PLUS: DESIGNERS ARE GOING FOR GOLD FOR FALL, WITH THE SHINY STUFF ALL OPEN HOUSE OVER THE RUNWAYS. EYE: BARNEYS NEW YORK CHIEF MARK LEE THROWS A BASH AT HOME FOR KATIE HOLMES AND HER HOLMES & YANG LINE. SEE STYLE, PAGE 8

JAPAN NUCLEAR CRISIS Fashion Firms Shift Workers Out of Tokyo

By WWD STAFF FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 FASHION COMPANIES BEGAN to leave Tokyo WWD Thursday, moving westward to Osaka amid the threat of radioactive fallout, widening blackouts and diminishing food supplies. Six days after a massive earthquake and tsu- nami hit Japan, damaging the Fukushima nucle- ar plant 124 miles northeast of the capital city, Chanel was handing out iodine tablets to work- ers and Hennes & Mauritz and PPR temporarily relocated offi ces. And some brands stopped giv- ing updates on their operations in the country. Ordinarily accessible, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., Burberry and Paul Smith, as well as several other fi rms, did not respond to requests for comment Thursday. Procter & Gamble Co. issued a state- ment saying all its employees were safe, but a spokeswoman declined to say whether they had been instructed to leave Tokyo. Many fi rms in the capital have already given their employees the green light to work remotely, given rolling blackouts on the edges of the city and erratic train service. Japan’s Energy and Trade Ministry warned Thursday that there was a risk of a widespread blackout in the Tokyo area. That prompted many to leave work and stores to close their doors earlier than usual. Although plenty of people decided to stay put and certain food items were reappearing in su- Culture permarkets, conditions still hadn’t returned to normal. The Japanese government has pleaded with Tokyo residents to not hoard food since it ex- acerbates a dire shortage in areas most affected by the earthquake and tsunami, which claimed more than 10,000 lives. Club SEE PAGE 8 Estée Lauder is aiming to celebrate the beauty of women of IN WWD TODAY all races with two new skin care launches and a new ad campaign featuring spokesmodels Joan Apparel Prices Fall PAGE 6 FINANCIAL: Apparel prices fell sharply in Smalls, Liu Wen and Constance February, a sign retailers aren’t able to Jablonski. Idealist Even Skintone pass on higher raw materials costs Illuminator and Idealist Cooling to consumers.

Eye Illuminator launch in June, as Vanessa Seward to Exit Azzaro PAGE 2 does the new advertising. FASHION: The designer is said to be For more, see Style, page 6. leaving the French fashion house in what is claimed to be an amicable split.

Casual Male Rolls Out Prototype PAGE 7 MEN’S: The big and tall retailer plans aggressive expansion of its new Destination XL format, with plans to open 10 to 14 new

units this year. L

PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA 2 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2011 WWD.COM Seward Said Exiting Azzaro Prada Makes Return to Berlin By MILES SOCHA By MELISSA DRIER continuous stretch of windows on both fl oors, further accentuated by new generation steel- PARIS — Vanessa Seward, the designer who helped put Azzaro back on the BERLIN — After an absence of more than and-glass shelving. The store houses women’s fashion radar, is parting ways with the Paris-based house, WWD has learned. eight years, Prada has opened a freestand- and men’s wear, bags, accessories and footwear. Seward joined the company in 2002 as fi rst assistant to the founding de- ing store on Berlin’s main luxury shopping Prada closed its first Berlin store in signer, Loris Azzaro. Following his death a year later, Seward was named stretch, Kurfürstendamm. early 2003 when the lease ran out, arguing creative director, relaunching and tweaking its glamorous eveningwear, The luxury brand’s new retail home the 2,370-square-foot space just a few doors including such iconic styles as the Three Rings dress. here is almost literally that. The two-fl oor, down from the current address was too small Azzaro is expected to reveal Seward’s departure as early as today, char- 5,385-square-foot store in a late 19th cen- to effectively present the full collections. acterizing it as an amicable parting that leaves the company in a solid tury landmark building feels like a grand, “While we were missing a freestanding fi nancial position to pursue its development. rambling apartment. The women’s wear presence on Ku’damm, we were present [in It is understood Azzaro will name Seward’s successor next month. department at the back of the second fl oor, Berlin] at wholesale,” Suhl said. “And it’s a A vivacious brunette, Seward cooked up a slew of collaborations during her fl ourishing business.” tenure, even allowing customers to personalize dresses on the company’s Web Store openings “are always site. Prior to Azzaro, Seward had design stints at Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. a question of priority. Not that The designer’s departure comes on the heels of two management Germany is not a priority or an im- changes last year. portant market. Germany is a very Sagra Maceira de Rosen, managing director of the luxury and retail division wealthy country and especially im- of Reig Capital, Azzaro’s parent company, left the company, as did Reig Capital’s portant in terms of image,” he said. chief executive offi cer José Caireta. The team at Azzaro had been a tight one, and But that wealth is well distributed Seward and Maceira de Rosen remain close friends, according to industry sources. throughout the country, he pointed Founded in 1962, Azzaro quickly became known for body-hugging out, and the structure of different gowns worn by the likes of Marisa Berenson and Sophia Loren. Over the federal states or provinces means last decade, stars including Nicole Kidman and Penélope Cruz have worn there are many smaller cities Azzaro on the red carpet. where “we don’t — and won’t — But the brand is probably best known for its men’s fragrances, pro- have our own stores.” duced by Groupe Clarins, which owned the brand from 1995 until 2002. The Prada unit in Berlin. As a result, the lion’s share — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SAMANTHA CONTI of Prada’s business in Germany, which he said generates about 5 for example, is comprised of several rooms percent of group sales worldwide, remains or salons. “We enhanced what we found,” dominated by wholesale. “Because of the city Nike Shares Slip on Earnings said chief operating offi cer Sebastian Suhl, structure, it’s one of the few markets, along who described the Berlin door as the latest with Italy and the U.S., where wholesale is By ARNOLD J. KARR als. The rest was attributable to air evolution of Prada’s signature retail design so important,” he said. Elsewhere, Prada freight costs, partially mitigated by concept featuring pastel green walls, beige has been on a retail expansion course. Suhl AN 11 PERCENT pickup in future an increase in its direct-to-consum- velvet and ivory Saffi ano leather. said retail has grown to more than 70 percent orders couldn’t keep shares of Nike er businesses. “But we don’t cookie-cutter our fl agships. of total sales worldwide, which exceeded 2 Inc. from stumbling in after-hours But Nike, which has “strategical- There are always different elements,” he said. billion euros, or $2.8 billion at current ex- trading Thursday after the sporting ly” raised prices in recent months, In Berlin, it’s the daylight, provided by an almost change, in the fi scal year ended Jan. 31. goods giant reported third-quarter according to Charlie Denson, presi- sales and profi ts that fell short of dent of Nike Brand, will do so in a analysts’ consensus estimates. more across-the-board fashion in In the three months ended Feb. the months ahead. “The bigger mag- Arcapita Eyeing Deals Beyond J. Jill 28, the Beaverton, Ore.-based fi rm nitude will be in the second half ” reported net income of $523 mil- of its next fi scal year, covering the By DAVID MOIN Jill has done well under Golden Gate,” which lion, or $1.08 a diluted share, up 5.2 spring and summer seasons, he said. will remain a minority shareholder in the percent from the $497 million, or The company’s apparel business ARCAPITA IS LOOKING to build its portfo- company. “There haven’t been any issues with $1.01, reported in the third quarter for the quarter rose 11.6 percent to lio of fashion and retail fi rms beyond J. Jill. lack of capital.” The source also said that J. for fi scal 2010. Revenues rose 7.3 $1.29 billion and was up a robust The private equity and venture capital Jill, with an estimated volume between $400 percent to $5.08 billion from $4.73 17.9 percent, to $481 million from fi rm late Wednesday disclosed it was buy- million to $450 million, is profi table. billion in last year’s quarter. $408 million, in North America, a ing a majority stake in J. Jill from Golden Before Golden Gate, J. Jill was owned by The results, reported after the percentage jump surpassed only by Gate Capital, but one fi nancial source said The Talbots Inc., which struggled with the close of the equity markets Thursday, the company business in Greater Thursday, “They’re still actively looking in business. “J. Jill got rid of the harness of fell short of consensus estimates, China, where sales rose 31.4 per- the sector. They’re active and aggressive in Talbots and has since been performing much which projected EPS of $1.11 and cent to $201 million. Apparel sales the consumer sector in general.” better,” said one fashion source. revenues of $5.17 billion. The dual in Western Europe were down 2 Arcapita owns Bijoux Terner, an accesso- “We look forward to working closely with misses sent Nike shares down more percent, to $294 million, and off 9.3 ries retail business, and Caribou Coffee. The Paula and her team to continue their success than 6 percent in after-hours trading percent in Japan, to $78 million. fi rm previously owned Loehmann’s, which it and help the company expand its current op- following an increase of 0.7 percent The jump in apparel sales lifted sold to Istithmar, as well as Church’s Chicken erations and open new store locations,” said to $85.41 earlier in the day. their share of overall revenues to and Yakima, a supplier of vehicle racks for Scott Buschmann, a principal of Arcapita. Gross margin declined to 45.8 25.5 percent, 1 percent more than bicycles, boats and ski equipment. Arcapita is “J . Jill occupies a distinct space in women’s percent of sales during the quarter the 24.5 percent share registered wholly owned by the Bahrain-based Arcapita branded apparel. We believe that the compa- from 46.9 percent in the third quar- during last year’s third quarter. Bank and has offi ces in Atlanta, London, ny’s strong brand equity, deep customer loyal- ter of last year. The decline refl ected Global footwear sales under the Bahrain and Singapore. ty and proven multichannel strategy position higher costs for product and freight Nike brand were up 7.6 percent to The acquisition of J. Jill should close it extremely well for continued expansion.” and a shift to direct distribution from $2.86 billion, representing 56.3 per- within a few weeks and is not expected to Buschmann would not elaborate on any licensing by Converse in the U.K. cent of the total. trigger significant changes to the brand’s plans for J. Jill, or discuss details of the ac- Don Blair, chief fi nancial offi cer, For the nine months, net income strategy or management, at least anytime quisition. The announcement Wednesday told analysts on the company earn- rose 11.1 percent to $1.54 billion, soon, sources said. J. Jill will continue to be night confi rmed WWD reports this week that ings call that about two-thirds of or $3.16 a diluted share, from $1.39 led by president and chief executive offi cer Golden Gate was selling off J. Jill. the downward pressure on margins billion, or $2.81. Revenues were Paula Bennett and the current management Bank of America Merrill Lynch acted as came from higher product costs, up 8.3 percent to $15.1 billion from team. “This shouldn’t really mean much of fi nancial adviser to J. Jill on the sale, and the majority of those from materi- $13.94 billion. anything,” said a source close to the deal. “J . Kirkland & Ellis LLP acted as legal adviser.

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TripTalk about a golden opportunity. Designers decked their fall collections in all sorts of the Jason Wu shiny stuff, from sequined and foil dresses to even a gleaming Space Age hoodie. WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2011 5 WWD.COM

Gareth Pugh Moschino

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PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND ROBERT MITRA 5x7

6 WWD friday, march 18, 2011

ECONOMY Retailers Scale Back Apparel Price Hikes

By KRISTI ELLIS as their willingness to up the ante for more discretionary fashion purchases. ConSumERS CopIng with higher fuel and food prices Brian Bethune, chief u.S. economist at IHS global were in no mood to deal with higher apparel prices in Insight, expects to see some “margin compression” at retail. Rising fuel costs have February. “When you get into a cycle where there are some hindered retailers’ Economists and analysts said retailers may have pressures on costs, not just in apparel, but across all attempts to raise prices. tested the waters with apparel price hikes in January industries, manufacturers try to see what they can do to offset soaring raw materials prices, but met resis- to offset the costs and raise prices by testing the mar- tance from consumers and pulled back, as evidenced ket,” said Bethune. “If they lose market share, they pull consumers are not will- by an unexpected drop in apparel prices in February, back,” adding the February index indicates that that ing to absorb the price according to a closely watched government index re- may have been the pattern. increases, as evidenced by leased Thursday. This preliminary sign of shoppers’ He said discounters such as Wal-mart Stores Inc. and the transition from a 1 per- refusal to accept higher prices currently working their Target Corp. will face challenges in “sustaining price cent growth in apparel prices in way through the supply chain only adds to the already increases so their margins will be under pressure” from January to the February pullback. high pressures on gross margins confronting retailers rising cotton prices. Who is absorbing the higher raw and wholesalers. “The bottom line is we remain still in a relatively materials costs? Retail apparel prices fell in February in the men’s weak environment in terms of consumer demand and a “I wouldn’t be surprised if all par- and women’s apparel categories compared with a month lot of retailers are finding it difficult to pass along price ties — from manufacturers to retailers ago, despite inflationary pressure further down the sup- increases, particularly when they have competitors who — are bearing the brunt of sharply higher ply chain from historically high cotton prices, the Labor they are trying to keep a leg up on,” said Frank Badillo, costs for raw materials used in the production senior economist at of apparel,” Lonski said. Kantar Retail, part of Retailers are “getting hit on both ends — higher costs the Kantar group, the and less sales as people spend more at the gas tank and consulting arm of Wpp at the grocery store,” said Andrew Fitzpatrick, director plc, a London-based of investments at Hinsdale Associates. marketing and commu- “I think from a cost structure standpoint, rising pric- nications firm. “They es of raw materials and inputs used to make the goods are looking for ways to are really starting to be felt by retailers and the key is minimize the effects [of can retailers offset them,” Fitzpatrick said. “That is the higher commodity pric- challenge and that is going to be more on a case-by-case es and transportation basis and it is going to be difficult.” costs]. They are trying to He said he expects winners and losers, hinging on squeeze their suppliers how each company manages their product lines, inven- and everyone is taking tories and pricing structures. margin hits.” Still, Fitzpatrick said the outlook remains good for re- Badillo said some of tailers because consumer spending is “ticking upwards” the adjustments retailers and “retailers are doing a better job managing inventories.” are making, such as using The price pressures were evident among fashion re- more blends in apparel, tailers and wholesalers checking in with quarterly earn- will “limit the price in- ings reports on Thursday. creases that get passed Lululemon Athletica Inc. reported a 92.5 percent along to consumers.” jump in fourth-quarter profits on a 52.8 percent in-

john aquino “But I do expect in crease in sales, but anticipates gross margin erosion of the longer run, as re- about 150 basis points during the first half of the new tailers and suppliers fiscal year, followed by a 200 to 225 basis point decline photo by exhaust everything they in the third quarter. Consumers may eventually face higher costs at retail because of rising commodity costs. do in the short term, to Despite reporting the rise in profits to $54.8 million see some cost pressure on sales that rose 52.8 percent to $245.4 million in the Department said in its Consumer price Index. start to trickle down to consumers to a greater extent quarter, Lululemon Athletica Inc. said it sees margin Apparel brands and textile producers are experienc- than in the past,” Badillo said. pressure ahead. ing inflationary pressures due to soaring cotton prices Historically, surges in commodity prices have rarely “material costs, labor and freight increases are all im- as well as spikes in other commodity prices, such as led to inflationary pressure in apparel prices for con- pacting our gross margins,” Lululemon chief executive of- wool and synthetic fibers, but retailers appear to have sumers because retailers and brands have been able ficer Christine Day told WWD. “material costs are having pulled back from a 1 percent increase in apparel prices to shift their apparel production to new low-cost coun- the most impact, followed by labor and freight. Due to the in January, economists said. tries, he said. highly technical nature of our products, we are not as im- Retail apparel prices fell 0.9 percent in February not so today, Badillo added. Retailers and apparel pacted by cotton’s increase as some of the other specialty compared with a month ago, following the increase in brands have essentially run out of low-cost suppliers to retail companies. However, we continue to see increased January. Both women’s and men’s apparel prices declined offset spiraling raw materials prices and have to make costs out of Asia along with the rest of our industry.” 1.3 percent month-to-month and both were down com- other adjustments to minimize the impact. Fourth-quarter gross margin was 58.5 percent of pared with a year earlier. Women’s retail apparel prices Calling Thursday’s CpI report a “surprise” and sales. in February were down 0.6 percent compared with a year “testimony to the resistances by consumers to price Cato Corp. saw its fourth-quarter profits grow 8.4 per- earlier, while men’s apparel prices declined 1.1 percent. hikes,” John Lonski, chief economist at moody’s Capital cent, it said Thursday, but acknowledged it “expects rising Higher gasoline and food prices drove up the prices for markets group, said, “For the longest period of time we raw material and freight costs to have a negative effect” on all goods and services in February by 0.5 percent, accord- have been bracing for price hikes in apparel products 2011 performance, primarily in the back half of the year. ing to the CpI, and increases in those commodities are un- as a means of compensating for much costlier cotton.” — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM doubtedly taking a toll on consumers’ pocketbooks as well Lonski said the CpI numbers may be indicating that ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

Tag Heuer’s Las Vegas store is its Tag Heuer Opens Las Vegas Flagship first North American flagship. By RoBERTA CoRREIA CityCenter, the most upscale shopping mal countertop retail formula, creating center that has redefined the Las Vegas a more open space that allows custom- TAg HEuER IS toasting a few mile- shopping experience.” ers to interact easily with the product. stones in 2011. The Swiss luxury watch Designed by architect Eric Carlson, In addition to an assortment of Tag brand is not only opening its first who also collaborated with the com- Heuer timepieces, several of the dis- north American flagship in Las Vegas, pany on its paris and London stores, plays exhibit pieces from the compa- but also marking 150 years as a sponsor the boutique’s goal is to offer custom- ny’s motor-racing history that includes of motor racing. ers the ultimate brand experience in a the brand’s role as official timekeeper Tag’s new 800-square-foot flag- contemporary environment. for the Formula 1 and Indianapolis ship opened Wednesday in Crystals at “The boutique uses the abundance 500 races and sponsorship of Formula CityCenter, also home to prada, gucci of natural light that infuses Crystals 1 team Vodafone mcLaren mercedes. and the largest Louis Vuitton store in at CityCenter to create the same glow- There’s also a selection of fashion and north America. from-within effect that is the center’s lifestyle items for sale, including vin- “We conceived our first north signature,” Babin said. “The boutique tage stainless steel cuff links, eyewear American store to evoke the energy of provides an interactive experience that and the brand’s exclusive luxury mo- one of the world’s most exciting cities,” allows customers to engage with the full bile device, meridiist. said Jean-Christophe Babin, worldwide scope of the brand in an accessible way.” Tag Heuer operates more than 100 president and chief executive officer The timepiece displays are integrat- freestanding boutiques worldwide, in- eric jamison of the watch firm. “We also wanted to ed into the store’s architecture and cus- cluding stores in paris, Kuala Lumpur,

take advantage of being in Crystals at tomized wall niches, instead of the for- Shanghai and Sydney. photo by WWD friday, march 18, 2011 7 WWD.COM Executive Moves Casual Male Adding 10 to 14 DXL Units For DFS Group By JEAN E. PALMIERI and ARNOLD J. KARR company cited markdowns associated with store closures for DFs GROuP is expected to reveal its decrease in gross margin to 45.4 percent of sales from 46.4 today that it is promoting its presi- CAsuAL MALE Is moving into full rollout mode with its percent in the year-ago period. dent of store operations, Michael Destination XL store concept. In guidance for 2011, the company projected a same-store schriver, to group president of stores In reporting nearly a 50 percent jump in profits in the fourth sales increase of between 4 and 4.5 percent with an expansion and business development, and bring- quarter, the Canton, Mass.-based men’s big and ing in Philippe schaus, Louis Vuitton tall retailer said it will add 10 to 14 DXL stores executive vice president, as group this year. The superstore concept, which brings to- president of merchandising and mar- gether all the company’s retail businesses under keting, WWD has learned. one roof, kicked off with a four-unit test last year. The moves are part of an overall “We now have two quarters of results on the restructuring of the senior manage- four stores and are pleased that all four have ment team at the Hong Kong luxury met their expectations,” said David Levin, chief retailer group, which is a division of executive officer. “We collapsed two to three LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. stores in each market to open the new concept, schriver has been with DFs since and already the stores are generating sales of 1998, when he joined the company as 20 percent more than the total of the closed vice president and general merchan- stores.” He said customers at a DXL store typi- dise manager of DFs Hawaii after 20 cally spend 33 percent more than those at a years at R.H. Macy & Co. in the u.s. Casual Male unit. He was named president of world- “We expect the stores to mature in three wide store operations in 2008. schaus, years and expect EBITDA [earnings before in- meanwhile, was named president of terest, taxes, depreciation and amortization] Louis Vuitton Europe in 2003, and pro- margins to approximate 30 percent and a return moted to senior vice president, inter- on investment payback in less than two years,” national, in 2006 before assuming his he added. most recent role in 2009. He will start For 2012, the plan is to open 15 to 20 addi- at DFs in August. tional DXL units and by 2015, the company ex- Casual Male’s The DFs moves also impact the Destination XL concept. pects to have at least 75 to 100 units in opera- haraway bryan Photo by reporting structure. Harold Brooks, tion, Levin said. president of DFs merchandising, and Dennis Hernreich, executive vice president, Jim Beighley, senior vice president of chief operating officer and chief financial officer, said to ac- of gross margin to between 46.6 and 47.1 percent from the 2010 marketing and market development, commodate the DXL stores, the company will close between 15 level of 45.8 percent. Earnings are projected to land between will report to schaus, while senior and 20 other units this year. In 2010, he said, DXL accounted 40 cents and 45 cents a diluted share, above analysts’ prelimi- vice president of business develop- for just over 1 percent of the company’s total sales, a figure that nary estimates of 39 cents, while sales are seen growing to be- ment Christian strang will now report should jump to 5 percent this year. tween $405 million and $410 million, covering the analysts’ pro- to schriver. He previously reported to For the fourth quarter ended Jan. 29, the retailer generated jection of $406.5 million. DFs chairman and chief executive of- net income of $5.3 million, or 11 cents a diluted share, 1 cent The bullish guidance helped lift shares of Casual Male 8 ficer Ed Brennan. shy of the analysts’ consensus estimate of 12 cents. Profits were cents, or 1.8 percent, to $4.43 in Nasdaq trading Thursday. DFs Group operates more than 200 49.9 percent above the $3.6 million, or 8 cents, reported in the For the full year, net income more than doubled to $15.4 mil- stores at airports in the Asia-Pacific final quarter of 2009. lion, or 32 cents a diluted share, from $6.1 million, or 14 cents. region, North America, India and sales rose 0.7 percent, to $111.5 million from $110.7 million sales fell 0.4 percent, to $393.6 million from $395.2 million, but Abu Dhabi, as well as 13 DFs Galleria a year ago, and were up 2.9 percent on a same-store basis. The were up 1.5 percent on a comparable-store basis. stores in the Asia-Pacific region.

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Question about your To place an “ONLINE ONLY” Subscription? classified ad, log into WWDCAREERS.com Call 1-800-289-0273 and place your ad any time 8 WWD friday, march 18, 2011 WWD.COM Brands Move Workers Out of Tokyo

{Continued from page one} brand’s 40 stores in Japan were badly af- H&M shuttered all its Despite the widening nuclear crisis, fected by the earthquakes. Fifteen doors stores in the Kanto region global stock markets regained much of have been closed until further notice. surrounding Tokyo. their balance after three days of hefty de- “It was a natural disaster, an act of clines. The Nikkei 225 dipped 1.4 percent God, something completely out of our in Tokyo, but the DAX gained 2.2 percent control, and we just have to deal with it, in Frankfurt and the FTSE 100 rose 1.8 per- and find new solutions,” Montague said. cent in London. On Wall Street, the S&P “Our most immediate efforts are focused Retail Index slipped 0.72 points to 494.11 as on ensuring that our staff is safe.” the Dow Jones Industrial Average gained Loewe decided not to cancel the 1.4 percent, or 161.29 points, to 11,744.59. opening Wednesday of a shop-in-shop at Even as stocks stabilized and the fears Daimaru in Osaka, where LVMH has set for the global luxury market waned upon up a crisis office to coordinate the efforts closer analysis, there were reminders that of its brands in the country. it will be some time before life gets back to Some of Shiseido’s office buildings anything approximating normal in Japan. sustained cracks and other damage from “Chanel decided to close stores and the earthquake. Operations at the com- offices in the affected areas [which in- pany’s Kuki factory, which produces hair clude Tokyo],” the brand said. “Staff ei- products, have been suspended for two ther stay home and follow instructions weeks for repair, inspection and other to remain indoors or temporarily leave works after a water leak was found. the area. For those who prefer to leave “However, our supply of merchandise will the affected regions, Chanel is providing continue as normal for some time since the financial and logistical assistance. For stock at Kuki factory was intact (this includes staff who prefer to stay, the company has delays in physical distribution because of is- distributed iodine tablets and continues sues with transportation infrastructure),” the to deliver them for family members.” H&M shuttered all its stores in the Kanto region surrounding Tokyo and offered to help relocate all its 800 em- [The tsunami] was ployees and their family members to the Kansai region surrounding Osaka. As of a natural disaster, an Thursday night, only about 60 people, in- cluding family members, had chosen to act of God, something move, said a spokeswoman. Most opted to stay closer to their home base in Tokyo. John Ermatinger, president of Gap completely out of our Inc.’s Asia-Pacific business, was in the firm’s Tokyo office and “monitoring the control, and we just situation closely,” according to a spokes- woman. Seventeen of Gap’s 130 stores in have to deal with it, and the country were closed Thursday due to damage, potential blackouts, unreliable public transportation or the decision of a find new solutions. shopping center to close its doors. However, the company didn’t respond — LISA MONTAGUE, LOEWE to requests for comment later in the day that a March 29 fashion show in Tokyo Fukushima nuclear plant to evacuate or “Mentally it’s just not comfortable any- had been canceled. company stated, adding no damage has been take shelter indoors. That’s a much more more,” the H&M spokeswoman agreed. A PPR spokeswoman said about 44 found in any other of its factories. dire reading of the situation than that of- Tokyo Electric Power Co. had already employees and their families were evacu- More and more foreigners appeared fered by the Japanese government, which initiated rolling blackouts in the outly- ated from the Sendai area to a safe haven to be fleeing the city and opting to either has set the evacuation/shelter area at ing parts of the city as of Monday to help in Osaka, where the company arranged return to their home countries or relocate about 19 miles around the plant. relieve a power shortage. That strategy temporary headquarters. Employees were to other parts of Japan. On Thursday, the Fashion editor and stylist Misha appeared to be working but a cold front given the option to leave Tokyo. Most of British Embassy told its citizens that they Janette said she and a friend decided prompted many people to turn on their the PPR-controlled stores and offices in should consider leaving Tokyo — not be- Tuesday to leave Tokyo and go to a friend’s heating units and consumption rose again. Greater Tokyo/Kanto area were to remain cause of potential radiation risk from the house in the mountains outside Kyoto. She While many have left the city, not closed until today. The company has 2,000 nuclear plant but because of the power stood the entire journey on a packed train. everyone is moving out. Much of the employees in Japan, working for brands and food shortage in the city. The American She’d had enough of the aftershocks and Western media’s coverage of the disaster from Puma to Stella McCartney. Embassy has given U.S. government employ- empty supermarket shelves. has described it in apocalyptic terms, but Lisa Montague, chief executive officer ees the opportunity to leave the country. “ Yo u can’t sleep, you can’t get any that sense of panic hasn’t gripped many of Loewe, which is owned by LVMH Moët On Wednesday, Washington warned work done. You’re stuck to the news all Japanese people in the same way. Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said four of the Americans within 50 miles of the day,” she said of life in the capital. “I personally feel things are calm- ing down in that the stores are well- stocked and many of the TV stations are People from Minamisoma resuming their normal programs,” said wait for a bus to transport a Japanese magazine editor in Tokyo, them to Sanjo, Niigata. who requested anonymity. “Having lived as an ex-pat for most of my childhood [I know] you need to get out of the country if there’s any danger, no matter what the scale. So I totally understand all the for- eigners leaving. But I’m hopeful.” And many businesses pressed on. Alberto Palatchi, ceo of Pronovias, inked a deal Tuesday with Japan-based wedding organizer Tutu Wedding Group to open nine Pronovias franchise stores in Japan by June 30. He called the agreement “a declaration of interest on their part and a vote of confi- dence on mine. Things will get better there.”

es The industry has been giving in cash AG

m and kind, but the scope of the disaster i remains daunting. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. plans to send 95 tons of water, acrylic Getty A blankets, tents, warm clothes, fleece, por- table toilets, flashlights and batteries. PPR donated 2 millions euros, or $2.8 himbun vi s

hi million at current exchange, to relief ef- A forts, while L’Oréal’s chairman and ceo As

he Jean-Paul Agon gave 100 million yen, or t $1.2 million, with his executive commit- tee. Shiseido also gave $100 million yen

Photo by to aid victims of the earthquake. ALT’S ALTERNATIVE MEDIA: Emmanuelle Alt unveils her fi rst issue of WWDSTYLE French Vogue. PAGE 2. PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA

Emperor’s New Clothes Original Penguin, founded in 1955, is getting into fragrance. SEE PAGE 7.

ROAD BLOCK China’s Great Wall for Beauty Companies By MOLLY PRIOR The regulations apply to all beauty of new products to China from outside lion consumers to its middle income and companies that import products manu- beauty fi rms. affl uent class. “This is roughly the same TALK OF HOW to do business in China factured outside of China and also to any And the stakes for getting it right are number as there are in the entire U.S. has dominated industry gatherings and “special-use” products — namely, hair huge. During the company’s presenta- today,” said Moeller. earnings calls in recent months. dyes, skin whiteners, sunscreen and anti- tion at the annual Consumer Analyst For P&G — the largest consumer Beauty chief executives are increasing- aging products — manufactured in China. Group of New York conference, held late products company in China, according ly voicing their concern over China’s strin- Nearly one year after their introduc- last month, Procter & Gamble Co. chief to the fi rm — Greater China accounts for gent revisions to its Cosmetics Hygienic tion, beauty fi rms continue to work to un- financial executive Jon Moeller cited nearly $5 billion in sales, said Moeller. Management Rules, which the State Food tangle the rules, and struggle with how a study released in November by the During the same conference, Estée and Drug Administration of China began best to comply with them. The confusion Boston Consulting Group that states over Lauder Cos. Inc. president and chief formally implementing in April. has dramatically slowed the introduction the next decade, China will add 270 mil- {Continued on page 7} 2 WWDSTYLE friday, march 18, 2011 media Alt’s Alternative Take on Vogue PARIS — “It’s simple fashion. Yo u can see lowed by several pages of pure text. “It’s im- “Classic doesn’t mean boring.” the clothes perfectly.” portant to have something to read,” she said. Sources said Roitfeld courted contro- Emmanuelle Alt, dressed in a black The May issue, which coincides with versy, and riled advertisers, with some sweater and the skinniest jeans imagin- the Cannes Film Festival, will have a recent jewelry shoots, notably from the able, is excitedly showing off fashion lay- focus on French cinema, a cultural realm holiday issue guest edited by Tom Ford, outs from the April issue of French Vogue, to which Alt plans to devote considerable which included naked and wrinkled se- her first as editor in chief of the Condé Nast attention going forward. niors in amorous scenarios. France title. The issue hits newsstands on Ye t Alt, the magazine’s fashion editor Alt steered clear of talk about the March 25 and ushers in expanded beauty for the past 10 years and a career stylist, Roitfeld era, which ended last December coverage showcased in the magazine’s well; noted the title’s bread and butter will not with her stepping down amidst sugges- Isabeli less-cluttered layouts and typography; a change. “I want the Vogue to become very tions of a coup d’état. Fontana, stronger commitment to feature articles; a feminine. Women are very interested in Alt stressed she arrives at a healthy shot by clutch of new freelance sittings editors, and fashion and beauty,” she said. title with a strong image, readership and David Sims. — lo and behold — less skin. A rotating cast of contributing stylists advertising support, and without a spe- “I want to show in French Vogue more will pitch in. Among those already lined cific plan to shift its focus or fortunes. bright shade of green. and more a lot of clothes,” she said. up are Joe McKenna, Camilla Nickerson French Vogue is the flagship title for Gisele Bündchen, poured into a Flicking through a binder showing off a and Melanie Ward, the former Helmut Condé Nast France, whose 2010 revenues white Dolce & Gabbana dress before shoot of Anja Rubik by Hans Feurer, Alt ar- Lang collaborator who also succeeded were up 12 percent, as reported. the lens of Ines van Lamsweerde and rived at a page of the model reclining, her Alt as creative adviser to Christophe “It’s a different point of view, but no- Vinoodh Matadin, is on the cover of the blouse open and a nipple in plain sight. Decarnin, designer at Balmain. body gave me a mission to change it or April issue, and portrayed inside in a “One boob,” she said, holding up a finger “I want to have new people working make it more commercial,” she stressed. new way. “A bit grunge,” Alt said, flick- and flashing a big smile: “Otherwise, you for the magazine,” Alt said. “I also want Alt said her full imprint would be felt ing through images of the St. Barth’s don’t recognize it’s French Vogue.” to push some young stylists: all the girls with the August issue, as she arrived in the shoot, one of which shows Bündchen’s Famous for her reed-thin figure, rock who have been trained by French Vogue.” editor in chief slot on Feb. 1 in the midst famously long legs — and a sliver of her ’n’ roll style and swag of black hair, Alt The magazine is rare in its devotion of the spring-summer 2011 fashion season. buttocks. “The inspiration was Agnès possesses that same fierce French je ne to fashion models as cover subjects, par- She noted the layout would evolve gradu- Varda’s ‘Vagabond,’” Alt explained, re- sais quoi allure that catapulted her pre- ticularly Daria Werbowy, Kate Moss and ally over time. The multiple-font headlines ferring to the 1985 film about a woman decessor Carine Roitfeld to fame. Malgosia Bela — a legacy Alt plans to that made reading it a challenge have al- who wanders through French wine But Alt is a more informal, low-key continue. ready made a disappearing act. country in winter. sort: She blushes easily, loves to laugh Alt was quick to uphold French Alt seized on an opportunity to work Jumping out from summery shoots of and maneuvers through fashion weeks Vogue’s reputation for audacity over its with Feurer, a seasoned photographer fa- pale fashions is a cinematic black-and- with neither fuss nor spectacle. Ye t one 90 years of publishing —albeit with cer- mous for shooting with a long lens on the white cowboy-themed shoot by David detects a decisive streak, and Alt is al- tain boundaries. “I’m the first one to do a beach, and his Pirelli calendars. Sims, which Alt styled. ready mapping out her territory. topless picture. I like the freedom of the Feurer also provided the striking “I like that there’s one element, like a The April issue, for example, features a magazine,” she stressed. That said, she image to introduce the beauty section on mistake, in the issue,” she said. “I will try long feature about Turkish novelist Orhan voiced plans to showcase jewelry “in a the eco habits of top models: A close-up of to surprise the reader month after month.” Pamuk, with one black-and-white portrait fol- more classic way,” while hastening to add, a model sticking out her tongue, painted a — MILES SOCHA

Karl Lagerfeld and for its silky chocolate-covered encouraging and motivational,” said Rachel Bilson ice cream on a stick — and such Salvatore. She’s created a more lifestyle- celebrity ambassadors as Eva driven magazine and called for more memo pad longoria and benicio del Toro. rigorous reporting for features. One “I love to do advertising, on piece, for example, reports on how TIME TO PAY UP: After nearly two The Times will charge readers both sides of the camera,” said Viagra has shaken up marriages and years of planning, The New York who aren’t print subscribers $15 Lagerfeld, who was mobbed by relationships while another considers Times finally unveiled its pay model a month — or $195 a year — to youngsters on the street when he the differences between conventional for its Web site and other digital have full access to its Web site stepped away for a lunch break; and organic farming. editions on Thursday. The pay and mobile device. For access for most recognized him from his Longtime readers will notice new model goes into effect in the U.S. a tablet device app and the Web appearance in a new Volkswagen sections, original photography and beginning March 28. site its $20 a month; for the tablet, commercial in Europe. fresher formats. Beauty coverage, In the coming year, Times smart phone and the Web site it’s Bilson, meanwhile, is soon in particular, is increasing by 58 executives are anticipating only $35 a month. Times readers who heading to North Carolina to start percent in the May issue and Sonia modest revenues. receive home delivery of any kind filming a new pilot series called “Hart Kashuk has been tapped as a new “I don’t think they’re thinking (daily, weekend, etc.) will get all of Dixie,” reuniting her with “The beauty columnist. Perhaps as a this is a game changer in the digital content for free automatically. model and the object of Giabiconi’s O.C.” creator and executive producer result, beauty advertising is up shorter term,” said a senior Though Web sites like The lens — doesn’t take the abuse lying Josh Schwartz. In it, she portrays an 64 percent in the issue. Fashion newsroom source. “This is a long- Financial Times and The Wall Street down. “I threw my wig at him, so I Upper East Side doctor transplanted editorial, in small doses, is also term project. It’s not going to be a Journal already have pay walls, those get him back,” she said, a knowing to a small town peopled with making its way into Prevention. On huge revenue source right away.” are both newspapers that serve smirk curling on her lips. eccentric characters. “It’s kind of like the cover, Sheryl Crow is wearing J Times executives believe if specialized audiences. The Times’ new Lagerfeld certainly put Bilson ‘Sweet Home Alabama’ meets ‘Doc Brand jeans and a tank by BCBG. they introduce this plan now, pay wall will be the biggest experiment through her paces, also casting Hollywood,’” Bilson mused, relishing And speaking of the cover, editorial loyal readers will get accustomed in American print media to find out if her as an art student and a prima the prospect of donning city-slicker director bill Stump and Salvatore to paying and it will provide an there is a reliable revenue stream from ballerina. “With the pointe shoes threads for the role. — MIlES SOChA have retooled the logo and tagline important revenue stream down the readers who suddenly believe they want and all, which is very painful,” she (although it may take line, as circulation and advertising to pay for news online. — JOhn KOblIn noted, marveling at the Parisian hEAlThY, bUT FUn, the eagle-eye observer revenues for the printed paper locations, including the famous TOO: Like a shot of to recognize it). “It’s inevitably continue to drop. A senior I SCREAM, YOU SCREAM, WE All music hall Folies Bergère, and wheatgrass or getting more modern, feminine newsroom source said that it’s likely SCREAM FOR…: “Baptiste, it’s show Lagerfeld’s multitasking brilliance. enough fiber, reading and lighter,” said the pricing in the digital plan will be time,” Karl lagerfeld bellowed on the In the art-school vignette, Bilson Prevention used to Salvatore. On the ad adjusted based on reader demand. gigantic set where he was directing a is released from her creative block be a habit that, while side, publisher laura The pay plan addresses two series of minifilms featuring Rachel after indulging in an ice-cream undoubtedly good for Petasnick said paging readerships: the drive-by readership bilson and baptiste Giabiconi for the break, Lagerfeld explained between you, was hard to keep is up 3 percent for that represents the lion’s share of the forthcoming U.S. launch of premium sips of diet cola and a protein snack. up with. Full of research, the issue with new Times’ robust online traffic, and the ice-cream brand Magnum. The three 90-second spots are it sometimes read more advertisers including loyal readership that clicks on Times Some in the room snickered, to premiere at the Tribeca Film like a medical journal Neutrogena Healthy stories several times a day, every day. as “Showtime” is the title of Festival on April 21, and then land than a health magazine. Skin, Nestlé Carnation Times executives insist that most Giabiconi’s first single and video on Magnum’s Facebook page, part Editor in chief Diane Breakfasts and people will not bump up against the as a breakout singer. On this day, of a marketing onslaught that will Salvatore, who was hired Energizer Batteries. pay wall, and they do not expect the chiseled model was cast as an include TV commercials and a print in August, is reinventing “Readers can still a significant decline in traffic or ill-tempered young photographer, campaign, also featuring Bilson and this healthy reading habit with the rely on us to question authority and advertising revenue as a result. All which he played to the hilt for lensed by Lagerfeld. The latter are May issue. Over a Prevention-approved be their champions but they can readers are allowed to click up to Lagerfeld’s cameras, donning dark to break in May. lunch of salmon and broccoli at ABC get all of this without it feeling like 20 stories a month, and all stories glasses and hurling expletives. Shipments of Magnum, Kitchen, Salvatore talked about trying a spoonful of medicine,” Salvatore linked on blogs or social media sites Bilson, upstairs getting her hair Unilever’s biggest ice cream brand, to reinvigorate the Rodale title while said. “This is all about making like Facebook and Twitter will be curled for the scene, assured that are starting this month in the U.S. staying true to its original purpose. “I Prevention as compelling and free, even if they have hit their limit. her character — an ingenue actress/ In Europe, the brand is known wanted to make it more entertaining, engaging as possible.” — AMY WICKS WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2011 3 retail/fashion Burberry Brit on Bleecker CFDAs Get Youth Infusion

By Sharon EdElSon By roSEMarY FEITElBErG nEW YorK — Bleecker WITh onlY three of the 2011 CFda Fashion award Street’s combination of nominees being over the age of 40, this year’s con- quaint antique shops and tenders share a sense of camaraderie not seen in expensive designer brands many years. has become a magnet for as soon as diane von Furstenberg and Steven tourists and younger shop- Kolb revealed the 2011 crew Wednesday night, sev- pers alike. Seeking to eral competitors congratulated each other enthusias- tap into the street’s mix, tically. alexander Wang scored a trifecta with nomi- Burberry Brit on Thursday nations for Womenswear designer of the Year award unveiled a two-level, and accessory designer of the Year award, as well as icky Zehavi icky

4,150-square-foot store at r the Swarovski award for Menwear. Vera Wang, one 367-369 Bleecker Street. of the few old-guard designers to turn up, was among In mid-april, a Brit unit the first to embrace him. will bow in london’s Covent photo by The three-time nominee will square off Garden. The company has Burberry Brit is aiming for a younger customer. against Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler’s not finalized the size of the Jack McCollough and lazaro hernandez for the Covent Garden store. If the two units, opening months apart on opposite sites of Womenswear award and reed Krakoff and the the atlantic, have anything in common, it’s locations that appeal to young people. Proenza Schouler duo again for the accessory “They both speak to a real youth culture,” a Burberry spokesman said. “Both award. Phillip lim and robert Geller are his compe- areas have young stores and are vibrant. Covent Garden has skateboard shops tition for the Swarovski award for Menswear. Mary-Kate and and a market.” none of the nominees in attendance acted as Ashley Olsen In addition to a Burberry Brit store in Santa Monica, there are two exist- though they had a sure thing, but they did openly ing Manhattan locations. after opening units on Madison avenue in 2009 and share their enthusiasm. as von Furstenberg literally Columbus avenue in 2010, the British fashion house decided it needed a down- swept ashley and Mary-Kate olsen under her wing for a photo op, the twins beamed. town presence. after all, Burberry Brit is the casual expression of the Burberry They are in the running for the Swarovski award for Womenswear for up-and-coming brand and includes outerwear and denim for men and women, priced from $28 talent along with Joseph altuzarra and Prabal Gurung. In response to the suggestion that to $1,295. Prices for Burberry Prorsum, the runway collection, features a lay- the trick to this new recognition is that they have always taken their fashion biz seriously, ered silk satin dress for $2,995 and a ruched ribbon shift dress, $4,995, while ashley olsen said, “I think the trick is we never take ourselves too seriously.” dresses in the Burberry london collection range from $550 to $795. altuzzara did joint interviews and palled around the party with Eddie Borgo, a con- The Bleecker Street Brit space was designed by Christopher Bailey, tender for the Swarovski award for accessory design. Competition for that category was Burberry’s chief creative officer. Burberry Brit and Burberry accessories will so tight that four nominees were chosen instead of the standard three. alejandro Ingelmo, be sold in the new store in categories that include men’s wear, women’s wear, Jason Wu and Pamela love are the others. fragrances, timepieces and eyewear. Borgo said of the news, “I am kind of euphoric. In my office, we have been trying to ignore that the nominations were happening. It’s been the thing that nobody really talked about.” altuzzara said, “It’s really exciting to be part of this. It’s a fashion prize but many of Fashion scoops us are from the same generation so it’s less about competition. a lot of these people are people we hang out with. It’s not aggressive or hostile — it’s really fun.” 60 MINUTES WITH TORY BURCH: Lest anyone NEW FRIENDS: The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Before hugging each other good- in the nearly sold-out crowd at French Fund support base is growing. J. Crew will Eddie Borgo, Diane von Furstenberg bye, he asked Borgo, “hey, when are Institute Alliance Française’s Wednesday night serve as the fund’s new partner this year, and Joseph Altuzarra. we going to have lunch?” and pro- fashion talk with Tory Burch was unaware of while Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger, ceeded to make plans. her rise from socialite-fashion public relations Tiffany & Co., Starbucks and thecorner.com/ Even Wu, whose five-year-old executive to international fashion lifestyle Yoox Group signed on as its underwriters, fashion business has garnered inter- sensation, they aren’t now. Moderator Pamela joining American Express, Liz Claiborne Inc., national recognition thanks in part Golbin took Burch through the well-parsed Nordstrom, Theory, Lord & Taylor, Appleman to First lady Michelle obama’s fond- details of her ascent up the fashion business Foundation, Barneys New York, Coach, L’Oréal ness for his clothes, was excited by food chain, from working out of her home with Paris and Vogue. The application process for the nomination. “now that I’ve been a handful of employees to her global business the monetary and mentoring awards kicks off doing this for five years, I feel like a of 45-and-counting stores and a staff of 800. Monday. Finalists will be unveiled in July and newbie again for being nominated Revelations were few, but Burch did mention winners in mid-November. for accessories.” flirting with the idea of a men’s line, inspired “It’s really flattering. We are bare- by her father’s wardrobe, as well as finally DIOR CANCELLATION: Timing is everything ly out of our second season with ac- taking the leap from presentation to full- in fashion — which might explain why the cessories. It’s tremendously inspiring fledged fashion show next season. Fashion Institute of Technology decided to and invigorating to apply my aesthet- nix plans for a discussion and signing of ic to something else. We just launched accessories in 30 stores,” he said, before greeting LIVIN’ LA VIDA Roxanne Lowit’s “Backstage Dior” book. Lowit Ingelmo with a congratulatory hug, “hey, same category.” GIORGIO: Ricky chronicled 10 years of Dior shows by John This year’s prize for Menswear designer of the Year will be decided between Michael Martin has turned Galliano in the tome, which also has a foreword Bastian, Patrik Ervell and Simon Spurr. to Giorgio Armani by the fallen designer. “The timing didn’t The apparent lovefest could be rooted in the fact that many of the nominees have risen steve eichner

for his sartorial tour seem right,” a spokeswoman for FIT said. up the ranks together thanks to the CFda/Vogue Fashion Fund and the Fashion Incubator, by choices on several two opportunities that did not exist for other generations. That was not lost on Karen

occasions, and the NIGHT FEVER: Louis Peterson, the CFda’s consultant director of public relations and special events. photos two are rekindling Vuitton will be setting The CFda’s board of directors agreed “overwhelm- their partnership for Ricky Martin up a summer pop- ingly” to honor lady Gaga — “someone who has created Hal Rubenstein

Martin’s “Musica and Giorgio hris Moore up shop in Cannes, a fashion revolution” with the Fashion Icon award, von + Alma + Sexo” Armani c France, opening just Furstenberg said. Jacobs, who also scored the Geoffrey world tour. Armani in time for the 64th Beene lifetime achievement award, could not make it to custom-made several Emporio Armani outfits uitton/ annual film festival. the party but von Furstenberg said he told her via e-mail for Martin and his dancers, backup singers Situated next to that, “very happy” as he was to hear the news, it was only v Louis

and the band. “He will help bring Musica + by Vuitton’s store on the “half a lifetime award.” Von Furstenberg said, “I told him Alma + Sexo alive,” Martin said. Croisette, the unit that I was much older than him and I am still half-kicking.”

Among the looks for the tour, which kicks photo will focus on ready-to- other special awards to be doled out at the June 6 off in San Juan, Puerto Rico, on March 25, wear and accessories lincoln Center alice Tully hall event include Phoebe Armani created black leather jackets for the for evening in a Philo of Celine for the International award; hilary Eighties punk-themed opening moment, suits decor inspired by the alexander for the Media award, in honor of Eugenia for the Twenties jazz segment, navy blue-and- seaside and film, all Sheppard; arthur Elgort for the CFda Board of white stripes for the Mediterranean section glistening mirrors directors’ Special Tribute award, and InStyle’s hal and white ensembles for the Afro-Brazilian- and cinematic rubenstein for the Founders award, in honor of themed finale. lighting. There will Eleanor lambert. “Ricky personifies today’s modern man also be a garden on his way out of the party, rubenstein said, “hard and is an extraordinary talent,” Armani said. A look courtyard that will is repairing the Bruckner Expressway. What we do is “Last summer, Ricky attended my Emporio from Louis double as a lounge diligent and time consuming, but we get to work with Armani men’s fashion show in Milan. We Vuitton’s and an area for the talented people and are surrounded by a world of became enthusiastic over the prospect of spring show. display of luxury beauty. I get excited to go to work every day — that’s collaborating again.” watches and jewelry. what I like to do.” 4 WWDSTYLE friday, march 18, 2011 beauty Born Again Keeping a brand fresh and relevant, yet maintaining its DNA, is one of the most important aspects of success. Below, four companies talk about how they plan to breathe new life into their respective brands, all while making sure not to abandon their core customer.

H20+ steps up to owN MAriNe scieNce One of the few independent players left in skin care, H2O+ has undergone many changes in the past year to hone its commitment on marine science skin care. “We completed a one-year project telling us who our customer is and what the brand means to them,” said Bill Colli, senior vice president of sales and marketing. “We are also closing stores, building a retail network and establishing flagships in key markets. We just re- launched our Web site and plan to grow internationally.” Most importantly, is the brand’s goal to delve deep- er into marine science skin care (as opposed to sea- derived skin care, their former tagline) to target their core customer. “We had to step up and own this platform,” said Elizabeth Maul, director of global marketing. She said their research showed the average H2O+ customer is about 31 years old and that new customers are even younger, between 18 and 30 years old. The brand, which MyChelle skin care is now color coded. generates about $100 million globally, is working on new packaging for March 2012, as well as a new logo. Most recently, two H2O+ lines, Sea Pure and AquaFirm, have iMAGiNG MAcHiNe for MycHelle reimage their face to see any changes in their been approved to bear the Natural Products Association MyChelle Dermaceuticals launched 11 years skin. Reaction to MIS has been “overwhelm- seal, also proving the firm’s commitment to natural ingre- ago, back when natural antiaging skin care ing” said Carey, as it has been testing in a dients. “We are working with raw material suppliers that was still a developing market. Now the brand Whole Foods Market in Austin, Texas. “They can make [our ingredients] natural,” said Anna Kaplan, H20+ Prep is reinventing itself as “the industry has had to give people buzzers, like they do at the firm’s new senior product development manager. Tonic bears grown up,” said Kristine Carey, vice presi- a busy restaurant, because so many people H2O+, which has entry-level prestige price points an NPA seal. dent of marketing. The first to bring peptides were in line to use the machine,” she said. with $34 items, has also taken its U.S. store count from to natural skin care, Carey said, MyChelle In addition to skin care, MyChelle is launch- 75 down to eight flagships in key urban markets to serve as marketing has repackaged all products, color coding its ing Ultimate Lash and Brow Enhancer this and advertising vehicles for consumers. In addition to Colli and Kaplan, various lines, with red representing products month, for $67, which claims to improve Deborah Lydic, formerly of Oxygen Development, is now director of R&D, for dry skin, purple for aging skin, green for the appearance of lash length after six and Bryan Butler, formerly of Estée Lauder, is now chief financial officer. combination skin and blue for sensitive skin. weeks. New ceo, Terry Tierney, former ceo This year H2O+ distribution expanded to include Duane Reade’s Look Perhaps most compelling is the firm’s new of Allegro Coffee, added MyChelle is going Boutique and CVS’s Beauty 360 doors, supplementing its retail partner- MyChelle Imaging System [MIS], which takes from being sold exclusively in natural chan- ship with Ulta, and will enter Russia, Germany, South Korea and Brazil an image of the face — at shelf — focusing nels, such as health food stores and Whole by mid-2011. The firm is also working on a luxury line for the fourth quar- on fine lines and skin damage. The MIS then Foods Market, to specialty beauty channels, ter of 2011 using “coveted ingredients from the ocean” with prices in prescribes a treatment regimen. Users can chains and boutiques. the $250 to $300 range, one that looks to bring them into new channels. return to the store after several months and — Andrea Nagel — A.N.

A New view for clAriNs joNAtHAN As perforMANce BrAND performance claims and natural ingredients, Clarins is repositioning itself in Though hairstylist Jonathan Antin separated touting 100 percent vegan formulas that are sul- the U.S. by highlighting its natu- in 2010 from the namesake product he helped fate, paraben, phthalate free and gluten free. ral roots crossed with cutting-edge create, Jonathan Product, still lives on, now Even the water used in formulas is de-ionized, science claims. with a new direction. The brand is evolving purified and infused with natural botanicals. While in the U.S. the brand is from a celebrity brand to one with strong The various ranges — Smooth, Dirt, Hydrate, perhaps best known for its sun Volume, Green Rootine — will be merchandised care and body products, Jacques by family for ease of navigation in self-service Courtin-Clarins founded the environments in the mass distribution chan- brand in France with a strong em- nel, a new partner. Packaging has also been up- phasis on botanical extracts and dated to distinguish each their value in skin care as well as collection from one an- prescriptive solutions for facial other. Jonathan Product skin issues — a positioning the recently launched in brand still uses in Europe. Duane Reade’s Look Clarins is touting its changes with Boutique, supplement- a major advertising campaign, using girl- Clarins is ing its Ulta and Sephora next-door types and unretouched photos. Jonathan repackaging its partnerships. “The idea Zrihen, president and chief executive officer of Clarins USA, entire range. is to go back to basics said they are aiming to be “the number-three share of voice and concentrate on our in magazine skin care advertising this year,” a ranking in- hero [products.] Yes, we dustry sources translate to mean roughly $15 million-plus in ad spend in 2011. launched with a styl- This is a major departure for Clarins, which traditionally has run single-page, ist, but the brand has product-focused shots in the U.S., said Maria Dempsey, executive vice presi- always been about get- dent of marketing for Clarins USA. “We are now going for much more of a ting the end result,” said brand statement and a consistency in our advertising, as well as a greater Juliana Grippa, market- presence in books throughout the year,” said Dempsey, who noted that scien- hinsee ing manager for Jonathan tific innovation will also be communicated through this campaign — especial- Product. For the third ly for a major skin care launch the brand plans for September. A revamped quarter, Jonathan Product C george Web site is expected to be launched in July. is launching a straighten- By year-end 2012, added Dempsey, the entire brand will be repackaged. 20 by ing treatment to the salon Changes will include using glass rather than plastic for skin care, modern- industry, its answer to izing type and employing new finishes like pearlized white rather than the Brazilian and Keratin the matte white currently used. “It’s intended to make the products feel phenomenon. “The pro-

more luxurious and modern,” said Dempsey. The brand is phasing the new h Mitra; obert cess takes 90 minutes and r packaging in gradually, with about 50 percent of the color cosmetics range will last a minimum of four already in the new packaging, she said. Clarins has also tightened up dis- months,” said Grippa, adding tribution — currently at about 1,000 U.S. department and specialty store Jonathan Product has the active ingredient can’t be doors — and hired Pati Dubroff as the company’s celebrity makeup artist. a sleek new look. disclosed at this time.

— Julie Naughton Clarins photo by — A.N. WWDSTYLE friday, march 18, 2011 5

For more natural care news see expo west story at WWD.com/ Confusion Plagues Natural Care Category beauty.

NEW YORK — Once again, shoppers At Bartell Drug, there’s a fusion take care of yourself and your family, the research from Mintel, in 2010, 13 percent want greener options. However, of natural products and waste natural way, without additives, chemicals of new skin care, hair care and cosmetics there’s bewilderment over reduction in packaging. The or the other stuff you don’t need,” a repre- made paraben-free claims (up from 5 per- what “going natural” means. chain also has its own natu- sentative of the chain explained. cent in 2008) and almost 9 percent of new For some consumers, the ral proprietary line. “At Target, suppliers said, is about to debut skin care, hair care and cosmetics made goal is natural ingredients. Bartell Drugs, we stock a fresh look in their naturals section, and organic claims (twice as many as in 2007). Others want less packaging. many natural and organic Ulta is amping up their natural assort- Mintel said being more natural is one of “There is still a lot of critical items produced with mini- ment as the chain remodels its stores. Rite the biggest trends for 2011. confusion,” said Kathy mal environmental impact. Aid, said sources, is also in the process of “Companies are stressing efficacy, but Steirly, a former beauty re- by mass To highlight these offer- adding natural offerings to join Eco-Tools, also they are finding they don’t need fancy tail executive who now con- Faye Brookman ings, we are introducing Jason and Alba. packaging anymore. It is becoming chic sults on the business. “But everyday elements for well- Data support manufacturers’ moves and a cool thing to have less packaging,” natural is becoming more ness — products you use to toward being more natural. According to said Steirly. mainstream and while people might not know what they want in their products, they know what they don’t want, such as parabens.” The confusion makes it harder for retailers to create the right natural planogram. Should they stress natu- ral or emphasize vendors that are re- ducing waste? “I think when it comes to natural, there’s more interest in food than cos- metics. But, shoppers are searching

Jason’s new packaging. for products with less packaging and harmful chemicals,” suggested indus- try consultant Allan Mottus. Manufacturers think natural in- gredients are a consumer’s priority. “Consumers at all income levels are increasingly realizing the importance of not just the ingredients in the food they put in their body, but also the in- gredients in the products,” said Doug Hosking, chief executive officer of Freeman Beauty. “Natural ingredients are absolutely becoming more impor- tant within the mass market, as every- one looking for beauty care products formulated with good-for-you-ingredi- ents is looking for value,” he said. Retailers do see a more informed shopper. “We know our shoppers re- spond to natural beauty products,” said Joe Magnacca, president of Daily Living Products and Solutions for Walgreens. “We have to find the right mix. We just added H2O+ to our Look Boutique.” 6 WWDSTYLE friday, march 18, 2011

beauty

Lauder Takes Diverse View For Latest Launches, Ads By Jul’’ Ie nauGhTon created over the years. Joan, liu Wen and constance are all global beauties eSTée lauDeR IS powering its latest who will help us express all facets of skin care launch with a multicultural beauty and write a new chapter for the themed ad featuring its three most brand.” Smalls is of puerto Rican de- recently signed spokesmodels — in- scent, while liu is asian and Jablonski tended to convey with both products is French. and advertising images that diversity “This is an important moment is beautiful. for the brand,” said Jane hertzmark Joan Smalls, liu Wen and constance hudis, global brand president for estée Lauder’s new print ad features Joan Smalls, Constance Jablonski and Liu Wen. Jablonski will appear together in the lauder. “These products are universal, key advertising for the brand’s new and have both global and local rele- bined with dimethoxytolyl propylres- digital) would be about $35 million in skin care launches — Idealist even vance. We are going back to our heritage orcinol), as well as Vitamin c and bo- north america. The brand is in about Skintone Illuminator and Idealist for our vision of the future.” tanical extracts. anti-irritants licorice 2,200 department and specialty store and gentian are intended to minimize doors in north america and also sells the visible irritation that can cause at esteelauder.com. redness, as well as contribute to the craig mcDean shot the print ads, We are going back to our heritage formation of dark spots. The cooling while harris Savides shot the TV spots. eye Illuminator uses the Triple-optic Three TV spots — one featuring each of Technology for immediate results, as the three models — have been filmed, for our vision of the future. well as the proprietary Dark circle noted charisse Ford, senior vice presi- correcting complex, which uses pinox- dent of global marketing for estée — Jane hertzmark hudis, estee lauder ide and magnolia extract in conjunction lauder. In July, lauder will unveil in- with a cooling ceramic applicator to re- store images of hilary Rhoda, Jablonski, duce under-eye puffiness. liu and Smalls globally, with the inten- cooling eye Illuminator. The products Idealist even Skintone Illuminator is The serum will be offered in two tion of bringing the “every Woman can launch first in north america in June, a fast-acting serum designed to address sizes — 30 ml. for $58 and 50 ml. for $85 Be Beautiful” concept to life at counter, followed by a european launch in July all key signs of uneven skin tone for all — and the cooling eye Illuminator will said Ford. In addition to the key print and a rollout to the remaining markets ethnicities, while Idealist cooling eye sell for $58 for 15 ml. ad image, each model will have a free- through September. In north america, Illuminator, a product with two shades, While hudis and other lauder exec- standing print ad image highlighting the TV and print advertising will begin addresses dark circles and puffiness for utives declined comment on the market uneven skin tone concerns that apply to running in June. all skin tones. opportunity for the new products, in- her particular ethnicity. “estée lauder always used to say The serum is powered by the pro- dustry sources estimated that together, Sampling will be a large part of that any woman can be beautiful, and prietary Triple-optic Technology, a the items could generate global retail the campaign, noted Ford. more than she expressed that in many ways, in- blend which is intended to immediately sales of more than $200 million in their 200,000 packette samples will be distrib- cluding through advertising,” said aerin provide skin with a brighter, more lu- first year. about $85 million of that fig- uted to the public at launch and, prior lauder, senior vice president and cre- minous look, as well as correctTone ure is expected to be done in north to that, the brand is sampling full-sized ative director for estée lauder. “This Technology, which includes an opti- america, said sources, who also esti- products to 10,000 “influencers” who campaign is a modern interpretation of mized Glucosamine-Dp ’’molecule blend mated that lauder’s first-year spend on will be charged with spreading the word some of the most memorable ads estée (Idealist’s signature glucosamine com- advertising (comprising T V, print and about them. Avon’s Mark Names A New Romance for Ralph Lauren Reggiardo President aVon pRoDucTS Inc. has promot- Ralph lauRen Romance is artemio — can be glimpsed. ed Vanessa Reggiardo to president of taking another swing at the world The print ad marks the first its flirty, youth-centered mark brand. of love with a new ad campaign, time the brand has used color for Reggiardo, who previously was vice set to launch globally this spring. Romance since its 1998 launch; past president global color, hair care and Following its long-held tradition of ads have all been done in black and strategic alliances, began her new role using real-life couples for Romance white. The visual depicts an unposed at mark on march 14. She reports to advertising, the company selected kiss between Figueras and Blaquier, chuck cramb, who as part of a sweep- polo player nacho Figueras and his both on horseback in a field on the es- ing reorganization at avon last month photographer wife, Delfina “Delfi” tate. Figueras is clad in a black suit, was named vice chairman of the newly Blaquier, as the new faces of the Blaquier in a flowing silver gown. formed Developed market Group. campaign. It’s something of double- “It’s very emotional for me, to Reggiardo’s role includes devel- duty for Figueras, who became the see that in print and on film,” said oping long-term growth strategies, face of Ralph lauren’s polo Black Blaquier, who noted both she and and overseeing mark’s core busi- fragrance in 2005; in 2009, he be- Figueras grew up riding; the two ness in north america, puerto Rico, came the face of lauren’s entire met at a polo match and spent Dominican Republic and canada. She polo fragrance franchise. much of their courtship on horse- also will oversee the brand’s philan- “We wanted to bring back the back, she added. “It truly was a thropic program, m.powerment. dream in Romance,” said Guillaume stolen moment.” Reggiardo replaces claudia poccia, de lesquen, president of Ralph added Figueras, “We’ve been who had served as global president of lauren Fragrances Worldwide, of married 12 years and have three mark since 2005. poccia left the com- the campaign, which will include beautiful children — we’re hon- pany in January to become president both print and T V. print advertis- ored that mr. lauren sees in us a and chief executive officer of Gurwitch ing breaks april 15, while TV spots real-life happy couple, symbolic of products, parent company of the laura will begin appearing on april 22; the his vision of Romance.” mercier and RéVive brands. timing is intended to capitalize on The sparkling floral, created by Reggiardo joined avon in 1995 in mother’s Day. a digital campaign is master perfumer harry Fremont of the global skin care and marketing di- also in development and expected to The Romance print ad stars Nacho Figueras and Firmenich, was launched in 1998 vision. In 2003, she also had a hand in go live at the end of april. Delfina Blaquier. and has remained in the top 20 the launch of mark, a spin-off of avon The ads were shot at Blaquier’s women’s fragrance launches since geared for young women interested in grandparents’ estate, la concepción, in Buenos aires, then. Fremont also created a fruity floral flanker, Summer beauty, clothing and accessories. prior argentina, where Figueras and Blaquier were married. Romance, which was launched in summer 2010 as a limited- to avon, Reggiardo worked at l’oréal Bruce Weber shot both the TV and ad campaigns, as he has edition scent; it now is being brought back to the line perma- in the firm’s cosmetic & Fragrance since the scent’s launch. In certain frames of the ads, pho- nently. It retails for $78 for 3.4 oz. eau de parfum. Retail Division. tos of the couple’s three children — hilario, aurora and  —J.N.  —MOLLYPRIOR WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2011 7

Un Jardin Companies Struggle With China Regulations sur le Toit {Continued from page one} During Lauder’s earnings call in February, Freda said, executive offi cer, Fabrizio Freda, said this year he expects “In China, we are making progress on the registration front China will likely grow to become the company’s fourth larg- because with a lot of work and a lot of diligent amount of est global market. He also nodded to the infl ux of Chinese research, we are able to respond to the new requirement globe trotters. for registration of existing products.” “[There are] 40 million Chinese traveling this year; in the He added, “In terms of the ability to register new ingre- next year it probably will go up to 90 million,” he said. “The dients in China, for the moment the industry has not been stronger you are in China Mainland, the more you benefi t really reopened to the right process. So we are actively from the increase of Chinese traveling around the world. So working on this and we hope that in the short [term] this that’s priority number one.” will be reopened.” After the call, Freda told WWD, “We are Executives said the growth potential of the Chinese mar- better understanding what they need.” ket makes navigating the new wave of regulation paramount. At the Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting earlier this month, Francine Lamoriello, the organization’s China’s regulations on beauty present a wall for fi rms to climb. executive vice president of global strategies, said China will con- tinue to be a major issue for the council. PCPC continues to work with Chinese officials, encour- aging them to provide technical guidance on how fi rms should in- terpret the regulations. The lack of overall global regulatory consistency presents a challenge for beauty fi rms. Elizabeth Arden Inc. chair- man, president and ceo E. Scott GEORGE CHINSEE Beattie, said, “It’s to be expect-

ed that, as China evolves as an PHOTO BY economy, it wants to establish good, strong standards, but we have standards all around the world. They’re just not har- Hermès Revisits monized properly,” he said. “That’s a big opportunity for RON WATTS/CORBIS us as an industry. It would im- The Garden prove the global effi ciency of

PHOTO BY all companies.” By JENNIFER WEIL

PARIS — For its fourth garden-related fragrance, Hermès executives didn’t look far afield for inspiration. Rather than turning to vast gardens in Egypt or India, as for some of the brand’s other Original Penguin’s First Scent scents, they instead took a cue from a small plot of green atop Hermès’ head- quarters here. By MATTHEW W. EVANS down into notes of red patchouli, tonka bean, vanilla noir Called Un Jardin sur le Toit (or A and dark musk. Garden on the Roof, in English), the new PETE THE PENGUIN is getting a signature fragrance. Falic noted his fi rm and Original Penguin worked “close- unisex fragrance, due out starting at the An Original Penguin by Munsingwear, a men’s scent ly” to design the packaging and the formulation. end of this month, was concocted by in- slated to be launched at Nordstrom later this month, is the The clear scent’s bottle is transparent at the base and house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. 56-year-old brand’s fi rst fragrance. features a gradient from Catherine Fulconis, Hermès The eau de toilette, which is described as an orien- its base to a brown hue Parfums’ chief executive offi cer, used tal, was produced by Original Penguin’s licensee, Falic at the top of the bottle words like “crisp,” “vegetal” and “lu- Fashion Group. It will come in two sizes: A 3.4-oz. ver- — brown combined minous” to describe the juice. In creat- sion for $65 and a 1.7-oz. size for $50. with blue is a popular ing it, Ellena gave a nod to the Hermès Jerome Falic, chief executive motif of the brand. A garden that includes fruit trees, such as offi cer of Duty Free Americas, magnet holds the metal apple, plus fl owers like rose, magnolia parent of Falic Fashion Group, cap onto the collar. and impatiens. “It’s a little garden that said the deal with sportswear The Original is rich with scents,” said Fulconis. and accessories firm Original Penguin fashion Un Jardin sur le Toit’s outer packag- Penguin puts the fra- brand, which was re- ing features an illustration of a Paris grance marketer “more launched in 2003 by cityscape by Philippe Dumas, a mem- into specialty brands. its owner Perry Ellis ber of Hermès’ founding family’s fi fth “We have expanded International, is plan- generation who has known the garden distribution with the ning retail growth, since childhood. various brands we’ve driven by a strategy of While Hermès executives would signed,” said Falic. To store openings in the not discuss sales projections, industry name a couple, Falic U.S. and abroad. sources estimate Un Jardin sur le Toit Fashion Group mar- “We’re looking to — which comes three years after the last kets Eva Longoria’s become stronger in our scent in the garden collection, Un Jardin fragrance (her second retail business,” Ann après la Mousson — will generate 20 mil- is in development, ac- Payne, senior vice presi- lion euros, or $28 million, in fi rst-year cording to Falic) as well dent of merchandising wholesale revenues worldwide. as Perry Ellis scents. and design, told WWD Each of Hermès’ garden scents is After a “short” exclu- earlier this year. The fi rm linked to the house’s annual theme sive stint at Nordstrom is expecting to open about at the time of its launch, and 2011 has

— and a debut at Original MITRA ROBERT fi ve stores in key U.S. cit- been dubbed the year of the contempo- Penguin’s own stores — ies, as well as seven to 10 rary artisan. Un Jardin sur le Toit will An Original Penguin by overseas units, within the be introduced fi rst in France’s Hermès Munsingwear is to roll out PHOTO BY next year. boutiques on March 26, followed by a to Dillard’s and Lord & Original Penguin cur- mid-April rollout in full countrywide Taylor. Falic said the scent An Original Penguin by rently operates seven distribution. The launch plan also could reach full distribution Munsingwear full-price stores and includes Hermès stores in the U.S. of about 800 doors in the second three outlets around starting to sell Un Jardin sur le Toit half of this year. the country and 27 stores globally, in South America, South in mid-April. It will then hit counters Industry sources speculate the fragrance could do up- Africa, the Philippines and the U.K. “We’re also looking at of retailers there such as Saks Fifth ward of $10 million in fi rst-year retail sales, with some growing in Canada and Europe,” Payne added. Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Barneys New $4 million earmarked for a national print ad campaign in With Pete the Penguin as its logo, Original Penguin had York and Bergdorf Goodman during the men’s fashion and lifestyle magazines. its beginnings in the Munsingwear underwear factory in fi rst week of May. Fragrance Resources composed the scent, which has Minneapolis and started out as a golf brand, worn by ath- In the U.S., the 100-ml. eau de toi- opening notes of purple sage, neroli and golden apple; a letes such as Arnold Palmer and celebrities including Frank lette spray is to sell for $125 and the 50- heart of black pepper, fi r needle and lavender, and dries Sinatra and Dean Martin. ml. edt spray for $90. 008 WWDSTYLE XXXXXXXXX,FRIDAY, MARCH XXXXXXXX 18, 2011 XX, 2011 eye Jason Wu Mark Lee

Heather McQuarrie in Jeanne Yang Holmes & Yang with Christopher McQuarrie.

Amanda Brooks in 3.1 Katie Holmes in the Home Phillip Lim and Thakoon. A LITTLE AFTER 11:30 on Tuesday New York Fire Department’s Twitter feed, her sewing hobby, she seemed less night, a half-dozen paparazzi stood the pyrotechnics over the Hudson River on Katie Holmes: Tabloid Fixation outside a building in New York’s Tuesday night were an early Saint Patrick’s and more Katie Holmes: Ultimate Chelsea neighborhood waiting Day celebration, and the handiwork of the Homemaker. for Katie Holmes to exit. With the Grucci family. And though they might have “My mom grew up making actress’ arrival imminent, the added a nice touch, explosions in the sky curtains and pillows and photographers passed the time were a bit incongruous with an otherwise everything, and it made our home practicing. very low-key evening. very warm, so I like to do things “Katie!” one would mockingly “Well, we’ve all been traveling for weeks like that with my daughter,” shout out. On cue, the others lit up and we’ve all been away from home because she said. “My husband got me a the street and the imaginary starlet we’ve been in Paris, and a lot of the guests, sewing machine for my birthday.” with their fl ashes. the same,” Lee explained outside his living Could she share the make and A bit earlier in the evening, room as caterers served dessert. “I just model? and several fl oors higher, in the think it’s nice to be home.” “Oh, I can’t give away such penthouse apartment of Barneys Lee had invited a crowd of about 40 details,” the actress said with a New York chief executive offi cer guests, which included Jason Wu, Mark laugh. Mark Lee, a different sort of Consuelos, Amy Sacco (a neighbor, she Her friend Heather McQuarrie, who fl ashing lights mesmerized helpfully explained), a handful of editors had been traveling with her, piped guests at a dinner he hosted and his new-look Team Barneys: Amanda in: “That’s like asking a woman her for Holmes and Jeanne Yang, her Brooks, Dennis Freedman and Charlotte Blechman. age.” Katie Holmes partner in the fashion line As dinner was served, Holmes, in the Both women laughed. WWD in Lanvin. Holmes & Yang. midst of a Barneys trunk show tour for the explained that it did not know of “ Yo u have fi reworks for line, explained her tips for making a home such restrictions. us, too?” Yang asked Lee as a on the road. “Now you do,” they said almost in few partygoers made their way “Bring lots of crayons, glue, good paper unison. through his kitchen to a back patio to and you can turn any room into a very “That’s like asking a bra size,” watch. “Oh my God, you are fabulous.” warm, familial place,” she said with a smile. McQuarrie said. Well, not quite. According to the In fact, as the actress went on to explain — Matthew Lynch

Paul Devon Church buffet dinner near a confused Rachel Dratch, Giamatti and Aleksa who found herself the victim of unwanted Palladino Twin Cinema attention when one guest clutched her about STEVE EICHNER the shoulders and forced her into a photo Wednesday night found a merry troupe of op, screaming “I LOVE SNL!” into her face. cineastes traveling the length of West 23rd “Thank you?” Dratch winced, before fl eeing. Street in honor of Paul Giamatti’s latest acting A bit further downtown, at a Cinema Society turn, “Win Win.” Giamatti was all smiles at the screening of the new fi lm “Cracks” at the screening, fondly greeting fellow castmates Amy Tribeca Grand, star Eva Green was working her Ryan, Bobby Cannavale and Melanie Lynskey at the own Tom Ford sheath on Wednesday. Green School of Visual Arts Theater at 333 West 23rd plays a darkly seductive teacher at an all-girls Street. After the fi lm ended, the crowd spilled boarding school off the coast of England in the onto the street and moved to The Chelsea period thriller, helmed by fi rst-time fi lmmaker Room, in the underbelly of the Chelsea Hotel, Jordan Scott, the daughter of “Blade Runner” which, in a nice bit of symmetry, is exactly 111 and “Gladiator” director Ridley Scott. addresses east at 222 West 23rd Street. The “She’s very fearless and was willing to small space quickly overfl owed with jump into the deep end and show her differ-

Elettra Wiedemann bodies, to the chagrin of some of the ent colors,” said Scott of her star. “You have ALL OTHERS BY NICHOLAS HUNT/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; public relations people present, who to love her in the beginning of the fi lm and be Carol Alt Patricia grumbled audibly. “I wish we didn’t terrifi ed of her by the end.” Clarkson eye have to accommodate the families of Scott fi lmed “Cracks” in 2009, and the fi lm the talent,” said one clipboard toter. made the rounds at festivals, before being “We’re overcapacity already.” picked up by IFC Films for a U.S. release The crowds inside, which included Lake today. On hand at the Montblanc-sponsored Bell, Carol Alt, Devon Church and Aleksa Palladino, screening, followed by an after party at the made a sort of shimmying line dance in their Soho Grand, were Rachel Roy, Rose Byrne, Elettra attempt to gain access to one of the two bars. Wiedemann, Stavros Niarchos, Amanda Brooks, Patricia Clarkson abstained from the hoedown Duncan Sheik, Elisa Sednaoui, Amy Sacco, Lorenzo to embrace Ryan, and enthusiastically praise Martone and Gabourey Sidibe, who was reunited her turn in “a wonderful fi lm: everyone was with “Precious” screenwriter Geoffrey Fletcher. spectacular.” Lisa Marie Falcone, resplendent “It reminded me how mean teenage girls can in a fringed Tom Ford frock in Yves Klein be and I’m relieved that my parents wouldn’t ANDREW TOTH/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; WIEDEMANN BY ANDREW TOTH/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM;

blue snuggled up to Cannavale for a photo op let me go to boarding school,” said Nicole Miller, BY (the latter’s family was present, with his teen who, in contrast to the fi lm, fondly remem- son Jake all grins for much of the evening). bered her favorite painting teacher at Rhode Eva Green in Tom Ford. John Slattery was on hand, munching on the Island School of Design, Richard Merkin. GREEN PHOTO