The Inside: M WOMEN YELL ‘FORE’/11 LANVIN RESTRUCTURES/3 o Pg. 12 stE WWD ffe Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 1, 2004 • $2.00 ctive T List VAd WWDTHURSDAY s Sportswear Silver Belle LOS ANGELES — Mastering the art of mixing high- glam looks with comfortable athletic fare, 21-year- old Jenni Kayne sent out a wonderful collection Tuesday night to a packed house with a star-studded front row. No longer playing to a girly sensibility, Kayne went luxe this season with pinstriped suits, satin cocktail dresses and sequined skirts, such as this short number, worn with a cashmere hoodie and leather stovepipe pants. For more on the L.A. collections, see page 6. Bulgari’s Russian Night: Luxe Brand Heads North To Launch Diamond Line By Amanda Kaiser ST. PETERSBURG, Russia — There is still the occasional snow squall here, but the biggest ice seen recently was Bulgari’s unveiling Wednesday of its new line of diamond jewelry. Leaving behind the glow of its native Roman sun, the jeweler chose Russia’s canaled city to present the collection, called Astrale. Most of the line’s rings, bracelets and pendants feature concentric circle patterns of white gold and pavé diamonds. The collection should help boost Bulgari’s profile in the increasingly See Bulgari, Page5 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL FASHION: Mason and 21-year-old Jenni Kayne, who drew celebs from Owen ™ 6 Wilson and Jared Leto to Farrah Fawcett, were highlights as the shows continued. Leaving behind the glow of its native Roman sun, Bulgari chose St. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 1 Petersburg to unveil its latest line, Astrale. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated As Gucci Group prepares to release financial results today, analysts expect 3 strong sales in the fourth quarter but a drop in net profits for the year. TAKE CARE Citing the need to lighten its debt load, Dan River on Wednesday filed for Women contemplate care and content labels 8 Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in Georgia’s northern district court. Facing what it calls “a deteriorated economic situation,” Lanvin plans to lay For decades, women have recognized the natural fibers like cotton,” reveals the fabric quality 3 off up to 65 people and exit the perfume and watch businesses. importance of reading labels when it comes to their expert. And as statistics from the Monitor report, EYE: Liane Weintraub shakes up the L.A. dance scene; Celebrations for nutrition, and it seems that they’re beginning to 58% of women in 2003 were willing to pay more for 4 Vivienne Westwood and Sofia Coppola. apply that same level of concern when it comes to a natural fiber such as cotton. Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 their wardrobes. And when it comes to cotton, it seems customers To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is When female consumers were asked by the Cotton are asking for it by name. Relates Jerry Eckstein, vice [email protected], using the individual's name. Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ as to how often president of Val D’Or/Cannon County Knitting WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 they checked apparel content Mills, an apparel manufacturing FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 187, NO. 68. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional and care labels, 37% of women firm based in New York City, issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 claimed that they always do, “We know that the consumer is West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; an additional 20% claimed to looking for 100% cotton Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior usually check, followed by 29% because that is what the majority Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at who sometimes did. of our clients are asking us to additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration And that’s likely because they manufacture.” When asked No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. want to keep the garment why an all cotton fabrication is FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is looking fresh, neat, and as good so important, he cites, “The required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new as the day that they bought it, main reason is comfort, but subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production “Women want value from their correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, surmises Norma Keyes, director garments, and the best way to get the there’s also the wearability, the please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild of fiber quality research at performance and the hand.” magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully most for their money is to care for screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Cotton Incorporated. “Women clothing properly.” Eckstein continues, “Cotton these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. want value from their garments, lives up to the customer’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED – Norma Keyes MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND and the best way to get the most expectations in performance. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Cotton Incorporated WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED for their money is to care for It has great durability and TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE clothing properly,” she shares. washability.” Women seem to share in Ecktein’s ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. “Women have an investment in their wardrobes,” assessment, according to the Monitor. A mere one agrees Alan Spielvogel, director of technical services percent of female respondents claim that they for the National Cleaners Association (NCA), a always hand wash their cotton garments, while a In Brief professional trade association dedicated to the significant 43% share that they never do, and an education, research and information distribution of additional 42% only occasionally wash their ● garment and household fabric care. He adds, clothes by hand. TENDER GOES IT: Adidas-Salomon announced Wednesday an offer to purchase the 20.8 percent of Salomon & Taylor Made Co. “Taking care of a garment lengthens its lifespan." For many women, however, it’s not what’s in a it doesn’t already own. The offer for shares in the maker of its And as Monitor data supports, 39% of women garment but what is not. In 2003, 57% of women secondary brands is expected to last 43 days. Adidas-Salomon are largely propelled to consult the care label for just confessed to the Monitor that they avoided particular touted full ownership as a route to operational efficiency and that reason; an additional 32% cited protecting the fabrics. The fabrics most likely to be avoided were Japanese expansion. garment from shrinkage as an additional factor for wool and polyester, at 33% and 28% respectively. ● COATS WILL WAIT: BCBG Max Azria and its licensing partner abiding by the instructions. “Women want to ensure Comfort – or rather discomfort – was the key Winlit Group Ltd. have postponed the launch of the BCBG Max that their apparel fits and wears as well as the first day reason cited by respondents as to why they avoided Azria outerwear collection for women until fall 2005. Men’s will they wore it,” Keyes says. these fabrics. follow a season or two later. Originally slated to bow for women this fall, the line was delayed due to a late start in the compa- And that holds true whether they are machine Says Cotton Incorporated’s Keyes, “The hand, the nies’ creative schedules. The collection will offer furs, rainwear, washing, hand washing or dry cleaning. “Women weave and the weight of a fabric has to feel good to the leathers, luxury wools and active styles and is expected to need to assess what’s best for their garments on a touch, but it also has to feel good when the garment is wholesale from $110 to $440.