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Jeremy Renner Wears Dior Homme’S Wool Suit and Armani’S Cotton Shirt, Thom Browne’S Pocket Square

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Jeremy Renner Wears Dior Homme’S Wool Suit and Armani’S Cotton Shirt, Thom Browne’S Pocket Square FALL 2010 / SPRING 2011 FirstWWD Look THEThe NEW SUITS: Magazine SLIM SHAPES, NEUTRAL PALETTE RAF SIMONS FROMHEADLINE AVANT-GARDE TO CENTER STAGE Super Manny EMANUELGOES CHIRICO’S GLOBALHERE VISION FOR CALVIN & TOMMY ZEGNA AT 100 PLUS RETROSEXUAL REVOLUTION MISTAKES MEN MAKE LUXURY REDEFINED JAPAN’S NEXT WAVE THE J. CREW FACTOR Display untilTHE XXXXXX LOOK 00, 2006 OF $10.00 WALL STREET DENIM ON THE BEACH JEREMYSPRING RENNER The Toast of the Town 0621.MW.001.Cover.a;23.indd 1 6/7/10 10:36:57 PM FABRIC N°1 A re-edition of the 1910 original, for the modern man AN ENDURING PASSION FOR FABRIC AND INNOVATION SINCE 1910 zegna.com FABRIC N°1 A re-edition of the 1910 original, for the modern man AN ENDURING PASSION FOR FABRIC AND INNOVATION SINCE 1910 zegna.com American Style. Ame rican Made. American Style. Ame rican Made. contents IN THE KNOW 15 People, places and things—talking points from the world of Menswear. RISING IN THE EAST Five Tokyo-based designers of the moment aim to build an international presence. 18 By Amanda Kaiser LET’S BE FRANK J. Crew’s Frank Muytjens has emerged as one of the most infl uential designers in 20 men’s fashion. By Jean E. Palmieri GREED LOOKS GOOD As Gordon Gekko resurfaces in the hedge fund era, Oliver Stone’s sequel tracks 22 the evolution of Wall Street style. By Brenner Thomas ON THE GRID 24 Highlights of fall culture and commerce. By Brenner Thomas MISTAKES MEN MAKE 26 The experts weigh in on the worst blunders in men’s fashion. EDITORS’ PICKS Retro meets modern in fall’s best pieces—updated wing tips, sleek watches, 28 sunglasses and a fresh whiff of iconic fragrances. CHIRICO IN CHARGE PVH chief Manny Chirico heads up a $4.8 billion fashion giant with the Calvin Klein 32 and Tommy Hilfi ger brands in its portfolio. By David Lipke AS LUXE WOULD HAVE IT Racked by recession, the luxury market has begun to rebound, with elite brands 36 offering gentler prices. But the affl uent consumer isn’t the same. By Jean E. Palmieri ON THE COVER: Jeremy Renner wears Dior Homme’s wool suit and Armani’s cotton shirt, Thom Browne’s pocket square. Photo by Matthias Vriens-McGrath. D&G’s wool and acrylic jacket, Gucci’s cotton and silk shirt and Yigal Azrouël’s wool pants. D&G boots. PHOTO BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ PHOTO BY 6 MENSWEAR 0621.MW.006(8).TOC.a;14.indd 1 6/7/10 2:58:42 PM www.brunellocucinelli.it contentsxxxxxxxxx THE RETROSEXUAL REVOLUTION The latest incarnation of the male consumer is a throwback to traditional masculinity, but he 38 hasn’t abandoned the metrosexual’s attention to detail. By David Lipke and Brenner Thomas NATURAL SPRING 44 Designers take a youthful approach to tailored clothing for spring. TOAST OF THE TOWN Jeremy Renner won acclaim in The Hurt Locker and he’s next appearing in Ben 52 Affl eck’s The Town. So why won’t he quit his day job? By Vanessa Lawrence OUTWARD BOUND 56 Masculine, outdoorsy style with a hint of heritage. THE INFLUENCER Raf Simons, creative director at Jil Sander, refl ects on the balance between that brand’s 62 minimalist legacy and his own relentless focus on the future. By Jean Scheidnes SUMMER DREAM 64 Denim brands take inspiration from the Beach Boys and Baja. ZEGNA MASTERS A century after Ermenegildo Zegna launched a new kind of Italian textile business, his 68 grandchildren give new meaning to his global vision. By Emilie Marsh Ermenegildo Zegna’s sprawling steel and glass Milan OFF RAMP: TRAJECTORIES headquarters, built in 2007. For more on Zegna as the Tracking the vagaries of the good, the bad and the really bad. By David Lipke luxury brand celebrates its 100th anniversary, see page 68. 74 8 MENSWEAR 0621.MW.006(8).TOC.a;14.indd 2 6/7/10 3:06:06 PM Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 EDWARD NARDOZA, Editor in Chief JAMES FALLON, Editor DIANNE M. POGODA, Managing Editor, Fashion/Special Reports JOHN BIRMINGHAM, Consulting Editor MILES SOCHA, European Editor JEAN PALMIERI, Senior Editor ALEX BADIA, Fashion Editor DAVID LIPKE, Senior Editor JEAN SCHEIDNES, Designer Sportswear and Accessories Editor BRENNER THOMAS, Market Editor, Tailored Clothing, Outerwear EMILIE MARSH, European Men’s Wear Editor VANESSA LAWRENCE, Entertainment Editor LUIS CAMPUZANO, Assistant Fashion Editor CARRIE PROVENZANO, Photo Editor WWD.COM AMY DITULLIO, Managing Editor VÉRONIQUE HYLAND, Associate Editor, Fashion RACHEL STRUGATZ, Assistant Online Editor BUREAUS Milan: ALESSANDRA ILARI (Bureau Chief), Luisa Zargani, Alessandra Turra London: SAMANTHA CONTI (Bureau Chief), Nina Jones, Louise Bartlett, Brid Costello Paris: Jennifer Weil (Beauty), Laurent Folcher, Katya Foreman, Chantal Goupil, Joelle Diderich, Natasha Camilla Montrose (Web Reporter/Editor), Tokyo: AMANDA KAISER (Asian Editor), Tara Bonet-Black (Editorial Assistant, New York) Heather Evitts, Troy Goodwin, Leo Jimenez, Jemma Lee, Madison Moore, Jessica Scicchitano, Simon Sirixay, Fashion Interns LAYOUT/COPYDESK PETER SADERA, Copy Chief MAUREEN MORRISON, Deputy Copy Chief LISA KELLY, Senior Copy Editor Ben Cake, Adam Perkowsky, Copy Editors ART DEPARTMENT ANDREW FLYNN, Group Art Director ERIC PERRY, Art Director SHARON BER, AMY LOMACCHIO, Associate Art Directors Courtney Mitchell, Designer Tyler Resty, Art Assistant PHOTOGRAPHY ANITA BETHEL, Director Pasha Antonov, John Aquino, Delphine Achard, Stephano Bianchi, Talaya Centeno, George Chinsee, Thierry Chomel, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Stéphane Feugère, Giovanni Giannoni, Thomas Iannaccone, Tim Jenkins, Davide Maestri, Dominique Maître, Mauricio Miranda, Robert Mitra, Kristen Somody Whalen, Dave Yoder PHOTO Ashley Linn Martin, Lexie Moreland, Photo Coordinators CHAIRMAN & EDITORIAL DIRECTOR PATRICK MCCARTHY 10 MENSWEAR 00621.MW.010(12).Masthead.a;16.indd621.MW.010(12).Masthead.a;16.indd 1 66/7/10/7/10 22:56:17:56:17 PM alfred dunhill ltd. alfred the dunhill top coat: realised in brushed cashmere, features a beaver and mink lining for uncompromising warmth and luxury. bourdon house london, twin villas shanghai chuo-dori tokyo, prince’s building hong kong www.dunhill.com xxxxxxxxx Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 MARC BERGER, Publisher ADVERTISING KRISTIN BARONE, Executive Director, International Fashion JOEL FERTEL, Executive Director, Innerwear/Legwear/Textile PAMELA FIRESTONE, Sales Development Director HILLARY GRAHAM, Account Manager JULIA HAWKINS, Fashion Director JENNIFER MARDER, Executive Director BRETT MITCHELL, Executive Director, International Fashion SHELLY RAPOPORT, Executive Director GOMATIE SANICHAR, Office Manager REGIONAL OFFICES RON TROXELL, West Coast Director, 323-965-7285 JILL BIREN, West Coast Director, 323-965-7283 INTERNATIONAL OFFICES GUGLIELMO BAVA, International Advertising Director, 011-3902-6558-4225 OLGA KOUZNETSOVA, Account Manager, Italy, 011-3902-6558-4224 GIULIA SQUERI, Account Manager, Milan, 011-3902-6558-4236 ODILE EDA-PIERRE, Account Manager, Paris, 011-331-4451-1290 BUSINESS GROUP DEBI CHIRICHELLA, Chief Operating Officer, Fairchild Fashion Group KATHY RIESS, Executive Director of Finance & Operations, Fairchild Fashion Group ALISON SMITH, Associate Business Manager RON WILSON, Director of European Operations PUBLIC RELATIONS DAN SCHEFFY, Director of Communications ADVERTISING ASSISTANTS Michelle Busse, Jessica Casey, Nicole Gallucci, Hillary Kribben, Tina Schlissel, Joyce Graham, Pascale Rajac, Emanuela Altimani PRODUCTION GENA KELLY, Executive Director, Manufacturing & Distribution CHRIS WENGIEL, Group Production Director KEVIN HURLEY, Production Director JILL BREINER, Associate Production Manager MICHAEL WAGNER, Senior B2B Distribution Manager CONSUMER MARKETING DAN DYNAN, Executive Director JOHN CROSS, ACMD Planning and Operations JAMES ROSSI, Marketing Director RICHARD FRANZ, Circulation Sales Director SUZANNE BERARDI, Online Marketing Manager LEZA ZAMAN, Business Planning Manager TO DIAL DEPTS. DIRECT AREA CODE 212 News: 630-3500 Fashion: 630-3535 Display Advertising: 630-4600 Classified Advertising: 630-4610; Single Copy Sales: 800-289-0273; Production: 630-4710; Editorial Reprints: SCOOP Reprint Source, 949-453-4680 FAIRCHILD OFFICES LONDON WC2: Samantha Conti, 20 Shorts Garden, WC2H 9AU, 441-0171-240-0420. LOS ANGELES 90048: 6300 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 720, 323-965-7280. MILAN 20121: Piazza Cavour 2, 011-39-02-6558-4201. PARIS 75008: 9 Rue Royale, 331-4-451-1300. WASHINGTON 20036: 1050 17th St., N.W., Suite 600 202-496-4975. PRESIDENT & CEO GINA SANDERS VICE PRESIDENT, CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER WILL SCHENCK PHOTO CREDIT HERE 0012 MENSWEARSEASON xxxx 00621.MW.010(12).Masthead.b;17.indd621.MW.010(12).Masthead.b;17.indd 2 66/7/10/7/10 33:39:04:39:04 PM Los Angeles: Gianfraco Ferrè, 270 North Rodeo Drive - Neiman Marcus, 9700 Wilshire Boulevard Chicago: Neiman Marcus, 373 N.Michigan Avenue gianfrancoferre.com New York: Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Avenue a world of fashion and style cod. GA790 PEOPLE, PLACES AND THINGS—TALKING in the know POINTS FROM THE WORLD OF MENSWEAR. MODEL MINORITY THE THINGS THEY SAID The controversy about the lack of racial and body-type diversity on the “I was very surprised because what I knew of Dubai runways hasn’t permeated men’s as much as women’s. (Where is the hand- was that it was like Vegas in the desert. And my fi rst wringing about impressionable young boys?) There’s an aesthetic dichotomy question was very direct: Are you sure you want me? in men’s that has always produced more diversity on the runways, at least in Because my style is very minimalistic.” —Giorgio Armani one sense. Some designers consistently cast fragile-looking, skinny, somewhat interchangeable boys, while others reliably produce a parade of Adonis types “I think France is a place to enjoy life, and it’s where people genetically blessed with lean muscle and chiseled faces. Recently, Givenchy’s take time—and shopping and dining are two of the most Riccardo Tisci has been forging a third way.
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