks are to-head with her older cousin, younger consumers, and an in- euros, or $2.3 billion, up 12.5 these goods out of the coun- proliferating, striking new alli- Marie-Beryl Lacoste Hamilton, creasingly premium positioning. percent year-over-year, Lacoste try, possibly destined for the ances and engaging in a range and dividing the family. Going forward, Lacoste Dournel said. Its apparel sales U.S. In addition, about 12,500 of illicit activities. It seems the conflict was large- Dournel — who will work hand- in the first half increased 20 ly generational. The 36-year-old in-hand with chief executive of- percent, while shoes climbed 50 Lacoste Dournel has been on the ficer Christophe Chenut in his percent and watches 60 percent. Doneger Shifts Ghize to Tobe Division company’s board since 2005, is more operational role — hopes Clothing accounts for about 60 part of the second generation of to increasingly reinforce syner- percent of group sales. Leslie Ghize has been named strategic plans and new busi- the current family shareholder gies within different segments. About 90 percent of Lacoste’s executive vice president of the ness initiatives. structure and is a granddaughter This is not a straightforward business is done in international Tobe division of The Doneger In addition, Roseanne of founder René Lacoste. Her fa- task, given Lacoste’s unusual markets, with its largest country Group. She succeeds Catherine Morrison, who is the fashion ther, Michel Lacoste, who was the business model, in which all being the U.S., accounting for Moellering, who has left the com- director of Doneger, a position previous president, has resigned its product categories are li- around 18 percent of revenues. pany. Ghize, who continues as se- she has held since joining the from the board and is threaten- censed out to different part- As to media suggestions that nior vice president of Doneger company in 2006, had previ- ing to take legal action against ners. The largest of these is ap- supporting Lacoste Dournel’s and oversees the company’s ously worked for Tobe for 20 his estranged daughter’s nomina- parel licensee Devanlay (owned nomination was a covert take- Creative Services division, mar- years and will now oversee the tion. He had taken over from his by Switzerland’s Maus fam- over attempt by the Maus family, keting, public relations, art and fashion for Tobe as well. brother Bernard in 2005, after the ily), which owns 35 percent of she seems convinced that Lacoste editorial efforts, will report to Moellering had been with latter, who had been at the helm Lacoste SA. will remain a family firm. Abbey Doneger, president. Doneger since early 2010. of the firm since 1963, became ill. “We want to solidify the li- “Our results of the past few At Tobe, she will be respon- Doneger bought Tobe, which Asked whether the conflict censes we have and allow them years are strong and encouraging, sible for building and main- has provided fashion, trend and resulting attention bother to work together to give more and our aim is to go even further, taining client and industry re- and retail analysis since 1927, her, she replied: “I am concen- harmony and efficiency to our all the while ensuring the conti- lationships and directing the in 2005. trating on the company, so that system,” she said. nuity of the family’s control over day-to-day business activities,  — JEAN E. PALMIERI our employees and our partners Lacoste is already performing the company,” she said.

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