PLUS: MILESTONE MARKERS NEW MUSE Estée Lauder signs model Arizona Muse. PAGE 6 MARVIN AND LEE TRAUB AND SIR PAUL SMITH WERE ALL FETED AT EVENTS IN NEW YORK. PAGE 10

ODD COUPLE Uniqlo, Dover Street Link Tokyo Flagships

By AMANDA KAISER and KELLY WETHERILLE

TOKYO — Rei, meet Tadashi. WWD In what might be seen as an odd fashion pairing, Rei Kawakubo’s Dover Street Market has opened a FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 store here that connects to the largest Uniqlo flagship to date. Both stores held opening parties Thursday be- fore opening to the public today. Tadashi Yanai’s Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. considers the 12-story, 53,000-square-foot store in the shopping district of Ginza to be its eighth “global flagship,” joining the ranks of its two stores in New York as well as those in London; Paris; Shanghai; Osaka, Japan; Seoul, and Taipei, Taiwan. “When we opened the store on New York’s Fifth Avenue, I thought that we had realized the American dream. In Japan’s Ginza it’s the same thing — I think it’s a symbol of the Japanese dream,” Yanai, chair- man, president and chief executive officer of Fast Retailing, said at a press conference. “Being able to open our newest and largest global flagship store in Ginza…is really the most exciting thing [possible].” The executive said the store is aiming for annual sales of 10 billion yen, or $119.94 million, which he admits is an ambitious target. The Uniqlo and Dover Street stores are two of the more ambitious retail openings in Tokyo as of late. While Yanai spoke of the importance of Japan and the significant business opportunities that exist here, he also lashed out at the Japanese government and expressed a dour outlook for the country. “Unfortunately, because of things such as the aging and shrinking [population], as well as a sluggish admin- istration that has reached its limits, I think the nation [of Japan] has become a closed state,” said the executive. “If I really look at it objectively, I’m very pessimistic.” Yanai said Uniqlo will continue its aggressive push into Asia. In June, the brand will open its first outpost in the Philippines. Yanai said he would also like to move into Indonesia, Australia and India in the near future. “Now, I think the middle class in America and Europe SEE PAGE 5 The Donald Talks

Ralph’s By PETE BORN

THERE’S NOTHING TIMID about The Donald: Get ready for a Trump fragrance sequel. Eight years after the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. intro- New R ide duced Donald Trump The Fragrance, the real estate mogul and reality TV star is returning with Success by Trump, this time under the auspices of The Five Star Fragrance Co. With his newest fragrance quartet, Ralph Lauren is “The last one did well but it was really meant more betting on the ponies: the Big Pony Collection for for our product, for my company,” he said during a re- Women, that is. Each of the scents is intended to cent interview atop Trump Tower that touched on his political ambitions, his real estate empire, the power celebrate a different facet of a woman’s personality. In of branding and how every celebrity has his day. “I the U.S., the fragrances will have a two-week exclusive wanted to do a fragrance for all of my clubs, all my at Bloomingdale’s before rolling into full distribution of buildings and all of my everything. And we still use it,” Trump added. “This one [the second] is meant for about 2,500 doors in April. Industry sources estimate that also, but it’s going to be a much more internation- that the scents could do $40 million at retail in the U.S. al fragrance. We’re going to go much bigger with it.” in their first year on counter. For more, see page 6. To Trump, the first fragrance was a success in his outlets. But back in November 2004, the level of hype promised much more. It was a time when Trump fever was in full boil, two years after Jennifer Lopez set the fragrance world on fire with Glow, and the celebrity gold rush was in full tilt. Yet, the fragrance fizzled: It reportedly did only a fraction of what had been specu- lated, according to published accounts at the time and industry sources. It eventually dropped out of the news. This time will be very different, vowed Rafael Villoldo, vice president of Perfumania Holdings Inc., the par- ent company of Five Star Fragrance Co. The position- ing of the fragrance is based “on more than his name PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY AMY LOMACCHIO SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012 WWD.COM Qatar Holding Buys Stake in LVMH THE BRIEFING BOX brothers relates to LVMH’s acqui- Last year, Qatar became the By MILES SOCHA sition last March of 50.4 percent of largest shareholder in French IN TODAY’S WWD Bulgari from the company’s larg- media group Lagardère, with a PARIS — Qatar Holding LLC — est shareholder, the Bulgari family, 10.07 percent stake. Last month, the owner of Harrods in London in a cash-and-share swap valued the investment house said it ac- — holds a 1.03 percent stake in at more than $6 billion in March. quired the London headquarters Diane von Furstenberg French luxury giant LVMH Moët That deal made the Bulgaris the of Credit Suisse at One Cabot and Narciso Rodriguez Hennessy Louis Vuitton. second-largest family shareholder Square in Canary Wharf. The investment is revealed in in the French firm behind LVMH Qatar Holding has invest- 2011 financial documents filed chairman and chief executive of- ments in a range of companies Thursday with the AMF, France’s ficer Bernard Arnault. including Barclays, London Stock market authority. As of Dec. 31, Arnault and his Exchange, Volkswagen, Porsche Investors are obliged to inform family hold 46.5 percent of the and J Sainsbury plc, according to LVMH once they cross the 1 per- share capital and 62.4 percent of its Web site. cent shareholding threshold. Others voting rights at the world’s larg- Credit Suisse recently rein- to have done so last year include est luxury goods firm, according stated coverage of LVMH, assign- Paolo Bulgari and Nicola Bulgari, to the financial document. ing it an “outperform” rating and as well as the companies Amundi, In 2011, revenues at LVMH ad- characterizing it as a “high-qual- MFS, BNP Paribas SA and BNP vanced 16 percent to 23.66 billion ity, core holding offering the most EICHNER Paribas Asset Management, the euros, or $32.94 billion, as reported. balanced and diversified portfo- STEVE

268-page document details. It Qatar Holding, established lio in the sector thanks to several BY notes that Qatar holds less than 1 in 2006, invests on behalf of the leading brands with global scal- percent of voting rights. State of Qatar and is linked to the ability into emerging markets PHOTO The stake held by the Bulgari royal family of the Gulf nation. and attractive margins.” Donald Trump talks about his newest men’s fragrance, aptly titled Success by Trump. PAGE 1

Requiem’s Borriello Said Headed to Leonard Dover Street Market has opened a store in Tokyo that connects to the largest Uniqlo flagship to date. PAGE 1 PARIS — Could Raffaele Borriello ed to part ways with Leonard after show- — co-founder of the Paris fashion A look ing only one collection for the house. Salvatore Ferragamo Group closed the year of its public label Requiem — be the heir appar- from Simoens and Leonard executives listing with a 69.8 percent increase in net profit. PAGE 2 ent at Leonard? Requiem. shrugged off the report at their show According to market sources, during Paris Fashion Week. Benetton Group’s net profit was down 28.3 percent in Borriello is poised to succeed It is understood Simoens has held the year ended Dec. 31. PAGE 4 Maxime Simoens at the design helm talks with Christian Dior, still without a of the French fashion house known creative director since the ouster a year Edward Lampert, chairman of Sears Holdings Corp. and for its orchid prints on silk jersey. ago of couturier John Galliano in the ESL Investments, has found a way to guarantee shipments Leonard officials had no comment wake of racist and anti-Semitic outbursts. by vendors to Sears and Kmart units. PAGE 4 MAITRE Thursday. Simoens has repeatedly denied to WWD Borriello founded Requiem in 2005 that he has had any contact with Dior. Casual Male Retail Group Inc. is jumping further into with Julien Desselle, who departed Dior has yet to reveal any plans re- PAGE 5 the label in 2009 to pursue architec- DOMINIQUE garding its creative leadership, and the the red-hot tailored clothing business.

BY ture. Both men had previously been firm continues to enjoy strong business designers at Gucci Group brands. momentum with its design teams under Ralph Lauren is riding back into the women’s fragrance PHOTO It is understood Borriello recently the creative leadership of Bill Gaytten, a arena with the Big Pony Collection for Women. PAGE 6 shuttered the Requiem label, known for its Forties- longtime collaborator of Galliano. flavored and ladylike Parisian chic, after losing fi- The company is said to be mulling continuing The Estée Lauder brand has tapped Arizona Muse as the nancial backing. with a team approach, possibly adding some young, face for skin care, makeup and fragrance advertising. PAGE 6 WWD reported on March 5 that Simoens is expect- up-and-coming talents. — M.S. Avon Products Inc. may have its problems, but its competitor, Nu Skin Enterprises Inc., is making the Ferragamo Net Profit Climbs 69.8% in Year direct-selling model fire on all cylinders. PAGE 8

very hard on this area.” will not be effective before 2013. Marcus Samuelsson introduces the newest addition to By LUISA ZARGANI North America showed a 27.2 In 2011, the company invested his Harlem empire with Ginny’s, a glamorous, swinging percent rise, accounting for 22.4 42.3 million euros, or $58.8 million, supper club right under Red Rooster. PAGE 10 MILAN — Salvatore Ferragamo percent of sales. up 94.8 percent compared with the Group closed the year of its pub- The Japanese market, despite previous year, mainly aimed at ex- Sir Paul Smith threw himself a booming birthday bash lic listing with flying colors, re- last year’s earthquake and nuclear panding and refurbishing stores in Wednesday night to celebrate the 25th anniversary of porting a 69.8 percent increase disaster, posted a 0.8 percent rise key locations, in addition to proj- his Flatiron District retail store in New York. PAGE 10 in net profit. in revenues, helped by a favorable ects such as e-commerce. Boosted by worldwide growth, exchange rate. Sales in Central and Of note were 10 openings in Marvin and Lee Traub were honored at The Martha the bottom line at the Florence- South America grew 34.6 percent. Mainland China, where the group Graham Dance Company’s annual gala, which involved based fashion house reached 103.3 In terms of product, footwear is now present in 34 cities with a performance at New York City Center and dinner at million euros, or $143.6 million sales rose 32.6 percent, followed by 60 doors. The group also opened PAGE 10 at average exchange, in the 12 handbags and leather accessories stores in other emerging markets The Russian Tea Room. months ended Dec. 31. This figure up 26.8 percent, accounting for such as Australia, Taiwan, Kuwait, included minority interest profit of around 74 percent of total sales. Peru and Colombia. Ferragamo ON WWD.COM 22 million euros, or $30.5 million. As of Dec. 31, Ferragamo had doubled the size of its Milan men’s Revenues rose 26.2 percent to 323 directly operated stores. Retail unit in Via Montenapoleone, and AND THE NOMINEES ARE: The nominees and special 986.4 million euros, or $1.37 billion, sales grew 21.2 percent to 658.3 expanded its banners in Brussels honorees for the 2012 CFDA Fashion Awards were compared with the previous year. million euros, or $915 million. The and Prague, and, in the U.S., in announced at Diane von Furstenberg’s studio. During a conference call wholesale and travel retail chan- Atlanta and Las Vegas. Norsa said For more photos, see WWD.com/fashion-news. with analysts, chief executive nel climbed 40.4 percent to 313.1 that a boutique in New York, two officer Michele Norsa trum- million euros, or $435.2 million. in London and one in Munich are peted Ferragamo’s heritage in “Travel retail is on a solid growth being refurbished. “During our TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. helping to drive business and trend and expansion,” said Norsa. road show, we promised investors WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. China’s role as a “major engine Although affected by costs as- we would renovate and enlarge COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. of growth, not only locally but ev- sociated with the listing, which stores and this is a fundamental VOLUME 203, NO. 55. FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, erywhere in the world.” totaled about 5 million euros, or project for 2012, too,” said Norsa. March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Except for Japan, revenues by $6.9 million, and a 32 percent The group has also continued Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, geographical area rose globally increase in investments in com- its expansion into the digital world Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at close to or higher than 30 percent. munication, operating costs only with the launch of e-commerce New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses Asia-Pacific was confirmed as grew 17.5 percent to 476.8 million stores in Korea, Turkey, Ukraine, to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S the group’s main market, with euros, or $662.7 million. Mexico and Canada, in addition to WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, sales of 357.7 million euros, or As of Dec. 31, net debt stood at the 28 European countries and the call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent $497.2 million, up 33.5 percent 29.4 million euros, or $40.8 mil- U.S. already served by the plat- label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless compared with the previous year, lion, compared with 18.2 million form since the end of 2009. we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on and accounting for 36.3 percent of euros, or $25.3 million, at the end The company said, “The rev- all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all total revenues. China’s retail chan- of December 2010, due to inclusion enue figures recorded in the editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints nel recorded 44 percent growth. in the accounting of a financial first part of the current year jus- of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Despite the lackluster econo- debt of 44.2 million euros, or $61.4 tify expectations for significant www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that my in Europe, the region posted million. This takes into account growth also throughout 2012, in we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at a 30.8 percent gain. Norsa said Ferragamo’s acquisition of shares the absence of severely unfavor- P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED the growth derived not only from in Imaginex Group, controlled by able market conditions.” ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER tourists from emerging markets, Hong Kong businessman Peter Woo Ferragamo shares closed UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR but also “from a very strong oper- — a financial debt of 39.9 million down 1.62 percent at 15.20 euros, DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A ational improvement. We worked euros, or $55.8 million, although it or $19.84, on Thursday. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. © Clinique Laboratories, LLC If you have skin, dry meet alife-changer. Always feel your skin needs more moisture? feels strong, supple, susceptible less to outside influences. Feel comfortably plumped, even 24 hours after you put it on. Use it faithfully and skin Moisture Surge Intense Surge Moisture can change that. 4 WwD FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012

A view of the store. Lampert, ESL Assure Of Shipments to Sears ESL, but we see this as a sign of By Vicki M. Young ESL’s continued confidence in our company.” Edward Lampert, chairman of ESL and Lampert together Sears Holdings Corp. and its top hold a 62 percent stake in Sears’ shareholder, ESL Investments, equity. The two also own $350 have found a way to guarantee million of the retailer’s out- shipments by vendors to Sears standing debt for fiscal year and Kmart units, even as appar- 2011 ended Jan. 28. el is being pulled from a small Sears since January has been number of Sears stores. plagued by factoring issues for The company said in its an- trade receivables. Many of those nual report, or Form 10-K, filed orders pertain to apparel, which with the Securities and Exchange comprises a smaller slice of the Commission on Wednesday, that retailer’s merchandise offerings ESL inked a deal with a financial when compared with its hard- institution on Jan. 26 to acquire lines inventory. from the unnamed firm a partici- Separately, the spokesman pating interest in certain rights said a small number of Sears and obligations under “trade re- stores are reallocating floor space ceivable put agreements.” to better meet the needs of local Essentially the rights gen- shoppers. “Additional details on erally don’t spring until Sears those categories will be available N.H. Site of First L&T Unit in Decade has filed for bankruptcy, after as we get closer to the transition, which the financial institution but we can confirm at this time [Mass.]. Also, there’s no other specialty depart- will buy the vendors’ accounts that a larger array of mattresses By Sharon Edelson ment store in the mall.” Anchors at Rockingham receivable for goods or services and recliners are among the more include Macy’s, Sears and J.C. Penney. sold to Sears. ESL in turn may popular items being offered. Lord & Taylor’s first new full-line store The Mall at Rockingham Park, which is oper- choose to purchase an 80 per- Sears clothing and related cate- to open in more than a decade bows today in ated by Simon Property Group Inc., is close to cent participating interest in the gories will still be offered to local Salem, N.H. the Massachusetts border. With no general sales rights arising under future trade customers on sears.com, with pre- The 122,000-square-foot unit at the Mall at tax in New Hampshire, the Mall at Rockingham, receivable put agreements. The views of our top fashion brands Rockingham Park is the retailer’s first store in the largest shopping center in the state, attracts deal is strictly between ESL and and trends from around the world Northern New England. L&T said 136 employees consumers from across state lines. the financial institution. The found at searsstyle.com,” he said. were hired to staff the unit. With a three-story escalator atrium that lets regulatory filing said that, as of A credit analyst, who noted that A second full-line L&T store is set to open on natural light stream into the store, the two-lev- Jan. 28, ESL holds participating the number of stores slated to lose April 13 in Yonkers, N.Y. el Salem unit features Lord & Taylor’s newest interests totaling $93.3 million. apparel is under one dozen sites, “We’re really confident about that mar- store design, which the company said mirrors its Sears is not a party to any called the move “no big deal.” ket,” said Bonnie Brooks, president of L&T’s recent renovation of the Fifth Avenue flagship. of the agreements. The retailer Sears said in December it Canadian parent, Hudson’s Bay Co., referring to “The Salem store has a lot more white space is the beneficiary of the agree- planned to close between 100 Salem. “It’s a metropolitan area, so the custom- than a traditional L&T and a bit of a more mod- ments as they guarantee pay- and 120 Kmart and Sears full- er is young, average age of 40, upwardly mobile ern feel,” Brooks said. “There are some inter- ment to vendors should the com- line stores, or roughly 5 percent and fashion conscious with a high level of brand esting new aspects in men’s and women’s. The pany file for bankruptcy. of its 2,200 full-line store sites. awareness. It’s the perfect target customer for store feels like a modern updated contempo- A spokesman for Sears said, — With contributions Lord & Taylor.” rary space.” “Obviously, we do not speak for from E.C. Brooks said Stuart Weitzman, L.K. Bennett, Simon has been seeking an anchor for the Vera Wang footwear, Theory, Marc by Marc mall since 2006, when the center’s original Jacobs, Kiehl’s and Trish McEvoy, “our most Macy’s (formerly Jordan Marsh) closed and forward designers,” are exclusive to L&T in the moved into a space previously occupied by Salem area. Filene’s. “Both companies have been working Benetton Profits Slide 28.3% Brooks, who oversees the merchandise, mar- on this for a couple of years,” Brooks said. “They end-of-season sales. Looking keting and store operations of L&T and The Bay [Simon] were very instrumental in putting us By LUISA ZARGANI ahead, the group expects a in Canada, said the Mall at Rockingham Park into this shopping center.” “good sales performance only was attractive to L&T because “the nearest store New Hampshire Governor John Lynch is ex- MILAN — Higher raw mate- in emerging and high-growth to that market is 30 minutes away in Burlington pected at Lord & Taylor’s opening. rial costs and lower consumer countries, with increases in con- spending in the Mediterranean sumption throughout 2012.” area dragged Benetton Group’s Benetton also expects spring- net profit down 28.3 percent to summer orders could close “with 73 million euros, or $101.4 mil- a slight downward trend com- A&F Stock Weakness Invites Speculation lion, in the year ended Dec. pared with the comparative col- Abercrombie has an enterprise value of $3.92 31, compared with 102 million lections in the previous year.” By EVAN CLARK billion with earnings before interest, taxes, de- euros, or $134.6 million, in 2010. On the bright side, the com- preciation and amortization for the past four Revenues decreased 1 percent pany recorded a slowdown in the Abercrombie & Fitch Co.’s sagging stock quarters of $461.1 million. to 2.03 billion, or $2.82 billion. price inflation of cotton, “with price has Wall Street speculating about a lever- That’s an enterprise value to EBITDA ratio of Dollar amounts have been con- potential positive effects as from aged buyout of the racy teen retailer. 8.5 and Kernan said a private equity could pay verted at average exchange for the the second half of the year.” The firm has been through the rumor mill a ratio of about 11 — a roughly 30 percent pre- periods to which they refer. However, Benetton said it several times now and Cowen and Co. analyst mium, or an overall price of about $6.2 billion. To balance lackluster sales was not forecasting an improve- John Kernan ran the numbers for a buyout As investors buzzed about Abercrombie, most in more established markets, ment in net and operating profit today and found that the economics of a deal other retailers and fashion firms logged gains, Benetton accelerated growth due to “the pressure on rev- “can’t be denied.” including Sears Holdings Corp., up 4.3 percent outside Europe, posting a 10 enues” and the “increased cost In part, that’s because the stock is still pick- to $83.43; Aéropostale Inc., 4.3 percent to $21.33; percent gain in sales in emerg- of indebtedness.” ing itself back up after the company missed The Jones Group Inc., 2.6 percent to $11.20, and ing countries, which accounted Earlier this month, Consob, earnings projections in the fall, when chairman Lululemon Athletica Inc., 2.5 percent to $74.24. for 26 percent of total revenues. Italy’s equivalent of the and chief executive officer Michael Jeffries de- In Europe, markets were also up with the Investments last year totaled Securities and Exchange clared, “We are not immune to the macroeco- exception of the FTSE 100 in London, which 102 million euros, or $141.7 mil- Commission, gave Benetton’s nomic environment.” slipped 0.1 percent to 5,940.72. lion, compared with 122 million parent company, Edizione Srl, The stock slipped 1.2 percent to $52.87 today, Debt watchdog Fitch Ratings warned the euros, or $161 million, in 2010, the green light to proceed with and is down 31.8 percent since its high last fall country could lose its “AAA” rating in the next focused primarily on the devel- the tender offer to buy the 25.15 of $77.49. On Wednesday, Abercrombie saw a few years if it doesn’t keep public debt under opment of the group’s sales net- percent of Benetton shares not late-day gain on rumors that big private equity control. George Osborne, Britain’s Chancellor work, including the remodeling owned by the Benetton family at firms were looking at the company. of the Exchequer, will lay out the country’s 2012 of a number of flagships in main 4.60 euros, or $6 at current ex- As shares of Abercrombie have fought their budget next week. capitals such as Paris, Milan and change, each. The process will way back from their slump this year, the broad The DAX in Frankfurt rose 0.9 percent at London, and openings in emerg- run until March 30. retail sector has repeatedly charged to new 7,144.45, while the FTSE MIB in Milan increased ing markets such as Mexico and In February, the Benetton highs. The S&P Retail Index rose 0.5 percent, 0.9 percent 16,993.31, and the CAC 40 in Paris ad- Russia. As of Dec. 31, net debt family said Edizione was plan- or 2.83 points, to 606.69 — the index’s best close vanced 0.4 percent to 3,580.21. stood at 548 million euros, or ning to launch a tender offer and ever. The Dow Jones Industrial Average perked The day’s biggest gainers included Tod’s, $761.7 million, compared with delist the Italian clothing and tex- up 0.4 percent, or 58.66 points, to 13,252.76. which increased 2.7 percent to 84.25 euros; 486 million euros, or $641.5 mil- tile manufacturer with the goal While Cowen’s Kernan said it was doubtful Metro, 2.7 percent to 30.57 euros, and French lion, at the end of 2010. of taking the company private. management was looking to sell, “The economics Connection, 2.5 percent to 0.52 pounds. In its outlook for the year, Benetton, which went public in of the transaction seem intriguing given a domes- The euro traded at $1.31 while the pound Benetton said 2012 “opened 1986, is a small part of Edizione’s tic business ripe for some type of restructuring, traded at $1.57. with moderately positive results holdings that range from highway and an international business that would proba- — With contributions in terms of direct sales in almost catering and communications to bly benefit from less scrutiny of public investors.” from SAMANTHA CONTI all countries,” also due to strong real estate and agriculture.

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brand’s full range of products, including men’s and women’s wear, as well as apparel for babies and kids. One floor car- ries the UT line of hip, graphic T-shirts, which were relocated from Uniqlo’s old Harajuku store, which shuttered its doors earlier this month. Another level houses the debut col- lection of UU, designed by Undercover’s Jun Takahashi. The store replaces Uniqlo’s former Ginza flagship, which was located just down the road until it closed recently. Two elevated passageways

uga on the fourth and seventh floors s of the store allow shoppers to ka visit Kawakubo’s latest mul- Tadashi Yanai

yukie tibrand emporium of goods, by which stocks an extensive list Kawakubo’s and offered them the of luxury labels such as Louis space. Uniqlo’s occupation of the

photoS Vuitton, Celine, Maison Martin front building on the main street Inside Uniqlo. Margiela, Rick Owens and Yves was a happenstance, he said, and Saint Laurent. Dover Street the passageways were just part of Market comprises six levels of the existing structure. retail space. There are dedi- “It was one of her favorite Uniqlo Melds With Dover Street cated corners for a host of eclec- department stores. She used to tic brands, including Givenchy, come here with her mother in the Marni, Undercover, Nike, A Fifties and Sixties,” he said, add- {Continued from page one} mass market player for budget- window displays and minimalist Bathing Ape, Thom Browne, ing that Comme des Garçons liked is about 800 million people. In the conscious shoppers, and bring interiors of brushed metal and Alexander McQueen and the idea of shaking up a conserva- next 10 years, I think the middle it more in line with its profile wood flooring. Uniqlo’s longtime Supreme, reinterpreted through tive neighborhood like Ginza. class in Asia will be double that,” in international markets. Like creative figure, Kashiwa Sato, the eyes of Comme des Garçons’ Joffe went on to state that Yanai said. “The consumer so- its global flagships elsewhere, and Masamichi Katayama of Kawakubo. On the top level, 10 the company’s next big project ciety, which has been centered the Tokyo store features a gen- Wonderwall designed the store. Corso Como has its own outpost, will be the opening of a Dover around the West until now, will erous use of LED lights, large The store’s 12 floors carry the while the third floor houses Street Market in New York in shift to being Asia-centric.” a quirky Kim Jones-designed July 2013. He said it is too soon The executive is particular- Louis Vuitton corner featuring to reveal the location as the pa- ly upbeat about China, where mannequins with cat heads. perwork has not been finalized. Uniqlo has more than 100 stores. “It’s the same concept as “I think New York should be “I’m different from the aver- Dover Street Market London. prepared for us,” he said. age person; I think China holds We just brought it to Tokyo. Jones spoke enthusiastically almost no risk. For example, no Beautiful chaos,” said Adrian of working with the Comme des matter what kind of economic Joffe, ceo of Comme des Garçons team. system or what kind of govern- Garçons. “We tried to choose “I collaborated with them a ment it may have, the people strong designers, luxury brands, long time ago, when Dover Street want to have a good livelihood,” street brands, anybody with a Market opened in London, but Yanai said. “I don’t think that strong point of view, anybody obviously, this is on a very differ- will change. And I think life will who has a vision.” ent scale. With Vuitton, it’s such a continue to improve. The oppor- The Dover Street Market and big company, but with this space tunity is in the human skill.” Uniqlo stores occupy a building we can show different sides of the The new Uniqlo store is a that was formerly the home of brand at different times,” he said. clear attempt to elevate the the Komatsu department store, “Rei is so forward-thinking. She’s brand’s image on its home turf, Joffe said, explaining that the amazing — she’s the coolest per- where it is still considered a Komatsu owner is an old friend of son in the world for me.”

Casual Male to Boost Tailored Biz OBITUARY

On the DXL front, this concept, Rochester stores,” said chief finan- Lawrence Wechsler, 86 By JEAN E. PALMIERI and which brings together the best as- cial officer Dennis Hernreich. ARNOLD J. KARR sortments from the company’s Casual Levin also revealed that the com- By Pete Born Male XL, Rochester Clothing and pany’s test to operate in-store B&T Casual Male Retail Group Inc. B&T Factory Direct under one roof, shops with 15 Bon-Ton stores last A memorial service will be held Monday for long- is jumping further into the red-hot continues to outperform. The com- year is being halted. Casual Male time Revlon executive Lawrence Wechsler, who head- tailored clothing business. pany currently operates 16 of these will continue to sell B&T product on ed many of the company’s prestige market businesses During its fourth-quarter earnings superstores. This year, Levin said, the Bon-Ton Web site. before retiring on July 31, 1991. call Thursday morning, David Levin, the company will open about 35 During the three months ended Wechsler died Thursday of heart and respiratory chief executive officer, said the com- stores while closing 70 Casual Male Jan. 28, the retailer saw net income failure at his retirement home in Boca Grande, Fla., pany is moving to increase tailored stores. “[This] will give us a national increase more than sixfold to $33.5 according to a family friend, Jean Zimmerman. He clothing’s share of its business to 30 footprint with 51 DXL stores and at million, or 70 cents a diluted share, was 86. percent from 20 percent to capitalize least one store located in most major from $5.3 million, or 11 cents, in the Wechsler was a surviving member of the genera- on the popularity of the category. metropolitan cities across the United prior-year quarter. Stripping out a tion of executives molded by Revlon founder Charles “A key initiative for 2012 is the States.” He stressed, however, that the charge for trademark impairment Revson, who recruited Wechsler in 1961. During his increase in penetration in our cloth- store closures “are based on the natu- as well as a benefit from the rever- 30-year tenure with Revlon, Wechsler served in a se- ing categories,” he told analysts on ral expirations of the lease terms.” sal of a valuation allowance, adjust- ries of marketing and top management positions, in- a Thursday morning conference call By the end of the current year, ed earnings per share came to 10 cluding president of the Borghese, Ultima and Fine after the company released better- he added, the DXL stores are ex- cents in the quarter, 2 cents above Fragrance group of brands and president of Revlon than-expected fourth-quarter earn- pected to generate about 30 per- Wall Street’s expectations. Cosmetics and Fragrances, U.S. He was in charge of ings. “Historically, it’s been about 20 cent of overall company sales, a fig- Revenues were flat at $111.5 mil- the department store division, known as Group III. percent of our sales. As we’ve been ure that will jump to 50 percent by lion, on par with analysts’ estimates, After he retired, Wechsler taught at Parsons School a casual sportswear-driven com- the end of 2013. By the end of 2015, while comparable-store sales moved of Design for 10 years, and consulted at Christian Dior pany, clothing never really got the Casual Male Retail Group expects up 0.8 percent as comp increases de- cosmetics and fragrances. real estate, assortments or customer to have 150 to 175 DXL locations celerated in the second half of the Born in Brooklyn, Wechsler served on the boards of service that it needed. With the DXL with the eventual goal to expand to year. Pressured by markdowns in the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (now [Destination XL] concept, however, 250 stores. a highly promotional environment, the Personal Care Products Council) and other industry we have the space to make these That will include the company’s gross margin pulled back 70 basis organizations, as well as the New School and the New categories something special and first store in Kuwait, a unit that will points to 44.7 percent of sales. School of Jazz. we believe we can grow their pen- be operated through a franchise For the full year, net income, in- Wechsler is survived by his wife of 37 years, Jan etration over time to 30 percent, and agreement with Standard Arabian cluding nonrecurring items, nearly Dean Wechsler; his son, Bradley J. Wechsler, and this will be accomplished through Business and Enterprise Co. tripled to $42.7 million, or 89 cents his wife, Patty Newburger; three grandchildren, enhanced selections, associate Within three years, this will leave a diluted share, from $15.4 million, Samantha, Robert and David Wechsler, and a niece training in these stores and custom the company with “only Casual Male or 32 cents. Sales rose 1 percent to and a nephew. The memorial service will be held at 4 tailored or what we call made-to- Outlets and a few outline Casual $397.7 million from $393.6 million p.m. Monday in Frank Campbell Funeral Home at 1076 measure clothing.” Male stores besides a half dozen as comps advanced 2.1 percent. Madison Avenue, at 81st Street.

w16a005a;11.indd 5 3/15/12 8:12 PM 03152012201334 6 WWD friday, march 16, 2012 beauty Four Play: Ralph Lauren’s Newest Scents In the u.s., the scents will be carried By JuLIe NauGhToN in about 2,500 department and specialty store doors. “In addition to full distribu- raLPh LaureN is riding back into the tion in the u.s., we’ll have a presence in women’s fragrance arena with the Big europe, Middle east, asia-Pacific, Latin Pony Collection for Women, scheduled america, North america and travel re- for an april launch after a two-week ex- tail worldwide,” said de Lesquen. Global clusive at Bloomingdale’s this month. distribution begins in april, with rollouts “With this launch, we bring to young planned through June. women an appealing message: Live life While both de Lesquen and rey de- in color by expressing every vibrant clined to discuss sales projections and side of you,” said Marc rey, president advertising and promotional spending, in- of International designer Collections at dustry sources estimated that the quartet L’oréal usa. “The Big Pony Collection could do $40 million at retail in the u.s. for Women is a bouquet of exciting fra- in their first year on counter. The u.s. ad- grances for the iPod generation.” vertising and promotional war chest could The quartet of fragrances — which top $20 million in the quartet’s first year. complements the existing Big Pony The print advertising campaign is shot Collection for Men, as well as the six-year- by Bruce Weber, who also created a two- old Big Pony apparel lineup — is intended The fragrance advertising. minute film and a 15-second trailer film to appeal to women’s many facets, said teaser for the quartet; the films will likely Guillaume de Lesquen, president of ralph by Bruno Jovanovic of International intended to be free-spirited, with a signa- be used for TV advertising at holiday. “The Lauren Fragrances Worldwide. “The Big Flavors & Fragrances, it has top notes of ture of pear and mimosa. The floral green advertising concept celebrates the pow- Pony Collection for Women empowers a grapefruit and honeydew, a heart of blue juice, by Laurent Le Guernec of IFF, has erful group of four women, who visually woman to express all her different sides lotus and dewy jasmine and a base of ce- top notes of juicy pear and kumquat, a reflect the fragrance collection through and convey the whole story of who she is. darwood and musk. heart of mimosa and buttercup, and a dry- their vivid wardrobe and oversize polo This means identifying the four key attri- scent number two, intended to be the down of white amber and sandalwood. pony icons,” said de Lesquen, noting that butes of a modern woman’s femininity — sensual offering, is a floriental fruity juice The fourth fragrance in the lineup is the campaign features models andreea sporty, sensual, free-spirited and stylish.” with a cranberry and tonka mousse sig- an oriental floral which represents the diaconu of romania, daniela de Jesus It is also a key opportunity to bring in the nature. Concocted by honorine Blanc of stylish facet, built around cherry and of Mexico, Juliana Forge of australia and 18- to 24-year-old consumer, he said, add- Firmenich, it has top notes of grapefruit, purple amber notes; it also contains three Cris urena of the dominican republic. ing that “We believe this collection will ap- mandarin, guava and water lily, a heart of proprietary molecules — cassyrein, cris- The campaign will begin running in april peal to women of all ages as well.” lily of the valley, magnolia and honeysuck- tallon and sylkolide. Created by olivier fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, Fragrance number one is a sporty flo- le, and a drydown of sandalwood, vanilla Gillotin of Givaudan, it has top notes of with four-page and eight-page inserts sam- ral citrus, with blue lotus and grapefruit extract, marshmallow and musk. blood orange, casseyrein and watermelon; pling all four scents. notes serving as the signature. Created The collection’s number three scent is a heart of magnolia flower and cristallon, a major digital campaign is planned and a drydown of sylkolide, sandal- as well, said de Lesquen. Custom units, wood and purple amber. page takeovers and companion banner de Lesquen noted that the bottles ads for online advertising on major sites are intended to be a more feminine, and networks are planned to increase elegant version of the Big Pony for awareness and drive traffic to Facebook, Men’s flasklike glass bottles, with engagements and retailer sites, and a bright, feminine colors and an elegant dedicated Facebook page will be geo- silver cap. on each bottle, the pony is local for localized engagement and ex- embossed into the glass on the front clusive content, including a choose-your- and the brightly colored number is fragrance game and music by onerepublic. screened on the back. each scent is The campaign song, “Life in Color,” will an eau de toilette available in two be released on the group’s next album sizes, $70 for 100 ml. and $55 for 50 ml. later this year. Lauder Taps Arizona Muse The esTée Lauder brand Vogue; work with fashion pho- has signed arizona Muse to its tographers steven Meisel, roster of spokesmodels. Patrick demarchelier and Muse, 23, joins elizabeth Paolo roversi, and runway ap- hurley, Carolyn Murphy, hilary pearances at 30 recent ready- rhoda, Constance Jablonski, to-wear shows, including Liu Wen and Joan smalls in the Calvin Klein, Chanel, Burberry, Lauder lineup. Giorgio armani, roberto Muse has been signed for Cavalli and dior. she is also skin care, makeup and fra- appearing in spring ad cam- grance, noted aerin Lauder, paigns for Fendi, Karl by Karl style and image director for the Lagerfeld and Isabel Marant. estée Lauder brand. “arizona is For her part, Muse calls the a true beauty and a great com- role “a monumental honor,” add- plement to our other spokes- giannoni ing that she got the news during people,” said Lauder. “she is Paris Fashion Week. “I walked

perfect for the brand — she is giovanni into my hotel room and found warm, elegant and personable. by an enormous bouquet of flowers she can represent skin care, from Lauder welcoming me to fragrance and makeup equally photo the brand,” she remembered. Arizona Muse well. she is truly a modern “It was such a great way to on the Anthony estée Lauder woman.” finish fashion week.” Vaccarello runway. While Muse hasn’t yet been Muse noted that she’s shot for any Lauder advertising, looking forward to working “We see her in a very luxury way,” said with longtime friend Tom Pecheux, richard Ferretti, senior vice president the brand’s creative makeup director, and creative director for estée Lauder. as well as the rest of the team. “I es- “she has the ability to go to that place. pecially love skin care. It is something also, arizona is warm, engaging and that is the base of everything,” she smart. she has an innate graciousness said, adding that Lauder’s re-Nutriv that we believe will translate to whatev- is a new favorite. she also remains er advertising we choose to do with her.” refreshingly down-to-earth about The first images featuring Muse are her success. “It still kind of blows me expected within the next year. away,” Muse said. “I don’t understand Muse’s quick rise in fashion has why all of this work happened, but I included covers of Italian, Korean, hope it continues!” australian, French, russian and British  —J.N.

w16a006a;7.indd 1 3/15/12 6:17 PM 03152012181841 WwD FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012 7 WWD.COM

Trump’s Latest Quest: A Second Fragrance {Continued from page one} then. “But as an independent, it’s very, and him personally. It is the lifestyle and very tough,” he added. the aspiration to what he represents — Also, why endorse Romney, when wealth. The Trump family represents there were reports that some observers success,” he continued. “It’s a very aspi- thought he would back Newt Gingrich, rational name.” whose combative style was more in the

Trump said he met Five Star execu- Trump mold? “He did too,” Trump said tives when Stephen Nussdorf, chairman with a smile, indicating that Gingrich of Perfumania Holdings, came onto the also thought he was getting the nod. set of Trump’s “Celebrity Apprentice” “I really liked Mitt’s stance on China, show to film Kim Kardashian to promote his stance on OPEC, I get along with both her fragrance. Despite the entrepre- of them great,” he said, adding that he is

neurial nature of the Trump family — not expecting something like a vice pres- daughter Ivanka has jewelry, shoe and idential slot or a cabinet position in re- a soon-to-come-out clothing line, while turn for the endorsement. “It’s certainly wife Melania sells costume jewelry on nothing I’m looking at ’cause I just enjoy QVC — there’s a difference between the what I’m doing,” he said. When pressed Trumps and the Kardashians, Villoldo further, he conceded, “If they would need contended. Trump is a lifestyle of more something and if they’d need help, I’m ’’ substantial wealth based on real estate. always there. I want to see the country He also maintains that since the launch great again. This country is in big trou- of the last fragrance, the “Trump family ble. And you look at what China is doing name has grown and become more pow- to us, you look at what the OPEC nations erful.” Also he is banking on his belief in are doing to us, it’s a joke.” the superiority of the Lance McGregor After the interview, Trump was que- designed packaging, an unusually heavy ried about a possible run for mayor of bottle to denote substance, and the juice, New York when Michael Bloomberg’s a fresh aromatic fragrance. term expires. The word from the Trump Moreover, the launch plan is more tar- camp: “He does not have any interest in geted. Success by Trump will be aimed running for mayor.” at an exclusive with Macy’s, and industry As for the next election cycle in 2016, sources estimate the sales target at $3.5 Trump was noncommittal about a pos- million for the first year on counter. That sible run for president. “We’ll have to see would translate into a ranking in the top what happens here,” he said, but four 15 of men’s brands in 500 of Macy’s doors, years is a long time to even think about.” or 85 percent of the chain. The first fra- For now, Trump seems busy enough. He grance had an exclusive with Federated has a fistful of sidelines: men’s suits, dress Department Stores Inc. shirts, cuff links and, above all, men’s ties. I’m the only one who will sell a $50 million Villoldo declined to comment on num- Then there’s the Trump home collection bers but said that he plans to present the — the Serta mattresses and the crystal bar- apartment and also sell a tie. fragrance to the duty free market in the ware, stemware and giftware made in wife next several months. Plans also call for Melania’s home country of Slovenia. — DONALD TRUMP rolling distribution out to other depart- All of these endeavors, backed by ment stores in the future. He said Trump his TV show, are spokes in the wheel of will do an appearance his personal branding further, he pointed out that it makes for person who is waiting is Martine Reardon, at Macy’s Herald Square machine. Whether up- “a pretty complicated word.” It can be chief marketing officer of Macy’s Inc. “I am flagship on April 18. braiding celebrities on ephemeral, many die. But there are so excited about it,” she said, “he has all the While Trump points TV or merchandising many. “When we’re casting ‘Celebrity ingredients.” She then ticked off Trump’s out that real estate is suits or making incen- Apprentice,’ they say, ‘Who do you want current successes in the store — dress his true business, poli- diary statements on the on the show?’ and they’ll give me a list suits, furnishings, cuff links and especially tics seems to be one of campaign trail, Trump, with literally a thousand names on it, ties, the number one category. “He is pop his most fervent pas- with all his brio and all celebrities you’ve heard of.” Then, culture,” she said. “Everyone wants to look sions. With his pugna- boisterous charisma, however, he put his priorities in focus. and feel like a celebrity.” cious debating style, he is continually building Referring to the new men’s fragrance, he She estimated that the demographic rose to number one in his profile. He clearly said, “My main business is real estate. character of his customer is “30-plus. the polls among early has spent a great deal [The fragrance] can never compete with Believe it or not, he does’’ appeal to a Republican presidential of time studying the [the real estate] from an economic or a younger customer as well. [The custom- hopefuls with his relent- transformative power monetary standpoint, even if it’s very ers] get both sides of him.” less “birther” attacks of notoriety and how it successful. So in one way that’s nice, be- The fragrance is being received now questioning President drives retail. cause I can do whatever I want to do. I’m and Reardon expects it on counter by the Obama’s citizenship. “It’s funny, I’m the also a private company.” first week of April. He then took himself only one who will sell a On April 22, he will promote his new There are four items in the line, two

out of contention and Iannaccone $50 million apartment fragrance on his TV show. Trump trium- scents — a 1.7-oz. size priced $45 and a eventually endorsed and also sell a tie,” he phantly shared the news recently that 3.5-oz. variety at $55 — and a $40 after- homas T

Mitt Romney for the said in a reflective mo- “Celebrity Apprentice,” which airs on shave and a $14 deodorant. The formula

Republican nomination. by ment. Asked how it NBC, ranked number one in its time slot was created with Five Star by Givaudan Asked why he all works together, he against CBS, ABC and Fox among view- perfumer Yann Vasnier and fragrance de-

dropped out, Trump Photos said, “The celebrity as- ers aged 18 to 49 and 25 to 54. He exudes veloper Jennifer Mullarkey. The formula had an unusual expla- The Success by Trump fragrance. pect of it certainly has a loyalty to the show while exhibiting a consists of top notes of fresh juniper and nation. Because of his helped my real estate a sense of realism about the business. “I iced red currant, brushed with hints of Sunday night “Celebrity Apprentice” real- lot. I put the name Trump National on my hosted ‘Saturday Night Live,’ and execu- coriander. Middle notes feature frozen ity show, the other candidates also would golf clubs and they fill up. I put the name tive producer Lorne Michaels came up to ginger, fresh bamboo leaves and gerani- have to be granted access to the same Trump on a building and I do great with it. me and I said, ‘You know, Lorne, it won’t um. Among the bottom notes are vetiver, amount of TV airtime under the election “I don’t do it for the ego; I do it be- always be this way. Some day NBC will tonka bean, birch wood and musk. fairness doctrine, he claimed. “In other cause it works,” he continued. “If it was call and say the ratings are no good and The print advertising campaign, words, if you have a show you’re not al- purely ego, if you said, ‘Put the name the show is canceled.’ And he said, ‘No, which will start running in May, con- lowed to run unless you give all of the Trump and you won’t do as well,’ I Donald, you’re wrong, they won’t even sists of a provocative shot of Ximena other candidates the same two hours on wouldn’t put the name on the building. I bother calling,’” Trump recalled with a Navarrete, Miss Universe of 2010. Sunday night,” Trump said. “It’s a terrible do much better because the name Trump smile. “He knows, he understands.” Trump stated that he decided against rule and law.” He was referring to a rule is on a building or on a club.” Asked if he would like to do another putting his picture in the ad “because suc- of the Federal Election Commission. While discussing his political activi- show, he replied, “I have a lot of options. cess has so many different meanings. The His only alternative was to wait to ties, he noted, “Actually I was number While I had the success with “Celebrity ad is a seductive take on the concept of enter the race until after the show ends one in the polls and that has something Apprentice,” it would be very hard to do success. Ximena is a beautiful, successful on May 16, and then run for president as to do with ties. You know, it’s all the same a second show.” woman. I think her presence appeals to an independent, because the Republican thing when you think about it.” At the moment, he is concentrating on both men and women. And truly — what primaries would be nearing a head by Pondering the nature of celebrity launching the fragrance. And at least one is sexier than being successful? Nothing.”

w16a007a;7.indd 7 3/15/12 6:14 PM 03152012181511 8 WWD friday, march 16, 2012 WWD.COM beauty AgeLoc Adds Fuel to Nu Skin’s Growth Nu skin’s premium-priced one,” said hunt. “We’re essen- Wall street analysts have criti- By Molly Prior products also have boosted the tially a mobilized department cized avon’s single-level selling company’s earnings in its most re- store, but unlike department model, which they say is further its Much larger peer, avon cent quarter, with revenue rock- store brands that rely on ad- hampered by low price points, Products inc., has stumbled re- eting up 23.5 percent to $495.3 vertising, we are not limited to making it “too hard too make a cently, but Nu skin enterprises million from the year-ago period, 30-second sound bites.” living,” as one source said. inc. has quietly figured out how and gaining 13.7 percent to $1.74 ageloc, which relies on consumer edge research an- to make the direct-selling model billion for the year. the Provo, technology designed to target alyst Javier escalante explained fire on all cylinders: offer its utah-based company reported in- and then influence age-related the issues of avon’s single-level Nu Skin’s recently introduced global sales force premium- come in the fourth quarter gained genes, has added more “octane,” model in a recent research note, Galvanic Body Spa. priced products to sell. 32.7 percent to $49.5 million, or in hunt speak, to Nu skin’s saying, “selling 99-cent deodor- Nu skin’s flagship skin care 76 cents a diluted share, and rose product pipeline. ants requires too many transac- greater china gained 66 percent range, ageloc, sells for between 12.7 percent to $153.3 million, or “ageloc has been the big tions for the reps to earn a couple to $110.6 million, with the num- $50 to $450 for a monthly regimen, $2.38 a share, for the year. growth driver,” said stifel hundred dollars a month, or qual- ber of active distributors ris- and the brand has underpinned “our business model is high Nicolaus analyst Mark astrachan. ify as a ‘leader’ and be compen- ing 21 percent. “there’s just so much of the company’s growth octane,” said hunt. “a wildly suc- “assuming Nu skin gets the new sated on sales from her recruits.” much pent-up demand for entre- since its inception three years cessful avon representative may product launches right — which these same analysts point preneurial activity,” said hunt. ago. Deutsche Bank analyst Bill make $40,000 to $50,000 a year. in it has in recent years with ageloc to Nu skin’s model as an ex- in the year ahead, hunt said schmitz called ageloc a “game- our model, a successful Nu skin — it will continue to generate a ample of how to kick the direct- Nu skin has its sights set on changer,” and with good reason. distributor [or rep] may make significant amount of growth.” selling challenge into high gear latin america — where it cur- since 2009, the company has $40,000 to $50,000 a month.” he the right products have also and attract a strong sales force. rently has a small presence in grown at a compound annual described Nu skin’s representa- helped grow the firm’s distribu- ageloc seems to have done just Mexico, colombia, argentina growth rate of 10 percent, and in tives, who the firm refers to as tor ranks. in 2011, Nu skin’s that on a global scale. and Venezuela — and on india. the most recent year period, at a distributors, as educated and total number of active dis- since its introduction in 2009, “these markets will likely re- rate of 15 percent, said truman motivated individuals. it’s a tributors was 855,000, up from ageloc has generated $1 billion quire a modified model than we hunt, Nu skin president and group that also includes profes- 799,000 in the prior year. in sales, said hunt. its two latest currently do,” he said, adding chief executive officer, who has sionals, like doctors. Nu skin’s “as a multilevel business, products, r-squared and galvanic Nu skin’s approach will likely served at the helm since 2003. business is split, nearly equally, Nu skin really affords repre- Body spa, reaped $100 million in fall somewhere between where “When the business was found- between personal care products, sentatives to earn a living,” orders when introduced as part avon plays and where Nu skin ed in 1984, Nu skin decided not to like ageloc, and nutritional sup- said astrachan. he noted that of a limited-time offer in october, is positioned. compete on the lower-end, mass plements — all with an antiaging Nu skin funnels 43 percent of said hunt. “We expect to double earlier this month, astrachan side of the business. instead, we bent. hunt estimates that 90 per- its sales back to its distributors that for the next launch in fall wrote in a research note, “We an- compete on product benefits,” cent of its distributors sell across through incentive programs. 2013,” he added. ageloc also is ticipate at least mid- to high-sin- said hunt, adding that product both categories. in the wake of turmoil at well ensconced in asia, where the gle-digit sales growth over the next development begins with a ben- “We have the benefit of a avon — which is knee-deep in company’s year-over-year growth three to five years driven by devel- efit in mind and is not hindered highly enthusiastic distribu- operational issues and an ongo- rate is 17 percent. oping markets and a solid innova- by a particular price ceiling. tor calling on someone, one on ing ceo search — a number of Nu skin’s total business in tion for the ageloc trademark.”

fashion behind closed doors.

ISSUE 02

FALL/WINTER 2012 SEASON

Coming in March

w16a008a;8.indd 1 3/15/12 5:39 PM 03152012174008 HIP CHECK WWD STYLE Marcus Samuelsson opens Ginny’s in Harlem. PAGE 10 MEMO PAD

FROM PRINT TO THE WEB: Lucy Yeomans is leaving her long- held post as editor of Harper’s Bazaar U.K. to take on the newly created role of editor in chief of Net-a-Porter.com. Yeomans will report to Alison Loehnis, managing director of Net-a-Porter.com, which has a worldwide readership of 3.5 million. She will begin working full time in September. Yeomans had long been seen rumored as a possible replacement for Glenda Bailey as editor in chief of American Harper’s Bazaar. But Hearst Magazines last year is said to have renewed Bailey’s contract and introduced a redesign of the U.S. edition. Loehnis said at Net-a-Porter, Yeomans would “own” all content on- and offline, and that the site would retain a separate identity from its men’s wear counterpart Mr Porter, which is edited by Yeomans’ former Hearst colleague Jeremy Langmead, who previously was editor of Esquire U.K. Earlier this year, Net-a-Porter named Tess Macleod Smith group publishing director, a title she had formerly held at Hearst. Loehnis said Yeomans would be leveraging editorial content across all platforms including tablets, mobiles, augmented reality and social networks. Yeomans will also be in charge of the print publication, Net-a- Porter Magazine, which is sold on the site and which is distributed to select customers and to corporate partners such as hotels. “We want to herald fashion in every way, shape and form and shout our message from every platform. We have a lot to say, and a lot of places to say it from. Lucy’s remit is a broad one,” said Loehnis, adding that Yeomans would be working with the existing editorial team. Natalie Massenet, founder and executive chairman of the Net-a-Porter Group, said: “I am personally very excited about this appointment, having Blue State worked with Lucy during our time together at Tatler, and have known her for many WASHINGTON — The British and American First Ladies continued years as well as professionally supporting Harper’s Bazaar.” their fashion parade Wednesday night at a state dinner at the White Yeomans joined Tatler in 1997 as features editor, House that drew the likes of George Clooney, John Legend, Elizabeth eventually rising to deputy McGovern, Rory McIlroy and Carey Mulligan. Opting for a key color editor. In 2000, she took over as editor of what was then known of the two countries’ flags, both first ladies stuck to blue: Samantha as Harpers & Queen, and Cameron in a gown by Alessandra Rich and Michelle Obama in IMAGES during her tenure boosted the circulation from 87,123 to the Marchesa, which, suitably enough, is designed by two Brits, Georgina current 120,004.

ASSOCIATION Hearst Magazines U.K. said Chapman and Keren Craig. For more on the night, see page 11. that Jenny Dickinson has been named acting editor of Harper’s

WIRE/PRESS Bazaar U.K. and will take up her post in April when Yeomans leaves. Dickinson was acting editor of Elle U.K. for the ROUSEAU/PA past year while editor in chief Lorraine Candy was on maternity STEFAN leave. Dickinson had previously BY served as deputy editor of Elle

PHOTO U.K. — SAMANTHA CONTI 10 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012

liver butter and bourbon maple syrup and a jerk veal tongue on eye AQUINO Chinese buns. “You want a real,

JOHN big dinner you can get that…but BY it’s pick and beverage happy,” Samuelsson explains. The cocktail PHOTOS list complements the menu with classics like the Harlem Mule (Japanese whiskey, ginger, basil and Peychaud’s), a triple caipirinha (cachaça, cucumber, kumquat, grapefruit cordial) and the Dandridge (aquavit, sweet vermouth and orange bitters). Food and beverages aren’t all that’s on the menu, however. “We’ve had everything from a 17-piece jazz band to a fun after party for Bruce Springsteen,” Samuelsson says. Marcus Samuelsson “And that was before we really opened. Keith Richards was long as you made an effort.” our first guest upstairs, you Ginny’s own interior style is know? We knew right away that The dining room all swirling colors and leather we were blessed like that.” at Ginny’s. banquettes with bistro tables, There will always be a DJ in carved wood paneling and the booth at Ginny’s, though there tile floor. It’s an easy place might be a band or open mic night, to imagine wiling away an Chapman explains. Sunday brunch evening well into the early is gospel, Sunday night is jazz. They hours, and that’s the plan. hope to eventually host a series Downstairs, Uptown There also will be music, film of post-midnight jam sessions and speaking series, as well as with a mix of several well-known FEW RESTAURATEURS ARE “We always reminisce about York needs a bit more of that.” cooking classes for mothers and musicians improvising together. more ebullient, effusive and the places that transcend just Samuelsson greets his staff children from the community “It’s not just you come to flat-out charming as Marcus one thing,” Samuelsson explains. and guests upstairs with broad and a rotating schedule of live Harlem for one type of music, you Samuelsson and Andrew “‘Oh, I had a great time, I met smiles and broader embraces. musical acts. come here one night and it might Chapman, the duo behind Red people of all ages, the drinks He is also very nattily dressed. Samuelsson describes his be rock ’n’ roll, it might be a club,” Rooster and, beneath it as of were fun and the food was “There’s a commitment to menu as “fun, sexy food” that Samuelsson says. “Don’t box it in, today, Ginny’s Supper Club, the incredible and we danced and we style here,” he says. “When we references the clubs of the you know what I mean?” subterranean throwback to the talked a lot.’ That’s a night out.” opened a restaurant, it was a Twenties, which were heavily — ALESSANDRA CODINHA swinging gin-soaked Harlem Chapman adds: “It makes down economy, tough time. Our influenced by Chinese and nights of the Twenties. it special that everyone Harlem customers? They came French fare. The 12-item menu is Ginny’s Supper Club Located down a flight of participates, that it’s not one of every day dressed up. And that diverse and mouth-watering: fried 310 Lenox Avenue at 126th carpeted stairs from the main those places that’s like, ‘Oh, no, drove how nice we wanted the shrimp and walnuts with endive Street, New York dining room, Ginny’s is a I’m going to look at your shoes place to be, to make it as elegant and pickled onion cozies up to 212-792-9001 modern take on the supper and you can’t go in.’ We want to as it can be. It’s flair. Uptown a five-spice cured duck breast Open for dinner Monday through clubs of the first Harlem celebrate the beauty of who you flair. People’s style is important and lobster Thermidor, fried Sunday, 6 p.m. to midnight; Renaissance. are and that you’re different. New — you can wear whatever as chicken and waffles with chicken bar until closing.

FOR MORE PARTY Diana Smith’s Silver PHOTOS, SEE Vishneva Big WWD.com/eye. SIR PAUL SMITH THREW open a shop here.” Although himself a booming birthday other British companies had bash Wednesday night to tried and failed, “even big celebrate the 25th anniversary British companies,” he said, Dance of his Flatiron District retail he was hopeful that the U.S. store in New York. Invitees consumer would embrace could barely squeeze into the his distinct take on fashion. store for the event, which drew “I looked at all the obvious an assortment of rock ’n’ rollers, places but couldn’t afford retailers and friends all vying them, and I liked the Flatiron Fang-Yi for a chance to congratulate the area.” He said he made a Sheu designer on his staying power. similar choice in London when he opened a shop in the “wilderness” that was

Covent Garden at the time, EICHNER and a “back alleyway” in his hometown of Nottingham. “I STEVE guess that’s what attracts me,” Marvin and Lee Traub BY he said with a shrug. Smith created a few special PHOTOS items to commemorate the anniversary, including T-shirts, THE MARTHA GRAHAM dinner, as partygoers, who Bloomingdale’s chief Michael wallets and candles, many Dance Company honored included guest dancers Diana Gould, Martha Graham Dance of which sported a big green longtime patrons Marvin and Vishneva and Fang-Yi Sheu, filed Company chairman Judith apple. Throughout the two-level Lee Traub at its annual gala on into the room. “I was just Schlosser and former dancer store and in the windows were Wednesday night. The two- sitting there, thinking back and National Dance Institute vintage Paul Smith fashions part evening started with a about how many years I used founder Jacques d’Amboise. Lee and accessories from the performance of four works to sit backstage with Lee and Traub repaid the favor when it designer’s archives or borrowed from the Graham repertoire at Martha and watch the company was her time at the microphone from customers, as well as old New York City Center on 55th perform….My greatest memory after a heartfelt appreciation “catalogues” from his fashion Street, during which the troupe is having three chairs back to from her husband. AQUINO shows over the years. donned costumes that had the side offstage: Martha in “Am I not the luckiest

JOHN In his typical flat-out pace, originally been designed by the middle, Lee and I on person in the world? To have BY Smith was in the U.S. for only Graham herself. After, guests each side of her, watching a husband make a tribute one day before returning to were shepherded through two the company perform.” like that and be introduced PHOTO Sir Paul Smith and Patti Smith London. He even stood up the blocks’ worth of buildings by Traub and his wife, who by these two great guys, prime minister: The designer sign-holding staffers pointing studied under Graham Mike Gould and Jacques “I remember coming down was invited to that night’s state the way to dinner at The and is chair emerita of the d’Amboise?” Traub said. “So I here in 1986,” Smith said of dinner at the White House in Russian Tea Room. Martha Graham Center of have to remind you all: Go to the neighborhood that was Washington for Prime Minister “It brings back so many Contemporary Dance, were Bloomingdale’s and buy a lot filled with Chinese laundries David Cameron and his wife, memories,” the former the subjects of several toasts of stuff...and support Jacques’ and take-out food spots when Samantha, but Smith said, “I Bloomingdale’s chief executive over the course of the evening National Dance Institute, he first ventured down. “And had to say no — I’m here.” officer and Marvin Traub by figures from both the retail which is fantastic.” I thought it might be good to — JEAN E. PALMIERI Associates founder said before and dance worlds, such as — MATTHEW LYNCH WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS

SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP: President Obama officially kicked off Wednesday evening presided over the largest state dinner of when Diane von Furstenberg and Steven Kolb his tenure thus far on Wednesday night revealed the nominees and honorees when he and First Lady Michelle Obama for the 2012 CFDA Fashion Awards at a hosted more than 360 guests to fete this cocktail reception held at DVF’s studio. week’s Stateside visit by British Prime Many of those whose names will appear Minister David Cameron and his wife, on the ballot were not in attendance, Samantha. The two first ladies continued including all of the nominees for the their week-long fashion duel, with Womenswear Designer of the Year, but Cameron in a blue print Alessandra those who did show included Swarovski Rich design and Obama in a midnight Award for Womenswear nominee The retail shop blue Marchesa gown. The latter dress Christopher Peters of Creatures of the Wind, and lounge area may have been a nod to the spirit of the Swarovski Menswear nominees Phillip at Flywheel’s occasion as the New York- Lim and Todd Snyder, and the Flatiron location based line is the work of Media Award recipients in New York. two Brits: Georgina Chapman Scott Schuman and Garance Doré, FRANKFORT PHOTO BY TOMMY IANNACCONE; OTHERS BY JOHN AQUINO AQUINO JOHN BY OTHERS IANNACCONE; TOMMY BY PHOTO FRANKFORT and Keren Craig. The guest who, as von Furstenberg list ran a transatlantic pointed out, are “co-winners Flywheel Plots Sharp Growth gamut of notables with Carey and they also co-habit.” The Mulligan, Sir Richard Branson, biggest applause of the night and Northern Ireland-born came when von Furstenberg golf phenom Rory McIlroy said that “by unanimous By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD all in attendance, as well vote” Rei Kawakubo would as two “Downton Abbey” receive the International WITH NOTHING but words of encour- regulars: Hugh Bonneville Award, and that Johnny Depp agement and the persistent bump of and Elizabeth McGovern. will be the first man to adrenaline-pumping tunes willing him George Clooney, who was in receive the Fashion Icon to continue, Lew Frankfort gritted his Washington and met with Creatures of Award. — JESSICA IREDALE teeth and began peddling faster. the President earlier in the Wind's A self-professed “health nut” who the day about his war Christopher FULL-COURT PRESS: Arizona- works out five times a week, the chief relief efforts in Sudan, was Peters. based Sportiqe will outfit executive officer of Coach Inc. was seen chatting up Michelle EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTOS all members of the retail doing more than just getting in his first Obama and White House staff at Madison Square grueling workout at Flywheel Sports — adviser Valerie Jarrett. Garden tonight with specially designed he was trying out his latest investment. After making their entrance, each New York Knicks T-shirts for the game “I’m passionate about building head of state gave a roughly 10-minute against the Indiana Pacers. “I have always brands, and Flywheel resonates with speech that touched on the long considered MSG as the Rodeo Drive my lifestyle,” Frankfort told WWD. relationship between the two countries, or Bergdorf ’s for Sportiqe,” said brand “The company is in its very early stag- as well as their more recent history, such founder Jason Franklin, who has draped his es. I believe the potential is limitless as their combined support of the Libyan vintage-inspired team designs on the likes but it needs to be done with care.” Ruth Zukerman and Jay Galluzzo revolution. The previous night, both of David Beckham, Dwyane Wade, Tim Tebow, Mark With five locations in New York, leaders had taken in an NCAA basketball Wahlberg, Zac Efron and Lil Wayne. one in Florida and another in Chicago, game, and Cameron used his remarks to It will be the fourth night since Flywheel, the two-year-old indoor cy- Frankfort, who said he would play praise the two first ladies: “The truth is, February that Sportiqe has outfitted MSG cling chain, is gearing up to more than a limited role in developing retail we have to have a guys’ night out because staff for Knicks or New York Rangers double its footprint by the end of 2012. and other consumer-related projects, so often we are completely overshadowed games. The company specializes in According to the company, it will likely knows how to pick a winner. He has by our beautiful wives.” — MATTHEW LYNCH adding a fashion element to sports amass more than $20 million in rev- confirmed that he is an investor in the apparel and its license partners include enue this year. successful denim company J Brand, FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION: Election season the NBA, NCAA, USTA, ESPN and World With the help of Frankfort, who be- as well as BodyArmor, an all-natural for the American fashion constituency Series of Poker. — DAVID LIPKE came a strategic investor in February, sports drink that will eventually be the spin club, which is already looking sold at Flywheel. It is also rumored to expand internationally, will open 20 that Frankfort is an investor in Tequila doors in the U.S. and will broaden its Avión, but it’s highly unlikely that this retail presence within its own clubs beverage will grace the cycling club. during the year. Currently, Flywheel Behind Flywheel’s success is co- sells a small collection of primarily founder and president Jay Galluzzo, branded athletic apparel that is also who is also a partner at venture man- set to grow. agement firm Tricera Partners, and For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Flywheel co-founder and creative director Ruth Zukerman, a fitness in- structor who helped launch Soul Cycle. “We run this place like a restau- rant,” Galluzzo said. “We don’t want it Spaces to be like a gym.” While the locations house a spin stu- dio and a yoga studio for barre classes, COMMERCIAL it does operate more like a self-service REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS GRAPHIC ARTIST buffet than a full-service restaurant. Full service shop to the trade. Mid-town NYC Children’s Sportswear/ Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Swimwear manufacturer seeking free- Cyclists pay $30 to reserve a bike on- lance Graphic Artist to work in-house. Must know Illustrator C5 (MAC) and line, upward of a week in advance. have experience doing print (repeats), Flywheel provides a pair of cycling placement screens, embroideries, shoes for the class, as well as amenities Showrooms & Lofts sketch silhouettes, and do tech packs. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Some previous experience in Girls/ like bottled water, newspapers, towels Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Boys, Infant to 16 is helpful. Email: [email protected] and various post-workout snacks. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 There’s no fancy locker room or spa like many upscale gyms, but the spin room is more spacious and the bikes, which incorporate a stadium-style lay- Class A space available at Exit 12 Lew Frankfort (Rahway, NJ)….Up to 40,000 sq. ft. of out, have performance-tracking tech- racked space .... Low $4.00 per sq. ft. nology. Classes are also taught in virtual Contact Arnold Dunn at Introduced to the chain by his darkness, with one spotlight fixed on the 732-855-1400 x239. daughter Alana, who is a spin enthu- instructor, so as to make riders focus on siast, Frankfort decided to invest be- their progress and not their neighbor. cause he saw that the chain had a simi- Putting that aside, the genius of lar philosophy to his own company. Flywheel is its staff. “I look for a distinctive proposition, Employees are encouraged to apply something that is unique and not of- to different jobs within the company, fered by other people. I also look for and they get stock options. Typically, fit- clarity of thinking about the proposi- ness instructors go from job to job, but tion,” he said. “In the case of Flywheel, at Flywheel, they are able to earn a liv- it’s an experimental brand that helps able wage, said co-founder Zukerman. people feel good. They develop a strong “It’s boutique but it is not exclusive loyalty when they have a positive expe- or snobby or intimidating,” she noted. (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] rience, and Flywheel develops lasting “We are building a culture from the relationships, one customer at a time.” ground up here.”

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