The Elegance of the Past
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Editor in chief Giuliano Deidda Issue #2 - Dicembre 2017 STYLE STYLE Q.&A. DIGITAL FASHION WHO READS You Love, It Lies GIULIANO GIOVANNI ITALIAN LINDA CALZA ALLEGRI THEY GO MESSERKLINGER Creative director of GCDS The debut of Major at Pitti The top influencers Fashion as expression of personality Page 14 Uomo Page 26 Page 62 Page 16 THE ELEGANCE OF THE PAST Total Look Prada An eclectic mix of cult pieces and contrasting prints and patterns. Page 44 TREND Ballet Rossorame Cloudlike dresses with showy tulles and crinolines Page 22 ACCESSORIES Luxury Athleisure Kate Winslet and Justin Timberlake in Wonder Wheel (Photo Courtesy of Lucky Red) Brimarts A selection of the most innovative sneakers, both for Woody Allen surprises us thought it would be a stimulating setting for a The same thing has been happening for years her and for him. once again. He uses the dramatic film.” It is no coincidence that most of in fashion, which continues season after season Page 52 Wpast to talk about contemporary neurosis and the films screened in the latter part of the year to bring past references up to date again. Thus, sets his latest film, Wonder Wheel, in Coney are set in the past. Nowadays, to turn to a past on the runway, the impeccable elegance of the Island in the fifties. “It always had a great effect which is more or less remote and more or less fifties meets the anti-fashion transgressions on me. There are a lot of colourful, quirky mythologized seeking that inspiration which our of the sixties and the excesses of the eighties people there and so much hustle and bustle digital reality is perhaps ever less able to give, is in a megamix which perfectly represents our that the atmosphere was particularly vibrant. I a firm part of current culture and aesthetics. confused modern life. ITALY ILLUSTRATED www.terrealte.net ITALY ILLUSTRATED www.terrealte.net ITALY ILLUSTRATED young people and fashion Editor’s letter DECEMBER 2017 5 young people and fashion o communicate fashion today is increasingly complex. No one seems to believe in institutional channels any longer, by this I mean print, no matter whether quality editorial products or not. Instagram seems to be the only vehicle that works, with its instant appeal Tand the possibility of audience interaction. It is the preferred vehicle for the young, the Millennials, but also for industry professionals. The problem with this is that the web and social media are types of media which must be used properly and only large groups are able to invest in effective digital campaigns giving tangible results. Young talents, no matter how creative or able to manage the web, just because of their age, cannot compete on this field with the big names. The names which do manage to emerge, have an understanding which is not limited to the web, they need to find ways to tell their story which go deeper, to tell their story in a less superficial way. It is no coincidence that whilst the big publishing houses are closing one magazine after another, small independent publishers are doing their best to produce quality publications, maybe niche, but able to recognize and laud creativity. This is happening on a global level because young people are taking an interest in fashion as never before. This is of one of the themes we talk about together with Giuliano Calza, creative director of GCDS, the new star of streetwear Made in Italy, often labelled as a product of social media but, as we discovered during the interview, much more lies behind the brand’s success. On the other hand, a name like Giovanni Allegri, heir to a prestigious family tradition in outerwear, tells us about a weighty digital strategy for the launch of the new brand Major. In both cases the obvious conclusion to be drawn is the need for synthesis between traditional strategies and new market demands. As always, we try to talk about all of these aspects, going as deep as possible within the pages of our magazine, without forgetting the aesthetic and almost dreamlike dimension which has always been a key characteristic of fashion. This project has been made possible thanks to the support of: ITALY ILLUSTRATED Contributors 6 DECEMBER 2017 Special Guest FASHION WHO READS LINDA MESSERKLINGER Page 10 Page 48 MAURIZIO SAPIA (STUDIO H2O) PHOTO BY DAVIDE BONAITI Born in Sanremo, after high school he moved to Milan to do a course in photography at the IED (European Institute of Design). After Linda Messerklinger, long dark hair his diploma he began his profession as a and huge blue eyes, was born in photographer first as an assistant and then Moncalieri, Turin, and has a dense working directly with several magazines TANIA VISHNYAKOVA curriculum comprising cinema, both in Italy and abroad. In collaboration A degree in business, a Master in Counseling, music, theatre and dance. She did with Studio H2O, of which he is one of the owner of the vintage store Vecchiamosca in classical studies at high school founding partners, he is currently producing Milan, blogger (amanteperfetta.com) and followed by Political Science at photographs and videos for numerous designer of furs and jewellery. Muscovite Università degli Studi di Roma Tre, brands and magazines, mainly but not by birth, she could have been an engineer whilst continuing to study acting exclusively linked to fashion. Parallel to this or an economist, she is a Parisian spirit which she began at the Teatro Regio commercial activity, over the years he has adopted by Milan. Her style doesn’t follow in Turin with the mime Marcel developed his own artistic research, which, the masses, she sees it as a fascinating Marceau. Thanks to her family, she supported by art galleries, has brought him game. Her favourite pastime is to seek out grew up surrounded by theatre to show his work in numerous group and grandmother’s headscarves and wear them and art, starting work very early personal exhibitions. with everything. She never leaves home as an actress, dancer and model. without lipstick, vintage glasses and at least The fault lies with Giuda by Davide one unusual accessory. Ferrario, Giallo by Dario Argento and I Demoni di San Pietroburgo Page by Giuliano Montaldo, these are 62 among the first films she appeared in. At the age of 20 she moved to NICOLA GOBBETTO Rome, because “the heart of cinema Born in 1980 in Milan, he gained his diploma is there”, appearing in various film from the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera. His and television productions and gallery of reference is Galleria Fonti di Napoli. studying with names who were In 2011 he won the Prada Manga Contest and in fundamental to her artistic training, 2012 made the animated short film “The Golden such as Elizabeth Kemp and Mary Fish” for Vogue.it. His research weaves around Setrakian. She was chosen for the fantastic narrative, myths and legends, magic and role of the mute girl who lives with esotericism. Metamorphosis and transformation her mother (Isa Barzizza) in a post- are the key words for his artistic production which atomic Italy in the film Mia by embraces divers experimental techniques. Fulvio Ottaviano and Stefano Soli. Fame arrived with the film, Faccia d’angelo by Andrea Porporati, where she played Morena, girlfriend of the Brenta criminal underworld boss, Felice Maniero (Elio Germano). This was a difficult and delicate role, due to the controversy generated by a bloodthirsty story. Just as complex were the events narrated in the television miniseries, Gli anni spezzati, directed by Graziano Diana, in which Linda interpreted Editorial Director Mara Cagol the founder, together MARCO POLI Publishing House with her husband Renato Curcio, of [email protected] MILANO FASHION LIBRARY the Brigate Rosse. In 2013, she settled Via Alessandria, 8 - 20144 Milano in Turin once again and worked on Editor in Chief Tel. +39 0258153208 the theatre performance Dostoevskij GIULIANO DEIDDA Forever, taken from the novel the [email protected] Chairman Idiot. In the following years, she DIEGO VALISI dedicated her time to the activities Art Director [email protected] of singer songwriter and performer: FABRIZIO MAJERNA and together with the musician [email protected] Assistant Publisher Gigi Giancursi (for many years a LISA RICCI member of the group Perturbazione) Editorial Staff [email protected] founded the duo Linda & The [email protected] Greenman, writing and producing Advertising the album Greensongs, their first Contributors Via Alessandria, 8 work. She also collaborated on the FRANCESCO BERTOLA, NICOLA GOBBETTO, 20144 Milano album Generated, by the artist, The FRANCESCA MANUZZI, FRANCESCA ORTU, Tel. +39 0258153208 Archetype. In 2016, she returned to STUDIO H2O, TANIA VISHNYAKOVA the film set with Marchio Bellocchio for the film, Fai bei sogni. The Editorial Office All rights reserved©/The material on this magazine may not be same year saw her acting alongside Corso Colombo 7 - 20144 Milano reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, Clive Owen in the noir written and Tel. +39 0287365694 except with the prior written permission of Fashion Illustrated. www.fashionillustrated.eu directed by Paolo Sorrentino, Killer in Red. Coming to cinemas in 2018, in the film written and directed by Tonino Zangardi, Quando corre Nuvolari, she plays Carolina Perina, the wife of the famous Mantuan pilot. ITALY ILLUSTRATED shop elenamiro.com Fashion Illustrated 268x365.indd 1 06/09/17 16:39 Contents 8 DECEMBER 2017 32 TREND MENSWEAR IN LINE 10 By Giuliano Deidda HIGHLIGHTS 1 The Prada Double Club Miami STYLE TIPS 34 By the editorial staff DIGITAL ITALIAN THEY GO 14 By the editorial staff Q.&A.