Masked Marvels
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THINKTANK RETAIL NICK GRAHAM SHOCKER ON WHY MEN MEN’S WEARHOUSE ARE THE NEW OUSTS GEORGE ZIMMER. WOMEN. PAGE MW2 WIND IN THEIR SAILS PAGE MW4 CREATURES OF THE WIND GETS NEW INVESTOR. PAGE 2 APPEAL EXPECTED Dolce and Gabbana Guilty in Tax Trial By LUISA ZARGANI SPRING 2014 MILAN — Guilty. That was the verdict handed down to Domenico MILAN Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, as well as four other MEN’S defendants, here Wednesday afternoon in the design- COLLECTION ers’ long-running tax evasion case. Judge Antonella THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 PREVIEW Brambilla sentenced the designers and accountant Luciano Patelli to one year and eight months in jail, WWD plus legal expenses. Dolce’s brother Alfonso, gen- eral director Cristiana Ruella and fi nance director Giuseppe Minoni were sentenced to one year and four months in jail plus legal expenses. There is little chance the designers and the other defendants will serve any jail time because the sen- tences are below the two-year minimum generally re- quired in Italy to do so. The defendants were also charged with paying the Revenue Agency a provisional fi ne of 500,000 euros, or $668,650 at current exchange. The plaintiff solicitor Gabriella Valadia at the end of May asked for a provision- al fi ne of 10 million euros, or $13 million, citing damages to the image of the Revenue Service. Valadia at the time claimed that tax evasion “shows a system that is not cred- ible and effi cacious, it hurts the credibility of the Italian fi scal system, aggravated by the fact that the individuals at the center of the trial are so famous.” The court’s fi ne is separate from one imposed by the Revenue Agency of more than 400 million euros, or $535 million at current exchange, at the end of March. The only defendant totally acquitted Wednesday was Noella Antoine, an employee of Alter Domus, an agency that provides services in Luxembourg, as there was “no case,” said the judge. In his closing speech at the end of May, prosecutor Gaetano Ruta had requested Antoine be acquitted. The designers were acquitted on the second count they were originally charged with, which regarded the valuation of the company and the tax rate paid. Brambilla quickly delivered the verdict in a court- room that was teeming with reporters and TV crews SEE PAGE 5 DFS’ Upscale Push By RACHEL BROWN LOS ANGELES — The DFS Group is traveling far be- yond duty-free shopping. On Thursday, the travel retailer, which is major- ity owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, unveiled 10 spaces covering 25,000 square feet at Los Angeles International Airport’s revamped Tom Bradley International Terminal that represent its dedi- cation to cultivating a luxury environment on par with the top global luxury stores. The aim is to appeal to tourists, largely from emerging markets, China being the largest, with mounting wealth and sophistication. Masked Marvels The new spaces at LAX are part of an overall strat- As the Lone Ranger readies to ride into movie theaters this summer, his compatriot-in-concealment, egy to de-emphasize and, in the case of its downtown Galleria locations, move away from the tax-free part Zorro, will be crossing the border into Italy. The dashing swordsman is the inspiration for of DFS’ business model. Instead, the retailer is out Etro’s latest men’s collection, as seen here. “Zorro is the man without a face, doing good to underscore its position as an upscale destination without being recognized. This is the true revolution!” said designer Kean Etro. For more driven primarily by the assortment, service and a strong relationship with travelers specifi cally who advance looks — unmasked — of the Milan men’s collections, see pages MW8 and MW9. trust its merchandise and knowledge. “We have the most savvy customers in the world at this airport, who have very high standards and expectations coming from Asia, Europe and other places,” said Philippe Schaus, who became chairman and chief executive offi cer of DFS almost a year ago, during a tour of DFS’ 12,000-square-foot beauty sec- tion in Tom Bradley. “What we try to bring here to Los Angeles is a quality of offer and of ambiance, which is really in line with the best department stores in the world. In that sense, I hope we have set a new stan- dard for North American airports, in particular.” SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013 Creatures of the Wind Gets Investment THE BRIEFING BOX Negotiations are under way footwear. The COTW founders By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG for a SoHo design studio that will have also been traveling to Japan IN TODAY’S WWD also serve as a New York office for a yet-to-be-launched collabora- NEW YORK — Creatures of for The Dock Group. Now that tion with Sanyo. Walker declined to the Wind is about to take flight, Gabier and Peters have a Lower elaborate, saying, “There are a lot thanks to a major investment East Side apartment, they will of possible expansions given their from The Dock Group. divide their time between down- distinctive voice. They have al- Lapo Elkann designed After speaking with poten- town Manhattan and Chicago’s ready have a fair number of collab- Gucci’s men’s capsule tial moneymen for a year or “semi up-and-coming” Humboldt orations, and there could be more.” collection with Frida so, founders Shane Gabier and Park neighborhood, Gabier said. The duo is also in the run- Giannini. For more, Christopher Peters have signed a Partners in life and work, the ning for the 2013-14 International see WWD.com. deal with the Los Angeles-based pair met at their alma mater, Woolmark Prize. Developing firm, which is headed by Matthew the School of the Art Institute “proper knits,” a category they Walker, The Row’s former presi- of Chicago, where Gabier still have experience in, is another pur- dent and chief operating officer. teaches. After graduation, Gabier suit they are excited about, Peters Walker declined to reveal the worked in Antwerp, Belgium, for said. Having teamed up with Aline stake he is acquiring in COTW, or designers Dirk Schönberger and Cautis in the past, Gabier and the level of the investment, but Jurgi Persoons before returning to Peters are brainstorming on new said The Dock’s strategy is to fabrics with the New York- invest $300,000 to more than based artist Sarah Sieradzki. $1 million in brands. Their label is sold via 20 re- The capital infusion is wel- tailers, including Net-a-Porter, come news for the two design- Dover Street Market, Saks ers, who have spent the past Fifth Avenue, Fivestory and few years using the basement Ikram. First things first, Walker of their Chicago house as a de- aims to build distribution with sign studio and taking a very influential specialty stores hands-on approach to distri- for the brand to be positioned Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana and four other bution. The company has less properly in all markets. “Even defendants were found guilty in Milan Wednesday afternoon than $1 million in sales. though the company has been in the long-running tax evasion case. PAGE 1 “Initially, we tried to ship around, it is just getting off the from Chicago but we use ground. It has the potential to On Thursday, the DFS Group, which is majority owned by New York factories. We start- be an incredibly influential LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, unveiled 10 spaces ed shipping directly from designer label in the U.S. and covering 25,000 square feet at LAX. PAGE 1 Midtown, literally carrying abroad,” Walker said. boxes from factory to factory, Going forward, a portion Karl Lagerfeld’s online game went live Wednesday, giving which is tiring if you are doing of the collection will be made consumers a chance to win free Lagerfeld sunglasses or a really big order,” Peters said. in Japan and the rest will be limited-edition Tokidoki figurines. PAGE 3 “It was pretty unique.” produced in the U.S. Once re- Walker, who has taken on tail distribution is broadened, Mulberry gave specially-made bags to the leaders taking part the role of COTW’s president Walker will zero in on ad- in the G8 summit that took place on June 17 and 18. PAGE 4 and chief executive officer, vertising, launching concept CHINSEE will be spending more time in shops, freestanding stores New York. During a phone in- and e-commerce. All in all, Valentino’s creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have tapped British fashion terview Wednesday from his GEORGE The Dock Group’s input, espe- Los Angeles office, he said his BY cially the organizational struc- photographer Craig McDean for the fall 2013 men’s “multiplatform company helps Christopher Peters and Shane Gabier ture, should make the daily advertising campaign. PAGE 7 young designers navigate the PHOTO grind less so, Gabier said. “A early stages of growth.” Crippen, SAIC. Two of his former students, lot of the pressure has been lifted. A subdued color palette expressed in prints and innovative the sportswear label started by J. Tamara Malas and Michael Walls, We’re still obviously really busy, but fabrics impressed retailers at the Pitti Immagine Uomo Brand cofounder Susie Crippen, is are joining the company full time. now we’re a little more relaxed.” trade show. PAGE MW1 another brand in his portfolio. Habier and Peters borrowed Bound for a week on Nantucket, Thanks to the Dock Group’s a line from the old Johnny Mathis the designers were looking for- Retail analysts, suppliers, competitors and other support, COTW will have 14 or 15 song “Wild Is the Wind” to name ward to catching up with relatives, market observers reacted Wednesday to George Zimmer’s employees instead of three and their company, and initially their playing dominoes, riding bikes, unceremonious and surprising ouster as executive a production and sourcing infra- efforts were project-based.