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Donna Karan Celebrated the Easy-Pieces Mantra on Which Ample Knits That Covered Cozy from Nordic to Aran to Homespun, the Latter in the Mulleavy She Founded Her House

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Donna Karan Celebrated the Easy-Pieces Mantra on Which Ample Knits That Covered Cozy from Nordic to Aran to Homespun, the Latter in the Mulleavy She Founded Her House PLUS HAIDER ACKERMANN SOCIAL MEDIA CRUSH BELLE CURVES MISSING MCQUEEN CHANEL’S ICEBERG ROAD TO TRADITION WWD BYE-BYE, BRYANT PARK COLLECTIONS CARDIN’S SPACE RACE CHRISTOPHER BAILEY Inspector Gadget A Top Ten: John Galliano is RICCARDO TISCI riding high at Givenchy’s Self-Made Man Christian Dior. L’WREN SCOTT Fearlessly Chic THE TRENDS PATCHWORK FUR NORDIC TRACK BLUSH HOUR PLAID TIMES VELVET CRUSH ARMY LIVES AND MORE The Top Ten FALL ’10 Collections 0412.COL.001.Cover.a;15.indd 1 4/6/10 8:42:43 PM You Choose vote for Your favorite designer P o P u L a r vote SPONSORED bY Make your favorite designer a winner at the 2010 CFDA Fashion Awards and be entered for a chance to win tickets to a New York Fashion Week show.* The CFDA Fashion Awards are a production of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. www.cfda.com vote now on *NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. To enter and for full rules, go to www.wwd.com/popular-vote. Starts 9:00 AM EST 4/1/10 and ends 11:59 PM EST 5/28/10. Open to legal residents of the 50 United States/D.C. 18 or older, except employees of Sponsor, their immediate families and those living in the same household. Odds of winning depend on the number of entries received. Void outside the 50 PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER United States/D.C. and where prohibited. A.R.V. of prize $1,459.99: Sponsor: Condé Nast Publications. You Choose vote for Your favorite designer P o P u L a r vote SPONSORED bY Make your favorite designer a winner at the 2010 CFDA Fashion Awards and be entered for a chance to win tickets to a New York Fashion Week show.* The CFDA Fashion Awards are a production of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. www.cfda.com vote now on *NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. To enter and for full rules, go to www.wwd.com/popular-vote. Starts 9:00 AM EST 4/1/10 and ends 11:59 PM EST 5/28/10. Open to legal residents of the 50 United States/D.C. 18 or older, except employees of Sponsor, their immediate families and those living in the same household. Odds of winning depend on the number of entries received. Void outside the 50 PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER United States/D.C. and where prohibited. A.R.V. of prize $1,459.99: Sponsor: Condé Nast Publications. 10 CLASSIC MOVES Designers looked to beautiful essentials while feeding their cyber obsessions with live-streamed shows and online sales. By Bridget Foley 16 DEFINING MOMENTS Belle curves heated up runways while a giant iceberg cooled things down, the tents bid adieu to Bryant Park, Milan pushed the culture quotient and Pierre Cardin marked a milestone. 23 UP TO THE MINUTE High-level hair, from simple buns to elaborate updos, dominated the catwalks. By Julie Naughton 24 THE BAND PLAYED ON Runways roared back to life—musically speaking, that is. By Tara Bonet-Black, Scarlett Kilcooley-O’Halloran, Rachel Mascetta, Katya Foreman and Sara Miller 26 TRENDS Fall fl ew from the Fifties to military styles, velvets to plaids, nude looks to spare chic. Compiled by Antonia Sardone and Venessa Lau 40 IN THE FLASH A romp through fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Photos by Miles Ladin, Delphine Achard, Stéphane Feugère, Giovanni Giannoni, Dominique Maître and Dave Yoder 48 INSPECTOR GADGET Burberry’s Christopher Bailey successfully blends the storied house’s traditions with modern technology. By Samantha Conti 50 ROAD TO TRADITION Classic style and craftsmanship get a new spin. By Alessandra Ilari 51 GOT TWEET? From Twitter to Facebook to live-streams from the runway, designers saw the future, and they liked it. By Marc Karimzadeh and Nina Jones 52 FEARLESSLY CHIC L’Wren Scott is a DIY kind of woman. By Bridget Foley 54 THE SELF-MADE MAN Riccardo Tisci is coming into his own at the house of Givenchy. By Miles Socha 56 FREE SPIRIT Haider Ackermann does things his own way—and at his own pace. By Katya Foreman 59 THE TOP TEN Fall’s best collections oozed with sex appeal, sensational sportswear and savvy tailoring. 70 CLOSING NOTE The Onion: Viktor & Rolf peeled layers off Kristen McMenamy on the runway to stunning effect. By Joelle Diderich ON THE COVER: Christian Dior’s chic trenchcoat by John Galliano. Photo by Giovanni A corseted dress Giannoni from Marchesa. ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. APRIL 12, 2010, VOLUME 199, NO. 77. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/ CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. 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If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 0412.COL.004.TOC.a;16.indd 1 4/6/10 8:27:37 PM WWD COLLECTIONS Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 EDWARD NARDOZA, Editor in Chief PETE BORN, Executive Editor, Beauty BRIDGET FOLEY, Executive Editor JAMES FALLON, Editor RICHARD ROSEN, Managing Editor DIANNE M. POGODA, Managing Editor, Fashion/Special Reports MILES SOCHA, European Editor LISA LOCKWOOD, News Director DAVID MOIN, Senior Editor, Retail ARTHUR FRIEDMAN, Senior Editor, Special Reports ARNOLD J. KARR, Senior Editor, Financial LORNA KOSKI, Associate Editor SAMANTHA CONTI, Bureau Chief, London ALESSANDRA ILARI, Bureau Chief, Milan MARCY MEDINA, Bureau Chief, Los Angeles AMANDA KAISER, Asian Editor BOBBI QUEEN, Senior Fashion Editor JENNY B. FINE, Associate Editor EMILY HOLT, Eye Editor VALERIE SECKLER, Marketing Editor, Statistics SHARON EDELSON, Senior Editor, Specialty Retail JULIE NAUGHTON, Senior Prestige Market Beauty Editor ANDREA NAGEL, Mass Market Beauty Editor BETH KWON, Senior Fashion Features Editor MARC KARIMZADEH, Designer Sportswear Editor ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT, Senior Accessories Editor KIM FRIDAY, Senior Fashion Editor, Sportswear ANTONIA SARDONE, Senior Market Editor VANESSA LAWRENCE, Associate Eye Editor ETTA FROIO, Contributing Senior Executive Editor JOHN B. FAIRCHILD, Contributing Editor at Large WWD.COM MEN’S AMY DITULLIO, Managing Editor JEAN PALMIERI, DAVID LIPKE, Senior Editors; ALEX BADIA, Fashion Editor; Véronique Hyland (Associate Editor, Fashion); Emilie Marsh (European Correspondent), Jean Scheidnes (Men’s Designer Lauren Benet Stephenson (Associate Editor, Beauty/Lifestyle) Sportswear Editor); Brenner Thomas (Market Editor, Men’s Tailored Clothing, Outerwear); Luis Campuzano (Assistant Fashion Editor) MARKET EDITORS Accessories: Sophia Chabbott (News), Shoshanna Fischhoff (Fashion); Beauty: Matthew W. Evans, Molly Prior Furs: Bobbi Queen; Innerwear/Bodywear: Karyn Monget; Ready-to-Wear and Sportswear News: Rosemary Feitelberg, Julee Kaplan, Ross Tucker; Ready-to-Wear and Sportswear Fashion: Mayte Allende; Media: Amy Wicks, Nick Axelrod; Technology: Cate T. Corcoran; Textiles: Ross Tucker CORRESPONDENTS Milan: Luisa Zargani, Alessandra Turra (Editorial Assistant); London: Nina Jones, Louise Bartlett, Brid Costello; Los Angeles: Rachel Brown, Anne Riley-Katz, Khanh T.L. Tran, (News); New York: William Cotto; Vicki M.
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