The Leading Edge
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ANN ISSUEISSSUE OF WOMEN’SWOM WEAR DAILY THE LEADING EDGE ONE FOR ALL? THE DEMOCRATIZATION OF DISTRIBUTION YOUNG HOLLYWOOD AT PLAY THE ORIGINAL MODEL MOGUL TELLS ALL WAL-MART’S CHANGE OF FACE REDEFINING PICTURE FAB PERFECT FOUR BREAKOUT BEAUTIES FOR THE MODERN AGE HIND SAHLI, JOAN SMALLS, ILVIE WITTEK AND TATI COTLIAR BB1005.001.Cover.a;14.indd 1 4/28/10 3:53:41 PM © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. DNA damage and skin aging. The #1 Repair formula womenNow you around have morethe world control can’tover itlive than without. you think.* AdvancedAdvanced NightNight Repair InspiredThe one by revolutionary 25 years of formulagroundbreaking millions of DNAwomen research. can’t live without. Inspired by 25 years of groundbreaking DNA research, There’s a reason why millions of women love it. Estée Lauder scientists bring you this high-performance They start seeing the dramatic reduction in the serum to help continuously repair the appearance of visible signs of aging in just 4 weeks and can’t past damage. With the age-defying power of our exclusive imagine trusting their skin to anything else. In fact, Chronolux™ Technology, you’ll see a dramatic reduction women love sharing their secret for beautiful skin: in the visible signs of aging. “My skin looks younger and feels softer. It just looks *Based on unit sales of Advanced Night Repair as reported by the NPD for FY 2010 among select brands sold in fi ne department stores in the U.S. © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. sold in fi the NPD for FY 2010 among select brands Night Repair as reported by Advanced *Based on unit sales of healthier, smoother and I have a more even skin tone.” CARLA,New USA For Eyes All the proven repair of our #1 Serum. “Every morning my skin looks and feels better than it you’ll see a reduction didWith the Advancedday before.” Night Repair Eye, in the look of every key sign of aging around your eyes— GINGER, USA fi ne lines, wrinkles, dark circles, dryness, puffi ness and If youuneven want skintone younger,. healthier-looking skin now New and in the future, don’t go a night without this revolutionary20 Patents repair Worldwide. serum. 20Estée patents Lauder’s worldwide. Advanced Night Repair. Comprehensive anti-aging like no other formula. Discover it now with a esteelauder.compersonalized skincare consultation at Estée Lauder. esteelauder.com © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. DNA damage and skin aging. The #1 Repair formula womenNow you around have morethe world control can’tover itlive than without. you think.* AdvancedAdvanced NightNight Repair InspiredThe one by revolutionary 25 years of formulagroundbreaking millions of DNAwomen research. can’t live without. Inspired by 25 years of groundbreaking DNA research, There’s a reason why millions of women love it. Estée Lauder scientists bring you this high-performance They start seeing the dramatic reduction in the serum to help continuously repair the appearance of visible signs of aging in just 4 weeks and can’t past damage. With the age-defying power of our exclusive imagine trusting their skin to anything else. In fact, Chronolux™ Technology, you’ll see a dramatic reduction women love sharing their secret for beautiful skin: in the visible signs of aging. “My skin looks younger and feels softer. It just looks *Based on unit sales of Advanced Night Repair as reported by the NPD for FY 2010 among select brands sold in fi ne department stores in the U.S. © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. sold in fi the NPD for FY 2010 among select brands Night Repair as reported by Advanced *Based on unit sales of healthier, smoother and I have a more even skin tone.” CARLA,New USA For Eyes All the proven repair of our #1 Serum. “Every morning my skin looks and feels better than it you’ll see a reduction didWith the Advancedday before.” Night Repair Eye, in the look of every key sign of aging around your eyes— GINGER, USA fi ne lines, wrinkles, dark circles, dryness, puffi ness and If youuneven want skintone younger,. healthier-looking skin now New and in the future, don’t go a night without this revolutionary20 Patents repair Worldwide. serum. 20Estée patents Lauder’s worldwide. Advanced Night Repair. Comprehensive anti-aging like no other formula. Discover it now with a esteelauder.compersonalized skincare consultation at Estée Lauder. esteelauder.com As effective at wrinkle reduction as what THE DOCTOR PRESCRIBES.* At half the price. ©2010 P&G Olay Professional Pro-X Intensive Wrinkle Protocol. Anti-aging products born out of a collaboration of highly specialized derma- tologists and Olay. In an 8-week clinical study, the protocol was as effective as the leading wrinkle prescription at reducing the look of wrinkles. And it’s half the price when you include the cost of a dermatologist visit, the prescription, and daily use of an SPF moisturizer. You can read all about it at OlayProfessional.com Potent. Proven. Professional. *Pro-X hydrates to reduce appearance of wrinkles. The prescription takes 24 weeks to see full results and longer-term comparative results may be different. As effective at wrinkle reduction as what THE DOCTOR PRESCRIBES.* At half the price. ©2010 P&G Olay Professional Pro-X Intensive Wrinkle Protocol. Anti-aging products born out of a collaboration of highly specialized derma- tologists and Olay. In an 8-week clinical study, the protocol was as effective as the leading wrinkle prescription at reducing the look of wrinkles. And it’s half the price when you include the cost of a dermatologist visit, the prescription, and daily use of an SPF moisturizer. You can read all about it at OlayProfessional.com Potent. Proven. Professional. *Pro-X hydrates to reduce appearance of wrinkles. The prescription takes 24 weeks to see full results and longer-term comparative results may be different. WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTS COTLIAR PHOTO BY ANTHONY MAULE; STILL LIFE BY KEVIN MACKINTOSH; JACOBS BY GRAHAM SAMUELS 48 44 36 BEAUTY’S GAME CHANGERS, INCLUDING ICONOCLASTIC DISTRIBUTION STRATEGIES, ENERGETIC VISIONARIES AND FOUR MODELS WHO PERSONIFY TODAY’S AESTHETIC IDEAL. 13 THE NEXT GENERATION 28 WORLD WIDE WATCH: TEXAS 42 SOCIAL STUDIES Young Hollywood rocks the orange carpet at the An inside look at the Lone Star State, where Rounding up the Web’s most stylish visionaries: Nickelodeon 2010 Kids’ Choice Awards. women have given up the garish colors and out- The lowdown on 12 bookmark-worthy blogs and to-there hair of years past in favor of a look that’s sites that put trend analysis at your fi ngertips. 16 PEOPLE, PLACES AND sophisticated, polished and put together, leading to LIPSTICKS beauty boom times. 44 ALTERED VISIONS A top model tackles cellulite, Singapore’s latest Picture perfect? Why the practice of retouching skin care sensation and a video game for wannabe 30 BEAUTY INCOGNITO: beauty and fashion photographs is coming hairstyling whizzes. SPRING SCENTS under increasing scrutiny by legislators and In search of a perfect spring fragrance, our undercover consumers alike. 18 WHAT’S IN STORE beauty reporters fi nd that shopping for a new scent is Notable launches, including color-drenched summer no garden-variety experience. 48 GOLDEN EYE cosmetics and seven brands hitting stores now. One of the style world’s most infl uential casting 34 GROUP DYNAMICS directors, Michelle Lee has a knack for spotting 22 INSIDE OUT: RICE Glamorous goings-on from the beauty world. the next “It” girl. Here, a look insider her world A look at why rice—a staple food for more than and her work, plus the four young women who half the world—is equally as popular as a beauty 36 THE GAME CHANGERS personify her modern ideal. ingredient. 36 PATH FINDER How innovative brands are heralding the democratization of distribution, 54 A MODEL MATRIARCH 24 VISION QUEST IN as cross-shopping consumers continue to drive a Model mogul Eileen Ford chats about career blurring of traditional boundaries. highlights, her tried-and-true beauty routine and SAN FRANCISCO how the modeling industry has changed since 1946. Exploring the Bay Area through the eyes of Benefi t 38 POP CULTURE MARKET MOVERS Five heirs apparent and San Fran natives Maggie and icons who have the power to move the masses. Annie Ford Danielson. 40 THE TRANSFORMER Wal-Mart’s Carmen 26 CHART TOPPERS Bauza shares her bold beauty strategy for the A quantitative look at the month in beauty. world’s biggest retailer. ON THE COVER From left: Hind Sahli, Joan Smalls, Ilvie Wittek and Tati Cotliar, photographed for WWD Beauty Biz by Anthony Maule. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you Makeup by Ozvaldo Salvatierra and hair FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 199, NO. 97. May 7, 2010. WWD (ISSN are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First by Bok-hee, both at Streeters; manicures 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and by Sunshine Outing for Artists by Next; May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and November, and three production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and styled by Polina Aronova at Streeters. additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.