Specialty Retail Visionary Leslie H. Wexner Sits Atop the Largest Fragrance Product Business in America, and Is Now Entering the Industry’S Master Hall of Fame
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Fashion. Beauty. Business. IN-STORE PITTI’S SHOWS EVOLUTION PROMISE ON THE GO JUNE 2016 From data and Raf ruminates, Itinerant Frenzy: No. 1 tech to display Gosha on where Fashion houses strive and collaboration, to go and more to outdo each other the store experience about next week’s with increasingly is in transition. Pitti Uomo fair. remarkable locales. Agenda, p. 10 Agenda, p. 29 Features, p. 58 Specialty retail visionary Leslie H. Wexner sits atop the largest fragrance product business in America, and is now entering the industry’s Master Hall of Fame. Builder US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 The Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley Features EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Nick Mrozowski CREATIVE DIRECTOR The Wexner Way 54 A freewheeling interview John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 with one of retailing’s living MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera legends reveals a sharp eye, a MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS MANAGING EDITOR, OPERATIONS Diana Benbasset well-read mind and enough DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood curiosity to build an empire. DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE Shows on the Go SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti 58 Pack the trunks: Fashion BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina takes its cruise season ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis on the road, to locations ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine DEPUTY EDITOR, FASHION Troy Segal near, far, exotic and SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale otherwise remarkable. ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris ASSOCIATE EYE EDITOR Kristen Tauer MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MEN’S FASHION ASSISTANT Kayana Cordwell MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell BEAUTY, FINANCE Allison Collins BEAUTY, MASS MARKET Ellen Thomas BEAUTY, WEST COAST Rachel Brown DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil ASSIGNMENT EDITOR ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi ASSIGNMENT EDITOR LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Kayana Cordwell PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB COORDINATOR Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell DESIGN DEPARTMENT ART DIRECTOR Mallory Roynon DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Jillian Sollazzo PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS Justice Apple, George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, Maxine Wally PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM DIGITAL DIRECTOR Danica Lo Louis Vuitton’s DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond cruise show at the tk Caption Rate nisque et eserae WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton Contemporary plitatem quuntion pe voluptae SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Leah Kircher INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci Art Museum in Rio senimus doloribus a natem renimet de Janeiro. fugiati squam, ipsus si sum quia Photograph by STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Trish Robbins CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-617-9283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-61 Fragrance Foundation Awards EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES The Fragrance Foundation has its grove back: MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer Its awards gala is notching it up and DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti the organization is expanding membership. AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy In Focus, page 43 CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott AND OPERATIONS SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES DEPARTMENTS SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh Evolution of ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch 6 Social Studies PRODUCTION the In-Store The best and worst in social PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley Experience 10 media, what’s trending, whom PRODUCTION MANAGER John Cross Navigating today’s to follow. SUMMITS & EVENTS complicated ominichannel VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher shopping environment. 9 The Essentialist DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso The week’s top stories. SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING 40 Eye FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Parties; Chanel Fine EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore 22 Jewelry hosted a party at the FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR Media People OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Glenda Bailey discusses her New York Public Library DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson evolving role as editor in that dripped with jewels — chief of Harper’s Bazaar and mostly its own. her thoughts on the future Report Card; Ladies range of fashion magazines in from A+ (Georgia May Jagger) WWD AND FAIRCHILD MEDIA ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION an increasingly digital world. to F (Kylie Jenner) while the men score very average Jay Penske CHAIRMAN & CEO grades. VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar 66 Bridget Foley’s Diary STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault The human side of BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT retail layoffs. GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene Agenda Pitti Uomo SVP HUMAN RESOURCES VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson Preview 28 VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar Visvim, Gosha and Raf; VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen Fresh faces in London. DEPUTY GENERAL COUNSEL Judith R. Margolin DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion SR. DIRECTOR OF Joni Antonacci PRODUCTION OPERATIONS CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGER Derek Ramsey DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko PLUS: Briefs Fashion, beauty, accessories, retail, markets, men’s; DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus Face Time Pitti Immagine’s Raffaello Napoleone; Model Call DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson Birgit Kos; Trend Amethyst; Data Points Facets of Jewelry. SENIOR IT ANALYST Carl Foner IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber Ryan Ramos ON THE COVER: Leslie H. Wexner; photographed by Ricky Rhodes TO CONTACT WWD EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 24 ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8103 Wednesday, June 8, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich - Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: