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AMERICAN ANTHEM MADE IN THE USA IS SEEING A RESURGENCE AND IT’S A KEY POLITICAL ISSUE. SECTION II MALE MAKEOVER BERGDORF GOODMAN UNVEILS A REMODELED MEN’S DEPARTMENT. PAGE 3 LUXURY LAWSUITS Hermès Sues LVMH, LVMH Sues Hermès By JOELLE DIDERICH PARIS — Let the hostilities resume. Hermès International and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said Tuesday they were heading to court over their ongoing dispute regarding LVMH’s WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR D acquisition of a 22.3 percent stake in the maker of Birkin bags and silk scarves. WWD Hermès confi rmed that on July 10, it lodged a com- plaint with a Paris court against LVMH, which sur- prised markets by revealing in October 2010 that it had amassed a 17.1 percent stake in Hermès via cash- settled equity swaps that allowed it to circumvent the usual market rules requiring fi rms to declare share Grin and purchases. The world’s biggest luxury group has since steadily increased its stake, a move seen by Hermès offi cials as an attempt at a creeping takeover, despite reassur- Bear It ances from LVMH chairman and chief executive offi - cer Bernard Arnault that he is not seeking full control. With more than 50 “This complaint concerns the terms of LVMH’s ac- quisition of stock in Hermès International,” Hermès collections under her low- said in a two-line statement. It is accusing LVMH of slung belt, Donna Karan, insider trading, collusion and manipulating stock shown here in her studio, prices, according to a source familiar with the issue, who declined to be named for confi dentiality reasons. should have the preshow A spokeswoman for the Paris prosecutor’s offi ce process down pat. While said the court was examining the complaint and had she does by now have a referred the matter for opinion to the stock market regulator AMF, which in November 2010 launched an bit of a routine — start investigation to determine if LVMH respected market prepping three months rules. That inquiry is still open. LVMH shot back Tuesday by revealing it would fi le out; maintain the yoga, a suit against Hermès for “slander, blackmail and un- aromatherapy and fair competition.” massages — Karan “By fi ling its complaint, Hermès seeks to bypass the appropriate AMF channels without waiting for still gets the jitters. “It the result of the offi cial enquiry [sic] and without de- amazes me how I am a termining the extent of the AMF’s fi ndings to date. mess that morning of In addition, the fi ling carries serious and unfounded it,” she says. “I think SEE PAGE 2 it’s an old emotion that pops up. It’s like going to the Zegna’s Pilati Plan dentist — you By MILES SOCHA and LUISA ZARGANI will never like it.” For more PARIS — The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is banking fashion week on the design prowess of Stefano Pilati to lift its for- tunes in men’s wear — and Agnona women’s wear —to confessions, see a new summit. pages 6 and 7. “We are appreciated for our quality, fabrics and style. We wanted to add a twist of fashion and this was the right moment,” said Gildo Zegna, chief executive offi cer of the Italian fi rm, which last year surpassed the 1 billion euro revenue threshold. “This will also help us to work with less mature clients, and catch opportunities in emerging markets where there are younger and wealthier customers.” On Tuesday, Zegna revealed the arrival of Pilati, the former creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, confi rming a report in WWD. He starts Jan. 1 as creative director of Agnona, and head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, with responsi- bility for that brand’s fashion show as well as for the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection, the latter built on sartorial, hand-stitched suits in precious fabrics. (Zegna noted that Pilati would not oversee Z Zegna, designed by Paul Surridge, which he defi ned as a “young and fashion” line.) The appointment of Pilati signals that Zegna is pumping up its fashion credentials with a well-known and seasoned talent, known for his suave personal style, press appeal and infl uential silhouettes. It comes amid heightened competition among Europe’s big luxury groups for men’s wear domi- nance. Last November, Gucci parent PPR acquired PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2012 Dems Take Balanced Trade Stance the Briefing Box The fashion industry, which By KRISTI ELLIS imported $101.5 billion in goods in Today’s WWd in the year ended June 30, $40.9 CHARLOTTE, N.C. — Democrats billion from China, and U.S. tex- took a pragmatic approach to tile producers that have lost tens trade in their party platform of thousands of jobs over the Model Clara Settje that was set to be adopted on years have a lot at stake in trade talks to WWD. Tuesday night, balancing free- policy toward China. For im- trade principles with a commit- porters, getting tough on China ment to enforcement and favor- would be a major headache s ing diplomacy over punitive since that is where they source a T rO a d measures with China. significant portion of their prod- The overall platform set to ucts. For domestic manufactur- ary m be adopted by delegates at the ers, the stance would be a wel- anagemen m by Democratic National Convention come boost for the growing Made here in the Time Warner Cable in America movement to revital- Michelle Obama del PHOTO mO Arena Tuesday night upheld ize U.S. manufacturing. P some of President Obama’s posi- Critics of China’s monetary The Democratic platform calls Trum f tions, calling for higher taxes on policies claim the country keeps for support for the Trans-Pacific O the wealthy and lower taxes on its currency artificially low, Partnership negotiations be- esy the middle class. which in turn makes Chinese tween the U.S. and 10 other coun- T ur O The sharpest contrast be- imports cheaper and puts U.S. tries, expanding trade with Latin C tween the two parties on trade manufacturers at a competitive America and the Caribbean, came on policy toward China. disadvantage. meeting the goal of doubling ex- PHOTO “Both publicly and privately, “While the Obama administra- ports by the end of 2014 and sup- the President has made clear to tion has filed more cases against porting permanent normal trade Hermès International and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis the Chinese government that it China at the WTO than previous relations with Russia, which Vuitton were heading to court over LVMH’s acquisition of needs to take steps to appreci- administrations, we would have joined the WTO last month. a 22.3 percent stake of Hermès. PAGE 1 ate its currency so that America liked to have seen a stronger “I’m glad to see [Democrats] is competing on a level playing stance on currency manipula- are also talking about the value of The ermenegildo Zegna Group is banking on the design field,” the Democratic platform tion in the platform,” said Cass trade,” said Stephanie Lester, vice prowess of Stefano Pilati to lift its fortunes in men’s wear said. “This administration has Johnson, president at the National president of international trade and Agnona women’s wear to a new summit. PAGE 1 doubled the rate of trade cases Council of Textile Organizations. at the Retail Industry Leaders By JOELLE DIDERICH brought against China by the last “There is a disappointment Association. “I think they tried to Bergdorf Goodman Men has raised the bar for luxury administration and created a new that neither Republican nor add more language about protec- men’s retailing in New York. PAGE 3 PARIS — Let the hostilities resume. government-wide Interagency Democratic [administrations] tions at the risk of upsetting the Hermès International and LVMH Moët Hennessy Trade Enforcement Center.” have really been willing to take bipartisan balance and support a photo taken at a bus accident on Aug. 26 might end up Louis Vuitton said Tuesday they were heading to The Obama administration China on in an effective manner for trade. New trade initiatives causing a decline of luxury watch sales in China in the court over their ongoing dispute regarding LVMH’s has filed several unfair trade regarding unfair trade practices. can be controversial for unions, next quarter. PAGE 3 acquisition of a 22.3 percent stake in the maker of cases against China at the World We’ve seen a lot of textile jobs and and we haven’t seen much of a Birkin bags and silk scarves. Trade Organization for tires, over a million manufacturing jobs proactive agenda [under Obama] British designers hope to harness some of the Olympic/ Hermès confirmed that on July 10, it lodged a com- credit card companies and shipped overseas over the last 10 as we should have on trade.” Diamond Jubilee buzz to to help fuel London Fashion plaint with a Paris court against LVMH, which sur- chemicals. But the administra- years to China. I guess the ques- Kevin Burke, president and Week. PAGE 4 prised markets by revealing in October 2010 that it tion, understanding the politi- tion is, when will that change and chief executive officer of the had amassed a 17.1 percent stake in Hermès via cash- cal sensitivity of relations with is it going to change?” American Apparel & Footwear Gucci kept a busy social schedule at the Venice Film settled equity swaps that allowed it to circumvent the China, has repeatedly declined David Spooner, a trade attor- Association, said both parties Festival, hosting a trio of events including an awards usual market rules requiring firms to declare share to name China a currency manip- ney with Squire Sanders and for- “want to increase exports…but dinner honoring women in film.

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