ALL MAN LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN SHOWED A NEW TAKE ON BRITISH STYLE, AS SEEN AT LEFT WITH ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, WHILE AT PITTI UOMO, OPTIMISM REIGNED. PAGE MW1

GRANOFF BECOMES CEO Vince Gets New Team Amidst Talk of IPO

By LISA LOCKWOOD

NEW YORK — Kellwood Co. is stepping on the Vince accelerator. The company said Wednesday that Jill Granoff, chief executive offi cer of Kellwood, will assume THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY the additional responsibility of ceo of Vince, over- seeing the strategic growth and direction of the Los WWD Angeles-based contemporary brand. In addition, Granoff named Doo-Ri Chung creative director of Vince. Chung will relocate to Vince’s Los Angeles de- sign studio and will be responsible for design, prod- uct development and creative branding initiatives. The moves were spurred by the resignations Tuesday of Vince cofounders Rea Laccone, ceo, and Christopher LaPolice, president. Granoff plans to name a new president in the near future. Granoff said one of the reasons she was hired by Sun Capital Partners to be the ceo of Kellwood “was to accelerate the growth of Vince and unleash its po- tential as a global lifestyle brand.” There has been speculation Sun may do an initial public offering for Vince, but Granoff declined to comment. Kellwood is reportedly working with Goldman Sachs as it ex- plores an IPO or sale of Vince, although it couldn’t be learned if the investment bank has been offi cially hired to put together an offering. If there were an IPO, fi nancial sources believe it would be a partial spin off of Vince, which would leave Kellwood holding a signifi cant stake in that business, as well as its other, less profi table businesses, such as COLLECTIONS Rebecca Taylor, Sag Harbor and My Michelle. “I’ve been involved in overseeing [Vince] since Day One,” said Granoff, who joined Kellwood PRE-FALL last May after having been ceo of Kenneth Cole 2013 Productions Inc. Vince’s retail, licensing and mar- keting operations have reported to her. She will con- tinue to be based in New York and will travel back and forth to Los Angeles. SEE PAGE 8 Uptown Serge Azria’s Big Deal

By EVAN CLARK

The very busy Serge Azria — the creative force be- hind Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott — has Girls been even busier lately as a dealmaker. On Tuesday evening, Stella McCartney brought Azria has sold a 60 percent stake in the trio’s cor- her downtown party uptown — to Park Avenue’s porate parent, Dutch LLC, to private equity fi rm TA Associates. A source close to the transaction said it Americas Society Art Gallery to be exact. She valued the company at over $500 million. celebrated the New York woman with classic Azria has been actively developing the business- es, moving them into new product categories and ex- touches of the English girl: men’s wear-inspired panding their distribution. And investors have been camel toppers over graphic black-and-white hot to get their hands on names with growth stripes, lots of rich jacquards and an eveningwear ahead, especially in the potentially lucrative areas of retail and accessories. lineup that, McCartney said, “shouldn’t wear you, In an interview late Wednesday, after the deal but capture you.” Here, two columns in velvet and was fi rst reported on WWD.com, Azria said he didn’t matte silk. For more on McCartney, see wwd.com/ need to sell, but wanted to position the company for continued growth. “I need to plan long term in ad- runway. For more pre-fall, see pages 4 to 6. vance, and to go public and [take] bigger steps, I like to have a big partner with me,” he said. More deals could be in the offi ng. “ Yo u never know, maybe we’ll have other acquisi- tions as well,” Azria hinted. Dutch’s revenues and profits have grown by more than 30 percent in each of the last fi ve years. All together, the three brands are sold in over 2,000 stores across 75 countries, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Printemps. Joie and Equipment also both sell direct- ly to the consumer via the Web and six stores in New York, Los Angeles and Newport Beach, Calif. “With the recent addition of e-commerce and PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013 WWD.COM H&M Unveils Sites for New Concept THE BRIEFING BOX are designed to provide endless which stands for Collection of By JOELLE DIDERICH styling choices. The aim is to de- Style. In 2010, it bought Fabric IN TODAY’S WWD sign lasting treasures Scandinavien AB, the company — Bucking the prevail- within a wide price range.” behind hip label Cheap ing economic gloom, Hennes & The creative department for Monday and contemporary fash- Mauritz AB is going full steam & Other Stories is based largely ion chains Weekday and Monki. ahead with its brand diversifi- in Paris, and is led by head of Neil Saunders, managing di- The inspiration for cation, with the opening in the design Anna Teurnell, although rector of U.K.-based retail con- Etro’s men’s collection. spring of the first physical and a second, smaller team is based sultancy Conlumino, said that online stores for its new brand, & in Stockholm. while H&M continues to lag be- Other Stories. Elke Kieft, p.r. manager for & hind its rival Inditex in terms of The Swedish high-street re- Other Stories, said there would be subbrands, the launch of & Other tailer plans to open brick-and- four different product universes Stories will help it reach a wider mortar stores in seven cities — within the brand, corresponding potential audience. Barcelona, Berlin, Copenhagen, to different styles. The brand’s “Strategically, they have taken London, , Paris and handwritten logo will be used a step up and they’re becoming Stockholm — to mark its first col- on store signs and tags, much more like Inditex in terms lections under the new banner. sometimes in combination with of having a stable of brands which Averaging 7,500 square feet other words, separated by a thin they can roll out across different in size, the stores will sit in high- black line — for example, “Rue locations for growth,” he said. profile locations such as Regent Saint-Honoré & Other Stories.” “That’s important for them, Street in London, Rue Saint- “ Yo u will be seeing it a lot. It because relying on the core H&M Honoré in Paris and Corso Vittorio could be a price tag on the gar- brand for growth was never an Emanuele in Milan to give the ment. It will look exactly the option, because it’s becoming brand maximum visibility. same with the line through the much more saturated and also Kellwood Co. said Wednesday that chief executive officer In addition, an e-commerce site, middle, and it could be ‘Leather there’s a danger it becomes a lit- Jill Granoff will also assume the role of ceo of Vince, which stories.com, will launch in Belgium, & Other Stories’ or ‘Cashmere & tle bit ubiquitous as well, and it gets a new creative director in Doo-Ri Chung. PAGE 1 Denmark, Finland, France, Other Stories.’ We can continu- can’t serve all constituents of the Germany, , the Netherlands, ously play with that name, and fashion market,” he added. Serge Azria — the creative force behind Joie, Equipment Spain, Sweden and the U.K. that is the idea behind it, be- Saunders noted that & Other and Current/Elliott — has sold a 60 percent stake in the The brand will sell women’s cause we want to let people know Stories was launching in loca- PAGE 1 ready-to-wear, , bags, acces- what we are about,” Kieft said. tions with significant footfall, trio’s corporate parent, Dutch LLC, to TA Associates. sories and beauty products in- The brand is plotting a strong strong fashion credentials and cluding skin care, body care and presence on social media, with high visibility. Further coverage of the WWD Apparel & Retail CEO a color cosmetics line developed channels on Facebook, Twitter, “Although the economies over- Summit, including presentations by Value Retail’s Scott in collaboration with makeup YouTube and Tumblr in addition all are sluggish, the locations Malkin and Avery Dennison’s R. Shawn Neville. PAGE 7 artist Lisa Butler. to its own site. they’re opening in are high-growth Prices will begin where H&M “Obviously, on the Web site, locations, so actually, they should The Supreme Court on Wednesday handed down a stops, although the retailer has you have more possibilities to re- be relatively insulated from the unanimous decision in favor of Nike Inc. in a trademark said & Other Stories will feature ally tell a story with images, but general downturn,” he said. dispute with Already LLC over a design. PAGE 10 a wider spread than its high-end there will be lots of images in the “By choosing these locations, concept COS. stores as well to give inspiration. they are giving themselves a lot Delta Galil Industries Ltd. has signed a global licensing Prices will start at 7 euros, or We don’t want to dictate anything. of exposure. That said, of course, agreement with Columbia Co. to produce a $9 at current exchange, for cer- We’re really looking for a custom- they’re much more expensive lo- collection of for men and women. PAGE 10 tain cosmetics, jewelry and foot- er that has their own style already cations, so they’re going to have wear items, and 15 euros, or $20, and who can pick something that to make sure that the volume The Missoni company said Wednesday that its men’s wear for ready-to-wear. The most ex- fits her style,” Kieft said. side of the business really stacks show will still take place on Sunday in Milan. PAGE 11 pensive products will cost about She declined to say which up. It’s very important therefore 195 euros, or $255, for shoes or store would be the first to open that the product is desirable and aimed to highlight “the crisp, graphic feel of and 245 euros, or $320, and when, merely indicating that seen as being ‘must-have,’ so it the spring collection in bold California colors” for his spring for a leather , for example. online sales would follow after can justify the price point and PAGE 11 H&M said the lines are “di- the launch of physical stores. also sell through in enough vol- ad campaign. verse, ranging from masculine H&M began adding subbrands ume to make the business work,” tailoring to feminine chic and in 2007 with the launch of COS, he concluded. Despite the patchy economic environment, a feel-good energy pulsed through the Uomo trade fair, reflecting an optimistic outlook from vendors for 2013. PAGE MW1

Badgley Mischka Set to Open First NYC Unit , now owned by PPR, is prepping for its first collection under men’s creative director Brendan Mullane. PAGE MW2 NEW YORK — Just a year shy housed in, the Badgley Mischka of its 25th anniversary, Badgley A spring New York store will play off the The timing of London’s second edition of men’s runway shows Mischka already has reason to cel- look from townhouse’s “mansionette” ambi- sparked some controversy but also created fans. PAGE MW4 ebrate — the company will open Badgley ance to try to make shoppers feel its first store in Manhattan this Mischka. as though they are stepping into Italia Independent’s Lapo Elkann is hoping to develop the spring on the Upper East Side. a luxe private home. brand globally and is considering either a public offering or After years of considering a Badgley and Mischka said they selling a stake to a “foreign group or individual.” PAGE MW8 flagship and 12 months of active- are confident the new location ly looking for one, Mark Badgley will enhance sales of their label and James Mischka expect to un- in New York stores. The designers ON WWD.COM Badgley Mischka New York expect their signature collection at 24 East 64th Street in April. and bridal offerings to be best- PREPPING FOR MILAN: From the urban streets to the The three-floor, 3,000-square-foot sellers. They are also developing great outdoors, Milan’s men’s designers were inspired by townhouse was most recently a daywear collection that will be a myriad of locations for fall. For more, see WWD.com/ home to a Pucci store. sold exclusively at the new store, menswear-news. The uptown brownstone, which as well as in its Beverly Hills and Mischka described as “a charm- Palm Beach, Fla., boutiques. ing jewel box of a space,” will be Uptown, , Valentino, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Badgley Mischka’s third store in Jimmy Choo, Fred Leighton and WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. the U.S. The company also has Graff will be among Badgley COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. nine stores in China and plans to Mischka’s neighbors. Badgley VOLUME 205, NO. 7. THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two have 30 by the end of this year. said, “We have been hunting additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Patrick Gerard Carmody, a for the perfect New York home Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, New York-based firm known for for quite some time now,” while Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, its high-end residential projects, Mischka continued, “We really and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver will renovate the space so that feel that we’ve found the perfect Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North there will be three areas of focus. location for us.” Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. A bridal salon will be located in The neighborhood has gotten Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or the back adjacent to a garden. a lift in the past six months, due inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine Badgley Mischka ready-to-wear, to the 19 businesses that bowed is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. as well as the more affordable on Madison Avenue. And con- You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt Mark & James collection, will be struction is under way for Canali, of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request showcased on the main floor with Kate Spade, a Lanvin men’s and for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at jewelry, handbags, , sun- Marie-Hélène de Taillac stores. www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that and other accessories. A MITRA In addition, Anya Hindmarch and we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at private VIP area will be set up on Baccarat are building flagships on P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED the floor to ensure privacy. ROBERT Madison, and Oscar de la Renta is ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Just as the designers’ Beverly expanding his boutique there. UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Hills boutique took design cues DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A from the historic building it is PHOTO BY AND BOBBI QUEEN SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Photo : G. Defaix Inspired by the artwork of Daniele Buetti, with his kind authorization

12-14 February 2013 Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France - premierevision.com Spring Summer 14 / The World’s Premier Fabric Show™

NEW YORK _ SÃO PAULO _ PARIS _ _ SHANGHAI 4 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013

Pre-Fall 2013 Pucci Rochas Derek Lam: “I like to push myself to think about things that aren’t so pretty and classical,” said Derek Lam of his pre-fall collection, in which he worked motifs that are both pretty and classic — Chantilly lace and argyle, for example — with a casual edge. He cut them up and sewed them back together in paneled shells and formfitting with sleek yet winding seams. A sweatshirt came in bonded lace, offering a relaxed femininity to counter the urban slick of leather and knife-pleat .

Pucci: Peter Dundas cast his Pucci collection through a Deco lens, influenced by Twenties furnishings and Mia Farrow during her “Frank Sinatra years, when she wore all these perverse little dresses.” The references were obvious in the short hemlines of straight shifts. In some ways, the Twenties-by-way-of-Sixties point of view led to a more modest turn for Dundas, particularly in terms of the daywear, which included a rounded black-and-white and tuxedo styles. He turned up the heat with filmy silk dresses and devoré velvet that skimmed the body and revealed a bit of what was beneath the sheer chiffon.

Rochas: Rochas is known for its exclusive fabrics and designer Marco Zanini’s two key choices this season were a decadent gold-and-brown brocade and a richly hued puckered floral. Cut into voluminous topcoats, - or -length tunics and cropped pants with a bit of kick at the bottom, the styles mostly leaned retro, even gamine at times with tiny collars and sleeves. Zanini wisely balanced them out with everyday items like a playful collegiate and a nubby wool T-shirt.

Max Mara: Ian Griffiths, head designer of , focused on house classics with a nod to David Bowie in the Seventies. Inspired by Bowie’s upcoming exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, Griffiths’ most costumey looks included flamboyant sleeved and slouchy , at times paired with fur and wide-brim . But his real focus was on chic camel hair outerwear, relaxed , tunics over pants and easy long dresses, all worked with unexpected textured panels of Persian lamb and baby alpaca.

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: Rather than making a complete departure from Alberta Ferretti’s aesthetic, new creative director Natalie Ratabesi set out to give the Philosophy brand a younger, cooler feel. The outcome was a pretty lineup of Twenties-inspired cocktail dresses worn under great . Looks were styled from a night out into the next morning, thus there were delicate beaded drop- dresses and flirty pleated skirts, at times with uneven hemlines; chic outerwear; cozy layered knits, and long dresses with a ruffled flounce.

Yigal Azrouël: Like much of the fashion world these days, Yigal Azrouël is obsessed with Instagram. His latest collection came together with images he snapped of pythons and New York . Silhouettes like a and a , for example, were streamlined and worked in felted wool and trimmed with leather or coyote fur, while elements of softness came in the form of draped silk tops. As for the python, a print was cleverly embossed onto a jacquard fabric for a luxe biker jacket and knit to form the pattern on a fur vest.

Lisa Perry: Arrows, like those used on street signs,

were a key motif for Lisa Perry. They came ccone A

knitted and appliquéd on tops and dresses and nn i A

provided the right touch of vintage and whimsy. s Perry also continued to evolve her Sixties A

proclivities with a new waisted version of her thom D signature circle shift; a cool diagonal color block n on a gray dress, and several fun knits, including a long black top — or minidress — with the word “Love” spelled out in hot pink. ericksen A kyle Cushnie et Ochs: Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs are known for their sexy dresses with cutouts

and leather details, so when Ochs said that chinsee, “fetish bondage” was their pre-fall inspiration,

it came as no surprise. Harness straps and george

sheer mesh insets were key details, but then by the designers switched gears and offered some

softer, feminine pieces, yet still with an edge. photos

w10a004a(5);3.indd 1 1/9/13 7:42 PM 01092013194450 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Rochas Max Mara Philosophy di Yigal Azrouël Alberta Ferretti

For more pre-Fall coverage, see WWD.com/ Lisa Perry runway. Cushnie et Ochs

w10a004a(5);3.indd 2 1/9/13 7:43 PM 01092013194451 6 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013 WWD.COM

Acne Barbara Sportmax Rebecca Bui Minkoff

FOR MORE PRE-FALL COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway. Pre-Fall 2013

Acne: After seeing a recent matte materials and even the exhibition of artist August prints appeared textured in a Tibi Cédric Strindberg’s self-portraits big scribble pattern. Charlier National in Stockholm, Acne creative director Jonny Johansson Tibi: For creative director Amy amped up the volume for pre- Smilovic, the hustle and bustle fall. The designer reworked of urban life was an ideal wardrobe classics like a trouser platform for her latest collection. , parka and shearling The NYC Transit map was the in extreme proportions. The basis for the graphic prints and sizing of these pieces allowed paneled seams, not to mention for heavy layering, which the black-and-white palette seems like a good idea for an with pops of primaries. Shapes icy Nordic outing. were boxy on top and often felt sporty, such as the fun Neoprene Barbara Bui: For her graphic sweatshirt and perforated mix-and-match collection, leather T-shirt, while bottoms Barbara Bui said she wanted came on the slimmer side. to “play with volume and construction.” Mostly done Cédric Charlier: Inspired by in black with some flashes of Flemish paintings, Cédric yellow, the clothes had a clean Charlier’s collection was “all rock ’n’ roll vibe with biker about creating an illusion.” elements throughout. Texture Obsessed with the body, he was key, with glazed and focused on exposed seams on leather-bonded chunky knits, sexy frocks and dresses with and ponyskin dragon motifs multiple layers and visible printed on leather sweatshirts. linings in a mix of fabrics. For day, trousers came either Rebecca Minkoff: Looking to printed or in jacquard, while Amelia Earhart, Rebecca a range of standout knits Minkoff ’s collection resulted looked anything but basic. in cool riffs on leather aviator and cadet skirts that Costume National: Biker, paired well with airy silk blouses military and tuxedo motifs and feminine printed dresses. were the key elements here. Designer Sportmax: Grazia Malagoli extended lapels on jackets focused on contrasting and added zipper details and silhouettes — oversize, leather touches to asymmetric cocoon-shaped outerwear dresses that stayed close to over skinny pants and fitted his signature aesthetic. The dresses — and lots of texture. lineup’s outerwear, including The designer also played with a white double-faced MAITRE ERICKSEN AND DOMINIQUE KYLE a mix of fabrics: the back of a cashmere coat and a beaver fur coat was leather, hooded cobalt blue jacket,

shiny tweeds were coated in was also noteworthy. PHOTOS BY WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013 7 WWD.COM SCOTT MALKIN top 15 shopping centers in R. SHAWN NEVILLE Germany’s Gerry Weber went Scott Malkin iS not a real the world in terms of sales onE oF tHE nation’s leading chainwide with RFiD about two estate developer. He’s also not productivity. “Seventeen purveyors of radio frequency years ago. a retailer or a manufacturer. years of double-digit growth, identification technology, or as with bar codes, introduced instead, the chairman of Value 13 percent like-for-like RFiD, thinks it’s just getting com- in the mid-20th century, accep- Retail plc considers himself to growth in 2012,” he said, “but fortable in its natural home — the tance has been slow. neville told be in the tourism business. we’re not a shopping center apparel specialty store. WWD that of more than 100 bil- “Value Retail is in the company. We are not in the R. Shawn neville, president lion units of apparel produced experience business,” he business of collecting rents, of avery Dennison’s retail brand- globally every year — 40 billion of said during his presentation we’re in the business of driv- ing and information solutions them for the U.S. and European Monday afternoon. ing experiences through dis- unit, noted that RFiD technology Union — RFiD is only being ap- Malkin said the company, tinctive environments.” has been around for more than plied to between 1 billion and which operates luxury out- Bicester Village outside 40 years but is just now begin- 1.5 billion. “the fastest applica- let “villages” in nine Western london produced sales per ning to become established in tion of RFiD right now is in the European cities, is “in the square foot of over $3,000 last specialty stores after early adop- apparel industry,” neville said, long-haul tourism business. year, he said, and two out of tion by large discounters and, “and it’s still less than 1 percent the standards are changing; three visitors from china to more recently, by department of global production. But a lot of they’re moving quickly. What the U.k. last year traveled to stores such as Macy’s inc., J.c. people have dipped their toe in was good enough last year the center. Eighty percent of Penney co. inc. and, in the U.k., the water the last few years.” is not good enough this year visitors overall were tourists, Marks & . —ARNoLdJ.KARR and certainly won’t be good he added, and 40 percent were While RFiD has innate advan- enough next year.” from outside the European tages over bar-code technology to make sure his company traub said that retailing Union. From 2008 to 2012, non- for high-volume users, such as its endures, Malkin said he con- and shopping centers were EU attendance at its centers ability to scan nearly 200 items a siders Value Retail’s proper- becoming boring, an issue that rose from 8 percent to 26 per- second with 99 percent accuracy, ties as similar to a “five-star has been exacerbated by the cent, he said. its relatively high cost makes it a destination hotel. Yo u journey internet. “the world has al- to further grow, Value more comfortable fit for higher- to get there, and you have an ready polarized between effi- Retail is now preparing to margin products and the mer- expectation of what you’ll get ciency, which is defined by the enter the chinese market and chants who sell them, he said. when you get there.” He said internet, and the experience,” has formed a company called “it’s still relatively expensive, that, on the surface, most Malkin said. Value Retail china. its first but we believe there’s a value to luxury resorts are the same, He pointed to 2 Rodeo center is currently under con- it,” neville said. “it will never but some manage to create Drive, the luxury retail com- struction in Suzhou outside pay for itself.” “energy and pizzazz” that is plex in Beverly Hills that was Shanghai and is scheduled to But it offers of use that “not the standardized expe- his final project before form- open next year with additional makes it a natural fit for both rience.” that is what Value ing Value Retail. He said 2 store associates and con- Retail strives to do for custom- Rodeo Drive provides a “flat” 2013 WWD CEO SUMMIT sumers in an increas- ers as well as the brands that experience despite its stellar ingly digital world, he call its centers home, brands brand lineup. leadership asserted. Burberry’s flag- that range from alexander to keep that from happen- ship on Regent Street in McQueen and DknY to tory ing, Value Retail’s villages london, which opened in Burch and Paul Smith. seek to offer the “marriage centers to be built in Beijing, September, is equipped with an “the difference in a great of a high-quality experience Hong kong and other cities RFiD system that activates vid- experience is in the execution with the energy of a special after that. eos showing the craftsmanship and the inspiration you pro- moment — a resort destina- “Why are we in china,” built into individual products vide the user,” he said. “if re- tion combined with elements he asked. “Marvin would say being considered by shoppers. tail is detail, experiential retail of Studio 54. Where can you china is the future and you is 10 times that. and with the find that today? a department can’t be part of the future with- internet eating into store-based store, a great flagship on Fifth out participating. it’s, after and physical experiences, we’re avenue and in villages that we the internet, the second big CRAIg VOSbuRg ANd CHERyL guERIN all moving toward focused, clus- create and operate.” change we are living through conSUMERS WitH historically drag of the fiscal cliff debate.” tered, targeted and intensely Malkin said the company now: the shift of power and low levels of debt could provide For holiday, U.S. retail sales delivered ‘experiences.’” measures the success of its focus and energy to the East. stores with “not great, not awful” growth slowed to 3.6 percent, Malkin cited the late Marvin philosophy by identifying the and the brands pushed us to retail sales growth of between 4 and while luxury retailing fell to 1.4 traub as one of his mentors “world-class consumers” that go. Because there’s a tipping 5.5 percent in 2013, similar to the 4.5 percent and specialty apparel and the king of delivering mem- flock to its centers and their opin- point that is arriving right now percent rate registered in 2012. sales just missed the break-even orable experi- ion of the brands where you can’t dump out the that was the estimate of point with a 0.1 percent sales de- ences. calling For video on-demand offered there. back door in china anymore.” craig Vosburg, group executive cline. Even the hot e-commerce traub the coverage, see although pric- additionally, “the chinese con- of U.S. market development at channel decelerated to a growth “Wayne Gretzky es are significant- sumer is well-informed, sophis- Mastercard Worldwide, dur- rate of 10.6 percent, accord- of the retailing WWD.com/ ly below tradition- ticated and ever more demand- ing a presentation with cheryl ing to Mastercard data. the e- industry,” he summitsondemand. al retail, Value ing, and the chinese market is Guerin, the company’s senior commerce channel’s 6.9 percent noted Gretzky, Retail ensures fundamentally about authen- vice president and group head of growth rate in november broke the former nHl that it “conserves ticity. the only people buying U.S. marketing, on “connecting a streak of 20 consecutive months player nicknamed “the Great and respects the full-price po- counterfeits in Hong kong and consumers and Retailers to Drive with year-over-year growth of at one,” said he was “good at ice sitioning” of the brands within Shanghai are Westerners.” Sales Growth.” least 14 percent. hockey because he went where its center by retaining “the He said, “the moment is citing Mastercard data across Friction among legislators the puck was going, not where quality and core of the brand. now in terms of market de- all payment forms, Vosburg said might linger into 2013, but, as with it had been.” traub applied the “a woman who spends mand and the brand require- U.S. sales growth last year came budget battles prior to the “in- same skills to retail. $5,000 on an item that might ments, the behavior of the in at 4.5 percent, with increases tensely personal” fiscal cliff con- as a department store re- have been $10,000 is not a consumer and the expectation in luxury retail and specialty ap- frontation, would be more likely to tailer, “that meant he had to normal consumer,” he added. of the chinese consumer for a parel retailing at the same level. affect consumer confidence than orchestrate something spe- the centers attract “fantastic, technology transfer of this in- E-commerce grew at a 14.8 per- purchasing, Vosburg noted. cial, create that magic without high-maintenance shoppers” novative, sophisticated retail cent rate. He characterized the aver- absolute control. He had the and “terrific high-maintenance platform.” But, he cautioned Holiday, defined as the 56 days age consumer as being “in pretty ability to identify brands, to brands,” requiring Value Retail that there is a “simple guide- prior to christmas, saw increases good shape. Personal debt lev- select product to develop an in turn to “provide high-main- line for china: there are no dissipate as the nation weathered els are as low as they’ve been in environment and create an tenance service.” shortcuts and to succeed you what Vosburg termed “the one- a decade, so there is spending experience. and our business the result is that Value will need to exceed what you two punch we saw in november power.” Still, as in 2012, growth model is fundamentally built Retail’s four most estab- do in the West.” with Hurricane Sandy and in will be “a challenge.” on that,” Malkin said. lished locations rank in the  —JEANE.PALMIERI December with the increasing  —A.J.K.

As part of the WWD Apparel & Retail CEO Summit, Andrew Allen and Georg Petschnigg of FiftyThree Inc. showcased their Paper by Fifty Three app to draw highlights of the event — some of which are seen below. All the sketches will be compiled into a commemorative book from Moleskine that will be sent to summit attendees.

The Summit kicks off. Impressions of Karl. Marc’s fur aspirations. Mickey’s words of wisdom.

w10a007a.indd 7 1/9/13 7:29 PM 01092013193102 8 WWD thursday, january 10 , 2013 WWD.COM Kellwood’s Granoff Adds Vince CEO Role 1

{Continued from page one} A Jill Granoff An image from She reiterated LaPolice’s remark mer A Aquino

/C the Vince

that he and Laccone had only wanted A spring ad to stay five years after selling Vince to John campaign.

Kellwood in 2006, and ended up staying Letter seven years. “They stayed and worked hoto by rry p A

on the transition. This has been care- L fully orchestrated,” said Granoff. LaPolice and Laccone no longer had hoto by an ownership stake in Vince, which p they founded in 2002, and plan to leave Feb. 1. LaPolice ran sales and market- ing, and Laccone was responsible for design, merchandising and production. Granoff believes Chung has the right design sensibility to take the Vince business forward. “She’s very well known for her design and techni- cal aesthetic. She has a modern design aesthetic and a real understanding of our customer,” said Granoff. She said Chung will work with the current team of Vince designers, patternmakers and production executives at the Los Angeles design studio. Doo-Ri Chung Earlier, Chung served as founder and creative director of her namesake label, Doo.Ri. She left Tharanco Group, because of its loyal customer following Kellwood’s third-quarter earnings which owns her label, last June. and its modern design sensibility,” said before interest, depreciation, taxes, A Korean-American, Chung Chung, who was unavailable for further amortization and restructuring in- launched her signature collection in comment. Karen Harvey handled the creased 13.8 percent to $19.8 million 2003 after graduating from Parsons search for the creative director at Vince. from $17.4 million a year earlier. Sales School of Design and working for Over the course of the past eight for the three months rose 3.6 percent to Geoffrey Beene for five years. She months, Granoff has hired several ex- $215.5 million from $208 million. Vince has won numerous awards for her de- ecutives to strengthen the manage- is considered Kellwood’s financial en- sign and technical excellence. Known ment ranks. At Vince, Beth Cohn was gine. The brand is estimated to have for her draping, particularly of named senior vice president of re- about $60 million in EBITDA on sales fabric, detailed knitwear and art-in- tail; Jill Steinberg was tapped senior of $225 million to $250 million. spired prints, Chung was recognized as vice president of women’s wholesale; According to Granoff, top priorities Parsons Designer of the Ye a r in 1995, Marc Carver became vice president of will be to continue to expand and ele- and was the winner of both the CFDA men’s wholesale, and Jennifer Pohland vate the product assortment; maximize Swarovski Perry Ellis Award and Vogue joined as vice president of finance. the business with key retail partners, Fashion Fund Award in 2006. In 2011, Rebecca Damavandi was named group and accelerate the retail and e-com- Chung dressed First Lady Michelle president of global business develop- merce growth. The company is current- Obama for a White House state dinner ment at Kellwood, and Lisa Klinger ly relaunching the Vince Web site and with President Lee Myung-bak of South was appointed chief financial officer believes it can double the freestand- Korea, with a vivid plum-colored, one- for Kellwood and Vince. Klinger has ing store count in the next three years. shouldered jersey , adapted from had recent experience with a retail There are presently 19 full-price bou- a runway look, and accented with a tur- IPO, having previously been executive tiques and three outlet stores. Vince quoise beaded . Last year, she was vice president and cfo of The Fresh also plans to develop its licensing and also the featured designer for Macy’s Market Inc., where she earned high international business, will open more Impulse department. marks for her handling of the firm’s shops-in-shop in the U.K. and Canada “I’ve long admired the [Vince] brand 2010 stock market listing. and roll out shops in Asia.

reason for their departure. Azria relaunched Equipment TA Takes Majority Stake in Azria’s Dutch in 2010, breathing new life into the brand founded by Christian {Continued from page one} Azria will remain chief ex- footprint to as many as 15 doors everywhere, absolutely not.” Restoin. The brand has expand- company-owned retail bou- ecutive officer of the company in the near future. Stylists Emily Current and ed from silk into pajama tiques…the Dutch brands are well and said that the private eq- “They will open strategically Meritt Elliott founded Current/ sets, shirt dresses, silk T-shirts, positioned to become leading life- uity firm’s support would help in different places,” Azria said Elliott with Azria in 2008. The cashmere and the men’s market. style brands in the contemporary Dutch “complete the evolution recently. “We will stay that way, brand’s feature faded wash- Equipment opened its first store segment,” said James Hart, prin- of our portfolio into true life- testing and studying to see how es and boyfriend styles and are a in New York’s SoHo last month. cipal at TA. “We are looking to style brands for savvy, fashion- it works and doesn’t work. We favorite of the Hollywood set. Investment bank Peter support the growth of the Dutch minded consumers throughout spend some time before going The two stylists said last J. Solomon Co. advised TA brand portfolio and working with the world.” forward. The goal is not to be a month they were leaving their Associates on the deal and Sage the longtime management team The deal adds to the fashion huge retailer and open stores namesake brand, offering no Group advised Dutch LLC. and distribution partners to con- credentials of TA, which in April tinue increasing the brands’ foot- bought a 30 percent stake in prints, collections and overall Zadig & Voltaire. TA was found- Inside Joie.

profile in the marketplace.” ed in 1968 and has raised $18 Lowndes

billion and invested in 425 firms Guy Serge Azria across a range of industries. “The new contemporary luxury segment has become an photo by incredibly important revenue driver for both premium ap- parel companies and for retail- ers focused on this space,” said Jennifer Mulloy, a managing di- rector at TA. “The contemporary niche represents an attractive opportunity for investment in the current economic environ- ment providing a great balance of design, quality and price.” TA’s Hart and Mulloy will both join Dutch’s board. Joie is known for its silk tops, but also sells shoes, hand- bags, outerwear and other cat- egories. Founded in 2001, the brand has four stores and plans to keep expanding, growing its

w10a008a.indd 8 1/9/13 7:38 PM 01092013193948 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA MEN’S WEAR SUMMIT MARCH 20, 2013 • NYC

FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA MEN’S WEAR SUMMIT MARCH 20, 2013 • NYC

REDEFINING THE MODERN MAN

DOUG EWERT THE MEN’S ERIC JENNINGS DIEGO SCOTTI SCOTT SCHUMAN DURAND GUION WEARHOUSE INC. SAKS FIFTH AVENUE J.CREW THE SARTORIALIST MACY’S

WWD.COM/MENSSUMMIT TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.5926 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4425 REDEFINING5907_summits2013_ffm_menswear_HAD_v7.indd 1 1/9/13 4:23 PM THE MODERN MAN

DOUG EWERT THE MEN’S ERIC JENNINGS DIEGO SCOTTI SCOTT SCHUMAN DURAND GUION WEARHOUSE INC. SAKS FIFTH AVENUE J.CREW THE SARTORIALIST MACY’S

WWD.COM/MENSSUMMIT TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.5926 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4425

5907_summits2013_ffm_menswear_HAD_v7.indd 1 1/9/13 4:23 PM 2.5x7 (left)

10 WWD thursday, january 10, 2013

Ann Inc. Joins Industry Green Group obituary ANN INC. HAS JOINED the Sustainable their supply chain against competitors Apparel Coalition. and industry benchmarks. The New York-based specialty retailer, “Our focus on energy and water using Pronovias’ Manuel Mota, 46 owners of the Ann Taylor and Loft brands, the SAC’s Higg Index will allow us to set is the first women’s specialty retailer to benchmarks and improvement goals while incredible; his passion for the brand, for sign up and joins a roster that includes Gap working collaboratively with our suppliers By BARBARA BARKER detail and design will always be remem- Inc., H&M, Inditex, J.C. Penney Co. Inc., to demonstrate real improvements in per- bered. I waited every year for him to Kohl’s Corp., L.L. Bean, Marks & Spencer, formance on the ground,” said Jeannette MADRID — Manuel Mota, creative pull out the stops.” Harlow said her shop Nordstrom Inc., Target Corp., Wal-Mart Ferran Astorga, Ann Inc.’s vice president of director and resident designer of plans a tribute window later this month Stores Inc. and numerous brands in the corporate social responsibility. “As a com- Pronovias for 23 years, died Wednesday “to get the word out as to how important outdoor and active apparel sectors. The pany, we are committed to sustainability — at age 46. The cause of death has not yet he was. People have to know.” organization’s membership, dedicated to it is reflected in our values and our clients’ been confirmed. “We are devastated by the news, greater supply chain sustainability, also in- expectations of us.” In a brief statement issued from what a loss,” said Jennifer Martin, co- cludes various brands, wholesalers, mills Ann Inc., previously known as the Barcelona-based bridal company, owner with her mother Karen Jones of and other suppliers and trade groups and AnnTaylor Stores Corp., has been an president Alberto Palatchi said, “The Gowns by Design, a one-store retailer numbers about 70. early adopter of many CSR practices. It Pronovias family has lost one of its in Mechanicsburg, Pa. “His talent and Ann shared the decision with mem- instituted third-party monitoring of sup- best loved members. We are left with vision were unparalleled and some- bers of its global supply chain during pliers in 2002, an extensive green initia- the memory of so many collections, so how he could put classic elegance and an annual company conference in Hong tive in 2007 and, to guide its suppliers, AT many catwalk shows, tradition together with Kong. Included in the presentation were Connect in 2008. Information on its CSR so much effort and tal- fashion-forward fresh- the Higg Index, adopted by SAC to help activities is available at the responsibly- ent. Manuel was a great ness all in one dress. I companies, including nonmembers, ann.com Web site, launched in 2010. partner, a great artist know very few design- gauge the sustainability of products in  —ARNOLDJ.KARR and above all, a great ers who do that. He person. We will never was unique.” forget him.” Jones added, “Design Mota was known for Zack Seckler photo by is what it’s all about. Delta Galil, Columbia in Exclusive Deal his prolific output — Manuel was a key part of DELTA GALIL Industries Ltd. has Retailer Winter Market trade show in three collections yearly the Pronovias package.” signed a global licensing agreement with Salt Lake City, which runs Jan. 23 to 26. including the Pronovias Spanish model Columbia Sportswear Co. to produce a Delta Galil’s portfolio includes sev- core line, a high-end and personal friend collection of socks for men and women eral other sock licenses: lifestyle socks grouping for edgier Eugenia Silva said, bearing the Columbia name. by Converse, sports socks by Wilson and brides and “Fiesta,” a “We worked and trav- In the exclusive deal, Delta Galil will fashion socks by Kenneth Cole New York. vast range of cocktail eled a lot together — develop, manufacture and distribute a Suggested retail will be $22 to $25 for and mother-of-the bride and he designed my line of outdoor lifestyle socks and high- high-tech styles of merino wool and Dri- dresses. sister’s wedding gown. tech styles designed for a variety of ac- release wool blends. A lifestyle group “Manuel Mota was a He was one of the best tivities, including hiking, trail running, aimed at department stores in wool and true gentleman, loved bridal designers in the skiing, snowboarding and hunting. cotton blends will retail for three pairs by everybody who had world. It’s very sad Distribution will be aimed at for $18, and two pairs for $20. an opportunity to spend news, the potential has Columbia stores as well as department A wholesale sales projection was not time with him,” said Manuel disappeared. I loved and sporting goods stores, and specialty available, but the combined men’s and Mara Urshel, co-owner Mota him very much.” retailers worldwide. women’s lines could generate more than of Kleinfeld New York. Over the years, Mota The collection will be unveiled at $15 million the first full year, according to “He was a creative visionary who will be dressed a bevy of local celebrities and in- the Columbia booth during the Outdoor estimates. —KARyNMONget missed by brides all over the world.” ternational brides from Penny Lancaster “I am extremely sad about Manuel’s (Rod Stewart’s wife) to — and more unexpected death. It is no coincidence recently at her November wedding — that Pronovias’ growth and international Charisse Verhaert, Belgian wife of Julio recognition as a fashion reference hap- Iglesias Jr. and mother-of-the-groom, pened during his time as creative direc- Isabel Preysler. tor. He was not just talented but a good Pronovias’ brands sell in 90 countries professional colleague and a very sensi- through 185 company-owned or fran- tive friend,” said Sever Garcia, one-time chised stores and 3,800 points of sale. national sales director for Pronovias The latest openings include new mar- USA and current chief executive officer kets Romania, Venezuela and Ecuador. of New York-based SGN Group, which In 2011, worldwide turnover for the promotes Spanish brands in the U.S. bridal group totaled 150.3 million euros, Lynn Harlow, owner of Promises and or $196 million at current exchange, Lace in Burlington, Ontario, praised with last year’s sales expected to reach AT Mota’s artistic talent and vision. “He was $230 million, an increase of 19 percent. YOu’ve gOT FrIendS In The buSIneSS Supreme Court Sides With Nike in Dispute Nike moved to dismiss its claims, By KRISTI ELLIS as well as Already’s counterclaim, but Is your minority or woman-owned business Already opposed the dismissal of its ready for the inside track WASHINGTON — The Supreme Court counterclaim. Already provided affi- to success in the retail industry? Wednesday handed down a unanimous davits from three potential investors We’re looking for stars like you! decision in favor of Nike Inc. in a trade- who asserted they would not invest in mark dispute over a footwear design with any new versions of its footwear lines The Workshop at Macy’s is designed to Already LLC, a Dallas-based apparel and until Nike’s trademark was invalidated. help retail entrepreneurs and designers footwear company doing business under An executive also gave an affidavit that succeed and sustain growth in the retail the brand name Yums. Nike had intimidated retailers into re- The justices ruled that an action filed fusing to carry the company’s shoes, the industry. The Workshop at Macy’s is by Already seeking to declare Nike’s court said. now accepting applications for our trademark on a footwear design invalid The District Court dismissed Already’s Spring 2O13 Program. was moot because Nike had already counterclaim to invalidate Nike’s trade- signed a covenant not to enforce its trade- mark, concluding that was no longer a For more information, including interviews mark against the company’s footwear style. controversy because Nike had signed with past participants, application The Supreme Court case, which was the covenant not to sue, and the Second requirements and deadlines, brought by Already, grew out of a trade- Circuit Court of Appeals affirmed the visit macysinc.com/workshop. mark infringement lawsuit that Nike filed lower court’s ruling. against Already in 2009. In that case Nike In the majority opinion, Chief Justice alleged that two of Already’s athletic shoes John Roberts said the case, like others, violated Nike’s Air Force 1 trademark. had become “moot” because “the issues Find us. Follow us. #workshopatmacys Denying those allegations, Already presented are no longer ‘live’ or the par- filed a counterclaim against Nike and ties lack a legally cognizable interest.” challenged the validity of Nike’s Air Roberts said that Nike had met the Force 1 trademark. burden of proving that it would not However, while the suit was pending, resume its enforcement activity. “The Nike reversed course and issued a “cov- covenant is unconditional and irrevoca- Diversity. It’s not what you think. enant not to sue,” promising not to raise ble,” Roberts wrote. “It prohibits Nike At Macy’s, it is part of everything we do. any infringement or unfair competition from filing suit or making any claim claims against Already’s existing foot- or demand; protects both Already and wear designs or any future designs that Already’s distributors and customers, constituted a “colorable imitation” of cur- and covers not just current or previous rent products, according to the court. designs, but also colorable imitations.”

w10a010a;10.indd 10 1/9/13 7:16 PM 01092013191829 2x5 (right)

WWD, THURSDAY,WW JANUARYD thursday, 10, 2013 january 19 10, 2013 11 WWD.COM Fashion scoops MeMo pad

MISSONI SHOW TO GO ON: as Venezuelan the luncheon featured all manner of authorities, now joined by naval and gold baubles from jewelers like Neil Lane, flight experts from Italy, continue who was also in attendance. to search for the twin-engine plane Eastwood, the daughter of Clint carrying Vittorio Missoni, his life partner Eastwood and Frances Fisher, chatted and two friends that went missing last animatedly about her duties for this week en route to Caracas from the weekend. “I’m a bit nervous to be Michael Kors’ Los Roques archipelago, the Missoni on camera all the time, since I’ll be upcoming campaign. company said Wednesday that its handing out all the awards on stage, men’s wear show will still take place but I’m also very excited.” she said she CALIFORNIA COOL: For his spring campaign, on sunday in Milan “in order to give also has older sister Alison, a former Michael Kors aimed to highlight “the crisp, continuity” to the activities of the firm. Miss Golden Globe, to look to for graphic feel of the spring collection in The fall collection “will be shown advice, as well as Fisher, who is also bold California colors.” , who solely to press and buyers,” said the “my best acting coach.” is marking his 10th year shooting the company. It is understood no member The budding actress plans to Kors campaign, photographed models of the Missoni family will attend the wear a white Pronovias dress on the Karmen Pedaru and in Los show, although this was not confirmed red carpet sunday, and an ice blue angeles with the jet-set touches favored at press time. — LUISA ZARGANI gown for the awards show. For by the designer. Stephanie Seymour in Jason Wu’s spring campaign. lunch, she chose a red and blue taffeta The campaign will break in February was shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh SUZY’S HONOR: The International armani frock accessorized with her issues of U.s. magazines like Vogue, Matadin. The striking images, taken at herald Tribune’s longtime fashion own Equipment cashmere sweater plus harper’s Bazaar and W. The following legendary eatery La Grenouille, capture editor Suzy Menkes was awarded two custom Jennifer Meyer month, it will launch in 12 international the spirit of the designer’s spring clothes. Florence’s highest honor in a ceremony — both gold, of course. magazines, and, in total, the ad “I wanted to cast a strong woman Wednesday in the city’s Palazzo Eastwood has had a busy few placement will reach 25 counties, with, with definite sex appeal for my spring Vecchio. In a comic moment just before months, having just wrapped the for the first time, Poland, australia, collection which was partly inspired the ceremony, the city’s 37-year-old thriller “Final Girl,” directed by her Denmark, sweden and norway. Kors is by helmut newton’s provocative Mayor Matteo Renzi invited Menkes to boyfriend, Tyler Shields, who was also also placing the campaign in digital and photographs,” Wu said. “stephanie came sit at his desk, then pointed at her and her lunch date. “It’s coming out at the mobile outlets, social media platforms to mind as the perfect muse for this said, “The new mayor of Florence. The end of the year,” he added. she is also and traditional outdoor advertising. collection and the fact that she has worked people of the city are very happy.” set to be the new face for Too Faced — MARC KARIMZADEH with newton just made perfect sense.” Renzi described Menkes as “one of cosmetics, whose fall ad campaign will seymour admires the designer the most incredible representatives of be shot soon. — MARCY MEDINA SUPERMODEL MOMENT: Those who have equally much. “he looks like a 20-year- fashion” and lauded her as a beacon of seen paparazzi photos of Stephanie Seymour old FIT student, but has the skill of a values and ethics “even in this moment recently frolicking on the beach in st. great couturier of the past,” she said.

of crisis in journalism.” and Barth’s know she still hasn’t lost that The campaign will run in spring L In remarks she had prepared in supermodel magic. Those who didn’t, editions of Love Magazine, Tank Italian and which were greeted with however, can now turn to Jason Wu’s spring Magazine and self service, as well as hearty applause, Menkes said, “I ads for proof. Wu cast seymour for his outdoors in lower Manhattan during want to think of this award not as an Lexie More spring campaign, which, for the first time, fashion week. — M.K. honor to me but as a love letter to

Italian fashion.” she also thanked photo by Pitti Immagine chief executive officer Raffaello Napoleone, who she said encouraged her to come to Pitti the Coach Names Christine Putur CIO first time more than 20 years ago. CoaCh InC. has tapped Christine egies. Prior to staples, she worked at Pitti Immagine chairman Gaetano Putur as executive vice president and Compaq Computer Corp. Marzotto presented Menkes with a gift chief information officer. “Chris brings 25 years of broad-based — a silver cup with a boar figure design Taking the reins on Jan. 22, Putur suc- and relevant IT [information technology] on it. Praising Menkes’ “independence, ceeds Tom Britt, who left Coach last year. experience to Coach. her expertise and correctness and professionalism,” Putur joins Coach from staples Inc., strong operational track record make her Marzotto said, “You’re respected where she was senior vice president and cio. a valuable addition to the Coach manage- because you really write what you Glenn Close and Stella McCartney During her 12-year career at staples, ment team,” said Jerry stritzke, president think.” he also highlighted her “fine the executive was responsible for the and chief operating officer. “at Coach, she humor” for “making us think fashion is company’s information technology will set our Is [information services] strat- important [while reminding us] it’s not STELLA’S SET: “This is so stella,” Elettra strategy and its global strategy. she also egy and oversee the operation details of everything.” Wiedemann said of the scene at the helped develop the retailer’s e-com- service delivery, addressing the needs of others at the ceremony included americas society art Gallery, where merce platform, as well as its retail, our rapidly growing global business.” salvatore Ferragamo chairman Stella McCartney presented her pre- supply chain and global corporate strat-  —ALEXANDRASTEIGRAD Ferruccio Ferragamo and ceo Michele Norsa; fall collection Tuesday night. “This Cameron Silver of Decades, and Idanna mise-en-scène is what she’s all about, Pucci. — GORDON SORLINI chic yet playful.” Wiedemann, clad in a citrine from the designer’s resort collection, continued surveying a the sea of stella in the room where LL Francesca Eastwood chicly outfitted models walked among the mere mortals. Hanne Gaby Odiele lounged on a chaise in one corner, For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Sarde onato

d sipping Champagne while debating the virtues of the new iPhone with Tilda Lindstam. In the next room, models

photo by huddled around a tufted ottoman to play scrabble Spaces “It’s like cheveux,” Kayley Chabot said to French face Manon Leloup, running her fingers through her perfectly COMMERCIAL coiffed tresses in an attempt to explain REAL ESTATE New York Embroidery Studio Embroidery, Laser Cutting & her latest play: “h-a-I-R-Y.” nearby, Embellishments Full service shop to the FASHION JEWELRY SALES EXEC trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or Fashion jewelry division of a large ac- Jerry Seinfeld said hello to a bundled [email protected] cess co seeks an ambitious, highly mo- up Alec Baldwin, while McCartney tivated & positive sales exec with a fol- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, lowing. Must have 3 yrs experience. introduced the comedian’s wife Jessica PRODUCTIONS Travel required. Many account availa- to model Frankie Rayder. other notables 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Full service shop to the trade. ble. Salary + commission. Email res: Menswear Showrooms Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 [email protected] included Hope Atherton, Cecilia Dean, Jeff D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Koons, Glenn Close, David Neville and Westman. — TAYLOR HARRIS Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail BENZ ON THE BENCH: after repositioning ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 his label for the contemporary market for spring, Chris Benz has decided to take a season off the new York Fashion Week schedule for fall to focus on GOLDEN GIRL: This year’s Miss Golden restructuring his business. “We have Globe Francesca Eastwood was the guest of received great feedback from the honor at the World Gold Council’s lunch marketplace after just one season,” to kick off this week’s Globes festivities. said Benz. “I want ample time to (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] The first event held at Chateau implement all that we have learned.” Marmont’s newest venue, selma house, — JESSICA IREDALE

w10a011a;8.indd 11 1/9/13 8:01 PM 01092013200225

Looking Back to Move Forward Brioni creative director Brendan Mullane delves into the brand’s archives for inspiration. Page MW2

January 10, 2013

FOUR DAYS IN FLORENCE Luxury Sportswear Draws Retailers At Pitti Uomo Heritage patterns in suits, technical outerwear and creative knitwear seen as key opportunities for fall.

by KATYA FOREMAN and GORDON SORLINI

FLORENCE — Despite the patchy econom- ic environment, a feel-good energy pulsed through the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade fair here, reflecting an optimistic outlook from vendors for 2013. The four-day event, which wraps up Friday, got off to a slower-than- usual start due to fog-induced transport disruptions and an overlap with London Collections: Men. With designer brands ruling the men’s market, messages from retailers to luxury vendors included a call to sharpen the scis- sors, with fit among the key issues. “Without question, the taste level of the luxury exhibitors is exceptional; however, it is geared for the local market more than international,” said Tom Kalenderian, ex- ecutive vice president and general mer- chandise manager of men’s wear at Barneys New York. “The sportswear is the biggest issue. We would be able to buy more if it was styled in a more contemporary way. Chalk There is tremendous opportunity as there is a great audience for luxury and good taste, but while the product is beautiful, with ex- quisite materials and details, they haven’t been able to translate it into a modern life- It Up style. When you think about what Brunello Cucinelli, Massimo Piombo and , who is not showing here, have been able to do… In an homage to Savile it’s about filling this void; the younger guys really do appreciate luxury, but they still Row tailoring, Alexander want it to fit in a modern way.” McQueen creative director Underscoring its global stance, the Brunello Cucinelli collection integrated a Sarah Burton rearranged spectrum of iconic international style codes. classic pinstripes into an Tailored clothing carried traditional British elegant patchwork of men’s wear patterns such as Prince of Wales and glen plaid; the American biker jacket intersecting lines. “It feels was revisited in Spanish shearling, and a right to focus on Savile Row capsule line of pants and jean shirts was for our first-ever McQueen built from luxury Japanese denim. The firm’s namesake founder and chief men’s wear show in London,” executive officer said that he was “very posi- said Burton. “This collection tive” on the prospects for the luxury goods is full of tailoring traditions sector in 2013. In 2012, sales at the company, which listed on the Milan Stock Exchange and subtle references to last spring, jumped 15 percent, to 279 mil- English style.” McQueen was lion euros, or $368.3 million at average ex- change rates for the period. one of many labels that put a Treading the route, Andrea fresh spin on classic suits and heritage Canè, creative director of WP Lavori, fabrics at London Collections: Men, which holds the worldwide licenses for the Woolrich John Rich & Bros., Woolrich the three-day showcase that took Woolen Mills, Baracuta, B.D. Baggies and place earlier this week at a variety of Avon Celli brands, as well as various distri- venues around town. For more, see bution rights for Barbour and Blundstone, revealed the company is in the final stages of pages MW4 and MW5. acquiring an undisclosed heritage American Photo by GiovAnni GiAnnoni brand, which it plans to keep in the U.S. {Continued on page MW6}

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Now owned by PPR, brand preps for first collection can be 60 or 35, who think differently about themselves and see themselves under men’s creative director Brendan Mullane. in a different light,” said Mullane. “There’s nothing wrong with feeling by LUISA ZARGANI He said that in the 1945 to 1960 pe- sexy or desirable, men are opening up riod — at a time when the market was to this idea and Brioni can give them — Think of Brioni and the words dominated by Savile Row and British this desire factor.” “daring and innovative” may not be the first style — Brioni was known not only for Pesci concurred, saying that the ones that spring to mind. its artisanal quality, but also for its market has changed significantly, and But Brendan Mullane, the company’s first “provocative” streak. “Brioni was al- that men are evolving in a much more creative director, believes the brand has the most blasphemous; it was the Christian competitive arena, underscoring how potential to shake off its sedate image. To of men,” he said. Brioni was PPR, which controls labels including do so, Mullane is actually looking back to founded in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli, Gucci, , Stella McCartney Brioni’s early days, to the Fifties and Sixties, the master tailor, and Gaetano Savini, and Puma, is willing to grow and repo- when the label was considered a trendsetter. the original fashion coordinator. sition Brioni. He noted that the French “Brioni stands for the ultimate level of Mullane’s fall collection will be group’s support is not only financial, but perfect harmony of craftsmanship and qual- “graphic, sartorial, with high-end fab- much more comprehensive, in the nego- ity,” said Mullane in an interview at the com- rics, and more contemporary, architec- tiation of media costs, indirect services, pany’s offices in central Rome opposite its tural shapes,” he said, noting that he real estate and supplies. Although each luxurious and historic boutique. “What you wants the brand to be “recognizable with brand is “autonomous within a well-de- don’t immediately see, the level of that qual- a twist,” with a “sartorial palette,” to fined frame,” Pesci pointed to the “ex- ity, is even more. Brioni pushed boundaries which he “injected color — fearlessly.” change of information,” which he felt in the Fifties, it was driven and innovative The story behind the collection was “very important” to Brioni’s future. and it’s wrong for the brand to be perceived is based “on the idea of a journey an “The definition of a brand’s plat- as anything else,” said the British designer, Italian man has taken, noting in his form, the binding mission, and ours is who joined the company in July. diary what’s happened on the trip, what the aspiration to be unquestionably Brioni is forging its future under the he did at different stages.” He views the reference point for men’s elegance. ownership of PPR, which took control of Brioni more as a lifestyle brand than This is our mission and our claim is to the men’s wear firm in 2011, and will a fashion one, repositioned “in the su- Francesco Pesci and Brendan Mullane be one of a kind,” said Pesci. unveil the first collection designed by per-high, luxury category.” He un- The market is becoming increasing- Mullane on Monday in Milan with derscored that he is “not anticatwalk,” not prepared to see craftsmanship in such a ly more global and Pesci said the company a presentation at the neoclassic but that a presentation would be an powerful form — it was a pleasant surprise,” has responded efficiently to the significant Palazzo Serbelloni. appropriate first step for the brand, in said Mullane. “It’s the nearest thing to doing “growth in casualization.” “It’s been a good year, it started order to show how “diverse and multi- a male version of couture.” Brioni’s nontailored division now ac- with the decision to interrupt the faceted” Brioni is. The company’s manufacturing facilities counts for 45 percent of sales. Pesci identi- women’s line, but we’ve recovered Mullane was previously senior are in Italy’s Penne, a two-and-a-half-hour fied the U.S., Russia and the former Soviet with the men’s division and the head men’s wear designer at , drive from Rome, and the designer praised Union countries, as well as China as Brioni’s most significant step was the working with artistic director the artisans there for their passion and skills. main strategic markets. “Europe is very im- arrival of Brendan,” said Riccardo Tisci on the runway col- “They never say no to a request, their first portant for its capacity to attract customers Francesco Pesci, chief ex- lections, and he was also respon- answer is always: ‘OK, let’s try,’” he said. from outside the continent that have a high ecutive officer of Brioni. In sible for pre-collections and Mullane said it was “important” to spend spending power. On the other hand, I won’t August 2011, the company lines specifically for the Asian time in Rome and Penne, where Brioni also conceal my worries for the constant weaken- said it planned to close market. Prior to Givenchy, he has a tailoring school, to be close to “the ing of local spending power,” said Pesci. its women’s business, held various positions in men’s heart” of the company. “I am in constant com- Brioni has “expansion plans” for the U.S. severing ties with that wear design at Hermès, Louis munication with the artisans, we cut every as well in 2013, with the opening of stores, line’s creative director, Vuitton, Burberry and Alexander canvas for each fabric, it’s a lengthy working but Pesci declined to provide further details. Alessandro Dell’Acqua. McQueen. Mullane studied at process,” he explained. Mullane, who is cre- The company is also taking direct control of “Historically, there’s Kingston University, where he ating his own design studio, said Rome also retailing in China, where it already counts never been a creative obtained a B.A. in fashion, and at helps his creativity. “It’s very cultural, and 16 franchised stores, including Macau and director for men’s, and the Kingsway College of London, everyone here is so nonchalant about how Hong Kong. Globally, there are 36 directly this change has been where he gained a BTEC beautiful the city is,” he marveled. operated stores and 47 franchised units. very well received. It’s a Diploma in art and design. Pesci said the Italian men’s wear In terms of categories, in addition to signal that communicates “I was happy with my life in brand, known for its high-end tailored strengthening its eyewear, footwear and the intention of Brioni to Paris. I was going suits, is increasingly developing categories leather goods, Brioni is expanding its knit- A sketch move in a different way,” to move only if it such as outerwear and sportswear, foot- wear. Toward this end, he noted that the from Brendan said Pesci. “Brendan is felt right. I knew wear and accessories, and is also targeting company, which also works with special- Mullane’s not reinventing the brand, Brioni as the ul- a younger customer. ized, outside laboratories in Italy, is opti- first men’s but he is putting it in contact timate sartorial “Brioni has the know-how and exper- mizing efficiency and its industrial struc- collection. again with its original spirit.” brand, but I was tise to cater to different kinds of men, who ture in Penne.

Joseph Abboud Goes Upscale With Red Label Launch by DAVID LIPKE showcased the designs of creative director units, including each style’s various color Bernardo Rojo and signaled the brand’s and fabric options. JA APPAREL CORP. is aiming to elevate intention to compete in the luxury arena. “There’s a bit of an edge but it’s its Joseph Abboud brand into the de- “We think it’s the natural evolution men’s wear that is very wearable. It’s signer arena with the launch of a new of the brand under Bernardo’s leader- not a lot of bells and whistles, there’s Red Label collection of sportswear, tai- ship and the success we’ve had with two a purity of line to the collection,” said lored clothing and accessories. The line, runway shows in New York,” said Tony Rojo of his latest designs. “I’m mixing manufactured in partnership with Italy’s Sapienza, chief executive officer of JA materials like bonded Neoprene with Cipriani SpA, made its debut at Pitti Apparel Corp. leather and a cashmere lined Uomo in Florence this week and will be The Red Label collection will launch in technical fabrics.” spotlighted in a runway show there on exclusively at Harrods in London this Selvey asserted Red Label is expected Thursday at the Stazione Leopolda. spring and then expand to doors in the to become a “significant” part of the over- Prices for Red Label product are U.S., Canada, Europe, Russia and the all Joseph Abboud business. The com- more than double the core Joseph Middle East in the fall. The new brand- pany’s Blue Label tailored clothing busi- Abboud Blue Label offerings that are ing, labels and hangtags incorporate an ness posted a 35 percent sales increase in carried at Nordstrom and other specialty oxblood-red color scheme to set it apart 2012, according to Sapienza. retailers. Red Label suits will retail for from Joseph Abboud Blue Label product. Red label will sit atop a Joseph $1,200 to $2,500, unconstructed “We want to reinsert ourselves as a Abboud brand pyramid that encompass- for $950 to $1,900, woven shirts for $225 design leader in America,” said Kenton es Blue Label, a White Label line that is to $595, knit shirts for $180 to $375, cloth Selvey, president of Joseph Abboud sold primarily at Men’s Wearhouse, the outerwear for $750 to $1,500 and leather Brand Group, the division that oversees Joe Joseph Abboud brand sold at J.C. outerwear for $1,500 to $5,000. design, marketing and licensing at JA Penney and the Joseph Abboud Boys By comparison, Blue Label suits retail Apparel. “We have lots of room to grow business licensed to Peerless. for $695 to $1,000, woven shirts for $98 to at the upper end. We’re looking to break “This manufacturing collabora- $120 and outerwear for $300 to $600. into higher-end retailers and get back tion brings together an American de- The push into higher price points fol- into key specialty doors that help define sign house and Italian manufacturing lows Joseph Abboud’s return to the run- a brand among opinion leaders.” expertise,” said Roberto Cipriani, ceo ways of New York Fashion Week last year Sportswear is the key focus of the of Cipriani, which also produces the The Joseph Abboud Red Label line is an outgrowth after a seven-year absence. The initiative collection, with about 200 stockkeeping brand under license. of the brand’s runway looks, seen here.

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MW4 WWD thursday, january 10, 2013 Men’s Week London Men’s Shows Finding Their Footing

by SAMANTHA CONTI holiday season to get samples made For Full reviews and and shows organized. Agi & Sam run-oF-show images, see LONDON — It’s rare that a G-8 “I mentor young designers, and I leader happily takes to the mi- was nervous about the shows taking WWD.com/ crophone to talk about fashion place so soon after Christmas, and menswear-news. — including the Marks & Spencer that they wouldn’t be ready,” said he’s wearing — but Stephen Ayres, head of fashion at earlier this week, Britain’s Prime Liberty. “But they were ready, and Minister David Cameron did just the deadline gave them the confi- that — and no one took the gesture dence to cope under pressure.” more seriously than the British Ayres said he believes London Fashion Council. is making a name as the city that “Fashion is not just some supports emerging men’s talent. sort of accessory, you’re not an “If Milan is about the superbrands add-on,” he told industry fig- and Paris is about the avant-garde, ures including Tom Ford, Tommy it’s London that’s supporting young Hilfiger, Richard James, Jonathan designers, and the shows are im- Saunders and Patrick Grant during perative to their future,” he said. a reception at Number 10 Downing Still, Richard Cohen, vice pres- Street. An ultraenthusiastic ident of business development at Cameron told his audience that he Saks Fifth Avenue, said it will take wants to see more high-end goods time for London to make a name manufactured in Britain as part of as a men’s wear capital. “This sea- an overall strategy to “reindustrial- son was a good start, and there ize” the country. “ Yo u have my 100 is no question that London is — “I’ve had a house here since percent support, so just go for it.” and could be — something,” said 1997, my design studio is here, and The BFC, which staged its sec- Cohen, who left for Pitti halfway I love it. In many ways it’s my home, ond, three-day showcase of men’s through the London shows. and my taste in men’s wear has al- this week, has been push- “It will take time — two or three ways been a mix of Anglophile with ing hard for London’s designers seasons at least. It’s not something the lightness of the Italian hand. to stand shoulder-to-shoulder you do in five minutes. And I was And English men’s wear is at the with their counterparts in Milan disappointed not to see more buy- root of contemporary men’s wear, and Paris. Cameron’s pep talk ers,” added Cohen. “I’d like to see so it makes sense. We’re committed — entirely his idea — left much more American buyers in London. to London for the near term, and as of Monday night’s crowd abuzz. The organization of the shows was long as we can attract the press we “There could not have been a bet- well done, and there’s lots of cre- need, we’ll stay here. Ultimately, ter start to the New Year,” said ativity and energy in the city.” that will be the test,” he said. Natalie Massenet, the new chair- The American stores attending, The shows themselves were woman of the British Fashion in addition to Saks Fifth Avenue, professional, polished affairs. Council. “There is enormous po- were Bloomingdale’s and Opening Among the major trends to emerge tential here, and the stage is set.” Ceremony. About 17 stores from were explosive colors; the reinven-

But there are also many chal- outside the U.K. attended London tion of traditional suits with patch- im Jenkins lenges: Some buyers and members Collections: Men from markets in- work and paneling; a play on pro- t of the press were forced to cut cluding China, Italy, France, Japan portions for outerwear and suits, short their trips to London to at- and South Korea. and lots of statement knits, many tend Pitti Uomo in Florence, which Ford, who with Alexander of which were worn layered under began Tuesday, the second day McQueen was one of the two biggest suits, in place of shirts. of London Collections: Men. The names on this season’s calendar, The Alexander McQueen show

timing also forced some to termi- said his decision to show men’s wear — an homage to Savile Row with Giannoni and Giovanni nate their post-Christmas holidays in London — he’s also showing his lots of dramatic flourishes — em- by earlier than usual, with designers women’s wear with a runway event bodied many of the ideas that were Alexander McQueen and their teams rushing during the next month — was a natural one. floating in the London air. The photos

brand’s creative director, Sarah Topman Design Burton, took the dark pinstripe suit — with its nipped waist and signa- ture McQueen raised shoulder — Nicole and tore it to bits. She reformed the Farhi fabric into a patchwork that resem- bled white pick-up sticks scattered across a black canvas. The show also featured an im- pressive lineup of evening jackets crafted from an elegant patchwork of velvet, satin, grosgrain and jac- quards, some with flourishes of gold embroidery. Other suits were made from artful patchworks of Prince of Wales and other checked fabrics, while long, sweeping coats were fashioned from rectangular panels of black and red wool re- sembling cardinals’ . Lou Dalton, Richard Nicoll and Oliver Spencer also toyed with suit fabrics, cutting, splicing and reforming traditional shapes. Dalton fashioned her suits from rich, berry red inspired by band- stiff, thick fabrics and layered con- stand players’ . He closed trasting dark panels onto pocket his show with a trio of shimmery flaps, around waists, and on the tuxedos in grape, emerald green and flanks and sleeves of boxy blazers. midnight blue, worn with matching Nicoll favored slim, two-tone suits crystallized velvet . in a collection that he described as Knitwear played a starring role “preppy, sporty and clean,” while in many collections, not the least Spencer’s suits bore thick, contrast- of which was at Tom Ford, which ing stripes from shoulder-to-toe. showed off luscious cashmere Color — the more intense and Fair Isle in lighthearted nature-inspired the better — was pastels such as lilac. “I hadn’t de- another major story, with Hilfiger’s signed a Fair Isle sweater since new tailored clothing collection a the Eighties. But I think it looks rainbow of turquoise, forest green really good again,” said Ford dur- and aubergine, while Richard ing a presentation at his showroom. James — long known for a deft touch He paired his Fair Isle knits with Jonathan Saunders with bold shades in everything from checked trousers, loafers and suede suits to knits and shirts — used a coats for a sporty, Sixties Saint

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Lou Margaret Dalton Howell im Jenkins t

For Full reviews and run-oF-show images, see WWD.com/ photo by menswear-news.

Tommy Hilfiger with models sporting the fall collection. Tommy’s Time Tommy Hilfiger landed he’s cut the jackets shorter in London with a bang on and made the trousers slim- Monday morning, in a day mer than in the past. that took him from breakfast The palette pops in shades at the private members’ club of bright blue or forest green 5 Hertford Street and the for corduroy trousers; eggplant presentation of Goodwood for velveteen peak-lapel jack- Sports & Racing by Belstaff, ets, and red, white and blue in Richard Hackett to a cocktail party at Number American flag-inspired prints James London 10 Downing Street, the British for blazer linings. There are prime minister’s residence. cream-colored dinner jackets In between, Hilfiger un- and burgundy corduroy suits, veiled the revamped and tartan tuxedos with black satin expanded Tommy Hilfiger lapels and green smoking Tailored, a collection load- jackets. Hilfiger said color is ed with color and attitude. a major, evolving story for the Formerly under license with brand, with chinos in bright Holy Fashion Group but now hues selling faster than ever in-house, Tailored features before. “Colored bottoms — red day, evening, work and week- in particular — are flying off end wear, in addition to a full the shelves,” said the designer. range of quilted or leather out- Hilfiger’s day ended at a erwear with detachable lin- party to fete the new collec- ings, and accessories. tion, with guests including the Suits range in price from stars of the “Doctor Who” and 400 euros, or $524 at current “Sherlock Holmes” TV shows. exchange, to 700 euros, or Matt Smith, the actor behind $917, the more expensive of the ultrasuccessful, time-trav- which feature fabrics from eling TV doctor, and Benedict mills including Ermenegildo Cumberbatch, who plays Zegna and . During Holmes, joined fellow actors, an exclusive walk-through at including Riz Ahmed and the brand’s London showroom, Kayvan Novak, at The Zetter Hilfiger said that he and the Townhouse in Clerkenwell. team started with one question And while his year may in mind: “What do we want to have begun on a professionally wear? Everybody’s a bit tired hectic note, Hilfiger’s top 2013 of navy, gray, black and brown, resolution has nothing do with and we wanted to have some work. “I always want more fun and we wanted to be dif- time with my family,” he said. ferent,” he said, adding that — S.C.

Moritz look. But Ford didn’t limit London designers also played himself to patterns. He also layered with proportions, pumping up out- Oliver Christopher Christopher solid-colored roll-neck sweaters erwear in the spirit of the Michelin Spencer Kane Shannon under checked three-piece suits Man, and sending out roomy suits — in tune with the collection’s col- that looked as if they were borrowed legiate, Anglo-American vibe. from a father or older brother. At Christopher Kane took his knits Topman, there were chunky, over- in a completely different direc- size with fur-trimmed hoods, tion: His cardigans were fashioned while Agi & Sam, a label that took from fuzzy chenille yarns, while part in the Man collective show, sent others had a spongy feel that came out puffy plaid jackets with big state- from 3-D patterns that resembled a ment collars — not unlike the one on leopard print in relief. At Hackett Count Dracula’s cape. London, Jeremy Hackett mixed Margaret Howell played a more and layered tailored pieces with subtle game of proportions. Her patterned knitwear in the form of collection was packed with slightly sweater vests, V-neck pullovers and oversize looks inspired by work- scarves. Nicole Farhi’s new creative wear — the sort of clothes a young director, Joanna Sykes, offered up man might borrow from his dock- beautifully executed knits in rich worker father’s closet. There were textures — waffle, rib, cable and wool car coats in sober shades of intarsia. Jonathan Saunders’ three- navy, gray, or army green, often tone textured knits gave depth to worn with ribbed and nubby knits his sophisticated collection, while or striped sweaters. For more for- his inventive, camouflage-printed mal outings, Howell favored tone- knits complemented the collection’s on-tone, softly constructed suits and angles and graphic shapes. roomy jackets with patch pockets.

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{Continued on page MW1} chino,” in the season’s key “sober” the classic Neapolitan shirts by A WP Store, its port- shades of caramel, gingerbread, Salvatore Piccolo, which “were folio of brands, is planned for bordeaux and bottle green. Suits, great and featured interesting fab- New York in fall 2014, based in a de Lalun believes, will be usurped rics, very Japan-oriented.” building on Bond Street, which by interchangeable separates that Provenance, performance, inno- will also serve as the headquarters “can take you from the office to vation and luxury were among the for its U.S. subsidiary. In the same casual occasions.” He saluted the watchwords for vendors, with a con- year, the firm plans to introduce Hardy Amies diffusion line for its tinued blurring of classifications. Woolrich John Rich & Bros. to the balance of affordability and cre- “The key [direction] is ‘New Canadian market in partnership ativity. “There’s a whole new mar- Elegance,’” said United Arrows with Wool Can., Canè said, adding ket there.” men’s buyer Shoji Uchiyama cit- that distribution there will focus Matthew Singer, men’s fashion ing the “dressed-up look” mixing on wholesale. director, Neiman Marcus Group, in the season’s key trends. It’s all But from the buyers’ perspective, said he was excited to see the mar- about authenticity and tradition there was no major shift in trends ket using more patterns in cloth- in casualwear, using high-quality across the Pitti Uomo collections. ing and sportswear. “ and fabrics and textures, sometimes Tancrède de Lalun, merchan- Brunello Cucinelli are great exam- folding in avant-garde elements, dise manager for men’s and wom- ples of this. Fabrics feel nostalgic he said. en’s wear at Printemps, comment- and have a sense of heritage.” Tailoring players reported ed on the avalanche of outerwear, Maurizio Purificato, owner of healthy business across the board, notably down jackets and parkas, Antonia Uomo, said he was look- with a continuing divergence be- be it from sportswear, contempo- ing for items featuring a “classic, tween high-end and low-end. “The rary or classic brands. Volumes very clean style.” He singled out typical consumer is buying less, were either supersized or fine and the Camoshita by United Arrows in general, going either upmarket slim, with a number of fitted down collection, “which was very sarto- or down,” said Giancarlo Isaia, jackets, à la Uniqlo. Creative rial, chic and elegant;” TS(S) for chairman of Isaia. “Those of us knits will be among the season’s its incredible fabrics; Nanamica, who moved upscale managed to star items, he predicted, with key “which showed very beautiful do well, for our customers are con- pant styles including the “winter camouflage windstoppers,” and sumers who are more informed and attentive. In our showroom, we a second Beijing location, a second East Coast bankers,” said Roberta Want Les Essentiels explain to customers how the prod- Shanghai store and a new location Cocco, president of the company’s de la Vie uct is made. The consumer wants in Shenzhen. North American unit. to be taught about this.” The company forecasts further At Florentine luxury label The company — whose 2012 growth in 2013 propelled by sports- , the company’s ceo sales increased about 18 percent, wear, which represents around 30 Niccolò Ricci confirmed the firm to nearly 33 million euros, or $43.6 percent of sales and is expected is still eyeing a stock-market flota- million — is seeing strong growth to grow to 50 percent in the next tion. “In the next couple of years continue in markets like the U.S. three to four years. “Men these we should decide among three op- (which alone represents some 50 days choose to wear casual most of tions: keep Stefano Ricci a family- percent of sales), Japan, Russia the time, so the company is follow- owned business; sell some shares and Ukraine. The company is also ing the business.” to private equity, or do an IPO.” making a push into China, where it Belvest has broadened its offer In 2012, the brand opened flag- recently opened stores in Beijing to include shirts, knitwear and ships in Vienna, Zurich, Saint and Shanghai. “Feedback has been even jeans (like the B5 — its five- Moritz, Switzerland, and Abu positive,” Isaia said, adding that pocket line). “Men [in the U.S.] are Dhabi and saw a 54 percent in- another three stores are planned: dressing less formally — except for crease in sales versus 2011.

Kiton Ra-Re

Isaia Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013 MW7 ner Interest at Pitti Uomo

Salvatore Piccolo FOR A LOOK AT MILAN INSPIRATIONS, SEE WWD.com/ menswear-news.

Sugden, marketing director of . “We’ve got the name, and we’re known as a heritage brand but I wouldn’t say that the range is necessarily geared towards solely heritage, we’re bringing out all sorts of inter- esting designs, we’re not doing a worn look. “It’s amazing the amount of people who

MAESTRI DAVIDE have come knocking on our door because of the heritage trend, and they don’t take it very Brunello Cucinelli kindly when we say, ‘No,’” he continued. New

PHOTOS BY customer Celine made the grade, though, with Mackintosh producing some coats in Italian high-end formalwear maker Ralph Lauren — representing some 70 per- “The point is how the company itself lives rubberized fabrics for the brand’s fall col- St. Santandrea said it expects signifi- cent of sales. up to the new challenges of contemporary lection, he said. Mackintosh is also in talks cant volume increases in 2013, boosted The heritage trend still has a lot more lifestyle,” said WP Lavori’s Canè, whose col- to collaborate on a “big heritage push” by by strength in foreign markets, such as mileage in men’s wear, meanwhile, though lection included a slim-fit three-piece suit in Mulberry for this fall and next year. Around Russia and Kazakhstan. for labels with true legacies it doesn’t equate an authentic buffalo check tricked with wa- 15 to 20 percent of Mackintosh’s sales come The firm is looking to boost its own with vintage product. Instead, the market’s terproof zips. from manufacturing for other brands. brand’s development, with its private label dinosaurs are looking to stay relevant by de- “If you’re going down the provenance — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM business — which includes customers like livering product with a contemporary edge. route, it’s about fact not fiction,” said John ALESSANDRA TURRA

a pop-up store at the show, peddling vi- This and That From the Show brant T-shirts, socks and bags. Q Marc Newson put in an appearance at Q Brunello Cucinelli launched a line Butter trade show in Berlin in the form lection produced by Cone Denim, with a the G-Star Art of Raw Gallery in the his- of formal shoes with cap toes, the of a Pixar-produced animated short line due to hit the market in March. toric Sala Ottagonale venue for the pre- firm’s signature gray cash- movie featuring the brand’s re- sentation of a giant Taschen-published mere trim inside and com- cently adopted mascot, “Skeleton Q British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown, book, “Marc Newson: Works,” featuring pany logo on the sole. Dog,” as the main hero. “ Yo u which this summer will operate pop-up a retrospective of his works, as well as see the whole story of denim, stores in Merci in Paris and Santa Eulalia his latest apparel capsule for the brand. Q Woolrich John Rich so you see the cotton plants in Barcelona, introduced its first coat, a The line includes a reversible bomber, a & Bros. has revived an moving to the threads, you waterproof trans-seasonal mac. cheeky T-shirt with a Fifties-style illustra- outdoor performance see how they weave it tion of a man being slapped in the face, gear capsule, The into denim and the in- Q Sweden’s The White , which at the and an architectural sweatshirt bearing a Teton, which was digo dips, and then at fair presented its first range of winter ba- flocked-velvet grizzly bear with a fish in its first launched in the the end there’s a kind of sics in heavy and fine-ribbed merino wool, stomach. “We’ve been plugging away slow- Seventies. Highlights jacket and the skeleton is working on a conceptual capsule cloth- ly, slowly and I think the collection now is include a waterproof dog slides into the jacket ing collection with New York-based indus- in a much better place than it’s ever been. Blizzard Teton Parka and starts running,” said G-Star’s trial designer Stephen Burks. We’re now having a lot of commercial suc- with the brand’s iconic Remco de Nijs, adding that the cess, which we didn’t in the past. I feel square quilting, a coyote soundtrack is by cult DJ Skrillex. Q Norwegian Rain is launching a bag line now we’ve really identified the consumer,” fur-trimmed and high The film will be available on the this season, with footwear to follow soon. said Newson, who, separately, is working neck. The brand also present- brand’s Web site and screened in on a range of office furniture for Knoll in ed its first full women’s col- theaters in Europe, the U.S. and Q Cruciani chief executive officer Luca the U.S. lection, designed by Monica Japan starting in February. Caprai unveiled an ongoing “spontaneous Lardera, which encompasses collaboration” with Psy. The Korean rap- Q With chinos and colored jeans long hog- feminine versions of house Q Baracuta, which will launch per, who reached international fame with ging the spotlight, denim exhibitors hailed classics, such as a pastel take an e-commerce site in early the “Gangnam Style” hit, is among the fans the return of the blue jean. “This season on its Arctic parka and a tweed February, introduced a range of Cruciani’s signature macramé brace- there’s a return to indigo,” said Matthew and jacket inspired by an of accessories, including bow lets, which were launched in August 2011. Saam, J Brand’s men’s design director. The archive hunting suit. Lardera ties, watch straps and braces, “During his birthday party in New York’s premium denim maker offered a glimpse also worked with Porselli on made in collaboration with Times Square on Dec. 31, Psy got a few into its future development at Pitti, where a collection of ballet flats that traditional British mills, such bracelets from a girl and he immediately it launched a black leather biker jacket are handmade in Milan using as Abraham Moon. fell in love with them,” Caprai said, adding with slim sleeves and a firm body. “We’re wools from the Woolrich mill in that the rapper has already ordered one not just a denim brand. We’re evolving Pennsylvania. Q Jack Spade, which introduced a line of featuring four-leaf clovers and a heart in into a fashion brand,” said Saam, who con- suit separates at the show, in February the middle in 30 different colors. firmed the company is looking to make a Q G-Star will launch a new cam- will launch a made-in-USA denim col- push into men’s ready-to-wear with a full paign next week at the Bread & G-Star Raw Q Pitti Uomo guest designer Kenzo hosted collection planned for “sometime in 2014.” MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2013 Men’s Week Elkann Mulling IPO for Italia Independent by LuISA ZARGANI by 2015. There are six Italia Independent up in Italy.” his first book, country, whose image stores and 40 shops-in-shop in Italy and the “Le regole del mio stile” has deteriorated over MILAN — Lapo Elkann, founder of Italia brand is carried in 40 countries outside Italy. (“The rules of my style”), hit the past 20, 30 years,” Independent, is hoping to develop the brand Last year, the company opened subsidiar- bookstores after christmas said Elkann, a staunch globally and is considering either a public ies in France, Spain, Germany, Japan and and through its 192 pages, all supporter of Made in offering or selling a stake to a “foreign group the Middle East, and Elkann plans to open in color, Elkann, known for Italy. he urged his peers or individual,” he revealed during an inter- branches in hong Kong and in South America his stylish and sometimes to show a united front, view in his spacious office here, filled with “soon,” he said. Italia Independent, which of- quirky approach to fash- with a clear vision and personal memorabilia, palm trees and fers men’s apparel, also counts collaborations ion, offers his vision and innovative creativity. 500-inspired seats and tables. with luxury vertu phones; ; Smeg advice on the subject. The “I was less interested “To sustain growth and international ex- kitchen appliances, and for a tailor- book also provides insight in politics before, but pansion, I am looking at the AIM [Alternative made service, among others. into Elkann’s life, his globe- now, in this economic Market of capital] segment of the Milan Stock “We are growing on all fronts and our trotting, women (his rela- world context, you can- Exchange, which would allow the brand to goal is to grow more,” said Elkann, wearing tionship with vionnet owner not not look at politics. I either list in Milan or in London, or to sell a light green T-shirt and green jeans, tanned Goga Ashkenazi recently am an entrepreneur and a part of the holding to a foreign investor. I and well toned after a vacation in uruguay. ended), his passion for soc- there are families and don’t want to ever be indebted. There are “It is important to keep raising the bar and cer (his beloved Juventus individuals that work good possibilities on both fronts, and I will to have big goals,” he said, pointing to his team) and cars, and the in- with me. I am a share- make a decision this year,” said Elkann, who aspiration to compete with brands such as dividuals he’s met and been holder in one of the big- also founded the Independent Ideas cre- Ray-Ban with Italia Independent glasses. influenced by, from henry gest companies in Italy ative agency, both under parent company LA Eyewear remains a key focus for Elkann, Kissinger, the clintons and [Fiat], a proud Italian holding SpA. “I have been in contact with who highlighted the brand’s offer of 200,000 Shimon Peres to his aunt, The cover of “Le regole del mio stile.” citizen and I realize how banks for the past year but, at this moment, customized variations of five models. diane von Furstenberg. Italy is perceived abroad. they are not supporting small and medium- The young entrepreneur praised his team “This is not an autobiography; at 35 it Italy needs changes, new laws, new struc- sized firms in the medium and long period.” for helping him develop the brand and tout- would be arrogant, I am no sports cham- tures and a new organization,” he said, while The group is a minority shareholder in ed the potential of being part of a big group. pion, didn’t win a Nobel Prize or an oscar,” dismissing any idea of a more active role denim brand care Label and in music cre- “From my point of view, a single person in he said, noting that he hoped to appeal in politics. “It’s not all bad, and we should ative factory Sound Identity, and has a 50 charge of all relevant positions within a com- to a diverse readership, men and women highlight what we have and show a united percent stake in I-Spirit vodka. pany is a mistake — even though there are alike. “I don’t want to teach or determine front. French and German entrepreneurs Last year, the company reported sales of some relevant examples and I tip my off what should be done. The book is not only do it, and young people are more supported 15 million euros, or $19.2 million at average to them, but this is not the future,” he said. about style in clothing, but it’s about beauty. abroad. our youngest designers here are 50, exchange, and it has plans to hit 30 million Elkann, who is an heir to Fiat’s Beauty is Italy’s and Europe’s strength and there is a fear of competition, but to compete euros, or $39.3 million at current exchange, family, said he felt it is time to “shake things we should go back to that to relaunch the is a way to grow.”

charlie, his head of atelier, which think he would have been very Elbaz Honored at YMA Dinner is the first time that had ever been happy, proud and content.”

done. It was a huge honor.” FAnyc.com The evening also honored by JEAN E. PALMIERI operator. “her name is Joyce and she’s here It also opened up what he called b retired Pvh corp. president tonight,” he said, prompting sighs of “ahh,” a “speechless dialogue” between Allen Sirkin with the Lifetime You couLd hAvE heard a pin drop in the and applause. But thanks to an introduc- the two men, one where words Achievement award, and

jam-packed Grand Ballroom at the Waldorf- tion by former Bergdorf Goodman executive were not spoken but the message Schildhorn/ Michael Balmuth, chief execu-

Astoria hotel Tuesday night when Lanvin dawn Mello, Elbaz was finally introduced to was clear. “I would do a sketch, Joe tive officer of Ross Stores, who artistic director Alber Elbaz stepped up to Beene and managed to snag “the job of my leave it on his desk, he would res- was presented with the Retailer the podium to accept the 50th anniversary life. It was a dream that came true,” he said. ketch it,” etc. “I was like a little dog of the Year award. It raised $1.9 Geoffrey Beene Fashion Impact Award at Like many dreams, the reality was some- waiting for his master.” Alber Photo by million to support YMA’s schol- the 2013 YMA FSF Geoffrey Beene National what different. Elbaz said when he reported Following his speech, Elbaz Elbaz arship, mentoring and intern- Scholarship Awards dinner. to work the first day, there was “no place for told WWd that the recollections ship programs, making it the Elbaz proceeded to mesmerize the crowd, me in the office or in the studio.” ultimately, he shared were personal because “they had second-most successful dinner in the orga- which numbered more than 900, with reminis- he was put in a dressing room with a coffee to be personal. We had a very special rela- nization’s 76-year history and celebrated cences of the seven years he spent working for table as a desk. “I sat there sketching for a tionship and some very beautiful moments the 125 college students from around the Beene at his design studio in New Yorkc ity. week and no one even said hi to me,” he said. together. Everything I know, he taught me. It country who received $5,000 scholarships he started by relating how he “tried he was also told that those sketches “‘were was a very good school and like a home away from YMA. The evening also included the for three years to get an interview with not very Geoffrey Beene.’ I cried and I wait- from home. I’ve been very lucky. I’ve worked presentation of four $30,000 Geoffrey Beene Mr. Beene,” but was put off time and time ed to be fired,” he said. But Beene, who was with Mr. Beene and Mr. Saint Laurent, the National Scholarships and another four again, being told: “honey, we don’t have an out getting cataract surgery during Elbaz’s very best.” When asked what Beene would $10,000 runner-up scholarships to students opening.” That rejection also resulted in a first week, came to the rescue when he re- have thought of Elbaz’s ascent in the fashion who had lobbied for the money by creating a lifelong friendship with Beene’s telephone turned. “he saw my work and said to give it to world, he thought for a moment and said: “I variety of pop-up shops.

Isaia to Offer New Collection Man of Nick SabaN: b- ISAIA IS launching a new label. which will be manufactured in THE WEEK The luxury men’s brand said it Italy with full canvas construc- will introduce Eidos, a younger- tion, will be $1,595 to $1,795, a collagen-infused mask would help reduce skewed and lower-priced tai- about half the price of an Isaia The coach of the the puffiness and deep wrinkles. lored clothing and furnishings suit, which retails for begin- collection, for fall 2013. Eidos ning around $3,000. Shirts and national champion The windowpane pattern with the subtle pink will be designed by Antonio K. ties, which will also be pro- University of stripe is too matchy-matchy with the pink shirt, ciongoli, who has joined the duced in Italy, will retail for but on its own it’s an elegant print. company as creative direc- $245 to $275 and $150 respec- Alabama Crimson tor. For two years, ciongoli has tively, he added. Tide football been deputy creative director Plans call for expanding He may have filled out the jacket back in the for Michael Bastian’s designer Eidos to a full lifestyle collection team seems to be Eighties, but now he should opt for a much collection as well as the Gant by by 2014, Shay said. slimmer silhouette. Michael Bastian line. Shay said the initial offering channeling a look James Shay, president of u.S. from the brand will be targeted from the Eighties Too much pink. a flat white pocket square and South America for Isaia, to “a handful of specialty stores” would be more contemporary. said: “We think Antonio is fan- and the company will also have hit movie “Working tastic and we’re very excited he’s discussions with some larger Girl” with his light- going to be joining our team.” high-end stores such as Barneys The shirt and tie combination works great; he stressed that Eidos will New York. “We will show it to colored suit and however, with the rest of the pink accents, be a “standalone” collection that our existing Isaia partners and pastel furnishings. it proves a bit too much. a simple burgundy will be shown independently then decide where it will be striped tie would have been a better choice. of the company’s flagship Isaia placed,” he said. However, with the brand. Although Isaia is showing The name Eidos is based on hint of a tan and at Pitti uomo in Florence, Eidos the Greek word meaning “form” The pants fit him correctly and are at least will not be unveiled until it is and the Italian word meaning the manly receding a more narrow cut compared with the shown to retailers at the com- “idol.” The logo for the collec- billowy blazer. /AP Photo pany’s offices in tion depicts the chariot allego- hairline, he strangely P beginning next week. ry from Plato’s Phaedrus. Shay can pull it off. Shay characterized Eidos said it is a name that Isaia had The tasseled embellished with the stumpy J. Philli as a “Neopolitan-inspired col- used about a decade ago but toe cap is one of the most annoying shoes out vid dA lection” that is being produced the collection was only offered there. Go for a more modern style. in a “more approachable way.” in Europe. hoto by

Price points for the clothing, — J.E.P. P

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