ANN ISISSUESSUE OF WOMEN’SWOM WEAR DAILY

THE LEADING EDGE ONE FOR ALL? THE DEMOCRATIZATION OF DISTRIBUTION YOUNG HOLLYWOOD AT PLAY THE ORIGINAL MOGUL TELLS ALL WAL-MART’S CHANGE OF FACE REDEFINING PICTURE FAB PERFECT FOUR BREAKOUT BEAUTIES FOR THE MODERN AGE HIND SAHLI, , ILVIE WITTEK AND TATI COTLIAR

BB1005.001.Cover.a;14.indd 1 4/28/10 3:53:41 PM *Based on unit sales of Advanced Night Repair as reported by the NPD for FY 2010 among select brands sold in fi ne department stores in the U.S. © 2010© Estée 2010 Lauder Estée LauderInc. Inc. New can’t livewithout. women aroundtheworld The #1 Repair formula over itthanyou think. Now you have morecontrol DNA damageandskinaging. “Every morningmyskinlooksandfeelsbetterthanit “My skinlooksyoungerandfeelssofter.Itjust DNA research. Inspired by 25 groundbreaking years of Advanced NightRepair esteelauder.com worldwide. 20 patents revolutionary repairserum. and inthefuture,don’tgoanightwithoutthis If youwantyounger,healthier-lookingskinnow GINGER, USA healthier, smootherandIhaveamoreevenskintone.” women lovesharingtheirsecretforbeautifulskin: imagine trustingtheirskintoanythingelse.Infact, visible signsofaginginjust4weeksandcan’t They startseeingthedramaticreductionin There’s areasonwhymillionsofwomenloveit. did thedaybefore.” CARLA, USA New For Eyes esteelauder.com atEstéeLauder consultation skincare personalized anti-aging likenootherformula. Estée Lauder’s Advanced NightRepair. Comprehensive 20Patents Worldwide. uneven skintone fi ne lines,wrinkles,darkcircles, dryness,puffi nessand in thelookofevery key signofaging aroundyour eyes With Advanced NightRepairEye, All theproven repairofour #1 Serum. Chronolux past damage. With theage-defyingpower ofourexclusive serum tohelpcontinuouslyrepairtheappearance of Estée Lauderscientistsbringyou thishigh-performance Inspired by 25 years ofgroundbreakingDNA research, women can’t live without. The onerevolutionary formulamillionsof Advanced NightRepair in thevisiblesignsofaging.

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Potent. Proven. Professional. *Pro-X hydrates to reduce appearance of wrinkles. The prescription takes 24 weeks to see full results and longer-term comparative results may be different. WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTS COTLIAR PHOTO BY ANTHONY MAULE; STILL LIFE BY KEVIN MACKINTOSH; JACOBS BY GRAHAM SAMUELS 48 44 36 BEAUTY’S GAME CHANGERS, INCLUDING ICONOCLASTIC DISTRIBUTION STRATEGIES, ENERGETIC VISIONARIES AND FOUR MODELS WHO PERSONIFY TODAY’S AESTHETIC IDEAL.

13 THE NEXT GENERATION 28 WORLD WIDE WATCH: TEXAS 42 SOCIAL STUDIES Young Hollywood rocks the orange carpet at the An inside look at the Lone Star State, where Rounding up the Web’s most stylish visionaries: 2010 Kids’ Choice Awards. women have given up the garish colors and out- The lowdown on 12 bookmark-worthy blogs and to-there hair of years past in favor of a look that’s sites that put trend analysis at your fi ngertips. 16 PEOPLE, PLACES AND sophisticated, polished and put together, leading to beauty boom times. 44 ALTERED VISIONS A top model tackles cellulite, Singapore’s latest Picture perfect? Why the practice of retouching skin care sensation and a video game for wannabe 30 BEAUTY INCOGNITO: beauty and fashion photographs is coming hairstyling whizzes. SPRING SCENTS under increasing scrutiny by legislators and In search of a perfect spring fragrance, our undercover consumers alike. 18 WHAT’S IN STORE beauty reporters fi nd that shopping for a new scent is Notable launches, including color-drenched summer no garden-variety experience. 48 GOLDEN EYE and seven brands hitting stores now. One of the style world’s most infl uential casting 34 GROUP DYNAMICS directors, Michelle Lee has a knack for spotting 22 INSIDE OUT: RICE Glamorous goings-on from the beauty world. the next “It” girl. Here, a look insider her world A look at why rice—a staple food for more than and her work, plus the four young women who half the world—is equally as popular as a beauty 36 THE GAME CHANGERS personify her modern ideal. ingredient. 36 PATH FINDER How innovative brands are heralding the democratization of distribution, 54 A MODEL MATRIARCH 24 VISION QUEST IN as cross-shopping consumers continue to drive a Model mogul Eileen Ford chats about career blurring of traditional boundaries. highlights, her tried-and-true beauty routine and how the modeling industry has changed since 1946. Exploring the Bay Area through the eyes of Benefi t 38 POP CULTURE MARKET MOVERS Five heirs apparent and San Fran natives Maggie and icons who have the power to move the masses. Annie Ford Danielson. 40 THE TRANSFORMER Wal-Mart’s Carmen 26 CHART TOPPERS Bauza shares her bold beauty strategy for the A quantitative look at the month in beauty. world’s biggest retailer. ON THE COVER From left: Hind Sahli, Joan Smalls, Ilvie Wittek and Tati Cotliar, photographed for WWD Beauty Biz by Anthony Maule. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you Makeup by Ozvaldo Salvatierra and hair FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 199, NO. 97. May 7, 2010. WWD (ISSN are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First by Bok-hee, both at Streeters; 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and by Sunshine Outing for Artists by Next; May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and November, and three production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and styled by Polina Aronova at Streeters. additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To On Sahli: Shirt by 3.1 Phillip Lim; pants PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would by Alexander Wang. On Smalls: Tank by Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box American Apparel; bra by Araks; pants by offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR . On Wittek: Cape by Chloé; shirt 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED by VPL; bra by American Apparel; shorts Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY by Alexander Wang; shoes by . On Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER Cotliar: Shirt by Stella McCartney; overalls Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow. MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY by Chloé; necklace by David Yurman. com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

6 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

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A FAIRCHILD PUBLICATION

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY ADVERTISING JENNY B. FINE EDITOR WILL SCHENCK VP CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER MELISSA MATTIACE ADVERTISING DIRECTOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR STEVE SOTTILE ADVERTISING DIRECTOR ANDREA NAGEL MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR DEBRA GOLDBERG EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BEAUTY JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET SHELLY RAPOPORT EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR BEAUTY EDITOR RON TROXELL WEST COAST DIRECTOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, MATTHEW W. EVANS BEAUTY NEWS EDITOR KATHY RIESS DIRECTOR OF FINANCE & BUSINESS BRID COSTELLO LONDON BEAUTY EDITOR OPERATIONS, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR KAREN CHIU BUSINESS MANAGER, BELISA SILVA EDITORIAL ASSISTANT FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP LISA KELLY SENIOR COPY EDITOR JANET JANOFF GENERAL MANAGER, WWD ARIELLE GARDNER EDITORIAL INTERN MARKETING/PROMOTION ART MELISSA BRECHER ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, MARKETING DANILO MATZ ART DIRECTOR HEATHER GUMBLEY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, PAMELA OLECKI CONSULTING ART DIRECTOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR DANIELLE MCMURRAY CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTORS KRISTEN WILDMAN CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (LONDON), MILES JAIME HOLLANDER SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER SOCHA (PARIS), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN BRIDGIT KEARNS MARKETING MANAGER (), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE TING WANG EVENTS & PROMOTIONS MANAGER (BERLIN), ELIZABETH THURMAN (), AMANDA BENJAMIN GELINAS DESIGN DIRECTOR KAISER AND KOJI HIRANO (TOKYO) DIANE HUNTLEY COPY DIRECTOR STEPHANIE BROWN MARKETING COORDINATOR PHOTOGRAPHERS DANIELLE STEWART MARKETING COORDINATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA PRODUCTION GENA KELLY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, PHOTO MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION ANITA BETHEL PHOTO & IMAGING DIRECTOR CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ERIN FITZGERALD IMAGING COORDINATOR KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER LEXIE MORELAND, ASHLEY LINN MARTIN PHOTO COORDINATORS CIRCULATION AP DUFFY CIRCULATION MARKETING DIRECTOR PATRICK MCCARTHY CHAIRMAN & EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, RICHARD FRANZ CIRCULATION/SALES DIRECTOR FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP JOHN CROSS FULFILLMENT DIRECTOR EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD, ASSOCIATE JAMES ROSSI MARKETING DIRECTOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP

GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO

8 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

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EDITOR’S LETTER FOLLOW THE LEADER Chances are you don’t recognize the four young women on the cover of this issue of WWD Beauty Biz. Yet. But take a good look. Their likelihood of hitting star status sometime in the not-too-distant future is high. Each was handpicked by Michelle Lee to represent her vision of beauty today. And though you may not recognize Lee’s name, either, as one of the preeminent casting directors in the style world (her clients include and , among others), she has the power and vision to determine who does—and doesn’t—personify modern-day ideals of beauty. Read about Lee and other elite casting directors, as well as our cover models, in “Golden Eye” on page 48. This issue is devoted to Lee and others like her who signifi cantly infl uence or alter the way we think about various aspects of the beauty business—in other words, the game changers. They include people like marketer Steve Stoute and hair care guru Frédéric Fekkai, two high- profi le names who are shattering traditional retail channel boundaries in a bid to democratize distribution and follow the consumer wherever she may be. Whether they and others who are pursuing similar strategies will succeed remains to be seen, but as Stoute told me when reporting “Path Finders” on page 36, one thing is certain: “Channel distribution is breaking down. The lines are blurring.”

“CHANNEL DISTRIBUTION IS BREAKING DOWN. THE LINES ARE BLURRING,” SAYS MARKETER STEVE STOUTE.

Carmen Bauza, vice president and divisional merchandise manager for beauty at Wal-Mart, is doing her part to erase distinctions. Though the mass behemoth already accounts for about one-third of most mass brands’ business, its ambitions are much more far reaching. Her vision is to combine the retailer’s value-driven traditions with a consumer-centric model that recognizes shoppers are willing to trade up, as well as across and down. “Customers were asking, ‘Why are you making me go to another store to buy prestige beauty when I’m already shopping in your store?’” Bauza recalls. The strategy she has developed to grow Wal-Mart’s beauty business, which she shares with us in “The Transformer” on page 40, is designed to answer it. Our “Game Changers” package also includes a look at fi ve pop culture icons who have the power to move markets, as well as the industry’s top chief executives answering the question, ‘How is the beauty game changing?’ Their answers, starting on page 36, might surprise you. Finally, in August, WWD Beauty Biz will publish our annual list of the world’s 100 biggest beauty companies. If your company has not been included in the past, but might have a beauty business large enough for consideration (last year, the cutoff was approximately $110 million), please send an e-mail with basic company information to [email protected]. Include the parent company’s name, location, brands it manufactures and wholesale beauty sales for the 2009 calendar year. Please note that we do not count functional bar soaps, razors, toothpaste, food, medicine, vitamins or detergents as part of beauty volume. For any other inquiry, or feedback about the magazine, please e-mail me at jenny_fi [email protected]. —JENNY B. FINE PHOTO BY ANITA CALERO/TRUNK ARCHIVES

10 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

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JONAS BROTHERS PHOTO BY FRANK TRAPPER/CORBIS; ARGOTA, LOVATO, PERRY, SALDANA BY STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE; COSGROVE BY JEFF KRAVI YOUTH QUAKE With their long, tousled hair and gently glowing faces, the beauties of young Hollywood showed they’ve got what it takes to succeed in the majors at the Nickelodeon 2010 Kids’ Choice Awards.

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NADJI JETER NOAH MUNCK THE NEXT GENERATION Young Hollywood came out for its annual play date at the Nickelodeon 2010 Kids’ Choice Awards. Actresses such as Miranda JUSTIN BIEBER Cosgrove, star of iCarly; , star of True Jackson, and Selena Gomez, star of Wizards of Waverly Place, proved that the RYAN SHECKLER kids are more than just all right. They’re KATY PERRY downright gorgeous. Beautywise, a clear mandate emerged on the bright orange carpet: For the girls, long, PIXIE LOTT tousled hair with rosy makeup to give a fresh-faced glow dominated (the perfect accent to the fl irty Crayola-colored frocks most chose), while for the boys, the ASHLEY ARGOTA look was undone but done, hair styled—but only so much. The NICK, JOE AND KEVIN JONAS better-established (and slightly older) attendees took more risks: ZOE SALDANA RIHANNA To wit, both Katy Perry and Rihanna opted for playful, bright fuchsia lips (all the better to see you from the stage with, my dear), VICTORIA JUSTICE while Zoe Saldana’s dressed- down chic proved she’s one of the coolest kids in town.

SAMMI HANRATTY

MILEY CYRUS

NIKKI REED WWD BEAUTY BIZ 14 JENNETTE MCCURDY SELENA GOMEZ

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PPL RAISING THE BAR Vividly colored fl acons line the sleek white walls of Skin Inc. Supplement Bar, but this establishment doesn’t concoct cosmopolitans and gimlets. Instead, SABLES D’OLONNE BEACH PHOTO BY PAWEL WYSOCKI/HEMIS/CORBIS the Singapore-based retailer, started by ex-marketing executive Sabrina Tan, serves up personalized cocktails of skin serums. Working under the tag line of “lose the hype and gain the science,” SLIM Tan tapped a Japanese research and development fi rm to formulate nine fragrance- and paraben-free PICKINGS serums, loaded with seaweed beads Former encapsulating active ingredients such Vogue cover as collagen, coenzyme Q10 and hyaluronic acid. At the store, customers are given a skin analysis and then are girl Nancy custom-formulated a trio of serums dubbed My Daily Dose for around $143. Decanted into brightly colored vials, Donahue is the blends aim to treat a myriad of complaints, such as uneven skin tone, sensitivity, acne and aging. Thus far, four Skin Inc. bars have opened in choice Singapore locations—the latest is in the new Ion Orchard luxury retail mall— following in and the concept went international in April with Bars in Vietnam and Brunei. In-store treatments, such as the footsteps peels and anticellulite therapy, and body products were recently added to the lineup, too. —STEPHANIE EPIRO of model- cum–beauty entrepreneurs such as BODY OF WORK with a new device she says will Note to all job seekers: The French seaside town Sables eradicate cellulite—once and for d’Olonne has teamed up with and is now accepting all. “When I was modeling in my applications for the ultimate summer job: Sunscreen applier. 20s, I had more cellulite than I As part of a promotion called “Operation Creamers,” an do now,” laughs Donahue, now ad to recruit young people appeared in the local and 52, whose modeling heyday was during the late Seventies and national press on April 12. Within fi ve days, the event’s early Eighties, when she did “a organizers received more than 500 video applications. ton” of editorial for magazines THE PERFECT A town spokesman admitted that a lot of the videos were such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar funny, but said hamming it up isn’t enough to secure the and Glamour. After she retired, BLEND gig, which will pay about $6,735 for six weeks of work. she moved to Boston, where James Bond famously prefers them “Candidates need to be very motivated and serious she became a chef and personal shaken, but cocktail connoisseurs in trainer, and today teaches yoga London like their martinis served with about their mission,” he said, explaining the job entails a fl ourish—as well as a fragrant and distributing free Ambre Solaire samples, giving sun- and Pilates. Several years ago, fl avorsome twist. The Connaught Bar, related advice and rubbing sunscreen onto the backs of she discovered a massage a cozy hot spot in the chic Mayfair vacationers. There should be an ample audience. “People device for relieving soreness hotel, recently introduced a martini and edema, and discovered it trolley, which involves the classic will never do without sun,” said a Garnier spokeswoman. cocktail being whipped up on a mobile improved the look of dimply skin, “Sun is the happiness pill.” —CHANTAL GOUPIL Art Deco–style drinks cabinet by a too. Based on it, she developed white-gloved mixologist next to guests’ the HoneyBelle Body Buffer, tables. Guests are presented with a which uses “random orbital selection of seven homemade bitters, which they smell before having them oscillation” to stretch and break incorporated into their drink. With the dermal bands around fat cells fl avors including lavender, coriander, that cause cellulite. It is meant cardamom, ginger, grapefruit, licorice to be used on dry skin twice a and vanilla, the bitters could easily be mistaken for a miniature fragrance day for five to 10 minutes and organ. “We wanted to create a cocktail results are supposed to appear with a difference,” says Santino in 30 days or less. Currently, the Cicciari, the bar’s manager. “With $395 device is available online; everything you order, there is a ‘wow’ factor.” The martinis, priced from $23 plans call for distribution to to $46, are stirred in a Japanese crystal expand to upscale spas, salons jar, which was conceived to conserve and specialty stores as early as freezing temperatures, and are served May or June, with first-year sales in engraved crystal glasses—and have quickly become the Connaught’s most expected to reach $7 million. popular cocktail. —BRID COSTELLO —MATTHEW W. EVANS

16 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

BB1005.016-17.PPL.a;10.indd 16 4/26/10 5:15:21 PM BEAUTY AND THE 2010 beauty BEAUTIFUL GAME insider’s choice Come June 11, all eyes will be on South Africa, as the 2010 World Cup kicks off. South Africa isn’t just a soccer paradise, however. With a fl oral kingdom ranked as awards the third most biodiverse in the world next to Indonesia and Brazil, the country is also a treasure trove of natural ingredients. Rooibos, aloe ferox, marula and fynbos

SABLESD’OLONNE BEACH PHOTOPAWEL BYWYSOCKI/HEMIS/CORBIS are just some of the plants indigenous to the country that have made their way into beauty formulations. Here, four standout homegrown lines. —BAMBINA WISE

AFRICOLOGY THERAVINE The eco-friendly Africology range Developed in the heart 2010 CEW is made from 100 percent natural of the Stellenbosch essential oils and plant extracts. Its Winelands, TheraVine star ingredient is aloe ferox, which fuses science and nature, is touted as nature’s answer to and draws primarily on Beauty Botox and is found only in the Cape the extract of the local region, where it grows in the wild. It Pinotage grape. The line’s is blended with marula and olive oil star product is UltraVine Rich Collagen Cream awards extracts in Africology’s star product, ($64), which contains trylagen (a peptide and Aloe Ferox Serum ($30), which claims protein combination) blended with shea butter, to instantly lift and plump the skin. sandalwood and lavender.

CHARLOTTE RHYS ENVIRON One of the country’s best known Created by local celebrity plastic luxury bath and body brands, surgeon Des Fernandes, Environ Charlotte Rhys recently launched harnesses the powers of vitamin A an antiaging skin care range to to combat aging and the damaging coincide with its 10th anniversary. effects of the sun and environment. 220 Million The Spa Serum ($55) contains The Ionzyme C-Quence range a cocktail of antioxidants, combines vitamin A with Press Impressions cyclodextrin complexes and antioxidants, while the lyposystem formulations, and recently launched claims to work directly on the C-Quence range basal layer of the epidermis, purports to refi ne stimulating skin repair, improving the surface of the elasticity and increasing collagen skin and reduce Power at Retail production. uneven skin tone. THE PERFECT CUT First, the salon world busted onto the reality TV scene. Now, the professional hair care industry is entering virtual reality with a video game that allows aspiring stylists to hone their skills on a Nintendo Wii. Making its debut at last month’s America’s Beauty Show in Chicago was a new video game, “Busy Scissors,” a hairstyling-simulation game published by Little Orbit LLC. The game takes place in a Hollywood salon and a player succeeds by meeting the needs of his or her demanding Find Out WhO Wins clientele with the goal of ultimately rising from the position of junior assistant to salon owner by perming, coloring, shampooing, cutting and styling clients’ hair to their liking. The game’s developer, Manifest Oranj, May 21, 2010 spent months at a Toni & Guy Academy, using the stylists and educators there as a template. Little Orbit also teamed up with Unilever, Tigi’s parent, to feature virtual items from its Bed Head, Tigi Pro and Tigi Buy tiCkEts nOW Colour product lines that are used in the styling of hair throughout the game. —ANDREA NAGEL www.cew.org

BB1005.016-17.PPL.a;10.indd 17 4/26/10 5:16:11 PM What’s In Store

01 E.L.F. MINERAL FOR FLAWLESS, SHINE- FACE FREE SKIN, THESE Containing conditioning silica, this formula combats oil SMOOTHING PRIMERS production and fi ne lines and AND FOUNDATIONS FRESH promises a soft, satiny fi nish. HARNESS A BEVY OF ($6; Target) NATURAL AND HIGH- 02 NARS PRO-PRIME SKIN SMOOTHING FACE PREP TECH INGREDIENTS. This matte-fi nish skin perfecter BY BELISA SILVA CANVAS harnesses color-enhancing PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHNNY BUENAVENTURA polymers and mineral STYLED BY STEPHEN CAPUTO powders, and also serves as a protective pre-makeup barrier. ($30; Nars counters)

03 MURAD SKIN PERFECTING PRIMER DEWY FINISH This oil-free primer brightens and conceals with a universal tint for all skin tones. It is part of Murad’s Hybrids line, designed to simultaneously treat and camoufl age skin imperfections. ($35; , Ulta)

04 MALLY BEAUTY PERFECT PREP EYE GEL Makeup artist Mally Roncal introduces a rose-hued under-eye gel to tighten and stimulate microcirculation. The blend of caffeine, red algae and quartz promises a line-less makeup application. ($45; QVC)

05 LA PRAIRIE ANTI-AGING HYDRA TINT SPF 20 This peptide-infused tinted moisturizer hydrates with mango butter, sunfl ower seed oil and glycerin. White licorice improves skin tone, while a proprietary cellular complex helps stimulate cell renewal. ($100; Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Saks)

06 TARTE RECREATE SILICONE-FREE PRIMER This antiaging primer, rich in jojoba seed oil, peat extract and vitamin E, purports to minimize pores and increase fi rmness for a makeup-ready surface. ($32; Sephora)

07 DUWOP FLIGHT STICK Created for fatigued travelers, this antioxidant-packed cooling stick re-hydrates and fi rms tired skin. Available in one universally fl attering shade, it also contains conditioning hyaluronic acid. ($28; Sephora)

08 LANCÔME TEINT IDOLE FRESH WEAR 18 HR SHINE-FREE MAKEUP SPF 15 SUNSCREEN This medium-coverage contains coated pigments and a proprietary oil-fi ghting technology for 18 hours of shine control. ($32; Lancôme counters, lancome-usa.com)

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BB1005.018-21.WIS.a;17.indd 18 4/27/10 6:05:38 PM NEW Fountain of Youth? “ I couldn’t believe it. My skin looks softer and younger.”

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01 VMV HYPOALLERGENICS FROM HAIR REPAIR TO RE-EVERYTHING CREAM FASHION-INSPIRED ANTI-AGE PRIMARY TREATMENT MAKEUP, A HOST OF VMV Hypoallergenics’ Re- DIRECTIONAL LINES NEW Everything range includes this antioxidant-rich cream that ARE LAUNCHING blends organic virgin coconut FROM BEAUTY oil, undiluted glycolic acid and a collagen-producing kinetin VETERANS AND growth factor. ($80; Bliss) NEWCOMERS ALIKE. RELEASES 02 ADVANCED HOME BY BELISA SILVA ACTIVES BRAZILIAN PEEL PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHNNY BUENAVENTURA STYLED BY STEPHEN CAPUTO Featuring 30 percent glycolic acid buffered by Brazilian- sourced açaí, this peel promises professional strength results. A deactivating time-released neutralizer kicks in after 10 minutes, ensuring its safety for home use. ($78; Sephora)

03 LIFT LAB SKIN REGENERATION LIFT & MOISTURIZE DAILY CREAM Lift Lab comprises four items that mimic the natural cell protection mechanisms found in subarctic deep-sea fi sh and wintering organisms. This moisturizer also contains a patent-pending cell-stimulating protein complex. ($125; theliftlab.com)

04 KEN PAVES SELF HELP A SHINING SOUL VOLUME- FRIENDLY GLOSSER Jessica Simpson’s celebrity hairstylist Ken Paves’ newest venture is a seven-item hair care line. The shine-increasing serum harnesses low molecular weight silicones for a buildup-free fi nish. ($15; QVC)

05 TOPSHOP MAKE UP SKIN TINT The British-based fashion powerhouse’s new makeup range includes 97 core products and additional seasonal trend collections. This creamy tinted moisturizer is available in four shades. ($20; Topshop)

06 SCIENTIFIC KENNETH BEER MD BRIGHTENING SERUM Certifi ed in dermatology and dermapathology, Kenneth Beer designed his line to treat each layer of skin. The Brightening Serum delivers Swiss Alps–sourced botanical extracts to lighten discoloration. ($98; Idealskin.com)

07 SOFT CORP SOFT TOUCH SOFTENING CRÈME BODY WASH From infl uential indie retailer Robin Coe-Hutshing comes Soft Corp, dedicated to skin softening. This body wash contains marshmallow root extract, shea butter and coconut oil to moisturize, and fi ber-optic particles for an instant glow. ($22; HSN)

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BB1005.018-21.WIS.a;17.indd 20 4/27/10 6:06:16 PM What’s In Store

01 DEBORAH LIPPMANN CREATED JUICY JELLY-INSPIRED WITH DREE HEMINGWAY SHADES AND AN A semi-sheer shade cocreated with model-of-the-moment ARRAY OF BRIGHT Dree Hemingway. ($16; Barneys) CANDY GLAZES PAINT A VIVID 02 PICTURE FOR SUMMER. DE-SLICK IN A TUBE BY BELISA SILVA MATTIFYING GEL PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHNNY BUENAVENTURA Formulated with veegum, this LAND STYLED BY STEPHEN CAPUTO tightens pores and controls oil production. ($28; Macy’s)

03 OPI NAIL LACQUER IN WHO THE SHREK ARE YOU? This ogre-inspired shade pops against a tan. ($8.50; mass retailers)

04 FUSION BEAUTY LIP- FUSION MICRO COLLAGEN LIP PLUMP IN PRINCESS A portion of sales from this will benefi t Fusion Beauty’s Kiss Away Poverty campaign. ($29; Ulta)

05 BRILLIANT LIP SHINE IN LASER A bright pop of neon inspired by a seaside holiday. ($27; Chanel counters)

06 MAC SUPERGLASS IN CHERRY ELECTRIC Snowfl ake-shaped helicone pearls deliver super shine. ($18; MAC counters)

07 LONDON LASTING FINISH PRO IN POSH UV fade protection and a time- release technology enhance shine. ($3.99; mass retailers)

08 TOPSHOP MAKE UP GLOSS IN STATEMENT A jelly bean–hued gloss gives a summery pop of color. ($10; Topshop)

09 JOSIE MARAN LIP AND CHEEK STAIN MAGIC MARKER IN JIVE The sodium hyaluronate and glycerin-rich formula gives buildable color. ($19; Sephora)

10 MODE NEW YORK LIP GLAZE IN SHEER WILDBERRY Sweet almond and essential oils deliver a wet-look fi nish. ($4; mass retailers)

11 SALLY HANSEN INSTA-DRY NAIL COLOR IN SEA BREEZE This polish gives full coverage with one coat. ($4.95; mass retailers)

12 YVES SAINT LAURENT LASTING-RADIANCE SMOOTHING IN NO. 9 MOGADOR BLUE Synthesized mica and silicone powders give this shadow vibrancy. ($30; YSL counters)

13 SONIA KASHUK DOUBLE ZIP CLUTCH A travel-friendly makeup bag with a fanciful fl oral pattern. ($12.99; Target)

BB1005.018-21.WIS.a;17.indd 21 4/27/10 6:06:55 PM Inside Out

Rice has sustained cultures in Asia, Africa, India and A number of new spring offerings look to harness its the Americas and is a staple food for more than half the multiple benefi ts. ’s Lash Plumping Mascara earth’s population. contains rice wax extracted from the bran, while ’s The fi rst documented evidence of rice’s existence Smart Shade Antiaging SPF 20 delivers rice RICE is from about 2800 B.C. as a decree authorizing rice protein for skin fi rming. Rice protein also stars in Redken’s planting by a Chinese emperor. From there, rice plants Coverfusion Low Ammonia 100 Percent Coverage Color traveled the world. According to Judith Carney, author of Cream hair color, providing conditioning benefi ts. Rice

Rice has played a pivotal role CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTOS PRODUCT Black Rice: The African of Rice Cultivation in the bran is used in both Elemental Herbology’s Reparative in the evolution of human Americas, West Africans fi rst domesticated rice some Serum for the Eyes and Rilastil’s Multirepair Serum. 3,500 years ago and the grain arrived on American shores Amala’s Purify Blue Lotus Purifying Gel Moisturizer history. This season, a batch only around 1680. (Carney adds that First Lady Michelle contains organic rice germ for hydration, while Kenzo Obama’s great-great-grandfather was an enslaved rice Parfums attempts to capture the relaxing scent of rice of nutritive launches features grower until the Civil War.) steam in its Perfumed Skin Care Water in Sensual Rice. Throughout many parts of Asia, rice hulls were used as All rice starts as brown rice, housed in indigestible extracts from the versatile construction material and for rope and papermaking. Rice hulls made of silica. Grains become white only after bran oil, rich in vitamin E, squalene and micronutrients, being “polished,” the process of stripping away the cereal grain. has a nutty taste, and is often used for cooking, heralded protein-rich, brown-colored bran layers. “There is so for its cholesterol-reducing abilities. Rice is also used to much demand for white rice that the nutritive bran has BY BELISA SILVA make various beers, wines, sake and a Japanese desert become a popular by-product used for food and nonfood PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE called mochi. purposes,” says Carney. There are more than 50,000 Because rice fl our is starch free, it is particularly known varieties of wild and cultivated rice, most of which popular for infant formulas and cosmetics. Around 1900, take between three to six months to be harvested. Rice rice powder replaced the alabaster-hued, lead-based needs ample water and is often cultivated on fl oodplains makeup used by geishas. Since then, it’s become in places where rain patterns are irregular. a beauty staple. Rice bran also serves as a good “Growing rice requires the organization of people moisturizer and exfoliant, because it improves blood and cultures,” says Carney. “The birth of the rice trade circulation, promotes cell turnover and reduces dark symbolizes the shift when people began to manipulate circles with its antioxidant properties. the landscape for food production.”

RICE DREAMS 01 Redken Cover Fusion Low Ammonia 100 Percent Coverage Color Cream, redken.com for salons. 02 Yves Rocher Lash Plumping Mascara, $18. 03 Almay Smart Shade Anti-Aging Concealer SPF 20, $8.99. 04 Rilastil Multirepair Serum With Filling Effect Lifting and Repairing Action With Biotech Complex, $225. 05 Amala Purify Blue Lotus Purifying Gel Moisturizer, $68. 06 Kenzo Parfums Perfumed Skin Care Water in Sensual Rice MMM, $45. 07 Elemental Herbology Eye Elixir Reparative Serum for the Eyes, $57.

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BB1005.022.IO.RICE.a;12.indd 22 4/27/10 4:40:35 PM Advertisement Muscenone by Firmenich The Magic Inside softness PhotograPhs by albert Delamour, www.albertDelamour.com

Pierre Negrin Honorine Blanc Ilias Ermenidis Frank Völkl Annie Buzantian Harry Frémont Perfumer Perfumer Perfumer Perfumer Master Perfumer Master Perfumer

It’s not always possible to pinpoint the exact moment that an Master Perfumer Annie Buzantian agrees. “Muscenone is one entirely new way of doing something begins, but sometimes it is. of my favorite molecules because it enhances other fragrance “one of those moments happened,” says Master Perfumer Harry materials. Associated with a floral note, it makes that note warmer and Frémont, “with Firmenich’s discovery of a new molecule, a blazing enhances the solar quality of the flower; with a citrus, it reveals jewel called Muscenone [pronounced: moose-sa-known].” the freshness.” From this innovation, a new signature of softness was born that Muscenone is a quintessential bottom note, described as giving a offered a modern way to express sensuality in fine perfumery. shimmering, powdery feel. It enhances long lastingness and Frémont observes “perfumery is a combination of naturals and sensuality, leaving a captivating signature on hair and skin. molecules, with each playing an Honorine Blanc says “Muscenone, important role. naturals add richness which was designed to give a to the texture and smooth out the soft, light, sensual, ethereal – rhythmic warmth to perfumes, edge. new molecules provide these are the adjectives perfumers creates a spark of unparalleled the breakthrough.” softness.” To Ilias ermenidis, Today, the perfumers’ palette is the use to describe Muscenone. Muscenone is “a little like a second result of a long-term investment in skin, very feminine, round-shaped advanced research and sustainability. Breakthrough molecules like and sensual. It’s something very personal.” Muscenone allow perfumers to add true magic to their formulas. Like the rarest of jewels, Muscenone has within it a magnetic “The challenge of modern perfumery,” according to Pierre negrin, force, some even call it an invisible magic that is vital to the “isn’t finding good new materials, it’s identifying exceptional ones.” signature of a perfume. Frank Völkl concludes “the invisible magic of Muscenone allows the perfumer to breathe life into A Truly Exceptional Ingredient our clients’ vision and dreams.” There’s no question that one of the most exceptional ingredients in the history of fragrance is Muscenone created by Firmenich. clearly it’s so. Vision Quest: San Francisco CORBIS; BENEFIT PRODUCT BY GEORGE CHINSEE SAN FRANCISCO PHOTO BY ED DARACK/SCIENCE FACTION/

MODERN CRAFT San Franciscans love farmers markets and thrift store finds—anything with a unique history. For the sisters, that translates into a look that’s nostalgic, but IN SAN FRANCISCO not vintage: “Beautywise, we love a nod to the past, WITH MAGGIE AND ANNIE FORD DANIELSON like a Thirties matte brown eye shadow, BY BELISA SILVA but worn with a natural aggie and Annie Ford Danielson have brow to make it modern.” beauty in their blood. Daughters of M Benefi t’s co-founder Jean Ford and nieces of co-founder Jane Ford, the girls grew up immersed in the business, watching as some of the brand’s fi rst products—now bestsellers—were born in their own Annie and Maggie kitchen. Now leading Benefi t’s next generation charge Ford Danielson into the future, the duo is helping inject a younger sensibility into the brand, using inspirations from their native San Francisco. “There’s a focus on a fresh face and a healthy, outdoor lifestyle here,” says Maggie. “There’s a freedom to be who you are.” In July, Benefi t will introduce two palettes created by the sisters, one of which showcases Maggie’s affi nity for the eclectic, the other, Annie’s classic taste. “We’re drawn to things that have a story behind them,” says Annie, who prefers consignment shops to department stores. Here, they hit their hometown to track trends ACTIVITY CENTER and talk nature, neighborhoods and one-of-a-kind fi nds. San Francisco takes its weekends very seriously. “We love to URBAN SOPHISTICATE partake in outdoor activities “Walking along the Embarcadero or and it’s easy to get newly developed South of Market, away from the bustling the architecture stands out with its downtown,” say the Ford clean lines and gray and Danielsons. “Exploring silver color palette. costal hikes, beaches The aesthetic is very and neighborhood parks architectural and inspires us to use colors new,” say the sisters, from the cool who source the city’s vegetation and landscapes, buildings for makeup especially in the spring.” colors and inspiration. 24 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

BB1005.024.VQ.SANFRANCISCO.b;19.indd 24 4/28/10 3:13:03 PM Brightening so powerful, it’s a force of nature.

NEW

Clarins technology has harnessed the potent brightening power of Sea Lily extract for hyper pigmentation control and skin tone correction. This lightweight serum helps stop melanin in its tracks, before it can be released into your skin’s surface. Gently, efficiently―scientifically. Clinical tests prove that in only 4 weeks, age spots are reduced by ⅓. Day after day, skin re- gains clarity, brightness, a more even tone. Darkness fades. Wrinkles and fine lines appear smoothed. Your radiance is revealed. , the European leader in luxury skin care. Find out more at www.clarins.com Buzz-O-Meter

*Allure; Cosmopolitan; InStyle; Elle; Essence; Fitness; Glamour; Harper’s Bazaar; Lucky; O, The Oprah Bzzz Magazine; Redbook; Self; Shape; Vanity Fair; Vogue CREDIT WATCH Beauty editors fi lled the pages AVEENO 31 PT. of May magazines with product- AVON 17 PT. PANTONE THOMAS BOOK BY IANNACCONE loaded editors’ choice awards, BENEFIT 17 PT. a kaleidoscope of colorful CHANEL 36 PT. summer makeup and a host of 19 PT. sun-protecting skin care. L’Oréal Paris and Olay were big winners COVER GIRL 26 PT. in the awards stakes, while Estée 20 PT. Lauder scored big with a full- ESTÉE LAUDER 19 PT. page story in Vogue introducing LANCÔME 30 PT. its newest spokesmodels. L’ORÉAL PARIS 53 PT. and Chanel garnered MAC 36 PT. a lot of ink, too, for their new lines. Here, we tallied up 22 PT. product mentions in 15 leading NARS 22 PT. publications,* not including cover 41 PT. credits, promotional offers or OLAY 26 PT. fashion story credits. At right, the PHYSICIANS 17 PT. 17 brands that garnered the most FORMULA editorial ink. REVLON 51 PT. CHART TOPPERS From chief executive salaries to beauty product editorial credits in May magazines, more is more. Here, a quantitative look AT THE MONTH IN BEAUTY. COMPILED BY BELISA SILVA AND JENNY B. FINE

Shopping Havens PANTONE’S TOP SEVEN Source: Pantone The largest cities in the U.S. aren’t necessarily where consumers are COSMETICS COLORS FOR spending their prestige beauty dollars, according to The NPD Group. SPRING 2011 “There is an interesting balance of color—it’s not all vibrantly bright While New York and Los Angeles are America’s two biggest cities or all muted,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director, Pantone (and beauty markets), the cities that follow demonstrate interesting Color Institute, of the top cosmetics hues for next spring. “The most interesting change is the importance that the greenish yellow family, geographical differences. as with Chardonnay, has gained. Having pink as the second color, Source: The NPD Group, January to December 2009 versus the year prior. used in eye makeup as well as the face and lips, is signifi cant.”

CITY POPULATION BEAUTY FRAGRANCE SKIN MAKEUP RANK VOLUME RANK CARE RANK CHARDONNAY RANK RANK PANTONE 13-0633

New York 01 01 01 01 01 PHLOX PINK PANTONE 17-2627 Los Angeles 02 02 02 02 02 San Francisco 05 03 04 03 03 FROSTED ALMOND PANTONE 13-1012 Chicago 03 04 03 04 04 Washington, DC 08 05 06 05 05 DELPHINIUM BLUE PANTONE 16-4519 Miami 15 06 05 07 08 Philadelphia 04 07 07 08 06 APRICOT ORANGE PANTONE 17-1353 Boston 09 08 10 06 07 Houston 10 09 08 09 09 LAVENDER PANTONE 15-3817 Dallas 06 10 09 Not in Not in Top 10 Top 10 LOLLIPOP Atlanta 07 Not in Not in 10 10 PANTONE 18-1764 Top 10 Top 10

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BB1005.026-027.buzz.a;13.indd 26 4/29/10 1:45:04 PM Buzz-O-Meter

NOTE: BECAUSE OF VESTING SCHEDULES AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE FLUCTUATING STOCK PRICES, STOCK AND OPTION AWARDS WEREN’T NECESSARILY REALIZED BY THE EXECUTIVES, BUT WERE COMPENSATION “EXPENSED” BY THEIR EMPLOYERS. COMPILED BY MATTHEW W. EVANS

PANTONE THOMAS BOOK BY IANNACCONE Given the malaise that has permeated the U.S. economy since 2008, 9. INC. chief executive offi cers at seven U.S. public beauty fi rms saw decreases E. Scott Beattie, chairman, president and chief in total pay during their most recent fi scal years, versus six ceo’s, who executive offi cer saw fl at, nominal and mid- to high-double-digit increases in their total Fiscal Year Ended: June 30, 2009 compensation. Here, the top beauty ceo salaries of companies that are Base Salary: $805,000 publicly traded in the U.S. Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $872,606 Other Compensation: $207,421 Source: Firms’ most recent Form DEF 14A (proxy statement) fi led with the Securities and Exchange Commission by April 21. TOTAL: $1,885,027 TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Down 23.3 % 1. JOHNSON & JOHNSON 5. ESTÉE LAUDER COS. INC.

William C. Weldon, chairman and chief executive officer William P. Lauder, former chief executive officer Fiscal Year Ended: January 3, 2010 Fiscal Year Ended: June 30, 2009 10. REVLON INC. Base Salary: Base Salary: $1,802,500 $1,500,000 Alan T. Ennis, president and chief executive offi cer Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $11,600,601 $4,008,440 Fiscal Year Ended: December 31, 2009 Other Compensation: Other Compensation: $17,410,743 $552,371 Base Salary: $781,558 TOTAL: TOTAL: $30,813,844 $6,060,811 Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $12,500 TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Up 5.8 % Down 34.2 % Other Compensation: $517,739 Note: The fi rm’s current president and chief executive offi cer, TOTAL: $1,311,797 Fabrizio Freda, who was president and chief operating offi cer during the fi scal year, received a base salary of $1,300,000; TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Up 13.3 % 2. PROCTER & GAMBLE CO. bonus, stock and option awards of $3,254,440, and other Note: Ennis became president and chief executive offi cer on compensation of $1,073,950, for a total of $5,628,390, up May 1, 2009. The fi rm’s former president and chief executive A.G. Lafl ey, former chairman and chief executive officer 103.9 percent from the prior year. offi cer, David L. Kennedy, received a base salary of $867,500 Fiscal Year Ended: June 30, 2009 and other compensation of $137,593, for a total of $1,005,093 Base Salary: $1,800,000 during the fi scal year, down 66.9 percent from the prior year. Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $21,148,562 6. ALBERTO-CULVER CO. Other Compensation: $656,891 11. PARLUX FRAGRANCES INC. TOTAL: $23,605,453 V. James Marino, president and chief executive officer Neil J. Katz, former chairman and chief executive offi cer TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Up 0.3 % Fiscal Year Ended: September 30, 2009 Fiscal Year Ended: March 31, 2009 e Note: The firm’s current chairman, president and chief Base Salary: $937,500 Base Salary: $550,000 executive officer, Robert A. McDonald, who was chief oper- Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $1,429,686 Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $104,118 ating officer during the fiscal year, received a base salary of Other Compensation: $1,713,209 Other Compensation: $23,408 $1,000,000; bonus, stock and option awards of $5,604,910, TOTAL: $4,080,395 TOTAL: $677,526 and other compensation of $223,486, for a total of TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Up 1.3 % TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Down 17.3 % $6,828,396, down 37.7 percent from the prior year. Note: Katz resigned in January and was succeeded by company founder Frederick E. Purches. 7. BARE ESCENTUALS INC. 3. LIMITED BRANDS INC. 12. PHYSICIANS FORMULA Leslie A. Blodgett, chief executive offi cer Leslie H. Wexner, chairman and chief executive officer HOLDINGS INC. Fiscal Year Ended: December 28, 2008 Fiscal Year Ended: January 30, 2010 Base Salary: $702,691 Ingrid Jackel, chief executive offi cer Base Salary: $1,924,000 Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $2,084,965 Fiscal Year Ended: December 31, 2009 Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $2,390,121 Other Compensation: $29,410 Base Salary: $350,896 Other Compensation: $6,507,849 TOTAL: $2,817,066 Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $214,380 TOTAL: $10,821,970 TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Down 18.7 % Other Compensation: $45,274 TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Up 56.6 % TOTAL: $610,550 TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Down 17.4 %

4. INC. 8. NU SKIN ENTERPRISES INC. 13. INTER PARFUMS INC.

Andrea Jung, chairman and chief executive officer M. Truman Hunt, president and chief executive offi cer Jean Madar, chief executive offi cer Fiscal Year Ended: December 31, 2009 Fiscal Year Ended: December 31, 2008 Fiscal Year Ended: December 31, 2008 Base Salary: $1,375,000 Base Salary: $673,077 Base Salary: $400,000 Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $2,395,162 Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $941,092 Bonus, Stock and Option Awards: $98,000 Other Compensation: $5,685,282 Other Compensation: $319,852 Other Compensation: $0 TOTAL: $9,455,444 TOTAL: $1,934,021 TOTAL: $498,000 TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Down 56.4 % TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Up 44 % TOTAL CHANGE VERSUS PRIOR YEAR: Down 20.2 %

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BB1BB1005.026-027.buzz.a;13.indd005.026-027.buzz.a;13.indd 2727 44/29/10/29/10 11:45:11:45:11 PM World Wide Watch TEXAS

WW ORBIS; SPINDLETOP OILDAVID BY MUENCH/CORBIS TTY IMAGES; AUSTIN CITY LIMITS FESTIVAL BY STEVEN C.

Quite a few of Texas’ 24.8 million residents are newcomers, as the state has seen a large net increase in population over the last few years, with professionals fl ooding the major cities where jobs had been readily available until the recent economic downturn. In fact, more Americans have moved to Texas than to any other state, with almost half a million arriving TEXAS between July 2008 and July 2009, according to the EVERYTHING IS BIGGER IN TEXAS, IT SEEMS, U.S. Census Bureau. That doesn’t even start to add the expats and immigrants from all over the world who are INCLUDING THE BEAUTY BUSINESS, WHICH HAS living and working in the Lone Star State. Despite the WEATHERED THE RECESSION BETTER THAN recession, these Texas residents are still free spending when it comes to appearance and well-being.

ELSEWHERE IN THE U.S. According to figures from Sites on MITCHELL/EPA/CORBIS; ROUTE 66 BY PHILIPPE RENAULT/HEMIS/CORBIS; COWBOY BY CINEMAPHOTO/CORBIS; CHEVY BY RICHARD HAMILTON SMITH/C

Texas, supplied by the state comptroller’s BOOTS & SADDLERY SIGN PHOTO BY BO ZAUNDERS/CORBIS; DALLAS HOUSE BY CBS PHOTO ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; CHEERLEADER BY BRIAN BAHR/GE office, Texans spent a cool $6.6 billion Capital: Austin Currency: Dollar (USD) on hair, skin and nail care services; Largest City: Houston Population: 24,782,302 grooming; cosmetics; beauty supplies, and fragrance last year, apart from drug Offi cial Language: English Area: 268,581 square miles store and department store sales. That put the state second only to California in beauty spending and ahead BY LYNNE RICHARDSON of New York. Research fi rm The NPD Group estimates $604 million was spent on prestige Mention “Texas beauty” to most product sales at department stores people on the planet and the phrase in that period. The Dallas-Fort will conjure up caricatures with Worth area leads with 28 percent bouffant hair, big shoulders and of sales, with greater Houston sequins, from the days of the TV show Dallas. In accounting for 25 percent. fact, nothing could be further from the truth. All indications are that From the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex in this year isn’t showing any the north, via Austin and Houston, down to San letup, either. Texans love to Antonio on the Rio Grande River, near the border shop, and there are malls, with Mexico, Texas’s major cities are populated shopping centers and with well-traveled and well-educated folk, who are retail areas in abundance exceptionally well turned out. across the state catering

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BB1005.028-29.WWW.a;20.indd 28 4/26/10 3:47:13 PM of ’s sales, nationwide. AUSTIN, THE CAPITAL OF NATURAL “THEY LEARN In fact, the Neiman Marcus fl agship in Dallas was the fi rst store The state capital has a special, funky vibe, which it takes pains to SKIN CARE EARLY outside New York to carry Bobbi embrace and cultivate. Despite the teeming government offices Brown 20 years ago, and “it’s still IN TEXAS,” SAYS and computer maker Dell’s headquarters on the outskirts, Austin’s

ORBIS; SPINDLETOP OILDAVID BY MUENCH/CORBIS the number-one brand there,” says ambience is set by the University of Texas and the healthy indie music MAUREEN CASE. Case. “Neiman’s also does the most

TTY IMAGES; AUSTIN CITY LIMITS FESTIVAL BY STEVEN C. and movie industries. Whole Foods is also based here, with an ever- sales for us,” she continues, noting growing beauty presence in both its Whole Body annex and spas that Neiman’s well-heeled clients “OUR TEXAS CLIENT that are located in some stores. “Beauty products fared extremely in Texas have helped sales rebound well in the recession,” says Perry Fink, the company’s Whole Body CAN BE ONE OF this year, although “the aspirational coordinator for the Southwest, while admitting to seeing “some trade- client is feeling the pinch longer.” down within brands and a shift to highly effective products that work MANY TYPES, BUT The mass market, too, is robust. within current budgets.” Best-selling lines here include Skin Organics Drug chains CVS and Walgreens SHE FEELS STRONGLY by Ann Webb, Mineral Fusion makeup, Enfusia bath and body proliferate across the state, while products and Kinky Curly hair care. “There’s a dramatic increase in Sephora has 43 stores (many in ABOUT BEING early age awareness of natural products,” says Fink, “with teenagers J.C. Penney) and Ulta, 46. CVS being educated about ingredients and how they may effect their and Walgreens went head-to-head PULLED TOGETHER.” health and the environment. They’re trending towards natural makeup in a building frenzy over the last that allows the skin to breathe.” Of the look in Austin, he says: “Less fi ve years, with stores seeming is more. They want their natural beauty to shine.” However, notes his to every taste, age and demographic. The Neiman to sprout on every commercial colleague, Traci Reazer: “We sell a lot of tattoo balm, too.” —L.R. Marcus beauty counters have beckoned generations of corner in the state. Although 64 young Texas women, following their mothers’ leads, in percent of Walgreens’ business is looking for advice and direction on the very latest looks pharmacy, Texas stores do very well from the knowledgeable staff. on sales of Olay, Neutrogena and “They learn good skin care habits early in Texas,” says Jergens for skin and sun care, according to Walgreens Latinos are now the largest segment of the Maureen Case, group president of the specialty brands spokeswoman Tiffani Washington. minority population in Texas. In San Antonio in group of the Estée Lauder Cos., who oversees Bobbi “Antiaging and sun care are defi nitely factors for the particular, Latinos have a major impact on the Brown, La Mer and Jo Malone. Case notes that the Southern stores,” she says, noting Dallas is one of the culture and style of the city. All retailers and brands upscale La Mer brand has seen double-digit growth in strongest markets in the country in these categories. “The recognize the proximity to Mexico’s border reflected Texas, while Bobbi Brown is also a top seller. “Our Texas Southern woman is looking for foundations no matter her in their San Antonio sales figures. As Case notes: client can be one of many types, but she feels strongly skin tone. She’s trend setting and forward looking.” “It’s a tremendous business. It’s common for shoppers about being pulled together— The seemingly fl awless look of many Texas women from Mexico to pop over for the day or weekend just being herself, but better,” is attributable to their fondness for foundation. Always to shop.” Case says. “She enjoys her the number-one seller in the makeup category, it One of the items in the shopping bag is very likely femininity.” accounts for one-third of all cosmetics sales in Texas, to be fragrance. Indeed, sales of Dolce & Gabbana’s

MITCHELL/EPA/CORBIS; ROUTE 66 BY PHILIPPE RENAULT/HEMIS/CORBIS; COWBOY BY CINEMAPHOTO/CORBIS; CHEVY BY RICHARD HAMILTON SMITH/C Combined, according to Karen Grant, vice president and global Light Blue “are significantly higher in San Antonio”

BOOTS & SADDLERY SIGN PHOTO BY BO ZAUNDERS/CORBIS; DALLAS HOUSE BY CBS PHOTO ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; CHEERLEADER BY BRIAN BAHR/GE Nordstrom, with 13 industry analyst of The NPD Group. than anywhere else in Texas, stores in Texas, and The first Texas woman to bring this look within according to Grant. Chanel’s Coco Neiman Marcus the reach of every woman was Ash, an Mademoiselle and Estée Lauder’s account for 70 percent icon of direct selling. Her Dallas-based company has Beautiful were numbers one and continued to prosper since her death in 2001, under two in Houston, positions that her son and longtime collaborator, Richard Rogers. are reversed in Dallas. Sales As with other direct-sales companies, the recession of prestige fragrances in Texas resulted in an uptick of recruitment, with Mary reached an estimated $210 Kay’s sales force increasing 13 percent last year. million last year, according to Although at one time, the successful Mary Kay NPD, which is “higher than the lady may have been mistaken for a character in Dallas, national average,” says Grant, the company has worked hard to keep pace with the adding: “Overall, Texans changing face of Texas. “Texan women are opting for see fragrance as a part more subtle and sophisticated looks, with eye colors in of grooming and are shades of brown and not apologetic for replacing bright colors,” says their spending.” DeeAnn Denton, marketing manager of Mary Kay. “The popularity of foundation indicates a concern with achieving fl awless, even-looking skin.”

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MARIONNAUD BI SHANGHAI PHOTOS BY SHARRON LOVELL BY SHANGHAI PHOTOS SPRING GROUP WATSON A.S. OF COURTESY PHOTO SCENTS The fragrance bar has long been decried for the confusion caused by too many competing offers. BUT RETAILERS AND BRANDS ALIKE HAVE REVAMPED. Here, our intrepid beauty reporters go undercover to report back on whether the scent shopping experience (be it for oneself or a gift), HAS BLOOMED INTO A PLEASURABLE EXPERIENCE.

French launch was a few weeks prior to America’s. On aforementioned Narciso Rodriguez For Her and Acqua di PARIS, the sample strip it had potential, so I asked her to spritz Parma’s Iris Nobile. Had someone switched out a tester FRANCE me. Usually I test on my solar plexus, the warmest part of fi lled with makeup remover? The salesgirl couldn’t be my body, and so the best place to get the fastest sniff of sure, so we called over a manager. No, this was the scent BY ALEXANDRA MARSHALL a scent’s full dimension. But that’s a bit uncool in a shop. itself, a “subtle, sensuous” musk fragrance (really?) that She asked me which hand I write with and suggested that one could also mix with other scents. Easy enough when For as long as I can remember, if it wasn’t wrist instead, as it would move around more quickly and you’re basically undetectable. fl owers, it was perfume I gave on Mother’s let the scent fully develop that way. Excellent idea, but it Of course I will come back to Colette. I love Colette. Just Day. But as the years have worn on, my mother fast revealed Fleur de Bois to be a little too sweet for Mom. not for my mom. Or for C 16. has become an even more discriminating Another attempt was made with YSL’s Parisienne (too young) before we called it a day. I headed elsewhere. customer, not to mention a better-stocked one. FRANCK ET FILS And so my mission has become ever more 80 RUE DE PASSY challenging. The question remained whether COLETTE 213 RUE SAINT-HONORÉ Refocused on the person I was actually shopping for, Paris boutiques would be up to the task. I headed to Franck et Fils in the haut bourgeois 16th As it was novelty I was seeking, Colette was the next arrondissement. A small-scale department store, its logical stop. Detractors accuse the chic multibrand fragrance offering is broader than Colette’s, but still MARIONNAUD boutique in the center of town of being snooty. I disagree heavily weighted toward small companies like Stéphanie 9 RUE DES MARTYRS entirely. The staff may be across-the-board hot, but the de Saint-Aignan, Diptyque and L’Artisan Parfumeur. Mom cuteness does not usually come coupled with attitude. The might have been able to fi nd some of these back home, The Sephora-before-there-was-Sephora perfume chain only complaint I have ever had is that, depending on whom but she’d have to search. may not be as vast as its better-known cousin, but you get, the help can be a little unserious. Unfortunately, A saleswoman for the latter brand was the only the sales force at my local outpost has always been a my trip to the new, second-fl oor fragrance counter didn’t do one visible. Fate, it turned out, dealt me a good blow. pleasure to shop from. (The last time I was looking for much to change that impression. She knew the lingo, was solicitous but not syrupy and a pink lipstick, one stalwart assistant literally tested, on The gamine young gal who worked there was friendly continued to ask me questions about my mother as we her own hand, every single peony-ish shade in the store, as can be, but she was a little out of her league. Her fi rst went along. Offering to label each paper strip, she ended ending up like a pop-toned mosaic. And still she smiled move was right on: (Untitled) by Martin Margiela, who can up sampling a total of eight scents out of countless more. and waved when I walked out without buying.) The only do almost no wrong in my eyes. But it was a little grassy Her fi rst suggestion, Thé Pour un Eté, was almost problem: The scents on offer are almost all from big and masculine for my mother, who is less avant-garde right, if just a teeny bit close to another Mom favorite I houses, and available in the U.S., so the novelty factor in her leanings. Not thinking to label paper strips as we hadn’t even mentioned to her, Bulgari’s Eau Thé Vert for Mom suffers. But you never know. went, neither did she know much about the notes in any by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. Next, she walked me Upon entering, a chipper fortysomething lady asked me of the scents she showed me. Luckily, there was printed through (and could blind identify) two different versions of promptly if I needed help—a rarity in Paris. I explained that material on hand she could consult, and she was happy Premier Figuier, both close but still not it, and then, like a my mother prefers green scents (Chanel No. 19 and Issey to do so. palate cleanse, “just to amuse you,” she waved another Miyake L’Eau d’Issey are her two big favorites), but that it Next up were two eaux de toilette from Byredo, a Ellena creation, the feather-light fl oral Bois Farine by would be great to get something new and different. She Stockholm-based indie helmed by an American ex- L’Artisan Parfumeur, under my nose. When she sampled sent me immediately to the “Spanish designer” Narciso basketball player with a terrifi c knack for unusual, but still another Ellena juice, L’Artisan’s L’Haie Fleurie, a rich, Rodriguez’s For Her (and actually held fi rm when I told her approachable, scents. Gypsy Water, with breezy-smelling joyful jasmine, we knew we had a winner. he was Cuban-American. Ah, Parisians). Based on its trio iris and black pepper to freshen up the vanilla, was closer Now, the practical considerations: Could Mom of musks, it was not an obvious choice on paper, but it than musky Baudelaire. But both were a little short lasting exchange it back home if she needed to? The was fresh and fl oral, and could have worked. for a woman who likes a lot of bang for her spritz. Our saleswoman proceeded to tick off every U.S. boutique Still, it has very strong distribution in the U.S., so I didn’t last attempt was our most absurd: Francis Kurkdjian’s C where the brand could be found, and said it should be want to risk buying her something she might have already 16, which, when sprayed on my wrist, smelled of rubbing no problem. Sadly, we’re going to have to keep those tried and passed on. Picking up on the Issey Miyake tip, alcohol, and then, moments later, of nothing at all. Was boutique names on hand because when my helper and keeping in mind the exotic factor, my sales help next this a mistake? Kurkdjian may be an avant-gardist, went to check for a bottle, the store was out of stock. led me to the new L’Eau d’Issey Fleur de Bois, whose but he’s also the man behind Gaultier’s Le Male, the To be continued.

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BB1005.030-33.BI.Fragrance.a;18.indd 30 4/27/10 4:26:10 PM ISETAN younger woman apologized, and said that she hadn’t finished her training yet, while her older counterpart just snubbed us. My friend told her off for being rude and away we went. We passed an Estée Lauder display, where Pure White Linen Light Breeze and Pleasures Intense were very attractively displayed, but the sales SHANGHAI PHOTOS BY SHARRON LOVELL BY SHANGHAI PHOTOS PHOTO COURTESY OF A.S. WATSON GROUP WATSON A.S. OF COURTESY PHOTO clerk couldn’t be bothered to take her time with us. We then paused at the dramatic Giorgio counter staffed by two men in suits who were promoting Armani Code. We were put off by the male salesclerks, however, and headed out. WATSONS Just as we were leaving, a very cheerful stand of Fruits & Passion attracted our attention. The sales associates explained it’s Canadian and showed us SHANGHAI, a special box on offer for the week that included a shower gel and a . The set was very fetching, CHINA and the sales staff was extremely effusive—even offering to throw in a mango scent for free—but we BY MINA CHOI decided to head elsewhere. A little fragrance shopping session for upcoming Mother’s Day sounded easy SEPHORA because, in truth, every day is a Mother’s Day HUAI HAI ROAD in Shanghai, a city ruled by perfectly dressed After interfacing with too many sales people at ladies with serious spending power. I coaxed Isetan, we were happy to hit the nonpressure, funky my local girlfriend to come along for the ambience of Sephora. A saleswoman came over right expedition because she speaks Shanghainese away offering to help. When told of our Mother’s Day mission, she led us directly to the boxed value sets and knows all the top shopping locations on offer. Unfortunately, everything seemed geared like the back of her hand. We drove up in her more toward a young consumer, like the boxed set SUV and glided into Shanghai’s top luxury of Harajuku Lovers, over which a 20-year-old female destination—the Meilongzhen Isetan on customer next to us was agog. All of the classic scents for older ladies were on Nanjing East Road—for a little look-see. the upper shelf and languishing away. A cheerful male salesclerk in his 20s greeted us in English and politely showed us his favorites, including Tous and WATSONS ISETAN DEPARTMENT STORE Lola Marc Jacobs, noting his favorite choice for HUAI HAI ROAD NANJING EAST ROAD mothers is ’s Aqua Allegoria. He also told us that if we purchased 1,500 yuan, or about $220 at A few blocks down, we peeked into Watsons, our We stepped outside the elevator entrance into Isetan, current exchange, worth of products, we would get favorite drug store, to ask about fragrances, but where a small fragrance counter in the entryway a VIP card that offered a 10 percent discount during learned that they don’t sell any. The only scent they sell showed off nearly a hundred different fragrances. the store’s special happy hours. We left feeling well is for men—Adidas. Both my friend and I bought some Kenzo, , Bulgari, Ferragamo, Nina Ricci—you looked after. wet wipes (on sale for two for one) and called it a day. name it, they were there, neatly spaced out one by one in a three-tiered display. The very well-groomed girl behind the counter wore a nicely knotted silk scarf around her neck and politely sprayed little paper strips with scents as we pointed to the ones we liked the look of. When we asked her to suggest a few that my mother might like, she immediately mentioned Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps and noted, “It’s a classic.” My friend pointed to Guerlain’s pretty crystal bottle containing Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic, and she told us that it’s a fresh, clean scent. We were dazzled by the array and didn’t know which to choose. The young woman said her own favorite was a men’s cologne, Bulgari Pour Homme Soir. We then noticed a sleek purple vinyl bag on display, which was a gift-with-purchase from Kenzo, and were seriously tempted—however, Isetan has many more counters inside, so we bid the delightful girl adieu and told her we’d come back. Inside, we passed by Kiehl’s, which only has one fragrance, but we did sign up for the member card so that we might get an announcement for members- only special offers. My friend noticed that the brand’s prices here were not much higher than the prices at the Hong Kong duty free and immediately bought an acne cream for her son. We moved on to a dashing display of Guerlain, which was heavily promoting the youthful Idylle. We got confused by all the prices, however, because the store’s staff hadn’t put the correct bottles on display. When we asked about the difference between perfume, eau de toilette and eau de perfume, the sales associates couldn’t tell us that, either. The SEPHORA

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METROPOLITAIN COSMETICS the aisles. Every conceivable mainstream brand was HYDE PARK SHOPPING CENTRE represented, from Bulgari and Dior to and Aramis—even Britney Spears, Jennifer Lopez and Paris Stepping into Metropolitain is like entering a private club Hilton. There were gift sets on display, as well. open only to those in the know. The brands available People were milling about, checking out everything are not your everyday department store names—they from cosmetics to prescription drugs. The staff conjure exotic locales, velvet-drenched boudoirs and members were generally helpful and approachable, amorous adventures. but as they were not always dressed in uniforms, Inside, the store is a cross between Space NK and a they were difficult to identify. I was ignored for a good 10 minutes, left to stare at the shelves. Finally, I DIS-CHEM chic Parisian pharmacy—clean and well ordered, with the products displayed with sophisticated symmetry. On the approached a sales assistant who had been hunched day I visited, the sales staff was poised and immaculately over the counter doing paperwork the whole time groomed, and incredibly knowledgeable about the I was there. She was pleasant, but immediately JOHANNESBURG, products. They greeted me with warm smiles as I entered, and within seconds, one was at my side, smoothly asking EDGARS

SOUTH AFRICA J.C. PENNEY PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; FREDERIC MALLE BY ROBERT MITRA if I was looking for anything in particular. She introduced me to the Serge Lutens brand, BY BAMBINA WISE explaining that Lutens is an acclaimed French perfumer Not too long ago, fragrance shopping in who lives in Morocco and who created the ground- breaking Fémininité du Bois for . She spritzed a Johannesburg meant a limited choice in generic few scents onto paper strips. She didn’t push me to buy department stores and nondescript pharmacies. anything, but clearly delighted in telling me the stories Today, with malls and shopping centers dotting behind each, such as Eau Suave from Parfum d’Empire, every neighborhood, the array of choices is which, she said, was inspired by the Empress Josephine, Napoleon Bonaparte’s “one true love.” She pointed out impressive. Finding a fragrance—from the the rose notes (“the Empress’ favorite”), as well as the latest Chanel sensation to that elusive limited hints of spice. edition blink-and-it’s-gone cult Robert Piguet I loved that she didn’t focus on the newest or most scent—is no longer such an impossible feat. hyped fragrance. Rather, she emphasized the emotional and sensory connection of each. Her manner was What I was hoping to discover on this shopping enthusiastic yet subtle. Without any attempt at a hard sell, mission was a fragrance that was fresh and she managed to give a sense of ceremony and meaning to feminine, perhaps with a hint of green or citrus what has become in other stores a pedestrian experience. notes. But I didn’t want to smell like everyone And she seemed to read me right—the very fi rst scent she suggested, Fleurs d’Oranger by Lutens, embodied the else in Johannesburg—here, they are obsessed balance of femininity and freshness I was looking for. I felt with having the latest from the best-known I could spend hours here without feeling pressured to buy brands. I wanted something not so easily anything until I was absolutely sure it was “me.” identifi able but defi nitely memorable. talked price when I asked to see The One by Dolce & DIS-CHEM PHARMACY Gabbana. She told me it’s at least 20 percent cheaper BLUBIRD SHOPPING CENTRE than elsewhere (which is true) and explained that Dis- EDGARS DEPARTMENT STORE Chem doesn’t get its fragrances straight from official 34 HIGH STREET, MELROSE ARCH Dis-Chem claims to offer the best prices for branded channels, but from other distributors, which allows and store-branded items, and makes no pretensions it to offer better prices. Some scents are even sold If it’s mainstream prestige fragrances from the likes about offering atmosphere or service above and cheaper “without the box.” of Dior, Chanel, Lancôme, Guerlain, , , beyond the mundane, even if the particular Dis-Chem To be honest, I didn’t expect much at Dis-Chem. But Dolce & Gabbana and Estée Lauder one is after, Edgars I visited was marketed as “upmarket,” located a mere I still found the lack of fi nesse off-putting. Dis-Chem is the place. I headed to the fl agship, where the new fi ve minutes from an affl uent suburb. is the place to go to if you know exactly what you’re beauty hall is the star attraction. With its spacious The fragrance section was at the entrance of the looking for and aren’t willing to pay department store counters, white marble fl oors and black-suited staff, it store, with brand-name prestige and masstige scents prices. But if it’s a whiff of romance or seduction you’re almost feels like being in an American department store. housed in glass shelves behind the counter and along after, you’re better off at Edgars or Metropolitain. Walking through the beauty hall, however, I was largely ignored at the near-empty store until I stopped at the Chanel counter. There, the sales assistant was brisk and friendly, expertly explaining the newest offerings from the celebrated French house. She skimmed through the history of Chanel, invited me to try the latest version of No.5, Eau Premiere, which she said, is lighter, fresher and younger. She urged me to sample Chance Eau Fraîche and Eau Tendre, both of which she described as fresh, and eschewed the paper strips for a spritz on my skin. She advised me to “let them sit for a few hours to let the scent develop,” so off I went. In the main perfume hall, where the fragrances were displayed in rows against the wall or on shelves, the sales staff was huddled together, busy chatting while I sniffed around. I was attended to only after a manager noticed me. She was pleasant and polite, automatically pointing out the latest offerings from Dolce & Gabbana, Viktor & Rolf and Hermès, and asking what I was looking for, dividing scents into two categories: strong or light, fresh or floral. But none of the sales staff could tell me what made a particular scent stand out apart from its newness and its popularity. In the end, although the setup of the store did make me want to linger and experiment, I ended up not buying anything from lack of guidance from the staff. METROPOLITAIN COSMETICS

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BY LORNA KOSKI A kiss on the hand may be quite continental… but sometimes it can go too far. The mission that I chose to accept this month was to search for a new perfume. Fragrances, of course, go back to antiquity, and were widely used in ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt. Shakespeare depicts Cleopatra’s barge as trailing scented panels of fabric, while essential oils were J.C. PENNEY PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; FREDERIC MALLE BY ROBERT MITRA among the commodities that made the Silk Road what it was. And who can forget the Bard’s Lady Macbeth wailing, “All the perfumes of Arabia cannot wash this blood from my hand”? My own biases are much in favor of scent made from natural essences, as well as those of the heritage variety, all of which are often labeled with the unfl attering term of “old lady.” While I am certainly getting up there agewise (I’m a Baby Boomer), it should be said that I preferred “old-lady” scents even when I was in my 20s. As a young woman, after a brief fl irtation with Oh! De London, I began to wear Casaque, much self-service, which I prefer. Signs said, “Start and Jicky, while the other side of the counter offered Spritzing,” so I did. variations on Fracas by Robert Piguet. supposedly the perfume of George Sand. Today, I tested Marc Jacobs Daisy, Flora by and I particularly like the work of Serge Lutens, Miss Dior Cherie, along with Kat Von D’s Saint and Sinner fragrances, ranged beneath a cardboard figure FREDERIC MALLE L’Artisan Parfumeur and Histoires de Parfums 898 MADISON AVENUE (in fact, I wear its George Sand 1804 scent of the tattoo artist (uncomfortably reminiscent of Michelle “Bombshell” McGee). The tag line for the last Entering the tiny, jewel box Frederic Malle store almost every day). two scents was the ungrammatical “There are two was like walking back in time—just as its designer, sides in all of us.” Although none of the fragrances architect Patrick Naggar, intended. I was almost were to my personal liking, no one approached me immediately intercepted by a tall, slim, beautifully and I couldn’t have been happier when I left. J.C. PENNEY dressed young man with a shock of hair and MALL, 100 WEST 33RD STREET demeanor that suggested those of the young male SAKS FIFTH AVENUE lead in a Twenties musical comedy. Keeping up My initial destination for this story, however, was a 611 FIFTH AVENUE a nonstop patter about the notes and perfumers little off the beaten track for me. At J.C. Penney, in the involved in fabricating the new set of Malle master Manhattan Mall, the Sephora store was immaculate, Saks Fifth Avenue’s newly revamped fragrance scents, he put three fragrances, Iris Poudre, Dans with plenty of blotter-paper strips. It was also very floor was beautiful. It was easy to navigate, and tes Bras and Une Fleur de Cassie, on scent strips. I all of the members of the counter staffs were told him that I preferred Dans and Une Fleur, and he FREDERIC MALLE both highly professional and welcoming. To a then sprayed one on each wrist. I sat down in one of woman—and man—they were immaculately turned the two deep, worn leather chairs for a moment…and out, very knowledgeable about their respective he flattened his entire, flowerlike face on each of my fragrance lines and helpful without offering even wrists in turn, breathing deeply and saying something a soupçon of high-pressure salesmanship. The about how good one of the scents was on me. service was nothing short of spectacular. In fact, Utterly astonished by this turn of events, I jumped they all appeared to be taking part in a carefully up to leave, whereupon he ran into the back to get choreographed service ballet, so intricately thought samples of the two fragrances. As for his unique out that it could have been transferred sans method of taking in the way the fragrances smelled alteration to the Lincoln Center stage. on me—it may work beautifully with the Ladies Who I visited the store on two separate occasions. One Lunch, but it scared the living daylights out of me. day, the fl oor was surmounted by a giant photograph of Scarlett Johansson channeling Marilyn Monroe for Dolce & Gabbana. I headed to the Cartier counter, J.C. PENNEY where a handsome, dark-haired man tried to sell me a gift set of the luxe jeweler’s latest, Délices de Cartier. I told him that it was too fruity for me, adding that I prefer fl orals. After a pause, he sprayed me with a more fl oral Cartier fragrance—So Pretty—which I found charming. I picked up a bottle of Le Baiser du Dragon and asked him whether it was an oriental. It was. He sprayed it on me and suggested that I walk around and see how I liked the fragrances after a while, so off I went. On another day at Saks, I visited the counter, where, at my request, the sales assistant found me the most powdery of the Armani fragrances, which was Armani Mania and gave me a sample of another Armani fragrance, Onde Extase. Elsewhere, the Guerlain counter, to my delight, had an ample selection of such heritage house fragrances as Shalimar, Mitsouko

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THE PALAZZO RE ENZO

EMILY DOUGHERTY AND LAUREN GLASSBERG DEBRA LEIPMAN- YALE, ART SPIRO JILL HILL JERRY VITTORIA AND DIANE CRECCA. PIERRE SALOMON SIDDHARTHA SHAH AND KATE GREENE GROUP FERRAGAMO PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI; CEW BY STEVE EICHNER; FIFI BY KYLE ERICKSEN DYNAMICS Beauty industry execs combined work and play during an action-packed April. The double-faced cashmere was NICHOLAS MUNAFO AND ANTONELLA MANDELLI out in force in Bologna, Italy, as a bevy of executives DON LOFTUS JESSICA BARLOW FABIO FRANCHINA AND AUGUSTO MAZZOLARI braved April showers to celebrate the launch of Ferragamo’s new women’s scent, Attimo. Three hundred guests including Ferruccio Ferragamo, chairman of Salvatore Ferragamo; Michele Norsa, chief executive offi cer of Salvatore Ferragamo, and Luciano Bertinelli, ceo of Ferragamo Parfums, traded industry gossip over glasses of prosecco amidst the spectacular vista of Palazzo Re Enzo, one of the city’s oldest buildings. This being Italy, the party wasn’t complete without a sumptuous three-course dinner, followed by cabaret and dancing, making for a bleary-eyed start to Cosmoprof— the beauty industry trade fair—which opened its doors the following day. Back in New York, Walgreens’ Shannon Petree and Olay’s Remi Kent shared insights MICHELE NORSA, FERRUCCIO FERRAGAMO AND LUCIANO BERTINELLI. about the mass market skin care business during Cosmetic Executive Women’s April Women in ANN GOTTLIEB, ROCHELLE BLOOM AND THIA BREEN. Beauty panel. Both agreed that results are the name REMI KENT of the game, and believe that wellness, naturals and the men’s market present the most exciting opportunities in the sector. Wrapping up the month, the Fragrance Foundation’s FiFi Finalists Breakfast was held on April 23 at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Emceed by WABC’s Lauren Glassberg and overseen by Rochelle Bloom, president of the Fragrance Foundation, the event revealed the top fi ve nominees in each fragrance category PAOLO VALERIO AND YVAN BAGNIS AND JEAN- and presented technological awards to DANIELA MANZONI PIERRE BETHOUART Givaudan and Victorinox Swiss Army. GISELA BALLARD AND Additional winners will be announced TOMOKO YAMAGISHI on June 10 at the FiFi Awards. SHANNON PETREE

JENMON YUEN-JENKINS

FRANCINE GINGRAS AND ANN LUNDBERG AND KIM BENNETT CARLOTTA JACOBSON DIANE NEWMAN

34 WWD BEAUTY BIZ SAMANTHA SCHROEDER

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PATH FINDER ACCESSIBILITY IS TRUMPING TRADITIONAL RETAIL BOUNDARIES, AS CONSUMERS SHOW THEMSELVES EAGER TO SHOP IN AN ARRAY OF ENVIRONMENTS—AND SAVVY BEAUTY BRANDS FOLLOW THEM. BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPHED BY JAMES WOJCIK

hen Steve Stoute was mapping out the Lagerfeld and at H&M to Stella launch strategy for Mary J. Blige’s upcoming McCartney at Gap. Then there’s Wolfgang Puck, whose W scent, he decided almost immediately against culinary company started with Spago restaurant in tony department stores—the traditional go-to option for such Beverly Hills, and has since expanded into an empire a project. Instead, the scent will launch in late July on the consisting of upscale restaurants in California, Las Vegas home-shopping TV channel HSN, bypassing brick-and- and Minneapolis; casual franchised eateries in airports mortar retailers all together—for the time being at least. across the country, and a line of food, books, tools and Separately, though not unrelated, luxury hair care appliances that are sold on HSN, among others. guru Frédéric Fekkai recently announced his brand’s So, while many in the beauty industry may still defi ne expansion into select mass market stores, unveiling a brands solely by where they are sold (Sephora, for one, strategy that he and parent company Procter & Gamble dropped Fekkai from its assortment shortly after the hope will allow the brand to comfortably straddle mass announcement), the consumer clearly doesn’t. and prestige distribution. “You can no longer let the box defi ne the brand,” Explaining his decision to explore cross-channel says Stoute, lead investor and chairman of Carol’s opportunities, the always well-turned-out Fekkai said at Daughter, referring to big-box retailers, whether mass or the time of the announcement: “I love to go to Target and prestige. “The brand has to defi ne the box. Because of Whole Foods—as well as Hermès.” the Internet, no one buys channel anymore. They can go He’s not alone. Consumers today have made their on Bluefl y.com and buy Gucci—they don’t have to buy willingness to shop across multiple channels very clear. it at Neiman Marcus or Saks,” he continues. “Channel In fashion, for example, Isaac Mizrahi decamped from distribution is breaking down. The lines are blurring.” the catwalks of to Target and back again, Lyn Kirby, chief executive offi cer of Ulta, agrees. racking up more than $100 million in sales at the mass “Increasingly, brands are coming to grips with the giant and sparking a legion of imitators, from Karl reality that this distinction between mass and prestige

HOW IS THE TERRY J. LUNDGREN, chairman, NORMA KAMALI: Beauty is inside president and ceo, Macy’s Inc.: out. Beauty is health and BEAUTY GAME We’re taking a much more fi tness. Beauty is a lifestyle CHANGING? customer-centric and person- choice and the industry alized approached to consum- needs to provide solutions. THE INDUSTRY’S ers. Through My Macy’s and our The documentary Food Inc. is MOST INFLUENTIAL work with Dunnhumby USA, we’re changing how we look at the food THINKERS REVEAL learning more about each of our industry. Soon enough, someone color and treatment customers. will do a documentary on the THEIR THOUGHTS FOR By understanding details about beauty industry and that will THE FUTURE. what each customer prefers and force the change. But why not might buy next, we can drive create a beauty industry that sales growth. Newness is criti- looks at inside outside, from cal, and we are committed to what we eat to what we put on partnering with our vendors on our bodies? The question is, can ideas to engage the customer. the beauty game make the change?

BB1005.036-041.GameChangers.b;14.indd 36 4/28/10 4:37:18 PM BB1005.036-041.GameChangers.b;14.indd 37 4/28/10 4:38:02 PM say customers would buy MAC out of the trunk of a car, POP CULTURE MARKET MOVERS they liked the brand so much.” Where these fi ve people go, the rest of us follow. Feeney is joking, of course, but her point that BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM SAMUELS consumers craved the brand more than the retail ambience in which it was sold is an insight that helped inform her distribution strategy for St. Tropez, the London-based self-tanning brand she took over in 2007. In the U.K., the brand is sold in the grocery chain Sainsbury’s; in the drug MICHAEL POLLAN chains Boots and Superdrug; in the department stores Before organic face creams and all-natural nail polish, there was Michael Pollan and his Selfridges, Harrods, House of Fraser, John Lewis and seven simple words: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” It was a mantra that pre- Debenhams, and in salons and spas across the country. cipitated a domino effect. “Pollan took a daunting, complex subject—the food industry— Rather than cannibalize each other, Feeney says sales are up double digits across the board. and distilled it in a way that gave people a handle on it,” says Adam Rapoport, senior style editor at GQ. “What was murky became transparent, and suddenly, you were an idiot if you didn’t follow his advice. It went from being smart to being cool, and once LADY GAGA the cool people are doing it, it becomes part of the public consciousness.” Soon There may be no one who has made status quo enough, the author of In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto and The Omnivore’s celebrity feel as stuffy, staid and flatlined as Lady Dilemma: The Secrets Behind What You Eat was having an impact on beauty, too. Gaga. She swooped into a world where the red “Pollan has been hugely influential in making people rethink where their products are carpet was replete with gently tousled hair, neutral coming from,” says Melissa Lavigne, managing director of the Intelligence Group. “Not lipstick and impossibly safe eye shadow—and turned just what they put in their mouths, but what they put on their bodies. He has made it all on its delicately adorned ear. “She treats style us question: What is this doing to the world? Food used to be a dead subject from a as performance art,” says Lavigne. “We’ve seen it marketing standpoint, but now it’s setting the standard for the beauty industry.” before—with Cyndi Lauper, Boy George, Madonna— Indeed, natural ingredients, organic products and well-being have become but never this successfully and never to this ex- priorities for the consumer. “Pollan is a brave man,” says Robin Coe-Hutshing, treme.” Crystals, lace, pearls: To the rest of the world, creative director of Studio BeautyMix. “He’s a hero for pointing out they may seem like accessories, but in Gaga’s reality, difficult realities and finding solutions that we can actually live with.” these are adornments for your face like blush or eye shadow. “The results are graphic, powerful, awe in- spiring,” says Coe-Hutshing. “Each of her alter egos consists of such minute attention to stylistic detail is a distribution-centric paradigm,” she says. “It is not spend, they don’t want to—particularly in an upscale an experience-centric paradigm. Customers don’t know environment where temptation lurks around every corner. that it commands our attention—and creates legions the difference between distribution channels. They’re “Women don’t want to be tempted to overspend,” says of clones.” Gaga keeps people guessing, keeps not marketing strategists. They are focused on what Liebmann, “so they stay out of stores where that might makeup inspired, keeps it all fun—and is an art- experience they’re getting in the store.” happen. There is an avoidance thing. So with Fekkai, for ist, one who treats makeup as an extension of her Forget trading up. Shoppers are trading up, down, example, [customers] may be staying out of department music. She has worn a dress made of dead Mup- across and every which way. “Today’s consumer is stores because they don’t want to be tempted to go to the looking for great specialization and not shopping at one shoe department. But if they see the brand in a more mass pets in defiance of fur. She has worn a mask retail outlet for all of her beauty needs,” says Bob Seidl, environment, even though it’s not a better deal in terms of of red lace to symbolize her own “martyr- president and ceo of H2O Plus, which is sold in its own price, they’ll still purchase it because they’re not tempted dom.” But her outrageousness belies stores, in department stores and in more than 1,000 chain to overspend on other stuff.” a thoughtfulness underneath. and specialty stores including Ulta and Beauty 360. “We The new cross-channel strategy encompasses more “She has given permission are in the prestige arena, but that arena is being redefi ned than brands widening distribution from prestige to and is broader and appeals to a changed consumer.” mass—it’s about broadening the availability for all to a whole generation of While the recession is a large reason why the brands that resonate with consumers. “The next wave kids to be an outsider,” consumer is different, the recovery isn’t expected to is integrating some of the interesting brands that are says Lavigne. “For signifi cantly alter her new behavior patterns. The Dow sold only online or via electronic retailing into vertical so long, transforma- may have hit 11,000 in April, causing jubilation in distribution,” says Melisse Shaban, ceo of Chrysallis. “We tion has been about Washington and Wall Street, but Main Street’s mentality are talking $100 million businesses for some of those is far from celebratory. “Eighty-nine percent of women brands,” she continues. “How do you create an incentive looking better, being are saying the recession isn’t over, even when economists for them to want to go bricks and mortar?” thinner. Lady Gaga are saying it’s over,” says Wendy Liebmann, founder The result is a democratization of distribution, a has taught us that and ceo of WSL Strategic Retail, citing statistics from world in which consumers no longer attach any special transformation can her fi rm’s recent “How America Shops” survey. “When signifi cance to where they’re buying something. “The just be about you look at affl uents, $150,000 plus, 58 percent say the customer is willing to buy today in a much more recession will last one to two more years, and 29 percent democratic way,” says Michelle Feeney, ceo of St. Tropez, transformation.” say three to fi ve more years.” who was formerly vice president of international global Moreover, though the affl uents can well afford to communications at MAC Cosmetics. “I always used to

CONT. HOW IS THE BEAUTY GAME CHANGING? JO HORGAN, founder and managing IDO LEFFLER, co-founder, JEAN-PAUL AGON, ceo, L’Oréal: JACQUES LEVY, ceo, Sephora P director, Mecca Cosmetica: Yes to Carrots: The past 24 We are entering a new age of Worldwide: The change is vis- g There is an increased focus on months have seen the consumer cosmetics with products based ible in the client’s vision of J international distribution, as become increasingly value on new fi elds in science such as selective distribution. She has G brands look to build an early aware, effi cacy diligent, stem cells, genomics and modern a strong desire for innovation b presence in emerging markets socially vocal and constantly biology. Driven by innovation and for unfamiliar cosmetics b and build a stable revenue connected. To survive and and understanding of consumers’ territories. It’s been benefi - a stream in established markets. lead, we have to go back to diverse beauty needs and cial to the selective channel c Consumers are being heard loud the fi rst and most signifi cant desires, L’Oréal has emerged that, confronted by new play- r and clear through blogs, rating marketing mantra: “The strongly from the recession ers, it is renewing itself. The p and reviews, etc., all of which customer knows best.” And if and is armed to reach out to shopping experience must be a e is good news for emerging we forget, she will surely new and growing markets where moment of pleasure with a fl uid m brands with strong products but tell all of her Facebook we are focused on gaining one traffi c fl ow and an offbeat, per- e limited marketing funds. friends about it! billion new consumers. sonalized and instructive tone. b

BB1005.036-041.GameChangers.b;14.indd 38 4/28/10 4:38:31 PM MARC JACOBS consumer will vote with her feet. Three different circles— brand, you have to fi nd other ways to get business, the consumer, the vendor and the retail environment—are without irritating your core retailers,” says Liebmann, who Where Marc Jacobs goes, the cool kids follow. It was key to whether this trend continues.” believes the department store model will have to evolve true of his bags. It was true of his accessories. It Maintaining brand equity is key. Product prices, for into a multitiered retailer encompassing the Internet was even true of his geography. “When every major one, are inviolable. “The price point is key to being in and off-price outlets to address new consumer shopping brand was opening on Madison Avenue, Marc Jacobs different channels,” says Feeney. “If you’re discounted in patterns, as well as the encroachment of mass retailers one, the whole thing comes tumbling down.” into the prestige world with new formats such as CVS’ moved downtown to Bleecker Street and sparked a The entire brand must be represented, too. Beauty 360 and Duane Reade’s Look Boutique. whole new neighborhood,” says Rapoport. “He is a Consumers today are savvy enough to recognize which Shaban agrees. “It’s about changing the experience,” genius brander. He made owning Marc Jacobs cool. products are sourced directly by a retailer and which are she says. “It’s incumbent on the brand and the retailer to He did that by going downtown, by putting on sub- obtained by secondary means, like diversion. “You have come up with new merchandising experiences to allow for versive fashion shows, by selling $25 rain boots.” to deliver the brand in its entirety,” says Liebmann. “The the experience in their stores to be unique and different. consumer has to be able to get what she wants when she The reality is that we have to learn how to do things And most recently, by reshaping how we think of fra- wants and not feel like she’s being shortchanged because better. There is a lot of low-hanging fruit.” grance. “For so many companies, it’s about pushing she’s changed stores.” Shaban cites Impulse Beauty, Macy’s new open- the bottle, launching the next scent,” says Lavigne. Then there’s the communication piece of the puzzle. sell format that the retailer is testing in about 10 to 15 “It’s made the public numb.” But something about Packaging, imagery and in-store merchandising all have West Coast doors, as just such an example. Brands— Marc Jacobs scents suggests he’s actually trying to be fi nely honed. Just because distribution of a brand has including Smashbox Cosmetics, , Dior, become more democratic doesn’t mean that its messaging H2O Plus and Philosophy—are merchandised on black to do something new each time—the bold bottles, can follow suit. In fact, quite the opposite. “We upgraded gondolas with white letters. Though Macy’s declined to the strong, signature notes. These are the spirited, our imagery with a campaign that is very premium,” says comment, 40 such installations are expected to open by whimsical creations of someone rethinking scent, Boswell, noting that Nexxus also redesigned its packaging the end of the year. even rethinking fragrance’s place in the market. and shelf talkers to compensate for self-selection rather The verdict is still out, however, as to the idea’s long- “Marc has done masstige in a than having a stylist explain the line. “We simplifi ed the term success. “It still needs a little more time, as far as packaging and made it easier for consumers to navigate I’m concerned, for it to be nurtured,” Smashbox president unique way,” says Lavigne. the brand and product benefi ts,” she says. Budd Taylor told WWD in April. “While H&M, Target and the “The moment confusion reigns, she is out of there,” For its part, Neiman Marcus is testing a discount retail Gap are bringing high- adds Liebmann. “The clarity of the offer becomes very concept, currently branded Last Call but most likely a end designers to the important, not having multiple versions of the brand. It’s name that will be changed in the near future. masses, Marc made a about selling that brand in multiple channels that helps Wherever the venue and whatever its name, one thing me get to my customer, wherever she may be.” is certain: The consumer will continue to drive the new high-end line accessible. All of this presents a treacherous path forward distribution paradigm. “Going forward, consumers and Yet somehow he is still for many beauty brands, particularly those in prestige brands will share the brand,” says Cargo’s Zalzal. “The aspirational. Whatever distribution who are looking to branch out. The wave of consumer will be part of brand development and brand he does, Marc’s ideas retail consolidation in both the prestige and mass markets identity by what they’re posting on fan pages, saying on always hit the pulse.” No means there are fewer players who are bigger and more blogs and more. The balance of power is shifting and powerful than ever before. “If you’re a small or midsize every consumer has a voice now.” pun intended.

LARA STONE We’re a society that likes its muses. And in a time of economic downturn, a curvy, gap-toothed blonde with a captivating face does more than resonate with the general public—she lifts our spirits. “ is one of those “The consumer is looking for variety and models who can look unspeakably glamorous one moment and kind of convenience,” agrees Hana Zalzal, founder and president goofy, like a real person, the next,” says Coe-Hutshing, adding that “her of Cargo, a makeup line sold in CVS’ Beauty 360, Sephora in J.C. Penney, Ulta, Macy’s and QVC. “It’s sexy Bardot gaze and body have made her an icon. ” The blonde not about elite locations. We are all too busy, and we’re bombshell moniker—the one we’re so happy to slap on any fair-haired looking for quality and value.” new model who can fi ll out a bikini—actually applies to Stone. It was that accessibility that Alberto Culver was Whether she’s gazing up at us from a fabricated forest floor or looking to tap into when it converted Nexxus Salon Hair staring us straight in the eye through a fuchsia filter, it’s hard Care from the professional salon channel to the mass market in 2006. “Everyone is trying to crack the code of to look away. “Lara feels like Mad Men come to life—the sexy, making sure the consumer has the experience of getting curvy, bombshell,” says Lavigne, who points out that, in a recent luxury with the convenience of a broader distribution,” market survey, “curvy” was ranked the most aspirational body says Gina Boswell, president of global brands at Alberto type among 18- to 34-year-olds. “She has allowed people to Culver, who notes that the brand was recently awarded see beauty in a very different way. Whether it’s her smile, her four more feet of space in Wal-Mart. “As long as the essence of the brand equity is maintained and nurtured curves, her imperfect walk, Lara has broken the mold.” by both the channel partners and the manufacturers, the

PERICLES STAMATIADES, company innovation and aesthetics MALLY RONCAL, president and CARLOTTA JACOBSON, president, group chairman, Johnson & traditionally associated with creator, Mally Beauty: The Cosmetic Executive Women: The Johnson Beauty Care luxury products. [Research customer is looking for shift in power from company Global Business Unit: The and development] scientists authenticity, honesty and to consumer is driving beauty game is changing are being challenged to trust. It’s about building the decentralization and because of the demands develop fi rst-to-market a passionate community of democratization of beauty. and sophistication of the technologies that exceed committed users, versus This shift has affected three consumer. She insists on consumer expectations. selling a little bit to main areas: Shopping has real results from clinically everyone. Connecting to her no boundaries—it is about proven products that are via television, social media convenience, not experience. effective and offer a and the Internet is the way Distribution no longer defi nes a memorable, delightful to get into her heart, her product’s value or status. Most experience. Mass beauty mind and her life. importantly, consumers, not brands now offer superior companies, own the message.

BB1005.036-041.GameChangers.b;14.indd 39 4/28/10 4:38:52 PM THE TRANSFORMER Bauza declines to comment on sales, but says: “Our WAL-MART’S CARMEN BAUZA IS LEADING THE MASS MARKET real estate is very valuable. [Hard Candy] is paying the rent in the stores that it has.” Her stamp is visible on all GIANT INTO A BRAVE NEW WORLD OF BEAUTY RETAILING. aspects of the brand. For instance, during a brainstorming BY MOLLY PRIOR PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL HALSBAND session for the mascara, she blurted out, “ginormous”—a RETOUCHING BY MALCOLM NEO word that she frequently heard Wal-Mart’s chief fi nancial offi cer use—and Ginormous Lash mascara was born. The success of Hard Candy has percolated the interest of n avid Formula One fan, Carmen Bauza is moment” that is all too rare in her day—a moment where prestige beauty companies, says Bauza, and while she won’t changing Wal-Mart’s approach to beauty at she can indulge herself, knowing that she’s getting the divulge if there’s an upscale concept in development, she says: A lightning speed. quality products she wants while saving money so that she “The customer is shopping across all channels. We want to “It’s a team effort and there is one goal and that’s to and her family can live better.” offer her accessibility to all brands, including prestige.” win,” says Bauza, who is Wal-Mart’s vice president and Key to her vision is offering prestige cosmetics brands, That attitude is markedly different from how Wal- divisional merchandise manager of beauty. She is speaking both to satiate her existing customer’s interest in upscale Mart approached beauty in the past. “We gave her not just of her passion for auto racing, but also of what brands and to retain the new shoppers who were drawn so much to select from, but did we really stand for drives her personally and professionally. “That’s how I to the retailer because of the recession. “Customers were something?” Bauza asks. “Now, we have the breadth of work. That’s how I go about every day.” asking, ‘Why are you making me go to another store to buy assortment and the brands she wants, but we’ve made Bauza’s competitive fi re is no mere bluster. Since prestige beauty when I am already shopping in your store?’” more clear statements to customers. Our evolution has joining Wal-Mart three years ago, she is transforming Bauza recalls. An avid shopper with a keen eye, Bauza given us that authority.” its beauty business into a rapidly evolving, tightly edited herself exemplifi es the cross-channel shopper she hopes That’s not to say Bauza has turned her back on the enterprise that prizes established brands and eliminates to attract, as comfortable in Bergdorf Goodman as she is mass market beauty industry—far from it. She just has underperformers. Despite the magnitude of the retailer’s in a big-box retailer, wearing on a recent chilly spring day a new message, key to which has been a rigorous editing beauty business—industry sources estimate Wal-Mart’s a sleek black dress accessorized with round-toe Christian and assessment of each brand’s offering in an effort to U.S. beauty business ranges between $2 billion and Louboutin pumps and an Yves Saint Laurent tote. fully focus on what the customer wants—and axe what she $4 billion in size—Bauza believes that employing the Of course, mass retailers eyeing prestige beauty brands doesn’t. Wal-Mart declines to comment on what percentage same-old strategies to what she sees as a rapidly changing for growth is nothing new—both CVS and Walgreens of the overall assortment has been trimmed, but some Wall category is a road map for disaster. have been vocal and aggressive in their attempts to enter Street analysts estimate it is around 15 percent. “Consumers have given us, as an industry, a second the arena—but Bauza is not one to take a wait-and-see “If they don’t move faster and become more agile, they chance, but they are expecting a lot more,” says Bauza. approach. “I started looking for an opportunity—I look will miss out,” Bauza says of mass beauty brands. “Some “[In the past] we’ve met those expectations. Now we want for them every day,” she says. are getting it, and replacing fi ve [stockkeeping units] with to exceed them,” she continues, referring to Wal-Mart’s After proving unsuccessful at wrangling the prestige two.…We know change is not easy. It was unknown territory 40-year history. “We’ve got to change and we’ve got to brands she wanted, Bauza’s thoughts turned to Hard for some [suppliers]. And some moved faster than others.” change faster. We need to be agile.” Candy, an indie makeup line that in its heyday was Bauza also is on a mission to reengineer the promotional To that end, Bauza is reengineering Wal-Mart’s beauty a darling of high-end beauty boutiques. Wal-Mart levers that mass market suppliers have employed for message. Whereas once the vision would have been value partnered with contract manufacturer and Hard Candy decades. “Buy one, get one free is not a sustainable model. driven, today it is resolutely consumer centric. “I want licensee NuWorld Beauty, and together they re-created We need to change the way we are going about promotions to help every woman celebrate her beauty by making the brand, injecting edginess into Wal-Mart’s beauty and use ones that are engaging, but that don’t give product inspiring beauty brands affordable for everyone,” says department. The 261-item line began hitting Wal-Mart away. That takes her out of the buying cycle,” she says. the retailer, when asked her vision of beauty for Wal- doors last fall, and is now in 3,000 stores. At launch, As an alternative, Bauza says Wal-Mart has been Mart. “Wal-Mart will provide the brands she loves in an sources expected the line to generate as much as $50 testing a fragrance-sampling program, and suppliers say it environment where she can luxuriate in having that “me million in sales the fi rst year. will soon add in-store product demonstrations. Bauza’s changes are happening across Wal-Mart’s more than 4,000 U.S. doors, but the most dramatic expression of her vision is the beauty department inside the retailer’s Project Impact concept, a major overhaul that consists RIHANNA of wider aisles and a clean, upscale look. Currently She has single-handedly mainstreamed punk, she has made fearlessness as sexy as a great implemented in about 600 stores, the spacious area features a display wall for lighted brand imagery and signs pair of legs and, despite the fact that she’s 100 percent Bajan, Rihanna has already become touting new items, sharpened end-of-aisle displays, less a symbol of multiculturalism. And that’s all at the tender age of 22. “This is a woman who has clutter and lower shelves, to about 6 feet, each accentuated never tried to fi t into a traditional role,” says Lavigne. “It’s not just that she has become a poster with light-wood headers and clear plastic category markers. child for different cultures—it’s that she feels very authentic.” As Lavigne points out, this resonates The department—with cosmetics aisles angled toward the entrance—is set on a faux-wood fl oor and heralded by deeply with her generation. “She’s savvy—all kinds of people can identify with her. She’s straddling navigational signs for each beauty category. different worlds and we’re heading towards a time where that will be the norm.” Through both her With the backing of the largest retailer in the world, public and private lives, Rihanna symbolizes a strong, intrepid woman. And somehow, she conveys Bauza’s approach to both merchandising and promotion all her badassness while still being a picture of femininity. “She’s all tough and leather and will have a signifi cant and potentially lasting impact on the mass market beauty business. After all, many beauty brands studs one minute, and the face of Cover Girl the next,” says Dodai Stewart, deputy editor of rely on the retail behemoth for one-third of their sales, Jezebel.com. “She is the embodiment of the tough-feminine look.” and Wal-Mart’s reach is broad—more than 140 million customers stream through its doors each week—and global. “Merchandising is storytelling,” says Bauza, who spent

CONT. HOW IS THE BEAUTY GAME CHANGING?

ED SHIRLEY, vice chair, global JULIAN KYNASTON, founder, GEORGE HAMMER, chairman, Urban LESLEY BLODGETT, ceo, Bare beauty and grooming, Procter Illamasqua: We see the return Retreat: Years ago, at retail, Escentuals: We all thought & Gamble: It’s no longer just of creativity into a sector the beauty industry moved that ideas like applying beauty. It’s female beauty and that had become increasingly from counter service to “open makeup to your own photo on male grooming. The other 50 predictable and sterile. Brands sell.” However, this relies a computer were the wave of percent of the world’s popula- can now emerge “overnight” and heavily on visual communica- the future. I still believe tion is awakening to the ben- no longer need 25 years or $25 tion and merchandising. The though, that while it seems efi ts of advanced skin and hair million to build equity. Beauty future lies in face-to-face, that everything we need to care, among other morning and is fertile territory for emo- unbiased education and real run our lives now sits on our evening rituals. This is a big tional brand building—no longer engagement with customers. lap and weighs 1.5 pounds, it growth opportunity, and an area will promotions be the way to a Identifi able value-for-money is our social responsibility where P&G beauty and grooming consumer’s heart. We should see and a true point of difference to physically and emotionally has taken signifi cant strategic more new entrants and a reener- are essential factors for the touch people through the human steps within the past year. gized “old order” by default. next generation of products. experience.

BB1005.036-041.GameChangers.b;14.indd 40 4/28/10 4:39:10 PM 12 years at Walt Disney Co. and, more recently, three years at Bath & Body Works. “I start by putting together what I envision in the store, and then I put the numbers to it.” She acknowledges that it’s a renegade approach at the effi ciency-driven Wal-Mart, where number-crunching analysis generally comes fi rst. But Bauza is quick to point RETOUCHING BY MALCOLM NEO out that, if the numbers don’t work, she revises her plans. “Numbers speak the truth,” she says, echoing Wal-Mart’s long-standing credo. “It’s a mix of art and science.” Bauza is intensely curious, frequently picking the brains of shoppers and bouncing ideas off store managers. “I like dialogue,” she says. She is also teeming with creativity, say beauty executives. “Carmen is a brand builder who meets with suppliers on a quarterly basis to really understand their businesses,” says Jeff Rogers, president and director of Physicians Formula, a brand included in the Project Impact concept. “She’s very involved. She understands the numbers and categories and she works with each brand to increase its sales.” Revlon president and chief executive offi cer Alan Ennis says of the retailer: “Carmen is making dramatic enhancements to the beauty shopping experience for the Wal-Mart shopper. She has a clear focus on category growth and we look forward to the resulting progress based on the benefi ts of an enhanced environment.” e Bauza has boundless energy. She’s recently made exercising a priority, opting for workouts on the treadmill and elliptical machine as she blasts tunes. “It takes away a lot of the pressure,” says Bauza. She and her husband, Mike, are self-described history buffs who travel the globe. They recently visited Greece and Turkey, y and their passion for Formula One has taken them to Monte Carlo, Monaco; Barcelona, and Montreal. l Bauza wants to win, and winning, in her view, means listening to consumers—even if it means convincing brands to tweak their approach. The outgoing, Puerto Rican–born executive informally chats with customers in the store, accompanies consumers on shop-alongs and listens in on Wal-Mart–hosted focus groups. Consumers’ input is embedded in the new cosmetics wall. “We put hundreds of consumers in front of the wall and they voted,” she says. For instance, many mass e retailers allow each beauty brand to organize their offering within their allotted space as they see fi t. But Wal-Mart, based on shoppers’ insights, had each brand organize its assortment into three vertical categories—lips, eyes and face—for ease of shopping. Bauza herself stood in front of her competitors’ walls prior to Wal-Mart’s revamp only to discover most looked strikingly similar. She then gave her suppliers marching orders: “Each retail experience has to be different.” Within Wal-Mart’s universal display fi xture, a smaller assortment of brands—including Cover Girl, Maybelline New York, L’Oréal Paris, Revlon, Almay, Physicians Formula and Hard Candy—customizes its visuals and product trays. For instance, in the North Bergen, N.J., store, L’Oréal Paris’ Mart’s tag line, “Save Money. Live Better.” She says of the they couldn’t remember which brand made it. display includes a shadow box with three mascaras under efforts to turn up the volume: “We were somewhat quiet Using that insight as a guide, Wal-Mart’s beauty the words “Mascaras for Every Lash.” Hard Candy displays about beauty. We had just been delivering.” brands now carve out space (read: remove some an illustration of an eye with the products used to create One consumer insight that surprises her is consumers product) within their displays to tout new items, the look, and Cover Girl has a photo of spokesmodel Drew sometimes see new technology before the brand name, technology and product benefi ts. The changes are all in Barrymore and the products used to create her look. which she discovered after listening to women excitedly the name of the consumer. Bauza also unveiled a new ad campaign, reading: talk about a double-ended mascara with a lash-growing “The past is the past,” says Bauza. “This is a new “Unbeatable prices. Incredible you,” followed by Wal- serum. While they could easily list the product’s benefi ts, day.…We have to shake it up.”

GUIDO PALAU, hairstylist, they are searching for now FABRIZIO FREDA, president evolution of our distribution Redken creative consultant: is a quick fi x for this—in and ceo, The Estée Lauder channels and the explosion The beauty business is other words, if a celeb can Cos.: The recession has of a new digital reality. In changing in a way that do it, then why can’t I? further accelerated the pace the upcoming recovery, some women are so much more of change in our industry: of these changes will take educated and have access to impressive growth in root, but it will be a world everything via the Internet. FRANCIS KURKDJIAN, founder, developing markets, consumers where past experience is less Celebrity culture has made Maison Francis Kurkdjian: refocusing on trusted predictive of future results. women very aware that it’s Today, luxury is not a quality and smart purchases, More than ever, creativity completely possible to change question of price, but of younger and multiethnic and entrepreneurship will be , hair color and dream. It’s necessary to consumers responding to new the key drivers of success. makeup as quickly as the relearn how to seduce the and different aspirations, celebrity women do in the consumer with meaningful new shopping preferences magazines they read. What products. continuing to drive the

BB1005.036-041.GameChangers.b;14.indd 41 4/28/10 4:39:31 PM $ i t i w c For those whose jobs depend on staying on the cutting edge of i i the style loop (and that would be virtually everyone in the beauty a t F business), trend analysis has become much less costly and “ “ infi nitely easier with the explosion of the blogosphere and social c t networking. Still, drilling down to the best the Internet has to offer p S could easily become a full-time job. These 12 multidimensional, w must-bookmark sites—a mix of major players and on-a-shoestring b indies—represent the best of the bunch, with a fresh vision on the industry’s key infl uencers. BY DANA WOOD

BEAUTIFUL STRANGER BEAUTIFULSTRANGER.TV Roughly HAUL VIDEOS three years YOUTUBE.COM postlaunch, this gal-on- Not an especially glamorous the-street moniker, a “haul” is a proud site BECAUSE I’M video display of all the goodies has added ADDICTED bought by the poster at the commerce. According to partners BECAUSEIMADDICTED.NET local mall. To the uninitiated, Abby Wallach and Melissa Fedor, it can come as quite a shock monetizing was always a goal, The night job of Los Angeles–based that there are thousands of but it took major recon before fashion savant Geri Hirsch (by COÛTE QUE COÛTE these documented shopping sprees they struck an alliance with day, she’s a marketing exec for COUTEQUECOUTE.BLOGSPOT.COM on YouTube. Start by checking Media/And, which specializes in Good, an innovative philanthropy out Blair Fowler, aka JuicyStar, attaching dollar signs to online and green portal), Addicted Digital eye candy for the time- who had racked up more than 16 content, particularly videos. offers a bird’s-eye peek into deprived, this site sifts through million channel views as of early Though Beautiful Stranger has the brain of a style-obsessed stacks of edgy international April, nabbed an appearance on always provided where-to-buy info twentysomething. Yes, there are fashion magazines so you don’t Good Morning America and landed via links, by teaming with Media/ more than a few pictures of her have to. By extracting directional a story in Seventeen magazine. And, which provides back-end in pricy skinny jeans, but here’s editorials from the likes of But before plunging in, be technology and access to more than what surprises: the sophistication Dazed & Confused, British Vogue forewarned: This is the cyber 3,000 Internet affi liates, the duo of Hirsch’s edit, which is culled and the Russian edition of version of the Wild West. So if, will now receive a cut of any item from all the major fashion Citizen K, and presenting them in as a marketer, you’re initially that gets bought by its users. Now capitals and refl ects a deep a lush, almost life-size format, thrilled to see that there’s comes the hard part: going back knowledge of the international Coûte Que Coûte provides a way to a haul posted of the brand to into the 100-plus video profi les scene. The mix is eclectic, do a deep fashion dive with speed which you’re professionally and scores of static “Street featuring everything from killer and effi ciency. The handiwork attached, know that the haulers— Snaps” and tweaking the product tortoiseshell sunglasses and of a Germany-based blogger and teens, for the most part—can mentions so they’re shoppable. a recipe for fried goat cheese creative whiz named Roberto and do say whatever they want. Sometimes they have to dig deep, salad to news that she’s been Poropat, it also serves up look Sure, they’re bound to give a as with the Gucci Westman video, invited to cover Russian Fashion books and ad campaigns from an thumbs-up; after all, they’ve in which the star makeup artist Week. And certainly no one could array of buzzy brands. Trust that mostly plunked down their own has no idea what shoes she’s accuse Hirsch of being verbose. its modest tag line—“insignifi cant hard-earned cash for this stuff. wearing. Turns out they’re Spring Attached to photos of Kate Moss random news on fashion, art But let’s just say that not Court tennies. “Those took about from a 2006 French Vogue sitting & design and pop culture”— every kid in the candy store is an hour to fi nd,” says Fedor. is a single word of copy: “Epic.” underplays its value. a dream brand ambassador.

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BB1005.042-043.SocialStudies.a;6.indd 42 4/27/10 5:21:28 PM NET-A-PORTER NOWNESS POLYVORE SIGNATURE 9 NET-A-PORTER.COM NOWNESS.COM POLYVORE.COM SIGNATURE9.COM Recently Although it DIY scrapbooking with an Slightly purchased by scrapped ultraslick spin, Polyvore rips off the Compagnie eLuxury.com fashion styling out of the grid but Financière to make way hands of industry insiders and seriously Richemont for the tosses it over to the people dialed SA for a content-only who actually buy the clothes. By in, this whopping Nowness, allowing its members to create site is a $530 million, this megasite make no mistake: LVMH is still their own “sets” (aka head-to-toe veritable font of “lifestyle” isn’t an indie upstart. But very much playing in the high- looks) via its virtual styling recon. Per publisher and founding then again, it couldn’t produce end pocket of cyberspace. After tool, the hope is that they’ll editor YM Ousley, the 18-month- its lush online magazine if it all, what could be more luxe than click through to the dress, bag, old site aims to provide, were. Updated weekly, it’s as a site devoted to indulging the shoes, etc., and plunk down through research and commentary, close to a bona fi de glossy as outré leanings of contributors the plastic. None of the sales a “unique perspective on the it gets. Actually, because it such as Patti Smith, Lucien Freud are direct, but are instead products, places and things that incorporates some key Web bells and Rodarte? Curated by Another funneled to aggregates such defi ne signature style.” That and whistles, it even ups the Magazine’s Jefferson Hack, as Net-a-porter or individual translates into a running feature traditional magazine ante a bit. Nowness features a broad array brand Web sites. The staggering on indie brands and comprehensive For instance, in the 23-page of stunning imagery. Each day, number of monthly page views (140 rankings of fashion blogs and “Red Carpet Glamour” issue, the a new tidbit from fashion, art, million, per the company) means social style sites. The m.o. “cover” boasts blinding paparazzi culture or travel is posted, often there’s a high likelihood that here is to keep tabs on industry camera fl ashes. Of course, all exclusively. Case in point: The at least a little or infl uencers. Another way this site that pizzazz has a downside: can’t-take-your-eyes-off-it black- BCBG Max Azria is making it into sets itself apart: Men’s style pages that load oh so slowly. and-white fi lm Flying Hair, in closets across the country. gets plenty of love, too. Still, for the patient, there’s a which model fl ings wealth of data to be gleaned on her Sam McKnight–styled locks buzzy people, places and things. around in slo-mo. It runs for two minutes, but the visually inclined will wish that it lasted forever.

STYLEITE STYLEITE.COM VOGUE.IT With its signature With a “Power rep for Grids,” being the Styleite—one STYLE SAMPLE edgiest of four MAGAZINE show pony sites under STYLESAMPLEMAG.COM in Vogue’s Dan Abrams’ just-shy-of-a-year- global old Mediaite LLC umbrella—is A free digital magazine focused stable, aiming for the inside track of on and written by fashion THE GLAMOURAI Italian Vogue is every bit an extremely insular business. bloggers, Style Sample just THEGLAMOURAI.COM as directional and boundary Not an easy task, which would released its sixth issue. While pushing with its English- explain the slight stumbling the base site is more of a boon Cleverly written by busy-bee speaking Web site. Most notable out of the starting gate. (To for bloggers (it provides plenty stylist/jewelry designer/blogger is the content-rich “Black” wit, hair god Serge Normant of how-to info and technology Kelly Framel, this site unveils subsection, which cements the is inexplicably lumped into tips), it also allows readers a visual feast of the author’s clout the magazine received the “fashion stylist” grid to click through to the issues. “costumes” (she recently segued for its seminal – alongside sittings czarinas And that’s where an overload of from vintage nut to pretty punk) helmed “Black” issue from Rachel Zoe and Katie Grand.) creativity lives. Although it’s alongside lots of images of just July 2008, posted here in Still, it’s a lively mash-up of all a bit meta for anyone who about anything that strikes her full alongside “Look of the trade and consumer. For non– isn’t personally in the blogging fancy, be it a pile of doll Day,” “The Black Blog” and industry types, the site offers trenches, it’s an excellent heads at a Texas fl ea market or “New Faces.” Also of interest: interactive “Style Sheets” that venue for scouting talent for Chanel’s Nouvelle Vague nail the service- and tips-centric allow readers to upload images possible corporate sponsorship. lacquer. Her running commentary “Curvy” section, and “Talents,” of themselves decked out to the Beyond that, it’s just a is brief, albeit sharp, and which showcases both on-the- nines. They can then tag specifi c fascinating place to hang out Framel herself is hard to peel rise designers and Franca items they’re wearing, and for anyone whose job description your eyes from. A genuine dyed- Sozzani’s irresistibly straight- presto—instant status conferred. includes style. in-the-wool stylista. shooting “Editor’s Blog.”

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BB1005.042-043.SocialStudies.a;6.indd 43 4/27/10 5:21:53 PM The process of retouching in fashion and beauty photographs is coming under increasing scrutiny by legislators and consumers alike, giving a whole new defi nition to the phrase “picture perfect.” BY JENNIFER WEIL PHOTOGRAPHED BY KEVIN MACKINTOSH

op-tart Jessica Simpson bares all on the May consumers, driving a dramatic change in the look and Advertising Practice received a report compiled by cover of Marie Claire. She isn’t in the buff, feel of some fashion and beauty images, both on the more than 40 international academics that demanded a P but—as the headline blares—the actress-singer advertising and editorial fronts. ban on ads featuring digitally altered models targeting has “no makeup, no retouching, no regrets!” “Postrecession, we are back to a more natural look,” girls under 16. The report shows unhealthy behavior Seemingly, neither do Kim Kardashian, Joy Bryant says Joanna Coles, editor in chief of Marie Claire. in adolescents who are exposed to images of skinny, nor Amanda de Cadenet, who appear sans retouches or “There has been a recalibration of people’s attitudes. airbrushed models. a stitch of clothing in the May issue of Harper’s Bazaar. Those highly retouched pictures, where everything is The proposals in France and the U.K. aren’t likely They join a growing list of famous beauties, including glossed out to make the person look perfect, look both to become law anytime soon, but in March, the Claudia Schiffer, and Cindy unrealistic and old fashioned now.” Spanish government took a legal stance on body image Crawford, all of whom have posed au naturel—with no “People are speaking about retouching more and and advertising when it approved a law prohibiting retouching—in the last year in various magazines. more for good reason—because they’ve had enough,” ads “that promote body culture” from being aired on No longer the paragons of perfection we’re used agrees Dr. Linda Papadopoulos, a reader in psychology television between 6 a.m. and 10 p.m. This includes to seeing gaze vacantly from a glossy cover—all with at London Metropolitan University. “There is study weight-loss products, some surgical procedures and computer-generated pore-less skin, blindingly white after study that shows women, when exposed to aesthetic treatments. teeth and impossibly lithe fi gures—the women still look unrealistic images, feel bad about themselves.” While many fi nd the idea of labeling laws insulting gorgeous. They just look more, well, human. The din has reached such levels that a law was to the public’s collective intelligence (says Madonna When it comes to beauty, perfection, it seems, is proposed in France in September that could require all Badger, chief executive offi cer of the eponymous so 2009. As is retouching, the art of altering a picture retouched photos to be labeled as such. Valérie Boyer, a advertising and branding fi rm: “The idea that we have (for better or for worse), a heretofore accepted industry member of President Nicolas Sarkozy’s UMP party, and to put disclaimers on retouched images seems absurd practice that has come into question of late. some 50 other politicians suggested the law partly to in the same way that they didn’t put disclaimers on Consider: In September, Self magazine was criticized combat what they see as warped images of women’s bodies Greek statues of Diana”), most agree that the quest for for over-retouching a cover image of songstress Kelly that encourage eating disorders. The proposed legislation perfection has reached its outer limits. Clarkson, where inches of her frame were digitally would cover advertising, press photographs, political “The objectifi cation of the female form has gone so removed. In the end, it was one of the magazine’s campaigns, art photography and images on packaging. far that we’re not actually really objectifying it purely worst-selling issues on newsstands for the year. Just six weeks later, the U.K.’s Committee of anymore. We’re objectifying a fantasy of the female Consider: In July, a campaign for Olay Defi nity form,” says Papadopoulos. Eye Illuminator featuring Twiggy caused public stir in “What is reality, because of , Botox, the U.K., when people deemed the image (including collagen fi llers and all of those pieces?” questions retouching around the model’s eyes) misleading. Badger. “The idea of beauty and the fact that what is Consider: Outspoken models (think , “Those highly retouched images, considered to be beautiful and what is real are really Filippa Hamilton and ) have gained where everything is glossed out to light-years apart from one another.” accolades—and considerable media attention—by The perpetuation of the fantasy has led to the celebrating their fuller fi gures and pushing body image make the person look perfect, look inevitable backlash—a desire for more realistic images. issues into the public domain. “Some of the crazy excesses of the last decade are Although retouching dates back practically to both unrealistic and old fashioned being reined in,” says Cindi Leive, editor in chief photography’s advent, a confl uence of sociocultural of Glamour magazine. “In general, the sort of over- factors has made it a talking point today for everyone now,” says Joanna Coles. retouching that occasionally bordered on butchering from editors and image makers to legislators and seems to be a little less prevalent.

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BB1005.044-047.ALTVISION.a;9.indd 45 4/27/10 5:07:53 PM “There’s more of a sense now on everybody’s part— “I’ve worked with actresses who have made me take designers, marketers, photographers and the retouchers one eye that they thought looked better because it was themselves—that people want to see a little bit of reality,” “Fashion photography is the more open and put it on the other side of their face, as Leive continues. “They don’t want to see something that well, so that they looked more even,” says Badger. is the platonic ideal of the female form. They want to transmitting of and conveying of Although excesses are easy to identify, fi nding see the female form. That having been said, retouching desires through fantasy,” says Nick the perfect balance remains a fi ne line. In beauty and is obviously incredibly prevalent. The tools are on the fashion magazines, says Leive, “you want to see glamour desktop of any human with a computer now, so that Knight. “That’s its role, that’s its and you want to see beauty and you want to see women doesn’t mean everybody can do it well, but everybody can looking fabulous, but you also want to feel that those do it. And that’s just added to the prevalence.” purpose. It isn’t a record of reality.” are women just like you—not some alien race of people Paradoxically, the very ubiquity of celebrity images— who were born with fl at tummies and toothpick legs.” via print and online media—is helping to drive the desire And, notes DeCaro: “Beautiful images with an toward more natural images. Credit Us magazine and its associated emotional connection will always resonate “Stars! They’re Just Like Us” section and others of its ilk, someone has a spot, or they come in with a cold sore, with women. Visuals that are aspirational yet which show celebrities in all of their mundane, everyday those things we would get rid of,” says Coles. “But for approachable are particularly relevant.” glory, looking radically different from the perfected the most part, we really keep it as light as we can. We do Plus-size model Renn has fi rsthand experience. “The images they portray on the covers of fashion or beauty it in the way the reader would on their Facebook picture. point of a photograph is to be aspirational,” she says. magazines. “The immediacy of the Internet and social We’re not smoothing out someone’s wrinkles completely.” “When you hire a model who is a size 12 and make networking are the ultimate reality check,” says Charles Despite the aspirational and transformational her a 2, there is no point to that—it just feeds into the Decaro, co-founder and co–creative director of Laspata promises inherent in beauty, presenting a more realistic sick obsession that thin is the only way to attain beauty.

DeCaro creative marketing agency. “Posted images of image makes good business sense. “Images that convey On the other hand, it’s not about taking a size 12 and POSTPRODUCTION DIGITAL TOUCH DIGITAL-LONDON; BY BLOCKS WOODEN FROM PAULA RUBENSTEIN celebrities at Starbucks are decidedly inconsistent with a more realistic vision of beauty may validate a brand’s showing rolls to make a point, and sensationalizing. their airbrushed avatars that appear in print.” credibility,” says DeCaro, who worked on Ulta’s current That is fetishizing.” The residual effects of the global economic meltdown ad campaign, which was photographed outdoors in The debate over retouching raises as many are also the primary catalysts driving the backlash against a natural-light environment that facilitates minimal philosophical arguments as it seeks to lay to rest. perfection, notes DeCaro. “There is a pervasive air of image retouching. Corresponding “Get the Look” Photographer Nick Knight says the choice of lens used suspicion that prompts consumers to question purchases videos on the retailer’s Web site show how consumers to take a photo with and the height a camera is operated from rust removers to fi ne-line erasers with greater can achieve a beauty look, plus see a model before, from create the most profound change to an image. He scrutiny,” he says. “Transparency is the bon mot. Does a during and after her makeover. explains that photography is essentially one frame in a respective product deliver on a promise or are consumers Of course, retouching a photograph is nothing fi lm—that the camera takes an image out of context. victim to deceptive overtures?” new; the practice is centuries old. Photo tinting dates “We’re quite happy to go to the movies and watch That shift has led many in the beauty arena to back to the 1840s, only about 25 years after Nicéphore any amount of fantasy,” says Knight. “We’ll be happily rethink their approaches to ad campaign visuals. Niépce created the fi rst permanent photograph. The swept up in the whole thing, and that’s a little bit “Communications standards continually change, and earliest example of photo manipulation known by Hany the area that fashion photography occupies. Fashion our job as communicators is to make sure we continue Farid, a professor at Dartmouth College specializing in photography is the transmitting of and conveying to focus on the core promise of the product in a way digital manipulation and forensics, is from 1860. His of desires through fantasy. That’s its role, that’s its that’s honest and inspirational to our consumers,” says favorite old-time altered image is a portrait of President purpose. It isn’t a record of reality.” Charlene Sawyers, vice president of brand building Abraham Lincoln in a regal pose. As it turns out, the “If you think about photography as being reality, for beauty and grooming at Procter & Gamble, who image includes Senator John Caldwell Calhoun’s body it’s a bit of a twisted view, because it’s one point of notes the company’s policy on retouching hasn’t and Lincoln’s head, muses Farid, adding: “What’s really view,” agrees Pascal Dangin, the founder and ceo of altered. “[Retouching is] nonlegit if it overly promises amazing is how good the fake is. You see stuff today all Box, who’s largely considered the modern-day master the benefi ts being delivered and if it strips away the over the Internet—there are just horrible comparatives.” of retouching. He points out that even black-and-white humanity of the talent, the model. What women are In the 1860s, a lot of Civil War photography photos can be considered unreal, since people see the seeing very much in advertising today is the personality was altered either by staging or outright image world in color. of the talent coming through.” manipulation. From the Thirties through the Fifties, “Photography has never been there to represent Coupled with that is a greater desire on the part of retouching became increasingly widespread, and reality, but rather to interpret reality,” says Dangin. “So consumers to see diverse defi nitions of physical beauty. today it runs the gamut from simple touch-ups to the where can we make a defi nition of being untouched at “We’ve coined it ‘the end of ethnicity,’ where it’s no reassembling of people’s faces and bodies. all? [The image-making process has] always been about longer just about black, white, yellow, green women, an idealization of something. The point of idealization but it’s that blurring that we know is happening and beautifi cation has always been the same—from everywhere,” says Sawyers. “So the beauty imagery that early painting to cinema today. We always want to look people are yearning for is very diverse, but it’s in the a little better than we are.” sense that you can’t exactly pinpoint the ethnicity of the Jessica Simpson, Only time will tell if the proposed legislation in woman. And actually, that is the appeal.” left, and Claudia Europe has a lasting legal impact on the beauty and The demise of the Barbie doll ideal has ushered in Schiffer, below, are publishing industries—most experts think it won’t—but a new age of individuality. “There is a premium now two beauties who it does beg the question of whether art will trump on women who just look individual,” says Leive. “Like bared all on recent commerce or vice versa. “If photography’s main purpose with the gap in the teeth, the freckles, the hair that does magazine covers. was really just to show us what’s out there, well, look out whatever it was born to do rather than being tortured the window, because that’s reality,” says Knight. “But into being stick straight. You could do incredibly glossy, photography’s main purpose isn’t that. It’s an art, which beautiful, glamorized, perfected images of those women, allows you to understand somebody else’s opinions.” but retaining that sense of quirk and individuality seems For his part, Knight now uses a video camera that can to be big and attractive right now. take still and 3-D images from video grabs. To him, other “What we’ve heard from readers is that they want exciting media include fi lm and live broadcasting, like he to see a little authenticity, and so we don’t do the kind uses on his site, SHOWstudio.com. “On the horizon, you of retouching that would offend them,” continues have fashion sculpture and fashion objects,” he says. Leive, noting that she has no compunction about “[Photography] shouldn’t be something we are making minor changes to photographs. “Readers aren’t debating or trying to restrict in this particular way, and objecting to you darkening the sky behind the type so that is why this whole concept is so far from the mark,” that your white title reads better. They’re objecting to Knight continues. “I would much rather more women making somebody’s skin more perfect, making their looked at their own image and felt empowered by it, but thigh thinner and remaking a size 12 person into a size that’s a whole range of different things that we’ve got to 2 person. That’s the kind of thing we don’t do.” change in our society.” —WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM BRID Retouching is cursory at Marie Claire, too. “If COSTELLO AND BARBARA BARKER

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Styled by Daryl McGregor

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BB1005.044-047.ALTVISION.a;9.indd 47 4/27/10 5:08:58 PM When it comes to discovering fashion’s next breakthrough beauty, casting director Michelle Lee has the magic touch. Here, four models she’s dubbed the faces of the future. BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANTHONY MAULE

TATI COTLIAR 21 YEARS OLD, AGENCY: NEXT Heralded as one of the breakout beauties of the fall season (she walked in more than 50 shows), ati Cotliar, a 21-year-old Argentine, had been is really vested—she has perspective, she has opinions and knocking around the modeling world for about a year her castings refl ect her ideas of beauty. She stands by her Tati Cotliar’s original ambition centered around without much success. Her fate changed in a convictions and doesn’t necessarily react to what everyone being behind a camera, rather than in front of nanosecond when, in March, she sauntered onto the Marc else is doing,” he continues. “She really backs the talent who Jacobs runway as the opening model, sporting a slate gray she thinks has the ability to go the distance in this business.” one. Before being discovered, Cotliar studied sweater and matching culottes. Take Cotliar, whose strong character perfectly cinema direction in her native Buenos Aires. Suddenly, Cotliar was everywhere: New York magazine’s exemplifi es the shifting tides of fashion as Lee sees it. fashion blog named her “Top Model” of the day 24 hours “Beauty is more than just the outer aesthetic today,” says Still passionate about fi lm (her favorites include later. Models.com featured her in its top 10 newcomers. Lee. “There has to be something beyond a symmetrical face Woody Allan’s Manhattan, Pedro Almodóvar’s All Miuccia Prada tapped her to close the Miu Miu show and pouty lips. A model has to have a strong sense of self. in Paris, where she also walked in Chanel, Rochas and “What I hear most often from clients is that they want About My Mother and Fritz Lang’s Metropolis), Valentino, to name a few. models with personality and energy,” continues Lee, who Cotliar brings a sense of the dramatic to every Such is the power of being cast in the right show. Such hand-picked the four young women in this portfolio to is the power of Michelle Lee, the 34-year-old go-to casting represent her vision of the direction beauty is taking today. job she takes. “I try to create characters,” she director for Marc Jacobs, as well as a host of other fashion “There is no room for boring or conventional. Even if a says. “There’s always a story to tell, in every world infl uentials such as Interview’s Karl Templer and model is classically beautiful, she must come with an attitude Katie Grand, the editor of Love magazine, with whom she’s that is anything but.” shooting, in every fashion show.” worked on Topshop and Louis Vuitton, among others. In other words, those willowy, prepubescent, vacant- “She has an energy of her own,” says Lee. “The fi rst time Tati came to see me, she was as she is eyed beauties who dominated the ranks of modeling in the now—quirky, animated and completely fearless,” recalls Lee. recent past—their time has come and gone. The recession “She’s quirky, but when you look at the actual “No one picked up on her. This season, Marc told me he was has ushered in a new era, one in which personality is valued structure of her face, she’s quite beautiful.” looking for characters, a very specifi c type of character,” she as much as pore-less skin. “In the last year, a wave of strong continues. “I showed him girls who I thought were perfect models has emerged—beautiful, quirky, tall, short, curvy, Cotliar’s eclecticism shows up in everything and Tati was one of those girls.” whatever—they have to have character,” says Lee, who from her work to her clothing. “I’m a little bit Thus, a star is born. Not that Lee, who is disarmingly notes the change was particularly noticeable during the self-effacing and likes to pepper her speech with “God fall 2010 show season, which saw a wide variety of models crazy, but I like to develop a character in every bless her,” would ever take credit for making (or breaking) on the runway, from of-the-moment fashion stars such as outfi t I wear,” she says, today decked out in a a model. But when a modeling agent wants to get a hot and Iris Strubegger to what Lee dubs the prospect in front of the right eyes, Lee and her fellow casting “Victoria’s Secret girls,” like sexy bombshells , Marc Jacobs purple lamé ruffl ed skirt worn with a directors (see sidebar, page 50) are their fi rst port of call. and and striped sweater and brown Beatle boots. “I like to Who they like—and why—not only refl ects our collective of yore like . notions of beauty, it helps shape it. “Whether it’s a show, an ad or editorial, people want play with my image to show what I have inside.” “Casting directors are the people who screen the latest to relate to the images that they’re looking at now. If a girl Jacket by Louis Vuitton; bra by Marc Jacobs; talent for the designers and often are super visionary and are is either too perfect or blank, you can’t connect,” Lee says. trousers by Stella McCartney. able to see things in the beginning that others don’t,” says “If you can look at this image and there’s a character who’s Kyle Hagler, a senior manager at IMG Models. “Michelle emotive, you’re more likely to stop and look and read and

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BB1005.048-53.GoldenEye.a;11.indd 48 4/28/10 6:57:47 PM BB1005.048-53.GoldenEye.a;11.indd 49 4/28/10 6:58:10 PM digest what it’s saying about the brand or the product. The point is, it’s girls with character, with personality, who you can relate to.” ILVIE WITTEK Lee’s philosophy informs her method of working. When 18 YEARS OLD, AGENCY: DNA a model comes to see her, Lee tries to get a sense of her as a person, not just a pretty face, and one of her favorite aspects First discovered at the age of 15 while riding the metro in her native Vienna, Ilvie Wittek of her job is watching girls—whom she often meets as decided to finish school first before hitting the modeling circuit. The wait was worth it. young as 13 or 14—develop over time. During the twice- annual fashion show marathon (“Show week is a misnomer,” Wittek landed spots in the most coveted shows for fall 2010, walking in Marc Jacobs in she laughs. “It’s show two months”), she makes a point of New York, Topshop in London, Prada in and Louis Vuitton in Paris. “She has quite seeing every single model—from the newest to the most established—all over again. a developed face for such a young girl and such an interesting look,” says Lee. “She’s got Lee works under the aegis of the production and beautiful lips and that pale, perfect skin.” The combination has captured the attention of publicity company KCD, where she got her start 12 years ago. Since then, she’s seen beauty cycle through a multitude both cutting-edge and mainstream magazines, from Dazed & Confused to British Vogue. of phases, from the Brazilians to the Belgians to the Wittek’s personal style is equally as diverse. “It changes all the time,” she says. “Sometimes Russians (next up will be a Norwegian wave, she predicts). Through it all, there’s one main lesson she’s learned. I’m very elegant, then I have my hip-hop thing. I wear what makes me feel good.” “You’ve got to be open,” she says. “Beauty is evolving and Dress and belt by A.F. Vandevorst; shirt by Max Mara; bra by American Apparel. the public’s perception of beauty is evolving and you have to keep up with it.” KEY CASTING DIRECTORS Michelle Lee BY CINNAMON ST. JOHN RUSSELL MARSH When it comes to models, London-based Russell Marsh has the Midas touch. For more than 10 years, his collaboration with Miuccia Prada has commanded the attention of the entire fashion world. Each season, all eyes turn to Prada’s runway to see which relative unknown will become tomorrow’s “It” girl. Among the names on Marsh’s discovery list are Lara Stone, Daria Werbowy and Sasha Pivovarova. MAIDA GRÉGORY-BOINA Maida Grégory-Boina has had a vibrant and diverse career since the Eighties, balancing casting with her work as a stylist. Her client list reads like a who’s who in fashion and entertainment: music videos for Madonna, Michael Jackson and Prince, and casting for Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Yohji Yamamoto. “Beauty is about elegance, style, grace, mystery,” she says. “I’m not someone who’s going to fall into some kind of dictates.” ANGUS MUNRO AND NOAH SHELLEY FOR AM CASTING Without Angus Munro, superstar might have been just another pretty face. Determined to overcome the perception that Rubik was a bit too commercial, Munro booked her for all his projects until others saw what he did. That keen eye has served this former agent well. In 2006, he joined forces with casting director Noah Shelley. Now designers such as Matthew Williamson and Narciso Rodriguez and magazines including V and i-D clamor for this duo’s vision. A good model, in Munro’s eyes, has “a blend of good proportion, luxuriant skin and hair, bone structure and a facial symmetry,” he says, quickly adding: “And a bit of spark never goes amiss!” ANITA BITTON FOR THE ESTABLISHMENT Anita Bitton tasted the appeal of fashion early as a former child model in England. She later cut her teeth in New York as a model scout and agent. From top photographers such as Richard Avedon and Craig McDean to designers like Donna Karan and Alexander Wang to magazines such as Vogue and Dazed & Confused, her clients have all relied on her talent for picking the next “It” model. Her 25 years in the business have honed Bitton’s eye. “I’ve come to recognize what Eileen Ford called the X factor,” she says. “Some girls and boys have a natural ease that is somewhat disarming. This is always a pleasant surprise.” BARBARA NICOLI “There is no room for boring or conventional,” Barbara Nicoli’s infl uence reaches far beyond her native Italy. says Michelle Lee. “Even if a model is Among her clients, Nicoli counts Burberry, Gucci, Emilio Pucci and , and she also frequently collaborates with cutting- classically beautiful, she must come with an edge magazines such as Amica, i-D and Dazed & Confused. With 15 years of experience, Nicoli is noticing what she terms “a attitude that is anything but.” rebellion in the system. The actual trend,” she says, “is now to go back and look at the Nineties to early 2000 supermodels. Less new faces and defi nitely more women.”

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BB1005.048-53.GoldenEye.a;11.indd 50 4/28/10 6:58:36 PM WWD BEAUTY BIZ 51

BB1005.048-53.GoldenEye.a;11.indd 51 4/28/10 6:59:02 PM JOAN SMALLS 20 YEARS OLD, AGENCY: IMG Ask Joan Smalls to defi ne beauty and her answer is instantaneous: “Confi dence,” she says briskly. For the Puerto Rican–born model, it’s a winning attitude. Smalls had a stellar fall runway season, booking more than 30 shows and shooting with Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue. “Joan is stunning,” says Lee. “She has great bone structure and there’s something slightly masculine about her which is very modern. And she is a fantastic model—the way she moves, her eyes, her face. Her eyes engage with the camera, which, on a page, will engage with the audience. She exudes power.” Smalls hopes to use that power to propel her career to new heights. “My goal is to do things that have never been done, and if they have, to do them better,” she says, when asked how she’d like to see her career evolve. “I’m a go-getter. I think you shouldn’t conform to what people give you. You should strive for better things in life and have a dream.” Dress by Cushnie et Ochs; jacket by Donna Karan.

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BB1005.048-53.GoldenEye.a;11.indd 52 4/28/10 6:59:27 PM Hair by Bok-hee at Streeters; makeup by Ozvaldo Salvatierra at Streeters; styled by Polina Aronova at Streeters; manicures by Sunshine Outing for Artists by Next.

HIND SAHLI 19 YEARS OLD, AGENCY: DNA As a child, Hind Sahli dreamed of becoming a model. Now 19, the Casablanca, Morocco–born beauty is well on her way to reaching modeling’s top ranks, walking in the Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vera Wang shows for fall and being photographed by Meisel for an upcoming Italian Vogue feature on emerg- ing beauties. “Hind is devastatingly beautiful and so strong without being loud about it,” says Lee. No stranger to making her dreams come true, Sahli has lofty goals for her career: To appear on the cover of Vogue and to walk in the Victoria’s Secret runway show. “I love that the girls look so beautiful and so sexy, but that they also smile,” says the beatific beauty, who describes her style as very feminine. “I love the Sixties and Audrey Hepburn,” she says. “I wear a lot of dresses and heels. I only have two pairs of trousers at home.” Jacket by A.F. Vandevorst; bra by Araks.

BB1005.048-53.GoldenEye.a;11.indd 53 4/28/10 6:59:54 PM LAST CALL

HOW DO YOU DEFINE BEAUTY? looked, the way she dressed—everything Wide-set eyes, full lips—nobody invented about her. full lips—long neck, legs long. Good legs PLUS-SIZE MODELS SEEM TO A MODEL are essential. I’m sick and tired of seeing BE GAINING MORE SUCCESS, that the answer depends on the soul. You INCLUDING FORD’S CRYSTAL RENN. see those fl owers there? They’re beautiful. WHAT DOES THAT SAY ABOUT THE If you look at Venus Rising From the Sea, she INDUSTRY? could have been a good model. They act as if the revelation has come: MATRIARCH HOW HAVE YOU SEEN BEAUTY “There are large women.” Of course there STANDARDS EVOLVE SINCE YOU are large women. It’s not new. It’s been STARTED IN 1946? around ever since I was a stylist when I was Beauty changes. Physical beauty is easy 22 years old. to defi ne. Certain features don’t change. WHAT’S YOUR BEAUTY REGIME? ACHARD DELPHINE BY IMAN ARNAUD/CORBIS; MICHEL BY RLINGTON However, a “look” changes. Looks change First I cleanse. I use Lancôme. And, if I because clothes change. Skirt lengths don’t use Lancôme, I use L’Oréal. I don’t change, shoulders change, and therefore know why I have so many soaps. Then, the person in them has to be different. I use moisturizer and lip moisturizer. I For instance, now you see girls with big use different things. I’m just as earnest a bosoms. Back when I started, no one preserver of my youth as the next woman. had bosoms. Things like that change. I’ve written four books about beauty. When It’s always fascinating to watch. I’ve seen I look in the mirror, I wonder if I took my everything change. own advice in time. BEYOND HAVING THE RIGHT HOW DO YOU TAKE CARE OF YOUR LOOK AT THE RIGHT TIME, DOES A MIND AND BODY? MODEL’S PERSONALITY MATTER? I’m very strict about what I eat and about Caring is very important to your continued how I take care of my skin, because it success. You can be famous for a while, isn’t going to take care of itself. I exercise but when you see girls who’ve been in the every day of my life. I read the Financial business as long as they have, you know Times every day, The Wall Street Journal that they care. and the [New York] Post. I like biographies. HOW DO TIMES OF RECESSION Have you read Dancing to the Precipice [a IMPACT OUR NOTIONS OF BEAUTY? biography about Marie Antoinette]? You The recession will have no effect know, when you read them, you realize that whatsoever. Would you give up women really have always played a part moisturizer? Mascara? [Other women] somehow. They always say, “How did you have been using it a lot longer than you, do it as a woman?” I never had any trouble and do you think they’re going to give it doing anything as a woman. I did it because up? They’re not. I had to and it worked. HOW HAVE YOU SEEN THE BEAUTY HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT THE INDUSTRY CHANGE? AGENCY BEING SOLD [IN 2007]? Look at men and men’s products. A We’re not going to live forever. We know man was lucky if he had a badger brush, that. And we gave it to the children. I don’t 01 soap and a sharp razor, and then some think you can give a business to a child

of them wore perfume. Now, men take and say it’s yours and then tell them what FORD PHOTO FROM WWD ARCHIVE; ALEXIS COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION; BRINKLEY BY WARNER BROS./COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION; TU Eileen Ford revolutionized the modeling industry care of their skin and watch what they to do. My daughter sold the agency and eat. And it’s perfectly acceptable. It’s a she’s devoted her life to prevent human more than 60 years ago when she founded Ford wonderful transition. traffi cking. I’m so proud of her. Models. Together with her husband Jerry, Ford IS THE MODELING INDUSTRY WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER established practices that transformed model THE SAME NOW AS WHEN FORD TO YOUNG PEOPLE STARTING OUT? MODELS BEGAN? My advice is to their parents. Let your agencies into the organized businesses they are It’s different. I just had my children know that you believe in them. today. and are just 88th birthday and I heard That’s true about being a successful model from over a hundred former agent, too. The model has to know that you two of the famous faces she shepherded to models. Their lives were believe in her. And gosh knows we did. superstardom. Having thrived in a trade built on very important to me. It WHAT’S YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHT? presentation, no detail is lost on Ford. At 88, she wasn’t just a business. Marrying Jerry Ford! Jerry and I worked Our business was together and then we’d go home to see is immaculate. Long red nails and double-strand built on trust. They our children. We were married two pearls accent her dark knit pantsuit. Over an Earl trusted us and we months short of 64 years. And Jerry’s loved them. two-and-a-half years younger than I. I’m Grey tea, Ford casts her eagle eye on today’s WHAT DO YOU an original cougar. model industry and reveals how she stays on THINK ABOUT DO YOU HAVE A 05 top of her game. THE TREND OF MOTTO? CELEBRITIES I don’t. I live day to BY CINNAMON ST. JOHN REPLACING MODELS ON day, and so far it’s FASHION MAGAZINE worked out. I’m really 02 COVERS? lucky. That’s a good 01 Eileen Ford, and some of It’s very bad for the song, “Lucky to Be the beauties she’s shepherded over the years, including… model business. It Me.” I am lucky to be 02 Kim Alexis… didn’t surprise me—it me. It isn’t that I’ve 03 Christie Brinkley… 03 troubled me. I felt very wound up the richest 04 … 05 And . sorry for them because woman in the world. covers count for the I’m not the poorest model. On the other hand, woman in the world, but I my idol was Katharine certainly think I’m one of the 04 Hepburn. I loved the way she happiest—and luckiest.

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