YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE 7 € In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. N. 6/2021 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via R. Gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. s.p.a. Italiane Poste R.O.C.: Tariffa - Milano 20146 - 28 Gessi R. Via - s.r.l. Edizioni mte - bimestrale - 6/2021 N. - Modena - DCB 1, comma 1, art. 46) n. 27/02/2004 L. in (conv. 353/2003 D.L. - Postale abbonamento in Spedizione INTERNET exportmagazine.net WORLDWIDE INDUSTRY THE BEAUTY THE INTERNET GUIDE TO [email protected] Discover the complete range on guudcure.com THE ITALIAN CLEAN BEAUTY SANITIZING LINE
CRUELTY FREE The line for moisturizing, sanitizing, and rebalancing the scalp, hair and skin. Inspired by scientific studies on the antibacterial efficacy of Italian honey, of balsamic essential
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CRUELTY SLES&SLS 100% LOCAL FRAGRANCE FREE FREE ITALIAN HONEY FREE
GUUDCURE is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A. // www.hsacosmetics.com // made in Italy
SLES&SLS 100% LOCAL FRAGRANCE FREE ITALIAN HONEY FREE
100% LOCAL FRAGRANCE ITALIAN HONEY FREE
FRAGRANCE FREE Discover the complete range on guudcure.com THE ITALIAN CLEAN BEAUTY SANITIZING LINE
CRUELTY FREE The line for moisturizing, sanitizing, and rebalancing the scalp, hair and skin. Inspired by scientific studies on the antibacterial efficacy of Italian honey, of balsamic essential
oils such as cinnamon, eucalyptus andCRUELTY tea tree, coupled SLES&SLS with FREE FREE the detoxifying power of charcoal, it amazes for its “black” textures, for its sensory pleasantness, and for its “clean” formulation approach. CRUELTY SLES&SLS 100% LOCAL FREE FREE ITALIAN HONEY
CRUELTY SLES&SLS 100% LOCAL FRAGRANCE FREE FREE ITALIAN HONEY FREE
GUUDCURE is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A. // www.hsacosmetics.com // made in Italy
SLES&SLS 100% LOCAL FRAGRANCE FREE ITALIAN HONEY FREE
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FRAGRANCE FREE XXXXXX
COMPANY 4 Nouba 6 Transvital 24 Grioni-MYC 40 SurgicTouch
EVENTS 20 We Cosmoprof 34-35 TFWA Cannes 47 BeautyIstanbul On the cover: Happy Me Mood Collection, signed by Nouba
FLASH/NEWS 18, 22 N. 6 ANNO XLI AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2021 2021 BIMONTHLY AGOSTO SETTEMBRE 2021 INTERVIEW DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE 14/17 Astra: S. Settimi GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano 28/30 Red of View: C. Bondioli, L. Pecis n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa LAUNCH Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena 8 Luciano Soprani 10 Lumson Printing: 12 Arômélia Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO)
Art Director Teresa Tibaldi REPORT
Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl 36/38 Farm to face – Valérie Kaminov 42/45 The Beauty of bacteria – Valérie Kaminov Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 Advertisers’ list E-mail: [email protected] 13 Arômélia Managing Editor 17-19-IV Astra Giuseppe Tirabasso 3 Baralan III BeautyIstanbul Editor-in-chief 26-27 Confalonieri Cosmetics Claudia Stagno 46 Cosmobeauté E-mail: [email protected] 21 Cosmoprof Bologna Worldwide 23 Grioni-MYC Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard II-1 HSA 31 Induplast Consultants 9 Luciano Soprani Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli - 11 Lumson Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov - 33 Mane Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo - Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn 39 Make-up in…Paris Cover Nouba P.R. Promotion 41 Packaging Première Italy: 7 Transvital M.T.E. Edizioni
2 DEA Airless Packaging in Glass
Marrying quality through functionality and sustainability, the new DEA series is the first airless system where the product is directly in contact with the glass.
www.baralan.com COMPANY
NOUBA VERSATILE MAKE-UP Not only color in the inspirational moodboard but also THAT BELIEVES chameleonic formulas created using exclusive Vegan Approved ingredients. The creamy textures caresse, care and color the skin in a true ritual of happiness: IN FREE EXPRESSION Nouba, who since its origins has supported and encouraged women to dare, once again breaks the stereotypes of boring makeup, giving any makeup Convinced that make-up is a way to give freedom lover the opportunity to express themselves and of expression to the personality, Nouba presents its bright! Happy Me mood collection 2021. This fresh summer We believe that the boundaries of beauty no longer palette celebrates the positivity and happiness of exist: color, performance and activity are essential natural colours. The colour range embraces a reversed characteristics for a tailor-made result. order with eye-catching chromatic harmonies, through The hot product in collection is PINKELISIR – lip tint, a mix and match of lines, shapes and colours. From a lip stain with an immediate colour release and an the warmest and imaginative, to the freshest and most ultra-comfortable naked-lip feel. Its tattoo-like matte delicate ones, no matter whether it’s circles, squares colour dries instantly and stays fresh and perfect for or abstract designs. The leitmotiv for this collection will eight hours of wear. The formula kissproof reboot the be “layer with care and feel positive. Wear happiness natural color of the lips. For eyes, the fluid eyeshadow every day and let color glow up your life”. Qui comes in a flaconette with a soft applicator to
4 COMPANY
Nouba is a young and dynamic Italian brand that creates versatile make-up ensure perfect blendability. It is a delicate eyeshadow Turn Me Red, a cream to powder blush that gives a cream with a luminous finish that can also be used natural and sheer tint on cheeks, eyes and lips. For as a base on the cheeks or the eyes. Once again the a sheer second skin effect, Noubamore is an ultra- versatile soul of Nouba finds expression in the multi- fluid foundation. Its oil-free formula reduces the shiny functionality of its products that can smartly adapt appearance of the T zone for a mesmerizing matte to multiple simultaneous uses: eyes, face, lips. For a look. It dries quickly, leaving a velvety and ultra-light natural flushing effect on the cheek Nouba launch finish on the skin with a no-transfer film.
In 2020 NOUBA celebrated the anniversary of its most iconic product, Millebaci liquid lipstick, with the launch of a “pocket mini-size” in a limited edition. Millebaci was designed for breathtaking kisses, as it was the first kissproof lipstick that left only emotions and no traces.
The FIVE KISSES EXPERIENCE pocket contains 5 mini The sumptuous formula is enriched with pure millebaci lipsticks for lips that are always perfect. pigments for a single shot colour release, leaving an Its saturated, trendy and vibrant colours are infused ultra-matte finish. Its texture is kissproof and does with Italian passion. not transfer.
5 COMPANY
TRANSVITAL round-the-clock hydration
Research activities at Transvital’s laboratories follow the latest and most important discoveries in dermatology, cosmetology, and plastic surgery. Here’s a real innovation: protecting and stimulating the skin’s metabolism, by activating its own vital substances.
Hydra All Around Treatments Formulas are based on Microspheres The Hydra All around Line is composed by cream, and Chronocosmetology serum, eye contour and mask to have a deep Microspheres enhance skin hydration, bioavailability, hydration, thanks to the exclusive, gradual-release stability and controlled occlusion. They are composed deep hydration program. of a very small sphere able to increase its own The technology is a latest-generation delivery system surface by absorbing the active ingredient. The active rich in stimulating, anti-oxidant active ingredients. ingredient is released over a long period of time.
6
LAUNCH LUCIANO
SOPRANITHE PURE ESSENCE OF A WOMAN
At the heart, an original blend of flowers and fruit, glorious femininity is expressed in noble Sambac jasmine, Florentine iris, plum and an explosion of floral notes, enriched by soft rose petals and sensuous impalpable peony.
Luciano Soprani Donna, the fragrance for the woman who makes her choice based on her instinct
The generous and opulent base notes of sandalwood, vanilla and a richer second skin of musks, are warm and captivating, leaving an unforgettable sillage. This exclusive fragrance has an exclusive bottle, crafted in linear shapes and softly luminous The Luciano Soprani woman moves delicately, volumes, the opulent base notes and lively character concealing strong character and a sophisticated of the fragrance harmonize perfectly with the simple image that reveals spontaneous elegance and but sophisticated personality that characterizes regal beauty, and she enchants and surprises with the Soprani world. The communication for this seductive and harmonious gestures. She is self- exceptional new fragrance features a woman who confident and trusting of her appeal, expressing her is the symbol of the unmistakeable Luciano Soprani personality in all her choices, from dress to fragrance, style, who pays the same attention to choose her with instinctive taste and spontaneity. fragrance as her clothes and whose personality is as Luciano Soprani Donna, the new fragrance for intense as her gaze. The atmosphere is refined and women, starts with fresh and luminous top notes of exquisite, created from intimate expectations and tangerine and bergamot, harmoniously enveloped details of good taste: the pure essence of the Luciano by peach and green cassis. Soprani world.
8
LAUNCH Lumson THE MOST-LOVED LIPSTICK? CREAMY AND LONG-LASTING
What’s a woman’s best The world of cosmetics packaging offers different friend? A long-lasting solutions, especially when it comes to stylos, but lipstick of course! A lipstick few are available in the 12.7mm diameter of classic that lasts but maintains lipsticks, and for a premium positioning A-TX2 can be its color throughout the metallized without losing its airtight qualities. day and is lightweight and smooth. And for a lipstick What are A-TX2’s advantages? like this, a cornerstone of Airtightness, technological all self-respecting makeup innovation, and versatility. lines, packaging is needed that is both worthy and able to enhance the formula. It’s not an easy task seeing as longwear lipsticks, the most requested on the market, are formulated with particular volatile raw materials which allow for longer-lasting color. Today, consumers demand products with lasting color that doesn’t transfer and that are also resistant to the constant rubbing action of face masks. Throughout this evolution, packaging plays an essential role because, besides being aesthetically pleasing to look at and practical to use, it has to live up to the important task of maintaining the integrity of characteristics of the product it contains. A task for cosmetic companies that becomes a true technological challenge of combining design, functionality, and safety.
LIPSTICK AIRTIGHT A-TX2 BY LUMSON: The characteristic of airtight packaging ensures SAFE, VERSATILE, LONG-LASTING that the product within doesn’t lose its qualities, Lumson, a pioneer in the development of packaging while technological innovation combined with in tune with new consumer habits and changing versatility make it a product in step with the marketing needs, backed by its expertise in the world times. Customization and aesthetic research are of lipsticks, has chosen to take on this challenge requirements in cosmetics packaging, especially if and to launch an airtight lipstick on the market: involving a product that is a master of seduction like A-TX2. A-TX2, destined to become a best-seller, was lipstick, and Lumson doesn’t disappoint, offering a developed to preserve formulas requiring packaging variety of customization possibilities to give each that is long-lasting. The A-TX2’s characteristics are product a little something «extra». that of a sophisticated, yet versatile lipstick: cap Thanks to its characteristics, A-TX 2 by Lumson is the and base in ABS, cup available in POM or PBT, with a ideal solution for those who desire a safe packaging standard diameter of 12.7mm. with immense appeal.
10
LAUNCH REJUV’OIL
byAN ARÔMÉLIA EXCEPTIONAL OIL FOR FACE AND BODY
An unsaponifiable concentrate from Maracuja Oil, a patented, eco-designed active ingredient obtained by a molecular distillation process, repairs skin tissue at three levels. This oil repairs, tightens and smooths weak and damaged skin, regenerating, restructuring and remodelling it.
Skincare with a maximum concentration of ingredients for three actions in one product
Tomato carotenoids allow improving the elasticity of the skin, improvement of the appearance of stretch marks and orange peel and improvement of inflammation. The combination of linen, borage, almond and olive oils give Rejuv’Oil antioxidant properties Christiane Benet has been fascinated by the power of essential to improve tissue elasticity and reshape areas of sagging skin. oils and natural plant extracts for numerous years now and Rejuv’Oil helps reduce recent stretch marks, and tones and is a pioneer in dry oils for the face and body. She has devoted firms at the same time. An extract of plankton detoxifies, helps the past two years, with her daughter Caroline, to the creation reshape contours of the silhouette by acceleraing the burning of a unique treatment for absolutely everyone: Rejuv’Oil. For of fat. The appearance and the texture of the skin are improved. the beautification of the face and body, Rejuv’Oil is exceptional The surface of the thighs, hips and abdomen is smoothed. Tests skincare with three main actions: it has anti-ageing benefits, have shown that after 34 days of treatment with two applications it reduces stretch marks and has a refining action, thanks to a daily, Rejuv’Oil had markedly reduced the redness of the stretch maximum concentration of ingredients from scientific research. marks, notably improving the condition of the skin affected by the It contains twenty-two powerful plant concentrates and energizing problem. The product can quickly improve the elasticity and the essential oils, delicately scented by its precious aroma. Formulated smoothness of the stretched skin and has an anti-inflammatory without preservatives, colour or fragrances, its innovative texture effect. Rejuv’Oil can be used by women and men on the face to gently infuses the heart of the skin, leaving it sublimed, toned and deal with ageing, dry skin and sensitive skin Thanks to its rapid plumped. For the anti-ageing action, an active blend of lemon, penetration, when used on the body it is possible to get dressed rosemary, sage, mint and thyme essential oils leaves the skin immediately afterwards. It can be used as a toning massage after bright and vitalized, boosted and energized by the plants’ actions. the shower, once or twice a day for a nourishing, firming, reshaping In addition, extracts of Lupin seeds stimulate the production of and refining action. To reduce stretch marks, the areas concerned collagen and elastin. The active molecules from the seeds improve should be lightly massaged with the oil morning and evening for skin suppleness and firmness and tighten areas of sagging skin. two months, but not if pregnant or breastfeeding.
12 presents its natural oil
Rejuv’OilANTI ÂGE GLOBAL Anti- VISAGEÂge GLOBAL ET CORPS Face & Body UN SOIN UNIQUE B E N E F I T S AUX TRIPLES APERFORMANCES N T I A G E
R E D U C E S ACTIONS T RANTI-ÂGE E T C H M A R K S CORRIGE LES VERGETURES R E F I N I N G ACTIONA CAFFINANTE T I O N
1 Treatment with 3 performances
21 Bd Haussmann 75009 Paris [email protected] +331.56.03.66.03ANTI ÂGE GLOBAL www.aromelia-paris.comVISAGE ET CORPS Lipid replenishing* Stretch marks The skin is toned** The skin is nourished** are less visible** UN SOIN UNIQUE +77,9% 65% 88% 94% AUX TRIPLES PERFORMANCESPAV.32 Stand C4 * Use test under dermatological control over 12 volunteers: Increase the skin lipid content 4 hours after the application of Rejuv’Oil ACTION ANTI-ÂGE **Self-assessment test performed on 17 subjects for 56 days CORRIGE LES VERGETURES ACTION AFFINANTE
ENRICHI EN LUPIN - PASSIFLORE & HUILES ESSENTIELLES 100% NATURELLES
ENRICHI EN LUPIN - PASSIFLORE & HUILES ESSENTIELLES 100% NATURELLES interview ASTRA MAKE UP INTERVIEW WITH SIMONE SETTIMI, GENERAL MANAGER
EM: This year, the leading theme is environment, also for cosmetics companies. What is the contribution of Astra Make-Up to this area? SS: Since 2018, after achieving the environmental certification ISO 14001, our company has started an honorable path integrating sustainability into its environmental strategy, putting into action the commitments related to the Corporate Social Responsibility. The commitment materializes through packing, packaging and the evolution of formulations, more and more driven towards a natural percentage of ingredients, as well as the short/medium term implementation of new significant initiatives.
EXPORT MAGAZINE: Astra Make-Up is a Made in Italy brand, created in 1988, whichtwo years ago began a notable rebranding process, going from the make-up segment to the launch of a new skincare line, last May. Can you tell us more about the strategies adopted to reach a larger number of consumers? SIMONE SETTIMI: The path undertaken in 2018 with Astra rebranding has confirmed the strength of our brand, which aims at becoming a global name in the cosmetics panorama, and a reference point for all consumers. Covid has changed all the rules of business and trade; however, the solidity of the company’s strategy has been confirmed. The strategies undertaken so far have empowered online platforms. ìOur social networks keep playing a key role in the achievement of a wider number of consumers, whereas the constant dialogue with our community helps us regularly adapt the product offer with amazing results.
14 interview
One of the latest examples is the eco-concept store, recently launched in our HQ in Todi, Umbria. This is a very unusual store, especially green, entirely made of ecological recycled materials,which was born from our desire to invest on sustainability, giving a second life to a container fallen into disuse and then turned into a modern store, where to find all the latest novelties from Astra.
SS: We’ve got a capillary distribution, as a tradition; the focus is on Perfumeries, mass market and retail, but our target is to reach as many customers as possible. We are taking into consideration the approach of new channels that will become the pillars of distribution for companies 4.0
EM: After the major entrance in the skin asset with the Astra Skinline, what will be the next step in Astra’s growth? SS: In line with our global strategy, the next step has been the development of the line “Pure Beauty”, following the great success after the launch of the first collection. Trends state that consumers are increasingly focused on the natural percentage of the ingredients in cosmetic products, and Astra wants to offer a comprehensive selection to create fresh and eco-friendly looks.
EM: What about your distribution in Italy, and do you plan to widen it?
15 interview
EM: Astra is synonym with inclusivity, breaking down all barriers in order to allow others to be themselves… Besides the projects that you have accomplished in the past two years, what other strategies are you going to adopt in order to advocate equal opportunities and a multicultural approach, going beyond any barrier? SS: People are and will always be the core of our company’s mission. All the projects followed during the past two years have invited our communities to reflect uponinclusivity and diversity, going beyond the conventional channels of the beauty world. Future initiatives alike will always be part of our great project #BEAUTYISDIVERSITY. Starting fromour social channels, which will always be our means to give voice to those who want to express their uniqueness, we will work with determination to the creation of cosmetics designed for everyone, despite age and gender. C.S.
EM: What about foreign markets, what countries are you present in? SS: Astra is present in 38 countries all over the world, from Europe to Middle East and South America. We are proud of our customer retention rate, and of theconsolidation of ourrelationship with old time customers establishedduring the past year, despite the difficulties; we expect a growth incountry numbersand in the percentage of the brand’s global turnover.
EM: As to last year e-commerce global development, what actions is Astra Make-Up pursuing? SS: We are focusing on the streng thening of our website, of customer care service and general growth strategies for the ultimate development of this distribution channel. We strongly believe that e-commerce will become a key asset in the global turnover of the company, becoming a showcase for retail development. One of our latest projects involves an important partnership with a renowned international marketplace.
16 ASTRA MAKE-UP CREATES ITS FIRST SKIN CARE LINE TO TRANSFORM THE SKIN CARE ROUTINE INTO A SENSORIAL AND PLEASANT PATHWAY: FROM GENTLE AND DEEP CLEANSING TO TONING AND MOISTURIZING TREATMENTS. A RELAXING AND PLEASANT PATH THAT LEADS TO THE SUMMIT OF BEAUTY: BEING YOURSELF IN THE BEST SUIT, YOUR OWN SKIN.
WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM
EXPORT MAGAZINE.indd 1 08/07/21 16:58 FLASH/NEWS
Cosmoprof AsiA Colour Journey: the colour- AnnounCes new filled adventure by Lumson show DAtes in 2022 What happens when the brightest, most vivid, and most intense colours meet Cosmoprof Asia, Asia’s leading beauty trade fair, which Lumson’s creativity and know-how? Something magical is the result: even was scheduled to be held on 17-19 November 2021 the simplest and most minimalistic packaging is transformed into something at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, unique. Unexpected combinations of colours and new effects take shape, announced today the 25th edition will move to 16 – 18 giving life to an emotion-filled adventure. November 2022. Considering the on-going uncertainty associated with the pandemic, and travel restrictions A JOURNEY WORTH TELLING still being in place, the Organisers, in consultation “Colour Journey is a trip through colour, in a moment in history where we all feel with customers and industry stakeholders, decided the need for more lightness and vitality”, explains Romualdo Priore, Marketing to host the show in 2022, when international trade Director for Lumson. “Through the shades of colour, we’ve given a concrete answer and business are expected to return and participants to this need for joy and energy while continually maintaining a connection with the can enjoy the high-quality event they have come to simplicity and elegance which define our designs. As was the case with TAG, one of expect. While waiting to meet each other face-to- our best-sellers, this packaging retains its original charm and sophistication but with face in November 2022, Cosmoprof Asia’s beauty added individuality and character. And it’s here where all of Lumson’s expertise, community will have the opportunity to participate technical know-how, and technology is revealed: in the ability to be able to transform in an international digital event to maintain business something so simple and basic into something unconventional”. Celebrated for its connections and commercial interactions. From 8 to trendsetting, minimalistic design concepts, Lumson, a leader in primary cosmetic 16 November 2021, Cosmoprof Asia Digital Week will packaging and dispensing systems, is setting its sights for cosmetic packaging return to offer a match-making platform for buyers on a new aesthetic and sensory experience. And thanks to its expertise in and sellers to interact with companies, view new decoration technology and to its research of new effects, the company is giving product launches, place orders, meet clients and life to unique products with a distinctive identity. Thanks to colour, decorations, potential customers, and stay up to date on beauty and features that enhance the sensory experience – a key element of cosmetic trends and technology in 2021/2022. “Such a tough products – the simple and clean lines are given new life through the way light decision to move the date of the in-person event aims plays off the packaging and other novel effects. Vivid colours, the answer to to guarantee safety and proper business conditions our need for energy, literally “bring to light” new emotions in us: blue evokes to our international exhibitors and operators,” said trust and calmness, purple stimulates creativity and imagination, green induces Antonio Bruzzone, General Manager of BolognaFiere balance and stability, and yellow reflects joy and optimism. Group and Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd. “For more than two decades, Cosmoprof Asia has gathered THANKS TO COLOUR, PACKAGING IS SEEN IN A under one roof companies, buyers, retailers, and WHOLE NEW LIGHT distributors from all over the world, who are interested Colour Journey is a fascinating quest for the discovery of the possibilities in new opportunities in the fastest-growing markets offered by visual effects and decorations. Thanks to these effects obtained of the APAC region. Our stakeholders deserve a highly by decorations and colour, packaging is seen in a whole new light. From performing exhibition during these tumultuous solid colours that slowly fade into a gradient effect, to pure high-intensity times.” “We believe this is the best decision for both and semi-transparent colours that enhance the beauty of glass packaging. exhibitors and visitors,” said David Bondi, Senior Vice On glass, a valuable and noble material, the delicate shades become inviting President – Asia of Informa Markets and Director sorbet-coloured tints, slowly fading out into tones that bring to mind the cool, of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd. “We are 100% committed to fresh feeling of an ice cube. Colour effects and transparency leave glimpses delivering a high-quality event that will offer true into the heart of the packaging while the shine/matte contrasts create three- value to all participants. We want all our attendees to dimensional effects. The jump from idea to product is a short one: “In Lumson, feel safe and comfortable when returning to the show the colour can be developed with the customer on the basis of request and necessity. in 2022.” Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Asia will be an In the Colour Laboratory, one of the feathers in our hat, the customer can select the ideal showcase for the entire cosmetics industry, from colour they prefer, work with a Pantone colour of their choice, or directly create it with finished products and brands to packaging suppliers us as a team, putting two heads together during the process. And the results are truly and manufacturers, joining in Hong Kong from across incredible”, concludes Priore. Colour Journey is, most of all, a journey towards the world. In 2019, Cosmoprof Asia hosted 2,955 the possibility that creativity can offer when technical expertise is combined exhibitors18 from 48 countries and regions and 40,046 with technological innovation. It’s a journey that outlines a new future for buyers from 129 countries and regions. cosmetic packaging. A future made of colour, technology, and creativity. NATURAL +90% ORIGIN INGREDIENTS
UNCONTAMINATED, CLEAR, AWARE: BEAUTY WITHOUT THE EXCESS AND REDISCOVERS ITS PUREST ESSENCE.
ASTRA CONTINUES ITS JOURNEY THROUGH ECO-FRIENDLY COSMETICS BY COMPLETING THE RANGE WITH ALL OF THE NECESSARY PRODUCTS TO CREATE A MAKE-UP LOOK WITH PRODUCTS THAT ARE FORMULATED WITH MORE THAN 90% OF INGREDIENTS OF NATURAL ORIGIN. VERY HIGH PERFORMANCE MEETS GREEN FORMULAS CREATED WITH ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OBTAINED FROM THE FRUITS OF NATURE, FOR A BOUQUET OF GENUINE AND VIBRANT SHADES. WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM
singola_astra.indd 1 07/07/21 18:47 EVENTS
VIRTUAL EVENT Wecosmoprof
WeCOSMOPROF International, the exciting new 52,200 requests for B2B online meetings. In addition, digital event organised by Cosmoprof Asia Ltd (joint over 5,000 operators attended WeCOsMOPROF venture between BolognaFiere and Informa Markets), International’s numerous talks and presentations tapped into the pent-up enthusiasm of beauty and dedicated to product insights, ensuring they remained cosmetic industry stakeholders from all four corners up-to-date with today’s cosmetic industry and caught of the world to generate an unprecedented number dynamic previews of future market trends and of business meeting requests, networking matches evolutions. “WeCOsMOPROF International proudly and online webinar attendees. represents the culmination of 50 years of Cosmoprof events,” said Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere. “this new platform has proved itself Exciting results with fully capable of adapting to all market and societal over 52,200 online transformations, while still providing the industry’s most innovative meeting and matching tools and meetings requested implementing successful commercial opportunities all around the world. WeCOsMOPROF International SPECTACULAR STATISTICS was made possible thanks to the collaboration the 10-day online event featured 698 companies with Informa Markets and the combined efforts of from 40 different countries and regions and more partners Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, Cosmoprof than 20,000 international stakeholders from Asia, Asia, Cosmoprof north America, Cosmoprof India europe, Americas, Australasia, Middle east, Africa and Cosmoprof CBe Asean.” and Oceania. thanks to the cutting-edge digital services and implementation offered by Cosmoprof DYNAMIC EVENTS AND DEMOS My Match, companies, operators, distributors, WeCOsMOPROF International offered attendees retailers and buyers seamlessly promoted their a rich calendar of concurrent events with 15 webi- businesses through the interactive and multilingual nars covering topics such as Asian trends, Beauty platform. Highly customisable and high-performing, Rebound, Data Intelligence, sustainability, Inclusivity it generated an outstanding count of more than and Digital Beauty.
NATIONAL EXCELLENCE through our international events and our close relationship The global event featured a deep dive into the excellence of with the most important players in the American, eMeA and all things Italian with over 230 Italian companies taking part Asia-Pacific markets, WeCOsMOPROF International offered in Made in Italy, thanks to support from the Italian Ministry a remarkable support to our beauty community around the of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, ItA – Italian world”, highlighted David Bondi, senior vice President – Asia trade Agency, and Cosmetica Italia. In addition, special mention of Informa Markets and Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd. “In goes to the 13 national organizations of Brazil, China, France, times of social distancing, we provided the cosmetic industry Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Korea, Lithuania, Poland, with a platform that was suitable for all, with innovative virtual spain, switzerland and UK. Korea, in particular, presented support, cutting-edge digital tools, and seamless networking, 102 businesses with the support of KOtRA – Korea trade- especially putting the world directly in touch with the Chinese Investment Promotion Agency and, while spain supported 45 market. WeCOsMOPROF International is today’s highest exhibitors in collaboration with the spanish union brought performing business tool for restoring interaction between by ICeX (Invest in spain). “thanks to the experience gained industry supply and demand.”
For more information: www.cosmoprof.com
FLASH/NEWS
MONACO LUXE PACK 2021 The premier tradeshow for creative packaging will gather once again premium packaging manufacturers from all over the world under one roof in Monaco “Finally, the trade show after 18 months will be back again on 27, 28, and 29 September 2021 at the Grimaldi Forum, and it will be a key event supporting the recovery” explained Fabienne GERMOND, Director of the LUXE PACK Monaco trade show. Last November the My LUXE PACK digital platform freed us from time and geographic limits bringing together supply and demand. The platform will be available all year round allowing those who cannot travel to stay in touch with GUERLAIN the current highlight and contact suppliers at any time. Although APPOINTS VIOLETTE digital technology was really helpful during the lockdown, it cannot AS ITS NEW CREATIVE replace the pleasure of seeing products in real life, of touching new DIRECTOR OF MAKE-UP materials, of feeling new formulae. In addition, professionals need Violette is a young Frenchwoman whose to meet to share, build, make contacts, and implement projects career already includes prestigious meeting the requirements of the Luxury market. So far over 450 names in the make-up world (Makeup exhibitors including 69 new exhibitors with various profiles from Designer for Dior, Global beauty Director luxury packaging leaders to small businesses mastering very specific of Estée Lauder) and whose work is expertise will present their most creative innovations. followed massively on social media (with 400k followers on Instagram). She This Year’s Highlights has recently been appointed Creative This year the show will feature a packed program with marketing Director of Makeup for Guerlain, a house topics around the notion of luxury as well as conferences synonymous with French beauty and and technical workshops. Three major business issues facing constant innovation, still emphasizing brands will be highlighted at LPMC 2021: Green: For twelve modernity despite being over 190 years years LUXE PACK in Green has become the benchmark event old. Ever since she was fascinated as a little showcasing the best eco responsible solutions and initiatives girl by Guerlain’s Météorites with the little of exhibitors. Every day, dedicated conferences will be hosted pastel-coloured pearls for the complexion, by committed international stakeholders, such as BSR, BAIN & Violette could not wait to become a woman COMPANY, POSITIVE LUXURY, MOET HENNESSY, and CHANEL. and indulge her femininity. China: In 2025, 50% of luxury purchases worldwide will be made With this appointment, Violette is delighted by Chinese consumers: a market as essential as it is atypical for to work with an iconic house that has such international brands. LUXE PACK Monaco will offer a sensory a rich heritage and where she can pass and personalised experience that will give the keys to China by on Guerlain’s values in makeup to a new providing free individual consulting, expert round tables, and generation and “share it with those who, exhibition of specific products, in partnership with the brand no matter their gender, celebrate beauty intelligence agency CentDegres. New Materials: Brand demand today and will celebrate it tomorrow.” for eco-designed materials is accelerating. Visitors are looking for Although she moved to the USA in 2015, solutions that go beyond the basic recycled version of conventional Violette continues to have Parisian chic, materials. Visitors will discover innovative materials resulting from combined with creativity, daring, an eye French public research serving Packaging and Luxury, through the for high standards and a genuine sense of CARATS network (CARnot Technical and Scientific Support). commitment. The Guerlain-Violette duo are perfect to write the next chapter in the history of beauty.
22 The traditional lip balm stick is now available with a sustainable touch: a mono-material design in 100% PP optimized for recycling. The airtight closure keeps the product perfectly moist. With a straight and slanted mechanism, it is the perfect solution for tinted lip balm and sun protection.
Company
A GLOBAL PACKAGING MYC INNOVATOR Export Magazine met the CEO and Co-founders of MYC, Wilson Chen and Andrea Perego, as well as Sonia Cerato, Global Marketing Director, Andrea Venturelli, MYC Europe Technical Manager and Pierpaolo Beretta, MYC Industrial Designer to discuss the company and its recent acquisition of Grioni
Wilson Chen Andrea Perego Sonia Cerato Andrea Venturelli Pierpaolo Beretta
EXPORT MAGAZINE: MYC is made up of a team of experts sustainability. In order to meet these changing needs, I think innovation with many years of experience in plastic and aluminum is the only answer. At MYC, we are always trying to think differently and manufacturing. When did this ‘adventure’ begin and who were improve what exists already, so we never stop testing new materials the founders? and technologies. Innovation is really part of our DNA: our products WILSON CHEN: MYC Packaging Innovation was founded at the end are conceived, designed and patented in our creative hub in Italy and of 2012 with the ambition of producing beautiful, innovative, and then they are made into industrial reality in our production units in functional makeup packaging. Andrea Perego joined the company China. In our new plant in Italy, we would like to sponsor zero mile a few months later: Andrea and I had worked together for so many innovation, using local raw materials whenever possible and benefiting years, we shared the same values and the same dream, it was easy from our strategic location in the Italian cosmetic valley. for us to join forces and bring our project to life. Now, almost 10 years later, we are really proud of our achievements and excited EM: Specifically, what are the services offered through the about the future. Italian site to fulfil and, even better, to anticipate the clientele’s requirements? EM: How important is it to be a packaging innovator and how can AP: Agility is the key word! From our Italy-based plant, we want to your strengths be summarized, in both operating units, in Italy offer high flexibility in terms of order quantities and services, different and in China? personalization options thanks to our in-house decoration lines and ANDREA PEREGO: Nowadays brands and consumers are increasingly what we call hybrid solutions, combining components made in China informed and demanding when it comes to quality, performance and with components made in Italy.
24 company
EM: Does this new route mean expanding your portfolio? SONIA CERATO: Grioni’s products perfectly complement MYC’s portfolio. Lip primary packaging has always been MYC’s workhorse, now we can boast of an enlarged collection comprising new sustainable materials and more skincare-oriented solutions. Lip balm, in the first place, but also versatile sticks in different formats with airtight closures suitable for multiple applications, from colour to treatment and sun protection.
EM: Many manufacturers are developing and making new types of packaging with materials and concepts of sustainability. Is this your case as well? Does this mean reviewing in part your industrial EM: Tell us a bit more about your creative hub in Italy, what processes, while keeping the highest standards of excellence? services do you offer from there? ANDREA VENTURELLI: We recently launched our sustainability Pierpaolo Beretta: our mission is to transform ideas into real programme called LIF which stands for Low Impact Future. MYC is products. We support our customers with graphic concepts, 3D committed to LOWering its IMPACT on the environment to build a rendering and prototyping, we help them visualize their product positive FUTURE for the generations to come. It means redesigning before developing it. We also like challenges and always try to manufacturing processes to reduce emissions, waste generation push beyond the boundaries when creating a new design. It’s a and energy consumption and implement circularity, applying combination of art and engineering, with a clear focus on final eco-design principles and offering safe and reliable eco-materials consumer. without compromising on luxury and quality. Our METALLICA LINE is the perfect example: unique mono-material solutions made from EM: In recent years the market has undergone a great 100% aluminum, a precious circular material that can be recycled acceleration. How do you succeed in being ‘speed to market’? forever without losing its properties (see picture). C.S. WC: The synergies between Italy and China are the key to our success. They have always been our distinctive feature and now that we have a production site in Italy, they will be even stronger. MYC AND GRIONI: TOGETHER TO DEVELOP NEW Time-to-market for us not only means optimizing INNOVATIVE PROJECTS FOR THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY processes to increase productivity and reduce lead- As the saying goes, “two heads are better than one” and in this case we time, it’s also about working closely with customers are talking about two leading companies in cosmetics packaging joining from the very beginning of a project, it’s about forces, following MYC’s acquisition of Grioni, to become even stronger, more sharing, trying to anticipate challenges, and thinking innovative and more flexible. MYC, founded by Wilson Chen and Andrea about the full picture. We don’t only focus on Perego is a packaging innovator that designs, develops and manufactures packaging manufacturing itself; we create solutions cosmetic packaging solutions. The Italian company Grioni has been active in having in mind compatibility with the formula, the moulding plastics since 1963 and now specializes in moulding and decoration, filling process and the consumer’s experience. selling lipbalms, and more complex lipsticks, stylos or pencils. Grioni brings to MYC its more than 60 years of experience in plastic manufacturing and its Italy- EM: You recently acquired Grioni on the Italian based production facilities join the Chinese company’s manufacturing sites. market, another production company in the The Italian firm’s expertise also comprises in-house decoration (silk-screen packaging sector. Can we interpret this as printing, hot stamping, 5-colour offset and spray coating) and moulding. a desire to add new services for customers, Thanks to this agreement, MYC will be able to penetrate a more skincare- including the production in Italy of some types oriented market and extend its product portfolio, with new sustainable of packaging? solutions and materials. The key advantages for Grioni from this acquisition AP: Absolutely. With production sites located in both include brand restyling, global expansion, a global sales force, penetration China and Europe we can be extremely versatile in make-up and higher mass market (for example thanks to the aluminium and offer different solutions according to the target components of MYC), competitive mould-making in China and production in market and product positioning. Hybrid solutions or Italy and hybrid solutions, with more technical components made in China and mould making in China and production in Italy, these more “commodity” components made in Italy. The resulting advantages for the are just some of the examples of our new services. MYC Group are increased manufacturing capability, a greater global presence, a stronger technical team, even stronger synergies between Italy (creativity, design and innovation) and China (competitive manufacturing), more patented25 innovation and increased flexibility for customers. COMPANY Confalonieri Matite home to innovation for over 50 years
Being able to read changes, if possible even The Research & Development division of anticipating them, is something of a habit for CONFALONIERI MATITE works constantly on new CONFALONIERI MATITE, this has simply been its way products to propose, successfully interpreting the of being and doing business for over 50 years. trends of the national and intenational make-up This is one of the distinctive features of the markets. CONFALONIERI - faithful to its founding commercial policy of the company based in Gordona, values – keeps one move ahead, succeeding in in the picturesque setting of Valchiavenna, a small creating its intuitions, making pencils with a soul that paradise where being green is completely natural. is increasingly Green.
26 COMPANY Confalonieri Matite
After THINK GREENER it is the turn of COLIBRÌ. The COLIBRI’ pencils - eye contour and eye shadow, lip contour and lipstick, blush and highlighter and for brows - can also be certified COSMOS ORGANIC (NATURE, CCPB and VEGAN FORMULAS). The ingredients are the perfect synthesis of the almost maniacal attention that CONFALONIERI has always had for our skin. Jojoba Oil, wax from Colza oil, Jojoba wax, high- melting waxes and Gamma Oryzanol give this line incredible properties. The COLIBRI’ pencils are very creamy with a strong emollient and moisturizing action, they are not greasy and have antioxidant properties to protect skin from stress and photo-ageing. The texture is creamy with a high percentage of pigment, the smoothness of application is excellent as is its staying power, even at high temperatures. COLIBRI’ (which means hummingbird) is not a name by chance… its appearance conveys the brio, elegance, originality, lightness and at the same time the tenacity of a tiny bird – the smallest in the world – on which depends the fate of many species.
Since 1969, CONFALONIERI MATITE has confirmed its passion Today, CONFALONIERI MATITE has a new image and taking for things done well. The continuous thread that runs from inspiration from playful elements and situations, at times past to present, that of quality, has never been broken and irreverent, brings back to the fire the only star of its history: remains constant, as always encouraged by Elis-abetta the pencil. Gallese, founder of CONFALONIERI MATITE and mother of the current chairman, Luca Confalonieri. It was Elisabetta Gallese NOT A PENCIL, THE PENCIL. Real pencils are made from wood. herself who had the ingenious intuition of devel-oping what until then had been the family business, a company specialized The new identity promotes and develops even more, if in producing graphite pencils and coloured crayons for possible, what for CONFALONIERI has become over the years schools and drawing, as well as a series of other products, not only a professional challenge but an opportunity to again for art, for the tailoring sector and also for Giardinette promote products, exclusively wooden pencils – 100% Made della Innocenti, an Italian car manufacturer, in line with the in Italy – that are increasingly sustainable and respectful of demands of the national and international market. the environ-ment.
CONFALONIERI MATITE Srl Via Al Piano - Zona Industriale - 23020 Gordona - Italy confaloniericosmetica.com confalonieri-cosmetics confaloniericosmetics INTERVIEW
REDPRESENTS ITS OF “SKIN CARE VIEW PROJECT” THE NATURAL EVOLUTION OF ITS ATTITUDE TO BEAUTY AND CARE
INTERVIEW WITH CATERINA BONDIOLI, CEO RED OF VIEW, AND LAURA PECIS
EXPORT MAGAZINE: Is there an evolution in the coming into being therefore have solid foundations based journey of Red of View? on competence, not only from the formula point of view CATERINA BONDIOLI: On our daily journey we are always but also from the type of offer that will arise depending on looking for stimuli, just as we are always ready to receive the needs of the various skin types. stimuli to evolve. This year, RED OF VIEW has concretized its “SKIN CARE PROJECT”, which has been in the company EM: When will the official announcement be made? since it was founded in 2006. So, in terms of evolution, this CB: This interview is the first communication of the year: project is a “natural evolution” of our activity: our expertise the “SKIN CARE PROJECT” will have its official presentation in the world of emulsions (but not only) finds in skincare at the next Cosmoprof/Cosmopack in 2022. products the chance to express high profile technology giving us the opportunity to offer our clients a new segment EM: What characterizes the Skin Care Project? of quality products. The “SKIN CARE PROJECT” thus comes CB: Thanks to the team dedicated to skincare, made up into being from the concretization of a series of situations of some young female researchers who are particularly and conditions which have been built up over time and attentive to the new age-groups of consumers, as well as which have culminated in collaboration with Laura Pecis, of Laura and myself, we will be able to offer innovative a professional we have known forever and with whom products which take into account the most topical we have worked for many years on several “challenging” demands of the market, including in particular respect and successful projects. Our long journey together finds for the environment and for the planet, to guarantee a us engaged in a professional interaction based on mutual better future for the future generations. We will benefit esteem and trust. Laura has worked in the past with the from the experience and the dynamics matured to most highly esteemed Italian dermatologists and in her date in the world of advanced contracting, so that our formulas she has always taken into account the individual proposals are valid from every point of view, from the problems linked to the various types of skin, the physiology, sensory nature to effectiveness, for every age and type the metabolism and the genetic make-up of people, their of skin. These proposals have in themselves a value, are age and the climate they live in. The products that are “rational”, to quote an expression dear to Laura.
28 INTERVIEW
EM: What does your attitude to beauty and care EM: For some time now there has been talk of consist of? ‘curative make-up’. Do you offer this to your clients? CB: In studying the formulas for the “SKIN CARE PROJECT”, CB: We have had the opportunity to experiment very we have kept the same awareness and attention that we many products of this type in the history of our company. devote to make-up: the skin is a delicate organ, to be At the moment these products defined ‘hybrid’ represent preserved with care through the attentive development a real exploit on the market. A facial product which is of products for daily use. The result of the synergic presented as a cream, which moisturizes, can be anti- action of skin care products and make-up produced ageing, a very rich make-up which is also Skin Care, is at with the aim of the well-being of the skin guarantees the the moment particularly appreciated by consumers. The best satisfaction for the consumer. client who has looked after her skin, adding a touch of colour feels fully satisfied. EM: What target do you intend addressing? CB: Our target is a demanding customer, competent and EM: Is the advent of social media positive for the informed, who addresses attentive and aware consumers. cosmetics industry, in particular make-up? The focus that RED OF VIEW, its clients and their consumers CB: The spread of information certainly helps the market have in common is the quality that first of all comes from and us, as manufacturers. Young people are increasingly sharing knowledge, experience and know-how. Quality comes competent in using products, also thanks to the tutorials from truth and transparency in every phase of the product. on the web: each proposal has a style, strength and personality of its own. Alongside the competence of the EM: What will happen at the organizational and make-up artists and the users of make-up, there is also industrial level? the expertise of the manufacturer, that produces and CB: What usually happens in these cases: it is work in makes commercial the countless types of inspiration. progress where we will be engaged in separating the production area of make-up from that of Skin Care, EM: Are brands increasingly addressing the targets buying new ad hoc machinery, so that we have the of the Millennials and GenZ? most highly advanced instruments to be performing, CB: It depends on the brands, even though I consider that competitive and fast on the market. The real challenge the majority are moving towards GenZ. Recently there has will be to guarantee quality in rapidity. We have also been talk of the Gen Alpha, born from 2010 onwards, however already taken the first step for the creation the representatives of some characteristics that will be of a Skin Care division: visually identifying the start of increasingly present in the years to come: technology, the project through the creation of an ad hoc graphic sustainability and inclusivity. Manufacturers have always design. The red of our logo, which immediately refers made diversified proposals for the various generations, to the make-up product par excellence – lipstick – gives however, today, as never before, GenZ represents a new way to a Pantone shade especially developed to convey entity, a strong voice, a keystone which comes from the the principles underlying the “Skin Care Project.” Internet which cannot be ignored.
29 INTERVIEW
EM: Can we say that today there is more freedom to talent of each person, giving each one the space of action express oneself, on the subject of make-up? necessary to express themselves. Having an attentive CB: I like the term freedom, because it is a value which is eye and an ear every day is our constant work, it is the valid in every field, at social level. What I find particularly continuous search for a single objective: that the people interesting is that today freedom is used to express one’s who work for RED OF VIEW ‘make up’ RED OF VIEW. own individuality, beyond any belonging to a particular group. EM: It would seem that at RED OF VIEW you are never content, with expressing yourself to the EM: Every company has a mantra of its own, what best, to growing… is yours? CB: Beyond the entrepreneurial objective typical of all CB: People First is the intention of RED OF VIEW, it is the industrial companies of any size, for us growing means idea that we want to make true every day, in the conviction the ability to evolve. As well as the “SKIN CARE PROJECT”, that success comes from the contribution of each person. we are working on other ideas which we hope to propose It is a concept that is valid in nature, in life and also in as soon as possible. When so many talents unite their a company. People First means finding and exalting the potential, they can only grow together. Claudia Stagno
Interview with Laura Pecis skin care project consultant
towards new and interesting horizons. Another important aspect is to identify the target to address; the proposal will vary according to the consumer, whether it is a child, a teenager or an adult.
EM: Do you think that every cosmetologist expresses themselves with a language of their own? LP: Definitely. Each of us has our own way of expressing ourselves and operating: mine is based on simplicity, I always aim to obtain simple formulas, without frills and this, believe me, is not at all easy. Behind a formula which I define “rational”, there is a great deal of EXPORT MAGAZINE: Laura, you can boast of more than thirty study, research on using only the essential raw materials, perhaps years of experience in the world of cosmetics, you have only one that is present in a whole cosmetics line. formulated lines of cosmetics for some of the most important brands on the market. What took you to RED OF VIEW? EM: Is it important to follow the trends of the moment? LAURA PECIS: I have known RED OF VIEW ever since its foundation; a LP: They certainly have to be taken into account; today our clients, relationship has been built up and consolidated on mutual trust esteem, the brands, thanks to the impulse given by the new generations, are as Caterina said. In view of the proposal of collaboration I received from asking for products that are green, eco-sustainable, that are ‘good’ Caterina, once I had left my position managing R & D, the reason that for the consumers and for the environment. On our side, the search persuaded me to accept was the perception and the ideal image that I for raw materials that meet the current demands is increasing; it will have of how a company that works in contracting has to be. In RED OF then be up to us to formulate cosmetics that bring innovation and VIEW and in Caterina I identified the competence, the professionality value, with an excellent price/quality ratio. and seriousness that normally a brand asks of a supplier. EM: So this is what will happen at RED OF VIEW? EM: Do you think that as well as counting on a solid scientific basis, LP: I am excited about the new “SKIN CARE PROJECT” of RED OF the formulator also has to have a certain marketing approach? VIEW. We have already laid the main foundations of our journey, LP: Absolutely, in my past experience, whenever it was possible to work we will start off with a portfolio of formulas on hydration which we hand in hand with the marketing department, the results were beyond can adapt according to the customer’s needs. We are creating an all expectations. At times the best ideas come precisely from R & D; exhaustive library, that we can access at any time. for example the study on certain raw materials can direct marketing Tailor-made will be the leitmotif of our modus operandi. C.S. 30 SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING SOLUTIONS MONO-MATERIAL PACKAGING, POST-CONSUMER RECYCLED PLASTIC AND GREEN PE BIO-PLASTIC
www.induplastgroup.com stock.induplastgroup.com EVENTS
ARTISTICPITTI PERFUMERY FRAGRANZE RETURNS TO FLORENCE
Pitti Fragranze returns to a physical format Pitti Fragranze goes digital as well, on Pitti Connect Pitti Fragranze, from 17 to 19 September 2021 at the Stazione The physical dimension will be supported and integrated by the Leopolda in Florence, will be the first event in the sector to return digital one thanks to the Pitti Connect platform, which will go to being held in person after the long forced break. We are working online from 7 September (until 22 November) and accompany to offer you a physical edition in total safety, as has already been visitors on a journey of discovery through the Fragranze brands, the case with the other Pitti fairs that have just ended in Florence. integrating the opportunities to network, generate contacts Industry professionals will return to Florence to live - finally, together with exhibitors, and discover more editorial content. New at this - a unique experience and learn more about the most established edition: the possibility to book appointments during the fair in Maisons and the most innovative brands, immersed in an elegant advance, online. Do not miss this service! and refined atmosphere. The most respected perfumers will present their creations alongside exciting young talents, beauty lines and the most innovative products related to well-being and self-care—a the world of international 360-degree view of an ever-expanding market segment. artistic perfumery presents
Events, projects, and special participations: the latest news and save the date! trends of the future Pitti Fragranze returns to present artistic perfumery, market of olfactory culture trends, and the more contemporary olfactory culture, also thanks to a series of events and special projects featuring key industry players: a new edition of RAW, the format on the world 10 X 10. THE MATHEMATICS OF PITTI FRAGRANZE of raw materials that has become an unmissable event; the Fragranze also pays tribute to Pitti Uomo 100 with a special retrospective focus on the great masters of artistic perfumery, installation on the Ground Floor of the central Hall, curated by curated by Chandler Burr, leading expert in the sector and artistic Chandler Burr, perfume critic and artistic director of the show. director of the fair, who will also present his very popular talks Ten fragrances created by ten exceptional noses take centre- on the hot topics of the moment; the events of the Fragranze stage, to answer the question: do male fragrances really exist? It brands, special participations, the most popular international is a multisensory experience marked by the freedom to choose experts. A calendar of special events to be unveiled soon! the fragrances that are best loved.
32 PASSION, CREATIVITY, INNOVATION, SUSTAINABILITY: 2021, A NEW YEAR WITH MANE SUCCESSES
MANE perfumers illuminate 2021 with brilliant scents which combine MANE’s purest natural ingredients and innovative captives with a conscious green approach.
Ethics and aesthetic by MANE and Trussardi. A perfume about women’s empowerment, solidarity, green conscience, and inclusiveness. Trussardi is the first perfume of the Maison dedicated to women determined to always be in charge of their destiny. A fragrance full of harmonized contrasts created by the inspiring duo of Violaine Collas and Julie Massé. An olfactory score evoking Italy’s vibrancy and excellence with a surprising Italian accord on top, a hypnotizing duo of white Dalia and Jasmine Absolute in the heart, enriched with an exclusive MANE interpretation of a timeless ingredient: Lavender Jungle Essence™. The drydown reveals a velvety touch, where refined Suede notes capture brave Patchouli and sensual Violet nuances, leaving an unforgettable sillage. A composition for today’s women that revolves around the cardinal points of an Italian spirit and feminine boldness.
The first Eco-Designed certified fragrance launched by Mavive. This certification was made possible thanks to GREEN MOTION™, an exclusive eco-conscious tool created by MANE, that rates the environmental impact of the perfume’s ingredients according to the Twelve Principles of Green Chemistry. Veronique Nyberg signs the new fragrance Police To Be Green, a young and fresh unisex creation interpreting a renewed consciousness of oneself and the world. With its authentic character and harmony, it embodies the universal spirit in an open dialogue with boys and girls who celebrate the freedom to express themselves. A sparkling fragrance that opens with fresh and Spicy notes of Bergamot and Cardamom Essential Oil, enriched by juicy touches of Mandarin. The heart, an elegant Floral bouquet, is sensual with nuances of Jasmine made precious by aquatic tonalities of Peony. A Woody drydown, with enveloping Sandalwood and touches of Vanilla Pure Jungle Essence™, closes the composition by offering a deep immersion in the nature.
Emanuel Ungaro has introduced the new signature scent Intense for Her, conceived for a cosmopolite, metropolitan young woman who feels the perfume she wears as an empowering means and an authentic form of freedom and self-expression. Blended by perfumer Julie Massé, Intense for Her is a pink-colored oriental blend that evokes the emotion of transparent flowers and the joyful, vital and protective power of nature. Top notes of Litchee, Apple and Blackcurrant come together to diffuse crispy sensations of instinctive sweetness. A unique combination of Mugane™, Freesia and Jasmine pervades the heart of the jus envisioning modern femininity as an explosion of floral vitality. Touches of Lorenox™ add an Ambery and Leathery twist to the scent, while Sandalwood and Vanilla bring the lasting promise of a warm and sensual cuddle.
A new MANE fine fragrance success blooms at Dolce&Gabbana: Dolce Rose created by perfumer Violaine Collas, is an addictive fruity floral combining delicate Rose Absolute and crisp Rose Centifolia Superessence with soft Musks and tangy Redcurrants. Dolce Rose celebrates the most iconic of flowers – a symbol of love, beauty and femininity that is one of Dolce&Gabbana’s iconic patterns. Rose Centifolia Superessence reveals the crisp and fresh facets of the flower, while Rose Absolute brings a more sensual and powdery quality – the iconic rose note. EVENTS
TFWAEXHIBITION IS BACK!
The last year and a half have not been easy for After a long wait, anyone with the need to adapt to a world that has Cannes is once again changed and is continuing to change. Flexibility is something that everyone has had to get the venue for travel used to and the TFWA Exhibition is no exception. retail’s most important
New dates and opening hours international appointment The changes to the TFWA show can be seen from 24 to 28 October immediately by looking at the calendar and the times: the dates are from Sunday evening 24 October to Thursday afternoon, 28 October, giving extended, with opening hours now from 8.30 a.m. exhibitors more time to prepare for the show after to 6.30 p.m. (except for the last day, when the doors the summer break. Four days of show instead of five will close at 5.00 p.m.) so that delegates can achieve make it more compact, but the working day has been more by starting earlier and finishing later.
34 EVENTS
The digital side TFWA i.lab goes 100% digital this year on the TFWA 365 platform, a year-round resources built on the three pillars of Discovery, learning and Networking, where the TFWA World Conference will be livestreamed, and where follow-up ONE2ONE meetings can be arranged up to 15 days after the event closes.
A safe show With the ease of restrictions imposed by the Covid 19 pandemic and growing confidence, TFWA World Exhibition is confident, as TFWA President Jaya Singh says, “that the return of this event is what the duty free and travel retail industry needs to help it back on its feet.” Every precaution is being taken to ensure a safe and successful show, as the President’s words confirm: “We’re working hard to make sure we intention to attend the event, and more than 10,000 deliver a safe, business-focused and impactful event square metres of Exhibition floorspace secured in that sows the seeds of future business success for the Palais des Festivals. The presence of big brand delegates.” The city of Cannes is also working hard names like Chanel, L’Oréal, Lacoste and Ermenegildo to provide a safe, business-ready environment Zegna is confirmed as well as the participation of with strict hygiene measures in hotels, restaurants major travel retailers such as DFS Group, Dufry, and transport links. The Palais des Festivals, venue Lagardère Travel Retail, Gebr. Heinemann, Dubai of the show, offers a 24-hour medical concierge Duty Free and Qatar Duty Free. service including online consultation with general or specialist doctors, leaving delegates free to focus on getting the most from their time in Cannes. Support from the industry for this year’s show continues to increase, with more than 200 brands and many major buying companies confirming their
There will be the usual opportunities to mix with colleagues and make new contacts, capitalizing on the great networking benefits the event is famous for. It’s back to business at TFWA Cannes 2021 with a format focused on the essentials and ambition of being more productive than ever this year for delegates.
35 REPORT FARM TO FACE with Regenerative agriculture is the latest sustainable beauty
VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Rethinking Your Sustainability Strategy Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director Excess packaging, an excessive carbon footprint and intensive farming practices of the highly successful International Luxury Brand have put the beauty industry in the running to be environmental enemy number Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at one and in a bid not to fall victim to cancel culture brands and corporations have the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and rushed to tick as many ‘sustainable’ boxes as possible. However, adding a range has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With of biodegradable face wipes into an existing line merely adds to the problem and her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and consumers are getting wise to the blatant greenwashing spreading through the practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has industry. When it comes to sustainability, green claims are no longer enough and become one of the most sought after management consumers are holding brands accountable at every level of the supply chain. and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business The newly released Mintel Sustainability Barometer revealed that globally consumers sectors and extensive distribution channels it works believe that corporations are to blame for the majority of sustainability issues (48% with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans believe that corporations are responsible for increasing the amount of packaging that is both well-established names and newly-emerging recycled) but more than half (54%) believe that all is not lost and that there is still time brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, to save the planet if consumer and company behaviours change. For brands to truly devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies prove that they are committed to the green recovery transparency is key, and while and business development is combined with an it’s not feasible to become 100% sustainable overnight brands should “take consumers inspirational and forward-thinking approach. on a journey as you navigate your sustainability goals” says WGSN’s Annie Johnston. Through her exceptional insight and understanding This means implementing clear consumer-facing goals that you can be held accountable of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify for, owning up to your mistakes and demonstrating the progress that you are making their market reach, elevate their brand presence, towards achieving your goals, because in an oversaturated market “the importance improve their business performance and of transparency and honesty to gain consumer trust is a major focus” notes Johnston. achieve commercial success globally. Consumers understand that it’s not viable to roll out a sustainable strategy for every A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand area of a business all at once; instead brands should prioritise areas which are most evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly relevant to them and seek to truly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations make long term demonstrable and financial investors. This capability in combination improvements here. One area with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in which is gaining momentum corporate governance have made her a much-desired as an enduring environmental Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director. solution is regenerative farming, From her CEW mentoring, organisation a slow, simple method of of the International Manufacturers & Distributors provenance that if executed Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, correctly and achieved via Valérie is a passionate and dynamic tangible stepping stones is an advocate of the global beauty industry. Valérie splits her time between her London HQ exciting strategy to begin to and her central Paris office as well as managing implement to become a real, a satellite network in Russia & China. hone part of the green recovery. REPORT
The Slow Beauty Movement: Regenerative Farming The beauty industry is intrinsically linked to consumerism and specifically a more is more attitude but as looking after the planet becomes a given for brands, and buyers, a less is more approach is beginning to emerge for both parties. Signalling a departure from the furiously fast paced retail- driven product cycles a new crop of brands are leaving the beauty rat race and instead working with nature, not against it, to deliver offerings which according to WGSN “disrupt the beauty industry without disrupting nature by championing the land around them”.
Beauty trends have a habit of filtering down from the food industry and recently we have seen a shift in consumer interest towards buying organic, indeed the Soil Association’s “We are in an age in our global history when soil erosion latest Organic Beauty and Wellbeing report revealed that is becoming a reality as the result of years of industrial over half of consumers are more likely to buy organic post- farming; use of heavy chemicals, pesticides and herbicides pandemic. In response to the demand for products that don’t and artificial fertilisers, that continues to destroy the soils’ damage the environment a slew of brands are emerging that biodiversity and health” says John Murray, Co-founder and Director of Sustainability and Philanthropic Projects at skincare brand Modern Botany. Healthy soil is at the heart of successful regenerative agriculture which in short is a farming methodology that aims to regenerate the soil, but why should consumers be interested in the soil that the ingredients they put on their face are grown in? Well, as Murray puts it “regenerative agriculture methods and practice provides a means to restore and conserve the soil to not only mean healthy and fertile soil but also proving that the food and plants produced in its growing are nutrient-dense and of a higher quality”. Put simply, healthy soil equals better ingredients and what consumer doesn’t want the highest quality ingredients out there? Cultiv îs another brand committed to creating a sustainable life cycle from soil to skin. By working with local French farmers who use only regenerative farming methods vegetable based skincare brand Cultiv not only create work within the local community but they also ensure that all the ingredients used are sustainably grown and harvested, have minimal environmental impact and reduced carbon footprint whilst still continuing to deliver innovative formulations.
Farming Process for Slow Beauty Movement
have returned to less intensive farming methods in a bid to reconnect with nature and put back what they take out. Regenerative agriculture is a method by which brands are able to have total control over the provenance of their ingredients and can confidently assure consumers that the ingredients they are buying have been farmed in a truly sustainable way. This school of thought is known colloquially as the ‘do no harm’ school and has been embraced by beauty brands including Modern Botany, Haeckels and Davines.
Regenerative Agriculture Method REPORT 2021 October 20|21
In terms of a sustainability strategy though, using farming The Regenerative Organic Certification is a new offering setting methods which promote healthy soil is one of the most industry standards around regenerative farming to stamp out effective for actually making a tangible difference to the greenwashing; the certification body has recently finished climate crisis. “Soil is a major carbon sink and natural climate- pilot schemes with Dr Bronner and Guayaki where it focused change solution, meaning it can safely store and reuse carbon on meeting specific soil health, fair labour and animal welfare which it draws down from the atmosphere via the process of standards. As well as certification, bringing consumers on your photosynthesis as plants grow” notes Murray whose natural sustainability journey is key for building long term relationships brand Modern Botany uses low-tech farming methods (for with eco-conscious customers. Modern Botany for example limited top soil disturbance) to grow and harvest 20% of its have committed to growing 50% of their ingredients by 2025 ingredients in West Cork, Ireland. Murray is passionate about and ensure that the ingredients they don’t grow themselves using regenerative agriculture not only to create beautiful, are sourced from reputable suppliers who use regenerative natural skincare but also as a way to contribute to climate and ethical means of farming. change; “we know that carbon can be stored for more than PARIS a century and therefore it is the most natural and effective Accountability is key when it comes to implementing self- means of creating climate change. In order to hold the carbon imposed targets and consumers now expect brands to be able the soil needs to be healthy and free from all chemical amends to prove their progress and governments across the globe are Carrousel that negatively affect soil microbiome and carbon reduction. discussing the possibility of financial implications for brands So its all a cycle really, but in essence healthy soil means that don’t fulfil their promises. As part of their sustainability healthy ecosystems, better quality food output and cleaner initiative Ulta Beauty has formed the Conscious Beauty du atmosphere. A Win Win!”. Advisory Council., a collection of industry experts including the COO of Credo Beauty and the CEO of Loop who are responsible Aside from proving a commitment to climate change there are for holding Ulta accountable to its goals as well as working several other major advantages to supporting smaller scale collectively to solve industry-wide issues. Louvre sourcing methods. Firstly, applying for certification is much easier since you have full traceability, and amidst a growing Of course, it is far easier for smaller, niche brands to adopt lack of confidence in brands’ sustainability claims, reputable sustainable practices than it is for mass market brands delivering certification is a must if you want to win a consumers trust. product on a major scale. Traditional farming methods are costly The key players that consumers should look out for include and labour intensive meaner smaller batches and longer lead COSMOS Natural stamp, Ecocert, 1% for the Planet or Bcorp times, it only takes one poor harvest for the production line to be certification but companies are also releasing their own significantly delayed. However, Murray believes that it’s possible certification guidelines against which they will hold themselves for even the larger brands to switch to more sustainable farming MakeUp in Paris is the exclusive BtoB event accountable. US giant Ulta has launched its Conscious Beauty methods. He recommends “starting by examining your supply initiative. chain and having a relationship with each of your suppliers and for brands with global skincare asking the question, does your supplier use regenerative or The retailer wants to provide biodynamic methods in farming? It may be that over time you and make-up offers from ingredients, formulation, customers with greater swap out suppliers with those that are more conscious of how clean product choices and they grow their ingredients. It may be that that question could be design, packaging, accessories to full transparency, and will certify the spark that affects change in getting that farmer/supplier to brands under five key pillars: change over to a more ethical and sustainable way of farming.”. service suppliers. clean ingredients, cruelty-free, The clue is in the name when it comes to slow beauty movement, vegan, sustainable packaging it’s a space that is currently dominated by small almost bespoke and positive impact. However, brands making a limited number of products. However, the it’s important to note that that benefit of returning to traditional farming methods in terms there is a lack of consumer of climate change cannot be denied and if brands truly want trust in self-certified schemes to make an impact in the sustainable space and be trailblazers Get your free invitation here : www.makeup-in-paris.com and therefore obtaining third- not tokenists then investigating the possibility of regenerative party certification is still a farming, even for just one ingredient within their portfolio, is a @MakeUpinWorld @MakeUpinWorld @makeupin_world @MakeUp in necessity. pretty solid place to start. in
For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on [email protected] or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk The Glo.Cal BtoB event boosting Beauty Innovation PARIS2021 October 20|21 Carrousel du Louvre
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Founded by Dr Nicola Pittoni, a dermatologist and aesthetic surgeon, who wanted scientifically proven products to offer his patients to complete his medical and aesthetic procedures, and Elena Nassimbeni, General Manager and the business heart of the line, SurgicTouch is a unique, effective and transparent cosmeceutical line. The line has been developed with selected, scientifically proven ingredients, production methods and techniques inspired by medicine, guaranteeing effective and real results. The products contain skin-friendly actives, ingredients and effective preservatives. They are free from substances deemed dangerous for the skin by dermatology. They have also been conceived to satisfy today’s women who want safe and clean products able to deliver real results and effectiveness, making SurgicTouch the Total Remover removes make-up and cleanses skin, perfect partner in a new and aware approach to skin respecting the physiological skin conditions and care. SurgicTouch offers the correct beauty routine having an effective action for the removal of all traces to prevent and slow down ageing mechanisms, from of impurities and dead cells. The formula has been cleansing to application of powerful actives, with developed for naturally hypersensitive skins or skins a home use beauty programme to keep visible the that have become hypersensitive due to impure results obtained during professional treatments or or allergenic cosmetics. Pure Jal is a serum of pure aesthetic medicine and surgery procedures. hyaluronic acid with a peptide. Top quality hyaluronic acid in terms of purity, concentration and molecule size, is combined with arginine/lysine polypeptide which has The company founded by dermatologist a botox-like tensor effect and a powerful antioxidant and aesthetic surgeon Dr Nicola Pittoni action. Sustenium Age Treatment Cream has an has developed a cosmeceutical intensive action thanks to innovative active ingredients, developed in collaboration with the University of range of products based on Arkansas. SurgicTouch is also a Professional line for research, innovation and quality specific treatments and include AHAs cleansing, face resurfacing and exfoliation, antioxidant treatments, moisturizing, lifting peptide masks and firming, anti- water retention and cellulite treatments.
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REPORT beauty bacteria Is the microbiome the next frontier in beauty?
VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Fermentation, yeast and bacteria, the beauty industry loves a buzzword. While Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at these are among the least sexy going it’s the promise they hold of promoting good the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and bacteria and increasing the diversity of our microbiome that is getting scientists hot has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With under the collar. Once the preserve of good-for-your-gut food stuffs, probiotics and her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and pre-biotics are now cropping up in every corner of our beauty cupboards thanks to practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has their ability to stimulate a strong and healthy skin barrier (the bit our microbiome become one of the most sought after management is responsible for), and consumers are taking note. In the past year Google Trend and distribution agencies specialising in global searches for ‘microbiome skincare’ have grown by over 5,000% worldwide and beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business the increasing awareness of the importance of a balanced microbiome for healthy sectors and extensive distribution channels it works skin and hair indicates that beauty products that balance, support and strengthen with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans our microflora with prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic ingredients is an area of the both well-established names and newly-emerging beauty industry that is set to boom. Research into the microbiome arena is still only brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, in its infant stages but the potential possibilities for discovery are endless and signal devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies the start of a shake up for how we look after ourselves both inside and out. The and business development is combined with an brands that can innovate in this space to develop hyper- functional formulas that are inspirational and forward-thinking approach. backed by science to promote healthy skin and hair will come out on top. The time is Through her exceptional insight and understanding now to back bacteria. of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally. A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director. From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry. Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing Image: Unsplash a satellite network in Russia & China. REPORT
THE MICROBIOME TODAY The beauty industry has a habit of tapping into trends emerging within the nutritional space. Recently we’ve seen an explosion of plant-based skincare and adaptogenic fuelled products amongst others, so it’s no surprise that we’re now seeing a shift in focus from the gut microbiome to the skin microbiome says Sarah Nsiri, biotech skincare brand Orveda’s International Sales Director. The link between gut health and overall health - that a healthy gut equals a healthy mind and body - have long been touted by scientists, and more recently understood by consumers, and now a similar body of thought is being applied to the various microbiome’s found across our body, our face and even our hair and mouth. Just like “the gut where there is good and bad bacteria, the skin also has good and bad bacteria that needs looking after”, notes Nsiri. While the gut and the skin have very different microbiome there is evidence that ingredients which make your gut microflora happy could also benefit the skin. One of the key actives at Orveda is black tea kombucha, a well know gut health booster, but at Orveda the fermented drink Image: Be + Radiance Probiotic+Omega-3 multi purpose facial oil to be used as makeup primer or makeup remover is used because the bacteria activates the rosy tones in your skin stimulating that coveted healthy glow. It’s still too early for multiple solid claims around the gut-skin axis but research notes Abigail Williams, Caudalie National Training Manager. is pointing towards the fact that the two are more synergistic However, when this balance is disturbed, which can happen due than previously believed. to anything from hormones and the way we wash our face to Post-pandemic, consumers are taking better care of their pollution or the weather, “the barrier function can be damaged health and wellbeing in a more holistic manner so beauty and the skin’s immune system weakened” Williams adds, and products that can work like this are top of the agenda. this is when troublesome conditions such as acne, psoriasis Indeed, Gallinee’s best selling product in France is a supplement or eczema can occur and our skin health, and appearance is using the gut-skin axis by supporting the gut bacteria which compromised. Everyone’s microbiome is unique and while there has the additional benefit of soothing inflammation of the skin. are still few definitive answers when it comes to the microbiome The microbiome is composed of millions of beneficial and not so some things we do now know to be true says Aimara Coupet, beneficial bacteria and “when the microbiome is in balance, the founder of probiotic makeup brand Be Radiance. For example, barrier function is efficient, skin is healthy and well protected” “c-acnes bacteria is a bacteria that we all have on our skin and when the level of c-acnes bacteria increases you get pimples but if your c-acnes bacteria is balanced you don’t have pimples” explains Coupet. And it doesn’t just stop at pimples, there is a new hypothesis that some researches are looking into that suggest that carefully balanced bacteria levels can affect our overall skin health too, “a good level of c-acnes bacteria can help you age better, if your c acne is lower it’s likely you’ll have more wrinkles” warns Coupet. For consumers a healthy microbiome is not only a way of overcoming long term problems but also provides a base to begin to address other potential irks. Ulrich Katusevanako, Head of New Product Development at Orveda, notes that “the skin’s overall appearance is a direct result of your skin barrier, so the stronger it is the healthier it will be and the more likely you will be able to target things like fine lines and other things you would like to treat”. Indeed, it is this idea that by balancing the microbiome we can then start to effectively tackle other areas of our health and wellbeing that is most exciting for the beauty industry, and the consumer. Image: Orveda Skincare, Award Winning pro bacteria skincare 43 REPORT
PRE, PRO AND POST-BIOTICS For a healthy microbiome diversity is key and this is where harnessing the power of good bacteria through the use of pre, pro and post-biotic’s comes in. Coupet offers a useful analysis for understanding why and how we should look after the microbiome, “your gut is like a tropical forest in a closed space so it’s very humid and very dense, there’s a lot of different things happening, whereas the skin is like an open forest where we cut Probiotics, living microorganisms or live bacteria that are key trees and they have to regrow all the time”, the aggressors that to keeping your body healthy, are the most widely known of interrupt our microbiome are the saws cutting the trees and we the biotic family. This is largely due to the fact that they are need to nurture the remaining bacteria (or tree roots) to ensure found in things like yogurt and kimchi and therefore are a more future protection from these disruptors. A good example of this familiar and tangible term. Whereas “pre- biotics are like food is Be Radiance’s Multipurpose oil, good bacteria activates on for probiotics, they help nourish the good bacteria on your skin” contact with the water to colonise the microbiome, or help the explains Nicolas Travis Allies of Skin founder and “postbiotics ‘trees’ grow and regrow in the most beneficial way. are produced during the fermentation process of probiotics. Examples are enzymes, peptides, and acids like Lactic Acid”. While biotic skincare is not exactly new, with brands such as But which is best? It seems that the jury is still out as brands Gallinee and Aurelia being early adopters, the research into it seek to develop formulas that are safe and well- preserved (no is ever evolving. “There is a massive amount of research at the mean feat when using live bacteria) whilst effectively promoting moment on the effect of certain pre, pro or post-biotics on acne a healthy microbiome for visible results. and eczema” says Dr Marie Drago Gallinée founder, who even revealed that some bacteria is being tested to prevent skin After three years of research Orveda launched a range of cancer. While consumer interest in the microbiome is certainly prebiotic skincare, Ulrich Katusevanako Head of New Product increasing, Mintel’s Global New Product Database revealed Development explained that although “probiotics are great but that mentions of ‘microbiome’ rose by 130% between 2018 and you need the bacteria to grow and be stronger, that’s why we 2019, there is still a lack of clarity about the differences and use the food”. As a company founded on biotechnology the respective benefits between biotic beauty. Indeed, in the last reasoning here is a suitably scientific one. “The prebiotics that 12 months worldwide searches for ‘probiotics vs prebiotics’ we use are a long chain of sugar that only the good bacteria have grown by 250%. can eat, this means that the bad bacteria will die as they are unable to eat them”, says Katusevanako. Orveda’s RespureTM Image: Gallinée Breathable Mist uses this technology, alongside targeted actives, to minimise sebum production. The prebiotics that are used rebalance the skin microbiota so that the sebum producing bacteria are able to survive or, indeed, thrive.
Probiotics have great soothing effects on the skin, amongst other benefits, but one of the challenges of using live bacteria in beauty products is safety and shelf life. To enable consumers to benefit from probiotics without having to worry about storage or freshness innovation is key. One brand making great strides in this direction is Be Radiance. The makeup brand proves that it’s not just skincare playing in the microbiome space as their pioneering range of powders and blushes use active probiotics that are protected in a first of its kind encapsulation that keeps the bacteria alive without going off. Once the powder is applied to the skin the sleeping bacteria is activated and left to work it’s magic, safely. For Dr Marie Drago the founder of Gallinée, the original microbiome champion, combining all three p-biotics has a synergistic effect that makes the results totally fascinating, “probiotics for their soothing effects, pre-
44 REPORT
biotics to feed your own microbiome and post-biotics to create the perfect environment for a healthy microbiome”. Nicolas Travis, Allies of Skin founder also supports using the trifecta noting that they “all work synergistically to help your skin function and look better”.
BEYOND SKINCARE It’s not just skincare that is tapping into the microbiome market; makeup, haircare and body care are also tapping into the idea that when it comes to beauty, bacteria is big business. The rise of mask wearing and more time spent indoors have all impacted consumers and left them seeking functional products with ingredients that support their health and wellbeing. “Microbiome is changing the face of makeup” notes Choupet, who’s pioneering makeup brand is one of the first cosmetics brands to utilise the skin health benefits of probiotics. Image: Good Skin Club Although Choupet admits that “makeup is behind in terms of innovation to be healthy” because consumers still think that As consumers seek specific products to support the health of skincare is key to a healthy complexion but forget that foundation every inch of the body, formulas that help to improve health sits directly on your skin, she is passionate about creating makeup holistically will gain popularity. Google trend searches for ‘probiotic that gives you better skin. Very few brands have launched new deodorant’ rose by 400% in the last 12 months, and Caudalie cosmetic products in this space but consumer interest in probiotic have responded to growing demand with a that supports the makeup is rising with recent data from Lumina intelligence finding underarm microflora via prebiotic grape water. Interest in scalp that online engagement with probiotic cosmetics has risen health is also on the rise with Mintel finding that 51% of European 450% over the past two years. There is a huge opportunity for consumers are interested in scalp treatments proving that there microbiome makeup to be the next beauty buzzword. is an opportunity for brands to invest in targeted treatments that strengthen the scalp to promote healthy hair. Another area Image: Unsplash that is being put under the microbiome microscope is the oral microbiome, as research begins to show that perhaps everything we thought about oral health hasn’t been entirely correct, Drago told us. “Up until now the solution had always been to kill all the bacteria in your mouth twice a day and hope they don’t come back” says Drago, whose brand Gallinée believes that we need to have a new approach to oral care because “99% of your mouth bacteria are good, and can help you fight the bad 1%”. The new Gallinée toothpaste uses prebitoics to feed and strengthen the good bacteria. A new toothpaste isn’t just the solution for pearly whites though; research is being done into the impact of your mouth microbiome on the rest of your body with suggestions being made that diseases like Parkinson’s could start in the mouth.
The microbiome beauty boom is only just beginning and while huge breakthroughs have been made Choupet admits that “today we have more questions than answers”. That’s not a bad thing for brands though, serious research and smart innovation will give them the opportunity to became early adopters in the bacteria boom. Understanding the microbiome will be a game changer in how we approach skin, hair, body and oral care, perhaps forever.
45 For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on [email protected] or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk
EVENTS
BEAUTYISTANBUL246 BUYERS FROM WEST AFRICA CONNECTED WITH BEAUTYISTANBUL EXHIBITORS
BEAUTYISTANBUL’s 13th and the last Online Regional Meeting hosted 246 buyers from 9 countries in West Africa region. Since September 2020, Online Meetings have connected 1.856 buyers from 104 countries and 9 regions with our exhibitors for free
West Africa Online Meeting was held on July 8th, JFF BEAUTY from Benin, WILL MARKET from Burkina presenting buyers from Benin, Burkina Faso, Gambia, Faso, GLOBAL COSMETICS from Gambia, ALL NEEDS Ghana, Guinea, Ivory Coast, Liberia, Mali and Senegal. SUPERMARKETS and INTERBRANDS from Ghana, 95 suppliers joined the meeting from 17 countries ACTOUM from Guinea, ARC EN CIEL DISTRIBUTION including Turkey, Italy, UK, Netherlands, Germany, and CHIMAFRIQUE from Ivory Coast, VILLE GROUP USA, Canada, Brazil, Russia, Croatia, Japan, Malaysia, OF COMPANIES from Liberia, KOROMY DISTRIBUTION Indonesia, India, Pakistan, Lebanon and Egypt. The from Mali, OMNIA and SMS GROUPE from Senegal. meeting started with welcoming remarks of Mr. Murat Buğra Karamış, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Accra-Ghana, Mr. Özgür İlhan Yalnız, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Dakar-Senegal, Mrs. Yeşim Piri, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Bamako-Mali, Mrs. Liliane Fernandeze Bassitche, Export Promotion and Development Officer for APEX Ivory Coast, Mr. James M. Strother, President of Liberian Business Association, Mr. Mamadou Dieng, Director Commercial of UNACOIS Senegal and Mrs. Patricia Badolo, Deputy Director of Burkina Faso Chamber of Commerce and Industry. The meeting continued with the introductory BEAUTYISTANBUL’s experienced visitor promotion speeches of selective buyers from each country team fluent in 10 languages shows its difference by and with the presentations of BEAUTYISTANBUL bringing together some of the biggest companies in exhibitors who are manufacturers and suppliers of the region to attend the online meetings. Become an cosmetics, beauty and home care products. Important exhibitor at BEAUTYISTANBUL now and benefit from buyers who were present at the meeting included all value-added business opportunities!
47 Dunlop - Engelsrufer 3 Senses GmbH B.Kolor B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. La Closerie des Parfums Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums Jette - Kaviar Gauche Senefelder Strasse 1/T4 Via Canonica, 79/A - Loc. Geromina ZI Gradignan Bersol Leonardo Essenza D-63110 Rodgau I-24047 Treviglio (BG) 11 Avenue de la Madeleine Lufthansa www.3senses.eu tel. +39/0363-590011 F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) Scotch & Soda [email protected] fax +39/0363-590212 tel +33/05.56.75.79.04 Acqua di Portofino Profumitalia s.r.l. [email protected] fax +33/05.56.75.53.36 Blue Pollack Via A. Costa, 2 www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com [email protected] Esse - Evody - Fabi I-20131 Milano Cale’ CALE’ s.r.l. www.lacloseriedesparfums.com Hugh Parsons - Panama tel. +39/02-45375660 Via S. Maria Podone, 5 Layla Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Pineider - Riva [email protected] I-20123 Milano Via dei Pestagalli, 21 www.profumitalia.it tel. +39/02-76002494 I-20138 Milano Acampora Profumi Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. fax +39/02-76009407 tel. +39-02/5062052 Via G. Filangieri, 72 ww.cale.it - [email protected] fax +39-02/5061160 I-80121 Napoli Charriol - Morgan Cofinluxe L’Erbolario L’Erbolario s.p.a. tel. +39/081.401701 Salvador Dalì 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi www.brunoacampora.com F-75017 Paris tel. +39/0371-4911 fax +39/0371-491411 Air-Val Air-Val Int. s.a. tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827 www.erbolario.com Beverly Hills Fragrances C/Miguel Servet, 27 Collistar Collistar s.p.a. E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano Locherber Cosval s.p.a. tel. +34-93/6355335 tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454 V.le delle Industrie 10/5 I-20020 Arese (MI) fax +34-93/6629806 Confalonieri Matite Confalonieri Matite s.r.l. tel. +39/02 935 80 479 Alyson Oldoini Parfums Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) fax +39/02 935 81 022 V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como tel. +39/0343-42011 www.cosvality.com Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 fax +39/0343 42000 I-20122 Milano www.confaloniericosmetica.com Lubin Lubin www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com confaloniericosmetica.com 3, rue du Roule F-75001 Paris Ancorotti Cosmetics Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Costume National Beauty San s.p.a. tel: +33-1/40677009 Via del Commercio, 1 Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato fax +33-1/45021316 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 tel. +39/0373-876811.21 www.beautysan.net Lumson Lumson S.p.A. Belotti Via Tesino, 62-64 fax +39/0373-876811 Farmeco Coverderm I-26010 Capergnanica (CR) Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. Antiqua Firenze Enzo Galardi Covermark tel. +39/0373-2331 GR-11147 Athens, Greece IO•KO Via Ilio Barontini 22 - fax +39-0373-233355 I-50018 Scandicci (FI) tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 www.lumson.com elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 [email protected] www.bois1920.it Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) M:PLUS Cosmetics M:PLUS Cosmetics Arômélia Arômélia tel. +39-02/89200150/167 fax +39-02/89200371 Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 21, Boulevard Haussmann I-20065 Inzago (MI) F-75009 Paris diego dalla palma Cosmetica s.r.l. www.mascaraplus.com tel. +33 (0) 156036603 diego dalla palma RVB Lab Via S. Carlo 28 [email protected] [email protected] I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911 The Merchant of Venice Mavive S.p.A. Ars Mirabile - CBN S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Furla - Police - Replay - Zippo Via Altinia, 298/B I-Care - Longevity Via della Liberazione, 56 Enrico Coveri Gold Manila Grace - Blauer USA I-30173 Venezia (Dese) M Masterpiece I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) Mariella Arduini I-20131 Milano - Via Filippo Lippi 10 Pino Silvestre - Monotheme tel. +39-041/5417771 tel. +39-02/98280925 tel. +39/02_795862 I Profumi di d’Annunzio fax +39-041/5417798 fax +39-02/98280975 www.goldmilano.it - [email protected] MI-RE MI-in Paris Fragrance division: The First s.p.a. Enrico Gi Fragrances Enrico Gi Fragrances 102, rue des Poissonniers Arrogance - GMV Via Fieno, 8 Via della Tecnica, 32 F-75018 Paris Valentina by Guido Crepax I-20123 Milano I-37066 Sommacampagna (VR) tel. +33/6-65299995 Cosmetic division: tel. +39-02/661381 tel. +39/045-8960480 www.mirecosmetics.com Pikenz fax +39-02/66138519 fax +39/045-8960482 [email protected] Astra Giufra S.r.l. www.enricogifragrances.com [email protected] Molinard Parfums Molinard Via Veneto, 152 60, boulevard Victor Hugo I-06059 Todi (PG) Exclusive division: Eurocosmesi F-06130 Grasse tel. +39-075.8987455 Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini Via Gobetti, 4 tel. +334-92423322 fax +39-075.8987691 Genny - Luciano Soprani I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) fax +334-89123068 Art Cosmetics Art Cosmetics s.r.l. Transvital tel. +39-051/6649238 [email protected] I-24050 Mozzanica (BG) Prestige division: fax +39-051/6649248 www.molinard.com Via E. Mattei, 17/c Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport Nesti Dante Nesti Dante s.r.l. tel. +39/0363-032011 Via della Molina, 39 www.artcosmetics.it - [email protected] Lola - Looney Tunes Renato Balestra - Rockford I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) Artdeco Artdeco Cosmetic Group tel. +39-055/8739401/2 Gaussstrasse 13 Franck Olivier Sodip fax 39-055/8739768 21, Boulevard Montmartre D-85757 Karlsfeld Nouba Nouba s.r.l. tel. +49/8131-390100 F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888 Via Bastia 5 - I-20139 Milano fax +49/8131 390129 tel. +39/02-35954290 Aubade - Montana Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents Giorgio Jäneke Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. www.nouba.it - [email protected] I-20050 Veduggio (MI) 4, Place Wagram Paglieri Paglieri s.p.a. F-75017 Paris tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. fax +39-0362/911100 S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 tel +33-1/42650072 I-15100 Alessandria fax +33-1/42650074 Grioni-Myc Group Grioni-Myc Group tel. +39-0131/213584 Alain Delon Art & Fragrance SA Via Cavour, 2 fax +39-0131/6186663 Jaguar - Lalique Bühlstrasse 1 c/o COMONEXT Innovation Hub www.grionipackaging.com Parfums Pergolèse Paris Parfums Pergolèse Paris Nikki Beach CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland 59, Rue De Miromesnil Parfums Grès Direct +41-43/4994532 Guudcure HSA GROUP S.p.A. F-75008 Paris Ultrasun Phone +41-43/4994500 Pollution Free Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 fax +41-43/4994502 I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com www.art-fragrance.com tel. +39/0332-476554 fax +39/03332-850307 Payot Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot Alessandro Dell’Acqua Euroitalia s.r.l. 10, boulevard du Parc Dsquared2 - Missoni Via G. Galilei, 1 [email protected] www.hsacosmetics.com F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine Moschino - John Richmond I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +331/55625454 Joseph Abboud tel. +39-02/95916.1 Henry Cotton’s - Ducati Diamond International s.r.l. [email protected] Naj Oleari - Versace fax +39-02/95916500 Gattinoni - Juventus Via Foce Cesano,4/9 www.payot.com Mcs - Monello Mascalzone I-60019 Senigalla (AN) Amarena Eurostyle s.p.a. Pupa Micy’s Company s.p.a. Bella Oggi I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D NY League tel. +39/071-6610226 fax +39/071-6611104 Miss Milkie Via De Gasperi, 22 Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-081/5108427 [email protected] www.difragrances.com tel. +39-039/92341 fax +39-081/3158162 fax +39-039/89205859 www.amarenamakeup.com Inika Organic Inika Organic Rancé Rancé & C. s.r.l. [email protected] 813 Springvale Road, - Mulgrave Via Lombardini, 10 VIC - Australia 3170 Aquolina - Baldinini Selectiva s.p.a. I-20143 Milano tel. + 61 3 8544 80000 Paglieri 1876 S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 tel. +39-02/58100855 [email protected] Pink Sugar I-15100 Alessandria fax +39-02/89401058 nd tel. +39-0131/213584 Intertrade Europe HI Intertrade Europe Sandalia Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. 2 International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair fax +39-0131/6186663 Via Portogallo,11/125 I-07041 Alghero (SS) I-35127 Padova Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser IDESA-Angelini Group tel. + 39/340 3872516 tel. +39-049/7625241 Home Care, Private Label, Packaging, Ingredients Custo - Joaquín Cortés Via Augusta, 59-9 www.acquadisardegna.it fax +39-049/762 5177 Mandarina Duck - Yekipé E-08006 Barcelona info@officinaprofumeriasarda tel. +34-93/2920891 Jean Couturier VAG & Distribution Salvatore Ferragamo Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. fax +34-93/2176881 Léonard 6, rue Pasquier Ungaro Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 F-75008 Paris Axis - Hoops - Elanzia INCC Group I-20123 Firenze tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210 Esprit de Versailles 85, avenue de Saint Cloud tel. +39-055/33601 October 13 - 14 - 15, 2021 Mercedes-Benz F-78000 Versailles Jesus del Pozo Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. fax +39-055/3360734 Isla del Hierro, 5 Monaco - Yujin tel. +33/1-39670671 Roberto Verino Teatro Fragranze Uniche Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. ICC - Istanbul Congress Center - Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey fax + 33/1-39670672 Starck - Tous E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 www.inccgroup-parfums-com tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849 I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) Balmain Parfums - Celine Interparfums Kiko Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. tel. +39/055.4212240 Lanvin - Paul Smith - Roxi 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Via Depretis, 6/9 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it Organizer Van Cleef & Arpels F-75008 Paris I-24122 Bergamo [email protected] www.beauty-istanbul.com Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc tel. +33/1-53770000 tel. +39-035/3693611 fax +33/1-53763626 fax +39-035/3693612 Tel: +90 212 2229060 | +90 533 4843030 | [email protected] 2nd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Home Care, Private Label, Packaging, Ingredients
October 13 - 14 - 15, 2021 ICC - Istanbul Congress Center - Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey
www.beauty-istanbul.com Organizer
Tel: +90 212 2229060 | +90 533 4843030 | [email protected] copertina_astra.indd 1 07/07/21 18:45