Editor in Chief Giuliano Deidda Issue #45 January/February 2017 STYLE Q&A THE TOPIC FASHION & CINEMA TREND ALWAYS LOOK MUSIC BOWS TO UNIFORM MAKES THE SEASON’S GUIDE What Are You FORWARD FASHION THE MAN BY WGSN Looking At A chat with Paul Smith on the occasion A relationship which has changed To each his uniform Traditional menswear meets of his return to Pitti Uomo a lot lately sportswear Page 14 Page 18 Page 20 Page 26 FASHION&CINEMA REFERENCE POINTS Jacket Dolce&Gabbana, shirt Salvatore Ferragamo, bow tie Lanieri An elegant tribute to a famous dance from 1990 inspired by fashion magazines. Page 42 TREND Formal 2.0 Roy Roger’s A new life for the menswear classics in the next Fall Winter season. Page 22 ACCESSORIES Paint Me Down Jude Law in Genius (Photo Courtesy of Eagle Pictures) f fashion as a system for a more cosmopolitan lifestyle. In the moment, recently seen in the film Tie Salvatore Ferragamo finds itself at a moment this panorama, each man’s personal Genius as (and not by chance) the writer From head to toe, the most of a certain confusion, style is free to broaden, in line with the Thomas Wolfe, and above all, as the lead characterful accessories of the theI masculine aesthetic on the other individual demands of a life made up of in the Paolo Sorrentino masterpiece, Spring Summer season. Page 50 hand lives in a most interesting business meetings and social functions. The Young Pope. The actor has, in the dimension of continual evolution. As As a result of this, men are more sure most brilliant way, taken on the most in the past, this change comes from of themselves and are not afraid to dare. varied of roles, from his courageous the street, or rather from daily life. This phenomenon is also apparent today debut as Lord Alfred Douglas – lover Contemporary habits have changed in personalities from cinema and music, to Oscar Wilde – in Wilde (1997), to his for divers reasons, the stereotypes who are at the height of their fame. most recent as Pope Pious XIII, the first POWERED BY and rules of the past are making way Take Jude Law for example; the star of glamourous pope in television. TELA GENOVA 2 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2017 TELA GENOVA REPRODUCES AN HIGH QUALITY PIECE OF ART ACCORDING TO THE TRADITIONAL ITALIAN STYLE. THE SELECTION OF MATERIAL AND AN ACCURATE MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUE MAKE OF EVERY JEANS A VERY FINE EXEMPLAR, UNIQUE AND REVOLUTIONARY IN THE CONTEMPORARY MARKET. ITS HISTORY HAS ALREADY BECOME A MYTH. FASHION ILLUSTRATED JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2017 3 TELA GENOVA REPRODUCES AN HIGH QUALITY PIECE OF ART ACCORDING TO THE TRADITIONAL ITALIAN STYLE. THE SELECTION OF MATERIAL AND AN ACCURATE MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUE MAKE OF EVERY JEANS A VERY FINE EXEMPLAR, UNIQUE AND REVOLUTIONARY IN THE CONTEMPORARY MARKET. ITS HISTORY HAS ALREADY BECOME A MYTH. FASHION ILLUSTRATED 4 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2017 LOVE ABU DHABI Una cultura affascinante, lusso da togliere il fiato, esperienze esclusive, ospitalità calorosa. Abu Dhabi è tutto questo. Images provided by Abu Dhabi Tourism & Culture Authority FASHION ILLUSTRATED JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2017 5 LOVE ABU DHABI FASHION ILLUSTRATED 6 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2017 THE BESPOKE MADE IN ITALY WE FILL FLY TO YOU ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD www.sciamat.com International Private Service: [email protected] SHOWROOM: Via Montenapoleone, 19 Milano | By appointment only FASHION ILLUSTRATED Editor’s Letter JENUARY / FEBRUARY 2017 7 A tribute and a reflection xactly one year ago, the news came of David Bowie’s death, the first of the long list of celebrity passings for which 2016 will be remembered. The loss of a personality Eof this kind engaged the whole world for different reasons. Bowie was in fact, a great all round artist, not only a popstar but a real icon of pop culture. He revolutionised male aesthetic canons back in the years of Glam Rock, by playing with androgeny 40 years ago. If we think that still today, in society and in fashion, we talk about gender, agender, genderful and genderless as if they were a new phenomenon, it gives an idea of the importance of celebrities like him. Sadly, as I was saying, last year was studded with other important losses, which involved the arts, culture and fashion. Among these were many other pop celebrities who were very influential as far as custom and male canons are concerned. Prince for example was the living synthesis of rock and black music, creating for himself an aesthetic world of glamour and sex, making lace and heels virile and surrounding himself with an entourage made up of fascinating people from the most disparate ethnic groups. It was perhaps a heavily charged aesthetic universe, but it was hypnotic and difficult to ignore. Then there was the passing of Pete Burns the lead singer of Dead or Alive who together with Boy George, Marilyn and others had inherited Bowie’s mantle in the ‘80s, imposing a look defined as gender bender, in which the male and female coexisted. Lastly, on Christmas day, George Michael died, the lead singer of Wham! in the ‘80s, the inspiration for the boy bands who would come after, he had imposed a type, the handsome boy next door, highly groomed, tanned and well dressed. At that time the designer Katherine Hamnett collaborated with the duo for the T-shirts worn in the video for Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go, whilst later during his solo career George Michael entered into the network of the House of Versace. The loss of personalities like these is symbolic in an historic moment where fashion and lifestyles are regulated by online marketing and influencers, who are no longer top level artists but ‘normal’ youngsters, who become famous on the web for divers reasons. The record industry, as the sociologist Emanuele Bassetti writes in his article in this issue, seems to have given in to this new reality, in part by reducing the relationship between fashion and music to a mere question of sponsorship and thereby weakening the coherence of the aesthetic content. If once upon a time young people chose their idols to emulate and copy in everything, as we are told in the column Fashion Who Reads by Tommaso Paradiso who as a young man searched for clothes like those worn by Noel Gallagher of Oasis, today on the other hand with instant access and an enormous quantity of stimuli and information, there is nothing for it but to be oneself. To rework all the aesthetic information available and choose the right style demands an exercise in personality to be sure, but it is worth the effort. FASHION ILLUSTRATED Contributors 8 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2017 page 28 Special Guest page 18 page 20 FASHION WHO READS Tommaso Paradiso JIAN DELEON Senior Menswear Editor at WGSN, the world-leading provider in support services to businesses for fashion trends EMANUELE BASSETTI ENRICO MARIA ALBAMONTE based in Brooklyn, DeLeon is one of the principal global experts in fashion, Scientist of communication and sociologist, Born in Rome but based in Milan, he is lifestyle and male trends: an expert working in the field of communication and new a curious and keen observer of trends in street-wear and market evolution media, particularly involved in innovation in in fashion and lifestyle phenomena. and knowledgeable not only about the communicative processes. In academia he has Over time, he has matured a personal principal and most historic brands in collaborated with the University of Bologna for interest in the world of masculine fashion, but in particular about new and the last 11 years lecturing in degree courses on passions and cinema. With a law degree interesting names. He has to his name international and diplomatic science, sociology from Università degli Studi di Roma substantial editorial experience with and communication sciences. At research level La Sapienza, he has been a freelance Media Complex and GQ, and has also he has examined the theme of e-democracy and journalist from 2001 and writes about contributed to Style.com, Business of Thegiornalisti, Tommaso is the author of one of the first Italian studies on fashion, lifestyle and the economy for Fashion and the men’s style website Valet. Paradiso, Marco Antonio the social impact of web 2.0 as an instrument of Gruppo Editoriale l’Espresso. He consulted for the book ‘Contemporary Musella and Marco Primavera, social participation, particularly considering the Menswear: A global guide to independent was formed in Rome in 2009. new generations (L’ e-democracy per i giovani, men’s fashion’ published by Thames & The first two records, conceived Franco Angeli, 2010). At a corporate level, he is a Hudson in 2014. and written in the living room at strategic consultant for branding development home, were self produced and with particular reference to internationally leaning in September 2011 they released public and private enterprise. He is currently Vol.1 and some months later collaborating with the Menabò Group for the Vecchio. The stylistic change in creation of high added value communication direction came about at the end projects, in particular those regarding the fashion of 2013 when they signed with sector. page 50 Foolica and the following year saw the release of Fuoricampo, produced by Matteo Cantaluppi, to great acclaim from critics and public alike. Since November 2014 they have been on tour with Fuoricampo, which has MAURIZIO SAPIA seen them perform across the (STUDIO H2O) whole of Italy, recording new huge crowd numbers, often page 42 Born in Sanremo, after high school page 62 sold-out in the big cities. In 2015 he moved to Milan to do a course in Tommaso Paradiso signed his photography at the IED (European first important collaboration.