THINKTANK RETAIL NICK GRAHAM SHOCKER ON WHY MEN MEN’S WEARHOUSE ARE THE NEW OUSTS GEORGE ZIMMER. WOMEN. PAGE MW2 WIND IN THEIR SAILS PAGE MW4 CREATURES OF THE WIND GETS NEW INVESTOR. PAGE 2

APPEAL EXPECTED Dolce and Gabbana Guilty in Tax Trial By LUISA ZARGANI SPRING 2014 MILAN — Guilty. That was the verdict handed down to Domenico MILAN Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, as well as four other MEN’S defendants, here Wednesday afternoon in the design- COLLECTION ers’ long-running tax evasion case. Judge Antonella THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 PREVIEW Brambilla sentenced the designers and accountant Luciano Patelli to one year and eight months in jail, WWD plus legal expenses. Dolce’s brother Alfonso, gen- eral director Cristiana Ruella and fi nance director Giuseppe Minoni were sentenced to one year and four months in jail plus legal expenses. There is little chance the designers and the other defendants will serve any jail time because the sen- tences are below the two-year minimum generally re- quired in Italy to do so. The defendants were also charged with paying the Revenue Agency a provisional fi ne of 500,000 euros, or $668,650 at current exchange. The plaintiff solicitor Gabriella Valadia at the end of May asked for a provision- al fi ne of 10 million euros, or $13 million, citing damages to the image of the Revenue Service. Valadia at the time claimed that tax evasion “shows a system that is not cred- ible and effi cacious, it hurts the credibility of the Italian fi scal system, aggravated by the fact that the individuals at the center of the trial are so famous.” The court’s fi ne is separate from one imposed by the Revenue Agency of more than 400 million euros, or $535 million at current exchange, at the end of March. The only defendant totally acquitted Wednesday was Noella Antoine, an employee of Alter Domus, an agency that provides services in Luxembourg, as there was “no case,” said the judge. In his closing speech at the end of May, prosecutor Gaetano Ruta had requested Antoine be acquitted. The designers were acquitted on the second count they were originally charged with, which regarded the valuation of the company and the tax rate paid. Brambilla quickly delivered the verdict in a court- room that was teeming with reporters and TV crews SEE PAGE 5 DFS’ Upscale Push

By RACHEL BROWN

LOS ANGELES — The DFS Group is traveling far be- yond duty-free shopping. On Thursday, the travel retailer, which is major- ity owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, unveiled 10 spaces covering 25,000 square feet at Los Angeles International Airport’s revamped Tom Bradley International Terminal that represent its dedi- cation to cultivating a luxury environment on par with the top global luxury stores. The aim is to appeal to tourists, largely from emerging markets, China being the largest, with mounting wealth and sophistication. Masked Marvels The new spaces at LAX are part of an overall strat- As the Lone Ranger readies to ride into movie theaters this summer, his compatriot-in-concealment, egy to de-emphasize and, in the case of its downtown Galleria locations, move away from the tax-free part Zorro, will be crossing the border into Italy. The dashing swordsman is the inspiration for of DFS’ business model. Instead, the retailer is out Etro’s latest men’s collection, as seen here. “Zorro is the man without a face, doing good to underscore its position as an upscale destination without being recognized. This is the true revolution!” said designer Kean Etro. For more driven primarily by the assortment, service and a strong relationship with travelers specifi cally who advance looks — unmasked — of the Milan men’s collections, see pages MW8 and MW9. trust its merchandise and knowledge. “We have the most savvy customers in the world at this airport, who have very high standards and expectations coming from Asia, Europe and other places,” said Philippe Schaus, who became chairman and chief executive offi cer of DFS almost a year ago, during a tour of DFS’ 12,000-square-foot beauty sec- tion in Tom Bradley. “What we try to bring here to Los Angeles is a quality of offer and of ambiance, which is really in line with the best department stores in the world. In that sense, I hope we have set a new stan- dard for North American airports, in particular.” SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 Creatures of the Wind Gets Investment THE BRIEFING BOX Negotiations are under way footwear. The COTW founders By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG for a SoHo design studio that will have also been traveling to Japan IN TODAY’S WWD also serve as a New York office for a yet-to-be-launched collabora- NEW YORK — Creatures of for The Dock Group. Now that tion with Sanyo. Walker declined to the Wind is about to take flight, Gabier and Peters have a Lower elaborate, saying, “There are a lot thanks to a major investment East Side apartment, they will of possible expansions given their from The Dock Group. divide their time between down- distinctive voice. They have al- Lapo Elkann designed After speaking with poten- town Manhattan and Chicago’s ready have a fair number of collab- Gucci’s men’s capsule tial moneymen for a year or “semi up-and-coming” Humboldt orations, and there could be more.” collection with Frida so, founders Shane Gabier and Park neighborhood, Gabier said. The duo is also in the run- Giannini. For more, Christopher Peters have signed a Partners in life and work, the ning for the 2013-14 International see WWD.com. deal with the Los Angeles-based pair met at their alma mater, Woolmark Prize. Developing firm, which is headed by Matthew the School of the Art Institute “proper knits,” a category they Walker, The Row’s former presi- of Chicago, where Gabier still have experience in, is another pur- dent and chief operating officer. teaches. After graduation, Gabier suit they are excited about, Peters Walker declined to reveal the worked in Antwerp, Belgium, for said. Having teamed up with Aline stake he is acquiring in COTW, or designers Dirk Schönberger and Cautis in the past, Gabier and the level of the investment, but Jurgi Persoons before returning to Peters are brainstorming on new said The Dock’s strategy is to fabrics with the New York- invest $300,000 to more than based artist Sarah Sieradzki. $1 million in brands. Their label is sold via 20 re- The capital infusion is wel- tailers, including Net-a-Porter, come news for the two design- Dover Street Market, Saks ers, who have spent the past Fifth Avenue, Fivestory and few years using the basement Ikram. First things first, Walker of their Chicago house as a de- aims to build distribution with sign studio and taking a very influential specialty stores hands-on approach to distri- for the brand to be positioned Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana and four other bution. The company has less properly in all markets. “Even defendants were found guilty in Milan Wednesday afternoon than $1 million in sales. though the company has been in the long-running tax evasion case. PAGE 1 “Initially, we tried to ship around, it is just getting off the from Chicago but we use ground. It has the potential to On Thursday, the DFS Group, which is majority owned by New York factories. We start- be an incredibly influential LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, unveiled 10 spaces ed shipping directly from designer label in the U.S. and covering 25,000 square feet at LAX. PAGE 1 Midtown, literally carrying abroad,” Walker said. boxes from factory to factory, Going forward, a portion Karl Lagerfeld’s online game went live Wednesday, giving which is tiring if you are doing of the collection will be made consumers a chance to win free Lagerfeld sunglasses or a really big order,” Peters said. in Japan and the rest will be limited-edition Tokidoki figurines. PAGE 3 “It was pretty unique.” produced in the U.S. Once re- Walker, who has taken on tail distribution is broadened, Mulberry gave specially-made bags to the leaders taking part the role of COTW’s president Walker will zero in on ad- in the G8 summit that took place on June 17 and 18. PAGE 4 and chief executive officer, vertising, launching concept will be spending more time in shops, freestanding stores New York. During a phone in- and e-commerce. All in all, Valentino’s creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have tapped British fashion terview Wednesday from his GEORGE CHINSEE The Dock Group’s input, espe- Los Angeles office, he said his cially the organizational struc- photographer Craig McDean for the fall 2013 men’s “multiplatform company helps Christopher Peters and Shane Gabier ture, should make the daily advertising campaign. PAGE 7 young designers navigate the PHOTO BY grind less so, Gabier said. “A early stages of growth.” Crippen, SAIC. Two of his former students, lot of the pressure has been lifted. A subdued color palette expressed in prints and innovative the sportswear label started by J. Tamara Malas and Michael Walls, We’re still obviously really busy, but fabrics impressed retailers at the Pitti Immagine Uomo Brand cofounder Susie Crippen, is are joining the company full time. now we’re a little more relaxed.” trade show. PAGE MW1 another brand in his portfolio. Habier and Peters borrowed Bound for a week on Nantucket, Thanks to the Dock Group’s a line from the old Johnny Mathis the designers were looking for- Retail analysts, suppliers, competitors and other support, COTW will have 14 or 15 song “Wild Is the Wind” to name ward to catching up with relatives, market observers reacted Wednesday to George Zimmer’s employees instead of three and their company, and initially their playing dominoes, riding bikes, unceremonious and surprising ouster as executive a production and sourcing infra- efforts were project-based. “This swimming, eating good dinners chairman of The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. PAGE MW2 structure that did not exist be- is just something that Chris and I and sleeping a lot. “There’s really fore. “They’ve been doing pretty have felt compelled to do,” Gabier not a lot of temptation out there Gucci will officially unveil its first men’s wear flagship much all of the front-office and said. “Being brought into the to do more than that,” Gabier in Europe on Sunday evening with a party during Men’s back-office themselves,” Walker Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund certain- said. “We really like to travel and Fashion Week. PAGE MW10 said. “I have a very good feel- ly helped. And Ikram [Goldman] move around a lot. Travel is re- ing that once they are relieved has been supersupportive.” ally important to us personally, of some of the day-to-day opera- Goldman hooked up Gabier but I don’t think it has any di- ON WWD.COM tions, they will be more focused and Peters with the stylist Tabitha rect relation to the end product. and energized, and the company Simmons, with whom they have Wherever we are, it’s more about will move a lot smoother.” collaborated for five seasons for the dialogue between us.” MEN’S: Gucci will officially unveil its first men’s wear flagship in Europe on Sunday evening with a party during Men’s Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. BEAUTY BEAT

CORRECTION P&G Prestige Inks McQueen Scent Deal Rachel Tipograph is global director of digital and social YSL Beauté, then a division of ambition for the brand.” He also media at Gap brand. Her title was incorrect in a story on By CYNTHIA MARTENS the Gucci Group. In 2005, the said that designer Burton was page 6, Wednesday. brand introduced the My Queen “chomping at the bit” to get start- MILAN — Days after confirm- scent, but when L’Oréal acquired ed on the fragrance line. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. ing a new beauty licensing deal YSL Beauté in 2008, McQueen’s “We expect Sarah to play a WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. with Stella McCartney, the P&G beauty business did not make the significant role” in fragrance de- COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Prestige division of Procter & cut, and the original fragrances velopment, said Feola, adding the VOLUME 205, NO. 125. THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two Gamble Co. has signed on to de- have since been discontinued. companies had many ideas for additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance velop and market a men’s and “It’s really exciting for us. upcoming projects, but that it was Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, women’s fragrance business for We’ve been taking our time to too soon to discuss specifics or Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, Alexander McQueen. reenter the market, to make sure provide a launch date for the first and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver “We believe it’s probably the we picked the right partner at perfume. The McQueen brand, he Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North most prominent brand that is not the right time,” said Jonathan said, had a “strong equity” and Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. yet playing in the luxury beauty Akeroyd, president and chief consumer base, and “our launch Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or market,” said P&G Prestige vice executive officer of Alexander will reflect that.” Feola also said inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine president Luigi Feola. McQueen, adding: “The brand it was too early to comment on the is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. Founded by the late Lee wasn’t mature enough then, but possibility of other beauty prod- You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt Alexander McQueen in 1992, it’s quite well known that our ucts in the future. of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request the Alexander McQueen fashion business has grown.” P&G Prestige has an array of for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at label is currently part of Kering Noting the network of luxury labels in its fold, includ- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that and designed by Sarah Burton, McQueen retail stores had vastly ing Hugo Boss, Dolce & Gabbana, we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at who has been with the company increased over the last decade Gucci and Lacoste. The addition P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED since 1996 and creative director and that brand awareness was of McCartney and McQueen is ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER since 2010. McQueen’s first foray high, Akeroyd said P&G Prestige part of a larger strategy to main- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR into fragrance came in 2003 with was the perfect licensing part- tain a tight portfolio of high-cali- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A the launch of Kingdom through ner because “they share our ber luxury brands, said Feola. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 3 WWD.COM Weak Traffic, Markdowns Hit H&M which have had a negative impact on both By SAMANTHA CONTI sales and profits in SEK,” the retailer said. Persson added that the second quarter LONDON — Weak traffic, markdowns, cur- had been a period of “intense activity,” with rency headwinds and long-term invest- the opening of nearly 100 stores, including its ments in retail expansion dented second- first South American unit in Santiago, Chile. quarter net profits at Swedish fast-fashion Asked during a conference call whether retailer Hennes & Mauritz. consumers were rejecting specific catego- The company said profits in the three ries, styles or products, the company’s in- months to May 31 sank 10.8 percent to 4.66 vestor relations manager Nils Vinge said billion Swedish kronor, or $700 million, on no. “We are happy with the collections. The the back of broadly flat sales. All figures problem is mostly weaker footfall, due to have been converted at average exchange the colder weather,” said Vinge. rates for the respective periods. He said it was the weather, too, that led The current quarter, however, is off to a to higher markdowns than planned. good start with sales increasing by 14 per- Persson, who was not on the call, added cent in local currencies in the period from in the statement that the company is con- June 1 to 17 compared with the same peri- tinuing its “strong expansion in Asia, where od last year, due to a mix of full-price and we now have 200 stores and where we are The homepage for the Karl Lagerfeld eyewear video game. summer-sale merchandise. now starting to establish our newer brands Shares in the company closed down like COS and Monki.” Wednesday 0.1 percent at 225.10 Swedish kro- The company said that long-term invest- nor, or $34.80, at current exchange. ments are higher this year than last, a dedi- Karl Invites You to Steal His Shades “Although sales remained strong in Asia, cated U.S. e-commerce site would open in his face, achieved by clicking on a overall sales were not satisfactory mainly August and that there was room to grow in By MILES SOCHA fast-moving target. due to the continued challenging situation mature markets such as Europe. Lagerfeld’s video character for the fashion retail industry, as well as During the quarter the company opened PARIS — Karl Lagerfeld is back in a evades grasp with lightning-fast ninja unfavorable weather in March and a couple the first seven stores of its new brand & video game — this time, in the guise moves, and discouraging words ga- of weeks into April in many of our big mar- Other Stories, in cities such as London, of a nimble Tokidoki cartoon, taunt- lore — delivered in his winking style, kets,” said Karl-Johan Persson, the compa- Paris and Milan, while COS will be expand- ing players to try and remove his sun- and his unmistakable voice. ny’s chief executive officer. ing into Turkey and Switzerland. glasses with the click of a mouse. Move too slowly and he’ll tap his As reported last week, sales in the “There is great potential in the grow- The online game went live foot impatiently, or whip out a camera quarter dipped 0.1 percent to 31.64 bil- ing online market. We are looking forward Wednesday, giving consumers a chance and snap photos — all the while spew- lion Swedish kronor, or $4.7 billion, while to launching our online sales in the U.S. in to win free Lagerfeld sunglasses or ing admonishments. sales in local currencies increased by 5 August,” said Persson. “In parallel, we are limited-edition Tokidoki figurines. “ Yo u really need glasses,” goes one. percent. Sales in comparable units, which continuing our work on the global rollout of It’s a monthlong digital initia- “Ah, you finally woke up,” goes includes stores, Web sales and catalogues H&M’s online store, with the aim of adding tive in partnership with Optic 2000, another. in operation for at least a year, decreased several new online countries during 2014. Lagerfeld’s exclusive eyewear dis- The final insult comes if you fail by 4 percent. H&M said that in the first half, net prof- tributor in France, which sells about at the game entirely. “Karl has no H&M said the disparity between sales in it fell 10.6 percent to 7.11 billion SEK, or 100,000 of his signature optical eye- more time for you,” he huffs, tongue- local currencies and reported sales was due $1.07 billion. Sales in the six months from glasses and sunglasses a year. in-cheek. to the negative impact of the stronger Swedish December to May were up 0.9 percent to The 1,200-unit chain boasts a 13 Only French residents can claim krona against most countries’ currencies. 60.03 billion SEK, or $9 billion. Sales in local percent share of the optical retail prizes, but anyone with a computer, “This quarter has been marked by sub- currencies were up 5 percent, while sales in market in France, and said Karl tablet or smartphone can try their stantial negative currency translation effects, comparable units were down 4 percent. Lagerfeld eyewear, produced under luck at jeveuxleslunettesdekarl.com. license by Marchon Eyewear Inc., Developed by the agency Buzzman, sells an above-average ratio of sun- the site also showcases Lagerfeld’s glasses versus optical frames: 52 latest eyewear collections, which can Hue Legwear to Launch in China percent, versus a norm for designer be purchased on the e-store of Optic frames of around 45 percent. 2000, launched in 2012. China, product that’s important to Cue the video game, whose con- Lagerfeld, who is Chanel’s cou- By KARYN MONGET Chinese consumers.” ceit is that the fashion designer is turier and the designer of ready-to- As an example, she singled never seen without his dark glasses wear and fur at Fendi, appeared in KAYSER-ROTH CORP. has en- out python-print leggings, — and good luck plucking them off the game Grand Theft Audio in 2008. tered into a joint partnership which have “great appeal” to with retail powerhouse E-Land Chinese consumers. Group China to launch Hue “The Chinese woman is ad- legwear, leggings and socks in vanced and fashion-forward in Baker Lays Out Goals for HBC China this fall. her taste level in terms of leg- The U.S.-based legwear wear, much more so than the inside Hudson’s Bay’s Queen Street brand will be sold in 15 doors in U.S. consumer….There are a lot By DAVID MOIN flagship in Toronto. The $4 billion China, including shops-in-shop of nuances about the Chinese HBC sees spending $180 million an- in major department stores as customer….She’s crazy about HUDSON’S BAY CO. has some catch- nually on capital expenditures over well as branded Hue boutiques snake prints, laces, and the de- ing up to do. the next five years, joining Macy’s, in shopping malls, beginning in partment and specialty store That was apparent from Richard Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Belk September. The first Hue store consumer in China wears fash- Baker, chief executive officer, who at in a widening field of retailers getting will open in Shanghai, followed ion tights and leggings far more the Toronto-based retailer’s annual capital-intensive. by Beijing, Shenzhen, and than American women do,” ob- shareholders’ meeting Wednesday, Speaking broadly, Baker said the Chengdu, and will offer a wide served Townsend. said the company must elevate pro- company is adopting “a holistic” om- selection of fashion leggings, She further noted that resiz- ductivity, noting that Hudson’s Bay, nichannel approach and that the busi- tights and socks. ing the Hue legwear program at $140 in sales per square foot, and ness must be regarded as more than Julia Townsend, executive for China was essential. Lord & Taylor, at $210 a square foot, just selling commodity items. “We vice president and general man- “We did develop specific siz- lag the North American department believe we are in the entertainment ager at Kayser-Roth, said the ex- A Hue legwear style ing for China. I think we learned store average of $240. business....Customers must be wowed pansion into China will grow the aimed at Chinese from the benchmark of many “It’s been five years since we by renovations, signage, lighting, vi- brand’s global footprint. consumers. other companies that unsuccess- began reinventing Hudson’s Bay and sual merchandising and our service. “It was a natural expansion fully took the same fit and sizing Lord & Taylor,” Baker said. “Our ini- Investment in stores is critical.” With for us. Not only does the Chinese consumer used in the U.S. market to China,” she said. tial goal was to restore the tarnished omnichannel initiatives, Baker said he have an affinity and curiosity for western Hue will rely on its partnership with brands. We have achieved that ob- expects e-commerce to grow to about labels, they are forward thinkers when it E-Land Group China to grow an extensive re- jective. Now the goal is establishing 10 percent of consolidated sales. comes to fashion,” said Townsend. tail network and create a premium shopping both as premier mid-tier department Baker briefly mentioned this Hue has been placing “great emphasis” experience. E-Land Fashion China operates stores in North America.” week’s management shake-up, shift- on international growth over the past several more than 5,000 shops in Mainland China He spelled out strategies to reach ing Bonnie Brooks to vice chairman, years, and the brand is currently sold in Canada, with 42 top brands, including partnerships the goal, citing continued renovations in a low-profile advisory role, and ele- Mexico, Spain, Australia and New Zealand. with Kate Spade, New Balance, Berghaus, and “filling our stores with North vating Liz Rodbell to president of the Townsend said the company’s initiative in the Nike Golf, Guess Jeans and Wrangler. American peer group global brands.” Hudson’s Bay and L&T divisions, suc- Chinese market was validated after conducting A first-year retail sales projection was not He said Hudson’s Bay can carry the ceeding Brooks. Baker cited the “tre- consumer market research with Shanghai-based available, but Townsend said the potential is same brands carried at Saks Fifth mendous work’ the two accomplished Flamingo, a consumer brand consultancy. “huge” for expansion of the Hue brand into Avenue, Macy’s and Kohl’s, and that together, and projects for the future “The brand presence in China will bear China, the world’s second-largest economy. on the merchandising front, “the fu- including Kleinfeld and Topshop. the same DNA — it’s fun, fresh, fashion [prod- Regarding marketing to the Chinese ture opportunities at Hudson’s Bay He suggested renovations paid uct],” said Townsend. “We did a lot of research consumer, plans include an advertising and are huge.” He’s been scouring the off at the Vancouver flagship. It gen- to explore the legwear market in China, what social media campaign, as well as public re- markets for partnerships with brands erated a more than 25 percent sales the potential was for tights and leggings, usage, lations and celebrity partnerships. A high- and retailers, similar to those estab- gain last year, the highest gain of any preferences and consumer patterns. We even profile event is being planned. No further lished with Topshop, which has five location in the chain. The Topshops set up a mock store environment and let con- details were available. locations inside Hudson’s Bay and operating inside Hudson’s Bay, Baker sumers relate to the product….We offered the “Celebrities are very important in China, will open five more this year, and added, represent a “significant pro- same collection of products that are sold in and a celebrity event will be extremely im- with Kleinfeld, which in 2014 will ductivity upgrade for the merchan- the U.S. and created product specifically for portant to the launch,” she noted. open a 20,000-square-foot bridal salon dise categories they displaced.” 4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 MSGM Mary Katrantzou Maxime Simoens Resort 2014 MSGM: MSGM creative director Massimo Giorgetti tempered his girly aesthetic with charming tomboy touches in a colorful resort collection. A laser-cut, short-sleeve sweatshirt was worn over a digital-printed floral shirt and puffy skirt, and there were tough jacket and feminine dress combinations, such as a perfecto paired with a Sixties-inspired A-line shift in neon cotton jacquard.

Mary Katrantzou: For her first resort collection, Mary Katrantzou used her signature prints as a veritable collection of postcards from around the world. Along with her own photographs of high-rise apartment towers in São Paulo, Katrantzou captured snow-capped Swiss Alps, French flower fields, a Japanese bridge, an Italian vineyard, a Chinese fisherman, railway station arcades and so on. The vistas came mashed together in vivid color stories, at times layered with gorgeous embellishments, such as laser- cut Perspex squares placed in the windows of the apartment print, and floral sequins adding dimension to a yellow floral print. Lest the bounty of visual effects turn into a frenzy, Katrantzou delivered it all on relatively clean shapes, such as playsuits, biker jackets, a sweatshirt and dresses with flowy skirts.

Maxime Simoens: The “New Deal” was an apt title for Maxime Simoens’ first pre-collection on two levels — first, because the designer drew inspiration from Roosevelt-era economic policy; second, because Simoens has a new stimulus plan of his own: LVMH recently took a stake in Simoens collection, with Sidney Toledano advising on brand strategy. As for the clothes, graphic patterns were influenced by Thirties’ Art Deco. Otherwise the lineup focused on what Simoens called “cool” daywear

RI — tailored jackets, lean pants and t short, structured dresses — done in

For more MAES powerful, combinations of black, images, see white and “passionate” red. There

DAVIDE was an architectural edge to the look,

WWD.com/ by underscored by the bold colorblocking runway. motifs, but Simoens gave the clothes more breathing room than in previous seasons via a refreshingly relaxed fit. MSGM photo

man, telling amusing — and BAG STARS: More than 1,000 Mary Lai of Marylai New York; incriminating — anecdotes. international applicants Rachel Santos of Dante Robles Fashion scoops “I remember asking Dylan submitted designs to be Design; Maria Teresa Aristeguieta of three years ago why there considered for the seventh MTA Bags, and Franziska Clamer of wasn’t a men’s fashion week,” annual InStyle- and HBD Einmalig, who will all be featured FASHION SUMMIT: Mulberry brand Smythson. German she said. “And that’s about Network-hosted Independent in the September issue of InStyle. added a little levity to the G8 Chancellor Angela Merkel received the most I have contributed Handbag Designer Awards, which — KRISTI GARCED summit in Northern Ireland Mulberry’s Piccadilly, a leather to GQ since I was so violently were held Wednesday night at earlier this week, gifting handbag inspired by the ejected years ago. But it seems the School of Visual Arts Theater CAVALLI HONOR: Milan’s Domus specially made bags to the company’s famous Bayswater as though I’ve been welcomed in New York. The ceremony Academy design and fashion leaders taking part in the event model. All of the bags were back into the fold,” said Emin, this year honored Rafé Totengco school awarded Roberto Cavalli that took place on June 17 and made at Mulberry’s factory in referring to her former stint as a with the Iconoclast with an honorary 18. Leaders, including British Somerset, England, and bore contributing editor at the title. Award. A panel of For more master’s degree Prime Minister David Cameron and the leaders’ initials. “Alex Bilmes [editor of Esquire judges including past scoops, see in fashion President Obama, were no doubt — LORELEI MARFIL and former commissioning Iconoclast recipient management in temporarily distracted from editor at GQ] and I used to Kenneth Cole, Carlos WWD.com recognition of topics such as Syria, tax evasion WICKED WHISPERS: “We didn’t talk have these really long, drunken Falchi, Deborah Lloyd, Ariel his role as an and free-trade agreements by about anything sensible at all; lunches over an afternoon. Foxman, Karen Giberson Italian fashion the Matthew 24 Hour bag. A blagging tickets to Glastonbury, We got back to the office and and more narrowed down the ambassador worldwide. work and overnight bag, the pole dancing, general Dylan cornered us, and asked submissions to five finalists per Following the ceremony, Cavalli Matthew 24 boasts leather and bawdiness,” said Patrick Grant of what thrilling projects we had category, which this year ranged spoke to students and members signature Mulberry hardware, the dinner conversation — at come up with to justify the bill, from Best Handbag in Overall of the public about his career and is part of the brand’s fall his table, at least — at Annabel’s and all we could come up with Style and Design to Best Student highlights and discussed 2013 collection. The question on Tuesday night to mark the was…Celebrity Star Trek with Made Handbag. InStyle.com projects he hopes to undertake remains whether Cameron has end of London Collections: Men. Elton John as Spock,” said Emin. received more than 420,000 votes in the future. In 2012, the already hidden the bag from Hosted by British GQ editor Other guests included David for their online poll, as well as Roberto Cavalli Group saw its his wife, Samantha Cameron, the Dylan Jones and Tracey Emin, the Gandy, Joanna Sykes, Tom Ford, for the audience fan favorite revenues increase 4 percent former creative director and dinner had the cozy, jubilant Richard James, Elizabeth Saltzman, handbag. Winners included on-year to 185 million euros, currently a consultant for rival feeling of a family wedding, with Lulu Kennedy and Stephen Webster. Maria Lamanna of Maria Lamanna or $236.8 million at average Bond Street luxury accessories Emin taking on the role of best — JULIA NEEL Handbags; Carmen Ortiz of LinOza; exchange. — CyNTHIA MARTENS

w20a004b;11.indd 4 6/19/13 8:24 PM 06192013202457 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 5 WWD.COM Dolce, Gabbana Found Guilty Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce {Continued from page one} related to the 2004 sale of the Dolce & the brand to Gado. The lawyers described for the first time since the first hearing on Gabbana and D&G brands to the design- the revenue agency’s demand as “strato- Dec. 3. The reasonings behind her verdict ers’ Luxembourg-based holding com- spheric and unreal.” As the designers do will be deposited with the court in 90 days. pany, Gado Srl. The Italian tax police not own such a sum, as they never received The designers never attended any reportedly consider Gado essentially a it for their brands, said the lawyers, “most of the hearings in the trial and weren’t legal entity used to avoid higher corpo- likely” the agency will “attack the main present at the reading of the verdict, nor rate taxes in Italy. asset in their patrimony, their participa- were Ruella, Alfonso Dolce and Minoni, In April 2011, deeming there was tion in the Dolce & Gabbana company. We who had been fixtures at each hearing. no foundation for a trial, judge Simone fear even to think what the social and eco- After Brambilla exited the courtroom, Luerti dismissed the charges against nomic repercussion of this will be.” one of the defendants’ lawyers, Massimo Dolce and Gabbana, Alfonso Dolce and The designers can appeal the tax com- Dinoia, surrounded by the press, said he Ruella. Milan-based prosecutor Pedio mission’s ruling. was “surprised” by the outcome of this appealed to the Supreme Court, which Earlier Wednesday morning, prosecu- “most paradoxical trial.” Dinoia stressed ruled Wednesday after about six months. tor Laura Pedio, responding to the defen- he will appeal the decision, adding he On Wednesday evening, the designers’ dants’ lawyers closing remarks last week, was confident “in a reversal of the sen- lawyers — Dinoia, Armando Simbari and described the fiscal fraud as “sophisticat- tence.” The defendants have always de- Fortunato Taglioretti — issued a state- ed and well constructed, so complex as to nied all the charges. ment expressing “great satisfaction” that, be insidious.” Pedio asked the judge not Following the verdict, Patelli’s lawyer, for the second time, a judge had deemed to dismiss the issues at trial as merely fis- Fabio Cagnola, told WWD that the ap- there was no case in relation to the sale cal ones. Such “granitic proof cannot be peal cannot take place before about 140 of the brands at a lower value than that ignored in a penal trial,” which should days, also taking into account the court’s estimated by the tax police. They were not only deal with “fake bills from the car summer break. Three judges will preside even more pleased at that decision since repair shop, but with increasingly more over the appeal, which will involve read- the unfaithful tax declaration accusa- complex fiscal engineering,” she said. Prosecutors also requested Alfonso ing the papers already deposited in the tions expired at the end of April after An acquittal would tread on the consti- Dolce and Minoni be sentenced to two case and not a completely new trial with seven years and six months — and as tutional principles of the obligation to tax years in prison, that accountant Patelli testimony. There is then the potential of such Brambilla’s acquittal was a “mani- contribution, she said. “Enough with the be sentenced to three years in prison as one final appeal by either the state or the fest proof of their innocence,” they said. privileges, where the firms in Italy book the “main orchestrator” of the evasion defendants to Italy’s equivalent of the The lawyers reiterated that the over- the costs, and profits are gathered abroad.” scheme, while defendant Antoine Noella Supreme Court, the Corte di Cassazione. all charges were “paradoxical” as the According to the prosecutor, everyone was be absolved for lack of evidence. “Whatever happens, this verdict is not designers were accused of evading the aware of the risks, noting that the design- Dinoia on June 12 had asked effective until after it has passed through payment of taxes “for an amount more ers “knew exactly what was happening, ac- Brambilla for a full acquittal of his cli- the Corte di Cassazione,” explained than double” what they were paid for the tively participating in the operations and ents and to dismiss all the charges be- Cagnola. Asked if the defendants will be brand. The verdict, said the statement, adding their signatures to the contracts.” cause there was no case to proceed. granted probation, the lawyer said Italy’s will “ease the mind of all citizens, who She compared herself to the designers and The decision Wednesday was the lat- legislation allows in this case for a “con- will not be asked to pay taxes for a value said: “It’s as if one day my salary suddenly est chapter in the long and sometimes ditional suspension,” which means that greater than their earnings.” comes from Luxembourg and stops coming strange relationship between the fash- “if no other crime is committed in five According to the lawyers, the fact that from Milan. How can I not notice?” ion world and the Italian tax authorities, years, the original one is annulled. That the designers were found innocent of the In late May, the prosecutors request- both at the federal and local level, which said, a criminal record remains.” one charge is at the same time “clamor- ed that Dolce, Gabbana and Ruella be has ensnared everyone from Giorgio Following investigations that began ous and dramatic” because, they said, the sentenced to two-and-a-half years in Armani to Valentino to Gianfranco Ferré in 2008, initiated by the Guardia di Revenue Agency is proceeding to claim prison for tax evasion. Ruta and Pedio and Gianni Versace. Many of these de- Finanza, an Italian police force under more than 400 million euros, or $535 mil- alleged that the only purpose in sell- signers were found not guilty, while oth- the authority of the national minister lion at current exchange, in unpaid tax ing the Dolce & Gabbana brands to ers settled by paying fines. Dolce and of economy and finance, both designers based on what the agency thinks the de- Luxembourg-based Gado Srl in 2004 was Gabbana are the first Italian designers to were charged with alleged tax evasion signers should have made from the sale of to avoid paying taxes. actually be tried in court for tax evasion. Free People Hits U.K. French Luxury Brands Head to Courts FREE PEOPLE is exporting its bohemian, romantic this month, reiterating vehement de- from case to case, as can the level of sensibility to Europe. By MILES SOCHA nials that it breached market rules. damages awarded, if there are any. The retailer on Monday unveiled a pop-up shop at The company is accused of dis- In the System interview, splashed Selfridges in London that will operate through the sum- PARIS — Never mind runways, the simulating its gradual acquisition over 32 pages, Ghesquière said that mer. At the same time, Free People opened a 700-square- French fashion scene has a new hot of Hermès stock via cash-settled eq- “there was no one helping me on the foot showroom in an old carriage house off the nearby spot: the courtroom. uity swaps between 2001 and 2010. business side” and “I began to feel Marylebone High Street. Krissy Meehan-Mashinsky, man- On Wednesday, Hermès The AMF, which launched its as though I was being sucked dry, aging director of Free People wholesale, said the brand International confirmed it has filed probe in November 2010, is expect- like they wanted to steal my identity plans to open 75 points of sale in the U.K. and is also another lawsuit against LVMH Moët ed to deliver its final decision no while trying to homogenize things.” targeting Italy, Germany, Hennessy Louis Vuitton, escalating its later than July 31. Balenciaga had no comment Spain and France. standoff with the luxury giant, which LVMH-Hermès isn’t the only Wednesday. Ghesquière could not “That’s what this A look from Free People. is its largest nonfamily shareholder. legal battle in town, though. be reached for comment. showroom is for, com- The complaint, filed with the com- France’s other major fashion The number of cases in the Hermès- municating with our mercial court here, aims to annul the group, Kering, is involved in a law- LVMH case has been multiplying. department and spe- equity swaps that allowed LVMH to suit of its own. Earlier this month, LVMH filed cialty stores,” Meehan- acquire its initial 12 percent stake A first hearing is expected in civil charges against an unidenti- Mashinsky said. “This in Hermès using a series of complex September or October at the Tribunal fied manager at Hermès, believed will be the center for financial instruments in accumula- de Grande Instance here pitting to be chief executive officer Patrick communicating with all tions below mandatory disclosure Balenciaga against its former cre- Thomas, who alleged during the our accounts in Europe. thresholds for public companies. ative director, Nicolas Ghesquière, company’s annual meeting that We’re targeting the stores LVMH has subsequently in- who exited last November. LVMH had built up its stake in and distributors through- creased its holding to 22.6 percent. Officials at the civil court de- Hermès in a “fraudulent” way. out Europe we want to An Hermès spokeswoman noted clined to discuss the particulars Hermès filed a criminal com- launch with. This is lead- that it is not contesting share pur- of the case, as only the lawyers in- plaint against LVMH last September, ing up to where we want chases from the free float. volved are privy to them. However, accusing it of insider trading, manip- to be in the future.” An LVMH spokesman declined it is understood Balenciaga is tak- ulating share prices and dissimulat- Free People last year to comment on Hermès’ latest ing action against its former design- ing its investment in the company. launched a Web site in the legal missive. er for remarks made in an interview LVMH in turn filed a suit against country, freepeople.co.uk. But the group controlled by he granted to upstart European Hermès for slander, blackmail and The brand’s sister com- business titan Bernard Arnault fashion magazine System. unfair competition. panies, Urban Outfitters has repeatedly charged Hermès In France, freedom of expression It is understood the commercial and Anthropologie, which with trying to sway an investigation is limited in instances where an em- court will await the finding of the were introduced in the by France’s stock market watch- ployee or former employee besmirch- criminal complaint before turning U.K. in 2004 and 2009, respectively, paved the way for dog, the Autorité des Marchés es or potentially imperils an enter- to its case. Free People’s arrival in Europe. “Because they’re more Financiers, which earlier this prise, allowing them to seek damages. Hermès executives have repeat- retail and e-commerce brands and we’re really focusing month recommended LVMH be At the upcoming hearing, each edly urged LVMH to reduce its share- on wholesale first and our e-commerce site, it’s a little fined 10 million euros, or $13.3 mil- party would have to at least be holding, while LVMH insists it only bit different,” Meehan-Mashinsky said. “We’re pioneering lion at current exchange. represented by an attorney, who has peaceful intentions and wishes to the wholesale arena.” “For more than two years, one would meet before a judge, ex- cooperate with the family-controlled Free People’s pop-up shop sells ready-to-wear and of [Hermès’] executives has been plained Pierre Warin, a counsel maker of Birkin bags and silk scarves. intimate apparel. The brand is collaborating with waging a campaign of denigration with August & Debouzy in Paris. He Last year, Hermès grouped fam- Selfridges on an exclusive capsule collection of embel- and slander against LVMH that is is not involved in the specific case. ily-owned shares into a nonlisted lished party dresses, Meehan-Mashinsky said. extremely detrimental to LVMH’s Speaking in general terms, Warin holding company to gird it against The brand tapped British model Daisy Lowe for a image and reputation,” LVMH vice told WWD it’s difficult to predict further advances by LVMH. worldwide advertising campaign consisting of a short president Pierre Godé told the when a judgment might be handed — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS film and look book. — SHARON EDELSON AMF’s sanctions committee earlier down, since that can vary widely FROM JENNIFER WEIL 6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 DFS Raising the Luxe Experience

{Continued from page one} just about duty-free any more, at least In addition to beauty, DFS brings Philippe Schaus not in the downtown locations to a large 3,500 square feet of wine, food, tobacco extent, but it is about the fact that we are and spirits, 2,500 square feet of watch- trusted to have the right price.” es, 300 square feet of sunglasses and Certainly, as DFS has stepped into the 5,700 square feet of branded boutiques luxury arena, it has had to up its game from Burberry, Hermès, Bottega Veneta, and the expectations are not going to Chloé, Salvatore Ferragamo and Gucci, diminish as competition for consum- which has the largest branded boutique ers from emerging markets increases. at 1,500 square feet. Its goal is to cater to Chinese tourists, similar to the Japanese the more than 10,000 travelers who pass before them, have definitely helped make

through Tom Bradley daily. More than luxury travel retail a lucrative business. 200 brands are available at DFS’ stores in The United Nations World Tourism LAX, and among DFS’ best-selling brands Organization found travelers from China, are Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Gucci the number-one source of tourism spend- and Prada in fashion; Clarins, La Mer, ing in the world, spent $102 billion on Dior and Chanel in beauty, and Bulgari international tourism in 2012, a 40 per-

and Tag Heuer in watches. cent leap from the year before. Schaus During the last five to 10 years, DFS predicts Chinese tourists will continue has pursued a strategy to elevate the look to dominate luxury travel retail for years of its stores, and the Tom Bradley spaces to come, although in a few years he fore- demonstrate the result. Brands are sepa- cast that travelers from countries such as rated and easily identified throughout Turkey, Indonesia and Russia would be- the beauty space, for instance, and their ·· come a real force. displays speak to the brands’ individual “As urbanization grows in China, it identities. The Kiehl’s area resembles one is linked to travel patterns. The more it of the beauty brand’s stores elsewhere is urbanized, the more people are trav- with wooden floors and signature signage eling. There are more and more cities reflecting the brand’s pharmacy heritage; coming on the radar. Look at how many the Benefit area puts its feminine touch airports are going to be built in 20 years. on a pink and yellow counter, and SK-II, They are talking about more than 100 which makes its North American debut at airports in even less than 20 years,” he

DFS in Tom Bradley, is surrounded by il- KEENAN STEFANIE said. “Some people think that a cer- luminated brand imagery. tain maturity has been reached in the “In most of our stores, you see a very Chinese market and that the growth rate

strong focus on the brands’ DNA in PHOTOS BY will not be the same as it has been be- every aspect,” said Schaus. “Each brand fore. That might be true for the general is in its own little world, and I think economy, but as far as the travel retail that’s really how you create legitimacy business is concerned, we believe we for airport retail is that you elevate the We have the most savvy customers in the will have healthy growth rates for the display to such a level where the cus- foreseeable future.” tomer really feels they will get the best Along with Sephora, Le Bon Marché from that brand rather than neutral dis- world at this airport who have very high and Miami Cruiseline, DFS is within play, where it looks more like a selec- LVMH’s Selective Retailing division. That tion of items from brands and not really standards and expectations coming division’s revenues last year rose about the full brand presentation.” 22 percent to nearly 7.9 billion euros, or Travel retail is different from luxury from Asia, Europe and other places. almost $10.5 billion at current exchange, retail in other circumstances since it has and its profits from recurring operations to serve the travelers’ needs. Trying on — PHILIPPE SCHAUS, DFS advanced 19 percent to 854 million euros, ready-to-wear is not practical in airports or $1.13 billion at current exchange. where time is of the essence, so acces- “The company is doing very well. It is sories fuel the fashion business. Schaus at the Galleria units isn’t duty-free. At away “from a value proposition to becom- at this stage very much focused on Asian also explained that aisles are wide in the Tom Bradley, the storefront says “Los ing the endorser of a reputable institu- travelers from all the Asian countries, stores to make room for luggage, and the Angeles” and has a localized logo with tion in the world of travel retail. It is the of course, with the growth coming from cashiers are highly visible in order for the Theme Building at LAX and a palm cherry on the cake. The cake has been Chinese travelers. We are equilibrated customers to make quick transactions tree. At John F. Kennedy International done. The stores today are very different in terms of [revenues from] downtown and head to their gates. Airport, the logo features the Statue of than what they were 10 years ago and, stores and airport stores,” said Schaus. “In an airport, it’s typically all about Liberty, and the DFS logo at the San in the last two years, we have massively He added that sales are roughly evenly convenience, rapidity, easiness and du- Francisco International Airport will continued to upgrade them. We are nam- divided as well between DFS’ four pillar rability. These are heavy-duty floors,” have a cable car. “Duty free is part of ing what we have become rather than categories of food, wine and spirits, fash- said Schaus, while testing the floors their [shoppers’] experience of the sometimes you name something and then ion, watches and jewelry and beauty. with the soles of his shoes. “Within these city, so you want them to know that ex- change it,” he said. ·· High-volume locations for DFS are in constraints, what we try to do is create perience is really tied into travel,” ex- Customers have already recognized Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore, Hawaii a luxurious, friendly, very bright ambi- plained Polly Nelson, DFS’ managing that DFS isn’t only about duty-free shop- and Los Angeles. Further building upon ance where the customer will feel like director for North America. ping, according to Schaus. He stressed the company’s Pacific Rim strength, Hong they are not in an airport, but a high-end DFS Galleria will be getting a new they shop its stores for the breadth of the Kong International Airport awarded DFS boutique or high-end department store.” name this September, which DFS de- merchandise, the service, the ease of the a contract for three major concessions As DFS tries to make a mark outside clined to disclose now because it will shopping setup that enables browsing last year. Gallerias have been DFS’ prin- of its exemption from duties or taxes, be launched with an event at a Galleria of various brands and DFS’ trustworthi- cipal growth vehicle, and it opened one it is changing logos at North American location in Hawaii’s Waikiki. DFS will ness. Counterfeit goods are a constant Galleria last year in Hong Kong, but has locations and rebranding its down- play less of a role in the name and brand- worry for Asian tourists, and they under- no Galleria openings planned this year. town DFS Galleria concept, which was ing of the Galleria locations and become stand that they won’t get those at DFS. It is rumored that DFS will be opening started in 1995 in Gaum to capture sales what Schaus described as an “endorser” Savings are not paramount on shoppers’ down the line in Europe. DFS would not from travelers when they are outside of the concept rather than the name it- minds, but Schaus said, “It is more about comment on the rumor. Over the next of airports. Most of the business today self. The rationale is to solidify the move fair pricing than best pricing. It is not three or four years, Schaus did say that DFS will be expanding each one of its Galleria locations. Revamps at the air- ports will be more frequent than new DFS airport openings, and San Francisco and JFK are getting upgraded. Worldwide, DFS has 420 locations selling 700 brands across 10 countries and three continents. “There will be other airports, but it is not the objective of DFS to open many more airports in the next few years. We want to do it in a very selective way. We want to go to only those places where we can elevate the airport and the offer- ing in a way which works with the cus- tomer that travels there. It will be selec- tive development,” said Schaus. “On the Galleria side, it is the same story, we will be very selective. We look at the places where we see we can bring something Shops in the new LAX space. to the market, where somehow what we have is not yet present.” 2.5x7 (right)

WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 7 WWD.COM MeMo pad Coach to Open Spain Flagship MCDEAN’S TURN: Valentino’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have tapped british By aleXaNDRa steigRaD fashion photographer Craig McDean for the brand’s fall 2013 men’s DesPite tHe volatile economy in spain, advertising campaign. Coach inc. is gearing up to open its first shot in Paris at the Hotel salomon flagship in madrid this November. de Rothschild, the images feature located in salamanca, a district lik- model Nicolas Ripoll “as a Roman ened to the Champs-elysées in Paris or Fifth avenue in New york, the new 3,000-square-foot store marks the brand’s second location in the city. Coach, which entered the spanish market in october 2010 through a partner- ship with el Corte inglés, operates shops- in-shop in barcelona, madrid, marbella and Valencia. according to ian bickley, president of Coach international, the brand, which will buy back the remainder of its interest A sketch of Gisele Bündchen from el Corte this month, has developed a by Karl Lagerfeld. strong following in spain, despite the ail- An image from Valentino’s fall campaign. ing economy there. of the FiFa Confederations Cup, and “there’s no doubt that the economic actor immersed in an antonioni also features Yohji Yamamoto musing on backdrop in spain has been quite tough,” atmosphere inside a classical French sport and patriotism. — MILES SOCHA bickley told WWD. “We entered the mar- environment,” Chiuri said. ket in 2010, and we’ve been building a During the upcoming milan men’s ACROSS THE OCEAN: saks Fifth avenue strong following with local consumers fashion week, the windows of the has teamed up with the london since. We see the brand resonating. We’ve Valentino flagship stores on Via College of Fashion to offer one student really succeeded in building fashion cred- montenapoleone will be decorated a 16-week paid internship to work on ibility with influencers in spain, such as with images of the advertising its private-label footwear collection. Princess letizia of asturias.” campaign, which will break in beginning in march, students were although bickley declined to quantify international publications on June 26, invited to submit up to eight original that success numerically, he did note that when the Roman fashion house will designs and one prototype, which comparable-store sales in spain have unveil its spring 2014 men’s collection would be reviewed by the college and been positive during the slowdown. Prince Felipe of Asturias with his wife, in Paris. — ALESSANDRA TURRA then submitted to a committee at the For Coach, the space will give it the op- Princess Letizia, who is carrying a Coach store headed by Elizabeth Kanfer, senior portunity to “express” its DNa by show- Madison satchel. FOR KICKS: if model Gisele Bündchen fashion director of accessories; Cody casing both men’s and women’s lifestyle ever played soccer for her homeland Kondo, omnichannel group senior vice collections, which includes shoes, appar- of brazil, her jersey would carry the president and general merchandise el, handbags and jewelry, the exec said. “We really see a great growth oppor- number “1.” at least that’s how Karl manager of shoes, handbags, jewelry Designed by the Coach architecture tunity in europe for Coach,” bickley of- Lagerfeld sees things in a series of witty and soft accessories, and Dayna Ziegler, group, the store, which is located at fered, adding that the brand is making sketches he prepared for the latest divisional merchandise manager serrano 22, will retain the building’s his- investments in its team, stores and its in- issue of german soccer-meets-fashion and vice president of shoes. the toric details, such as original ornate ceil- frastructure there. magazine sepp. winner will be selected on June 22, ings, plaster columns and marble floors. even though the economy in europe the designer, who has a four- and that student will be offered an inside, shoppers will find a women’s has seen better days, Coach’s focus on the season collaboration with brazilian internship starting in January 2014 shoe salon and a boutiquelike jewelry region is linked to high tourism there. jelly-shoe giant melissa, sketched one as well as a cash gift. the association area. there will also be a men’s area that “if we think about key cities, we are fo- real-life brazilian soccer star naked — with the london College of Fashion will feature an assortment of bags, small cusing on Paris and on london,” bickley clutching a ball for modesty’s sake — is new this year, but the retailer hires leather goods, accessories and outerwear. said, noting that the brand already has a and another sitting cross-legged atop approximately 85 students each year an leD screen for digital displays will flagship in london, but not yet in Paris. an oscar Neimeyer building. through its University Relations complement the white and black lacquer “Paris is the place with the largest tourist the issue came out over the program, most of whom are in buying millwork along with the stone flooring population in europe. We’ve earmarked weekend, timed coincide with the start and planning. — JEAN E. PALMIERI and industrial-inspired furnishings. Paris, milan and munich.”

UJA Recognizes 3 at Spring Gala a 200-plus crowd including Nick By RosemaRy FeitelbeRg graham, gilbert Harrison, g-iii apparel group’s morris goldfarb, NeW yoRK — the UJa-Federation tharanco lifestyles’ michael setola of New york’s Fashion Division hon- and Destination Xl group’s David For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. ored mmg’s allan ellinger, Randa levin helped raise $425,000 at the accessories’ mel goldfeder and JJP event, held at the Waldorf-astoria. advisory’s John Pomerantz tuesday goldfeder told the crowd, “For me night at its annual spring reception. not to give back or pay back would During their remarks, each execu- be a crime. if it were not for the UJa- Spaces tive emphasized their philanthropic ef- Federation, i would not be standing forts instead of their professional ones. here. in fact, if it were not for the COMMERCIAL ellinger was celebrated for chairing UJa-Federation, i wouldn’t be stand- REAL ESTATE Fashion Delivers in 2005 in the wake ing at all,” goldfeder said. “in 1954, i of Hurricane Katrina, which has since contracted polio and was told i would New York Embroidery Studio Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking donated more than $175 million worth never walk again.” novelty embellishments NYC, China & India of products to those in need, including after being released from the hos- 212-971-9101 [email protected] people trying to reenter the workforce. pital, he learned about the Jewish Showrooms & Lofts PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ellinger said, “i believe each of us has Community House in bensonhurst, BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS PRODUCTIONS a responsibility to leave our space and N.y., and spent every afternoon there Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Full service shop to the trade. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 To subscribe, visit our website time better than we found it.” doing physical therapy. “as you can see, the doctor was wrong. if you think www.wwd.com/subscribenow about it, if there was no UJa there or call 800.289.0273 would be no JCH because the UJa funded better than 50 percent of what was needed. “ in introducing Pomerantz, whom he has shared office space with for the past 10 years, abbey Doneger said, “When it comes to giving, John says, ‘if it doesn’t hurt, if you don’t really feel (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] it, then it’s not really charity.’” Next year’s honorees will include Mel Goldfeder, John Pomerantz simon Property’s David simon and and Allan Ellinger. lifetime achievement award winner

photo by michael priest photo by larry leeds.

w20a007a;13.indd 7 6/19/13 8:29 PM 06192013202958 8 WWD THURSDAY, jUne 20, 2013 WWD.COM

will contain a gallery where Bäumer will display his col- lections, starting with a selec- Bäumer’s New Retail Mansion tion of his 150 photos of the this month, offers a view of the (now closed for renovation) and tal-like paper shards to display Vendôme column, taken from By MIlES SoCha napoleon-topped bronze column boutiques by almost every major rings, necklaces, bangles and ear- 1850 right up to modern times. through a double-height window jeweler under the sun — means rings, the boutique marks a big Up a striking mirrored stair- ParIS — “It’s a very special lo- in the central atrium, while rear daylight pours onto Bäumer’s step for Bäumer, who had sold his case is a private dining room cation for someone who loves windows look out onto the court- creations. They are displayed in collections from a third-floor loca- and kitchen for entertaining cli- jewelry,” lorenz Bäumer said yard of the hôtel d’ Évreux, one cubic niches clustered on walls, tion across the square since 1995. ents, friends and editors. about his new 4,300-square-foot of the most storied mansions in or columnar glass cases inspired “It was time to take it to the his showcase may also ap- boutique at 19 Place Vendôme. the French capital. by structures that Bäumer, an en- next level,” he said, projecting peal to independent-minded The corner unit, which The unit’s double exposure — gineer by training, once spied in the unit should bring a 30 percent shoppers weary of big brands. opened to the public earlier steps away from the ritz hotel a nuclear facility. bump to revenues, which last “We’re not part of a group, Bäumer, in concert with archi- year totaled 3.8 million euros, or we’re fully independent and we’re tect anthony Bechu and interiors $5 million at average exchange. not everywhere,” he said, seated Views of the new boutique. firm Volume aBC, dressed the Bäumer said it took three at a leather-topped table in his of- boutique in an array of neutrals, years to secure the space, in- fice, at which he can receive elite from cream to taupe to cocoa. cluding an upper level that clients to discuss bespoke designs. While resolutely modern, a was previously residential. The “It becomes more personal.” foil to the 18th-century exterior, ground floor had no previous re- Bäumer expanded his product the boutique’s curved shapes — tail occupant and had historical- range to fill the rambling store including long, oval tables that ly been used to house carriages. and to anticipate the needs of wink to Bäumer’s passion for The high-profile location will walk-in traffic. he extended the surfing — and subtle textures expose Bäumer’s name and his price range in both directions, exalt rather than overwhelm designs to a broader range of with accessible pieces starting the jewelry. The designer, whose jewelry aficionados, including at around 1,000 euros, or $1,320 favorite themes include nature, those who might have been too at current exchange, and run- architecture and poetry, noted intimidated to be buzzed into ning up into six and seven figures the palette goes well with white, his previous sale salons. for special orders incorporating yellow or pink gold. Ye t he plans to preserve the exceptional stones, of which he With its three windows personal, exclusive approach. plans to use more, including an dressed in dark purple and crys- a separate section of the store emerald-cut 10-karat diamond. Bäumer said he would con- tinue to travel with his collections to meet with clients, with stops including new York, london, Geneva, Shanghai and hong Kong. Bäumer also designs fine jewelry for louis Vuitton, whose first freestanding jewelry bou- tique is a stone’s throw away at 23 Place Vendôme. In october, Bäumer ap- pointed Cristina Egal as man- aging director, a new post, in anticipation of the retail ven- ture. Previously, Egal operated a communications agency with DOMINIQUE MAITRE

BY such clients as BnP Paribas, Sodexo, Servair and Fondation

PHOTOS Claude Pompidou.

Saks Says Aloha to Hawaii Revlon’s Steven Berns Resigns Post SaKS FIFTh aVEnUE, which has assets of Queen Emma land rEVlon InC.’S chief finan- nancial officer until a suc- a penalty of $850,000 with- been steadily closing stores, has support The Queen’s Medical cial officer has resigned. cessor is named. out admitting or denying decided to open one in hawaii. Center and its community initia- Steven Berns, who had revlon said that Berns’ de- the findings, according to Saks will anchor International tives including the upcoming open- served as executive vice parture is not related to “any the agency. Market Place in honolulu. The store, ing of The Queen’s Medical Center president and cfo of revlon issue or concern with the The SEC said that in Saks’ first in hawaii, is expected to — West o’ahu. In 1885, Queen since 2009, has resigned, ef- company’s accounting, finan- 2009, during a voluntary open in 2016. Saks Inc. operates a Saks Emma of hawaii bestowed land to fective immediately, to ac- cial reporting or internal con- exchange offer intended to off 5th outlet in Waipahu, hawaii. The Queen’s hospital. cept the position of execu- trol over financial reporting.” pay down debt to controlling The store was announced jointly over the last decade, 20 Saks lo- tive vice president and cfo on June 13, the Securities shareholder Macandrews & by Queen Emma land Co., owner cations have been closed, including of the Tribune Company. and Exchange Commission Forbes, revlon engaged in of the property; Taubman Centers 12 in the last three years, bringing Jessica Graziano, revlon’s charged revlon with mis- “ring fencing” that deprived Inc., the developer, and CoastWood the store count down to 42. By the senior vice president, cor- leading shareholders during its independent board mem- Capital Group llC, an investor in beginning of 2014, the count will porate controller and chief a “going-private transaction.” bers from knowing critical the project. The shopping center is fall further to 40 locations. accounting officer, will serve revlon agreed to settle information. being revitalized.  —DaviDMoin as the interim principal fi- the SEC’s charges and pay  —MollyPrior

Joe Fresh has room to grow downtown, on the Upper West Joe Fresh to Open Unit in SoHo Side and in “one or two neighborhoods where a exclusive illustrated T-shirts store will be a leather real estate opportunity By Sharon EdElSon that will be carried at Joe collection from the presents itself,” said Fresh in Soho for a limited runway. “We did some Mimran, adding that nEW YorK — Joseph Mimran time. The Paris-inspired Ts very special one-of-a- he’d be satisfied with nine has a passion for art and fashion. were originally designed by kind pieces,” Mimran said, or 10 units in new York. The Joe Fresh founder abelow for the Joe Fresh fall referring to a biker jacket, Joe Fresh is carried in 700 in September will combine runway show. “We will build leather jacket embellished J.C. Penney stores in the U.S. both loves at the brand’s on Josh’s T-shirts,” a spokes- with heavy studs and zip- and 300 in-store shops at loblaw fifth Manhattan store, a woman said. pered white pebbled leather Superstores. There are 14 free- 10,000-square-foot flagship at “I love Josh’s work,” Mimran skirt. “It’s very out-of-the-box standing stores in Canada. 462 Broadway and Grand Street added. “The T-shirts are our for us. We decided it was time “We’re building a brand,” in Soho. Mimran said he was nod to our connection to art for us to step out and do some Mimran said. “[downtown attracted to the former daffy’s and our constant desire to bring things that are more” edgy Manhattan] is a really important store by the columns and tin artists into our fashion world.” and unexpected. market,” he noted, referring to ceiling and history embedded Joe Fresh last month provided “Soho is a more casual and properties such as Brookfield in the walls of the cast iron art- free shuttle bus service from fashion-oriented market with a Place and the World Trade ist’s loft space. its store at 110 Fifth avenue to much edgier customer, lots of Center. “We haven’t acted on The store will have an art the Frieze new York art Fair on students and more experimen- anything yet. It would be a high component. new Yo r k artist randall’s Island. tation,” Mimran said of the priority if we were to open an Joshua abelow designed two also exclusive to the Soho neighborhood. An exclusive Joe Fresh T-shirt. additional store.”

w20a008a;6.indd 8 6/19/13 8:35 PM 06192013203614 MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: A ‘C’ for the star of ‘Z’ Men’s Wearhouse Brad Pitt’s all-black ensemble founder George would have been better off left Zimmer is out at the for dead. Page MW11 firm. Page MW2

June 20, 2013

REPORT FROM FLORENCE Pitti Uomo Buyers Upbeat on Luxury Key spring trends include prints and sober colors. by PAULINE SZMYDKE, ALESSANDRA TURRA and GORDON SORLINI

FLORENCE — As temperatures soared out- side, the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show kept it cool with an eclectic mix of sports- wear and tailoring elements. An unusually subdued color palette expressed in prints and innovative fabrics impressed retailers, who were also hot about the prospects for the men’s wear business. “Prints are very strong and very fancy this season,” observed Hirofumi Kurino, chief creative adviser of United Arrows, noting that they were a good addition to the upper market. “They are seen not only on shirts, but on jackets and trousers, and they sell very well. In Japan, prints were already in demand two to three years ago. It was about time that Europe and the U.S. follow suit.” Kurino pointed to the comic prints at Gitman Vintage as among the highlights, but said “the most advanced trend is dark color.” “It’s very refreshing to see black being used for summer. Not the 1990s black-black, but made contemporary in lighter shades on linen or cotton with washed effects,” he said. “Colors are a lot more subtle this sea- son,” agreed Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager at Printemps. “This along with more fitted silhouettes, hidden details and a move away from logos, adds more chic to the collections….We also see a lot of jackets worn with T-shirts instead of shirts for a more casual attitude.” Take Camoshita, for example. The Japanese up-and-coming brand designed by United Arrows’ Yasuto Kamoshita struck a contemporary note between luxe Generation and casual and scooped the Pitti Uomo Award 2013, collecting laurels for its unique print and textile blends. Channeling Fifties and Sixties American jazz culture, Camoshita present- Next ed a series of casual suits in various shades of blue, blue-gray, rich green and warm brown, from custom-made cotton, featuring Gaia Trussardi will unveil her toned-down graphic prints and relief tex- tures. While bottoms were loose featuring first collection on Sunday in Milan elastic waistbands, tops were more struc- after taking the design reigns tured through fitted shoulders. “There is not much need any more for of her family label. Embracing a sophisticated business suits,” explained sophisticated athletic sensibility, the Kamoshita. “Men prefer lighter, more ca- sual versions which they can wear on a young designer was inspired by the number of occasions, while traveling, going masculine image of the Trussardi man to the beach or to a restaurant.“ Eric Jennings, vice president and fash- from the Eighties. In keeping with the ion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, said: fashion house’s leather heritage, the spring “What impressed me right away at Pitti this season was the plethora of new brands collection showcases luxury outerwear, and the more youthful vibe at the show. such as this car coat worn with rolled There seems to be a lot of excitement and energy despite the stifling heat.” canvas Bermuda shorts. For more on For the brand’s debut at the fair, Antonio Trussardi’s new chapter, see page MW10. Azzuolo, creative director of Eidos, the new PAVESI GIOVANNA label launched by Isaia, injected a contem- porary feel into classic men’s staples, which

PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW6} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 Men’s Week Zimmer’s Ouster Leaves Industry Guessing by ARNOLD J. KARR market sources theorized that di- pany is currently heading,” he said. visions between Zimmer and the “Instead of fostering the kind of dia- GEORGE ZIMMER might have board had become so severe that logue in the boardroom that has, in overstayed his welcome at the they were about to spill over in full part, contributed to our success, the company he led for nearly 40 years. view at the annual meeting, possi- board has inappropriately chosen to That’s how retail analysts, sup- bly prompting the move just hours silence my concerns by terminating pliers, competitors and other mar- before it was scheduled to start at me as an executive officer.” ket observers reacted Wednesday to 11 a.m. Pacific time at the compa- He and Douglas Ewert, presi- Zimmer’s unceremonious and sur- ny’s headquarters in Fremont, Calif. dent and ceo of M W, declined to dis- prising ouster as executive chair- Men’s Wearhouse shocked retail cuss the developments with WWD. man of The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. observers Wednesday with news Zimmer’s dual status as com- on the morning of the company’s an- that it had “terminated” Zimmer, pany pitchman and its largest nual meeting, which was postponed who was to stand for reelection noninstitutional shareholder, with and has yet to be rescheduled. as a director at the meeting. “The control of about 3.5 percent of the Zimmer, who founded the board expects to discuss with Mr. company’s stock through a series $2.5 billion company in 1973 and Zimmer the extent, if any, and of family trusts, is likely to make George Zimmer stepped down as chief executive of- terms of his ongoing relationship detente difficult. The company has ficer in June 2011, had stayed on as with the company,” the firm said. paid Zimmer a $10,000 licensing fee which shed 43 cents, or 1.2 percent, next largest competitor, Jos. A. Bank executive chairman and a director. Identified only as the com- for his marketing and promotional to close Wednesday at $37.04, 4 per- Clothiers Inc., MW weathered a pro- Ye t his disengagement from day- pany’s founder, Zimmer shot back services as an employee, but the cent below the 52-week high of $38.59 motional first quarter well enough to-day oversight of the company had with a statement of his own later agreement calls for the fee to move reached on Sept. 7. By comparison, to boost profits 23.1 percent, to $33.1 been decidedly incomplete. He re- Wednesday morning. It paid a one- up to $250,000 a year for a period of it closed, after adjustments for divi- million on a 5.1 percent sales in- mained a presence on the compa- sentence tribute to the firm’s em- four years if and when he ceases to dends, at $30.08 on June 15, 2011, the crease to $616.5 million. ny’s quarterly conference calls with ployees and customers for building be an employee for any reason. day Ewert succeeded Zimmer as ceo. According to the company’s analysts as well as the bearded face the company, the largest U.S.-based “Is the company going to want Ewert, a Macy’s veteran who proxy, Zimmer earned about $2 mil- and baritone voice of the company men’s wear chain with controlling to pay $1 million to put its former was president and chief operating lion as chairman last year — $1 mil- in radio, television and print com- market share in sales of men’s tai- chairman on the air after such a officer before succeeding Zimmer lion in salary, $100,000 in bonuses mercials that resolved with the pop- lored clothing and rentals of tuxedos. public dispute? It just doesn’t seem as ceo, has been described as “me- and nearly $900,000 in other com- ular tag line, “You’re going to like It also made plain his displea- likely, or even smart,” noted one fi- thodical” in his two years at the pensation, including nearly $523,000 the way you look. I guarantee it.” sure with the company’s current nancial source. company’s helm, although the pace for personal use of the corporate But comments from the compa- direction — and his disinclination The separation of Zimmer and of change has recently accelerated. aircraft. Ewert’s total compensation ny and Zimmer himself Wednesday to keep it to himself. the company that, in many con- In March, the company said was larger, at $2.1 million, but his sal- suggest that the former ceo didn’t “Over the past several months, I sumers’ eyes, is virtually synony- it had retained Jeffries & Co. to ary a smaller $617,000. like the way things were looking have expressed my concerns to the mous with him suggests a board- evaluate strategic options for its Zimmer, 64, has emerged in recent at the company he started. Several board about the direction the com- room tension that many have struggling K&G division, which years as something of a cult figure, sensed but of which there has subsequently saw comparable- and not only because of his ubiquitous been little concrete evidence. store sales decline 6.7 percent in presence on television. The New York While the men’s wear indus- the first quarter ended May 4. native is known to have a spiritual bent try and Wall Street sought expla- Less material to financial results and succeeded in securing Deepak nations for the surprising split, but perhaps more indicative of any Chopra a position on MW’s board. He Richard Jaffe, analyst at Stifel boardroom contentiousness, the personally donated $50,000 to the un- Nicolaus, put into a research note company in December named de- successful 2010 initiative to legalize sentiments heard frequently in the signer Joseph Abboud, fresh from marijuana in California and eschewed market Wednesday. his stint as president and chief the practice of putting job applicants “We believe that despite creative officer of HMX Group, as through criminal background checks. Zimmer’s planned transition to chief creative director and has been Consumers learning of his oust- a smaller role at the company, he positioning him as the chain’s style er Wednesday were in some cases had difficulty letting go of the reins authority with videos and question- angered by the news. “We’ll never and the leadership of the busi- and-answer content on its Web site. shop at Men’s Wearhouse again,” ness,” he wrote. “We believe that However, Zimmer’s “Ask George” wrote one on Facebook. Another, this led to a conflict with the board page, on which consumers can direct posting on a Yahoo message board and his subsequent termination.” comments and questions to the chain’s in a more fanciful vein, wondered Jaffe noted that some of the fric- founder, remained on the Web site if the company was backing away tion between Zimmer and the board Wednesday following news of his exit. from its founder because his name might be attributable to the found- While beset with the same pro- might be confused with that of er’s continuing role as the com- motional pressures as other apparel George Zimmerman, whose trial pany’s on-air spokesman. “The use retailers, MW is hardly a distressed on charges of murdering Trayvon of Zimmer as spokesperson has, co- enterprise. Last year, profits grew Martin recently began in Florida. incidentally, been under review as 9.2 percent, to $131.7 million, as In industry circles, the reaction management has been evaluating total revenues rose 4.4 percent to was one of near shock. “I thought it his effectiveness, particularly with $2.49 billion. Comps were up 4.8 and was a typo when I read it,” said one Men’s Wearhouse revenues the Millennial consumer,” he said. 1.5 percent, respectively, at Men’s men’s wear supplier. reached $2.49 billion last year. Jaffe reiterated Stifel’s “buy” Wearhouse and Moores stores while — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS rating on Men’s Wearhouse’s stock, down 4.3 percent at K&G. Unlike its FROM JEAN E. PALMIERI Greats Footwear to Launch via E-commerce by DAVID LIPKE High Peaks Venture Partners and NFL player The Royale is the second available style, Deliveries will be fulfilled by a third- Adrian Wilson of the New England Patriots. an upscale take on the Sixties tennis sneaker party service with warehouses in California, THE DIRECT-TO-CONSUMER efficiencies of The company has tapped Nickelson Wooster based on the classic Adidas Stan Smith sil- Pennsylvania and Canada. Greats will only e-commerce have become the go-to business as “stylist in residence” and a member of its ad- houette. Priced at $99, ship to the U.S. and model of many a fashion start-up. Following visory board. Wooster exited his role as senior the shoe is made from Canada at launch, with in the well-trod footsteps of companies like vice president of product development and de- deerskin and lined in international deliveries Everlane, Flint & Tinder and Harry’s shav- sign of J.C. Penney Co. Inc. earlier this year. calfskin leather, with a coming at a later date. ing products comes Greats, a new men’s foot- The initial launch at Greatsbrand.com decorative felted quarter Babenzien has been wear concept that launches in August. will offer two sneaker styles, each in three panel on the side. ceo of Boast since last Founded by two footwear industry veterans, color options. The Wilson, priced at $59, is Buscemi likened year, prior to which he Jon Buscemi and Ryan Babenzien, the compa- a low-top retro basketball sneaker in cot- the look and qual- was global director of ny will offer classic shoe styles, beginning with ton canvas based on the silhouette of the ity of the Royale to lifestyle marketing at retro-looking sneakers, with high production Converse Chuck Taylor shoe, available in similar versions from K-Swiss from 2008 to values and accessible prices. “The footwear in- red, white or blue. “We’ll be working on the higher-priced brands 2011. Earlier, he was di- dustry is incredibly inefficient. By disrupting most classic men’s sneaker silhouettes and like Common Projects, rector of entertainment the traditional retail and e-commerce model, reinterpreting them in a hyper-relevant Buttero and Visvim. marketing at Puma from Greats will be able to make a premium-quality way,” explained Buscemi. Greats will expand 2005 to 2008. shoe and offer it to the consumer at a much The Wilson is actually priced higher than into a range of casual Buscemi was co- lower price,” said Babenzien, who has been the basic version of the Converse Chuck Taylor and dress shoe styles founder and chief the chief executive officer of tennis apparel All Star, which starts at $50. The price of the down the road, with marketing officer be- maker Boast since last year, but is stepping Wilson is reflected in premium materials and some product made in The Royale sneaker. ginning in 2006 at Los down from that position this month. construction, such as a synthetic pigskin foot Italy, which will push Angeles-based Gourmet Apart from its founders’ own seed money, bed, leather toe cap and an innovative elastic up prices. Currently, the product is manu- Footwear, where he remains a minority Greats has been funded by a small group of shoelace with a toggle closure that eliminates factured in León, Mexico, an emerging cen- owner. Earlier in his career, he was a men’s angel investors, including New York-based the need to tie your shoes, said Babenzien. ter of shoe production. category director at DC Shoes.

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 Men’s Week Haspel to Relaunch VIEWPOINT With Shipley, Halmos

* by Men Are the New Women JEAN E. PALMIERI HASPEL IS PREPARING for its reemergence. After a year’s hiatus, the venerable men’s VISIT WWD.COM Editor’s Note: Think Tank is a HAVE A COMMENT? wear brand, which got its start in 1909, will be periodic column written by industry AND OFFER YOUR POINT OF VIEW. THINKTANK relaunched for spring. It is being produced in- leaders and other critical thinkers. house by descendants of founder Joseph Haspel, Today’s column is written by Nick BY NICK GRAHAM who have brought CFDA-winning designers Jeff Graham, chief executive of NGO Inc. Halmos and Sam Shipley of the brand Shipley & and founder of Joe Boxer. Halmos on board to design the collection. up with style), the opportunity could The brand is being managed by Thomas be significant. An increase of 10 per- Wallis, an industry veteran whose résumé IN AN ELEVATOR in the Portland cent or 20 percent would be remark- includes stints at GFT USA Corp., Marzotto Hilton last month, a very normal- able, and in some ways it’s already and brands such as CP Company and looking guy asked me where I happening. As noted in the New Emanuel Ungaro. bought my polka dot silk scarf. He York Times last December: “Men’s “It’s an aggressive plan, but we wouldn’t looked like he might have been suit sales will be up 10 percent this have jumped in if we weren’t confident that in town for a medical device con- year, and sports jacket sales will be it was going to work,” said Laurie Haspel vention or, being Portland, the up 11 percent, while women’s ready- Aronson, president and the fourth generation National Chainsaw Forum. He went to-wear sales remain flat.” to run the family-owned business. on to say that he’d been thinking It’s not that men are necessarily The label had been licensed to Neema about getting a scarf like the one I more comfortable shopping online; Clothing, but that company wound down its was wearing, and wanted to know maybe they are finding more fash- branded business and sold its inventory to where he could buy one. I said that ion there. It’s pretty hard for most the Samsung Group in late 2011. The Haspel I had bought it in New York, so I men to find contemporary apparel license was then assigned to Blue Lion, a gave him my e-mail and told him in the brick-and-mortar space, un- company operated by Jeffrey Ammeen, the I would find him one and send it. less they live in large urban areas. son of former Neema chief executive offi- Within three minutes I received his THOMAS IANNACCONE When I walk the men’s floors of cer James Ammeen, to handle the sales and e-mail and it read, “Met you at the some stores, I feel like I am in a marketing for Neema’s licensed businesses,

Hilton. Help me dress better.” PHOTO BY time-warped Valium-induced haze; which included Haspel. Aronson said that It’s just one in a series of encoun- style that is hermetically sealed in relationship ended at the end of 2012. ters that have happened to me over a world of golden Labradors and “We brought Tom in to manage the brand, the last several months. All over Nick Graham is the CEO of NGO Inc, a company that perfectly manicured mansions that and he has so many great ideas,” she said. the country I somehow find myself will produce, license and distribute men’s apparel and haven’t yet had the chance to (and “He sees where the potential lies, and we’ve engaged in conversations with men accessories under the Nick Graham brand starting may not) be passed down to the been working behind the scenes to get every- who would never normally discuss in 2014. He is also the Founder and former Chief Post-Prep generation. thing started.” things like patterns, color or cut, Underpants Officer of Joe Boxer. [email protected]. This is what our friend in Under the direction of Halmos and Shipley, but it’s happening everywhere I go. Portland faces everyday. Haspel will offer a full collection of tailored These guys are both straight and Look at the modern world we clothing and sportswear, the vast major- gay, and sometimes “stray,” which is live in; how we are going to dress ity of which will be manufactured in the U.S. what I call someone who’s a bit of both. should start dressing like Lady Bunny, but in it? The technology shaping social sys- The tailored clothing will be made in the JA Twenty-five years ago, 80 percent of we can go much further than we do. tems; electric cars that can drive across Apparel factory and the shirts, ties and casual men’s underwear was bought by women. With only a very few exceptions, there the country; the stunning world that is pants will be made at the Southwick plant, That number today is probably down to hasn’t been a significant launch of a sig- being mapped and photographed on every both of which are in Massachusetts. Knitwear 20 percent. Men are becoming more in- nature American men’s wear brand since street — and now in the ocean; crowd will be made in Peru. It will be shown at the dependent in their thinking and more ad- Tommy Hilfiger in 1985. This statement funding of new ideas that would never be- Shipley & Halmos showrooms in New York as venturous in their self-expression of who will undoubtedly be debated by many. The fore have seen the light of day; space tour- well as at the upcoming Project trade shows in they are defined by what they wear. The iconic campaign that advertising vision- ism coming online in 2014. Are we still New York and Las Vegas. uniform that we have trained men to wear ary George Lois created for Tommy at the going to drape cable knit sweaters gently The new Haspel offering will be targeted is ready for a big shift. We’re about to go time was brilliant, and instantly planted around our shoulders while the world to a younger customer, have a “modern clas- from Prep, to what I call Post-Prep. Tommy’s flag on top of the world. goes through one of the most disruptive sic” sensibility and be targeted to better de- If Prep is e-mailing, Post-Prep is But as the comedian Eddie Izzard periods of its existence? partment and specialty stores. “The emphasis Tumbling. Prep is Prius, Post-Prep is says, “No flag, no country.” We need more This conversation is not about a new will be on sportswear, clothing and accesso- Tesla. It’s the Darwinian evolution that men’s wear designers to plant their flag trend, but the launch of a new style. Style ries that have references to our past but with we, as men, are going through — crawl- in the ground. is like knowing someone all your life; a more modern fits,” she said. It will be priced ing out of the primordial mud of tradition, When I say that there hasn’t been a sig- trend is having dinner with someone and just under designer collections and will in- moving toward an oxygenated world of nificant launch since 1985, I don’t mean never seeing them again. clude suits at $795 to $1,200; jackets for $695 choices about how we want to represent launch in terms of scale, but in market influ- It’s been a while since I’ve worked on to $995; shirts for $175 to $225; ties for $95, ourselves as our personal brand. It’s time ence. I think John Varvatos is brilliant, amaz- Seventh Avenue. Not much has changed. and chinos for $195 to $295. These prices are we gave our webbed toes a pedicure. ingly talented and a true artist. I think Thom There are the same retailer/vendor con- “about double” those of the collection pro- Why should pattern and color be just Browne is a genius, and whatever they put flicts, the late deliveries, the supply chain duced by Neema, Wallis said. the domain of women? Why should we in the water in Pennsylvania where he grew issues, the markdowns; the everyday drama Aronson said after she and Wallis inter- continue to choose which neutrals to up should be bottled. There are others, of that goes along with the apparel business. viewed dozens of potential design partners, wear? As Winston Churchill wrote, “I course, but clearly not enough. If you think But what has changed is the transparency she was impressed with the “attitude and zest” cannot pretend to feel impartial about about it, New York is the only fashion capital of the designer/consumer relationship. exhibited by Shipley and Halmos, who have colours. I rejoice with the brilliant ones in the world that doesn’t have an organized Retailers are not the guardians of fash- had their own label for five years. ion anymore, just like record companies Halmos said the duo had produced a small- MEN’S WEAR IS STILL SO UNEXPLORED. are not the arbiters of what people listen er collaboration with Uniqlo, but this is the to. We can no longer hide behind a store first full-scale effort outside their own label. door that opens at 9:30 a.m. to let people “We’re cautious about who we’re going to part- SO HOW FAR CAN WE PUSH OURSELVES? buy what we tell them to. Creativity and ner with,” he said. “But being approached by commerce are now open 24 hours a day Laurie and being able to work on a 100-year- I DON’T MEAN THAT MEN SHOULD START and nothing will again hold them back. old-plus brand is not super common. We look The true narrative of a brand can now be at it as an opportunity to take something that DRESSING LIKE LADY BUNNY, BUT WE CAN distributed unfiltered and fresh, and not was once an important American brand and be stifled by the economics of a third party. give it some much-needed love.” GO MUCH FURTHER THAN WE DO. Perhaps it is in this environment that Shipley said that in addition to the ap- men’s wear designers and retailers can parel, they have redesigned the logo, mar- and am genuinely sorry for the poor men’s fashion week, even though the United finally flourish. So get ready to take down keting material and hangtags — “the collat- browns.” Don’t get me wrong, I like States is one of the largest men’s wear mar- the posters of the golden Labs. I’m just as eral that helps tell the story of the brand.” brown; it looks great on camels and trees, kets. Isn’t that telling us something? sentimental as anyone, but it’s time to let Although Haspel’s history is in men’s seasonal but I think Churchill reflects my feeling Men’s wear sales at some of the con- the dogs out, so to speak. suits, the line is more than just seersucker. about men’s wear. temporary Web sites that carry both men’s Which is why I’m going back into the “We’re using other natural fibers — linens, Men’s wear as a palette for great design and women’s are 50 percent higher in com- men’s business. When asked by people, “Why wools, cottons — and a mix and match ap- can and should be as exciting as women’s parison to the off-line sales of women’s on earth would you go back in the indus- proach,” Shipley said. “We also modernized wear. The expression of design in women’s apparel. If total women’s clothing sales in try?” Well let me put it this way. First, I love the silhouette,” said Halmos. “The 104-year- wear is masterful and historical, adventur- the U.S. are about $120 billion, and men’s it, even with all its insular idiosyncrasies. old brand is credited with pioneering seer- ous and delicious, superb and sensual; so are about $60 billion, does that mean that Second, I need new clothes. Third, there is sucker for men’s suits. As the story goes, far ahead in its exploration of fabrics, cut men’s has a $30 billion upside if there were a huge opportunity I just can’t ignore. And Joseph Haspel took the fabric, which at the and emotional texture. But men’s wear more fashion for them to buy? finally, to quote my new company motto, and time was used as a material in coveralls, and is still so unexplored. So how far can we If men were buying with more frequen- which I also use as the rallying call for men’s produced a men’s suit at his New Orleans fac- push ourselves? I don’t mean that men cy (more like women in their need to keep wear in general: “Because he can.” tory. To demonstrate the wash-and-wear char- acteristics of the fabric, Haspel jumped into * The term “Men are the New Women” came from an article I read last fall. It is credited to Bret Pittman, director of J. Crew’s Ludlow the Atlantic Ocean on a business trip wear- Shop. Mickey, I know that you’re probably going to read this and if I didn’t mention it I’d never hear the end of it. ing his seersucker suit, hung it out to dry and wore it to a trade show that night.

MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 Men’s Week

soft gray lunar prints, bonsai trees Prints, Darks Colors for Summer and hinted snake motifs, which were also used on tapered sweat- pants and longer slouchy T-shirts. “We totally recut the M65 pants to Set the Tone at Pitti Uomo Show a slim-fit for a contemporary look,” Blechman said, excited about being back at Barneys New York this sea- {Continued from page MW1} Jacket,” an all-season lightweight wear label Robinson Les Bains, ing. “We sell this model a lot to son after five years of absence. included a green washed cotton deconstructed blazer made with an made a point of designing a special people who go sailing,” said Vérot, “In the U.S., business is pick- peacoat with an asymmetric cut, exclusive superfine cashmere wool, version of the brand’s best-selling citing light knits as another trend. ing up again,” he said, adding the a checkered drawstring raincoat which is usually used for scarves, Oxford shorts in custom-printed “Light summer knitwear is brand has done a series of exclu- and a comfortable blazer in a cot- and introduced lightweight pieces toile de Jouy for the U.S. market. still the strongest category,” con- sive items for the department ton shirt fabric. Channeling a subtle made from dyed mohair. “France and the U.K. are still firmed Kurino, predicting the store for winter. military theme, Azzuolo reworked The company, which according our biggest customers, because trend would continue throughout Maharishi showcased a line cargo pants, moving the lateral to chief executive officer Giovanni our shapes are more fitted and next winter, with round-necks of iPad cases, card holders and pockets up for a more urban and so- Mannucci is planning to have the Europeans are more body- having a comeback. bags manufactured from vintage phisticated effect. a store make its conscious. But now Signaling hybrids as another uniforms, featuring handles from Also among this season’s new- debut in Milan in we made the shorts trend, Kurino noted that while recycled military parachute cords comers at Pitti Uomo was Natural September 2014, longer to match the trousers are preferably worn for extra street credibility. Born Elegance, the luxury out- is also gearing up American taste,” he cropped by his customers, men’s Meanwhile, G-Star is pushing erwear line designed by Julian to open its first said, noting that the jackets were increasingly get- hard into the Italian market. The Cerrutti, son of Nino Cerrutti. offshore branch brand registered ting longer, as seen at Japanese Dutch denim maker has teamed Focusing on craftsmanship and in the U.S., an increase of 75 high-end fabrics, Cerrutti delivered called Boglioli percent in turn- Boglioli Natural Born four styles — a zipped bomber, a USA Corp. “The over in the past Elegance sweater jacket, along with a classic American mar- 12 months. “This and a sporty blazer — all lined in ket is almost season alone we lightweight rich materials treated unexplored have won 20 new with innovative techniques, which by Boglioli, so clients.” made them waterproof. we decided to Following the Robinson Les Bains Standouts included a snakeskin- manage it directly,” trend toward premium printed cashmere bomber, a nylon Mannucci said. “The U.S. has a swimwear, the brand broadened and cotton sport jacket lined with leadership in the luxury busi- its offer of prints. “Usually we printed cashmere and a casual blaz- ness, and we believe that the re- only have one or two, this time we er in linen. Cerrutti also used a silk gion requires a presence in situ are presenting seven,” said Vérot, and ramie fabric to deliver a sophis- in order to serve our customers noting he tapped the archives ticated bomber with a leatherlike ef- more effectively.” of famous Italian printmaker fect and a cool tuxedo jacket featur- To run the company, Boglioli Ratti, choosing floral and Orient ing the lining in a crocodile pattern. tapped David Newlove as manag- Express-inspired motifs, which Other texture innovations were ing director. The appointment will among others made their way into observed at Boglioli. Continuing the be effective July 1. a hybrid T-shirt that can be worn company’s search for unconvention- Having his sights set on going on the beach or in the city alike, al products, the Italian men’s wear west, as well, Christophe Vérot, se- made from terry with printed brand launched the “Pashmina nior designer of Paris-based swim- nylon sleeves and soft cotton lin-

KS(S) for instance. “With all this up with Italian A.R.P. retail group Brunello bad weather going on around to set up 10 monobrand stores Cucinelli the world, these coat-with-jacket in the country. “It’s a three-year [blends] are useful. They also look plan and we are starting with more elegant and mature.” Rome in August,” said Philip On the color front, indigo Truyen, the brand’s international was the buzzword. At Closed, the account director. “A.R.P. is a great brand’s signature denim and chino partner. Once they made a deci- styles upped their ante with a nat- sion, they shift gears very fast, ural indigo dye, which also found and for us a flagship is the best its way onto a series of sweats. shop window. We have a lot of While the brand made vintage- confidence in the market.” looking patchwork its leading Truyen said he was also ex- theme for denim, chinos came in cited to see that while G-Star has a new cotton fabric, woven with a traditionally been a “European “military structure” and developed brand,” it is now showing a posi- by the German casualwear brand. tive evolution in Asia, the Middle “It gives a three-dimensional qual- East and the U.S. “And we see one ity to the fabric, it’s more volumi- of the strongest penetrations in nous, but lighter,” senior men’s de- Australia,” said Truyen. “Thirty signer Manfred Wagner said. monobrand stores there alone. Eidos Kiton The brand made loosely knit They love denim.” long-sleeve shirts from cotton linen G-star is celebrating its 25th an- blends a topic this season. Being niversary with a key introduction a strong player on the European this season, the Type C denim pant market, the company is eyeing Asia available in six washes. Channeling next. “It’s a strongly growing market Forties U.S. workmen wear, it fea- for us, Japan and South Korea tures extralarge pockets and especially, where people have 3-D effects giving shape to the a sense for quality and detail,” legs before being worn. “They said Closed’s sales manager twist by themselves while giv- Nadine Hölkermann, citing ing you a relaxed silhou- a trend toward slim-legged ette — a very commercial bottoms. style,” explained Rene Jennings further Ketting, creative control- observed that while ler at G-Star. Otherwise, “the camo trend has Ketting lists straight-leg not gone anywhere,” and tapered among the traditional camo has most relevant styles, been combined with “with indigo obviously other prints, patterns being our bestseller.” and colors, calling it Thinking outside of “camo-fusion.” the box was Montreal- Take London- based luxury accessories based label Maharishi. brand Want Les Essentiels Having sensed the de la Vie, which for the influx of camouflages, first time presented its the brand’s founder and collection in a customized creative head, Hardy glass garden house outside Blechman, showcased the pavilion. Playing his recycled mili- with optical illu- tary pants, the sions, the de- Maharishi Want Les Essentiels de la Vie brand’s signa- signers used ture, featuring an Italian Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 MW7

high-end woven fabric that looked Europe, on the other hand, is beaded as well as a coated rubber- divided, remarked Beer. “We are Camoshita ized canvas featuring a leather- opening a flagship in Cologne this like effect. The designers also re- August, but in the south — and I worked a vintage Liberty motif and mean France, Spain and Italy — offered a new take on camouflage business is slow. We are sort of with the colorful “Blue Splash” under the weather there.” The pattern. company, which is set to open Among its wide range of prod- seven more stores this year, has fo- ucts, Want Les Essentiels de la cused its expansion plans on Japan Vie introduced a style, called and Greater China. Lindberg, consisting of a spacious Once again, luxury labels are tote bag, along with a new fold- weathering the choppy economy bet- able folio with pockets inside. ter than most, with many notching Following the debut of the brace- up double-digit revenue growth, sus- lets last year, for spring the brand tained almost exclusively by strong introduced its first range of belts exports, while the domestic market made of woven coated canvas. remains mired in recession. Swiss brand Victorinox con- Take Brunello Cucinelli. tinued building Protect, its cap- Echoing a sentiment shared by sule collection designed in col- other tailoring brands, Cucinelli laboration with artist Christopher pointed to export markets — espe- Raeburn, now the label’s artistic cially the U.S. and Europe exclud- director. This season the sub- ing Italy — and foreign consumers brand showcased three styles, a traveling to Italy as the drivers of vest, a parka and a bomber jacket, the firm’s sales. In its home coun- all reversible, featuring a water- tr y, the firm’s sales are flat, the ceo inspired camouflage print on one said — “and that’s good,” he added, side and indigo blue on the other, pointing out that many firms in the while a new three-in-one version industry are seeing negative sales of the brand’s best-selling explorer growth in the country. shell jacket with detachable vest For spring-summer 2014, the complemented the offering. firm found inspiration in the The brand’s sales spiked 25 per- “Teddy Boy” suburban youth move- lappings and sartorial details. linen. “Ten years ago, you mentioned new retail opportunities, including cent in 2012. “While the U.K. stays ment of Fifties London. Colors re- Cucinelli said for next season, an linen in the U.S. and consumers store openings slated for New Yo r k our largest single market generating flected the demand for subdued important novelty is the use of would faint. Now, they are accepting and Tokyo by 2014. 35 percent of total business, India is tones, ranging from dark shades of many shades of blue, matched to linen a lot more,” Cocco said. Tom Kalenderian of Barneys the fastest-growing,” said Joachim red to burgundy and purple, along darker hues, like browns. High-end tailor Kiton also took a summed up the general mood at Beer, Victorinox’s president. “In 12 with blackberry, sage, myrtle and The fabric mixes are wool, linen new turn at linen, blending it with the trade show as “upbeat,” adding months we doubled our sales there. nuances of boxwood, royal and and cotton as well as pure wool cashmere, which was also mixed “the Italian suppliers seemed confi- It was a real shock to us.” navy blue and indigo with over- for some jackets, which can thus with vicuna. Colors for next sea- dent and the attendance appeared double as outerwear when need- son include blues, dark and light strong.” Following the prevailing ed. Garments continue the slim-fit grays in patterns that “generate theme, he said he would stock up trend, “close to the body,” some- movement” on the fabric, including on more items that are seasonless. thing particularly important for oversize checks and thin pinstripes. “With the climate changes we’ve ex- the jacket, “which can be worn ev- Antonio De Matteis, ceo of Kiton, perienced in the U.S., we put more erywhere, in an elegant and sporty said overall sales in the first five focus on items that transition sea- manner — even just to go buy a months of 2013 were up by almost sons,” he explained. newspaper at the kiosk,” he said. 14 percent on the year-ago period. Barbara Cocco, president of The company last week Belvest USA, said sales in the first opened its first store in Almaty, five months of 2013 in that market Kazakhstan, and is scheduled to — which represents some 25 per- open two more units by September, cent of total turnover — are up by 10 one in Astana (again Kazakhstan) percent on the same period last year and one in Istanbul. Plans call for and she expects 10 percent growth opening more stores in European for the full year. The big novelty in- cities including Berlin, Frankfurt, troduced at Pitti for spring 2014 is Paris and Madrid, while in China the firm’s new lagoon jacket, in wool- Kiton aims to have 15 to 20 stores cotton seersucker and with clean within three years, the ceo said. Belvest lines, while the company has also At Isaia, the leitmotif for next seen demand increase in the U.S. for season is a reinterpreted military camouflage aesthetic that uses Isaia’s trademark coral design to G–Star Raw create a new, playful “coral-flage” pattern applied to shirt and jacket meltons and pants as well as to tai- lored and sportswear pieces and accessories, like bags. In keeping with the military theme, Isaia uses paratrooper arm patches on leather pieces. The company also showed a refined version of last year’s San Severo superlight, deconstructed shirt jacket with checks and sport- ing the “coralflage” melton. Isaia said revenues at the fam- ily-owned firm last year reached 32.6 million euros, or $43.6 mil- lion at current exchange, from 28 million euros, or $37.4 million, in 2011, and forecasts sales hitting 35 million euros, or $46.8 mil- lion, this year. Given the strength of the sportswear collections, MSGM: MSGM creative Isaia said he’d like to balance director Massimo Giorgetti the firm’s sales from 30 percent tempered his girly aesthetic sportswear and 70 percent tai- with charming tomboy lored clothing to 50/50. touches in a colorful resort Internationally, the company is collection. A laser-cut, showing strong growth in Eastern short-sleeve sweatshirt Europe with 10 percent expansion was worn over a digital- on a seasonal and yearly basis, printed floral shirt and while Western Europe is up 6 to 7 puffy skirt, and there were per cent. In China, the company is tough jacket and feminine “focused on developing increased dress combinations, such brand awareness and is looking to as a perfecto paired with a MAESTRI DAVIDE expand with some key franchising Sixties-inspired A-line shift opportunities,” Isaia said, pointing in neon cotton jacquard.

PHOTOS BY out that the firm has also identified MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 Men’s Week

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO MONCLER “A recovery of classical antiquity and beauty GAMME BLEU without compromises: a perfect physicality, the “All rounder.” rigor of sports, masculine moments of leisure. — Thom Browne, Reminiscent of the Thirties, an expression of the Creative Director true soul of architectural rationalism — in the background, a city with metaphysical contours accentuates the ideal of an absolute linear purity. The color range, from white to light blue up to blue, is accentuated by green grass and rust.” — Massimiliano Giornetti, Creative Director

MISSONI “In recognition of Missoni’s 60th anniversary, the collection draws inspiration from the family’s focus on innovating new knit techniques, this season inspired by the radiant textiles and landscapes of West Africa.” — Angela Missoni, Creative Director

ETRO BRIONI “Zorro is the man without a face, doing “Under the good without being recognized and summer rewarded. He is one who gives without sun, there’s asking, he is one who serves, who puts still room himself at others’ service without for sartorial demanding anything in return. This is the elegance.” true revolution!” — Brendan — Kean Etro, Creative Director Mullane, Creative Director ROBERTO CAVALLI “Damascus steel is the precious inspiration for a sharp and charming masculine allure, where elegance is the protagonist. The exquisite designs and the architectural sobriety derived from the world of rare knives and blades create a sophisticated and sensual universe made to be discovered and savored — cool, refined and timeless as style itself.” — Roberto Cavalli, DIRK BIKKEMBERGS Creative Director “The new men’s collection is inspired by the creative contrast between the organic feel and the technical concept.” — Hamish Morrow, Creative Director UMIT BENAN “There was once a Turkish gentleman….” — Umit Benan, Creative Director

ANDREA INCONTRI “The new Andrea Incontri collection is dedicated to life on the seaside and the figure of the lighthouse keeper.” — Andrea Incontri, Creative Director

BELSTAFF MP MASSIMO PIOMBO “The collection is a balance “The power of glamour between utility and adventure with an eccentric — the two pillars of the attitude.” Belstaff brand.” — Massimo Piombo, — Martin Cooper, Designer Creative Director Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 MW9

DIESEL BLACK GOLD CANALI “With the attempts “For spring-summer to control Nature, 2014, Canali wisely humankind has mixes its Italian created a new, soul with an futuristic, international technological spirit. Giorgio yet furious Morandi and Nature. The next Yves Klein environment will are the two be wilder and main muses unpredictable. for colors, New generations patterns and of urban shapes.” botanical — Elisabetta gardens, new Canali, species, odd Communications forms and new Director synthetic colors. A silent war between two contrasting worlds. Nature against technology.’’ — Creative Team

LES HOMMES “The thought of what felt relevant for spring coincided with the need to think about purity and honesty of the shapes, colors and textiles whilst exploring something romantic.” — Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, Creative Directors Rites of Spring From the rigor of sports to the call of the Orient, inspiration comes in many guises for designers set to show in Milan.

ERMANNO SCERVINO CORNELIANI “For the upcoming season, “From Mantua to I thought of a man with a Sumatra, passing strong, timeless style.” through Shanghai… — Ermanno Scervino, by air, sea or land… Designer a journey to the edge of the Orient, stretched toward the future to serve an aesthetic with ANDREA POMPILIO influences running from the traditional “Signature prints are to the ultramodern.” reproduced on fabrics and — Sergio various materials, with new Corneliani, combinations of textures — Creative Director for instance, a glossy white trench of coated linen. Paisley, batik, geometric and optical graphics appear on garments like hallucinations, even on denim. The tailored suit, striped or printed, needs to be worn with a poplin shirt with the collar popped.” — Andrea Pompilio, Designer

ICEBERG “The inspiration of the new Iceberg men’s collection stems from the observation of urban PORTS 1961 attitudes — to discover “A reinterpretation Z ZEGNA JET SET dynamism of abstract geometric “Architectural “The Jet Set man: and installations applied evening proposals a modern attitude, metropolitan to form, fit and in high-performance where fashion movement.” graphics.” and contemporary meets comfort and — Creative — Fiona Cibani, fabrications.” performance.” Team Creative Director, — Paul Surridge, — Massimo Suppancig, and Ian Hylton, Creative Director Men’s Wear Designer Chief Executive Officer MW10 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 Men’s Week Gucci Opens Men’s Flagship in Milan

by LUISA ZARGANI named Lapo’s Wardrobe. The clas- marble, exclusively used in Gucci’s Jackets feature unique cuts accen- Lapo sic tailoring collection comprises men’s stores. Fluted glass, warm tuating the back. An internal label Elkann MILAN — Gucci will officially un- 27 looks — 23 for men and four brushed bronze, smoked mirrors allows for the owner’s name, date designed veil its first men’s wear flagship in for women — and is completed by and smoked bronze glass all con- of creation and the garment’s city a capsule Europe on Sunday evening with a made-to-measure leather goods, tribute to the design. of origin. In addition to Milan, the collection party during Men’s Fashion Week. shoes and jewelry. In line with Gucci’s com- capsule collection in the future will with Frida Designed by creative director Standout elements in the light mitment to sustainability, the be available in four Gucci stores Giannini. Frida Giannini, the 5,400-square- and airy open space with an Art company is seeking LEED, worldwide — Paris, London, New foot store covers three floors and Deco mood are a series of back- or Leadership in Energy and York and São Paulo. is located in Milan’s arty Brera dis- lit panels with Gucci’s Diamante Environmental Design, certifica- A selection of jacket linings trict. The unit counts an area dedi- pattern that lead the way into the tion for the store. The flagship include printed silks with archi- cated to Gucci’s made-to-measure store. The brand’s signature rose- carries the full men’s collection, val patterns of feathers or horse program and is the first to offer wood and ebony are enhanced including ready-to-wear, footwear, saddles, for example, reproduced the capsule collection designed with the introduction of new ele- luggage, accessories, small leath- for the first time. Coordinated silk by Giannini and Lapo Elkann, ments such as matte, light gray er goods, belts, sunglasses, trim matches the foulard lin- watches, jewelry and fra- ings on collars and double grances. A VIP fitting area is cuffs. High-waisted pants fea- reserved for Gucci’s made- ture slim lines, and detailing to-measure on the first floor. includes pleats, built-in belt- The store also offers made- ing, button-up cuffs and but- to-order shoes. tons for suspenders. Giannini and Elkann Materials include had already worked tartan wool, stretch together on the Fiat cotton gabardine, 500 by Gucci in 2011. cashmere corduroy, Elkann, known for his herringbone tweed, stylish and sometimes wool mohair and quirky approach to velvet. Blue, man- fashion, brings a darin orange, green, touch of eccentricity red, ivory, mocha, to Lapo’s Wardrobe, navy, gray and black where the choice are some of the hues spans from suiting sil- in the color palette. Inside the three-level store. houettes and textiles, Jacquard with the to linings, knitwear, signature letter G in shirts, suspenders, ties, a chain creates a sub- scarves, cuff links, jew- tle pinstripe. Shirts elry, shoes and luggage, with embroidered all using exclusive patterns. initials and customized The made-to-measure knit polos as well as car- wardrobe comprises more digans, peacoats and the than 80 textiles that allow chesterfield, assorted for more than 900 possible bags, luggage and shoes combinations between color, complete the offer. fabric and style. There are two women’s There are two silhou- day suits and tuxedos with ettes, for single-breasted plunging necklines and em- suits with rounded shoulders phasized waistlines, while DELBO and double-breasted options shoulders may be either with equestrian detailing. sharp or rounded. Fabrics Of note are elements such comprise wool mohair, nat- ANDREA as decorative turquoise ural stretch wool, cashmere The store is in the silk thread in contrast, and velvet. There are also Brera district. hand-stitching and manu- A look from pumps in suede or velvet Lapo’s Wardrobe. ally created buttonholes. with bow detailing. STORE PHOTOS BY Gaia Trussardi Makes Debut at Storied Family Brand

MILAN — The Trussardi family is will focus on “timeless yet contem- of creative director in March, after have it, we don’t need to invent any- the Far East and Japan for 40 per- closing ranks. porary codes in order to communi- the group and Umit Benan Sahin thing. This is a company founded in cent; Russia for 10 percent, and As Gaia Trussardi unveils her cate a joyful sense of dynamism.” ended their two-year collaboration 1911 with an important industrial re- Europe for 7 percent, but we would first collection for the Trussardi For her first collection, Trussardi with the women’s fall collection. ality,” commented Tomaso Trussardi. like Italy to represent 26 percent brand during the men’s shows here wanted to re-create the strong, mas- She was previously creative direc- The executive said the compa- and Europe to grow to account for on Sunday, she will join at the head culine image of the Trussardi man tor of the Tru Trussardi line. ny, which closed 2012 with sales of 28 percent,” he said. of the family-owned firm her sib- in the Eighties, designing clothes The three siblings are the offspring 150 million euros, or $192 million The Milan-based firm is also lings Beatrice and Tomaso, respec- that are sophisticated and comfort- of Maria Luisa and Nicola Trussardi, at average exchange, is aiming to looking at re-creating a network of tively president and chief execu- able at the same time. In keeping who reshaped the family business he expand its business in Europe, en- stores for its signature line as the tive officer of Trussardi, and ceo with the brand’s core business, had inherited from his father. tering Germany and France with best vehicle to communicate the of TRS Evolution, the Trussardi Trussardi indulged in the use of “There are so many brands that the signature line, and in Russia. values of the brand. “The experi- Group company that produces the leather, which she reworked not work to create a heritage experience “In value, looking at orders for ence at retail is fundamental — the brand’s first and second lines of only for accessories, including volu- they don’t have, but we legitimately 2014, Italy accounts for 36 percent; logic is pull, not push. A beautiful, clothing and accessories. minous bags, cases and backpacks, quality product is a prerequisite, “The group is now ready and but also for ready-to-wear pieces. the next step is to express an emo- mature to welcome Gaia, and this Delivering a “minimal, sporty tion,” said Tomaso Trussardi, admit- step is part of the renewal process elegance,” Trussardi took inspira- ting the wholesale channel is “more and relaunch of the company,” said tion from the Dakar Rally compe- difficult, ” suffering the most in the Tomaso Trussardi, adding that his tition to design soft leather pants difficult economy. Women’s accesso- sister helps contribute to a “new and a coordinated zipped bomber, ries are the best-performing items, image that speaks of the family and which were matched to resemble accounting for 60 percent of sales. its vision to make Trussardi into an a racing suit. She also realized a There are 10 Trussardi bou- Italian and global leather goods and car coat in washed, glossy leather, tiques, including two new ones in apparel brand. She’s lived through which she paired with textured Tuscany’s resort town Forte dei all the different eras of the brand, canvas rolled shorts and a washed Marmi, and in Turin. Five stores she knows about style and leather shirt. Another look included py- opened in China in one year, in- treatments, and she is the perfect thon skin baggy shorts, worn with cluding two in Shanghai and one person to work on the aesthetics a muslin cotton polo shirt in a co- in Beijing. There are plans to open not only of the shows but also of the lonial print, which was inspired by 20 units over the next two-and-a- stores and ad campaigns.” an archival pattern. half years in the Asia-Pacific re- “My goal is to create a more The deconstructed outerwear in- Spring gion, with a focus on Hong Kong, precise identity for the label, cluded a parka in creased canvas, a looks from Singapore and Taiwan. PAVESI GIOVANNA bringing back the brand’s core val- knitted bomber and a treated leath- Trussardi. — L.Z. AND ues built over the last 100 years,” er biker jacket with snap buttons. ALESSANDRA TURRA

said Gaia Trussardi, who said she The designer took on the role PHOTOS BY Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 MW11 Accessories Drive Father’s Day Sales by JEAN E. PALMIERI with more than 40 British brands to pro- this Father’s Day was a lot like the spring “Then there was the buzz leading up to duce exclusive merchandise. weather — “stormy, inconsistent and cool.” the U.S. Open,” he added. “That pushed the THE FIRST QUARTER of 2013 was no pic- “And the fall collections were awe- He said while clothing and personal ac- whole golf category forward.” Top perform- nic for men’s wear retailers as unpredict- some,” Fisher added, noting that Burberry, cessories such as belts, shoes and small ers included polos in performance fabrics able weather patterns and continuing eco- John Varvatos and Vince all presented leather goods were “bright spots” and “up and bright colors and patterns. nomic uncertainty took a toll on business. strong lines. Ralph Lauren is producing to last year,” traditional furnishings such Color is also making its mark in foot- But the situation started to turn around in some exclusive product for the retailer as dress shirts and ties, along with sports- wear, with suede driving moccasins and May, and customers returned to the stores, under its Polo label. “We’re going to have wear, were “very disappointing.” boat shoes selling in updated hues such as providing merchants with a much-needed a certain amount of product that is not Amendola said sales of clothing continue gray. Other top sellers for Father’s Day in- uptick just in time for Father’s Day. As a available elsewhere,” he said, “so that to be driven by young guys seeking slimmer cluded flat-front shorts in seasonal colors, result, sales were strong for the holiday, helps us differentiate.” suit silhouettes, “but Father’s Day and gift- linen in neutral shades and tropical pat- with accessories, dress shirts and other Saks Fifth Avenue was also pleased with giving are not about tailored clothing. They’re terns, bold colored dress shirts from Alfani traditional gift items leading the way. its Father’s Day business. It was good,” said more about shirts, ties and sportswear. In Spectrum (available in up to 24 shades) and The rebound in business and the strong Tom Ott, senior vice president and gmm of those categories, there are a lot of options out bow ties. “The bow-tie momentum contin- Father’s Day results have also brightened there and a lot more choice of price.” ues,” Guion said, as does the interest in the mood of men’s wear stores about the up- As a result, he continued, “The four-letter socks and pocket squares. coming fall season, with most retailers an- word to describe the spring season is ‘sale.’ Looking toward fall, Guion said he’s ticipating a strong second half. It’s one of the drivers. Either that, or the cus- “very excited about the trends. There will be The National Retail Federation, in tomer needs a reason to buy, like our Gatsby more saturated colors and that will continue its annual spending survey conducted by collection. It either has to be distinctive and to drive newness. That’s what’s working and BIGinsight, projected that the average per- special or driven by a promotion.” we see that continuing into fall.” son would spend $119.84 on Father’s Day Although Brooks Bros. managed to Kevin McLaughlin, cofounder of the J. gifts this year, up from $117.14 last year. meet last year’s numbers, Amendola said McLaughlin chain of preppy specialty stores, Total spending was expected to reach $13.3 the end result was “nowhere near plan or said Father’s Day sales rose in the double billion. Apparel was expected to account for where we would like it to be.” As a result, digits at the company’s 70-plus stores. “But $1.8 billion of that spending. “we have an extremely conservative plan it was late. It seemed like people stopped at “It was a very good Father’s Day,” said for fall,” he said. One positive, however, is the store on Sunday on their way to Dad’s David Fisher, executive vice president and that inventory levels are in line “so there house,” he said with a chuckle. general merchandise manager of men’s won’t be any panic. But there’s also no sus- What they purchased were novelty wear for Bloomingdale’s. “It looks like we’ll tainable momentum.” items. “Conversational ties, embroidered be up in the single digits.” Durand Guion, vice president and men’s shorts, brightly colored swimwear and the Although comparisons with last year fashion director for Macy’s, said there were accessory of the moment: thematic, pat- were impacted by a shift in the promo- several highlights for the Father’s Day sell- terned socks. It was nothing too serious.” tional calendar, Fisher said he was pleased ing period. “We’re in the middle of our This trend is expected to continue into fall. with the results. “We broke price in cloth- American Icons promotion, and a lot of that “It tells me we have to have a level of novelty ing in May so sport coats and slacks were product was popular,” he said, pointing to in everything we do,” he said. “People come good,” he said, adding that nested suit graphic T-shirts and short-sleeve wovens in to us for things that are different in some sales were “just OK.” Canali, Burberry, an updated red, white and blue palette. way, and we have to stay on that track.”

men’s. “Business just kept getting better and The windows at Saks Fifth Avenue. better as the season went on.” He said the Man of company’s “story this year is about acces- BRAD PITT: C sories.” Featured product included every- THE WEEK thing from sunglasses and hats to “pocket gadgets” including pens and lighters. Cuff  links, tie bars, lapel adornments and color- Brad Pitt confronts a zombie apocalypse in ful patterned socks joined pocket squares,  watches and bracelets in the store’s Father’s his new thriller “World War Z” — and he took Day catalogue this year. “It’s all about color and modernity,” the Goth theme to heart with his all-black, he said. “The old guy wants to look young deconstructed look at the film’s Times Square and the young guy wants to look cool.” Outside of accessories, Ott said premium premiere this week. denim has also been a standout. “It’s probably our best trending business in men’s,” he said, noting: “We’ve really been going after it.” The tag line for the season was “Little Time for a haircut, Angie was missing Things Make a Big Difference,” and Saks Brad — although from the screening, partnered with St. Jude Children’s Research New York women but it looks like her would pay a sunglasses were there.

MONICA SCHIPPER/GETTY IMAGES FOR SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Hospital over Father’s Day weekend to do- nate 5 percent of men’s purchases to the fortune for those charity. The initiative kicked off Thursday sun-kissed highlights. PHOTOS BY night at the flagship when former NBA stars Kevin Willis and Walt Frazier appeared in A stronger shoulder Corneliani and Hickey Freeman were the store on behalf of Willis’ big & tall men’s on the jacket would add some needed among the top performers, along with wear collection, Willis & Walker. A less transparent structure to this look. Armani, “which is coming back.” Eric Jennings, Saks’ men’s fashion direc- T-shirt would be It’s possible to be both Fisher said denim sales were up, but not tor, said repeating last year’s success over more polished. Goth and tailored. to the “level I wanted.” However, contempo- the Father’s Day period was tops on every- Even heartthrobs can rary sportswear and the emerging brands in one’s mind. “It was all hands on deck,” he put some effort into the retailer’s Lab department were “terrific.” said, “to figure out a singular vision on how dressing up — just He also singled out John Varvatos along with to execute it.” The result was to “gather ask George Clooney. The elongated sleeves its Star line, Burberry sportswear, Theory, thousands of little things” that would be on the sheer T-shirt Hugo Boss and Vince as among the best per- “showstoppers” for customers. The store manage to look both formers for the pre-Father’s Day period. “We also used its Fifth Avenue windows to show- sloppy and affected. developed some key items from Vince for case the accessories products in an intricate The raw edges and missing Father’s Day, and it paid off,” he said. and creative way. “I’ve never seen more buttons look unfinished He said accessories and men’s jewelry men or women stopping to look and take and inappropriate for a sales have been good and neckties have pictures,” Jennings said. “We’re making the 49-year-old movie star. The jeans have a nice, been outperforming dress shirts. “We’ve little things big. Little accessories can really The All Saints look is slim fit but are too seen a big uptick in socks, small leather make a difference in a person’s style.” better left to younger guys. long. Less bunching goods, sunglasses and bags — the big gift Ott said the strength of the Father’s Day would clean up the items,” he said. “And ties have been better business buoyed his spirits for the remain- silhouette. than dress shirts all season.” der of the year. “I hate to blame the weather, Looking ahead, Fisher said the future but the warm winter and cold spring in the appears bright. “It was a tough quarter for Northeast really hurt sales, but when the everyone, but things opened up in May, so weather changed, people started to shop. it looks good. We have so much ammuni- The male consumer is really a buy-now, tion for fall, with our British invasion and wear-now shopper.” the whole Beatles thing.” Bloomingdale’s Jennings agreed. “Men’s wear has been for fall will pay tribute to the U.K. through so steady and consistent over the past five a storewide celebration it is calling “Brit years. Men are more engaged in their ap- Style.” The promotion will be national in pearance, and that shows in the numbers.” IMAGES JENNIFER GRAYLOCK/GETTY scope, but the men’s area has embraced it Lou Amendola, chief merchandising

in a particularly aggressive way, partnering officer for Brooks Brothers, said business PHOTO BY