LOOKING BACK, A NEW GET READY FOR VEGAS AND AHEAD THEORY ANDREW ROSEN TALKS THE MEN’S TRENDS FROM EUROPE — AND ABOUT THEORY’S AD WHAT’S INSPIRING DESIGNERS STATESIDE. CAMPAIGN AND LOGO. THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT THE EXHIBITIONS IN LAS VEGAS, PAGES MW4 TO MW7 PAGE 4 ONES TO WATCH AND MORE. SECTION II

APPAREL, TEXTILES INCLUDED U.S. Files WTO Suit Over China Subsidies

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — Trade relations between the U.S. and China took a dramatically downward turn Wednesday. The U.S. fi led a World Trade Organization case against China, targeting a broad export subsidy pro- THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY gram and seven sectors, including apparel, textiles and footwear, and could have broad ramifi cations for WWD the industry’s sourcing strategies. The U.S. is challenging China’s “Demonstration Bases-Common Service Platform” export subsidy program that American offi cials claimed provided $1 billion over a three-year period to suppliers, which then gave discounted or free services to Chinese man- ufacturers that export in the sectors identifi ed. The value of subsidies provided per base varied depend- ing on size, industry and location, but offi cials said there is evidence that certain “base enterprises” have received at least $635,000 worth of annual benefi ts. Exports from the Demonstration Bases program comprise a “signifi cant portion of China’s global ex- ports,” U.S. trade offi cials claimed. In 2012, 16 of the estimated 40 “demonstration bases,” or clusters of companies, in the textile sector allegedly receiving subsidies accounted for 14 percent, or $33.25 billion, of China’s textile exports to the world, trade offi cials said at a news conference. The other six sectors identifi ed by the U.S. as being subsidized by China’s program include advanced materials and met- als, light industry, specialty chemicals, medical prod- ucts, hardware and building materials, and agriculture. “China designates certain companies in these sec- tors as being demonstration bases, which is contingent on them exporting their products,” said U.S. Trade Representative Michael Froman. “Once designated, they are eligible for subsidized services provided by the ‘common services platform.’ So if you are a Chinese tex- tile fi rm designated as a demonstration base, you might get subsidized IT services, subsidized product design SEE PAGE 14 NYC to Invest $15M To Boost Fashion Think Different By LISA LOCKWOOD MADE IN NEW YORK is having a fashion moment For the latest installment of The Iconoclasts, Miuccia Prada looked to the movies, Underscoring the importance of the fashion indus- inviting top costume designers to interpret her spring collection in Prada stores in New try to New York City, Mayor Bill de Blasio and Deputy York, London and Paris. Perhaps not surprisingly, “American Hustle” designer Michael Mayor for Housing and Economic Development Alicia Glen unfurled new and expanded programs Wednesday Wilkinson and his partner Tim Martin took a trip to Studio 54 for their installation, night to support the city’s fashion industry, tripling the opening tonight at the store in New York’s SoHo. Here, a golden moment in progress. current investment to $15 million from $5 million. For more on our exclusive interview, see Bridget Foley’s Diary on pages 12 and 13. The mayor spoke at a press conference at Milk Studios to launch MADE, a six-year-old organization that provides about 35 New York City designers with space, production and other resources to show their collections at no cost during New York Fashion Week. During the press conference, the mayor revealed the city has decided to name a street in the Bronx in honor of Oscar de la Renta. It will be at the intersec- tion of East Fordham Road and Creston Avenue. “He brought such joy in all he did. He will be forever in- grained in the fabric of this city,” said the mayor. De Blasio outlined new and enhanced programs that will directly support and put a spotlight on manufacturers, emerging designers, aspiring de- signers, and students in New York City. Among the attendees were Diane von Furstenberg, Nanette Lepore, Yeohlee Teng, Andrew Rosen, Stacey Bendet, Joyce Brown, Gary Wassner, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of Public School, Stan Herman and Jeffrey Banks. “Fashion week has become something extraordi- nary for the energy, the artistry, the glitz and glam- PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER our, this industry is more vital than ever and employs SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 WWD.COM W. Coast Ports Suspending Operations basic longshore wage, according to the PMA. In Southern THE BRIEFING BOX By KHANH T.L. TRAN California, terminal operators will extend hours on non-holiday weekdays, including on Friday, the PMA IN TODAY’S WWD LOS ANGELES — The Pacific Maritime Association said. The yards, trucks and railways will continue op- is again suspending operations for unloading ships erations during the suspension of vessel operations. at the West Coast ports affected by negotiations The PMA’s decision to continue suspending oper- over a key labor contract. ations spurred a growing number of frustrated com- Mia Moretti at the The association representing cargo carriers and panies who rely on the ports for shipping to call the David Yurman store terminal operators — which is in a nine-month- White House to intervene. “The continued intran- opening in New York’s long dispute with the International Longshore and sigence by labor and management to reach a new SoHo. For more, see Warehouse Union — will cease the loading and un- contract is unacceptable. Retailers and the rest of WWD.com. loading of cargo off vessels for four days, affecting the supply chain are frustrated beyond belief. The work on Thursday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday. slowdowns need to end. The brinkmanship needs to The ports will operate as normal on Friday. stop. It’s time for the White House to immediately The four-day suspension follows a previous one engage in this critically important economic priority imposed by the association on 29 ports last weekend. and force the two sides to remain at the negotiating In response, the union called the second suspen- table until a deal is done,” said Jonathan Gold, vice sion an effort to put economic pressure on dock- president for supply chain at the National Retail workers and gain leverage in the talks. It added Federation. “The ILWU and PMA are delaying cargo that after canceling a negotiating session on and merchandise in the short-term while harming Wednesday afternoon, the PMA hasn’t been avail- the competitiveness of the West Coast ports in the able for negotiations since last Friday. long-term. This stalemate is hurting American busi- Considered a holiday period sandwiched between two nesses, their employees and consumers.” PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND PHOTO BY presidents’ birthdays, workers during the four days would — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM command a pay premium of at least 50 percent of the ARTHUR FRIEDMAN The U.S. fi led a World Trade Organization case against China on Wednesday, targeting a broad export subsidy program and seven sectors, including apparel, textiles and footwear. PAGE 1

Jack Ma Defends Scale, Future of Alibaba New York Mayor Bill de Blasio unfurled new programs Ma also spoke about the need to expand great- to support the city’s fashion industry, tripling the current By LARA FARRAR er access to the mobile Internet and e-commerce investment from $5 million to $15 million. PAGE 1 to China’s rural areas, as well as how Alibaba will BEIJING — Jack Ma, the high-profile executive shift its focus to using data analysis, or “big data,” Theory has redesigned its logo and will launch a new chairman of Alibaba, says the Chinese e-commerce to predict consumer trends and, in turn, help both advertising campaign on billboards, in store windows and digital, giant isn’t “too big to fail.” brands and small businesses. print and campaign books for retailers. PAGE 4 Ma spoke about the future of Alibaba, which had Meanwhile, on Tuesday, China’s General a record-breaking public offering in New York last Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection Balmain has opened a London fl agship, marking a new fall, in a two-hour speech to China’s securities reg- and Quarantine or AQSIQ, said in a statement post- ulatory commission here. ed on its Web site that a senior offi cial with the gov- development phase for the French house, which in recent years As Alibaba’s business expands to other sectors, ernment agency told Ma during a meeting Monday focused largely on fast-growing Asia. PAGE 9 ranging from fi nance to online video, cloud comput- that Alibaba’s business practices are potentially ing, mobile and health care, Ma’s speech seemed an damaging China’s reputation overseas as well as Jay Z has found a chief executive offi cer to lead his Roc exercise in humility and an attempt to allay fears that consumer confi dence in e-commerce at home. Nation Apparel brand: Patrick Guadagno, a former top executive he will not squeeze new entrants into such sectors, as In response to AQSIQ, Alibaba said the company at Versace and Dolce & Gabbana. PAGE 9 well as existing players out of business. Over the past is “dedicated to the fi ght against counterfeits.” year or so, Alibaba has invested millions of dollars in “We work closely with our government partners, Nicky Hilton is going back to her roots for her latest fashion a diverse menagerie of businesses. Most recently, the brands and industry associations to tackle this venture, a fall capsule collaboration with L.A.-based handbag company revealed Monday that it had bought a mi- issue at the source,” the company said. “We also line Linea Pelle called NH Nicky Hilton x Linea Pelle. PAGE 15 nority stake in a Chinese smartphone company. utilize technology, like data mining and big data, “We are big, but not strong,” Ma contended in to scrub our platforms of counterfeits. The AQSIQ Apple will debut its fi rst boards on Pinterest today, marking his speech late Tuesday. “Other people have very meeting is a positive one, and we are glad AQSIQ the latest iteration of the Rich Pin, or pins that include high expectations for us, and we lack a clear under- recognized the efforts Alibaba Group has made in information like real time pricing of a product. PAGE 15 standing of ourselves, as well. the fi ght against counterfeits.” “Alibaba is only 15 years old. We are not as power- China’s e-commerce darling has long publicized Rob Garcia, formerly of En Nori, will unveil his own collection ful as people think,” Ma said at the meeting, where he its efforts to eradicate counterfeit goods from its on- on Wednesday during New York Fashion Week. PAGE MW2 also discussed the company’s plans to line platforms, although brands and expand its online payment and banking e-commerce industry insiders have Jack Ma Sam Smith, who racked up four awards at the Grammys on services. “We have been under tremen- complained that Alibaba has not done dous pressure for the past six months enough. Last August, for example, Sunday, was also a hit with his sartorial ensembles on the red and that pressure is growing.” Kering, which owns brands such as carpet that night. PAGE MW2 He added: “Business is war. But Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta, veterans can survive on the battle- fi led a suit against Alibaba for the al- fi eld. The probability of failure for all leged proliferation of fake brands on ON WWD.COM businesses is the same.” the company’s sites. That suit was later Ma’s remarks come amid ongoing withdrawn after the two sides agreed to EYE: Mia Moretti, Cuba Gooding Jr., Selita Ebanks and turmoil the company is facing, includ- work together to solve the issue. Christina Hendricks helped David Yurman mark the opening ing scrutiny from Chinese regulators In November, some vendors partici- of his new SoHo boutique. For more, see WWD.com. over the alleged selling of fake prod- pating in Alibaba’s Singles’ Day shop- ucts on Taobao.com, a consumer-to- ping event, a holiday on Nov. 11 which, consumer site operated by Alibaba, with discounts, is an online shopping CORRECTION as well as a lawsuit fi led in New York bonanza in China, said the group used John Aquino photographed Wendy Williams and a model wearing alleging the e-commerce company made misleading unfair business practices, forcing them to offer ex- an outfi t from her new line for HSN. The credit was omitted from statements, hiding the fact that it met with Chinese treme promotions in exchange for high-profi le mar- a story on page 8, Wednesday. regulators months before the company’s initial pub- keting on shopping platforms while threatening to lic offering in September. During that July meeting, lower the vendors’ visibility if they offered items at government regulators allegedly raised concerns lower prices on competitors’ sites. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA about possible illegal business practices. “I do not feel I was born to be a businessman,” @ WWD.com/social At the end of January, China’s main corporate Ma said Tuesday in Beijing. “Those of us who are regulator, the State Administration for Industry honest, that is the ideal. But of course there are TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. and Commerce, which had met with Ma in July, many loopholes, but Chinese society has entered a WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. released a white paper outlining illegal business new era, and whatever problems there are, we will COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 29. THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, practices it claimed Alibaba engaged in, includ- communicate those. This is what I want to share.” Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, June, August, September, October, November and December, ing bribery and the selling of counterfeit goods. 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Bugdaycay Returns With Foundrae thing else.” She originally gave notice in By JESSICA IREDALE Beth Bugdaycay in Foundrae’s TriBeCa studio. September, but Kellwood and Taylor con- vinced her to stay on through December.

NEW YORK — Much has happened in “We’re not competing against Rebecca in Beth Bugdaycay’s world in the past two the slightest,” said Bugdaycay. months. In December, she left Rebecca Whereas Rebecca Taylor is strictly con- Taylor, the company she cofounded with temporary, Foundrae is at an opening de- Taylor and presided over as chief execu- signer price point: $350 retail for shirts, tive officer for 18 years. Within weeks she $500 for dresses, up to $2,000 for leathers. had her new venture, Foundrae, up and ’’ Aesthetically, the collection works with the running with a staff of eight, and three vocabulary of current trends — reversible categories — ready-to-wear, fine jewelry shearling vest with tough hardware on it and shoes — ready for the February fall (that can be zipped off and worn cropped wholesale market. Her first retail store and plain); printed jumpsuits; cargo pants is under construction and will open on splattered with paint; culottes, and tom- Lispenard Street here in July. boyish blazers — and fi nishes them with a “I’m a decision-maker,” said Bugdaycay, crafty, artisanal touch. Bugdaycay has also explaining how so much came together in invented her own lexicon, literally. A se- so little time. It helped that she had expe- ries of symbols can be customized and em- rience running a company, deep produc- bossed on some of the items of clothing and tion relationships, not to mention real es- many of the pieces of jewelry, which are de- tate connections. Foundrae’s temporary signed by Leeora Catalan, formerly of Noir. offi ce/showroom is the model apartment The number 8 stands for karma, a crown on in the building, owned by Bugdaycay’s top of a pyramid means achieving dreams, real estate developer husband Murat stars mean divine energy and guidance, a triangle upside down stands for water and femininity. There will be an index of mean- A leather ings. Customers will be able to customize jacket, their jewelry and clothes in the store; for dress and We wanted to work in a way that was wholesale the language will be fi xed. hand-painted “Someone might just buy this be- boots from more meaningful for us and also allowed cause it’s a cool leather jacket,” said Foundrae’s Bugdaycay, handling a black leather shirt fall us to be more accessible to our family. jacket with a deer antler charm and a se- collection. ries of the Foundrae lexicon printed on — BETH BUGDAYCAY, FOUNDRAE the inside of the cuff in gold. “But then when you fl ip this up, they realize they’ve got something that is beautiful and mean- Bugdaycay, who is also a partner in as president. “I needed to make sure I gave ingful and will hopefully inspire them.” Foundrae, and which will house her future myself the space to change my role,” said Bugdaycay has long had a fascination store and apartment — they’re taking the Bugdaycay. “Otherwise I can be ceo all day with mystical things and empowerment penthouse of the seven-unit property. long. I’m used to it.” That said, she has set but stops very short of preaching. “We When Murat bought the building three the baseline policies: two hours per week don’t want people to think this is some years ago, living and working in the same of exercise during work hours; eight hours kind of religion,” she said. relative space was not part of the plan. a month of community service; a relatively The collection’s target audience is But it’s become more than coincidence lax point of view on working from home. Bugdaycay and her peers, a group she and convenience; it’s part of the Foundrae Bugdaycay makes a convincing case for considers ignored by fashion to some ex- company culture, the very personal and the warm, fuzzy way to leave your busi- tent. “I’m 42,” she said, segueing into a new lifestyle Bugdaycay wants to associate ness partner and keep your friendship story about her (former) love of wearing with her brand. “We wanted to work in a intact. She and Taylor sold the company vintage. In the Nineties, the sixtysome- way that was more meaningful for us and to Kellwood Co. in 2011, and as she points thing owner of the showroom she worked also allowed us to be more accessible to out, a three- to fi ve-year run’’ is normal for with for Rebecca Taylor told her that at our family,” she said of partnering with her an incumbent ceo in such situations. a certain age, women have to retire their husband. “We wanted to do it together.” “Was I comfortable at Rebecca vintage, lest it look like it’s been hanging Ariana Huffi ngton would approve. Taylor? Absolutely. Why wouldn’t I be? in their closets. Two years ago, a young After years of approving budgets and Surrounded by people that I really editor from Turkish Vogue complimented running operations, Bugdaycay wanted to loved, that I handpicked myself,” said Bugdaycay on her favorite vintage Lurex fuel the more creative side of her person- Bugdaycay, preemptively dismissing the jumpsuit. “I said, ‘Thanks, it’s from the ality. She is not ceo of Foundrae, but cre- question that looms when ceos leave the Seventies,’ and she goes, ‘I can’t believe ative director and is focused on not confus- companies they start after nearly two it still fi ts you,’ ” recalled Bugdaycay, who ing the roles. Murat is chairman of the new decades on the job. “But it’s like, all of was born in 1972. “Murat said, ‘It’s time to line and they’ve hired Sara Whitney, for- a sudden is that enough? Eighteen years put away your vintage.’ I thought, what in

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY merly director of merchandise at Intermix, is a really long time. I just wanted some- the world am I supposed to wear now?”

100,000-square-foot design and Theory Gets a Makeover for Spring manufacturing center, a block east of Theory’s Meatpacking Natalia Vodianova and Clement the marketplace.” Last spring, District headquarters. By LISA LOCKWOOD Chabernaud, at a London stu- Theory named Lisa Kulson cre- “I do think the marketplace dio. The ads were created by ative director of women’s de- continues to be more complex NEW YORK — Theory will under- the agency Wednesday. In addi- sign. She had returned to the and challenging than it’s been go a total re-branding for spring. tion to a heavy digital and out- company as a consultant in 2012, in the past. Integrity is what The contemporary sports- door presence, ads will break after more than a decade away separates the good company wear brand has redesigned its this month in WSJ. Magazine, from Theory, where she had from the also-rans,” he said. logo and will launch a new ad- T Magazine and The New York previously been vice president Rosen said the biggest chal- vertising campaign with images Times, as well as Le Figaro, Le and head designer. lenge today — aside from the fl aunted on billboards, in store Monde and several Asian pub- Rosen is also a fi rm believer rough winter’s impact on retail windows, digital, print and cam- lications. The exact budget, that a company shouldn’t grow sales — is that companies are paign books for retailers and at which is in the several-million- old with its customers. not only designers, manufactur- points of sale. The Web site will dollar range, wasn’t disclosed. In the past, Theory would ers and wholesalers of clothes. also be updated with a new face, Theory’s logo, which used conduct its business through “We’ve become retailers on an beginning next Wednesday. to be all small letters, will now department stores, but now international basis and not only “For a long time, I operated start with an uppercase T and there are departments stores, on a brick-and-mortar basis in a way that was very grass- will be bolder in font. department stores’ Web sites, but on a digital basis. The com- roots and organic. As time goes “We’ve had to relook at Theory retail stores and its Natalia Vodianova in the spring ad. plexity and disruption of digi- on, I have to continue to evolve what we’re doing and refresh own e-commerce site — each tal commerce and social media and change the platforms of what we’re doing,” said Rosen. of which needs to be ad- About 75 percent of the busi- and marketing has really upped doing business,” said Andrew “Companies should continue to dressed both domestically and ness is women’s, and 25 per- the requirements of a company Rosen, chief executive offi cer modernize themselves. You have internationally, Rosen said. At cent is men’s. Men’s, he said, is and its people to keep pace of Theory, whose global sales to continually evolve and up present, 45 percent of Theory’s growing quickly. with this ever-changing market- are approaching $1 billion. your game and set the bar high- business is conducted in the Rosen said the company is place,” he said. The brand was built on very er. You can’t continue to do busi- U.S., and 55 percent is done investing heavily in the digital “This is the new reality. You little advertising. ness the way [you’ve] done it outside the U.S. The company space and plans to establish have to be better, smarter and David Sims photographed the in the past. You have to engage has 221 stores, including con- a whole digital studio down- faster, but you have the tools to spring campaign, which features the consumer and stimulate cessions around the globe. town when it opens a new, be able to do it,” said Rosen. Gigante Vaz gv012183b Proof 4 Spring15_10x13.875

INTRODUCING BELLAINTRODUCING HADID BELLA HADID

SHOWROOM: 148 W. 37TH ST. 646.467.7727 BOTKIER.COM gv012183b_Spring15_10x13.875.indd 1 2/10/15 3:33 PM 6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 WWD.COM De Blasio Boosts Fashion Investment to $15M {Continued from page one} flea markets and prime retail markets. The shop 180,000 people,” the mayor told the crowd. “That would provide a fully branded “Made in NY” re- is a lot of people. It pays $11 billion in wages tail experience, which would showcase products

and generates $2 billion in tax revenue annu- from New York City designers. ally. We say thank you. Fashion Week attracts The Production Summit would run in the fall people from all over the world, and makes us after New York Fashion Week. The hope is that even more of a capital and generates over $900 it will become an annual event. In addition to million for the city. highlighting best practices and identifying in- “We know we can do more, and we want this novation solutions, it looks to develop an elec-

industry to grow,” de Blasio added. “We want to tronic platform to allow designers to more easily give more opportunity [to] people who haven’t connect with local production facilities, and ex- had economic chances, and we want it to be all pand worker training sessions so garment work- over the five boroughs. When you believe in some- ers can stay up-to-date in their production skill

thing, you invest in it, and the city of New York set. To date, the city’s Fashion Manufacturing is tripling our investment in fashion initiatives.” Initiative has granted more than $1.1 million for The goal, he said, is to strengthen the city in equipment upgrades’’ and workforce develop- every phase of the production cycle, from the ment at 13 New York City manufacturing firms. first idea to the garments being loaded onto the The city’s existing Fashion Production Fund has trucks, while also investing in home-grown tal- already awarded a total of nearly $1 million to

ent “which will keep us competitive and a lead- 11 designers to help fulfill purchase orders. er in fashion.” After a briefing about the initiatives, Steven The $15 million suite of new initiatives will Kolb, ceo of the CFDA, said, “I believe that be largely comprised of public-private partner- Mayor de Blasio and the administration have, ships, spearheaded and financed by the New in their one year in office, really demonstrated York City Economic Development Corp., with a belief in the importance of fashion as an in- additional funding’’ from a diverse group of in- dustry both in terms of its economic impact and dustry partners. Some of the programs are al- its ability to employ people. From early on, they ready underway, while others are new. have backed that belief up with support.” The new public-private programs to support Kolb recalled one of the first things de and strengthen the city’s design and manufac- Blasio did for the fashion industry last year turing sectors include: was come to the Fashion Incubator when n A two-year, $5 million creative marketing campaign, launching this year, that will lever- age traditional and digital advertising media to showcase the city’s fashion companies. When you believe in n Madeinnyfashion.nyc, a digital hub created by NYCEDC that went live Wednesday. The Web something, you invest in it, site is devoted to promoting local designers and manufacturers, highlighting New York City-made and the city of New York products and providing the fashion industry with resources, information and news and events. is tripling our investment We know we can do in fashion initiatives. the CFDA unveiled the first round of its more, and we want this Fashion Manufacturing Initiative grants. Both the Fashion Incubator and the Fashion industry to grow. Manufacturing Initiative are both CFDA pro- homas Iannaccone t grams in partnership with NYCEDC. — NYc MaYor Bill de Blasio “Knowing that the mayor was going to make this announcement tonight, I knew it was a lot photo by photo by of initiatives around Made in New York and fur- n An additional $5 million in programs ther support for fashion. I didn’t know the spe- for manufacturers which include Capital and cifics of it, and it’s good to hear that,” Kolb said. Workforce Grants that build upon existing pro- “The execution of it and the impact of it will be grams to empower local production facilities based on how much everyone puts into it. As an to implement the latest technology and train- The Mayor Does Schtick organization, CFDA is committed to support- By LISA LOCKWOOD ing programs for employees. New seed fund- WHEN MAYOR BILL DE BLASIO came up to the podium ing the mayor on those initiatives,’’ specifically ing from public and private sources — such Wednesday night to address the crowd at Milk Studios, he where it relates to programs we’re involved in.” MADE IN NEW YORK is having a fashion moment as Andrew Rosen, chief executive officer of brought his wife, First Lady Chirlane McCray, with him. Mazdack Rassi, cofounder of Made Fashion Underscoring the importance of the fashion indus- Theory, who is a champion of this — will help “She’s very fashionable and she thinks it’s important to wear Week and Milk Studios, said he’s excited about try to New York City, Mayor Bill de Blasio and Deputy companies that use advanced technologies or fashion that’s designed and made in New York City,” said the the programs that de Blasio outlined. “The Mayor for Housing and Economic Development Alicia offer services not easily available in the city’s mayor. He asked her to tell the audience who she was wearing, awards show is really great,” adding the city has Glen unfurled new and expanded programs Wednesday fashion manufacturing sector, such as knitwear. and she responded “Anni Kuan,” and did a twirl to show off her similar events for tech and film, and it would be night to support the city’s fashion industry, tripling the ’’ n Creating a “Production Summit” for fash- white embroidered jacket and black pants. an extension into fashion. current investment to $15 million from $5 million. ion manufacturing, which utilizes best practices “We are all so thrilled to be here,” said de Blasio, citing the cre- He also praised the pop-up stores concept, es- The mayor spoke at a press conference at Milk and identifies innovative solutions for industry ative energy and entrepreneurship in the room, and the fact that pecially as a way to use empty retail spaces that Studios to launch MADE, a six-year-old organization challenges. the industry has been going on for generations and generations. aren’t leased. “Perhaps the city can come in and that provides about 35 New York City designers with n Earmarking $4 million for new and ex- But before he got down to business, he talked about his own curate those empty spaces with young designers. space, production and other resources to show their panded design initiatives that will help design- family’s style sense. It can be so vibrant,” Rassi said. He also liked collections at no cost during New York Fashion Week. ers increase their visibility within the industry “I am not the leading fashionista in my household. Of the four the idea of an ad campaign. “We are a creative During the press conference, the mayor revealed by providing space at trade shows, as well as members of my household, I am fourth in terms of fashionista. content company, so when we hear ad campaigns, the city has decided to name a street in the Bronx in pop-up shops and partnerships to give them I am well behind Dante with his signature flip-flops, shorts and we are always excited. There is a value system honor of Oscar de la Renta. It will be at the intersec- more exposure to the public. T-shirts.” But the other two members of his family have registered when you look at something that says, ‘Made in tion of East Fordham Road and Creston Avenue. “He n An awards program that recognizes Made on fashion and style. Teen Vogue called his daughter Chiara’s Italy,’ or ‘Made in Paris.’ There was always a brought such joy in all he did. He will be forever in- in NY designers who have demonstrated excep- style “enviably and effortlessly cool.” branding problem with ‘Made in New York,’ and grained in the fabric of this city,” said the mayor. tional promise and ability. It will be held in late “I get all my news from Teen Vogue,” added the mayor. we do need an ad campaign to correct that,” he De Blasio outlined new and enhanced programs 2015 or early 2016. The Daily News reported that when his wife met the Duchess said. “There should be a premium attached to a that will directly support and put a spotlight on n A new $1 million program, sponsored by of Cambridge “they took cues from each others’ closets.” He said garment that says, ‘Made in New York.’” manufacturers, emerging designers, aspiring de- the city, to connect aspiring design students in when the fashion summit occurred in New York City, his wife was Rassi said Wednesday night’s event marked signers, and students in New York City. Among the the industry via scholarships to study fashion- wearing Nanette Lepore, whom the mayor gave a shout-out to in the the first time the city’s mayor had attended Made attendees were Diane von Furstenberg, Nanette related disciplines at New York City-based room. “The Duchess of Cambridge looked wonderful, but Chirlane, Fashion Week since it started six years ago. “It’s Lepore, Yeohlee Teng, Andrew Rosen, Stacey educational institutions. It will also offer fully in Nanette’s coat, striking.” a big deal for Made Fashion Week and our corpo- Bendet, Joyce Brown, Gary Wassner, Maxwell funded internships at fashion companies for He even told about his own grandmother who opened an embroi- rate partners who have supported Made. It does Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of Public School, Stan students to gain exposure to the industry. dery shop and turned it into a high-class ladies’ dress shop. “I think help American businesses and New York City Herman and Jeffrey Banks. Scholarships will be given for pre-college pro- if my grandmother were here today, she would be amazed and over- businesses. We don’t just look at them as design- “Fashion week has become something extraordi- grams (at the high school level) as well as col- joyed about all that’s happening in New York City and what fashion ers, but small businesses,” Rassi said. nary for the energy, the artistry, the glitz and glam- lege programs. has become.” So many ideas started from humble origins and be- New York City’s wholesale fashion market our, this industry is more vital than ever and employs As for specifics, an ad campaign will be came something extraordinary. attracts more than 500,000 visitors a year to its launched this summer. The NYCEDC, which has Back to the business at hand, he noted how excited his administra- trade shows, showrooms and fashion shows. an in-house marketing department, will work tion gets about fashion events. “When we have a fashion week event, Overall, the industry generates more than $18 with the city’s creative arm, NYC & Co., to de- the entire administration comes out. They’re all supposed to be at a billion in retail sales, $72 billion in wholesale velop the campaign. The city will also develop meeting somewhere, but they’re here instead.” sales and $8 billion in manufacturing sales an- retail activations around New York, which could — Lisa Lockwood nually. The city’s semiannual Fashion Weeks include pop-up retail shops and partnerships, attract about 232,000 attendees to more than kiosks in Grand Central Terminal, spaces within 500 shows. T:10”

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MCX5-10317695 MAYBELLINE COMPANY Bleed None Dir of Studio Svcs Chris Weston CORPORATE Trim 10” x 13.875” Dir of Graphic Svcs Stu Turner Lash Sensational WWD – Christy Page Safety None Project Manager Thomas King Gutter None Account Exec Allison Benoit Christy Turlington Line Screen 100 Global Creative Chm Jane Mauksch 4/C Newspaper Page Lo/Hi Res High Creative Director Brian O’Reilly WWD: 2015 Paper Newsprint Art Director Stacy Zanca Proof # 1 Copywriter Holly Flukinger Revision Round 4 Proofreader Denni Heiges Operator: Jacobson, Elisa (NYC- Print/Export: 2-6-2015 5:49 PM Printed At: 100% Fonts: Times (Roman), Graphik (Bold, Semi- Images: MCX5-10317695_Comp_F_4CNP.tif PDF Sent To bold), Giorgio Sans (Bold, Medium), Helvetica (CMYK; 300 ppi; 100%) (Bold Condensed, Black Condensed), Helvetica Inks: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Additional Specs: Neue (55 Roman), Bauer Bodoni (Black Con- Black None densed) Notes: None 8 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 WWD.COM Josie Natori New York Gets Under Way Josie Natori: Josie Natori has left 10 Crosby Derek Lam: Elizabeth Elsewhere, a hot-pink dahlia her comfort zone, where the Giardina continued to explore print added a more traditional chic and sleek ladies reside. what she called “a clever twist” femininity to Posen’s intarsia She’s wandered into more exotic for fall, reinterpreting wardrobe knitwear and silk-chiffon looks for territory — Istanbul — whose classics in new ways. She started evening. The expanding collection palaces and whirling dervishes with typically wintry, masculine has added an outerwear license, surfaced in her luxuriously layered fabrications — brushed mohairs, and the season’s inaugural range fall collection. Fringed wraps cotton plaids, denim, double- included lamb shearling, tweed and thrown over shawl-collared coats faced wool and shearlings — and boiled wool coats, some with chic and trousers, toppers with circle mixed them up with a Seventies, ombré effects. — K.G. skirts, fur stoles and a high fez all Scandinavia-inspired floral print played into the show’s Turkish that had a subtle metallic sheen DKNY Men’s: DKNY Men’s brought tone. The strongest exits were in to it. The feminine-masculine its signature aesthetic to the indigo-blue wool: a short jacket tension worked well, especially in performance arena with a “cold and circle skirt, and a slender Giardina’s chic, boyish trousers fusion” collection that centered quilted topper and sheath, with detachable skirts and oversize around bonded technical fabrics wrapped in a bordeaux knitted outerwear, which included a and modern silhouettes. rabbit stole. topper with a luxe coyote fur collar. The “urban-ready hybrid After the initial surprise of Several looks came styled with wardrobe” offered up some of such exotic fare, some of the fringe scarves, velvet-heeled mules the season’s key trends, including repetitive layering seemed a and over-the-knee boots, all of turtlenecks layered under everything bit labored and unnecessary to which were total knockouts. from tailored blazers to active parkas. showcase the designer’s strong — KRISTI GARCED The brand’s black-and-white separates. Nevertheless, the fi nale color story was expanded to — a fl owing, long-sleeved, trapunto Frame Denim: It’s a crossroads all cool include bottle green and berry, two gown in a white double-knit jersey denim labels face: Evolve beyond of fall’s primary colors. — took Natori’s show full circle, jeans or risk irrelevance. After several The collection’s message proving she still enjoys the simple seasons as “It” in the denim market, was best showcased in an active things in life. — BOBBI QUEEN cofounders Jens Grede and Erik stretch fabric suit that looked like Torstensson were intent on being “a wool from a distance but draped Hellessy: Working with the idea of a sportswear collection with its heart in beautifully on the body. modern day Mina, Winona Ryder’s denim for fall,” said Grede. They took Although the ath-leisure trend is character from the 1992 version of the path of least resistance: classic hardly new, DKNY’s execution felt “Bram Stoker’s Dracula,” Sylvie Seventies cinematic style, evidenced fresh and urban. — JEAN E. PALMIERI Millstein gorgeously translated by slinky Henleys, a belted shirtdress, the tension of fragility and boyish sweaters and, the most Fingers Crossed: Ryu Hayama dug strength into clothes that have ambitious pieces, suede bell-bottoms deep for inspiration for his men’s a practical future in women’s and a suede wrap trench. It all served collection — the deep blue sea — wardrobes. Millstein’s daywear to elevate the denim — fl ared fi ts and with a nautical-themed offering that has been and continues to be a neat midi pencil skirt — which will featured water prints on pajama strong, building a lean, languid remain the label’s bread and butter. bottoms and shirts, bright yellow silhouette out of ivory, wide- — J.I. leather bombers and track pants, and leg techno crepe pants, a fuzzy a French sailor’s stripe on sweaters. sweater and a softly spare, fog- Zac Zac Posen: Zac Posen envisioned But Hayama elevated the gray, double-faced alpaca coat. his fall contemporary collection collection by including sharp This season, she put more of through a Sixties Space Age lens, tailoring in suits and topcoats as well a focus on evening, making an seen in the lineup’s abbreviated in rich wool-cashmere blends. The elegant, modern proposition out hemlines, circular proportions voluminous, multipleated pants and of a spare, crimson bustier paired and celestial-inspired prints and belted topcoats were very on trend. with a draped burgundy satin textures. Sleek fabrications such All told, while the oceanic skirt and a draped white blouse as a blue stretch-velvet halter references were clear, the FALL 2015 featuring a long cutaway tail over gown and metallic foiled-leather collection seemed to be more classic tuxedo pants. separates further evoked the suited for the boat owner than the NEW YORK — JESSICA IREDALE collection’s Mod spirit. working seaman. — ALEX BADIA COLLECTIONS DKNY Hellessy 10 Frame Men’s Crosby Denim Derek Lam

Zac Zac Fingers Posen Crossed

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway. NATORI PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; ALFARO BY MICHAEL AUCOIN; FINGERS CROSSED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE FINGERS CROSSED MICHAEL AUCOIN; BY BY GIANNONI; ALFARO GIOVANNI PHOTO BY NATORI WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 9 WWD.COM

Views from the Balmain store in London. MAC and MFW Team Up Week,” said John Demsey, group By JULIE NAUGHTON president of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., noting that the brand MAC COSMETICS has inked has been sponsoring individu- a three-year partnership with al shows both globally and in Camera Nazionale della Moda Milan for more than 20 years. Italiana as the official makeup “With our new partnership with sponsor of Milan Fashion Week. Camera Nazionale della Moda MAC is also serving as a main Italiana, MAC now formalizes partner of Next Generation, its continued commitment to a contest that selects several Italian designers both estab- young designers to support lished and up-and-coming.” and mentor with the help of Demsey noted that MAC industry professionals. For the supports more than 850 shows fi rst time, the contest will take globally each year. He is also place online and will chroni- passionate about nurturing cle the designers’ experiences fashion’s emerging talent. “Over as they compete for the Next the last several years, we have Generation prize. Four fi nalists aligned with organizations such will be narrowed down to one as CFDA, ANDAM, Fashion East winner by an appointed jury, and the British Fashion Awards and the winning designer will so that we can participate in be featured in Elle magazine their programs, specifi cally ones with Chiara Ferragni, Italian that foster the next generation of model and blogger for the- talent,” said Demsey, adding that blondesalad.com, wearing the CNMI also supports that goal. PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS PHOTOSBY winning piece of apparel. “And we don’t just support de- “Almost since the brand’s signers during fashion week. We inception, MAC has made fash- show our commitment and loy- ion designers a priority, from alty to them 365 days a year, in- Balmain Branches Out makeup artistry to product col- cluding helping with look books laborations, and we have, for and other things. We’re not only forecasting a 15 percent pace Dehecq said majority own- many years, supported [indi- champions of the people in the By MILES SOCHA this year, driven by women’s ership has passed to a family vidual] Italian fashion houses limelight but also the designer ready-to-wear. holding company, and that the backstage during Milan Fashion who is struggling to get there.” BALMAIN HAS OPENED a He noted that resort loca- fi rm’s strong cash fl ow, and zero London flagship, marking a tions frequented by Russians debt, should allow it to fi nance new development phase for such as Courchevel also scaled expansion without having to the French house, in recent back orders during the recent take on additional partners. years focused largely on fast- pre-fall women’s and fall men’s The brand has accrued a Guadagno Joins Roc Nation growing Asia. wear markets. strong following on social media partners. “Our customer base is The 2,350-square-foot Still, he painted strong fu- thanks to its creative director By DAVID MOIN universal,” he said. “The con- unit on South Audley Street ture prospects for Balmain, Olivier Rousteing, who rang in sumer is confi dent, modern and in Mayfair should generate which has yet to capitalize on the New Year with Selena Gomez JAY Z IS ready to rock with his a trend setter,” just like Jay Z. fi rst-year sales of 2 million to its potential in accessories, and Kendall Jenner in Dubai, Roc Nation Apparel brand and Roc Nation has been in the 3 million euros, or $2.3 mil- particularly handbags, current- and who counts Rihanna and has found a chief executive to media a lot recently, with the lion to $3.4 million at current ly limited to its Pierre style. Kim Kardashian among mem- lead the business. Roc Nation Sports agency this exchange, and help bers of his fan club. On Monday, Patrick Guadagno, the brand cultivate a Rousteing has racked former top executive at Versace broader local clientele up close to a million and Dolce & Gabbana, in addition to tour- followers on Instagram, officially starts as ceo ists from the Middle while Balmain boasts of Roc Nation East and Asia, said 1.2 million. Apparel, WWD has Emmanuel Diemoz, Balmain is plan- learned. Currently, Balmain’s chief execu- ning an offi cial open- there is no ceo at tive offi cer. ing event for London the company. Diemoz said the in mid-March. A new Considering Jay next step is a boutique men’s fragrance from Z’s following and in New York City, dis- licensee Inter Pafums the wide appeal of closing that he just is another key product the Roc Nation brand, signed a lease to open volley coming in 2015. and that Roc Nation at 100 Wooster Street Like its Paris flag- Apparel launched online last in SoHo in the sec- ship on Rue François November with a limited offer- ond half of the year, 1er, the London ing — essentially T-shirts, caps seen as Balmain’s fi rst store was designed and hoodies — there’s major expansion volley in by French architect room for product development, America. The U.S. ac- Joseph Dirand, who branding and overall growth. A sweater from the line. counts for only 20 per- transposed antique cent of Balmain’s busi- brass and polished week disclosing that it had ness, but 30 percent of steel fi xtures into the ended its two-year partnership e-commerce orders. site’s original Queen with Creative Artists Agency. “When we compare Anne Revival style. The Roc Nation Sports represents ourselves to other two-level unit has a New York Yankees pitcher CC brands, we are far Neoclassical-inspired Sabathia and Oklahoma City from where we could décor with modern de- Thunder forward Kevin Durant, be,” he said about the tails in the mix — be- among other athletes. Last U.S. market, seen as a spoke wood paneling month, Roc Nation Sports bought new Eldorado for lux- on walls, stainless steel Gary Shaw Productions which ury players because of floating shelves, fixed promotes boxing bouts, and Roc its buoyant economy. and free-standing gold Nation made a $56 million offer Europe accounts for rails and light and dark for Aspiro, the Swedish owner of 40 percent of Balmain’s marble tables. Patrick two digital music services, in a business, Asia 30 per- Boxy green suede Guadagno deal that gives Jay Z a foothold in cent and the Middle armchairs rest on a streaming music. East and Russia the remaining The London flagship ar- beige carpet, while a tall and For the past few years, 10 percent, Diemoz noted. rives only two months after skinny bespoke lamp designed “This opportunity pres- Guadagno has been working as Balmain has 19 directly the death of Alain Hivelin, the by Max Ingrand sits on gray ents itself as a clean canvas,” an independent strategic advis- owned stores, concentrated majority owner of Balmain and cream slate fl oor tiles. The Guadagno said. “It is in itself er to brands and private equity in China as well as in Tokyo, and the architect of its rejuve- fi tting room features gold leaf essentially a start-up. The poten- fi rms. He said his career focus Seoul, Hong Kong and Dubai. nation and global expansion. panel detailing on the wood tial is strong. The essence of the has been on start-ups, turn- Leaner orders from Russian Diemoz and Jean-François panel walls. brand is exciting. We can pursue arounds and branding. retailers, grappling with a Dehecq, chairman, stressed The ground fl oor carries the specifi c collaborations with lead- Guadagno started his career weak ruble and tightening continuity in Balmain’s man- women’s spring apparel, acces- ing brands in footwear or outer- in sales at Yves Saint Laurent international sanctions, may agement and board of di- sories and shoe collections, while wear, for example, and really men’s wear, and went on to posi- temper Balmain’s momentum rectors. Moreover, they said the lower level showcases the focus on the branding aspect.” tions of increasing responsibility in 2015 after a strong 2014 that Hivelin, in concert with man- men’s spring apparel and shoes. Guadagno emphasized the po- at Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, saw sales advance more than agement, had fi xed a strategic — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS tential to grow the e-commerce Dolce & Gabbana and Versace 20 percent. Diemoz said he’s road map for the company. FROM LORELEI MARFIL business and cultivate retail U.S. He left Versace in 2009. 10 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 WWD.COM Warmer Temps Put Chill on ISPO Munich er conditions and high youth up 3 percent, and for next fall Zitzelsberger, buyer of ap- are top of our list. We organize By PAULINA SZMYDKE unemployment in some regions. Burger expects a 5 to 7 percent parel at sporting goods chain a lot of events, invite our cus- Winter sports slumped 19 rise. “We also stopped working Intersport, which reported tomers to go skiing with us and MUNICH — Global warming percent, leaving the floor to with dealers who just wanted to growth of 2 percent in 2014, as try out our equipment on the was the main topic at this year’s outdoor, now accounting for 20 buy a price but not the brand,” he the team sports category (up slopes. We take pictures and ISPO Munich, where exhibitors percent of the sporting goods said, adding that the cross-train- 24 percent) and running (up 14 put them on Facebook. It has and retailers lamented lower market in Germany, which ing boom and ath-leisure trend percent) offset the ailing winter become so popular, last time margins during an exceptionally — along with Austria and have helped its women’s segment sports segment, down 19 per- we had to book a double-deck- mild winter in Europe. Switzerland — still accounts for grow 15 percent year-on-year. cent. “It’s too warm for some er bus. This of course creates Industry executives said the the bulk of business for many As a result, Billabong will of the down products that we added value. You can’t just sell milder weather is driving business exhibiting companies. open a new corner in Galeries have seen here from companies product, because people can toward the outdoor and perfor- The stands of The North Face, Lafayette’s “well-being” depart- like Fjällräven. Instead, we are buy that online,” she said, citing mance categories, with base lay- Patagonia and Luhta/Icepeak at least three brick-and-mortar ers and lightweight, cross-purpose were among the busiest at the sporting goods retailers in her outerwear among buzzy items. fair, as buyers were looking to area that are slated to close “For us, weather counts more stock up on outdoor jackets. their doors this year. than the economic environment But as Jeremy De Maillard, The fair’s rich after-work en- we are in,” said Klaus Hotter, vice president of marketing tertainment, including live DJ executive vice president of the and e-commerce at The North parties and skateboard compe- winter sports division at Head, Face, noted: “Outdoor is already titions, seemed to confi rm in- the Austrian ski equipment and growing a little slower. Athletic teractive group activities as a clothing specialist. and performance — this is strong trend. “Italy was our best-perform- where the growth is, driven by Currency issues, mean- ing market in 2013. We sold 27 ath-leisure, higher participation while, plagued those brands percent more skis there be- and younger consumers that are with their own stores in cause it was a snowy winter. active more and all year-long.” Switzerland, following the But last December, which is “The most important thing Swiss National Bank’s move an important month for retail, is not to bet all cards on one ac- last month to unpeg the Swiss was too warm, with not enough tivity, but to have product that franc from a fixed exchange snow. In total, we registered 30 is apt for various segments,” rate with the euro. “We lost 20 percent fewer reorders through- agreed Norbert Sandner, sales percent of our turnover in the out December and November. manager at Patagonia. Swiss business,” Rochat said. Apparel was stronger hit than Others, like German hosiery “Fortunately, we produce in hardware. We are about to re- specialist Falke, were eager to euro. If we produced in francs, cover from the incurred losses, grow their geographical foot- it would be very, very bad.” but we are not there yet. The print to reduce their depen- An installation at ISPO Munich. Considering how close the New Year started off well, but dence on Central Europe. “With borders are between the Alpine we need a strong season until 70 percent, it remains our core countries, Mover and many oth- Easter,” Hotter explained. market. But we have rearranged ment at the end of the month, with looking for light, quilted jack- ers had to lower their prices to The executive noted that our company structure in the a matching capsule collection. ets, Thermoball technology and match the euro level, which lost while professional, high-end Nordic counties, we are working “Women’s is defi nitely grow- wool as insulation.” 20 percent against the franc, to products are bought early in with a new agency in the U.K. ing, but it has to be a cross- As winters are getting warmer, keep customers coming. the season, it’s occasional ski- and have opened an offi ce in the purpose product,” confirmed the buyer was scouting for items “The Swiss are now buy- ers, deterred by the mild winter, U.S.,” said Mike Kaier, manager Oliver Strickland, interna- that would sell well between sea- ing in euro online, or they who have dented sales. of the brand’s ergonomic sport tional sales manager at Lyle sons, which made outdoor and shop across the border,” said “It’s not that there isn’t system division, set to boost its & Scott, a newcomer at ISPO. performance attractive. Alexandre Fauvet, ceo at enough snow on the slopes, lesser known functional socks The Scottish knitwear special- “We need both: outdoor Fusalp, the French skiwear there is always artifi cial snow and apparel range. ist came to present’’ its new for hiking and urban use,” he specialist, which opened pop- if needed. But with unfavor- Nearly every brand queried base-layer collection done in said, while warning that, with ups in Courchevel, France, and able weather conditions, had a plan B up its sleeve. merino wool, which was see- more brands moving into the Verbier, Switzerland, this sea- customers are not in the “We are in the middle ing strong demand at the fair, latter segment, it was getting son. “On the French side we mood for skiing,” Hotter of a turnaround strat- as buyers were looking for new, increasingly diffi cult to reach had our best weekend thanks said, pointing to the egy,” said Billabong’s innovative items. the target group. “At some to Swiss shoppers, who sud- company’s one-digit sales manager for “Base layer is a fairly new point you start competing with denly had 20 percent more growth in 2014. Europe, Nicolas category that was dominated the fashion industry and the purchasing power; on the Weather did not Burger. “Surf is by a couple of brands, and it share is getting smaller. In Swiss side, which also regis- deter visitors from still growing as is also inspired by ath-leisure. such case, functionality is a tered many cancellations, it showing up in re- an industry; all It’s not just about sweatshirts must, and that can be fashion- was horrible.” cord numbers for A thermoball surf schools are and hoodies anymore. It has to able, too,” he said. Like most other sporting business — and hoodie from full. Gym centers be practical and perform well,” Independent retailers good makers, Fusalp is sourc- parties — at the The North Face. are developing Strickland said. such as Easy Sports, based in ing its product in U.S. dollars bellwether sport- fitness classes He said the product is suit- Schöneich, Germany, were from specialized factories ing goods trade based on surfi ng able for running, golfing and looking to differentiate in China, “but now we are show, which because people thinking about bringing ended its four- fi nd it inspiring, the production back day run here on while Chanel to Europe,” said Feb. 8. ISPO drew and H&M let For us, weather counts more than the Fauvet, noting that more than 83,000 surfers carry their it was going to be visitors, includ- messages — this is economic environment we are in. “a long process.” ing a number of a sign,” he said. Regardless of high-profi le athletes Burger noted — KLAUS HOTTER, HEAD A Montana the odds, the exec- such as Michael Phelps, Philipp the industry lived in a bubble ensemble utive said he was Lahm and Reinhold Messner. for too long. “The golden years cycling thanks to its moisture themselves from by Fusalp. very optimistic “With a net surface of 104,940 were at the end of the Nineties, wicking and natural antiodor bigger competi- about the future, square meters [1.1 million square early 2000s. Surf lifestyle be- features, but noted that skiwear tors. “For us it’s echoing the mood feet] and 2,585 exhibitors [20 more came so trendy, we reached a remained a big market for the about finding of other attendees. than last year], the fair, which size that did not refl ect the real brand. “We see big opportu- something that “To give you an ex- comprises nearly all big names size of the market, and so in nity in Germany, Austria and is new and spe- ample, we had a ter- from the international sporting the last three, four years surf Switzerland.” cial. People rible sell through goods world, was completely sold brands have suffered.” Merino wool was also mak- are still willing with one of our deal- out,” said Klaus Dittrich, chair- The Australian company is ing a splash at the Mover to spend money ers in Zermatt, in man and chief executive offi cer of now looking to become a 360-de- stand, where ultra-light and on product they Switzerland, and yet Messe München. gree-brand via its ready-to-wear breathable, yet warm and wa- do not see on every- he doubled his order for Business was up or down, de- business which comprises the terproof, wool anoraks and body else,” observed next year. It’s because he pending on region and category, Surf+ line, an urban collec- jackets were receiving or- Andrea Hamann,’’ the believes in what we do,” with Germany and outdoor as tion inspired by surf culture; ders. “This is our first sea- shop’s owner, who he said. the big winners. the Garage line with a focus on son without any plastic in the singled out Almgwand Fusalp’s new outer- The Federation of European denim and workwear, and the collection — so no Gore-Tex, for its knitwear and wear collection under Sporting Goods Retail new adventure division, which no polyamine, and the retail- was visiting Chiemsee, the artistic direction of Associations estimates that pushes function in sportswear. ers love it, because they need which was showing former Lacoste veteran while the sporting goods market “Surfers today are not only an alternative. This is a very denim-look-alike prints Mathilde Lacoste scored grew 1.5 percent to 7.3 billion wearing T-shirts and [drop- solid base for growth,” said within its slim-fitted high at the fair: Its new euros, or $8.3 billion at cur- crotch harem pants],” explained Nicolas Rochat, owner and ceo skiwear collection. Montana jacket and rent exchange, in Germany, in Arsène Vellard, the brand’s of Mover, a high-end skiwear Hamann stressed the matching pants scooped Europe it fell 5 percent to 35.8 men’s product manager. “And so brand from Switzerland. importance for indie the 2014 ISPO Award billion euros, or $40.5 billion, the strategy is working.” “The trend goes towards dealers of staying person- in the Ski-Lifestyle and battered by unfavorable weath- Orders for spring 2015 were lightness,” observed Marco al. “Customer relations Fashion category. LES COPAINS SHOWROOM - 46W 55TH ST, NEW YORK - 212.262.8556 - lcinfo@ bvmspa.com LESCOPAINS.COM 12 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015

In London: a surreal fi lm by Arianne Phillips.

Prada’s Iconoclasts Think Different

WINDOWS COVERED WITH provocative received two Oscar nominations, for “Walk signage will tempt passersby to imagine the the Line” and “W.E.,” directed by Madonna, In New York: Seventies party mode, revelry within: The room pulsing with the with whom she’s worked for 17 years, design- from Michael Wilkinson and Tim Martin. wanton pleasure of a bacchanalian subcul- ing stage costumes and styling. Phillips has ture, its glam population living for the glee- a thriving parallel career as a fashion editor fully debauched moment, dancing, singing, and editorial stylist. who-knows-what-ing, a girl swishing through Canonero, in Prada’s view, is “basically the air on a swing, oblivious to the dangerous the greatest costume designer.” Her long, path of her endless train. brilliant career spans from “A Clockwork Far away, perhaps a world away, two Orange” in 1971 to “The Grand Budapest young girls, obvious innocents, face a bleak Hotel,” for which she may collect her sec- reality, alone together in a bizarrely beauti- ond Oscar on Feb. 22; she won previously for ful, post-winter world. Or post-Apocalyptic? Marie Antoinette. Who are they? Sisters, friends facing the bar- To those who don’t wax intellectual about renness together, or one person, creating a the differences among various fashion-re- mirror image of herself as a defense against lated careers, Prada’s decision to engage loneliness? Whatever their backstory, they costume designers rather than fashion edi- share nothing with the self-indulgent, club tors may seem like no big deal. Fashion deity revelers behind the enticing door. Except for and student of the genre that she is, she one thing — their glorious Prada wardrobes. fi nds the distinction signifi cant. “Of course, The club scene, an installation by the cre- the fashion editors are the ones that know ative team of Michael Wilkinson and Tim the clothes the best, but costume designers Martin, opens tonight at Prada’s store in also,” Prada tells WWD. “I thought they were New York’s SoHo. The scene of artful desola- the perfect people to try to do this work. In tion is a short fi lm by Arianne Phillips, the a way, it’s more complicated because they anchor element of an event set for Feb. 20 at are used to a different point of view; [in fi lm] the brand’s London store. Together with an they have to interpret the vision. For this, installation designed by Milena Canonero they have to do their vision.” destined for the store on the Rue du From the point of view of those she enlist- Faubourg Saint- Honoré in Paris, they com- ed, the choice is nothing short of profound. prise installment three of Miuccia Prada’s Phillips says she’s accustomed to compart- collaborative series, The Iconoclasts. mentalizing her two careers; she approached Prada launched the series in 2009 with this project as a costume designer. The as- Alex White, Carine Roitfeld, Katie Grand signment, she says, was important not just and Olivier Rizzo; it continued last year for her, but for the entire profession. with Edward Enninful. While it’s inaccurate “Costume designers constantly feel alien- to pinpoint a singular difference with this ated from the fashion world. The work that’s effort — all of the installations have been done by costume designers is misunder- wildly distinctive — this marks the fi rst time stood,” she says, noting that “worst-case Prada has gone outside the insider fashion scenario, people think that we’re shoppers.” world. While her previous Iconoclasts were Later, in a separate exchange, Canonero all fashion stylists, this time they’re costume echoes the “shopper” insult. designers — superstar costume designers Phillips says Prada’s engagement of cos- of the multiple Oscar nomination variety. tume designers has resonance beyond three (Wilkinson was nominated for his work on particular stars of the fi eld. “It elevated the the fashion-charged “American Hustle”; profession,” she says. “I was recently at an he also outfi tted next year’s “Batman vs. event with a lot of costume designers. People Superman: Dawn of Justice.”) For this proj- are so excited that fi nally, a fashion compa- ect, he worked with architect/set designer ny has invited us as costume designers and Tim Martin, his life partner with whom he brought us in.” recently established a creative company for Prada says it’s about dialogue, about the the purpose of developing projects rooted in fi lm-fashion dialogue, each informing the the fashion-fi lm fusion. other. But dialogue is an ongoing theme of Phillips did the costumes for “Kingsman: her work. Most people in fashion think of In Paris: the earth moves, by Milena Canonero. The Secret Service,” out this week. She’s Prada as a creator of rare brilliance. Part of STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 13 WWD.COM

that brilliance is that, without ever taking her eye tion that came to me quickly,” Phillips says. A two- off of the commercial reality, she has encouraged word phrase from the designer, “elusive beauty,” intellectual, artistic conversation about the mean- stuck with her, and Phillips wrote “a nonlinear ing and role of fashion, specifi cally its impact on narrative” for her fi lm. Quite organically, she the feminine psyche. She more than encourages draws on her circle of Los Angeles-based friends, the conversation; she forces it. so the fi nished product refl ects the work of sev- What these installations will highlight as well eral highly talented fi lm veterans. is what costume designers do for a living: How Phillips’ concept revolves around continu- clothes are used to defi ne or even create char- ous projection of the fi lm at the Feb. 20 event, acter, to help tell a story, whether in fi lm, on while the surrounding environment is “a total stage or in our own personal lives. Particularly experience, a living, breathing installation. fascinating is the way the same clothes can tell Transforming the store is super exciting.” different stories, depending upon what the user, Phillips fi nds a soulful element in Prada’s ex- whether major costume designer or one of us, quisite yet distressed fabrics, and notes Prada’s sees in them. observations on “how conflicted the relation- Prada presents no brief or mandate to her col- ship with beauty is.” To capture that, she creates laborators other than that the costume designers a “post-winter world” with an “almost futuristic “start from the collection” — the collection she feeling,” mesmerizing in its barrenness. “I’m not bills as a celebration of fabric craft for which she looking to make a huge statement. It’s more of a reproduced 30 brocades dating from the 19th cen- poem or a dream.” tury through the Sixties, and shows against the A fi ve-minute dream that plays like a mini backdrop of huge, bleak purple sand dunes. “And collaboration between T.S. Eliot and Cocteau. relate it to the movies. I had to push them to do Two distant fi gures approach each other, tra- things related to movies.” versing the arid plain of somewhere (in fact, She refuses to give specifi cs, reasoning that a dry lake bed east of Joshua Tree). The cam- it’s not one creative person’s place to take owner- era moves in on two young, wan-looking girls, ship of the artistic motivations of another. “I don’t both blue-eyed redheads, their complexions want to speak for them, because it’s their ideas. and clothes almost fading into bland terrain. I don’t want to [perhaps in error] say what they Whether lost on an island, lone survivors of don’t think, or to [confuse] what is the point. But global devastation or a single girl projecting a it’s a general impression that they loved the idea.” mirror image of herself for companionship is Prada shares her confi dence that her collabo- unclear. We know only that these two beautiful rators fi nd this project “completely different” creatures are together in their solitude. from their usual work: “It was beautiful for them, The surrealist mood comes via the languid a bigger passage.” pace, eerie music and colorful smoke tornados Wilkinson and Martin booked passage back that swirl in and out of a printed suitcase marked to the hedonistic days of the Seventies. Yet with a triballike insignia taken from the collec- Wilkinson maintains the path wasn’t that di- tion. Within the suitcase, the girls fi nd muted rect. “We’re huge fans of the great Italian fi lm- color; later, they imagine museumlike dioramas FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE makers and fi lms like ‘La Dolce Vita,’” he says, installed with fl ora-fauna still lifes, and a hand- “and those wonderful scenarios where it’s three bag or two. The coming of spring? Perhaps. “I WWD.com/ o’clock in the morning, everyone is exhausted wanted ambiguity,” Phillips says. She achieved it, retail-news. and they’re showing their true colors. exquisitely so. The mask has slipped.” If Wilkinson, Martin and Phillips Nevertheless, a Saturday after- focus on people, Canonero looks to noon visit to the fl oor they’ve over- the ancient categorizations of the taken at the Prada headquarters natural elements. She answers ques- on West 51st Street hustles pretty tions via e-mail. The concept came to overtly, fl aunting a Seventies party her because “as the four elements of mode in all its decadent, exuberant water, earth, fi re and air make a whole glory. Along with Wilkinson, Martin, world, so does Miuccia’s collection. It a woman at a sewing machine and a seemed to me to be a world in itself to handful of Prada staffers, the space be shown through the fi fth element: is populated by 51 white fi berglass Humanity. Man and Woman.” mannequins in various states of Bridget Foley’s In her fl amboyant manifestations, maquillage and undress, arranged “terra” is a sphere formed by two in party clusters — here, a pair of Diary models in an arched interlock; air, a “Whispering Girls” (read: gossips), wildly tressed girl, also on a swing, there, a trio in HotPants, their left and dressed in ephemeral white. Fire arms extended in stage-worthy drama. Though is a winged, stilettoed vampire about to have her topless and wigless, by tonight the trio, dubbed way with a sleeping male victim, and water, a “The Pointer Sisters,” will be fully decked in furs pale girl enveloped in what appears to be a cel- and costume jewelry and wigs — one each a bru- lophane sea. nette, blonde, redhead. (Charles LaPointe has cre- Asked how closely the store installation will ated 35 wild wigs for the event.) On one platform, resemble these photos, Canonero gives the com- an “Italian actress” lounges, lessening the weight mon-sense response of a pro. “I hope they’ll be of her 60-pound chain dress. very close,” she writes. “But the installation will As far as the beauty look, the eyes have not be in an open space like a fi lm set. It is set it, all glitter and late-night disco sparkle. obviously at the Prada shop on [Rue du Faubourg Wilkinson and Martin eschew the traditional Saint-Honoré].” materials in favor of just about anything else: Canonero notes an irony to Prada’s premise broken metal, mirror shards, Swarovski crys- of complete freedom. On one hand, she indi- tals. Those materials are repeated in manne- cates, such a project is easier than one with spe- quin body art, an endless train for the girl who cifi c parameters because of the freedom allowed. will swing from the rafters. Conversely, “when a project leaves a lot of cre- While the designing duo starts with Prada’s ative and artistic space…the challenge and dif- current collection, they use extra fabrics to cre- fi culty is always to fi nd the idea and concept to ate some of their own designs, also drawing from interpret and visualize any projects.” the Prada archives. The effect should be that of In providing others with such freedom, and a real party during the age of parties (as real as thus relinquishing her own control, Prada may a party gets when the most dished-about guests prove herself the ultimate iconoclast. Obviously, are static and glass-eyed). “We’re embracing much of the intent is to further the brand’s image that spirit of Studio 54, a wonderful juxtaposi- as one that’s bold and open to risk. But she also tion,” says Wilkinson. “You have these incredibly fuels something that today too often gets lost — wealthy, elite people wearing incredibly luxuri- the fashion conversation. ous clothes. Then the kid from downtown wearing One would be hard-pressed to fi nd someone shorts and roller skates.” who leaves a Prada show with the comment, The long stretch of wall that’s given over to “that was nice,” and then moves on. Prada invari- changing seasonal motifs will support fanciful ably gives us something more, fashion fodder for wallpaper developed in conjunction with the 2 thought, for serious consideration. She creates x 4 design consultancy, and people will be “walk- a dialogue with her professional audience and ing and sliding on the mirrored tile. We just gave with her customer. These Iconoclast installations into it and said, ‘let’s do it,’” Martin says. One should do the same. touch that will work its way through — lots of “I never wanted to control [the project],” she purple, very much of that Seventies moment, ac- says. “We do this kind of collaboration with other cording to Wilkinson. people because we’re interested in other people’s That color is the only creative connection to visions. I try to stay far away.” Phillips’ project, centering on a fi ve-minute fi lm Even while expressing the importance of the to which she adds a faint purple haze, inspired project’s creative freedom, she understands by Prada’s mountain of sand at her spring runway the creative inclination to converse. “Don’t for- In Paris: the earth moves, by Milena Canonero. show. “The fi rst thing that occurred to me was, I get,” Prada says. “The beauty of collaboration PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY need to create a fi lm. It was an organic inspira- is dialogue.” 2x5 (left)

14 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015

XXXXXX U.S. Challenges China’s Export Program {Continued from page one} cost to manufacture products in China services and subsidized training services The U.S. fi led a World Trade could potentially go up, she said. Xxx Xxx Xxx for your employees. All of these services Organization case targeting “If they are in fact benefi ting from sub- are provided for free or at a discount and China’s export subsidy program. stantial subsidies and if they lose those undermine fair competition. benefi ts, then presumably that will impact “In our view, this program violates the their [Chinese supplier] costs,” Trossevin Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx commitment China made when it joined said. “How big the impact is will vary a lot the WTO not to provide certain export from company to company. Not [all Chinese By KRISTI ELLIS subsidies,” Froman continued. “In doing manufacturers are] taking advantage of sub- so, it injures American workers and busi- sidies at the same level. The impact would WASHINGTON — Trade relations between the U.S. and nesses, really anyone who plays by the not be the same across the board.” China took a dramatically downward turn Wednesday. rules and wants to compete fairly on the Trossevin also said retailers could The U.S. fi led a World Trade Organization case merits of their hard work and the quality see an offset to any increase in costs in against China, targeting a broad export subsidy pro- of their products.” China if the Trans-Pacifi c Partnership gram and seven sectors, including apparel, textiles Froman said that is why the U.S. is chal- agreement is completed and implement- and footwear, and could have broad ramifi cations for lenging China’s export subsidy program ed. The U.S. is negotiating TPP with 11 the industry’s sourcing strategies. in the WTO. He noted that it is to “hold other countries, including Vietnam, the The U.S. is challenging China’s “Demonstration China, one of our most important trading second-largest apparel supplier to the Bases-Common Service Platform” export subsidy partners, to its word and do our utmost to U.S., behind China. program that American offi cials claimed provided $1 guarantee that the rights of Americans are “Retailers already diversify sourcing billion over a three-year period to suppliers, which

not subverted by unfair foreign giveaways LEE YIU TUNG/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES where they can and the opportunities then gave discounted or free services to Chinese man- that reduce fair competition and threaten in TPP will allow them to diversify even ufacturers that export in the sectors identifi ed. The jobs and wages here at home.” ship and it is imperative that our trade es will start to refl ect what is much more further and will mitigate the impact from value of subsidies provided per base varied depend- The Chinese embassy here did not representative enforces them.” of an accurate structure in terms of what a situation like this,” she said. “Also, ing on size, industry and location, but offi cials said respond to attempts to get a comment on A U.S. trade offi cial who spoke not it costs to produce textiles and apparel,” since it will take some time before this there is evidence that certain “base enterprises” have the action. for attribution in a briefi ng with report- he said. “That, of course, makes us more case plays out, it will give people time to received at least $635,000 worth of annual benefi ts. U.S. textile producers lauded the ac- ers after the news conference said U.S. competitive and allows us to hold on to do planning and adjusting.” Exports from the Demonstration Bases program tion, while apparel and footwear import- jobs are signifi cantly impacted by the market share, hold on to sales and pro- Stephen Lamar, executive vice comprise a “signifi cant portion of China’s global ex- ers and retailers said they would keep a Chinese subsidies. grams and, most importantly, hold on to president at the American Apparel & ports,” U.S. trade offi cials claimed. close eye on the case. “These hundreds of thousands of jobs our workforce to a much greater degree, Footwear Association, said it is too early In 2012, 16 of the estimated 40 “demonstration For the U.S. textile industry, which in furniture, in seafood and other aquacul- which is potentially a signifi cant benefi t to tell what the potential impact of such bases,” or clusters of companies, in the textile sector has lost hundreds of thousands of jobs in ture, in agriculture, as well as in light indus- for the U.S. economy.” a case might be. allegedly receiving subsidies accounted for 14 percent, the past decade to international compe- try and certainly in textiles are put at risk Importers were taking a wait-and-see “There is a process the WTO has…and or $33.25 billion, of China’s textile exports to the world, tition but has seen a mini-resurgence in by this kind of program in China,” he said. approach to the case. Most industry offi - this takes a period of time,” Lamar said. trade offi cials said at a news conference. The other six U.S. production tied to the Made in USA Auggie Tantillo, president and chief cials said they did not expect an immedi- “Hopefully it will lead to a resolution in sectors identifi ed by the U.S. as being subsidized by movement, the new enforcement action executive offi cer of the National Council ate impact on prices from China, but they a very predictable manner, but it’s too China’s program include advanced materials and met- was seen as a positive. of Textile Organizations, said the action could expect to see rising prices and a early to say.” als, light industry, specialty chemicals, medical prod- Rep. David Price (D., N.C.), represent- is a “validation of what we have claimed shift in sourcing if the case is successful. Julia Hughes, president of the U.S. ucts, hardware and building materials, and agriculture. ing a big textile-producing state, said at for many years — that China’s astound- Apparel and textile imports from the Fashion Industry Association, said, “I “China designates certain companies in these sec- the news conference that the state knows ing growth in the marketplace was, to a U.S. to China totaled $41.8 billion in 2014, don’t think anyone should panic about tors as being demonstration bases, which is contingent “fi rsthand the benefi ts and drawbacks of degree, artifi cial. according to U.S. government figures. this case raising prices in China, certain- on them exporting their products,” said U.S. Trade liberalized international trade.” “Certainly there are competitive sup- China has a 38.9 percent share of the ly in the short term. For anyone who may Representative Michael Froman. “Once designated, “We know that the textile and apparel pliers [in China], but you don’t go from a combined U.S. apparel and textile import feel concerned there is going to be an im- they are eligible for subsidized services provided by the industry in particular has been under- small portion of the U.S. market to nearly market. Footwear imports from China to pact on business tomorrow or even next ‘common services platform.’ So if you are a Chinese tex- mined by unfair foreign competition,” 50 percent [China’s share of the U.S. tex- the U.S. were $16.6 billion last year. year, that is not very likely because these tile fi rm designated as a demonstration base, you might Price said. “I’m convinced that American tile import market is 46 percent] in ba- Retailers and apparel brands have been cases tend to take time.” get subsidized IT services, subsidized product design workers and industry can compete with sically a dozen years without some help facing rising labor costs in China for several Hughes said China has already invest- anyone in the world if given an even play- along the way,” he added. years, forcing companies to shift some of ed in other parts of Asia, a process which SEE PAGE XX ing fi eld and a clear set of rules. That’s Tantillo said if the U.S. is successful their production to other Asian countries, might be “accelerated” if the WTO case why today’s action against China is impor- in the WTO, which could take years for such as Vietnam and Bangladesh; Central moves forward. tant to American industry, particularly the a resolution, the U.S. textile industry America, and back to the U.S. “One assumes as you would see here textile industry, which has suffered from will benefi t. A WTO case the U.S. fi led in Marguerite Trossevin, outside trade in the U.S. that when you take away a the lack of enforcement of international 2008 against China involving a $10 billion counsel to the Retail Industry Leaders subsidy program, you take away some standards over the years. While the WTO annual value-added tax-rebate program Association, said the WTO cases typically support for an industry and that may rules we are talking about here are limit- was settled in 2010 when Beijing agreed take several years to play out. If the U.S. have an impact on how much manufac- ed in scope, they do provide an important to end the program. is successful at the WTO and China elim- turing is done in China that is then ex- framework for our international relation- “In a best-case scenario, China’s pric- inates its export subsidy program, the ported to the U.S. market,” she added.

Pursuant to Bankruptcy Court Order, Eckhaus Latta Lands Deal With Nike iD the LVMH Prize — have been added of her brand’s interest in all assets of C. Wonder, LLC By MISTY WHITE SIDELL churning out a look that melds promoting individuality. utilitarianism, pansexuality, Eckhaus, a former sculpture NEW YORK — Fish-oil capsule streetwear and thrifted silhou- student who designed accessories must be sold!! pendants strung on rose gold, ettes into a unique, countercul- for Marc by Marc Jacobs for more stacked Air Jordans, riffs on ture aesthetic. Their overriding than two years before departing to th Timberlands, and fake orthodon- color palette could best be de- work on the label with Latta full Bid deadline March 9 !! tic braces donned in the time, said of his penchant name of jewelry. for the unconventional: These are the experi- Mike “I think at the end of the mental components that, Eckhaus day, neither of us has clas- at just seven seasons in, and Zoe sical ideas of prettiness; are helping emerging Latta they are never things that New York ready-to-wear interest us so much.” brand Eckhaus Latta fi nd The label has been its stride — particularly staging its shows and in the accessories realm. presentations with a The brainchild of former full accessories story Rhode Island School of from the beginning, Design classmates Mike from jewelry (which is Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, often produced in part- the label has established nership with Latta’s a fringe, underground fol- father), to shoes and lowing — due in part to its random art pieces like ability to express a brand Eckhaus Latta-scented For more informati on, contact: story through shoes, jewelry and scribed as Band-Aid-inspired. deodorant. “For us, it’s about miscellaneous art-piece acces- “In essence, we approach the creating a world, and the idea Stephen Marott a at (212) 818-1118 orsmarott [email protected]; sories. Their efforts have landed brand as two fi ne art students,” of us making clothing and then B. Lee Fletcher at (212) 818-1555 or blfl [email protected]; the duo a partnership with Nike said Latta, a former textile de- not having shoes, it was like, iD, which will be unveiled at their sign student who operates her ‘How could that happen? You Or runway show Monday. own textile-consulting firm don’t walk around barefoot,’ ” Brian Ryniker at (212) 790-5899 or [email protected] For the past several sea- on the side. “We really don’t Eckhaus said of the label’s all- sons, Eckhaus and Latta — who want ‘a girl,’ we don’t want to hands-in approach. He conced-

just filed an application for tell people who they are,” she ed, though, “Yes, we’ve shown ERICKSEN KYLE IMAGES; SHOES BY FERNANDA CALFAT/GETTY PHOTO BY 2x5 (left)

WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 15 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD PINTEREST AND APPLE TEAM UP: Apple platform will serve as a dashboard for NICKY HILTON’S NEW BAG: Nicky Hilton capsule collection for TSE as well as a will debut its first boards on Pinterest real-time app goings-ons during all of is going back to her roots for her screening for her filmmaker husband today, a two-fold partnership that also the fashion weeks in New York, London, latest fashion venture, a fall capsule Matthew Vaughn’s flick “Kingsman: The marks the latest iteration of the Rich Milan and Paris. The App Store’s collaboration with L.A.-based Secret Service.” Far from his plus-one, Pin, or pins that include information Pinterest page will feature content from handbag line Linea Pelle called Schiffer advised about the feature’s like real-time pricing of a product, Farfetch Discover, Snapchat, ASAP54, NH Nicky Hilton x Linea Pelle. “I wardrobe, set design and hair and where to buy something or maps, Lyst, Spring and PHHHOTO that will be started designing bags when I was makeup, as she has with his other addresses and phone numbers. The updated for the duration of the Fashion 18 for Samantha Thavasa,” said films. This time around, Vaughn has introduction of the new App Pin is the Weeks, and infl uencers like Olivia Palermo Hilton, whose latest apparel design collaborated with Mr Porter so that social platform’s most actionable to date, and Cara Delevingne will share their go-to venture was a capsule for Eluxe movie fans can buy the Savile Row- Malorie Lucich, Pinterest head of product apps during the show season. The App last year. “Bags are a huge passion made suits and customized Bremont communications, told WWD. Store’s social media team has also tapped of mine.” “Nicky seemed natural watches the cast sports. (The $18,260 Intended to help people discover iPhone photographers Katja and Mal to form a collaboration with since timepieces have already sold out, iOS apps, there is an “install” button Sherlock to share their work on Pinterest, she is an independent woman and according to Schiffer.) right on the pin, allowing the user to and designer Valentina Kova will tell the Designers Mike Eckhaus and entrepreneur. She’s not afraid to She is hoping for a similar response download the app without prompting story of her collection via pin, with the Zoe Latta are hitting their stride take fashion risks and mix high and to Claudia Schiffer for TSE, which will them to visit the App store. “A product help of iPhone photographer Meagan with experimental apparel and low, like wearing Hermès and H&M,” also be shown next month in Paris at pin is actionable, but it takes a few Cignoli and visual storytelling app accessories. said Linea Pelle creative La Galerie Particulière. clicks to get to the site, but on an App Steller. — RACHEL STRUGATZ director Donna Katz Basso. FOR MORE During a walk-through Pin you can start the download and A Nike sneaker. The 10-piece leather SCOOPS, SEE Monday with TSE creative completely install an app right from BOTKIER MEETS BELLA: Move over, Gigi. and calf hair collection, director Tina Lutz, the the pin,” she said, adding that although Botkier New York has tapped the Sports Eckhaus Latta will introduce a wholesaling from $44 for a WWD.com. supermodel enthused about users have been pinning apps for some Illustrated model’s younger sister, Bella partnership with Nike iD at its zip clutch to $190 for a large the cashmere fi shermen’s time — media, fashion, retail and Hadid as the face of the brand’s spring runway show on Monday. tote, comes in black, bone sweaters, boyfriend health lead the pack — 2015 campaign. “Bella and leopard print color cardigans and capes. there has never been a Bella Hadid truly encompasses the A pill bottle and jewelry. ways and each piece With three children quantifi able way to drive in ad for spirit of our brand — is named after one of between the ages of four traffi c to app developers Botkier she is the Botkier New The label is often inspired by medical Hilton’s favorite hotels, and 12 enrolled in school and help get their New York. York girl,” said designer supplies — a theme that carries over such as Chateau, Plaza near her Suffolk county apps get discovered by Monica Botkier. “She is to its jewelry designs. and Claridges. home, the supermodel Pinterest’s audience that street smart, chic Hilton will be at the commutes in and out of which, according to woman who is both Varied hiking boots. ENK trade show in Las London as needed for ComScore is more than edgy and sophisticated Vegas on Feb. 18 as well work, but she has found 70 million visits a month. in an understated way. Past footwear designs by the as Coterie in New York “you can be very creative Lucich noted that to She makes every look Eckhaus Latta duo. on Feb. 24 to hawk her and get inspired away date, there are more her own in a striking wares. “I love going to from the hectic London than 30 billion pins on yet simple way.” The trade shows. A lot of lifestyle.” Aside from Pinterest that live on campaign was shot in

people in my position ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY Claudia Schiffer their appreciation for upward of 750 million New York’s Chelsea don’t; they just slap their fi ne cashmere and a boards with 75 percent neighborhood by Simon name on something,” said Hilton, 31, shared German heritage, Lutz, too, of overall usage coming Cave, and depicts Hadid who also learned from her mother has a pastoral primary address — in from mobile. She said carrying a Botkier Kathy, who has sold her own handbag her case, in Rhode Island where her that technology-related New York handbag line at Accessories The Show in Vegas. own son and husband live year-round. pins have increased against the New York “My mother always said, ‘If you are “So the collection is for working moms 181 percent since 2012. skyline. “The mood for not going to wear it, then don’t put who don’t want to think about it, but While she wouldn’t necessarily put apps this season is youthful, fresh and full your name on it.’” Hilton is also busy want to look quite chic and effortless. in this group, it’s a sign that the category of life,” Botkier said of the campaign planning her summer London wedding It’s more of that jeans’ elegance of is gaining steam. aesthetic. “Bella brings her own sense to banker James Rothschild, prepping I’ve-got-to-do-a-school-run-as-well. As for Apple’s presence on the of style and savvy look to the brand. for the launch of a cosmetics line You want to look chic but everything discovery platform, the App Store’s She is the girl running around the in March, and another accessories has to go quite fast because there’s a Pinterest boards will showcase top city in jeans and a T-shirt that looks collaboration and campaign for lot going on. You may be going to work app picks, guest pinners, infl uencer effortlessly put together.” The campaign Sephora that’s still under wraps. afterwards,” Schiffer said. favorites and seasonally themed boards, will focus on digital platforms, with two — MARCY MEDINA Schiffer said she will soon start starting with New York Fashion Week. network partnerships: RocketFuel and working on her second collaboration It’s a good time for Apple to start, Xaxis Media. Both platforms enable Le Monde Editors Push Back Against Pierre Bergé SCHIFFER’S ABSTRACT ART: In New York with TSE, an alliance that she hopes considering more than fi ve million purchasing of ad space in real time to for a 72-hour spin, Claudia Schiffer was will be extended. fashion pins get pinned everyday. target specific consumers. They say the businessman, who’s a shareholder, is trying to infl u- doing double duty, debuting her first — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG According to the company, the — LAUREN MCCARTHY ence their reporting on the affair dubbed Swiss Leaks.

collections barefoot, but there was a The clogs recall the label’s continued logic to that.” interest in using medical-grade supplies On the accessories docket for fall, and colors as inspiration. Pills, in partic- Eckhaus and Latta have teamed with ular, have formed an aesthetic baseline Nike to create an “inspired” assortment for the brand’s range of semifi ne jewelry. of basketball sneakers, using the active- Capsules carved in jade or fashioned of wear giant’s customizable iD program to Lucite and suspended on rose gold chains For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. produce a portion of its runway shoes. The come packaged in branded prescription label is among a small grouping bottles. Eckhaus ear- of emerging designers to be Eckhaus Latta will introduce nestly admitted of his chosen for the Nike pro- a partnership with design process: “It’s Check out gram’s inaugural sea- Nike iD at its important to me to re- son. Fellow emerging runway show member that I’m not our the new DIGITAL American brands Baja on Monday. customer. I’m not the East and John Elliott person who could afford version of are also participating. our clothing.” PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS In addition to While the bicoastal Full service shop to the trade. the sneakers, duo declined to re- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 The there will be a veal sales volume, they premier heeled clog in said sell-through rates at pastel shades and stockists such as Opening destination pony hair fabrications. Ceremony and Maryam for the fashion While samples still had not Nassirzadeh are “really high.” arrived from the label’s Spanish This season they will travel to industry’s Real Estate, manufacturer during a recent stu- Paris for their fi rst go at market Business Opportunities, dio visit, a digital rendering showed week in the French capital. the styles — designed in two heel Latta expressed interest in tak- and Help Wanted listings. heights — appearing something like an ing on an investor, but said she and inclined Dansko clog. Eckhaus are looking to do it in a “smart POST YOUR LISTINGS ONLINE NOW! Aligning with the brand’s emphasis way.” She summed up their intentions FASHIONCAREERS.MARKET.ADICIO.COM on gender “fl uidity,” the clogs will be pro- for the season and beyond: “We are duced for men and women. “Ever since defi nitely a fashion company, but not the beginning, there has always been this in a way that I can explain another one overlap between genders, especially with that’s like us. We are not defi ant to the the footwear. It’s the same style but for structures or constructs of fashion, but both sexes — we just size it accordingly,” more interested in engaging in a con-

PHOTO BY FERNANDA CALFAT/GETTY IMAGES; SHOES BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE IMAGES; SHOES BY FERNANDA CALFAT/GETTY PHOTO BY Eckhaus said. versation about how they function.”

PLUS Supreme’s former creative Style Slam Dunk director, Brendon Babenzien, A look at the most fashion-forward guys at strikes out on his own NBA’s All-Star Weekend. Page MW8 with Noah. Page MW2

February 12, 2015

Club Kids

With the New York men’s shows already in motion, Public School’s designers, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, are gearing up for their show on Sunday by channeling the Nineties downtown club scene in Manhattan. “Hip-hop helped to transition the dominant house scene into a new format that combined fashion and dance into a subculture based on movement and reappropriation,” they said. For more designer inspirations, see pages MW„ and MW . MW2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 Men’s Week Former Supreme Designer Launching Label by RACHEL STRUGATZ jeans, a rugby shirt from a “real consumer — likely in his late 20s taking a superluxe Loro Piana wa- rugby brand” and a vintage, royal- to early 40s — while at the same terproof fabric that would typically BRENDON BABENZIEN wants blue suede jacket. time forging a real connection be used for a trenchcoat or overcoat to be there when skater kids grow Supreme is famously press-shy with this new, more informed and using it to construct a water- up and start to get a taste for high- and doesn’t follow any traditional shopper. Eighteen-year-old kids proof running jacket. Fabrics in- end duds. fashion calendars, and Noah is and 45-year-old men are listen- tended for double-faced camel hair The longtime creative director being launched with some of the ing to the same music and reading coats will be used to make hoodies. of Supreme left the 20-year-old cult same elusiveness. But if that atti- the same magazines, and Noah is Cashpad, a down replacement made brand a few weeks ago and is in the tude works as well for Babenzien being positioned to speak to both from cashmere that is manufactured midst of creating a ready-to-wear as it has for the streetwear label, ends of the spectrum. in Italy, will be key in outerwear. collection for Noah, a brand he is Noah should be a hit with men The inaugural fall collection Casual drawstring pants might look launching for fall with an e-com- who grew up with labels like will hit Babenzien’s site and store like sweatpants, but they won’t be. merce site and a store in New York. Stüssy and Supreme and are look- in the fall, speaking to his “buy- There will also be water-re- Babenzien dabbled with Noah ing to move on. now-wear-now” philosophy. He sistant corduroy running shorts about a decade ago, but ultimate- “Twenty years ago, skateboard- doesn’t want consumers to be tired — what the designer described as ly returned to Supreme, where ers were outcasts and football and bored of the apparel by the “really beautiful, plush shorts, ex- he started working in the late players were cool. Now [the skate- time it hits the stores, one of the cept corduroy is a little warmer, Nineties and which he returned to boarders are] at the top of the food downsides of the increasingly hy- a little more comfortable and a in 2006 after a short hiatus. chain,” Babenzien said. “They per-digital world. littler nicer. To me, it’s a running Now his focus is on Noah. He Brendon aren’t being addressed very well. If “I like surprises,” he said. short, but I’d probably wear it in is in the process of raising $2 mil- Babenzien you want to spend a ton of money, “People can see it a week before it the summer after a surf in the eve- lion to build the brand and is seri- you can buy great clothes. But can comes out as opposed to, ‘I’ve been ning when the sun is going down.” PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY ous about putting together the right you balance that with an under- looking at it for six months already.’ Jackets will have an opening team to make a mark in the men’s cool brands, you aren’t in five standing of what’s happening so- I want that fun element to reign.” price point of $400 but most will wear market, targeting the grown- years going to start wearing a suit cially at the moment and what kind While Noah’s design sensibil- range from $800 to $1,200. Tops up version of the Supreme customer. and tie. They aren’t just gonna get of music people are listening to?” ity is classic, Babenzien is focusing and bottoms will start at $180, “If you’re a 20-year-old kid stodgy overnight,” said the 43-year- Babenzien hopes to address primarily on fabrics, using them in “sweatpants” from $180 to $380 and today who buys any number of old Babenzien, dressed in ripped all of these things at once for this atypical ways. For example, he is T-shirts will retail for about $48.

Rob Garcia to Unveil Own Brand by JEAN E. PALMIERI thetic” that blends the streetwear expected to feature 15 to 17 looks. references he honed earlier in his Garcia, whose father was a pro- ROB GARCIA is branching out on career with more high-end infl u- fessional skateboarder, began his ca- his own. ences. “The line is based on foun- reer in streetwear working at several A former partner at buzzy brand dation basics,” he said. “I’m into California-based brands including En Noir, Garcia will introduce classic men’s wear silhouettes in Black Scale, before creating En Noir. his own collection on Wednesday , superior materials. We’re not trying He was presented with the Best New during New York Fashion Week. to recreate the wheel.” Menswear Designer award by GQ Garcia, who parted ways with En As such, the inaugural collec- last year and created a capsule col- Noir over business differences, has tion will include a biker jacket, lection for the Gap as well. spent the past month working in bomber, double-breasted coats with He said the Rob Garcia line is Paris on his own label. “It was re- a “military vibe,” denim and eve- being fi nanced by several investors ally a natural progression,” he said, ningwear, he said. Although Garcia who will focus on the business end Looks from noting that the Rob Garcia collec- expects to have completed around of the brand while he concentrates Rob Garcia’s line. tion will showcase an “evolving aes- 50 pieces by showtime, his show is on the design.

Man of J. Crew and Lacoste THE WEEK SAM SMITH: A

Team for Shirt Line The slight rockabilly pompadour The silver cross earring is accentuates his jawline and works very reminiscent of another J. CREW has tapped Lacoste for 10 years, beginning when it was well with his angular eyebrows. But British pop icon, George a line of exclusive polo shirts that swimming on me as a girl to when I watch out for the hairline. Michael. It looks great. will hit stores next week. had completely grown out of it. We The J. Crew x Lacoste shirts for love the history and timelessness.” men, women, children and babies Were he and Boy George He’s obviously been will be available in more than 30 J. separated at birth? watching too much Crew stores in the U.S. as well as Downton Abbey. He’s online beginning Feb. 18. Jenna not in full white tie, as he would need a white vest Lyons, Crew’s creative direc- The silk contrasting peak lapel and tails, but the white- tor and president, and Frank enhances the evening dress code on-white combo lights up Muytjens, head of men’s and works well with the wingtip his face and blue eyes. design, selected the collar of the shirt. brand as part of the retailer’s “Looks We The elongated, narrow Love” section. Lacoste sleeve and shirt cuˆ help reached back into its ar- slenderize his silhouette chives from 1983 to create a The British crooner, who and add a touch special version of its logo for of modernity. the shirts, which feature a croco- racked up four awards at dile of a different color. “I’ve always been attracted the Grammys on Sunday, The subtle carrot-cut of to the rich history of Lacoste, es- mentioned in one of his the pants continues to pecially its vintage polo shirts,” play with the modern explained Muytjens, who said acceptance speeches that feeling of the look. They he “loves” wearing his archival also fi t him just right. Lacoste shirts. “We used them the moment he started as our starting point, preserving details like a notched hem and a believing in himself and his throwback crocodile logo but with a A J. Crew x Lacoste polo shirt. choices, his music became The chunky patent slimmer fi t. They let us go through leather shoes deviate their archives to bring back an old a hit. The same can be said from formalwear crocodile, which is blue, not green. of his sartorial ensembles on tradition, but we’re It’s a nice throwback.” not going to rain on Jenny Cooper, head of Crewcuts The shirts will be available in the red carpet that night. the lovefest parade. design, added that “the fabric… white, navy, burgundy and orange, just gets better with age. I had a and will retail from $55 to $98.

Lacoste shirt that I wore for almost — J.E.P. JASON MERRITT/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES NTA-15-0656-ADV-ADV WWD 2/12 ISSUE AD.indd 1 2/3/15 12:24 PM MW4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 Men’s Week

“Traveling in the U.K., exploring for new inspiration.” — Hiroki Nakamura, Visvim “We challenged ourselves to refresh the idea of wearing a uniform, using cutting- edge fabrics and applying innovative “William Merritt construction “Tomorrow.” Chase.” techniques.” — Daniel Silver and Steven Cox, — Alex, Matthew and — Porsche Design Duckie Brown Samantha Orley, Orley

“Inspired by the greatest daily theater in London and New York: the morning commute.” — Liam and Sammy Fayed, Bespoken

“All about the outdoors.” Designer — Michael Anderson, vice “Texture.” president of men’s design, — Frank Muytjens, Inspırations Banana Republic head of men’s design, J. Crew

As the men’s wear industry gears up for the last leg of shows, “My designs this season leverage gentrification, texture, purity and thoughts of tomorrow are the power of texture and just a few of the ideas that characterize NYFW designers’ shape to appear LUIS CAMPUZANO subtly different collections. — Compiled by depending on the viewing angle. I love the idea of playing with perception.” — Carlos Campos

“The fall/winter 2015 collection represents the cold, gray feel of San Francisco, the city where “Each season W.R.K is inspired I was born. With reference to by a different occupation: not “I was inspired by the the Pacifi c Ocean and skating specifi cally by the task at hand proportions and stripped- through the damp city streets, I “Stoic colors and sharper, more but by the man behind it.” “A relaxed mood.” down styling of workwear.” want this collection to feel like tailored shapes.” — Matteo Gottardi, W.R.K — Shimon and Ariel — Michael Maccari, Perry Ellis fog-soaked concrete.” — Kerby Jean-Raymond, Pyer Moss Ovadia, Ovadia & Sons — John Elliott, John Elliott + Co SKINGRAFT PHOTO BY WONG SIM FOR SKINGRAFT; N. HOOLYWOOD BY “VAIL TRIUMPH OF A DREAM”/COURTESY OF N.HOOLYWOOD; WEILAND COURTESY OF ALAN ECKSTEIN; GILDED AGE BY “ON THE WATERFRONT”/COLUMBIA PICTURES/SONY PICTURES ENTERTAINMENT; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER ALL OTHERS COURTESY PICTURES/SONY PICTURES ENTERTAINMENT; “ON OFTHE ALANWATERFRONT”/COLUMBIA WEILAND ECKSTEIN; GILDED AGE BY COURTESY OF N.HOOLYWOOD; TRIUMPH OF A DREAM”/COURTESY “VAIL BY N. HOOLYWOOD WONG SIM FOR SKINGRAFT; SKINGRAFT PHOTO BY Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 MW5

“Gentrifi cation.” “Today’s cultural nomad — a sophisticated, — Siki Im curious man.” — Carlos Garciavelez, GarciaVelez

“Cold fusion.” — Donna Karan, DKNY Men

FOR MORE, SEE WWD.com/ menswear-news.

“I am interested in the style of Aldo Nadi and his fellow fencers of the 1920 Antwerp Olympics.” — Robert Geller

“In watching Brando’s masterpiece of urban poetry ‘On the Waterfront’ [1954], a raggedly emotional tale of individual failure “The Eidos autumn/winter ’15 collection was and social contrasts, we didn’t miss the realism of old, but do love inspired by the liberation of Naples in 1943 as Brando’s youthful energy and style, and the city’s cinematic dark, seen through the eyes of photographer and war light and shadowed streetscape depicted in the movie.” correspondent Robert Capa.” — Stefan Miljanic, Gilded Age — Antonio K. Ciongoli, creative director, Eidos

“A surreal trek through the Peruvian mountains.” — Jonny Cota, SkinGraft

“Texture.” — Frank Muytjens, head of men’s design, J. Crew “Abyssopelagic: adj; pertaining to sea water at a depth of 4,000 meters and beyond, or an intimate expression of the working man’s wardrobe, inspired by the still sound, fragile life-forms and hypnotic “The pioneering spirit.” “Derek Ridgers” undercurrents of the deep blue sea.” — Daisuke Obana, N.Hoolywood — Tim Coppens — Ryu Hayama, Fingers Crossed

“The fall/ “I was inspired winter 2015 by Hollywood’s collection glorifi cation of is inspired the American by the early West during days of the 19th American century and aviation, how it was including adapted for military the screen details during that and the era. This photography collection is of Willi a polished, Ruge.” buttoned- — David Hart, up vision of creative that, with director, “We really enjoyed taking a some nods to Hickey portion of the collection and real Western Freeman developing pieces from their workwear, Sportswear roots. We start at the growing level authentic of the design process, alongside 19th-century “The Timo team was inspired by the cotton growers and fi nishers, to prints and ‘Beat Generation’ and ‘snapshots produce beautifully pure, hand- stylized from road trips.’ Robert Frank’s ‘The knit sweaters. Not everything can Western Americans’ was central to this — his be approached with that sort of prints from photos from the Fifties that spanned attachment, but the pieces we the 1960s.” the spectrum of Americans between were able to create using that “Purity, logic and — David rich and poor, city and nature.” farm-to-garment approach were mathematical order.” Hart — Timo Weiland, Alan Eckstein and super inspiring.” — Billy Reid — Todd Snyder Donna Yang, Timo Weiland Men’s SKINGRAFT PHOTO BY WONG SIM FOR SKINGRAFT; N. HOOLYWOOD BY “VAIL TRIUMPH OF A DREAM”/COURTESY OF N.HOOLYWOOD; WEILAND COURTESY OF ALAN ECKSTEIN; GILDED AGE BY “ON THE WATERFRONT”/COLUMBIA PICTURES/SONY PICTURES ENTERTAINMENT; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER ALL OTHERS COURTESY PICTURES/SONY PICTURES ENTERTAINMENT; “ON OFTHE ALANWATERFRONT”/COLUMBIA WEILAND ECKSTEIN; GILDED AGE BY COURTESY OF N.HOOLYWOOD; TRIUMPH OF A DREAM”/COURTESY “VAIL BY N. HOOLYWOOD WONG SIM FOR SKINGRAFT; SKINGRAFT PHOTO BY MW6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 Men’s Week EURO NEWS As New York Fashion Week begins, here are the leading trends from the European runways shaping the fall season so far. — ALEX BADIA

GRAPHIC KNITS

Salvatore Giorgio Valentino MSGM Kenzo Cerruti Ferragamo Armani

RETRO SEVENTIES

Maison J.W. Topman No.21 Margiela Anderson Lanvin Jil Sander

VOLUME PANTS

Calvin Klein Ami Balmain Collection Dunhill E. Tautz Ports 1961 CERRUTI PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; GIORGIO ARMANI, MSGM, BOTTEGA VENETA, GUCCI, MISSONI AND CALVIN KLEIN BY DAVIDE MAESTRI; DAVIDE KLEIN BY GUCCI, MISSONI DOMINIQUE MAITRE;AND CALVIN GIORGIO ARMANI, MSGM, BOTTEGACERRUTI PHOTO BY VENETA, GIANNONI GIOVANNI ALL OTHERS BY PHOTOS COURTESY; BALENCIAGA, BALMAIN AND PORTS CARVEN, TODD LYNN, LOEWE, Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 MW7

MASCULINITY VERSUS FEMININITY

Loewe

Saint Laurent Todd Lynn Rick Owens Raf Simons Gucci

GREEN SHADES

Bottega Craig Ann Umit Ermenegildo Berluti Veneta Green Demeulemeester Benan Zegna

STATEMENT COATS

Balenciaga Carven

Dries Van Dior Louis Noten Homme Vuitton Missoni CERRUTI PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; GIORGIO ARMANI, MSGM, BOTTEGA VENETA, GUCCI, MISSONI AND CALVIN KLEIN BY DAVIDE MAESTRI; DAVIDE KLEIN BY GUCCI, MISSONI DOMINIQUE MAITRE;AND CALVIN GIORGIO ARMANI, MSGM, BOTTEGACERRUTI PHOTO BY VENETA, GIANNONI GIOVANNI ALL OTHERS BY PHOTOS COURTESY; BALENCIAGA, BALMAIN AND PORTS CARVEN, TODD LYNN, LOEWE, MW8 WWD thursday, february 12, 2015 Men’s Week NBA’s All-Star Style Setters FASHION AND SPORTS are colliding, with Star All-Style presented by Samsung Galaxy Ermenegildo Zegna is hosting a dinner with Hotel in Times Square for its special NBA New York Fashion Week and the NBA All- will include a runway show with players, Carmelo Anthony, who will be decked out in All-Star jacket and other merchandise; Star Game both setting the city abuzz. models and style setters including James the line’s Couture collection at both the din- Barneys will be hosting a cocktail party with Retailers and manufacturers are lin- Harden, Klay Thompson, Chandler Parsons, ner as well as in Bergdorf Goodman’s new- Russell Westbrook on Friday to celebrate his ing up to associate themselves with the DeMarcus Cousins and Zach LaVine. The est incarnation of its Goodman ad campaign, “achievements in basketball and fashion,” style stars who will hit the court at Madison show will be broadcast on Saturday at 6:30 launching next week. and Nike is bringing James Harden, Anthony Square Garden on Sunday night. From sit- p.m. on TNT. Express will introduce its new men’s Davis, Kevin Durant and other players to its down interviews with fashion directors to Bloomingdale’s is bringing Harden to wear ambassador Stephen Curry of the store and other venues around town for the intimate dinners for special guests, the fash- the store tonight to visit with shoppers Golden State Warriors in an event Friday next three days. ion industry is embracing the big game and in a special pop-up shop filled with NBA night that will also feature a live perfor- Many of the players who will be participat- its well-dressed players. merchandise, while Saks Fifth Avenue’s mance by Ludacris. ing in the game are stars both on and off the Perhaps the biggest event of the week- men’s fashion director, Eric Jennings, is sit- Made Fashion Week will bring Anthony court because of their unique sense of style. end is a fashion show produced by LeBron ting down with Brooklyn Nets point guard to its fashion stage on Saturday for a show- Here is WWD’s look at the NBA style all-stars. James of the Cleveland Cavaliers in collabo- Jarrett Jack and former NBA player Kevin case on wearable technology; Starter has — ALEX BADIA and ration with Turner Sports and IMG. NBA All- Willis, for a special chat about sneaker style. installed a pop-up shop at the Paramount JEAN E. PALMIERI ; S e AG m i rown/Getty b . m

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collaboration with Nike has ease comes naturally to Durant. Griffin is a fashion star in the ry

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DAMIAN LILLARD JOHN WALL n

LEBRON JAMES In the case of Lillard, there is To witness the style evolution of a h AS /Corbi

The godfather of NBA fashion has no fear and more is more. From DWYANE WADE young player is always an interesting S

a great editorial eye and shows bright red three-piece suits to Wade’s confidence and risk-taking process. In the past, Wall’s choices RUSSELL WESTBROOK ew nti/Spl n A a big range, wearing everything retro Fifties tailoring, he obviously clearly define his fashion choices. have been correct but very by the The ultimate fashion darling, h from perfectly fitting suits to sleek likes to have fun with fashion, His own personal style always book. But lately, he has widened his Westbrook integrates the latest AS Spl / sportswear without compromising loves to dress up and he always shines through, and his creative range by opting for more-modern streetwear trends with luxe ath- r J his street cred. Let’s not forget he seems to pull it off. He plays a bit black-tie ensembles are consistent. outfits that include elegant color leisure and more traditional f by has been doing this for a while and dangerously, but that makes him Of course, being married to a pairings and a more relaxed heritage men’s wear staples. He has S me has great access to the best clothes. even more of a style plate. Hollywood actress doesn’t hurt. attitude. We want to see more. graduated to fashionista territory. A J Anthony photo by S Anthony photo by WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW SECTION II

Dress Code The fall aesthetic at the Las Vegas shows is getting increasingly less casual. Although the ath-leisure phenomenon continues to permeate the market, a return to a more traditional elegance is beginning to emerge. ; DASH STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE, VERNON STYLED BY ALEX BADIA ANTONIA SARDONE, VERNON STYLED BY ; DASH STYLED BY

■ Things to Know

On Her: Buffalo David Bitton’s (Project) polyester, nylon and spandex quilted at the Shows coat with wool and synthetic sleeves and ■ French Connection’s (Project) polyester New Faces in Vegas sequin top and polyester, viscose and elastane coated skirt. ■ On Him: Willy Chavarria’s (Liberty) Fun Things Japanese wool coat and pants and Massimo Alba’s (Capsule) wool blazer. for Downtime

PHOTO BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ MODELS: MARIA DASH AT WOMAN 360 AND AARON VERNON AT WILHELMINA WOMAN 360 AND AARON VERNON AT MODELS: MARIA DASH AT 2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

“Razzle Dazzle” from “Chicago” performed WWD LAS VEGAS PREVIEW in Steve Wynn’s “Showstoppers.” fl ooring, a brass pipe bar and a sidewalk café over- looking Aria’s second-fl oor promenade. Open for dinner daily and brunch on the weekends, Bardot Brasserie serves a range of traditional French Scene fare, such as wood-grilled Lots to do when taking a break from duck à l’orange with sauce show-hopping. By Rebecca Dancer Maltaise ($13) or escargots Bardot with hazelnuts, char- treuse butter and puff pastry for starters ($17). Pair these with a glass of wine — Bardot claims to have the largest se- lection of French wines in Las Vegas — or maybe a signature cocktail, such as the Voltaire, a mix of cider, baked apple bitters and house-made ginger syrup ($15). Standout entrées include Parisian gnocchi with wild mushrooms, goat cheese and roasted garlic ($23), or Le Steakburger, made of prime rib, comté cheese, garlic aioli and bordelaise onions ($24). For dessert, try a chocolate macaroon ($12).

Bardot Brasserie Aria Resort & Casino SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY With a fl oor-to-ceiling color- ARTY PARTY a two-person confession- 3730 Las Vegas Boulevard Fried chicken and waffles has changing “vortex” light fi xture Upping the level of culture on al booth one at a time to Hours: Dinner: 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. made its way onto the Strip behind the bar, power outlets at the Strip is the Cosmopolitan’s chat with the artist, who is daily; Brunch: Saturday and with the January opening of every seat and TV-lined private P3 Studio, an intimate venue dressed as Santa, while on- Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, booths, 3535 is more of a high- on the hotel’s third floor lookers eavesdrop. Happy Hour: 5 p.m. located inside the Venetian. tech hideout, with an equally showcasing contemporary A total of 14 artists will ro- to 7 p.m. nightly From restaurant group 50 inventive cocktail menu. art installations. Foregoing tate through P3 Studio in 2015. Tel.: 702-590-7111 Eggs Inc., the 8,000-square-foot Bacon-infused bourbon, the traditional formality of a Web: aria.com/dining/restaurants/ eatery is an offshoot of the mint Oreo-infused vodka, museum, guests at P3 Studio P3 Studio bardotbrasserie Miami Beach original. Inside, wasabi ginger-infused gin can watch artists at work or The Cosmopolitan rustic accents like reclaimed and nutella-infused tequila participate in interactive 3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South CURTAIN CALL wood paneling, whitewashed top 3535’s list of interesting exhibitions, making art more Tel.: 702-698-7000 In “Showstoppers,” Steve brick and an Edison bulb chan- concoctions, which are avail- approachable and designed to Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, Wynn revives his personal delier make the 180-seat dining able in shot form for $7, or, attract a new audience. 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Broadway favorites with help room a casual and cozy space. for the more skeptical sipper, For 2015, P3 Studio has Web: cosmopolitanlasvegas.com/ from a 35-person cast of sing- On the “Table” end in a tasting fl ight of three for partnered with New York’s experience/art.aspx ers and dancers, elaborate of things, executive chef costuming and an on-stage 31- Todd Harrington serves up piece orchestra. Southern classics with a spin, The dining room at Bardot Brasserie inside Aria. Chicken and waffl es at Yardbird Southern Table & Bar. The casino magnate’s in- such as chicken with water- spiration for the produc- melon and waffl es with honey tion was the $5 million 50th hot sauce and bourbon maple birthday party he threw for syrup ($36), or the 18 oz. his wife, Andrea, last March, smoked tomahawk pork chop which reignited his passion with roasted heirloom pota- for musical theater. His new toes and kale pesto ($55). 90-minute spectacle inside There is nothing classic the Encore Theater features about the libations list, which performances of 18 songs features craft cocktail ice in a from more than 10 musi- variety of shapes and flavors, all cals, including classics such cut from an in-house ice room. as “One” from “A Chorus For the Yardbird Old Fashioned Line,” “Willkommen” from ($15), mixologist Robert P3 Studio at the Cosmopolitan. 3535 bar inside The Linq. “Cabaret,” “Sit Down, You’re Ortenzio drops a two-inch ice Rocking The Boat” from sphere into his concoction of “Guys and Dolls” and “Razzle bacon-infused bourbon, orange Dazzle” from “Chicago.” bitters and maple syrup. Or try Behind the scenes are the Porkchop ($14), a mixture of director Philip William bourbon, dijon syrup, yuzu juice McKinley, most recently and apple cider garnished with with “Spiderman: Turn off a dijon-thyme ice cube. the Dark,” three-time Emmy Award-winning choreographer Yardbird Southern Table & Bar Marguerite Derricks and cos- The Venetian tume designer Suzy Benzinger, 3355 South Las Vegas Boulevard head costumer for Woody Tel: 702-297-6541 Allen’s fi lm “Blue Jasmine.” Hours: Monday to Thursday, $14. The infusions can also be Art Production Fund on an PARISIAN PANACHE Performances run Tuesdays 4 p.m. to midnight; Friday and mixed into creative cocktails, artist-in-residence program, Chef Michael Mina through Saturdays at 7:30 p.m., Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.; such as the Pig Newton, made offering a rotating lineup of (Stripsteak, Michael Mina, with an additional 10 p.m. op- Sunday: 9:30 a.m. to midnight with fi g-infused Jack Daniels local and international artists Pub 1842) hopes his latest ven- tion on Friday nights, and tick- Web: runchickenrun.com honey and ancho chili and and shows. This year’s roster ture, Bardot Brasserie inside ets start at $100. bacon bourbon, which comes began Jan. 7 with Lia Chavez’s Aria, will transport diners to BY THE NUMBERS in full ($13) and half ($7) sizes. immersive meditation night- the City of Light — specifi- “Showstoppers” Stirring up the Strip’s bar club experience, titled “The cally, to a café on the Champs- Wynn Las Vegas scene is 3535 at the Linq, 3535 Octave of Visible Light.” Élysées in the 1920s. 3131 South Las Vegas Boulevard named after its address on The LINQ From Feb. 11 to March 8, To achieve Mina’s vin- Hotel Tel.: 702-770-7000 Las Vegas Boulevard as well 3535 Las Vegas Boulevard New York-based artist David tage vision, architectural Tickets: 702-770-9966 as the 35 house-made spirit in- Tel.: 800-634-6441 Colman will show his inter- design studio Bishop Pass Show Times: Tuesday through fusions on the menu. Although Hours: bar/lounge: 10 a.m. active “Santa Confessional” included Parisian design Saturday, 7:30 p.m. plus located next to hotel check-in, to 4 a.m.; gaming: Noon to 4 a.m. piece, which made its debut elements such as black lac- Friday at 10 p.m. the newly revamped watering Web: caesars.com/linq/things- at Art Basel Miami. For the quer wall paneling, burgun- Web: wynnlasvegas.com/ hole is not a typical lobby bar. to-do/3535#.VNFZLSlvnfs installation, guests enter dy leather booths, marble Entertainment/ShowStoppers YARDBIRD PHOTO BY 50 EGGS INC.; BARDOT BRASSERIE BY MGM RESORTS INTERNATIONAL MGM RESORTS 50 EGGS INC.; BARDOT BRASSERIE BY PHOTO BY YARDBIRD FEBRUARY 17–19, 2015 SOURCING at MAGIC opens February 16 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION LAS VEGAS & MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTERS

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LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER WWDMAGIC | PLAYGROUND | SOURCING at MAGIC | FN PLATFORM | WSA@MAGIC

Monday, February 16 | 12:00pm – 6:00pm (SOURCING at MAGIC only) Tuesday, February 17 | 9:00am – 7:00pm Wednesday, February 18 | 9:00am – 6:00pm Thursday, February 19 | 9:00am – 6:00pm (SOURCING at MAGIC closes at 4:00pm)

MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER PROJECT | THE TENTS | ENKVEGAS | MEN’S | POOLTRADESHOW

Tuesday, February 17 | 9:00am – 6:00pm Wednesday, February 18 | 9:00am – 6:00pm Thursday, February 19 | 9:00am – 5:00pm

JOIN THE CONVERSATION:#MAGICLV #MAGICReady #PROJECTReady

@magictradeshow youtube.com/c/magictradeshow @magicmarketweek @magicmarketweek 4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS PREVIEW KIDS IN THE HALL Amid a baby boom spurring a new crop of mini fashion fans, MAGIC is launch- ing a show called Playground to high- light contemporary children’s fashion brands. Making its debut next week in an 8,000-square-foot space located just outside the WWDMAGIC venue in the Las Vegas Convention Center’s Central Hall, Playground will feature about 100 Things dual-gender brands, including Splendid, Sweet Peanut, Ella Moss, Prefresh, Appaman, Urban Sunday, Orangeheat, to Chaser and NUNUNU. — K.T.L.T. at SOURCING WITH GLOBAL ARTISANS Know As a growing number of consumers seek products that have been crafted with an artisanal touch, Sourcing at the MAGIC is introducing an emporium Shows dubbed Global Artisans. There, 10 art- Key happenings and events at and around the trade fairs. Melissa ists from the Philippines, Cambodia Joan Hart’s and Nigeria will display an array of youngest handmade clothing, jewelry, scarves, son, Tucker handbags and shoes. Wilkerson, in a “[With] this compassionate con- Gorjana at ENK’s look from her sumerism movement, we’re trying to Conscious Collections. new boys’ line, give it a platform and are bringing in King of Harts. artisans from around the world,” said Chris Griffi n, president of Sourcing and WWDMAGIC. The emporium is open Feb. 16 to 19, Las Vegas Convention BOYS WILL BE BOYS Center South Hall, Level 2, Booth As the mother of three young sons, 90402-90407. — K.T.L.T. actress Melissa Joan Hart knows a thing or two about outfitting boys SPA DAY AT CURVENV for an adventure. And she’s going For the second time, CurveNV is spon- to MAGIC’s Playground to show soring a resort and spa program that off her knowledge as manifested invites 20 buyers representing 350 in the boys’ clothing line, King of properties including the Cosmopolitan Harts, launched this spring with Hotel, Four Seasons’ Beverly Wilshire her husband, Mark Wilkerson. Hotel and other posh resorts from the Setting up camp in booth 50304, West Coast and Midwest. The purpose is Hart will take buyers through to view loungewear, cover-ups, accesso- the American-made collection of ries and lingerie from 40 brands, includ- jeans, T-shirts, hoodies, button-up ing Hanro, Pluto on the Moon, Carmen shirts and military-inspired out- Glaser and BedHead Pajamas. erwear, all retailing from $32 to “Our brands are looking for new $88. As for the Hollywood mom’s areas to develop and grow,” said Pierre- ENK VEGAS GETS ETHICAL ultimate seal of approval, her Nicolas Hurstel, chief executive offi cer ENK Vegas is on a mission to promote women’s brands that make not only sons — Mason, Brady and Tucker of New York-based CurveExpo. “They stylish product but also a social difference in the world. As part of a group Wilkerson — model the togs for want to fi nd places where there is a real called Conscious Collections, the selected 46 brands immerse themselves in the company. — K.T.L.T. buying experience. Resorts and spas philanthropy, fair trade, organic materials, ethical production, social con- are a good start for them.” — K.T.L.T. sciousness and working with global artisans. Among them are jewelry maker Gorjana, accessories brand Whiting & Davis, Fisher Project from apparel label Eileen Fisher and casual clothier Michael Stars. — KHANH T.L. TRAN

FREE TRADE IN ENK VEGAS’ CO.LAB THE MIDDLE EAST GOES ON SAFARI On the 10th anniversary of the For its third iteration of design col- Qualifying Industrial Zones trade laborations offered exclusively at agreement that allows for certain du- the trade show, ENK Vegas is going ty-free benefits between the U.S. and on a chic African safari. Under the Egypt for goods manufactured with Co.lab grouping, Ben-Amun went Israeli-made materials, diplomats tribal for a necklace and bracelet, from the three nations will commemo- as did StyleStalker for a blazer rate the occasion at a ribbon-cutting with beading. Zebras inspired a ceremony at the Egyptian Pavilion at raglan-sleeved hemp T-shirt from Sourcing at MAGIC. LNA as well as a water bottle from Gail Strickler, assistant U.S. S’well. McGuire designed black trade representative for textiles, ripped cargos. — K.T.L.T. will meet with Gabby Bar, senior regional director of the Foreign Trade Administration in Israel’s Ministry of Economy, and Yael Ravia-Zadok, head of the Bureau of Middle East Economics in Japan Fun Time is back for the second time at WWDMAGIC. Israel’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Also joining them will be TOKYO-A-GO-GO Mohamed Kassem, chair- WWDMAGIC is injecting some Harajuku spirit on the Concourse with Japan man of the Egyptian Fun Time. Back for a sophomore presentation, in a continuing partnership Ready-Made Garments with the Japan Fashion Week-International Fashion Fair trade expo, Japan Council, and Ashraf Fun Time will feature young contemporary accessories brands Historie Ezzeldin, head of the Senken Shimbun Co., Senken Shimbun Co. and Q-Pot Japan. Egyptian Ministry of Also making their debut under a pink neon sign and banner of a yellow Trade and Industry’s QIZ rising sun are two new apparel brands: Another Important Culture and unit. The ceremony takes Tokostyle Impressine. place Feb. 17, 11:30 a.m. “It’s MAGIC’s responsibility to bring the world to Vegas,” said Chris Griffi n, to 12:30 p.m., Las Vegas president of Sourcing and WWDMAGIC. “When properly presented, buyers love Convention Center South the idea that they can have a taste of Tokyo fashion in their boutique.” — K.T.L.T. A bracelet designed by Ben-Amun for Co.lab, ENK Vegas’ Hall, Level 2, Booth grouping of collaborations exclusive to the show. 90512-90612. — K.T.L.T. {Continued on page 6} AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED ADRIANO AG

SPRING 2015 AGJEANS.COM 6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS PREVIEW MEET ZEE Hear Yahoo Style editor in chief and executive creative officer Joe Zee’s thoughts on everything related to fashion on Feb. 19. Zee will join Things WWD’s men’s fashion director Alex Badia for a conversation on fash- to ion trends at noon in the Las Vegas Knowat Convention Center, Central Hall, Booth 70312. theShows Zee will also serve as guest director for the women’s fashion show, offer- ing commentary on what he deems {Continued from page 4} standout brands. The runway event takes place at 2 p.m. in the North Hall, ONE-STOP SHOP Capsule will highlight streetwear, WomensWear in Nevada once again Booth 61517. — K.H. activewear and modern tailoring trends. takes place at the Rio Hotel . The show bills itself as one-stop shopping for women’s apparel retailers and offers vendors ranging from contemporary and CAPSULE COLLECTION misses’ lines to tall and petite collec- At Capsule, a few of the overarching trends include streetwear going high- tions. WWIN also includes accessories. end via brands such as Hood by Air and Off-White, along with — not surpris- The show opens at 9 a.m. and runs ingly — activewear . Brands showing include Naked & Famous Denim, Black until 8 p.m. on Feb. 16; 6 p.m. on Feb. Pine Workshop, 18 Waits and Self Edge. 17 and 18, and 4 p.m. on Feb. 19. The cash-and-carry section, Donut Shop, features vintage merch from Complimentary breakfast and lunch dealers such as Tart and Orange Crush along with ceramics and home goods is available. Shuttles, located at door 21 from Los Angeles labels Bzippy and Scout Regalia. Editors from the men’s of the North Hall, will take attendees wear blog Selectism were tapped to pull their favorite pieces, which will be to and from the Las Vegas Convention displayed at the show entrance. Center for WWDMAGIC. Shuttles are Capsule runs Feb. 16 and 17 from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Feb. 18 from 9 a.m. to also available to Bally’s for the KIDShow. 4 p.m. The show takes place in the Venetian Ballroom at the Sands Expo. — K.H. — KARI HAMANAKA

OffPrice’s Cash & Carry section will SPANDEX STILL STRONG offer broader offerings in footwear, Activewear is showing no signs TREASURE HUNT accessories, activewear and men’s wear. OffPrice, which added about of fatigue. Floor space dedi- 1,000 square feet, has more than cated to yoga and activewear at 500 exhibitors across some 1,300 WWDMAGIC White is being ex- booths. Footwear, accessories, panded by more than 50 percent to activewear and men’s wear 5,000 square feet. New additions have been expanded and the include Rese Activewear, Zara Cash & Carry section will total Terez, Tono a Tono, Mika Yoga Wear 65 booths, up from 53 at last and Satva. WWDMAGIC White is February’s show. in the North Hall of the Las Vegas OffPrice will again have a Convention Center. — K.H. room dedicated to buyer infor- mation and social media, which was offered for the fi rst time in August. It’s back and larger for February’s show and has an area for buyers to take selfi es for OffPrice’s social media hubs as part of a contest. OffPrice runs Feb. 15 to 18 at the Sands Expo and Convention Center. Wholesale hours are from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., except on the fi nal day when the show fl oor closes at 3 p.m. — K.H.

ON THE AGENDA Yahoo’s Joe Zee will decipher women’s A contingency of streetwear and ac- BACK TO SCHOOL fashion trends at WWDMAGIC. tion sports labels will show at Agenda Magic University launches this year Las Vegas. It’s not as large as its edi- starting with five e-courses aimed tions in Long Beach and New York, at retailers, entrepreneurs and Liberty Fairs is but brands showing include Zoo other fashion industry profession- bringing more than York, Vans, Diamond Supply Co. and als. Topics to be tackled include 100 new brands to Herschel Supply Co. omnichannel, social media, trend LIBERTY ADDS BRANDS its Las Vegas show. Liberty Fairs features more Agenda runs Feb. 16 and 17 from 9 forecasting, consumer demograph- than 100 new brands during a.m. to 6 p.m. and Feb. 18 from 9 a.m. ics and sustainability in product its three-day run, includ- to 4 p.m. at the Sands Expo. — K.H. design and development. Content ing Freeman Plat, Etiquette will be e-mailed to program par- Clothiers, Scott Langton and ticipants every three days; each POOL PARTY Ten C. An area devoted to Pool, aimed at boutique retail- track includes between three and grooming and men’s apothecary ers, showcases brands like Jeffrey five e-mails. Educational topics will brands, called The Drugstore, Campbell, American Apparel, Lip be updated on a quarterly basis. will return with Birchbox Man Service, Tripp NYC, Disturbia and Current offerings can be found and Fellow Barber showing. Bandit Brand. at magicuniversity.co . — K.H. Shuttle service from the air- Curbside Apparel artists will be port to The Venetian and Sands on hand to paint in the Pool Lounge. Expo will be available in the Custom bags from American Apparel parking lot of Terminal one at and AKA, Angry Blossom temporary zero level and Terminal three, tattoos, an exhibition featuring items doors 51 and 57. The service is from the Irregular Choice Installation available between 10:30 a.m. and archives and performances by Get 4:45 p.m. on Feb. 15, and 9:30 Down Art round out the mix of events a.m. and 3:45 p.m. on Feb. 16. and other happenings at the show. Liberty is open from 9 a.m. to Pool is at the Mandalay Bay 6 p.m. Feb. 16 and 17 and 9 a.m. Convention Center, running Feb. 17 to to 4 p.m. on Feb. 18. — K.H. 19 from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., except on the fi nal day when the show fl oor closes at 5 p.m. — K.H. {Continued on page 8}

8 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS PREVIEW

HOLLYWOOD AT MAGIC Learn about the creative Things process of costume designers or find out whether your line to has the potential to make it Knowat big on set at a series of semi- nars being offered throughout theShows the week. Speakers include stylists and designers from shows such as “Pretty Little {Continued from page 6} Liars” and “Fashion Star” PARTY TIME and plus-size model Emme. Las Vegas isn’t known as Sin City for — K.H. nothing. Trade fair organizers are host- ing a string of parties for attendees. ■ Would Your Line Make It in ■ OffPrice is holding an opening night Hollywood? Feb. 17, 9 to 11 a.m., cocktail party in its Cash & Carry area Las Vegas Convention on Feb. 15 as well as a closing night Center, South Hall, bash at Tao Lounge on Feb. 17. Level 2, Booth 90451. ■ FN Platform is ringing in its fifth an- niversary in Las Vegas with singer ■ How Costume Designers Taylor Dayne, who will perform at the Make TV & Film Come to Life: FN Café on Feb. 17. Feb. 18, 2 to 3 p.m., Las Vegas ■ On the other side of the Las Vegas Convention Center, South Hall, Strip around the same time, Project Level 2, Booth 90451. is splitting hosting duties with swim brand Orlebar Brown for a cocktail ■ Plus-Size Fashion: Are You Missing a party at Red Square. Major Market Opportunity? ■ ENK Vegas and contemporary label Feb. 17, 10 to 11 a.m., Las Vegas StyleStalker are rounding up bloggers Convention Center, South Hall, such as Sahara Ray, Margo & Me and Stylists from shows such as ABC Family’s “Pretty Little Liars” Level 2, Room S231. Jen Agogo for cocktails and conversa- will discuss the role of costume designers at MAGIC.

tion in the Oasis area on the same day. ERIC MCCANDLESS/ABC FAMILY/COURTESY PHOTO BY ■ Later that night, Capsule is throwing its usual shindig at downtown dive bar FASHION, MEET TECH The Griffin. An illustratation by Sunfl owerman. A panel of industry executives will Kellan Lutz ■ Pool is bringing the festivities discuss technology in the future of to its lounge at the Mandalay Bay fashion, touching on sustainable fab- Convention Center with a happy hour rics and processes and practical ways on Feb. 17 and 18. of incorporating technology into a line. ■ FN Platform rounds up dapper dudes Speakers include Anthony Anzovino, for a men’s cocktail hour on Feb. 18 at Haggar Clothing Co.’s vice president the Camp/Bond Lounge. of global sourcing; Claire Ortiz, ceo of ■ For its official party at Light night- Ortiz Industry, and Ken Barker, chief club, also on Feb. 18, Project is hooking strategic adviser for CRAiLAR. up with Eleven Paris to blast tunes Sourcing at MAGIC, Feb. 17, 12:30 to spun by GTA and a special guest. 1:30 p.m., Las Vegas Convention Center, — WWD STAFF South Hall, Level 2, Room S229. — K.H. NEW VANGUARD AT MRKET Proving that the hit animation movie “Frozen” has seeped into every cor- ner of pop culture, MRket is adapt- ing themes like “Polar Plunge” and “Danger Thin Ice” into its presentation of emerging men’s brands within its Vanguards Gallery. Hand-selected by Michael Macko, a former vice president at Saks Fifth Avenue, the section fea- tures more than 25 exhibitors, includ- ETCH-A-SKETCH ing C89, Hook + Albert, I.C. Richard Street-style photos are so 2013. Choi and ZB Savoy Bowtie Co. — K.T.L.T. RETAIL’S FUTURE — ROBOTS? Project is partnering with illustra- Nadia Shouraboura, ceo at Seattle- tor Sunflowerman (née Matthew A NEW STITCH based Hointer, thinks robots are the Miller) to digitally sketch nattily Stitch is taking an elevated ap- future of retail, and is set to give dressed attendees at the expo’s proach to contemporary women’s a keynote address at Sourcing at #BloggerProject Lounge. Par fashion with a new zone called Stitch MAGIC on the future of buying and for the course with street style, Together. Nearly 50 brands hailing inventory management using tech- Instagram serves as the vehicle from the U.S. and Europe are slated nology. Hointer has a specialty denim for sharing via the artist’s handle, to appear. Among them are Amour store in Seattle that allows custom- @sunflowerman. — K.T.L.T. Vert, Viereck, The T Refinery, Nanà ers to make selections and purchase Nucci and Phillipe Olivier. — K.T.L.T. items through an app, thereby elimi- nating the need for customers to sift through piles of pants and store asso- ciates having to clean up the mess. The company helps other re- NEST FOR NEWBIES tailers install the same technology Following its debut in

platform in their own storefronts. AccessoriesTheShow’s HARRISON/GETTY FRAZER IMAGES PHOTO BY Feb. 18, 2 to 3 p.m., Las Vegas New York edition last Convention Center, South Hall, month, Nest is head- CELEBRITIES MAKE THEIR PITCH Level 2, Room S231. — K.H. ing to Las Vegas with Several bold-faced names are making a juried section of up- the trip to Las Vegas not to party but and-coming designers. rather to work the trade show floor. BUZZ ABOUT TECH Some of the brands to On Feb. 17 at Project, Kellan Lutz will For the latest on new apps or social be featured include walk buyers through the fall collection media trends, check out the Buzz CoFi Leathers, Red for Abbot + Main while Brooke Burke- Boutique. Representatives from Earth, Dona Bela Charvet will promote her activewear Alibaba and TrueShip, among other Shreds, Kutula Kiss line called Caelum Lifestyle. Then on companies, will be on hand and and Jamison Rae Feb. 18, Nicky Hilton will unveil her workshops will take place through- Jewelry. — K.T.L.T. new handbag collaboration with Linea out the course of WWDMAGIC dur- Pelle at ENK Vegas. ing regular show hours. Las Vegas Meanwhile at FN Platform on the Convention Center, South Hall, same day, baseball legend Pete Rose will Nest is a new nook for emerging designers at AccessoriesTheShow. Level 2, Lobby. — K.H. meet fans at Skechers’ booth. — K.T.L.T.

10 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD VEGAS PREVIEW Billy Reid’s cotton coat, Pendleton’s wool cardigan and Max ’n Chester’s Japanese wool pants. Vince sneakers.

Statement overcoats, wool textures, rich shearlings and an overall Seventies fl air are some of the defi ning trends that will resonate at the Las Vegas trade shows next week. Retro Vegas— ALEX BADIA PHOTOS BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ

12 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD VEGAS PREVIEW

Cockpit USA’s leather coat, Gant Rugger’s wool sweater and pants and Mr Turk’s cotton shirt.

14 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD VEGAS PREVIEW Belstaff’s leather Original jacket, Haspel’s Penguin’s wool cotton turtleneck jacket, Massimo and Mr Turk’s Alba’s cashmere cotton pants. and wool sweater and Onia’s cotton and poly pants. Bailey of Hollywood hat.

Massimo Alba’s wool, Gant Rugger’s nylon and mohair coat wool and poly and yak and mohair coat, Zachary cardigan; Mr Turk’s Prell’s wool cotton shirt, and Splendid and cashmere Mills’ cotton pants. sweater and Tailor Vintage’s cotton pants.

16 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD VEGAS PREVIEW DWELL

Cockpit USA’s leather coat, C-of-H Man’s cotton jacket, Victorinox’s wool sweater and WeSC’s cotton pants. Vince sneakers. MODEL: AARON VERNON AT WILHELMINA; GROOMING BY MARCEL DAGENAIS @ LVA ARTISTS FOR ORIBE HAIR CARE; FASHION ASSISTANT: KAYANA COR KAYANA ASSISTANT: FOR ORIBE HAIR CARE; FASHION ARTISTS DAGENAIS @ LVA MARCEL WILHELMINA; GROOMING BY MODEL: AARON VERNON AT WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 17 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS PREVIEW Ones to Watch at the Vegas Shows Some of the labels to said Guez, who serves as chief To be sure, One Bxwd isn’t a deal with jeanswear veteran dex to ensure the jeans have executive offi cer of Boulevard another denim brand from Izzy Heinfl ing of Denim Jeans comfort attributes. keep your eyes on. Brands, the Los Angeles-based Guez. Denim represents only Styles Inc. to relaunch Adolfo “We’re really focusing on company that owns Dylan 15 percent of the entire line, Jeans for fall. The collection will stretch fabrics,” Izzy said, add- ONE BXWD George, Caelum and Abbot + which wholesales from $78 make its debut at MAGIC Men’s ing that the jeans will sport sev- Serial fashion entrepreneur Main. “I know what Middle to $500. Available in slim, in Las Vegas. eral washes and fi nishes, includ- Danny Guez is adding another America wants, but we’re giv- straight and skinny fits, the Heinfl ing has been in the ing sandblasting and abrasions brand to his portfolio. After ing it a European edge that jeans stay clean with a raw denim business for de- for the more fashion- launching William Rast with consumers can understand.” finish or simple rinse and cades, creating the forward models. Justin Timberlake, Abbot + Added Garibay: “We want also come fully destroyed Sergio Valente brand In terms of color Main with Kellan Lutz, Caelum it to have the elements of ac- with rip-and-repair touches. in the Eighties and palette, the jeans with Brooke Burke, and pre- tivewear but read sportswear. Targeting retailers such as Major Damage in the will be offered in mium jean brands People’s You’re not wearing your Barneys New York, Neiman early Nineties. His a range of blue Liberation and Dylan tracksuit or gym outfi t Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and company also has a hues as well as George, the denim vet- on a daily basis.” Bloomingdale’s, Guez aims to robust private-label blacks and grays. eran is venturing into The styles hit fi rst-year sales of $5 million business today, work- There’s also an as- men’s sportswear this that Garibay to $9 million. ing with many of the sortment of heavy fall with One Bxwd. and Guez Still, Guez can’t stay out of country’s top retail- twill canvas pants Teaming with will show the women’s denim market for ers. For Adolfo Jeans, in “fall colors,” Gustavo Garibay, One Bxwd in the Tents long. He plans to ship a small which marks his such as rust, he who previously at Project number of women’s jeans sold return to the brand- said, and there designed sports- include but- under the One Bxwd brand in ed jeans business, are five versions wear for Jacob ton-up shirts June to follow with a full wom- Heinfl ing is working of joggers, which Davis and also with an ab- en’s line in spring 2016. closely with his son should address the for the men’s stract geomet- “With the denim brands David, who serves as ath-leisure trend divisions at ric print, T-shirts that are in department sales director, to in- that’s popular in Seven For All made from mercer- stores, sportswear is a second ject youth and energy GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY the market, David Mankind and ized cotton or linen-polyester thought,” he said. “For us, into the collection. Adolfo Jeans Heinfling said. Guess, Guez is combining the blends, varsity jackets and sportswear is a fi rst thought.” Izzy Heinfl ing said Everything will comfort and mobility expect- jogger pants cut from bonded — KHANH T.L. TRAN the jeans will be offered in have the Adolfo lion crest ed of activewear and giving jersey, white textured pullover three fi ts, many of which will somewhere on the garment. it a polished look. sweaters and jeans that boast ADOLFO JEANS offer stretch. He said he has But what Adolfo hopes will The question Guez kept 35 percent stretch. A palette It’s been about a decade since been working with his mills set the collection apart is its asking himself was: “Why can’t of black, burgundy, navy, white the Adolfo name graced a pair of over the past year to de- price. “We’re offering a pre- we bring a European aesthetic and gray adds to the Nineties jeans. But that’s about to change. velop a new knit denim for mium jean at an affordable to an American fi t?” vibe that runs through the Adolfo License Group chair- the line, and will also use a price,” David said. Retail pric- “We admire The Kooples,” inaugural collection. man Paul Wattenberg has signed rayon blend and cotton span- es will range from $40 to $55,

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WWD LAS VEGAS PREVIEW

and the brand is targeting de- is the oldest fashion company season, offering sport coats, suits younger, denim-focused stores. partment stores such as Macy’s, in the world to be owned and and outerwear in fabrics that Prices for the cotton gar- C.P. Company Belk and Bon-Ton. run by the same family. It con- are neither washed nor dyed ment-dyed offerings range from The jeans are expected to tinues to be known for offer- from Biella mills in Italy. Jersey $695 to $725, wool pieces — ei- appeal to a man who is “a little ing high-quality Italian men’s options are also available. ther treated or untreated — are older, but still wants to look wear with a focus on tailored “The collection is about 50 $795 to $850, trousers are $195 young,” David said. clothing. Several years ago, the percent larger,” Spero said, to $295 and outerwear ranges “Jeans are the bread and brand launched L.B.M. 1911, adding that a new trouser from $995 to $1,295. — J.E.P. butter of the apparel busi- a line of soft jackets, decon- category with an “emphasis” ness,” Wattenberg said, noting structed outerwear and pants on print and pattern has also C.P. COMPANY that the customer who wears for the American market that been added. Since its founding by Massimo Adolfo suits and sport coats has Osti in 1975 in Italy, C.P. been clamoring for the more- L.B.M. 1911 Company has created a follow- casual addition. “We’ve shifted ing for functional garments that Adolfo [tailored clothing] to a offer military and workwear ref- younger, slimmer silhouette, so erences updated with the latest we thought it would be a timely fabrics and finishes. The outer- thing to add jeans that would wear and other lifestyle prod- go with these jackets and the ucts are especially popular with slim shirts, trousers and sweat- an urban customer, particularly ers we’re doing. It’s cool today the brand’s signature “Mille to wear a blazer with jeans.” Miglia,” or Goggle jacket, which “fabrics are the real strength Adolfo overall is a $55 million made its first appearance in of any garment, especially in business, with men’s accounting 1988 as an homage to the Mille collections like that of C.P. for about 80 percent of sales. Miglia classic-car race. Company. The fabrics in these — JEAN E. PALMIERI Now owned by businessman clothes are still contemporary Enzo Fusco of FGF Industry, because they are timeless and L.B.M. 1911 C.P. Company is making its fi rst not restricted by fashion.” Lubiam can trace its roots all appearance at the Liberty Fairs The Goggle jacket, which the way back to 1898, when show this season as part of the features a half mask with built- 16-year-old Luigi Bianchi left Organico showroom. in goggles integrated into the his home in Mantova, Italy, to Mark Ernst, who reps the hood — a piece inspired by take up the tailoring trade in line at Organico, said the main jet pilot helmets — remains Turin. When he returned in is targeted to a younger man. It L.B.M. 1911 is sold in about thrust of the fall collection is a key piece within the line. 1911, he opened his own made- is being shown at Liberty Fairs 100 U.S. specialty stores, and an updated selection of fabrics Ernst said that under FGF, to-measure clothing shop, and for the fi rst time this season. Spero said the independent including Limonta, a water-re- variations of the jacket are now in 1941, he changed the com- Marc Spero, vice president of retailer remains the brand’s sistant woven jaquard that C.P. being offered, with the lens on pany name to Lubiam, which operations for Lubiam USA, said primary target. “We’re going Company is offering in a vari- the sleeves or the chest. “It’s is based on an acronym: LUigi while the brand has built its rep- to keep it that way for now,” ety of heritage patterns such as branding,” he said. BIAnchi Mantova. utation on unconstructed, gar- he said, noting that the collec- plaids and herringbones digi- In addition to outerwear, the Today, Lubiam is run by the ment-dyed and garment-washed tion is carried in retailers as tally printed on the fabric. offering includes fleece and fourth generation of the found- clothing, it is branching out into “diverse” as the upscale Forum “For me, as for Massimo knitwear, some in mixed-media er, and the brand boasts that it “untreated” goods as well this Group members as well as Osti before me,” Fusco said, combinations such as a nylon- WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 19 WWD.COM / iÀi½Ãœ˜Þœ˜ià œÜˆ˜6i}>à and-microfiber tone-on-tone bomber Ligne 8’s fi rst collection, which will jacket and a down jacket with knit be shown at Capsule, will encompass Ì >Ì“>ŽiÃޜÕ>œÌœv“œ˜iÞ\ sleeves. Casual shirts, casual and dress 60 pieces, including a Japanese denim pants round out the offering. jean with a four-way stretch gusset, re- Ernst said the C.P. Company col- fl ective tape and a waterproof fi nish lection is targeted at an active guy that retails for $128. The brand hopes who’s looking for one wardrobe to to sign up no more than two retailers in wear to work and on the weekend. each major city around the world. Outerwear retails for $895 to $1,500, “The details make it functional and while sportswear sells for $195 to fashionable,” Kaylin said of the line, $695, and the goal is to sell the brand adding that he believes Ligne 8 “can into specialty stores whose custom- create a new category.” — J.E.P. ers embrace that philosophy. — J.E.P. J BRAND’S MENSWEAR 2))35,&( LIGNE 8 COLLECTION Scott Kaylin is no stranger to the ap- J Brand is angling for style symmetry by parel business. For years, he toiled in launching a men’s sportswear line. the dress business on Seventh Avenue Three years after it diversifi ed from before scrapping it all to follow his denim to sportswear in its women’s heart. An avid cyclist, Kaylin merged business, the Los Angeles-based com- his passion for the sport with his experi- pany is readying to offer 100 stock- ence in international garment sourcing keeping units this fall for a subbrand and created Champion System in 2004. called Menswear Collection. Among Over the past decade, the custom tech- the styles to be shown at the Tents nical apparel company has expanded at Project are a jacquard intarsia into other sports, including triathlons, sweater in merino wool, a black fl eece running and rowing. It works with more sweatshirt with a zipped hem, a denim than 10,000 teams and clubs in the U.S. jean jacket printed with green pig- and has grown to 24 offices worldwide. ment swirled in a camo pattern, a dark indigo button-up shirt and lambskin leather jogging pants. Ligne 8 Not only do these sportswear piec- es that retail from $68 to $1,350 allow for easier styling and merchandising within the men’s grouping, but they also strengthen a cohesiveness with the women’s business. For instance, a wool- blend pullover sweater dip-dyed to fade from gray to green is available in both men’s and women’s sizes. “It’s a dual-gender brand,” said J Brand president Lynne Koplin. “There has to be symmetry for men and women.” Now, Kaylin has created a branded This launch is the fi rst major initia- line, Ligne 8, a functional lifestyle label tive under the direction of Mary Bruno, for the commuting city dweller. Targeted who joined the Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. to the active man and woman, the line unit as head of design last fall after blends the technology gained from serving as a design executive at Ralph Kaylin’s experience in the cycling world Lauren, Levi’s and Earl Jean. One of with his fashion industry expertise. her fi rst hires in November was Michael Ligne 8 apparel is made from high-tech Abbey, a former designer at surf-in- fabrics in classic silhouettes — but with spired brand M.Nii and premium denim a subtle twist. The men’s Copenhagen label Mother, who oversaw J Brand’s Soft Shell Jacket, for example, features sportswear offshoot as head of men’s an action back that allows for more design. For the inaugural collection, range of motion and an extended tail for Abbey worked in a neutral palette and full coverage while commuting. It will channeled a utilitarian but sporty vibe. retail for $480. “We actually have a really good momen- Óä‡Çä¯ "77 œiÃ>i*ÀˆVià The line’s pants sit lower on the front tum going,” he said. waist while the back rise is higher for To be sure, the women’s business extra coverage. Details such as internal eclipses the men’s division at J Brand. £]ÎääLœœÌ ÃVœÛiÀˆ˜}>>««>ÀiV>Ìi}œÀˆià gripper tape keeps the shirt tucked in, Although growing at a quicker rate and hip pockets are slanted to ensure than the mature women’s market, men’s contents don’t fall out. Refl ective bind- makes up only 10 percent of J Brand’s ing and trims help with visibility. total revenue. Of that share, Koplin ex- “Ligne 8 was created for the active pects sportswear to contribute lifestyle,” said garment industry vet- between 10 and 15 per- eran Cecilia Allen, who oversees cent of men’s sales, as 23 the collection from Hong Kong as her strategy for dis- chief executive offi cer. “[It] al- tribution doesn’t /9 lows a person to explore life, replicate the 2))35,&( in tailored style and com- retail map for fort.” She added that each its jeans busi- piece offers “high-end J Brand ness. “It’s con- finishes and trims [and] trolled growth,” classic styling, but with she said, not- unique features.” ing target re- )(%58$5< Other key pieces tailers include include the Ferrara Saks Fifth Avenue, Blazer, which offers Bergdorf Goodman  a tailored fi t but with and Bloomingdale’s. slightly longer sleeves to accom- Plus, she hopes to open J Brand’s 6$1'6(;32_/$69(*$6 modate cyclists. Retailing for $370, it is fi rst freestanding U.S. store within two manufactured from Schoeller stretch- years The company also has learned cotton fabrics that offer water and stain what not to do following its entry into resistance. The Seville Trouser is a con- the women’s sportswear market. temporary slim fi t with a hidden gusset “We learned that the ready-to-wear )$6+,21:((. and an antichafe lining. component has to relate back to the The women’s offering includes the denim,” Koplin said. “And that’s prob- Anson Jumpsuit, which retails for $248 ably the most important thing, not and offers an alternative to separates from the merchandising standpoint. ->˜`à ݫœ>Ì6i˜ï>˜É*>>ââœN>Ã6i}>à dressing, as well as a classic black pant The guy who wears the jeans has to be that is water repellent, offers four-way the guy who wears sportswear.” stretch and abrasion resistance. — K.T.L.T. 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