‘SATURDAY FIRST-ROUND TURNING 20 SHANGHAI TANG MAKES PLANS NIGHT’ TO MARK ANNIVERSARY. PAGE 8 BEHIND THE SCENES AT SAKS WITH ANDREW WIGGINS, RETAILER TEAMS WITH “SNL” THE NBA'S NUMBER-ONE FOR KEY TO THE CURE. PAGE 2 PICK. PAGE 10

POISON PILL ADOPTED Charney Set to Fight For

By EVAN CLARK

THE BATTLE FOR American Apparel Inc. is heat- WWD ing up with both ousted founder Dov Charney and the board that deposed him angling for position. But they are just the main combatants. On the sidelines are a host of interested parties MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 $3.00 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q Q — from lenders such as Lion Capital, which is owed $10 million, to would-be investors licking their chops at a brand that they believe should be much bigger and profitable. One financial player who took a look at American Apparel said there’s plenty of opportunity to improve the business. Inventories, for instance, could turn much quicker. “Everyone sees the quality of the brand,” said the source, who described Charney was “a very, very tal- ented merchant,” but said he had become a one-man band, personally overseeing the company’s 249 stores. “American Apparel, as a brand, should be big abroad,” the source said, noting it could do that and maintain it’s U.S.-based production philosophy. But how the brand develops from here depends on who’s in the driver’s seat. Summer The company scrambled over the weekend to set up a stockholder rights plan, or poison pill, to prevent ousted Charney from regaining control of the firm by accumulating more stock. Charney — a lightening rod libertine who was sidelined as president, chief executive officer and Lovin’ chairman for alleged misconduct — already owns 27.2 percent of the company, or 47.2 million shares. PARIS — Hedi Slimane looked back And on Wednesday he quietly inked a deal that to the Summer of Love for his spring would have Standard General buy at least 10 percent of the company’s stock and then loan Charney the Saint Laurent men’s collection — and money to acquire the stake. along the way encapsulated some of The New York-based Standard focuses on “com- the key trends of the season, including panies with complex capital structures that are un- bomber , as seen dergoing dramatic change.” And American Apparel SEE PAGE 9 in this embroidered model; graphic prints, and a SPRING 2015 Forever 21 Looking strong return of . For more PARIS on the end of the MEN’S COLLECTIONS To Double Business

Paris men’s shows, By MICHELLE DALTON TYREE see pages 4 to 7. LOS ANGELES — Don Chang is plotting a dramatic expansion for Forever 21. The founder and chief executive officer of the fast-fashion chain, based here, told WWD his “ulti- mate goal is to double the size of our company with- in the next three years,” giving it a footprint of 1,200 doors globally. And the company’s newest concept, F21 Red, could be key to that ambitious plan. Last month, Forever 21 launched the banner at the Azalea Shopping Center in South Gate, Calif., a working-class community about 20 miles south of here. The 18,000-square-foot store targets a value-orient- ed customer with a deeper selection of the Forever 21’s core items at seemingly sharper price points. The move surprised many analysts and retail experts, who questioned how the company would make its margins on $1.80 , $3.80 tank tops, $4.80 and denim starting at $7.80. “Are they doing this as a loss leader to take mar- ket share and trade the girl up, or are they that big and have such buying power that they can work on such razor-thin margins?” asked Liz Pierce, senior re- search analyst at Ascendiant Capital Markets. The answer might be both. Chang — who is known for being famously tight-lipped on the company’s plans — said the price points at F21 Red are actu- ally the same as those at Forever 21. It’s a wider PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI assortment that is the secret sauce for the concept. SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 WWD.COM ‘SNL,’ Saks Team for Key to the Cure THE BRIEFING BOX Like Bayer, who is a cancer By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG The Rag & Bone survivor, this issue is one that IN TODAY’S WWD design for the Ruiz is all too familiar with and “LIVE FROM NEW YORK.…It’s campaign was one she thinks requires a certain Key to the Cure.” inspired by amount of distance. Asked if she In what appears to be one of the Molly Shannon’s was wary about using humor in a Paris Men’s Fashion Week . For more, see WWD.com. more unlikely unions of two New Mary Katherine PSA that address what is such a York institutions, Saks Fifth Avenue Gallagher serious matter to many, Ruiz said, has teamed with “Saturday Night character. “Laughter is the best medicine — Live” for this year’s Key to the Cure and I’m a cancer survivor myself. campaign. As the Entertainment When you go through something Industry Foundation’s 2014 ambas- like that, you really don’t want to sadors for KTTC, past and pres- think about that. You want to go ent “SNL”ers Will Ferrell, Ana through what you have to do to get Gasteyer, Vanessa Bayer, Cecily well, but you want to be able to be Strong and Colin Jost were photo- courageous and laugh. I think it’s graphed wearing the Rag & Bone- terrific that they’re taking some- designed T- for KTTC. thing serious and saying, ‘We be- The all-in attitude seems simpa- lieve there is a cure for this.’” DABROWSKI tico beyond the fact that the two op- Neville said, “We wanted to erations are less than a block away support KTTC because cancer KUBA from each other in Rockefeller causes devastation and suffering BY Center — “SNL” is celebrating its to so many families.” PHOTO 40th season and Saks is nearing The final image used by Saks’ its 90th anniversary. To build on in-house creative time is a group the show’s milestone, seven New shot, though each “SNL”er had to The battle for American Apparel Inc. is heating up with both York-based labels have designed be photographed individually due ousted founder Dov Charney and the board that deposed him exclusive items inspired by vari- to their conflicting schedules by PAGE 1 ous “SNL” characters that will be the show’s staff photographer Mary angling for position. sold for a limited time in October. Ellen Matthews. Aside from fly- ing to Los Angeles to shoot Ferrell Don Chang, founder and chief executive officer of Forever (who liked the shirt so much he 21, told WWD his “ultimate goal is to double the size of our asked to wear it home), the other company within the next three years.” PAGE 1 locations were all in New York. On set last week at Root (Drive-In), Saks Fifth Avenue has teamed with “Saturday Night Live” Gasteyer and Matthews shared an for this year’s Key to the Cure campaign. PAGE 2 easy rapport, with the comedian gum snapping her way through Shanghai Tang is preparing for its 20th-anniversary various poses. Logistics being what celebrations in October. PAGE 8 they are, Saks brass dealt with los- ing Maya Rudolph in the 11th hour Tasaki is aiming to position itself as a fine-jewelry player as they would any other major with international ambitions. PAGE 8 photo shoot. For last year’s KTTC campaign, Penélope Cruz needed Ana Gasteyer being photographed for Saks Levi’s, Ralph Lauren and Wrangler were among the to be photographed in Spain due apparel brands retaining a place on Brand Keys’ ranking of Fifth Avenue’s Key to the Cure campaign. to her other commitments. And one the most “patriotic” brands. PAGE 9 year’s EIF ambassador, whom Ruiz T by Alexander Wang “Mango” end is set for Oct. 16 to 19 at all of declined to name, only had “two leather , anyone? For Rag & the company’s full-price stores as minutes” for the shoot. Nina Ricci’s Peter Copping and Hermès’ Véronique Bone’s David Neville and Marcus well as its online one and Off 5th But back to this year’s lineup Nichanian are among judges for the International PAGE 9 Wainwright, that meant a pleated stores nationwide. Known for their — “Everybody wanted to sign Woolmark Prize’s Europe regional awards. , white shirt and sense of irreverence, Rag & Bone’s on board. If we could have had inspired by the school Neville and Wainwright will make more spaces, we probably could Maison Lejaby has nominated Ivana Nonnis to the newly worn by Molly Shannon’s Mary a personal appearance at the Fifth have gotten more people to be in- created position of U.S. manager. PAGE 9 Katherine Gallagher character. Avenue flagship on Oct. 16. Their volved,” Ruiz said. “That, to me, The TV show’s Emmy-nominated unisex design is a first for Saks’ says the world is interested in Andrew Wiggins walked out of the NBA Draft in style as designer Tom Broecker KTTC initiative, as is spotlighting doing good things.” the number-one pick. PAGE 10 curated the selection. This fall, a handful of celebrities instead of And in all likelihood, the “SNL” IMAGES those two labels will share the one female A-lister, as was the setup fivesome — not to mention cur- Russell Westbrook’s collaboration with Barneys New stage, so to speak, in the Saks flag- in years past. Former ambassadors rent stars and perhaps some of York was celebrated Saturday night in Paris. PAGE 11

ship’s limited-run “SNL” concept include Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth the show’s alum — will spread BANK/GETTY shop with one-offs from Diane von Paltrow and Charlize Theron. the word via social media to a de- Marc by ’ fall campaign is making a statement

Furstenberg, Elizabeth & James, During the charity shopping gree unimaginable by one retail- PHOTO with a cast of real people and a social media twist. PAGE 12 Suno, Alice + Olivia and Eugenia weekend, Saks will donate 100 er. While Saks has not upped its Kim. While all of the proceeds from percent of the limited-edition media buy for the KTTC campaign, ON WWD.COM the $35 KTTC Rag & Bone T-shirt, KTTC T-shirt sales and 2 percent which will appear in September

which makes its debut Oct. 1, will of participating vendor sales to and October magazines, it is count- EDELSON/NBCU benefit the EIF’s Women’s Cancer local women’s cancer organiza- ing on all the interested parties to THEY ARE WEARING: Off the runways and onto the streets Research Fund, 30 percent of all tions, and in New York, Beverly take its message viral. DANA and sidewalks for some of the best looks from Paris Men’s sales from the “SNL”-inspired cre- Hills, saks.com and off5th.com, The potential impact is vast BY Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. ations will also be donated to that up to a total of $500,000 to EIF considering that “SNL” and Saks

cause. “SNL” creator and execu- Women’s Cancer Research Fund. have, respectively, 920,000 and SHANNON tive producer Lorne Michaels de- In the 15 years since the debut 321,000 Twitter followers alone, scribed the selection as “an incred- of its first annual charity shop- and the seven brands tied to this FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA ible tribute to the show’s history.” ping weekend, Saks has donated year’s KTTC campaign have 1.6 ERICKSEN; @ WWD.com/social Over the years, the show has more than $35 million to cancer million Twitter followers. (Von KYLE TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS spoofed its share of designers, in- research. Reluctant to give any Furstenberg leads that brigade BY [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. cluding Donatella Versace, John projections, Saks senior vice pres- with 693,000, and Wang follows WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC.

Galliano, and Mary-Kate and ident of marketing and public re- with 351,000.) Wang hinted at PHOTO COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Ashley Olsen, among others. A lations Kathleen Ruiz would only things to come by posting a T by VOLUME 207, NO. 131. MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and fall 2011 skit with guest host Ben say that 10,000-plus KTTC T- Alexander Wang video featuring two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Stiller was set in what was sup- have been produced — about Chris Kattan’s Mango character Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, posed to be a Rag & Bone store. 2,000 more than last year — and earlier this month and taking the Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services

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Any donations in Jack's memory may be directed to The THANC Foundation. www.Thancfoundation.org 4 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 C’est Fini Homme The Paris men’s shows ended their five-day run with looks inspired by the military, sailors, bohemians and sportsmen.

Dior Homme: Fashion’s rush to sporty and The show was mainly about tailoring lounge-y styles for spring could leave the worn in an offhand way, and businessman feeling high and dry. Dior — done in the swanky couture fabrics Homme’s Kris Van Assche proposed a that Elbaz introduced to the men’s solution, parading linear yet loose shapes universe — given a dressy spin. aimed at all kinds of Dior’s men, mashed Gangly young models passed through up with cheerful nautical sportswear. a set of doors propped on the runway and He opened the show with a trio of headed off purposefully, most of them deep blue tuxedos, announcing the lugging some rugged, useful bag and collection’s tailored focus and nautical looking suave enough to wear the same theme. There were three principal outfit through their nighttime activities. shapes, described backstage as The elongated drape jackets, loose classic, straight and “fashion,” the , Whipstitch trim and inky latter boasting tapered pants and a colors gave the show a Boy twang. cropped that closed with a toggle. Lustrous blousons, spongy trenchcoats The straight-lined silhouette, neat and were worn with tailored and slightly boxy, prevailed in various pants for more of a soigné take on guises: classic or shadow pinstripes, casual, even if they were paired with micro houndstooth or plain dove gray. aerodynamic . Scoopnecked tank tops in bold The show climaxed with a series of sailor stripes, reminiscent of Victorian languid looks in jacquard fabrics, in step swimwear, were the third element of with the season’s pajamalike mood, though the suit, adding a graphic punch and a familiar to the Lanvin universe. Elbaz youthful edge. said he has no problem dialing back the There were horizontal lines on pace of change. “Men are pretty stable,” he shirts, too, and handwritten shrugged, “even if they’re in fashion.” script — lifted from a Fifties letter penned by Christian Dior himself — that Hermès: “A manifesto of prints,” the approximated stripes or waves. The Hermès show notes trumpeted, latter ticked a trend box — the return to somewhat disingenuously. Véronique logos — in a discreet and classy way. Nichanian’s latest collection was A secondary street-art theme, another demonstration of calm and expressed as crayon squiggles on pale quiet chic — the reassuring kind denim and white shirts, seemed a impervious to the overstatement one forgettable sidetrack. might expect from large-scale scribbles Van Assche did a naval collection only and paint strokes, which appeared on two years ago, but it’s clear he had more everything from breezy trenchcoats and to say. Sailing in waxed yellow to pull-on pants. or papery navy leather were immaculate The opening look — a crisp, one- and chic enough to wear on Wall Street. button suit in tan — set the tone, the effortless tailoring and neutral Saint Laurent: Hedi Slimane continues palette calming the abstract printed to indulge his rock ’n’ roll fantasies on shirt underneath. the Saint Laurent runway; this season a To be sure, the fancy pants were new SPRING 2015 psychedelic romp that included one model and unexpected — jogging-style chinos who was a dead ringer for Jimi Hendrix — in blurred botanical prints or those and another for Lord Farquaad. big squiggles and splotches. They were PARIS Parading his spring men’s collection occasionally paired with cotton voile shirts MEN’S COLLECTIONS on the same night as Glastonbury was in bandana prints, but always in the same drawing to a close, it was plain the color story, and therefore hardly jarring. French designer is targeting the young What came to the fore was the festival crowd with his high-fashion sumptuous fabrics: immaculate cotton ▲ ▲ take on the Summer of Love. Blanket , serge and gabardine for shirts, Saint Laurent and macramé capes glistened blousons and , plus tissue-weight with metallic threads and embedded suedes and lambskin that gave straight- crystals. Velvet blousons bloomed with line bombers the of a camp shirt. of . Rainbow color gradations in familiar athletic pileups. The show sparkling starburst embroideries. Jean Forgetting the obligatory crocodile were cloudy on a dip-dyed T-shirt, or climaxed with a glimpse of something jackets came edged in metallic studs. item, here a in a deep bottle crisply graphic as horizontal stripes on new, unexpected and slightly jarring: Everything was pinned on the tightest green, Nichanian showed considerable a fine-knit . pearl embroideries swirling on gauzy black imaginable, giving his restraint, employing gauzy fabrics and Pot-patterned pants and shorts had a black T-shirts or clustered on the floral hunched models an aspect of Tim Burton only the occasional flash of color — a retro tropical flair, but were strictly “not prints, adding a 3-D aspect. Despite animations with their licorice-thin legs. pumpkin orange here, a glimpse of safe for work.” that touch, the collection lacked the Slimane seemed energized by the a teal green shirt there. electricity that Tisci usually delivers. hippie theme, decorating leather and Cardigans are not exactly the freshest : A four-seat Cessna airplane was suede jackets with fringe; blazers with idea out there. But then it dawns on you: dissected and strung over the circular Comme des Garçons: Fashion has always military braiding; a linen caftan with Nichanian’s are knitted from nubuck catwalk at Givenchy, exploding in four been a vehicle for political expression, gold filigree, and a camouflage jacket lambskin, a proclamation of understated directions, an installation by Dutch and Rei Kawakubo is hardly a stranger with golden tassels. luxury if there ever was one. artist Paul Veroude. Was it a signal of the to the concept. Backstage after her He accessorized looks to the hilt with military undercurrent in Riccardo Tisci’s contemplative yet rebellious show, the gaucho , metallic cowboy and Paul Smith: Gardening is a national spring men’s wear, full of multipocket soft-spoken designer explained the fringed — and completed the sport in Britain, and Paul Smith is a aviator jackets dangling ripcord zipper message she wanted to get across this Haight-Ashbury scene with a handful of quintessentially British designer, so it pulls? Or was it perhaps symbolic of a spring was “antiwar — but in a quiet women’s looks. should come as no surprise that potted designer pulled in too many directions? way, with no words,” she offered. Patchwork prairie , tapestry plants inspired his spring collection — The tailoring was strong and sharp, Kawakubo’s new model army paraded jackets and a sheepskin-edged vest and were dotted across the mosaic floor contrary to the prevailing loungewear in military jackets and matching drop- were among the best things yet shown of the circular Bourse de Commerce. mood in men’s wear this season. crotch pants or Bermudas, at times by Slimane, the merchandising wizard But this was no Chelsea Flower Shoulders were defined, lapels peaked displaying the remnants of their exotic behind Saint Laurent’s sales momentum, Show. Instead, Smith turned his and the fit taut, harking back to earlier prey via a faux leopard skin worn as up 27.1 percent in the first quarter. As collection into an ode to stoner culture, Tisci collections for Givenchy. cover on their backs. The designer Janis Joplin sang, “Get It While You Can.” with patterns incorporating cannabis Graphic , the collection’s took cues from the camouflage netting leaves and psychedelic imagery, main decorative motif, were applied the military uses to conceal its heavy Lanvin: “We’re all about an elegant including clowns with cactus hats and like warning tape; crisscrossing white weaponry to construct big-lapel coats look,” Alber Elbaz said backstage at a graphic banana peel motif (a post- shirts, bisecting polo shirts or strapped and knitted jumpers. The geometric Lanvin’s men’s show, his wingman Lucas munchies remnant, perhaps?). across the backs of filmy patterns of the punched-out fabrics Ossendrijver nodding approvingly. But His color palette was gorgeous, with or beefy stadium coats. A primarily then transitioned into more rock ’n’ roll then he quickly added that fashion a gamut of purple and blue shades black and white palette telegraphed a . Their combative boots featured shouldn’t be too perfect, idealized or that played out particularly well on dark, sober mood. exaggerated toes curved like elves’ overly stylized. “It has to look good in the satiny fabrics used for zippered Paint splatters and baby’s breath — or sabers, depicting Kawakubo’s life,” Elbaz said. jogging pants and suits with the ease flowers were the other prints, worn satirical take on the subject of war. WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Lanvin Hermès Paul Smith Givenchy

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway. GIANNONI GIOVANNI BY PHOTOS

Ami

Ann Demeulemeester: on the lilac and golden micro-printed In his first single- and double-breasted ensembles collection since yelled, “Let’s not make war, let’s dance!” being officially named creative Ami: The bell rings: School’s out for director of Ann summer. Alexandre Mattiussi set his Demeulemeester, youth-fueled spring show in a Parisian Sébastien Meunier high school, sprinkling real-life stuck to the codes of the students as props among the working brand and did the founder press and buyers. proud with a light-hearted The models were younger than usual, collection that played out in a parading looks that oscillated between monochrome and nude palette. boyish and playful or masculine and chic. Looks were layered yet Checks and stripes were in retained a sense of lightness abundance. The designer introduced a and romance, thanks to in oversize windowpane check for featherweight or sheer fabrics him and her, a nod to his future plans like the pastel organza that of launching a line for women, “who was cut into strips and pieced are stealing their boyfriends’ pieces together on candy-stripe jackets anyway,” as Mattiussi explained before and coats. These carried the show. He constructed a somewhat undertones of 18th-century boxy shirt jacket from Prince of Wales garments, as did the sleeveless check, while horizontal stripes looked vests that were spliced into fresh and cool on stand-up collar blazers some of the looks. Crinkled, raw-edged and varsity jackets worn over denim tunics added a layer of toughness. shirts. Colorful Windbreakers added a There were decorative effects, too, sporty touch. but always done with a light hand. A Throughout, nonchalance was the white was stitched with a delicate mantra. The torn blue jeans were as vital ecru floral pattern, while tone-on-tone to the collection as a blue-gray embroidery glistened from the mandarin- with rolled-up sleeves harking back to collared black coat that closed the show. Eighties chic, for which Mattiussi said Comme des Music has always been a powerful he found inspiration in John Hughes’ Garçons Ann Demeulemeester antiwar tool. The disco-ball reflections “The Breakfast Club.” 6 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014

Berluti: What is tailoring, if not catering to But Browne was in an even more experimental customers’ tastes? Noticing that a growing number mood this season, with “modern” and “future” Berluti Y-3 of men were requesting made-to-measure jeans, spooking his mind.“Did they glow in the dark?” leather jackets and other casual items, Berluti he asked backstage after the show. They did — creative director Alessandro Sartori decided to along with the models’ neon-coated nails. devote his spring collection to leisure pursuits. In part two, an army of sci-fi gamers boasted For starters, he traded the house’s trademark what Browne referred to as “tectonic” compositions. loafers for sneakers, which were worn with Consider blazers, , pants and vests everything from paper-touch waxed linen suits constructed from partially moving panels, which — in shades ranging from clay to olive, sunflower were based on the actual human anatomy, though and violet — to a more informal combination of “in a futuristic way,” as the designer explained. chinos with jackets made from cashmere-soft Other numbers, such as tartan varsity and short- leather in nubuck, suede and napa finishes. sleeve tuxedo jackets, had some heavy padding, A handmade sports constructed by further feeding into this season’s combative theme. master -makers from a single piece of Browne did not skimp on the fabrics, either. leather, the Playtime launched in a limited run Both collections impressed with embroidered of 100 pairs worldwide the day after the show. seersuckers, noble silk jacquards and madras While the tailoring erred on the side of plaids developed especially for the show, along conservative, with a slightly longer , with Browne’s very own registered tartan pattern. there was plenty of innovation in the materials. These included a lightweight silk, normally used Junya Watanabe: Junya Watanabe never strays far for shirts, that was glazed with a protective film from denim, and his slouchy and cropped jeans to make it suitable for a trenchcoat. for spring — decorated with leather , hobo Origami techniques were used to shape the patches or sashiko stitching — looked like winners. pockets and lapels of suit jackets, as well as a What was new for this versatile Japanese backpack made of leather so thin that it can be designer was the full-scale ode to his homeland, folded flat into a rectangle. from the serene landscape painting as the runway backdrop and the jutting samurai Y-3: Yohji Yamamoto says he’s been asked the hairstyles to the grunting soundtrack. question at least a thousand times: Why black? Japanese indigo fabrics are unbeatable, and His spring Y-3 collection, inspired by surfing and Watanabe employed plain , ticking stripes tropical gardens, was the answer, to “let people and folksy florals for his trademark patchwork know Yohji can use color,” he said backstage. jackets: trim blazers, jeans jackets, cardigans and Though he kicked off in a somber mode, with his beloved reversible Field & Stream styles with black blousons in matte and shiny textures and their utility pockets and snap closures. baggy cropped pants, the Japanese designer let The show climaxed with denim’s best friend loose with Hawaiian-style floral prints that were — the T-shirt — done in an array of indigo spliced in as panels on a black suit or a slinky motifs. Basics are definitely back. silver zip-up jacket, or used as a -to-toe motif on the closing look. Umit Benan: Photographer Slim Aarons, who served An artificial shade of light green appeared as as inspiration for Umit Benan this season, would piping on a black jacket, and in a dégradé have had plenty of motifs to shoot at the designer’s T-shirt paired with gray Neoprene jogging pants. spring show, set on the tennis court of a fictitious “For the holiday season, so many people go to Cartagena country club. Benan’s insouciantly chic the islands and they enjoy the beach, swimming pack flashed three-piece suits featuring a -y and surfing,” said Yamamoto, confessing a belted jacket or double-breasted blazers with elastic passion for swimming and diving, without bands around the wrists, allowing these hobby equipment, and feeling reborn under the water. athletes to wear their sleeves half up if needed. So what color does he wear on the beach? Sumptuous twill fabrics upped the luxe “Black,” he replied with a grin. factor of common parkas and key-ways, while Benan’s new knitwear manufacturer provided SPRING 2015 Kenzo: California kids Carol Lim and Humberto retro-inspired graphic crewneck jumpers and Leon drew inspiration from Paris for their spring posh jacquard . men’s collection — a gaudy celebration of the Offering petrol green, cream, tan and PARIS city’s storied monuments, and even its tourist various shades of blue, the collection struck a traps. The invitation — a metal loop jangling with balance between chic and slightly tacky, which MEN’S COLLECTIONS mini Eiffel Towers, like the ones hawked in the is essentially how Benan feels about Latin Tuileries — said it all, as did a soggy, open-air set America, “though in a good way,” as he explained on the banks of the Seine that had Joe Jonas and backstage. What lent further authenticity to Jesse Metcalfe huddling under . Benan’s characters was the casting — the The city’s most iconic emblem found its way designer hired his jet-setters off the street, much onto oversize polka dot parkas, as well as more like the Colombian mariachi who serenaded the Umit Kris Van Cerruti somber, biker-inspired jackets, via holographic models on the court with his guitar. Benan Assche badges that were either stitched or printed onto the fabrics. Elsewhere, the simpering face of Cosette Kris Van Assche: Add Kris Van Assche’s name — the famous character from “Les Misérables” — to the long list of denim devotees this season. stared out from a knitted sweater or tank top. Youthful and loosely tailored suits were his main The Ladurée macaron color palette — pastel statement in lustrous fabrics in jeanlike shades. pink, mint, sky blue and peach — was perhaps The show started out awkwardly. The Belgian too sweet and a bit cliché. Underneath the sugar designer decided to speed the fraying process coating, however, was a street-smart and appealing and slice open the knees of his mottled denim mix of biker pants with zipper details running pants and shorts. It came off as an unfortunate down the calves, rubber-bonded as well as malfunction. crossover biker/jeans jacket in heavy cotton twill. Things improved rapidly with a series of cool aviator blousons lengthened into car coats Maison Martin Margiela: Normally, a parachute fabric and summer parkas. Shirts were the other main would not be considered overtly elegant, yet the story, with traditional stripes and checks spliced design team at Maison Martin Margiela made it into crisp camp shirts. look that way on long, languid coats worn over For those who prefer to wear the denim trend breezy shirts and blazers. Done in glossy rust, light sparingly, Van Assche offered clever accessories, beige and sunflower yellow, the collection’s light including stonewashed belts, denim backpacks and fluid trench and car coats looked as easy to piped in white and two-tone blue suede shoes. wear as a T-shirt, yet surprised with their sensual GIANNONI sense of refinement and natural cool. Elsewhere, Cerruti: Cerruti’s spring collection marked a a tightly belted safari jacket gave a pair of tuxedo departure for creative director Aldo Maria pants a sporty feel. Neoprene backing did the Camillo, who took the brand in a more casual GIOVANNI BY same to a leather perfecto. direction with outfits inspired by a road trip The show was fresh and compelling, though not from Palm Springs to Los Angeles. without mishaps. Tailored pants with mismatched He channeled basketball gear with long vests OTHERS legs, or with pant legs of mismatched lengths and trimmed with contrasting bands and paired with ALL fabrics, were without rhyme or reason. baggy Bermuda shorts. The latter were layered over

cropped pants and topped with patchwork printed MAÎTRE; Thom Browne: Thom Browne played the game silk shirts and mismatched jackets, in a somewhat of “Tron” for spring. Harking back to the clumsy take on the urban-meets-polished aesthetic sci-fi classic by Steven Lisberger, the show championed by Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci. DOMINIQUE was divided into two parts, showcasing two While the outfits likely had a familiar air BY essentially different collections. for Chicago Bulls shooting guard Jimmy Butler,

Part one kicked off with futuristic, laser attending his first fashion show, they may throw PHOTOS saber-wearing guards walking between a customers who cherish the label for its rich Y-3 group of masked models, sitting orderly in Italian fabric heritage and classic style. It’s one AND their gray suits, coats or jackets — all new thing to veer off the beaten path, but another to

reinterpretations of Browne’s famous gray suit. throw out your road map. CERRUTI WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Kenzo Maison Thom Junya Martin Browne Watanabe Margiela

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Loewe Acne Sacai Jean A.P.C. : Jonathan Anderson’s first Paul design effort for Loewe brought a Gaultier youthful air into the Spanish leather goods company. The designer dusted off the house’s accessories, crafting its signature Amazona bag from Oro suede leather in a larger format and introducing a range of new calf leather trolleys in oxblood, tan, smoke and navy with archival graphic seams. As for the ready-to-wear, his unisex approach to fashion could be seen in the asymmetrically cut cotton shirts and body-hugging knitted tops. The designer also proposed a languid two-button suit, a first for the leather goods maker.

Acne: Turn off that Seventies show: The Fifties are the favored design decade of Jonny Johansson, creative director of Stockholm-based Acne. His enthusiasm shone through in his crisp, roomy clothes for spring: Harrington jackets, camp shirts and backyard khakis with skateboard influences that kept them from being retro.

Sacai: Having turned garments inside out : His ’n’ hers Case in point: a black bomber A.P.C.: The collection included sharp for her last collection, Sacai designer matching outfits, anyone? The with a cheeky hieroglyphic high- fitted jeans; tight short- Chitose Abe set about splicing and Paul Gaultier couple will be sporting print in which the female figures sleeve shirts, and classic sailor overlaying them for her spring lineup. A near-identical looks next spring, as are pictured wearing cone-shaped T-shirts in a muted palette with lots of bomber jacket came with a ribbed black the men’s lineup contained several brassieres, which was paired denim. Codesigner Louis Wong also knit body, while a plaid shirt featured a items that also appeared in the with black trousers with a similar presented his Louis W. by A.P.C. capsule waistband lifted from a tracksuit bottom French designer’s resort collection Egyptian-inspired pattern etched out of beautifully cut bomber jackets in and stitched on upside down. for women. in silver studs. materials including supersoft suede. 8 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 ’’ Shanghai Tang Makes Plans for 20th

of , a col- By SAMANTHA CONTI What we want laboration with the Australian label AM LONDON — Shanghai Tang is to do is create Eyewear, is in the revving its engines in prepara- pipeline. The light- tion for its 20th-anniversary weight , which celebrations in October. A major the basis of are based on clas- runway event is in the works, sic Chinese round new collections set to launch what could be frames, have mirror and there are plans to push fur- lenses and a strong ther into Europe. a platform for eyebrow shape. Tang On Oct. 24 in Shanghai, the is also planning to brand plans to unveil China launch 10 mandarin- Fashion Chic, a large-scale tomorrow. collar jackets in Pop runway event that aims to el- Art colors or Liberty evate top homegrown talent — — RAPHAËL LE MASNE prints, and in mate- in addition to its own. As part DE CHERMONT, rials such as pink of the event, Tang has asked SHANGHAI TANG velvet and orange three designers — Masha Ma, leather. Wang Peiyi and Tang’s women’s Tang has also col- designer Joseph Li — to de- into the big fashion world, time laborated with the velop capsule collections that to raise the flag and show the Shanghai-born contemporary blend their aesthetics with the world that we have been grow- artist Jacky Tsai to create an Shanghai Tang DNA. ing significantly,” he said. original series of six works in- “One of the main challenges Over the past two years the spired by nature and “reflect- for the fashion industry in China brand has opened’’ flagships in ing the optimism of modern is the lack of public relations Shanghai and Hong Kong, and platform there — or in the East. has more than We do not yet have a critical mass 45 boutiques of designers, so they all have to A phone case. across Asia. “In go to London, Paris or Milan to 2015, we will be show,” said Raphaël le Masne de for Shanghai Tang, which coming to the Chermont, the brand’s executive was founded by David Tang West with new chairman, in an interview. “What and is owned by Compagnie concept stores — we want to do is create the basis Financière Richemont, to turn the first of which of what could be a platform for up the volume in Europe. will be in London.” tomorrow,” he told WWD. “A few years ago, we twisted He added there are There are also plans to build the brand in a more contem- even plans to “slow- Limited-edition on October’s event, and create porary way, and now Mainland ly open up some sunglasses. the China Fashion Chic awards Chinese are our number-one categories to whole- ceremony, fashion academy and customers. In the beginning, sale.” He said they China,” according young designers’ competition — the brand was geared to- would most likely be homeware to the brand. The works and eventually to take the event ward travel retail, and toward and accessories. of art will be sold and also to cities such as Milan, Paris Westerners traveling in Asia. Later this year, Shanghai adorn Shanghai Tang merchan- and London. But that was not scalable. What Tang will mark its two decades dise, such as cashmere , Le Masne de Chermont we have now is scalable. It’s in business in a number of other bangles, lacquer boxes, note- said it’s also the right time time for us to step up and go ways. A limited-edition pair books, clothing and tea sets. A special-edition look.

the periods in question, they slid from $177.6 million to $176.7 million due to the

Japan’s Tasaki Grows Beyond Pearls weakening of the yen. “A portion of the growth is because of worked to transform the brand’s image the brand’s increasing pull, but another By KELLY WETHERILLE from that of a pearl seller to that of a fash- portion of the growth is due to the expan- ion-forward jewelry house with a distinct- sion of the overall market,” Tajima said, TOKYO — Sixty years after its founding ly Asian point of view. He concluded that citing how the growth of the fine-jewelry

as a small pearl farming and wholesale only a fashion designer, and not a jewelry and bridal markets in Japan has helped company in the western Japanese city of designer, would be able to make the type both Tasaki and its competitors. Kobe, Tasaki is attempting to position it- of jewelry he had in mind for Tasaki. That “On both the design side and the qual- self as a fine-jewelry player with interna- realization brought him to Panichgul. ity side, the competition has become ex- tional ambitions. “I thought we needed to offer designs tremely intense,” the executive said. “I don’t want people to get the sense that, rather than looking nice in a show- Ayako Homma, a Tokyo-based re- that we only sell pearls, and our diamond ’’ case, looked beautiful when someone search analyst with Euromonitor or gemstone things are just done ad hoc,” wears them and moves around,” he said, International, said moves such as hir- said Tasaki president and chief execu- adding that Panichgul designed some of ing Panichgul have led Tasaki to a wider tive officer Toshikazu Tajima. Tasaki’s best-selling products. Those piec- consumer base. “Some people see it as [a pearl es include items such as rings or necklac- “Before the new brand strategy was brand like] Mikimoto,” Tajima said, es with three or more pearls mounted on implemented, Tasaki’s main consumers referencing Tasaki’s older, and argu- a gold bar, or items with a conical-shaped were those over 50. The more contempo- ably better-known, rival. “But Tasaki is diamond affixed to each pearl. rary designed jewelry selections did not

the only De Beers Group sightholder in MIYAZAKI Tajima said the company hopes to only attract these existing consumers, but Japan, and the quality of our diamonds continue working with Panichgul for a also potential younger consumers with

is extremely high.” YUKIE long time. their more modern designs,” she said. Tajima said the jeweler is looking to BY “Because Tasaki is a Japanese brand Between its retail and wholesale expand its international distribution and — and this is another reason for choosing business, Tasaki products are carried PHOTO is scouting a location for its first free- Thakoon as creative director — I think at 78 stores in Japan, 31 in Mainland standing store in Paris. He also hinted we need to have a kind of Oriental deli- China, eight in Taiwan and six in South that Tasaki would likely be announc- In order to maintain cacy in our design, product selection and Korea. They can also be found at se- ing another “big, surprising collabora- shop design. If we don’t do that then we’ll lect high-end retailers in the U.S. and tion” by the end of the year and said the be just like Western brands,” he said. Europe. Earlier this year, the company Japanese company hopes to continue our current position in Tajima’s efforts to change Tasaki’s established a subsidiary in France as its relationship with creative director image and reposition it in the market ap- the first step in a broader international Thakoon Panichgul, now in his second the market, we need to pear to have paid off. Its retail business expansion in the West. three-year contract with the brand. in Japan alone grew 31 percent year- Tajima said the company is look- “In order to maintain our current po- be constantly releasing over-year in the first quarter ended Jan. ing for a suitable location to open its sition in the market, we need to be con- 31. While Tajima said Japan’s sales-tax first Paris store, but in the meantime, stantly releasing new products, and prod- hike in April bit into Tasaki’s sales, the it has opened a shop-in-shop at Le Bon uct design is, of course, a very important new products. company still expects Japan retail sales Marché. While he is not focused on dras- part of that,” Tajima said. “For that rea- in the second quarter ended April 30 to tically increasing the brand’s number of son, we’re always looking at the work of — TOSHIKAZU TAJIMA, TASAKI grow 38 percent to 4.01 billion yen, or overseas outlets, he said he envisions various creators, and I think we’ll try col- $39.14 million at current exchange. eventually having two major points of laborations with many different people.” Tajima, 61, is steeped in fashion cred- Between the fiscal years ended Oct. sale in Paris, two in London, two in New Tasaki has collaboration lines with de- ibility, having worked at a series of brands 31, 2011 and Oct. 31, 2013, Tasaki’s annual York, one in Los Angeles and possibly signers such as Melanie Georgacopoulos including , and Dior. Over the sales grew from 14.3 billion yen to 16.59 others in locations such as Chicago, and Marie-Hélène de Taillac. five years he has spent at’’ Tasaki, he has billion yen. At average exchange rates for Miami, Germany and Italy. WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 9 WWD.COM Dov Charney, Board Struggle Levi’s Among ‘Patriotic’ Brands percent evaluations. By ARNOLD J. KARR Because of ties in percentage For American Apparel Control rankings, 50 brands made the 25 THE DIGITALS ARE COMING. slots on the list. {Continued from page one} pany would cost nearly $17 million and the Levi’s, Ralph Lauren and Robert Passikoff, founder and fits the bill, with roughly $280 million in five-year loan to Charney bears interest of 10 Wrangler were among the apparel president of Brand Keys, noted debt, no permanent ceo and the raging fight percent annually, although that interest could brands retaining a place on Brand that the survey reflects perception for control. be paid in stock. The loan is backed up by the Keys’ ranking of the most “patriot- of the “emotional core” of brands More than 79 million American Apparel rest of the founder’s stake in the company. ic” brands as the nation approaches rather than countries of origin. shares traded hands over the last three By all accounts, American Apparel isn’t the 238th anniversary of its found- “You would have virtually no trading sessions as the stock shot up to 97 a business to its founder as much as it is a ing, but this year’s top 25 list includ- American names if patriotism was de- cents from 53 cents. What’s not clear is how cause and a passion. ed first-time appearances from the fined by the countries in which brands much of many of those shares were bought Charney is widely regarded as an am- worlds of computers, e-commerce are produced,” he told WWD. “The by Standard and whether the investor was bitious and savvy marketer who’s worked and search engines. truth is that consum- able to transfer them to Charney before a — and played — extremely hard while After failing to ers have come to un- special committee of the company’s board building the U.S. T-shirt maker into a dis- crack the ranks of PATRIOTIC BRANDS derstand that this is established the poison pill in the wee hours tinctive brand. the top 25 last year, Brands with the highest ratings a global economy.” Saturday morning. American Apparel’s sex-infused market- Apple, Amazon and for “patriotic” values, according While offshore The company said, “The rights plan is de- ing was crafted by Charney and is, at least Google all made the to Brand Keys’ annual survey. production didn’t signed to limit the ability of any person or in part, a reflection of his own lifestyle. The top 10, with Apple RANK weigh against ap- group, including Dov Charney, to seize control former ceo has been sued repeatedly for finishing in sixth parel brands, New 1 Jeep of the company without appropriately com- sexual harassment. place with a pa- ...... Balance’s “Made pensating all American Apparel stockholders.” In firing him, the board alleged that triotism rating of 90 2 Levi’s in America” sourc- The plan doesn’t kick in until someone Charney’s reputation made it difficult for the percent. Amazon ...... ing structure was acquires 15 percent of the company to borrow money, and Google weren’t 3 Coca-Cola among the factors company — or in the case that he bore some respon- far behind, ranked ...... helping it retain the of Charney who already sibility for blog posts de- at eighth (88 per- 4 Colgate, Disney number-nine posi- owns more than that, when faming a former employee cent) and 10th (86 ...... tion it held last year, he acquires an additional 1 47.2M and that he signed off on percent). Facebook Wrigley’s, Zippo Passikoff noted. percent of the firm. significant severance pack- made its first appear- ...... Among brick- The poison pill affixes a AMERICAN APPAREL SHARES ages for former employees ance in 16th place 5 Ralph Lauren, Ford and-mortar re- ...... right to each share to buy to shield himself from per- with a 79 percent tailers, Wal-Mart OWNED BY DOV CHARNEY. Harley-Davidson one-ten-thousandth of a sonal liability. rating and eBay its ...... finished highest share of preferred stock for Charney is contesting inaugural showing at 6 Apple, Gillette (seventh place with $2.75, making it prohibitively expensive to his termination in arbitration and is said to 22nd place with a 73 ...... 89 percent, up from stage a hostile takeover. be seeking $23 million to $25 million for un- percent grade. 7 Wal-Mart, Hershey’s 15th place at 81 American Apparel’s statement detailing fair dismissal. Brand Keys asked ...... percent last year), the plan dove into the legal nitty-gritty of the The affair has pushed the founder into the 4,680 Americans 8 Amazon followed by L.L. situation — a signal that sooner or later a role of activist shareholder. aged 16 to 65 to ...... Bean (15th place judge might have to wade in to sort it all out. He is now on the outside looking in and evaluate brands on 9 New Balance at 80 percent ver- The company said Charney would not has said in regulatory filings that he might a series of charac- ...... sus 14th place at 82 “beneficially own” stock held by Standard “consider, formulate, discuss and seek to teristics. In evalu- 1100 Google, AT&T percent) and Sears ...... simply because the two have a “letter agree- cause [American Apparel] to implement vari- ating the patriotic (23rd place at 72 ment.” However, the firm said Charney would ous plans or proposals intended to enhance standing of brands, percent versus 16th trigger the stockholder rights plan if he ex- the value of his current or future invest- respondents were advised to use the place at 80 percent). ecuted the deal with Standard. ment…enhance stockholder value or enhance five branches of the U.S. armed forc- Passikoff was impressed but If the unusual stock power play does go the value of the [company’s] assets, including es as the ideal of 100 percent. not surprised by the strong first- through, it won’t come cheap. plans or proposals that may involve extraor- Jeep, first produced during and time rankings of the brands associ- At current prices, 10 percent of the com- dinary matters.” specifically for World War II, again ated with computers, smartphones claimed the top spot in the survey and e-commerce. Apple, Amazon, with a rating of 98 percent, followed Google, Facebook and eBay all ap- by Levi Strauss & Co.’s Levi’s brand, peared on last year’s survey, but second at 97 percent, up from third none cracked the top 25. Woolmark Names Europe Judges last year when it rated 95 percent. “From desktops to laptops Next among fashion and retail and now extending to tablets and Rabaneda, Nihan Peker and 1205. brands was Ralph Lauren, which mobile devices, there’s been a By LAURE GUILBAULT In men’s wear, the finalists are Cédric moved to fifth from seventh place a major shift in access and usage,” Jacquemyn, Pavel Ivancic, Asger Juel Larsen, year ago with the same 91 percent Passikoff said. “These devices and PARIS — Nina Ricci’s creative director Melinda Gloss, Vladimir Karaleev, Camo, mark. Wrangler and the New York Web sites are becoming part and Peter Copping and Véronique Nichanian, Hyun Yeu, Etxeberria, Serdar Uzuntas and Yankees tied for 18th place with 77 parcel of the economy.” the artistic director of Hermès men’s Agi & Sam. universe, are among judges for the The 2014-15 competition marks the first International Woolmark Prize’s Europe time there will be one overall winner for INNERWEAR regional awards, to be held July 8 at the women’s wear and one for men’s wear. Last Shangri-La Hotel here. year’s Europe regional winner was British Besides Copping, the other women’s wear knitwear brand Sibling. Ivana Nonnis Tapped at Lejaby judges are Anita Barr, group fashion buying Five regional competitions will be held in director at Harvey Nichols, and Emmanuelle the U.S., Asia, Australia, Europe and India PARIS — French compa- tract as their manager for North Alt, editor in chief of Vogue Paris. and the Middle East to select 10 women’s and ny Maison Lejaby has nominated America from 2009 until 2013. Sarah Andelman cofounder, buyer and men’s finalists who will each receive 50,000 Ivana Nonnis, a former chief ex- Nonnis will be responsible for creative director of Colette in Paris; Tim Australian dollars, or $46,251 at current ex- ecutive officer of La Perla North developing Maison Lejaby’s dis- Blanks, editor at large of Style.com, and change, toward their next collection, as well America, to the newly created po- tribution network in the country. James Sleaford, fashion editor in chief at GQ as an invitation to participate in the interna- sition of U.S. manager, effective “We could consider expanding France, join Nichanian on the men’s jury. tional final. this month. with department In women’s wear, the finalists are Jean- The five men’s wear finalists are to con- The house that Ivana stores and via Paul Lespagnard, Zdenka Imreczeová, Anne vene at London Collections: Men in January, has been work- Nonnis franchises down Sofie Madsen, Étienne Deroeux, Augustin and the five women’s wear finalists in ing with agents the road,” Prost Teboul, Arthur Arbesser, Elsien Gringhuis Beijing in March. in the country so said. The house’s far will now have main line and its a Brooklyn-based Elixir line for big- subsidiary in- ger cup sizes are Cavalli Continues Investor Search stead. “The U.S. currently avail- market represents able in about 100 MILAN — The road to a sale of the Roberto Permira, which have not yet led to a deal. a big potential multibrand stores Cavalli company might be longer and more Sources said the discussions have hit a num- for us,” Maison in the country, winding than the designer anticipated, but ber of stumbling blocks — mainly the valua- Lejaby ceo Alain while its luxury sources in Milan say the brand is still looking tion of the fashion house. Prost told WWD. label, Maison for an investor and that discussions are ongo- The price tag also was an issue in August “We want some- Lejaby Couture, is ing — although the list of suitors is narrowing. 2009, when Cavalli suddenly abandoned plans one who dedicates sold exclusively at After Permira, Bahrain-based Investcorp to sell a 30 percent stake in his business to her energy, activi- Barneys New York. has also taken a step back, in disaccord over Italian private equity firm Clessidra SGR SpA ties and talent to The U.S. mar- the price tag, according to media reports. after lengthy discussions. Maison Lejaby.” ket could repre- Contacted on Friday, the Cavalli company Earlier this month, Bloomberg speculated Nonnis was ceo sent about 10 per- had no comment. that a group of investors led by Swiss - of La Perla North America from cent of the house’s business in As reported, Investcorp, a former Gucci maker Franck Muller had been eyeing the 2006 to 2008. After La Perla, she the next five years, Prost said. owner, as well as Qatar Holding had been Italian firm, but the deal has not yet unfolded. opened her own showroom where The company generates a total rumored to be looking at Cavalli, follow- In terms of assessment, Permira is said she represented several brands, turnover of about 30 million ing speculation of a slowdown or perhaps a to have valued Cavalli at about 450 million including the Dutch lingerie brand euros, or about $40.9 million at halt of negotiations with private equity fund euros, or $612.1 million. — LUISA ZARGANI Marlies Dekkers. She had a con- current exchange. — L.G. 10 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014

Andrew Waraire Wiggins in Boswell his hotel with room. Wiggins.

3:28 p.m. 3:29 p.m. 3:31 p.m. 3:34 p.m.

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Brandon Williams with 3:36 p.m. Wiggins. 3:37 p.m. 3:51 p.m. 4:11 p.m.

Wiggins at the Barclays Center.

He Got Game IANNACCONE ON THURSDAY night, Andrew Wiggins number-one draft pick in 2009. After walked out of the Barclays Center in that, Bosh, Stoudemire and James THOMAS

New York the NBA’s number-one draft became clients. For Wiggins, he custom- BY pick. Though he was strongly favored created a look that includes a white rose to be picked first by the Cleveland embroidered blazer with a black satin OTHERS Cavaliers, the day was emotionally lapel. fraught for the 19-year-old. “Today, our goal is to make everyone ALL Earlier that afternoon, Wiggins remember that Mr. Wiggins isn’t just a was in his room at the Westin New basketball player, he’s the NBA’s next IMAGES; York Times Square getting pumped fashion icon,” he said. to a Drake song that seemed to all but In his hotel room, Wiggins stood in

assure the turn of events later nothing but a bath towel. First STOBE/GETTY that evening: “Draft day, A. up were the pants, in black wool. Wiggins/f--k that other side b---h Then, his suede loafers from MIKE we stay winnin,’” the song went. eye Mezlan. Boswell then helped BY For the big day, the Canadian- Wiggins button up his custom PHOTO born Wiggins enlisted the help white shirt while Williams of stylist Brandon Williams and assisted with a tuxedo jacket. L.A.-based tailor Waraire Boswell, who “I wanted to set him apart from CENTER has created custom suits for the likes of the past and other drafts,” Boswell 7:40 p.m.

LeBron James, Chris Bosh and Amar’e said. “Generally, on draft day, all of BARCLAYS Stoudemire. The two of them worked for these guys will have these suits from a weeks on Wiggins’ look. handful of suit clothiers or have their does when he’s playing, but then, he and took the stage wearing the “Number one or number two, what local tailors do that for them — we cracked, if just for a second, and smiled. Cavaliers’ wine-colored . we do know is he’ll be the best dressed,” wanted him to look like he’s already “You feel good?” Boswell asked. “It feels great and a dream come Boswell promised the young athlete. been there, done that.” Wiggins replied with a big grin. “I was true,” he told WWD after he had walked “Let’s take him to the level of the LeBrons To complete the look, Williams chose told to always dress like you’re going off-stage. “It is a moment me and my and the Boshes of the world,” Williams a custom and gold floral brooch somewhere better,” he said. family have been waiting for, so I am added. “When skeptics say he’s not NBA- from Square Clothing in L.A., At 7:30 p.m., Wiggins was in his seat very excited. My emotions were what I ready, well, he’s going to look like it.” an Audemars Piguet watch with custom at Barclays. Mobs of fans shouted his expected, but I had no real expectation Wiggins stands 6-foot-8, an advantage diamonds by Jason of Beverly Hills, name from the bleachers. The cameras of how the day would go. I tried not to on the court, but a challenge in the and black glasses from Boswell’s recent were zoomed in on him. The pressure put too many outcomes in my mind, wardrobe department. But Boswell, a collaboration with Garrett Leight. seemed to be mounting, but he looked just take it all in as it happened.” His former William Morris talent agent, is “It’s all about the fine details,” he said. stoic: posture straight, eyes focused, mother, who had stood beside him the used to it. Himself 6-foot-8, he began his After carefully placing both diamond diamonds glistening. entire time, was beaming. career 13 years ago precisely to address studs in his ears, Wiggins caught a When his name was finally called, he “I can’t wait to get my first check to the lack of sartorial options for men glimpse of himself in the mirror for was caught off guard, then finally, elated. treat out my dad, mom, siblings and his size, and out of the gate landed his the first time. Wiggins seems to keep as He hugged his mother, Marita friends,” the new Cavalier said. first client, Blake Griffin, who was the much of a poker face in real life as he Wiggins, the former Olympic sprinter, — DAVID YI WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 11 WWD.COM

win, Kapranos jokingly replied: , a sweat suit “Scotland — the eternal optimist. and a poplin shirt and FASHION SCOOPS But also of course my family roots shots. The mash-ups lie in Greece as well, and they’re between fabrics and prints through to this round, so there’s a created an overall effect chance that they could still win.” that was again quirky and STYLE POINTS: Some of the edgiest BRINGING THEIR ‘A’ GAME: The screams In addition to the heavy inventive yet wearable. designers in men’s wear gathered at the of excited fans greeted the arrival of contingent of teens, the show — MARCY MEDINA Hôtel Particulier in the Montmartre a guest outside the venue of the Dior drew regulars including Kering district of Paris on Saturday night to Homme show in Paris on Saturday. Was chairman and ceo François-Henri MARZOTTO TRIAL DEFERRED: fete the collaboration between Russell it Ansel Elgort, the rising star of films Pinault — without his wife Salma Matteo Marzotto’s tax trial Westbrook and Barneys New York. like “Divergent” and “The Fault in Our Hayek — as well as Yves Saint was deferred to Nov. 28 by Marcelo Burlon, Maxwell Osborne and Dao- Stars”? Or perhaps Scott Mescudi, aka Laurent’s former business partner, judge Lucio Nardi at Milan’s Yi Chow of Public School, Brandon Svarc Kid Cudi? The celebrity turned out to be Pierre Bergé, and muse Betty Catroux. courthouse on Friday and Bahzad Trinos of Naked & Famous Taiwanese actor and singer Vic Chou, Jamie Bochert said she was during the first hearing. and Gemo Wong of Nike’s Brand Jordan looking dapper in a pin-striped Dior heading to London shortly to According to a legal were among those who joined Barneys suit with a sprig of lily of the valley shoot a video for her song “Sleep” source, Nardi is soon chief executive officer Mark Lee at the embroidered above the breast pocket. with director Marie Schuller from expected to move and crowded party. Speaking through an interpreter, the SHOWstudio, to be styled by preside at another The Westbrook XO Barneys New York member of boy band F4 said it was his Amanda Harlech. “I’m really excited courthouse in the Italian city line of sportswear and accessories, due first visit to Paris, but he was used to about that,” she confided. — J.D. of Pavia, so he postponed to hit the retailer’s stores in August, similar fan reactions the Marzotto trial until late includes apparel from Jordan, Marcelo on his travels. TAKING A TRIP: A spring look from in the year to avoid leaving Burlon County of Milan and Naked & As temperatures For spring 2015, Band of Outsiders. as it progressed. Famous, as well as accessories from rose inside the Band of Outsiders This is the second delay Want Les Essentiels, Selima Optique, Tennis Club in founder Scott Sternberg for the trial, which was first affected in Del Toro and Globe-Trotter. the west of Paris, was initially inspired March when a strike of Italian lawyers “We think he has unique style,” said he was joined in by his fall capsule prevented it from beginning. Lee. “He changes his clothes every day the front row by collaboration with The allegations involve the Marzotto and he never repeats, so he has to be guests including Scottish heritage brand family’s association with the sale of savvy about a lot of brands.” , Candice Mackintosh, but in Valentino Fashion Group to private equity Westbrook, wearing a Jordan anorak, Swanepoel, Isabeli usual Band of Outsiders fund Permira in May 2007 for more than T-shirt and sweatpants, took over the Fontana, Caroline de fashion, decided to 782 million euros, or $1 billion. Barneys New York dedicated men’s Maigret, Pierre Niney, FEUGÈRE take the story one step — LUISA ZARGANI Instagram channel @Barneysman on Haider Ackermann and further. “Thinking Saturday to document his trip to Paris, Dao Ming. about heritage got me KORS TAPS LAFAY FOR ASIA: Stéphane Lafay though prior to the evening’s events, Miguel Ángel Muñoz STÉPHANE imagining this as a 1964 will join as president of Ansel Elgort and BY his photos featured mainly rain, and was happy to talk Violetta Komyshan barbecue dad who took Asia, a new post. Lafay’s appointment is more rain. about his upcoming PHOTO mushrooms.” effective July 28, and he will report to “The weather’s been changing,” the film “What About The 26 looks John D. Idol, chairman and ceo Oklahoma City Thunder point guard Love,” in which he plays a daredevil embody the brand’s core FOR MORE of Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. said with a smile. Westbrook confirmed documentary filmmaker who goes on Americana preppy aesthetic SCOOPS, SEE “This is a pivotal moment he never wears the same outfit twice, an ill-fated European road trip with his plus trippy tongue-in-cheek for the brand as we continue adding that he donates his used clothing. American girlfriend. The film also stars details such as floating argyle WWD.com. to invest and work to build “I go to Goodwill, I go to friends, people Andy Garcia, Sharon Stone, Iain Glen and diamonds woven into a navy a strategic road map for in need, my brother, family — whoever Marielle Jaffe, and is set for release in 2015. cashmere sweater or a shirt the Asia region,” said Idol. needs it, I get it over to them and let The Spanish actor and singer, who placket made with patchwork plaids that “Stéphane has a long history of them use it,” he said. will also be seen in horror film “ABCs mimicked a tie. The classic rubberized building luxury businesses in Asia. The basketball player described the of Death 2,” said Hollywood has been coat was given a smattering of allover His skills and experience will be a ongoing collaboration with Barneys good to him. “They are really focused on grommets, a pop of red, a nylon dégradé tremendous asset for us going forward.” as “a dream come true” and said he Latin actors. Now I think is a really good gingham print and even an inside-out Most recently, Lafay was with Tiffany was looking forward to expanding it in opportunity for us to cross the border version. In a nod to his California home, & Co. for five years, where he was senior future seasons. “This is the start of a and go there for work,” he remarked. Sternberg also turned a reductive surf vice president , Asia-Pacific and Japan. Westbrook brand,” he said. Lambert Wilson, fresh off his stint as print into a sailboat motif used on a — LISA LOCKWOOD For Wong, design director of master of ceremonies at the Cannes energy products at Brand Jordan, the Film Festival, was gearing up for his collaboration has opened a lot of doors. last two performances in “The King “It’s new in fabric, fit and style, so and I” at the Théâtre du Châtelet, overall, it’s new. which has earned Price points are him rave reviews. Russell Westbrook new for us — it’s “I’ve done a lot of and Mark Lee a lot higher than musical comedies, as we traditionally a matter of fact. I was have gone. The trained in England,” For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. distribution, he said. “For me, it’s definitely — a perfectly normal we’ve never thing to sing and been in Barneys. dance, so I was very Spaces We’ve always excited to do this PATTERNS, SAMPLES, seen Barneys huge production that PRODUCTIONS as a pinnacle has never been put Full service shop to the trade. COMMERCIAL Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 retail expression on in France.” — J.D. Excellent Business Opportunity for us,” he said, REAL ESTATE Apparel Manufacturer, Importer, Distributor and Retailer adding that SAFETY IN NUMBERS: The Original Cult, Inc. is soliciting athletes were the FEUGÈRE Is the front row still overbids for bulk purchase of all assets new trendsetters. the front row if there remaining from operations of its business. Assets include all “Our consumer is someone sitting in machinery, inventory, computer more and more STÉPHANE front of you? equipment, furniture and intangible

BY 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes assets. A written offer of $450,000 has often is looking At the Saint been received from a prospective Menswear Showrooms purchaser. All overbids must be at athletes as the Laurent men’s show D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED PHOTO accompanied by a good-faith deposit of Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- new muse, as the in Paris on Sunday, no less than $25,000, which is subject on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ to forfeiture if bidder fails to close stores. If you sell to new style icons, especially now. You guests including Lenny Kravitz and Franz within seven days of confirmation as buyers, email: [email protected]. see individuals like Russell, like LeBron Ferdinand front man Alex Kapranos GARMENT DISTRICT/ the successful bidder. Minimum bid is SHOWROOMS/OFFICE SPACE $500,000. Bid deadline: July 7, 2014. Freelance shoe specialist for shoe [James], who are setting themselves found themselves peering over the 250 to 3000 sf+ NO FEE For more information contact market wanted for Italian designer apart, being more individuals and heads of young guests who camped on Fashion Industry Specialist Michael Joncich, 818 972-5315, brand. High end market knowledge. Call: Richard Nissan- Living R.E. Credit Management Association, Setting up appointments and working being different. So I think that this is the floor on the edge of the runway. Group 646-750-8056 40 East Verdugo Ave., Burbank, CA accounts. July to mid August. Flexible email: [email protected] 91502. hours. Please send resume to: rlibani@ just the start of a new beginning,” Wong “How to get everybody in — eljmconsulting.com predicted. there’s a lot of very keen people,” Jewelry + Accessory Rep Needed Svarc said Naked & Famous also Kapranos mused good-naturedly. with customer connections. Flexible arrangements + explored new territory with the Franz Ferdinand had played the good commissions. collaboration. The brand normally uses Solidays festival on the outskirts of NYC. Email: [email protected] raw denim but introduced a rinse wash Paris the night before, and the singer Nationally recognized company has immediate openings for Sales for the line. was looking forward to headlining Representatives. Numerous territories throughout the US. Base salary + “I’m the most excited about the Fuji Rock in Japan on July 25. commission and benefits package. denim jacket that we’re doing, which is “It’s an incredible setting. Please apply to: [email protected] going to be like a color-blocked denim Japanese audiences are amazing EOE/M/F/V/D jacket with a ribbed collar in a gray and, you know, it’s just a really well- Japanese stretch denim,” said Svarc. curated festival. There’s always a “Maybe he has some hard-core fans that great lineup and a good vibe,” he said. are going to buy it just for his name. I In the meantime, Kapranos will be (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] don’t know. I guess we’ll wait and see.” following the World Cup during his — JOELLE DIDERICH travels. Asked who he is backing to 12 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 30, 2014 WWD.COM Forever 21 Sets Ambitious Growth Plan {Continued from page one} doors in the U.S. and another

“We are able to buy a deep 131 in international markets, in- volume of product, increasing cluding Canada, China, Europe, our economies of scale while Hong Kong, India, Israel, Japan, cutting our margins, so that we Korea, Latin America, the can pass the savings on to our Philippines and the U.K. customers,” Chang said. “Consumers are more in-

The company’s seemingly formed and choosing more care- razor-thin margins have led fully than ever before. To sur- many to speculate about how vive in this business, you must its styles are produced. The re- constantly evolve,” Chang said. tailer, which does not own any “We listen to our customers and of its own factories, has come implement change immediately under fire in the past for work- ’’ to better serve them.” ing conditions at the plants The ceo said F21 Red is a re- that make its goods. Most re- sponse to customer demand. cently, it has been criticized for “We noticed that many of not signing the union-driven our customers were asking for Bangladesh Accord on Fire a wider selection of our basics and Building Safety, one of SARDELLA and staple items, and felt that two retail agreements enacted the time was right to offer deep-

after more than 1,100 work- DONATO er inventory of options,” he said. ers died in the collapse of the Analysts have questioned how Forever 21 would make its margins with BY The concept speaks volumes Rana Plaza Factory building in prices as low as $7.80 for denim and $1.80 for tank tops (below). about the current health of the

Bangladesh last year. PHOTOS sector, according to Van Sinderen. More than 160 companies, “We’re in an environment mainly from Europe, have that’s very challenging to appar- signed on to the accord, which, We are able to buy a deep volume el and certainly for junior and among other things, requires contemporary,” Van Sinderen safety inspections at the coun- said. “Frankly, there is a con- try’s garment factories. Many of product, increasing our sumer that is getting squeezed other major U.S. retailers, in- right now by a higher cost of liv- cluding Gap Inc., Macy’s Inc. economies of scale while cutting ing, a higher cost of food…and and Target Corp., have alterna- arguably, a higher cost of health tively joined the Alliance for our margins, so that we can pass care. They need merchandise Bangladesh Worker Safety. that’s accessible, especially Forever 21 has opted to when it comes to basics.” address the issue through its the savings on to our customers. Indeed, it’s been a challeng- own policies. — DON CHANG, FOREVER 21 ing time for juniors retailers, “Since 2007, Forever 21 has which have struggled with dwin- developed a vendor agreement, dling sales due to online retail- requiring that manufactur- ing behemoths and brands that ing facilities with which we do employ aggressive omnichannel business adhere to the highest marketing strategies, including level of safety and human rights targeting consumers through standards,” Chang said when online and mobile efforts. asked why Forever 21 has not “I don’t think that the health signed the Accord. “We have a of the [junior apparel busi- strict vetting process when we ness] is great,” said Pierce at first start business with new Ascendiant Capital Markets. vendors, and this includes vis- ’’ “Even though April seems bet- its to, and review of, the facto- ter, I’m reluctant to extrapolate ries and the workforce.” April too far forward.” Forever 21 is something of Pierce and Van Sinderen said a lightning rod and has been there is a dearth of compelling sued repeatedly by competing merchandise and macro trends brands for alleged trademark driving sales in the junior and violations. And in January, the contemporary market. U.S. Department of Labor’s to safety hazards at its stores in with no covers. have to add a lot more stores, But despite the chilly market Occupational Safety and Health Paramus, N.J., and Manhattan, But the company has contin- and maybe they’re looking at conditions, Forever 21’s busi- Administration cited the com- including obstructed exit ued to grow. F21 Red for that. It’s feasible but ness continues to grow hotter. pany for exposing employees routes and fluorescent lights Chang is focused on keeping will require very aggressive ac- “Forever 21 is still the leader that expansion going and indi- tion and same-store sales to be in lower-price-point fast fash- steadily positive.” ion,” Van Sinderen said. “H&M Customers line up for the cated that more F21 Red stores FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE The privately held company has more of a European flavor F21 Red store opening. are likely coming down the pike and that the retailer “would be does not publicly release same- and what I would call ‘modern WWD.com/ releasing more information in store sales figures or financial basics,’ and Zara is operating at retail-news. the coming months.” data, but has clearly been taking a higher price point.” The new concept could market share and now has 469 With such a small group of prove vital to the retailer’s doors in the U.S. and another such retailers in the market, the expansion, said Jeff Van 131 internationally. sector seems potentially poised Sinderen, senior analyst at B. Chang launched the retailer for new players. But Chang is Riley & Co. in 1984 with a 900-square-foot determined to fill any gaps in the “Three years is an aggressive space on Figueroa Street in sector before someone else does. expansion, especially with the downtown Los Angeles under “Where there is demand, environment we’re in today,” the name Fashion 21. That first there is room for more players,” Van Sinderen said. “I don’t think store logged sales of $700,000 Chang said. “We focus on iden- they get there with comping [in- by year’s end and led to more tifying the room in the market- creasing sales at stores open doors. Renamed Forever 21, place and, when plausible, fill- a year or more] only. They’ll the company now operates 469 ing it, as quickly as possible.”

“It seemed like a great idea to me, final cut and were photographed by MEMO PAD as casting through Instagram seemed David Sims in early May. cool, current and strong,” Jacobs said. “David Sims portraits, Peter Miles “We wanted the ads to shout with youth layouts, the credibility of the cast REAL TIME: Marc by Marc Jacobs’ and energy…to be fresh and reclaim and the approach to casting the ads fall campaign — the first since the spirit that the collection had when transmit a current social lifestyle Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley came we first conceived of it — to be another that doesn’t play into other clichés.… on board — is making a strong collection, not a second line.” And totally feels like our company statement with a cast of real people There were 70,000 entries, and — a cast of colorful and dynamic and a social media twist. working with casting director Anita characters,” Jacobs said. Marc Jacobs and stylist Katie Grand Bitton, the company whittled them The campaign will break in the opted to use Instagram for models, down to 50, who were then directly August issue of Teen Vogue. It will and so, for a week in April, they messaged. Some 30 finalists from be supported by behind-the-scenes asked those interested to submit around the world, including South videos of the casting and shoot on photos of themselves by including the Korea, Russia and Australia, were marcjacobs.com. hashtag #CastMeMarc. flown to New York; nine made the — MARC KARIMZADEH A Marc by Marc Jacobs ad photographed by David Sims.