GLOBAL GOING LUXE REACH THE BELLEVUE COLLECTION AS PROFITS AT PLOTS A $1.2 BILLION ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA RISE EXPANSION TO RAISE THE 13 PERCENT, THE BRAND LUXURY QUOTIENT IN SEATTLE. PLANS MORE RETAIL EXPANSION. PAGE 2 PAGE 12

BANGLADESH TRAGEDY Retailers, Groups Vow Compensation

By MAYU SAINI

WHO IS GOING TO PAY and how much? That is among the questions being asked as the death toll from the collapse of the apparel factory building in Savar, near Dhaka, Bangladesh, rose to 430 on Thursday, with more than 520 injured, out of which 100 amputations have been estimated. FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 The rest of the rescued workers will also need WWD new jobs, as well as immediate payments. Hundreds of workers are still missing, and eight days after the eight-story building collapsed, bodies are still being recovered from the debris. The building, Rana Plaza, housed fi ve garment fac- tories, with more than 3,000 workers in the building at the time of the collapse. The incident is being de- scribed by authorities as the worst industrial accident in the garment industry in Bangladesh and the world. “The total compensation fi gure is likely to be over $30 million in addition to the cost of emergency treat- ment,” the Clean Clothes Campaign said last week, when the death toll was known to be 300. In the But a presentation by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exports Association earlier this week noted a vastly different number, stating that the amount needed for “compensation, rehabilitation and long-term treatment was estimated at $12 million.” The organization also noted that an amount of 125 Spirit million Bangladesh taka, or $1.6 million at current ex- change rates, had already been spent on rescue activi- The Estée Lauder brand will ties and treatment. Treatment has been provided free of charge to all introduce Modern Muse, its fi rst of the injured, offi cials said. major women’s fragrance in a Talking about the range of estimates, a senior decade, in September. The scent economist in the government told WWD that would vary widely, depending on who was paying. is designed as an olfactive ode to “Living standards are experienced in substantially the dynamic self-confi dence of the different ways in an emerging economy. On the other modern woman. Expectations are hand, the expectation also goes up substantially when the money is coming from a global brand or retailer,” running high, with industry sources he said, while explaining that although $38 a month, speculating that the volume target the minimum wage that is paid to the garment workers is as high as $95 million in retail in Bangladesh, appears paltry, it is substantially higher sales globally for the fi rst full year. SEE PAGE 3 For more, see page 6. Beauty Grows at Mass

By FAYE BROOKMAN

PALM BEACH, Fla. — With customers returning to mass-market cosmetics departments with open wallets, retailers at the 80th edition of National Association of Chain Drug Stores Annual Meeting charged beauty companies to bring them fresh and relevant items. And, many want assortments custom- ized for their own stores to differentiate them from the competition. Color cosmetics sales in the mass market are up a healthy 5.4 percent for the fi rst quarter, ended March 30, according to Nielsen data. The catalyst is the nail category, with gains in the high-double digits across some brands. However, just as clouds threatened to drive pool- side gatherings of high-level execs inside at The Breakers hotel last week, there was fear economic uncertainty could dampen results for the second half of the year. Much of the industry’s success hinges on consumers’ unrelenting interest in nail-care products, coupled with retailers’ ability to achieve sales goals. To drive that growth, the 60-plus retail companies that attended the meeting — ranging from Wal-Mart to Ulta — asked the 20 beauty companies present for in- novation, support of loyalty programs and items that build basket transactions. Nails were ubiquitous at the event, including at Revlon’s opening reception, hosted by brand ambas- sador Olivia Wilde, where partygoers were treated to PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY TYLER RESTY nail-art application, and at the Wet ‘n’ Wild’s suite at SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013

Zegna Posts 13% Profit Increase THE BRIEFING BOX

Zegna pointed to a slowdown and Saks Fifth Avenue, where IN TODAY’S WWD By LUISA ZARGANI in Greater China in the last quar- corners are also being renovated. ter of 2012 and in the first quarter Last year, global retail gener- D MILAN — Exports that increased of this year, which he described ated 78 percent of sales, showing margins and were more balanced as “strange,” and will need to be a 16 percentage point growth in around the world helped the “followed carefully.” Additionally, four years. Ermenegildo Zegna Group close the negative trend in the global At the end of 2012, the com-

2012 with a 13 percent increase economy may impact the luxury pany had 543 stores, of which 303 in profits. Further gains and industry, he continued. were directly operated. An ad- more investments in its retail “It’s not easy to make forecasts ditional 30 openings are sched- network are expected in 2013. but we are well equipped. We re- uled for 2013, including stores “We have been saving for a main positive, we are confident in Geneva, London, Cancun, Abu rainy day,” chief executive officer that we can generate positive fi- Dhabi, Kuwait City, Singapore, Gildo Zegna told·· WWD. “We gen- nancial results, and we hope this Hanoi, Brisbane and a number of erated good margins, because we is a transition,” the ceo said. Chinese cities, including Beijing have been very careful to avoid Zegna expects to grow in and Shanghai. heavy discounting both at retail 2013, although “not along the “In 2013, we will continue to and wholesale — also in the U.S.” same lines as last year.” That invest in Europe, the U.S., Mexico, The executive also cited more said, he underscored the compa- People’s Republic of China, Katy Perry at the Delete homogenous growth around the ny will invest more in 2013 than Australia and Singapore and in Blood Cancer DKMS Gala. STEVE EICHNER world compared with past years, in 2012, although he declined to new markets, such as Nigeria and For more, see WWD.com when sales were largely chan- provide details. Investments will Vietnam, to expand our retail net- PHOTO BY neled through Greater China. be mainly aimed at improving work,” said Zegna. Just back from In the 12 months ended Dec. and expanding the group’s retail a two-day event in Sydney to cel- 31, the Italian men’s wear group network, and in communication ebrate the 50th anniversary of Compensation to the victims has become a highly discussed saw net profits climb to 130 mil- and advertisement. the Ermenegildo Zegna Extrafine topic in the aftermath of apparel factory building collapse near Wool Trophy, the executive Dhaka, Bangladesh. PAGE 1 said he expects Australia to

become one of the “top 10” We generated good margins, because countries for the group. Retailers at the National Association of Chain Drug Stores Annual Meeting charged beauty companies to bring them fresh Asked about the men’s PAGE 1 we have been very careful to avoid heavy wear market today, Zegna said and relevant items. he feels this is “a good mo- discounting both at retail and wholesale. ment” for the category, noting President Obama on Thursday nominated Michael Froman that two areas in particular for U.S. Trade Representative and Penny Pritzker as — GILDO ZEGNA, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA GROUP are “growing strongly, luxury Commerce Secretary. PAGE 3 sportswear and accessories,” in addition to Su Misura, or Some 90 looks paraded down the runway Wednesday night lion euros, or $166.4 million, “The brand is well-positioned, made-to-measure tailoring, which at the Fashion Institute of Technology end-of the-year runway compared with 115.1 million but we continue to relocate to can be further developed. show. PAGE 4 euros, or $160 million, in 2011. bigger spaces and renew stores In 2013, the company will un- Earnings before interest, with [architect] Peter Marino. Our veil the first collections overseen Narciso Rodriguez is in expansion mode, this week unveiling taxes, depreciation and amortiza- customers travel and we want to by Stefano Pilati. He started Jan. 1 a revamped Web site and e-commerce capabilities for the tion reached 250.2 million euros, offer the same freshness and mo- as creative director of the group’s first time. PAGE 5 or $320.2 million — 19.8 percent dernity everywhere around the Agnona women’s line and head of sales — up 7.5 percent from world, not only in new and emerg- of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, The Estée Lauder brand aims to reclaim with its fragrance 233 million euros, or $323.9 mil- ing countries,” said Zegna, add- with responsibility for that brand’s heritage this fall with the introduction of Modern Muse. PAGE 6 lion, the previous year. ing that about 70 percent of group fashion show as well as for the Sales increased 11.9 percent stores have been renovated over Ermenegildo Zegna Couture col- ·· Sheri McCoy was praised by Avon Products Inc. stockholders to 1.26 billion, or $1.61 billion, the past two years. lection. Zegna declined to provide as she took charge of her first annual meeting as the compared with 1.13 billion euros, “We are renewing and extend- a peek into the designer’s work, PAGE 8 or $1.57 billion. ing our Chicago boutique, relocat- but was upbeat, touting “good company’s chief executive officer. Dollar amounts have been ing in Beverly Hills, redid Costa progress,” adding that Pilati is converted at average exchange Mesa and will open in Dallas. The “ready to surprise,” and admitting Sophie Auster helped Ferragamo fete the 35th anniversary of rates for the periods to which U.S. is one of the areas where we there are “great expectations for its Vara footwear on Tuesday in New York. PAGE 9 they refer. are more positive, and we hope his first show in Milan” in June. Over 90 percent of sales came in a positive trend, although April The Trivero, Italy-based com- New York magazine’s Hurricane Sandy package helped editor from exports, with emerging mar- was slow,” he said. pany took a 3 percent stake in in chief Adam Moss collect another trophy, best magazine of kets accounting for 46 percent of Zegna stressed that wholesale Brunello Cucinelli last year, and the year, at the National Magazine Awards. PAGE 9 total revenues. The main mar- remains key, and that after prun- on the back of the Pomellato sale kets driving growth were Greater ing a number of points of sale to Kering (the former PPR) last Joseph Wan, the longtime group chief executive officer of China, the U.S., Russia and the in Europe and the U.S., he ex- week, and asked about poten- Harvey Nichols, is set to step down and the search is on for his Middle East. Conversely, Spain, pects growth from that channel tial investments in other brands, successor. PAGE 11 Japan and Korea contracted. as well. In the U.S., he said the Zegna said he had “enough on Europe was positive overall, with company relies on “great collabo- his plate” and reiterated that he The Bellevue Collection, a 4-million-square-foot, mixed-use sales in Italy, France and the rations with major stores,” from had no interest in publicly listing complex near Seattle, is betting big on luxury. PAGE 12 U.K. increased by tourists. Nordstrom to Neiman Marcus the family-owned company. ON WWD.COM

BEAUTY: Evander Holyfield Jr. landed a knockout punch — of Hugo Boss Earnings, Sales Decline in Q1 the emotional kind — at Wednesday night’s seventh annual are expected to rise at high-sin- ative impact from ongoing conver- Delete Blood Cancer DKMS Gala. For more, see WWD.com. By MELISSA DRIER gle-digit rates. sion of shops-in-shop from whole- Boss is also projecting con- sale to retail — in particular El BERLIN — Challenging economic tinued double-digit growth in its Corte Inglés in Spain this quarter.” TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. conditions and a shift in the tim- own retail business and stable The group’s own retail network WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ing of wholesale deliveries nega- development in the wholesale — including outlets and online COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. tively impacted profits and sales channel in the coming year. business — reported a 15 percent VOLUME 205, NO. 91. FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional at Hugo Boss in the first quarter. “With a better performance sales increase in local currencies issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Both net earnings and earn- of the wholesale business in the to 278.7 million euros, or $368.1 Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, ings before interest and taxes further course of this year, we million, in the first quarter. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, declined 14 percent, to 82 million shall return to renewed growth Comp-store sales rose 2 per- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver euros, or $108.3 million, and to in the second quarter already,” cent on a currency-adjusted basis. Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North 111.4 million euros, or $147.1 mil- said chief executive officer The Boss retail network expand- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. lion, respectively. Claus-Dietrich Lahrs. ed by 36 doors to 876 in the peri- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or Group sales slipped 2 percent, In the first quarter, wholesale od, and Boss plans to open a total inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine reaching 593.5 million euros, or sales dropped 14 percent to 301.9 of 50 new stores in 2013. is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. $783.9 million. million euros, or $398.8 million. Strong performance in You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt Dollar figures are converted Citigroup analyst Thomas Chauvet the U.S. boosted sales in the of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request from the euro at average exchange noted the deceleration was largely Americas by 6 percent in local for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at rates for the periods in question. anticipated and “exacerbated by currencies, and slight growth in www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that The company nonetheless re- various disruptive effects: impact China contributed to a 1 percent we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at affirmed its growth forecast for from the shift to a four-collection increase in sales in Asia. P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED the full year. Currency-adjusted cycle (summer collection delivered In Europe, where wholesale ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER sales and earnings before in- in the second quarter); advanced remains the most important dis- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR terest, taxes, depreciation and deliveries of spring collection in tribution channel, sales for the DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A amortization before special items quarter four of 2012, and slight neg- quarter were down 5 percent. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3 , 2013 3 WWD.COM Obama Names Choice for USTR the respect of our trading part- dent of the National Council of By KRISTI ELLIS ners around the world. He has Textile Organizations. “I think also won a reputation as being [Froman] will have to send a WASHINGTON — President an extraordinarily tough nego- message to Vietnam that they Obama on Thursday nominated tiator while doing it. He does not need to cooperate or the TPP Michael Froman, currently a se- rest until he’s delivered the best is not going to work for them.… nior economic adviser, for the possible deal for American busi- I’ve heard him described as a U.S. Trade Representative’s post, nesses and American workers. closer, and I think he is going and Penny Pritzker, a Chicago He’s fought to make sure that to need to really impress upon businesswoman and longtime po- countries that break the rules the Vietnamese that they need litical supporter and fund-raiser, are held accountable.” to begin seriously negotiating as Commerce Secretary. As USTR, Froman would on textiles and that it will be a Both cabinet-level posts will lead Obama’s trade negotiations yarn-forward agreement that oversee agencies that craft poli- and act as the enforcer of trade will be good for them.”

cies and regulations affecting agreements. Among his top pri- Kevin Burke, president and CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTY IMAGES the fashion industry, from in- orities will be taking over the chief executive officer of the Michael Froman and President Obama ternational trade to domestic negotiation of the Trans-Pacific American Apparel & Footwear manufacturing, and must be Partnership between the U.S. Association, said of Froman and PHOTO BY confirmed by the Senate. and 11 other nations. Pritzker, “Finally, we will now ating stance the EU and U.S. ties ranging from the collection of Froman, deputy national secu- The TPP has wide-ranging have a complement on the trade have taken in past discussions,” economic data and the census to rity adviser for international eco- implications for the apparel and side that can help move for- Hughes said. “The EU trade talks imports and exports. The depart- nomic affairs at the White House, textile industry, which is divided ward TPP and the possibility of are very important. Duties are ment also chairs the interagency has played a key role in Obama’s over rules governing apparel pro- a U.S.-EU FTA, which will take important, but also finding ways Committee for the Implementation trade agenda over the past few duction and duty-free benefits. many years to complete, but at to deal with the inconsistent reg- of Textile Agreements that is re- years, often working alongside The U.S. has proposed a yarn-for- least we have the leadership in ulatory barriers is critical.” sponsible for factors impacting former USTR Ron Kirk, who ward rule of origin, supported by place to make progress.” One of Pritzker’s top priori- textile trade policy, such as short stepped down in February. the domestic textile industry but Julia Hughes, president of ties at the helm of Commerce supply petitions that allow com- “Over the past four years, he’s opposed by apparel importers, the U.S. Association of Import- will be continuing and promoting panies to use third-country fab- been my point person at global that requires apparel be made of ers of Textiles & Apparel, said the implementation of Obama’s ric and yarns under certain trade forums like the G-8 and G-20 fabric and yarns supplied by the that while TPP will be a pri- National Export Initiative, which agreements when the product is and…he’s been the driving force, U.S. and other TPP countries to ority for Froman, the U.S.-EU seeks to double U.S. exports by deemed to be not commercially oftentimes, in organizing these qualify for duty-free benefits. free-trade agreement will be a the end of 2014. The NEI has produced in the U.S. The agency incredible international sum- “I think textiles [and apparel] “close second.” helped spur interest in a Made shares oversight with the U.S. mits in which huge amounts of remains one of the most difficult “The talks with the EU will in America movement in the ap- International Trade Commission business gets done,” Obama said chapters in the TPP negotia- drag on for a long time, as we parel and textile sector. over decisions on antidumping in the Rose Garden. “He has won tions,” said Cass Johnson, presi- know from the tough negoti- Commerce oversees activi- and countervailing duty cases. Kate Spade Shines at F&P Impact on Bangladesh Victims Weighed a very exciting plan.” {Continued from page one} for those injured and payments to the families of the By EVAN CLARK All together this year, the than what the same workers would make in alterna- deceased. We shall be reviewing our commitments Kate Spade brand, including tive professions and is considered a substantial living constantly to ensure that they meet the needs of the KATE SPADE continued to the Saturday and Jack Spade wage within the parameters of the society. victims as the tragedy continues to unfold.” motor ahead in the first quarter businesses, will open up to 35 Moshrefa Mishu, president of the Garment Matalan confirmed that New Wave, one of the with a 22 percent gain in compa- full-price stores in the U.S., up Workers Unity Forum, said, “The compensation companies at Rana Plaza, had been a supplier for rable-store sales, which helped to 25 international points of should be equivalent to a whole-life earning for the brand and said it would provide some finan- Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc. narrow distribution and as many as 12 each of the victims who are injured, 3 million cial support even though it didn’t have any cur- its losses more than projected. outlet doors. Bangladesh taka, or around $38,000, for those in- rent production there. The company is said to want At Juicy, the turnaround jured, and 5 million Bangladesh taka, or around “We can confirm that we are working closely to sell off Lucky Brand and effort continues under the $64,000, for the family of the deceased workers.” with the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers Juicy Couture and trim itself guidance of ceo Paul Blum. Ye t the experiences of the Tazreen Fashion & Export Association and our local team in down to a portfolio of one, Kate McComb said Blum has Ltd. fire in November, where 111 garment workers Bangladesh to provide financial and other support Spade, using the money from changed the product assort- lost their lives, have cautioned many of the gar- to help those affected,” the company said. asset sales to develop that busi- ment and is focusing on outlets, ment workers who seek compensation. El Corte Inglés of Spain and PVT from Denmark ness at home and abroad. the international business and Despite many promises, local press reports quote have also committed to pay some financial compen- Would-be acquirers appear also is launching Juicy Sport government officials as saying that only 62 of the 112 sation, according to Clean Clothes Campaign. to be more interested in Lucky and an intimates line next year. deceased’s families have received compensation of Others, such as Bon Marché, said that they Brand, first-round bids for Juicy Couture’s sales fell 600,000 Bangladesh taka, or $7,676, each. A protest would decide how best to offer support to those which were due on Tuesday, 10.7 percent in the quarter to on Tuesday by the families of the workers who lost affected. Benetton and Mango, both of which said according to sources. William $98 million with a 2 percent their lives in the fire marked the grave fact that 37 they had one-time orders at the location, have not L. McComb, chief executive of- comp decrease. Lucky’s sales families had not yet received any compensation and made any commitments so far. ficer of Fifth & Pacific, is said rose 16.5 percent to $117 mil- that 13 bodies had not yet been identified. Efforts to pay immediate compensation have to be looking for more than lion with a 2 percent comp gain. Galen Weston, executive chairman of Joe Fresh begun in Bangladesh itself, with companies, indi- $400 million for the brand. Eric Beder, an analyst at parent Loblaw Cos., calling for a more proactive viduals and organizations coming forth with help. That would be a lot of fuel Brean Capital, raised his tar- approach to compensation, said Thursday, “I’m The BGMEA and Bangladesh Knitwear for the Kate Spade engine. get price on the stock to $24 troubled by the deafening silence from other ap- Manufacturers and Exporters Association com- Kate Spade’s net sales shot up from $21 and said investors parel retailers on this.” mitted in a meeting on April 27 that each member 63.1 percent to $141 million in the have a chance to win whether Several brands that manufactured through compa- unit of the two organizations would donate not quarter. Excluding $25 million in or not Fifth & Pacific spins off nies at Rana Plaza have unveiled plans to pay com- less than 25,000 Bangladesh taka, or $320 each, a sales from the Kate Spade Japan Lucky Brand and Juicy. pensation to victims of the disaster. These include BGMEA official told WWD. business, which was brought in “If Fifth & Pacific shift to a Joe Fresh, and Primark and Matalan of the U.K. The The BGMEA and BKMEA have both said that house, the brand’s sales jumped Kate Spade monobrand vehicle, worry, leaders of garment unions in Bangladesh said, employment would be ensured for recovered 34.1 percent. Kate Spade logged investors should see a net cash is that there is no clear indication at this time about workers or their families, support provided to adjusted earnings before in- megagrowth concept,” Beder the amounts or a time line for the compensation. traumatized workers who need long-term treat- terest, taxes, depreciation and said. “If all the brands are re- Joe Fresh founder Joe Mimran and Weston ment to get back to normal life and that disabled amortization of $19 million. tained, there will remain strong spoke to the press on Thursday, reiterating that workers will be rehabilitated. McComb told analysts on top-line growth and material they would provide compensation for victims, Meanwhile, the Bangladesh High Court had or- a conference call Thursday operating margin upside.” establish a new standard for production that in- dered an “immediate confiscation” of the property that the Kate Spade Saturday Fifth & Pacific’s net losses cludes structural integrity of facilities, and send of Sohel Rana, the owner of the collapsed build- business, which launched in decreased to $52.2 million, or Loblaw representatives to the country to ensure ing, on Tuesday. The High Court further ordered March, was off to a good start. 44 cents a share, from $60.6 buildings “reflect Canadian standards.” that the assets of the owners of the five garment “Suffice to say that we’re ex- million, or 60 cents, a year The company said Monday it would be “provid- factories be frozen and the money used to pay sal- cited, we’re optimistic and we’re earlier. Adjusted losses tallied ing compensation for the families of the victims who aries and other benefits to the workers. reading and reacting to every 16 cents a share, which was 2 worked for our supplier. We are working to ensure There has also been an extraordinary amount bit of information and learning cents better than the 18 cents that we will deliver support in the best and most of compassion at ground level. that we get every day, just what analysts projected. meaningful way possible, and with the goal of ensur- On Tuesday, a compendium of four companies — you do with a new business,” Sales for the three months ing that victims and their families receive benefits Chaity Group, Modele de Capital Ind. Ltd., Epyllion McComb said. “Coming up, we’ll ended March 30 gained 17.2 now and in the future. Our priorities are helping the Group and Ashiana Group — got together to give a be opening up pop-up shops in percent to $371.8 million from victims and their families, and driving change to help check to BGMEA equalling $41,000 as donations for Manhattan through a partner- $317.1 million. prevent similar incidents in the future.” the victims, coming out of a day of salaries from the ship with eBay now later this The company continues to Mimran said the company would continue to workers and the management of the companies. quarter, and of course, the mar- project adjusted EBITDA of work with Bangladesh and continue to help in The Jahangirnagar University authority has keting will be scaling all year. $120 million to $150 million for building in trade. granted 100,000 taka, or $1,280, to help the victims. We plan to open two to four Kate the full year. Primark said it “will also pay compensation to The government is encouraging further dona- Spade Saturday stores for the Shares of the company the victims of this disaster who worked for its sup- tions, having made a statutory regulatory order on U.S. during the rest of the year, gained 0.8 percent to $20.48 on plier. This will include the provision of long-term Tuesday offering tax exemption on donation for and three to six more for Japan; Wall Street. aid for children who have lost parents, financial aid the victims of the Savar factory tragedy. 4 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013

Rochester, N.Y. Samuelsohn Closing In on Acquisition Granovsky did not deny that JA Apparel and its Joseph Abboud chairman and chief executive of- mestic manufacturing.” label may be on the short list of By JEAN E. PALMIERI ficer of Authentic Brands Group, He said he expects to be able possible acquisitions. “It’s not the which purchased the assets of to reveal one deal within the next only domestic manufacturer, but SAMUELSOHN IS on the hunt. HMX last year. Authentic oper- few months. “We are in advanced it’s the one with the greatest size Stephen Granovsky, head of ates under a licensing model and discussions with both companies,” and it’s been for sale for a while, Grano Retail Investments, the in- negotiated a long-term licensing he said. so it’s an obvious candidate, but vestment and advisory company deal with Doug Williams, the for- But Granovsky stressed that it’s not the only one,” he said. that purchased the Montreal-based mer ceo of HMX, to handle the “any interest in Hickey or its fac- Granovsky said Grano is “very brand in 2010, told WWD, “We are day-to-day operations of Hickey tory, or any other brand,” would aggressive and inquisitive” and in discussions for at least two dif- as well as the remaining former not impact the Montreal produc- has had good success since ac- ferent acquisition opportunities HMX brands, which include Hart tion for Samuelsohn. “We are not quiring Samuelsohn. Last year that would be complementary to Schaffner Marx, Bobby Jones, at overcapacity in Montreal,” he was a record year for the 90-year- Samuelsohn.” Christopher Blue, Exclusively said. “We had high-capacity issues old brand that produces private- He declined to name names but Misook and Jag Jeans. There are in the past, but we’ve addressed label suits for Paul Stuart and acknowledged Hickey Freeman “is a no plans to sell the Hickey brand those. We’re very careful to protect Harry Rosen and sells its own great fit with Samuelsohn.” He said but its license could be transferred. what we’ve built with Samuelsohn, Samuelsohn-label goods to 250 up- Grano was interested in purchasing Salter said Authentic is “exploring and it is critically important to our scale specialty stores in the U.S. the luxury men’s wear label during all options.” customers that Samuelsohn contin- and Canada. Projections are for a the bankruptcy proceeding of its for- “We’re an investment firm and ues to be produced in our factory 20 percent increase in 2013. mer parent, HMX Group, and since we’re looking for deals,” Granovsky in Montreal.” Grano Retail Investments fo- A look from then has been “actively” discussing said. “I have no doubt we will close Sources had said that cuses on small to midsize firms Samuelsohn’s high- how to “find a way to participate. one deal — or more than one. We Samuelsohn was considering mov- in retail, wholesale and manufac- end 1923 Black Jamie, Doug and I go way back.” believe in this industry. We believe ing some of its excess production turing with volume of between $2 Label collection. James “Jamie” Salter is the in luxury and men’s wear and do- to the Hickey Freeman factory in million and $15 million. Neiman Marcus’ Ken Downing FIT Gives a Taste of Fashion’s Future

Wins Drexel’s Westphal Award Klein and the company he cofounded, Calvin Klein, By LISA LOCKWOOD Inc. Klein was unable to attend this year’s show. By MARNI PRICHARD Ken Downing Nine major designers and design houses, MANKO SOME 90 LOOKS paraded down the runway Amsale Aberra, Maggie Norris, Lisa Perry, David Wednesday night, created by graduating Fashion Neville and Marcus Wainwright of Rag & Bone, PHILADELPHIA — The Design students at the Fashion Institute of Gary Graham, Flora Nikrooz, Tom Scott, Lars recently launched URBN Technology for their annual end- Andersson and Bonnie Young, Center Annex on the Drexel of the-year runway show. These mentored the students and se- University campus was looks were selected from a field of lected the most exceptional packed with students and 300 and spanned sportswear, spe- garment by a student in their fashion executives Wednesday cial occasion, knitwear, intimate group with a special citation as night as Ken Downing, senior apparel and children’s wear. a Critic Award winner. They are vice president and fashion While the children stole the Trung Vu (Special Occasion); director of Neiman Marcus, show with their sashaying and an- Elle Loow (Special Occasion); received the second annual tics on the runway, those in atten- Carly Rosenbrook (Sportswear); Westphal Award. MASSA PHOTOGRAPHY dance were impressed with the Miguel Pena (Sportswear); Jae The award honors a leader professionalism of the designs. Lee (Sportswear); Alina Kulik in the fields of design, media & KELLY “I thought it was great,” said (Intimate Apparel); Sijeo Kim or the arts, and is one of Dennis Basso, who was seated in (Knitwear); Marines Padilla Drexel University’s Antoinette the front row. “It’s always great to (Knitwear), and Thaiana Cruz Westphal College of Media PHOTO 0BY see these students who are real (Children’s Wear). Arts & Design’s highest hon- visionary” by Allen Sabinson, innovative and creative. They’re The designers also vied ors. Downing was tapped for dean of the Westphal College so talented. I thought the linge- for cash awards from Cotton the award not only for his of Media Arts & Design. rie was extraordinary, and I’m an JOHN AQUINO Incorporated, a longtime show leadership as the luxury de- “I have to meet this Ken eveningwear kind of guy.” sponsor. Three students were partment store’s tastemaker Downing. He sounds amaz- Others at the show included PHOTO BY awarded for displaying the best but also for his work in the ing,” Downing said as he took Tom Murry, president and chief Taw Kyung Kim of South Korea won use of cotton in their designs. The fashion community helping to the stage after receiving a executive officer of Calvin Klein Cotton Inc.’s $10,000 award for best first place prize of $10,000 went to develop young designers. standing ovation. Inc.; Rebecca Minkoff, Lisa use of cotton and Siempre Mujer’s Tae Kyung Kim; the second place Downing started his day at Dressed in a black leather Perry, Maggie Norris, Marcus $2,500 award for best use of color. prize of $5,000 went to Jong Suk a Neiman Marcus Champagne jacket, skinny black tie and Wainwright, Fern Mallis and Park, and the third place prize of reception in his honor in near- second-skin tuxedo pants, Yigal Azrouël. $2,500 went to Emily Levine. by King of Prussia, followed by Downing used runway shots “Calvin Klein Inc. is pleased to underwrite such In addition, Siempre Mujer, published by a luncheon and a spring fash- of his fall must-have trends an important and inspirational show. This year’s Meredith Corp., sponsored a new award for the ion presentation, where 100 as a backdrop as he regaled students showed diversity and design prowess. As a best use of color. That award, judged by María percent of the proceeds from the audience with his in- brand we are proud to support FIT and their role in Cristina Marrero, editor in chief of Siempre Mujer, sales went to a Westphal schol- sights into the industry. After the future of fashion,” said Murry. The professionally also went to Tae Kyung Kim and came with a $2,500 arship program. Missy Dietz, dispelling the myth that produced show, dubbed “The Future of Fashion,” was cash prize and a feature in the August/September vice president and general it’s all glamour, all the time supported by a $2 million gift from alumnus Calvin issue of Siempre Mujer. manager of Neiman Marcus (“People think we just drink King of Prussia, said that the Champagne and drive around symbiosis between Downing in a Winnebago”), he charged and Drexel is clear. “The great the students to work hard fit between Drexel and Ken is and develop their own voic- Fall 2013: that they both appreciate the es. “What white space do you past, but through their belief fill? What are you going to do Michael Kors Furs in luxury fabrics and work- that’s going to make my eyes manship, they’re both always open wider and say, ‘No one MANY OF THE looks in Michael Kors’ looking toward the future in else is doing that now?’” fall fur collection, shown April 25, had a fashion,” she said. Downing also gave the stu- lightness to them that could aid in their When his time at the re- dents a realistic view on what transition from fall into spring. Most im- tailer wound down, Downing being a successful designer is pressive, though, was the inventiveness: then popped into a Drexel really about. “ Yo u must bal- bright, oversize houndstooth intarsias, classroom to give off-the-cuff ance fashion with commerce,” for instance, were hand-cut and sewn, critiques of five senior col- he said emphatically. “ Yo u can rather than printed, giving a new, lections. Telling the students have an amazing idea, but if it’s dimensional effect to clutch coats, that the most crucial thing not relevant to the woman you stoles and capelets. A knockout about designing luxury ap- dress, you won’t be a success.” camouflage intarsia shown as a coat parel is that it must fit well But most importantly, he on Kors’ fall runway was seen here and be impeccably made, he implored the students to find as a lean vest and spent time giving feedback their passion. “My passion scarf. His other on their designs. But he soon is that I want women to have bright ideas in- FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE bid the burgeoning designers confidence. When they look cluded an orange adieu as he headed over to beautiful, they feel beautiful. mink wrap, clev- WWD.com/ the URBN Center to accept That’s what drives me,” he erly quilted with THOMAS IANNACCONE fashion-news. the Westphal Award. said. “Now listen to your gut, suede insets. He was introduced as a listen to your heart…find out “style czar, tastemaker and what drives you.” PHOTOS BY WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013 5 WWD.COM Narciso Launches E-Commerce Resort By RACHEL STRUGATZ NEW YORK — Narciso Rodriguez is in expan- sion mode, this week unveiling a revamped Web 2013 site that will have e-commerce capabilities for the first time. Diesel Black Gold: The company embarked on three major For his third outing initiatives last year: the introduction of both with the brand, footwear and handbags, and the decision to creative director recreate the brand’s digital flagship in part- Andreas Melbostad nership with Wednesday and Acadaca. The looked to workwear latter is part of the company’s long-term plan and uniforms for of servicing the consumer directly, according inspiration. A fireman to Narciso Rodriguez chief executive officer coat was reimagined Robert Wichser. He calls the new site “a key in denim with metal growth vehicle” for the company going for- clasp closures and ward, predicting that e-commerce at narciso- leather strips in lieu rodriguez.com will become 20 to 25 percent of of the traditional the overall business. reflective safety tape, “We’re treating it as our flagship store. We be- while plaster dust lieve it has global reach, and it’s one area that inspired a white- ties the world of Narciso Rodriguez into one,” coated finish on Wichser told WWD. painter jeans. Denim He revealed that the brand saw double-dig- Pages from the revamped narcisorodriguez.com continued to be at the it growth in 2012 and projects an additional 30 core of the collection percent growth by year’s end. This week alone, and here was cut Wichser reported that 65 percent of traffic com- in slim shapes. Soft ing to the site is coming from the U.S., but the touches were added remaining 35 percent is international, spanning via basket-weave Italy, France and Australia. wool knits and The brand doesn’t have a retail presence yet, panels of fabric that but Wichser acknowledged that operating free- were used for mixed standing doors is critical to further establishing media dresses and the brand. “It’s at the top of our list,” he said, separates. revealing that fall 2014 is the target date for the first retail opening. Rodriguez sees a growth opportunity in par- ticular for accessories online, and is eager to see how and which parts of the collection will grow and evolve with a dedicated e-commerce channel. “There’s been a great momentum in ready-to- wear and fragrance and with our new launches of shoes and bags, we really wanted the rede- sign to showcase everything that we do and get the brand message across exactly as we want to,” Rodriguez said. The designer, whose line is now carried in 80 and prior to this week, narcisorodriguez.com was FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE doors worldwide, has generally shied away from a joint venture with Beauty Prestige International the digital and social media space. The brand has and primarily focused on the Narciso Rodriguez WWD.com/ about 20,000 fans each on Facebook and Twitter, fragrance business. runway. Cherokee Cements Target Licenses for Canada pact, Stupp said. pecially if you want to cultivate By ARNOLD J. KARR Stupp told WWD that anoth- new markets. The idea of ‘let er critical piece of its business the retailer do the heavy lifting’ THE CHEROKEE Group Inc. is — the Cherokee license held is not working.” following its biggest U.S. licens- by Tesco for Central Europe In return for its expanded ee into Canada. and the U.K. — was being re- services, the royalty rate paid The brand management com- launched. “We were basically by Tesco to Cherokee was pany reported that its Cherokee down to our minimum guaran- raised to 4 percent of sales and Liz Lange Maternity brands, tee and have now introduced from 3 percent. Prior to this ad- both licensed to Target Corp. the brand in 279 stores, and justment, royalties from Tesco in the U.S., will be sold under on tesco.com, in a premium declined to $723,000 last year license in Target’s stores in position,” he said. “The expe- from $2.8 million in the prior 12 Canada. Henry Stupp, chief ex- rience with Tesco — our need months, reducing Tesco’s share ecutive officer of Cherokee, told to do things to reinvigorate the of royalty revenues to 3 percent WWD that the two brands are in from 11 percent. Cut25 by Yigal Azrouël: the more than 20 former Zellers Royalties from Target rose Yigal Azrouël has units already opened by the to $15 million, about 57 percent cultivated a following Minneapolis-based discounter of the total, from $13.8 million, for his sexy leather in the Canadian market, a num- $6.8M or 54 percent of the total, in the jackets and body-con ber expected to expand to 125 prior year. dresses, so for resort he by the end of the year. FULL-YEAR PROFITS AT THE The disclosures about the let those staples form Zellers had been the CHEROKEE GROUP INC. Target business in Canada the base of his collection Canadian licensee for the came as the Sherman Oaks, and built from there. Cherokee brand prior to the Calif.-based company belated- Graphics came in the sale of the retailer’s real estate brand there — really led to our ly reported net income of $1.1 form of stripes and a to Target. new 360-degree strategy with million, or 13 cents a diluted deconstructed batik The Cherokee license was our licensees. The product is share, for the three months print, which were often amended for Canada with a greatly improved with slight- ended Feb. 2, 29.9 percent mixed with contrasting flat loyalty rate, rather than ly higher prices, and we’ve below the $1.5 million, or 18 materials like tweed the de-escalating rate in place backed that with better suppli- cents, reported in the prior- and ponti. Notable was for the U.S. A separate three- ers, better in-store and outside year period. Revenues, all de- a great caped jacket year agreement was signed for marketing, better product de- rived from royalty revenues, layered over a matching Cherokee uniforms, a catego- velopment and support. rose 0.4 percent to $6 million. sheath and skinny jeans, ry Cherokee took back from “The time and money that we Full-year profits dropped 9 per- as well as a group of a former licensee, at a flat 2 spent on Tesco,” he continued, cent to $6.8 million, or 81 cents, chunky knits that added percent royalty rate. For Liz “were time and money we need- as revenues rose 3.7 percent JOHN AQUINO AND GEORGE CHINSEE a nice touch of cozy to Lange, acquired by Cherokee ed to spend anyway. As a brand to $26.6 million. Publication of all the edginess. last year, the Canadian agree- owner today, it’s a fundamental the results had been delayed by ment contains a higher mini- requirement that you strengthen an internal review of financial PHOTOS BY mum guarantee than the U.S. your existing relationships, es- controls. 6 WWD friday, may 3, 2013 beauty Estée Lauder Shares Reach 52-Week High

Lauder’s New Muse Out This Fall By ViCKi M. YouNg Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corpo- By Julie NaughtoN and Pete BorN rate fragrance development worldwide for the estée shares oF the estee lauder Cos. iNC. hit a new 52- lauder Cos., noted that the juice is “modern, and has week high after the company posted third-quarter earnings the estee lauder BraNd aims to reclaim its the subtlety of contrasting forces…a modern muse is results that beat Wall street’s estimates. fragrance heritage this fall with the introduction of a study in contrasts. it’s about dynamic tension in a For the three months ended March 31, net income rose Modern Muse, its first major women’s scent state- woman’s life.” Khoury added that the interplay of dif- 37.1 percent to $178.8 million, or 45 cents a diluted share, ment since the 2003 launch of Beyond Paradise. ferent forces — softness and strength — can propel from $130.4 million, or 33 cents, a year ago. excluding re- the company that empowered women to buy women forward and serve as inspirations. structuring charges, net income rose 19 percent to $177.8 their own fragrance in 1953 with the launch of Modern Muse was designed to give a dual impres- million, or diluted ePs of 45 cents, in the quarter, com- Youth dew now plans to build upon that legacy. due sion. Khoury worked with Firmenich’s harry Fremont pared with 35 cents in the year-ago period. the results out in september, Modern Muse is positioned to to create the fragrance, which is built around two key were ahead of management’s guidance range of 28 cents to cast women as stars in their own lives, noted Jane accords: sparkling jasmine and sleek woods. the first 38 cents and ahead of Wall street’s expectations of 34 cents. hertzmark hudis, global president of the estée accord combines exotic mandarin, tuberose, fresh lily, Net sales rose 1.9 percent to $2.29 billion from $2.45 billion. lauder brand at the estée lauder Cos. inc. honeysuckle nectar, dewy petals, jasmine sambac and For the nine months, net income rose 14.9 percent to “this is the most important fragrance moment jasmine sambac China absolute. “using two different $925.8 million on a 4.2 percent sales gain to $7.77 billion. we’ve had in a decade,” said hudis, who noted that forms of jasmine gives us a textured, layered effect, investors liked the results as shares of lauder rose 2.6 the muse concept played well with lauder’s rich which adds depth to the juice,” said Khoury. “it’s a percent to close at $70.60. the stock hit a high of $71.78 in heritage in fragrance. “Modern Muse captures what dual-impression creative approach.” intraday trading. it means today to be independent and confident in Khoury did the same thing with the sleek woods By category, hair-care sales rose 8 percent to $362 mil- one’s own sense of self and style.” she added that by accord, which includes two different forms of pa- lion. Makeup was second at 5 percent to $2.93 billion, with using the term Modern Muse “we mean the idea of tchouli, along with Madagascar vanilla, amber wood skin care third, up 4.6 percent to $3.41 billion. Fragrance confidence that inspires.” and soft musk. inched up 1 percent to $1.04 billion. the sparkling jasmine accord is in- Fabrizio Freda, president and chief executive officer, told tended to impart a feminine side, while analysts during a conference call, “With most of fiscal 2013 the sleek woods accord represents now behind us, we are confident we can achieve double-digit strength, said Khoury. earnings per share growth for the fourth year in a row.” eaux de parfum in three sizes — 1 oz., the company raised ePs guidance, before charges, to 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz, retailing for $58, $78 and $2.56 to $2.61 from earlier projections of $2.51 to $2.59 in $98, respectively — will be offered, as will February, when it reported second-quarter results. a will be offered as will a 1-oz. parfum, a as expected, due to global economies, sales grew 6.7-oz. body lotion and a 6.7-oz. shower in emerging markets and were softer in some parts of gel, retailing for $285, $50 and $50, respec- southern europe and south Korea. still, prestige beauty tively. While the majority of the collection remains a top category that continues to outperform, par- makes its debut in september, the body ticularly in italy, spain and greece. By region, sales in lotion and shower gel will hit counters in asia-Pacific rose 6.5 percent to $1.69 billion, while sales late october and the parfum will be sold in the americas gained 5.1 percent to $3.31 billion. sales starting in February. in europe, the Middle east and africa grew 1.8 percent to the fragrance bottle features a soft $2.78 percent. pink-tinted juice and a spray-through in an interview, Freda spoke of the continued growth op- cap with a built-in, structured navy portunities in China. bow. the outer packaging follows these “affordable luxury, which includes high-quality cosmet- color cues and features an artistic ics, is an affordable expense compared to hard luxury,” he sketch of the bottle inside. the pink said, noting that this should continue due to the growth of The Modern Muse ad. was chosen to represent the soft, femi- the middle class in China. in addition, it makes for a compelling story “not nine side of today’s woman, while navy blue signi- Consumers there are still superinterested in skin care, only to our existing consumer base but to new, fies the trademark color of the estée lauder brand, the “most important category for women in asia,” the ceo younger consumers.” noted hudis. in addition to traditional sampling, the said. he added that now there’s also growing interest in the hudis noted that the launch also provides an op- brand plans to install dramming units at countertop. fragrance category, which wasn’t the case two years ago. portunity to beef up the brand’s fragrance business. the global rollout will be in phases. in the u.s., Freda explained that Chinese consumers are just start- “We have strong makeup and skin-care businesses, the scent will make its debut in about 2,200 depart- ing to learn about fragrance as they begin to adopt some and certainly a commitment to fragrance classics ment and specialty stores in september. the u.K., of the Western consumer preferences. the male consum- like Youth dew, Beautiful and White linen. this switzerland, south africa, australia, New Zealand er in particular represents a strong market for the com- new piece will add newness, but we believe this con- and latin america will get Modern Muse this fall, pany. like their female counterparts, men are interested cept will hold on for a very long time to come.” while europe and the remainder of the world will in skin-care routines, much more so than their peers in “We want to reassert ourselves as a fragrance pow- get the fragrance beginning in January. other geographic regions. “Men’s skin care is a growing erhouse,” added Charisse Ford, senior vice president Both tV and print advertising are planned, both fea- category in asia, i believe men will also start using fra- of global marketing for the estée lauder brand. turing the aptly named arizona Muse. stuart dryburgh grances,” Freda said. hudis added, “as a global player, it’s important for shot the tV campaign in New York City’s solomon Freda noted that while Korea remains the biggest pres- estée lauder to play in all three categories.” r. guggenheim Museum; the print ad, shot by Craig tige market by percentage, it’s seeing competition from the importance of this launch is evident in the Mcdean, was shot in the same museum (history buffs local brands that, while mass in distribution, are garnering expectations that have been circulating throughout take note: the eight bows on Muse’s dress and the the attention of many consumers who are trading down due the market. as in the past, lauder declined to break one on the bottle in the ad are intended to represent to the recession there. out sales projections or budgets, but industry sourc- the nine original muses who inspired art and beauty ivan Fernandez, president of europe, the Middle east es estimate that the new scent is aiming for a target in ancient greek mythology). the print campaign will and africa region, noted in the telephone interview that in as high as $95 million at retail globally within its include multipage ads and gatefolds, and will begin latin america overall and particularly in Brazil, the “fast- first year on counter. that’s $57 million in wholesale running in september fashion, beauty and lifestyle est growing brand is MaC.” By category, makeup is grow- value. sources in the market speculate that in order magazines. digital will also be a major piece of the ing the fastest in the region, with particular emphasis on to hit that lofty target, lauder might be investing $50 campaign, noted richard Ferretti, senior vice president eye and lip color. another growth category is fragrance, million in advertising and promotional support. and global creative director for estée lauder. Fernandez said.

Boldface, added, “it truly is a de- Boldface Inks Deal for Uglydoll Products sign brand. its points of distribu- tion are [primarily] not in the toy shave and body products under with customers across a variety market, but in the specialty store By raChel BroWN license with Mario lopez later of age groups. market. We approach it as a de- this year. alita Friedman, Pretty ugly’s sign brand and not a toy brand.” uglYdoll is gettiNg into “We are committed to the chief brand officer, realized Boldface is planning two the beauty business. positive message that ‘ugly’ is that uglydoll could translate separate beauty concepts under Pretty ugly llC, creator of the new beautiful. the brand’s into beauty when she saw the the uglydoll umbrella. there the uglydoll characters and specific, unisex attitude and harajuku lovers perfumes on will be a capsule collection plush toys, has entered into whimsical edge will be con- shelves. although uglydoll’s containing lip glosses and nail a licensing agreement with veyed through design, pack- beauty merchandise won’t be items aimed at high-end depart- Boldface group inc. for beau- aging, unique scents and the similar to those perfumes, they ment stores and priced roughly ty and personal care prod- use of quality ingredients with demonstrated to her that char- from $20 to $50. there will also ucts. the uglydoll license is result-driven formulas,” said acters could be turned into fan- be a bath and body care line Boldface’s third overall and Boldface chief executive officer ciful beauty products. “Playing An Uglydoll character. for more general distribution first outside of the celebrity Nicole ostoya, who elaborated on the word ‘ugly’ is so much fun priced mostly from $6 to $25. a category. Boldface developed that Boldface was intrigued by to think of in the beauty realm,” beauty products “to life the way small number of uglydoll beauty Khroma Beauty by Kourtney, uglydoll because it saw the po- said Friedman. the artist wants to see it done.” products will launch in time for Kim and Khloé Kardashian tential for the brand’s humor ostoya emphasized that to that point, robin Coe- the holiday shopping season fol- and is introducing fragrance, and eccentricity to resonate Boldface would bring uglydoll hutshing, creative director of lowed by a full rollout next year.

w03a006a;8.indd 6 5/2/13 7:00 PM 05022013190229 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013 7 WWD.COM

Fom left to right: Revlon’s Jamie Bernt, Joanne Santos, John Harrington, Simon Worraker, Julia Goldin, Chris Elshaw, Donna Baird, John Collier, Jon Levin and Dino De Iuliis. Heard at NACDS Annual... n Appliances Buzzing: Borrowing a page from Clarisonic and using its appliance knowledge, Conair is bringing out True Glow, a sonic skin-care tool priced under $100. Harvey Alstodt, president of MBA Beauty Inc., is distributing the skin-care device Tanda, which tar- gets discoloration and fine lines. Retailers agreed consumers are ready to buy these appliances at mass stores. n Yarnell Returns to Beauty: Lisa Yarnell is back in the business and attended the meeting on be- half of Continental Consumer Products, makers of Salon Grafix, which has repackaged and is primed for new launches. n Fragrance Redux: With color re- bounding, retailers hope fra- grance is next. Joel Ronkin, executive vice president and gen- eral manager in North America for Elizabeth Arden Inc., said al- Talk of Nail Trends, Value Dominate NACDS most every major retailer is mak- ing huge strides to adopt open-sell {Continued from page one} SensatioNail. “Nail polish is still driv- nogram features a huge commitment to environments and to add testers. The Breakers, where an excited — and ing cosmetics and gels are helping drive nails, including treatment, gels and color. “Consumers are returning to the pregnant — Fergie showed off favorite nail,” said Joel Carden, executive vice The desire to offer something differ- category,” he said, adding prestige shades from her CenterStage Collection president at Pacific World, who noted ent was a mantra. Target will test NYX is already up nicely. from Wet ‘n’ Wild. gels are 8 percent of nail polish sales, on in 100 doors, as well as “brand agnostic” n P&G Innovation Studio: Once again, “This is one of my favorite lipstick a path to hit 10 percent by yearend. beauty advisors in 150 doors. Attendees the Procter & Gamble Co. offered shades,” said Fergie, grabbing a pink Harvey Alstodt, president of MBA identified NYX as an example of a beau- a respite from the sun and work shade called V.I.Pink, which donates a Beauty Inc., however, thinks there is ty company with out-of-the-box ideas, in its studio with free shaves for portion of sales to amfAR. “This is also a a portion of women looking for more such as an eyeliner called The Curve in men, makeovers for women and great item,” she added, pointing her slick natural options. To that end, he’s of- a creative elliptical shape that makes it reflexology for all. The company polished purple-and-gold talons to her fering WaterWorks, a water-based nail easier to apply than traditional pencils. also showed its health and beauty eye primer. color. That’s one of several innovative Offering value while also encourag- innovations, including Olay Fresh The type of buzz Fergie has delivered items he showed at the meeting, along ing shoppers to trade up to higher price Effects and Cover Girl Clump to Wet ‘n’ Wild is what top executives said with Tweets, a tween nail color carried points or multiple items was a theme. Crusher mascara, which one re- they hope to see across all First-time annual meet- tailer deemed the fastest-selling beauty brands. Bill George, ing attendee E.l.f. Cosmetics item in the store. president and chief operating showed how its breadth of n Gavel Exchange: Outgoing NACDS officer of Markwins Beauty, assortment offers more than chairman Greg Wasson, presi- the parent company of Wet ‘n’ just “one size fits all,” said dent and chief executive officer Wild, said Fergie was tapped Shawn Haynes, the brand’s of Walgreen Co., handed over after market research iden- vice president of sales. With the gavel to Robert J. Narveson, tified her as a celebrity that its traditional Essentials ($2 president and ceo of Thrifty would resonate with beauty and under), E.l.f. encour- White Pharmacy. consumers. The partnership ages shoppers to place mul- n Olivia Wilde Gets Excited: Revlon am- has been fortuitous, with Wet tiple items in their basket. It bassador Olivia Wilde admitted it is ‘n’ Wild volume chalking up also works to trade up shop- “surreal” when she sees her image more than two years of dou- pers with its Studio collec- in the drugstore and said even as a ble-digit growth. tion (priced at $6 a product), little girl she loved going to drug- Some retailers worry which is growing in chains stores and playing with makeup. “It the nail business will have such as Walgreens. is an honor to catch a glimpse of my a challenge matching gains With much of the action mug in your stores,” she said. accrued in the last year, but in value pricing, Physicians suppliers said the category Formula focused on its unique is here to stay and won’t positioning. Now owned by fizzle out, as it did after the Markwins Beauty founder and chief executive officer Eric Chen and Fergie. Markwins, Physicians Formula In his presentation to suppliers on Chanel Vamp craze. is the “fastest-growing premi- how to sell dollar stores, Family Dollar Retailers who stopped um makeup” in mass, accord- president Mike Bloom discussed the by Sinful said the company ing to chief executive officer need for products customized to the showed that the nail busi- Ingrid Jackel, who said team- value proposition at his growing chain. ness is on fire. To feed de- ing up with Markwins has been The desire for customization stems mand for shiny, gel-like nail a good fit since its major brand, from better use of consumer data colors, SinfulColors is adding Wet ‘n’ Wild, is at the opposite gleaned through loyalty programs, said SinfulShine Gel Polish in 32 end of the price spectrum. Wendy Liebmann, founder and ceo of shades at Walgreens. The com- The company also ham- WSL Strategic Retail. pany is transitioning to a new mered home its “healthy” “Prior to now, retailers never knew name, called Global Value brand characteristics, which beyond the transaction what the consum- Brands, to bring Pure Ice and Jackel said hit a sweet spot er was doing. Now they know. It’s about Sinful under one umbrella. with consumers. Physicians’ what the consumer is buying — and what Manufacturers insist the BB assortment of a cream, else they’re buying,” she said. In meet- gel technology is still in its powder and concealer has de- ings with suppliers, Walgreens talked up infancy. Sources at the meet- livered “incremental” volume its growing loyalty program. CVS’ pro- ing said more launches are and has not cannibalized from gram is already well established and has in the pipeline, including an existing items in Physicians’ a powerful beauty following. entry from Essie. Their only lineup, Jackel said. “We re- This year’s meeting attracted high-lev- fear is an influx of inferior cently launched in France and el speakers and entertainment, ranging products that could tarnish it has been a very good expe- from Pat Benatar and Michael McDonald the experience. E.l.f. Cosmetics’ vice president of sales Shawn Haynes and cofounder and rience because it encouraged at NACDS events, and Nicole Scherzinger Staying on top of technol- chief executive officer Joey Shamah. us to get back to our roots and and Train at corporate brand functions. ogy and educating women realize who we are,” she said. Jody Pinson, the new vice president, about how to use gels properly to remove by Wal-Mart and New York’s upscale As retailers look for their own fit in merchandising of beauty for Wal-Mart, any “barriers to use” is the message from Zitomer, and a treatment assortment the market, they are calling on suppli- praised the efficiency of seeing so many Red Carpet Manicure. The company be- called Dr. Marvey. “I don’t want to be a ers to give them exclusives, be it prod- beauty suppliers in just four days. lieves gel polish could eventually hit 50 ‘me too’ company,” said Alstodt. ucts, displays or promotions. As an The meeting was a final opportunity percent of sales, especially since gels are No matter what the nail product, re- example, Chris McClain, president of for NACDS to tout its upcoming Total now 55 percent of salon business. Red tailers hope the frenzy continues since Advanced Beauty Labs, said the com- Store Expo, which melds Marketplace, Carpet also is adding two treatment prod- most have allocated major real estate to pany’s Bodycology line has 16 scents, but Logistics and Pharmacy into one huge ucts to address damage, one is LED-cured. nail. CVS Pharmacy has more than 2,000 that not all of them are in all retailers. show. “We are definitely supporting it and The healthy state of at-home gels Nail HQ departments, Rite Aid has a “We’re able to segment and target store NACDS,” said Pacific World’s Carden. The was echoed at Pacific World, makers of large nail area and Wal-Mart’s new pla- clusters,” he said. meeting kicks off in Las Vegas on Aug. 10.

w03a007a.indd 7 5/2/13 6:24 PM 05022013182525 8 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013 Evander Holyfield Jr., Darian Craig, Tina Craig and Evander Holyfield Sr. beauty Avon Shareholders Praise McCoy share price dipped below $14 — nod- By MOLLY PRIOR ded to the new management team and early signs of progress, including

MOMENTS BEFORE the Avon Products Avon’s bolstered stock price. “Thank EICHNER Inc. annual shareholders meeting began you. Keep it up,” he told McCoy. FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE on Thursday morning, several attendees Avon’s share price reached a 52-week STEVE BY WWD.com/ whispered, “It’s so quiet,” and received high of $24.30 on Tuesday morning, after beauty-industry-news. a response from one staffer, “That’s how the company reported adjusted net in- we like it.” come of 26 cents a diluted share, beating PHOTOS Last year at this time, the company Wall Street analysts’ consensus estimate was fending off an un- of 14 cents a share. wanted takeover bid At the annual meet- Stars Turn Out for DKMS Gala from Coty Inc. and had ing on Thursday, share- ily of St. Louis. Tim and recently replaced its holders voted on six By JULIE NAUGHTON Maggie Murry’s four sons embattled chief execu- proposals, including one and PETE BORN all have a rare condition tive officer Andrea Jung presented by The Green called Diamond-Blackfan with Johnson & Johnson Century Equity Fund. EVANDER HOLYFIELD JR. anemia, which keeps the veteran Sheri McCoy. The proposal called for landed a knockout punch body from producing red Jung had introduced Avon to review and issue — of the emotional kind — blood cells. Bone-marrow McCoy to shareholders a report on the safety of at Wednesday night’s sev- transplants are the only last year at this meet- ingredients used in its enth annual Delete Blood cure for the disease, ing. This time around, products. Green Century Cancer DKMS Gala. and without them, Sean, McCoy commanded the said that failure to do so The model and son of Katy Patrick, Danny and Timmy podium solo — save for could result in financial heavyweight champ Evander Perry might not make it past brief comments by Avon’s and reputational risk for Holyfield, who accompanied their 20s. While the family newly named chairman Avon. “We want to turn his son to the gala, admitted has been responsible for Doug Conant. The board Sheri this company around. that he had been swabbed to recruiting 14,000 donors, appointed Conant to the McCoy This is the future. This be a bone-marrow donor in none have yet proven to be chairman post on April is where we want to go,” hopes of impressing a girl he a match for any of the boys. 26, following the resigna- a spokesman for Green was dating. The event honored tion of Fred Hassan. Century told fellow shareholders. For a teenager from Ten- Vera Wang, Leighton “Sheri has the right stuff to get the McCoy reiterated Avon’s previous nessee named Darian Craig, Meester and OPI’s job done with distinction,” Conant told response to the proposal, saying “Avon it was a lifesaving move. Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. shareholders. has a global product safety standard that Holyfield Jr. and Craig Meester appeared via His wasn’t the only praise McCoy often exceeds country-specific regula- met for the first time at video, but Wang’s present- received. During the meeting one in- tory requirements.” the event, held at Cipriani er added extra electricity vestor, who referred to 2012 as a “night- The proposal was the only one not ap- Wall Street. The Nashville to the evening: Katy Perry. mare” — particularly when Avon’s proved by shareholders. teen’s mother, Tina Craig, Perry, clad in a strap- was overcome with emo- less blue patterned Vera tion, holding on to Holyfield Wang creation, noted that Jr. for quite a long time. she was in town not only Holyfield Sr. presented the Katharina Harf and to honor Wang but also teen with an autographed Michele Scannavini to show off her new fra- boxing glove. “You’re a true grance, which is due from fighter,” he said. Coty in September. While Katharina Harf, who channeled her she kept mum on most of the details, grief after her mother’s 1991 death from she did note that her previous scents, leukemia into what is believed to be the Purr and Meow, “were very much me at world’s largest bone-marrow donor cen- that time and this new fragrance repre- ter, noted that the pairing was particularly sents where I am now.” rare, because it’s highly unusual for peo- Lindsey Vonn was on the carpet in a ple of two different ethnic backgrounds to blue patterned Derek Lam dress, not- have such close tissue-type matches. ing that it was her first time out without Harf, whose organization has been a leg brace after tearing her anterior responsible for saving more than 35,000 cruciate ligament and medial collateral lives via bone-marrow transplants, noted ligament and fracturing the upper end that her late mother is at the center of all of her shin bone. “That’s why I’m wear- of the work. “My mother remains the in- ing flats,” she noted. spiration behind our mission,” said Harf. The event, which raised about $3.7 mil- The evening also tugged at the heart- lion, also featured musical performances strings with the plight of the Murry fam- by Jill Scott and Lady Antebellum. Brand Overhaul Hampers Arden’s 3Q LOS ANGELES // JUNE 12, 2013 THE REPOSITIONING of its namesake momentum build behind the retooled brand put a crimp on Elizabeth Arden brand. In the third quarter, net sales Inc.’s third-quarter earnings. of Elizabeth Arden-branded products On Thursday, Arden reported a net ticked up 1 percent in constant curren- loss of $1.3 million, or 4 cents a diluted cy. Retail sales at the namesake brand’s share, compared with a net income of flagship doors, which now carry the $2.2 million, or 7 cents a share, in the overhauled line, have increased 22 per- year-ago period. On an adjusted basis cent in North America since the conver- — or excluding charges related to the sion, said the company. Elizabeth Arden brand repositioning The company’s net sales for the three and acquisition-related expenses — net months ended March 31 gained 10.5 per- DAN OBEGI income per diluted share was 2 cents. cent to $264.5 million, compared with DIEGO BERDAKIN JOSH BERMAN DERMSTORE During the company’s earnings call $239.3 million in the year-ago period. BEACHMINT BEACHMINT BEAUTY GROUP on Thursday, Arden chairman, presi- Excluding the unfavorable impact of dent and chief executive officer E. Scott foreign currency translation, net sales Beattie reiterated that a successful increased by 11.2 percent. In North restaging could ultimately double the America, net sales increased 9.4 percent brand’s sales. Last quarter, Beattie said for the quarter and 12.2 percent fiscal For a full list of speakers: wwd.com/ladigital the brand generates close to $1 billion in year-to-date, driven by launches from TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.5926 retail sales. Justin Bieber and Nicki Minaj. Arden TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4425 “We’re very excited and confident said Bieber is slated to release his third about the momentum we have on [the] scent this summer, and Minaj plans to in- Elizabeth Arden brand,” said Beattie, re- troduce her second fragrance. ferring to the effort as a “significant under- Internationally, net sales grew 14 SPONSORED BY: taking.” He added, “We don’t turn a brand percent in constant currency for the SPONSORED BY: like Arden around in a quarter or two.” quarter, and 11.1 percent for fiscal year- The company said it has begun to see to-date. — M.P. FLAP ATTACK: The Champagne, dresses and decadence were all fi tting at the “Gatsby” after WWD STYLE party. PAGE 10 Sole Music NEW YORK — Sophie Auster helped Ferragamo celebrate the 35th anniversary of its Vara shoe on Tuesday. The singer lent her voice to entertain an appropriately social crowd at a party at Manhattan’s McKittrick Hotel. For more, see page 10.

PHOTO BY JENNA GREENE

winner — which won four prizes, for nine awards, did not win any. Bon Appétit had gone in with including best in its category of news, Vogue won best of its class, service high hopes to score in at least one MEMO PAD sports and entertainment magazines. and fashion magazines. The competition of its six categories, which editor in The judges decided to spread was Harper’s Bazaar, O, The Oprah chief Adam Rapoport had welcomed as ASME WINNERS: “The City and the Storm,” around the prizes, allowing a number Magazine, Real Simple and Rodale’s acknowledgement of his redesign. But it New York magazine’s memorable of independent media companies, like Women’s Health. W picked up the best also ended the night empty-handed. package following Hurricane Sandy, Atlantic Media Company and Emmis photography prize for a pair of Kate Moss David Granger’s protest over the helped its editor in chief, Adam Moss, Publishing, owner of Texas Monthly, covers from March. elimination of the profi le-writing category collect another trophy — best magazine to dominate with a pair of Alexander Vogue’s category was the fi rst up, and did not seem to endear him to the of the year — at the National Magazine Calder “Elephants” each. Two smaller the award was presented to editor in judges. Esquire was shut out of the three Awards Thursday night at the Marriott digital publishers, the music site chief Anna Wintour by Allison Williams. “To categories in which it was nominated. Marquis in Manhattan. Pitchfork and the news-opinion site those of you who might go home empty- The category that emerged from that The issue, dated Nov. 12, was one of Slate, each won an award on the handed tonight, let me give you a word spat, feature writing incorporating profi le three the magazine had in contention digital side, for general excellence and of advice: Just hang in there for 25 years writing, was won by a two-part series on a against Esquire, Glamour, National commentary, respectively. Mother Jones as we’ve done, and you might get lucky,” wrongfully convicted Texas man by Pamela Geographic and Time. won a prize for a video that may have said Wintour. She thanked the late Colloff in Texas Monthly. — ERIK MAZA On Wednesday, the issue won the altered the course of the 2012 elections editorial director Alexander Liberman award for best cover, an aerial shot of a — a clandestine recording made at a and her “friend and mentor,” Advance GOODBYE COACH: Reed Krakoff isn’t the only powerless lower Manhattan days after private Mitt Romney fund-raiser where Publications chairman S.I. Newhouse Jr. one leaving Coach. Kerry Diamond, Coach the storm. the Republican candidate uttered his As much as there can be upsets Inc.’s divisional vice president of public Moss is a favorite of the judges of the now infamous “47 percent comment.” at magazine awards, GQ writer Chris relations and collaborations, is also American Society of Magazine Editors While Condé Nast dominated the Heath,who reported on a bizarre animal exiting the company. Diamond, a former — and in the more important race for nominations with 27, in the end the massacre in Zanesville, Ohio, won magazine editor, spent two years at the bragging rights, he beat perennial rival publisher walked away with just four in the highly competitive reporting leather goods brand and today will be The New Yorker, which didn’t win any of awards. Time Inc., Martha Stewart category, where he was up against two her last day. “I’m leaving to work full the fi ve Ellies it was up for, though it was Living Omnimedia Inc. and Bonnier heavyweights of long-form: Robert F. time on my restaurants and on Cherry coming off two wins at the last ceremony. each won one — design for Time Worth, who had reported on Libya for the Bombe, the magazine I’m launching with New York didn’t have the night’s magazine, best in the lifestyle category New York Times Sunday Magazine, and my friend Claudia Wu,” Diamond said in biggest haul, though. That honor went to for Martha’s fl agship, and single-issue Jon Lee Anderson, writing on the Syrian a mass e-mail she sent out Thursday National Geographic — another regular topic for Saveur, respectively. Hearst, up civil war for The New Yorker. afternoon. — MARC KARIMZADEH 10 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013 Shoe Crew eye FERRAGAMO’S Vara shoe photo booth beckoned, with turned 35 this year and to guests posing against a wall of celebrate, the brand enlisted a polychromatic florals. Partakers slew of front-row ubiquitors — were encouraged to tack their Elettra Wiedemann, Laure Heriard picture to a nearby corkboard Dubreuil, Lily Kwong and Lauren wall, which was buried in photos Remington Platt among them by the end of the evening. — to pose for photographer On the other side of the Claiborne Swanson Frank in their corridor, partygoers sunk into Lauren Remington Platt own custom versions. On the barroom’s plush charcoal- in Ferragamo. Tuesday, the company further hued banquettes, basking in the feted the launch of L’Icona, an soft glow from the Edison bulbs online project which allows suspended overhead. Posted Jessica Hart in customers to create a custom around the room were images Ferragamo. pair of Varas (or Varinas, of the 21 chosen women. Lily its ballet flat cousin), at the Aldridge bopped to the music by McKittrick Hotel in New York, her shot: all legs and shoe with where the clique of cool-girls- the model wearing nothing but turned-shoe-models gathered. a leopard fur coat and her fire- Lily Aldridge in Vases brimming with petal- red Varas. “I love the leopard, Ferragamo. pink peonies, cerise hydrangeas I love the red. It works,” and fuchsia tulips met guests off Aldridge shrugged. “It was shot the elevator — as did a handful in my backyard in Nashville in of photographers, ready to the middle of a snowstorm. I pounce and make use of the lush was freezing.” backdrop. Partygoers such as Soon Sophie Auster took to Zani Gugelmann, Jessica Hart, Jamie the stage, crooning moody Johnson, Michael Avedon, and Nicky tunes to an eager audience Hilton obliged. Genevieve Jones with ample hair-flipping plucked a tulip out of one planter, throughout her performance. using it as a prop while being “Look at these fancy-ass

Alexandra and photographed with Azealia Banks. shoes I’m wearing,” she cooed JENNA GREENE Theodora Richards, Further inside, a vintage between songs, kicking up her both in Ferragamo. train car lined one side of the studded stilettos.

space. Inside, a tricked-out — TAYLOR HARRIS PHOTOS BY

IT WAS a setting where place he considered for the Sacha Baron Cohen (mingling Dancers at the party. Jay Gatsby would have felt film’s premiere since author with his wife, Isla Fisher) and right at home. The Moët & F. Scott Fitzgerald lived “not Gabriel Byrne. Chandon Champagne was 20 miles from this place,” and Martha Stewart, who worked flowing like water, chandeliers New York City represented his the room snapping photos with were draped in feather boas, “shimmering mirage. So we a point-and-shoot camera, said flappers danced on the bar had to open this film here in she “expected more costumes” and everyone enjoyed a this city.” in the film but called it “well decadent spread of food in The over-the-top after done.” Tommy Hilfiger, whose the gilded Grand Ballroom of party, where dancers hoisted apartment in The Plaza was The Plaza hotel in New York 1921 vintage Moët & Chandon used in the film, said he for the after party for the bottles, drew the film’s entire believes the movie “will have worldwide premiere of “The cast, although leading man an effect on fashion. Gatsby Great Gatsby” on Wednesday Leonardo DiCaprio was protected has always inspired me and

ALLOCCA/STARTRAKSPHOTO.COM night. The screening was at from the masses by a number I’m happy that it’s being nearby Avery Fisher Hall at of beefy bodyguards. Other celebrated. It reconfirms that DAVE

BY Lincoln Center. celebs were more accessible, this is still a good look.” Flappin’ Around Director Baz Luhrmann said including Jake Gyllenhaal, — JEAN E. PALMIERI AND

PHOTO there was really no other Amitabh Bachchan, Joel Edgerton, ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

of people,”adding, “When he appeared on the scene in 1962, I thought it was pretty early for Hello, Allan really out-there Jewish humor, and when I learned more about MANY REMEMBER his Grammy parodies with an explicitly Jewish his personal life, I thought that Award-winning 1963 song, “Hello, sensibility that were immediately the story was a fascinating one.” Muddah, Hello, Fadduh! (A Letter and overwhelmingly successful. Cohen, who will speak From Camp),” which features the For a few years, he was at the top about the book on May 29 at the lines, “And the head coach wants of the comic world. But it didn’t Museum of Jewish Heritage no sissies/So he reads to us from last. His personal demons, which in New York, has written something called ‘Ulysses.’” led him to excesses in all kinds an interesting and engaging Allan Sherman created many of consumption — food, alcohol, biography of a complicated other indelible comic ditties. spending and sex — destroyed man. And, wisely, he quotes His first three albums, “My Son, his health. He died of what liberally from Sherman’s lyrics. the Folksinger,” “My Son, the Cohen calls “self-inflicted health Allan Sherman meets President John Who, for example, can forget his Celebrity” and “My Son, the wounds” at the early age of 48 in F. Kennedy, a fan, in March 1963. version of “The Battle Hymn of Nut,” sold a total of 3 million 1973. By then, he had turned up the Republic,” which becomes copies. The third album became a in Newsweek’s “Where Are They SHERMAN OF ROBERT PHOTO COURTESY “The Ballad of Harry Lewis,” number-one hit on the Billboard Now?” column. lower-middle-class Jewish world Goldenberg said, ‘He wouldn’t celebrating a cutter in the charts, and, at one point in August This is the first biography of that he wanted to celebrate, and have them around.’” garment district who dies in a 1963, all three albums were in the Sherman, and Cohen had access he did so with consummate skill. Cohen admits, “I was a fire and “was trampling through top 100 of the chart at to the comic writer’s Already brilliant, charming, childhood fan of him, like a lot the warehouse/Where the drapes the same time. estate. Sherman’s funny, overweight and self-hating, of Roth were stored.” Or “Sarah Now the subject early life was notably when he suddenly became Jackman,” sung to the tune of of Mark Cohen’s new disjointed; his mother, successful, Sherman found it “Frère Jacques,” which includes book, “Overweight who married multiple difficult to deal with. He married the lines, “Sarah Jackman, Sarah Sensation: The Life times, had a habit, at a woman he met at the University Jackman/How’s by you? How’s and Comedy of Allan intervals, of sending of Illinois, Dee Chackes, and by you?/ How’s your brother Sherman” (Brandeis him from Los Angeles, they had two children, Robert Bernie?/He’s a big attorney/… University Press), where she had moved, and Nancy, but, Cohen writes, How’s your cousin Ida?/Still a Sherman managed to to Chicago to live with as his friend Billy Goldenberg Freedom Rider…/Toodle-oo. parlay a considerable her parents, Leon and said, “‘They were not part of (Toodle-oo).” And then there’s “If gift for wordplay into Esther Sherman, who his life.’ Sherman loved his wife I Were a Tishman,” sung to the a career as a creator fortunately adored and ‘he adored his children,’ but The marquee at the Sands, where tune of “If I Were a Rich Man.”

and singer of song The book’s cover. him. It was their warm, he needed distance from them. Sherman performed in 1963. SPECIAL COLLECTIONS LIBRARIES, UNLV PHOTO FROM — LORNA KOSKI WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013 11 WWD.COM

Nast. “Self is leading the way. There are Fashion scoops four senior editors having babies, and our West Coast editor, Tessa Benson, just had a baby. Our deputy editor, Megan WAN TO EXIT: Joseph Wan, the longtime special, the bags are priced at $88 until Murphy, has been doing fitness segments group chief executive officer of Harvey May 12 to reflect that one in 88 children on TV with huge belly like it’s no big Nichols, is set to step down and the in the U.S. are on the autism spectrum. deal.” — MARCY MEDINA search is on for his successor, according Dee, who has an 18-year-old son to industry sources. A Harvey Nichols with autism, said she got involved SCHOOL’S IN: The Condé Nast College spokesperson said: “We are a private with the organization as a board of Fashion & Design has been open company and do not comment on member “since it was personal to me.” for business for the past two weeks, internal matters.” Hilfiger, too, has a 17-year-old autistic and was officially inaugurated with a Headhunters have already been daughter from his first marriage. Dee cocktail party on Tuesday night. Guests es hired to find Wan’s successor, according encouraged the mothers of autistic G included Lulu Guinness, Tallulah Harlech, to a separate industry source. It children to work together to fight Alice Temperley, Rachel Johnson, Kim Winser remains unclear whether Wan will autism. “You must stay together and Michelle Feeney. “We won’t teach a/Getty Ima

retire or take up another post within because together you’re unbreakable,” P you how to hem a dress,” said Nicholas the parent company, Dickson Concepts she said, quoting their three-year old Coleridge, managing director of Condé International Ltd. son’s favorite YouTube video. Nast Britain and president of Condé Wan was hired as the store’s ceo In other news, Dee is also designing a Jeff Ves Nast International, in a short speech to in 1992, shortly after Harvey Nichols higher-end handbag line of exotic skins, Jennifer Aniston guests and students. “What the college

was acquired by the Hong Kong-based retailing between $3,500 and $5,500, that Photo by will offer is a deep understanding of Dickson Concepts. He helmed the store will be sold exclusively at Harrods this how the fashion industry works.” throughout its Nineties heyday, and was fall. — LISA LOCKWOOD so many great women support me has The college building has been part of the team that helped to take it helped so much. But I also look to them purpose-built, spans five floors and is public on the London Stock Exchange HIGH TIMES: Topshop tycoon Sir Philip for advice on how to stay grounded. That located on Greek Street in London’s in 1996. The store was subsequently Green doesn’t take research lightly, takes a lot in this town.” Soho. The college offers paying delisted in 2003, and is wholly owned by employing an army of personnel to do Aniston, who has been working with students — who hail from 22 countries Dickson Concepts. everything from studying new store Ingber for eight years, said “The book is — a yearlong British Vogue fashion During the Nineties and the Aughts, locations to inspecting factories. His so Mandy. Even in the first five pages she foundation course, as well as 10-week Wan oversaw the brand’s expansion into daughter, Chloe, took a similar approach exposes a lot of herself and shares her intensive fashion courses among others. catering, namely the launch of the OXO in prepping for the U.S. debut of CJG, journey. And how loving she is as a friend Susie Forbes, the former editor of Easy Tower restaurant, bar and brasserie on her collection of shoes, jewelry and to me, you really do get that from this Living, is its principal. London’s South Bank, and the store’s scarves that will launch at the high- book. You feel like someone rooting for Harlech, who fondly recalled her retail expansion into more U.K. cities, street chain’s New York and Los Angeles you.” Of giving Ingber props, Aniston said, own days as a drama student, said her Saudi Arabia, Hong Kong, Ireland, outposts on May 30. “I tell everybody about her. To the point upcoming projects include “Spite & Indonesia and Turkey. “I’ve been in America for a while where I can barely see her anymore. I’m Malice: Rules to Filmmaking,” a feature — SAMANTHA CONTI AND JULIA NEEL sussing out the customer,” Green said lucky if I get her twice a week.” film due out in the autumn. She’s also Tuesday afternoon at the Topshop Said Danziger, “Actors are great planning to spend her time between AHEAD OF THE GAME: Count Net-a-porter in L.A.’s The Grove, as she unveiled messengers. Their hours are punishing London and Los Angeles, as she pursues among the concerns making sure those pumps punctured by spikes, chain-link and for them to say, ‘I take time to have her acting career. in New York ahead of Monday’s Met gladiator sandals and high-top sneakers, a healthy body,’ is a great way for our “But fashion will always be with me. Gala will have their weekend social among 13 footwear styles for spring. readership to understand that busy It’s been with me my whole life,” said calendar full. The online retailer’s Flitting between Los Angeles, Miami people make this is a priority and they the model-turned-actress who features brain trust of Natalie Massenet, Alison and New York, “good market research can schedule it too.” Danziger also alongside Keira Knightley in Karl Lagerfeld’s Loehnis and Lucy Yeomans will host a party for me is going to the clubs and seeing mentioned the baby boom at Condé latest short film for Chanel. — S.C. on Saturday night at the yet-to-open what the girls wear out,” she said. Omar’s, the long-gestating supper club Based on her observations, the from former André Balazs acolyte Omar platform wedges and high heels could Hernandez. Hilary Rhoda, Christopher Kane, fly off the shelves in L.A., where the Patrick Demarchelier and Olivier Theyskens car culture dispels any urge to walk are among those expected to attend. anywhere. “Girls like to wear height — WWD STAFF during the day,” she said, noting that her tallest shoe will lift the ROUND TWO: Kering and For more wearer more than five inches Parsons The New School scoops, see off the ground. for Design are teaming up Women aren’t the only for the second edition of WWD.com ones who want to tower over “Empowering Imagination,” others. Plopping himself in a small space the annual contest giving chair toward the end of her the school’s graduating presentation, Sir Philip Green B.F.A. Fashion Design students a approved the idea of branching into chance to gain an internship at one of men’s shoes. “All the men want to be the conglomerate’s brands. This year, taller,” he said. Style.com joins as a partner and the site Later that evening, there were plenty started profiling the 14 finalists from of tall women when Topshop and BAFTA Wednesday through May 15. Los Angeles threw a cocktail party at the “At Kering, we believe in nurturing store to celebrate young British talent. the next generation of talent and staying Ashley Madekwe, James Frain, Lady Victoria in close touch with the upcoming young Hervey, Jane Seymour and Louise Roe were designers,” said Laurent Claquin, head of among the Brits in attendance. “I think Kering Americas. it’s nice if we can be supportive. It’s like In addition to Claquin, contest what we do in our business with young judges include Paper Magazine’s Mickey fashion designers,” said Green, who was Boardman, Barneys New York’s Dennis busy getting to know the up-and-comers Freedman, Eco Age’s Livia Firth, Style. in his midst, including Tehmina Sunny and com’s Dirk Standen and Parsons’ Simon Patrick Dickinson, director of “Usagi-San,” Big Collins, who noted, “For these students, a short film that’s garnered awards and the opportunity to have their work is being made into a longer version. presented to such a wide audience — KHANH T.L. TRANH AND RACHEL BROWN of fashion influencers, and also gain experience working with one of Kering’s SELF’S L.A. STRETCH: Self editor in illustrious brands, is one few fashion chief Lucy Danziger made a stop in Los Business designers are afforded.” Angeles Tuesday night to cohost a book Style.com will also provide the party with Jennifer Aniston for yoga guru students with a mentoring session, and Mandy Ingber’s first book “Yogalosophy: Barneys will feature looks from the final 28 Days to the Ultimate Mind-Body 14 collections at its Madison Avenue Makeover” (Seal Press) at Soho House WWD Marketplace is the premier destination flagship. — MARC KARIMZADEH West Hollywood. “I was surprised that I was able to do it. I definitely had some for the industry’s classified and career listings. IT’S IN THE BAG: Tommy Hilfiger and his doubts,” Ingber said about taking on wife, Dee, along with Autism Speaks, a book. “The way I wrote the book is invited moms, friends and media the same way I work out: I would do Wednesday to the Lambs Club to two hours a day, no more and no less. celebrate her handbag line, Deesigns. The actual writing took about five or 800.423.3314 Dee Hilfiger will donate 100 percent six months.” Of building her brand, of the proceeds from the sale of 4,000 which has received a huge boost from handbags, valued at $280,000, to the longtime followers, friends and guests charity. The three-in-one handbags, like Aniston and Kate Beckinsale, she said, wwd.com/marketplace clutches and totes are available at shop. “People are really generous and give autismspeaks.org. As a Mother’s Day me credit [for their bodies]. To have

w03a011b.indd 11 5/2/13 8:27 PM 05022013202757 12 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 3, 2013 WWD.COM Bellevue Collection Aims to Ramp Up Luxury

signer shops inside Nordstrom. By DAVID MOIN Freeman says there’s no signifi- cant traffic synergy between the IN THE LAND of grunge, Gore- two developments, and he’s no Tex and geeks, The Bellevue doubt approaching some tenants Collection is betting big on luxury. in The Bravern, but he declined “I’ve been trying to make to identify any brands or design- the case for luxury to come to ers he’s pursuing. “I’ve started the Northwest for 20 years,” the leasing talks, and [I’m] in the says Kemper Freeman, owner final stages of coming up with a and operator of The Bellevue design. It’s too early to say who’s Collection, a 4-million-square- coming, but they’re coming.” foot, mixed-use complex 10 It’s not an easy pitch, con- miles east of Seattle across sidering Northwesterners are Lake Washington. more into hiking than haute “When I said Bellevue couture. However, shopping at Collection could be another least in Bellevue is robust and North Michigan Avenue, peo- not restricted to the moder- ple looked at me and said I was ate market or activewear. The crazy. But we’ve got the critical 285,000-square-foot Nordstrom mass. We get 22 or 23 million in Bellevue is said to be among shoppers a year. We have one the top three units in the chain, of Nordstrom’s highest-volume generating about $200 million units, among its top three, and we in annual sales, right up there have some of the best restaurants with the Chicago and Seattle in the market,” added Freeman. A rendering of The Bellevue Collection’s new luxury space showing the sky bridge over Bellevue Way. stores. The Bellevue Collection He now has plans for a $1.2 also houses a 167,000-square- billion, 2-million-square-foot accommodate a luxury anchor Q High-end hotels and high-end on our mortgages. And it’s never foot Macy’s apparel store and a expansion that he’s been pitch- such as Saks Fifth Avenue or residential units. been easier to work with tenants 52,000-square-foot Macy’s home ing to designers and high-priced Bloomingdale’s, but no such Q A sky bridge connecting the if you have a good product. store, which together generate brands. At the heart of the proj- deals seem close. Lincoln Square and Bellevue “But you could say the sim- between $60 million and $90 ect will be 200,000 square feet The sprawling Bellevue Square expansions. Both prop- plest reason is customer demand. million in annual sales. The of retailing over three levels, Collection includes the Bellevue erties will add retail. Microsoft employees are getting 200,000-square-foot J.C. Penney with stores ranging from 3,000 Square “super regional” shop- For years, Freeman wanted older and maybe want to dress up does $20 million to $22 million to 20,000 square feet for the ping center and two mixed-use to jump into the luxury game, a bit more than when they were and has fallen below the $25 mil- most part, though there could projects, Bellevue Place and and he came close just prior to younger. They’re dining out more lion peak, according to sources. be a few retailers at 45,000 Lincoln Square. The project, the Great Recession, when he and buying the best wines.” The Bellevue Collection was square feet or even as large enlarging Bellevue Square and got a permit to expand and was He implied there’s a lack of started by Freeman’s father as 70,000 square feet. Another Lincoln Square, also calls for: ready to go. “But I could smell luxury in the re- and grandfather 125,000 square feet for restau- Q Two six-level underground the end of the boom, and we just gion, even with in 1946, origi- rants is envisioned. With some parking garages. stopped,” he said. Instead, he The Shops at the nally with 37,000 rearranging of the space or ten- Q A 31-story office building with spent $42 million remodeling his Bravern, just square feet for ant departures, Freeman said, views of Mount Rainier and property with Italian limestone three long blocks a coffee shop, Bellevue Collection could also Lake Washington. floors and other enhancements. away. “In terms of a grocery and Asked why he’s proceed- luxury offering, about 14 other ing now with the expansion, there is nothing stores. At one with the country not yet recov- between here and time there was a ered from recession, Freeman San Francisco Marshall Field’s, replied that The Bellevue and Chicago.” which converted Collection is on a roll, having The Bravern to a Frederick & generated 10 percent increas- got the head start Nelson, then a es or higher for 48 months in on luxury in 2009, Kemper Liberty House, a row and reaching $853 in launching the first Freeman and ultimately got sales a square foot last year. Neiman Marcus, divided up into December was up 22.4 percent, Hermès, Burberry, 180,000 square and November was ahead 19.8 Bottega Veneta, Jimmy Choo and feet of specialty shops. When percent, he said. Red Door Spa in the Northwest, Freeman joined the operation “It’s never been easier to ar- among a handful of other luxury in 1966, “My dad told me that my range financing at the lowest retailers there. The Bellevue job was to double the size of the rates if you have great credit Collection has a smattering of center. I spent 14 years doing it, and a great financial record,” luxury limited to Burberry, Hugo doubling it to 1 million square Freeman added, giving further Boss, Vince, Lacoste, Kate Spade, feet from 500,000.” With this lat- The center court shopping inside The Bellevue Collection. cause for green-lighting the Tiffany, Façonnable, Michael est expansion project, he’s still project. “We have low leverage Kors, The North Face and de- on the job.

find “two lovely Chippendale-style Hope Gimbel Solinger, Lorry Newhouse to be Honored children’s chairs beautifully cov- ered by Mario Buatta — a perfect fit good now. It’s wearable, and I for my young granddaughter.” By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG think it’s pretty.” Solinger, whose uptown apart- Solinger, a mother of two, has ar- ment is adorned with paintings by FORTY YEARS AFTER she first helped ranged for her grandson Nicholas Léger, Chagall and Picasso, also has to get the Posh benefit sale up and run- Stern, who like his father Robert is a sharp eye, thanks in part to her ning, Hope Gimbel Solinger will be an architect, to accept her award. ex-husband David, who served as honored tonight by its beneficiary, In her 40 years of service, the event the Whitney Museum of Art’s presi- Lighthouse International. has evolved from selling a few hun- dent. She is also the kind of woman Designer Lorry Newhouse; dred garments to “tens of thou- who still values the importance of TheRealReal’s founder, Julie Wainwright, sands” of apparel pieces, pairs of appearances. When a friend recent- and celebrity chef Alex Hitz will also be shoes and accessories. This time ly started to place a call for a phone feted with visionary awards at the dinner around, Oscar de la Renta ball- interview, she told him to wait to at 583 Park Avenue in New York. gowns and Valentino and Christian give her time to apply lipstick. At 98, Solinger’s honor melds together Dior handbags will be among the As for whether Posh organiz- two of her lifelong interests — fashion and many designer labels in the mix. ers and volunteers get first dibs, philanthropy. Her father, Bernard, started Kim Baker and Broadway musi- Solinger said those days are long Saks Fifth Avenue and Gimbels. And her cal star Benay Venuta first got the Hope Gimbel Solinger, Benay Venuta and Kim Baker Campbell. gone and her non-Posh shopping mother, Alva, was a founder and board sale going with Solinger. The Posh leads to one place. “I only shop at member of Lighthouse. As for whether Sale has since raised millions to help York benefits is the scale and scope of Saks,” she said. her parents ever gave her fashion advice those with vision loss. Regarding the the Posh Sale. Also, the quality of every- “Once I was looking for something for to live by, she said, “My father was busy event’s long-standing appeal, Solinger thing for sale is the very best. The do- one of my daughters and Saks didn’t have doing other work. My mother helped us said, “People love getting something they nations from some of the best-heeled la- it. I told a friend, ‘I can’t go into Bergdorf select our clothing. She liked things that love or finding a good buy. And it’s very dies in New York City are amazing, from Goodman,’ and she said, ‘Of course you were becoming and fashionable.” affordable and it’s good for charity.” Prada bags to Chanel suits and Hermès can. Just say you’re me,’” Solinger said. Sophie Gimbel (who married Newhouse, the recipient of the belts, to name a few. It is quite stagger- “I noticed people were looking at me Solinger’s uncle, Adam) was a personal Fashion Visionary award, first got in- ing,” said Newhouse. funny when I said I was Nancy. Then a favorite. “She was lovely, very bright and volved with the sale through Hamish Although the Posh Sale no longer in- salesman said, ‘I happen to know you’re very talented,” Solinger said before com- Bowles and Amy Fine Collins. “What cludes furniture, Newhouse said she was no more Nancy than I am. And I hope she menting on the current scene.“It’s quite sets this event apart from other New once lucky enough at a previous sale to spends her life in prison.’”