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Al Via La Rivoluzione Con Kris Van Assche il primo quotidiano della moda e del lusso Anno XXIX n. 066 - € 0,50 Direttore ed editore Caporedattore MFmercoledì fashion 4 aprile 2018 MF fashion Paolo Panerai - Stefano RoncatoI 04.04.18 ONLINE SU MFFASHION.COM LE GALLERY FOTOGRAFICHE DELLE COLLEZIONI F-W 2018/19 KRIS VAN ASSCHE KRIS VAN BBerlutierluti aall vviaia llaa rrivoluzioneivoluzione cconon KKrisris VVanan AAsschessche IIll ddesigneresigner bbelga,elga, eexx DDior,ior, è sstatotato nnominatoominato ddirettoreirettore ccreativoreativo ddii rreadyeady ttoo wwearear e aaccessoriccessori ddelel mmarchioarchio aall ppostoosto ddii HHaideraider AAckermann,ckermann, aandandondando a ccompletareompletare llaa nnuovauova ssquadraquadra ddelel mmenswearenswear ddelel ggrupporuppo ffranceserancese LLvmhvmh DDebutteràebutterà a PParigiarigi nnelel ggennaioennaio 22019019 rosegue il movimento dei direttori creativi all’interno del gruppo Lvmh, con un focus sul menswear. Il gruppo d’Oltralpe da 42,6 miliardi di euro di ricavi nel 2017 (+13%) ha annunciato che Kris PVan Assche sarà il nuovo designer di Berluti per il ready to wear, le calzature e gli accessori. Andrà a sostituire Haider Ackermann, la cui uscita è stata comunicata venerdì, e presenterà la sua prima collezione durante la settimana della moda di Parigi dedicata al menswear di genna- continua a pag. II BLACKSTAGE di Giampietro Baudo Ecce homo! Il menswear è morto? No, certamente no. Forse stan- la collezione homme Céline by Hedi Slimane. Ma tutta to, Craig Green, e sul debutto in pedana dell’uomo di no soffrendo le fashion week al maschile minori. Forse la stagione mannish sarà punteggiata da debutti eccel- Paul Surridge per Roberto Cavalli. Anche se le sorpre- sta soffrendo a livello di vendite retail. Sicuramente lenti e rilanci blasonati. In primis il lancio dell’uomo se non sarebbero finite e si starebbe lavorando per un non sul versante creativo, considerando il fermento che di Jaquemus, ennesimo protagonista di una kermes- portare nella città dei Medici un giapponese di primo sta interessando i gruppi del lusso e le diverse maison. se parigina, in agenda dal 19 al 24 giugno, decisamente piano. Con Gosha Rubchinskiy che sta preparando un L’ultimo coup de theâtre ieri mattina con la nomina di hot. Anche Milano e Firenze, previste rispettivamen- grande evento nella sua Russia, complici i mondiali di Kris Van Assche, ex Dior homme, al timone di Berluti, te dal 16 al 19 giugno e dal 12 al 15 giugno, si stanno calcio e il suo gemellaggio con Adidas, sembrano esse- chiamato a sostituire l’uscente Haider Ackermann. muovendo in una campagna acquisti che si annun- re un po’ al palo le kermesse di Londra e di New York In realtà la primavera-estate 2019 sarà ricordata per cia interessante. Perché Cnmi-Camera nazionale della ridotte drasticamente (rispettivamente 9-11 giugno e una serie di debutti eccellenti. A partire da quello di moda italiana sta lavorando per portare un big name 9-11 luglio). Tanto che il Bfc-British fashion council Kim Jones da Dior homme e di Virgil Abloh da Louis europeo e un fashion brand americano all’ombra del- e il Cfda-Council of fashion designer of America sta- Vuitton attesi a giugno. A settembre toccherà all’uomo la Madonnina. Grandi manovre anche nel capoluogo rebbero correndo ai ripari studiando iniziative ad hoc. di Burberry targato Riccardo Tisci e alla nascita del- toscano che può già contare sull’hot name del momen- (riproduzione riservata) II MF fashion mercoledì 4 aprile 2018 Interviste Progetti Brand online Jeckerson è pronto ad per Comme des garçons aprirsi a nuovi investitori Comme des garçons lan- cerà un nuovo brand Gian Maria Argentini, ceo del marchio da 30 milioni di euro nel 2017, è aperto ad online a luglio. A rivelar- accogliere soci nel capitale. Per ringiovanire il target e crescere si punta su digital lo è stato l’amministratore Tommaso Palazzi delegato della casa di mo- e capsule, come quella con Marco Galdo, tattoo artist di Fedez. da giapponese Adrian l rilancio di Jeckerson zione dei debiti per 90 milioni di l’inaugurazione lo scorso autunno del nostro rilancio, che continue- Joffe, che ha svelato è aperto ad accogliere euro che gravavano sull’azienda. del flagship store situato al civi- rà con l’espansione internazionale. alcuni dettagli del pro- nuovi investitori», ha Il marchio bolognese di casualwe- co 1 di corso Matteotti a Milano, Stiamo infatti studiando l’apertu- getto in occasione del «Isottolineato in un’inter- ar, che dal 2008 fa capo per oltre uno spazio di 120 metri quadrati ra dei primi monomarca all’estero, party d’inaugurazione a vista a MFF il ceo Gian Maria il 98% al fondo inglese Stirling progettato dallo studio Meregalli che potranno interessare due zone, Pechino del primo Dover Argentini. «Abbiamo chiuso square capital partners, ha da- Merlo architetti associati che sia gli Stati Uniti sia l’Europa nel- street market in Cina. l’anno fiscale 2017 con ricavi per to forma concreta al suo business ha svelato il concept ispirato al- lo specifico Germania o Spagna. Come precisato dal ma- 30 milioni di euro, in linea sullo plan, mantenendo ol- Questi andranno ad affian- nager, nella progettazione scorso anno. Confermando, gra- tretutto inalterato il suo care la rete attuale di 35 del sito web è direttamen- zie alle nuove strategie, l’obiettivo organico di 180 dipen- boutique e 500 punti ven- te coinvolta la designer di toccare i 40 milioni di euro di denti circa. «Il target del dita dislocati in Italia», ha Rei Kawakubo. Poche le fatturato entro il 2020», ha pre- marchio si è ringiovani- spiegato a MFF Argentini, notizie trapelate al mo- cisato il manager, sottolineando to, puntando alla fascia ad della società. Le novi- mento sulla collezione. come dopo la ristrutturazione il d’età tra i 30 e i 45 anni», tà interesseranno anche la Quello che si sa è che sa- brand stia lavorando a un cam- ha ribadito il manager. parte prodotto, dove il pan- rà sia uomo sia donna e biamento di immagine carico di Proseguirà la strategia talone, core business del che il design sarà minima- potenzialità di guadagno per chi delle capsule collection marchio, arriverà a pesa- le. In un secondo tempo volesse investire oggi, «fondo o d’artista. «Posso anti- re il 60%, sul turnover dal sono previsti anche degli privato che sia». Il marchio è sta- cipare a MFF che per 90% precedente a favore store fisici. La notizia del to infatti interessato lo scorso anno l’autunno-inverno 2018 di un’ampliamento del- lancio coincide con i posi- da un processo di ristrutturazione lanceremo una capsu- la gamma che sarà rivolta tivi resoconti di fine anno. finanziaria, che ha visto in primo le con Marco Galdo, il La campagna Jeckerson sempre di più verso un li- Nel 2017, le vendite di piano l’ingresso nel capitale del- tatuatore di Fedez», ha festyle globale. Tra i driver Comme des garçons sono le tre banche che detenevano la svelato. Il tattoo artist si dediche- la nuova filosofia del brand, Do della crescita ci sarà anche l’inve- infatti aumentate del 30% maggior parte del passivo, Monte rà a realizzare grafiche esclusive not go gentle. «Un claim che stimento sul tema green, oltre al a 300 milioni di dollari dei paschi di Siena, Unicredit e per la toppa dell’iconico pantalone significa osare, coraggio e per- consolidamento delle tre licenze in (pari a quasi 244 milioni Ge capital (vedere MFF del 1° 5 tasche Jeckerson. Il primo step sonalità. Questo vuole essere un essere: accessori, bambino e cal- di euro al cambio di ieri). giugno 2017) e la successiva estin- del restyling del brand ha visto vero e proprio punto di partenza zature. (riproduzione riservata) segue da pag. I re alla duplice prima di Hedi Slimane da Immobiliare Céline, di cui è stato nominato direttore io 2019. «Ho sempre desiderato costruire artistico (vedere MFF del 23 gennaio). un ponte tra il savoir faire, l’heritage di una Duplice in quanto prevederà una sfila- ITALIA, REAL ESTATE maison e la mia visione essenziale della mo- ta co-ed durante la settimana della moda da», ha dichiarato Kris Van Assche nella francese dedicata alla donna, con la prima nota ufficiale e sul suo account Instagram. collezione in assoluto della maison dedica- OLTRE 11,3 MILIARDI «Antoine Arnault (chief executive officer ta all’uomo. Senza dimenticare il battesimo di Berluti, ndr) mi aveva parlato di que- ufficiale di John Ray, ex Gucci e Dunhill, Milano assorbe il 55% della domanda, secondo sto progetto e con grande entusiasmo ho da Thomas Pink dopo una prima colle- i dati Cushman & Wakefield. Nel retail, pari al abbracciato questa sfida che è perfettamen- zione test. Una squadra sempre più solida, te in sintonia con la mia visione. Voglio dunque, alla quale manca ancora la defini- 20% del totale, sale il settore high street inoltre ringraziare Bernard Arnault per zione del futuro stilistico di Emilio Pucci. la fiducia che mi ha accordato». Al mo- Tornando a Berluti, Van Assche, dopo es- immobiliare galoppa e supe- zone preferite. Per questo oltre a Roma e mento della comunicazione del suo addio sersi diplomato alla Royal academy of fine ra i valori pre crisi. Per quanto Milano, stanno crescendo anche Venezia alla direzione creativa di Dior homme arts di Antwerp, si trasferì a Parigi nel 1998 riguarda l’Italia, il 2017 è sta- e Firenze. In misura meno liquida, si stan- dopo 11 anni di militanza (vedere MFF per una internship da Yves Saint Laurent, L’to il quinto anno consecutivo a no sviluppando poi anche Torino, Genova, del 20 marzo), Lvmh aveva infatti volu- dove lavorò al fianco di Slimane sulla col- registrare un incremento dei volumi di inve- Padova, Napoli e Bari», ha spiegato a MFF to sottolineare, con una modalità insolita, lezione Rive gauche.
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