SCHIAPARELLI’S NEW HOME ATELIER VERSACE PAGE 10 DONATELLA VERSACE KICKED OFF PARIS COUTURE WITH A STAR-STUDDED SHOW AND INTIMATE DINNER AT THE RITZ. PAGES 8 AND 10

FALL OFFERING SEEN Coty’s $700M Gamble: Will IPO Be a Beauty?

By EVAN CLARK

COTY INC. IS READY for the bright lights of Wall WWD Street — the question is whether the fragrance com- pany will be able to convince investors that it can keep growing in developing markets. MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY After failing in its bid to buy Avon Products Inc. and get a leg up in Brazil, Coty on Friday filed for an initial public offering that could raise $700 million for current shareholders. The offering would be the first major beauty IPO since the Nineties and a sign of just how far the 108-year-old firm has come over the last decade, when annual revenues tripled to about $4.5 billion, accord- ing to the filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission. But the IPO comes at a time of instabil- ity in the European economy, growing uncertainty Eyes over the strength of the U.S. recovery, a slowdown in growth in China and Brazil and a few lackluster IPOs in recent months, including Facebook. The key will be whether the beauty firm can con- vince Wall Street that it is a company well positioned for further growth or one that, having failed in its bid for Avon, is simply falling back on the IPO as a conve- Wide nient plan B. Coty’s growth has been fueled by both a series of ac- quisitions and by its pioneering moves in the celebrity fragrance category via deals with the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Madonna, Beyoncé Knowles, Halle Berry and Heidi Klum. The deals are a win-win for both sides: Shut they have delivered a steady revenue stream for Coty while giving the stars a major source of cash. Coty has promised to pay licensing royalties of $300.5 million in PARIS — An SEE PAGE 12 athletic pulse reverberated Couture’s Booming Markets through the men’s shows in Paris, By MILES SOCHA which wound PARIS — In global economic terms, it’s among the down in the French worst of times. In the cosseted, hand-wrought world capital on Sunday. of high fashion, it’s practically the best of times. “Our best year ever in couture,” said Bruno At Givenchy, Riccardo Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel, citing re- Tisci applied prints of cord couture sales in revenues and units, and hail- female religious icons ing Karl Lagerfeld’s spring collection — based on the color blue and paraded through a jetliner set — as to sporty shapes and well suited to its global clientele. added sharp, muscular On Tuesday, Lagerfeld will parade his “new vin- tage” collection for Chanel in the newly renovated tailoring, too. Here, Salon d’Honneur at the Grand Palais. one of his painterly “The superrich are still superrich,” added Ralph apparitions, ING 2 Toledano, president of Puig’s fashion division, which R 01 includes Jean Paul Gaultier, which saw revenues jump splashed over a P 3 23 percent for his Amy Winehouse-inspired spring glossy bomber S couture collection, on top of a 28 percent gain in 2011. jacket and Gaultier’s couture operates profitably, Toledano noted. MEN’S COLLECTIONS Despite the euro-zone debt crisis and signs of a T-shirt. For slowdown in China and elsewhere, executives agreed more on the the prospects remain sunny for 2012, with an influx of men’s shows, PARIS new couture clients from Asia — and on the horizon, South America — offering a promising growth avenue see pages 4 to 6. for the future. And designers are increasingly taking their shows on the road to tap into the new clientele: Gaultier, for example, is slated to parade couture in Cali, Colombia, in October. The couture shows kicked off Sunday night with Donatella Versace returning to the runway after an eight-year absence, and could hit an early crescendo today when Belgian designer Raf Simons makes his debut as Christian Dior’s sixth couturier. “We have a lot of demand for the first show of Raf,” said Dior chief executive officer Sidney Toledano, who was upbeat about the company’s couture prospects, buoyed by a “big increase” in sales for the spring col- lection designed under the creative leadership of Bill Gaytten, now fully devoted to the John Galliano brand. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 WWD.COM

Unger to Exit Kay Unger New York the Briefing Box while we are sad to see her de- By Lisa LoCKWooD Kay Unger part, we are confident in our fu- in Today’s WWd ture success thanks in part to the neW yorK — Kay Unger, co- great example she has set,” said founder and creative director of feinberg. he said the firm, which Kay Unger new york and Phoebe manufactures mostly dresses, is Couture, is leaving the company positioned for the future with a to focus on philanthropy and team of designers who will con- other creative endeavors. tinue to carry the Kay Unger and “i’ve been toying with it for Phoebe Couture brands forward. quite a while,” said Unger, 67, “Kay and i have worked to- who told the staff friday. she gether for 32 years. i’ve outlasted said her primary focus will be two husbands. this was her de- the steven Julius foundation, are carried in specialty and de- cision,” said feinberg, who said which she started with her two partment stores throughout the they’ve been talking about this grown sons in 2010. the founda- U.s., such as neiman Marcus, for the past nine months. “Kay hane Feugere tion is primarily committed to saks fifth avenue, nordstrom, wouldn’t have left if we weren’t P cancer research and care and to Bloomingdale’s and Lord & [well] positioned. her name is Amar’e Stoudemire at the Ste funding scholarships for inner- taylor, and in 20 international very important to her.” Kay Unger Givenchy men’s show. city children in the visual arts markets. in 2007, freestanding new york will own the rights to through Parsons the new school Kay Unger and Phoebe Couture Unger’s name. she will no longer Photo by for Design. “i have several mil- boutiques were opened through- own the company, which is major- lion dollars in there, and i’m so out China and seoul. ity owned by feinberg, with some Luxury executives foresee a sunny 2012, with an influx passionate about it,” said Unger. “after founding three compa- private investors. of new couture clients from Asia offering a promising Unger co-founded Kay Unger nies, interacting with thousands Prior to forming Kay Unger growth avenue for the future. PAGE 1 new york in 1995 with rob of loyal customers and design- new york, Unger was the cre- feinberg, chief executive of- ing clothes that make women ative head and co-founder of the Coty Inc. on Friday filed for an initial public offering that ficer. the privately held firm look and feel their best, it is time gillian group, which included could raise $700 million for current shareholders and would will continue under feinberg. for me to focus on my other pas- the st. gillian and a.J. Bari lines. be the first major beauty IPO since the Nineties. PAGE 1 the company launched Phoebe sions,” said Unger, who also plans Before that, she had her own Couture as a younger, spirited to travel, work on her sculpture, namesake line using Liberty of Kay Unger, cofounder and creative director of Kay Unger brand in 2007. Both labels, which and continue collecting art. London prints. she started her New York and Phoebe Couture, is leaving the company to generate more than $30 mil- “Kay’s creative spirit has been career at geoffrey Beene after focus on philanthropy and other creative endeavors. PAGE 2 lion in wholesale sales volume, at the heart of our brands, and graduating from Parsons. Australian department store chain David Jones Ltd. received an unsolicited $1.66 billion takeover offer from British private equity firm EB Private Equity. PAGE 2

David Jones Receives Takeover Offer The first collection of Jockey intimates endorsed by Rachel aUstraLian DePartMent friday, the retailer disclosed the $1.76 billion at current exchange, Zoe, a line intended to marry comfort with style, will be store chain David Jones Ltd. re- terms of the offer, raising ques- more than the amount stated in hitting stores this fall. PAGE 2 ceived an unsolicited $1.66 billion tions over what was really being the offer for a 100 percent ac- takeover offer from British private acquired and for how much. quisition of the retailer. further, Jessica Alba, Pierce Brosnan, Lea Michele and Christina equity firm eB Private equity. David Jones said the proposal the mention of residual shares Hendricks were among the star-studded guests at the Atelier While there’s some confusion was 1.65 billion australian dol- raised the question that the offer Versace couture show at the Ritz Paris. PAGE 9 over what the private equity firm lars, or $1.66 billion at current might be just a partial bid. is actually offering to buy, the exis- exchange, for a 100 percent acqui- eB’s Web site says the Robin Givhan will be a contributor to a new blog called tence of an offer has fueled specu- sition of the retailer. the terms in Luxembourg and newcastle, FashionBeast, which will launch July 25. PAGE 9 lation that the attention on David australian dollars are “850 mil- U.K.-based firm has expertise in Jones might spur others to contem- lion of equity provided by the [eB real estate investments but didn’t Richard Beckman has been pushed out of Prometheus plate making offers of their own. consortium], 450 million of lending list recent deals or any of the Global Media after two-and-a-half years as chief robert savage, the chairman provided by a syndicate of banks firm’s principals. executive officer, several sources said Friday. PAGE 9 of David Jones, on friday dis- and investment institutions and 450 further complicating the situa- closed to the australian securities million residual equity for the ex- tion, there was speculation in the Schiaparelli opened its new couture salons in Paris and exchange that the firm received isting David Jones Ltd. sharehold- australian press over the week- celebrated with a cocktail party on Sunday. PAGE 10 the offer from a non-incorporated ers, a portion of this residual equity end that the offer could be a hoax. U.K. entity, of which the usual shall be underwritten.” the com- David Jones owns attractive real Balenciaga’s first men’s wear ad campaign, showcasing public information was unavail- pany said eB did not provide fur- estate locations, particularly the the fall collection, is to be unveiled on Tuesday on able. he added that the company’s ther details of its financial capacity, sydney and Melbourne flagships. balenciaga.com. PAGE 11 directors didn’t have any “relevant identify management or provide shares of David Jones on information to enable them to terms of the residual equity. friday jumped 14.6 percent to Rumor has it that Donatella Verace is plotting a new qualify or value the approach.” the amounts add up to 1.75 close at $2.61. men’s fragrance called Eros for fall. PAGE 11 in a subsequent update billion in australian dollars, or — Vicki M. Young Raf Simons’ first fashion show for Dior will be live- streamed on elle.fr and diormag.com today at 2:30 p.m. Jockey to Launch Intimates Endorsed by Zoe Paris time (or 8:30 a.m. Eastern Standard Time). PAGE 11 a Webisode series this fall for a so- younger, more fashion-conscious on WWD.CoM By Karyn Monget cial-media campaign that will also consumer,” said Cohn. appear on jockey.com. a media the shapewear, which is de- AROUND THE WORLD: Amar’e Stoudemire, Professor Green the first collection of Jockey event that will feature Zoe and ce- scribed as “cotton-rich comfort and DJ Honey Dijon sat front row at Givenchy’s men’s wear intimates endorsed by rachel Zoe lebrities is being planned in Los meets all-day curve control,” will show in Paris. For more photos, see WWD.com/fashion-news. will be hitting stores this fall. feature a unique patented three- Zoe entered into a partnership panel design. styles will include earlier this year to promote a cu- tanks, shorts, slips and briefs To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is rated collection of “must have” rendered in cotton-spandex. [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. underwear and shapewear by there will also be two lines of COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Jockey. all hangtags will feature a fashion-forward intimates, which VOLUME 204, NO. 1. MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, “Preferred by rachel Zoe” tagline. will include bikinis, thongs, hip- March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine the exclusive collection will sters, boy-shorts and tanks. the Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, be launched at Jockey stores and bottoms will offer a “cheeky” cut Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at jockey.com this month and will be and modern silhouettes in solid New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses rolled out in october to major re- colors and graphic prints. Colors to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S tailers, including Macy’s, Lord & will include black, white, gray, WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, taylor, Kohl’s and Bon-ton stores. vanilla, light beige, dark cherry call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent “style starts from within, and and deep blue. fabrications will label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless having the right foundation is criti- Rachel Zoe with include microfiber Modal and we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine caption becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on cal to the ultimate success of your a model wearing blends of nylon and spandex. all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all A marketing image of Rachel Zoe outfit. i love marrying comfort exclusive Jockey featuring a patented three-pan- editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. with a model wearing exclusive For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints with style, and this new collection intimates. el design, this new line includes of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Jockey intimates. by Jockey does just that,” said Zoe. tanks, shorts, slips and briefs that www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. A model wears a look endorsed by Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that the launch will be supported by angeles in october are fashionable, comfortable and we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at Rachel Zoe for Jockey. a national print and outdoor adver- Dustin Cohn, chief marketing slimming. the shapewear will re- P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE The “Preferred by Rachel Zoe” tising campaign in major markets officer at Jockey international, tail from $26 to $57, and tops will FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED hangtag. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER such as new york, Los angeles, said the brand chose Zoe because sell for $21 and $24. Undies will UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Chicago, Dallas and atlanta, as she is a “design and fashion icon.” be priced $10.50 each or three DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A well as point-of-sale materials and “Jockey wanted to address a pairs for $27. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w02a002a.indd 2 7/1/12 5:36 PM 07012012173727 REGISTER BY AUGUST 17TH FOR A SPECIAL RATE

LEADERSHIP 2012

APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT

OCT 29–30 NEW YORK CITY

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SPONSORED BY 4 WWD MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 NG 2 RI 01 P 3 S Dior Homme Givenchy MEN’S COLLECTIONS PARIS re Ge hane Feu eP t s

D an D char a hine P Giannoni, Del Giovanni by Photos

AtHLetic infLuences met witH Luxurious fAbrics on tHe runwAys of PAris, yieLDinG PoLisHeD sPortsweAr, feAtHer-LiGHt tAiLorinG Sports Illustrated AnD sLeek outerweAr.

Givenchy: Could Riccardo renounced his recent fixation fashion showmen like Tisci. sprouted two pleats at the front, waters, giving the stripes of his Tisci, who fanned a craze for with skirts for men. Instead, small flap pockets around back. sweaters a 3-D rope texture. snarling Rottweiler motifs, bi-level tunics flapped under Dior Homme: Kris Van Assche is Internal drawstrings gently make religious iconography suit jackets, delivering that on a roll at Dior Homme. The cinched the waists of tubular Lanvin: With Siouxsie and the just as trendy? The designer is same Tisci edge. Inspired by military theme he marched coats — an example of how Banshees on the soundtrack, sure to win some new converts the Bauhaus movement, the out last fall tilted naval for Van Assche slyly integrated a post-punk chill permeated with this exhilarating show tailoring was bold and linear, spring, and everything was athletic influences into formal this show, staged on a raised — a feverish parade of sharp with triangles of fabric inset shipshape chic: purposeful silhouettes. Technical mesh runway of industrial-strength tailoring, powdery colors and into lapels and shirt collars. and immaculate in a range of was another. It crept over the metal. The collection riffed on ghostly prints embedded in Daring, too, were feminine handsome blues. sleeves and backs of blazers and myriad musical genres, and was brocades. fabrics, including duchesse Backstage, Van Assche trenchcoats. The outerwear was more masculine and cleaned up The church incense and satin and organza, though Tisci said a navy blazer was the terrific: luxurious, minimalist than recent Lanvin outings. organ music that preceded treated them like sweatshirt starting point, and indeed versions of bomber and flight Black leather was one of the show set the mood for material, stamping his sporty they were the first looks out. jackets, and sleek leather the key ingredients, even used Tisci’s communion theme. jerseys with female religious Slightly shrunken, they were parkas and windbreakers for shirts and ties under suits. And while he continued his icons instead of player numbers. smartened further with crested topstitched in red. Flowing high-waist pants worn devotion to active shapes — Although sins in this show silver buttons. The tailoring While sailor style is a with oversize white shirts with sweatshirts, polos, T-shirts and included yet more ridiculous was young, taut and sprightly. cliché in men’s wear, Van rolled sleeves conjured Fred baseball jackets — the designer nose jewelry, hallelujah for The season’s tapered trousers Assche charted some fresh Astaire — shod here in beefy

w02a004(5,6)a.indd 1 7/1/12 5:51 PM 07012012175544 WWD MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 5 NG 2 WWD.COM RI 01 P 3 S Hermès: Designer Véronique lanvin Hermès John Paul Smith Nichanian gave haute Galliano materials off-duty airs for MEN’S COLLECTIONS spring, sending out a plethora of sporty silhouettes in unexpected fabrics. Think PARIS zippered parkas in chiffon calfskin; T-shirts in perforated leather, and sweaters inset with lambskin panels. At times, the blend of the hyper- luxurious and casual felt a little forced, as in a T-shirt in black crocodile skin. More appealing were the sophisticated, summery suits that wore their craftsmanship lightly, done in deep blue linen canvas or virtually sheer seersucker in pale shades. Along with a series of single- breasted, navy wool and mohair tuxedos, they hit a discreetly sumptuous note.

Paul Smith: Paul Smith promised ahead of his spring show that the collection would be “very much about optimism,” and the designer’s crisp, skinny Kenzo suits in upbeat color combos certainly fit that bill. Smith’s signature slim silhouettes had a Mod-ish feel this time — double-breasted suit jackets had strong shoulders and were paired with ankle-length pants in mismatches shades of dusky peach, mustard and teal. A more laid-back, rocker vibe came in cotton or leather biker and blouson jackets, one of which was done in a black and red print depicting splintered roses. The lineup offered a hip, modern spin on Smith’s very British tailoring, underlined by a finale of cool single-breasted suits in shades of fuchsia, tomato red or cornflower blue.

John Galliano: In this breezy collection, creative director Bill Gaytten put the spotlight For more, See on inventive tailoring — WWD.com/ and continued to steer the menswear-news. house out of the confines of its founder’s aesthetic. Referencing surrealist artists, Gaytten played with dense floral embroideries, and playful prints depicting oversize shells Berluti: The cult cobbler- or cloudy skies à la Magritte. turned-luxury lifestyle player They were worked onto easy took over the picturesque suits with roomy knee-length Palais Royal gardens to shorts, or coats that closed present its second men’s asymmetrically. Sometimes ready-to-wear collection. Gaytten was heavy-handed A series of transporting with the theme, as in a giant vignettes opened with a maze metallic lobster strapped to a of hedges, in which chestnut- bare-chested model. But aside colored fringed wing tips, from a few flights of fancy, the two-tone moccasins and boxy lineup succeeded in tapping a AtHletic influenceS leather bags were nestled. directional yet approachable met witH luxuriouS fABricS In the background, models vein. donned casual-chic looks, on tHe runwAyS of PAriS, including a languid suede Kenzo: Humberto Leon and yieldinG PoliSHed SPortSweAr, coat with a weave texture, and Carol Lim took their cues from feAtHer-liGHt tAilorinG a raw-denim belted driving the Jungle Jap boutique that jacket with leather accents. put Kenzo on the map in Paris And SleeK outerweAr. Models wearing the rest in the Seventies — along with of the collection inhabited the actual jungles of Southeast a rose garden, an artist’s Asia. To wit: Models journeyed sport sandals in lieu of tap studio and a retro film studio. through the vast Maison du shoes. There were great boxy Loaded with special hand Judo sporting microscopic T-shirts, classic jackets with treatments, standout looks yellow and black camouflage billowing backs, a Ska-style included a black blazer in a prints on silk shorts and black shirt with a neon front, linen-raffia blend; shirts in Berluti shirts, while a blurred leopard and glam suits in glimmering herringbone block prints, print was splashed on baggy silver. Silky, ultralight and tuxedos in copper and silk pants and done in panels Windbreakers in python and petrol blue raw silk, echoing by live models. “You know setting felt like an early on a mustard-colored anorak. sheer nylon were worn like the colors of the butterflies the dioramas at the New York summer night’s dream. As a calming contrast came shirts, tucked into slim, shiny pinned in boxes scattered Natural History Museum? It’s “This is a first. I’ve never tailored Bermuda shorts and pants or over tailored shorts. around one vignette. like that, with more precious had dinner in the Palais laid-back suits in shades Spring’s top trends for men — Guests including Diane creatures to look at.” Royal,” Kruger said, turning of grayish blue, khaki and lightness, transparency, silky Kruger, Dita Von Teese and At sundown, guests were to photographer Patrick stone. Witty touches — such fabrics and upscale technical Vahina Giocante marveled at ushered past a lawn dotted Demarchelier. “I mean, this as a roaring gold tiger sportswear — were in their the fairy-tale setting. “It’s so with lit rows of colored to me, on a scale of one to one embroidered onto a sweatshirt element here. And at a time fun,” squealed actress Marisa Berluti shoes to dine at thousand of ridiculousness of — underlined the sense of fun where men want to look unique Tomei, as she took in one of candlelit tables decorated beauty, this would be close to the designers have injected in the way they dress, this the fashion vignettes inhabited with wild plants. The magical a one thousand.” into the label. collection brimmed with ideas. {Continued on page 6}

w02a004(5,6)a.indd 2 7/1/12 6:01 PM 07012012180416 6 WWD MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 WWD.COM

{Continued from page 5} Comme Junya Kris Ann Demeulemeester: The season’s major themes des Watanabe Van Band of Outsiders: Creative — rich color, superlight tailoring and long Garçons Assche director Scott Sternberg summer coats — looked thoroughly at home in Homme took his inspiration for the this dreamy spring show. The designer never Plus Californian brand’s preppy left the bedroom, channeling gentleman’s spring collection from loungewear of yore. Worn with striped lounge counterculture movements pants, silky kimonolike robes spilled out from the Fifties to today. It from under soft smoking jackets, creating an all looked smart and fresh, effortless elegance. Silk foulard fabrics and with designs ranging from an colors, especially tonal looks in purple, added indigo twill jacket and work a romantic streak. In terms of luxury dressing shirts with sailboat motifs to for stay-at-home types, this collection was the camouflage rainwear. cat’s pajamas. Band Ami Comme des Garçons Homme Plus: Rei Kawakubo of sent an army of dressed-down punks stomping Outsiders out onto her spring runway in pajama suits paired with slouchy overcoats. The designer heightened the rebellious mood by splicing together unexpected fabrics and silhouettes, such as a gray pinstripe coat patched with strips of black snakeskin and studded leather. Her simple shirt-and-pant combos, meanwhile, came in fabrics that spanned a rocker’s wardrobe — red tartan, leopard print, camouflage and gold lamé. The overall effect was wistful and off-kilter, as Kawakubo displayed her knack for crafting collections that mingle modern design with nostalgia.

Junya Watanabe: Junya Watanabe left ING 2 behind outdoorsy inspirations R 01 P 3 and trumpeted a preppy, more S polished guise for spring via Ami: Alexandre Mattiussi a plethora of summery suits. MEN’S COLLECTIONS laid out a banquet table in a There was a tranquil feel to secret Paris garden, creating the collection, as fresh-faced a charming setting for his models filed out in suits and PARIS Ann handsome weekend-in-the- separates in cornflower blue, Demeulemeester country wardrobe. Bird prints khaki and pale gray. Pants were alighted on sweatshirts and cropped above the ankle or cut into cotton chinos, while tailoring trim Bermudas. Individual touches included was lightweight and in fabrics elbow patches and pocket trims in shirt fabrics. like jute, rustic. Earthy While charming enough, Watanabe’s simple colors, beefy fabrics and easy- message didn’t offer much variation, save for to-wear cuts underscored glimpses of his signature work wear. the collection’s effortless, masculine personality. Kris Van Assche: Kris Van Assche used the ultimate basic — the humble T-shirt — as the Loewe: A relaxed elegance main prop for a collection that was all about defined every product deformalizing men’s wear staples. Suit jackets category, from oversize leather sported same-fabric T-shirt sleeves over their shopping totes and soft leather regular sleeves, while T-shirt bodies sprouted briefcases to unlined blazers. long, crisp shirtsleeves. Also marrying formal Sporty leathers included a and casual, raw denim jeans came with dress- croc baseball jacket and a pant pleats. Things looked a tad gimmicky at gold suede version of a waxed times. The simplest looks worked best, such fireman’s jacket. Pajama pants as a white T-shirt with a band of white shirt and shirts carried bold prints, fabric at the hem, paired with a tailored take The house’s new biker-inspired on athletic pants. leather capsule honored 13-time Spanish Grand Prix Maison Martin Margiela: A live band playing Maison winner Angel Nieto. instrumental versions of rock classics Martin Pierre accompanied to this sartorial ode to the Margiela Cardin Americana biker and concert roadies. The Loewe collection was aimed at the kind of guy who Thom Browne wears a T-shirt with faded retro graphics (wolves, huskies, racing flags) with his deconstructed gray suit to work. For after dark, he switches to fringed leather waistcoats and silver pants, or a coat entirely constructed from military badges. There was a sun-bleached aspect to some looks, as if just back from a long tour. Despite the show’s pretext, the collection didn’t quite live up to its rock ’n’ roll promise.

Pierre Cardin: There wasn’t much that Pierre Cardin left out of the collection he paraded on the steps of Paris’ Palais de la Bourse — except for bankable clothes for today. The exhaustive, madcap show opened with Alexander Wang the broad shouldered, Space Age tunics that Cardin first pioneered in the Sixties. FOR MORE, SEE From there on, the collection hurtled from WWD.com/ Alexander Wang: This graphic, conservative to full-on wacky. Ambling onto GIANNONI, DELPHINE ACHARD AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI minimalist collection — mostly the runway in groups and occasionally menswear-news. black and white — had just flashing Vulcan signs, models wore everything the right doses of cool and from broad-shouldered suits in Prince of PHOTOS BY utility. Wang mixed sportswear Wales check to latex bomber jackets sprouting and tailoring in witty, rubber tubes. Much of the collection looked like it was pulled awaited them. Holding up the Lycra tubes by the tip of their uncomplicated ways, using straight from the designer’s archive — including the finale of thumb, they hobbled to their designated position, where — after fabric blocking and layering hoop dresses for women. stepping into the metal shoes — they dropped their casings to to great effect. Standout looks reveal colorful suits and shirts in clashing pastel madras plaids. include suede and leather Thom Browne: There is a satisfying circularity — no pun intended Clamdiggers featured naïve lobster or whale motifs, which also baseball shirts; boxy shirts in — to a day that begins with hooped men’s jumpsuits at Pierre came embroidered in tiny colored pearls on sleeveless blazers water-resistant cotton, and Cardin and ends with models in hooped silver tubes at Thom in delicate shades. Coupled with the nautical rope buttons on tailored jackets in nylon poplin Browne. Known for his eccentric presentations, the U.S. some of the jackets, these conveyed a kooky East Coast prep with invisible zippered pockets designer did not disappoint, sending shoeless models dipped in vibe that would not look amiss in a Wes Anderson movie. Why that were a chic alternative to a silver paint into the garden of the Maison de la Chimie, where the presentation began with four performers on stilts looking Windbreaker. pedestals topped with sculptures of oversize silver brogues like silver centaurs remained a complete mystery. WWD MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 7 WWD.COM New Markets Drive Couture …and {Continued from page one} Armani Toledano declined to pinpoint the gain, but Privé. characterized it as in line with Dior’s general mo- Couture sketches from Chanel… mentum. First-quarter sales at the Dior fashion house vaulted 29 percent to 284 million euros, or $372.2 million, as reported. For couture, Toledano noted the “U.S. is pick- ing up again” and “we have couture clients in Europe, and they continue to come.” Eager to secure production capacity and know- how for future development, Dior has acquired …Valentino… embroidery firm Maison Vermont, WWD has learned. The deal could be revealed this week. Founded in 1954 by Jean Guy Vermont, the Paris-based atelier gained fame for doing em- broideries for Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne in the Sixties. In 1995, Léonard Cione, a graduate of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts de Lyon, assumed the creative direction. He is to remain at the firm and continue overseeing its artistic patrimony. Vermont is recognized by the French Ministry of the Economy, Industry and Employment as an Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (or Living Heritage Company), a distinction honoring excep- tional traditional and industrial skills. Besides supplying embroideries to couture and ready-to- wear houses, Vermont has realized stage costumes for Johnny Hallyday and Lido dancers, according to the Living Heritage Company site. Dior’s purchase of Vermont continues the trend of major fashion houses buying the artisans who support the craft of couture. Last December, Chanel acquired Paris-based embroidery firm Montex, bringing to eight the number of spe- cialty ateliers it controls through its affiliate, Paraffection, as reported. Pavlovsky noted that Chanel also recruited about 10 people for its atelier on Rue Cambon last year and continues to beef up its workrooms. Executives agreed couture continues to defy widespread financial gloom. Versace’s return to the runway at the Ritz hotel speaks to the Milan-based house’s confidence in the rare and costly enterprise. Gian Giacomo Ferraris, Versace’s ceo, cited a “sig- nificant” increase for the spring Atelier Versace col- Armani’s Mancone characterized its Beijing show- lection and said its couture business is on track to ing — including 15 new looks for Armani Privé, in- grow by 32 percent this year versus 2011. spired by the host country — as being “hugely suc- Ferraris added he expects no slowdown as cou- cessful,” generating interest and enquiries. ture welcomes customers from emerging markets “We are using traditional methods to recruit cus- like China, Brazil, Turkey and Russia. “But we also tomers in Asia — a program of strategic store open- have some loyal customers from traditional cou- ings in key cities to seed interest and give focus to the ture markets who return to us,” he said. Givenchy’s refurbished couture salon. brand at a local level,” he added. Stefano Sassi, ceo of Valentino, said couture Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld reprised its spring registered “major double-digit” growth in 2012, in couture in Tokyo in March, yielding additional or- the neighborhood of 30 to 40 percent, returning ders and clients willing to trade up from rtw. the Roman house to pre-2008 levels, when Lehman Chanel’s Pavlovsky said Asian clients, includ- Bros. failed, sending financial markets into a spiral. ing Japanese, already generate roughly a quarter The spring Valentino collection “confirmed the of its couture business. For two years, Chanel’s same level of the previous year,” he said, citing couture team has been taking the collection to strong consumer reaction to the designs of Maria Tokyo, Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai, in ad- Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. “Luxury is dition to its usual stops in New York and Los performing very, very well.” Angeles. Asian clients, he noted, tend to zero in Valentino’s “habitual” markets for couture — on Chanel’s daywear rather than the red-carpet or including the Middle East and Europe — remain special-occasion looks prized in more established strong, with Asia and Brazil starting to produce markets of Europe and America. buyers, along with some “jet-set” African nationals. Puig’s Toledano said Gaultier still counts most- “For those who can afford it, couture offers the ly a Western clientele for couture,” so there is a height of rarity, one of a kind, hand-made fashion,” big upside with emerging markets for this house.” said Fabio Mancone, global head of communication Indeed, he noted that its Beijing blowout in and licenses for Giorgio Armani Group, citing a “sig- May, which included a runway parade of male nificant” increase in sales of its spring Privé couture. high fashions, generated serious inquiries from “I believe it stands for so much more than mere the men in attendance. wealth, and so has an appeal that is more on par with While many clients do not attend the couture works of art than expensive, trend-driven clothing. I shows in Paris, the celebrity-studded spectacles actually believe that at the moment, in spite of the attract worldwide attention. economic troubles, couture is enjoying something of Ferraris credited Donatella Versace’s return to a revival, as people focus on authenticity and heri- the couture schedule — she did a tableau vivant tage as key values when considering a purchase.” in January — for raising the visibility of the col- Speaking to China’s potential, Dior, Giorgio lection, yielding new clients. (Previously, couture Armani and Gaultier paraded couture dresses at dresses were shown to sittings editors only.) special events in Beijing and Shanghai earlier this He noted Versace also staged a “road show” of its year, yielding additional orders for their spring col- Atelier gowns in China to raise awareness, which he lections and piquing the curiosity of elite rtw clients, characterized as “hugely successful for us.” some of whom were planning to make a trip to the Suhl noted Givenchy’s couture sales spiked French capital to view the fall collections this week. when designer Riccardo Tisci decided in 2010 “I think we’re just at the start,” Dior’s to forgo the runway and present 10 looks in still- Toledano said of the Asian market, where he de- life format at a lavish townhouse on the Place tects strong demand for unique, exceptional and Vendôme. “Ultimately, what the customer wants rare products with heritage and provenance. is uniqueness,” he stressed. “Having couture is a key asset approaching the Starting this season, Givenchy clients will be emerging markets,” he said. “This is the difference able to place orders in its historic couture salons between real luxury and the rest of the industry.” at 3 Avenue George V, which have been renovated Sebastian Suhl, ceo of Givenchy, said most of under Tisci’s exacting instructions. Raw ceilings, its couture sales already emanate from emerging SOPHIE CARRE industrial lighting and ventilation pipes are a markets, “and we’re just starting now with Asia. A Dior couture look. hard-edged foil to the elaborate Parisian mold-

I’m sure we’ve only begun to scratch the surface.” PHOTO BY ings and point-Hongrie parquet. 8 WWD MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 WWD.COM Couture Kicks Off Atelier Versace: Donatella Versace viewed Sunday eve- ning’s show as a homecoming to the Ritz Paris, site of so many of Gianni Versace’s couture triumphs. Though admittedly nervous, Donatella wanted to show at the storied location before its lengthy renovation closure in homage to her brother and because she finally found the strength to return. Yet she stressed the mo- dernity of her approach, beginning with the set, a se- ries of three clean mirrored panels that changed color juxtaposed against the grandeur of the pool room. That counterpoint perfectly captured the mood of the collection, which looked slick and fresh while remaining very much Versace. Donatella is a woman who knows her house and her customers, both ce- lebrity regulars and increasingly, the uberrich ladies who live well to the luxe-loving East of Paris. She knows that couture-by-day is not what those women want from Versace. Rather, they crave that which the house does to perfection: glamour gone flamboyant. Invoking a motif of deconstruction and reconstruc- tion, Versace went to pieces, literally. Typically start- ing with a corset, she worked hourglass minis and billowing gowns in seemingly random, finely rendered patchworks of intricate fab- rics and racy precision rows of high- gloss patents. If the lineup lacked LL 201 surprise in terms of silhouette, A 2 the fabrics offered plenty of F news. Some, such as glittering mesh, descended from house standards; others – silk fused to plastic; glassy, paper-thin couture chiffons – imparted a futuristic, slyly subversive edge to high- heat gowns in a range of beauti- PARIS ful, girly hues – yellows, blues, pinks, purples. Heightening the visual pop, Versace coopted tarot card elements (Roman numerals; celestial bodies) for her prints. She liked the motif, she said last week, because the cards are conduits to seeing the future. Given this lineup, any fashion Kreskin worth his turban would see plenty of red-carpet stunners — the kind that get morning-after raves — on the Versace horizon. Giannoni Giovanni

366 Fifth Avenue, Suite 507, New York, NY 10001, USA by www.majorica.com Photos

w02a008b.indd 8 7/1/12 6:57 PM 07012012185852 SCHIAPARELLI CELEBRATES: Farida Khelfa and Diego Della Valle feted the opening of Schiaparelli’s new couture WWDSTYLE salons. PAGE 10

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE

Joan and James PARIS — Christina Hendricks — Joan Holloway on “Mad Men” — and Pierce Bronsnan (aka Bond, James Bond) joined FOD (Friends of Donatella) for an intimate dinner at the Ritz Paris hotel after her Atelier Versace show — an emotional homecoming for the designer. For more on the show and party see page 10.

Incidentally, The Cut is moving Beckman brought the guns-blazing management cultures colliding. MEMO PAD away from the focus on fashion to cover culture of Condé to the world of trade Beckman never blended in with the women’s stories more broadly. publications, making big-ticket hires — bottom-line-driven culture of private — ERIK MAZA according to reports, former Us Weekly equity, sources said. Meanwhile, the A PLACE TO WRITE: Robin Givhan missed the editor Janice Min took her seven-figure partners had very high expectations for regular check-ins. When she was at The BECKMAN EXITS: The door has finally salary to run The Hollywood Reporter, Condé’s former Mad Dog. Washington Post, she would often take revolved on Richard Beckman, the high- which she turned into a glossy weekly. “It’s just a different way of doing to her blog to write about events that profile chief executive officer of the Beckman also installed columnist Michael business. They expect a shorter weren’t runway-specific or related to a publisher that owns trade magazines Wolff as editorial director of AdWeek. turnaround,” a source said. “If you’re store visit. “Things that popped up that The Hollywood Reporter, AdWeek and Beckman has been dogged by rumors going to spend x dollars, how many needed to be acknowledged,” she said. Billboard. He has been pushed out of about his future at Prometheus for more dollars do you expect back?” “Brief little thought pieces.” Prometheus Global Media after two-and- than a year. In March 2011, he had to Sources say Beckman had been Now Givhan, who joined The Daily a-half years as ceo, several sources said fight back speculation that the partners recently making calls to friends, Beast and Newsweek company nearly two early Friday. Reached at Prometheus were seeking to sell the company. Last letting them know he’s no longer at years ago, is going to have that, becoming offices, Beckman said, “I am not in a July, a new round of rumors began Prometheus and that he’s looking for one of the contributors to a new blog, position to comment.” circulating about his role. While he new opportunities. FashionBeast. “You’ve got stuff that comes After WWD reported the news, remained ceo, Finkelstein assumed In the statement, Finkelstein praised over the transom and it’s interesting and Prometheus released an official statement some of his responsibilities on the Beckman. “Richard was an important you want to have a place for it,” she said. later in the afternoon with a confirmation. publishing side while Beckman focused part of our brands’ success in these The Daily Beast has a fashion vertical “I am proud of what we accomplished on launching a new entertainment past years, and we wish him all the best that consists of aggregated content and here over the last two-and-a-half years. division. At the time, Finkelstein and in the future,” he said. The statement slide shows — “The 10 Most Expensive I wish them continued success in the Beckman denied the suggestion that described the exit as a “mutual Sweatpants,” for instance. Reported future,” Beckman said in a prepared his position had been diminished, consent.” It is not clear when Beckman’s features and items, beside those that are statement. even as he was seen in the office only last day at Prometheus’ downtown in the print edition, are more infrequent. Beckman left as ceo of the Condé sporadically after that. offices will be, or if Finkelstein will The blog, which will still rely on Nast subsidiary Fairchild Publications, Reports of tension between Finkelstein assume his responsibilities as ceo. aggregated content and video, will parent of WWD, in 2009 to become ceo and Beckman surfaced again last fall Guggenheim Partners president Todd replace the vertical and will be updated of Prometheus, then called e5 Global in the New York Post when Finkelstein Boehly could not be reached for comment. several times a day with short items and Media, a new media company that pushed Wolff out at AdWeek. The move Finkelstein could not be reached at commentary by Givhan, staff writer Isabel had been formed by Jimmy Finkelstein’s suggested Beckman himself was under Prometheus’ offices. The news comes as Wilkinson and other contributors still to be Pluribus Capital and Guggenheim pressure, and sources say Finkelstein Prometheus rival Penske Media Group determined. It will launch July 25. Partners, a Chicago-based financial and Guggenheim Partners have been is getting ready to rejigger its Web site The blog’s format is similar to New services firm. The company paid $70 orchestrating an exit since then. Movieline under the direction of former York magazine’s The Cut, whose bloggers million to buy a stable of trade magazines The discord between Beckman Gatecrasher editor Frank DiGiacomo, whose update it regularly with quick posts. from Nielsen Business Media. and his partners stems from two hire was first reported in WWD. — E.M. 10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 All the Pretty Girls and Boys Schiaparelli Opens

THE FRONT ROW of the when I was in high school. I Atelier Versace couture show remember some pretty bad eye Paris Couture Salons at the Ritz Paris on Sunday hotels,” she laughed. looked a little like a “Glee” Morrison took advantage of reunion. Cast members Lea the show’s summer hiatus to Michele, Corey Monteith and cut his famously wavy locks. “I Matthew Morrison were among wanted a nice summer look — the star-studded audience, just nice ’n’ easy to celebrate which also included Elizabeth vacation,” he explained. Banks, Jessica Alba, Christina The performer said he was Hendricks and Fan Bingbing. recording his second album, Michele and Monteith, who which will feature Broadway are a couple offscreen, were standards including “On on the last leg of a European the Street Where Yo u Live” tour that has taken them to and “The Lady Is a Tramp.” the U.K., the Netherlands and He’s also looking forward Belgium. Michele said it was to performing them for an a far cry from the trip around audience. “There’s nothing for DOMINIQUE MAITRE the British Isles that she took an actor like being on a live after graduating high school. stage,” he enthused. “I like this one better, trust Hendricks, meanwhile, was PHOTOS BY me. I wasn’t staying at the Ritz keeping fans guessing about a possible romance between “Do you like my new home?” “Prêt-à-couture” is the her character, Joan Holloway, Farida Khelfa trilled Saturday nomenclature Della Valle has and leading man Don Draper FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE morning, leading a tour of chosen for Schiaparelli, which on “Mad Men.” “I can never the sumptuous and whimsical is plotting a small fashion say never, only [series creator] WWD.com/eye. new couture salons for show at its salons during Paris Matt Weiner can say that, but not Schiaparelli on the Place Couture Week next January. that I’m aware of,” she smiled. Jessica Vendôme in Paris. Khelfa hosted an intimate The actress recently traded Alba Although the storied cocktail Sunday night for the Joan’s hourglass dresses for brand, acquired by Italian likes of Sharon Stone, Jacques black turtlenecks and cigarette entrepreneur Diego Della Valle Grange, Victoire de Castellane and pants for her role as a beatnik M.I.A. in 2006, has yet to hire a Haider Ackermann to show off the in British director Sally Potter’s designer, and its first collection reception rooms, which boast untitled new film. “It takes is expected in January, the stunning views of the historic place in 1960 in London, and it’s colorful, art-stuffed rooms square and its Napoleon- sort of about a family dealing telegraph the brand’s surrealist topped column. with the threat of potential roots — and its hyper-luxurious “Sit, sit — you can be the nuclear war,” she said. business approach. first one,” Ines de la Fressange Pierce Brosnan, in town “People want exclusive said to Stone, motioning her to shooting “Love Punch” things,” said Khelfa, dressed a pristine sofa in sky blue satin. opposite Emma Thompson, said in a vintage polka dot dress, Appointed with pale Forties it was his first-ever fashion electric blue heels and furniture, the bright grand salon show. “It’s quite delightful, gleaming gold jewelry. Named boasts a lobster-shaped chest Fan I’m sitting here beside this spokeswoman of the house of drawers by designer Vincent Bingbing beautiful Chinese actress, in May, she was joined in an Darré and a sphinx sculpture that and Christina Hendricks is interview by Schiaparelli’s once crouched in Schiaparelli’s just over there. Things could recently appointed chief original atelier. The mirrored Milla be worse,” he quipped. Alba executive officer, Camilla Schiavone, dining room features chairs Jovovich had put her recent foot injury previously brand manager of by Giò Ponti, a rug by Fernand behind her and was standing L’Oréal’s fragrance division. Léger, and a pair of giant metal by to film a sequel to “Sin City” eyeballs springing out of with director Robert Rodriguez. the wall. “I don’t know though — it’s Born in Rome in 1890, just a rumor. When Robert Elsa Schiaparelli was tells me to come to work, then known for designs heavily I show up,” she said. influenced by Surrealist Down the row, M.I.A. was art, such as her Shoe hat momentarily speechless after and Tear dress. being informed that Florence Schiaparelli had Welch has confessed to having a moved into 23 Place “girl crush” on the “Bad Girls” Vendôme in 1935, singer. “She does? Really?” opening a store on the she said, digesting the news. place (now occupied by “Well, that’s interesting. retailer Dubail), with She’s awesome, I love her. I ateliers upstairs. The new

didn’t know that though, so I STEPHANE FEUGERE couture salons occupy don’t know what to say. I’ll be Jean Paul Gaultier Sharon Stone the third floor, with tweeting her tonight.” Having and Haider and Ines de la offices and ateliers under

recently collaborated with PHOTOS BY Ackermann Fressange construction on four and Madonna, M.I.A. is hard at work five. (Schiaparelli closed on her next album, to be called For Milla Jovovich, the show her Paris house in 1954 “Mathangi.” “It’s actually my brought back memories of the and died in 1973.) birth name,” she explained. late Gianni Versace. “When I Khelfa, who has was 15, Gianni hired me for been a muse and close Elizabeth his couture show in Milan. I collaborator of designers Azzedine Alaïa Jean Paul Banks didn’t know how to walk, but and he loved me so much, he put Gaultier, said the revival me on a swing, and so I just project is being fanned swung on this beautiful swing by the “Schiaparelli throughout the show,” she and Prada: Impossible said. Conversations” exhibition After the catwalk show, at the Costume Institute guest repaired upstairs for at the Metropolitan drinks, dinner and an after Museum in New York, on party cohosted by Le Baron. until Aug. 19. Arriving at the cocktail, Banks “Schiaparelli has ordered a Negroni. “It’s this magic sound. It’s yummy,” she cooed. While untouched,” she told in Paris, the actress plans to WWD. “It’s really the Matthew celebrate her ninth wedding DNA of fashion. Every Morrison anniversary at Caviar Kaspia. designer has referenced with Next up: Shooting “Catching her at some point. girlfriend Fire,” the next episode in the Farida Khelfa Ignoring her would be Renee “Hunger Games” saga. and Diego like a painter ignoring Puente. — JOELLE DIDERICH AND Della Valle Picasso.” KATYA FOREMAN — MILES SOCHA WWD MONDAY, JULY 2, 2012 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS

Scottie Pippen are my sports heroes,” he said of the basketball stars, who will appear in the film. Edgar Ramírez was in town for the French premiere of “An Open Heart,” which costars Juliette Binoche. Jean-Victor Meyers (right) and business partner MAITRE The busy actor recently Louis Leboiteux outside Band of Outsiders’ completed shooting on window presentation. “Libertador,” a biopic of DOMINIQUE

revolutionary hero Simón BY Band of Outsiders’ end-of-presentation Bolívar. “Beyond the fact event Friday evening, the brand’s model that I’m Venezuelan myself continued to strike a pose in his window-

Michael PHOTOS and Bolivar was Venezuelan, cum-box, seemingly unphased by three Balenciaga’s first men’s campaign, shot by Josh Olins. Pitt his legacy transcends my and days of confinement. country and transcends Jamie MEYERS The party closed the Outsiders HOMME AT LAST: Eight years after South America,” he said. “Normally Bochert AND presentation, in which a single model launching Balenciaga men’s wear, in South America, you either have the PITT spent three days boxed into the window Nicolas Ghesquière is giving it its own statesman or you have the strongman. of a gallery in Paris’ Marais district, advertising showcase. The debut Bolívar was both.” one year to understand that [vacation] is changing into a different look from campaign, showcasing the fall like a garden and oxygen, and you need the brand’s spring 2013 ready-to-wear collection, is to be unveiled August to recuperate to do a better job,” collection every 90 minutes. on Tuesday on balenciaga. Sharon he said. — KATYA FOREMAN He had been less at ease a day earlier, com and break in September Stone and however, when temperatures in Paris rose issues of magazines including her son PEAK PERFORMANCE: The Kenzo men’s wear into the mid-80s, Band of Outsiders’ creative L’Uomo Vogue, Vogue Homme Quinn. show got off to a flying start Saturday, director Scott Sternberg confided. “He was Japan and Arena Homme Plus. literally, as athletes from the Parkour 91 crouching down in the corner to get out of Josh Olins photographed model group vaulted and backflipped their way the sun,” said Sternberg, who nevertheless Marton Dorfler for the men’s through the cavernous Maison du Judo, affirmed the model was perfectly well and spots. Also on Tuesday, the to the delight of guests including Jean-Paul happy after the experience.

French house is slated to post its FEUGERE Goude and DJ Pedro Winter. Unfortunately, Ubiquitous figures at many men’s wear women’s advertising campaign, the label’s joint creative director, Carol Lim, events this week in Paris, L’Oréal heir photographed by Steven Meisel had to miss the performance following a and board member Jean-Victor Meyers and and starring a fleet of young STEPHANE death in her family. “She is in L.A. with her American actor Jesse Williams both turned models, which will follow in BY family for the funeral and will be back very up at the event. “It’s good to see them September issues. — MILES SOCHA soon in Paris,” her design partner, Humberto out of the U.S.,” Williams commented of PHOTO Leon, explained in an e-mail. — J.D. the Californian brand — which is seeing SEX SELLS?: Donatella Versace’s growing notoriety in Europe — saying he parade of muscled gladiator types in Niels Schneider has also been tackling MARATHON MAN: While guests chilled out, particularly likes its wearable esthetic. Milan was just a teaser. Rumor has it a mythological character — in his case, sipping iced beer in the street outside — ALEX WYNNE the Italian designer is plotting a new straight out of Homer’s “The Odyssey.” men’s fragrance called Eros, slated for The actor plays Telemachus, the son introduction in the fall. According to a of Odysseus and Penelope, in the film Paris source, photographers Mert Alas adaptation of the epic Greek poem. and Marcus Piggott already shot a wet- “We have taken a lot of liberties with and-wild ad image, with art direction the original text,” he said. “We decided by Giovanni Bianco, known for his work to tell the side of the story that Homer with Madonna. — WWD STAFF left out.” Sitting next to his father, LVMH For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. DIOR TO STREAM: Raf Simons’ first fashion Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chairman show for Dior will be live-streamed on and chief executive officer Bernard elle.fr and diormag.com today at 2:30 Arnault, Alexandre Arnault said he has p.m. Paris time (or 8:30 a.m. Eastern given up his budding career as a Standard Time). Elle.fr, the French DJ to focus on his academic work. Spaces edition of Elle’s Web site, has already The 22-year-old, who is preparing created a page dedicated to the event. to study engineering, said he hoped It includes a countdown to the show, a to eventually join the family firm, COMMERCIAL DESIGNER ...... 60 -$80 k biography of Simons and photographs though he had no specific brand in REAL ESTATE SEWING FACTORIES NEEDED Infant and Toddler Branded Exp of celebrities wearing Dior. mind. “They’re all amazing, so I’ll take Manufacturer looking for sewing facto- Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 ries in NY Area - steady work! Dresses, [email protected] Dior.com also has a teaser. One way whichever will have me,” he laughed. sportswear - fast turning, quality ori- to access it is by clicking on “Fashion — JOELLE DIDERICH ented factories able to produce popular SAMPLE MAKER priced garments. Contact: Sang 646- Major apparel company seeks 2 Sam- & Accessories” and “Woman.” Visitors 366-7299| [email protected] ple Makers with sport and athletic are then transferred to a countdown. TIME OUT: Sipping an iced tea, model- Showrooms & Lofts wear experience. Ability to work with BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS woven and stretch fabric required. By choosing the “Get My Seat” option, cum-musician Jamie Bochert was among Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Must have working knowledge of flat Internet users arrive at a Facebook the early arrivals at the Lanvin show ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 lock, cover stitch, and single needle machines. Must be able to work well page, through which it’s possible to on Sunday morning. And for a reason. under pressure. Minimum of 5 years invite friends to the virtual fashion Her partner, actor-cum-musician experience required. Please send re- sumes to [email protected], or presentation. Michael Pitt chided her for having PATTERNS, SAMPLES, fax resumes to 212-730-9705. Ann Demeulemeester PRODUCTIONS Dior’s show — to take place in a missed ’s show a NEED SHOWROOM SPACE Full service shop to the trade. mansion on Paris’ Avenue d’Iéna — is couple of days earlier. “I had to go to Need existing showroom space to Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 share in garment center. a focal point of the couture season, a fitting. I texted her to let her know,” Call 214-469-1144/917-838-9881. which runs through Thursday. squirmed Bochert. The couple said — LAURE GUILBAULT they plan to leave town after the shows — ATTENTION CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS — to go stay with friends who have a farm OF MYTHS AND MONSTERS: Sharon Stone in Spain near Albacete. In observance of the Independence Day Holiday, set off a flurry of flashbulbs at the Dior “We recently played a concert WWD will not publish on Wednesday, July 4th. Homme show Saturday. Accompanied down there, but we’re not quite ready Fairchild offices also will be closed that day. by her toddler son Quinn, the “Basic for Paris. We need to practice more,” Deadline for issue of Thursday, 7/5 will be Tuesday, 7/3 at 11am. NATIONAL SALES MANAGER A leader in Contemporary sportswear Instinct” star wore one of the label’s said Pitt. Thank you for your cooperation. & dresses has an incredible opportuni- men’s suits designed by Kris Van Haider Ackermann was in vacation ty for an experienced National Sales Manager. Must have proven ability to Assche. Stone, who is the face of Dior’s mode, too, though of two minds about sell, build businesses and motivate a sales team. The right candidate must Capture skin care line, said she was where to go. “Well, I was just discussing have established relationships with also looking forward to seeing the first whether I go hiking in Switzerland or Department and Specialty Stores and have a min. of 5 yrs experience. Send Dior couture collection by Raf Simons whether I go lose myself in Corsica — resume to: [email protected] or on Monday. “We’re really happy to lose myself in nature,” he smiled. fax to 213-891-2812 welcome him into the Dior family,” “Thank god for vacation,” exclaimed EXPERIENCED SALES PERSON she said. Alber Elbaz, who mingled with guests Wanted sales professional for Missy import apparel co. The ideal candidate Though he may be less familiar to before the show. The designer plans must have contacts & be a motivated Western audiences, Huang Xiaoming also to travel to Italy and Asia. “The first hard worker. Sal+Comm. Resumes to: [email protected] attracted cameras. China’s number- year I came to Paris, when I was one heartthrob will soon start filming working with Guy Laroche, I arrived on “Amazing,” a special effects-laden in August when everything was shut. movie that is being produced in I was talking with Ralph Toledano, and I (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] partnership with the NBA. “I’m very told him ‘No, we are going to work in excited because Dwight Howard and the month of August.’ And it took me 12 WWD monday, july 2, 2012 WWD.COM Coty Makes Push for $700M IPO The $500M Crew {Continued from page one} the next two or three years. With its In the long run, it may be more profit- Coty is known for the company the years ahead, while supporting its concentration of business in Europe able to have the luxury shopper visit licensed businesses with $200.1 mil- and North America, Coty needs alter- the brand in airport shops. it keeps and pays handsomely to lion in advertising and promotions. nate outlets for its fragrances, which Coty clearly has not been afraid sell celebrity-branded products. The Reimann family controls Coty still account for more than 50 percent of acquisitions, as the bold bid for The firm has promised its through its Joh. A. Benckiser invest- of the business. Avon indicated. The firm has spent ment vehicle, which owns 80.5 percent A logical target is Brazil, despite $2.14 billion over the last two years licensing partners future royalty of the company. Investors Berkshire high import duties and lack of pres- to buy TJoy, Dr. Scheller, OPI and payments and advertising and Partners and Rhône Capital each tige retail infrastructure. Escalante Philosophy. Not all of those deals have have a 7.5 percent stake. Bernd Beetz, noted that there are two avenues into started off as expected. During the promotional support of more who has run the company as chief ex- that market: a company builds its own nine months ended March 31, Coty’s than $500 million. ecutive officer since 2001, has a 1.6 stores or finds a direct distributor. results were weighed down by $99.5 percent holding, while chairman Bart The attempted acquisition of Avon fell million in pre-tax asset impairment Becht, the public face of the effort to through, but there are other conduits charges to write down the value of the buy Avon, has a 1.2 percent share. into Brazil, like Jequiti, the third larg- Philosophy and TJoy trademarks after Coty has Beetz received a salary of $1.6 mil- est direct seller. “Brazil is the market the two brands posted lower-than-ex- celebrity lion last year, while the combined sal- they want to be in,” he said adding pected revenues. fragrance aries of the other four top executives that Brazilians “over index” in their Profits attributable to Coty for the deals with named in the filing totaled $3.1 million. beauty buying. “If you are in fragrance nine months fell 47.9 percent to $32.9 Jennifer None of the proceeds of million from $63.1 million a Lopez… the offering will go to Coty year earlier. Including earn- and the Reimanns will con- ings attributable to noncon- tinue to control a majority trolling interests, net income of the firm’s voting power THE NINE-MONTH REVIEw fell 32.7 percent to $58 million. after the IPO, which a finan- A look at Coty’s business for the nine Revenues for the nine cial source said could be months ended March 31. months gained 16.8 percent wrapped up by October. The to $3.59 billion from $3.07 two lead bankers handling billion. In the Americas, rev- …Sarah the offering are J.P. Morgan enues increased 29 percent Jessica Chase, Bank of America and to $1.44 billion, as turnover Parker… Morgan Stanley. in Europe, the Middle East In its pitch to investors, and Africa rose 7 percent to Coty describes itself as $1.74 billion and the Asia- “the new emerging leader Pacific business grew 26 per- in beauty” with 10 “power cent to $399.2 million. brands” including Adidas, Coty plans to list its class Calvin Klein, Chloé, A stock on either the Nasdaq Davidoff, Marc Jacobs, Global Select Market or the OPI, Philosophy, Playboy, New York Stock Exchange Rimmel and Sally Hansen. under the ticker “COTY.” Together those businesses The company will also have make up about 70 percent class B shares, which have …Madonna… of the company’s business. 10 times the voting rights of Coty is most established class A stock. in fragrances, which posted IPOs can be tricky to time revenues of $1.99 billion and price and the market itra for the nine months ended could become more difficult m March 31, but it also has to navigate as the U.S. presi- obert r color cosmetics and skin dential election approaches and body care businesses. in November. According to Euromonitor The rewards, though, can eyonce by b statistics cited by Coty, the be significant. global retail market for its The successful December

three product categories totaled $259 in the U.S., you’re not in a good spot,” offering of Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. ichner; e billion last year and is expected to in- he contended. had fashion atwitter about the poten- …Heidi Klum… crease by just 3.9 percent by 2016. Coty Similarly, Coty needs product di- tial of going public earlier this year. Steve plans to grow faster than the industry versification, said Escalante, who The designer himself has seen his at large by further developing its core gave the company high marks for net worth skyrocket by hundreds of brands, strengthening its global posi- the job it has done with the Rimmel millions of dollars. But some of the tion in cosmetics and skin care and ex- color cosmetics brand and its time- IPO enthusiasm drained away after panding its geographic reach. ly move into the super-high-growth the much-anticipated Facebook stock “We are focused on the develop- nail enamel market with acquisi- sale flopped. ment of branding and market execu- tions of Sally Hansen and OPI. But he “Facebook’s May debut was sup- tion strategies with our top global added that Coty is underrepresented posed to prove that U.S. IPOs were back

customers that enable us to enter and in skin care and Asia, particularly on course,” said Renaissance Capital. Stephane Feugere; madonna by gain share in new markets,” Coty said. China. Skin care is what sells in the “Instead, a mismanaged offering and

“We also intend to leverage our cur- East and treatment products gener- heightened market volatility led to an um by rent distribution to build our business ate the kind of loyalty missing in the abrupt, monthlong shutdown.” kL in existing geographies with our full boom and bust fragrance market. Proceeds from IPOs fell 37 percent …and product line.” Coty had acquired the Chinese skin in the second quarter versus a year Beyoncé

The key to the company’s future care brand TJoy and Philosophy in earlier, said the investment adviser. and parker Knowles.

lies in developing markets, however. the U.S., but Escalante questioned Renaissance said the offerings that ivan;

Javier Escalante, executive director of whether the quirky U.S. brand would tend to do well have “a strong funda- LL Consumer Edge Research, said Coty resonate with the Chinese consumer. mental story, visible growth and earn- needs to diversify geographically into Furthermore, he questioned whether ings and a valuation that compensates

China and Latin America, particular- Coty can build a distribution network investors for their reduced appetite Stephen Su ly Brazil, and expand more forcefully from scratch in China. for risk.” into skin care, which is expected to One suggestion that Escalante —WIthcontrIbutIonsfrom drive 35 percent of the global beauty made is that Coty should “aggressively PEtEborn,moLLyPrIor photo by and personal care market growth in explore” the global duty-free channel. AnDVIcKIm.young Lopez

campaign that breaks in September and mother of two children — in brand, which includes apparel, shoes magazines, in addition to online and addition to her elevated Hollywood and accessories, is sold in all 845 in-store components. profile as wife of McConaughey. doors of Macy’s. MeMo pad “When Macy’s approached me about The duo’s June 9 wedding was Alves and her mother market two this, I told them we need more than a splashed across the cover of People lines of handbags under their Muxo {Continued from page 9} meeting in New York. I had the team magazine recently. label, encompassing a high-end CAMILA ALVES GETS HITCHED TO MACY’S: to my home in Austin, cooked some “Camila has a beautiful, multiethnic range that sells at Nordstrom and Newlywed Camila Alves snagged a food and had some wine. They’ve got to appearance that will appeal to a a lower-priced collection that sells new husband in Matthew McConaughey really like me — it’s a big partnership,” diverse customer base. She’s on the on QVC under the Muxo by Camila and now has a new gig as brand said Alves, who hosted the third season red carpet, but she’s also a mother. Alves moniker. Alves is planning to ambassador for the private label of Bravo’s “Shear Genius” in 2008. It’s an incredible package that will launch a midpriced bag line aimed at I.N.C. International Concepts brand The wine apparently worked, deliver star power to our star brand at department stores. “The product is at Macy’s. The Brazilian-born model as Macy’s is betting on Alves’ Macy’s,” said Nancy Slavin, senior vice pretty much ready, we’re just working will appear in fall television ads for multihyphenate appeal as an actress, president of merchandising at Macy’s out the details,” she noted. the contemporary brand and a print television host, fashion entrepreneur Merchandising Group. The I.N.C.  —DAVIDLIPKE