CHOO FRESH START SONIA RYKIEL’S NEW CHOO ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, PHARRELL WILLIAMS JULIE DE LIBRAN, LINKS WITH MOYNAT TALKS ABOUT TO CREATE A CAPSULE MIAMI VIBE HER VISION FOR LINE OF BAGS INSPIRED LE BON MARCHÉ IS TO COLLABORATE WITH THE BRAND AND BY VINTAGE STEAM THE WEBSTER MIAMI ON A LIMITED-EDITION HER FIRST SHOW LOCOMOTIVES. PAGE 7 COLLECTION OF ALL-WHITE ITEMS. PAGE 2 SEPT. 29. PAGE 7

PRAISE FEMININE STYLES ’s Seventies Vibe Leaves Buyers High

By WWD STAFF

MILAN — There’s nothing like a touch of the Seventies and the Age of Aquarius to let the sunshine into retailers’ moods. The Seventies vibe all over the Milan runways this season was a hit with retailers, who praised the easy TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY yet feminine designs — pants were a rarity — and a WWD heightened play on Italian craftsmanship. Colorful maxidresses, hip-hugging fl ared trousers, patchworks, fl oral and geometric prints, transparency, , lots of suede — often embellished — and fringe trims were some of the main trends this season. The tinge of retro and the continued development of up-and-coming designers left retailers more upbeat about the Milan collections than they have been in several seasons. A shorter show calendar also helped Floral Arts improve their attitude toward ’s capital. “I strongly feel that Milan is on the up-and-up,” Consuelo Castiglioni’s artful ways swing from said Averyl Oates, fashion director at Galeries plain to intensely decorative. Her spring Lafayette. “Luxury houses and newer designers delivered positive, fresh collections. Despite the collection started in a state of austere chic diffi cult economy, we are projecting an increase in before exploding with ebullient fl orals, spend, also to allow for an injection of new brands in vivid embellishments and intricate cuts. our Italian portfolio.” Ken Downing, senior vice president and fash- Here, a transitional beauty: a dress with ion director at Neiman Marcus, agreed. “I am very a raw slip bodice and decorative enthusiastic about Milan this season. I thought that designers gave us all of the trends that we were see- skirt. Flowers have fi gured prominently ing emerging from New York to . I thought the in Castiglioni’s work from the start. As shows looked fantastic. There is a lot of great prod- part of the house’s 20th-anniversary uct here,” he said. “The nice thing is that there was a consistency around the entire week — this message festivities, the designer opened a of the romantic, free-spirited Bohemian girl. Milan is pop-up fl ower market after her show having a real moment again. It’s nice to see it.” and discussed the project and its Downing cited Marco de Vincenzo, his “top col- lection,” and , Etro and Emilio Pucci charitable endeavors. For more among his favorites. SEE PAGE 12 on Milan, see pages 4 and 5. Study Finds Retailers Lack Mobile Strategies

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

A DISCONNECT between online retailers and their mobile strategies — or lack thereof — might hurt sales during a fast-approaching holiday shopping season. In the 2014 Holiday Retail Audit, released Monday by eBay Enterprise, a commerce and marketing pro- SPRING 2015 vider under the eBay umbrella that works with retail- ers and brands, mobile is still an Achilles heel for retailers — despite it being the fastest-growing com- MILAN merce channel. COLLECTIONS The study looked at 1,000 online retailers with revenues from $5 million to $250 million, with many participants reporting insecurity about mobile strate- gies. The eBay study follows similar ones in recent weeks that have shown many retailers’ mobile strate- gies lag — even as they admit that mobile is driving an increasing percentage of their online revenues. Mobile commerce is forecast to hit $100 billion in sales this year, with one third of all e-commerce pur- chases expected to come from a smartphone or tablet. Despite the growing importance of mobile, the eBay study found that retailers ranked it only ninth in terms of priority for holiday investments. “Two-thirds of online retailers don’t cite mobile as a source of investment, but it’s the fastest-growing area of commerce,” Craig Peasley, head of product marketing at eBay Enterprise, told WWD, noting that 68 percent of online retailers did not express plans for either new or continued investments in mobile for the holiday season. Price, customer service and marketing ranked as the top three areas of investment, followed by PHOTO BY KUBA DABROWSKI SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 WWD.COM Etro Names Giannaccari as GM THE BRIEFING BOX According to Jacopo Etro, Giannaccari will help IN TODAY’S WWD By ALESSANDRA TURRA boost the company’s growth plan. This includes the expansion of specific categories, including foot- MILAN — Etro has tapped Francesco Giannaccari wear, a business which Etro brought back in-house as the company’s new general manager. last April, and fragrances. The role was previously held by Ippolito Etro, who “We also plan to introduce a license for the exited his family’s company last March. His father production of an eyewear line, a category we cur- Gimmo Etro, president of the firm, took on the position rently don’t have,” he said. on an interim basis with the support of Jacopo Etro, the brand’s global communication vice president. “We chose Francesco Giannaccari because over The firm’s growth plan the years he matured an incredible experience in the luxury business and it emerged he is very in includes the expansion sync with the company and our plans for the fu- MANAGEMENT ture,” Jacopo Etro told WWD. “And I also think that due to his experience he has technical skills that of specific categories, MODEL we don’t have in our family.” Most recently, Giannaccari was vice presi- including footwear YORK dent of Tom Ford International and International NEW Franchises. From 1998 to 2005, he served at Sanne Vloet is the subject of Model OF the Group, where he held the positions and fragrances. Call. For more, see WWD.com. of chief executive officer of Gucci Europe and COURTESY then executive vice president of Bottega Veneta. The company, which closed 2013 with turnover Giannaccari was head of international operations of 300 million euros, or $411 million at average ex- at Abercrombie & Fitch from 2005 to 2007. change, also plans to expand its retail presence in The Seventies vibe on Milan’s runways this season was a hit Etro highlighted that the presence of an execu- both Europe and the U.S. The goal is to enter new with retailers, who praised the easy yet feminine designs. PAGE 1 tive who is not part of the family will simplify the cities for the brand such as Dallas, Chicago and decision-making process. Las Vegas. In addition, Etro said that the company A disconnect between online retailers and their mobile “Someone coming from the outside can feel is aiming at increasing its retail business in China, strategies — or lack thereof — might hurt holiday sales. PAGE 1 more free to express his opinion with no embar- and Singapore through a focused mar- rassment,” he said. keting and branding strategy. The Tommy Hilfiger Group has elevated Avery Baker and Gary Sheinbaum to new executive positions. PAGE 6

Ksubi owner Breakwater Group looks to breathe new life into Le Bon Marché, Webster Team for Line the Australian and streetwear label. PAGE 6

Sonia Rykiel’s new artistic director, Julie de Libran, is to By JOELLE DIDERICH parade her first collection on Monday during Fashion Week. PAGE 7 PARIS — Le Bon Marché has linked with The Webster Miami Pharrell Williams has teamed with French leather goods firm for a limited-edition collection Moynat to create a capsule range of handbags. PAGE 7 due to go on sale early next year at the French department Benjamin Moore has teamed with the Council of Fashion store in Paris and the Florida Designers of America to highlight the influences of color, design boutique. and entrepreneurship in America. PAGE 8

Laure Hériard Dubreuil, founder and chief executive The Chinese consumer has gone global, according to a new officer of The Webster Miami, book charting the ascendancy of the country’s spenders. PAGE 9 and Le Bon Marché have com- missioned brands to create Five months after taking office and becoming the first female all-white items, which will be available from mid-January to mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo is getting ready for Paris Fashion ’’ PAGE 10 mid-February. Week. The initiative harks back to Le Bon Marché founder Aristide ’s cat Choupette assumes a more fearsome, Boucicaut, who in 1873 invented cartoon guise as Monster Choupette in a new accessories what has become a tradition in capsule collection under Lagerfeld’s signature label. PAGE 11 French department stores: A month-long promotion on “white” Ellen Tracy has tapped actress Paula Patton to be its new face items, traditionally bed and brand ambassador. PAGE 11 and home wares, to attract cus- tomers into stores after the holi- ON WWD.COM day shopping rush. Patrice Wagner, chairman and RIOS CAMILO ceo of Le Bon Marché, said the MODEL CALL: Hailing from the small town of Donkerbroek in the venture between the two retail- Netherlands, 19-year-old model Sanne Vloet is in the midst of her ers was based on “elective affini- PHOTO BY breakout runway season. For more, see WWD.com.

The entrepreneur, who fre- quently works with brands on I’m wearing white every day. It’s that limited-edition items for her FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA store, said she leveraged those @ WWD.com/social white heat, the sun reflecting off the relationships to help recruit participating fashion houses. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. white sand.…Miami is a very light city. These will be revealed closer to WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. the date of the event, but include COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. leading French luxury brands. VOLUME 208, NO. 62. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, — LAURE HÉRIARD DUBREUIL, THE WEBSTER MIAMI Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and “Usually, I develop an ex- two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine clusive product with one or two Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, ties,” noting it was unprecedent- Subsequently, Le Bon Marché brands per season for women or Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, ed for both Le Bon Marché and will be featured prominently in men, going up to three or four NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West The Webster to have a presence the lobby and on the second floor during Art Basel,” she said. “But Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, outside their walls. of The Webster store on Collins we’ve never done anything on Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. “This capsule collection is Avenue in Miami’s South Beach this scale, so it’s a big first.” Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address an opportunity to offer our cus- district, where the capsule col- For Hériard Dubreuil, the changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. tomers a unique experience. We lection will also be sold. color white connotes not winter, If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with are innovating, even as we pay Hériard Dubreuil said she but a sunny day in Miami, where your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be homage to our founder Aristide was a fan of the department she described the heat and hu- mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request Boucicaut,” he said. store, where she has shopped midity in September as stifling. to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse Bearing the tag “Le Bon for everything from groceries “As a matter of fact, I’m wear- permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Marché Rive Gauche & The to kid’s clothes for Marcel, her ing white every day,” she said. Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we Webster Miami,” the products ini- son with artist Aaron Young. “It “It’s that white heat, the sun re- believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, ’’ Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR tially will be available in Paris, was totally organic,” she said of flecting off the white sand, the DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED where the windows of Le Bon the collaboration. “Everything Art Deco buildings in pastel TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, Marché will be dressed to look happened in a very natural and tones against a white background. UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND like the lobby of The Webster. fluid way.” Miami is a very light city.” OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. FASHION MEETS TECHNOLOGY ISSUE

ISSUE DATE: 10/ 27 | CLOSE DATE: 10/ 13

BONUS DISTRIBUTION WWD Apparel & Retail CEO Summit

THE LATEST TRENDS AND INNOVATIONS IN FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY WITH A FOCUS ON WEARABLE TECH, SOCIAL INFLUENCERS, AND MUST- HAVE APPS IN BEAUTY AND STYLE. .

CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, AT 212.630.3935 OR [email protected] 4 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 MSGM Trussardi Milan C

THE ITALIAN SEASON ENDED ON A WHIMSICAL NOTE.

MSGM: Freedom, and its sartorial expression, has been top-of-mind for Milan designers this season, including MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti. He approached the idea via a literary tool, Jonathan Franzen’s novel “Freedom.” Backstage before the show, he cited the book, which he recently read in Italian, as the inspiration for his collection — particularly Franzen’s nods to birds and music. The youthful silhouettes and playful patterns echoed the theme nicely. Giorgetti had whimsical bird motifs on many of the looks, including the back of a collarless coat and sequined around the torso of a sporty shift, or turned into an allover pattern, such as on an embroidered black shirt shown over a navy T-shirt dress. The sophisticated foliage-and-bird slipdresses with tulle overlays signaled the contemporary designer’s confidence and possible readiness to move to the next level — which made the presence of LVMH executives at the show worth noting. They could be interested in investing in this buzzy young brand. Or maybe the corporate honchos are scouting the designer’s penchant for prints for Pucci. For the time being, Giorgetti remains a free agent.

Blugirl

FOR MORE SPRING COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway. DELPHINE ACHARD BECCARIA BY MAESTRI; DAVIDE GIANNONI; TRUSSARDI, AND RICHMOND BY GIOVANNI BLUGIRL JOUR LE PHOTOS BY AU

Luisa Beccaria MSGM, ROCCOBAROCCO, WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 5 Roccobarocco WWD.COM Milan C ollectionsSpring 2015 Trussardi: “Go with what you know” seems to be Gaia Trussardi’s game plan for making an apparel business out of her house’s leather heritage. The overwhelming majority of her spring collection was leather — perforated suede, ostrich, napa and elaphe leather — dyed in the bourgeois tones of burgundy and navy and good old-fashioned tan, with some green and cobalt to brighten. The shapes, too, followed the tried and true with a slight athletic slant. Trussardi’s show notes mentioned her quest for “an Olympian ideal.” Car coats, moto jackets, tennis dresses and skirts, bombers and utility shirts were all done in some sort of classic skin — Trussardi didn’t go the route of technical tricks. Maybe she should have. Looks such as a cable-knit or a little polo top emphasized that this was a wardrobe of country club clothes, costly and cautious.

Blugirl: Just when it seemed flower crowns had enjoyed their day in the sun, Anna Molinari appeared to give them a second lease on life. The invitation for her Blugirl display featured a model with a wreath of fresh blooms on her head, but thankfully, the now-clichéd festival headgear was left out of the actual show. The designer mined the theme in other ways, sending Marni Talks Flowers,Charity out a freewheeling mix of princess dresses, peasant John shirts, plaid and camouflage shirts and distressed Richmond CONSUELO CASTIGLIONI STAGED A ONE-DAY MARKET TO FETE denim fit for parading around Glastonbury or Coachella HER COMPANY’S 20TH ANNIVERSARY. — ALESSANDRA TURRA (models walked on a fresh grass runway to drive home the idea). On Sunday, right after showing its spring collection, Marni opened a In some cases, the concept gelled. Lushly temporary flower market at Milan’s historic Rotonda della Besana. embroidered shifts made from two panels loosely The Milanese company, which in December 2012 sold a majority stake tied at the sides were worn over embroidered HotPants, to ’s OTB, set up counters selling fresh flowers and plants. In while a white broderie anglaise dress with netting panels addition, Marni was selling a range of customized products, including soft had an ingenue charm. plastic vase holders available in seven sizes and 11 archival patterns. The more generic combinations — say, a pink lace Other items included shopping bags, Japanese porcelain vases, a babydoll with a camouflage shirt tied around the waist gardening apron and chairs and animal sculptures made by a group of — were less alluring. One could not help but think that Colombian women using metal frames and colored PVC. young women are already throwing together similar There were also pieces for children, including aprons hand-painted in looks at a fraction of the price. Zambia and small bags of gardening tools. The event kicked off celebrations for the 20th anniversary of the label, Luisa Beccaria: Now trending: gardens. Luisa Beccaria founded by Consuelo and Gianni Castiglioni, creative director and chief flirted with landscape design — just like Marni a few executive officer, respectively. hours before, Tod’s the other day and Thom Browne Here, Consuelo Castiglioni and her daughter Carolina, director of special way back in New York — staging her models like projects, discuss the market and other so-called “Marni Prisma” projects, as garden nymphs in the arches of a well-tended Milanese well as the past and future of the company. courtyard. Ambassadors of Beccaria’s maiden romance, the girls wore pretty, watercolor maxidresses in WWD: What’s the idea behind the project, which seems quite unusual to graphic lace and embroidered tulle, their preciousness celebrate such a milestone? countered by a lean, sophisticated silhouette. Consuelo Castiglioni: “We didn’t want to do a traditional celebration but something different. Traditional things don’t fit our mentality, since we like Roccobarocco: Rocco Barocco mined Ancient Roman the unusual. influences for his collection, which blended women’s “The idea behind the project started from my personal passion for flower and men’s designs. A draped white chiffon gown featured markets and we also wanted to do something open to the public.” chunky gold chain shoulder straps ending in a lion’s head Carolina Castiglioni: “Flowers have always been part of our collections and — the latter also appearing on statement accessories like flowers are strictly linked with the idea of something natural, spontaneous, boxy handbags, necklaces and chain belts. unique — all elements of our brand identity.” The designer reprised last season’s black-and-white mosaic pattern with items including a micro-fringed WWD: Why did you call the project “Marni Prisma”? skirt paired with a white jacket featuring black Au Jour Carolina: “The Prisma is at the base of the project — the idea is to show stencil patterns inspired by tribal tattoos. More in tune Le Jour Marni’s multifaceted identity from different angles through different events. with his theme were the dancing figures that appeared “In Hong Kong during Art Basel, we will create another flower market on a short black dress with textured gold trim. that will be different from the Milanese one, while in Tokyo we will re- create a bazaar where we will sell a range of [reissues] of the brand’s most John Richmond: This season, John Richmond turned the iconic pieces. Then, in May in Venice, during the Art Biennale, we will volume of his rock ’n’ roll symphony down a notch, present a project in collaboration with two Belgian artists. composing a more polished collection than in the past. “Marni Prisma is also a charity project we developed for The Vimala Stepping away from an overtly sexy mood, he focused Association, the company with which we have been collaborating for many on sharp silhouettes for dresses, tops and little zip years on our charity Christmas projects. With the proceeds from the events jackets with organza sleeves and embroidered details. in Milan, Hong Kong and Tokyo, we will finance work for the restoration of He treated leather with a soft hand for a biker jacket an orphanage with a school hosting 50 disabled Tibetan children in India.” and shorts worked in laser-cut napa with a lacelike effect, and took a casual attitude to dressed-up fabrics, WWD: Talking about the anniversary, what has changed over these 20 years? including satin bomber jackets in bright tones of red Consuelo: “Marni has always continued to explore new things but at the and turquoise. same time, we have been sticking to our DNA, which is strongly based on an experimental approach.” Au Jour Le Jour: Designers Diego Marquez and Mirko Carolina: “We always do things we like, so our loyalty to a certain vision and Fontana launched the social media hashtag #AttackNo1 our coherence come so naturally.” to mark their second runway show for Au Jour Le Jour, Consuelo: “ Yo u have to consider that our collections are not the fruit of with a collection inspired by a popular Japanese manga calculated decisions. We have a more instinctive approach. Twenty years about high school volleyball players. ago, I would have never imagined we’d arrive at this point.” Models ambled down a catwalk done up as a volleyball court in outfits plastered with “kawaii” WWD: Have things changed since Renzo Rosso acquired a stake in your (“lovable,” “cute” or “adorable,” in Japanese) images company? including dolls, kittens and lips — the latter a signature Consuelo: “Nothing at all. Renzo understood where our story is rooted. of the brand. Even if our approach is completely different from his group’s, he truly The patterns were printed on technical , as in a understands our working method.” pastel green Windbreaker with a fruit design, or woven in metallic jacquard, which gave the humorous designs a WWD: What are the goals for the future? more sophisticated spin. Sparkling sequins added dazzle Consuelo: “The goal for the future is to continue in this direction with to distressed jeans and a navy short-sleeve sports . this freedom to keep creating things following my instinct. Next year, we But mostly, these were carefree clothes designed for will move our Milan flagship from Via della Spiga to a new location in a a young, fun-loving customer. Who else could get away courtyard on Via Montenapoleone, and we will also open stores in other with a pastel yellow jumpsuit printed with ice creams? cities, including San Francisco.”

w23a004a(5);8.indd 2 9/22/14 7:39 PM 09222014194129 6 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 Ascena Sales and Profits Ksubi Making Return in U.S. Decline in 4th Quarter By KRISTI GARCED sales off 4 percent and e- By ARNOLD J. KARR commerce up 13 percent. KSUBI IS LIKE the little engine that could. Gross margin improved to Cofounded in 1999 in by Dan Single, ASCENA RETAIL Group 54.7 percent of sales from George Gorrow, Paul Wilson, Oska Wright and later, Inc. weathered larger-than- 54.6 percent a year ago, al- Gareth Moody — none of whom are presently as- expected declines in its though gross margin dol- sociated with the brand, having moved on to other fourth-quarter sales and lars declined 1.1 percent to projects — the Australian denim and streetwear profits as its Justice and $647.2 million label developed a cult following for its irreverent, Lane Bryant units struggled Ascena’s projections for its street-meets-surf sensibility, its distressed denim with lower comparable sales new year also fell below Wall and its signature cross-stitch embroidered logo. At and weak traffic. Street’s expectations, with its peak, the brand was worn by the likes of Kate David Jaffe, president and EPS guidance of between 90 Moss, Madonna and Nicole Richie. chief executive officer of the cents and $1 below the $1.25 But Ksubi endured a roller coaster of legal Mahwah, N.J.-based specialty consensus estimate. The ex- and financial woes over the years, including retailer, noted in a conference pectation for sales is that a trademark infringement dispute in 2006 (in call that, while weak demand comps will be flat to down in which the brand was forced to change its name remains the principal im- the low-single digits in the from Tsubi to Ksubi), before entering into ad- pediment to boosting results, first half of the year, with a ministration in 2010 and ultimately collapsing congestion at U.S. ports has low-single-digit increase in last December after failed rescue bids by former added an additional impedi- the back half resulting in shareholder Harry Hodge and Bleach Group Inc. Eero Gathers, Michael Moshi, Lisa ment to sales. “flat to modest positive” comp The brand shuttered its only international out- Guadagno and Purdom Thomas. “We’re airing in key mer- growth for fiscal 2015. post — in Manhattan’s NoLIta neighborhood — chandise at most of our “We don’t see the market as back in 2010, and all six boutiques brands for a mailer or a floor having markedly improved,” in Australia were closed in cess. Sometimes when you have re- set or what have you, so February 2013, along with its ally great creatives, they’re not the it is a factor,” he said. e-commerce site. best at business.” In the three months Now, after being acquired “But you want that rebel- ended July 26, in- by the L.A.-based Breakwater lious spirit in your jeans,” added come dropped 47.3 Group in July 2013, the brand is Gathers. “That’s what denim’s percent to $15.7 mil- $15.7M getting its ninth life — with roots about.” Gathers had been working lion, or 10 cents a di- planted firmly in the U.S. Ksubi, at Koral, another L.A.-based denim luted share, from $29.8 FOURTH-QUARTER NET INCOME AT which is relaunching for spring, brand, when he got the call from million, or 18 cents, in ASCENA RETAIL GROUP INC. will be produced and headquar- Moshi, and said he jumped at the op- the year-ago period. tered in Los Angeles by a small portunity to help revive Ksubi. Excluding impairment team: Michael Moshi, a longtime For spring, Gathers said to expect charges and integra- manufacturer specializing made in the same edginess that made the denim tion-related costs, earnings Jaffe said, although he added American production, as president; brand an originator in its time, but up- per share was 13 cents, below that he saw encouraging signs Eero Gathers, a denim designer dated with new plays with color, pat- the 18 cents expected, on av- at the more troubled brands. veteran formerly of Seven For All terns, shapes and materials. “It still erage, by analysts covering Justice is gaining traction Mankind and Genetic Denim, as de- walks with the same swagger, but it the firm. with the extension of its size sign director, and Purdom Thomas, is grown up now,” he said. The hard- Sales dropped 1.3 percent scale to include size 5, with its who spent five-and-a-half years on ware is brand-new from a German to $1.18 billion from $1.2 bil- dual-gender concept Brothers Ksubi’s U.S. staff as sales and mer- supplier, the denim is sourced from lion, with the steepest drop in and in its efforts to reduce the chandising director. Rounding out Italy and Japan, and the fits have sales coming from the Justice number of promotional events the sales team is Lisa Guadagno, been slightly reworked. The collec- brand, down 7.5 percent to and improve margins. as well as associate designer Jane tion, which includes a variety of jeans, $286.1 million and off 10 per- Lane Bryant experienced Bang and longtime Ksubi creative jackets, T-shirts and rompers for women cent on a comparable basis. increases in conversion and av- Apples Ryan-Russo. A look from Ksubi. and jeans, T-shirts and swim shorts for Lane Bryant sales fell 3.2 per- erage selling price in the year’s The consensus on Ksubi’s history men, will hit U.S. retailers in February, cent to $284.3 million, with final quarter with strength in among its newly appointed executives is that it was with price points ranging from $120 to $280. Though comps off 2 percent. Sales Cacique Intimates and strong a fiercely hip and original brand riddled with mis- Thomas declined to mention which retailers will rose 4.8 percent at Maurices, results in both activewear and management. “They were a bunch of wild, young stock Ksubi, he seemed eager to gain back their to $227.1 million, and in- denim, Jaffe said. Australians,” said Thomas of the brand’s original trust with a focus on quality and consistency. creased 1 percent on a comp For the full year, net in- founders. “Ksubi came from the right place. It “The buyers have given us all these analogies, basis, while Dress Barn was come fell 11.8 percent to wasn’t some guy that sat down at his desk in his saying, ‘I love Ksubi, but I went through all these up 1.3 percent to $293.8 mil- $133.4 million, or 81 cents suit and tie and said, ‘I’m gonna build a $30 million ups and downs and I feel like I might be coming lion on flat comps. a diluted share, while rev- brand.’ It was three friends that were interested in back to an abusive relationship,’” Thomas said. The Catherines unit saw enues gained 1.6 percent to music, art, clothing — and then all of a sudden, a “And we understand those concerns. We explained sales rise 3.3 percent to $91.1 $4.79 billion. brand emerged. They found themselves on top of to them that there were a lot of missing ingredients million with comps up 7 percent. Year-end inventories stood a brand that became very popular and grew very [in Ksubi’s past], and they’re seeing now that those Overall, comps were down at $553.2 million, 2.3 percent quickly, and they weren’t quite prepared for it. ingredients are back in place. The reaction so far 2 percent with same-store above their prior-year level. There was the pressure that came with the suc- has been very, very strong,” he said. New Roles for Baker, Sheinbaum at Hilfiger

prove the group’s worldwide Hilfiger’s business in Latin By LISA LOCKWOOD coordination across its product America includes partnerships divisions, retail channels and with American Sportswear SA, NEW YORK — The Tommy geographic markets, as well as licensee of the brand in South Hilfiger Group, which is wholly its brand message internation- America (excluding Brazil), owned by PVH Corp., has el- ally. She joined Hilfiger in 1988 Central America and the evated Avery Baker and Gary and held various executive posts Caribbean, and Grupo Axo, the Sheinbaum to new executive in the European and U.S. offices licensee in Mexico. Sheinbaum positions. before being named chief mar- will also collaborate with Baker, who continues as keting officer in 2011. Baker has Inbrands SA, its joint-venture chief marketing officer, will add relocated to Amsterdam in her partner in Brazil. The venture the title of chief brand officer. new role, and will continue to was established in January 2013. Sheinbaum, chief executive offi- work from both Hilfiger head- “With over 17 years of experi- cer, North America, will become quarters in Amsterdam and ence with Tommy Hilfiger, Avery ceo of Tommy Hilfiger Americas. New York. has incredible expertise in her Both executives, whose roles Sheinbaum will oversee field and a deep knowledge of are effective immediately, re- Hilfiger’s Latin American busi- the Tommy Hilfiger business,” Gary Sheinbaum Avery Baker port to Daniel Grieder, ceo of ness in addition to continuing said Grieder. “She is uniquely Tommy Hilfiger and ceo, PVH to lead its North American di- positioned to drive the busi- Europe. vision. Sheinbaum was named ness forward in an increasingly Hilfiger USA in 1995, Gary has gic expertise and inspirational Baker’s appointment reflects ceo, North America, in 2009, competitive landscape, and will been a passionate brand advo- leadership extended to Latin PVH’s increased focus on the and was involved in forging the work across our organization to cate and played an instrumental America, as we further focus global alignment, evolution and Macy’s partnership as well as help us maintain and grow our role in the growth of the retail on developing this important elevation of the Tommy Hilfiger passing the $1 billion mark in leadership position.” business in our home market. region for the company,” added brand. Her role will be to im- North American retail revenues. “Since joining Tommy I am excited to have his strate- Grieder. WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 7

WWD.COM De Libran Preps for Debut

French call a “declinaison.” ets with a sensual, feminine By MILES SOCHA “ Yo u have to have the dress look — and a unique approach to the knee, the top with the to accessories, which the found- PARIS — “Look, there’s Patti sleeves,” she explained. “It’s er codesigned with her sister Smith,” Julie de Libran re- really creating a whole sea- Danielle. De Libran found that marked at the Café’’ de Flore in son’s wardrobe.” the Rykiels often hid good luck Paris, still a magnet for the cul- De Libran provided few other charms, like a ladybug, for ex- tural elite, as the American mu- hints about the show, while not- ample, in bags, heightening sician and writer slipped past. ing that interplays of masculine their personality. Sonia Rykiel’s new artistic di- and feminine garments would “The bags were always part of rector, who is to parade her first be part of the Rykiel legacy she the outfit. It wasn’t about push- collection on Monday during Paris would represent. ing the bag. It was part of the sil- Fashion Week, was seated at the Born in Aix-en-Provence, houette, something supple that founder’s regular table, discussing de Libran moved to California worked with the outfit,” she said. her approach to a Left Bank fash- when she was 8 years old, and While knitwear is sure to re- ion house that stirs strong memo- she cherishes memories of her main a foundation of the house, ries, and seems to already fit her mother, an interior decorator, “denim is also important, leather, like a favorite sweater. dressed in groovy Seventies bathing suits, lingerie, fur. There “It’s like an institution in by Kenzo, Yves Saint are so many categories,” she said. , like my experience at Laurent and Sonia Rykiel. De Libran’s overhaul of the house is to extend to retail, and she’s working with architects to develop a new boutique concept I feel very confident about it — being for the Paris flagship that will be rolled out to other units, hinting a woman designing for women, at projects in London, Japan and New York. She plans to amplify which is what Sonia did in her time. the store’s original mission as a meeting place like the Flore, and — JULIE DE LIBRAN, SONIA RYKIEL with cultural components. She said that a perfume is on

Louis Vuitton,” she said, re- “Ease and comfort, with a her wish list for future projects, MAÎTRE ferring to her six-year stint glamor to it and a feminine touch” and that she would also oversee as studio director of women’s is how the statuesque blonde the design teams for the Sonia ready-to-wear under Vuitton’s described her memories of the By second line, children’s wear DOMINIQUE then-artistic director Marc brand, and the attributes she and home collections. BY Julie de Libran at the Café de Flore. Jacobs. “I feel very confident wishes to exalt with her designs. “Even the home collection, PHOTO about it — being a woman de- “It’s not a conceptual brand,” she I feel like there’s huge poten- signing for women, which is said. “It’s so timeless.” tial,” she said. “I’m having a lot cer of First Heritage Brands, fund is looking at five more for what Sonia did in her time.” For example, Rykiel is known of fun with it.” described Rykiel as “a global 2015. Loubier said Sonia By “is Dressed in a military green for the sailor sweater, a cheerful Before Vuitton, de Libran brand” with a “strong identity” developing very strongly,” but jumpsuit with a mannish gray and unmistakably French gar- worked beside Miuccia Prada that is ripe for development. noted that, unlike the main line, blazer propped on her shoul- ment that recently surged in to help establish the Italian firm “It’s Julie’s first show, and we it started from smaller numbers. ders, de Libran said she hopes popularity and is sure to be a with celebrity and event dress- are very confident; it puts us in “At Sonia Rykiel, we have the to return the house to its roots part of de Libran’s universe. “It ing. Her résumé also includes a position to accelerate Rykiel’s right locations already — we are as a purveyor of fashions that has to be a good stripe,’’ though,” stints at Versace, Jean-Charles de first line,” which he said is built in Saint Germain and Faubourg were approachable, yet immedi- she noted with a smile. Castelbajac and Gianfranco Ferré. on “high quality, but clear and Saint Honoré among others; we ate and desirable. Having pored through the She takes over the design easy silhouettes that are imme- can add some more once the De Libran brings to the task clothing archive and innumera- reins at Rykiel from Geraldo da diately understood.” product is there,” said Loubier. a comfort level designing for ble books about Rykiel since join- Conceiçao, a Canadian designer The executive noted he ex- The main line recently a global behemoth with stores ing the house last May, de Libran who logged three fashion shows pects orders for spring “to in- opened new wholesale doors in around the globe, and a varied marveled that Rykiel left so many for the house following its 2012 crease substantially.” Hong Kong and Bloomingdale’s clientele. To wit: Her first col- “codes,” more than she could acquisition by First Heritage Currently, expansion efforts New York this year, with a unit lection is not only what will be ever fit in a single collection. Brands, previously known as are focused on Sonia By. A total at Bloomingdale’s in Boston to paraded on the runway, but a One of her lesser-known Fung Brands Ltd. of nine stores are to open by the follow in the coming months. showroom full of interpreta- innovations was using satin- Jean-Marc Loubier, presi- end of this year, five of which — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS tions and variations — what the backed crepe for unlined jack- dent and chief executive offi- will be in Asia. The investment FROM PAULINA SZMYDKE

Nair hinted at ongoing col- Pharrell Williams Collaborates With Moynat laborations with Williams, eager to open up Moynat to experimen- PARIS — Bringing yet more The collaboration repre- bag emblazoned with hand- around 10,000 euros, or $12,830 tation and nudge it in a younger, whimsy to fashion, Pharrell sents new territory for Moynat, painted tools and struck a rap- at current exchange, the resin more experimental direction. Williams has teamed with French an almost-forgotten 19th- port with Moynat creative direc- bags boast a brass smokestack, “Why stick to leather?” he asked. leather goods firm Moynat to cre- century trunk-maker revived tor Ramesh Nair. side rods and steam-dome clasp. “Fun, but refined” was how ate a capsule range of handbags three years ago by luxury titan Turns out trains were on the Nair said Williams nearly Moynat chief executive officer shaped like vintage steam locomo- Bernard Arnault and mainly fo- minds of both men: Williams, Guillaume Davin described tives — caboose included. cused on ladylike bags in luxury a fan of Forties musical “The the project, explaining that The Train Bag, in hand- leathers and exotic skins. Harvey Girls,” zeroed in on a exceptional craft and creativ- tooled acrylic resin or hand- According to Moynat, Sarah 1905 trunk label depicting a fu- ity define luxury, and not only carved ebony, is to be unveiled Andelman, Colette’s creative turistic train, while Nair had the raw materials. at Colette on Oct. 13 and arrive a director and purchasing di- week later at Moynat boutiques rector, introduced Williams to in Paris and London. Ancillary the brand. products include silk scarves The “Happy” singer prompt- and leather pouches with train ly toured its Paris atelier, or- motifs in marquetry. dered an extra-large Pauline

Pharrell Williams with a Moynat bag. A leather pouch with a design in marquetry leather; A scarf bearing a train design and a 1905 trunk label.

been rocking to “Hear My Train welled up at the sight of the Nair said he sourced a spe- a Comin’” by Jimi Hendrix. first prototype, and immediately cialty atelier in Italy to carve In the collaboration, Nair spied donned it cross-body style with each train, which takes three a way for Moynat to continue its its chain strap. days, while the leather interior legacy of using unusual materials “Every grown-up guy has a is inserted in Paris. An ebony — such as its use of gutta-percha child inside,” Nair said, charac- version is to retail for about sap to seal trunks, patented in terizing trains as a potent sym- 3,200 euros, or $4,105. 1854 — and to enter a new catego- bol of nostalgia — and luxury, as Williams has collaborated with ry of business: minaudières. a recent Orient Express exhibi- an array of fashion brands recently, Slated to retail in a num- tion at the Arab World Institute including Moncler, G-Star, Adidas bered limited-edition for in Paris attested. and Comme des Garçons. — M.S. 8 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014

Maria Study Finds Mobile Strategies Lagging Cornejo

{Continued from page one} That’s why you see all the mass retailers getting inventory, fulfillment, discount and promotions, really sharp on mobile.” e-commerce experience, merchandising, mobile Organizations that are less reliant on promo- commerce and gifting. tion and have private-label or exclusive product “Most are focusing on Web sites as primary ex- might have a little more protection in the mobile periences for consumers, but the reality is if you price race, Sambar explained, noting that could PHAM/BFANYC.COM look at trends, more and more people are getting be why retailers might prioritize other initiatives smartphones and using them 80 percent of the — like customer service or marketing — before ANGELA day,” Peasley said. nailing down a solid mobile strategy. Narciso Rodriguez The new iPhone 6 and 6 Plus that hit stores last “It can take three to five years for a company and Thomas Tolan week — and created lines around the block of con- to build a fully realized omnichannel experience. PHOTOS BY sumers desperate to get their hands on one — will Planning out multiyear upgrades for technology likely disrupt the app and mobile commerce’’ ex- and mobile is definitely in there. Whether it falls Vanidades Fetes Style Icons perience — especially the latter’s larger screen — in year one or two, or three or four, depends on and Peasley cautioned that retailers and brands where you compete,” Sambar said. wore a noticeable diamond must be ready for this. He cited Starbucks as best in class when it By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG stud earring. Aside from hav- “Brands have acknowledged that they cannot comes to mobile, but for the retail and apparel ing sold 45 million albums, the compete with Amazon in this space — it’s where world, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. has led the charge NEW YORK — Like Thalía, singer-songwriter-author-ac- they see Amazon being the most competitive with, with respect to mobile adoption. The retailer Rita Moreno and several of tress-entrepreneur told WWD but [they’re] also not putting the money behind it,” even created an entire arm of the company — this years’s Vanidades Icons she can’t wait to launch her Peasley added. @WalmartLabs — whose sole responsibility is of Style winners, Narciso new Thalía Sodi collection at More than half of these retailers view Amazon innovation in the digital space. Nordstrom Inc. Rodriguez could not accept Macy’s in February. as a direct competitor, with 60 percent citing the is also a leader in the space, as well as Macy’s the honor without acknowl- “We’re really going nuts e-tail giant as possessing a competitive edge in Inc., which said last week it will embrace a slew edging the past. with that and designing ev- mobile commerce. of omnichannel and mobile initiatives. Macy’s During cocktails at erything,” she said. While mobile lags, retailers are confident and Bloomingdale’s will both start to use Apple Thursday’s Mandarin Iconic Woman about something as they head into the holiday Inc.’s new mobile payment system, Apple Pay, Oriental event, the de- of Style Lifetime season: customer service. Nearly a quarter, or as well as roll out a new mobile wallet and test signer said the 85-year- Achievement Award 24 percent, of online re- same-day deliveries. old magazine is part of winner Moreno also tailers said customer ser- Joe Laszlo, Interactive every Latin household. spoke of her younger vice was the part of their Advertising Bureau senior “Growing up, Vanidades self. She recalled how, infrastructure they were Two-thirds of online director, mobile market- was really the doorway 77 years ago, she was most confident about. ing center of excellence, to fashion, glamour and a five-year-old liv- Fulfillment, inventory, retailers don’t cite mobile agreed with Sambar. the world outside. It’s ing in a tenement 100 in-store experience and Asked how lagging mo- always been sort of part blocks north with her online/app experience as a source of investment, bile adoption might affect of the family,” he said. Puerto Rican mother, round out the top five. retail as a whole leading “So to be recognized a self-taught seam- Data showed that 15 per- into holiday, he predict- here tonight, having stress who worked cent of retailers cited mo- but it’s the fastest-growing ed that the bigger retail learned about fash- in sweatshops. The bile commerce as the area brands already well-opti- ion and to having pair also made of the business they are area of commerce. mized in mobile — from seen Oscar’s work, hand-cut crepe-pa- least confident in — tied — CRAIG PEASLEY, Wal-Mart and Amazon to Carolina’s work per flowers to sell with promotion margin. department stores like and Saint Laurent’s Thalía to Woolworth’s for Beyond mobile, three EBAY ENTERPRISE Macy’s and Nordstrom — work in the pages of extra money, and key areas identified in the are primed for success in Vanidades as a child is pret- Moreno reveled in styl- research include consum- the channel. ty lovely, pretty amazing.” ing her paper dolls. “Fashion er data and privacy (this becomes more impor- “If you’re looking for something that’s only Along with his presenter, is an astonishing gift. It has the tant to retailers once they cross the $50 million in available from one digital storefront — it doesn’t Candy Pratts Price, Rodriguez ability to lift a Cinderella from revenue threshold, where 21 percent of retailers matter if they are mobile or not. But for the whole had the support of his husband the ashes,” she said. “If clothes in this bracket reported having had a breach of range of goods you can buy from Amazon or Wal- Thomas Tolan, and fellow de- make the person, then it is security), local fulfillment and global expansion. Mart, smaller retailers risk losing sales,” he said. signer Maria Cornejo with fashion that imagines what she Priority markets for those surveyed are Canada, EBay Enterprise’s holiday audit mirrors findings her daughter Bibi. Fashion might become.” the U.K., China, Australia and Mexico. from research put out by the IAB earlier this month, Modeling & Humanitarianism Other honorees were Arts For Al Sambar, retail strategist at Kurt Salmon, which found that only four of 100 leading apparel award winner Arlenis Sosa, her winner Domingo Zapata, Mujer the investment in mobile isn’t so black and white. and accessories brands studied received a perfect presenter Edmundo Castillo Vanidades’ Award winner There’s a spectrum: from the big-box retailers that mobile score: Tiffany & Co., Victoria’s Secret, The and Icon of Style Award for Roselyn Sanchez, Icon of Style historically relied on circulars to build traffic that North Face and Pink. Leading brands like DKNY, Music & Entertainment win- Award for Excellence in Lifestyle have now turned to mobile to communicate promo- Versace and Reebok don’t even have mobile sites. ner Thalía upped the style set, winner chef Douglas Rodriguez, tion, to department stores and fashion brands that Laszlo said five parameters were used to mea- as did Barcelona’s David Villa, and Film & TV as an Emerging might use the mobile experience a bit differently. sure ’’a brand’s “M-score,” including whether or the Icon of Style for Sports who Actor winner Diego Boneta. Also, because mobile was largely thought of as not a site had a store locator, tap-to-call phone a marketing vehicle early on, funding for this por- numbers, optimized search, a link to the full desk- tion of the business was allotted by the chief mar- top site and a link to the app on the Apple App Pure Barre Launches Attire keting officer. Sambar acknowledged that mobile Store (if applicable). is still a great place for marketing, and when done Admitting he is unsure why bolstering mobile NEW YORK — Pure Barre, a able to other retailers, said a right, a powerful companion to the in-store expe- strategies ranks so low on retailers’ to-do lists, total-body workout that uses spokeswoman. First-year pro- rience — but its role has evolved into one that’s Laszlo said one possibility is that if organizations the ballet bar, which has more jections weren’t disclosed. increasingly transaction-based. For those winning with working e-commerce find that their sites than 250 studios in the U.S., has “Pure Barre is more than in the space today, mobile can hardly be limited to render on a mobile device, they might not be in a launched its first clothing line, just a workout; it’s a lifestyle, an organization’s marketing team. rush to put mobile first. Pure Barre by Splits59. The col- so expanding our offerings “It is a hard prioritization to make,” Sambar “That ‘Oh, I’ll use my desktop site because it’s lection will be sold exclusively into a clothing line that reflect- said. “The more you have to compete on price, good enough’ attitude is not the right attitude to in studios and on its Web site. ed that was the obvious next [the more] mobile becomes incredibly important. succeed in mobile,” he said. It will be distributed to the step,” said Amy Tankersley, studios starting next week, and vice president of product and will be sold online beginning retail strategy at Pure Barre. in early October. Benjamin Moore Brushes Up With CFDA The collection is comprised of seven activewear styles that our trade and encourage entrepre- include tanks, pullovers, wraps, By LISA LOCKWOOD Trina neurship in America.” fitted leg warmers and tights, Turk To kick off the initiative, and is offered in a palette that BENJAMIN MOORE, the paint, Benjamin Moore will honor Los includes orchid, steel gray, color and coatings brand, has Angeles-based fashion design- azure blue, white and black. teamed with the Council of Fashion er Trina Turk with its inaugu- The pieces are made to mix A look Designers of America to highlight ral CFDA Trailblazer Award at and match and are designed to from the influences of color, design and the HUE Awards in New York. create multiple combinations. Pure entrepreneurship in America. Benjamin Moore tapped Simon Among the pieces are the Barre.

“Benjamin Moore and the MITRA Doonan, the creative ambassador- Lynx Tank, which has a built- CFDA will work together to cel- at-large at Barneys New York to in bra and adjustable straps; Splits59, a Los Angeles-based

ebrate the aesthetic impact and ROBERT serve as master of ceremonies at the Hydra Pullover, which has activewear line, was launched in transformative power of color, the event Monday. Since 2008, the cross back straps for layering; 2008 by Jonathan Schwartz and one of the most important and es- HUE Awards have been Benjamin and the Gemini Tight, with an Keith Peterson. The line features sential tools of design,” said Carl PHOTO BY Moore’s signature event recogniz- adjustable waist so you can quick-dry sports performance Minchew, vice president at color innovation and ing exceptional use of color in architectural design. wear it three different ways. fabrics and layering pieces that design of Benjamin Moore. “There are many syn- During the year, Benjamin Moore and the The collection retails from $65 combine technically advanced ergies between our two worlds and with the help CFDA will organize various events, programs and to $100. Four collections will fabrics with sleek silhouettes. of the CFDA, we will bring together the architec- collaborations for CFDA members, as well as the be introduced a year. There are Splits59 has sold its apparel tural design and fashion communities to advance larger design community. no plans to make pieces avail- within Pure Barre salons. — L.L. WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 9 WWD.COM Italian Mills Count on Innovation

tor Michele Filipponi. Last year’s sales By EMILY BACKUS Alcantara fabrics presenting new were 110 million euros, or $129 million, a technology for fused stone-dust 20 percent increase over 2012, he added. MILAN — Italian high-end fabric manu- decoration and 3-D resin embossing. Filipponi said Alcantara beat tough facturers showing collections for fall market conditions in recent years by 2015 at the Milano Unica trade fair were repositioning in the luxury market. He optimistic and aggressive about making showed a capsule women’s collection the most of fresh economic gains in the designed by Yohji Yamamoto presented sector following two years of tough busi- in March at the Italian embassy in Tokyo ness conditions. with versatile applications from a rust- “In the 30 years I have worked in this colored knit dress to a dusty-pink floral sector, I have never seen a push as strong print jacket. A new technology allows as this toward innovation,” Silvio Albini, shimmering stone dust to be fused and president of Milano Unica and owner of attached to the material in rigid, custom the Albini Group company, told a shapes, like flat stones or beads. packed audience at the Sept. 9 inaugura- Technical innovations in superfine tion of the three-day show. merino fabrics for high-end men’s Italian textile production saw a 7.6 Weather-resistant fine wool garments were illustrated by Birgit percent increase for the first half of 2014 Chamonix fabrics from Vitale Gahlen, who heads product develop- compared to the same period in 2013, ac- Barberis Canonico with ment for The Woolmark Co., promoting cording to the Italian textile and fashion satin reverse for Australian merino wool on behalf of federation Sistema Moda Italia. Sales for unlined jackets or coats. farmers. Australia provides 90 percent Italian textiles gained 4.8 percent from of the world’s supply of merino wool, ac- January to June. Production growth for five consecu- tive quarters followed two straight years of contraction that prolonged the wallop of the global financial crisis that torpe- doed production by 30 percent in the first 7.6% quarter of 2009 year on year. “Now that we have favorable winds, INCREASE IN ITALIAN TEXTILE we need to exploit them,” urged SMI PRODUCTION FOR THE FIRST HALF. president Claudio Marenzi. He saw strong export growth with- in the European Union and contrac- cording to Woolmark’s chief marketing tion in non-European Union develop- officer Bob Langtry. ing markets, like China, as reason to Gahlen pointed to the “Traveler” trend push European integration and peace — the introduction of new elasticizing and in Ukraine, since Russia is a critical water-resistant finishes or bonded mem- European trade partner. branes that render traditional fabrics Pier Luigi , president of high performance and low maintenance. the Ideabiella luxury wool fabrics area Subtle color mixes and patterns, like small of the fair and deputy chairman of the checks, are pushing more casual, versatile LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton- applications for top-end men’s suits. owned cashmere and luxury wool giant “Men need multifunctional garments Loro Piana, agreed that peace in Ukraine The Woolmark Co. stand during that can go from the bicycle to the office could help Russian sales for Italian top- the Milano Unica trade fair. or meetings,” Gahlen said. end wool fabrics, potentially pushing Performance finishes and bond- growth in the sector over the 5 percent ing treatments featured across collec- currently expected for 2014. “The path is to not change paths,” Bonotto forecast, noting that clients in- tions of luxury wool makers, including “There would be room for more opti- he said. clude Tory Burch, Theory, Diane von , , Botto mism depending on what happens politi- Lorenzo Bonotto, commercial direc- Furstenberg and Alexander Wang. Giuseppe, and Marzotto. cally,” Loro Piana said. tor and member of the family that owns Bonotto said contrasting fibers, materi- This edition marked the first time Restoring the euro’s original exchange and runs creative textile specialist als and effects marked a major trend for Milano Unica allowed a select group of rate from its introduction 15 years ago, Bonotto SpA, said his company laid off the season and showed samples of black non-European exhibitors to show their however, remains the “most important” 25 percent of its workforce in 2010, but suede woven with shiny patent leather, wares. Kenji Tsuboi, manager of European battle horse for growth, in his opinion. has flourished since by repositioning cellophane with wool, bronzed foil with and America sales for wholesaler Takisada- The euro made its debut at $1.17 on Jan. 1, its mix of fabrics by raising its creative chenille and patterns alternating opacity Osaka, was one of 25 Japanese exhibitors 1999, and currently trades at $1.29. content. “We invest 8 percent of our turn- and transparency. Bonotto also features a selected for the Japan Observatory. Loro Piana said as part of LVMH, he over in research and development,” said line of artisanal fabrics made on old shut- “We have been working in Italy could not disclose financial figures, but Bonotto. “We change about 95 percent of tle looms from pre-World War II. for more than 15 years,” Tsuboi said. that he was “satisfied” with on-target our collection every season.” Alcantara, a specialist in a high-end “Normally we have an Italian agent trav- gains and a strategy that had not changed Company sales returned to their 2007 suedelike synthetic fabric, saw sales eling to see customers. Today more than since the French group bought out the peak in 2013, and will see a 20 percent grow 25 percent in the first eight months 50 customers have come to our stand, and house in July 2013 for 2 billion euros, or increase this year to 36 million euros, or of 2014 compared to the same period in not just Italians — from the U.S., the U.K. $2.58 billion at current exchange. $46.5 million at current exchange rates, 2013, according to fashion division direc- and Switzerland, too.”

doing in Paris, with what you’re demographic. Even if you don’t China’s New Consumer Classes doing online,” he said. want to leave New York, San The outdated idea of only Francisco or Oklahoma, you can being able to access Chinese still benefit.” America, and in much the same China] now and wondering: consumers within China is one An easy way for Western By CASEY HALL way American consumerism How do we really make this of the most common miscon- brands and retailers to tap into shaped the world in the sec- work? How do we expand in- ceptions coauthor Chan came this rapidly growing demograph- — The Chinese ond half of the 20th century, we telligently? How do we localize across. ic of Chinese global consumers, consumer has gone global, ac- think Chinese consumerism is intelligently? How do we plan More than 100 million according to Chan, is not to ex- cording to a new book charting going to shape the world in the for the future and absorb more Chinese will travel abroad this pect them to access information the ascendancy of the country’s first half of the 21st century,” local talent? How do we real- year, and that number is expect- the same way Western custom- spenders. Zakkour said. ly ‘Chinafy’ to a much deeper ed to double by 2020, according ers do. Even without a presence “China’s Super Consumers: The authors, whose book degree?” Zakkour continued, to independent brokerage and on the Mainland, consumer What 1 Billion Customers is touted as more than simply adding that a key message of investment group CSLA, whose information can be gathered Want and How to Sell It to a “China 101” guide to doing the book is the globalization research also points to a tripling in stores around the world and Them” is written by Tompkins business, are quick to stress of Chinese consumers and the in Chinese tourist spend over used to reach Chinese shoppers, International Consulting princi- the importance of an intimate need for brands and retailers the next six years. wherever they may be. pal Michael Zakkour and Savio understanding of culture, his- to treat them as a worldwide, “One of the biggest myths is “I am guiding a client now, a Chan, president and chief ex- tory, philosophy and mind-set, in rather than simply China- that people who are based in very high-end diamond retailer, ecutive officer of U.S. China order to grasp the nuances of the based, demographic. America don’t understand how and I keep telling them, ‘Do not Partners, a privately held busi- Middle Kingdom’s current pur- “If you’re a luxury brand, they can impact China. They let a Chinese customer out of ness-development firm. chasing power and the ways in fashion brand or big jewelry think, I’m not , Louis the store without scanning their “This is the largest, most which it is, and will be, yielded. and accessory brand, you need Vuitton or Ferragamo; to me, WeChat ID. Yo u need to use the world-changing, most impor- “What I’m seeing out there to integrate what you’re doing China doesn’t mean anything,” tools they use,’ ” Chan said. “We tant consumer class since with the dozens of companies in China with what you’re doing Chan said. “This is wrong. use Facebook and LinkedIn, but the postwar Baby Boomers in I work with is that they are [in in New York, with what you’re Chinese consumers are a global they don’t use them at all.” 10 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014

worked closely with the police, public light on the métiers d’art. We still WWD: Fashion professionals have been transportation organizations, museums, have a tradition of métiers d’art — asking for a change in legislation to hotels, etc. First-quarter figures have embroideries, feathers, etc. We need to let shops open on Sunday. What’s your Madame improved; the Chinese tourists are keep it, to make it more visible. stand on this? still coming en masse. Paris is a city Fashion Week will be flagged in shops A.H.: I am not for a generalization of that people want to visit. I am not one even if they have nothing to do with Sunday labor. I am for an extension of of those who do “Paris bashing.” I am fashion. It will have a positive impact on touristic areas [legislation allows shops proud of the city. the economy. It boils down to mobilizing in these areas to open on Sundays]. For Mayor the city around what makes it strong. The instance, I think it would be relevant WWD: What have you done for the fashion industry employs 60,000 in Paris. to change the perimeter of the Marais fashion industry so far? area, add some streets, and remove PARIS — Five months after taking office A.H.: Our contribution mainly consists WWD: Which cities are inspiring to you? others. I will take advice from a and becoming the first female mayor of of supporting entrepreneurs and A.H.: I am inspired by New York and the committee on these questions. Several Paris, Anne Hidalgo is getting ready for Paris designers, providing them with office importance the city accords to the fashion other such areas are being scrutinized, Fashion Week. “There are magnificent light spaces and studios at very low rates. The world. I am also inspired by the way such as the department stores area, Les variations here,” she said in an interview big challenge in Paris is the rent. We London nurtures young designers. There Halles, Beaugrenelle, Bercy Village. But in her large, bright office at city hall. have incubators dedicated to creation is also a crop of young talents in Paris. I again, I don’t want it to be generalized. Sporting a Georges Rech blazer, and innovation. We got I am for salary compensations for those jeans and a silk blouse — she is loyal to on the bandwagon for who work on Sundays. It’s a principle the contemporary French brand — the this season and will shed Anne of social justice and democracy. There 55-year-old left-leaning politician talked light on young designers eye Hidalgo are some people who will end up in very about Parisians’ unfriendliness, opening such as Léa Peckre. difficult personal and familial situations up City Hall to young designers and if they are obliged to work on Sundays. visiting the new Fondation Louis Vuitton. WWD: How are you I am also against superstores opening — LAURE GUILBAULT helping them? on Sundays. Because so far this has A.H.: One of our protected smaller convenience shops, WWD: What have been your priorities observations was that which makes the city vibrant. since you got into the office? large events such as Anne Hidalgo: Paris is betting on the digital Paris Fashion Week WWD: The Fondation Louis Vuitton is set economy, so our support has been going aren’t being backed to open in October. To what extent will it to start-ups, as well as to more traditional enough by the city and boost the city’s attractiveness? sectors such as tourism and fashion. Paris Parisians alike. I am A.H.: The Fondation Louis Vuitton is is one of the three most influential cities opening up City Hall a true gift for Parisians. It’s one of the in the world after London and New York. to young designers. We major works by Frank Gehry. I am thrilled The summer season went really well for are making City Hall’s that it will incredibly boost the city’s us. We’ve had events such as the Tour de salons available for free. attractiveness. If the Pinault Foundation France’s arrival, the Eiffel Tower fireworks We sent one invite to had chosen Paris instead of Boulogne, on Bastille Day, the commemoration of Parisians via Twitter. DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE I would have done anything to make it Paris’ Liberation that attracted tourists — There have been happen and not let it go to Venice, the

both French and foreigners. shows at City Hall in the PHOTO BY same way we did everything to make past, but it was mostly Fondation Louis Vuitton happen. It hasn’t WWD: And the challenges? rented to big fashion houses. I want to want to make it more visible. Paris has been easy because this project, which A.H.: There is one thing I am not happy open not only city hall, but other venues the historic fashion houses so it’s more is an architectural achievement, had about: Paris ranks among the unfriendliest such as Carreau du Temple, La Gaîté difficult to break in. However, since there opponents. With Bernard Arnault, we cities. Parisians may have strong Lyrique and the Centquatre. It is a way are all these houses and fashion schools, pushed it through, including when the personalities, but they aren’t unfriendly. to give momentum so that Parisians are it is a great city for aspiring designers. building permit was canceled while 400 By the end of my mandate, I want us to be proud of fashion week. were already working on it. There are among the friendliest. Parisians must be WWD: Copenhagen Fashion Week — also other projects such as Renzo Piano’s known for their smiles. We will work on it WWD: But isn’t fashion week an which specializes in sustainability — Jérôme Seydoux Foundation that we have by involving Parisians. We might consider, inconvenience for residents? organizes a Fashion Exchange on the just inaugurated, La Tour Triangle [a for example, a label rating the quality of the A.H.: I want Paris Fashion Week esplanade of City Hall, a swap on the skyscraper for offices and retail designed hospitality of places such as restaurants. to be a public event involving all last day of fashion week. by Herzog & de Meuron] and Jean Nouvel’s public places. We are working in A.H.: It is a very good idea. I’ll take it. Philharmonie de Paris. WWD: Beyond unfriendliness, Paris that direction with the Chambre des I am also strongly backing the [LVMH has made the headlines for street Métiers de Paris, which regroups WWD: Which shows do you plan on Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton] Samaritaine crime issues. Any concern that might artisan butchers, cheese-makers and attending this season? project. These are signals that the city is discourage tourism? bakers as well as métiers d’art. We A.H.: Lanvin, I want to see what Alber modern, our ability to combine our heritage A.H.: Things are getting better. We have are setting up an operation to shed Elbaz is doing. I wish I could go to more. with tomorrow’s architectural heritage.

Karolina Franca Kurkova Sozzani and FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Giorgio

Armani WWD.com/eye. MAESTRI ERNESTO RUSCIO/GETTY IMAGES; DAVIDE

Amanda Wellsh, BY Jeremy Scott and Cindy Bruna and

Binx Walton. Eva Herzigova OTHERS ALL PHOTO BY KURKOVA

usually give to the photography, [that] eye on the future.” collection of magazines Bella Figura photography has to be in a gallery. No, “It’s beautiful, was of Vogue,” she photography can be anywhere because it’s there’s a whole reminisced. VOGUE ITALIA’S historic headquarters part of our life,” Sozzani said. The archival inventory of many Laura Lusuardi, in Milan could barely accommodate the images have also been digitalized. of our models [on fashion director at the crowd of well-wishers that turned up to Asked about a documentary her the walls],” said Dean and group, was celebrate the magazine’s 50th anniversary son, photographer Francesco Carrozzini, is Stefania Valenti, chief Dan Caten also in the mood for on Sunday, at the tail end of the city’s developing with his mother as the main executive officer with Toni celebration, noting fashion week. Images from the magazine subject, Sozzani said, “We are still doing of Elite World Garrn. her own milestone — splashed on the walls prompted Giorgio it, because we have a lot of progress with and Pacific Global 50 years at the Italian to proclaim: “What a good job my the producer. Francesco still wants to Management, citing fashion house. colleagues have done [over the years].” do it and… I still want to do it.” She was the agency’s cover Guests included Wearing a brightly colored, striped quick to note, however, that quality was girls Cindy Crawford, Karl Lagerfeld, gown from Valentino’s next spring pre- more important than production speed. and Riccardo Tisci, Neil collection, the magazine’s editor in chief “I do it well, or I don’t do it,” she said. Naomi Campbell. Barrett, Roberto Cavalli, Franca Sozzani said she opted to blow up “Here is the history of Tod’s creative director Dean and Dan Caten, Kean archival magazine images across the — they should have school groups come Alessandra Facchinetti said Etro, Francisco Costa and walls, creating a kind of high-fashion through,” said Tod’s chief Diego Della Valle. she recognized the photos executives including Gildo wallpaper, so that the building would Antonio Marras said the exhibition was “like even though she was too , Michele Norsa and look “like an apartment, not like an a general brushing up on fashion in school. young to have actually Pietro Beccari. office and not like a gallery.” Yo u see photos that you remember and had seen some of them the — CYNTHIA MARTENS “I didn’t want to give the idea that you forgotten. It’s a dive in the past but with an first time around. “My first AND LUISA ZARGANI WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 11 WWD.COM

at select Anya Hindmarch stores and at Colette in Paris, priced at 4 euros, FASHION SCOOPS or $5.13. They will be sold at Waitrose stores in Britain at the beginning of November. The inspirations for Hindmarch’s fall show were nostalgic HEAR ME ROAR: Karl Lagerfeld’s e-tailer’s largest campaign yet — and supermarket products and childhood ridiculously pampered cat Choupette will see multiple deliveries over the delights, and the Tony the Tiger leather seems a docile and fluffy, if capricious next three months, with an additional bag has been an all-out bestseller, feline. She assumes a more fearsome, 10-piece holiday assortment rolling according to retailers. A company cartoon guise — Monster Choupette out in early November. Campaign spokeswoman said the brand “likes — in a new capsule collection of imagery featuring Roberts will playing with the high-low idea” and accessories under Lagerfeld’s support the line — as well as making the everyday “extraordinary.” signature label. Her angry likeness e-mail marketing outreach and a There are currently window appears on totes and small leather dedicated social media hashtag, installations in Colette — together with goods, shoes, scarves, a T-shirt, #AsToldByEmma. “I have a the runway bags — while the store’s sweatshirt and socks, slated for love-hate relationship restaurant, the Water Bar, will be fully November delivery. with social media, but branded with Tony the Tiger imagery — MILES SOCHA FOR MORE A Monster mostly love,” Roberts SCOOPS, SEE for the next month. Choupette said, adding that she — SAMANTHA CONTI EMMA’S NEW ROLE: tote. will help WWD.com. BaubleBar has promote GEORG JENSEN NAMES PRESIDENT: Georg tapped actress the new Jensen has appointed Meeling Wong Emma Roberts A behind-the-scenes as collection photo of Emma Roberts president of North America. Wong will its latest Guest via her Instagram shooting for BaubleBar. also serve in the newly created position Bartender, with account, where she of managing director of jewelry. a collaborative has more than two “In her new position, Meeling has 19-style collection million followers. an important role in leveraging and launching on According to Daniella FLAKING IT: Anya Hindmarch is poised to creating growth for our North American baublebar.com Yacobovsky, BaubleBar give Paris a sugar rush with the launch business, as well as in focusing on today that will cofounder, the this week positioning Georg Jensen as a true retail from $18 to company is on track of limited- global luxury brand,” said chief $150. The Guest to grow its top line by edition executive officer and chief creative Bartender as Told by three times over 2013. Kellogg’s officer David Chu of the appointment. Emma Roberts is the — RACHEL STRUGATZ Fashion Chu, along with Investcorp, acquired Flakes the brand in 2012. Meeling comes by Anya with experience in the fine jewelry stylist Jocelyn Goldstein reneged on an Hindmarch. market, having served as national sales MEMO PAD Instagram post. Goldstein borrowed 12 The Fashion manager at David Yurman, as well dresses from the designer, including Flakes, as president of John Hardy. In 2005, the white gown the Grammy winner which come Meeling created her own consulting PAULA STEPS IN: Ellen Tracy has a new wore to the “Coming to America”- in a Tony the firm, Meeling Wong Associates, which spokeswoman. The women’s wear themed birthday party she threw for her Tiger box and specializes in developing young fine brand, which is celebrating its 65th an- husband Swizz Beatz on Sept. 11. The way the quote: jewelry brands. She maintains an niversary this year, has tapped actress Margolin tells it, Goldstein agreed to “Fashion is advisory role in the company upon Paula Patton to be its new face and brand give Bouwer his due by crediting him as gr-r-reat!” are joining Georg Jensen. ambassador. Patton’s appearances for the designer in an Instagram post of her on sale now Anya Hindmarch’s — LAUREN MCCARTHY the label will begin in November and during the party. Fashion Flakes. will be part of a global initiative to com- Goldstein declined to comment. memorate the milestone. The campaign While Bouwer does not typically will extend through 2015. loan celebrities dresses for non-red- Patton follows Cindy Crawford, Stephanie carpet parties, Margolin said he made Seymour and , who were an exception since Keys has 2.7 million previously featured in the brand’s Instagram followers. When there was no campaigns. post during the party or the following “We believe that Paula represents day, Margolin inquired about the delay today’s dynamic and confident woman, with Goldstein via text and e-mail, some balancing work, life and motherhood,” of which he shared with WWD, including one where Goldstein asked if Keys could keep the dress when she posts. Paula Patton When it became clear there would not be an Instagram post citing Bouwer as the designer, Margolin suggested Keys pay $5,000 for the $10,000 dress, but to no avail. “This is a very reputable agency. It’s no joke,” he said, referring to Goldstein’s employer Margaret Maldonado Agency. The 11 other dresses were returned and Margolin was told the white gown would be returned Sept. 15 or 16, and then he claimed he was informed it needed to be dry-cleaned. At his request, Goldstein provided a copy of the Madame Paulette $539 dry- cleaning ticket, which reads, “Makeup

STEVE EICHNER on the front, badly soiled dirty hemline, REACH THE BY requires wet cleaning.” At one point, Margolin said he PHOTO received a call from an executive at FASHION INDUSTRY’S said Jameel Spencer, chief marketing MMA thanking him for the dress and officer of Sequential Brands Group, telling him how much it meant to Keys. which owns Ellen Tracy. “I said to him, ‘What is that going to TOP TALENT “As I continue to evolve in my life, do for me? Am I supposed to call my I like Ellen Tracy was a natural mother to tell her, ‘They called to say partnership,” said Patton. “The clothes thank you?’” are timeless, flattering and wearable The MMA representative then from morning to night. I am also very allegedly told him that he would have proud that as part of my work with needed a legal contract to have Keys Ellen Tracy, I will be able to highlight Instagram a photo since she has a and bring much deserved and necessary deal with Givenchy. Margolin said he attention to women of all backgrounds balked at that suggestion and insisted who shape the world every day.” Goldstein should have stood by her The Ellen Tracy label was founded word. “This is how it works. This is the in 1949 and is sold at department stores common code. This is universal for including Nordstrom and Lord & Taylor. stylists. As far as I’m concerned Jocelyn Sequential acquired the brand last year. is acting as an agent when she comes — JEAN E. PALMIERI in here for a dress. I feel whatever she says should stick. If you say in advance WWDCAREERS COM DRESS? WHAT DRESS?: In the ever- you’re going to do it, you need to do it. PRINT&ONLINEPACKAGESAVAILABLE blurring lines between social media It’s understood if you’re going to borrow and product placement, Marc Bouwer a dress, you’re going to get credit for it.” Contact Christen Cosmas, WWD Classifi ed/Careers president Paul Margolin claims Alicia Keys’ — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG at 212.630.3937 or [email protected] 12 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2014 WWD.COM

Roberto Cavalli GIANNONI GIOVANNI MAESTRI; ALL OTHERS BY DAVIDE

Bottega Emilio Marco de Etro Veneta Pucci Vincenzo Prada Easy, Feminine Looks a Hit in Milan DE VINCENZO PHOTO BY

{Continued from page one} Tiziana Cardini, fashion director at ger again,” echoed Sebla Devidas, wom- from Prada and Bottega Veneta, both Colleen Sherin, senior fashion direc- Italy’s La Rinascente, underscored the en’s buying director at Beymen in Turkey. of which are major highlights from the tor at Saks Fifth Avenue, said that, “with city’s creativity as well as its relevance as “There were no drastic changes in Milan spring season so far.” a focus on luxe materials, artisanal em- a business hub. “Milan has a solid stand- Fashion Week, however, it was promising “Through the elegantly embroidered bellishments and great pride in crafts- ing within the international fashion sys- to see a fresh air and unexpected nov- dresses at Bottega Veneta we saw denim manship, Milan did not disappoint. There tem,” said Cardini, lamenting how it has elties from some collections in terms of worked into the season’s purposefully un- was opulence, sex appeal and just a touch become too “easy to blame it on Milan. fabrics and shapes.” finished refinement. Designers are chang- of flash.” Favorite collections included Each fashion city has its own specifics Beymen is to keep budgets flat for ing the way we look at fabrics and mate- Prada, , Etro, Marco de Vincenzo, but Milan is creative, too.” Italian collections, reflecting “strong rials they might traditionally use through Giamba, Roberto Cavalli and Pucci. Cardini was impressed by the range business” with major brands, and few the use of raw and frayed edging, fringe “Fabric craftsmanship and innovation of skirts in different lengths and the additions this season, Devidas noted. Its and slashed cutouts. The unfinished de- continues to be of utmost importance “sportswear influence with more so- favorites were Pucci, followed by Bottega tailing, particularly at Prada, gives a re- in Milan. I loved the rich , jac- phisticated touches.” Favorite collec- Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana and Etro. “We freshed perspective on the beauty of the quards, lace and other decorative fabrics tions included Prada, Marni, Pucci, are also happy with the new start of Jil fabric and an appreciation of the crafts- that we’ve seen throughout the week,” Versace, Marco de Vincenzo, Angelos Sander. On the new front, Angelos Bratis, manship built into the garments. These added Sherin. “It was interesting to see Bratis, Arthur Arbesser and Rodolfo Stella Jean and MSGM,” said Devidas. details address a sophisticated ease the distressing of the brocades at Prada. Paglialunga’s debut at Jil Sander. MSGM was also a highlight for Elle which make the clothes less precious and Denim was used for a sportier look and Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion Strauss, fashion director at Shopbop. everyday-wearable,” said Ogura. in a democratic way to prevent the col- direction at Toronto-based Holt Renfrew, com. “It’s always such a refreshingly Fendi’s micro peekaboos, Gianvito lections from looking too precious.” was equally positive about Italian fash- creative show and this season didn’t dis- Rossi’s braided lace-up sandals, Brooke Jaffe, operating vice president ion. “We are celebrating an Italian im- appoint, with pretty bird prints and vi- Marni’s fringed hobos and ’s of fashion direction for women’s ready- mersion event in October and are con- brant colors,” said Strauss, also praising Onda wave clutch are must-have acces- to-wear at Bloomingdale’s, praised the tinuing to build strong relationships with Moschino’s Barbie-themed show. sories for the season. “many strong collections,” and said that our Italian partners in all categories as Andrea Panconesi, owner of Florence’s Justin O’Shea, buying director for “the celebration of artisan craft seen in the Italian luxury design houses remain Luisa Via Roma, was equally impressed by My Theresa, was also pleased with the exquisite embellishment, beadwork and the foundation to our successful growth Moschino — a great marketing operation, condensed schedule. Gucci, which “re- embroidery on both clothing and acces- and luxury positioning in Canada.” he said — and Antonio Marras, as well as ally found its identity this season,” Etro, sories was extraordinary.” She also high- She said that, in general, the store’s Dolce & Gabbana’s collection, which he Pucci, Bottega Veneta, Sergio Rossi, lighted the “diversification in hemlines “designer business is extremely strong described as “the most interesting and Dolce & Gabbana and Prada were among on dresses and skirts. Longer lengths and our budgets have been set to fuel impactful.” His plan for the season is “to his favorites. The latter, he said, “again and diaphanous silhouettes taking center this positive growth.” Top of her list is buy 15 percent more than last season.” proved its place at the top of the Italian stage in Milan felt fresh.” luxurious sportswear including knit- Panconesi said that women’s food chain. So perfectly cool.” Jaffe’s favorite collections includ- wear, tailored and sleeveless jackets, footwear is the category that is growing “We came, we saw, we will buy,” said ed Pucci, Gucci, Moschino, Dolce & tunics and dresses, and a “newness in the most at the store. Linda Fargo, senior vice president, Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and MSGM. skirts and pant silhouettes — especially Retailers were generally pleased with fashion office and store presentation Jennifer Cuvillier, style director at Le the new culottes.” the more-compact show schedule. at Bergdorf Goodman. “Pucci, Gucci Bon Marché in Paris, singled out Marco She also noted that “clogs, lower Leila Yavari, fashion director at and Etro exceeded themselves,” and de Vincenzo’s show. heels, sneakers and comfort sandals Stylebop.com, said she was “very happy she also liked Roberto Cavalli. “It’s sig- “It was a very special moment, infinitely would help fuel a strong leather-goods with the condensed schedule and would nificant to note that most collections creative with ultrafeminine silhouettes, business, along with cross-body bags, like to see the same in Paris.” Yavari here, in tandem with other cities, re- using new materials and special tech- clutches and constructed top-handle gave a thumbs-up to the designers’ inter- main grounded by the all important flat, niques to bring lightness and a uniqueness bags in exotic skins.” Favorite collec- pretation of the Seventies “for a modern whether sandals or athletic shoes. Top to his collection. Looks were sophisticated, tions include Prada, Brunello Cucinelli, consumer whose key interest is lifestyle of mind collections for us were Marco but with an easy attitude at the same time Marni, Fendi, Gucci, Stella Jean, Marco rather than consumption.” In addition de Vincenzo — most promising and ex- — we absolutely loved it,” she said. de Vincenzo, Fausto Puglisi — and new to Pucci, Etro and Roberto Cavalli, she traordinary, Bottega Veneta covered Cuvillier said Milan confirmed the discovery Callens. was impressed by Marco de Vincenzo. He a-day-in the-life dressing in a very spe- trend for blossom patterns seen in New Oates lauded the touch of humor in “has proven he’s the one to watch.” cial interpretation, Prada marches to York and London, with strong floral state- rtw and accessories collections — par- Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion direc- her own original and fascinating drum, ments from Marni and Fendi. Emerging ticularly at Moschino and Au Jour Le tor at Barneys New York, said the new Fendi didn’t disappoint and Missoni talents included Stella Jean. “She is so Jour, “which balances the seriousness of condensed schedule was appreciated hit a new high-knitwear development talented with fresh silhouettes and an many collections.” Galeries Lafayette fa- and that “it could be further condensed.” in Italy [that] remains unparalleled. incredible mix of colors and prints, a vorites also included Stella Jean, No. 21, Ogura said he had been “impressed by Marni’s anniversary treated us all to the strong DNA, which really brings newness Giamba, and Marco de Vincenzo. the strength of the offering and particu- best feel-good moment with its generous on the catwalk,” she said. “We believe that Milan will get stron- larly engaged by the beautiful shows flower shop pop-up.”