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“Grunge Killed Glam Metal” Narrative by Holly Johnson
The Interplay of Authority, Masculinity, and Signification in the “Grunge Killed Glam Metal” Narrative by Holly Johnson A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate and Postdoctoral Affairs in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Music and Culture Carleton University Ottawa, Ontario © 2014, Holly Johnson ii Abstract This thesis will deconstruct the "grunge killed '80s metal” narrative, to reveal the idealization by certain critics and musicians of that which is deemed to be authentic, honest, and natural subculture. The central theme is an analysis of the conflicting masculinities of glam metal and grunge music, and how these gender roles are developed and reproduced. I will also demonstrate how, although the idealized authentic subculture is positioned in opposition to the mainstream, it does not in actuality exist outside of the system of commercialism. The problematic nature of this idealization will be examined with regard to the layers of complexity involved in popular rock music genre evolution, involving the inevitable progression from a subculture to the mainstream that occurred with both glam metal and grunge. I will illustrate the ways in which the process of signification functions within rock music to construct masculinities and within subcultures to negotiate authenticity. iii Acknowledgements I would like to thank firstly my academic advisor Dr. William Echard for his continued patience with me during the thesis writing process and for his invaluable guidance. I also would like to send a big thank you to Dr. James Deaville, the head of Music and Culture program, who has given me much assistance along the way. -
Colette Closes Its Doors in Paris While Numerous Concept Stores Crop up in Less Likely Cities
RETAIL Colette closes its doors in Paris while numerous concept stores crop up in less likely cities. What's next for the FASHION-LIFESTYLE RETAIL FORMULA? SPACES 123 The brainchild of Comme des Garçons'Rei Kawakubo, DOVER STREET MARKET SINGAPORE Dover Street Market — which embodies a retail experience that's built around the concept of'beautiful chaos' — reached Singapore last year. WHEN NEWS OF COLETTE'S closing circu• Colette and DSM were forerunners in their a moment for ourselves, to read a book, for lated last year, surely more than a few retail• field; the latter can be traced as far back as the example' - Wu called upon Casper Mueller ers began second-guessing the concept-store 1960s, when Kawakubo encountered Kens• Kneer Architects to transform a 1930s ware• formula. One of the first of its kind, Colette ington Market during a London visit. Paris, house with Art-Deco detailing into a retail in Paris offered a curated selection - the London, Tokyo: all are known for setting sty• destination that surrounds fashion with a crème de la crème of fashion brands along• listic trends, but similar high-end multi-brand curated selection of titles from Donlon Books side up-and-comers - and hosted cultural concept stores that fuse fashion, art and life• of London, a plant-based tonic bar from New events for 20 years before shutting up shop style are now cropping up everywhere, from York's The Alchemist's Kitchen, and space for in December. Moscow to Vancouver. The recipe? Pick an rotating exhibitions: Ramble On by local artist Seven years after Colette was born, impressive — preferably run-down — space, Myfanwy MacLeod was first in line. -
UNIVERSITY of ARTS in BELGRADE Center for Interdisciplinary Studies
UNIVERSITY OF ARTS IN BELGRADE Center for Interdisciplinary studies UNESCO Chair in Cultural Policy and Management Master thesis: Project on the Museum of Fashion Establishment - Following the Clothing as a Cultural Phenomenon in the Balkans since the 18th Century Projekat osnivanja Muzeja mode, koji prati modu odevanja kao kulturološki fenomen na području Balkana od 18. veka by: Selma Kronja Supervisor: Irina Subotić, PhD Belgrade, September 2008 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Abstract 3 2. Introduction 5 3. Historical roots of the fashion development in the Balkans since the 18 th century 8 3.1. Political and geographical situation in the Balkans since the 18 th century 8 3.2. Social and cultural events that influence the global and local trends in fashion 16 3.3. Historical developments and fashion history of the population since the 18 th century till today in the Balkans 33 4. Role of the Museum of Fashion in society 49 4.1. Didactic relevance of the Museum 51 4.2. Educational and scientific role of the Museum 53 4.3. Modern concept of the Museum 56 4.4. Museum of Fashion and the media 60 5. Importance of establishing the institution for studying the fashion in the region of Balkans 66 5.1. Museum of Fashion as a unique institution in the region of Balkans 66 6. Conclusion 72 7. Bibliography 75 8. Curriculum Vitae of the author 79 1 Iris, painted by Milena Pavlović Barilli, 1928 2 ABSTRACT The main idea of the Museum of Fashion is expressing the diversity in feminine clothing since the 18 th century till today, but also the fashion of man and children, and accessories. -
Ralph's New Ride
PLUS: MILESTONE MARKERS NEW MUSE Estée Lauder signs model Arizona Muse. PAGE 6 MARVIN AND LEE TRAUB AND SIR PAUL SMITH WERE ALL FETED AT EVENTS IN NEW YORK. PAGE 10 ODD COUPLE Uniqlo, Dover Street Link Tokyo Flagships By AMANDA KAISER and KELLY WETHERILLE TOKYO — Rei, meet Tadashi. WWD In what might be seen as an odd fashion pairing, Rei Kawakubo’s Dover Street Market has opened a FRIDAY, MARCH 16, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 store here that connects to the largest Uniqlo flagship to date. Both stores held opening parties Thursday be- fore opening to the public today. Tadashi Yanai’s Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. considers the 12-story, 53,000-square-foot store in the shopping district of Ginza to be its eighth “global flagship,” joining the ranks of its two stores in New York as well as those in London; Paris; Shanghai; Osaka, Japan; Seoul, and Taipei, Taiwan. “When we opened the store on New York’s Fifth Avenue, I thought that we had realized the American dream. In Japan’s Ginza it’s the same thing — I think it’s a symbol of the Japanese dream,” Yanai, chair- man, president and chief executive officer of Fast Retailing, said at a press conference. “Being able to open our newest and largest global flagship store in Ginza…is really the most exciting thing [possible].” The executive said the store is aiming for annual sales of 10 billion yen, or $119.94 million, which he admits is an ambitious target. The Uniqlo and Dover Street stores are two of the more ambitious retail openings in Tokyo as of late. -
Extract from the Complete List
Preview of the complete list TYPOLOGY NAME CITY Buying Office Central World Bangkok Buying Office Kadewe Berlin Buying Office Qvc Italia Brugherio Buying Office Shinsegae Seul Buying Office Neiman Marcus Dallas Buying Office Krieger Florence Buying Office Studio 69 Florence Buying Office Tms Hong Kong Buying Office Boutiqueye Buying Office Ltd London Buying Office Harrods London Buying Office Selfridges London Buying Office Blueprint London Buying Office Glamour Inc London Buying Office Japanesey Co London Buying Office Alba West Best Milan Buying Office Lux Group Milano Milan Buying Office Phoenix Milan Buying Office Luxury Italian Milan Buying Office Studio Avesani Milan Buying Office Escogita Srl Milan Buying Office Fast Moving Italian Luxury Goods Milan Buying Office Itochu Italiana Milan Buying Office Mitsui Milan Buying Office The Firman Milan Buying Office Vib Milan Buying Office Mayo Milan Buying Office Agam Milan Buying Office Alta Moda Est Europa Milan Buying Office Isetan Mitsukoshi Italia Milan Buying Office Kanematsu Italia Milan Buying Office Lambert & Associates Milan Buying Office Takashimaya Co Milan Buying Office Equatoriale Milan Buying Office International Fashion Diffusion Milan Buying Office Luxury Lab Milano Milan Buying Office Mario Group Milan Buying Office Miko Milan Buying Office Luxury Italian Brands Milan Buying Office Kelch Fashion Group Milan Buying Office Onward Italia Milan Buying Office Christine Ellis Associates Srl Milan Buying Office J&H Milan Buying Office Joyce Milan Buying Office Gum Moscow Buying Office C&E Ambassadors Neuilly Buying Office Barneys New York Buying Office Bergdorf Goodman New York Buying Office Bloomingdales New York Buying Office Taf New York Buying Office Saks New york Buying Office Mp Select Paris Buying Office H.P. -
The 20 Year Trend Cycle: What Is Next? - FIB | FIB 10/03/2016 11:06
The 20 Year Trend Cycle: What Is Next? - FIB | FIB 10/03/2016 11:06 The 20 Year Trend Cycle: What Is Next? If you live long enough, you will probably see the fashion trends of your youth cycling back into popularity. Analysts are trying to get to the bottom of this mystery, by looking at the recurring trends throughout fashion history. The most cyclical movement in the history of the fashion industry is referred to as the “20-Year Rule.” This rule expresses the concept that something popular now will be popular again in 20 years, give or take a few years. Although new trends are always emerging, they are often modernisations or interpretations of the trends we have already seen. 90s Men’s Grunge Fashion, Photo Credit: swipelife.com/Michael Lavine According to Laver’s Law, when a trend is in fashion, it is ‘smart’; one year before this, it is ‘daring;’ and 20 years later, it becomes ‘ridiculous.’ 50 years, Laver said, was how long it took for a trend to begin to creep back into style. About Style have outlined the process of trend popularity, with fashion designers always on the look out for ‘what’s new’. First, the emerging trend is highly sought after, being found on red carpets and runways, as well as music videos and movies. Next comes the ‘emulation’ phase, where everyone jumps on board, with the trend https://fashionindustrybroadcast.com/2016/03/09/20-year-trend-cycle-next/ Page 1 of 4 The 20 Year Trend Cycle: What Is Next? - FIB | FIB 10/03/2016 11:06 being found in magazines and on TV. -
Exclusive: A&F's New Ruehl
SOUNDS OF STYLE, A SPECIAL REPORT/SECTION II WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • September 2, 2004 • $2.00 Sportswear A knit display in A&F’s latest format, Ruehl. Exclusive: A&F’s New Ruehl By David Moin informally more like a big man on campus than the NEW ALBANY, OHIO — The chairman wears jeans and flip- company chieftain, the approach to brand-building is flops to work and his 650 associates follow suit at the anything but casual. The intensity is as evident as sprawling, campus-style Abercrombie & Fitch ever with A&F’s latest retail brand and its Teutonic- headquarters here. sounding name, Ruehl. That’s just the veneer, though, because for Michael And Ruehl is just the first of three new retail Jeffries and the youthful army of workers he greets See New, Page 4 PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY 2 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Hilton Launches Jewelry With Amazon Sportswear By Marc Karimzadeh GENERAL Paris Hilton in A&F ceo Michael Jeffries lays out the strategy for Ruehl, the firm’s latest chain “It’s just being a girl; every girl NEW YORK — her multicross aimed at post-college shoppers, set to open Saturday in Tampa, Fla. loves jewelry.” necklace. 1 It’s as simple as that for Paris Hilton, who on U.S. textile groups fired up the pressure on the Bush administration, saying Wednesday launched the Paris Hilton Collection of 2 they will file dozens of petitions to reimpose quotas on Chinese imports. jewelry in an exclusive agreement with Amazon.com. -
Chief Paris Takeaway Kitchen Creative Direction and Design
WILL McGRATH INTERIOR ARCHITECTURE AND EXPERIENTIAL RETAIL DESIGN PORTFOLIO OF WORK JUNE 2021 Will McGrath is a multidisciplinary spatial designer working OVERVIEW from Paris. As an independent, he is the founder of HYPNOS; an experience-driven creative studio, developing concepts of interior architecture and design for retail stores, clubs, bars and private residences. Recent work includes the creative direction and design of the first concept store for A Better Mistake in Milan, a series of installations for the fashion designer Marine Serre, at four international Dover Street Market locations and the design of two restaurants in Paris. The studio has also undertaken projects to create pop-up stores, the headquarter for a fashion brand and a digital campaign for a perfume brand, as well as consulting on an experiential retail design concept for an industry leading company. Throughout each project, the ideology of exploration, discovery and enjoyment for the visitor are key within the development process. The spatial concepts focus on bringing senses to the surface, resulting in memorable moments. Prior to this work, Will has been a Visitor Experience and Spatial Designer for a number of years, completing projects for Siemens, RATP Paris, Philip Morris, BNP Paribas and Paris Aéroport among others. Will has been a guest lecturer at New York University, Istituto d’Arte Applicata e Design (University of Torino) and Middlesex University, London within the design departments on his professional career. CLIENT/PROJECT A BETTER MISTAKE CONCEPT STORE MILAN ROLE INTERIOR ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN YEAR 2020 WILLMCGRATH.CO.UK A Better Mistake contacted Will McGrath to conceptualise, design and oversee the completion of their first retail space; an experiential store that reflects the ethos of the brand. -
101 CC1 Concepts of Fashion
CONCEPT OF FASHION BFA(F)- 101 CC1 Directorate of Distance Education SWAMI VIVEKANAND SUBHARTI UNIVERSITY MEERUT 250005 UTTAR PRADESH SIM MOUDLE DEVELOPED BY: Reviewed by the study Material Assessment Committed Comprising: 1. Dr. N.K.Ahuja, Vice Chancellor Copyright © Publishers Grid No part of this publication which is material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduce or transmitted or utilized or store in any form or by any means now know or here in after invented, electronic, digital or mechanical. Including, photocopying, scanning, recording or by any informa- tion storage or retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher. Information contained in this book has been published by Publishers Grid and Publishers. and has been obtained by its author from sources believed to be reliable and are correct to the best of their knowledge. However, the publisher and author shall in no event be liable for any errors, omission or damages arising out of this information and specially disclaim and implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular use. Published by: Publishers Grid 4857/24, Ansari Road, Darya ganj, New Delhi-110002. Tel: 9899459633, 7982859204 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Printed by: A3 Digital Press Edition : 2021 CONTENTS 1. Introduction to Fashion 5-47 2. Fashion Forecasting 48-69 3. Theories of Fashion, Factors Affecting Fashion 70-96 4. Components of Fashion 97-112 5. Principle of Fashion and Fashion Cycle 113-128 6. Fashion Centres in the World 129-154 7. Study of the Renowned Fashion Designers 155-191 8. Careers in Fashion and Apparel Industry 192-217 9. -
Based on the American Horror Story Series
HOTELBased on the American Horror Story Series Katherine McKinley CONCEPT STATEMENT STAGING Staging is also an important element for the success of this pro- duction. I aim to create a set which features 7 rooms visable at The aim of this project is to produce designs for a live horror inspired theatre production. In order to do achieve this I will look at inspiration all times allowing the action of the play to shift quickly between from surrealist movement and the key trends from the 1920s, 1990s and modern day. I have chosen to research these eras as they allow me to scenes with minimal disruption. The location in focus will be demonstrate the clashing time frames in which the action takes place throughout the play. I feel that many of the themes within the surrealist indicated by harsh lighting whilst unused rooms are unlit leav- movement also lend themselves to the characteristics of each individual character bringing depth to their performances and drawing out the ing only shadowy figures moving subtly. The constant move- most important aspects of their role within the narrative. Using a select colour palette also allows me to elevate these themes and offer a fresh ment throughout the set will reflect the busy atmosphere of the interpretation to the original concept. I will be drawing on the history of colour in the horror genre and how I can use it as a tool to create a hotel and the chaotic energy within with lurking shadows and sense of unease and chaos to the designs. constant disruption. -
Alexander Wang
Fashion. Beauty. Business. APRIL 2015 No.1 Alexander Wang The Six Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Fashion. Beauty. Business. APRIL 2015 No.1 The Row The Six Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Christopher Kane J.W. Anderson Introducing the ricky drawstring 888.475.7674 ralphlauren.com The Ricky Sunglass ARMANI.COM/ATRIBUTE 800.929.Dior (3467) Dior.com © 2015 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2015 DRIVEN BY DESIRE esteelauder.com NEW. PURE COLOR ENVY SHINE On Carolyn: Empowered Sculpt. Hydrate. Illuminate. NEW ORIGINAL HIGH-IMPACT CREME AND NEW SHINE FINISH Contents Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Alexander J.W. Wang The Row Anderson Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Chitose Christopher Proenza Abe Kane Schouler Six Covers Photographer Nigel Parry shot the designers for the cover story during a whirlwind global tour. “To be asked to photograph the covers for the launch of the new WWD weekly is a gift to any photographer,” he said. “I’m not saying it was easy — eight designers, six days, three continents — but the jet-lag was kept at bay by meeting such great talents. Thank you WWD!” Cover Story The 168 Fashion has long been obsessed with the new, the fresh, the unexpected, never more so than now. -
Do You Know Grunge?
Do you know grunge? Debora Ferrara Design for the fashion system Politecnico di Milano x index what is grunge history of grunge generation X Kurt Cobain the king of fashion fashion trends xdo you know what are you wearing? rather be dead than cool rath be dead than cool rather be dead than cool rather be deadwhat thanis grunge? cool rather be dead than cool rather be dead than cool rather be dead than cool rath be dead than cool sound- garden nirvana alice in Grunge is a word that became synonymous with the Seattle sound. It’s a word that was used to describe a number chains of different “alternative” bands from the region in 1980s, and then also into the 1990s with bands like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Soundgarden, Alice in Chains, Mudhoney and Screaming Trees. The first noted instance of referring to a Seattle band as “grunge,” was in a 1981 letter by Mark Arm, according to Clark Humphrey in his account of the Seattle music scene, Loser. pearl jam Bruce Pavitt later claimed to have popularized the term as a musical label in 1987, when he wrote some promotional copy for Green River, describing the band as “ultra-loose grunge that destroyed the morals of a generation”. In the late 80s, “grunge” did actually define a sound – high levels of distortion, feedback, fuzz effects, a fusion of punk and metal influences. Many of these bands were on either the C/Z or Sub Pop record labels. Jack Endino, the so-called “Godfather of Grunge” recorded Soundgarden, Mudhoney, Green River, Nirvana and Blood Circus between 1984 and 1989.