HAIR NEW TUNE ONE DIRECTION RAISING LAUNCHES THE HAIR-CARE MARKET IS BOOMING THANKS THEIR FIRST HAMPTONS TO THE GROWTH FRAGRANCE, OF TREATMENTLIKE OUR MOMENT. HOME PRODUCTS. ISAAC MIZRAHI TO OPEN A POP-UP SHOP IN SOUTHAMPTON. PAGE 8 PAGES 10 TO 14 PAGE 16

WORKER SAFETY IN BANGLADESH Senate Panel Blasts U.S. Firms Over Accord

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — U.S. retailers and brands came under fire in the Senate Thursday for refusing, with the exception of three companies, to sign a legally binding Bangladesh fire and safety plan. FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Sen. Robert Menendez (D., N.J.), chairman of the infl uential Foreign Relations Committee, took a hard WWD line against American companies that have formed their own alliance to tackle fi re and building safety issues in Bangladesh after declining to sign an inter- national accord, warning them to get their act togeth- er “sooner rather than later.” The committee stepped into the controversy swirl- ing around inadequate fi re and building safety stan- dards and enforcement in the Asian nation’s apparel industry in the wake of the Rana Plaza building col- lapse in April that has claimed 1,129 lives and a fi re at Tazreen Fashions in November that killed 112 gar- ment workers. “Why is it that only a handful of American retailers have signed on, but many more European companies have signed on to the IndustriALL accord?” asked Menendez, addressing the hearing, which included three Obama administration offi cials and an attor- Ralph ney representing major retail and apparel industry groups. “What confi dence can you give me that there are serious efforts under way by American retailers to help improve labor conditions?” Eric Biel, acting associate deputy undersecretary Revs Up for international affairs at the Department of Labor’s Bureau of International Labor Affairs, noted that the Labor Department is not endorsing any plan, but said, Don’t call it resort. “It is our hope that as some of the details become Ralph Lauren prefers clearer [with implementation of the IndustriALL-led “pre” — in this case, accord], maybe some of those concerns will be obvi- ated and there will be momentum for additional [U.S.] pre-spring, which he brands to sign on, but they have to make their own showed for the fi rst time in determination.” An alliance of North American retailers led by Wal- a formal way on Thursday Mart Stores Inc. and Gap Inc. has declined to sign the at his Madison Avenue’s SEE PAGE 20 women’s store. “Cruise used to be sailor pants and bathing suits, and it’s become a much more J. Crew’s Global Push important season,” Lauren By SHARON EDELSON said, showing the season’s breadth with such looks NEW YORK — J. Crew Group Inc. sees plenty of as this suede wrap coat. “Pre” isn’t the only thing room for expansion. top of the designer’s mind. There’s Polo Red, the The retailer plans to open more stores in the U.S., new fragrance aimed at men who, like him, are even in markets where it already has a presence; ramp up growth in Canada, where it has eight stores; fans of fast cars. For more on resort, see pages open a handful of units in London, the fi rst of which 4 to 7. For more on Polo Red, see page 15. on Regent Street will bow before the holidays, and unveil locations in Hong Kong and Tokyo. Its men’s retail concept, with 10 units, is also ripe for growth, Stuart C. Haselden, chief fi nancial offi cer, told WWD following the company’s fi rst-quarter con- ference call with analysts on Thursday. 2014 Generally, in the U.S., “we’re still identifying op- portunities to densify,” he said. “Beyond that, we’re looking at markets where we’re underrepresented RESORT and continue to evaluate the men’s business, which COLLECTIONS has exciting growth potential.” The retailer opened its fi rst men’s warehouse store on Long Island during the quarter. The expansion plans come as J. Crew’s sales continued to grow in double digits in the fi rst quarter even as profi ts were pressured by markdowns and higher expenses. For the three months ended May 4, net income de- clined 4.5 percent to $29.3 million from $30.7 million in the prior-year quarter. Adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, deprecia- tion and amortization was $101 million, compared to $101.6 million in the fi rst quarter of last year. Total revenues rose 12 percent to $564.1 million PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO from $503.5 million as store sales were up 7.4 percent SEE PAGE 20 2 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 WWD.COM LVMH Files Another Suit Against Hermès THE BRIEFING BOX “I’ll let you decide,” he said. IN TODAY’S WWD By PAULINA SZMYDKE Speaking at LVMH’s annual meeting last April, Arnault said: “ Yo u know, we found ourselves owning PARIS — The legal tussle between LVMH Moët shares in this company…unexpectedly. We had not Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Hermès just got nastier. planned to be shareholders in this firm. We made a LVMH filed civil charges on Tuesday against an financial investment, and that financial investment unidentified manager at Hermès, an LVMH spokes- had an outcome that we had not expected.” man confirmed Thursday without elaborating further. This is the latest lawsuit between the two lux- In an article published in French daily Le ury giants in their increasingly heated battle. As Figaro on Wednesday, LVMH vice president Pierre reported, in September 2012 LVMH filed a suit Godé was quoted as saying the group had filed the against Hermès for slander, blackmail and unfair charges “following what was said by the manager.” competition after Hermès had filed a criminal com- Although vague in his statement, Godé was pre- plaint against LVMH, accusing it of insider trading sumably referring to Patrick Thomas, chief execu- and manipulation. tive officer of Hermès International, who alleged Godé added in Le Figaro: “Hermès’ [multiple] during the company’s annual meeting on Tuesday campaigns [are] aimed to destabilize us. Our A resort look that LVMH had built up its 22.6 percent stake in patience has its limits. It’s time that the public by Balenciaga. Hermès in a “fraudulent” way. learns the truth.” For more Asked by one shareholder how Hermès account- Godé’s statement Tuesday came just days after resort, see ed for a recent declaration by LVMH chairman and the French market authority, the Autorité des WWD.com. ceo Bernard Arnault that he came into the holding Marchés Financiers, recommended that LVMH be unexpectedly, Thomas said “either LVMH is disor- fined 10 million euros, or $13.2 million at current ex- ganized” for not knowing how it came to amass its change, for dissimulating its gradual acquisition of initial 17.1 percent stake — yielding more than a Hermès stocks between 2001 and 2010. U.S. retailers and brands came under fire Thursday for billion euros, or $1.3 billion, in capital gains — or The authority’s enforcement committee is to re- refusing, with the exception of three companies, to sign a Arnault did not tell the truth. veal its final decision no later than July 31. legally binding Bangladesh fire and safety plan. PAGE 1

J. Crew Group Inc. on Thursday said first-quarter profits declined as higher expenses and markdowns offset a double- digit sales gain. PAGE 1 Cool Weather Drags Down Ann Inc. Net Starting today, shoppers can head to Southampton, N.Y., to significant impact on our busi- The company is focusing PAGE 8 By EVAN CLARK see the world of Isaac Mizrahi from his retail lens. ness, primarily at Loft,” said Kay on a number of areas to drive Krill, president and chief execu- growth this year, including The continually shrinking number of retailers reporting NEW YORK — Ann Inc.’s profits tive officer, on a conference call multichannel fulfillment that monthly comparable-store sales emitted some signs of caught a chill in the first quarter. with analysts. makes better use of inventory PAGE 9 Net income fell 27.2 percent Krill said business picked up as across its Web and store op- economic vitality in May. to $20.9 million, or 44 cents a di- the weather grew warmer and that erations, international ship- luted share, from $28.7 million, both Ann Taylor and Loft were on ping and real estate tweaks. After years of flat growth, mass retailers, which generate the or 58 cents, a year earlier. The The company plans to continue bulk of hair-care sales, are once again experiencing a sales retailer warned investors last “right-sizing” its Ann Taylor bounce in the category with three-step regimens. PAGE 10 month that unseasonably cool doors, shifting to its smaller, weather had hurt results. more productive new concept The multitasking philosophy of recent skin-care trends is Sales for the quarter ended 2.5% store layout. Loft is being ex- transforming the often-marginalized hair-care category, even in May 4 gained 2.5 percent to panded into small and midsize the traditionally uninterested prestige retail realm. PAGE 12 $574.5 million from $560.4 ANN INC.’S FIRST-QUARTER markets. million as comparable sales SALES GROWTH. Roxanne Meyer, an analyst Boy band One Direction unveiled its debut women’s slipped 0.5 percent. Comps in at UBS, said the Loft division fragrance, Our Moment, in London Thursday. PAGE 16 Ann Taylor’s mainline business would likely make more use of increased 6.2 percent as Ann track to be more profitable. its omnichannel positioning to Holt Renfrew’s beauty hall makeover proves it’s serious Taylor Factory comped down “We have absolutely realized clear markdowns. “We expect about beauty. PAGE 17 5.8 percent. The Loft business that the first quarter and the third to see an increased use of flash comped down 0.9 percent while quarter need to be more transi- sales and category promos on- Peter Beard, Swizz Beatz, Donna Karan and Carrie Mae Loft Outlet fell 7.9 percent. tional assortment and better bal- line — higher margins than Weems were acknowledged for their contribution to the arts “There is no question that the ance between wear-now and warm- clearing in stores — while store PAGE 18 cold, unseasonable conditions weather product,” the ceo said. promo levels are expected to re- at the Gordon Parks Foundation’s gala Tuesday. during the first quarter had a “Our balance was definitely off.” main in line with last year.” Haider Ackermann is to present what he’s calling a “men wardrobe” for spring 2014 in Paris on June 26. PAGE 19

The NFL recruited Patrick Demarchelier to shoot Stacy American Eagle’s Retail Push in Mexico Keibler Wednesday at Milk Studios to ramp up high fashion in its women’s apparel ad campaign. PAGE 20

By VICKI M. YOUNG ON WWD.COM

AMERICAN EAGLE Outfitters Inc. opened its third RUNWAY: See the latest resort 2014 collections, including store in Mexico today in Guadalajara, less than one Nina Ricci, Jason Wu and Balenciaga, at WWD.com. week after opening its second store in that country in the Santa Fe district of Mexico City, where the CORRECTION Santa Fe mall is the third largest in Latin America. The plan is to have six stores in Mexico by year- Andrew Keith’s title is president of Lane Crawford and Joyce. end, according to Simon Nankervis, senior vice This was incorrect in a story on page 3, Thursday. president, Americas and global country licensing. The first store opened in Mexico City in January. American Eagle TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. The stores will include an aerie presence either as in Mexico City. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. a shop-in-shop or a side-by-side format. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “Mexico has been a phenomenal business for us. VOLUME 205, NO. 116. FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two We have over 1.5 million Facebook fans. When we joint venture or licensing to enable scalability. How additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance enter a market [where the stores are] company owned, fast the Brazilian market can develop will depend Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, we launch our direct-to-consumer business first, then on what “approach the Brazilian government takes Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, our brick-and-mortar store,” Nankervis said. to become a global player,” Nankervis said. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver In addition to the three stores planned for later The licensing model is used in Japan, the Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North this year, the company has inked deals for two store Philippines, Israel and Poland, with deals struc- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. sites for next year in Mexico. Nankervis said the mar- tured for either five, seven or 10 years. The joint Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or ket can support 40 to 50 American Eagle stores, which venture model has greater potential for India and inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine will be opened over the next three to four years pro- Brazil due to the size and scope of the local mar- is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. vided the global economic backdrop remains stable. kets, Nankervis said. American Eagle is also in You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt In Latin America, the biggest market opportuni- China, where it owns and operates its stores. of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request ty is in Mexico, largely because the country has the While U.S. stores can be more than 7,000 square for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at largest population and is the most developed in the feet on average, the overseas stores have a wider www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that region. There are also opportunities in Colombia, square-footage range. Three in Japan are more we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at Panama and Brazil, according to Nankervis. He than 7,000 square feet and three are under that P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED said “Brazil is one of the biggest for growth poten- size. Some stores in Israel are as small as 4,000 ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER tial; it’s a matter of timing,” explaining that right square feet. The store concept is adjusted to fit the UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR now customs and import duties require companies particular space range and still maintain the same DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A to work with different business models, such as a shopping experience. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. T:10”

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Client: L’Oréal USA (0030005503) Document Name: IG_M13HC032W_03.indd Product: Advanced Haircare (HC) Document Path: ME Production:Volumes:ME Production:Loreal:HC:Magazine:M13HC032_Advanced Hair Care:IG_M13H- Job #: 10111908-1252-F0 C032W_03.indd Print/Export Time: 5-16-2013 10:22 PM Font Family: Helvetica Neue (85 Heavy, 65 Medium, 35 Thin, 55 Roman, 25 Ultra Light, 45 Light, 75 Bold; Type 1; OK), ITC Print Scale: 100% Zapf Dingbats (Medium; Type 1; OK) User Name: Congo, Joe (NYC-MEW) Ink Name: CMYK Proof #: 3 Link Name: IG_mce12717b_v4_simpleXtnd_NP_V11.tif (CMYK; 369 ppi; Up to Date; 81.29%), Paris R_KO.ai (Up to Date; PM: Ralph Cirillo 94.76%), AH_COLOR_VIBRANCY_w_1-38-0-0.ai (Up to Date; 99.24%) InDesign Version: CS5.5 Slug Name: BEAUTY MagNwp 4 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 Resort 2014 Nina Ricci Ralph Hits the Runway Two shows — one for retailers, the other, editors. Printed invites with special Ralph Lauren seating cards arrived by hand the day before. The second floor of Ralph Lauren’s women’s store, housed in its own beautiful Madison Avenue mansion, became an intimate salon for the occasion, the sun streaming through the French windows and precise arrangements of white roses and pink peonies filling the space with a sense of spring. Lauren was clearly making a statement about the current market, which other people call resort or cruise, names he considers antiquated given the realities of the season. “Cruise used to be sailor pants and bathing suits, and it’s become a much more important season,” Lauren said, preshow. “It’s not limited to cruise, so I don’t call it cruise anymore. I call it ‘Pre.’” whatever his chosen handle, the full- on runway show was new for the market; in the past, Lauren had shown cruise sporadically, in showroom appointments. here he set the bar high with an elegant production and a lovely, tightly edited selection of clothes. “I wanted to show more of the things that sometimes don’t get shown,” he explained of his decision to join the growing ranks of designers who stage small shows for resort. “sometimes, we have collections that we don’t really promote and they sort of dissipate, and we had a lot of things in there that we really liked, and things that were ahead of the moment.” with retail asking for more deliveries, he felt the time was right to take the leap. “I have stores where I’m the only product, so I have to fill the stores and keep them stimulated,” he said. “It’s a process that I’ve learned because I have my own stores. so, designing these collections, I’m hearing the voice of the retailer, whether they work with you or for: ‘we want more.’” Lauren stressed that unlike the cruise of old, this lineup offered more than just some fill-in merch. “It’s a total concept and well thought out,” he said. “we’ve done presentations before, and I think you sort of miss the story. This is a story.” For this collection, Lauren wanted to make a “very simple, chic statement. The delicacy is very important. Everything is light, so she could be wearing it in the fall, she could be wearing it in the spring.” The color palette — black, white, lavender and pink — underscored that notion. his first look — a pretty combination of a pink wrap cashmere top teamed with a silk georgette skirt — loosely read “ballerina.” so did much of the rest of the lineup, like the transparent silk and leather panel cape with a camisole and leggings. some of the looks Nina Ricci: oh, the problems of a Nina Ricci girl in this featured a graphic, black and white Deco cold, hard world. “she’s a Parisian headed south,” said print, like a pleated summer dress with Peter Copping of his resort inspiration. “she’s fed up leather strips that had a refreshing sense with the bad weather and craving summer clothes and of movement. A tote with the designer’s sun.” No one will feel bad for her, given the wardrobe name in bold, cursive script added a Copping dreamed up and presented in an intimate touch of whimsy to a floor-length black show in New York. If the pacing of the presentation dress with a striped cape. was a little awkward, the clothes were pitch-perfect If there was any pressure about adding — a mixture of doll-like flirtation, sophistication and another runway presentation, Lauren house heritage. Eyelet, a sweet summer fabric if there didn’t show it. “I thought about it for a ever was one, came in combinations of crisp white with bit, but I’m glad I did it,” he said. “I think traces of yellow or purple, ruffled up on a bustier dress it elevated the story and elevated the and a cotton top. Bright tweed suits — short jackets next season. And I think it’s part of the and minis with flared hems — were worn with flat business that’s not going to go away.” sandals for grounded ease. More womanly were looks —Marc KariMzadeh derived from a series of archival house scarves, which Copping chopped up and draped into body-skimming halter dresses and skirts. The designer knows how to

w07a004(5)a;7.indd 1 6/6/13 8:01 PM 06062013200150 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Nina Ricci Jean Paul Gaultier Jason Wu Sonia Rykiel

For more images, see WWD.com/ runway. MITRA DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND ROBERT JOHN AQUINO, BY PHOTOS

deliver glamour — gowns in stretch radzimir, slinky papery linen A-line jacket and matching miniskirt. Sonia Rykiel: Geraldo da Conceicao’s first resort satin and lace cut a sexy silhouette — yet his casual collection for sonia Rykiel is a fresh and easy side was spot-on, too, in a series of trenches, such as a Jason Wu: “It’s all about texture,” said Jason wu take on the spirit of the house and a quiet chicly rumpled style that folds up into its own pochette. of resort, which nicely evolved his sophisticated, evolution of his first runway outing last season. ladylike proclivities with a new sense of ease. working mostly on separates and dresses and Jean Paul Gaultier: Playing subtly on the house’s codes, working a silhouette that was long and lean, the keeping the shapes simple, he mixed knit with Jean Paul Gaultier infused the lineup with a playful designer amped up his play with surfaces. For woven pieces, showing a double-breasted Milano reinterpretation of glamour elements, such as slits example, he combined a coated basket-weave cotton knit jacket in microstripes with a Prince of placed on a sheath evening dress, the side leg of fluid with tweed and satin on one dress, which was also wales masculine pant. Knitwear is an important pants or on sleeves of tailored jackets. Gaultier also embellished with black caviar beads and mico- part of the Rykiel heritage, and da Conceicao showed black fishnet fabrics veiling jackets and big sequins in the form of botanical motifs. (This is resort, proposed quite a range, from graphic intarsia straw hats, or on T-shirts and dresses featuring silk after all.) It may sound busy, but wu executed these dresses to sharp-and-chic pleated skirts done ribbons that offered a new take on his signature stripe looks with a sense of control and graphic precision in bold sorbet colors — “bright but not harsh,” sweater. A silk twill scarf fabric, reminiscent of head for an impressively clean effect. Equally striking as da Conceicao said. To give the collection an scarves worn by Fifties movie stars in sports cars, was his take on denim. Rather than go for a classic injection of youthful cool, the designer topped was used for pants, tops or pajama-style suits printed jeans fabric, wu used a denim-treated silk for chic looks with oversize kimono-sleeve biker jackets, with retro flowers and men’s tie motifs. The house’s dresses and skirts. It brought a new refinement to the and accessorized with giant nylon backpacks and reeditions line also inspired such looks as a blue American sportswear staple. little bowling bags.

w07a004(5)a;7.indd 2 6/6/13 8:01 PM 06062013200206 6 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013

Elizabeth and James Nanette Lepore Hugo Boss

2014 RESORT COLLECTIONS

Elizabeth and James: “Our tied around the waist for a collection, these made for Rebecca Minkoff: The last days of Rena Lange: Annick Gorman’s customer has a casual little affected nonchalance. perfect L.A. fare. punk in early-Eighties California first outing as creative director approach to fashion,” said To underscore the sporty is just the sort of multilayered of Rena Lange was a refreshing Mary-Kate Olsen. “We wanted chic mood, the looks were Hugo Boss: Hugo Boss women’s reference that Rebecca and light lineup. She began everything to be very clean, accessorized with oversize creative director Eyan Allen Minkoff ’s girls love. There with Caribbean colors, a and allow the accessories and clutches and graphic riffs on focused on retail-friendly were aggressive tiger stripes on palette of rich blues ranging shoes to be the pop.” True to shower sandals. silhouettes for resort, showing sweatshirts and calf-hair coats, from turquoise to navy, and a her word, silhouettes tended clean lines and classic tailoring safety-pinned shoulders on a nautical vibe. Sporty jackets, toward the minimal: a basic Nanette Lepore: A “California with subtle yet interesting T-shirt and a classic nubby tweed striped dresses and a dress white tank paired with slouchy Dreaming” vibe permeated details. The spare cuts of a that was reimagined in modern embroidered with a seagull wide-leg trousers, for example, Nanette Lepore’s resort cropped jacket and slim pants shapes — a fit-and-flare dress, motif were key looks. Then and a black collarless jacket lineup, which featured several were jazzed up in jewel-toned slim pants and a moto jacket Gorman transitioned to a worn over a midi skirt with beachy lace-trimmed peasant jacquard, and a slim cobalt- with leather sleeves. As for the Parisian affair: a feminine sheer white shirt done in a tops and a rich blue tile print blue strapless dress was handbags that started it all for take on suits done with chiffon Greek key motif — also used used for jumpsuits and flirty accented with matching leather the designer, they popped in insets, and a lingerie influence on a paneled white shift — dresses. Like most of the at the bust. neon and clear plastic. with lace slips and camisoles. WWD friday, june 7, 2013 7 WWD.COM

Rebecca Minkoff Rena Lange Giulietta ICB tess Giberson

Pamella trina Jen Kao Roland turk

For more images, see

WWD.com/ ERICKSEN STEVE EICHNER AND KYLE runway. THOMAS IANNACCONE, CHINSEE, GEORGE BY PHOTOS

Giulietta: Casting the Seventies ICB: After watching Solange tess Giberson: “The season “Glass House,” Pamella Roland to tony Pebble Beach, while a through a graphic, sophisticated Knowles’ “Losing You” video on started for me with Bauhaus worked a steel and glass cozy sweater paired with ikat- lens, Sofia Sizzi reworked classic repeat, Prabal Gurung looked and the idea of craft motif through bead work and patterned shorts fit the laid- silhouettes of the era with an eye to the colors and patterns of coupling with technical,” Plexiglas embroideries on day- back vibe of Santa Cruz. toward quirky chic. Sizzi’s strong Cape Town for ICB resort. “Cool said Tess Giberson of resort. to-evening dresses. Shapes sense of color came through in prints and great colors,” said She translated this with were classic Roland — strapless Jen Kao: Jen Kao stripped a black tuxedo look with flared Gurung of his key elements. approachable, clean shapes gowns, fit-and-flare and body- down her resort collection to pants and a white shawl collar “They are happy clothes.” and lots of details. A sweatshirt, skimming cocktail styles. minimalist apron dresses and on the jacket. It was paired He took a buy-now-wear- for example, was tempered jackets that were collarless or with a beige pleated blouse now approach to the season, with cutouts and embroidered trina turk: The 17-mile stretch of had their bottoms lopped off. with a tie neck. Other standouts showing great cold weather accents, while a tank dress California’s central coastline While there was an abundance of included a mustard-colored outerwear with leather details, was cut in half, then sewn back — from Carmel to Santa Cruz clean white, she offered graphic dress with a trompe l’oeil blouse sequin trousers fit for the together for an off-kilter effect. — got Trina Turk thinking bits of pattern in pop colors that collar and side cutouts that holiday party circuit and plenty for resort. A shorts suit in a were loosely inspired by a recent packaged interesting details in a of prints on T-shirts to dresses Pamella Roland: Inspired by jaunty stripe and an elegant Jean-Michel Basquiat exhibit at completely wearable form. to transition to warmer months. architect Philip Johnson’s crepe jumpsuit were suited the Gagosian Gallery.

w07a006(7)a;6.indd 2 6/6/13 8:34 PM 06062013203516 8 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 Mizrahi Heads to Southampton creates a designer’s signature be- By VICKI M. YOUNG cause what she buys encourages The facade of the shop. the parts of what the designer SOUTHAMPTON, N.Y. — creates.” The designer also lik- Welcome to Isaac World. ened the feedback from the con- Starting today through Sept. sumer as a dialogue, and that “re- 30, shoppers can head east from tail completes the conversation.” Manhattan to see the world of So what has he learned this

Isaac Mizrahi from his retail lens. year? SULLIVAN The store at 44A Main Street “Woven blouses are not a here is a pop-up concept at 1,250 great business for me to be in STEPHEN

square feet that will feature ap- right now. The sweater business product. We are more like a good BY parel, accessories, fragrance, is amazing. It keeps changing. merchant [than a retailer], who

costume jewelry, swimwear and Years ago, I created this high likes to see the product hung to- PHOTOS items manufactured solely for wedgie, lightweight slide that gether. I think of it as a fun party Items inside the Isaac Mizrahi shop. the Southampton community, was so comfortable. It was a more than a retail shop.” such as items showing local land- fantastic business for 10 years. Owned by Xcel Brands Inc. anges that sell. I don’t know why. our dresses, denim and pulling marks or the area’s zip code. It was a signature item. Yo u since September 2011, there are I’m just noticing that in general together all of our inventory.” Why Southampton? reach a saturation point and currently 45 licensees for 100 across the board,” Mizrahi said. While he does get some “I can’t say exactly why. I like then it went away. Now it’s come categories for the Isaac Mizrahi With the creative element feedback from retail partners, it. It’s just the right kind of a place back. The new version of that brand. Product launches total 26 under Mizrahi’s control, that D’Loren said “There’s nothing for the brand,” said Mizrahi. is a chunky, lightweight slide categories to date, and almost left the business details in the like getting that information That said, the store is on the that’s also taller now in terms of all categories will be represent- hands of Robert D’Loren, chief first-hand. We will be experienc- main shopping street that also height,” Mizrahi said. ed in the store. executive officer of Xcel. ing that at the local level.” houses other high-end boutiques, Having a store could also mean The store format is gallery- “This pop-up is part of our D’Loren considers brands galleries and restaurants. more dollars down the road. styled featuring clear shelving strategy to be omnichannel,” such as Michael Kors and Tory “I think it’s a thriving retail “When you present the brand suspended on cable against a said D’Loren, who disclosed Burch as direct competitors, area. It’s close to where I live,” in its entirety you get a lot bet- backdrop of white walls. While that the timing is right for the given comparable merchandise Mizrahi said. ter feedback. One product pulls there’s a fitting room and cash planning of a store base after focus and opening price points While nothing immediate has along the other products. She wrap section for packaging, trans- spending two years reposition- for some items. Kors and Burch been planned regarding person- sees shoes she likes, then picks actions are through associates ing the Mizrahi brand. also have a growing store base. al meet-and-greet visits from the up bags or dresses,” he said. carrying iPads that also facilitate D’Loren knows it won’t be an The goal is to take the learn- designer, Mizrahi said that there Mizrahi compared that to poli- the checking of in-store inventory. easy task: “A couple of things ings from operating the pop-up “may be a little of that.” More tics. “It’s like a political party What one notices against we’re going to learn from op- so more stores can open, initially importantly, the close proximity vote. If you’re a Democrat, you the backdrop is lots of color, erating this store is how do we in the New York metropolitan to his residence will allow him vote all the way down the tick- from purples to greens, reds to step into our retail partners’ area, where D’Loren said the to keep his finger on the con- et,” the designer said. oranges and all the hues in be- shoes. We buy the collection of brand can support 10 locations. sumer pulse: “I plan to keep my The store was pulled togeth- tween that Mizrahi is known for merchandise the way our de- Retail corridors eyed down the eye on it.” er in less than a month, with in his collections. partment store retail partners road in New York City include Mizrahi said learning from the lease signed in early May. “Right now, everything we view our brands and [will learn] the Flatiron District and SoHo, the consumer helps him and his Mizrahi, who could hardly con- have in green and purple sells re- what it’s like to put everything and elsewhere in the better mall staff understand “her lifestyle.” tain his enthusiasm, said of the ally quickly, which is the reverse under one roof. That means co- locations in New Jersey and on He said it is the “customer that pop-up, “This is really about the from the usual pinks and or- ordinating our footwear with Long Island.

New Designer to Watch: Rosie Assoulin Dexter-Jones Launches Fine Jewelry

NEW YORK — Rosie bracelets and rings inspired by Wilson A look Rosie By RACHEL STRUGATZ Assoulin comes with an Assoulin Pickett’s song “In the Midnight Hour” impressive résumé. Even from Rosie and Don McLean’s song “Vincent” though she decided that Assoulin. NEW YORK — Ann Dexter-Jones qui- (widely known as “Starry Starry the Fashion Institute of STEVE EICHNER etly started making jewelry three-and- Nights”), respectively. Dexter-Jones Technology was not the a-half years ago — and on Tuesday her also has a selection of enamel rings, right environment for her fine jewelry line, Ann Dexter-Jones as well as “Fairy Bracelets” fashioned after just four months, the PHOTOS BY Design, will make its official launch at from colored stones strung on 18-karat Brooklyn native got some the Park Avenue Garage Sale. gold wire. Prices start in the few hun- hands-on experience with Dexter-Jones’ daughter, Samantha dred dollars for certain Recession internships for Oscar de la Ronson, will DJ at the event, to be Pearls pieces and can go up to nearly Renta and Alber Elbaz at held on West 56th Street here, and a $3,800 for a solid sterling silver brace- Lanvin in Paris, a freelance percentage of proceeds will go to The let with gold overlay on the ID plate. stint with Adam Lippes and Couture Council, the group dedicated All pieces are made by artisans in working with her friend, de- them before,”Assoulin said. to supporting the Fashion Institute Manhattan’s Gem District. signer Brian Reyes. Over “They came from nowhere, of Technology’s The Museum at FIT. Dexter-Jones cheekily described the years, she also worked and both were telling me, Dexter-Jones is also donating an ad- her collection, now sold at Barneys for Lee Angel’s Roxanne ‘Rosie, do it. You’d be crazy to ditional percentage of proceeds to the New York, Harrods and Colette, as Assoulin, the costume jewel- do it, but even crazier not to.’ school for scholarships for gifted stu- “rock ’n’ roll chic jewels for women ry designer who is the mother “They saw my passion, dents unable to afford tuition. and secure men.” of her husband and business they gave me the extra “Whilst touring for decades with my The Park Avenue Garage Sale is partner, Max. push,” she added. ex-husband’s [Mick Jones of Foreigner] a luxury pop-up sale of discounted Her real fashion awaken- The woman she designs rock ’n’ roll band, while they had sound luxury home and fashion merchan- ing, however, came at a much for, Assoulin said, is a ver- check, I would love heading to flea dise drawn from personal collec- earlier age when her grand- sion of herself. “Most of the markets,” said Dexter-Jones of discov- tions, showrooms and designers, styl- mother, also named Rosie, things come from needs in ering ID bracelets during her travels. ists and socialites. The sale starts gave a sewing machine to the my own wardrobe.” “Every [region] — be it Europe, Asia, Tuesday and runs through Friday budding fashion designer. The lineup is elegant with South America, Australasia — has its and will take place at the former “I’d go to my parents’ many sensual touches. There own shape [and] personality, but all Felissimo space at 10 West 56th basement and cut up vintage are separates as well as eve- had the same ID chain.” Street. Each night benefits a differ- clothes she’d kept,” the de- ningwear. Many pieces are She observed that ID bracelets were ent charity, including The Couture signer, who has an infectious energy, re- adorned with feminine details — she added round and concave in Japan, while in Council, ACRIA and Partnership with called. “I’d make new outfits.” a sash, for instance, on cigarette pants and other parts of Asia they were convex Children. Designers taking part, in Creating clothes, she added, quickly dresses. “I also love a button-down shirt, I or even oval. Throughout Europe, the addition to Dexter-Jones, include became a little escape for her, a fantasy love a ballgown,” she said. “I love a pencil bracelets looked much like they do in Douglas Hannant, Prabal Gurung, world where she could hone her day- skirt, a peacoat and a safari jacket.” America — chain-linked with a rectan- Alexa Hampton, Jed Johnson, Philip dream of becoming a real designer. Now Suggested retail prices are from about gular bar. Gorrivan and Bibhu Mohapatra. the mother of three-year-old son Meyer $600 to $5,000 for special evening gowns, “In Hong Kong, I said to myself, (and a second child on the way) is real- though the average will be around $1,100 ‘Why doesn’t someone design a glam, izing her dream with her launch resort to $1,800. Max Assoulin declined to dis- rock ’n’ roll bracelet inlaid with lapis, collection, which she will unveil with a close sales projections, but said the plan with gold screws and yellow dia- presentation in the Meatpacking District is to grow the line in a measured way with monds, instead of a thin, tin or sil- on Monday. hopes to sell it to 25 specialty stores in the ver one?’” A piece from She said the decision to launch her first season. A solid silver ID bracelet with Ann Dexter-Jones Design. own line was hastened by the recent suc- “I just had to do it, I couldn’t talk about lapis inlay and yellow diamonds cesses of two close friends, Fivestory’s it anymore,” she said of launching her col- was the first one she created. From Claire Distenfeld and The Man Repeller’s lection. “Nobody could hear me talk about there, her collection expanded to Leandra Medine. “They started something it anymore.” include a range of Midnight Hour in an industry that had never heard of — MARC KARIMZADEH watches and Starry Nights necklaces, WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 9 WWD.COM Seasonal Temps Boost May Comps

Limited Brands, fell just below the housing market, consumer what people look for. You’re consistent strength. “I under- By ARNOLD J. KARR the 3.2 percent anticipated confidence — and there’s a really starting to get a sense of stand that J.C. Penney wouldn’t with a 3 percent pickup, while sense of consistency. That’s confidence among consumers.” want to be judged on a month- THE CONTINUALLY SHRINK- its Victoria’s Secret unit was Investors apparently agreed, by-month basis and needs to be ing number of retailers report- ahead of estimates with a 4 per- sending the S&P 500 Retailing dealing with issues on a more ing monthly comparable-store cent gain, against a 2.8 percent Industry Group up 9.34 points, strategic level, but Macy’s was sales emitted some signs of eco- positive estimate, and Bath MAY or 1.2 percent, to 781.07 doing quite well when it pulled nomic vitality in May. & Body Works matched Wall Thursday, stronger than the out this time.” Stores benefited from the ar- Street’s forecast with a 3 per- Comparable Sales 0.5 and 0.9 percent increases Macy’s previously stopped rival of more seasonal tempera- cent advance. % Change logged, respectively, by the Dow and restarted its monthly re- tures in much of the U.S. and a With respective comp in- Jones Industrial Average and porting before discontinuing American Apparel 10 generally positive, although far creases of 10, 8.2 and 4.1 ...... the S&P 500. the practice at the end of its last from bullish, selling environ- percent, American Apparel Old Navy 9 Last month’s lineup reflected fiscal year. ment. The majority of compa- Inc., Stein Mart Inc. and The ...... decisions by the nation’s two Craig Johnson, president nies performed better than the Buckle Inc. exceeded esti- Stein Mart 8.2 largest off-price retailers, The of Customer Growth Partners, ...... expectations rounded up by mates, and Cato Corp.’s 2 TJX Cos. Inc. and Ross Stores pointed out that the shrunken Gap 8 Thomson Reuters, which antici- percent decline was half the ...... Inc., to cease monthly reporting sample provides less visibility pated a median performance of size of the drop-off expected. Costco * 5 after the end of the first quarter about the overall condition of a 3.7 percent increase. Zumiez Corp. fell shy of its ex- ...... of the retail calendar and in- sales in the fashion sector. Among the companies beat- pected 2.3 percent increase, Buckle 4.1 stead disclose their comps quar- “The non-reporters tend to ing estimates was Gap Inc., picking up 1.1 percent...... terly, pulling $35.6 billion in an- have weaker results than the re- Victoria’s Secret 4 which late Thursday reported “There aren’t that many ...... nual sales — $25.88 billion for porters,” he noted, “and most of that overall comparable sales numbers, but the ones we’re Bath & Body Works 3 TJX and $9.72 billion for Ross the apparel players still report- were up 7 percent, well above seeing are pretty close to esti- ...... — out of the monthly sample. ing are relatively small niche the 4.1 percent expected, with mates and also higher, gener- Perfumania 1.6 That sample is now dominated players. Overall, I’d say that Old Navy and Gap posting gains ally more than 3 percent,” said ...... by Costco Wholesale Corp., Gap retail is softer these days than Zumiez 1.1 of 9 and 8 percent, respectively, Barbara Kahn, director of the ...... Inc. and L Brands. Thursday’s numbers might lead versus anticipated increases Jay H. Baker Retailing Center Banana Republic 0 Commenting on the decision you to think.” of 5.8 and 4.2 percent. Banana at the Wharton School of the ...... by many retailers to stop report- He said year-to-date retail Republic was flat last month, University of Pennsylvania. Cato -2 ing monthly comps, Kahn noted sales are up about 2.7 percent, failing to meet the 1.2 percent “We are starting to see consis- that some that have continued with second-quarter perfor- SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS increase expected. tently better news about the * Excludes fuel sales. the practice — Costco, Gap and mance “running a touch below L Brands Inc., formerly economy — the stock market, L Brands — have demonstrated that figure.”

Nordstrom Details Canadian Plans Skin Women’s Line Set for Barneys “We curate high-low — that’s our growing geometrically versus arithmetically By CONSTANCE DROGANES product mix. To have all that under By KARYN MONGET with all the right stores. For innerwear, we one roof will be appreciated by are in approximately 45 doors of major de- TORONTO — Nordstrom Inc. has Canadians,” said McKibbin. LUXURY LOUNGEWEAR, lingerie and ac- partment stores and 230 other independents. big plans for Canada. Canadian consumers will see cessories brand Skin will be making its first “Our brand is definitely expanding Revealing more details of the some differences in prices on cer- foray into women’s apparel. into the sportswear arena launching with U.S. retailer’s plans for expan- tain products due to taxes, duties The trendy Zen-inspired brand — which Barneys. We have developed our own sports- sion north of the border, Karen and tariff charges. “What that dif- specializes in layered, soft separates that wear fabrications, which are in the same McKibbin, president of Nordstrom ferential will mean we don’t know can be worn at home or as casual sports- vein as our brand DNA…sophisticated, easy Canada, said the first store will yet,” said McKibbin. wear — will launch a capsule collection of care and comfortable.” open in fall 2014 in Chinook “We’ve yet to purchase one soft, contemporary clothing in September Sitomer would not give an annual sales Centre in Calgary. Eight to 10 piece of merchandise for any of that will be sold exclusively at 19 Barneys figure, but noted that “sales have been dou- stores are planned in Canada, our stores. That’s more than a year New York stores. bling every season.” including openings in Ottawa’s out,” McKibbin explained. “But Susan Beischel, president, designer and In addition to a men’s wear license, the Rideau Centre and Vancouver’s from what we’re learning from our creative director, described the 15-piece company is exploring the potential in the Pacific Centre in 2015, followed vendors and distributors here in collection as “silhouettes that are slim and bath, body and fragrance areas. by Toronto launches in 2016 at Canada, there will be a price differ- close to the body with some Sherway Gardens and Yorkdale ential on certain products.” ease and relief in toppers and Looks from Shopping Centre. Nordstrom’s expansion plan sweaters. This is dressed-up ca- the capsule The company’s expansion will includes the launch of a checkout sual dressing composed of the collection. also include the opening of 15 off- app to allow customers to purchase perfect pant, the luxe legging, price Nordstrom Rack stores across items wherever they wish through- sophisticated sweats and fitted Canada, as well as the creation of out its stores. Sales associates will soft-stretch uptown blazers with a separate online site. The online also have mobile devices on hand to downtown every-wear appeal. component should make its debut service customers more effectively. “It’s sophisticated yet com- with Nordstrom’s Ottawa opening Like their U.S. counterparts, fortable,” said Beischel. “The in 2015. Canadian staff will be trained to fabrics we make from scratch “In today’s market you can’t have make customer service a memora- are variations of 100 percent a great Web site and inferior store ble experience for consumers. They cotton, blends of cotton Lycra and vice versa. Yo u have to have will also be encouraged to make de- spandex and alpaca wool.” All both. Anything less is outdated,” cisions on the floor without going production is in Peru. McKibbin said at Store Conference up the usual chain of command. Suggested retail will be $160 2013 here. “There are no rule books here,” to $250 for blazers, $130 to $190 “We wanted to enter the McKibbin told WWD after her pre- for leggings and $240 to $360 for Canadian market for years. The sentation. “We empower people to sweaters. Tops will sell for $60 challenge was finding the right real make good decisions in real time. to $125. estate,” said McKibbin, who start- Some people aren’t comfortable Ken Sitomer, chief executive ed her career with Nordstrom in with that, but our employees, from officer of Skin and a partner in 1985 as a stock person. “Canadians the sales team to the guy in house- a private investment group be- are highly educated fashion cus- keeping, must answer their own hind the brand, said he is ex- tomers, so we’re bringing the full internal call to action to do what ploring opportunities to open a Nordstrom experience to them. needs to be done and make sure our freestanding store in Manhattan Canadians have no appetite for customers leave happy.” in 2014, as well as licensing op- Nordstrom Lite.” Nordstrom Canada’s new leader- tions and expansion in interna- Excluding customers, particu- ship team will be hired in Calgary tional markets. larly in terms of pricing, should and then spend three months train- “At the moment, we have spe- also be a thing of the past, accord- ing with mentors in the company’s cialty store business in Japan, ing to McKibbin. Seattle headquarters. Greece and Mexico, and we “We build gorgeous stores, yet “This is going to be a Canadian are in serious discussions in sometimes these beautiful stores store run by Canadians,” said McK- Europe,” said Sitomer. “We have cause people to hesitate and think ibbin. “The Calgary store will cre- been feverishly looking at spaces that this might be too expensive for ate 300 new jobs for the commu- for a freestanding store in down- us. That’s not so,” said McKibbin. nity. Our new leaders will get the town Manhattan.…We are also in

As in the U.S., the 112-year-old chance to mentor with talent in the the process of speaking to poten- THOMAS IANNACCONE specialty fashion retailer will feature States. If I was young and starting tial licensees, but that is a matter a mix of price points and product to out again I’d find this exciting to be of going through the ‘process.’

appeal to all Canadian consumers. part of.” Meanwhile, our U.S. business is PHOTOS BY 10 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 WWD.COM beauty Carita’s Haute Beauté Source Reflect. Technology Drives Mass Hair Sales The only stagnant subcategory was styl- tive. retailers are relying on the push By Faye Brookman ing aids with less than a 1 percent gain. from suppliers to tell the story. Pantene no worry, said retailers, because they takes on the aging issue head-on with its neW york — Consumers are getting con- expect the third product — or treatments expert Collection, tapping Courteney Cox ditioned to a three-step hair-care regimen. aimed at specific hair concerns — to off- as a spokeswoman. another example is That’s welcome news to mass retailers, set the styling segment’s slump. Buyers nexxus’ youth renewal, which includes which generate the bulk of the category’s are quick to add treatment items aren’t a skin-care-like serum and trumpets the sales. after years of flat growth, they are totally new — there have been specialty message that the line “combats eight signs once again experiencing a sales bounce products for years. What’s different now of aging hair.” Buyers said L’oréal soft- in the category. Without an expanding is that consumers are more educated pedals the aging message with advanced number of heads to wash or an uptick in about their benefits from buying skin care Care. “It is a more positive spin,” said one shampooing, the only route to growth is in mass stores, as well as doing their own merchant. “all the trends indicate that selling additional products. online research. and, perhaps the biggest with the aging of the population, it is a nat- The focus on treatments is a con- factor, brands have helped by stepping up ural progression to talk about things like cept born in the neighboring skin-care educational efforts. The goal is to trade hair thinning. But the key is to do it in an aisle. Both mass and prestige marketers consumers from a commoditized, one- upbeat message — not that you are getting are borrowing a page from the catego- size-fits-all “quick fix,” to a multistep regi- old,” she said, adding consumers don’t like ry by launching antiaging formulas, as men, according to L’oréal Paris president aging thrown in their faces. well as products targeting scalp health. karen Fondu. L’oréal’s advanced Care, no matter how overt or subtle, the Ingredients commonly found in skin-care which was five years in the making, con- message is resonating with shoppers. products, such as caffeine and panthenol, sists of five clinically tested regimens of more importantly, people are buying the are increasingly showing up on hair-care shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment. new skin-care-inspired hair lines with- labels. What’s more, BB and CC creams The latter is billed as a critical step. The out siphoning from existing lines — or are now part of the hair-care lexicon. ranges address restoring hair, fighting professional brands sold at mass. “We “The skin-care category has done frizz, hydrating, color protect- still have a Suave Carita Takes well at promoting the idea of steps. In ing and strengthening. customer. The new hair care, there is more opportunity [to “Consumers are starting brands haven’t im- 4-Step Approach explain] the role of a great conditioner to understand the treatment pacted professional. and shampoo with a treatment product They really seem to and how they can help you,” said David serve an unmet need. By JennIFer WeIL rubin, marketing director for hair at Special RepoRt: and the treatment Unilever. retailers list launches such products give us ‘one ParIS — The traditional shampoo- as Pantene’s expert collection, L’oréal more item in the cart’ conditioner, one-two punch in hair Paris advanced Haircare, nexxus youth AdvAnced that was important in salons is becoming a thing of the renewal, alterna’s Caviar antiaging a mature category like past for Carita Paris. Shampoo and Unilever’s Clear Scalp & HAir cAre hair care,” noted one The Shiseido-owned brand ear- Hair Beauty Therapy as collections caus- retail vice president. lier this year started introducing, ing seismic shifts in their planograms That was some- in 50 France- and Japan-based sa- — the first in 20 years when diverted process for hair,” said what of a surprise, lons, the 40-unit hair-care brand professional names began nabbing shelf Shannon Curtin, divi- said industry consul- Haute Beauté Professionnelle and space. most of these recent launches in- sional vice president tant allan mottus, who its associated four-step ritual. clude a “third or fourth step,” necessitat- and general mer- recalled that at first Carita parlayed its skin-care ex- ing extra display space near the sham- chandising manager blush, experts thought pertise into the world of hair care, poos and conditioners. To make room, for beauty, personal the new lines would according to the label. chains said they sliced facings of slower- care and seasonal at offset a slowdown in The new line includes 16 products moving shampoos or conditioners and Walgreens, using ex- professional brands, for stylists to use at the sink, three edited out some styling aids. amples of Pantene which had some price technical items and 21 retail products. “We are trying to merchandise these expert Collection and resistance during the In salons, the first two steps new items the way consumers think L’ oréal Paris advanced downturn and aren’t for the client focus on their hair’s when they come to purchase at the Haircare. The trend always readily avail- roots and include “preparation,” store,” said one buyer. The dollar out- isn’t just in the drug- able at mass. The entailing deep cleansing, which come is expected to be worth the shuffle. store channel. “The numbers tell the is followed by an “activate” step after a few years of flat growth or de- category is advanc- story — advanced using serums. Phases three and clines in many hair-care departments, ing from one where Care already has four, “reveal” and “sublimate,” are volume is inching up. Shampoo sales for the guest simply used sales of $22.5 million meant to fortify, protect, embellish the 52-week period ended may 19 in total to grab her item and A trio from Nexxus Salon Hair in less than seven and shape hair fibers. U.S. multioutlets (supermarkets, drug- go to one that is an in- Care Youth Renewal. months, according “We [have moved] to a proto- stores, mass-market retailers, military spirational beauty ex- to IrI. and industry col much more complete,” said commissaries and select club and dol- perience she wants to explore, be edu- sources believe it could develop into a Carita Paris’ hairstylist director lar retail chains), rose 2 percent to $2.6 cated about and try new things in,” said $100 million brand. Tom marcireau. billion, according to the SymphonyIrI Christina Hennington, vice president of The only issue is whether the repeat “It’s a program created by Group. Conditioner volume for the same health and beauty at Target. “This new purchases will be as high as hoped, es- professionals for professionals,” period gained 6.2 percent to $1.8 billion. mind-set is creating even greater demand pecially because retailers aren’t sure the added Carole agathopoulos, mar- for newness, innovation and im- ancillary items will have a fast “use-up” keting manager at the brand. proved technologies in antiaging, rate. So far, one drugstore chain has seen retail prices in France for the Select items scalp health and product efficacy.” sales ebb and flow drastically from month products range from 23 euros, or from Clear Specialty boutiques, such as to month on advanced Care, based some- $30.55 at current exchange, for a Scalp & GBS The Beauty Store, an outfit what on promotion. “It has been a short 250-ml. shampoo to 60 euros, or Hair Beauty of six stores located in Florida, halo period for a launch,” the executive $79.65, for a 50-ml. serum. a set of Therapy. were among the first to see the noted. yet at a Shoprite in new Jersey, 10 7.5-ml bottles of intensive hair movement. “What is the latest in the health and beauty aids manager said treatment to combat hair loss goes antiaging trends? Hair care. The she’s constantly restocking the line. for 80 euros, or $106.20. aging process really does affect The other question, as with new lines, Carita executives would not dis- your hair,” said ken Bern, founder is the need for every item to perform in cuss sales projections, but industry and president of GBS. “From a re- a competitive category, where every inch sources estimate Haute Beauté tail standpoint, we start introduc- of real estate is crucial. one drugstore Professionnelle will ring up 1 mil- ing customers in their Thirties to chain found that consumers gravitate to- lion euros, or $1.3 million, in first- antiaging hair-care regimens.” ward the Total repair 5 collection within year retail revenues. GBS even hosts a Healthy Hair the advanced Care line with those items The line will be rolled out fur- month once a year where experts outselling the Power moisture collection ther starting in 2014. It is to enter give “prescriptions” for hair three to one. Some price points are ques- about 1 percent of high-end salons health. Chain executives added tioned, such as the $20 tag on Pantene’s in France, or approximately 600 the “third products” that already Pro-V expert ageDefy advanced locations, within three years, for are proven hits at retail include Thickening Treatment. However, drug- instance, according to marcireau. a

the onslaught of oils, as well as store chains such as Walgreens have suc- R In another twist, Carita’s Cinetic

keratin formulas. cessfully sold its premium family mem- Mit Lift expert tool, which the compa- t “We feel consumer accep- ber, nioxin, at twice that retail. There’s R ny had formerly only used on skin,

tance of these [items] shows also been little resistance in the skin-care Robe is now available for hair, employ-

a real interest in maintain- department to prices as witnessed by the by ing ultrasound and/or LeD lights ing healthier hair,” said one popularity of olay Pro-X and other high- in one of the brand’s most in-depth

top drugstore chain execu- end skin-care items. photos treatments, Les Soins d’exception.

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ing for the fountain of youth.” youth.” of fountain the for ing y d o b y r e v e “ t a h t t n i o p e h t s e k a m . d i a s e h ” , r i a h g n i k o o l - r e g n u o y r o f . r i a h d e g a m a d e r o t s e r s p l e h d n a s w o r g r i a h e h t , s r e b fi n i e t o r p

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your skin-care routine feels like like feels routine skin-care your r e d n u o f , n n a m b e i L y d n e W o t d n o b n e g a l l o c d n a s e d i m a r e C “ , e l p m a x e r o F “ . d i a s e h ” , k r o w - m o c y t i t n e g n i v i l n o n a y l l a i t

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want to look younger, and treat- and younger, look to want g n i t t e l “ d n a g n i l p m a s g n i e l p o e p o t d i a s , s e d i m a r e c d n a n e g a l l o c n i k s n i d n u o f o s l a e r a n o i t c e l l o c f o o e c d n a t n e d i s e r p , n o m o l o S

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the rest of their skin-care routines. skin-care their of rest the n i t n e c r e p 2 3 d n a , 2 1 0 2 n i t n e c y n a m h t i w s t n e i d e r g n i e k i l - e r a c s I “ . s e g n a r e h t g n i d n a p x e n i t n e d

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n e e b e v a h , l i o n a c c o r o M e k i l , s l i o e r a c - r i a h y r u x u l , t e k r a m s s a m d e n r a w n n a m b e i L s ’ L S W t u B and their scalp much like they do with with do they like much scalp their and

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n i w o r g n e e b s a h t i . o t s u g h t i w g , y a s e l p o e p s e k a m t a h t e c n e i n d e n g i s e d e r a — e s a t s a r é K d n a e h t s d e e n t i , t n e m n o r i v n e s t i n i e r o m r o f t n u h e h t n o s i , e c n a t s

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n o i t a v o n n I . l a c i n h c e t y l h g i h s i r e v e w o H ” . n i a g a d n e p s o t e l p - l a c i n i l c s i l i O n o j O t a h t d n a r i a h , r e b m e t p e S n I d d a l l i w l e r a F d e t n a w e W “ . d i a s e h ” , e r a c n i k s

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12 12 WWD 7, JUNE FRIDAY, 2013 DID YOU KNOW THAT AS YOU AGE, YOUR HAIR CAN CHANGE? COMBAT 8 SIGNS OFAGING HAIR.

New Nexxus® Youth Renewal™ combats: • VOLUME LOSS • BREAKAGE • LESS SHINE • ROUGHNESS • DRYNESS • BRITTLENESS • UNRULINESS • LOSS OF COLOR VIBRANCY

RAISE YOUR STANDARD™ AT NEXXUS.COM/YOUTHRENEWAL © 2013 Unilever. All rights reserved. All rights reserved. Unilever. © 2013 14 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 SPECIAL REPORT: ADVANCED

HAIR CARE José Eber beauty Therapy Rx Moisture Boosting Tool: The $169 hair implement features “high- Designed to go beyond mere frequency ultrasonic vibrations” Crown Heights cleansing and conditioning, said to accelerate the deep-conditioning process. Much like the Clarisonic works for facial an explosion of new hair-care skin, the item, which entered Ulta last month, is offerings set out to provide targeted skin-care-like benefits. Here is a look designed to enhance the effects of topicals for hair. at the latest product introductions. By Belisa Silva

L’Occitane Aromachologie Repairing Collection: DHC Q10 Revitalizing Hair Care Shampoo and Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Root Resilience L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Volumetry: This The French beauty brand is borrowing from its Treatment: Launching in September, this Clinical Haircare: The New York-based range of professional products treats fine hair with cross-category research and development hub on cleansing-conditioning duo, $26 each, from the dermatologist is dipping into the hair-care a patented technology said to restore the fiber. The this line of botanical-rich aromatherapy-inspired Japanese skin-care brand uses ingredients such world with a collection featuring amino formulas, priced from $19 for a hair refresher to hair care, which launches in August. Featuring as ceramides for moisture retention and black acids, antioxidants and peptides, to promote $25.50 for a root spray, also address scalp health a complex of five essential oils and plant-based pearl proteins to nourish hair. “Healthy-looking scalp health and fuller-looking hair. The line, with oil-controlling salicylic acid. “Salicylic acid, amino acids, the collection, priced from $20 hair begins at the scalp, which can benefit from which includes a Strengthening Shampoo, a key ingredient found in skin-care technology is for a shampoo to $32 for a mask, is said to some of the same vitamins, antioxidants and $42, Nourishing Scalp Conditioner, $38, adapted into Volumetry to gently and effectively, restructure the hair shaft. “We have always moisturizers found in skin-care products,” said and Anti-Aging Scalp Serum, $54, will be deeply cleanse the top epidermal layer,” said Paul been formulating according to the principles Miles Perdiguerra, marketing director of DHC fully distributed in July. “The scalp is skin Gambutti, manager for L’Oréal Professionnel technical of phytotherapy and aromatherapy for skin care USA. Antioxidants help fight the free-radical and responds well to effective skin-care testing and development. “Its oil soluble, anticlogging and hair care,” said Benedicte Le Bris, director damage that ages the complexion, and they can ingredients such as copper peptides and properties, leave the skin clear of oils, prevents the of research and development at L’Occitane. provide the same benefits for the scalp.” collagen,” said Gross. hair from re-greasing and provides lasting volume.”

Peter Coppola Keratin Concept Legacy Sally Hershberger Plump Up Collagen Volume: Ouidad Salon Series: The range, rolling out now, is Davines OI Essential Haircare: Described Collection: Launching alongside a professional The brand’s newest offerings, which launch this designed to treat the scalp and hair follicle with by the brand as “cosmetic treatments,” treatment, this line utilizes keratin protein, month, include this collagen-rich range, $8.99 ingredients like omega fatty acids, acai pulp oil and Davines will introduce this three- collagen and ceramides to help tackle signs to $12.99, meant to thicken and plump strands. linoleic acid. Products are priced from $36 to $58. stockkeeping-unit range of multipurpose of hair aging. Priced between $20 for a Featuring a proprietary protein complex alongside “Keeping the skin exfoliated helps to ensure that hair products, priced between $26 and shampoo and $40 for a hair mask, the 11- natural marine collagen, keratin, ginger root and skin-care products are more effective,” said Hillary $32, in July. Central to the formula in each piece range hits shelves this month. “Collagen pear extracts, each product can be layered for Solomon, president and chief executive officer. is a beta-carotene-rich roucou oil, said to and ceramides help skin look younger and buildable volume. “Sally always felt the skin “We realized that similar to skin care, we needed stimulate the production of melanin, reduce firmer, and we’ve included those ingredients care for hair was key,” Lynn Emmolo, ceo of to remove dead skin cells and product build-up [to] cell damage, help slow aging, maintain so hair will feel the same way,” said Coppola. Sally Hershberger Professional Hair Care. encourage healthy hair growth.” skin’s elasticity and neutralize free radicals.

Pureology Colour Living Proof Style Lab Phyto Phytokératine: Kérastase Lift Vertige: Ojon Rare Blend: Fanatic Multi-Tasking Satin Hair Serum: A These two treatment Part of the brand’s Using a regimen- Hair Beautifier: proprietary cuticle- items, due out in first styling line, building approach, Promising 21 smoothing technology September, feature inspired by skin- the brand is benefits, this vegan stars alongside polymers reparative botanical care textures and launching Rare “hair beautifier,” $24, and emollients to keratin and ceramides formulas, this root- Blend Infusion features ingredients control frizz and to help reconstruct hair’s lifting gel, $36, is Shampoo, $30, and like fennel seed regulate moisture levels. internal structure. The meant to impart Rare Blend Tamer, extract and olive and The formula, $29, mask, $39, utilizes two volume. “The base $24, in August. “We coconut oils and which launches this forms of hyaluronic acids formula is directly talk about cleanse, will be available in month, was inspired by to plump strands, and the inspired by eye tone, treat and September. Steven the long-term benefits serum, $35, contains silk contour creams moisturize for skin Henley, senior of skin-care products. peptides, pomegranate and serums,” said care. Now we used director of education “Satin Hair Serum extract, and a Brazilian Julien Bouzitat, a similar regimen- development at not only smooths palm oil complex to help vice president based approach of L’Oréal USA, said: hair without any oils prevent breakage. of marketing for cleanse, condition, “Colour Fanatic or silicones, but also Kérastase and prep, moisturize is a primer and a improves the condition Shu Uemura Art and style,” said MITRA multitasker. It’s like of the hair,” said Ron of Hair. “It is very Geoffrey Hawkins, a BB cream in that it McLaughlin, Living lightweight and vice president of primes, protects and Proof’s vice president of [designed to] melt Ojon research and ROBERT perfects hair.” product development. upon application.” development. PHOTOS BY WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 15 WWD.COM Lauren Fires Up His Engine With Polo Red these Polo fragrances. We’re constantly ecutives discuss advertising budgets. But By JULIE NAUGHTON and PETE BORN Lighting reaching a new audiences with each industry sources calculate that in order new launch. As the brand grows and con- to hit a $100 million retail sales target, RALPH LAUREN is in the driver’s seat tinues to reach different demographics, the company is probably budgeting $20 with his latest fragrance, Polo Red. this is going to be one of the keys to that. million to $30 million on advertising and A Memory Inspired by the designer’s legendary Yo u can see now, demographically and promotion on a global basis for the first luxury car collection and the resulting attitudinally, the broadness of the Polo full year the fragrance is on counter. adrenaline rush, this men’s scent — due brand reflected in these fragrances.” Advertising and promotion will in- in wide release in July after previewing The scent, concocted by Givaudan’s clude T V, print and digital featuring Nacho in Bloomingdale’s and Ralph Lauren Olivier Gillotin, has top notes of red Figueras and shot by Bruce Weber, who stores this month — is a departure from grapefruit, Italian cedrat and red cran- also produced ads for 2012’s Big Pony earlier Lauren fragrances, which harness berry; a heart of red saffron, lavandin women’s collection launch. The TV spots horsepower of an entirely different kind. and red sage, and a drydown of red ce- mimic a high-energy movie trailer, and the “With the launch of Polo Red, we are darwood, amber and coffee berry. stylized print ads are designed to resemble in the unique position of being able to Polo Red’s high-gloss opaque bottle is a blockbuster movie poster. TV ads will capitalize on the loyalty and following of rendered in candy-apple red, intended break Sept. 4, while print ads break first in the thriving 35-year-old Polo franchise, to mimic the curves of a luxury car. It is GQ in August, followed by a slew of ads in while simultaneously attracting an en- September men’s and lifestyle magazines. tirely different type of consumer with The TV spots will be cut in 30- and an exciting product that is unlike any 20-second versions, and a 75-second ver- fragrance we have created before,” said sion will live exclusively online. The Guillaume de Lesquen, president, world- film’s song, “Cut Me Some Slack,” was wide, of Ralph Lauren Fragrances. “Polo recorded by Sound City Players (featur- The Passion candle. Red is aimed at a new target audience ing Dave Grohl and Paul McCartney) and for the Ralph Lauren Fragrances portfo- “sets the tone for the Polo Red concept lio of brands, which includes the World of of speed, adrenaline and seduction,” said Polo, Romance and Big Pony franchises. André Branch, vice president of market- By BELISA SILVA We expect this to be a top-10 brand.” ing for Ralph Lauren Fragrances in the While Alexandre Choueiri, general U.S. “Digital will play a key role in the LEONARD LAUDER on Tuesday evening manager of international designer collec- Polo Red launch. The development of a reminisced about how a personal experi- tions at L’Oréal Luxe, believes the fragrance high-speed, thrill-seeking digital expe- ence can blossom into an act of charity. will have widespread appeal, its sweet spot rience will play in-store and add to our At an event held at Laura and is likely to be men between the ages of 25 strong animations. The experience will Harry Slatkin’s Upper East Side town- and 35. “We think confident young thrill also extend to mobile, online and social house, Lauder recalled, “Peonies were seekers will love this fragrance, as will platforms.” A video racing game has been Evelyn’s favorite flower, and they have many others of all ages,” he said. developed — one for in-store and a lon- a particular and distinctive smell and That targeting fits well with the design- ger version for home use online — to lure there are very few chances to use the er’s desire to create a distinctive point of young men into the fragrance franchise. peony fragrance.” Lauder, chairman difference for each Polo fragrance. David Lauren added, “This is not a pop emeritus of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., Lauren, executive vice president of ad- The ad for Polo Red. song; this is rocker. This is an adrena- noted that his late wife discovered the vertising, marketing and corporate com- finished by the traditional Lauren Polo line-charged song that is very young. It’s little-known pittosporum flower while munication for the Ralph Lauren Corp. logo and a matte black cap. trending on college radio already. When on holiday in the South of France nearly (and Ralph’s son), noted how the differ- Eaux de toilette in three sizes — 45 you hear the song, it’s edgy.” 25 years ago. ent incarnations of the 1978 Polo men’s ml. for $44, 75 ml. for $61 and 125 ml. for An immersive digital experience will “There was a bush with the flower fragrance took “their inspirations really $76 — will be sold, as will a 200-ml. de- play a key role in acquainting consumers on it, and she was so entranced with it. directly from the different attitudes that odorizing body spray for $20, a 150-ml. with the Polo Red lifestyle and creating She clipped off the flower, put it into we showcase in our clothing collections.” aftershave balm for $40 and a 75-ml. de- an emotional connection to the brand, a Ziploc bag and brought it back with Polo Blue had a sportier sensibility odorant for $18. said de Lesquen. “Many men’s fragrances us….[It became] the base fragrance of and came after Polo Sport. Polo Black In the U.S., the scent will be available are marketed around intangible, stand- the Estée Lauder Knowing fragrance.” was designed to have a European influ- in about 2,500 department and specialty alone concepts such as the promise of Laura Slatkin’s Nest Fragrances ence, he said, adding that the last mani- store doors. The scent is also expected seduction,” he said. “With Polo Red, plans to honor Evelyn Lauder and the festation, Big Pony, “has got a preppier to have significant distribution and rev- consumers will be able to actually expe- organization she founded, the Breast attitude.” The edgier, more energetic, enues globally. rience speed and adrenaline through a Cancer Research Foundation, with a race-inspired Polo Red is the youthful While executives declined comment heart-pumping digital application. The bright pink flower-scented candle. The gateway drawing a younger customer on projected sales, industry sources esti- millions of minutes per year that our Nest Passion candle, slated to launch into the Polo franchise of fragrances. mated that Polo Red could do as much as target consumers will spend playing the in October, features fragrance notes of “It will be a significant brand for us,” $100 million at retail globally in its first game will mean millions of minutes that both peony and pittosporum, inspired Lauren said. “Reaching the youth cus- year on counter. That is said to be equal will have been spent interacting with and directly by memories shared by the phil- tomer has always been important, and to the volume done by the designer’s Big fully immersed in our brand, and we ex- anthropic couple. we’ve had amazing success with each of Pony lineup. Neither would L’Oréal ex- pect this to be a powerful driver of sales.” The candle, $28, will be available at luxury specialty department stores and boutiques across the U.S. and Canada. Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Diane von Ten percent of the retail price and 20 New Face for ‘Little Black Dress’ Furstenberg and Stella McCartney. percent of the wholesale price will be PARIS — André Leon Talley’s “Little “Most of the dresses in the show have donated to the BCRF. Black Dress” exhibition will sashay into been selected by me because in my mem- “Passion, the driving force behind the French capital just in time for couture ory I have either seen clients wear them [the Lauder family’s] work, is the ap- week in July. or I was with the client when she selected propriate name for our fragrance The show, sponsored by MAC Cosmetics it. Or if it was more contemporary, it was candle that will benefit the Breast and featuring about 50 garments, is to a dress that I had seen in a fashion pre- Cancer Research Foundation,” said run from July 3 to Sept. 22 at the Mona The Joseph view,” said Talley. “A lot of the dresses are Laura Slatkin. “They say that behind Bismarck American Center for Art and Altuzarra dress contemporary, right up to 2012. every great man is a great woman, but Culture here. It debuted last fall at the that inspired “I am not trying to create a historical in Evelyn’s case, behind every woman Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) the makeup. perspective of the little black dress,” he con- there’s a great man. Together [they] and has spawned a book by the same name, tinued. “I wanted it to be very contemporary were unstoppable.” also by Talley, who recently was appointed and based on personal experiences.” Talley reminisced about a Chanel sum- Numéro Russia’s editor at large and is a Harry and Laura Slatkin mer ball gown that his late friend Sao contributing editor at American Vogue. with Leonard Lauder. “We love integration with an academic Schlumberger owned and then was pur- purpose at the same time that’s fashion, and chased by Patricia Altschul. we thought this was a wonderful opportuni- “So I had seen that dress go through ty to support important retrospective work two different turns,” he said. and [meanwhile incorporate] makeup,” said Mac took a cue Among Talley’s other favorites are a John Demsey, group president at the Estée from this Sophie Madame Grès dress and a Chanel coat- Lauder Cos. Inc., MAC’s parent. Theallet dress. dress, which had been owned by Gloria For the exhibit’s opening party on July von Thurn und Taxis. 1, MAC plans to showcase a series of face Demsey said the exhibition suits its em- charts with color cosmetics looks created by Gordon Espinet, ployees — who wear black each day — to a T. its senior vice president of makeup artistry, specifically to “People at MAC are well-versed in understanding the im- accompany the brand’s selection of little black dresses from portance of black in their wardrobes,” he said. “That was one the show, appearing in photographs. Among labels represent- of the other secret reasons why we love this.” ed are Proenza Schouler, Joseph Altuzarra, Ohne Titel and In more SCAD-related news, the college’s Lacoste, France- Prabal Gurung, whose makeup looks MAC conceives during based Pfriem Gallery will host another Talley-curated exhibit,

fashion week. called “Antonio Lopez and the World of Fashion.” It highlights CHINSEE “This is our interpretation of the MAC look for their black 30 years of the fashion illustrator’s work, which appeared in dress,” explained Espinet. titles such as Women’s Wear Daily, Vogue and Interview. The GEORGE

For an Altuzarra piece, he conceived “a little bit like a neo- show will be open to the public from July 4 to Aug. 24 (with the BY punk look. It’s very focused on a graphic line on the eye.” vernissage scheduled for July 3 and 4). It formerly ran at SCAD — JENNIFER WEIL The exhibit will also include creations from the likes of in Savannah, ending May 5. PHOTOS 16 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013

Bespoke beauty Colour items. A Hot Boy Band’s New Direction

sphere that looks like a cut jewel, topped with a sil- By JULIA NEEL ver crown that houses a pink mesh flower. “I hope it’s not one of those things they throw LONDON — The super hot British-Irish boy band on stage, because those are going to hurt,” mused Butter London Gets Colorful One Direction unveiled its debut women’s fragrance Payne. “Someone threw a box at me once and it hit in London Thursday at the top of The Gherkin, one me [on the arm], and I was thinking, ‘What if that By BELISA SILVA the city’s most famous buildings. Called Our Moment, just hit me in the face?’” the scent is named after “Moments,” a song that ap- The license for the scent is owned by Eden Parfums, NAIL-CARE BRAND Butter London is looking to take its peared on the group’s first album, “Up All Night.” which is a subsidiary of Imperial Pharmaceutical cheeky Great Britain-inspired product names and bold col- The scent has been over a year in the making, Group and owned by chief executive officer Nayan ors from hand to face with a new range of color cosmetics. and was in collaboration with fragrance company Thakrar. Eden purchased the license from Olivann Launching in August, the collection, called Butter London Firmenich. The juice has fruity top notes of pink Beauty, a division of Fusion Brand Inc.’s luxury fashion Bespoke Colour Cosmetics, will begin its rollout in all Ulta grapefruit, wild berries and red currants. At its division, in February this year, along with all the assets stores, expanding into Henri Bendel in September. By the end heart are floral notes of jasmine, freesia and fran- that had been developed before the sale. of 2013, the range is expected in 900 global doors. “Women gipani, and the base is formed from creamy musk, Our Moment will be distributed in the U.K. by have embraced wearing crazy colors on their nails,” said sheer woods and white patchouli. SAS & Co. Ltd. and will be launched exclusively at Leslie Freytag, president and chief executive officer of the The band’s members, Louis Tomlinson, Niall Harrods on Aug. 25, followed by a further U.K.-wide company. “The next trend is moving that color onto the face.” Horan, Liam Payne, Zayn Malik and Harry Styles, rollout from Sept. 9. It is distributed in the U.S. by The range, initially comprised of 40 stockkeeping units, are midway through their “Take Me Home” tour, and Elizabeth Arden, and while final details of the global includes a vivid variety of colorful mascaras, eye pencils are just about to begin the U.S. leg of the tour. rollout are still being decided, the licensee hopes to and cream eye shadows, bright cream blushes, buildable “It’s not too strong and it’s quite sweet and sub- launch in the U.S. on Aug. 25, too. tinted lip balms and nail lacquers, naturally. “The nail cat- tle, rather than it being a bit more in your face,” The scent is available in three eau de parfum egory, as hot as it is, represents only one percent of the pres- sprays. A 30-ml. bottle will be available only tige makeup business,” said Freytag, adding that all Butter The Our Moment scent. in the U.K. for 21 pounds (about $31.80 at London color products will retail for $20 and below and will current exchange); a 50-ml. size will sell for feature the tag line “Rock Your Colour.” “There was a huge 29 pounds, or $49.50, and a 100-ml. version opportunity for us to take our passion and experience with will sell for 39 pounds, or $59.50. Ancillary color and fashion and bring that to market in makeup.” products include a shower gel and body Butter London launched in 2006 with 45 nail lacquers, lotion, and a 10-ml. rollerball will be avail- which Freytag said quickly became cult favorites thanks to able in the U.S. Gift sets will be available for high pigment payoff and the omission of carcinogens. the holidays. “With everything we do, we are careful about ingredi- Eden declined to comment on first-year sales ents, and also positioning the brand around fashion,” said projections, but industry sources said they Freytag. “We think of ourselves as Kate and Pippa.” expect it to make $120 million in first-year In spring 2012, the brand dipped its toes into color with retail sales in an estimated 10,000 doors. the launch of Lippy Liquid Lipstick, a hybrid lipstick/lip The fragrance will be supported gloss. “Customers gave us permission to go beyond nail. We by a television and online campaign saw there was an opportunity to expand,” said Freytag, add- directed by Vaughan Arnell, who ing that the move into color cosmetics is one aimed at bol- is best known for the music videos stering her quickly growing business. he has made for the likes of Robbie “In 2010, we entered Nordstrom and Ulta doors, and the Williams, George Michael, Jamiroquai brand took off,” said Freytag, explaining that since its retail and One Direction, among others. A expansion the brand’s compounded annual growth rate is print campaign will feature the same roughly 90 percent. “We became the number-two brand in black-and-white images of the band mem- prestige nail in the U.S., right behind Chanel.” Payne told WWD of the scent. “Too strong is not bers that appear on the box. Although Butter London would not share financials on the what any of us are into.” Given that there were five Given the band’s legion of young and digitally new color range, industry insiders believe it could generate opinions involved in the creation of Our Journey, savvy fans, a digital marketing campaign will be cen- between $12 million and $15 million in its first year at retail. the band insists it was a dispute-free project. “We tral to the scent’s promotion strategy. “Digital chan- “We believe the collection will appeal to new customers kind of just agreed on it,” said Tomlinson. “We’re nels are hugely important; the boys have huge num- as well as loyal Butter London fans who appreciate the bold all, like, into the same sort of thing. It was actually bers of followers through their own Facebook and and playful look of the brand,” said Janet Taake, senior vice easy in that respect. The people we were working Twitter feeds, so we’ll be using One Direction’s digital president of Ulta. with were a great help. They were, like, making media to heavily promote the fragrance,” said Faye Marketing for the line will be centered on both digital and really good stuff, and we were, like, ‘That’s great!’ Langworthy, fragrance license manager for Modest, in-store initiatives. A prelaunch influencer sampling program They gave us what we wanted.” the company that manages the One Direction brand. will target brand fans and top customers, and an interactive As for which scents the band wears, for Louis This project actually came about because a fan social media/digital campaign will launch through all chan- it’s Gucci Guilty, for Zayn it’s Dolce & Gabbana began a campaign on Twitter and opened a peti- nels. Additionally, Katie Hughes, the brand global color am- Light Blue, and Liam wears “something from Hugo tion to get the band to launch a fragrance. “We knew bassador, will visit select Ulta and Nordstrom doors offering Boss.” When they were younger, however, they all about the campaign, and we thought, ‘Why not do it “rockovers” and providing tips on how to use the multifunc- admitted to wearing Lynx (“Lynx Chocolate was the properly and put our names to it?’” said Payne. tional formulas, meant to be applied with fingers. best,” said Payne) and dabbling in their fathers’ af- There are more fragrances planned for One “The shades you’ll see in this collection are true to the tershave. “When you were a kid, though, didn’t you Direction, but the band could feasibly venture into fash- brand in that they’re vibrant, unexpected and on trend, while rob your dad’s?” asked Tomlinson. “I was big into ion. What about a line of men’s clothes? “That would be our formulas are versatile, buildable, long-lasting and, of robbing my dad’s. Always rob your dad’s! That’s the cool! That would be quite sick!” enthused Tomlinson. course, free of parabens and phthalates,” said Hughes. message I’m saying: Always steal your dad’s.” “Something quite small. Or T-shirts; something quite There will be a billboard in Times Square during MITRA ROBERT The outer packaging is a pale pink and features discreet, though. Or jeans, a skinny fit in black, they’d September’s New York Fashion Week, where the collection

the faces of band. The bottle is a faceted glass sell.” “That’s all you wear,” quipped Payne. will also be utilized backstage. PHOTO BY

nership with Revlon just yet, each collection Revlon Hooks Up With Marchesa will truly embody our BEGINNING WITH an intricately em- unique and make women look beautiful.” brand’s feminine and bossed 3-D nail strip, Revlon is launch- Over the next 18 months, two more rang- dramatic spirit.” ing a series of Marchesa-inspired beauty es will launch, including one with a philan- According to Goldin, items, including nail polish, lip and eye thropic component, according to Goldin. the partnership is products, nail art and beauty tools. “This partnership has tremendous aimed at making high- “I feel that sitting at the cross section amount of congruence and synergy and end runway fashion ac- of fashion and beauty is very much a place therefore it could go anywhere,” she said. cessible to all women. where Revlon has always been,” said Julia In addition, Revlon has also signed on “As a mass brand our Goldin, chief marketing officer of Revlon. to be the official makeup and nail part- strategy is [offering] glam- “This is a part of the DNA of the brand and ner for Marchesa’s New York Fashion our at affordable prices,” said Goldin, something we will continue to do.” Week shows, with Revlon global artistic adding that there will be coordinating in- The first in a series of three collec- director Gucci Westman — who worked store visuals and marketing activities to tions, Revlon by Marchesa 3D Jewel backstage at Marchesa’s fall 2013 and promote the collections. “Democratizing Appliqués features eight patterns of nail spring 2014 bridal shows — as the lead glamour and magic is a very important decoration that nod to couture Marchesa makeup artist part of what Revlon can do.” gowns. The collection will first hit the “Fashion and beauty are about self- Georgina Chapman, cofounder and U.K. in September, U.S. and Canada in expression and experimentation and designer of Marchesa, echoed the senti- October and then other markets globally taking a creative approach to your per- ment; “Through Revlon’s incredible global thereafter. “Marchesa’s designs are all sonal style,” said Keren Craig, cofounder The Marchesa gown reach, we will be able to bring a little piece about the essence of all glamour,” said of Marchesa. “While we can’t reveal all and nail wraps it inspired. of Marchesa to women around the world.” Goldin. “They are exciting, intricate, the details of our multicollection part- — B.S. WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 17 WWD.COM Holt Renfrew’s New Beauty Hall

isn’t drop-dead serious. While The design of the new hall By SHARON EDELSON its well-heeled customer wants is open and airy with room for all the creature comforts, ser- growth in case Holt wants to HOLT RENFREW’S beauty hall vice and luxury the chain is add other brands or more treat- makeover proves it’s serious known for, she also wants to ment rooms. “ Yo u don’t feel about beauty. have fun, so there’s a camera like you’re in an empty hall,” For starters, the Canadian wall for photo ops that can be Peterson said. “We source the retailer has doubled the size of sent to those in her social net- world for new and innovative the beauty area of its Yorkdale work to show off her new look. products. We have some space Shopping Center store to 10,000 Holt plans to roll out the con- we can maneuver.” square feet and added a slew of cept to other stores. “Yorkdale Nothing comes between con- new concepts, four new treat- is the prototype for how all our sumers and products in the new ment rooms and shops-in-shop stores will be made over,” said beauty hall. “ Yo u no longer stand RENFREW OF HOLT ADAM MOCO/COURTESY for brands such as Chanel, Peterson. “We see all of our in front of the counter,” Peterson

Hermès and Aesop. The hall beauty halls converting. We will said. “ Yo u play. By removing PHOTO BY was unveiled Thursday. expand in the next two years. Yo u many counters we believe we’ve “Bigger is better,” said will see growth in beauty.” removed the barriers. We want The La Mer skin-care section. Wayne Peterson, divisional vice Another new feature is the you to meander, to touch. Yo u can president of cosmetics at Holt Primp and Polish Bar behind choose a consultant from brand The Yorkdale Shopping Center, Mercier and Estée Lauder, Renfrew. “We’ve done things that a glass scrim, where customers to brand. We like to dedicate a north of downtown Toronto, is among other brands. give this a point of difference.” can get blowouts, manicures, fa- specialist to the brands because ranked second in Canada in terms Treatment rooms are dedi- Peterson said Holt has ele- cial waxing, lash extensions and there’s so many stockkeeping of sales per square foot, at 1,100 cated to La Mer, Sisley, La vated its services with a Beauty brow services. units in these lines. We’re not Canadian dollars, or $1,062 at Prairie and the Skin Lab, which Bar that provides color cosmet- “We call the Primp and open sell by any means, but we current exchange. features Darphin, AmorePacific, ics, skin-care consultations and Polish Bar accessible-pri- want to be accessible.” Besides Hermès, Aesop and Erno Laszlo and ReVive. makeovers. There is compli- vate,” Peterson said. “It’s on Peterson declined to discuss the 660-square-foot Chanel Holt Renfrew is completely mentary makeup brush clean- the floor but not in a room sales volume, but said, “We shop, other in-store shops in- renovating its Yorkdale store, ing, and specialists will peer with a closed door. Yo u see have very strong performance clude La Mer, La Prairie, Sisley, with beauty the first area com- into makeup bags and offer ad- something’s happening there. targets. We will aggressively Jo Malone, Bobbi Brown and pleted. “In the fall, we’ll unveil vice to consumers. It’s animation, which is what grow in this new format and Kiehl’s. Holt also carries Clé de everything at once,” Peterson But Holt knows that beauty beauty does so well.” focus on performance.” Peau Beauté, Dior, Nars, Laura said. “Lights, camera, action.” OBITUARY

James Daugherty Li & Fung Wins James Daugherty, 85 in 1988. A MEMORIAL SERVICE for fashion de- terview with Head, and he went to work signer James Daugherty will be held at for her. After leaving Highlight, he told Legal Dispute 6 p.m. on June 19 at Calvary-St. George’s The Daily News in 1976, he would ar- Episcopal Church in Manhattan. range interviews on the phone. However, Daugherty, 85, one of the first African- “when prospective employers saw me, By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD American designers to have his own their faces would drop and they’d utter collection on Seventh Avenue, died of some silly excuse why I wasn’t quali- LI & FUNG LTD. has scored a six-figure a heart attack in New York on May 12. fied,” he said. “I was determined not to judgment against Contemporary Streetwear In the Seventies, Daugherty was con- let my color be my downfall.” LLC, a New York-based apparel supplier, sidered a peer of African-American which failed to pay the sourcing giant for pioneers Scott Barrie and Stephen A Daugherty orders it made for the company from 2009 Burrows. In 1974, Daugherty launched matte jersey to 2011. his self-named business after working dress and On Thursday, New York Southern as a sketch artist for celebrated costume jacket from District Magistrate Judge Debra Freeman designer Edith Head, then sketching for 1976. awarded the Hong Kong-based firm $1.7 mil- director Vincente Minnelli, Bill Blass, lion in compensatory damages. This does Anne Klein and Liz Claiborne; working not include a pre-judgment interest rate of as a design assistant for Pat Sandler of 9 percent a year that will be calculated by Highlight, and as a designer for Jerry the court. Silverman. While at Silverman, he cre- and a slim, synthetic suede street dress. In the lawsuit, which was filed in New ated an embroidery-detailed, Empire- In November of that year, Daugherty York federal court in 2011, Li & Fung waisted yellow satin dress with a big was named Designer of the Year by the claimed that Contemporary Streetwear “re- inverted pleat for Lynda Johnson Robb, Fashion Sales Guild. Head ordered fused to pay” three years of invoices and one of President Lyndon Johnson’s two extensively from his collection for her that it “indicated no intent to pay” the in- daughters. Estée Lauder was also a cli- own wardrobe. He was known as a dress voices that were “outstanding but have not ent. By 1976, his own firm, backed by designer, but his other collections from yet become due.” Seventh Avenue stalwart Ben Shaw, had that decade also included unstructured Initially, Li & Fung was looking for $5.1 500 accounts nationwide. Daugherty’s tops over swirling skirts; liquid jump- million in damages, but it also cited in its designs were featured in Vogue, suits, and long, fluid tunics over pants. complaint a host of unpaid orders that it de- Harper’s Bazaar and Ebony magazines. Daugherty’s company filed for bank- livered from October 2010 to February 2011, He had come a long way. ruptcy in 1979, and he became the de- which amounted to $1.7 million. Daugherty was born in Los Angeles, signer for Rona. He remained in the In the complaint, Li & Fung referenced the son of James Sr. and Pollyanna dress business, designing the Maggy a deal meant to “induce” it to remain Daugherty, who were, respectively, a Boutique Division of Maggy London Contemporary Streetwear’s primary buy- maintenance man and a maid. “They from 1984 until 1987, when he became a ing agent. According to court papers, the did not have much money, but the designer for the moderate dress compa- contract stipulated that Contemporary ladies my grandmother worked for ny R&K. “We really went after a younger Streetwear would “assume the obligations” handed down all of their clothes,” look, which is what women want today,” of its licensee Icer Brands, also known Daugherty’s daughter, Denise Orso, he said at the time. “Sleeve treatments as Cavi Juniors, if Li & Fung dropped its said. “My grandmother altered them have become much more important.” claims against Icer. After releasing the and was always very stylish. That is From 2003 until his death, legal claims, Contemporary Streetwear probably where my father got his inspi- Orso called her father “a kind, soft- Daugherty was an adjunct instructor in said it would pay $48,000 for sample ration to work in fashion design.” spoken man who loved people and en- the Fashion Design Art department at charges, take possession of Icer’s inven- From an early age, in fact, he was joyed life,” and added, “I never heard the Fashion Institute of Technology. As tory worth “at least $94,307.50” and sell it fascinated by his mother’s off-duty style, him raise his voice.” He was vibrant and Orso put it, “He was simply someone in order to pay the Hong Kong firm, but ac- and he sketched her wearing the pieces fit, looking much younger than he was. who didn’t want to retire.” cording to the lawsuit, the defendant never — crepe dresses, veiled hats, even fox- In October 1974, Daugherty showed Daugherty married Ursula Lewis in sent Li & Fung any of the proceeds related fur chubbies — she had been given. She his first collection, for resort, and told California in 1950. But even after they to the sale of the inventory. brought him to meet the costume de- WWD, “I still believe a woman likes divorced, and he left for New York, These figures were folded into signer Irene when he was 10. Daugherty to show her figure, and that’s the rea- Orso said, “He kept in constant contact. Thursday’s $1.7 million award, according to attended the Chouinard Art Institute, son I like the wrap.” In August 1976, He didn’t miss one special occasion — court papers. which later became part of CalArts, then Daugherty had his first trunk show at not a birthday, not my Sweet Sixteen, Freeman’s monetary award follows went to work as a janitor at the Writers Lou Lattimore in Dallas and noted, debutante ball nor the birth of my chil- last year’s order for summary judg- Building at Warner Bros. Studios. He “The ladies seem to like my clothes. dren. He was a good father, and he was ment by New York District Court Judge was soon noticed for his outstanding What they want is something not com- always there for me.” He also designed Colleen McMahon, who presided over the cleaning skills. But he had an entirely plicated, and that’s what my clothes are her debutante and wedding dresses. case. In her judgment, McMahon cited different profession in mind, and he left — nothing strange about them. They’re Daugherty is survived by Orso, Contemporary Streetwear’s refusal to coop- sketches of designs meant for the stars quiet clothes, not garish.” The collec- three grandchildren and six erate during the discovery phase of the liti- on executives’ desks. This gambit didn’t tion included such looks as a halter- great-grandchildren. gation. She then sent the case to Freeman to pay off, but a friend got Daugherty an in- back cocktail dress with a fringed shawl — LORNA KOSKI mull over damages. 18 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013

Life magazine documenting segregation in the south, was Swizz Beatz and Parks Crew presented to Joanne Thornton Carmelo Anthony Wilson, the subject of the “I HAVE NO IDEA why I’m do. But I’ll go along with it.” image. In it, Wilson stands with being honored,” Peter Beard Fellow honoree Swizz Beatz, her niece in front of a store admitted, without a whiff of self- in an amalgam of Gucci, Saint entrance, which has marked a deprecation, on Tuesday night. Laurent and Dior, was equally separate entrance for blacks. The photographer was among humble. “It’s an honor to be “Gordon was from the North so a diverse clique of creatives honored,” the producer said in I had to tell him all the things (fellow honorees included the hotel’s terrace room during we could do and the things we Swizz Beatz, Donna cocktail hour. “I could not do,” Wilson told the Karan and Carrie want the younger room. “I felt his pictures would FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Mae Weems) being culture to know who show the nation what it was like acknowledged for WWD.com/eye. Gordon Parks was. and would start to ring a change their contribution So me being here is for us. I’m so proud of his work.” to the arts at the hopefully starting Another standout auction Gordon Parks that conversation, item was a ticket to the Chanel Foundation’s gala at The Plaza getting them to Google him and spring 2014 show, no doubt hotel in New York. “Honoring a do their homework.” donated by Karl Lagerfeld, a photographer blows my mind,” Olivier Theyskens and date cochair for the evening. The Beard continued, with genuine Constance Jablonski whispered designer was a no-show for bemusement. “I’m being in French to one another and the event much to the chagrin honored for doing what I like to snickered by the elevators. A of waiting paparazzi outside. towering Carmelo Anthony got (“Is he in there? No? Are an aerial view of the crowd. you sure? What about Sofia Nearby Kick Kennedy told Vergara?” they asked those friends what was next on her popping out for a quick smoke acting docket. “I’m working between courses.) Sofia Donna Karan on a play,” she demured, After words from Theodore Vergara in and Calvin Klein though she was not divulging Stebbins, who introduced Michael any further details. Sofia Beard, and Tommy Hilfiger, who Kors. Vergara frantically darted introduced Swizz Beatz, Calvin around the room. “I’m looking Klein took the dais to present for my boyfriend. I can’t find Karan her award. “First, I him,” she stammered. A late- have to make an admission,” arriving Karlie Kloss swept in Klein prefaced. “When it just as guests were taking to comes to Donna Karan, I’m their dinner seats. terribly biased. I think she’s so The evening opened with fabulous and deserves every an auction of select Parks award and accolade that she’s photographs. Before it was ever received.” Karan took to Max Snow the stage moments later. “He’s sold off (to the tune of a cool STEVE EICHNER and Vanessa $16,000) “Department Store, a real piece of work, isn’t he?” Traina Snow Mobile Alabama, 1956,” a print she cracked. — TAYLOR HARRIS from Parks’ photo essay for PHOTOS BY

Alexis Bledel and Home Sweet Home Saoirse Ronan in “Violet & Daisy.” eye SOFIA COPPOLA’S new film “The the irony. “We talk about how Bling Ring” is the fictionalized this movie is about obsession tale of a group of Los Angeles and then we try on beautiful teenagers who robbed celebrity gowns for the red carpet. It’s homes for designer duds. While ironic, but you have to find the real-life victim Paris Hilton balance of this crazy world,” doesn’t technically appear she said. “This is so foreign LLC/CINEDIGM in the film, the production for me. I’m a simple girl. I like shot scenes inside her home, jeans and a T-shirt, but this which acted as a clubhouse is fun. It’s becoming a part of

NEPENTHES for the teenage bandits, who me now. I love acting and it’s

MV scheduled their spree around a part of the life. I wouldn’t OF red carpets. So, naturally the say it’s a con or a pro, but I’m socialite could have been getting used to it. Who doesn’t forgiven some nerves on like to put on a pretty dress?” Pulpy Pairing COURTESY Tuesday night as she stepped Following a whirlwind trip

PHOTO away from home for the film’s to the Cannes Film Festival in highly publicized Los Angeles France, Coppola was happy to VIOLET AND DAISY, the title same work],” he said. “When characters show a different premiere and after party. be Stateside: “It’s great to be characters in screenwriter there’s a ripple effect and side of themselves by the end “I have the most advanced back in L.A., where we made Geoffrey Fletcher’s these ideas trigger more ideas of the movie. security system now,” an the movie. It feels full circle directorial debut, play and seem to be compatible “I’m interested in how anxiety-free Hilton said and complete in that way.” patty-cake and pack heat. with larger ideas and human innocence fares when it between bites of a s’more at — LINDZI SCHARF Assassins for hire usually themes, they start to coagulate.” collides with hard reality,” he the after party at the Chateau don’t come in the form of An interesting choice of said. “The women begin their Marmont. “It has laser beams, barely postpubescent women, words — coagulate — for the journey fairly detached from so if anyone walks, it’ll trigger but Violet and Daisy suck screenwriter of a film where their deeds. Along the way, they the alarm. I have 24-hour care lollipops, eat oatmeal cookies much blood is spilled. find a degree of friendship, with cameras everywhere. It’s with milk, shrug off any sense “Violet & Daisy” opens love and redemption.” Fletcher like Fort Knox.” of conscience or remorse with the gun-toting teens attributes his ability to write Unlike the characters they and dream of having enough wearing nun’s habits and convincing female characters portrayed, the film’s stars cash to buy dresses from the shooting up a room to the to being left-handed and having sported loaned luxury labels new fashion line of their idol, strains of “Angel of the had a good relationship with his at the premiere held at the Barbie Sunday. Morning.” The film is a dark father. He also sees the need to Directors Guild of America. “Violet & Daisy,” which comedy and coming-of-age create strong women’s roles. Hosted by Louis Vuitton opens on Friday, sprung from movie that “follows the “There are few films where and Vanity Fair, the evening the imagination of Fletcher, journey of three wounded you have women really driving attracted stars Emma Watson, who won an Oscar in 2009 for souls,” Fletcher said, the plot,” he said. “Women Taissa Farmiga, Katie Chang, Claire his script for “Precious.” Ideas referring to Michael (James have a greater verbal capacity. Julien, Israel Broussard and Gavin come to him “in pieces over a Gandolfini), a terminal Plus, everything’s been done Rossdale, who were eager to period of time,” he said prior cancer patient who hires a in the boy area.” hype up their new flick. to a screening of “Violet & hit man to kill him, but winds The next film he writes, “It’s pretty ironic, huh?” Daisy” on Monday at the Core up with Violet (Alexis Bledel) however, will have a mostly asked newcomer Julien of her Club in New York. and Daisy (Saoirse Ronan). male cast: “Attica,” based on pricy Balmain dress. “I may at first think these The two take the job because the 1971 riot at the New York Farmiga, whose older sister pieces belong to separate it’s supposed to be simple, prison, will be directed by is actress Vera Farmiga, admitted Emma Watson in Chanel with ALEKS KOCEV/BFANYC.COM projects, but usually it occurs but it turns out to be anything Doug Liman. she’s still warming up to the Sofia Coppola in Louis Vuitton. — SHARON EDELSON to me [that they’re part of the but. Fletcher said the fashion world and also noted PHOTO BY WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 19 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Remembering Esther Williams SYNONYMOUS as her name was with enlistees. “In those days, the govern- swimming, Esther Williams used nearly ment used swimwear made of a fab- MAN ON THE MOVE: Look who’s joining Rushdie, who knows a thing or two every ounce of her athletic abilities to be- ric that Calvin Klein wouldn’t use for men’s fashion week in Paris: Haider about political persecution. come an MGM actress, a swimwear design- underwear,” Williams told WWD. “It Ackermann. The Antwerp, Belgium- “The girls are in the [penal] colony er and an opportunistic businesswoman. was a droopy cotton lisle in gray blue. based designer, who won acclaim and they don’t see any of it,” said one of The California native, three-time na- It looked like a limp dishrag, and you for a one-season foray into men’s the veiled members of Pussy Riot, of the tional champion and Swimming Hall of could see right through it. I told the wear in 2010, is to present what worldwide attention the case has cast on Fame member died Thursday at the age Secretary of the Navy, ‘It’s no wonder he’s calling a “men wardrobe” for Russia. “They are isolated and it’s very of 91. The outbreak of World War II can- half the young women leave before fin- spring 2014 on June 26. Details about hard for them now.” celed the 1940 Olympics, ishing the program.”’ the presentation format could not Introducing the film, Patti Smith dashing her plans to com- After seeing the new immediately be learned. gave a quietly impassioned address pete in the Summer Games. suit, the secretary respond- Ackermann unveiled his first men’s to the audience. “To take young girls, From the time she was ed by ordering 50,000 units. designs during a coed runway show at mothers and activists — girls with a child counting towels As one of the first female Pitti W in Florence, and the collection a revolutionary and pure heart — at the local pool to waive athletes-turned-celebrity, was immediately picked up by a and put them in prison for voicing the entrance fee, Williams Williams is credited with small group of international retailers, a prayer, a revolutionary prayer, was a worker. To help paving the way for athletes including Barneys New York. The is incomprehensible,” she said. cover her college tuition, to endorse products. Noting Colombian-born talent founded his “Remember, these girls are us.” Williams worked at I. how the business of en- label in 2001 and is known for sensual — DAVID LIPKE Magnin as a stock girl and dorsements has changed, draping and nomadic silhouettes. an in-store model. Scouted Williams recalled mention- — MILES SOCHA TIME OUT: Givenchy is sitting out in the department store, ing Coca-Cola during a 1983 couture for a second season. A she auditioned for Billy TV interview with Barbara LONDON ROBBERY: Selfridges’ London spokesman for the Paris house Rose’s “Aquacade” and Walters. The soft drink com- flagship was hit by a gang of smash- confirmed Riccardo Tisci has decided not wound up being partnered Esther Williams pany’s then-president called and-grab thieves at 8:30 p.m. Thursday to do a high-fashion collection for fall with Olympic swimmer in 1988. Williams to tell her a thank while the store was still open, and two given his frantic schedule this year. and “Tarzan” star Johnny you was en route. It turned arrests have been made, according to Tisci’s blizzard of projects in Weissmuller. Williams ended up being out to be a framed Coca-Cola ad from the police. The store said on its Twitter the first half of the year — beyond one of MGM’s breakout stars, splashing early Forties. The executive said the bikini- feed that no one was injured and that the usual glut of collections and through 26 movies including “Bathing clad model was copied from a photograph police are investigating the incident, pre-collections for women and men Beauty,” “Dangerous When Wet” and of Williams wearing a similar swimsuit. but they declined to provide further — have included cochairing the “Million Dollar Mermaid.” “Are we talking remuneration here?” details. “We just want to let you know annual Costume Institute benefit During a 1997 interview with WWD, Williams asked. that everyone is safe and the police are gala at the Metropolitan Museum Williams still had show business in her “Yes,” he said, “that’s what the pic- ARCHIVE investigating. We will update you once of Art; creating ballet costumes veins, occasionally stopping midsen- ture was.” we have more information,” the store for Ravel’s “Boléro” at the Opéra tence to break into song, apply lipstick Some of Williams’ other colorful rec- said. The Oxford Street store closes at 9 Garnier in Paris; designing stage or pet her schnauzer “Charlie.” ollections also had traces of chlorine. p.m. on Thursdays. looks for Rihanna and Beyoncé, plus a Williams worked on her film ward- Still doing meet-and-greets with shop- In late September, the watch bevy of red-carpet looks for awards robe with Frank Cole, father of swim- pers in her 70s, William said, “I like to concession at Selfridges in Manchester season through to the recent Cannes wear designer Anne Cole. For “Skirts tell the women who come to see me, ‘God STREIBER/FAIRCHILD was the target of masked thieves, who Film Festival. Oh, and an extra trip Ahoy,” Cole and Williams developed a takes care of you from 14 to 22. After ART stole 500,000 pounds, or $810,000, worth to New York to receive the CFDA’s crossback swimsuit that replaced the that, report to me — especially if you’ve BY of luxury watches in 80 seconds. International Award. Navy’s regulation swimwear for female had a baby.”’ — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG PHOTO — SAMANTHA CONTI However, the Givenchy spokesman stressed the house would continue its RIOT GIRLS: Clad in their trademark couture activity and that it continues to jumpers, tights and Fruit Loop- enlarge its atelier. Paris couture week is colored balaclavas, two members of scheduled for July 1 to 4. Pussy Riot were the surprise guests Somehow, amidst all that workload, at the Cinema Society screening on Tisci also found time for a series of new Wednesday in New York of HBO’s new Givenchy watches for men and women, documentary on the Russian punk- each named after a prime number rock provocateurs. Speaking through (Tisci’s lucky number is 17, by the way). a translator, the duo talked about Givenchy’s previous watch collection their efforts to free two imprisoned was discontinued in 2009. comrades, Masha Alyokhina and Nadya The new timepiece features small space Tolokonnikova, who are currently serving stainless steel and sapphire glass two-year prison terms for their acts housing a Swiss-made quartz of political defiance. How they ended movement. Gold-plated details up behind bars — a Pussy Riot posse juxtapose interchangeable nylon or stormed the altar of Moscow’s Christ leather straps with raw edges, while the Savior cathedral in February luminescent indexes provide a vintage 2012 to perform an original ditty feel to an otherwise graphic design. called “Punk Prayer: Mother of God, The line is unisex. Chase Putin Away” — and their The collection is exclusively transformation into an international available through Colette in Paris, cause célèbre is the focus of the film, Barneys New York in New York and which airs Monday. Beverly Hills, 10 Corso Como in Milan, On hand at the Landmark Boon the Shop in Seoul, Selfridges Sunshine Theater — and the after in London and select Givenchy party at Pravda, natch — were Stacey stores, before hitting a wider range of Bendet Eisner, Nanette Lepore, Charlotte selected boutiques in September. The Ronson, Heidi Mount, Amy Sacco, Kelly timepieces are available in six color Bensimon, Kathy Najimy, Drew Nieporent, combinations and will retail between Timothy Greenfield-Sanders, Carlos Leon, 590 euros and 690 euros, or $770 and Big Sarah Sophie Flicker, John Cameron $890 at current exchange. Mitchell, Amber Tamblyn and Salman — M.S. AND PAULINA SZMYDKE Business

WWD Marketplace is the premier destination for the industry’s classified and career listings. 800.423.3314 wwd.com/marketplace Watches from the Seventeen collection by Givenchy.

20 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013 WWD.COM

steps to show that it is seriously address- ·· ing the labor and safety issues in the gar- Retailers, Brands on Hot Seat in Senate ment industry, in order to retain its GSP benefits, which are in jeopardy and cur- {Continued from page one} testified on behalf of the Wal-Mart/Gap-led have to have a global standard so that we rently under review. They said the gov- IndustriALL Global Union-led Accord on alliance and is U.S. practice cochair for don’t have a race to the bottom. I think ernment has taken positive steps, such as Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, international employment law at the law Rana Plaza shows the limits of individual agreeing to allow workers to form unions citing concerns over legal liabilities. The firm Littler Mendelson. “The IndustriALL corporate responsibility campaigns.” without factory owner approval and con- alliance is formulating its own safety plan, accord should not be viewed as the sole Menendez said the AFL-CIO’s petition vening a commission to look at raising which it said it hopes to unveil next month. response and solution to the situation in seeking to revoke Bangladesh’s trade pref- the minimum wage, which stands at $37 a Forty-three retailers and brands have Bangladesh. U.S. and Canadian companies erences under the U.S. Generalized System month for garment workers, and commit- signed the IndustriALL-led accord, but only have come together in alliance to develop of Preferences has languished for six years, ting to hiring more labor inspectors, up three of them are from the U.S. — PVH Corp., a single, unified action plan that they be- “giving us an example of how everybody turns to 800 in the short term. Abercrombie & Fitch Co. and Sean John. lieve will achieve immediate and sustain- a blind eye until something happens, and I “We believe three key reforms are can assure you something is going to hap- particularly important to improve work- pen,” he warned, unless the industry “gets its ers’ lives in the near term — guarantee- What confidence can you give me that act together and establishes a standard.” ing workers’ rights to organize, guaran- Celeste Drake, trade policy special- teeing fire safety, and ensuring structural ist at the AFL-CIO, said labor groups are soundness of factories and other facili- there are serious efforts under way by American concerned that the North American alli- ties,” said Robert Blake, assistant secre- ance plan will be voluntary, with no legally tary of state for South and Central Asian retailers to help improve labor conditions? binding components. They are also con- Affairs at the State Department. cerned about having two separate accords. Lewis Karesh, assistant U.S. Trade — SEN. ROBERT MENENDEZ (D., N.J.) “What we are really afraid of is that this Representative for labor, said adminis- new alternative plan with the Bipartisan tration officials have outlined specific “While the U.S. retail and apparel in- able long-lasting change for the garment Policy Center sounds good, but if it ends concerns to the Bangladeshi government dustry shares IndustriALL’s goal of improv- industry in Bangladesh.” up being more corporate-directed social as part of the GSP review, including ac- ing worker safety to make more tangible Menendez pushed back and said, “At responsibility, but not giving workers the tions they should take to allow greater progress on the ground, U.S. companies the end of the day, I get concerned when power to speak up for themselves and be freedom of association, enabling work- have raised several concerns regarding the I hear about the industry’s unwilling- monitors of their own health and safety, it ers to form and operate unions, and al- accord, including the vague and ambigu- ness to join a more global standard. simply is not going to work,” Drake said. lowing nongovernmental organizations ous terms which potentially hold unlimit- Regardless of whether it is Bangladesh The administration officials said the to assist them in ensuring they have safe ed legal liabilities,” said Johan Lubbe, who today or some other place·· tomorrow, we Bangladesh government must take strong factories in which to work. J. Crew’s Opening Plans Paule Ka Expands to N.Y. {Continued from page one} J. Crew saw continued strength to $380.2 million, and direct market- in the direct business, which was a By LISA LOCKWOOD ing revenues grew 22.8 percent, to highlight of the quarter. Up against $176.2 million. Comparable sales, a historic high of a 19 percent in- NEW YORK — “My dream was to have a shop including direct revenues and those crease in the 2012 first quarter, the in New York. Now I’m ready to do it,” said for stores open at least a year, were company was able to grow direct by Serge Cajfinger, president and artistic direc- up 5.5 percent. 23 percent. Results reflected solid tor of Paule Ka, the French ready-to-wear firm. Gross margin declined to 44.7 per- performance in the core J. Crew In 2011, London-based private equity cent of sales from 47.6 percent in the brand and the new factory.jcrew.com firm Change Capital Partners bought a 70 2012 quarter as the cost of goods sold e-commerce site. Overseas, J. Crew percent stake in Paule Ka to accelerate the rose 18.4 percent to $312.1 million. will launch e-commerce with the brand’s international expansion. Today, The bottom line was affected less by help of a company called 51. “We’ll the company is established in 56 countries an 8.7 percent increase in selling, gen- ship to over 100 countries through and distributed through more than 475 eral and administrative expenses, to 51,” said Haselden. “That will allow points of sale. There are 58 freestanding $178.4 million. Higher markdowns led us to quickly ramp up and gain ac- Paule Ka stores globally, 13 of which are to a $15.9 million decline in the mer- cess to a big number of countries. In owned directly by the firm. chandise margin while buying and oc- markets where we have stores, we’ll The U.S. market has been on the de- cupancy costs were up $8 million. set up localized Web sites.” signer’s bucket list for many years. The Libby Wadle, president of the J. Capital expenditures totaled $11.3 26-year-old company is getting its feet Crew brand, said the promotional million in the first quarter, compared wet this summer with a 560-square-foot pitch of the first quarter took a toll on with $13.1 million in last year’s same pop-up shop that opened on Jobs Lane gross margins. “It was a tough mac- period. Spending for fiscal year 2013 is in Southampton on Memorial Day week- roeconomic environment out there,” planned at about $135 million to $145 end. It will also open its first New York she said during the call with analysts. million, with $55 million to $60 million showroom at 595 Madison Avenue, a “With the J. Crew [brand], we had a for new stores across retail, factory 4,000-square-foot space on the eighth floor, Angela Lindvall is featured very tough full-price comparison [over and Madewell formats; $40 million to this week. “I never had a New York office,” in the fall ad campaign, last year’s quarter]. We had to change $45 million for information technology said Cajfinger, on a visit to New York last shot by Venetia Scott. how we planned to do business. It was upgrades, and the rest for warehouse week. The company normally sets up sales about navigating through the environ- and corporate office expansion, store appointments at the Bryant Park Hotel. up to 500 sku’s. The designer collection is ment in the healthiest way we could.” renovations and general purposes. Its U.S. distribution includes Mitchell’s, often housed near such lines as Valentino Wadle said there was “frankly, Including its Madewell and Richard’s, Tootsie’s, Fivestory, neiman- Red, Michael Kors, Bruno Cucinelli and a lot of competition on some of our Crewcuts nameplates, J. Crew op- marcus.com, saks.com and halsbrook.com. Burberry. “We’re a feminine collection with franchise items — at lower prices. erated 302 full-price stores, 107 “Now we have a permanent home,” said a modern twist. We put together the whole We feel good about our fashion and factory outlets and three clearance Susan Kelly, vice president, who oversees look, which is very appealing. Yo u feel good newness. We remain focused on in- centers at the end of the quarter, up the U.S. business. in the clothes,” said Kelly. novating and inventing new fran- from 276 stores, 96 outlets and three Cajfinger also found a location to open Fifty percent of Paule Ka’s volume is gen- chises and looking ahead.” clearance centers a year ago. his first New York boutique on Madison erated in France, and 28 percent by other Avenue, between 63rd and 64th Streets. European countries. The rest of the volume “We’re in the process of signing everything is generated in regions including the Middle New York Jets owner Woody this week,” said the designer. The shop will East, Asia and the U.S. Paule Ka launched e- MEMO PAD Johnson’s wife Suzanne, who is the be 1,000 square feet and is expected to open commerce in France a year ago, but there’s no league’s brand ambassador for in November featuring the new holiday col- date yet to bring e-commerce to the U.S. women’s apparel, was also on set in lection. Eventually, Paule Ka would like to Paule Ka will unveil an ad campaign for DESIGNERS WIN THE TOSS: The NFL the Meatpacking District. She opted open stores on the West Coast. “We’ll look fall featuring Angela Lindvall and photo- recruited Patrick Demarchelier to for Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels to for opportunities as they come up,” said graphed by Venetia Scott, which will run in shoot Stacy Keibler dress up a body-hugging Kelly, adding that Texas and Florida are French, English and Japanese magazines. Wednesday at Milk Stacy tank from the home team. also viable markets for the brand. About Change Capital, Cajfinger said: Studios in New York to Keibler Not playing any Known for its modern, feminine collec- “We didn’t need to sell. They wanted to work ramp up high fashion in favorites, she also tions, Paule Ka has been worn by celeb- with us. One of the plans when they bought it its women’s apparel ad reeled in Tanya Snyder, rities such as Kate Middleton, Jennifer was to come to the U.S. We are partners with campaign. The actress whose husband, Dan, Lopez, Kelly Osbourne and Jessica them. This is the perfect product for the U.S.” can hold her own in any owns the Washington Chastain. The company produces rtw, ac- Deputy managing director Antoine Bing football stadium — long Redskins, and Tavia cessories, footwear and outerwear in- added that the goal is for the U.S. to generate 20 before she met George Hunt, whose better half, house. With its signature black dresses, percent of the company’s sales in 2016. Clooney, Keibler was Clark, owns the Kansas skirt suits, bows and organza, the collec- The brand generated revenues of 45 mil- a Baltimore Ravens City Chiefs. Dallas tion is designed in Paris and manufac- lion euros, or $57.9 million, in 2012, up 11.5 cheerleader. The now Cowboys executive tured in Eastern Europe. “Dresses are our percent versus a year ago. It projects sales red-carpet regular went Charlotte Jones Anderson highest penetration for day and evening,” of 100 million euros, or $130.8 million at with a Ravens shirt and also made the cut, said Kelly. The company also produces a current exchange rates, by 2016.

Christian Dior pants STEVE EICHNER as did seasoned pros Black Carpet collection of evening and “It’s the right time for us. We produce for the new NFL ads, Karolina Kurkova, Hilary special-occasion dresses. and deliver very well. Technically, we’re which will break in Rhoda and DJ Kiss. Cajfinger designs 350 stockkeeping units very good. The clothes fit perfectly and we August. PHOTO BY — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG per season, and with pre-collections, it goes deliver early,” said Cajfinger.