The Inside: M WOMEN YELL ‘FORE’/11 LANVIN RESTRUCTURES/3 o Pg. 12 stE WWD ffe Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 1, 2004 • $2.00 ctive T List VAd WWDTHURSDAY s Sportswear Silver Belle LOS ANGELES — Mastering the art of mixing high- glam looks with comfortable athletic fare, 21-year- old Jenni Kayne sent out a wonderful collection Tuesday night to a packed house with a star-studded front row. No longer playing to a girly sensibility, Kayne went luxe this season with pinstriped suits, satin cocktail dresses and sequined skirts, such as this short number, worn with a cashmere hoodie and leather stovepipe pants. For more on the L.A. collections, see page 6.

Bulgari’s Russian Night: Luxe Brand Heads North To Launch Diamond Line By Amanda Kaiser ST. PETERSBURG, Russia — There is still the occasional snow squall here, but the biggest ice seen recently was Bulgari’s unveiling Wednesday of its new line of diamond jewelry. Leaving behind the glow of its native Roman sun, the jeweler chose Russia’s canaled city to present the collection, called Astrale. Most of the line’s rings, bracelets and pendants feature concentric circle patterns of white gold and pavé diamonds. The collection should help boost Bulgari’s profile in the increasingly See Bulgari, Page5 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL FASHION: Mason and 21-year-old Jenni Kayne, who drew celebs from Owen ™ 6 Wilson and Jared Leto to Farrah Fawcett, were highlights as the shows continued. Leaving behind the glow of its native Roman sun, Bulgari chose St. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 1 Petersburg to unveil its latest line, Astrale. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated As Gucci Group prepares to release financial results today, analysts expect 3 strong sales in the fourth quarter but a drop in net profits for the year. TAKE CARE Citing the need to lighten its debt load, Dan River on Wednesday filed for Women contemplate care and content labels 8 Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in Georgia’s northern district court. Facing what it calls “a deteriorated economic situation,” Lanvin plans to lay For decades, women have recognized the natural fibers like cotton,” reveals the fabric quality 3 off up to 65 people and exit the perfume and watch businesses. importance of reading labels when it comes to their expert. And as statistics from the Monitor report, EYE: Liane Weintraub shakes up the L.A. dance scene; Celebrations for nutrition, and it seems that they’re beginning to 58% of women in 2003 were willing to pay more for 4 Vivienne Westwood and Sofia Coppola. apply that same level of concern when it comes to a natural fiber such as cotton. Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 their wardrobes. And when it comes to cotton, it seems customers To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is When female consumers were asked by the Cotton are asking for it by name. Relates Jerry Eckstein, vice [email protected], using the individual's name.

Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ as to how often president of Val D’Or/Cannon County Knitting WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 they checked apparel content Mills, an apparel manufacturing FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 187, NO. 68. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional and care labels, 37% of women firm based in New York City, issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 claimed that they always do, “We know that the consumer is West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; an additional 20% claimed to looking for 100% cotton Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior usually check, followed by 29% because that is what the majority Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at who sometimes did. of our clients are asking us to additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration And that’s likely because they manufacture.” When asked No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. want to keep the garment why an all cotton fabrication is FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is looking fresh, neat, and as good so important, he cites, “The required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new as the day that they bought it, main reason is comfort, but subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production “Women want value from their correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, surmises Norma Keyes, director garments, and the best way to get the there’s also the wearability, the please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild of fiber quality research at performance and the hand.” magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully most for their money is to care for screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Cotton Incorporated. “Women clothing properly.” Eckstein continues, “Cotton these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. want value from their garments, lives up to the customer’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED – Norma Keyes MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND and the best way to get the most expectations in performance. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Cotton Incorporated WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED for their money is to care for It has great durability and TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE clothing properly,” she shares. washability.” Women seem to share in Ecktein’s ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. “Women have an investment in their wardrobes,” assessment, according to the Monitor. A mere one agrees Alan Spielvogel, director of technical services percent of female respondents claim that they for the National Cleaners Association (NCA), a always hand wash their cotton garments, while a In Brief professional trade association dedicated to the significant 43% share that they never do, and an education, research and information distribution of additional 42% only occasionally wash their ● garment and household fabric care. He adds, clothes by hand. TENDER GOES IT: Adidas-Salomon announced Wednesday an offer to purchase the 20.8 percent of Salomon & Taylor Made Co. “Taking care of a garment lengthens its lifespan." For many women, however, it’s not what’s in a it doesn’t already own. The offer for shares in the maker of its And as Monitor data supports, 39% of women garment but what is not. In 2003, 57% of women secondary brands is expected to last 43 days. Adidas-Salomon are largely propelled to consult the care label for just confessed to the Monitor that they avoided particular touted full ownership as a route to operational efficiency and that reason; an additional 32% cited protecting the fabrics. The fabrics most likely to be avoided were Japanese expansion. garment from shrinkage as an additional factor for wool and polyester, at 33% and 28% respectively. ● COATS WILL WAIT: BCBG Max Azria and its licensing partner abiding by the instructions. “Women want to ensure Comfort – or rather discomfort – was the key Winlit Group Ltd. have postponed the launch of the BCBG Max that their apparel fits and wears as well as the first day reason cited by respondents as to why they avoided Azria outerwear collection for women until fall 2005. Men’s will they wore it,” Keyes says. these fabrics. follow a season or two later. Originally slated to bow for women this fall, the line was delayed due to a late start in the compa- And that holds true whether they are machine Says Cotton Incorporated’s Keyes, “The hand, the nies’ creative schedules. The collection will offer furs, rainwear, washing, hand washing or dry cleaning. “Women weave and the weight of a fabric has to feel good to the leathers, luxury wools and active styles and is expected to need to assess what’s best for their garments on a touch, but it also has to feel good when the garment is wholesale from $110 to $440. case-by-case basis, and the label establishes the placed on the body. It’s about how it wears and allows ● GARDENS GROW: Forbes Co. will begin renovating The appropriate level of care,” NCA’s Spielvogel asserts. for movement, as much as it is about looking good.” Gardens of the Palm Beaches Mall in Palm Beach Gardens, “It depends on the garment Reasons for Looking at Care Labels With age comes wisdom, Fla., this fall. The 1.4-million-square-foot mall opened in 1988, and wearing conditions.” the saying goes. And when it and is anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s Cristi Conaway, a Los (Females 16-70) comes to caring for garments, and Sears, with about 160 special shops and restaurants. A 144,000-square-foot Nordstrom will open in spring 2006 in a Angeles-based designer, cer- Want to know how to care for item 39% that statement most definitely So won't shrink 32% portion of the 215,000-square-foot Burdine’s space. After clos- tainly keeps the label in mind bears itself out. According to ing this summer, most of the Burdine’s building will be demol- when creating her eponymous So won't fade 13% the Monitor, women who ished and rebuilt by Nordstrom. The remaining space will be collections. “Consumers most So will last/durability 7% claimed to always follow care used for around 12 mall stores that will open in February 2006. Macy’s will add 90,000 square feet of home furnishings definitely look at their care So won't wrinkle 9% label instructions in apparel Item was expensive 7% and furniture to its current 215,000-square-foot store, which labels for how to take care of increased considerably by age All other 11% will be officially renamed Burdine’s-Macy’s and open in 2006. their garments,” she notes. category. In 2003, 28% of The existing Saks store will add around 35,000 square feet of But how to specifically care for an item, dry women ages 16 to 24 said that they always followed space. The Nordstrom store will be its seventh Florida loca- tion and the third in Palm Beach County. A Nordstrom will cleaning or otherwise, is not likely to deter women care instructions, as compared to 39% among those also open in November at Dadeland Mall in Miami. Though from making a purchase. As Kim Johnson, principal 25 to 34, 51% from 35 to 55, and 59% among those not a part of the renovation, specialty store openings at The of Johnson, a boutique on the Lower East Side of between the ages of 55 to 70. Gardens this May include Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co. and Manhattan, attests, “I’ve never had a customer not buy Concludes Keyes, “The label is there for a reason.” Tommy Bahama. And that seems to be a lesson best learned early on in something because of the specific care instructions.” ● JONES SUES MAXWELL: Jones Apparel Group Inc. and MSC Adds New York-based fashion publicist, Maren life. Your clothes will thank you. Acquisition Corp., an indirect wholly owned subsidiary of Roth, “If I like something, I’m going to buy it This story is one in a series of articles based on findings Jones, have filed a lawsuit in the Court of Chancery of the State of Delaware against the Maxwell Shoe Co. Inc. and its regardless of whether it needs be hand washed, from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ machine washed or dry cleaned. The bottom line board of directors. The lawsuit charges that Maxwell and its tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, board’s attempt to set a deadline of March 25, 2004, for any pos- for me is what I like, not what is convenient.” each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the sible future solicitation of Maxwell’s stockholders by Jones or But there’s another reason that labels exist, and American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes MSC is improper because the solicitation has yet to begin. The that’s for establishing fabric content, concedes and behavior regarding clothing, lawsuit charges the action is invalid under Delaware law, and garment guru Keyes. “Care and content labels are appearance, fashion, fiber selection and violates Maxwell’s Certificate of Incorporation. As reported, Jones is trying to purchase Maxwell and has offered sharehold- particularly important when women are looking for many other timely, relevant subjects. ers $20 a share. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 3 Analysts Foresee Surge Gucci Names Bédos CEO at Boucheron PARIS — Gucci Group on Wednesday named and its parent, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute, have Jean-Christophe Bédos the new chief executive repeatedly denied. officer of Boucheron, effective May 1. This con- Earlier this year, Gucci Group scuttled an am- In Gucci’s 4th-Qtr. Sales firms a report in WWD March 25. bitious expansion plan for Boucheron, opening Bédos, a 15-year veteran of Cartier and its par- a Bottega Veneta flagship in New York in a Fifth ent, Compagnie Financiere Richemont, will suc- Avenue space originally earmarked for the By Amanda Kaiser ceed Brian Blake, an executive vice president at famed jewelry brand. Year-old shops in Hono- Gucci Group. Part of Domenico De Sole’s original lulu and Milan were also shuttered, leaving a MILAN — As Gucci Group pre- turnaround team at Gucci, Blake is among the total of 25 locations as of Jan. 31. pares to release its last set of fi- senior executives following De Sole and designer Bédos becomes the fourth chief executive at nancial results of the Dom and Tom Ford out the door later this month. Boucheron since it was acquired by Gucci Group Tom era today, analysts are ex- Bédos, 39, is currently managing director of in May 2000 as part of an acquisition spree. pecting strong sales momentum Cartier France, where he is responsible for During his one-year tenure, Blake focused on in the fourth quarter but a de- seven of Richemont’s luxury brands, including Boucheron’s key markets — France, the U.K. and cline in net profits for the year. Cartier, Baume & Mercier and Piaget. His suc- Japan — and the product range. In the quarter, sales are ex- cessor at Cartier has yet to be named. Recent efforts have concentrated on enlarging pected to be up by double digits At Boucheron, Bédos will be faced with turn- Boucheron’s offerings with more accessible price for the group, with net profits ing around a jewelry, watch and fragrance house points, including a line of licensed eyewear, and a slightly down due in part to that has been struggling, and recently rumored new fragrance, Trouble. higher taxes. Full-year net profit to be on the selling block, which Gucci Group — Miles Socha is seen dropping by as much as 24 percent, while sales are seen rising about 4 percent. These are likely to be the last set of financial results for Gucci as a listed company. As reported, Lanvin to Nix Perfume, Watch Businesses majority shareholder Pinault- Printemps-Redoute is launching PARIS — Facing what it calls “a ported March 12 that Lanvin was Chief executive Nicolas Druz a tender offer for all of the Gucci deteriorated economic situa- trimming headcount in its beauty exited last November and was shares it doesn’t already own. This will be Gucci’s last financial tion,” Lanvin plans to lay off up division. Lanvin chief executive replaced by Chu, who is Wang’s The offer period is expected posting under ceo Domenico De Sole. to 65 people and exit the per- Sing-Ming Chu also said cuts son. Chu said Wang was also to start today in the U.S. and fume and watch businesses in would affect its men’s wear area, seeking a minority partner, but is Friday in the Netherlands and shares, it can launch a “squeeze an effort to stem heavy losses. where manufacturing costs are no longer on the hunt. expire on April 29. PPR current- out” to tempt any stragglers and The 115-year-old French fash- deemed too high. Men’s wear Chu declined to say who the ly owns 67.58 percent of Gucci de-list the company. ion and fragrance firm, majority represented about 40 percent of new fragrance licensee might be Group and is offering $85.52 per In the meantime, PPR has owned since July 2001 by 2003 turnover, he noted. and stressed that the restructur- share, as reported. kept a tight lid on who will suc- Taiwanese publishing magnate Women’s rtw will remain in- ing package remains a proposal. PPR has said it is willing to ceed Domenico De Sole as Gucci Shaw-Lan Wang, said Wednesday tact. Women’s rtw sales, while He also stressed Lanvin would spend an additional $3.17 bil- chief executive officer. it planned to “recenter” the representing only 16 percent of not assign a licensee unless it lion, or 2.6 billion euros, to ac- The French retail conglomer- brand on luxury ready-to-wear the brand’s total, have increased gets the terms it wants. How- quire up to 100 percent of Gucci, ate has only said it will make an for men and women, its core tenfold since the arrival two ever, it is believed a name like for a total cost of $8.78 billion, or announcement before the end of businesses, while seeking a li- years ago of designer Alber Lanvin could interest the pres- 7.2 billion euros. the put. Last month, four internal cense for its perfumes. Elbaz, Chu said. tige divisions of Procter & Gucci shares closed at $69.25, Tom Ford-trained designers were Losses last year swelled to Elbaz, who joined Lanvin Gamble or Wella. down 1.28 percent, in trading named as his successors at the $26.8 million, or 22 million euros, after stints at Krizia Top, Yves Since the takeover, Lanvin Wednesday on the Amsterdam design helm of Gucci and YSL. on sales of $97.6 million, or 79.3 Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and has launched a few scents, in- Stock Exchange. As for the results, analysts say million euros. (Dollar figures are Guy Laroche, has won critical cluding Eclat d’Arpege, in 2002, But if the French retail group they expect a swift pickup in converted from euros at current and commercial acclaim for his meant to lure thirtysomething ends up with less than 85 percent fourth-quarter Gucci brand sales in exchange.) Lanvin said the re- feminine and elegant designs. women, and Lanvin Vetyver, in at the end of this month’s put, all regions, in line with earlier structuring plan, which requires Still, rumors have swirled 2003, a men’s fragrance targeting Gucci remains a publicly traded guidance from the company and worker approval in France, about the firm’s future since Wang 30- to 40-year-olds. company, with PPR in full con- supporting the theory that shop- would reduce fixed costs by led a group of investors known as In the U.S., Lanvin women’s trol of management. If it ends up pers want to stock up on Gucci about 25 percent. Harmonie SA to buy Lanvin from wear is carried by such retailers with between 85 and 95 percent, items before Ford’s departure. “We Lanvin employs 300 people L’Oréal three years ago. Wang as Barneys New York, Nordstrom PPR can make a subsequent are expecting a Tom Ford effect. worldwide, of which 207 are in quietly shopped the company and Saks Fifth Avenue. World- offer for two additional weeks. People are probably rushing to buy France. Forty-six of the affected around last year, according to nu- wide, there are 27 Lanvin bou- Finally, if PPR ends up with the last items,” said one analyst. jobs are in France, mostly in the merous sources, and there have tiques, corners and franchises, more than 95 percent of Gucci Continued on page 5 fragrance department. WWD re- been several leadership changes. the lion’s share of them in Asia.

the runway cause: He’s set to decide several times only to have their on one of three locations under cigarettes ripped from their hands by Andrew Bolton consideration for the brand’s first the restaurant staff. and Anna Sui Fashion Scoops Los Angeles door. “If we are lucky, we will open a store here by PAN HANDLERS: With National Tartan BLACKOUT: Color in springtime? Who went for a sleek a black Dior September,” promises Dalmau. Week, Scotland’s annual marketing needs it? That seems to be the case number, topped with a black leather promotion, under way, there was in Paris, where stars attending this jacket. The festival closes Tuesday. bound to be another round of placing week’s Paris Film Festival are EXTRA, VALEXTRA: With Customs men in uncomfortable situations for rediscovering the power of the little agents cracking down on exotic skin the sake of publicity, and Monday black dress. On opening night, WEK THIS WAY: For boosters of Los imports into the U.S., more than a night was a case in point when Rufus Monica Bellucci, star of Frederic Angeles Fashion Week, the sight handful of fashion companies have Albemarle, Mipam Thurman, Tim Schoendoerffer’s “Secret Agents,” Tuesday night of a bona fide been coming up with creative means Schifter, Charles Askegaard and supermodel on a runway served as of transporting samples into the U.S. several other New Yorkers took part Monica another sign of validation for the A lot of talk at a dinner party at Da in a “Man with a Pan” cooking class Bellucci fledgling showcase. And the packed Silvano in New York on Tuesday night, sponsored by Dewar’s at Marquee. in Dior. house showed its appreciation, hosted by Massimo Suppancig, chief “I get to wear my kilt,” said Eric loudly, when out walked Alek Wek, executive officer of Valextra, centered Villency, who was assigned to a team along with five other models flown in on just how the company managed to working on appetizers under the horse manure” — most of them from New York for the Custo bring its $20,000 pink crocodile bag direction of Aquavit’s Marcus headed for dinner at a restaurant Barcelona presentation at Mercedes- to Bergdorf Goodman for a 10-day Samuelsson. down the street. Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox sales event. It turns out a staff “This time, he’s wearing the skirt Studios. An L.A.-runway first for the member carried the bag on the plane and I’m wearing the pants,” pointed THE BRIT IS COMING? Perched front quirky Spanish brand, which as if it were her personal bag, only to out his companion, Olivia Chantecaille. and center at the Lloyd Klein show, introduced the collection in New face an unexpected adventure of The results of the assorted chefs fuchsia-coiffed designer Zandra York, the show sent photographers avoiding spilled red wine and coffee were somewhat questionable, with Rhodes hinted that she might show into a flashing frenzy by attracting stains during the duration of the few takers for a dessert prepared by in Los Angeles next season: “I’ll see the week’s first substantial batch of flight. Valextra sold 30 of its luxury Askegaard and Andrew Bolton, what happens. California is such a celebs — Taryn Manning, Jack handbags during the 10-day event, associate curator of the Costume strategic position and I’ve been

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY Osbourne, Djimon Hounsou, Amy making it worth the effort. Institute at the Metropolitan getting more and more interest in my showed off her curves in a sliver of Smart and Nicky Hilton. “I used to do Another endangered species — Museum of Art, whose main clothes. They’re very light and floaty, silk by Christian Dior, while Elsa the little downtown shows here years the smoker — had less luck at the responsibility was chopping ideal for this area, anyway!” At least Zylberstein made her entrance on ago, and I can’t believe how far event. As guests like Milly de Cabrol, bananas. Vivienne Tam, Yeohlee and one thing is certain: Rhodes’ past Karl Lagerfeld’s arm in a black satin they’ve come,” gushed model- Anne McNally, Nicoletta Santoro, Gigi Anna Sui had turned out to cheer work is a hot commodity on the local Chanel. Charlize Theron was turned-actress Jennifer Gimenez. But Mortimer, Marisa Noel Brown and him on, but once the dish was vintage market. “If I hadn’t saved attending the French premier of designer Custo Dalmau, who hits Fabien Basabe looked on, Rena Sindi completed with a heavy dose of my clothes when I first started, I “Monster” in another part of town, town every couple of months, has and Ann Jones repeatedly defied New chocolate pudding — which one certainly couldn’t afford to buy them but she got the fashion memo: She more on his mind than advancing York’s smoking ban, lighting up guest described as “looking like back!” she laughed. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 Westwood’s Way DANCING QUEEN LONDON — They came in pirate hats with feathers as tall as sunflower stalks, curvy LOS ANGELES — Los Angeles dresses with bustles and spiky punk hairdos. might be known for many cultural eye® The party to kick off the Vivienne Westwood phenomena, but dance isn’t one exhibition at the Victoria and Albert of them. Museum was a champagne-fueled homage to While New York, Paris and the mother of punk fashion, who once said “You have a London attract fleet-footed much better life if you wear impressive clothes.” ballerinas like moths to a flame, the “She is a British icon and she has surpassed fashion,” dancescape in Southern California said Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, who joined Rose has remained relatively dim, despite Marie Bravo, Kate Moss, Jefferson Hack, Mary McCartney, being the birthplace of Darci Kistler, Tracey Emin, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Erin O’Connor, Bay Heather Watts and Kyra Nichols. Garnett, Karen Elson, Sadie Frost, Manolo Blahnik and Thirty-five-year-old philanthropist Jerry Hall to fete the designer. “Long ago, she formed a Liane Weintraub, however, is set on very strong opinion about fashion, and she’s had the shaking things up. integrity to stand by it.” “L.A. should be a dance town,” Moss said she’s been collecting Westwood pieces for declares the Manhattan native- years. “I’ve loved her since I was 14. I used to make turned-Malibu resident, who was special trips to London to buy her clothes.” raised on “Swan Lake” wishes and Most agreed Westwood is a designer of many talents. “Nutcracker” dreams at Lincoln “She puts curves where you haven’t got them,” said Leah Center. “We’re home to a world- Liane Weintraub Wood, a sentiment echoed by Sam Taylor-Wood: “The best class symphony and opera — it’s thing about Westwood’s clothes? Breasts and bums.” not as if culture is unheard of here.” Earlier in the day, Westwood, who was sporting two Ironically, it was the small silver devil horns in her carrot-colored hair, talked dominance of the L.A. about the show — the largest the V&A has ever dedicated KKaatete Moss and Sadie Frost Philharmonic and the Los Angeles to a British designer. It features 150 designs from the Opera that kept dance from museum and from Westwood’s personal archive and finding a home at the Music traces three decades of her work, from the days of black Center (L.A.’s version of Lincoln leather and peekaboo zippers to the punk buckles and Center). But this year’s opening of snaps, to her watershed Pirate collection with its famous Frank Gehry’s Disney Concert baggy breeches. Hall, where Weintraub’s husband, “I’ve fallen in love with these pieces all over again,” 37-year-old real estate developer said Westwood, wearing a dusty rose silk dress decorated Richard Weintraub, sits on the with little, sparkly bug pins. “I have a new appreciation board, meant that dance Michele Wiles, Gillian Murphy and for all the skill and technique. This is an oeuvre.” companies were finally able to Erica Cornejo in “Within You Without Westwood said her approach to constructing clothes is book curtain time. You: A Tribute to George Harrison” more than meets the eye. “There’s a lot of trickery that This year marks the city’s first with costumes by Calvin Klein. goes on in my studio. I try to develop ready-to-wear official dance season, highlighted clothes that look like couture but that are affordable. by a 10-day American Ballet Theater run opening tonight. Weintraub, founder Fashion should be worn and used. It is an applied art, not of the four-year-old membership committee known as Center Dance a crusade.” Association, has led the effort to bring companies like Alvin Ailey American Regardless of the individual theme, the thread that Dance Theater, the Bolshoi Ballet, Dance Theater of Harlem, the Joffrey weaves its way through all of her collections is that the Ballet and Paul Taylor Dance Co. to L.A. during the past few years, while clothes are always “heroic.” “They are larger than life, raising $2 million and dipping into her own considerable coffers. they help strike a figure, they have a sense of adventure After graduating from Columbia 12 years ago, Weintraub came to L.A. with about them. These clothes are strong and extreme. They Manolo Blahnik Xabier Arakistain the intention of spending a year here. Instead, she met her husband and never don’t hide you — they help you.” looked back. She’s since earned an M.A. in journalism from USC and found her The designer called her Pirate collection the crucible niche among this city’s moneyed, though low-key, art patron milieu. of her style and technique. “With that collection, I Though she’s always been media shy and finds the game of getting realized what I could do with ethnic and historical press “a little daunting,” Weintraub says it’s time to step up to the plate in cutting.” Indeed, the exhibition explains how Westwood order to gain support. “Now our biggest challenge is to reach out to an hit the history books and learned special sewing audience and gain their loyalty. Many important people in this city have techniques to create the loose-cut trousers of 18th- been burned before,” she says, referring to past attempts to fund dance century men’s clothing. companies and performance seasons. But Weintraub believes that nurturing While she may be a member of fashion royalty, a whole new generation of dance lovers is equally important. “You probably Westwood is no princess — or so she says. “I brought my love it, you just may not know it yet.” mother here to see the show the other day and she said: — Marcy Medina ‘Vivienne, I don’t know where you dreamed all of this up.’ I told her it wasn’t dreaming, it was just hard work.” As for the little silver horns, “They’re pagan. The

Renaissance rediscovered paganism, and the 16th century MCMULLAN R; DANES: PATRICK LOST CAUSE: Since was English culture for me: Queen Elizabeth I, Shakespeare the film opened last and Pope.” And knowing a fashion moment when she sees September, the “Lost in one, for her big night, Westwood made sure to swap the Translation” journey silver horns for diamond ones, courtesy of De Beers. for Sofia Coppola has — Samantha Conti and Ellen Burney been one long party, from premieres to awards ceremonies and finally culminating with this week’s MoMA benefit, “A Work in Progress: An Evening Christopher Bailey With Sofia Coppola,” and Rose Marie Bravo and Rose Marie Bravo which took a look back at her expansive career of two feature films. “We’re done now, Kirsten Dunst we’re done,” Coppola inin LouisLouis VuittonVuitton Kyra assured the crowd at with Sofia Coppola Sedgwick Metronome, which inin HelmutHelmut Lang.Lang. inin Prada.Prada. included Claire Danes, Anna Sui, Jimmy Fallon, Quentin Tarantino, “Virgin Suicides” star Kirsten Dunst, and her Claire boyfriend, Jake Gyllenhaal, none of whom Danes in appeared to tire of celebrating the young Adam turk’s success. Jones. Even normally grumpy Bill Murray’s patience didn’t appear to be wearing thin. “I never did follow a movie all the way like this,” Murray admitted. “But they made it kind of fun.” And Marcia Gay Harden, eight months pregnant with twins, seemed to be holding up just fine, thank you very much. “I guess Lizzie Jagger I’m sturdy. Got them birthin’ hips,” and Jerry Hall Vivienne Westwood Tracey Emin Mary McCartney Harden quipped. WESTWOOD PARTY PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS; WEINTRAUB: TYLER BOYE; DANCE STILL: LESLIE KEE; COPPOLA, TYLER BOYE; DUNST AND SEDGWICK: STEVE EICHNE TIM JENKINS; WEINTRAUB: PHOTOS BY WESTWOOD PARTY WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 5

Designs from Bulgari’s Bulgari Unveils a Russian Dressing new Astrale collection. Continued from page one Bulgari also unveiled some of its more colorful haute the year have been encouraging, especially those in the important Russian market. Luxury brands from Louis jewelry pieces here. Chunky chokers and dangly ear- U.S. and Asia. Vuitton to Burberry are rushing in to capitalize on the rings abound, dripping with sapphires in pastel hues Trapani said that Europe is still suffering from weak growing wealth of the Russian consumer, who more and like pink, purple, aqua and yellow. Diamonds and col- tourist flows but that Bulgari is reaching out to local cus- more prefers to shop at home rather than abroad. ored pearls intersperse the stones. There are also more tomers in those markets to partially offset the phenome- Milan-based consulting firm Pambianco has estimated classic, straightforward settings of large emeralds, non. While the Madrid train bombing hit sales in that the Russian luxury goods market already is worth more rubies and blue sapphires with diamonds. city, Trapani said he hasn’t seen an immediate spillover than $1 billion — and expanding fast. Trapani said that these top-tier, one-of-a- effect in other European countries. “This is part of a broader, more comprehensive proj- kind items represent a relatively small “Perhaps people are getting more used to living in ect to extend our product range and compete in a mar- slice of the company’s revenue, but they this type of environment,” he said. ket that is much more competitive than that of the play an important role in defining 1990s,” Bulgari chief executive officer Francesco Bulgari’s image. He also said that the Trapani said in an interview. market for these multimillion dollar Astrale is a logical follow-up to pieces is growing rapidly — the the technicolor offerings of superrich are relatively immune to Vuitton Plans 3rd NYC Unit past collections like Allegra, macroeconomic swings. By David Moin said Trapani, adding, “We As for the next products on needed more of a presence Bulgari’s design table, Trapani said NEW YORK — A giant flagship apparently doesn’t in white gold, diamonds it is too early for details. But he said suffice. and pavé.” that the company is focusing on the Louis Vuitton, the French leather goods, shoes, jew- While white gold and dia- upcoming Basel Watch Fair, where elry and ready-to-wear brand, plans to supplement its monds predominate, there are Bulgari will roll out a varied selection of 11-story flagship at 1 East 57th Street with a smaller a few exceptions. Several pieces timepieces, ranging from sporty models shop at 845 Madison Avenue, WWD has learned. also are available in yellow gold. A to dressier jeweled ones. The site was formerly occupied by Gianfranco choker necklace and matching bracelet New products could help drive Ferré, who moved his store to 870 Madison Avenue, feature stingray leather straps. In a Bulgari’s sales, which have slowed as reported. Sources said Vuitton on Madison departure from the circular pattern, sever- over the past few years. As the top line Avenue, on the northeast corner of 70th Street, will al items connect rectangles of pavé dia- suffered in challenging market condi- have about 5,000 square feet of space. In Manhattan, monds and gold spheres in a sort of decon- tions, the company focused its efforts Vuitton also has a store at 116 Greene Street in SoHo. structed molecular-type formation. on cost-cutting and boosting efficiencies Reportedly, Vuitton plans to open the Madison Prices range from about $900 for a simple gold to increase profitability. Avenue shop next year. Executives couldn’t be piece to approximately $2 million for a one-of-a- On Monday, Bulgari issued its full-year reached for an official comment, but one employee kind ring featuring three rare diamonds in pink, blue 2003 net profit figures, which showed a jump of answering the phone at the corporate offices here said and yellow. 21 percent to $111.3 million, or 92 million euros, that Madison Avenue was on the planning schedule. Bulgari presented the jewelry as part of a fashion from $91.9 million, or 76 million euros, in 2002. Sales for Real estate sources don’t think this is overkill for show and dinner held at a huge, frescoed neoclassical the year, released in January, shed 1.9 percent to $918.3 Vuitton, considering the popularity of the brand and palace, which was owned by Catherine the Great, filled million, or 759.1 million euros. Bulgari said that sales the fact that Madison Avenue and the Upper East with gold leaf, chandeliers, columns and statues on the would have risen 5 percent stripping out the erosive Side attract a different audience from the Midtown outskirts of St. Petersburg — where it did, in fact, snow. effects of currency fluctuations. 57th Street vicinity. The show featured gowns and other eveningwear from Sales of jewelry, Bulgari’s single-biggest product cat- “To me, Madison is dramatically different from names such as Givenchy, Oscar de la Renta and Hedi egory, rose 13 percent at constant currency rates. Fifth Avenue,” said Faith Consolo, vice chairman of Slimane. Just for the occasion, Bulgari and Valentino “We are very satisfied with our results from last year,” Garrick-Aug Worldwide, real estate brokers. teamed up to craft a diamond pavé halter that cascades Trapani said, forecasting “high single-digit sales growth” “Madison Avenue attracts well-heeled New Yorkers over an ankle-length black chiffon gown. for 2004. He said that sales trends in the first months of more than tourists. Once you go north of Barneys [on Madison and 61st Street] you lose the tourists.” Consolo added that Vuitton was able to land the commercial goods like fabric logo handbags. Madison Avenue site by agreeing to a multimillion Morgan Stanley analyst Claire Kent said in a report dollar advance rent payment. Gucci Group Put Starts Today that she expects fourth-quarter Gucci brand sales growth In addition, it’s not unusual for Vuitton to put two or Continued from page 3 of 8.9 percent, or 14.7 percent stripping out the effects of three major stores in cities around the world. In Berlin, Lehman Brothers analyst Rebecca Ivaldi also ex- currency fluctuations. She said that losses at Yves Saint for example, there are three Vuitton stores. The compa- pects Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta “to be de- Laurent should continue to widen but that narrower loss- ny plans to open additional global stores this year in livering sequential retail sales growth, confirming the es at Gucci’s other brands should help compensate. Shanghai, Paris, Tokyo, Johannesburg, and Osaka, positive momentum registered in the third quarter.” With the exception of Gucci and YSL, Gucci does not Japan, with several smaller stores also slated for 2004. For the Gucci brand, “drivers should be leather break down financial information for the other brands Louis Vuitton is a division of LVMH Moët goods, shoes and jewelry, while watches, in line with in its portfolio, such as Stella McCartney, Alexander Hennessy Louis Vuitton. sector trends, should remain weak,” noted Merrill Lynch McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Boucheron and Sergio Rossi. “It wouldn’t be the first time that a luxury brand analyst Antoine Colonna. HSBC analysts Antoine Belge and Nathalie recognizes that Fifth Avenue and the mid-northern Goldman Sachs analyst Jacques-Franck Dossin took Schneider said in their report that they expect YSL section of Madison Avenue are really catering to two a more optimistic view in his preview note, anticipating sales growth of 35 percent for the fourth quarter, or 40 different customers,” noted Gene Spiegelman, senior a strong recovery in Gucci watch sales, up 14 percent, percent at constant currency terms. Unlike Kent, they director, retail services, Cushman & Wakefield. plus increases of 12 percent and 8 percent for leather said YSL’s losses should actually narrow. “Cartier has stores on Madison and Fifth Avenues. goods and shoes, respectively. “Nevertheless, we cannot rule out that management Cole Haan is in Rockefeller Center on Fifth Avenue “In [the fourth quarter], we expect further accelera- spared no expense to make Tom Ford’s last fashion and on Madison at 60th Street. It’s a good trend if the tion of the Gucci brand, following a strong rebound in show for the brand an unforgettable event,” they wrote. retailers make money. Fifth Avenue has a very, very [the third quarter], driven by the success of the new col- Lehman’s Ivaldi said she expects losses at the “other broad exposure with a lot of branding and sales lections,” he wrote. brands” to narrow, to about 55 million euros for the full value, and not necessarily everyone who walks on Still, those numbers won’t be enough to compensate year, versus 81 million euros a year ago. Fifth Avenue walks on Madison Avenue.” for the first half of the year, when net profits at Gucci Dossin at Goldman Sachs said he expects continued Spiegelman said asking rents for prime Fifth Group plunged more than 69 percent. Analysts attrib- strength at Bottega Veneta and a “good” performance at Avenue locations around Rockefeller Center exceed uted the weak first-half numbers to a combination of Sergio Rossi, but believes the other brands, particularly $1,000 a foot and prime Madison Avenue locations tough macroeconomic conditions and a merchandise Boucheron and Balenciaga, “will continue to struggle.” between 57th to 72nd Street are generally just shy of mix at Gucci that featured pricier items and not enough — With contributions from Miles Socha, Paris $700 a foot. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004

Pegah A Little Luxe Anvarian The L.A. shows continued apace as Hollywood’s A-list got a glimpse of Jenni Kayne’s simple yet rich looks, while Michelle Mason evoked an Edwardian charm at Mason.

Jenni Kayne: In a world that moves at warp speed, it should come as no surprise that 21-year-old Jenni Kayne can go from the promising freshman collection she showed only a year ago to a third season filled with beautiful clothes. And los ▲ the presentation certainly Jenni Kayne attracted a crowd, as the front row angeles looked like a “Tonight Show”

▲ Mason lineup: Owen Wilson, Jared Leto, Lara Flynn Boyle, Dustin Hoffman and Farrah Fawcett. But once the lights dimmed, all eyes focused on Kayne’s most evolved collection so far, which featured more grown-up, luxe looks. There were metallic-threaded, pinstriped tailored suits and tweed capes, shirred satin cocktail dresses, shiny silver-sequined skirts in varying lengths and a shimmery floor-length, synthetic astrakhan coat. It’s clear that Kayne was moving beyond her girlish whims. There were a few missteps, however, such as the unfortunate flocked- and-gilded floral prints and some navy-inspired sportswear that came from out of left field. But experience — and a good edit — can do wonders for a fledgling talent, and Kayne has time and a booming business on her side. Rami Kashou Mason: Nice and easy was the modus operandi at Mason, where romantic prints, relaxed sweaters and tailored pants made a girl wish for the bundle-up days of fall. Designer Michelle Mason’s secondary line was a breezy departure from the artsy elements found in her fall signature line, which she showed Saturday night. Instead, these clothes celebrated the art of simple girlish dressing. The Edwardian silhouettes she favors were all in place, but were used sparingly, as in a dotted corduroy blazer or a fantastic group of very high turtleneck blouses printed with blue cornflowers. The collection is certainly destined for wide exposure with its whispery cashmere tops, skinny wool pants and chunky cardigans great for blustery beach getaways.

Pegah Anvarian: For her second runway show, Pegah Anvarian tested new territory, attempting to go beyond her trademark cashmere jersey looks. But it didn’t quite work. Her structured silhouettes in black leather, wool and satin appeared stiff and out of place in a collection that overall tried to emphasize slinky sexuality and sensual lines. The pencil skirt, tube minidress and biker-styled jackets, for example, seemed a stale imitation of the looks in the “Addicted to Love” video with its stark, in-your-face sexuality. But where her new direction did work was with filmy, silk jersey dresses that featured sparkling, jeweled necklines — pieces that emphasized her draping talents. This small but glamorous sampling left one wishing she had focused more of frequent production difficulties. Striving to become her energy in this direction. Anvarian also offered some more commercial, however, Kashou returned after a signature looks, such as the plunging neckline dresses, halters season’s absence with constructed jackets, wool gauchos and drop-waisted tops paired with extra-long leggings that were and ruffled dresses — all to uneven effect. A fuzzy black ruched at the ankles like legwarmers. fabric cut into a flounced jacket looked cheap, and the sharp shift from several edgy sparkling copper smocks to Rami Kashou: There’s no doubt that Rami Kashou adores pretty lime rayon cocktail dresses was jarring. Kashou’s strength women. He has wrapped and draped his earthy goddesses in definitely lies in his manipulation of jersey — whether it’s wool, intricately braided and ruched jersey, and has sealed a fan base silk or rayon — as evidenced by the gorgeous separates and red despite the fact that his clothes are hard to come by because of carpet-ready gowns he sent out.

PERCHANCE TO DREAM: With a new leader at the Los Angeles chapter of GenArt, (publicist and show Cosa Natalie Society producer Lee Trimble), the show’s three-part theatrical installment late Monday night at a Culver City Nostra for sound studio was a welcome diversion from the runway parade at Smashbox Studios. Guests gathered Rational around clever, dreamlike environments, created by the designers with the help of Cirque du Soleil set Dress artist Keith Greco. And what fun they were. On an all-white set of stairs and platforms, Society for Rational Dress’ Corinne Grassini sent out her delicate charmeuse smocks paired with frayed rust-col- ored linen minis. Natalie designers Coryn Madley and Naama Givoni dove into a Thirties-tinged underwater fantasy, complete with tiny bubbles floating down from above. There were seafoam knit jumpsuits on their model mermaids; sweaters with short-sleeved batwings in brown and gold yarn insets hinting at a sea- horse’s pattern, and cardigans dotted with sequin-sprinkled crochet rounds. The dream turned nightmarish for the program’s third, and last, show, when Cosa Nostra — a favorite among Maxfield customers — sent out distressed leather jackets trimmed in recycled furs and second-skin motorcycle pants for the post-apocalyptic Goth rock pack. If the snow-covered nuclear win- ter stage, or the model’s chalky faces and heads wrapped in black gauze weren’t freakish enough, the crutches and splints made of metal pipes offered an unsettling image. But it’s all punk rock fun for co- designers Jeff Sebelia and Michel Berandi, who spent years creating the looks of music videos. PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DONATO SARDELLA GIANNONI AND DONATO GIOVANNI TYLER BOYE, PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 7

Jennifer Love Fray Peter Hewitt and Nygård Richard Tyler Hilfiger L.A. Stores Close By Kristin Young

LOS ANGELES — Tommy Hilfiger threw in the retail towel here this week. All three Hilfiger stores in the greater Los Angeles area closed as of Wednesday, only two years after they opened to replace the corpo- ration’s much-publicized shutter of a 20,000-square-foot Rodeo Drive address in February 2001. There are no other California locations. Locations at the Beverly Center in West Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland in Hollywood, and Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica, all opened in November 2001, have been vacated, a New York-based spokesman confirmed. The representative would not comment on fur- ther closures. Opening the smaller locations in three distinct neighborhoods was once a plan to target a younger, hipper customer — a crowd the Beverly Hills location never managed to attract. At 8,400 square feet, Hilfiger’s two-level store at Hollywood & Highland was its largest unit in the city and stocked not only women’s and men’s sportswear, jeans and bath products, but vintage pieces culled by Hilfiger buyers. As reported, Tommy Hilfiger started the closures of 37 specialty stores in the U.S. beginning in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2003. The last unit, a location in Florida, is scheduled to close this month. A SoHo unit in Manhattan and a location in the Westchester Mall in PHOTOS BY KRISTINA BOWMAN AND GEORGE HENSON PHOTOS BY White Plains, N.Y., will remain open. Although Hilfiger stores have closed in several cities, industry ob- servers said the units had a particularly rough time in this city defined by its jeans-and-flip-flop style. Big Start for New Dallas Venue “It’s really much more conducive to a New York clientele,” said Barbara Fields, owner and president of Barbara Fields Buying Office.

DALLAS — The kickoff market of FashionCenterDallas Renee Dumarr’s pink and blue tweed suits with raised traffic, spirits and most importantly, bookings, looped chenille trim, BCBG’s pink, olive and brown according to reps. chiffon dress and Laundry’s pink and blue pin- “This is fantastic,” said Robert Bronstein, president striped jackets and skirts with colorful paisley shirts. of BCBG. “The first day of the show we made almost “We bought them as suits, which out of nowhere StyleMax: Color Is King last year’s show. I’m hearing from my colleagues that are taking off,” Skoda pointed out. there is a buzz, and they’re doing a lot of business.” Connie Sigel, owner of the Elements boutique By Beth Wilson “We felt it went great, and we really saw that when here, was careful to invest in special pieces, such as we looked at attendance,” said Cindy Morris, chief Ettie’s crocheted shawls, Ilo and Fred’s velvet jack- CHICAGO — Looking to add newness and a punch of color to operating officer of the Dallas Market Center, noting ets with ribbon bows and Fray’s pink mohair sweater their specialty stores, many Midwestern retailers found what that registration was up 70 percent over last year. “So with satin trim. they wanted at Chicago’s StyleMax fashion market, which many people commented about the natural light and “It’s a jeans business — everyone wants some- ran March 13-16 at the Merchandise Mart. the fact that you could look across the atrium and thing cute to wear with a pair of jeans,” she “We’ve all gotten tired of the same old, same old,” said Mary have a feeling for the energy and floors.” observed. Forsberg, owner of C.C. Dithers in Galena, Ill. “I’m seeing more Retailers from 18 countries checked out the new In contrast, ensembles appealed to Heather freshness and color. This market is better than last year.” venue, and buyers from stores that had not previous- Domingue, contemporary and young designer buyer Elizabeth Woodbury, owner of Elizabeth Fashions in Dyer and ly shopped here swelled 150 percent, Morris pointed for Tootsies, a Houston-based specialty chain of four Chesterton, Ind., also noticed a positive shift in the fall fashions. out. An unusual number of buyers were still in the stores. “I like the whole ladylike trend —tweed jack- “I can see a change and I like it,” she said. “It’s time for a building perusing product on Monday, the last day of ets and suitings,” Domingue said. “I’m buying lots of change. The style of dresses and the skirts are getting shorter.” market, which is traditionally quieter. Some of the color — orange, chocolate, red and pink.” Overall, styles are more delicate, dainty and fitted, she said. hype also came from drawings for five Volkswagen With a budget up 10 percent, Domingue was writ- StyleMax features more than 3,000 lines on the Beetles that were given away. ing an order for Laundry’s paprika yarn-dyed poncho Merchandise Mart’s eighth floor. The new mart rings the sun-lit atrium atop the 15- and a chocolate tweed coat with leather trim over an Cindi Rucinski, buyer for Elizabeth Fashions, said, “I’m see- story World Trade Center within the Dallas Market ecru chiffon halter with a chocolate leather skirt. ing things that are different and versatile. The fabrics are great. Center. “The feeling is great, and the There are textures mixed with different textures. It looks fresh.” energy is great,” said Marilyn Wohl- More than 1,000 people In particular, Rucinski liked the dalmatian coat, a cream stadter, who owns East 61st, a local shoe attended the opening ceremony cashmere design with black spots from Linda Richards, and accessory shop. “The lighting makes print wrap dresses with ruffles from Citrine and vibrant, for FashionCenterDallas. a big difference.” chunky jewelry from Rodrigo Otazu. Crowds flocked to the fashion shows, Striking shades of olive, orange, pink and purple also especially the Friday evening trend show caught her eye. Forsberg also appreciated the vibrant hues, featuring Richard Tyler. At its finale, especially the 31 colors offered by Terryl Cashmere. Jennifer Love Hewitt couldn’t resist camp- “You’re usually not offered so many choices,” she said. ing up her runway stroll with a curtsy at the “That’s quite a large color palette.” end of the runway. “I have always wanted In addition to ordering several styles of cashmere to do that,” she said to Tyler before pre- sweaters, such as turtlenecks and a wrap V-neck, Forsberg senting him with a Lifetime Achievement bought some “really fun accessories,” including long cash- award on behalf of the DMC, saying, “You mere gloves, reversible hats and long scarves to knot. make us look sophisticated and sexy, mod- “I was looking for affordable cashmere,” she said. “That ern and timeless.” was a real find for me.” “I love it here,” Tyler said earlier at his Forsberg also regularly stocks embellished French poster booth in the Scene show, where he intro- art novelty tops from Skinny Minnie. duced Eve, a bridge eveningwear line, and “The designer is constantly changing designs,” she said. “I showed his contemporary collection, Tyler reorder from them weekly. Most people who buy one come in by Richard Tyler. “The organization is great, and busi- Brad Hughes & Associates’ showroom of bridge later and buy three more. That line pays my rent.” ness is good. We’ve had a lot of stores in from places like and contemporary collections such as David Meister Forsberg also planned to check out the fall sweater styles Beaumont and Austin [Texas], which is great because and Liliu hopped nonstop. The room was one of the from Avalin. One Avalin sweater, an $18 wholesale washable we never have an opportunity to sell them.” busiest in the building, not in the least because it cotton style that comes in several colors, is popular among Tyler planned to do a little shopping of his own for had a bistro area with three tables, leather chairs customers and she reorders it every week or so. garden pieces on lower floors of the WTC that show- and a banquette where buyers could relax. Meanwhile, several Canadian companies came to Chicago case gifts and home furnishings. “There’s some great Michael Singer, Hughes’ business partner, StyleMax looking to break into or expand their presence in stuff down there,” he said. remarked that at first they were loathe to give up the U.S. market. Tyler wasn’t the only shopper who felt the urge to selling space, but the cafe proved so popular that it Annette Reichel, co-owner of Neptune Leatherworks splurge. Spring business has been so much stronger encouraged buyers to stay longer — and spend more. based in Newfoundland, said StyleMax helped generate than last year, when the nation had just gone into the Andrea Jovine, one of 180 designers who came for interest in its leather gloves, especially its Pisces gauntlet, Iraq war, that many buyers said their budgets were the FCD launch, introducing her bridge collection to wholesaling for $79, and matinee gloves, wholesaling for $75. up between 10 and 40 percent. specialty stores after a year of selling to Saks Fifth The gloves, which are hand-stitched, are made of deer- It certainly helped that fall fashions were ladylike Avenue and Dillard’s. The company hopes to double skin with some designs incorporating fish-skin detailing, and colorful, sporting a palette of pink, plum, sales this year to $20 million. coming in shades of black, brown, cognac and pecan. magenta, blue, green and chocolate. Ponchos were Jovine’s collection is produced by International Sallie Szanik, owner of the British Columbia-based popular, along with pleated miniskirts, soft chiffon Women’s Apparel, a division of Hartmarx Co. IWA pres- Uncommon Threads, said she traveled to the market to find tops and dresses, tailored tweedy jackets over jeans ident and chief executive Tom Hall noted that he had a rep to carry her novelty fleece line. or flirty skirts, novelty coats and fur sweaters. seen many changes at the Dallas market over 30 years. “I received some great feedback regarding pricing and where “I’m ecstatic over all the color, since that’s what’s “This is a chance to rejuvenate the whole process,” my product would fit,” she said. “Not only did I contact several driving the business now,” enthused Steve Skoda, Hall said of FCD. “The way it’s organized by category reps who are interested in carrying my line, but I learned what merchandise manager for Julian Gold, a four-unit is more convenient for buyers. I’m hoping that Dallas I needed to do to increase the appeal of my product.” specialty chain based in San Antonio. Skoda praised will become a bigger draw from more states.” 8 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 Shiseido Raises Forecast Dan River Files Chapter 11 TOKYO — Shiseido Co., Ltd re- Austria, Switzerland, the vised its net profits projection Netherlands, Italy and Thailand. By Scott Malone Lanier wrote, “Chapter 11 million goodwill write-off and upward by 8.7 percent for fiscal Annual sales were placed at means reorganization, not liqui- $20.8 million in interest expens- 2004, partly as a result of a re- $400 million. NEW YORK — Citing the need to dation.” The company said it es. A year earlier, the company duction in the amount it pays lighten a crushing debt load, Dan had secured $145 million of had taken a $17.5 million loss. into its employee pension fund. River Inc. filed for Chapter 11 debtor-in-possession financing Sales for the period were The extraordinary income BEAUTY BEAT bankruptcy Wednesday in to allow it to continue to operate $262.2 million, off 20.3 percent, deriving from the pension fund Georgia’s Northern District court. while it restructures its debts. with apparel-fabrics sales com- changes will be partially offset CD&R bought Jafra, which But company officials em- Most of the major mills in the ing in at $79.7 million, down 20.4 by expenses entailed in a group was founded in 1956, from The phasized that they believed U.S. have been through bank- percent. The bulk of the compa- restructuring. As a result, pro- Gillette Co. in 1998. Although their fairly simple debt struc- ruptcy during the past three ny’s apparel-fabrics sales are jected net income will be $238.1 Jafra was put on the block in ture — $157 million worth of years, with Burlington Industries, for men’s wear and uniforms. million, or 25 billion yen, which 2002, CD&R then apparently bonds with an effective rate of Cone Mills, Malden Mills, Lanier noted that the compa- is $19.1 million, or 2 billion yen, changed its mind and complet- 14 percent — would allow for a Guilford Mills and Galey & Lord ny has taken a variety of steps in higher than the previous fore- ed a $290 million recapitaliza- brief period of court protection. all having filed for protection, but recent years to cut its costs. In cast. For fiscal 2003, the cosmet- tion of the brand in May 2003. In They said in a statement they later emerged. A notable U.S. tex- November, the company said it ics company earned consolidat- this five-year period, company hoped the company would tile company that last year filed was closing two plants, which ed net income of $233.3 million, profits increased 400 percent, emerge from proceedings by the for bankruptcy and quickly liqui- reduced its head count by 243 or 24.5 billion yen. Dollar figures CD&R said. end of the year. dated was Pillowtex. workers, to about 4,800. were converted at current ex- The 100-year-old Vorwerk “The strength of our opera- The Danville, Va.-based com- According to court papers, the change rate. Group is a global family enter- tions and our ability to generate pany’s petition showed $371.8 company’s leading creditors are As a result of the pension prise. Its core business is the di- positive cash flow distinguish million in debts and $441.8 mil- HSBC Bank USA, with a $167.3 fund change, Shiseido expects rect sales of high-quality house- Dan River from other compa- lion in assets. million claim, and SunTrust to record extraordinary income hold appliances, as well as in- nies in our industry that have For the nine months ended Bank, with a $3.3 million claim. of approximately $254.3 million, dustrial and financial services gone through this process and Sept. 27 — the most recent peri- No other creditor held a claim of or 26.7 billion yen, on a consoli- and carpets. In 2003, group sales failed,” chairman and chief ex- od for which the company has $1 million or higher. dated basis and $91.5 million, or reached $2 billion, 37.5 percent ecutive officer Joseph Lanier filed financial results — Dan The company also petitioned for 9.6 billion yen, on a non-consoli- of which was generated by its di- said in a statement. River recorded a $120.2 million approval to name Woolard Harris dated basis for fiscal 2004. rect sales activities. In a letter to employees, net loss, which included a $91.7 as chief restructuring officer. Noting that cosmetics, fra- grances and skin care products Shiseido are the largest and fastest-grow- products. ing direct sales segment world- wide, Vorwerk said the Jafra ac- quisition will boost group sales Catherine Sadler Steps Down at Ann Taylor to $2.5 billion. “The company’s corporate By Evan Clark Catherine Making promises in marketing culture and its advisory-orient- Sadler that the product can’t back up is a ed sales approach using trained NEW YORK — After helping recipe for failure, she said. consultants to market Jafra’s along Coach and then Ann Sadler worked at Coach from high-quality, brand-name prod- Taylor, Catherine Sadler is strik- 1990 to 1997, a time of significant ucts all fit perfectly into ing out on her own. growth, when sales grew from Vorwerk’s corporate strategy,” Sadler, who stepped down as $100 million to $600 million. The Achim Schwanitz, managing chief marketing officer of Ann American legacy campaign, partner of Vorwerk, said. He Taylor Stores Corp. on which featured relatives of fa- added that Jafra’s management Wednesday, turned a page in her mous Americans, such as George team, lead by Jafra chairman career and launched the Washington, with Coach prod- While Shiseido boosted its and chief executive officer Ron Catherine Sadler Group, a brand ucts, was just one of the cam- earnings forecast, it revised its Clark “will continue to lead the consultancy. So far, the budding paigns on which she worked. sales outlook downward to $5.95 company as a separate entity business counts furniture design When Sadler joined Ann billion, or 625 billion yen, which within the Vorwerk Group.” company Tucker Robbins and Taylor in 1997, she recalled, is $66.7 million, or 7 billion yen, Jafra, which started as a fam- jewelry design firm Angela “Marketing consisted of the sign lower than the previous esti- ily company, was created by Jan Cummings/QVC as its clients. shop that was producing in- mate. These lower sales, com- and Frank Day, out of their Sadler is hoping, though, that store signs.” pounded with prior invest- home in Malibu, Calif., with a her branding experience will Ann Taylor, she noted, ments, are expected to produce mission of providing career op- beget other fashionable clients. emotional connection between stands for femininity and so- ordinary income of $333.3 mil- portunities for women while She logged seven years at Coach the brand and the customer” phistication. Sadler’s market- lion, or 35 billion yen, which is still being able to focus on their and another seven at Ann Taylor through what Sadler described as ing efforts focusing on those at- $57.1 million, or 6 billion yen, families. The company contin- after a stint at Sir Terence “relationship branding.” tributes helped the retailer de- below the previous forecast. ues to place an emphasis on Conran’s home furnishings “The nature of branding is velop its recognition as a Meanwhile, Shiseido and women’s empowerment today. chain, Habitat. optimistic,” she said, adding it brand, instead of a store, and Coca-Cola (Japan) have jointly — Melissa Drier “Even the rain doesn’t bother turns on past and future rela- contributed to an increase in developed a new brand, “aroma me today,” said an enthusiastic tionships between products and sales from $750 million to $1.6 works” under the common con- Sadler in an interview. customers. “Branding is like a billion during her tenure. cept of “aroma.” Multimedia Meeting CSG currently consists just of love affair. It’s about striking With CSG, Sadler is looking Based on the aroma theory of PARIS — Lancaster Group, the Sadler and an assistant, but it will those authentic chords that you forward to starting again from grapefruit scent, Shiseido will prestige division of Coty Inc., look to create for its clients “an can support,” she noted. scratch. launch a body care lotion, “Body was the official sponsor of the Stylish Mist,” while Coca-Cola International Forum of Cinema (Japan) introduces diet water, & Literature, which took place “Body Style Water,” on April 21. in Monaco, the company’s birth- Coca-Cola and Shiseido will place, from March 25-28. Among leverage their marketing and the attendees were authors Alfredo Versace Ordered to Jail sales capabilities for the promo- Mary Higgins Clark and William tion. Both products will be avail- Kennedy. NEW YORK — Alfredo Versace is designer, although the famed de- January 2003 modification of able in limited quantities in At the event, the Lancaster headed to jail for civil contempt. sign house has disputed any fa- the 1998 injunction that bars use Japan only. prize for best European film Federal District Court Judge milial connection. of the “Versace” name in any — Koji Hirano adapted from a novel went to Peter Leisure on Wednesday In the 1998 injunction, commercial context — had no Yann Moix for “Podium.” This handed down the order, stating Alfredo was barred from using effect on Alfredo’s conduct, the was the third consecutive year that Versace must surrender to the marks of the Milan-based de- court gave him a set amount of Vorwerk Gets Jafra Lancaster sponsored the event. the U.S. Marshall on April 12 for sign house, but was allowed to time to comply before it would BERLIN — Vorwerk and Co. KG, a “term of civil commitment,” in use his own name under certain order jail time to coerce compli- Wuppertal has acquired 100 which he will remain impris- conditions. In 2000, he was held ance with previous orders. percent of Jafra Cosmetics, the Dream Salon oned until he has complied with in contempt for violating the Judge Leisure wrote in his California-based direct mar- PARIS — L’ Oréal Professionnel the requirements of a contempt terms of the injunction because order that Alfredo has “chosen keter of beauty products. New and the Paris-based architec- order issued last August. of continuing activity in watches, the path of delay and obfusca- York private equity investment ture school L’Ecole Camondo As reported, the same court jeans, a new men’s wear busi- tion, steadfastly refusing to give firm Clayton, Dubilier & Rice jointly hosted a contest in in September 2002 granted ness venture and even “Versace” the court an accurate and com- Inc. had possessed 84 percent of which students were asked to Gianni Versace SpA’s request to branded cigarettes sold in plete picture of his finances the firm. Terms of the deal were design a hair salon of the fu- bar Alfredo from using the Russia and Macau. and business activities. His per- not disclosed. ture with an emphasis on its famed family name in connec- Over the intervening years, nicious attitude has left the More than 400,000 consult- selling space. tion to goods and services be- similar sanctions were issued by court with no recourse other ants sell the Jafra range of pre- Four groups of winners were cause of repeated violations of the court against Alfredo and in than to enter this order and se- mium skin care and body care recognized for their work: Two an existing preliminary injunc- August 2003, the judge found vere sanction.” products, fragrances and color teams won the “coherency tion. The two have tangled in him in contempt again. Since Bryan J. Holzberg, attorney for cosmetics in its main markets of prize”; one got the “innovation court since 1996 over alleged previous orders and monetary Alfredo, could not be reached for Mexico and the U.S., as well as prize,” and a fourth was award- trademark infringement. Alfredo sanctions — a $2,000-a-day fine comment. in Brazil, Argentina, Germany, ed the “anticipation prize.” claims to be a relative of the late running from Oct. 3, 2002 and a —Vicki M. Young WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 9 Denim Dish Making the Connection enim rules at The Jean Connection. Unusual and Dhard-to-find fashion denim lines are a specialty at the 10-year-old store in Dallas’ Preston Center, which carries nearly 30 brands for women, men and children in a wide range of prices and sizes. Sales are up 12 percent so far this year thanks to the store’s growing customer base, including a booming mail-order outreach to customers across the U.S., and an expansion that tripled the store’s size to 3,600 square feet, said owner Caren Watson. “We have room to offer more styles than ever, and I con- tinually search the markets for the newest and best denim jeans,” she said. “There are lots of factors to consider when someone buys jeans — it’s a very personal decision. So I

“There are lots of factors to consider Sales are up 12 percent this year at The Jean Connection in Dallas. when someone buys jeans — want to be able to help everyone who comes in the store ship jeans all over the U.S. We advertise but our best it’s a very leave with a style that makes them look and feel good.” marketing tool has been word-of-mouth. A man in New personal The store’s demographic ranges from 12-year-old Jersey calls every few months and orders at least 10 decision,” said girls to 70-year-old men, though most business is done pairs of AG jeans in the same size, style and rinse.” owner Caren with women ages 16 to 34 and men ages 20 to 40. An average sale at The Jean Connection is about Watson. Brands include Red Engine, Christopher Blue, $250 and includes two pairs of jeans and a top or pair of Sacred Blue, Farm Girl, AG, Modern Amusement, Jet shoes. Retail prices range from $54 to $198. Lag, Chip & Pepper, Diesel, Paper, Denim & Cloth, Watson scouts markets across the U.S. for the latest Seven for All Mankind, Citizens for Humanity, Dish, denim styles with a special eye for unique fit properties. Mavi, G-Star, Energie, Blue Cult and Miss Sixty. “We’re waiting for our first delivery of James jeans The store also carries fashion tops from edgier ven- from Los Angeles and I’ve already got a really long cus- dors such as 3 Monkeys, Junk Food, Splendid and tomer wait-list for them,” said Watson. “James jeans have Scrapbook Originals, plus shoes from Reef and Diesel. angled and pleated back pockets that flatter the rear end. “The first thing women say when they walk in the They’ll retail for $140 a pair and will sell quickly. Fit is door is ‘I’ve been told you can make me look good in a such an important issue when buying jeans. And that’s one pair of jeans,’” said Watson. “We’re honest with cus- of the reasons we carry so many jeans. There’s something tomers and have been known to spend hours working for everyone — and we’re continually adding more lines.”

JEAN CONNECTION PHOTOS BY GEORGE MAYO HENSON 2ND GEORGE MAYO JEAN CONNECTION PHOTOS BY with one customer to find the right style and fit…We — Rusty Williamson

ble for sewing, sanding and wet-processing each pair I.C. Isaacs Trims Loss of jeans will sign them. There is a heavy focus on hand work — single-nee- .C. Isaacs & Co., which produces Marithé & dle stitching means it takes twice as long to sew the IFrançois Girbaud jeans in North America, jeans, and some of the washes take 14 to 16 hours to trimmed its losses last year, according to a recent fil- complete. The denim itself will come from the U.S., ing with the Securities and Exchange Commission. Japan and Italy. Morrison said the intensive hand The company recorded a net loss of $1.7 million, or work and high-end fabric justifies the line’s high 15 cents a diluted share, for the year ended Dec. 31 price points. Wholesale prices start at $82 and retail compared with a loss of $5 million, or 68 cents a share, prices will range from $182 to $240. in 2002. Sales were up 0.6 percent to $66.2 million. “What we really try to do is put as much money into While the overall sales growth for the year was the product as we possibly can and give the consumer slight, the company noted that sales trends improved a reason to really reach out and embrace it,” he said. through the year, with fourth-quarter revenues com- Embracing Imperfection “You should have a $180 or $190 product that really ing in at $17.1 million, up 39 percent from $12.3 mil- inspires people.” lion a year earlier. In the first two quarters of the hen a shopper shells out $200 for a pair of dunga- The jeans will be produced in the U.S., in factories year, sales were down, while third-quarter sales had Wrees, she often is expecting to get something close around Los Angeles and in Kentucky, Morrison said. He been up less than 1 percent. to perfection. But Scott Morrison is betting that some added that he’s only found a small number of contrac- Net sales of women’s sportswear were off 6.3 per- shoppers are really looking for the imperfect. tors he trusts with the product, which limits his potential cent to $9 million for the year. The bulk of sales were Morrison — who in February left his post as vice output to about 20,000 pieces a month and would allow men’s products. president of sales and marketing at Paper, Denim & potential volume of $16 million to $20 million. The firm, now headquartered in New York, did Cloth — this week resurfaced with a new jeans line he’s Morrison said his strategy is to keep distribution not break out quarter-by-quarter profit figures. named Earnest Sewn. The California native said the limited to specialty stores, “Hopefully to be small and Isaacs maintains its administrative headquarters in line is inspired by the Japanese aesthetic concept of special enough that people will notice it.” Baltimore. wabi-sabi, which refers to the beauty of the imperfect. Morrison, who is serving as president and designer The company also noted in the SEC filing that its de- “Everyone’s trying to really make a perfect jean, so of the new venture, has also hired two former Paper cline in gross margins resulted “from sales to off-price to speak,” he said in a phone interview. “I wanted to try colleagues. They are Lori Jacobs, who will serve as vice retailers at reduced selling prices.” It said that during to take a bit of the opposite approach.” president of sales, and Eleanor Lembo, who will han- the first quarter it sold “to a mass retailer at gross prof- To build imperfection into the line, he’s rethought the dle public relations and some designing. it margins significantly below the margins on goods way the jeans are constructed, using single-needle sewing At Paper, Morrison was replaced by Chris Gilbert, son that are sold to department and specialty stores.” machines instead of the typical double-needle models. of Mudd Inc. president Dick Gilbert. Mudd owns Paper. Isaacs, which is majority owned by investment ve- “You’ll see crooked stitches, little broken stitches, that The initial run of the Earnest Sewn collection, hicles controlled by François Girbaud, last year hint at the fact that it wasn’t perfectly made,” he said. which includes 20 styles of jeans and one denim skirt, named Peter Rizzo, formerly of Bergdorf Goodman, He explained that he hoped that imperfection is due to ship by the end of June, Morrison said. He as chief executive officer. —S.M. would reinforce to the consumer that the jeans are a added that in future seasons he plans to integrate tops handmade, artisanal product. To hammer home that and other sportswear items into the collection. I.C. Isaacs produces point, the three workers who are primarily responsi- — Scott Malone Marithé & François Girbaud jeans.

tition,” he said. Goa A-Goin’ Instead, he has brought on Jacynthe Veillette, the or the past few years it has seemed that a new com- designer behind Jessie USA, to steer the company into Fpany was crowding into the jeans business every T-shirts and sportswear. Launching for fall is a collec- month, though some didn’t last that long. Now Los tion of cashmere sweaters. Heavily embellished in Angeles-based high-end contemporary line Goa is Swarovski crystals, beading and embroidery, the pulling out of the crowded field. sweaters will wholesale around $180. Veillette is also Owner Gerard Medina, who launched a denim col- designing a group of T-shirts with sublimations and lection last spring, is giving up on the fabric for now. embroidery that will wholesale for $68. “It’s a difficult animal and there’s too much compe- — Nola Sarkisian-Miller 10 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004

The Beat Grabbing Hold of the Teen Dollar

Teens are on the hunt for value-priced items, especially when shopping for clothes.

PacSun still seems to be a winner among teens, while Target has managed to capture teen shoppers by offering them products from designers like Mossimo and Cynthia Rowley.

PROFILE OF A TEEN SHOPPER

■ Number one factor that drives GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY By Julee Greenberg teens to stores: Size availability NEW YORK — Don’t even think about ■ asking teens to hand over their money Average amount of money teens WHERE TEENS SPEND ON APPAREL — that is, unless the product is fash- report spending per week: ionable, comfortable and priced right. About $50 That seems to be the formula for NEW YORK — Last month, Euro RSCG MVBMS conducted an online survey that included 486 success when it comes to targeting the ■ Number one source where teens teens between 12 and 19 years old. Here’s where these teens said they will spend their money. teen consumer. But it seems to be easi- get their money: Allowance from er said than done. With major retailers parents/guardians With $250 to spend on clothing at one store, With $100 to spend on clothing at one store, like Wal-Mart, Target and H&M taking most respondents would choose to spend it at: most respondents would choose to spend it at: a large portion of the teen dollar, small- ■ Number one item for which teens er firms have a lot of homework to do. are saving: College ■ PacSun: 13 percent ■ PacSun: 13 percent “What Target has managed to do is just amazing,” said Chris Griffin, presi- ■ American Eagle: 10 percent ■ Wal-Mart: 13 percent ■ Number one item purchased by or dent of the Los Angeles-based junior ■ Old Navy: 9 percent ■ Old Navy: 12 percent sportswear firm Chica. “In the Eighties, for a teen: Clothing you wouldn’t be caught dead in Target SOURCE: THE NPD GROUP/NPD FASHIONWORLD/ ■ Wal-Mart: 9 percent ■ J.C. Penney: 8 percent and now people are going there first for BUYING HABITS OF TEENS AND TWEENS REPORT hip fashion. Today, there’s nothing hip about overpaying for anything. When we talk about this thing these kids intend to emulate.” JLo by Jennifer Lopez brand. “It seems like they are just age group today, she doesn’t even know from the Eighties. With moguls as role models and “The Apprentice” becoming even more value-conscious. If you have great She’s growing up in a new playing field.” showing teens how to make it big in business, this gen- product at a great value, that’s a win-win. Innovative That field includes a new set of factors that influences eration of teens is a more serious bunch than recent gen- product will stimulate them to buy. This is a consumer teens. While past generations looked up to such career erations. They are saving for college, securing after- who has to be reenergized when they shop, and retailers role models as Neil Armstrong and Gloria Steinem, today’s school jobs and spending their money on iPods and MP3 have to provide that kind of shopping experience.” career role models include Russell Simmons and Jennifer players. They know that in order to get to the top, they Now, as there are more dynamic brands on the mar- Lopez, people whose fame started around music, but who have to gain experience when they are young. ket, Segal said, the industry seems to be in good shape. have crossed over into everything from fashion labels to “Teens know that it’s not enough to say they want to “We go through these waves in retail,” she said. restaurants to film. TV shows like “The Apprentice” and be a doctor when they grow up. They know that in order “Right now, there is a lot of excitement in the better “The O.C.” are among their favorites, shows that deal with to become a doctor, they have to volunteer as a candy department with new lines launching that carry high- more serious issues than shows that were big hits just a striper at the local hospital or work in a medical office,” end designer names. The urban brands have created few years ago, like “Friends” and “Will & Grace.” said Schuyler Brown, associate director of trendspotting that same sort of excitement on the junior floor.” “It’s not just teens who are looking to live a mogul and research for Euro RSCG MVBMS. Alden Halpern, president of junior denim firm Tyte, lifestyle as they get older,” said Cory Berger, a buzz mar- With that sophistication comes an appreciation for said he agrees that teens are value-conscious, but said keter with Euro RSCG MVBMS Partners, a marketing quality and price. the right product will always be the winner. solutions agency that works with such companies as “Teens today are displaying their interests in value “Teens are more motivated by fashion and peer pres- Intel Corp., Nestlé and Volvo. shopping as they set new fashion trends, such as wearing sure rather than the price of the item,” Halpern said. “As “Kids as young as eight idolize superstars like Jessica upper-end product with lower-end product,” said long as you are in with the value price range and the Simpson and Hilary Duff who are transitioning between Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst with The NPD style is right, they will buy it.” media outlets at an unprecedented level. They are cross- Group, a marketing information company. “Teens are still Halpern said the secret of his own company’s success ing the lines from music to film to TV projects, giving shopping at both specialty stores and department stores is that he strives to offer a high-end looking pair of jeans fans more and more access to them. With so many young for status items. They are, for example, wearing full-price at a retail price range of $24 to $39. stars attaching their names to restaurants, production shoes from Nordstrom with jeans from Target.” “Teens want to buy these status denim brands, but companies and product lines, kids today are getting a But for junior apparel makers, this revelation comes when it comes down to it, most of them do not want to very clear message that their idols aren’t so much about as no surprise. spend that kind of money on a pair of jeans,” he said. the ‘art’ as they are about accumulating power and “Teens are very value-conscious consumers, they “So, by offering them quality denim in those high-end wealth, and creating their own brands. And that’s some- always have been,” said Denise Segal, president of the washes, we are doing great business.” WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 11

Active Lifestyle Women’s Golf: Getting Crowded on the Course By Melanie Kletter cent rise in attendance and a 26 per- cent increase in network viewers since NEW YORK — There’s a fresh breeze swinging through 2001, said an LPGA spokeswoman. women’s golf. There was a 22 percent increase in Up-and-coming golfers like Michelle Wie, Grace Park the number of women golfers from and Aree Song are paving the way for a new generation 2000 to 2002, growing to 5.8 million, of players who may not even remember when golf was according to the National Golf primarily a man’s game and the Ladies Professional Golf Foundation, and women spent $4.3 Association tour couldn’t get air time. billion in 2002 on golf merchandise. The rising popularity of golf is also luring more appar- Much of the apparel coming out el firms into the category, including some brands more now is made with technical and per- John associated with high fashion than teeing off. Many golf formance fabrics and updated Galliano apparel makers that used to produce scaled-down ver- styling, including tank tops and shirts recently sions of their men’s wear for women are now addressing without collars, cropped shirts, capri launchedlaunched women’s needs with functional and fashionable clothes. pants and short skirts. While many a funky “There is more consideration now that women want golf courses have restrictions about golf line something not only for the golf course, but something what can be worn, the rules are loos- for they can also wear for traveling or out for cocktails,” said ening somewhat and there is more Christian Peri Cubillo, golf and snow sports buyer at Paragon flexibility for women. Dior. Sports in New York. “Women want versatility and items Peter Holleran, fashion market that will go beyond the golf course.” editor at Golf for Women magazine, ▲ Claudia Romana mixes fashion and function Among big-name fashion brands that now have which, like WWD, is owned by elements in her namesake golf line. women’s golf lines are Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Advance Publications, said, “The Escada, Burberry and Liz Claiborne, as well as sports- market is changing. Younger play- sales in this business,” said Cubillo. oriented labels such as Nike, Adidas and Lacoste, and ers are driving the business and ▲ Golf pants Swinging in Style is a new golf store the party is growing fast. silhouettes are becoming more for fall from in Aster, Fla., that only carries mer- Fashion rebel John Galliano recently launched an athletic, and companies such as Lilly Pulitzer. chandise for women. over-the-top collection of golf wear for Christian Dior Ralph Lauren and Burberry are “We saw a real need for our store, complete with micro-miniskirts, logo polo shirts in raising the bar on fashion.” since many pro shops have limited bright colors and funky prints. Izod is developing a golf David Hagler, director of apparel for Nike space and don’t carry a lot of merchan- collection scheduled to hit stores for spring 2005, and Golf, said: “The golf market has been going dise for women,” said co-owner Lilly Pulitzer is pumping up its golf offerings and recent- younger and more fashionable. In the last two Marilinda Scarsella. “While we cater to ly signed on as the apparel sponsor for the LPGA Golf years, there has been a real push to make more fit- country-club women, we are testing the Clinics for women, which kicked off in March. ted clothes that also have performance fabrics.” waters with more fashion-forward Dan Chirico, president of Bogner of America, which Nike launched its women’s golf apparel business brands, such as Hyp and American makes ski and golf apparel, said: “There is an interest in 1999 and is on track this year to have an increase Goddess.” now in looking good on the golf course, and we see a of 55 percent in its women’s apparel, which is cur- Many of the golf newcomers stress niche and an opportunity for stylish and technical golf rently outpacing the men’s division, he noted. they are bringing fashion into play with apparel that is not stodgy. And this While some department stores such as their new lines. business is not saturated with Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom carry a selection “Our golf line is designed to appeal fashion brands.” of golf apparel, most clothing is still sold in spe- to golfers and nongolfers,” said Suzanne As they climb the corporate cialty stores, including golf and sporting goods Karkus, president of Izod women’s wear, ladder, many women have real- chains, and pro shops on courses and at resorts. which is produced under license by ized the benefits of learning to Some golf stores said they are allocating Kellwood Co. “We will have regulation tee off as a way to enhance more space to women’s apparel. At New length and comfort stretch and all the their business relationships York Golf Center, one of Manhattan’s things golfers look for, as well as fashion and develop their careers, largest golf stores, women’s now elements.” and so more are picking up the accounts for nearly half of all the appar- Unlike some other brands, Izod is target- game, said golf apparel designer el offerings, up from about 20 percent ing department stores, with the plan that the Claudia Romana. a few years ago, said Charles Rhee, collection will be sold alongside the core Izod Golf clinics, schools and club days general manager of the store. women’s wear offerings. specifically for women have sprung up in “We see more upside Lilly Pulitzer introduced its golf line recent years, and the LPGA tour, which has potential in women’s Bogner now sells about two years ago and takes a lifestyle 33 tournaments this year, has had a 14 per- apparel,” he said. golf apparel. approach to the collection, said Sandi “More companies are Davidson, vice president and creative direc- embracing fashion, and much of women’s tor. As the sponsor of the LPGA clinics, Pulitzer is apparel is more slimmed down and fitted, wardrobing the clinic instructors and staff in looks while men’s apparel is often oversized.” from its Club line. Cobranded merchandise with the Among the store’s top-selling golf lines LPGA Golf Clinics for Women logo is available for pur- for women are Claudia Romana, Jamie chase at the clinic events. Sadock and Ralph Lauren, he said. This Romana began making golf apparel for herself and coming weekend, The Golf Club at Chelsea her friends in 1998, and she began selling the line to Piers in Manhattan is sponsoring a big golf stores in 2002. Romana’s designs include long-sleeved event, including its first fashion show that polo shirts, fitted silk sweaters, stretch corduroy pants New York Golf Center helped coordinate. and cashmere sweaters, many with prints and stripes. At Paragon, more lines are being brought in that She makes sure her apparel fits in with the require- cater to fashion customers. Brands sold at Paragon ments necessary for play at many clubs and courses.

AREE SONG BY SCOTT HALLERAN/GETTYAREE SONG BY IMAGES; FERREY/GETTY IMAGES JONATHAN MICHELLE WIE BY include Prada, Burberry and Lacoste, as well as “Golf apparel also has to be about function,” Romana Young golfers like Michelle Wie and Aree Song are Nike and Adidas. observed. “It’s not just making funky colors. There are a bringing some new energy to the sport. “Versatile and lifestyle items are what’s driving lot of regulations and you have to comply with those.”

CALLING ALL WOMEN’S RTW AND ACCESSORIES DESIGNERS SAKS FIFTH AVENUE INVITES ALL DESIGNERS FOCUSING ON QUALITY AND STYLE TO A NEW DESIGNER OPEN HOUSE

NEW YORK: APRIL 8

PLEASE CALL (212) 451-3911 TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT 12 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004

It’s not every TV commercial that can break through the clutter during the Academy Awards, where several of the spots on this list first aired. You need a TheWWDList unique message, captivating images, a trustworthy spokesperson and an appealing product. Then, there’s always sex, which still sells. Victoria’s Secret has that formula down cold with its stable of supermodels ready to strut their stuff at a moment’s notice. J.C. Penney also touched on the subject in its commercial where one lucky guy rides an elevator full of babes wearing new spring looks. Fowl also were a trend in the new round of spots: AFLAC’s clever TVAdvertising Recognition film noir spoofs feature a duck, while Nextel’s walkie-talkie campaign stars a flock of emus. Burger King focuses on office politics and Diet Pepsi serves up The 10 most effective new TV commercials launched between Feb. 16 and Feb. 29 Jason Biggs, a young actor who no doubt captures a youthful demographic. AFLAC Brand recall index: 267 The $10 billion AFLAC is a leading provider of insurance sold on a voluntary basis at work sites in the 1 U.S., as well as the largest foreign insurer in Japan. Its newest TV ad is a spoof on the film noir genre where a woman sees a private investigator — a duck, which is the company’s corporate symbol — out in the rain. TIDE Brand recall index: 231 The Tide StainBrush is a battery-powered brush with an oscillating head that helps Tide Liquid penetrate into stains. In the TV commercial, a wife explains how to pretreat stains with different Tide products.

2 IDERED. THE RECALL SCORE

BURGER KING Brand recall index: 215 The campaign, from Crispin Porter & Bogusky in Miami, involves office politics. One spot takes place 3 in a conference room at lunchtime. A clerk having taken “Have it your way” to the extreme, has ordered a double-meat, double-cheese, extra-ketchup, extra-onion Whopper. He dubs himself the “champion” and performs a strange victory dance. J.C. PENNEY Brand recall index: 211 J.C. Penney’s campaign, launched during the Academy Awards broadcast, features Dietrich Bader of 4 “The Drew Carey Show” in a predicament most men would envy — riding an elevator full of beautiful women wearing Penney’s fashions. By spot’s end, he’s so preoccupied, he forgets to get off on his floor.

VICTORIA’S SECRET Brand recall index: 201 The latest campaign for the It bra features Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks and other supermodels talking 5 about test-driving the new full-coverage, reinvented bras in stores since March 2. Victoria’s Secret has stuck with its strategy of featuring beautiful girls with knockout bodies in skimpy lingerie, which seems to be working. NEXTEL Brand recall index: 197 To advertise its Coast-to-Coast Walkie Talkies, which Nextel says is the fastest way to connect with over 13 million walkie-talkie users nationwide on the network, the company produced a commercial

6 THESE SCORES ARE THEN INDEXED AGAINST THE MEAN SCORE FOR ALL ADS DURING TIME PERIOD. OF VIEWING TV. where emus are on the loose in New York City and a walkie-talkie lures them. TWORKS TO HELP MARKETERS MAXIMIZE THE VALUE AND IMPACT OF THEIR TV BUYS. ONLY NEW CAMPAIGNS AIRING FROM FEB. 16 TO 29 WERE CONS NEW CAMPAIGNS OF THEIR TV BUYS. ONLY AND IMPACT TWORKS TO HELP MARKETERS MAXIMIZE THE VALUE

BURGER KING Brand recall index: 190 In another spot from the new campaign, burgers in a lunch delivery are described in detail. The boss 7 begins to reach for a Whopper, but a junior employee grabs the sandwich first. The boss asks, “Did you copy my burger?” Everybody watches as the young guy freezes before admitting, “Yes.”

PEPSI Brand recall index: 186 The Oscars introduced a new commercial for Diet Pepsi featuring “American Pie” and “Jersey Girl” 8 star Jason Biggs. The actor, who is seen watching the Academy Awards telecast at a party with some friends, shows award-winning acting ability when he tries to snag the last Diet Pepsi at the party.

YJ STINGER Brand recall index: 176 YJ Stinger is an energy drink. Stacker 2 calls itself “the world’s strongest fat burner.” The two have 9 together sponsored racing events such as NASCAR. YJ Stinger features WWE wrestlers such as Eddie Guerrero, who can be seen dancing to salsa music in a YJ Stinger spot.

MAYTAG Brand recall index: 164 Maytag’s Neptune Drying Center combines a tumble dryer with a drying cabinet that gently dries, 10 prevents shrinkage and reduces wrinkles and odors. Its new commercial shows a little girl who can’t find a place to dry her dress because there is clothing hanging all over the house. SOURCE: IAG, IAGR.NET, PROVIDES INSIGHT INTO THE PERFORMANCE OF ADS, AD CAMPAIGNS, IN-PROGRAM MARKETING, INDIVIDUAL SHOWS AND NE MARKETING, INDIVIDUAL SOURCE: IN-PROGRAM PROVIDES INSIGHT INTO THE PERFORMANCE OF ADS, AD CAMPAIGNS, IAG, IAGR.NET, IS THE PERCENTAGE OF TV VIEWERS WHO CAN RECALL WITHIN 24 HOURS THE BRAND OF AN AD THEY WERE EXPOSED TO DURING THE NORMAL COURSE OF TV VIEWERS WHO CAN RECALL WITHIN 24 HOURS THE BRAND IS THE PERCENTAGE WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 13 Burani Net Skyrockets NCTO Pushes Jobs Issue By Joanna Ramey agreements to ward off millions Thanks to Top Brands of dollars of suspected illegal ap- Jim WASHINGTON — The National parel and textile imports into the Chesnutt MILAN — Robust performances 2003 exports garnered 61.6 per- Council of Textile Organizations U.S., and requiring trading part- from its top brands sent Mariella cent of sales, compared with wants to hit politicians where it ners to follow labor and environ- Burani Fashion Group SpA’s 59.2 percent in 2002. hurts: in the ballot box. mental standards like those man- year-end sales and earnings up. In 2003, the company expand- Officials from the new lobby- dated in the U.S. Net profit swelled 92.2 per- ed its retailing network, which ing group forged by fabric and Rep. Robin Hayes (R., N.C.), cent in 2003 to 21.7 million euros, at the end of December includ- yarn makers launched their or- speaking at the news confer- or $26.2 million, from 11.3 mil- ed 156 boutiques. Some of the ganization Tuesday on Capitol ence, is among a cadre of rank- lion euros, or $13.6 million, in openings include a Mariella Hill. With a contentious election and-file GOP House members 2002 on sales that jumped 31 per- Burani boutique in Warsaw, a year in full throttle and the loss hearing from manufacturers cent to 358.8 million euros, or Francesco Biasia store opened of U.S. manufacturing jobs a key whose loyalties to the President $434.1 million, from 273.9 million in Via Montenapoleone in campaign issue, the NCTO is an- on trade are being tested. euros, or $331.4 million. Dollar Milan, a Braccialini boutique in gling for Congressional and “Everything is on the table,” figures have been converted at Hong Kong, and Baldinini bou- presidential politicians to heed said Hayes, whose district includ- current exchange rates. tiques in Milan, Moscow and their calls for action. ed Pillowtex, the textile mill that In a statement, the company Dubrovnik, Croatia. “The job anxiety is real. It will shuttered last year, displacing attributed the sales growth to a Last year, the group signed a bring more people to the polls 5,000 workers, and whose family good performance of the license with watchmaker Sector than we’ve seen in decades,” said were original founders of the mill. Mariella Burani, Braccialini for production and distribution NCTO member Stephen G. The South is generally con- Dobbins Jr., president and chief sidered a GOP stronghold for The company attributed the sales growth executive officer of Maiden, N.C.- President Bush in his reelection He also noted trade-expanding based Carolina Mills. bid. But mill executives are policies have been largely consis- to a good performance of the Mariella Dobbins is also president of clashing with Bush’s free-trade tent through modern-day Repub- the American Yarn Spinners goals, despite his overtures that lican and Democratic administra- Burani, Braccialini and Baldinini brands, Association, which is being dis- have included reinstating quo- tions and bristled at any attempts at solved along with the American tas on three categories of “protectionist” labeling. as well as to “external” growth Textile Manufacturers Institute Chinese textiles. “We are not isolationists. We to form NCTO in a move to amass Jim Chesnutt, NCTO’s vice are in favor of fair trade,” said generated by last year’s acquisitions. more influence in Washington. chairman, who is also president Gant. “This industry has lost NCTO members and others in the and ceo of Washington, N.C.- 86,300 jobs in the last six months.” and Baldinini brands, con- of a Mariella Burani watch. The textile industry concentrated in based National Spinning Co., Bush administration officials trolled by the group, as well as new line bowed this week. the South have been educating said he’s telling workers “prom- have worked to court industry to “external” growth generated Management said it was fo- workers on politicians’ positions ises have not been kept by this support by undertaking various by last year’s acquisitions. In cusing this year on expanding on trade, while registering them administration.” However, foreign-market opening initia- 2003, Burani gained a 50 per- its retailing network via the ac- to vote in advance of the Nov. 2 Chesnutt stopped short of an en- tives, supporting tax breaks for cent stake of Renè Lezard Mode quisition of 100 percent of the elections. The goal is to persuade dorsement of Massachusetts distressed companies, promot- GmbH, which helped the group Austrian Don Gil GmbH, which the 412,100 U.S. textile workers Sen. John Kerry, the presump- ing exports and discussing un- expand its penetration in the counts 38 clothing stores in and the allied apparel sector tive Democratic presidential fair trade practices and curren- German market, while gaining a Austria. By the end of the 2004 with almost 300,000 workers to candidate, who’s advocating cy issues with China. 60 percent stake of accessories fiscal year, the group will have vote for candidates who only stronger labor and environmen- On Wednesday, Charles company Francesco Biasia. more than 200 units. favor their stance on trade. tal standards in trade pacts. Freeman III, a deputy assistant From 2002 to 2003, the com- In 2004, a Braccialini bou- The industry’s litmus test in- “It’s political peril for anyone, U.S. trade representative, de- pany’s gross operating margin tique opened in March in Rome cludes support for World Trade Democrat or Republican, who fended the administration’s grew 34.1 percent to 43.5 million and the group’s first multibrand Organization members to delay doesn’t understand” the textile record on forcing China to abide euros, or $52.6 million. And as of boutique, called Mariella the scheduled Jan. 1 elimination industry’s plight in fighting subsi- by its fair-trade commitments, Dec. 31, 2003, the firm reduced Burani Details, which includes of market-protecting textile and dized and otherwise unfair im- speaking to a House panel. its debt to 113.8 million euros, or all the group’s leather-goods apparel import quotas; forcing port competition, said Allen Gant, “China wants us to keep our $137.7 million, from 118 million brands, will open in Pescara, in China to stop depressing the president of Glen Raven Inc. of markets open,” said Freeman. euros, or $142.7 million, regis- central Italy, on Friday. value of its currency that keeps Glen Raven, N.C., and NCTO’s “That will depend in no small tered as of Sept. 30, 2003. The company expects double- its imports inexpensively priced; chairman, also declining to de- part [on] what they do in the Europe remains the group’s digit sales growth this year, based stricter enforcement of trade clare allegiance to any candidate. next few months.” main market, accounting last on growing retail sales trends as year for 88 percent of sales, well as preliminary sell-in results while the U.S. accounted for 3.9 for fall/winter 2004-’05. percent of sales. Meanwhile, — Luisa Zargani Coach Signs Rodeo Drive Lease By David Moin Coach, and Dembo & Associates, Recently, Coach has stood out representing the landlord. for its strong earnings and sales RCS’ Abboud Sale Said Done, NEW YORK — Coach has found Coach is expected to open the growth. It produces handbags, a Beverly Hills address to add to store in the fall of 2005. The BCBG business cases, luggage and travel its burgeoning retail network lease is set to expire that spring. accessories, wallets, outerwear, and collection of products, “This will be Coach’s first gloves, scarves and fine jewelry. It Marty Staff to Be Named CEO WWD has learned. store in Beverly Hills and there also offers watches, footwear, A long-term lease was signed is no better place for them than home and office furniture and NEW YORK — RCSMediaGroup is pany that bears his name. at 325 North Rodeo Drive for a Rodeo Drive,” said Stephan even limited-edition Vespas. expected to announce today that it Wichser is being sued for fraud two-level, 4,200-square-foot unit, Stephanou, executive vice presi- In addition to Beverly Hills, has completed its sale of Joseph by Joseph Abboud, creative di- currently occupied by BCBG and dent of Madison HGCD. Madison HGCD has recently Abboud to a unit of a Boston-based rector and chairman emeritus. near Tiffany, Gucci, Hermès and Beverly Hills will be Coach’s completed transactions for equity firm, and that Marty Staff Staff, the former president and Cole Haan. Coach operates about second street location in Coach stores in Manhattan at the will replace Robert J. Wichser as ceo of Hugo Boss USA and briefly 170 retail stores and 77 outlets in California. The other is at 190 Time Warner Center and in the president and chief executive offi- ceo of PH Brand Management, the U.S. The deal was signed Post Street in San Francisco. Flatiron District, as well as in cer of the Abboud business. Penthouse’s licensing joint ven- with Madison HGCD, a retail The 10 other California units Philadelphia, Westport, Conn., RCS, which was formerly ture, is expected to have a stake brokerage firm representing are in malls. and Sea Girt, N.J. known as Holding di Partec- in the Abboud business, which is ipazioni Industriali SpA, is selling estimated to have sales of more the Abboud business as part of its than $125 million. Staff is looking long exit strategy from the appar- to build on Abboud’s significant el business. In February, the com- existing presence in men’s wear, Chinatown Residents Lobby for 9/11 Funds pany said it had reached a defini- as well as explore its potential in tive agreement to sell the Joseph other categories. NEW YORK — A crowd of sever- sulted in many Chinatown gar- Speaker Sheldon Silver and Abboud Group — composed of JA In a statement, Staff said, “I al dozen residents of Chinatown ment factories going out of busi- Senate Majority Leader Joseph Apparel Corp., Riverside intend to focus on the particular and the Lower East Side gath- ness and many area residents Bruno to block a proposal by the Manufacturing Corp. and opportunity Joseph Abboud has ered outside a state office build- missing weeks of work. Lower Manhattan Development Nashawena Mills Corp. — to JA to successfully compete in men’s ing in Manhattan Wednesday to The demonstrators complained Corp. to use $1.2 billion in re- Holding Inc., which is an entity better sportswear. Our suit and complain that $1.2 billion in fed- that the intent of Congress in pro- maining funds to help finance formed by the equity firm J.W. sport coat business will contin- eral funds allocated to help viding the recovery funding was to the construction of moderate-in- Childs Associates. The price was ue to be our volume base and their neighborhoods recuperate help people living below 14th come units within a luxury-hous- $73 million, less debt. we will utilize our Riverside from the Sept. 11, 2001, destruc- Street whose lives and work were ing complex further downtown. The completion of the deal manufacturing facility to main- tion of the World Trade Center disrupted by the attacks. “Gov. Pataki did not respond and the expected announce- tain our competitive advantage is being improperly used. Currently, the residential grants — to our request to use the left- ment that Staff will replace in this category. We also intend In the aftermath of the ter- ranging from $750 to $6,000 — are over money to build low-income Wichser, has fueled speculation to pursue company owned and rorist attacks, parts of only available to those living housing in our community,” said that there could be a resolution licensed retail and wholesale Manhattan below Canal Street below Delancey Street. unemployed Chinatown resi- to a long-standing dispute be- brand extensions both in were closed to traffic for weeks They called on New York Gov. dent Ling Bin. tween the designer and the com- America and on a global basis. as a security measure. This re- George E. Pataki, Assembly — Scott Malone 14 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004

Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. B’way+7th Ave SUBLETS LADIES No Lot Too Big or Too Small. 1500, 2200, 3500, 8500-Tower Fl TECHNICAL DESIGNER Call CLOTHES-OUT: Hot Lofts-Low Prices, All Sizes (937) 898-2975 Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Leading ladies outerwear co. looking for highly organ- ized and detailed individual w/3-5 years exp. in techni- cal design. Must have great verbal and written communi- 3,000-30,000 SqFt cation skills. Exp w/ prepar- 7TH AVE/BWAY/SIDE STREETS ing tech. paks to overseas SHWRM/OFC/DSGN/SHIP/RETAIL factories + pre-production FASHION CORE BERNSTEIN R.E. fittings. Please e-mail all re- Commercial Dye House Allan Gallaway 212-594-1414 x251 sumes to: Offering Washing/Dyeing of Knitting 488 7th Ave Fabrics, Linens, Towels, Napkins etc. [email protected] at LOW PRICES! Call: (718) 937-2900 1 BR. SHOWROOMS LIVE / WORK From $1550-$1850, 400-600SF Wd. flrs, hi ceils, April Occup Planners 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6p No Fee Children’s wear mfg has oppty Showrooms & Lofts in Planning Dept. Looking for Sewing Equip. Available BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Sr. Mrch. Planner & Financial Samplemaker, 30 yrs in business, has Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Planner. Apparel a must. equipment to share. 2 minutes from ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Email resumes to: Manhattan. Call Mariana: 718-472-9063. [email protected] or fax 212-736-1753

Penthouse Sublease MERCHANDISER Showroom space; West 39th St. available OF DRESSES Career Coaching, Counseling, for immediate sublease. Furnished w/ Leading dress company with tremen- private bathroom & kitchen 212-575-8858 dous distribution seeks experienced Interview Techniques, merchandiser. Individual must have excellent sense of trends, color, style Resume Writing and must be well versed in all areas Expanding our services of line development. This is a unique opportunity for a team-oriented profes- In addition to Fashion Recruiting sional to advance the company and for Retail & Wholesale, we will themselves to the next level. work with you one-on-one to help Fax resume to: 212-827-0074 you market yourself. Prod’n. Coordinator - Head Rebecca Singer Associates Acctant Chief Financial Officer/COO to $200K. Current exp. in min. $50-100 mil Fast Paced Textile - Garment Importer fashion talent search vol import apparel co. req’d. Oversee com- seeks Prodduction. Coordinator fluent in [email protected] puterized systems for implementation of Chinese &English. Must have excellent operations, warehousing, production etc. Pro- communication & computer (Word/Excel) Phoone: 212-946-0012 jections, margins, etc. Fax 973-379-1275 Agcy skills!!! Minimum 10 years experience req’d. Extensive knowledge of credit Fax: 212-656-1966 transactions, shipping documents, and Admin Assistant accounting preferred. Send resume to: Major sptswr importer seeks a motivated Box#M 1039 person for fast paced production c/o Fairchild Publications CHINA-QUOTA FREE department. Must be computer literate, 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl All categories incl cotton jeans. High highly organized and detail oriented with New York, NY 10001 quality, large vol., FOB or LDP. Call strong communication skills. Garment Scott 212-719-2450/Victor 323-266-7711 experience a plus. Employee friendly with full company benefits. Room to grow! Please fax resume to: Production Assistants Patterns/Samples/Beading JM @ 212-944-2867 Private Label Mfr. seeks 2 individuals Duplicates Cut & Sew with import experience. Must be able Full Service - Good Quality Admin to multi task and work independently. Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Strong computer skills req’d. TWO po- Exec. Sales Assistant sitions avail. Bilingual Chinese a plus. Seeking extremely organized and Salary to 35K. Please E-mail resumes to: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, detail oriented Sales Assistant. Must [email protected] have previous experience with Wal- DESIGN APPLICATIONS DESIGNER Globe-Tex Apparel PRODUCTIONS Mart RL and Target POL systems. By Design LLC. Couture design house seeking evening All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Proficient with MS Word, Excel and SPECIALIST-NY wear designer with 4-5 years exp. Must Call Sherry 212-719-0622. strong oral and written communica- Sales Assistant Lectra, a leading technology provider have sketching and technical knowl- Production Coord $40-50K. Current exp. in tion skills. Team player. We have an immediate opening for a for the apparel industry, is seeking a edge about couture garment Junior or Kids bottoms req’d. Track and Fax resume to 212-594-0452 Sales Assistant in our NY showroom, Design Applications Specialist for its construction schedule import production from incep- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, must be highly energetic, well organ- NY office to provide training to customers Fax resume to 646-472-0982 tion to completion. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy PRODUCTIONS Admin Since 1967 ized, detail oriented and thrives in a on Lectra’s suite of design software W-I-N-S-T-O-N multifaceted, fast pace environment. such as U4la and PrimaVision. Two (2) Samples and patterns full servcie shop Showroom sales and assist Sales Exec- years of industry exp. utilizing U4la PRODUCTION MANAGER to the trade. Fine fast work. APPAREL STAFFING utives in all aspects of business plus and PrimaVision design software, good Highly organized & motivated individ- 212-869-2699. DESIGN*SALES*MERCH various administrative duties. Must be communication skills and public DESIGNER/ ual. Must have 3 yrs. exp. in women’s ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION computer literate. Salary commensu- speaking exp. and a good working woven collection w/technical knowl- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 rate with exp. Fax salary req. & knowledge of the design process along MERCHANDISER edge & overseas delivery tracking exp. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- resume to: HR Manager 201-854-4834 with exp. using Photoshop & Illustrator Nat’l/ brand missy sportswear co. seeks Ship’g & import a plus. Career growth sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 ASSISTANT TECHNICAL are required. Travel is required. exp’d person to design contemporary/ opportunity. Fax resume 212-354-2661 Please fax or email resume to: moderate missy, petite, related sepa- DESIGNER Lectra rates. Must have 5-7 yrs exp. and a KIDS OUTERWEAR Human Resourses Manager PRODUCTION / TRIM CAD DESIGNER strong background in woven bottoms, Seeking strong individual with 2-3 yrs. Fax: 800-746-3416 skirts, and jackets. Must have great in the industry. Must have experience Fast paced importer of women’s Email: [email protected] ASSISTANT sleepwear/intimate apparel seeks CAD color, print & pattern sense, and be a Prestigious leading designer company in measuring garments, fit evaluations team player. Position in Boston Area. and communicating detailed reports to Designer with a degree in fashion seeks individual to handle all trim Miami Public Warehouse design and at least 3 yrs of working Excellent benefits & salary. buying, tracking and cutting ticket re- Located near airport manufacturers. Should also be proficient DESIGN Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260 in Color Matters and Microsoft Office. experience. Must be well organized, quirements. Knowledge of piece goods Servicing the apparel Industry. detail oriented, technical as well as required. Computer skills a must. Recieves your products/storage/ and Please fax resume to: (212) 997-9188 Assistant Designer creative and proficient in Photoshop Denim driven Women’s Contemporary Great working environment. ship direct to retailers. and Adobe Illustrator. We offer a great E-mail resume to [email protected] Contact Joe/Paul (305) 691-9400 Assist Prod’n Coord Sportswear Company seeks indiv with working environment and a salary min 2-3 yrs exp w/ AA or BA / Fashion FASHION CAREERS Major sptswr importer seeks highly based on experience. In Design, Tech Design & Production organized and detail oriented indiv related, well organized, detail-oriented, Fax resume to 212-448-0926 specs / sketching, CAD, tech packages, See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com with outstanding communication and Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 Purchasing Agent computer skills, to work in a high ener- strong color sense, knits / wovens / den- Leading Hat/Scarve Co seeks purchas- gy prod’n dept. Knowledge of Mandar- im required. Fax resume to (212) 869- ing agent with min. 3 years experience in is a plus. 1 year experience Employee 2838, Attn Design Director. order/negotitate and follow up on ven- friendly with full company benefits! dor orders. all benfits fax resumes: Please fax resume to: COSTING (212)563-0204 fast paced !!!!! JM @ 212-944-2867 The fastest growing ladies suit and DESIGN sportswear manufacturer and importer FASHION OPPORTUNITIES ASST /ASSOC. DESIGNERS in the industry currently has a costing ASST DESIGNER Artists - Designers - Technicals - QUALITY CONTROLLER position available in our Production Production-Sales-Patternmakers-etc Fast paced updated private label sports- Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) Growing NJ based Co. seeking 10+ yrs exp NAP, Inc. Department located in mid-town wear mfr. seeks an exp’d individual --Tech knowledge of knits & wovens-- Leading NY based Intimate Apparel Manhattan! Successful candidates with a minimum of 3-4 yrs. We are look- Ladies Garments Company seeks creative, organized must have previous costing experience ing for a highly motivated, creative, or- Email Resume to: [email protected] individuals for all levels of design. with imported garments from samples ganized, self starter. Must have excel- CAD exp a must. Send resume and sal and sketches. Proficiency in Excel is lent flat sketching; through knowledge Graphic Artist/ req to 212-481-7498 Attn: Miriam required. We offer a competitive of trim & fabric markets. Excellent Assistant Designer salary and benefit package. Please fax follow-up skills. Exp. in running a sam- your resume with salary requirements For women’s sportswear company. BOOKKEEPER ple room a must! Right hand to design Proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. Designers’ rep seeks experienced book- to the attention of: Mr. Evans at director. Must be a team player. Excel- 973-258-0978 Email: [email protected] or keeper. Responsibilities include bill- lent opportunity for the right person! Fax: (212) 764-4986, Attn. Design ing, commission analysis, collections, Please fax resume to: (212) 302-1561. and communication with vendors. Strong computer skills required, in- cluding Quick-books, Excel and Word. Marketing Coordinator E-mail resume and salary require- Women’s bridge apparel co seeks detail- ments to: [email protected] DESIGN ASST oriented indiv w/strong writing, verbal Seeking design asst with min 1 yr. communication, and organizational skills. BUYER exp. Must have sketching exp. Some Exp in project management, marketing Ready to wear buyer wanted for Long pattern and technical knowledge is re- and fashion req. Proactive, focused person- Island high volume retail operation. quired. Must be able to work in a fast ality best suited. Must be proficient in Call Marty or Liz 631-420-0890 paced environment. Excel and Word. Please fax resume to: or fax resume 631-752-7785 Fax resumes to 646-473-0982 (212) 683-6761 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2004 15

Ladies Suit Sales Sales MERCHANDISING POSITIONS Once in a lifetime opportunity. Domestic PRIVATE LABEL sportswear company seeks energetic MACYS.COM Sales Person with contacts to become SWEATER SALES avital part of our team. Excellent growth Young spirited sweater importer seeks The New York based merchandising team of this world-class opportunity for enthusiastic, motivated self motivated, high-energy, organized ACCOUNTS retailer is seeking talented candidates for DIRECTOR OF TIME FOR A CHANGE individual. Salary plus commission. junior Salesperson. Fax resume to Joe @(212) 643-1289 RECEIVABLE PLANNING and ASSISTANT BUYER positions. Must have Come join us! We are a Three years private label import experience Knowledge of all tiers of business. retail experience, preferably in Internet/catalog environment, diverse, successful private label required. Strong communication, Proficient with A2000. Provide salary excellent computer, analytical, communication, organizational computer and presentation skills are requirements with resume. company doing business for over 50 essential. Must have a passion to explore Fax: 212-944-2055 and problem solving skills. years. We offer a pleasant work and develop new accounts. We offer NEW YORK REP WANTED excellent benefits. To apply, log on to www.macysjobs.com. environment with offices in both the NY Rep for Montreal collection. Young, Macys.com is an equal opportunity employer. U.S. and Asia. We are searching for contemporary washable leather & suede, Please email your resume to Private Label Sales woven & knit sportswear. Contact Taline: [email protected] or a dynamic sales professional who Fax {212} 840-7742 Canadian mfr. of Ladies’ Sportswear & can hit the ground running. Must Tel: 514-381-4112 / Fax: 514-381-3559 Dresses seeks Independent Reps w/est’d. Retail Sales Professional connections for small retail chains. Fax TECHNICAL DESIGNER have strong sales ability, proven C.V. to: 514-272-6721 Leading apparel co. seeks a tech. track record and current relation- Well known contemporary sweater/ Energized. designer for junior cut & sew & knit knit Co. seeks exp’d sales pros. Min 5 tops. Must have exp. working w/ ships with catalogues and stores for years exp reqd, strong connection And growing. NY Sales Pro w/major, specialty chain in better mkt. overseas & domestic factories, develop private label. We will consider only 2 year young, Premium Contemporary Sportswear/T-Shirt Line detailed technical packages & lead fit High commission incentive plan and Well established Canadian mfr of Girls’ Aeropostale is a rapidly expanding re- candidates with min 10 yrs experi- Jeanswear Co. - Presents a great oppty. great working environment. sessions to ensure quality & resolve all for an aggressive NY based Sales Pro. sportswear / t-shirts needs a sales tailer with a fresh approach to fashion. production/design issues. Excellent ence selling women’s apparel. Hard Fax resume to 646-473-0963 or agent with showroom to sell to depart- Our commitment to success is reflect- Must be an extremely self-motivated e-mail: [email protected] verbal/written skills are essential. work and results will be handsomely team player, with at least 2-3 yrs expe- ment and chain stores. Will be in New ed in the attention we give to develop- Must be computer literate. Min. 3 - 5 York, Wednesday 7 April, so please con- ing dynamic careers. Due to our expan- rewarded with a generous compensa- rience w/ strong established contacts yrs exp. required. in the better Specialty and Dept. store SALES PRO - JRS. tact Lindy at 1-877-384-7462 or e-mail sion, we have the following opportuni- Please fax resume in confidence tion plan. Please send resume: [email protected] before then. ties available in our New York office: business. Salary + Comm. and Great Established Jr. company seeks energetic to Evan: 212-819-1912. Fax: 212-594-3009 Benefits Pkg. Must be computer literate N.Y. based SALES PRO with strong &willing to travel. Please e-mail cover relationships with Specialty Chains & *Divisional letter & resume to: [email protected] Department stores to launch an exciting new knit top line. Must expand business Merchandise Manager- in all territories. Great Benefits. Women’s Knits and Sweaters Account Executive Please fax resume to: (610) 932-7051 Leading private label ladies sports- or E-MAIL: [email protected] wear co. seeking an established key P o l e c i *Merchandiser - TECHNICAL DESIGNER account salesperson to join our team! Men’s Graphics Must have 5 yrs minimum experience A leader in the contemporary market Leading childrenswear mfr is seeking in dealing with national accounts. has 2 positions for its expanding www.littlebig.com.tr aTechnical Designer for Newborn - Friendly work environment with New York showroom. *Assistant Size 16. Provide specs development, fit tremendous support system in place. Sr. Account Executive Independent Sales Reps analysis, on-line flat sketching, pre- 3-5 years in the contemporary *DALLAS Merchandiser - Competitive salary and benefits offered. RETAIL SALES costing specs, organize accurate Please fax resume to MM 212-944-8409 market place with Major and *ATLANTA Women’s Knits and Sweaters packages, and provide tech/dvlpmnt Specialty Store relationships. *CHICAGO support for design & merchandising Assistant to Sales Manager LA PERLA *FLORIDA *Technical Design team. Working knowl of fit, construction, Must be fashionable, detail-oriented, Established sales reps with own patterns, grading & computer skills a Da-Nang - Joe’s - Follies computer literate and hard working. Seeks Sales Associates with strong showroom & existing better specialty Manager must. Excellent salary & benefits. Please email us your resume at: ready-to-wear and lingerie experience store accounts for Men’s and Women’s E-mail resume: Looking for 3 specialists to run better [email protected] for the New York & Beverly Hills Stores. European contemporary denim line. [email protected] or fax: (212) contemporary specialty store sales. Please fax resume to Sarah: Please E-mail: [email protected] 643-2826. No calls please. EOE. 3-5 years experience selling similar {212} 459-3413 or Fax: 212-868-2120 *Technical Designer- lines is a must. Please e-mail resumes: Women’s Knits & Sweaters [email protected] *Store Planner SALES TECHNICAL MANAGER FABRIC Better contemporary women sports- For Pattern Dept Merchandisers/Sales wear mfr. is seeking a sales rep for *Public Relations Entry Level individuals with good our corporate office. Email resume to: Moderate sportswear manufactuer [email protected] seeks experieced technical mmager textile background req’d. by Top-End Manager for Pattern Dept to join our wovenn Silk Producer selling to High-End production team. Candidates must Designers Worldwide. Fax: 212-764-4246 *Visual Merchandise have full kniowledge of garment con- struction. GOod computer skills to be SALES MANAGER Coordinator able to give clear guidlines and direc- Must be highly professional, self- tives to fctories. motivated individual to lead sales for We offer a competitive salary and com- Fax resume to: 212-730-2531 JONDEN women’s designer hat and accessory prehensive benefits package that in- 1411 Broadway company. Experience a must, comput- cludes a generous merchandise dis- Missy knit sportswear company seeks er literate, able to travel. Fax resume count, a casual work environment and Chiago Mid-West specialty rep. with hand-written cover letter to: growth potential. Please forward your FAX: 718-369-4927 KOKIN (212) 643-8284 resume indicating position of interest, TEXTILE DESIGNER to: Aeropostale, 112 West 34th Street, Full time. Design studio seeks energetic 22 Floor, New York, NY 10120; CAD designer to create prints for the Fax: 646-485-5430 or Email: apparel and home markets. Must have [email protected] We are an a good eye for color and a contempo- equal opportunity employer, m/f rary, trendy hand. Proficient in Photoshop and Illustrator. Please call Stephanie @ Aeropostale 212-594-0777 for a portfolio review.

The Museum of Modern Art has Sales Assistant openings in the Visual Display ENTRY LEVEL area of its Retail division: CP Shades, a California based contem- porary casual clothing manufacturer is ASSISTANT MANAGER, looking for an entry-level Sales Asst. VISUAL DISPLAY for our New York Showroom. Must have Responsible for creating and maintain- knowledge of Microsoft Excel & Word, ing visual displays for store windows be organized, detail oriented & friendly. and store interiors including painting Please fax resume to: (212) 869-9802 and building props and designing and building fixtures. The qualified individ- ual will have a college degree, at least 5 years retail, stage design or interior Sales Assistant design experience and will be a strong Fast paced Apparel Company has an self-starter. opening for a Sales Assistant. Responsi- bilities include order placement, VISUAL DISPLAY account follow up and communication COORDINATOR and interfacing with both design and Will aid the Assistant Manager and production. Experience with Word and assist the stores to help identify visual Excel required. The candidate is organ- needs including: holiday set-up for win- ized, detail oriented and thrives in a dows and floors, the maintenance and multi-tasking environment. Minimum inventory of fixtures, the production of two years experience required. Fax store signage and the maintenance of resume to 212-842-4030 Attn: J Leib. We displays. The coordinator must have are an equal opportunity employer. a college degree, at least 2 years experi- ence, a good sense of style and be able SaraMax to work with the tools of the trade. Please send, fax or e-mail your resume to: Leslie Stabiner - Manager, Sample Cutter Employee Relations Couture house seeks person to cut one The Museum of Modern Art of a kind pieces. Must have knowledge 11 West 53rd St., New York, NY 10019 of matching & grading. Minimum 5 E-mail: [email protected] years exp. Fax resume: 212-279-0368 Fax: (212) 333-1197 SAMPLEMAKER Women’s wear apparel company seeks experienced samplemaker. Call (212) 382-0400 bet. 12-1PM Raffi US Account Executive Seeking a highly enthusiastic Sales Rep w/min 3-5 yrs exp to join our fast growing brand. You have a great sense of fashion, excellent communication Shipping Coordinator skills, & an entrepreneurial spirit to de- Garment import Co. seeks exp’d indiv. to velop our existing business/open new follow-up shipping docs & work w/ freight accounts. Relationships w/ major retail- forwarder. Fax: (212) 354-2226 or ers A+ Computer & org’l skills a must! E-mail: [email protected] Customer Service / Sales Assistant Excellent communication & data entry skills required in a person who can multi-task in a fast paced environ- ment. You will be involved in all phas- TECHNICAL DESIGNER es of admin & sales including order Growing Jr. sportswear co. seeks exp’d processing, customer follow-up, and re- pro to assist designer. Thorough knowl- turns. Must be service oriented, and edge of tech pack & specs for oversees possess a great fashion sense. Min 2 production. Detail oriented, team play er. years related experience. Fax resume: 212-840-1374 or email: Fax resumes & brief cover letter to HR [email protected] at: 212-840-3630 Web Based ERP, Production, Sourcing & Supply Chain Visibility www.ngcsoftware.com New York (212) 369-3778 Miami (305) 556-9122 The Complete Planning Resource for the Discerning and Stylish Bride

FALL ‘04 ISSUE ON SALE: JUNE 15, 2004 AD SPACE CLOSE: APRIL 21, 2004

For more information contact Andy Amill, Publisher at 212.630.4876