TAKE A MEMO JEAN PAUL GAULTIER TALKS ABOUT HIS NEW A NEW BOOK COLLECTS BROOKLYN- EXHIBITION IN THE THE MEMOS FROM THE BOROUGH, AS WELL AS MADONNA, FILM AND LEGENDARY DIANA BOUND MORE. PAGE 3 VREELAND. PAGE 10

$500,000 CONTRIBUTION Ralph Boosts Initiative For NYC Manufacturing

By MARC KARIMZADEH

NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren has given a signifi cant boost to New York garment manufacturing. Lauren will serve as the “premier underwriter” of the new Fashion Manufacturing Initiative with WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY a $500,000 contribution from Ralph Lauren Corp. to the program, which was launched last month by WWD the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Andrew Rosen in partnership with the New York City Economic Development Corp. “I was born in New York and started my business in the Garment District here,” Lauren said. “FMI serves an important role in supporting our city, our industry and gives designers the access and oppor- tunities needed to help advance their careers while Eclectic boosting manufacturing in New York. This is some- thing I’m very proud to be a part of.” The initiative’s aim is to raise funds and create grants to help existing factories in the fi ve boroughs to update equipment, acquire new machinery and train workers, for example. Ease With the contribution, Don Baum, Ralph Lauren’s Contemporary designers are striking an senior vice president, global manufacturing and sourcing, will join FMI’s selection committee, which easy-breezy vibe for spring with loose, includes Rosen, chief executive offi cer of Theory; carefree shapes worked in a mix of cheerful CFDA ceo Steven Kolb; designer Prabal Gurung; Nanette Lepore ceo Bob Savage, and Rag & Bone de- patterns. Here, Otte’s silk top and head signer Marcus Wainwright. scarf, Trina Turk’s cotton mesh tank top and Lauren made a commitment to domestic manufac- Surf Bazaar’s cotton pants. Tory Burch belt turing last year after he received some criticism for outsourcing the manufacturing of uniforms for the bag; The 2 Bandits rings and bangles; Kevia U.S. team at the London Olympics. horn cuff; HB metal cuffs; Soludos shoes. “Ralph’s leadership gift and commitment to FMI For more, see pages 4 and 5. strengthens our efforts to bring innovation and new energy to New York City manufacturing,” Kolb said. “We hope others in the industry will join us in this important initiative.” Rosen and Kolb are continuing their outreach to raise funds for the project. The NYCEDC committed SEE PAGE 9 EBay Gets Social

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

NEW YORK — EBay is taking a cue from the social media space. The online retail giant on Tuesday rolled out a major update of its Web site, including an eBay Today homepage, during an event at Industria Studios here. The revamp has a host of features designed to har- ness social interactions, including a personalized expe- rience that allows users to mix and match products and create collections, maintain profi les and “follow” other users and curators through a feed. The initial curators include everyone from Pharrell Williams to Chris Benz. “We’re giving people the ability to collect, share and connect with the community, and that’s impor- tant because eBay is an enormous store,” said Devin Wenig, president of eBay Marketplace. The site has 500 million items for sale at any given time. “The community and tastemakers give people a fi lter through which they can look at our inventory,” Wenig said. The site has continued to expand and innovate — from updating its logo to adding inventory and intro- ducing eBay Now’s local shipping services. The next logical step was to add social functionalities. The tools give eBay the characteristics of a social network, although commerce will remain the founda- tion of the 18-year-old online marketplace. EBay can now leverage its e-tail strength, taking what social networks do best and applying that to its PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY

MODEL: LAURA HALM/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY MARCOS DIEZ FOR DIAZHAIR.COM; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR NARS COSMETICS MISUZU MIYAKE MAKEUP BY DIEZ FOR DIAZHAIR.COM; MARCOS HALM/WILHELMINA;MODEL: LAURA HAIR BY SEE PAGE 8

2 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013

North America Drags Down Coach THE BRIEFING BOX This will all come to a head next businesses and regions. By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD fall, when the first collection of “We continued to drive excel- IN TODAY’S WWD newly appointed executive creative lent growth in emerging markets NEW YORK — Coach Inc. is a director Stuart Vevers hits stores. and Europe as well as in the men’s work in progress. “ Yo u will see proof points of business and developing lifestyle The accessories·· brand is in our strategy,” said Luis, who de- categories, such as footwear,” said the midst of what it hopes is a clined to forecast when Coach’s Frankfort, who will become execu- Emmy Rossum transformation to build on what financial results would begin to tive chairman in January. in Elie Saab at has been decades of mammoth ramp up again. “We’re not going Coach said it expects the men’s the Women in growth, but it is hitting a few to call a change in trend until business, which is roughly $600 Hollywood party. bumps in the process. we see it in our North American million, to expand to about $700 For more, see page Shares of Coach fell 7.5 per- stores, so we aren’t providing any million in fiscal 2014. In three 10 and WWD.com cent to $50.10 at the end of trad- guidance. What we are seeing is years, it expects the business to hit ing Tuesday, following a less- reduced traffic, across our full- the $1 billion threshold. Footwear than-stellar first-quarter earnings price fleet especially.” is also a growing category, accord- report, in which the retailer post- For the period ended Sept. 28, ing to Francine Della Badia, presi- ed a 1.6 percent dip in income net income totaled $217.9 million, dent of North American retail. and a 0.9 percent decline in sales. or 77 cents a diluted share, com- “Footwear, which relaunched this spring in about 170 full-priced locations, doubled in penetration

We’re not going to call a change from about 4 percent to over 8 per- SARDELLA DONATO cent at higher AURs [average unit retail] reflective of the compel- in trend until we see it in our PHOTO BY ling assortments,” she said. “This category performance highlights North American stores, so we our consumers’ desire for more emotional trend-right fashion Ralph Lauren Corp. will serve as the “premier underwriter” aren’t providing any guidance. product. We are seeing strong per- of the new Fashion Manufacturing Initiative with a $500,000 formance across heels, flats and contribution to the program. Page 1 — VICTOR LUIS, COACH INC. booties. We’re focused on building our market share within the frag- EBay rolled out a revamped eBay Today homepage Tuesday, As the economy slowly battles pared with year-ago income of mented, nearly $25 billion global as well as a slew of new features that harness social back, spendthrift consumers have $221.4 million, or 77 cents a share. premium footwear category.” interactions with a personalized experience. Page 1 sought out more fashion-forward Quarterly sales slid 0.9 per- Within the handbag segment, products at an affordable price. cent to $1.15 billion compared Coach touted its Borough bag, a Jean Paul Gaultier made his second trip to Brooklyn for his For the 72-year-old brand, that with sales of $1.16 billion in the new classic square tote that comes traveling retrospective that’s opening Friday. Page 3 has translated to a loss in market year-ago quarter. Analysts ex- in three sizes, in either pebbled or share to buzzier rivals such as pected earnings per share of 76 polished calfskin leather, and in The Traub family gathered Monday at Harvard Business School Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. cents on sales of $1.19 billion. different colors. The bag is at the to unveil a fellowship honoring the late Marvin S. Traub. Page 3 “One can say we were slow to In North America, quarterly center of the brand’s latest cam- respond to the evolving competi- comparable-store sales fell 6.8 paign, featuring models Karlie Two separate industry initiatives aimed at improving tive experience here in North percent, while total revenue de- Kloss and Liu Wen, both of whom building and fire safety in Bangladesh’s garment industry are America,” said president and clined 1 percent to·· $778 million. appear in print and digital ads intensifying their efforts and expanding their reach. Page 6 chief commercial officer Victor International revenue declined 0.5 wearing head-to-toe Coach looks.

Luis, who will become chief ex- percent to $365 million from $367 Expressing that there’s much ecutive officer in January. “But million, due in part to a 2 percent work ahead for the brand, Luis Rosella Giuliani has joined True Religion Apparel Inc. as that is no longer the case.” dip in sales in Japan, which was called Coach’s battle a “multi- senior vice president of merchandising. Page 8 The incoming ceo told WWD exacerbated by a weak yen. Sales year” journey. that the coming months, through in China rose 35 percent, as comps As a result, the company ex- Diesel is set to launch a new online retail partnership in 2014, will prove momentous for increased at a “double-digit” rate. pects to deliver flat-to-low-sin- North America with multiple collaborators. Page 8 Coach as it is in the process of roll- Frankfort, who led the earn- gle-digit sales growth in constant ing out new store designs, quarterly ings call for the last time as currency. In North America, Japan Fashion Week drew mostly positive reviews from capsule ready-to-wear and acces- chairman and ceo — a post he Coach predicts its comp run rate buyers making the rounds. Page 9 sories collections and fresh mar- has held for 18 years — called to be down high-single digits for keting and advertising campaigns. out Coach’s growth in secondary the balance of fiscal 2014. Online shopping mall Lazada, which launched in Southeast Asia in 2012 selling electronics, health and beauty aids and lifestyle products, is adding a fashion element. Page 9

TJX Sets Sights on $46 Billion in Sales Alexander Vreeland discusses the new book of memos his grandmother Diana wrote at Vogue, which he edited. Page 10 term growth to lift Marmaxx’s unit projections from a range of 73 By ARNOLD J. KARR count between 2,400 and 2,600. to 74 cents a diluted share on an Saks Inc. has reached an agreement to settle seven Revenues for the Marmaxx adjusted basis from the previous shareholder lawsuits seeking class action status challenging THE TJX COS. INC. Tuesday put stores, even with the exclusion of range of between 69 and 72 cents. the retailer’s acquisition by Hudson’s Bay Co. Page 11 its expansion plans into overdrive. comparable-store growth in units Same-store sales are expected to In a meeting with investors, already operating, are expected increase 4 percent. executives at the nation’s largest to reach $23 billion, 27.8 percent Shares Tuesday rose $1.01, or Condé Nast has decided to discontinue its internship off-price chain revealed plans above the division’s projected 1.8 percent, to $58.59 after hitting program starting in 2014. Page 11 to expand the business, which sales of $18 billion during the an all-time high of $58.86 in mid- generated $25.88 billion in rev- current fiscal year. day trading. ON WWD.COM enues last year, to more than $46 HomeGoods is expected to The goals provided for inves- billion. It said, even without new expand to about 825 units, from tors and analysts on Tuesday EYE: Elle magazine and Calvin Klein Collection hosted the markets or nameplates, square 450, generating revenues of $4.5 gave the company an opportunity 20th annual Women in Hollywood event on Monday night. footage could expand 60 percent billion, up from a projected $3 to share some of the steps it’s For more, see WWD.com. in the next few years. billion this year. taken to solidify its status as an Carol Meyrowitz, chief execu- TJX’s 345 units in Canada are off-price leader. Attendees vis- tive officer, said there are cur- budgeted to finish the year with ited a TJ Maxx prototype store TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. rently no plans to bring TJX to sales of $3 billion. The company before the investor presentation WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Asia. “There’s a lot of low-hang- expects those numbers to grow and were regaled with examples COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ing fruit before we would enter to 450 and $3.6 billion, with the of how the company is reaching VOLUME 206, NO. 84. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two Asia,” she commented. lower average amount per store a out to younger customers in its additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Included in the TJX produce by-product of a focus on smaller merchandising and marketing. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, basket are substantial opportuni- markets and a degree of canni- Ernie Herrman, president of Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, ties in Europe, where TJX hopes to balization as the company grows the company, pointed out that and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver more than quadruple its business its Canadian footprint. TJX has a buying staff of more Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North to about $15 billion, evenly divided Meyrowitz noted that TJX con- than 900 with 13 offices in 10 Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. between markets it’s already in, tinues to take a “slow and steady” countries, and does business Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or such as the U.K., and those it plans approach to e-commerce, even with more than 16,000 vendors. inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine to enter, such as France, Spain and after its December acquisition of Later, anticipating a question is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. Italy. This year, its European stores Sierra Trading Post, a Cheyenne, she’s asked often, Meyrowitz You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt are expected to generate $3.5 bil- Wyo., online off-price retailer. “I told guests that, even with ex- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request lion through about 400 locations. wouldn’t look at that today as a big pansion to more than 6,000 units for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at TJX expects to expand the opportunity,” she said, pointing out now baked into its long-term www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that store count of its largest division, that the financial results discussed plan, she’s not concerned about we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at the Marmaxx unit made up of TJ Tuesday included investments for the ability of TJX to remain in a P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED Maxx and Marshalls, by about 50 e-commerce initiatives but only strong inventory position. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER percent, to about 3,000 from its small top-line benefits from them. “The market is loaded,” she UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR planned year-end count of 2,017. The company late Monday said. “The market has been load- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A TJX had previously expected long- raised its third-quarter earnings ed, and it continues to be.” SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013 3 WWD.COM

Gaultier Comes to Brooklyn FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/ The exhibition, which was pre- The exhibition touches on fashion-news. By MARC KARIMZADEH viously on display in Montreal, various aspects through its Dallas, San Francisco, Madrid, installations, from a boudoir NEW YORK — Jean Paul Rotterdam and Stockholm, will section to a room mimicking Gaultier has been to New York run in Brooklyn through Feb. 23. Amsterdam’s red-light district, many times, but only made it After New York, there are plans and another that explores the to Brooklyn once before this for London and Melbourne. influence of punk and the street trip, in the early Eighties, for a The 150-piece lineup, curated on Gaultier’s ethos, replete with very special destination. “To go by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, in- graffiti-painted walls. There is the club from ‘Saturday Night cludes Gaultier’s most iconic also ample photography material Fever,’” he said, recalling the pieces, like Madonna’s original and Gaultier childhood memen- late-Seventies Bay Ridge dis- cone-bra bustiers and bare-breast tos to round out the designer’s

cotheque where Tony Manero suspenders, and looks from his profile. For his part, Gaultier THOMAS IANNACCONE types (and, apparently, Gaultier collection inspired by Hasidic hopes visitors will “not be bored too) did the hustle. His sec- Jews in Brooklyn. There are sev- but surprised and amused, and Views of the exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum. ond outing is for far more sub- eral pieces that haven’t been ex- have a good time and fun.” PHOTOS BY stantial reasons: “The Fashion hibited before, including a glittery A major concept is the muse World of Jean Paul Gaultier: jumpsuit worn by Beyoncé, Beth and how she impacted his cre- still truly inspire me.” Like me, maybe, if there were From the Sidewalk to the Ditto’s corset and a dress modeled ative impulses, a notion he likens “That part is important and no Chanel, no Saint Laurent, no Catwalk,” the designer’s travel- by the androgynous Andrej Pejic. to the plot of the French movie we developed it in Brooklyn,” Cardin, I wouldn’t be doing the ing retrospective, is opening at “Falbalas,” one of his evergreen he said, “because I think I clothes that I do. Madonna was the Brooklyn Museum on Friday. inspirations. “If I do fashion, it’s would never have been in fash- very much ahead of her time.” Gaultier arrived here on because of ‘Falbalas,’ which is ion if there were no models. In So was Gaultier himself, ap- Saturday night for a full-week a movie from the 1940s, before I reality the clothes for me…if parently. One of the most en- media blitz, and, time permitting, was born,” he said. “It was about they are on a hangar, I don’t re- dearing items on show is Nana, the chance to familiarize himself a couturier at a Paris couture ally take to them. They have to Gaultier’s childhood teddy bear with the borough. “To be honest, house, inspired by a woman to be on somebody to be alive.” that, at age six, he customized I don’t know Brooklyn,” he said give him the idea for a collection. Madonna perhaps holds the with a cone-like bra made from on Monday afternoon at the mu- He made a beautiful collection most special place for Gaultier, newspaper pinned onto the seum. It didn’t take much time because he was in love with her. the duo’s collaborations over stuffed animal. — and a visit to the Brooklyn flea It was so explicit, so perfect in its the years creating some of the “My parents didn’t want me market — to tune into Brooklyn’s descriptions of the workings that designer’s most provocative to have a doll,” said Gaultier. “I artier vibe, which appealed to when I started to work at Cardin pieces. Gaultier agreed that like had my teddy bear and I paint- him from the get-go. “I don’t and Jean Patou, I thought, ‘Oh, no other pop icon, she has paved ed it, putting on makeup. At feel like a young artist at all but but I am in Falbalas.’” the way for today’s female music that time, I was watching tele- for me it’s excellent, ” he said. Gaultier has had plenty of stars, specifically Lady Gaga and vision and it was the wedding “The museum is beautiful. It’s so muses along the way, from Rossy Miley Cyrus. “Madonna opened of Fabiola of Belgium to King American in its proportion but de Palma to Linda Evangelista, the doors and when you open Baudouin, so I also planned the great with so much variety. I am Jean Paul Gaultier Coco Rocha, Anna Pawlowski doors, you have followers,” he wedding for my teddy bear. It honored to have been invited.” and Farida Khelfa, “some that said. “They were educated by her. was before Madonna.” Sacai From Coast to Coast Traub Fellowship Unveiled·· CHITOSE ABE is what one might call a a store appearance on Thursday and an Traub did not heed the advice, but re- fashion late bloomer. event at the Hammer Museum on Friday. By KATHERINE BOWERS sponded with a personal invitation the Roughly 15 years after launching her Arriving in New York on Monday left next time Schulman was in New York. Tokyo-based collection, Sacai, Abe has ex- little time for touring, although visiting CAMBRIDGE, Mass. — The Traub family The two struck up a friendship dur- perienced a recent surge in interest. Some downtown art galleries and some fur- — and industry heavyweights who are like ing Traub’s second career as dealmaker credit the uptick to Karl Lagerfeld, who niture shopping were on Abe’s agenda, family to them — gathered Monday evening and brand strategist running Marvin was seen wearing a Sacai blazer around with the opportunity to interact with at Harvard Business School to unveil a fel- Traub Associates. They met often in Paris last season; others pinpoint Anna her American clientele as the big prior- lowship honoring the late Marvin S. Traub, Paris and London. Wintour’s pit stop in Abe’s showroom dur- ity. “I’m very proud to be an indepen- B.A., 1947, M.B.A., 1949. The fellowship, “I’d get a call to meet Marvin at the ing a 2011 trip to Tokyo. Regardless, the dent woman, a mother of a 15-year-old the brainchild of Value Retail founder and Lanesborough Hotel [in London] for press caught onto Sacai when Abe upgrad- daughter, with a full-time job,” said Abe. chairman Scott Malkin, will provide finan- ed her Paris presentation to a full run- “I think women in America identify with cial aid to business school students who way show for fall 2011. “I felt the clothes that more than in other places.” want to pursue fashion and retail careers. My husband dreamed needed to be worn on the runway to see Barneys stocks Sacai’s main collection “Beacon, counselor, mentor and the three-dimensionality of them,” said as well as the more casual Sacai Luck, friend, Marvin was all those to me,” of having something in Abe of her hybrid cuts — spring’s sporty yet interestingly, Abe said that her run- said Malkin. Windbreakers in grand Sixties couture way pieces are the top sellers in the U.S., Lee and Marvin Traub’s three Harvard- volumes, for example — during an inter- where they attract “women who want to educated children (Peggy, 1980; Jimmy, his name at his view Tuesday morning at Barneys New feel empowered by clothes but don’t feel 1977, and Andrew B.A., 1974, M.B.A., York’s Madison Avenue flagship. the need to wear a power suit,” she said. 1978) joined their mother. Grandson beloved Harvard. Making an impact on the Paris show Indeed, the Sacai aesthetic, with its focus Alex graduated from Harvard in May. schedule has thrust Abe’s business into on complicated cuts and what Abe de- Professors told stories of Traub’s fre- — LEE TRAUB expansion mode outside of Japan, where scribes as “something a little off ” can be quent visits to campus and his passion for she’s had a steady following and a free- classified as distinctly Japanese. Prior to connecting with students. “He wasn’t unbi- breakfast at 7:30 only to find out I was the standing store since 2011. She sees the launching her own line, Abe worked at ased about the fact that he wouldn’t be dis- second of three to four breakfasts he had U.S. market as the biggest opportunity, Comme des Garçons as a patternmaker appointed if they joined Bloomingdale’s,” planned,” Schulman recalled. “My hour thus this week’s trip to the States for with Rei Kawakubo before joining Junya said Walter Salmon, HBS professor emer- would be up and here would be [Harrods the first time in seven years. She’s doing Watanabe’s design team. Abe’s interpre- itus. After speaking to a class, Lee and chief merchant] Marigay McKee coming bicoastal personal appearances with tation of Comme des Garçons’s avant Marvin Traub would always gather a group in for her 60 minutes.” Barneys, today at the Madison Avenue school of thought is more playful and light of students for lunch. Over the years, Traub Traub was a genius at “connecting the flagship followed by a small dinner at than Kawakubo and Watanabe’s work. It’s helped several employees get into HBS. dots,” Schulman said. He·· told students Omar’s. Her next stop is Los Angeles for tempting to call the look youthful, par- “My husband dreamed of having this is the crucial quality for success in ticularly in light of the bright something in his name at his beloved fashion — creativity can’t be isolated and athletic collection she Harvard,” Lee Traub said. “For this, my from operational focus, and vice versa. just showed for spring, but family and I are very grateful.” Schulman told students the days of Abe says her customer base After a private reception to unveil narrow career paths are over. He cited

JENNA GREENE covers a broad age range. the fellowship, the group adjourned to a boundary-breaking careers, such as “Women in their 60s wear it, lecture hall where Bergdorf Goodman Natalie Massenet, a former editor who at least in Japan, and much president Joshua Schulman and founded Net-a-porter, and Burberry cre-

PHOTO BY younger women, too,” said Bloomingdale’s chairman and chief exec- ative director Christopher Bailey, who Abe, 48, who made the case utive officer Michael Gould gave talks that will move into the ceo role next year. for the individualist wear- were part Traub homage and part retail Gould talked about Traub’s intellec- ability of her line by dressing career lessons for the gathered students. tual curiosity, his focus on developing in a velvet dress and trench Schulman said he followed Traub’s others. These are enduring leadership combination from her fall col- Bloomingdale’s career even as a pre- qualities, he said. lection — paired with high- teen. “I sent him a letter when I was “Nobody remembers the numbers. top Vans and a handful of 12 years old giving him a lot of unso- Marvin didn’t remember the numbers, but Chitose Abe at Repossi rings. Her outfit was licited advice about when and where clearly there are a lot of people, and some Barneys New York. definitely not wearing her. Bloomingdale’s should open stores in of them are in this room, who he devel- — JESSICA IREDALE Southern California,” he said. oped who do remember him,” Gould said. 4 WWD wednesday, october 23, 2013 Blues Traveler Go surf-hoppinG with layers of eclectic prints, boho frinGinG and a hint of beachy sportif. s Mara hoffman’s cotton and acrylic sweater; robert rodriguez’s raffia skirt. italia independent sunglasses; sisco + berluti bead bracelets; Gypsies and debutantes woven bracelets; teva sandals.

s band of outsiders’ cotton and polyester knit dress. barton perreira sunglasses; oK 1984 necklaces.

M Missoni’s polyester and cotton mesh tank top and cotton and elastane pants. noir Jewelry bracelets; teva sandals; vintage hat.

w23a004(5)a;10.indd 1 10/22/13 4:56 PM 10222013170146 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013 5 WWD.COM

▲ Milo’s viscose and Lycra peplum worn as a top; Cynthia Rowley’s silk crepe and cotton mesh skirt. Noir Jewelry earrings and cuffs; M Missoni bag.

▲ H. Fredrikkson’s silk cupro dress; Love by Diego Binetti’s cotton scarf and cotton and polyester pants. Surf Bazaar belt worn as a necklace; Kevia rings and bangles; Leica M9 limited-edition camera; Teva sandals.

FOR NARS COSMETICS MISUZU MIYAKE

Karen Walker’s viscose and rayon dress and pants worn over Haute Hippie’s silk dress. Jaclyn Mayer for Orly Genger jewelry; Converse

Eyewear sunglasses; MAKEUP BY DIEZ FOR DIAZHAIR.COM; MARCOS Kayu clutch; Trina Turk sandals. HALM/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODEL: LAURA 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013 WWD.COM CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY U.S. Apparel Trio Bangladesh Plans Forge Ahead Gets Green Awards

“The magnitude of the task will take Tuesday, the alliance published a list By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN By KRISTI ELLIS five years,” he said. “The good news of the 620 factories, including factory is the brands are committed and have names, addresses, number of workers THREE FASHION FIRMS — Earth WASHINGTON — As the six-month an- grown proud of the accord and want and composition of the buildings on its Creations, Nancy’s Gone Green and niversary of the Rana Plaza building change to happen. On the other hand, Web site: bangladeshworkersafety.org. Maggie’s Organics — were chosen to collapse that killed 1,129 workers is they know they can’t afford another The alliance said that half of these fac- receive the latest Green America quar- marked on Thursday, two separate in- Rana Plaza for their image.” tories have been inspected thus far. terly “People & Planet Award,” given to dustry initiatives aimed at improving Showing that reforms will take time, an- The alliance also has plans to open an America’s best green, small businesses. building and fire safety in Bangladesh’s other tragedy hit the industry this month office in early December in Bangladesh Each winner, selected by the public garment industry are intensifying their when a blaze at the Aswad Composite Mills and has retained Elevate, a Hong through a month-long open voting period efforts and expanding their reach to on the outskirts of Dhaka killed nine peo- Kong-based management and consult- online at Green America’s Web site, re- cover more factories and workers. ple and injured more than 46. ing firm with extensive experience in ceives $5,000. The People & Planet Awards In the wake of a string of garment- Across the Atlantic Ocean, a sepa- Bangladesh’s apparel industry, which will recognize innovative entrepreneurial U.S. factory tragedies that stopped the evo- rate coalition of retailers and brands employ 22 people on the ground in the businesses that integrate environmental lution of corporate social responsibil- launched their own initiative in July and country and work with Krilla to achieve and social considerations into their strat- ity in its tracks, European and North named it the Alliance for Bangladesh the alliance’s goals. It has also appointed egies and operations. This round of the American brands and retailers have awards focused on green businesses that come under intense global pressure to have committed to the production of ap- implement safety action plans. parel in an ethical manner. The IndustriALL Global Union Alisa Gravitz, president of Green and UNI Global Union are leading the America, said: “The Bangladesh sweat- first initiative, known as the Accord on shop accident this year cast into stark Fire & Building Safety in Bangladesh, relief the terrible conditions that many which was unveiled in May. On Tuesday, workers in the clothing industry endure the International Labor Organization and which also claim lives. Yet, these launched a Better Works program in three businesses prove that there are al- Dhaka to inspect and monitor factories. ternatives to that reality. Green America Bangladesh’s $21.5 billion garment export is proud to recognize businesses that sector has an estimated 5,000 to 5,400 facto- demonstrate a commitment to green prod- ries employing about four million workers. ucts and to the pursuit of safe working This month, accord officials an- conditions and fair living wages with this nounced that they signed the 100th re- People & Planet Award.” tailer and apparel brand to the five-year, Earth Creations, based in Bessemer, binding action plan, which includes Ala., produces a full line of organic apparel Inditex, Hennes & Mauritz, Marks & for men, women and children. Its clothes Spencer, Carrefour, C&A, Primark, Puma, are dyed with natural and low-impact col-

Benetton, PVH Corp. and American Putting out the fire at STRDEL/AFP/GETTY IMAGES ors. Originally inspired by the color of

Eagle Outfitters Inc. The accord, which Aswad Composite Mills. BY Alabama red dirt, the company started ex- covers 1,600 factories and two million perimenting with clay as a dye for T-shirts workers, recently launched a Web site at PHOTO more than 17 years ago. With a sewing plant bangaldeshaccord.org and released com- Worker Safety. This rival group, which two technical experts to its committee to in Moulton, Ala., Earth Creations’ mission is prehensive data on the factories, such as includes Wal-Mart Stores Inc., Gap Inc., help on implementation of the standards to create high-quality, eco-friendly clothing addresses, the number of stories of each VF Corp. and Target Corp., formed a and the inspection process. in a sustainable manner. structure where a factory operates and binding five-year worker, fire and factory “We want to create the capacity for Martin Ledvina, co-owner of Earth the amount of workers·· at each site. safety pact that will provide $48 million people in all of the various constituencies Creations, said, “We express our commit- As part of the binding plan, compa- in funds to improve factory safety condi- to maintain the standards [once the alli- ment to people and the planet through nies must pay for renovation and repairs tions in Bangladesh. The plan will also ance has finished its mission],” Tauscher our organic, made-in-the-USA cloth- to ensure factories in Bangladesh are provide more than $100 million in loans said. “Those are the benchmarks we are ing, as well as community outreach. made safe. The five-year pact is a legally and access to capital to assist factory looking at — getting the standards adopt- Some of our recent activities include enforceable contract between companies owners in making safety improvements. ed, getting a broad coalition to agree on participation and donations for a fash- and unions that will use binding arbitra- When it launched, the alliance plan the standards, begin to implement them ion event that is to benefit the Alabama tion to resolve disputes. It also requires a said it would complete inspections of and train workers so they understand Environmental Council in its efforts “vital role” for workers and their unions 100 percent of its members’ factories in what they should be looking for.” to restore the Birmingham Recycling through the establishment of health and Bangladesh within the first year, devel- Observers said the two action plans Center. Some of the funds received from safety committees in all covered factories op common safety standards by October, are a step in the right direction but Green America will be devoted to similar with worker representatives comprising publicly share all of its inspections and warned that true reform will be difficult projects as part of a grass-roots campaign at least a 50 percent partnership. democratically elect worker participa- to achieve without more support from to build awareness and educate consum- the Bangladeshi government. ers about the Slow Fashion Movement, “Both of the plans are an improve- referring to an effort to bring together ment on what is happening today,” said the “sustainable,” “eco,” “green” and We have a very comprehensive plan Edwin Keh, a lecturer at the University of “ethical” fashion movements. Pennsylvania’s Wharton Business School. Nancy’s Gone Green in Framingham, and have identified a way forward. While Keh said he expects the indus- Mass., is an eco-friendly online boutique. try initiatives to be effective, he is also It works with established and up-and-com- — ELLEN O’KANE TAUSCHER, concerned that real progress will not be ing designers to offer finely crafted collec- made until the government and unions tions that are organic, recycled, fair trade ALLIANCE FOR BANGLADESH WORKER SAFETY are brought into the fold. or made in the U.S. It uses a system of “eco “Unless the government and trade icons” to let consumers know about the unions are at the table, this will always ethics behind every product. The company “The scope of this is so big,” Jyrki tion committees at every factory. be about doing it because the customer is developing an organic clothing line to be Raina, IndustriALL’s general secretary, Ellen O’Kane Tauscher, independent asked you to do it instead of because it made by artisans in Nepal. said in an interview. “If you think of it chair of the alliance, who led its board is the right thing to do for our economy Mary Savoca, co-owner of Nancy’s as a [$21.5 billion] export industry with on a trip to Bangladesh last month, said and development,” Keh said. Gone Green, said the grant will be used 5,000 factories and four million workers, the alliance has made “a lot of progress Richard Locke, a political science pro- to develop the organic line, adding, it reveals how out of control the whole in its short gestation” of 12 to 13 weeks. fessor at Brown University and director “We’ll be introducing the first pieces Bangladesh garment industry has been. “So I think we have a very compre- of its Watson Institute for International from our new collection starting this It has grown so quickly and in an environ- hensive plan and have identified a way Studies, said: “It is a shame there are [month], with organic cotton and bamboo ment where the rule of law is not strong, forward,” Tauscher said.·· “While this is two different initiatives. We shouldn’t be dresses and tops.” with probable corruption and a mix of a daunting challenge, there is a very sig- competing on stuff like this. We should Maggie’s Organics, based in Ypsilanti, factory owners who are politicians.” nificant commitment and milestones are be cooperating and have one big initia- Mich., produces a line of socks, tights, The accord’s “infrastructure” is in being achieved.” tive. I think it is a distraction from the leggings, scarves and apparel made from place, Raina said. It has appointed its ex- The alliance’s board has finalized real issue and the real issue is ‘Let’s all organic wool and organic cotton grown by ecutive directors and a chief fire inspector, and adopted its standards for fire safety get together and figure out how to make 3,000 family farmers, and is produced by but still needs to hire more fire and build- and building structural integrity, shared things work to improve the health and three supply chains that include worker- ing safety inspectors, at which point it will a draft copy of the standards with the safety and working conditions.’” owned cooperatives, and family-owned begin conducting building-safety inspec- accord officials in Bangladesh and plans Locke said until the government and -operated U.S. sock mills. tions, starting with those deemed most to share the updated version with the builds a foundation on rule of law and en- “Since our founding back in 1992, one dangerous. The goal is to inspect all of the ILO this month. forces its fire and building safety laws, he of Maggie’s missions has been to connect covered factories within nine months. Jeffrey Krilla, president of the alli- doesn’t expect to see a significant change. the workers that make our socks and ap- In addition, individual companies have ance, said membership has grown to “Until there is a public [government] parel to the folks that wear them,” said already launched a new level of inspec- 23 companies and now covers 620 fac- infrastructure in place working with these Bena Burda, owner of Maggie’s Organics. tions at their own factories, according to tories in Bangladesh and 1.1 million private initiatives, I don’t believe we will “We dedicate the proceeds from the Raina, and the government of Bangladesh workers. The three newest members see significant, sustainable improvement People & Planet Award to bringing more has committed to hiring new personnel to are Ariela Alpha International, Fruit in the building and fire safety standards or of our cooperative producers to meet and inspect factories not covered by the accord. of the Loom and M. Hidary & Co. On in labor standards,” Locke said. interact with our customers.”

8 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013

denim Rosella Giuliani Joins True Religion

chandising for Japan and with Guess Inc. as By ARNOLD J. KARR general merchandise manager of women’s. The company has been focused on de- ROSELLA GIULIANI, a veteran of Gap’s veloping a long-term strategic plan since 1969 collection and Seven For All Mankind, its acquisition by TowerBrook this summer has joined True Religion Apparel Inc. as se- and has been mum about its specific mer- nior vice president of merchandising. chandising and marketing direction.

Giuliani will have responsibility for Pressed to address whether True True Religion’s global merchandising and Religion, for instance, would stay true to retail buying teams. Like Gary Harvey, ap- the thick contrast stitching and embel- pointed creative director of the company lished back flap pockets with which the in September, she will report to Lynne brand has been synonymous, she focused Koplin, chief merchandising officer. her response on what she deemed to be

“This is a highly competitive industry the brand’s more enduring values. and having the right talent makes all the “There are so many brands out there difference,” David Conn, chief executive today and so many choices,” she noted, “but officer, told WWD. “When I think about True Religion was founded with a really the combination of Lynne, Gary and now strong brand identity that we can build on. Rosella, I think we have an A-team in place It’s about a free spirit, the Los Angeles life- EBay’s update includes an option to follow curators like Solange Knowles’’ and Pharrell Williams. with respect to product and in this busi- style and not a particular look. It’s important ness it all starts with product.” that we capture that. Whatever trend is rel- Conn said he is nearing completion evant at the moment, we will try to convey of the management team he began to as- it in a way that works with TR’s aesthetic.” EBay Revamp Takes Social Cues semble following his appointment as ceo The Vernon, Calif.-based company ad- in July. He joined the premium jeanswear ditionally appointed Steve Horak senior {Continued from page one} It!” (including a rare edition of Dr. Seuss’ firm upon the completion of TowerBrook vice president of planning and alloca- site to try to create a more engaging ex- “Green Eggs and Ham” listed for almost Capital Partners’ acquisition of the com- tion, effective Nov. 4. He will report to perience for its 124 million active users. $6,000 and a vintage Casio keyboard). pany for $835 million. Eric Bauer, chief operating officer and For the first time, eBay will add edito- Williams has five “collections”— but Giuliani, who’d run her own consult- chief financial officer. rial elements and have a point of view. Cho already has 17, primarily spanning ing firm for the past year, earlier spent two Horak, who will oversee planning, al- The site has never enlisted curators to art, design and fashion, much like her years with Gap Inc. as vice president of location and inventory management, has build branded collections before. The blog “Oh Joy!” at ohjoy.com. merchandising and design and creative di- been with Guess for 12 years, most recent- feed, which users see as their homep- Unlike Pinterest or other curation rector of Gap’s 1969 program. Prior to that, ly as senior vice president of global plan- age, has a similar aesthetic to Pinterest. sites driven by social discovery, every she was with Seven For All Mankind as vice ning and allocation. Earlier in his career, Michael Phillips Moskowitz, eBay president of global merchandising and de- he was with The Wet Seal Inc., Victoria’s Inc.’s chief curator and editorial direc- sign, with Gap Inc. as vice president of mer- Secret and Warner Brothers Studio Stores. tor, said the site will couple a “differenti- ated voice with rich visual narratives” in We’re giving people order to promote digital and the stores of affiliated retailers working with eBay. the ability to collect, Moskowitz oversees the eBay Today Diesel Enters Online Retail Venture homepage, which is updated daily. Once they log in, they see a site that is visual- share and connect decided to continue their e-commerce col- ly tailored to their interests, collections By GORDON SORLINI and laboration in Europe and Japan,” Diesel’s and the other users they follow. with the community. LUISA ZARGANI newly installed chief executive officer The company likened the homepage Alessandro Bogliolo told WWD. “They also to a magazine experience. — DEVIN WENIG, EBAY MILAN — Diesel is set to launch a agreed to consider opening other markets “We’ve never treated this market- MARKETPLACE new online retail partnership in North and to not continue their partnership in the place with a curatorial or hyper-selec- America with multiple partners, including United States, with a view to maximizing tive eye,” Moskowitz said. SapientNitro and eBay Enterprise, a unit profitability for both companies.” Williams, Benz, Solange Knowles, item featured in a collection is avail- of the U.S. e-commerce giant, formerly GSI Privately held OTB, formerly known Eddie Borgo, “Mad Men” costume de- able for purchase. Commerce, WWD has learned. as Only the Brave, is the parent holding signer Janie Bryant, Cecilia Dean, Lucy EBay chief technology officer Mark According to a well-placed source, the company of Diesel and controls brands in- Sykes, blogger Joy Cho, author Kelly Carges described “collections” as more Italian fashion brand is dubbing the project cluding Marni, Viktor & Rolf and Maison Oxford and world champion race-car than just a mood board because the “an eco-system to achieve multichannel op- Martin Margiela, as well as manufacturing driver Justin Bell are among the 200 content is entirely shoppable. He ex- erations.” It will include all Diesel stores in arm Staff International. In 2012, Diesel had curators selected by eBay to showcase plained that users can set up a profile the U.S. and integrate online and brick-and- sales of 1.1 billion euros, or about $1.41 bil- their discoveries on the marketplace — page and “follow” influential users. mortar units, said the source. SapientNitro, lion at average exchange. and each selection is shoppable. Recommendations for other collections, an international interactive marketing, “The decision taken jointly with the “It was kind of like the cure to miss- members and interests that users might creative design and technology services OTB Group, our strategic partner and ing out,” Williams said of discovering the want to “follow” are based on behavior agency, will be in charge of the platform and long-standing shareholder, not to contin- online marketplace. He admitted that be- and prior personal selections,’’ not past its design, while eBay will take care of lo- ue with the Diesel brand in the U.S. is in fore really digging into the site, he thought purchases. The collections structure al- gistics and customer care. The partnership line with Yoox’s strategy to increasingly eBay sold just used or old items. “I real- lows for better visual merchandising with is to debut on Nov. 1, while the multichan- focus on the luxury segment,” said Silvia ized it was actually the exact opposite. I an engagement aspect (users are encour- nel, eco-system element will be operative in Scagnelli, Yo o x Group investor relations could find anything I was looking for.” aged to follow and share with each other), early 2014, said the source. and financial communications director. His collections have names like “Best. and trending collections are displayed. Until now, Diesel’s online store was op- “We are pursuing this strategy through dy- Toys.Ever.,” “All Draped Up” (containing “People want to shop the way they want erated by Yo o x Group SpA, an agreement namic and profit-driven monobrand port- items like a vintage Chanel scarf and sil- to shop. They want control and retailers set to end on Oct. 31. Earlier this year, Yo o x folio management; in fact, in the United ver microphone cuff links) and “Found have to respond to that,” Wenig said. and Diesel said their partnership would States, diesel.com has an average order “discontinue” at the end of 2013. value 43 percent below our U.S. mono- Yo o x continues to manage Diesel’s brand average.” monobrand e-commerce operations in The U.S. Diesel online store was not a Europe and Japan. However, according to big revenue generator for Yoox. When the a market source, Diesel also has options to two companies in May revealed the deci- end these partnerships, starting from 2014. sion to “discontinue” the North American According to the source, Diesel’s deci- partnership, Yoox said it accounted for “ap- sion to set up shop with the eBay unit was proximately 2 percent” of its 2012 sales. partly driven by eBay Enterprise’s ability to However, should Diesel decide to termi- offer cross-channel integration through its nate the other partnerships, the impact is platform. This includes functions like allow- likely to be bigger. According to the market ing of a customer to order a product online source, the Diesel monobrand store is one and pick it up in a store or order a product of Yoox’s largest monobrand online stores online, have it delivered at home and then in terms of revenues. return it to the store for exchange or fitting. Aside from the diesel.com online store, EBay Enterprise is already well es- there are other ties between Yoox and the tablished in the apparel sector in North Italian fashion brand: The largest single America, where it manages e-commerce op- shareholder in Yoox itself is Renzo Rosso, erations for brands including Levi’s, Ralph the owner of Diesel parent OTB, through Lauren, Quiksilver, Speedo and Timberland. his Red Circle Investments, his family’s “As already announced in May, on the private investment holding. In a Sept. 24 occasion of the signing of an agreement filing with Italy’s Consob stock market with Yoox, which strengthened the strategic regulator, Rosso said he held 8.6 percent partnership with other OTB brands — ex- of the Italian online fashion retailer, down EBay’s homepage with its new features. tending their duration — Diesel and Yo o x from a previously held 9.3 percent.

w23a008a;9.indd 8 10/22/13 7:36 PM 10222013193740 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013 9 WWD.COM

out up-and-coming labels for pop-up shops and special exhi- Praise, Caution at Japan Fashion Week bitions at their stores. “We wanted to explore the fashion calendar for interna- I think [organizers] need to do Reactions from this group of brands that didn’t have the By AMANDA KAISER tional buyers, but JFW organiz- something about that,” he said. buyers was mixed. chance [to show in Paris or anoth- ers said foreign retailer registra- Matsuya’s Sekimoto said she Ksenia Mamontova, owner er international capital] and now TOKYO — Japan Fashion Week, tions rose to 192 this season, up thought the quality of the Tokyo of multibrand store Leform in we’re quite happy with the re- which ended its six-day run from 168 registrations in March collections was “much, much Moscow, said she came to find sult that we see,” Faris Al Shehri Saturday, drew mostly positive and 153 in October 2012. A JFW better than last season.” She said “something new” for her store. She said, adding that the retailer had reviews from buyers making spokeswoman stressed that she was happy to see brands like was pleased with what she found placed orders for about 10 brands the rounds of runway shows some buyers choose not to reg- including Avie and Yeah Right. and showrooms. ister, so the true number of re- While Japanese brands tend But it’s still unclear how tailers coming to Tokyo is higher A look A style to limit their size range to the much that feedback will actu- than the official figures. from Mint from smaller end of the spectrum, ally translate into sales. Japan Of the 192 registered interna- Designs. Somarta. which can be tricky for foreign is planning to increase its sales tional buyers from this season, 52 buyers, the Al Shehris said they tax to 8 percent from 5 percent of them were representing stores were pleased to find ways to in April and some Japanese re- in China. Another 28 represented work around that issue. tailers are expressing a certain American retailers and 26 did so “Especially the length [is level of caution about how much for stores in Hong Kong. These important] for our market. We that added cost might deter shop- were the top three markets. want everything longer so the pers. Meanwhile, foreign buyers Takuya Saito, a buyer for e- Japanese designers are quite here said they are being selective commerce player Zozotown, said flexible and they understand when it comes to placing orders. overall his budget for Japanese that,” said Layla Al Shehri. Miyako Sekimoto, fashion di- brands is increasing. Darlyn Sophonpanich rector for Matsuya, said her store “Basically, I’m always looking Yangpichit, chief executive offi- is keeping its current spring 2014 for clothes with a kind of value GIANNONI GIOVANNI cer of multibrand store Darlyny budget for Japanese brands in — something that you can’t find in Bangkok, said she liked the line with this year to be sure it anywhere else. So in that sense, character and quality of the doesn’t wind up with unsold stock. the most enjoyable one this time PHOTOS BY brands she saw in Tokyo, like “We are a little worried so we was Anrealage, and after that Somarta and Mint Designs put at brands like Helmaph & Roditus, Undecorated Man and hat line decided to keep the same bud- was a brand called Lamarck. It’s out clothing with a unique point Suzuki Takayuki and Arts & Ca4la (pronounced Cashira, get,” she said, adding that it’s in its second or third year and of view but still in keeping with Science, but other designers’ offer- playing off the Japanese word easier for Japanese retailers to until now, I haven’t really no- broader international fashion ings fell short in terms of the qual- for the number four) but she is buy Japanese brands’ stock at ticed it, but this time it was very trends — like this season’s move ity her luxury customers expect. going to need to think carefully the last minute rather than im- clean…as a collection I thought away from spare minimalism to- “[These Japanese brands] are before placing orders. port foreign brands from abroad. it was very tight,” he said. ward prints and ornamentation. not for our shop. It’s not our level. “I like the designers, but So Matsuya might wait as late Saito expressed a certain “I think they felt those kind It’s like streetwear,” she said. some styles don’t mesh with our as March or April to gauge the level of frustration about Tokyo’s of big changes [within fashion],” Faris Al Shehri, managing customers,” she said, describing situation before possibly placing packed schedule in which on- Sekimoto said. director of Saudi Arabian retail her store’s style as casual and more orders with local labels. calendar and off-calendar events In keeping with past sea- group Art of Kôhl, and Layla Al relaxed. “We have to select and Tokyo Fashion Week, spon- overlapped with one another. sons, the Japan External Trade Shehri, buying director for the mix and match.” sored by Mercedes-Benz, has “I wasn’t able to see some Organization flew several retail- company’s Maison Bo-M store, — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS never been a major stop on the of the ones I wanted to see. So ers to Tokyo for fashion week. made the trip to Tokyo to check FROM KELLY WETHERILLE

luxury department stores. The four For the six months ended Aug. 3, largest retail customers are Saks Fifth Vince posted net income of $2.4 million Vince Gets Corporate Rating Avenue, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and on net sales of $114.7 million. Apparel Bloomingdale’s, which reflected 61 per- Holding, including the non-Vince busi- NEW YORK — Ratings agency Moody’s umbrella. Following the IPO, Vince will cent of fiscal 2012 total revenues, Moody’s nesses under Kellwood, posted a net loss Investors Service has assigned a B2 corpo- become Vince Holding Corp. and the noted. The agency also said the rating of $25.6 million on net sales of $363.9 rate family rating to Vince LLC and a B2 non-Vince businesses will be under the took into consideration “Vince’s gener- million, according to a filing with the rating to the fashion firm’s proposed $174 Kellwood Holding Corp. umbrella. The ally consistent execution, evidenced in Securities and Exchange Commission re- million senior secured term loan facility. planned IPO is for up to $200 million. It its high operating margins,” as well as lated to the planned IPO. Moody’s said the outlook is “stable.” is still unclear how many shares will be Moody’s expectation that the “company Kellwood acquired Vince in 2006, and The proposed financing is in anticipa- issued or at what price. will maintain a good liquidity profile.” was subsequently acquired by Sun Capital tion of the planned initial public offering Moody’s said its rating assignment Standard & Poor’s, also a ratings agency, Partners in 2008 for an aggregate consid- of Apparel Holdings Corp., which cur- was due to the company’s limited scale assigned a preliminary “B” corporate cred- eration of $955.4 million, including the as- rently holds the Vince business and the and narrow product focus, as well as it rating to the company and the term loan sumption of debt, in a cash tender offer. non-Vince businesses under the Kellwood its high distribution concentration at as well, giving similar reasons as Moody’s. — VICKI M. YOUNG Lauren Boosts New York Lazada Online Mall Adding Fashion Manufacturing Initiative and homegrown local de- Asia],” Hardenberg said. By SHARON EDELSON signers. Lazada sells Esprit, “Because of the incomes here {Continued from page one} mation of where you can make things Timberland, Ray-Ban, Crocs, and the GDP, the market is $1 million to the initiative, and Rosen in New York, and several databases, FASHION is the next fron- Moschino and Wacoal, among less mature. We have a grow- committed $500,000: $250,000 from but none of it is really prominent, so tier for Lazada. other labels. “Local design- ing middle class, but it’s not Theory and $250,000 himself. The we will take all that information and The largest online shop- ers sell very well and I see as strong as Europe and the program seeks support from design- make it available at cfda.com.” ping mall in Southeast Asia, great potential in Indonesia,” U.S. Fifty percent of the pop- ers and fashion indus- New York City facto- which launched in 2012 sell- Hardenberg said, adding ulation is under 30 years old.” try associates for funds, ries can apply for these ing electronics, health and that he wants to introduce Lazada offers a variety of and the start-up goal is funds by Nov. 1, and fi- beauty aids and lifestyle Indonesian designers to other categories to appeal to many between $3 million and nalists will be selected products, Lazada quickly countries such as Malaysia income brackets. “We have $5 million. next month. Recipients gained a following. The and the Philippines. “We have customers that can do high The New York City- will be revealed in Web site has five million this amazing network and baskets, but the focus has been wide program is four- December and grants Facebook fans, said Martell an opportunity to promote on the medium- to low-price pronged, with issues will be distributed in Hardenberg, cofounder and brands outside the country,” level, mass-market brands,” ranging from machin- February. fashion category manager. he said. “They have great de- Hardenberg said. “We’re going ery to work force, real Garment manufac- Lazada is a marketplace signs but don’t have marketing to test the premium sector.” estate and resource in- turing in the city once that acts as a platform “to give budgets.” Two local designers Hardenberg is looking at formation. employed 400,000 peo- large brands an opportunity to sold on Lazada participated in China and believes the plat- “Primarily, it’s an in- ple at its peak in 1973 extend their reach, especially Jakarta Fashion Week, he said. form offers brands a way to vestment in equipment, before the onset of the in non-metro areas where Lazada partners with local overcome the lack of retail new technology and in- GIANNONI GIOVANNI Ralph import era. According there is no retail infrastruc- delivery companies to ship infrastructure in that country. novations that currently Lauren to the Fashion Center ture,” Hardenberg said. “We thousands of orders every day Lazada two months ago don’t exist in New York,” Business Improvement started with fashion recently to the five countries it ser- launched an Android app that Kolb told WWD last PHOTO BY District, the actual so there are a couple if brands vices — Indonesia, Malaysia, got more than 100,000 down- month. “Two is capital improvement Garment District is currently home in the pipeline. Building a cat- Vietnam, Thailand and the loads in the first two weeks. on space, because if you have ever to 21,500 fashion-related jobs, com- egory like fashion won’t take Philippines. “We want to The company is also working been in a factory in New York City, you pared with 200,000 in the Sixties. very much time.” The site scale up the fashion category on giving international brands see how dismal the conditions can be, Today, apparel production continues charges brands a commission in those five markets.” their own shops-in-shop on the and this is an opportunity for factories to be New York City’s largest manu- based on sales. “It’s a partner- Price resistance is higher site. “We’re helping them pro- to improve working conditions. Then facturing sector, and across the five ship for us,” he said. in Southeast Asia than in vide their own look and feel,” there is the recruitment and retention boroughs, provides 24,000 working Hardenberg said the as- Europe or the U.S. “Gross do- he said. “In the Philippines, of labor for the factories. The last part and middle-class jobs, contributing sortment is divided evenly mestic product and income we started working on a shop- is information. There is a lot of infor- $2 billion of economic output a year. between large global brands are way lower in [Southeast in-shop with Nike.” 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013

Alexander Vreeland Diana Vreeland’s Paper Trail at home. THE WORD “ICON” is bandied Lisa’s film, “Diana Vreeland: suggestions for the rich, as in about much too freely today, but The Eye Has to Travel,” came “Why Don’t Yo u start a topiary Diana Vreeland, fashion editor out last year. Reed, who worked garden of box or yew and clip of Harper’s Bazaar, editor in at The Paris Review, helped put the bushes into peacocks and chief of Vogue and curator of together the “Memos” book. poodles?” or “Why Don’t Yo u the Costume Institute of the Diana Vreeland was a give a new note to your sitting Metropolitan Museum of Art, marvelous, self-invented room by introducing a Victorian really was one. She fascinated character. Never a beauty, she chair upholstered by Jensen in everyone in the fashion world transformed herself through bright emerald green cotton, and many outside it. So it’s style, will and charm into a buttoned in white with little good news that her grandson sought-after debutante and white chenille earrings on Alexander Vreeland has married banker T. Reed either side?” The engaging, eye gathered together a large group Vreeland, one of the handsomest often silly, ideas attracted a lot GEORGE CHINSEE of the memos she wrote at men of his day, who was always of attention, and the column was Vogue in a new book, “Memos: impeccably dressed, too. In the satirized by S.J. Perelman in The Vogue Years/1962-1971/ early years of their marriage, The New Yorker. PHOTO BY Diana Vreeland” (Rizzoli New The memos in the book a few of her former colleagues to a group of staff members, she York), which he edited. Memos communicate in the crisp, clear had thrown theirs out. “They usually never saw again, but and letters were the way she voice of someone who usually show how to work with creative on letters, which she reviewed, communicated with her staff, knows what she wants, and, people, how to manage creative she would add corrections in and the book gives a unique if she doesn’t, will recognize people,” he says. her characteristically dramatic set of insights into the way she it when she sees it. They are Another surprise for Vreeland handwriting. She would worked. Alexander Vreeland intelligent, well-written, frisky was that the great model communicate an idea to a makes the point that Harper’s and highly evocative of a time Veruschka had played such a key photographer or a stylist, but let Bazaar was the leading fashion when a great deal of exciting role at Vogue. Some of the photos them “figure out by themselves magazine of its time, while fashion was created. written about in the memos that how to execute it,” he adds. Vogue was considered more of Condé Nast had not kept he then tracked down seemed She said to Richard Avedon, for a society publication, but his copies of Vreeland’s memos, dated; none of those with instance, of a shoot in Egypt, grandmother changed that. but her grandson solicited Veruschka ever did, he says. “Think of a young Cleopatra Alexander Vreeland has them from people who had One of his favorite memos was pacing around on a roof.” been a high-ranking executive worked with her. He rounded written to Cristóbal Balenciaga Alexander is at pains to at Ralph Lauren and Giorgio up about 2,000, many of them when he closed his house. He point out that she got the best

Armani, owned his own fashion JAMES KARALES from Grace Mirabella and Pilar also likes a Feb. 19, 1965 memo, work out of people through company, and is currently Crespi, daughter of Consuelo referring to her initials, in which encouragement, not by being a working as a consultant on Crespi, who worked closely she says that she “does not tilt.” tough taskmaster. As Amanda a number of ventures. His PHOTO BY with Vreeland. He believes that He notes that all the memos Mackenzie Stuart, whose father, Frederick, a former Diana Vreeland and Cecil Beaton there are more out there, but were dictated, since D.V. couldn’t biography “Empress of Fashion: diplomat, believed that his son’s look at a drawing, 1965. was surprised to find that quite type. Those which were directed A Life of Diana Vreeland” background — and the fact that (Harper Perennial) is just he had helped care for her late in they lived in Albany, N.Y., then coming out in paperback, said, life — made him the ideal person moved to Europe, where they “She was not a bitch.” Her to handle his grandmother’s spent six-and-a-half years. A longtime colleague Sarah Slavin legacy, and he has done that, legacy from her grandmother called her “a joy to work with.” seeing that her books “Allure” helped them live stylishly. While She also changed few of the staff and “D.V.” have made it back they were there, designers began members when she arrived at into print, and also creating approaching Diana to be their Vogue from Harper’s Bazaar. this one. Bergdorf Goodman mannequin du monde, borrowing One memo, from Feb. 17, dedicated windows to the book or buying their creations at 1967, says: “Brigitte Bardot and will be throwing a book party reduced rates to show them off travelled halfway across the in the store tonight. on the social circuit. world to get married barefoot.… Vreeland and his wife, Lisa She hadn’t been to college Mrs. George Harrison, wife Immordino Vreeland, live in and never expected to work, of the Beatle, arrived on her an apartment in a beautiful but, when the couple returned honeymoon from Nassau to brownstone in Manhattan, to the U.S., she met Carmel The windows at London Airport in a miniskirt — which they share with their Snow, editor in chief of Harper’s Bergdorf Goodman published by us last winter.…The son Reed, daughter Olivia and Bazaar, where she began writing GEORGE CHINSEE dedicated to “Memos: tote bag is the thing.…The great charming boxer Fischio, which a column, “Why Don’t You…” The Vogue Years.” trip into unknown rough country — LORNA KOSKI

means “whistle” in Italian. It featured style and fashion PHOTO BY is the thing...”

YouTube.” Said Witherspoon, “I’m not sure if I should thank Chelsea for that speech. Jeez!” From the Heart Kathy Bates said she had reservations about coming, THE 20TH ANNUAL Women in Shailene Woodley, Naomie Harris, fashion not being her bag. “A Hollywood Celebration, hosted Reese Witherspoon and Eva Marie reporter pointed out that I by Elle, is not a place to Saint, eloquently summed up was wearing the same Jimmy expect much in the way of their dreams and aspirations Choos I wore to an event two red-carpet miscues, given for women in Tinseltown. weeks ago, like he its sponsors are a fashion Meyers put it best early on was smelling rotten glossy and Calvin Klein in the evening when she meat. That made me FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Collection. Instead, the said, “We have to take a a little nervous to WWD.com/eye. event has come to be seat at the table like be here,” she said. known for its heartfelt the women senators “The only reason Francisco Costa with speeches and female who finally ended I’m here is because Reese Witherspoon in Melissa McCarthy empowerment vibe. the government of Melissa McCarthy. I feel Calvin Klein Collection. and Ben Falcone And although the shutdown.” like we’re sisters. Not in that evening isn’t televised, “I love this Hollywood way, but in that producers do a bang- event,” said Ancestry.com way.” up job casting hosts. Francisco Costa, who Bates may have had This year Andy Samberg hosted Emilia Clarke, seniority over up-and-comers took on the roomful Joy Bryant, Jacqui Getty, like 21-year-old Woodley of heavy hitters at Gia Coppola and Rachel (the Calvin Klein Collection the Four Seasons Zoe at his table. Emerging Star Spotlight Beverly Hills, joking Marion “Obviously, or we honoree), but the evening’s about everything Cotillard in wouldn’t be here grande dame was the 89-year- from being cast Dior. spending money on it. old Saint, receiving the L’Oréal as Christian Grey But truly, it’s always Legend award. She recalled to the merits of honest and funny.” working with Alfred Hitchcock,

“topknot-cat-eye-bold- Chelsea Handler took Cary Grant and Lillian Gish, Laura Dern SARDELLA lip vs. fishtail-braid-smoky- advantage of the mood to and being married to the same and Shailene eye-nude-lip.” poke fun at Witherspoon’s man, director Jeffrey Hayden, Woodley, both DONATO Lea Michele

This year’s honorees, “inebriated soccer mom” for 62 years. “Now how many in Calvin Klein BY in Calvin Klein Marion Cotillard, Nancy incident, telling people, people can say that?” Collection. Collection. — MARCY MEDINA Meyers, Melissa McCarthy, “ Yo u should check it out on PHOTOS WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2013 11 WWD.COM N.Y. Child Labor Law Passed FASHION SCOOPS former caseworker for NYC’s Child By KARYN MONGET Welfare Administration, I’ve dedicat- ed my life to protecting children from SAKS SETTLES SUITS: Saks Inc. has NEW YORK — Politicians and models abuse and neglect....I thought I knew reached an agreement to settle seven turned out Tuesday to celebrate a new everything about children who have shareholder lawsuits seeking class child labor law that aims to end the ex- been exploited until I saw this, and I action status challenging the retailer’s ploitation of underage models in New was shocked. Most models begin their acquisition by Hudson’s Bay Co. for $3 York’s fashion industry. career around the age of 13, sacrificing billion. The terms of the settlement Signed by Gov. Andrew Cuomo late their education, health and financial agreement per a filing Tuesday with the Monday night, children working in the security to model without the basic Securities and Exchange Commission fashion and modeling industries will protections they deserve under New include a decrease in the termination now be provided the same protections York’s current law...We have brought fee payable by Saks to HBC if the afforded to other young performers in an end to the rampant exploitation transaction fails and a shorter time the entertainment sector. and sexual abuse of child models.” period allowing for HBC to match a At a press conference at the Scafidi sized up the new legisla- competing merger proposal from a Nicole Miller store in SoHo, legisla- tion this way: “This is a major step third party if there is one. A special tors including State Senate Majority for minors, made possible by the con- meeting of Saks shareholders to vote on ANTHROPOLOGIE Coalition Leader Jeff Klein (D., Bronx/ vergence of two social trends — con- the merger proposal is scheduled for OF cern over children’s Oct. 30 at 11 a.m. at the University Club welfare and the in- in New York. The merger is expected to creased recognition be completed next month. of fashion as an art — VICKI M. YOUNG form — thus models as performers.” CHIC CHARITY: Olivia Wilde is giving The law, which be- philanthropy a makeover with the comes effective Nov. help of designer Yoana Baraschi and KOCEV/BFANYC.COM/COURTESY 20, will afford the fol- Anthropologie. On behalf of her ALEKS

lowing protections: charity Conscious Commerce, Wilde BY ■ A responsible per- tweaked Baraschi’s $298 lace tea dress,

son designated to squaring off the cap sleeves and tinting PHOTOS monitor the activity it in classic colors of black, pink and and safety for each turquoise. Since she had worn the Olivia Wilde with the dress she codesigned with child performer pretty piece months earlier to another Yoana Baraschi and Barbara Burchfield for under the age of 16 event, Wilde opted instead to don Conscious Commerce and Anthropologie. at the work place. designs by Holmes & Yang and David ■ Employers must Yurman, along with a tiny “J” necklace This is the second fashion project Coco Rocha provide a nurse in honor of her fiancé, Jason Sudeikis, undertaken by Wilde and Conscious with pediatric ex- at the Monday launch party in Beverly Commerce cofounder Barbara Burchfield. perience as well as Hills, where she was joined Last year, they teamed with Westchester), State Sen. Diane Savino health and safety information. by actresses Maggie Grace Alternative Apparel to (D., Staten Island/Brooklyn) and ■ An education requirement that man- and Dianna Agron. Still, the FOR MORE release a messenger bag, Assemblyman Steve Otis (D., Rye), dates employers provide teachers and strategy was to pick what SCOOPS, SEE whose proceeds benefited a joined top models Coco Rocha and a dedicated space for instruction. was already a bestseller at WWD.com secondary school that Wilde Arnelis Sosa as well as industry ex- ■ A financial trust must be estab- Anthropologie to “reach cofounded in Haiti. One ecutives including Sara Ziff, founder lished by a child model’s parent or as many consumers more collaboration is slated and executive director of the Model guardian into which an employer as possible,” she said. to arrive for the holidays. “At Alliance; Doreen Small, a partner must transfer at least 15 percent of the Anthropologie and Baraschi are a time people are spending the most of Marquart & Small LLP, and Susan child’s gross earnings. donating profits from the sale of the money at retail,” Wilde said, “that’s the Scafidi, founder and academic direc- Rocha, a former child model, said, first 1,000 dresses to fund a girls’ school opportunity to direct to something that tor of the Fashion Law Institute at “This will be one of the events that stand called New Light in Calcutta, India. is useful.” — KHANH T.L. TRAN Fordham Law School. out as among the milestones in my ca- Savino, who serves as chair of the reer....This will change the industry and Senate Labor Committee, said, “As a the way that girls look at this industry.”

launch ModMods.com, billed as one of the first globally minded fashion MEMO PAD portals — and one not tethered to runway trends, but rather what stylish For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. INTERNSHIPS ENDING: Condé Nast has women actually wear and why. A beta decided to discontinue its internship version is slated to go live the first program starting in 2014, WWD has week of November, with a full launch learned. The end of the program in February to coincide with fall comes after the publisher was sued fashion weeks. Spaces this summer by two former interns Spearheading the upmarket title who claimed they were paid below the is Kenya Hunt, Metro’s global style COMMERCIAL minimum wage during internships at director, who will tap into its network REAL ESTATE W and The New Yorker. of reporters in places like New York, AVAILABLE LICENSE!!! ASSISTANT DESIGNER Condé is just one of several media Stockholm and Saint Petersburg, "HAMPTON ORGANICS" NY based Evening wear company seek FOR NATURAL OR ORGANIC highly self motivated assistant companies facing similar litigation Russia, and also recruit contributors BATH AND BODY PRODUCTS designer, with minimum 2-years of in- from summer interns. In February to report on a spectrum of fashionable HOME FURNISHINGS dustry experience. The qualifying can- JUICES/TEAS, YOGURTS, APPAREL didate should have experience in 2012, a former intern at Hearst’s women in different cities. CONTACT: [email protected] sketching, great computer skills and Harper’s Bazaar sued, claiming the ModMods is to cover fashion, 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes be organized. Should also be energetic, Menswear Showrooms team player and able to multi task. magazine violated minimum wage beauty and “street style,” which D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Please call 212-944-2188 Patrick Joans and overtime laws. A judge threw Hunt cautioned has become a and email, [email protected] out the case, but the intern appealed loaded phrase often synonymous Attn: Import/Compliance Long Island apparel import & distribu- and the suit remains unresolved. with “women dressed head-to-toe in tion co. looking for Import & Customs In another case that was settled in designer clothes loaned to them.” By Compliance person: 5 years minimum experience in actual import/export co. June, two interns who worked for contrast, her aim is “to get back to working on logistic, custom brokers & Fox Searchlight successfully sued the something that feels accessible but Subscribe truckers. Computer savvy, Knowledge- able & able to prepare annual reports studio for similar reasons. still aspirational and inspiring.” on C-TPAT, ISA, ACE & other CBP today! programs.Those selected must bring Several days after that case was While the site is to feature video lap tops, position entails some over- settled, Lauren Ballinger, an intern at W programming, celebrity and designer seas travel Indicate salary require- ments Email resumes to : in 2009, and Matthew Leib, who worked at interviews and other familiar fare, Call 800.289.0273 [email protected]/ The New Yorker in 2009 and 2010, filed Hunt stressed the goal is to generate a fax to 631-694-8887 their lawsuit, which is still pending. conversation with women about “the for individual MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED The size of the average Condé way they style themselves,” rather Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- subscriptions or on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ intern class is unclear. Current interns than the usual top-down preaching of stores. If you sell to fashion accessory buyers, email: [email protected]. are not affected and will remain designer trends. email Sales Assr/Office Mgr/Social Media Ex employed through the end of their To build buzz for the site launch, great oppty to work in face paced shrm terms. WWD is part of Condé Nast, ModMods recently unveiled a Twitter must have excellent comm skills, [email protected] multitask, sales exp, entry level room which declined comment. Hearst feed and a Facebook page. Hunt noted for growth email - [email protected] did not comment on the status of its the site, which is to generate revenues internship program. — ERIK MAZA via advertising, would also be promoted via Metro newspapers, which reach an MOD SQUAD: Swedish media company estimated 18 million print readers daily (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Metro International is gearing up to in 23 countries. — MILES SOCHA ReplaCe COttON aNd yOu may have tO ReplaCe CustOmeRs.

Consumers are fed up with manufacturers replacing cotton with unreliable and uncomfortable fabrics. Now they’re starting to take action. During New York Fashion Week, they joined mannequins in protesting the substitution of cotton and demanded cotton or nothing. And it doesn’t stop there. Consumers continue to join the protest at cottonornothing.com, where they’re sharing their grievances towards mystery fabrics. So if you’re thinking of replacing cotton to keep your costs down, you may want to think again.

Follow the protest and see what consumers are saying at: CottonOrNothing.com

AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. © 2013 Cotton Incorporated.