Who's Pulling the Strings?

UNITED STATE DUNHILL REVS UP OF MIND THE LABEL’S A BUOYANT NEW SCENT, AMERICAN MARKET WAS ICON, IS SET A KEY TOPIC AT THE PITTI THE DRESS RACE IS ON TO LAUNCH IMMAGINE UOMO TRADE WITH THE OSCAR NOMINEES SET, THE FOCUS MONDAY. SHOW. PAGES 4 AND 5 TURNS TO WHO WILL WEAR WHAT. PAGE 11 PAGE 7 WWDFRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY END OF AN ERROR Target Exiting Canada, Court OKs Liquidation “I came hoping to fi nd a path By SHARON EDELSON that would allow us to continue operations in Canada,” Cornell BRIAN CORNELL CONTINUES said during a conference call with to shake things up at Target. retail analysts on Thursday. “My The retailer on Thursday de- strong preference was to develop a cided to end its money-losing plan to fulfi ll that vision. I realized business in Canada and received the solution would not be easy.” permission from a Canadian Cornell said that when he realized court to begin the liquidation the extent to which Target had process, including the appoint- disappointed Canadian consum- ment of Alvarez & Marsal Canada, ers, he decided the problems were under the Companies’ Creditors insurmountable. Target will close Arrangement Act. 133 stores, which will result in a When Cornell joined Target loss of about 17,600 jobs. Corp. as chairman and chief execu- Target’s entry into Canada tive offi cer in August, he promised began in 2011, when it acquired employees and shareholders that 220 Zellers leases from Hudson’s he would take a “good, hard look at Bay Co. for about $1.6 billion. The our business and operations in an toll on Target’s fi nancial position effort to improve performance and has continued to grow, resulting transform the company.” SEE PAGE 8 SWISS BANK SHOCK Richemont Sales Sluggish, New Challenges Ahead Richemont said in a trading By SAMANTHA CONTI update that sales at constant exchange rates were fl at at 2.94 bil- LONDON — An unexpected lion euros, or $3.68 billion, in the move by the Swiss National Bank three months to Dec. 31, and rose has added to the challenges at 4 percent at reported rates, due to Compagnie Financière Richemont. a boost from favorable foreign ex- Troubles in Hong Kong damaged change rates. BEAUTY third-quarter sales at Richemont, All fi gures have been converted one in a string of luxury companies at average exchange rates for the VLOGGERS that has fallen victim to political periods to which they refer. unrest in the region. Despite the currency boost, In addition, the Swiss National Richemont’s sales fell short of Bank’s surprising decision analysts’ projections of 1.5 percent Thursday to de-peg the Swiss franc growth at constant rates, and Citi’s from the euro could mean more projection of 2 percent growth. Who’s Pulling challenges to come. SEE PAGE 9 The Strings? A new generation of self-styled beauty vloggers is fl owing onto YouTube, inspired by the meteoric rise of pioneers like Michelle Phan. While the sweep of a golden mascara wand may attract an immense audience, it also raises some thorny issues. The traditional role of advocacy is being redefi ned — and strained — like never before. For more, see pages 6 and 7. ILLUSTRATION BY TIM ROBINSON 2 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 WWD.COM FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA IS MOVING, EFFECTIVE MONDAY, JAN. 19. DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX THE EDITORIAL STAFF’S ALL SAMPLE DELIVERIES FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. NEW MAILING ADDRESS IS SHOULD BE SENT TO 475 Fifth Avenue; New York, NY 10017. 1158 Broadway; New York, NY 10001. ON INSTAGRAM #15SECONDSWITHALEXBADIA Celebs Design Fendi for Charity which Fendi is launching at the end of this month. By LUISA ZARGANI Proceeds will be channeled to charitable organi- zations selected by each woman. Rihanna proceeds MILAN — Fendi has teamed with Rihanna, Sarah will benefi t The Clara Lionel Foundation, which Jessica Parker, Rachel Feinstein, Jourdan Dunn she founded in 2012 in honor of her grandparents, and Leandra Medine on a new charity project that and which works to improve the quality of life for will mark the official inauguration of the brand’s communities globally in the areas of health, educa- newest flagship on Madison Avenue in New York. tion, arts and culture. Parker’s designs will benefi t Fendi has asked the fi ve women to personalize The Brain Trauma Foundation, while Dunn’s are their own 3Baguette handbag — a style launched aimed at The Sickle Cell Disease Association of at the end of last year that reinterprets the Fendi America. The Man Repeller’s Medine will support accessory with a more structured shape and the FF the Ovarian Cancer Research Fund and Feinstein logo becoming a lock rather than simply a decora- has chosen to help the Naomi Berrie Diabetes tive element. Parker, Rihanna and Feinstein have Center at Columbia Presbyterian Hospital. also designed micro-baguette models. The bags will “The Fendi customer is active in different fi elds be unveiled at a cocktail party at the new store on and engaged socially,” Beccari told WWD, explain- Follow WWD for the latest from the men’s collections. Feb. 13 hosted by Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Venturini ing the diversity of the fi ve artists. “There is not Fendi and chairman and chief executive offi cer only one kind of woman and they are each excel- ON FACEBOOK Pietro Beccari. lent in their own fi eld,” he noted, underscoring the ON PINTEREST personal relationships forged with Venturini Fendi. “It’s a celebration of femininity. After all, think of Sarah Jessica the fi ve [Fendi] sisters. Karl and I are like brothers Parker shows surrounded by all these women.” off her take The executive highlighted how personal the on a Fendi project was. “They had free rein, choosing their fa- purse. vorite colors, favoring their own personal tastes. It also shows that nothing is impossible with the in- credible artisans at Fendi,” claimed Beccari. As an example, he cited Feinstein’s “work of art, similar to the Pompeii mosaics,” referring to the artist’s design, featuring different genres of fi sh. Asked to explain the ongoing success of the Baguette, he said it “is a fantastic creative outlet in its essence and is easy to adapt to different styles. It’s perfectly in line with the more personal taste that is emerging today. The uniqueness, the differ- entiation, the variations and the customization perfectly symbolize the current trend.” The new Peter Marino-designed fl agship opened at the end of November. Speaking of the opening Street style looks of the day. Popular looks from the runway. event, Beccari said “it had been a while” since the last big event in New York. “It’s a market that is greatly picking up for luxury. We are very happy with its performance and this is our homage to the relevance of this market now and in the future.” Fendi last year launched a similar charity project to mark the opening of its London fl agship col- The bags will be on display at the New York unit laborating with the likes of Tracey Emin, Gwyneth from Feb. 13 to March 13 and available for pur- Paltrow, Zaha Hadid and Jerry Hall, who custom- chase at the same time through a dedicated online ized the brand’s women’s Peekaboo handbag, raising auction site, launch3baguetteauction.fendi.com, funds for the London and Bristol-based Kids Co. Uniqlo Suppliers Cited for Factory Conditions had found discrepancies with several points in By WWD STAFF SACOM’s report regarding Pacifi c (Pan Yu) Textiles, including that the cause of a worker’s death was by TOKYO — Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. said Thursday it electrocution. It said it would continue its investi- PHOTOS BY KUBA DABROWSKI KUBA PHOTOS BY has instructed two of its Uniqlo suppliers in China gation and seek talks with SACOM for clarifi cation. GIANNONI GIOVANNI FORD BY ALL PHOTOS EXCEPT to improve factory working conditions after an in- Dongguan Tomwell Garment makes clothes for spection by the Japanese apparel retailer found Uniqlo, and Pacifi c (Pan Yu) Textiles supplies tex- several problems, including long work hours. tiles to garment factories, including Dongguan. The move came after SACOM, a Hong Kong- Neither company answered calls seeking comment. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA based advocacy group, issued a report saying that Fast Retailing also said it would take steps to @ WWD.com/social employees at Dongguan Tomwell Garment Co. Ltd. improve its monitoring system for its manufactur- and Pacifi c (Pan Yu) Textiles Holdings Ltd. were ing partners, including beefi ng up measures to TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. working excessive hours in unsafe conditions, in- check overtime hours, tracking such information as WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. cluding extremely high temperatures, poor venti- employee accidents and strikes, and introducing a COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 10. FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays lation and fl oors covered with sewage. On Monday, system to monitor textile factories that supply gar- and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two Fast Retailing responded to the report and said it ment plants. additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC.

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