Rush Hour by Meenal Mistry NEW YORK — Among Civilians, It’S a Little-Known Fact, but Fashion Folk Are Actually a Hardy Bunch

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Rush Hour by Meenal Mistry NEW YORK — Among Civilians, It’S a Little-Known Fact, but Fashion Folk Are Actually a Hardy Bunch FRANCES HITS FLA./2 WHAT THE LADIES ARE BUYING/4 Global Edition WWWomen’s Wear Daily • DTUESDAYThe Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • September 7, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Rush Hour By Meenal Mistry NEW YORK — Among civilians, it’s a little-known fact, but fashion folk are actually a hardy bunch. They are the practical sort who will let little stand in their way, especially when it comes to creating the potential 15- minute moment of glory that is the fashion show. That said, in preparing for this spring season, designers had two additional obstacles to accompany all the usual last-minute Carolina Herrera shares mayhem: an early start to fashion week, which will begin a a laugh with mere two days after Labor Day, and the Republican design director Herve Pierre National Convention, held right in the Garment District. Braillard. See Down, Page 6 PHOTO BY THOMASPHOTO BY IANNACCONE 2 WWD/GLOBAL, SEPTEMBER 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Fla. Retail Endures Frances Ready-to-Wear/Textiles PLANTATION, Fla. — Retail sorting through the destruction Group’s 27 Florida malls had GENERAL stores in Florida, after losing caused by hurricane Charley closed by Friday afternoon, said Now that the Republicans have left town, Seventh Avenue designers spent more than three shopping days when Frances began. Punta Les Morris, corporate spokesman. 1 the weekend getting ready for fashion week, which begins on Wednesday. due to hurricane Frances during Gorda and Port Charlotte Hurricane warnings were Having been pounded by hurricane Frances, Florida retailers, many closed the traditionally important seemed to take the brunt of lifted in Miami-Dade county by Labor Day sales weekend, began Charley’s wrath. 5 a.m. Sunday morning and sev- 2 since Thursday afternoon, began opening where possible on Monday. to slowly reopen on Monday Frances began moving to- eral of the malls began to open, EYE: A peek into the closets of some of New York’s chicest women, to forecast even as merchants and insurers ward the east coast of Florida including Simon’s Dadeland 4 fall’s biggest hits, shows Michael Kors and Yves Saint Laurent in the lead. began to assess total losses. on Thursday. By Friday, evacua- Mall in Miami, Morris said. The While the dollar count for tion orders for 2.5 million peo- company’s Broward County Diane von Furstenberg swept into her new Paris flagship boutique at 14 Rue physical damage and missed ple were issued — the largest malls and some of the Palm 15 D’Alger last week and directed the finishing touches. sales revenue won’t be known in the state’s history. As it Beach County malls, including Cartier tallied two legal victories against several retailers selling imitation for days, the total has been esti- spread across the state, the Town Center in Boca Raton, re- 16 Cartier, Panerai and Piaget watches over the Internet. mated to be as much as $20 bil- hurricane downed power lines, opened Monday. lion, according to state officials. flooded streets and brought Retailers at Bal Harbour Classified Advertisements ..................................................................18-19 Coupled with hurricane Charley, down trees. There were reports Shoppes, directly across the To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is which pounded the region three of several deaths in the state street from the Atlantic Ocean [email protected], using the individual’s name. weeks ago, depressing August due to Frances. north of Miami Beach, reopened retail sales, the total figure While Frances’ fierce winds on a voluntary basis on Sunday WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. could be as high as $40 billion. and hurricane conditions affect- at noon. Monday, the mall, in- VOLUME 188, NO. 50. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Nationwide spending in 2003 ed most of the state, the storm hit cluding anchors Neiman issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three for the back-to-school season, the central part of the eastern Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; which includes Labor Day week- coast, near Melbourne hardest. was open for holiday hours of Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, end, was $14.8 billion, according With hurricane warnings is- noon to 6. Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior to the National Retail Federation. sued for the entire east coast of Aventura Mall, in north Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at Some areas had just finished Florida, 15 of Simon Property Miami Beach, reopened Sunday additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration at noon, with around 80 percent No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. of stores prepared to do busi- POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR ness. About 20 percent were still DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is without power Monday and required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new ROBERTA some employees were unable to subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, report to work, said a spokes- please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild SCARPA woman for the Mall, which is an- magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully chored by J.C. Penney, Sears, screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Show-room Attila: WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Burdines. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND 552, Seventh Avenue, 2nd Floor Shopping centers that re- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED New York, NY 10018 opened on Sunday reported TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE strong traffic due to pent-up de- tel. 1.212.944.4700 ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. mand, although most people fax 1.212.921.0123 seemed to be more interested in Continued on page 17 TUESDAY:Neiman Marcus Group reports fourth-quar- ter and full-year sales and earnings. New York spring apparel market (through Sept. 24). WEDNESDAY:Olympus Fashion Week, New York Specify TAC on your Tech Packs (through Sept. 15). The Federal Reserve releases the Beige Book. Pulse show, Chicago (through Friday). & see the Savings! Moda In, Milan (through Friday). THURSDAY:Benetton Group reports second-quarter sales and earnings. International Vision Expo West, Las Vegas (through Saturday). FRIDAY:The Labor Department releases the Producer Price Index for August. The Commerce Department releases the import trade report for July. COMING THIS WEEK Action Sports Retailer show, San Diego (through Sunday). In Brief ● BONGO TANGO: Candie’s Inc., the owner of the Bongo trademark, won an injunction last week against its former denim licensees in Los Angeles. New York-based Candie’s and its subsidiary, Unzipped Apparel Inc., filed a breach of contract and fraud lawsuit last month in Los Angeles Superior Court against Sweet Sportswear LLC, Azteca Production International and Apparel Distribution Services, which owned the exclusive right to operate, manufacture and distribute Bongo jeans. The lawsuit seeks more than $50 mil- lion in damages. Candie’s wants to get some 600,000 pairs of jeans warehoused by the licensees so it can put them into stores next week in time for back-to-school. Deborah Sorell Stehr, senior vice president and general counsel for Candie’s, said the company planned to post a required $1.7 million bond for the goods. Edward Woods, co-counsel for the defendants, said his clients would file a cross complaint for fraud and breach of conduct in two weeks. Woods said Unzipped owes both ADS and Azteca about $3.5 million. Sweet owner Hubert Guez, who also is named in the suit, is owed $11 million in a promissory note, he said. Production Locations: Correction Bangladesh, Cambodia, Central America, China, Carole Kerner was not involved with launching the Hollister di- Dubai, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Mexico, vision of Abercrombie & Fitch, which was stated incorrectly in a Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Taiwan, Thailand, USA, Vietnam story on Sept.
Recommended publications
  • Charitably Chic Lynn Willis
    Philadelphia University Spring 2007 development of (PRODUCT) RED, a campaign significantly embraced by the fashion community. Companies working with Focus on . Alumni Focus on . Industry News (PRODUCT) RED donate a large percentage of their profits to the Global Fund to fight Lynn Willis Charitably Chic AIDS. For example, Emporio Armani’s line donates 40 percent of the gross profit By Sara Wetterlin and Chaisley Lussier By Kelsey Rose, Erin Satchell and Holly Ronan margin from its sales and the GAP donates Lynn Willis 50 percent. Additionally, American Express, Trends in fashion come and go, but graduated perhaps the first large company to join the fashions that promote important social from campaign, offers customers its RED card, causes are today’s “it” items. By working where one percent of a user’s purchases Philadelphia with charitable organizations, designers, University in goes toward funding AIDS research and companies and celebrities alike are jumping treatment. Motorola and Apple have also 1994 with on the bandwagon to help promote AIDS a Bachelor created red versions of their electronics and cancer awareness. that benefit the cause. The results from of Science In previous years, Ralph Lauren has the (PRODUCT) RED campaign have been in Fashion offered his time and millions of dollars to significant, with contributions totaling over Design. Willis breast cancer research and treatment, which $1.25 million in May 2006. is senior includes the establishment of health centers Despite the fashion industry’s focus on director for the disease. Now, Lauren has taken image, think about what you can do for of public his philanthropy further by lending his someone else when purchasing clothes relations Polo logo to the breast cancer cause with and other items.
    [Show full text]
  • Top Ten Fashion Designers
    Top Ten Fashion Designers In a society where we are bombarded with fashion, how on earth do we decide who the top ten designers are? Well, after quite a lot of pondering, I came up with some names that I thought were a well-rounded group of creative minds. These are the best from all over the board. So here goes. 1. VALENTINO GARAVANI. From Italy, this man knows how to make a woman look like a goddess. Having dressed many of the world's most famous leading ladies (such as Julia Roberts and Elizabeth Taylor), he has proven his talent and risen to the top as The King of Elegance. 2. TOM FORD Born in Texas this man is not only the Creative Director for Gucci, he's also the Creative Director for Yves Saint Laurent. Ford won the Best International Designer Award in 2000. 3. DONATELLA VERSACE is one of fashions most loved divas. Born in Calabria Italy, she took over her late brother Gianni Versace's design house. By following in his footsteps Donatella has become known for her sexy yet elegant designs. 4. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN is one of the worlds most innovative and outstanding designers. Known for his theatrical influence, his creations are not only beautiful but also colourful and raw. 5. BETSEY JOHNSON. Her designs are brilliant, bold and fun. They are funky and edgy, with a lifetime of flare. Straight from the American fashion capital [New York] Betsey is known for "her celebration of the exuberant". 6. RALPH LAUREN. He could possibly be the king of ready-to wear.
    [Show full text]
  • Grin and Bear It
    AMERICAN ANTHEM MADE IN THE USA IS SEEING A RESURGENCE AND IT’S A KEY POLITICAL ISSUE. SECTION II MALE MAKEOVER BERGDORF GOODMAN UNVEILS A REMODELED MEN’S DEPARTMENT. PAGE 3 LUXURY LAWSUITS Hermès Sues LVMH, LVMH Sues Hermès By JOELLE DIDERICH PARIS — Let the hostilities resume. Hermès International and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said Tuesday they were heading to court over their ongoing dispute regarding LVMH’s WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR D acquisition of a 22.3 percent stake in the maker of Birkin bags and silk scarves. WWD Hermès confi rmed that on July 10, it lodged a com- plaint with a Paris court against LVMH, which sur- prised markets by revealing in October 2010 that it had amassed a 17.1 percent stake in Hermès via cash- settled equity swaps that allowed it to circumvent the usual market rules requiring fi rms to declare share Grin and purchases. The world’s biggest luxury group has since steadily increased its stake, a move seen by Hermès offi cials as an attempt at a creeping takeover, despite reassur- Bear It ances from LVMH chairman and chief executive offi - cer Bernard Arnault that he is not seeking full control. With more than 50 “This complaint concerns the terms of LVMH’s ac- quisition of stock in Hermès International,” Hermès collections under her low- said in a two-line statement. It is accusing LVMH of slung belt, Donna Karan, insider trading, collusion and manipulating stock shown here in her studio, prices, according to a source familiar with the issue, who declined to be named for confi dentiality reasons.
    [Show full text]
  • Instant Conductors
    University of Central Florida STARS Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019 2015 Instant Conductors Mary Petralia University of Central Florida Part of the Creative Writing Commons Find similar works at: https://stars.library.ucf.edu/etd University of Central Florida Libraries http://library.ucf.edu This Masters Thesis (Open Access) is brought to you for free and open access by STARS. It has been accepted for inclusion in Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019 by an authorized administrator of STARS. For more information, please contact [email protected]. STARS Citation Petralia, Mary, "Instant Conductors" (2015). Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019. 1466. https://stars.library.ucf.edu/etd/1466 INSTANT CONDUCTORS by MARY PETRALIA A.A. Eastern Florida State College, 2008 B.A. University of Central Florida, 2012 A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Fine Arts in Creative Writing in the Department of English in the College of Arts and Humanities at the University of Central Florida Orlando, Florida Fall Term 2015 Major Professor: Russ Kesler © 2015 Mary Petralia ii ABSTRACT Instant Conductors is a collection of poems meant to engage the reader in conversation about the imperfect nature of the world in relation to the imperfect nature of readerly experience. Walt Whitman wrote, “I have instant conductors all over me whether I pass or stop / they seize every object and lead it harmlessly through me.” And so the things on these pages are intent on transmitting what one experiences in the minutiae of memory and routine: the sounds that surround a blackwater tidepool, what one imagines happens behind the closed doors of the friendly neighbors, or what’s heard in the whispers of an elderly man sitting in a waiting room.
    [Show full text]
  • Cathy Henszey Creative Director = Innovation + Marketer + Graphic Design + Manager + Talent Scout + Mentor
    Cathy Henszey Creative Director = innovation + marketer + graphic design + manager + talent scout + mentor Visionary designer with an impressive portfolio and record of driving business for diverse 347 886 2061 industries. Passion for creating sharp, professional, and unique designs that immediately attract clients. Skilled in developing high impact brand identities, advertising, marketing materials, web sites, and social media campaigns. Track record of meeting demanding www.cathyhenszey.com deadlines, communicating effectively, with multiple cross-functional teams, and leading [email protected] by example. Dedicated to finding the most cost-effective and creative solutions for all challenges. Known for taking a hands on approach in directing artists, collaborating with clients, and bringing creative concepts to life. Core Competencies Company Branding + Identity Development + Image Building + Client Service and management + Print Materials + Graphic Design + Marketing and Advertising + Communication Campaigns + Social Media Campaigns + Collateral Materials + Web Site Design + Packaging Design + Product Development + Event Design + Posters & Signs + Trend Forecasting + Retail Fixtures and Displays + Apparel Graphics and Trim Design + TV and Video + Conceptual Direction + Lay out and compositions + Font and Color Management + Staff Inspiration & Training + Project Management + Hiring and Recruiting + Typography + Budget Man- agement and Scheduling Recent Consulting and Design Projects 2012-2013 Sherle Wagner - Promotional designs for
    [Show full text]
  • Khaddafy Denies Libya Attacks Chad
    Consumer official says Tigers return favor, beat Chile protests cable firm makes plenty Yankees In last of tenth worry leaders page 3 ... page 15 ... page 4 Manchester, Conn. Saturday, Aug. 13, 1983 Single copy; 25<t Colonel arrives for maneuvers Khaddafy Bv Frederick Kiel United Press International denies Libya The American commander for U.S.-Honduran military ma­ neuvers has arrived in Teguci­ galpa, a Honduran officer said attacks Chad Friday. In Guatemala, the government said a top guerrilla NDJAMENA, Chad (UPI) - Habre also called on the Organi­ leader was killed, probably by Libyan bombers hammered the zation of African Unity, meeting another rebel faction. eastern oasis strongholds of Oum this weekend in Brazzaville, Col. Am ie Schossberg, in Chalouba and Kalait Friday and Congo, to stop "the Libyan aggres­ charge of joint military ma­ Chad's President Hissene Habre sion against Chad.” neuvers between Honduras and appealed to France and the United His office said Libyan planes the United States, arrived in States to intervene in the fighting. bombed Oum Chalouba and Kalait Tegucigalpa Thursday and was "The Libyan bombing has led to and unconfirmed reports reaching traveling Friday to Paimerola, the occupation of the entire north the capital said Libyan aircraft where the maneuver headquar­ of our country. We urgently appeal also attacked the village of Koro ters will be, Honduran army to our allies France and the United Toro 350 miles north of Ndjamena Chief of Staff Col. Jose Ab- States to intervene directly to stop Friday morning. denego Bueso Rosa said. this Libyan aggression,” Habre The town is the regrouping point said.
    [Show full text]
  • The Tustenegee 14 How Has Pioneer Linens Lasted 100 Years? ‘It Feels Like Home
    The Tustenegee 14 How has Pioneer Linens lasted 100 years? ‘It feels like home by Jan Tuckwood, Palm Beach Post Writer Re-printed with permission by The Palm Beach Post When Toby Keller’s daughter, Chelsea, got engaged, Keller knew what they must do: Go to Pioneer Linens so the bride-to-be could learn how a proper lady handles proper linens. There was just one woman who could teach her: Penny Murphy, president of Pioneer and Keller’s longtime friend. Drawing of the original Pioneer Linens storefront. Courtesy Penny Murphy. 15 April 2012 Linens are Murphy’s lineage, after all. From hardware store can run a profitable business.” She is the granddaughter of the man to luxury linens boutique Daughter Penny had no intention of who founded Pioneer 100 years ago Pioneer opened in 1912, the same running the store at all. She earned and the daughter of the dapper George year the Titanic sank, taking so many a master’s degree in early childhood Greenberg, the “Mayor of Clematis Victorian traditions of civility down with education and ran a school for several Street,” who ran Pioneer for 60 years it. years in Wellington. When her three and turned it into a destination. For Lake Worth was barely settled, let children - Alan, 31, Marissa, 29, and young ladies like Chelsea, this is a rite of alone civil, when Max Greenberg Camille, 26 - were born, she became “the passage: You get the diamond ring, then opened his “Pioneer Hardware” store ultimate room mother,” volunteering and you get the Pioneer lesson.
    [Show full text]
  • Inventaire Au 31 12 2010-1
    Inventaire commercial au 31 décembre 2010 Code Postal Commune Activité Enseigne Adresse Surface totale 69550 AMPLEPUIS Meubles SIMONET 7 rue de l'Egalité 400 69550 AMPLEPUIS Equipt-foyer-sauf-luminaires B&B-MILLE-ET-UNE-IDEES CHEMIN DE LA GAIETE 700 69550 AMPLEPUIS Supermarché ED CHEMIN DE LA GAIETE 681 69550 AMPLEPUIS Supermarché CARREFOUR-MARKET IMPASSE EDOUARD BRANLY 1800 69550 AMPLEPUIS Supermarché CARREFOUR-MARKET pres de la cloche 1800 69550 AMPLEPUIS Supermarché INTERMARCHE ROUTE DE ROANNE 1200 69550 AMPLEPUIS Fleurs-jardinerie GAMM-VERT RUE BRANLY 1125 69550 AMPLEPUIS Electroménager-Hifi-TV MOOS-ELECTROMENAGER ZI EDOUARD BRANLY 379 69550 AMPLEPUIS Vente-auto-neuves-occasions LEPINE ZI LA GAIETE 1900 69550 AMPLEPUIS Textiles LINGERIE-DES-FLANDRES ZONE COMMERCIALE LA GAIETE 500 69420 AMPUIS Meubles PANORAMA RN 86 1100 69480 ANSE Supermarché LEADER-PRICE AVENUE DE LA 1ERE ARMEE 480 69480 ANSE Meubles VANNERIE-CALADOISE LA LOGERE 350 69480 ANSE Vte-carav-autocarav-remorques SPORT-PLEIN-AIR RTE NATIONALE 3070 69480 ANSE Mag-non-spéc-non-alim CETRAM RTE NATIONALE 6 850 69480 ANSE Fleurs-jardinerie JARDILAND ZAC DE LA FONTAINE 5600 69480 ANSE Supermarché CARREFOUR-MARKET Zac Pré aux Moutons 1870 69210 ARBRESLE Bricolage-avec-jardinerie L'ARBRESL'LOISIRS 2 RUE EMILE FOURNIER 658 69210 ARBRESLE Habillement DEFI-MODE 243 route de Sain Bel 1400 69210 ARBRESLE Equipt-foyer-sauf-luminaires GIFI 243 route de Sain Bel 1400 69210 ARBRESLE Equipt-foyer-sauf-luminaires PLAISIR-D'OFFRIR 264,RTE DE SAIN-BEL 400 69210 ARBRESLE Bricolage-sans-jardinerie
    [Show full text]
  • Emerging Consumer Trend in China: “Guochao”
    Emerging Consumer Trend in China: “Guochao” Sol Ahn, CFA, Portfolio Manager March 2021 The rise of homegrown Chinese brands seems to be one of the strongest trends in China. “Guochao” has become a buzzword ever since China’s sportswear brand Li Ning’s successful debut at New York fashion week in 2018. Its “Wudao( 悟道)” collection is embedded with traditional Chinese culture, the four big Chinese characters 中國李寧, or China Li Ning in English, are believed to be a symbol of cultural confidence which has its roots in China’s rapid rise over the past few decades. Young Chinese consumers have grown up in a period of strong economic growth and thus are very proud of their country. Their parent’s generation preferred foreign brands and products over local brands with a general perception that foreign products were of better quality. Today, this perception has changed, and many young consumers feel no difference whether it is local or foreign and prefer whichever brand is trendier. Additionally, the escalating tensions between China and the US have accelerated domestic substitution as strengthening patriotism pushes more Chinese people to shop local brands. Lastly, booming e-commerce platforms in China play an essential role in the process. A digital world makes domestic brands’ penetration easier and faster. Key opinion leaders rely on Alibaba’s Taobao platform, Tiktok, and Kuaishou to promote and sell goods through live streaming. Domestic brands are adopting digital trends faster than their foreign competitors. We believe this “Guochao” trend is likely to last as long as domestic brands continue to adapt to consumer preferences and improve their products accordingly.
    [Show full text]
  • Asian Americans and the Cultural Economy of Fashion / Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu
    UIF #&"65*'6-HFOFSBUJPO UIF #&"65*'6-HFOFSBUJPO >PF>K>JBOF@>KP BOEUIF @RIQRO>IB@LKLJV PGC>PEFLK 5IVZ-JOI/HVZFO5V ARHBRKFSBOPFQVMOBPP AROE>J>KAILKALK ∫ 2011 Duke University Press All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper $ Designed by Heather Hensley Typeset in Scala by Keystone Typesetting, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data appear on the last printed page of this book. To my mother CONTENTS acknowledgments ix introduction Fashion, Free Trade, and the ‘‘Rise of the Asian Designer’’ 1 Part I 1. Crossing the Assembly Line: Skills, Knowledge, and the Borders of Fashion 31 2. All in the Family? Kin, Gifts, and the Networks of Fashion 63 Part II 3. The Cultural Economy of Asian Chic 99 4. ‘‘Material Mao’’: Fashioning Histories Out of Icons 133 5. Asia on My Mind: Transnational Intimacies and Cultural Genealogies 169 epilogue 203 notes 209 bibliography 239 index 253 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This book would not have been possible without the time, energy, and imagination of many friends, colleagues, and kind strangers. It is a pleasure to be able to acknowledge them here. I want to begin by thanking all the designers who allowed me to talk with them, hang around their shops, and learn from them. Knowing what I now know about the demands of their work, I am even more amazed that they could find so much time for me. Without their generosity, I would not have this story to tell. The seeds of this book were planted many years ago, but they really grew in conversation with the wonderful colleagues, at di√er- ent institutions, who have read, heard, or talked about these ideas with me, including Christine Balance, Luz Calvo, Derek Chang, Beth Coleman, Iftikhar Dadi, Maria Fernandez, Wen Jin, James Kim, Nhi Lieu, Christina Moon, Viranjini Munsinghe, Mimi Ngu- yen and Minh-Ha Pham (and their spot-on blog, Threadbared), Je√rey Santa Anna, Barry Shank, Julie Sze, Elda Tsou, K.
    [Show full text]
  • How Fashion Erased the Politics of Streetwear in 2017
    City University of New York (CUNY) CUNY Academic Works Capstones Craig Newmark Graduate School of Journalism Fall 12-15-2017 Mask On: How Fashion Erased the Politics of Streetwear in 2017 Frances Sola-Santiago How does access to this work benefit ou?y Let us know! More information about this work at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu/gj_etds/219 Discover additional works at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu This work is made publicly available by the City University of New York (CUNY). Contact: [email protected] Mask On: How Fashion Erased the Politics of Streetwear in 2017 By Frances Sola-Santiago Hip-hop culture dominated the fashion zeitgeist in 2017. From a Louis Vuitton and Supreme collaboration to Gucci’s support of Harlem designer Dapper Dan’s store reopening, the fashion industry welcomed Black culture into the highest echelons of high fashion. Rapper Cardi B became the darling of New York Fashion Week in September after being rejected by designers throughout most of her career. Marc Jacobs traded the runway for the street, staging a show that included bucket hats, oversized jackets, and loads of corduroy on a large number of models of color. But while the industry appeared to diversify by acknowledging the indomitable force of hip-hop culture, it truly didn’t. The politics of hip-hop and Black culture were left out of the conversation and the players behind-the-scenes remained a homogeneous mass of privileged white Westerners. Nearly every high fashion brand this year capitalized on streetwear— a style of clothing born out of hip-hop culture in marginalized neighborhoods of New York City and Los Angeles, and none recognized the historical, cultural, and political heritage that made streetwear a worldwide phenomenon, symbolizing power and cool.
    [Show full text]
  • Datecdec Situation Du Projet Projet Decis Cdec Recours
    '$7(&'(& 6,78$7,21 352-(7 '(&,6 5(&2856 '$7(&1(& '(&,6 &1(& '8352-(7 &'(& Extension de 3200 m² la surface de vente du magasin BRIE COMTE ROBERT – ZAC du LEROY MERLIN à BRIE COMTE ROBERT Tuboeuf -ZAC du Tuboeuf, rue de la Butte au Berger- selon la DXWRULVDWLRQ répartition suivante : PðH[WpULHXUV (par le libre accès de la clientèle dans la cour de matériaux agrandie de 323 m²) et PðSRXUOHPDJDVLQ (la surface couverte passera de 5800 m² à 6200 m², la surface extérieure sera de 2800 m² , la surface de show room de 195 m² est inchangée ) La surface de vente globale passera donc de 5995 à 9195 m² (SA LEROY MERLIN France) PROVINS , 15-17 avenue du Extension de 651 m² la surface de vente du magasin Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny INTERMARCHE (2499 m² après extension) DXWRULVDWLRQ (SA PROVINS DISTRIBUTION (PRODIS) ) PROVINS -3, avenue de la Voulzie Extension de de 300 m² la surface de vente (1000 m² (partie de l’ex local BUT) après extension) du magasin d’équipement de la personne à l’enseigne DEFI MODE DXWRULVDWLRQ (SA JMP EXPANSION) MAREUIL LES MEAUX, lieudit Création d’un ensemble de trois magasins d’une surface de la Hayette, 79, rue des Montaubans vente totale de 1880 m² comprenant un magasin à (ancien site JARDILAND) l’enseigne MAXI TOYS (jeux et jouets) de 800 m², un DXWRULVDWLRQ magasin à l’enseigne AUBERT (puériculture et layette) de 550 m² et un magasin à l’enseigne CASA (arts de la table et décoration) de 530 m² (Sarl PAGESTIM) '$7(&'(& 6,78$7,21 352-(7 '(&,6 5(&2856 '$7(&1(& '(&,6 &1(& '8352-(7 &'(& extension de 290 m² la surface de vente (1440 m² après DAMMARIE LES LYS extension) du magasin de meubles FLY –Rue A.
    [Show full text]