PLUS: MILESTONE MARKERS NEW MUSE Estée Lauder signs model Arizona Muse. PAGE 6 MARVIN AND LEE TRAUB AND SIR PAUL SMITH WERE ALL FETED AT EVENTS IN NEW YORK. PAGE 10 ODD COUPLE Uniqlo, Dover Street Link Tokyo Flagships By AMANDA KAISER and KELLY WETHERILLE TOKYO — Rei, meet Tadashi. WWD In what might be seen as an odd fashion pairing, Rei Kawakubo’s Dover Street Market has opened a FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 store here that connects to the largest Uniqlo flagship to date. Both stores held opening parties Thursday be- fore opening to the public today. Tadashi Yanai’s Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. considers the 12-story, 53,000-square-foot store in the shopping district of Ginza to be its eighth “global flagship,” joining the ranks of its two stores in New York as well as those in London; Paris; Shanghai; Osaka, Japan; Seoul, and Taipei, Taiwan. “When we opened the store on New York’s Fifth Avenue, I thought that we had realized the American dream. In Japan’s Ginza it’s the same thing — I think it’s a symbol of the Japanese dream,” Yanai, chair- man, president and chief executive officer of Fast Retailing, said at a press conference. “Being able to open our newest and largest global flagship store in Ginza…is really the most exciting thing [possible].” The executive said the store is aiming for annual sales of 10 billion yen, or $119.94 million, which he admits is an ambitious target. The Uniqlo and Dover Street stores are two of the more ambitious retail openings in Tokyo as of late. While Yanai spoke of the importance of Japan and the significant business opportunities that exist here, he also lashed out at the Japanese government and expressed a dour outlook for the country. “Unfortunately, because of things such as the aging and shrinking [population], as well as a sluggish admin- istration that has reached its limits, I think the nation [of Japan] has become a closed state,” said the executive. “If I really look at it objectively, I’m very pessimistic.” Yanai said Uniqlo will continue its aggressive push into Asia. In June, the brand will open its first outpost in the Philippines. Yanai said he would also like to move into Indonesia, Australia and India in the near future. “Now, I think the middle class in America and Europe SEE PAGE 5 The Donald Talks Ralph’s By PETE BORN THERE’S NOTHING TIMID about The Donald: Get ready for a Trump fragrance sequel. Eight years after the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. intro- New R ide duced Donald Trump The Fragrance, the real estate mogul and reality TV star is returning with Success by Trump, this time under the auspices of The Five Star Fragrance Co. With his newest fragrance quartet, Ralph Lauren is “The last one did well but it was really meant more betting on the ponies: the Big Pony Collection for for our product, for my company,” he said during a re- Women, that is. Each of the scents is intended to cent interview atop Trump Tower that touched on his political ambitions, his real estate empire, the power celebrate a different facet of a woman’s personality. In of branding and how every celebrity has his day. “I the U.S., the fragrances will have a two-week exclusive wanted to do a fragrance for all of my clubs, all my at Bloomingdale’s before rolling into full distribution of buildings and all of my everything. And we still use it,” Trump added. “This one [the second] is meant for about 2,500 doors in April. Industry sources estimate that also, but it’s going to be a much more internation- that the scents could do $40 million at retail in the U.S. al fragrance. We’re going to go much bigger with it.” in their first year on counter. For more, see page 6. To Trump, the first fragrance was a success in his outlets. But back in November 2004, the level of hype promised much more. It was a time when Trump fever was in full boil, two years after Jennifer Lopez set the fragrance world on fire with Glow, and the celebrity gold rush was in full tilt. Yet, the fragrance fizzled: It reportedly did only a fraction of what had been specu- lated, according to published accounts at the time and industry sources. It eventually dropped out of the news. This time will be very different, vowed Rafael Villoldo, vice president of Perfumania Holdings Inc., the par- ent company of Five Star Fragrance Co. The position- ing of the fragrance is based “on more than his name PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY AMY LOMACCHIO SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012 WWD.COM Qatar Holding Buys Stake in LVMH THE BRIEFING BOX brothers relates to LVMH’s acqui- Last year, Qatar became the By MILES SOCHA sition last March of 50.4 percent of largest shareholder in French IN TODAY’S WWD Bulgari from the company’s larg- media group Lagardère, with a PARIS — Qatar Holding LLC — est shareholder, the Bulgari family, 10.07 percent stake. Last month, the owner of Harrods in London in a cash-and-share swap valued the investment house said it ac- — holds a 1.03 percent stake in at more than $6 billion in March. quired the London headquarters Diane von Furstenberg French luxury giant LVMH Moët That deal made the Bulgaris the of Credit Suisse at One Cabot and Narciso Rodriguez Hennessy Louis Vuitton. second-largest family shareholder Square in Canary Wharf. The investment is revealed in in the French firm behind LVMH Qatar Holding has invest- 2011 financial documents filed chairman and chief executive of- ments in a range of companies Thursday with the AMF, France’s ficer Bernard Arnault. including Barclays, London Stock market authority. As of Dec. 31, Arnault and his Exchange, Volkswagen, Porsche Investors are obliged to inform family hold 46.5 percent of the and J Sainsbury plc, according to LVMH once they cross the 1 per- share capital and 62.4 percent of its Web site. cent shareholding threshold. Others voting rights at the world’s larg- Credit Suisse recently rein- to have done so last year include est luxury goods firm, according stated coverage of LVMH, assign- Paolo Bulgari and Nicola Bulgari, to the financial document. ing it an “outperform” rating and as well as the companies Amundi, In 2011, revenues at LVMH ad- characterizing it as a “high-qual- MFS, BNP Paribas SA and BNP vanced 16 percent to 23.66 billion ity, core holding offering the most EICHNER Paribas Asset Management, the euros, or $32.94 billion, as reported. balanced and diversified portfo- STEVE 268-page document details. It Qatar Holding, established lio in the sector thanks to several BY notes that Qatar holds less than 1 in 2006, invests on behalf of the leading brands with global scal- percent of voting rights. State of Qatar and is linked to the ability into emerging markets PHOTO The stake held by the Bulgari royal family of the Gulf nation. and attractive margins.” Donald Trump talks about his newest men’s fragrance, aptly titled Success by Trump. PAGE 1 Requiem’s Borriello Said Headed to Leonard Dover Street Market has opened a store in Tokyo that connects to the largest Uniqlo flagship to date. PAGE 1 PARIS — Could Raffaele Borriello ed to part ways with Leonard after show- — co-founder of the Paris fashion A look ing only one collection for the house. Salvatore Ferragamo Group closed the year of its public label Requiem — be the heir appar- from Simoens and Leonard executives listing with a 69.8 percent increase in net profit. PAGE 2 ent at Leonard? Requiem. shrugged off the report at their show According to market sources, during Paris Fashion Week. Benetton Group’s net profit was down 28.3 percent in Borriello is poised to succeed It is understood Simoens has held the year ended Dec. 31. PAGE 4 Maxime Simoens at the design helm talks with Christian Dior, still without a of the French fashion house known creative director since the ouster a year Edward Lampert, chairman of Sears Holdings Corp. and for its orchid prints on silk jersey. ago of couturier John Galliano in the ESL Investments, has found a way to guarantee shipments Leonard officials had no comment wake of racist and anti-Semitic outbursts. by vendors to Sears and Kmart units. PAGE 4 Thursday. MAITRE Simoens has repeatedly denied to WWD Borriello founded Requiem in 2005 that he has had any contact with Dior. Casual Male Retail Group Inc. is jumping further into with Julien Desselle, who departed Dior has yet to reveal any plans re- PAGE 5 the label in 2009 to pursue architec- DOMINIQUE garding its creative leadership, and the the red-hot tailored clothing business. BY ture. Both men had previously been firm continues to enjoy strong business designers at Gucci Group brands. momentum with its design teams under Ralph Lauren is riding back into the women’s fragrance PHOTO It is understood Borriello recently the creative leadership of Bill Gaytten, a arena with the Big Pony Collection for Women. PAGE 6 shuttered the Requiem label, known for its Forties- longtime collaborator of Galliano. flavored and ladylike Parisian chic, after losing fi- The company is said to be mulling continuing The Estée Lauder brand has tapped Arizona Muse as the nancial backing. with a team approach, possibly adding some young, face for skin care, makeup and fragrance advertising.