UNITED STATE DUNHILL REVS UP OF MIND THE LABEL’S A BUOYANT NEW SCENT, AMERICAN MARKET WAS ICON, IS SET A KEY TOPIC AT THE PITTI THE DRESS RACE IS ON TO LAUNCH IMMAGINE UOMO TRADE WITH THE OSCAR NOMINEES SET, THE FOCUS MONDAY. SHOW. PAGES 4 AND 5 TURNS TO WHO WILL WEAR WHAT. PAGE 11 PAGE 7

WWDFRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY END OF AN ERROR Target Exiting Canada, Court OKs Liquidation “I came hoping to fi nd a path By SHARON EDELSON that would allow us to continue operations in Canada,” Cornell BRIAN CORNELL CONTINUES said during a conference call with to shake things up at Target. retail analysts on Thursday. “My The retailer on Thursday de- strong preference was to develop a cided to end its money-losing plan to fulfi ll that vision. I realized business in Canada and received the solution would not be easy.” permission from a Canadian Cornell said that when he realized court to begin the liquidation the extent to which Target had process, including the appoint- disappointed Canadian consum- ment of Alvarez & Marsal Canada, ers, he decided the problems were under the Companies’ Creditors insurmountable. Target will close Arrangement Act. 133 stores, which will result in a When Cornell joined Target loss of about 17,600 jobs. Corp. as chairman and chief execu- Target’s entry into Canada tive offi cer in August, he promised began in 2011, when it acquired employees and shareholders that 220 Zellers leases from Hudson’s he would take a “good, hard look at Bay Co. for about $1.6 billion. The our business and operations in an toll on Target’s fi nancial position effort to improve performance and has continued to grow, resulting transform the company.” SEE PAGE 8

SWISS BANK SHOCK Richemont Sales Sluggish, New Challenges Ahead Richemont said in a trading By SAMANTHA CONTI update that sales at constant ex- change rates were fl at at 2.94 bil- LONDON — An unexpected lion euros, or $3.68 billion, in the move by the Swiss National Bank three months to Dec. 31, and rose has added to the challenges at 4 percent at reported rates, due to Compagnie Financière Richemont. a boost from favorable foreign ex- Troubles in Hong Kong damaged change rates. BEAUTY third-quarter sales at Richemont, All fi gures have been converted one in a string of luxury companies at average exchange rates for the VLOGGERS that has fallen victim to political periods to which they refer. unrest in the region. Despite the currency boost, In addition, the Swiss National Richemont’s sales fell short of Bank’s surprising decision analysts’ projections of 1.5 percent Thursday to de-peg the Swiss franc growth at constant rates, and Citi’s from the euro could mean more projection of 2 percent growth. Who’s Pulling challenges to come. SEE PAGE 9 The Strings? A new generation of self-styled beauty vloggers is fl owing onto YouTube, inspired by the meteoric rise of pioneers like Michelle Phan. While the sweep of a golden mascara wand may attract an immense audience, it also raises some thorny issues. The traditional role of advocacy is being redefi ned — and strained — like never before. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

ILLUSTRATION BY TIM ROBINSON 2 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 WWD.COM

FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA IS MOVING, EFFECTIVE MONDAY, JAN. 19. DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX THE EDITORIAL STAFF’S ALL SAMPLE DELIVERIES FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. NEW MAILING ADDRESS IS SHOULD BE SENT TO 475 Fifth Avenue; New York, NY 10017. 1158 Broadway; New York, NY 10001. ON INSTAGRAM #15SECONDSWITHALEXBADIA Celebs Design Fendi for Charity which Fendi is launching at the end of this month. By LUISA ZARGANI Proceeds will be channeled to charitable organi- zations selected by each woman. Rihanna proceeds MILAN — Fendi has teamed with Rihanna, Sarah will benefi t The Clara Lionel Foundation, which Jessica Parker, Rachel Feinstein, Jourdan Dunn she founded in 2012 in honor of her grandparents, and Leandra Medine on a new charity project that and which works to improve the quality of life for will mark the official inauguration of the brand’s communities globally in the areas of health, educa- newest flagship on Madison Avenue in New York. tion, arts and culture. Parker’s designs will benefi t Fendi has asked the fi ve women to personalize The Brain Trauma Foundation, while Dunn’s are their own 3Baguette handbag — a style launched aimed at The Sickle Cell Disease Association of at the end of last year that reinterprets the Fendi America. The Man Repeller’s Medine will support accessory with a more structured shape and the FF the Ovarian Cancer Research Fund and Feinstein logo becoming a lock rather than simply a decora- has chosen to help the Naomi Berrie Diabetes tive element. Parker, Rihanna and Feinstein have Center at Columbia Presbyterian Hospital. also designed micro-baguette models. The bags will “The Fendi customer is active in different fi elds be unveiled at a cocktail party at the new store on and engaged socially,” Beccari told WWD, explain- Follow WWD for the latest from the men’s collections. Feb. 13 hosted by Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Venturini ing the diversity of the fi ve artists. “There is not Fendi and chairman and chief executive offi cer only one kind of woman and they are each excel- ON FACEBOOK Pietro Beccari. lent in their own fi eld,” he noted, underscoring the ON PINTEREST personal relationships forged with Venturini Fendi. “It’s a celebration of femininity. After all, think of Sarah Jessica the fi ve [Fendi] sisters. Karl and I are like brothers Parker shows surrounded by all these women.” off her take The executive highlighted how personal the on a Fendi project was. “They had free rein, choosing their fa- purse. vorite colors, favoring their own personal tastes. It also shows that nothing is impossible with the in- credible artisans at Fendi,” claimed Beccari. As an example, he cited Feinstein’s “work of art, similar to the Pompeii mosaics,” referring to the artist’s de- sign, featuring different genres of fi sh. Asked to explain the ongoing success of the Baguette, he said it “is a fantastic creative outlet in its essence and is easy to adapt to different styles. It’s perfectly in line with the more personal taste that is emerging today. The uniqueness, the differ- entiation, the variations and the customization per- fectly symbolize the current trend.” The new Peter Marino-designed fl agship opened at the end of November. Speaking of the opening Street style looks of the day. Popular looks from the runway. event, Beccari said “it had been a while” since the last big event in New York. “It’s a market that is greatly picking up for luxury. We are very happy with its performance and this is our homage to the relevance of this market now and in the future.” Fendi last year launched a similar charity proj- ect to mark the opening of its London fl agship col- The bags will be on display at the New York unit laborating with the likes of Tracey Emin, Gwyneth from Feb. 13 to March 13 and available for pur- Paltrow, Zaha Hadid and Jerry Hall, who custom- chase at the same time through a dedicated online ized the brand’s women’s Peekaboo handbag, raising auction site, launch3baguetteauction.fendi.com, funds for the London and Bristol-based Kids Co. Uniqlo Suppliers Cited for Factory Conditions had found discrepancies with several points in By WWD STAFF SACOM’s report regarding Pacifi c (Pan Yu) Textiles, including that the cause of a worker’s death was by TOKYO — Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. said Thursday it electrocution. It said it would continue its investi- PHOTOS BY KUBA DABROWSKI KUBA PHOTOS BY has instructed two of its Uniqlo suppliers in China gation and seek talks with SACOM for clarifi cation. GIANNONI GIOVANNI FORD BY ALL PHOTOS EXCEPT to improve factory working conditions after an in- Dongguan Tomwell Garment makes clothes for spection by the Japanese apparel retailer found Uniqlo, and Pacifi c (Pan Yu) Textiles supplies tex- several problems, including long work hours. tiles to garment factories, including Dongguan. The move came after SACOM, a Hong Kong- Neither company answered calls seeking comment. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA based advocacy group, issued a report saying that Fast Retailing also said it would take steps to @ WWD.com/social employees at Dongguan Tomwell Garment Co. Ltd. improve its monitoring system for its manufactur- and Pacifi c (Pan Yu) Textiles Holdings Ltd. were ing partners, including beefi ng up measures to TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. working excessive hours in unsafe conditions, in- check overtime hours, tracking such information as WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. cluding extremely high temperatures, poor venti- employee accidents and strikes, and introducing a COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 10. FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays lation and fl oors covered with sewage. On Monday, system to monitor textile factories that supply gar- and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two Fast Retailing responded to the report and said it ment plants. additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, was investigating conditions at the two factories. Nitta said Fast Retailing would check progress and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, “Respecting human rights and ensuring ap- within a month along with third parties, including Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. auditors. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, propriate working conditions for the workers of P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please our production partners are top priorities for Fast Kwan Liang, a project offi cer with SACOM, said include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes Retailing, and in this we are completely aligned Thursday the organization has yet to talk directly or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. with SACOM,” Yukihiro Nitta, Fast Retailing’s group with Fast Retailing, but she was pleased with the If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed senior vice president responsible for Corporate Japanese company’s action so far. with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a Social Responsibility, said in Thursday’s statement. “We welcome the statement because they act so subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Fast Retailing said it had told Dongguan Tomwell fast. We look forward to having a dialogue with the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. Garment and Pacifi c (Pan Yu) Textiles to make vari- company. We also want to emphasize that the work- For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. ous improvements in regulating working hours and ers’ well-being should be the top priority. This is To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, their factories. It also instructed Dongguan Tomwell what SACOM is fi ghting for. We hope the workers, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, Garment to establish a workers’ union, hold elections no matter what supplier they are working for, can AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY and organize its fi rst assembly in March. get a fundamental improvement in working condi- REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS However, the company said its inspection tions,” Liang said. SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 6657_SUMMITS_BEAU_DIG_2015_headshots.pdf 1 1/14/15 6:33 PM

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David Olsen The NET-A-PORTER Group

Kristen D'Arcy B e COTY BEAUTY NYC February 12, 2015

Kathy O'Brien Katia Beauchamp Unilever Birchbox Aurelie Brisac CLARINS Francisco Gimenez eSalon

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FAIRCHILD EVENT SUMMITS SPONSORS ANNUAL PARTNERS 4 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 U.S. Market in Focus at Pitti FLORENCE — Thank goodness for America. seasons,” said the brand’s chief execu- expansion. There are too many brands that growth in sales ever. “We tripled online That seemed to be the mantra at the tive offi cer Gian Maria Argentini, adding offer meaningless product. About three and grew 250 percent overall, with brace- Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show this week, that some styles will be specifi cally de- months ago, people just stopped buying lets accounting for 75 percent of our busi- as brands discussed their rush to tap into signed for American customers. — it was like a big bang,” he said, adding ness,” explained founder and designer the buoyant U.S. market, which is becom- He said the label aims to generate that he was going after high-end, artisanal Catherine Zadeh. ing the focus for many luxury labels as the about 5 million euros, or about $6.3 mil- brands such as Ermanno Gallamini and his Dexter Peart, cofounder of Want Les European and Japanese economies remain lion at current exchange rate, with its reversible, hand-knitted ponchos, to offset Essentiels de la Vie, one of the buzziest ac- in the doldrums and China’s growth slows. U.S. wholesale business by 2020. the negative trend. “Only items with a char- cessories labels of the show, said the brand In the fi rst nine months of 2014, exports Italy’s deputy minister for economic acter will always do well,” he argued. has profi ted from the new art of travel and of Italian men’s wear to the U.S. jumped development Carlo Calenda has also Retailers generally agreed that niche expects to double sales in 2015, pointing to 7.8 percent to 415 million euros, or $562.9 vowed to help local companies boost categories represent the new growth areas gloves as an underdeveloped category that million at average exchange rate, for the their business in North America. — and found plenty of them on offer at Pitt. doubled at the label in 2014. period. The U.S. is now the third most im- In contrast, Japanese retailers are said Tom Kalenderian, executive vice presi- Eric Jennings, vice president and men’s portant market for Italian men’s wear, fol- to be struggling with a less optimistic busi- dent and general merchandise manager of fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, lowing France and Switzerland. ness outlook. “It’s been a tough season for men’s wear at Barneys New York, welcomed said he was particularly pleased with No wonder many Italian companies us,” conceded Hirofumi Kurino, general the fall-winter edition’s offer as “not only the knitwear offering, also on outerwear were looking to woo U.S. clients at the manager and chief creative director of relevant for the men’s business today, but a items. “The sweater top coat in washed fair, or are taking the leap across the United Arrows, citing a slump in sales of source of inspiration,” he said. He pointed or unconstructed wool is a must,” he said, pond for the fi rst time — among them, between 5 and 10 percent over the winter. to new opportunities for growth coming naming bottoms as another best-selling men’s trouser specialist Jeckerson, which “People say it’s because of the consumer from jewelry and soft accessories as well as category — be it slim chinos, joggers or recently set up a subsidiary in New York. tax and unfavorable weather, but I think small leather goods and luggage. motor-pants — and singling out green as “We think that we can target about 100 the mentality of the Japanese customer is Case in point: New York-based the hue of the season. doors in the U.S. and we plan to get into changing, and Europe is soon to follow suit. jewelry brand Zadeh, which, over the — ALEX BADIA, PAULINA SZMYDKE between 30 and 50 of them within three The market has expanded, but it’s not real course of 2014, witnessed its steepest AND ALESSANDRA TURRA

G-Star Raw tailored coats in cashmere and Etnia Barcelona Key styles: Best known for its high-end Fusalp wool, as well as more sporty op- Key styles: Inspired by the African selvage and 3-D styles such as the G-Star tions, such as bombers and pad- savanna, round, square and slightly Elwood, the Dutch denim maker has put ded jackets. cat-eye frames were worked in eco- a focus on the fit-for-all look this season. Designer/Inspiration: Established Eleventy logical acetate reproducing wood, Design/Inspiration: With the introduction of in 2006 by Marco Baldassari, horn and animal patterns, includ- Slander Denim, the company is venturing Paul Zuntini and Andrea deeper into the next generation of stretch Scuderi, Eleventy is focused on based on a combination of fused fibers offering high quality men’s wear and with special attention to washing. The at affordable prices. The brand’s result is a rugged, worn-out look with a collections, which are produced in soft feel, as seen on a classic Elwood with Italy, range from tailoring pieces novel biker zippers on the knees. updated with a young, contempo- Prices: The Elwood retails for rary feel, to more sporty and casual around $188. options. Eleventy is debuting in the U.S. market with the fall/winter col- Zadeh lection presented at Pitti Uomo. Etnia Designer: Catherine Zadeh G-Star Raw Prices: Blazers retail from $595 to $645, Barcelona Key styles: Zadeh’s hand- while suits prices are $995 to $1,695. manufactured bracelets made in New York have be- come as indispensable to a man’s wardrobe as a pair of well-polished derbies. Done in silver, sustainable buffalo horn or waterproof parachute cord, the pieces blend into every situation. Design/Inspiration: The idea highest possible waterproof is to mix and match vari- attributes and breathability. ous styles, which are as There is also an Italian wool parka with a rabbit-lined hoodie and soft shell around Zadeh the elbows. Prices: A nylon-down biker jacket retails for $930, a parka goes for $1,666.

Ghurka Key styles: A gentleman’s favor- ite, Ghurka is on a mission to conquer the globe-trotting male with an assortment of travel leather goods that subtle as they are elegant. Key pieces don’t wrinkle the clothing. Case in point: include a colorful macramé weave next the brand’s best-selling Kilburn duffel in to a distressed silver bracelet or buf- vintage chestnut. Its mantra: Return to falo horn cuff with rose and white gold traditionalism without being dowdy. inserts, where each strand is carved by Designer/Inspiration: Celebrating its 40th hand and, with time, assumes a unique anniversary, Ghurka has reintroduced Hood by Air: Shayne Oliver stepped it Marni: For the brand’s comeback to patina. the company’s signature Derby check up a notch in Florence. the runway, Marni creative director Prices: Pieces retail from $320 to $4,700. with a special coating that makes the These were no suits for wallfl owers. Consuelo Castiglioni conjured up a bags water- and stain-repellent. Cue weightlifting belts strapped like sophisticated elegance shaken up by Fusalp Prices: The new duffel in chestnut leath- corsets over tailored jackets, cutouts the designer’s signature quirky touch. Key styles: This skiwear specialist, acquired er with solid brass hardware is called on the back and shoulders of topcoats Castiglioni looked back to the by members of the Lacoste family in Cavalier II and retails for $1,761. and heavy padding borrowed from iconic styles of men’s wear from 2014, is branching out into après- motocross uniforms. different decades. Sixties’ references ski with its first full-fledged out- Eleventy While some looks were overworked emerged in the fi tted micro-checkered erwear collection. Key styles: Eleventy conjured a and veered into conceptual Maison suits worn with chunky Chelsea Design/Inspiration: Blending Ghurka sporty-chic look for fall. Pants Martin Margiela territory, the collection boots, while the slightly fl ared pants functionality with with relaxed sil- felt cleaner and more grown-up. matched with shrunken sweaters fashion, Fusalp’s houettes, one Emerging from the terrace of projected a Seventies’ vibe. In outerwear uses of the season’s an ancient villa set high up on the keeping with the brand’s origins, fur luxury fabrics biggest trends, hills of Florence, Oliver’s gang of added a luxurious yet unexpectedly with high- were paired cartoonish characters sported funky playful touch. Even if the designer performance with blaz- hairdos, Seventies platform boots focused on a more mature aesthetic, characteristics. ers worked in and fake white eyelashes. It was fi lled with tailoring elements, she Examples in- stretch fabrics an unusual, intriguing marriage didn’t lose her unique approach, clude a jacket for a comfort- of Italian luxury and outré street which is defi nitely young at heart. in Korean nylon able fit. The line- subculture. — P.S. — A.T.

boasting the up also included CARRUBBA MATTEO ELEVENTY BY PAVESI; GIOVANNA AIR AND MARNI BY ; HOOD BY MAESTRI GHURKA, DAVIDE CUCINELLI, POP EYE AND TREND PHOTOS BY FUSALP, WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 5 WWD.COM ing zebra stripes and giraffe spots. The Massimo Alba always runs through his brand’s collec- brand also presented a round style with Key styles: Cashmere sweaters, hand tions. Known for its chic, subdued ele- a vintage feel, in gold or platinum pleat- painted with watercolors, were treated gance, the label focuses on luxury fabrics ed aluminum, which will be exclusively to achieve a slightly crispy texture and a worked to obtain unexpected hands and available at Intermix. used look. Worked in a color palette that dyed with natural colors. U.S. Market in Focus at Pitti Designer/Inspiration: Launched in Spain ranged from neutrals to vivid hues of Prices: Cashmere sweaters retail from in 2003, the label offers eyewear collec- green, purple and saffron, knitwear also $795 to $1,195, while outerwear prices tions focused on somewhat classic shapes included precious sweaters in alpaca range from $1,495 to $2,495. worked in bright colors and patterns. The and yak wool, which were paired with frames are also matched with mineral lens- cotton and cashmere shirts and relaxed Sutor Mantellassi es produced by Italian specialist Barberini. Key styles: The luxury footwear label Prices: The Africa-inspired sunglasses re- launched a special shoe project cele- tail between $265 and $299, while the gold brating the 50th anniversary of the night and platinum pleated styles are $345. when Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni Massimo left his handprints on the Hollywood Vittorio Branchizio Alba Walk of Fame. Mastroianni was wearing Designer: Vittorio Branchizio a pair of Sutor Mantellassi shoes then, Key styles: The Italian knitwear brand mixes so the company asked five personalities cutting-edge technology with avant-garde from the design and fashion worlds to re- interpret the style. This week, the brand unveiled the project’s first style, called M.M.1, designed by Justin Deakin, who matched crocodile and leather for a dou- Brunello Cucinelli ble-monk strap shoe, which will be pro- duced in a limited number of 50 pieces. Designer/Inspiration: Known for its luxury, Brunello Cucinelli classic shoes completely manufactured in Key Styles: Soft tailored suits featuring Italy, Sutor Mantellassi is working to up- pleated carrot pants were shown with date its image by introducing more casual T-shirts and relaxed sweaters. Cucinelli and sporty styles. These include a new line also matched sporty jogging jersey trou- of upscale sneakers, featuring no stitches sers and cargos with elegant blazers for and a rubber sole with a calf leather heel Vittorio a sporty-chic mood. Outerwear included inspired by formal shoes. The brand Branchizio power coats that were cut longer than is also expanding its offering of in previous seasons — such as a hand- leather goods, including belts made style in a luxurious double cash- and precious, yet practical styles. Founded in 2014, the company’s sig- mere fabric — as well as relaxed knit briefcases. nature is hand-printed geometric shapes jackets, leather vests and blousons with wide-wale cor- Sutor Prices: While the and 3-D jacquards on cashmere and silk shearling collars. duroy pants. The Mantellassi M.M.1 shoe sweaters as well as outerwear hybrids. Designer/Inspiration: Casual and sartorial offering was com- will retail Design/Inspiration: For winter, a novel knit- found a balance in Cucinelli’s collection, pleted by top coats, at about ting machine made in Japan has allowed which offered a sophisticated yet relaxed including a style in $1,056, the Branchizio to produce multicolored knits take on classic tailoring. The lineup’s ele- Florentine-classic main collec- made of two layers that look as if they gant spirit was exalted by the subdued color Casentino wool. tion’s formal were quilted. palette, where classic men’s hues, including Designer/Inspiration: “Nature and sporty styles Prices: At wholesale, prices range between dark gray and brown, were paired with soft is always my source of inspi- are sold at about $173 for an intarsia cashmere sweater to shades of vanilla, beige and almond. ration,” said Massimo Alba, $938 to $584 re- $259 for a biker-inspired jacket. Prices: Not yet priced. referring to the organic feel that spectively. Trend Right

CHUNKY SNEAKERS Grenson

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BELTED CARDIGANS Maison Lvchino TEXTURED FUR ACCENTS TURTLENECKS SOFT FEDORAS Lardini Cruciani My Bob

SUITING THIN BELTS FABRICS FOR HERITAGE GLOVES Troubadour OUTERWEAR Want Les Essentiels de la Vie

Traditional Weatherwear FUSALP, GHURKA, CUCINELLI, POP EYE AND TREND PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI ; HOOD BY AIR AND MARNI BY GIOVANNA PAVESI; ELEVENTY BY MATTEO CARRUBBA MATTEO ELEVENTY BY PAVESI; GIOVANNA AIR AND MARNI BY ; HOOD BY MAESTRI GHURKA, DAVIDE CUCINELLI, POP EYE AND TREND PHOTOS BY FUSALP, 6 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 beauty

Beauty Vloggers: Cracking the Credibility Code Cracking the Credibility Code

can strain credibility. their own strings. These content creators, homepage. additionally, Nilsen encour- By Jayme Cyk Case in point: beauty vloggers of all like Phan, contend that they won’t endorse ages readers to check out the wipes under ages are putting forth their honest opin- products that do nothing for them. many of the video tutorials she posts. a FLOOD OF up-and-coming beauty vlog- ion on specific beauty products, but an Brands seem to be catching on. On Jan. “I am okay with turning down

gers are ripe and ready to make deals, increasing number of them have gone to 6, Lancôme disclosed its partnership with brands if it’s not in line with my vi- hoping to catch a book or a fragrance work for brands and are drawing a pay- Lisa eldridge, while Dulce Candy was sion,” said Nilsen, otherwise known as contract and even the chance to be on check. This raises a question: How unbi- made ambassador for Too Faced’s Better missGlamorazzi. “I’ve been working with “Dancing with the Stars.” ased is the advice? Than Sex mascara last summer. fewer brands, [which] means I am able to Over the last decade, the phenomenon maureen mullen, cofounder of L2 So what can brands look forward to with focus on building out those relationships of the self-made video makeup expert Inc., and head of research, acknowl- this new onslaught of beauty vloggers? with a long-term potential and have room has exploded on youTube, drawing 700 edged that while the practice of hiring “There will definitely be consolida- to still create my own content.” ’’ million monthly video views collectively, vloggers as spokespeople has become tion [with vloggers],” said Wende Zomnir, Given its experience with missGlamorazzi, according to Pixability’s 2014 Beauty on more common, traditional concepts of founding partner and chief executive yes To is looking for a vlogger to promote youTube report. In the process, these credibility are undergoing redefinition. officer of Urban Decay. “[also,] there’s its acne line. young starlets have turned youTube into “The pay-to-play program with the vlog- going to be segmentation. you’re going to and no wonder. according to a survey a hunting ground for brands hungry for gers has hit it a little more mainstream,” find specialists in certain areas.” conducted by Variety, which was given to digital ambassadors to young audiences she said. “The link has become a little “It’s going to get pretty cluttered 1,500 americans aged 13 to 18, youTube in cyberspace. Beauty vlogging has been bit more tenuous.” as more brands [enlist vloggers] more stars are more popular than mainstream such a boom that the original pioneers — But the vloggers insist that they re- often,” said Joy Chen, ceo of yes To. “But celebs among U.S. teens. Variety noted michelle Phan, Bethany mota and Ingrid main unbiased in their viewpoint, even the key part is to find the right creative that this is due to the fact that they enjoy a Nilsen — have given birth to a new gen- if they are on the corporate payroll. “If collaboration with the right vlogger.” more intimate, authentic experience with eration of content creators. there’s a brand I don’t like, I normally In January 2014, yes To enlisted Nilsen vlogging celebrities who aren’t subject to “The reason why people are really don’t even talk about it or feature it,” to help design a set of limited edition images or strategies carefully orchestrated gravitating toward them is they are not said michelle Phan, queen of the beauty wipes for the holidays. according to the by PR pros. also, the survey found that just a one [trick pony],” said Lisa Green, vloggers with an estimated empire worth company, the wipes have been available “teens appreciate youTube stars’ more head of industry, luxury, and branded ap- $84 million, including a licensing deal on yestocarrots.com since mid-September candid sense of humor, lack of filter and parel at Google. “They’re almost lifestyle with L’Oréal. “If someone is going to pay and are outselling every other wipe by risk-taking spirit, behaviors often curbed brands within themselves.” for something, it has to be a product that more than 300 percent. The page where by Hollywood handlers.” and yet, beauty vlogging has become I really enjoy.” the wipes are featured thus far has had “It’s accurate to say that these vlog- There will definitely be so powerful that its basic premise as for the question of who is calling the more than 23,000 views and is the second gers have become celebrities,” Green serves up contradictory messages that shots, beauty vloggers claim they’re pulling most-trafficked page after the company’s said. “But they are almost one step better consolidation [with vloggers]. VloggerS PoiSed for iNflueNCe You’re going to find specialists in certain areas. Name: Tati Westbrook Name: Sam and Nicola Chapman ChaNNel: GlamLifeGuru ChaNNel: pixiwoo — Wende Zomnir, Urban decay SubSCriberS: 521,528 as of 1/7/15 SubSCriberS: 1,742,331 as of 1/7/15 Why WatCh: The 32-year-old Why WatCh: The British sisters, who produces makeup tutorials and also run a digital magazine called product reviews five times a week. Two, provide tutorials on their channel 88 percent of her viewership ranging from basic skills, recreating a is over 18. celebrity’s look and party makeup.

Name: Cassandra Bankson ChaNNel: DiamondsAndHeels14 Name: Dulce Candy Ruiz SubSCriberS: 743,320 as of 1/7/15 ChaNNel: DulceCandy87 Why WatCh: Bullied as a youth for her SubSCriberS: 1,848,756 as of 1/7/15 acne, Bankson developed a method of Why WatCh: The California-based covering it up and exposed her story beauty vlogger, who is also Too Faced’s on YouTube. Allure magazine tapped ambassador for its Better Than Sex the 22-year-old for her own show on its Mascara, provides tutorials, DIY’s and channel called Cassandra to the Rescue. her monthly favorites and must-haves.

Name: Nicole Guerriero Name: Lauren Elizabeth Luthringshausen ChaNNel: nguerriero19 ChaNNel: LoLuFullyLoaded SubSCriberS: 1,880,429 as of 1/7/15 SubSCriberS: 837,769 as of 1/7/15 Why WatCh: While her specialty is Why WatCh: The 18-year-old makeup, this 28-year-old launched a skin takes a quirky approach to product care line in December called Best Damn reviews with her wacky sense of Beauty because she believes makeup is the humor and youthful vibe. fun part, but skin care is most important.

Name: Jarmaine Santiago Name: Chloe Morello ChaNNel: JLovesMac1 ChaNNel: ChloeMorello SubSCriberS: 1,889,102 as of 1/7/15 SubSCriberS: 883,830 as of 1/7/15 Why WatCh: This beauty vlogger has Why WatCh: Based in Australia, Morello little to no filter. Her product reviews started her YouTube channel in 2012 always combine a corny element of with beauty how to’s while working as a humor and a bit of TMI regarding a makeup consultant at a crematorium. private issue.

Name: Tiffany D Name: Wayne Goss ChaNNel: MakeupByTiffanyD ChaNNel: gossmakeupartist SubSCriberS: 904,109 as of 1/7/15 SubSCriberS: 1,889,577 as of 1/7/15 Why WatCh: The southern Why WatCh: The male beauty vlogger belle from Atlanta, who is currently posts videos that range from step-by- pregnant, spills her favorites on step beauty tutorials of how to get makeup, fashion, home and décor a celebrity’s look to revealing why a with or without a baby in tow. product just won’t cut it.

Source: L2 Inc. WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 7 WWD.COM

because they feel more accessible, and the connec- tion is that much stronger.” Even Proactiv, which is known for reaching con- Dunhill Launching Icon sumers through a celebrity voice, is modernizing its perspective by tapping into YouTube influenc- oud wood, an oris-leather accord, vetiver and oak moss. ers. Hosted by vlogger Eva Gutowski, Proactiv’s By The result is designed to be fizzy, invigorating — and #BeYouTV, which launched in December, consists SAMANTHA ultramasculine. of tips and tricks. CONTI Benaim said the vetiver-leather combination was im- “[Vloggers] create a level of engagement, authen- mediately attractive to him, and that he wanted to make ...Richemont. ticity and empathy that you can’t really get by put- LONDON — the leather note soft and supple —like suede. He added Icon is a significant launch for Dunhill, and the company is hoping it

Cracking the Credibility Code ting a TV ad up,” admitted Jay Sung, chief marketing Dunhill has a spice via pink pepper, juniper and cardamom, and added will mark the dawn of a new era: Cardinali has spent the past year rational- officer at Guthy Renker, who added that the Proactiv new fragrance “a shot of neroli,” bergamot and mandarin to freshen it up. izing old licensing agreements, and has whittled those partnerships down videos would live on the brand’s and vlogger’s chan- on tap that aims Icon’s metallic cylindrical bottle was designed by to Inter Parfums, Inc., and a yet-to-be-announced eyewear licensee. nel. “Plus, a lot of people struggling with acne are to encapsulate the Mark Eisen and is covered in Dunhill’s traditional en- One of the goals with Icon is to “regain luxury territory for Dunhill,” he teens and Millenials that are engaging with YouTube motoring heritage of gine-turned pattern. said. Jean Madar, chairman and ceo of the u.S.-based Inter Parfums, said at an extraordinary rate.” the brand — and the tastes of its creative director John Ray. Annie Leibovitz shot the fragrance ads, which will the partners also wanted customers to feel like they were buying an object “Vloggers are evolving, and they understand Set to launch Monday at Harrods and Dunhill bou- appear in outdoor, airport and digital outlets as well as as well as a fragrance, which is why the heavy glass and metal bottle has

what their strength of their relationship is based tiques and roll out globally later this year, the new scent major men’s magazines. They star Andrew Cooper, who an “artisanal” design. Icon will cost $120 for a 100 ml. bottle and $80 for a on,” said Terry Rieser, cofounder of digital agency is called Icon, and was developed by master perfumer also features in the brand’s main campaign. 50 ml. bottle. Tag Creative. “They are becoming much more dis- Carlos Benaim of International Flavors & Fragrances According to industry sources, the company is spend- cretionary in terms of who they partner with and Inc., together with Ray. The fragrance will be stocked at ing more than $10 million on advertising and marketing, why they partner with them.” stores including Selfridges and Harvey Nichols. and retail sales of Icon are expected to hit at least $50 For Phan, she said she has to like a product’s Ray said that before leaving his home in the morn- million in the first year. Dunhill and its licensee Inter texture to push’’ it on her channel. “I’m not trying to ing, he tends to splash on some vetiver, a leathery scent, Parfums both declined to comment on the numbers. sell it to my viewers,” Phan said. “I have to fall in and then some lavender, “to calm me back down.” He While Icon may be the first fragrance to debut under love with it first and then it sells itself.” called Icon “quite personal,” “a mood-changer,” and “up the new management team headed by Ray and chief ex- Who can blame her? With Phan’s busy schedule, to speed with where the brand wants to go.” ecutive officer Fabrizio Cardinali, it’s part of a long line she has to carefully choose what she supports. Benaim added to Ray’s personal cocktail, creating a of fragrances dating back to the Thirties from the men’s On Dec. 8 at 10 a.m. Phan sat in the L’Oréal offices juice with top notes of Italian bergamot, neroli absolute wear brand owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont. to do an interview. Eight hours earlier she filmed and black pepper. Middle notes contain cardamom and “We are starting a new life with Icon and we think it’s her New Year’s video. After that, she washed all lavender de Provence while base notes feature smoky going to be a game changer,” said Cardinali. the glitter off her face, changed clothes and hopped into a car to head to LAX. She arrived right before the plane took off and when she landed drove to the L’Oréal offices to call WWD for the interview. The 27-year-old beauty vlogger gets four to five hours of sleep per night. Stella & Dot Gets Second Skin Mota, for her part, didn’t have time for a phone call. signs of aging and inflammation. The 12 items in the line By MOLLY PRIOR are free of parabens, sulfates, phthalates, propylene gly- col, hydroquinone, chemical sunscreens and synthetic JESSICA HERRIN, founder and chief executive officer of fragrances and colors. The product regimen, which is There will definitely be Stella & Dot, will soon focus her attention above the neck. designed to last 60 days, is said to deliver measurable The company, best known for statement necklaces results within a month. consolidation [with vloggers]. sold through direct sales “stylists,” plans to widen its Priced from $26 to $88, some of the items include ...and high-touch,” she said. scope with the introduction of a skin-care regimen called Luminous Nutrient Rich Cleansing Balm, Hydralift “We are a people company first and foremost, but we You’re going to find Ever. The effort will stand alone as a separate selling op- Moisture Injection Cream and Glow Body Renewal Oil. also consider ourselves a product and technology company. portunity, complete with its own starter kit for sales rep- The company will begin a beta launch of Ever in What powers a brand five years from now will not be what resentatives, or “specialists.” February with plans for a full e-commerce rollout in the grows it in another five years.” specialists in certain areas. Herrin, who launched her accessories company as second quarter. Luxe Jewels in 2004, began thinking about adding skin Herrin is reluctant to call her enterprise — which gen- — Wende Zomnir, Urban decay care as another pillar of the business several years ago. erates more than $200 million — a direct-selling company. “It coincided with me being in my late 30s. I was on a Instead, she sees it as a home-based social selling business. “It’s natural for [vloggers] to shop, test and re- personal journey for skin care that was naturally derived Herrin, who previously cofounded WeddingChannel.com, view tons of product for our channel,” wrote Mota but effective,” said Herrin, who is now 42. She sought to set out to challenge the conventional notion of direct sell- via e-mail. “So I really like it when a company un- create a luxurious skin-care line with a natural bent that ing when she launched Stella & Dot. “Jewelry was a large derstands that and doesn’t expect [vloggers] to be was backed by clinical results. Her move into the beauty market that needed reinvention. I wanted to redefine it completely exclusive to one brand.” realm was aided by the addition of Leslie Blodgett, ex- and create social selling. This could be so much bigger if Karen Robinovitz, chief creative officer of Digital ecutive chairman of Bare Escentuals, who joined Stella you combine high-tech and high-touch,” she said. Ever is Brand Architects, an agency that represents 80 con- & Dot’s board in 2011. the third category pillar in Herrin’s business. She launched tent creators across categories including beauty, fash- The result is a formula that relies on LSR10, a mag- Keep Collective, a charm bracelet concept, in August. Its e- ion and food among others, noted, “[Authentic vlog- nolia-based bioactive complex designed to reduce the commerce launch is planned for later this month. ...Alberto-Culver brands in 2011, for $3.7 billion in cash, garnering Nexxus gers] will never take something just for money,” giving as well as the TRESemmé, VO5, St. Ives and Simple brands. At the time the the example of her client Keiko Lynn, a supporter of announcement was made in September 2010, Alberto-Culver was reportedly animal rights. “[Lynn] has walked away from incred- doing $1.6 billion in sales yearly. ibly lucrative projects because it went against her Added to unilever’s own Dove, Clear and Sunsilk, the Alberto-Culver personal ethos.” ’’ Boswell Overhauls Nexxus Brand brands helped catapult unilever to the world’s leading company in hair con- According to Robinovitz, when a brand is con- ditioning, the company said as the acquisition was announced. Boswell noted sidering a partnership with a vlogger it is always for damaged hair on mass market counters later this that while the brand moved into mass-market distribution in 2006, it didn’t based on the scope of work such as the size of audi- By JuLIE NAuGHTON month. The products will range in price from $11.99 to lose its prestige. “Converting that brand, which was and is quite premium, to ence or what it takes for the content creation pro- $18.99 and are distributed among eight lines: ProMend, more available distribution in mass channels, while keeping the premium- cess to happen. NEXXuS IS GETTING a face-lift — and for Gina HydraLight, Youth Renewal, Emergencée, Oil Infinite, ness, price points and salon attributes, was quite an accomplishment,” she While the prices range for enlisting a vlogger, Boswell, executive vice president of personal care at Color Assure, Diametress and Therappe & Humectress. said. Robinovitz added that it can cost $2,500 for one unilever, revamping the hair care brand is an extension The collection boasts 15 patents, Boswell said. Arguably Instagram post and can go up to $250,000 for an ad- of a project she began several years ago at a different the hero ingredient of the lineup, said Boswell, is a …for the future. vertising campaign or brand ambassador role. company. protein-rich caviar complex intended to rehydrate We believe it addresses a major consumer opportunity and gap in the mar- But to join the beauty vlogger realm, the bar- “Nexxus has always had a special place in my heart, hair deep within. As well, it is the brand’s first serum ket. We think our brand proposition is unique because we are the only ones rier to entry is pretty low; all they need is a video because I was able to witness the trajectory of the brand featuring concentrated conditioning oil encapsulated with the scale, the heritage and the credibility to say, ‘This is premium salon camera and products. The new generation of vlog- and it has such a rich heritage,” said Boswell, who in pearls and suspended in a water-based rebuilding with nature’s best ingredients, infused with science, to get you the most beau- gers feel entitled, and some of their agents haven’t joined unilever in July 2011. In her prior role as presi- serum, rich in nutrients and protein, Boswell added; the tiful, fluid hair.’ And that proposition is entirely unique to our brand and it’s caught on to the proper etiquette. “I thought dent of global brands at Alberto-Culver from 2008 to serum can be found in the brand’s revamped Therappe unique to the market.” [vloggers] operated like any other member of 2011, Boswell had worked on the Nexxus brand, which & Humectress line. It is a big and important piece of our business right now, and it will be an the media with respect to editorial, but the very Alberto-Culver had acquired in 2005. unilever acquired Rob Candelino, vice president of marketing and even bigger, more strategic piece going forward.” first vlogger I reached out to wanted an obscene several Alberto-Culver brands in 2011. general manager of hair care for unilever, noted that Boswell noted that the multiple ad images for the revamp focus on the idea amount of money ($5,000) so I kindly declined, Now, the Nexxus brand — which was founded by Jheri the company will be “advertising this brand in a more of recapturing the fluidity of hair. “You’re going to see a lot more of that in the and I got a nasty e-mail from their manager,” ex- and Stephen Redding in 1979 as a salon-only offering — comprehensive way starting next month,” which will in- 360-degree brand marketing communications,” she said. Candelino character- plained a brand representative, who requested is being re-branded as Nexxus New York Salon Care in clude print advertising in March books, a comprehen- ized the campaign as “a dramatic departure from earlier brand communica- anonymity. “After the whole thing, the vlogger what Boswell dubs “a dramatic update of product lines, sive digital campaign. “We’re making this commitment tions did what some people think is the most insulting from new formulations with lots of actives to new pack- to reignite and re-establish this brand because we be- thing you can do to anybody nowadays — she un- aging.” As it has been since 2006, Nexxus will continue lieve it is unbelievably well-positioned for the future.” …other than this one. followed us on Twitter.” to be sold in about 15,500 mass-market doors in the u.S., As part of the revamp, Nexxus will also open a salon Boswell dubbed Jheri Redding “the godfather of hair,” noting that he cre- “The amount of content that’s created on the including Walgreens, CVS and Target, and is being ex- at 39 North Moore in Manhattan’s TriBeCa neighbor- ated the first modern conditioner with Humectress, as well as incorporating Internet doubles practically every year, and the panded globally. A March launch is planned for the u.K. hood this spring. The 3,500-square-foot space will have ingredients such as keratin and panthenol into shampoos. A prolific creator, power [of beauty vlogging] continues to be distrib- “Nexxus is a major component of our brand portfo- seven styling chairs, four coloring chairs and five wash- he founded Jheri Redding Products in 1956, Redken in 1960 and Jhirmack in uted to that small number at the top,” said Mullen, lio, and is one of our two premium-positioned hair-care ing chairs, and will be overseen by Kevin Mancuso, 1968 before founding Nexxus. “We couldn’t be happier to deliver against the who added that there is a huge drop off in quality lines, along with Toni & Guy, and very important to us. the brand’s creative director. “The premise of this is original promise of the brand yet again in 2015,” concluded Boswell. in beauty YouTube videos. We think it will really solidify our positioning as the an- that the Nexxus New York salon will be the physical But Robinovitz put it best, “Content, point of view chor in salon care at mass, which is a growing category,” interpretation of the Nexxus philosophy, which is unit- and talent will never go away. The format to which it Boswell said. While she declined to discuss numbers, ing science, nature and technology not just through the comes to life will evolve and change, but [this busi- IRI estimated Nexxus sales at $72 million in the 12 design, but through services,” Boswell said. “It will be ness] is not about being a beauty blogger or vlogger, months ended Nov. 30, 2014. open to the public in March.” However, Boswell noted its about galvanizing an audience and connecting Boswell noted that the revamp will put 49 newly re- firmly that the brand isn’t looking to go back into salons with them in a very authentic, truthful way.” formulated stock keeping units and five new products other than this one. Source: L2 Inc. 8 WWD friday, january 16, 2015

THE RACE FOR THE ASMES: There MeMo pad was another list of award nominees released Thursday. Target Exiting Canada While the Oscars may have generated more buzz, the magazine editors who cover all those Hollywood celebrities were instead {Continued from page one} have looked fine on Google Maps when looking fixated on The American Society of Magazine Editors list of finalists in nearly $1 billion in losses before interest, at a screen in Minneapolis, but on the ground in for the National Magazine Awards. Winners will be unveiled on taxes, depreciation and amortization in fiscal 2012 Canada were either off prime commuting routes, February 2 at a ceremony held in New York at the Marriott Marquis and 2013 from its Canadian operations as sales in second-tier neighborhoods, or hard to resupply in Times Square. The show will also include a lifetime achievement last year reached $1.32 billion. efficiently,” observed Craig Johnson, president of award presented to Time photojournalist James Nachtwey. Target expects to record $5.4 billion in pretax Customer Growth Partners. “Target bought the lo- This year, 66 publications were nominated in 24 categories, losses attributed to the move in the current fourth cations from HBC whose long suit is real estate, and 29 magazines earned multiple nominations, once again led quarter and another $275 million in the upcoming while Target’s strength is, or was, fashion mer- by New York with 10. Bon Appétit and The New Yorker both fiscal year, driven by the writedown of Target’s in- chandising, so Target ended up overpaying for a received six nominations, followed by The Atlantic, GQ and vestment in Canada. Target’s cash costs for store clo- portfolio of B if not C locations.” Virginia Quarterly Review, each with four. Magazines with three sures and related expenses for exiting the business Johnson also said Target had a poor under- nominations include The Atavist, Bloomberg Businessweek, will be $500 million to $600 million, the majority of standing of Canadian consumers. “They are even Cosmopolitan, Grantland, Harper’s Bazaar, Sunset and Texas which will be incurred in fiscal 2015. “Within our thriftier/more price-sensitive than we are and are Monthly. Publications with two nominations were Garden & Gun, application for protection, we’ve asked the court to used to Canadian versions of products, e.g., milk The Hollywood Reporter, Matter, National Geographic, Nautilus, approve a voluntary contribution to fund an employ- in gallon bags versus cartons or plastic bottles.” The New Republic, The New York Times Magazine, Politico, ee trust to provide a minimum of 16 weeks of sever- Johnson also cited Target’s lack of “favorite” prod- Popular Mechanics, Runner’s World, Slate, T (The New York ance pay for each employee,” Cornell said. The fund ucts carried in the U.S. stores, chronic supply Times’ style magazine), Time, Vogue and Wired. will contain 70 million Canadian dollars, or about chain and importing issues and a lack of senior First-time finalists included California Sunday Magazine $59 million at current exchange. management from Canada. for Design; Grantland for Video, Feature Writing and Columns Cornell said the company & Commentary; Kinfolk for Photography; Matter for Public undertook a massive effort in Interest and Feature Photography; Nautilus for General Canada to increase sales dur- Excellence and Website; Politico for General Excellence and ing the holiday period. “We en- Website; Powder for Multimedia, and Refinery29 for Web site. tered the holiday with stock at There weren’t too many surprises in the General Interest an all-time high,” he said. “We category, which included finalists GQ, The New York Times added 15,000 products and en- Magazine, The New Yorker, Politico and Wired. Service and sured that our pricing was ap- lifestyle magazine finalists were Cosmopolitan, Glamour, Martha propriate. We had a compelling Stewart Living, Parents and Sunset, while nominees for style Canadian holiday marketing and design included Bon Appétit; Garden & Gun, Harper’s campaign. The harsh reality is Bazaar, T Magazine and Vogue. that sales and profits continued Bon Appétit, The California Sunday Magazine, Harper’s to fall short during the holiday Bazaar, New York and Wired will fight it out for the design season. We did not see the step category, and for photography, Bon Appétit, GQ, Harper’s change in performance.” Bazaar, Kinfolk and National Geographic will vie for the Ellie. Cornell said Target consid- W Magazine, which is usually nominated for the category, was ered alternative scenarios such left out entirely for any Ellie finalist consideration. Sister as closing the worst-perform- publication Vanity Fair wasn’t snubbed, but it also was only ing stores and shrinking the nominated for one award: its June essay penned by Monica Canadian footprint. But he came Lewinsky called “Shame and Survival.” to the conclusion that operating Web site finalists, which include online-only magazines, in Canada would require addi- were The Atlantic, Nautilus, New York, Politico and Refinery29. tional investment capital in sup- Cosmopolitan, which won the personal service Ellie last year ply chain and technology to en- for its guide to contraception, is nominated again, this time for able Target to sell online there. its guide to sexually transmitted infections or “STIs.” Other “We don’t believe we could nominees include Real Simple for its guide to “taking control become a successful Canadian of the laundry,” O, The Oprah Magazine for caring for aging retailer without being a lead- parents, New York for its novice guide to pot and Men’s Journal Target is closing all 133 of its stores in Canada. ing onmichannel retailer,” Cornell for its essay on when to say “no” to your doctor. Target Corp. has committed to a $175 million said. “Given these investments, we’re unable Although that may be a good category, the big award, debtor-in-possession credit facility to finance the to map out a scenario that would allow Target magazine of the year, which went to Fast Company last year, is Canadian operation through the liquidation process. Canada to reach [acceptable] profit and cash flow the one all magazine types want to win. This year, nominees Cornell, who held ceo positions at PepsiCo until 2021. We were facing the decision of devot- include Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Better Homes and Gardens, The and Sam’s Club, has been scrutinizing everything ing billions of dollars without the realistic pros- Hollywood Reporter and New York. — AlEXAndrA stEiGrAd about Target’s business, from merchandise assort- pect of an appropriate return on the investment.” ments to operations, to service and digital capa- The announcement of Target’s exit from ANOTHER RETURN bilities. Since taking the reins of the mass retailer, Canada was welcome news to Wall Street, which ENGAGEMENT: British actor Kit he’s increased the company’s focus on apparel had been pushing for such a move. The company’s Harington is the face of Jimmy and home, baby, kids and wellness, while taking a stock rose 1.96 percent to $75.79 on the New York Choo’s men’s campaign for a step back from food and has also made investment Stock Exchange midday on Thursday. second season, appearing in in technology a priority. Matt Nemer, a retail analyst at Wells Fargo, a series of futuristic-looking Target’s missteps in Canada included pricing, said the retreat from Canada “will allow the com- images shot by Steven Klein merchandise assortment, supply chain and real pany to focus on executing the already-in-progress for the luxury accessories estate. Experts said Target, which is known for the turnaround in the United States. It is also an indi- label’s spring campaign. The style quotient of its apparel and home products, cation of Cornell’s leadership style, that there are images picture Harington failed to differentiate itself in Canada, where the no ‘sacred cows’ and he is willing to make tough crouching on a sleek sports merchandise was lackluster. Inventory was a prob- decisions that support shareholder value.” car’s windscreen wearing The new Jimmy Choo men’s campaign. lem with constant out-of-stocks and broken sizes Cornell described Target as being in the “early Jimmy Choo’s silver Belgravia high-top sneaker, or behind the in apparel. Canadian shoppers perceived Target’s stages of improving the U.S. performance. There’s wheel of the car’s moodily lit interior, wearing the Sloane slipper. prices as too high. “People expect 6, 7, maybe 12 a lot of opportunity to reinvigorate the business The women’s images feature American model Ondria Hardin, percent higher prices because of currency, duties in the U.S. Our prioritization of signature catego- her hair styled in a platinum crop, who was shot in the same and transportation. Beyond that, people don’t want ries like apparel and home, baby and kids’ will industrial, air-hangar style setting. Harington, who is also the face to pay more,” said Antony Karabus, ceo of HRC allow us to unlock growth as we meet the needs of Jimmy Choo’s men’s fragrance, Jimmy Choo Man, is currently Advisory unit of Hilco Global, and a Canadian. of guests. We’re going to focus on localization and having a buzzy moment on both the big and small screen. He plays Karabus said he wasn’t surprised by the news personalization. We’ll continue to accelerate the Jon Snow in “Game of Thrones,” and stars in the film “Testament of that Target is shuttering its Canadian operations. expansion of City Target with stores in Boston Youth,” based on a memoir of the First World War, set for release “Target overestimated the size of the market, un- and Brooklyn in 2015, and we’ll continue to test this week. Sandra Choi, creative director of Jimmy Choo, said that derestimated the fierceness of value-set competi- and expand the Target Express format. We’ll also Harington “perfectly embodies the Jimmy Choo man,” praising tors and there were a significant number of opera- continue to look for opportunities. I’m very bull- his “cool attitude and smoldering sensuality.” Panos Yiapanis styled tional missteps with the supply chain. ish about future prospects of business in the U.S.” the campaign, while hair was by Shay Ashual and makeup by Val “There was an absolute contrast to The company said based on its sales in Garland, with Mary Howard the set designer. Nordstrom’s opening in Calgary. It’s a beautiful November and December, it expects comparable There are also short films to accompany the ads, which will store with a great assortment. They hit it on every sales in its U.S. stores to be up 3 percent in the appear on Jimmy Choo’s YouTube channel. The print campaign cylinder.” fourth quarter, better than its prior guidance for will break in the weekly magazines in February, and in the Target entered a market that was saturated a 2 percent increase. Target attributed the im- March issues of monthly fashion and style titles. — ninA JonEs with American competitors such as Wal-Mart provement to increased traffic and stronger-than- Stores Inc., Costco Inc. and Home Depot USA Inc., expected sales in the digital channel. Adjusted CIARA’S THE FOCUS: L’Uomo Vogue is starting the new year with not to mention Canadian Tire, Lowe’s Cos. Inc., earnings are now seen finishing the quarter at be- Ciara, who appears on one of the Italian magazine’s two covers for Sobeys Inc., Metro, Loblaw Cos. Inc. and Primark tween $1.43 and $1.47, about 6 cents higher than this month’s issue, out Friday. Her new single “I Bet,” from the America Corp. Karabus said all will likely vie for original guidance. upcoming album “Jackie,” debuted Thursday on the publication’s locations, some of which could be broken up into “There was a slowdown in the first part of Web site, where readers will also find additional footage from smaller spaces for specialty stores. At least half December, but we’re very pleased with the the cover shoot by Francesco Carrozzini in Los Angeles, as well as an of the locations could be taken up quickly, includ- growth in traffic and sales leading up to and after interview with the Grammy-winning American performer. ing those that Target built. However, many of the Christmas and we’ve seen continued strength Emerging actor Dane DeHaan is on L’Uomo Vogue’s second cover, in former Zellers sites that Target occupied were old going into January. We’re very pleased with the keeping with the issue’s overarching theme: a tribute to established and not in good locations. momentum and progress we’re making.” celebrities as well as rising stars in the arts and entertainment “The real estate was a bunch of cats and dogs, — With contributions from world, such as Norman Reedus, Sota Fukushi, Ed Skrein, Lorenzo Richelmy reflecting many subpar Zellers locations that may Arnold J. KArr And dAvid moin and Xander Parish, to name a few. — cYnthiA mArtEns 2.5x7 (right)

WWD Friday, January 16, 2015 9 WWD.COM Richemont Shares Slide, Fashion scoops

More Challenges Ahead ON THE MEND: Ralph Toledano, elected released last fall in the United States, president of the Fédération Française United Kingdom and India. {Continued from page one} Macau, the company said. de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des “Paris has changed, the system Since autumn, the once-powerful euro Richemont is not alone: Earlier this Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode has changed, everything has been and pound have been losing ground against week, Burberry Group said sales growth last July, is to sit out the upcoming transformed,” he said of the current the dollar, and until Thursday morning, the in Hong Kong, which generates 10 per- men’s and couture shows in Paris. ready-to-wear landscape. “For the Swiss franc had fallen to 98 cents. cent of group revenue and is its highest- The affable head of French fashion’s system to function, the participants On Thursday, shortly after Richemont margin market, went negative in the third governing body, who is also president have to be international, production announced its results, the Swiss National quarter due to the political protests. of the fashion division of Puig, is has to be international. It’s clear that

Bank unexpectedly unpegged the coun- Last week, Chinese jewelry giant Chow recuperating from a bad fall over we no longer can or should be 100 try’s currency from the euro, and sent Tai Fook said its same-store sales dropped the holidays. Reached by phone on percent French anymore.” interest rates into negative territory. The 18 percent in the third quarter amid poor Thursday, an upbeat Toledano said, Grumbach singled out the country’s interest rate is now minus 0.75. consumer sentiment and a “relatively “I won’t make the shows next week, emergence of Chinese designers Following the move, the Swiss franc im- weak” luxury market in Hong Kong. but I’m working hard every day to be such as Yiqing Yin and Yang Li on the mediately gained ground against the dol- Luxury retailers across the region back in March.” The women’s international stage. “We lar, but is still broadly trading on a par with have also been hurt by an ongoing anti- ready-to-wear shows are For more can’t do without China, but it, and rose 30 percent against the euro. graft campaign that has curtailed spend- scheduled for March 3 to 11 scoops, see they can’t do without us, Shares in the Swiss Performance ing on expensive gifts such as watches, in the French capital. that much is clear,” he said. Index, an important barometer for the jewelry and fancy alcohol. — miles socha WWD.com. He noted that Yin, who Swiss Exchange, plummeted 8.6 percent Richemont said European sales ben- was born in Beijing and to 8,284.45. Shares of Swiss bellwether efitted from strong domestic demand THE LONG VIEW: Didier Grumbach moved to France at the age Swatch dropped 16.4 percent to 382.30’’ and a return of visitors to the main tour- may have stepped away from the of four, would likely be granted the Swiss francs, or $374.98, on the exchange. ist destinations were also helped by fa- day-to-day running of the Fédération haute couture label next year if she The move will likely be crippling vorable exchange rates. Sales in Europe Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à- requests it. — Joelle DiDerich for the Swiss exports, and already had were up 10 percent at reported rates and Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs Swatch chief executive Nick Hayek tear- 9 percent at constant ones. de Mode, but he still has plenty to say INSIDE TRACK: Getting insights into Louis ing out his hair. “Words fail me. Today’s Sales in the Americas region rose 14 about the Paris fashion scene. Vuitton’s fall 2015 men’s collection is SNB action is a tsunami; for the export percent at reported rates and 7 percent On Wednesday night, Grumbach — only a few clicks and flicks away. Kim industry and for tourism, and finally for at constant ones, although Richemont who remains honorary president of the Jones, Louis Vuitton’s men’s artistic the entire country,” he told WWD. noted that the pace of sales has slowed federation — regaled a crowd gathered director, is taking over the French Like Swatch, Richemont is based in compared with the first six months. at the French Fashion Institute with brand’s official Instagram account from Switzerland, makes many of its prod- In the Americas, sales of jewelry and a lecture about the origins of haute today and he’ll post his inspirations ucts there, and exports them to mar- from the Net-a-porter Group boosted couture and his own storied career and document preparations ahead of kets worldwide. sales, and Richemont added that jew- in fashion, starting with his family’s Vuitton’s show on Jan. 22. “A strong Swiss franc has histori- elry retail sales overall were an engine clothing manufacturing company C. The globe-trotting designer has cally been bad for behind overall Mendès. Many of the anecdotes can be close to 29,000 followers on Instagram, Richemont’s profit growth in the found in Grumbach’s book, “Histoires with recent snaps documenting trips and loss account,” three-month pe- de la Mode,” originally published in to Cape Town and Jaipur, to mention said Citi in a report The return of Mr. riod. Retail sales 1993. Grumbach signed copies of an a few. Some 3.8 million people follow on Thursday fol- came from new updated English translation, titled Louis Vuitton on Instagram. lowing the central Rupert to the... store openings, “History of International Fashion,” — m.s. bank’s decision. jewelry sales and “Richemont re- Net-a-porter. ports in euros and company after his In a report fol- hedges its euro lowing the re- exposure versus sabbatical could be an sults, the team at its main trading Bernstein Research currencies, in par- accelerating factor for said the headwinds ticular the dol- for Richemont are lar, the yen and “short-term” and some Asian cur- the M&A strategy of the group should rencies. However, see some improve- (about) 50 percent the group.” ment in the sec- of its COGS (cost ond half, due to of goods sold) are — johann rupert, increased foreign in Swiss Francs exchange benefits, (mainly the watch chairman, richemont product restocking business) which is and a new line of un-hedged versus the euro. We also esti- Cartier watches that could be presented mate that 25 to 30 percent of total operat- next week at the Geneva watch fair, SIHH. ing expenses are in Swiss francs,” said The bank put an outperform recom- the Citi report, adding that Richemont’s mendation on the stock “given its supe- gross margins could suffer in the full rior earnings growth prospects driven by year and into the next one. its exposure to the fast growing jewelry Shortly before the close of trading segment, outstanding brand portfolio on Thursday, Richemont’s shares were and pricing power, and strong cash posi- down 15.7 percent to 74.80 Swiss francs, tion to perform accretive acquisitions. or $73.36, while Swatch had fallen 16.5 ’’The bank said it believes Richemont percent to 73.75 Swiss francs, or $72.34. will dip into its substantial cash pile of Richemont’s third quarter was lacklus- 4.9 billion euros, or $5.77 billion at cur- ter also by its own standards: The company rent exchange, to make acquisitions. said trading in the quarter was below the “The return of Mr. Rupert to the helm first six months of the year. In the nine- of the company after his sabbatical could month period, sales growth was 3 percent at be an accelerating factor for the M&A actual rates and 2 percent at constant ones. strategy of the group,” said the bank, re- In November, Richemont had al- ferring to Johann Rupert, the company’s ready reported a sales decline of 1 founder and chairman, who returned in percent in the prior month due to pro- September after taking a year off. democracy protests in Hong Kong that That said, Rupert has been outspoken turned violent, scaring luxury shoppers in the past with regard to future acqui- — including Mainland Chinese — away sitions. In 2013, before leaving on sab- from the region. batical, he told analysts: “The problem is Sales in the Asia Pacific region were that when you become a certain size, you down 5 percent at reported rates, and can even buy a little gem — but it just 12 percent at constant ones. In a short doesn’t rock the needle. And then the trading statement, Richemont pointed problem is that you buy the wrong things to Hong Kong and Macau as particularly for the wrong reasons. Our return on in- difficult areas, and also cited an unfavor- vestment is so much higher by backing able basis of comparison with the corre- our own colleagues,” he said, referring sponding period last year. to the company’s brands. Watch sales declined 4 percent at “M&A at this stage is not going to move constant rates and were flat at reported the needle. Nothing on the horizon is going ones, reflecting caution on the part of to be of any importance for you folks in the Richemont’s wholesale partners and a room, so don’t worry about it,” he said. lower performance of some retail loca- — With contributions from tions, particularly in Hong Kong and Joelle DiDerich 10 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015

her name. I was jumping up and down in my hotel room. She’s so Kristen deserving.” Stewart Aiming for Moore Director Wash and Kate AT A TUESDAY night screening budget and lacked the marketing Westmoreland was equally FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Bosworth of “Still Alice” in New York, muscle to campaign for awards effusive about his Julianne Moore was visibly consideration as vigorously as leading lady. “I think WWD.com/eye. exuberant. She had reason to some of Moore’s competitors. Julie was absolutely at be. By then, she was the closest When it made its debut in the top of her game and thing to a lock in the race Toronto, distribution wasn’t even everybody knew that from day for one of the best actress guaranteed. “We all sat on our one. The other night, Julianne nominations to be revealed hands thinking, ‘Is somebody said, ‘Can you believe it?’ I Thursday morning by the going to pick this up? I hope said, ‘This isn’t a dream, this Academy Awards. Two so,’” Moore continued. is really happening,’ ” he said, days earlier, the four- Eventually, Sony Pictures quoting “Rosemary’s Baby.” time Oscar nominee Classics did and has “As a fi lmmaker, you live in a had picked up a seen it cruise the hard- fantasy world. In this occasion, Golden Globe for best fought awards season reality has really upped fantasy. actress in a drama, on a wave of goodwill, It’s actually better than what we the culmination which was refl ected dreamed of.” of months of in the turnout at the For Moore, the role of Alice acclaim following Cinema Society, Dom Howland is the result of four the premiere Pérignon and Montblanc months of interviewing doctors Sting and Ebon of the movie screening — Sting and and patients to better channel Moss-Bachrach in September Trudie Styler, Paul Sorvino, the experience of her character. at the Toronto Bridget Moynahan, Prabal “I think it’s very unusual International Film Gurung and Gilles Mendel that you see a disease like Festival. were among this portrayed completely “We are so lucky, those present to cheer on subjectively,” she said. “This so lucky,” Moore the actress. was really about what it feels said, still seemingly “Listen, this is the like. It takes you through the overwhelmed by type of fi lm that’s hard to journey through this disease the fi lm’s string of make, much less be seen with the person who’s dealing good luck. by anybody,” said Kate with it.” It’s the kind of Based on a novel Bosworth, who plays one of commitment the actress has by Lisa Genova about Moore’s daughters along become famous for after intense an academic’s with Kristen Stewart. “I’m performances in such movies struggles with early so, so pleased for Julie,” as “The End of the Affair” and onset Alzheimer’s Bosworth continued, “Far From Heaven,” and it may Julianne disease, “Still Alice,” noting that she had just fi nally deliver her that Moore in which opens today skipped the Globes and elusive Oscar. On Thursday, she Alexander in New York and stayed in New York. “I got one step closer when she McQueen. Los Angeles, was was watching on TV, received her fi fth nomination.

made on a shoestring and then they called — KRISTEN TAUER NICHOLAS HUNT/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM PHOTOS BY

respective circles, the pair has and his can be a couple that’s little bit,” Carone says. not succeeded in establishing a coming in at 7. The older guests Rabin and Carone hired chef niche. Coles shuttered last May want to be around young and new David Standridge to execute after just over a year in business energy, and the younger people their vision of green-market and Bar Naná looks to be headed who are coming also want a bit of centric American fare with a toward a similar fate — Olivier the sophistication,” says Carone. focus on seasonality. Standridge Theyskens, Prabal Gurung (a The restaurant sits on the comes from Market Table, where central member of Carone’s corner of Sixth Avenue and he earned a following in his two clique) and Public School’s Dao- Downing Street, bordering the years helming the kitchen. He Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne West Village, SoHo and TriBeCa. spent six years as a sous chef once had their postshow bashes It’s fl ooded with light pouring in at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon there, but support has dwindled. from the fl oor-to-ceiling windows. prior to that. “I was looking for With Clover Cafe, the duo is “We basically wanted it to be that perfect balance of really aiming for a different scene — casual, but elegant. Everything’s delicious approachable food, but more neighborhood-y restaurant, sort of elevated,” says Carone, a little more refi ned,” Standridge less party spot. Though, as with who took up the reins in explains of the menu. Kyle Hotchkiss their past ventures, the pair is conceiving the design and The focus is on unexpected Carone, David relying on the support of their “energy fl ow” of the triangular lighter fare — from lobster Standridge and well-cultivated social networks. space’s interiors. “To me it’s this accentuated with coconut oil David Rabin. “My friends are going out two perfect combination of a little bit and kohlrabi to reimagining times a week. Kyle’s friends go West Village, a little bit London risotto with lentil to a quinoa out four to fi ve times a week,” and a little bit Fifties.” tagliatelli seasoned with beet Rabin says. “I think that’s what It also has an air of a greens, maitake and sunfl ower has really worked well, with Parisian salon — black-and- kernals. “You’re going to love Rolling in Clover how we can fi ll a room,” Carone white walls lacquered in what you’re eating here, but you’re not going to ruin your “I DON’T KNOW what, if week parties. “It’s hard because last two workouts,” says Rabin, anything, would convince me I lose people between noon and to which Carone was quick to to open a nightclub right now.” 10 at night,” he says. “I really follow up: “We have your best David Rabin is sitting felt personally that I was interests nutritionally at heart in in the sun-drenched missing a place to see the kitchen.” dining room of his new people at dinnertime.” For all of their years in the West Village restaurant, Rabin has built his business, Rabin is quick to Cafe Clover, a few days hospitality empire, admit that their formula this shy of its opening. It’s sprawling all over time around doesn’t skew too the latest from Rabin, Manhattan, on his ability differently from their previous who emerged as a major to make connections. A approaches. However, unlike nightlife player after few years ago, looking their nightclub spots, which opening Lotus in the to meet the industry’s depend on creating an air of Nineties. He lorded over next up-and-comer, he perceived exclusivity, they the Meatpacking District, reached out to his wide are trying to strike a vibe of even at one point holding network of art world familiarity with Clover Cafe. the title of president of and fashion friends. He “People walk in here and they the New York Nightlife was soon introduced to don’t realize that they’re friends Association, spending his Kyle Hotchkiss Carone. The interior of Cafe Clover. with other people in here and

administration lobbying “Literally six women STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY are like, ‘Oh I know those guys.’ I against curfews and sparring in a row said, ‘How do you not hope that’s the vibe the room has,” with irritated neighbors. These know Kyle?’” Rabin says. “We continues, sitting next to Rabin geometric patterns enclose Rabin says. “My friends are eager days, he’s spending his time had a great lunch and he’s in a corner banquette. Though the dining room, prettifi ed to come here. They’re psyched.” less nocturnally, focusing on all everyone said — he’s very Carone is as well known for his by baroque style mirrors, — K.T. The Lamb’s Club, the power smart and understated.” The social circle — well documented vintage lighting and powder Cafe Clover lunch go-to favored by Midtown pair subsequently teamed up on Instagram — he seems the blue banquettes. Each table 10 Downing Street, New York suits that he opened in 2010. on several nightlife ventures quieter, more introspective of is topped with a tiny bush of 212-675-4350, cafeclovernyc.com/ He spends his nights at The — fi rst was Cole’s, then Jimmy the two. “It’s all kind of the same clovers in beveled pots. “Clover Operating hours: Mon-Wed: Skylark, his other Midtown spot, at the James and Bar Naná. world, but my friends can come adds nutrients back to the soil 5:30-11 p.m. Thu-Sat: 5:30 p.m.- a frequent venue for fashion Despite support from their in at 10 and be a table of eight, and keeps the circle of life a midnight Sun: 5-10 p.m. WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 11 WWD.COM And The Oscar Dress Goes To... Best Actress Nominee THE RACE FOR Hollywood’s biggest doesn’t shy away from controversy, as she been predictable for several years now (she’s prize begins as nominations for the showed with the face of the Coco Mademoiselle fragrance), 87th Academy Awards were revealed her provocative Vera Wang gown the clothes themselves are not, and her I ROSAMUND PIKE, Thursday morning and now designers at the Globes. pregnancy means she’ll be in custom “Gone Girl” can get started in their own competition In the Supporting Actress creations for the rest of the season. to see who’ll get to dress the chosen category, Patricia Arquette has been eye Stone also has a knack for wearing I STYLIST: Ryan ones. In the best actress category, there wearing Escada all season, and Laura high fashion with confidence, as she Hastings were few surprises among the by-now Dern has looked lovely throughout proved with her convention-flouting familiar names, though previous Oscar as well, as has Meryl Streep. But the Lanvin jumpsuit at the Globes. Here, a I HAS WORN: winner Marion Cotillard appears to have serious showdown will be between fashion breakdown of what to expect when they walk Alexander McQueen, taken the spot that some thought would plates Keira Knightley and Emma Stone. the red carpet on Feb. 22. Thakoon, Edun and go to Jennifer Aniston, who’s received While Knightley’s array of Chanel gowns has — MARCY MEDINA Vera Wang so far a string of other nominations for the this year. indie drama “Cake.” It’s one of the best-looking bunches of actors in recent Best Supporting Actress Nominee Best Supporting Actress Nominee I LIKELY TO WEAR: memory and certainly among the most Vixenish Alexander fashion-forward. While Cotillard won’t McQueen. be building any suspense with her dress choice since she’s on the Dior payroll I (and Felicity Jones looks like she’s well EMMA STONE, I on her way to joining the house’s ranks), KEIRA “Birdman” there could still be some surprises KNIGHTLEY, I between Julianne Moore, Rosamund “The Imitation STYLIST: Pike and Reese Witherspoon. The “Wild” Game” Petra Flannery actress has lately opted for form-fitting I I dresses from a variety of American STYLIST: HAS WORN: brands — Oscar de la Renta, Michael Leith Clark Lanvin, Kors, and Calvin Klein Collection at the Giambattista I Golden Globes — but the real wild cards HAS WORN: Valli, Versace, are Moore, a favorite of designers who’ll Vera Wang at Alexander have her pick of the litter, and Pike, who 2006 Oscars; McQueen, Elie Chanel haute Saab, Valentino, couture, Erdem Thakoon and Best Actress Nominee Best Actress Nominee and Mary Calvin Klein Katrantzou this Collection. I MARION past season. COTILLARD, FOR MORE ON I LIKELY TO “Two Days, One THE OSCARS, SEE I LIKELY TO WEAR: One of Night” WEAR: The the V’s — Valli, WWD.com/eye. Madame will Versace or I STYLIST: have Chanel. Valentino. None

I HAS WORN: Jean Paul Gaultier to pick up her 2008 Oscar for “La Vie en Rose”; mainly Dior since she became one of its ambassadors. I FELICITY JONES, “The Theory of Everything” I LIKELY TO WEAR: Dior, duh. I STYLIST: Karla Welch I HAS WORN: Erdem, Alexander McQueen, Monique Lhuillier and Dior this awards season.

I LIKELY TO WEAR: Ditto for Dior.

Best Actress Nominee Best Actress Nominee REACH THE FASHION INDUSTRY’S

I REESE WITHERSPOON, TOP TALENT “Wild”

I STYLIST: Leslie Fremar I JULIANNE MOORE, “Still Alice” I HAS WORN: Oscar de la I STYLIST: Renta, Michael Leslie Fremar Kors and Calvin Klein Collection I HAS WORN: so far this year. In order of past Oscar appearances: Tom Ford I LIKELY (1998); Chanel (2000); TO WEAR: Saint Laurent (2003); An American Atelier Versace (2004). brand, perhaps WWDCAREERS.COM Peter Copping I LIKELY TO WEAR: PRINT & ONLINE PACKAGES AVAILABLE Tom Ford. You always for Oscar Contact Christen Cosmas, WWD Classifi ed/Careers de la Renta? remember your fi rst. at 212.630.3937 or [email protected] MARION COTILLARD PHOTO BY EVAN FALK; ALL OTHERS BY TYLER BOYE ALL OTHERS BY FALK; EVAN MARION COTILLARD PHOTO BY WWD_011615_Boglioli_254x352.indd 1 09/01/15 17.11 WWDSECTION II MILESTONES

Dsquared2 at 20 Marking two decades of irreverent Italian fashion through a Canadian lens.

I THE DAN AND DEAN SECRET I FASHION AND FROLICS THROUGH THE YEARS I PLUGGING THE GREAT WHITE NORTH I THE BUSINESS, THE LICENSING AND MORE

Dean and Dan Caten at their spring 2012 Dsquared2 show fi nale. 2 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Two Brothers, One Brand, 20 Years The Catens and Dsquared2 through the years. By Eleonora Molesti

1991 2007 I Launch of Potion for men I Dan and Dean Caten arrive in I The first Dsquared2 men’s fragrance. Italy from Ontario, Canada. fragrance, He Wood, launches. I Women’s footwear makes 2012 1995 its debut. I Dsquared2 opens stores I The I The first Dsquared2 flagship in Tokyo; Nanjing, China, Catens opens in Milan. and Nicosia, Cyprus. present I Launch of Potion for their first women fragrance. men’s wear I The brand licenses silk collection house ISA to produce under the and distribute underwear Dsquared2 and swimwear for men label. and women. Potion I The company renews 1996 launched its eyewear license with I Debut in 2011. Marcolin through 2017. of the first Men’s wear men’s 2013 made its debut The Milan fashion show I Dsquared2 signs a five-year in 1996. fl agship. The Los Angeles store opened in 2014. in Milan, the licensing deal with Brave Kid “Homesick for children’s wear and Andrea Canada” collection, for fall 1996. Montelpare for kids’ footwear. International Canadian Designer 2008 of the Year award and Outstanding 2000 I The company licenses Marcolin Achievement award at the first I The brothers design the for eyewear. Brave Kid produces the Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards. looks for Madonna’s video I The first women’s brand’s children’s wear. I Opening of Dsquared2 boutiques “Don’t Tell Me” and 2001 fragrance, She Wood, in Barvikha, near Moscow; “Drowned World” tour. launches. Chongqing, China; the Greek island I They sign a license and I Opening of Mykonos; Porto Cervo on the island distribution agreement Dsquared2 boutiques of Sardinia; Salonicco, Greece; with Staff International, in Capri, Italy; Kiev, Baku, Azerbaijan; Los Angeles, and which is controlled by Ukraine; Istanbul; and New York’s SoHo. Renzo Rosso’s OTB Srl. Hong Kong. I Launch of the men’s fragrance Wild.

2002 2015 I Dsquared2 presents I The brand marks its 20th its first women’s capsule anniversary. collection in Milan. Eyewear 2003 was licensed I Debut of the first Madonna in to Marcolin complete women’s ready- Dsquared2. in 2008. to-wear collection, “Star 2009 D2 Fast Facts 24/07,” with a show in Milan. I Dsquared2 boutiques open in 150: Outfi ts designed for Madonna I The Catens design costumes for Cannes, France; Dubai; Singapore; and her dancers for the 2001 Christina Aguilera’s world tour. and Hong Kong (Kowloon). “Drowned World” tour and for the I They receive the Italian fashion award I The Catens are awarded the music video “Don’t Tell Me.” La Kore for best emerging designers. Canada Honour and unveil their star on Canada’s Walk of Fame in 17,000: Number of timber chocks 2004 Toronto, which celebrates Canadian used to create the Milan fl agship. The Catens design an exclusive excellence in music, sport, film, TV, commemorative sneaker for the science, innovation, and literary, 10: Looks created for the opening Olympic Games in Athens. visual and performing arts. and closing ceremonies of the 2010 I Dsquared2 designs the Olympic Winter Games in Vancouver. 2006 Barcelona Football Club’s official I The brothers are awarded the 20th off-field uniforms. 984 feet: The distance each of annual juried Spanish fashion award the Caten brothers ran during the Aguja de Oro (“Golden Needle”). 2010 Olympic torch relay. I Juventus Football Club of Turin I The brothers design costumes for the selects Dsquared2 to design its Opening and Closing Ceremonies of the 100: Number of seats at the Ceresio official off-field uniforms. Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Games. 7 restaurant. I Dsquared2 inks a licensing deal I They design costumes for rock band with ICR-ITF Group for fragrances. Tokio Hotel’s “Welcome to Humanoid 240: Types of wine available at City” tour. Ceresio 7. I Dsquared2 shops open in Monte 5: Number of honors and awards Carlo, Monaco, and received for their work in Canada. Shanghai. Ceresio 7 rooftop I The company bar in Milan. 1,000: Guests at the Wild party renews its licensing to celebrate the opening of agreement with Dsquared2’s Mykonos boutique in Staff International I Boutiques in Abu Dhabi; August. for 17 years. Hangzhou and Shanghai in China; I Dsquared2 moves and St. Moritz, Switzerland. 140: Relatives invited to the Catens’ into the Via Ceresio I The Ceresio 7 bar and restaurant, Christmas party at Casa Loma. building in Milan. located in the penthouse of the Dsquared2 building, opens. 26 years: The duration of the license The Paris 2011 with Staff International. shop opened I Shops open in 2014 — E.M. Beijing and Paris. I The Catens are honored with the

4 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Hip to Be Dsquared2

These brothers love to tell a story, and they’re anything but grim. By Alessandra Turra

THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY OF their Dsquared2 fashion brand isn’t the only thing Dean and Dan Caten are celebrating: the designers turned 50 last December. While some might be nervous about hitting the half-century

mark, for the Canadian twins, it was just another reason to throw a couple of stellar parties — a private dinner with music by star DJ David Morales at the Chalet Etoile, in Cervinia, a popular ski resort in the Italian Alps, and an extrav-

aganza at Toronto’s Casa Loma, an early 20th-century Gothic Revival mansion. This is the sort of thing that de- fi nes the Caten twins — the kind of glossy, happy, somewhat wild lifestyle they both live and sell to the world through their glamorous’’ fashion col- lections. There is nothing accidental about it: This is the path the identical twins, raised in the Willowdale suburb of Toronto, intentionally picked for themselves when they moved to Italy in 1991 to seek their fortune on the European fashion scene. Dean and Dan are the youngest of nine children born to an English moth- er and an Italian father, whose deci- sion to shorten the family name from Catenacci to Caten mirrored that of scores of immigrants before him. “He knows me, I know him. We He knows me, I know him. We understand each other. — DAN CATEN, ABOUT HIS BROTHER DEAN

understand each other,” said Dan, explaining the natural affinity he shares with his brother. The twins don’t just work together, sharing the same desk in their hyper-chic offi ce in the Dsquared2 building on Milan’s Via Ceresio; they also live together in London, hang out together, go on vaca- tion together: they are very much the idiomatic two peas in a pod. They have no specifi’’ c roles, either, when it comes to designing a collec- tion, approving a business plan or de- vising a new campaign. “We both feel if something works or not,” Dean said. The twins left Willowdale at 19 to attend Parsons The New School for Design in New York, but dropped out after only a semester and went back to Canada, where they joined fashion label Ports International as junior de- signers. They spent six years there, eventually becoming head designers. At that point, they decided to make the big jump, and, returning to their Italian roots, they crossed the ocean and settled in Milan, where they began developing their own fashion label in Dean and Dan Caten in their Milan offi ce.

{Continued on page 6} PANSINI PAOLA PHOTO BY

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The “Charlie’s Angels” spring 2009 show.

some ferocious criticism. In February 2012, ICR-ITF for fragrances and Isa for un- for instance, the designers sent out models derwear and swimwear. Hip to Be Dsquared2’’ in chic and preppy Sixties-inspired outfi ts Concurrent with Milan men’s fashion — with cigarettes. Model and actor Rick week, which Dsquared2 will open with {Continued from page 4} The tone of Dsquared2’s future shows Genest — aka Zombie Boy, famous for the a special anniversary-themed show a garage on Via Burlamacchi, in the was set. More than a runway, more than tattoos completely covering his body — was tonight at the Hangar Bicocca exhibi- city’s Porta Romana district. an occasion to present new collections, also smoking in the front row. tion space, the label will also christen “When it was too cold there, we the Caten brothers’ shows are always “We did apologize,” said Dan. “That a store in the city’s Porta Nuova district. used to move into the kitchen of our large-scale events or quasi-theme par- was too much.” “This is going to be a concept store apartment,” Dan said. ties, where the inspiration running At any rate, taking a walk on the where we can give visibility to a cer- Strongly believing in the innovative through the lineup is evident to all from wild side is part of Dsquared2’s phi- tain kind of product,” Dan said. “It’s power of their project, in 1995 they pre- the moment one sets foot in the venue. losophy, rooted, say the designers, in a a different concept for us. We like to sented their fi rst men’s collection, and “We always want to make our mes- very specifi c set of values: “Sexy, cool, work on new things. It’s exciting, it’s the following season they were already sage complete. We always try to make relaxed, different, accidentally chic different — it’s a turning point.” showing the “Homesick Canada” collec- our show look like a story,” said Dan, and individual,” said Dean, describing tion on the Milanese men’s catwalks. noting that once they choose a theme, the label’s aesthetic. In contrast to Milan’s core sartorial he and his brother build on it the way “And contrasting,” Dan added. At work in the studio. classicism, Dsquared2 collections of- “Having a contrast with the world is re- fered a new, luxurious take on denim ally Dsquared2.” and casualwear, with a fresh, irrever- This strong sense of individuality is ent vibe that stemmed from the label’s Our father never let one of the key elements that made the two cheerful, eccentric designers. brand especially successful among mu- “Our father never let us wear jeans. us wear jeans. He sicians. Over the years, the twins have He used to say, ‘Poor people wear dressed quite a cadre of international jeans, and you are not poor,’ ” Dean artists, including Madonna, Christina said. “Denim, for us, is an element that used to say, ‘Poor Aguilera, Michael Bublé, the Tokio Hotel blends things together.” band and Rihanna, who walked the Just when their popularity was people wear jeans, brand’s spring 2008 show, among others. starting to grow, Dean and Dan met a While the Caten twins’ fun and un- man who was to have a huge impact and you are not poor.’ conventional take on glamour is still on the future of their business: Renzo a hallmark of the brand’s collections, Rosso. In 2002, the Caten twins inked a — DEAN CATEN they have also evolved, losing the evi- licensing agreement with Rosso’s Staff dent street connotations of their early International, which still manufactures years and moving toward a sophisti- the brand’s collections. The entrepre- a director builds on a movie concept, cated, luxurious style. For example, neur gave the designers the fi nancial trying to fi nd the most appropriate lo- Dsquared2 is making a big push in and productive support to launch the cation, soundtrack and props. men’s tailoring, offering different suit Dsquared2 women’s line in 2003. The designers have re-created a and tuxedo fi ts, festively named after The Catens made their women’s wide range of cinematic sets over the jet-set destinations such as Miami, debut during the Milan women’s fash- seasons. For example, in September Capri, London, Paris and more. ion week with the “Star 24/7” fall col- 2011, they celebrated the influence The fashion house is also extend- lection, presented with a spectacular of music festivals — particularly ing its brand identity through a rapidly show in which models, wearing hoods, Glastonbury — on the fashion indus- growing collection of bags and shoes, denim pants and minidresses (all in- try, setting up a festival tent with a a children’s wear line produced by fused with a va-va-voom sexy attitude), stage and a camper van, while models Rosso’s Brave Kid and a range of li- emerged from a big pink airplane be- walked on a catwalk caked’’ with mud. censes managed by high-end manufac- fore striding down the catwalk. This irreverent approach also earned turers, including Marcolin for eyewear,

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Backstage, fall 2014. Fall 2008

It’s a Romp Fashion frolics through the years.

Spring Fall 2006 Fall 2000 2003

Spring 2013 Spring 2001 PHOTO BY R. TECCHIO R. PHOTO BY

Backstage, fall 2014.

Fall 2001 Fall 1997

10 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

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Fall 2008 PHOTO BY R. TECCHIO R. PHOTO BY

Spring 2014 Fall 2000

Fall 2004 Spring 2015

Spring 2000

Fall 1999

Spring 2015

Fall 2014 Spring 2014 Congratulates on its 20 thAnniversary 12 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

The company is poised to expand its retail penetration and grow revenues Time for Takeoff around the world. By Luisa Zargani THERE’S NO LOOKING back for the units. In the U.S., however, the priority is Caten twins. …St. Moritz… to open directly operated stores. Dsquared2 marks 20 years in busi- The fi rst American venue opened in ness in 2015, but for founders, owners Beverly Hills on North Rodeo Drive in and creative directors Dean and Dan September. A New York store, which Caten, it’s “eyes forward” as they view opened in December at the corner of this year as a pivotal turning point for Spring Street and Broadway in SoHo, the brand. is the largest, at 6,467 square feet. A “Practice makes perfect. We’ve built 2,000-square-foot door at Miami’s Bal the foundations, everything is in place Harbor Shops is due to be unveiled and now we’re starting to grow. We know early this year as well. where we want to be,” said Dean Caten, A store will also open in London by during a joint interview with his twin at the end of February. their Ceresio 7 restaurant in Milan. Wholesale still represents 80 per- “It’s her time to go and run,” cent of business, but the designers are added Dan, speaking of a fi gurative working on growing the retail network Dsquared2 customer. to convey the brand’s “full message,” The brand grew from one simple which they believe will also help de- premise — that men’s fashion week velop their wholesale revenues. Men’s was “a bore.” So they set out to fi ll the wear accounts for 55 percent of sales, category with clothes that were any- and women’s wear makes up the rest. thing but boring — and fi ll it they did, Maccarrone said online is the brand’s as they grew their company to reach best store and credited the Catens for revenues in 2014 of 205 million euros, Shops in Tokyo… …Mykonos… their own involvement in the channel. or about $242 million at current ex- The Dsquared2 online store is oper- change, up 10 percent compared with ated by Yoox Group and the partnership the previous year. The brand now in- agreement was renewed in May for an- cludes comprehensive men’s, wom- other fi ve years. The collaboration with en’s and children’s lines, completed the Caten brothers started in 2009, sell- by handbags and footwear collections ing on Yoox’s Thecorner.com and moving made in-house, and a successful licens- onto the brand’s own e-commerce site. ing business, including eyewear, inner- Upon the renewal, Yoox founder and wear and fragrance agreements, plus a ceo Federico Marchetti said Dsquared2 network of 33 stores and 600 points of is one of the group’s “top stores in terms sale around the world. of revenues, and the brand has one of To put things in perspective, sales the highest online penetrations on its in 2001 stood at 3 million euros, or $3.7 total sales. It’s a benchmark for us.” million, noted chief executive offi cer Asked to explain why the Dsquared2 Gianfranco Maccarrone. The company is site is so successful online, Marchetti forging full steam ahead as the executive said, “Their product and target custom- expects a double-digit growth in 2015. er are in line [fi tting the Internet] but While the designers convey a free- this would not be enough. They have a spirited image and a playful attitude, clear managerial online strategy that they “have a very important vision of is well communicated within the com- the numbers,” said Maccarrone. “They pany, a well-executed management of are easy to work with, they like their the store and the designers are actively …Milan… business and they know their business.” ...and Los Angeles. engaged. They have fun with it, and the To be sure, the affable brothers bris- store refl ects their brand.” tled at the suggestion that design was traordinary lucidity. They’re very much mentation, they “remain faithful to He said there is an ambitious fi ve- their main focus. “There are those days in contact with their customers, and their style and DNA. Hats off to them year plan, with hopes of a triple-digit we have to talk numbers — they are not know how those tastes and expectations for their extraordinary consistency.” growth of this store. our favorite days, but we do,” said Dean. evolve — and they follow that evolution.” The executive noted that, while the Maccarrone said that, off line, “We are not money-driven. If we Minelli said Staff International, market is operating a “ferocious selec- Europe is the biggest market, account- don’t like it, we don’t do it,” added Dan owned by Renzo Rosso’s OTB Srl, has tion,” Dsquared2 wholesale clients are ing for 60 percent of sales, while the of their decision-making. grown together with Dsquared2 and giving the brand “more space — we U.S. is the company’s main online Ubaldo Minelli, ceo of Staff that the “profi table collaboration” is haven’t expanded our distribution, but driver, representing 24 percent of International, which has produced one of the longest in the industry, as it is much more penetrated.” revenues. Offl ine, the U.S. accounts and distributed the brand since 2001, the license was renewed in 2010 until Minelli highlighted how the companies for 5 percent of sales. After opening noted that the designers “have a pre- 2027. Underscoring their “extraordi- have worked on distribution “step-by-step stores in Dubai in 2009 and Abu Dhabi cise knowledge of their consumer target. nary talent,” Minelli said that, while and by priority.” Dsquared2 is broaden- in 2013, there are plans for units in They have very clear ideas and an ex- driven by a strong desire for experi- ing its retail network, also via franchised Kuwait and Qatar in 2015.

are real, contemporary clothes that people wear when they ‘Papi’ Renzo Refl ects leave their houses, for day and night, for many hours and in “MAMMA MIA, how interesting!” To be sure, Rosso’s rela- the cool places. I adore them.” In his signature informal tionship with the designers Asked if he’d consider taking and easygoing manner, this is runs deeper than most. “We a stake in Dsquared2, Rosso, what Renzo Rosso exclaimed don’t feel like their licensees, who has built a fashion pole when he fi rst saw Dean and but rather as part of a family. under OTB that comprises, Dan Caten’s designs. We have an excellent rapport in addition to Diesel, brands “I was in Antwerp and I professionally, but we are also ranging from Marni to Martin was struck by their creativity, friends, which is a rarity,” ex- Margiela, said that, “obviously, started watching them and fol- plained the entrepreneur. Case to become their partner would be a dream for me. But we do lowed their work. By coinci- in point: the designers call Dan and Dean Caten fl ank Renzo Rosso. dence, they were looking for Rosso “papi,” the affectionate have a long contract. We respect someone to produce their col- Italian term for “daddy.” In each other and we know each lections,” he recalled. turn, he calls the twins “fi glio- turity over the years and their yourself. You are your own ther- other very well, it’s two-way. These initial steps led to a letti belli” (“my cute boys”). “incredible professionalism” as mometer — no need for market “We are doing well together fruitful and lengthy collabora- They take vacations to- the company expands around research,” he contended. and we are building our busi- tion. First inked in 2001, the li- gether and Rosso said recur- the world, also leveraging a Rosso touted the design- nesses together,” said Rosso, cense between Dsquared2 and ring holiday stints include “a deep knowledge of their cus- ers’ “modern” looks, which noting that the Dsquared2 Rosso’s manufacturing arm weekend in Ibiza and an eve- tomers. “They themselves are he believes epitomize “luxury business totals more “than 150 Staff International, under the ning in Mykonos.” their own customers, the same casual wear — well-made, not million euros [$186 million] for entrepreneur’s OTB umbrella, While the Catens retain their as I was with Diesel — Diesel garish, in good taste — which Staff International. We see ex- was renewed in 2010 for anoth- image of “joyful kids,” Rosso was me. There is nothing bet- makes you feel different and ceptional sell out.” er 17 years. underscored their growing ma- ter than when the product is for good, but not ridiculous. These — L.Z.

14 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

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Fall 2011’s Pioneer Cold Mountain show. Hockey Horror theme for fall 2010.

Our Home and Native Land

participating in the Olympic Torch SHOW THEMES The Catens are Canadians Relay on Feb. 9, the duo decked out Dsquared2 shows are never just through and through. such northern notables as Michael about the clothes; each season, the By Cynthia Martens Bublé, Bryan Adams and Nelly Furtado. designers devise a new theme to en- Last February at the Fairmont tertain their guests, and Canada has Royal York hotel in Toronto, Dean been at the heart of the message on CANADA IS MORE than a land of ice and Dan Caten received the Canadian more than one occasion. and snow, red maple leaves and unfail- Arts and Fashion Award’s prizes for For their fall 2004 men’s and wom- ingly polite people — it’s also Dan and “International Canadian Designer en’s lineups, the designers worked the Dean Caten’s home turf, and a continu- of the Year” and “Outstanding “Great White North” theme, also used ous source of inspiration for the de- Achievement.” Canadian supermodel in that season’s advertising. Models — signers, who grew up in the Willowdale Coco Rocha, who won “Model of the some carrying dogs — walked down neighborhood of Toronto. Year,” collected her prize in a long, the catwalk in furry ranger hats and “I defi nitely think Canada’s a big white Dsquared2 dress in double wool red-and-black checked coats, with a infl uence for us,” mused Dan. “It’s our with asymmetrical shoulders. backdrop of pine trees and snow. little bit of individuality inside [the] More recently, the designers un- fashion industry, so we kind of milk it, PACKAGING veiled a “Hockey Horror” show for and we work it, and it’s ours…We like When the Caten brothers teamed up men’s fall 2010, with models in ath- to wave our fl ag whenever possible.” with licensing partner ICR-ITF on letic jersey-like shirts decorated with Dean agreed, noting that he and their first fragrance, one element skulls and maple leaves, and “Pioneer his brother are “very proud” of hav- was a given: wood. The aptly named Cold Mountain” shows for both the ing helped place Canada on the high- Michael Bublé in Dsquared2. men’s He Wood eau de toilette, which men’s and women’s fall 2011 collec- fashion map. launched in 2007, not only made use tions, with models striding forth from From suiting up homegrown ce- of woodsy notes in the juice — it also an icy backdrop in dark hats, long lebrities to running with the Olympic in a foggy homestead, surrounded by encased the glass perfume bottle in a gloves and plaid wraps. torch in Vancouver, here’s a look at horses and a bevy of scantily clad men wooden frame. all the ways the Dsquared2 twins carrying lassoes and pistols. The idea for the fl acon stemmed have sung “O Canada.” Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott were partly from a bottle of maple syrup behind the camera for the brand’s the designers spotted on sale at RETAIL spring 2010 campaign, which the de- Toronto’s international airport. In their first Milan flagship, which signers called “Camping.” Against a In 2008, the women’s eau de par- opened on Via Verri in 2007, the Caten vivid blue sky, models Daria Werbowy, fum She Wood followed, also featur- brothers opted for a lodge-like decor Arthur Sales, Andre Bentzer, Kyle ing a piece of wood along the top that combined logs from old-growth Ledeboer were shown hanging out of the glass bottle. trees with maple leaves, moose antlers, by a pristine lake, with a rowboat an imaginary forest, glowing fireplace, and cooler — presumably beer- A CERTAIN CELEBRITY 39-foot suede bench and Champagne fi lled — in tow. While various Canadian stars bar. In all, 17,000 timber chocks were have been spotted in Dsquared2, manually stacked to create a store HONORS & AWARDS one has a special relationship showcase. The designers’ love for with the brand’s design- Subsequent flagships in Paris, Canada has been pub- ers: Grammy and Juno Tokyo, St. Moritz, Mykonos and Los licly reciprocated award-winning singer, Angeles closely mirrored the Milan over the years, via a songwriter and actor boutique concept, although each also plethora of honors Michael Bublé. incorporated more local elements to and awards. Bublé clicked the design. For instance, while the St. Fashion Group International with the designers Moritz store featured a rustic look ap- recognized Dean and Dan Caten Coco at the 2010 Vancouver The Catens receive propriate to its mountainous location, for their accomplishments Rocha in Winter Olympics, and the fol- their star on Canada’s the Mykonos counterpart drew on the in fashion on April 17, Dsquared2 lowing April, he called on them Walk of Fame. seaside spirit of the Greek islands. 2008, during the Night of Stars at the 2014 for wardrobe assistance for his Gala at Toronto’s The Carlu Canadian Buenos Aires wedding to Luisana ADVERTISING event space. Arts and Lopilato. The duo dressed Bublé THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE HOME Shot by Steven Klein, Dsquared2’s fall On Sept. 14, 2009, the de- Fashion in a “Hollywood Tuxedo” from their To celebrate Christmas at home and 2004 advertising campaign featured signers received a star on Awards. classic collection, with a black silk the 50 candles on their birthday cake, Naomi Campbell and a posse of hunks Canada’s Walk of Fame, a dis- jacket and satin peak lapel, closed in December the Caten twins threw in an explicit series of comic-book tinction shared with the likes with a single button, and pants with a party evocative of their childhood style images, titled “The Great White of Ryan Reynolds, Céline a lateral black satin stripe. The shirt, yuletides of yore. North.” The campaign took consumers Dion and James Cameron, in white popeline, was matched with Approximately 140 of the design- on an outdoorsy romp, with not-so-sub- among many others. a black bow tie and nickel and black ers’ relatives descended on Toronto’s tle captions like “Bang” and “Is that Vancouver’s Winter leather cuff links. In a personal touch, Casa Loma — an early-20th-century wood hard enough to chop?” Olympics committee the designers stitched their best wish- Gothic Revival mansion — for a cel- For spring 2006, the wilderness named the brothers es inside the jacket. ebratory dinner made with Italian theme returned in the form of sexy “headline talent cos- The singer again turned to the ingredients specially fl own in for the cowgirl Carmen Kass, the star of the tume designers” for the twins in 2013, when he needed a look occasion. The designers made sure “Dean and Dan’s Ranch” campaign event’s opening and for the cover of his album “To Be to include their paternal grandpar- shot by Mikael Jansson. The blonde closing ceremonies in Loved,” and he donned Dsquared2 ents’ names, Arcangela and Pietro model was shown lounging around February 2010. After during his world tour the same year. Catenacci, on the invitations.

16 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES It All Adds Up Licensing is a small but important part of the overall business. By Cynthia Martens

LICENSED PRODUCTS in the fash- Greece and Russia. Martone said he ion world distill a brand’s essence, sees “many areas to tackle” for ex- and the range of items spawned by Snowboards are pansion: the brand’s scents are al- Dsquared2 is no exception. Backed by produced by Rough... ready available in Canada, but ITF salacious, jocular campaigns starring would also like to take on the U.S. hot young things in varying degrees and South America, and “improve our of undress, Dsquared2’s eyewear, fra- position in the duty-free sector.” grances, intimates and yes, even snow- Two years after signing their deal boards, provide consumers with an- with ICR-ITF, in 2008 the Caten other “way to belong to the company,” brothers signed a five-year licens- said Dean Caten. ing agreement with eyewear giant They’re also “more accessible as far Marcolin Group for the production as price point,” said Dan Caten, add- and distribution of their fi rst men’s ing: “Eyewear and fragrances are al- and women’s frames. ways the two fi rst things that are easy “Eyewear was our missing link and for someone with more of a budget” to we feel it’s important because a pair approach in high fashion. of glasses can make a distinctive state- Fragrance, eyewear and underwear ment and pull a look together,” Dan licenses are a relatively small part of told WWD at the time. The deal was Dsquared2 retail sales — the company extended for another fi ve years in 2012. says around 5 percent of the total — Dsquared2 “has a special place in our with selective distribution. portfolio and in our heart, for its fresh- Fragrances came fi rst, when the duo ness and its way of never being banal,” signed a 12-year licensing deal with said Marcolin ceo Giovanni Zoppas. Italian manufacturer ICR-ITF in 2006. He attributed the brand’s distinc- Roberto Martone, president and tive identity and international appeal chief executive offi cer of ICR and vice to its mix of elegance, edginess, mod- president of distribution arm ITF, said ern colors and vintage references. The he and his staff spent a year-and-a-half fi rst sunglasses bowed in 2009, and developing the fi rst Dsquared2 men’s prescription frames soon followed. scent alongside the designers. Shot by Steven Meisel, a provocative “The decision to start with a men’s advertising campaign for the original fragrance came from the fact that batch of sunglasses portrayed Naomi [Dsquared2’s] fashion also began with Campbell and Linda Evangelista men’s wear,” Martone noted. The re- tackling each other while sporting sult, He Wood, channeled the design- Seventies-style shades. ers’ love of the Canadian outdoors through its woodsy notes and packag- the fi nal selection — they want to step percent of Dsquared2’s perfume sales, ...eyewear by Marcolin... ing; the eau de toilette hit the fi rst in at the beginning.” Martone said. shelves in September 2007 and remains Pivotal launches after He Wood An unrelated new women’s pillar is the brand’s bestseller. include She Wood (2008), Potion for also on the agenda for next October. “I have to say that the inspiration men (2011), Potion for women (2012), Today, Dsquared2 fragrances ac- for each perfume really has always Intense He Wood (2014) and Wild count for about 38 percent of ITF’s started with Dean and Dan,” said (2014), a men’s juice introduced with turnover of 125 million euros ($147 Martone, adding that the brothers a racy campaign by Steven Klein that million at current exchange), Martone viewed fragrance as another outlet for drew explicit parallels between mus- noted, and about 65 percent of that creative expression. “We work very cular model Silvester Ruck and an un- stems from men’s scents, versus 35 closely with them, they want to be in- tamed stallion. Although distribution, percent from women’s. The fragranc- volved in every stage of the process, which began in October, will only be es are distributed at an estimated from the outset…They’re really active, complete later this year, the fragrance 8,000 to 9,000 international doors, they want to participate, smell the fra- is already doing well and could eventu- and key markets are Italy, Germany, grances. They don’t limit themselves to ally account for anywhere from 25 to 40 Austria, the U.K., the Netherlands,

...and fragrances by ICR-ITF. Eyewear prices vary but generally average around 200 euros ($236). Fragrances and eyewear may be the designers’ best-known licenses, but the brothers have dabbled in a range of other product categories, too. In 2012, they signed a three-year deal with silk specialist ISA for the production and distribution of Dsquared2 men’s and women’s underwear and swimwear. The designers had fl irted with inti- mates nearly a decade prior, with a se- ries of in-house pieces such as men’s briefs with the words “I Love Beer” written across the front — and that ir- reverent approach remained key with ISA as partner. “Our collections have always been characterized by a strong element of seduction that stands halfway be- tween eroticism and exhibitionism,” Dean explained. And with their unabashed love of winter sports, it was inevitable that the duo would veer into athletic accesso- ries: in 2013, the Caten brothers signed a deal with Rough Snowboards for a series of boards for adults and chil- dren, at around 900 to 1,000 euros — or $1,062 to $1,180 at current exchange. DSQUARED2-254x171 New.pdf 1 08/01/15 12:16

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K 18 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES The Picture Tells the Story IRREVERENT, PROVOCATIVE, eye-catching. Gisele Bündchen in a Since the launch of the brand, fall 2005 campaign Dsquared2 has consistently gen- shot by Mert Alas and erated buzz with strong advertis- Marcus Piggott. ing campaigns that capture the label’s free-spirited soul. The fi rst to team up with the company was Steven Klein, who collaborated with Dsquared2 for four years. The American pho- tographer used his cinematic approach to shoot some of the charged images that have con- tributed to the popularity of the label. Among them, the fi rst women’s campaign for fall 2003, showing Naomi Campbell posing among a group of half-naked men in hyper-glam clothes, contrasting with the spare, decadent set. The supermodel is also the protago- nist of another signature cam- paign shot by Klein a year later that reproduced a photonovel. With the brand’s collections evolving toward a more sophisti- cated and luxurious style, in 2005 the company went black-and-white, commissioning Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott for a completely different approach. Dean and Dan Caten recreated chic Sixties’ at- mospheres in the intense images portraying Gisele Bündchen in a lady-like look. Then, Carmen Kass played a stunning, sexy cowgirl in the black-and-white shots by Mikael Jansson for spring 2006. In 2007, Dsquared2 returned to color with sensual and dramatic pictures taken by Steven Meisel, who put his stamp on the cam- paigns for the brand’s “He Wood” and “She Wood” fragrances. Naomi Campbell and In 2009, Alas and Piggott re- friends in the fall 2003 turned. Among the projects they campaign by Steven Klein. developed for the spring 2012 campaign were the colorful, re- bellious images celebrating the impact of music festivals on the fashion industry. The duo also fi lmed “Behind the Mirror,” the Carmen video for Dsquared2’s spring Kass in 2013 collection featuring the spring 2006 Caten twins both in men’s and by Mikael women’s clothing. Jansson. — ALESSANDRA TURRA

Steven Meisel’s moody spring 2007 campaign.

Alas and Piggott’s spring 2012 “music festival” campaign. A fall 2004 Steven Klein photonovel campaign. Joyce WWD Size: 10”x6.75” PDF1.3 Color: CMYK