DECEMBER 2012 the complete guide to go® ®

wheremilan.com

Courtesy of Excelsior Milano

SPARKLING

IN MILAN Shopping, Dining and Entertainment don’t miss what’s new in the city WHERE MILAN PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

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CONTAINS GENERAL AND THEMATIC MAPS OF MILAN Milan December 2012 where tip the guide

Amore and Psiche 22 shopping first time ever in Milan Boutiques & Passion Shops Listings will open its doors Major shopping areas and our choice to the public for the traditional of the best speciality stores exhibition organized by Eni in partnership with the Louvre and 42 dining the Municipality of Milan. Until 13 January 2013, for the first time in Dining Listings Milan, visitors will have a chance to Listings by type of cuisine admire the masterpieces by Antonio Canova Amore e Psiche stanti as well as François Gérard’s painting Psyché et 51 entertainment l’Amour, displayed for the occasion Entertainment & Nightlife Listings in the Sala Alessi. The latest information about how to enjoy Open daily 9.30 am-8 pm, your stay in Milan Thursday until 10.30pm. 56 Museums & Attractions Palazzo Marino, , 2. Museums & Attractions Listings T: 800 149617. Major sightseeing attractions plus museums www.comune.milano.it and events

60 essentials Transport and useful information Tips for getting around and about in the city

62 map 4 All About Gifts Milan map Tips from Where Milan’s fashion contributor Alisa Auns: items and places where you can find brilliant ideas that will make your holiday truly special. 6 Tips From Friends Also Inside Where Milan meets Zhang Xian, music Director of the Verdi Orchestra in Milan. 08 Hot Dates 10 City Billboard 7 Entertainment & Art 34 Welcome to Brera News and events for your spare time... 44 Golden Restaurants 48 Top hotel restaurants 12 Beauty 64 Enjoy Lugano The perfect gift idea at la Rinascente

DECEMBER 2012 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO® Milan ® on the cover 14 Where to Buy © courtesy of Excelsior Milano wheremilan.com Ideas and suggestions for an elegant glitter total look.

Courtesy of Excelsior Milano

16 Discovering Excelsior Milano SPARKLING

IN MILAN SHOPPING, A shopping experience by Alysa Zhang, Chinese DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT DON’T MISS WHAT’S NEW IN THE CITY WHERE MILAN PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

TOWARDS contributor of Where Milan and lover of Italian style. CONTAINS GENERAL AND THEMATIC MAPS OF MILAN 18 What’s New in the City Enter a whole new world of fashion and entertainment Connect with us online with Milan’s latest openings and temporary shops.

wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz online from our local editors.

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WHERE MILAN WHERE MILAN under the claim “Milano Loves You”, which, in a nutshell, sums up the spirit published by: PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY of hospitality that our city offers international guests, Where Milan will Where Italia srl Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. be entering its third year. Over the past 24 months we have chalked up T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 an incredible series of achievements that have established Where® as the [email protected] www.wheremilan.com best-known “what’s on” editorial brand in the city. Each month we distribute publisher and editor-in-chief 25,000 copies of our magazine to provide you, our international visitor, with Andrea Jarach ([email protected]) up-to-date information, gathered by our expert editorial staff, on all events, editorial (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE srl) shows, museums, restaurants and shopping venues across the city. MANAGING DIRECTOR proedi comunicazione Daniele Misrachi EDITORial coordination Alessandra Finzi After the magazine came our specialized Guides on Design, Nature and ([email protected]) TWO HEARTS. REAL PRECISION. Restaurants recommended by Concierge, later followed by maps and magazine EDITORial staff Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Francesca Hasbani (city reporter), Stefania Vida the Montenapoleone Shopping Guide - now also available not only in (lifestyle and fashion editor) English, Chinese and Russian but also in Arabic and Japanese. There has not WEB EDITorial staff been one month that our publishing company has not given life to new Alessia Genovese (www.wheremilan.com), Elena Peverata (www.wheretraveler.com) products, or social initiatives such Run In Milan. We are setting out on our DESIGNER Elisabetta Giudici third year galvanized by a new energy and the passion of those who are CONTRIBUTORS & consultants Adriano Caramenti aware that their work is useful to thousands of readers and advertisers. (photographer), Floriana di Maio, Marco Gatti, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Gaetano Lopez, Giacomo Magistrelli, Andrea Milanesi, Carol Oberman, We are indebted to our partners for giving us the opportunity of Simone Pinter, David Ross (Hotelerie), Micol Sarfatti, Chiara Tarenzi (city reporter) distributing our products, free of charge, in their hotels. So, at this time, iconography Tips Images (www.tipsimages.com) on behalf of all of us, I’d like to extend my thanks to all of you. Above all, CARTOGRAPHY Mario Camerini, Compass Maps Ltd. (UK) I would like to thank the hotels and their great team of staff. Where® owes MARKETING & ADVERTISING Isa Faleschini, its success to the Concierge of Milan which it is certain it will be able to Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna Federico Cavicchioli (Soluzione d’Immagine), reciprocate with quality and credibility. Nicola Odone (Tedoforo) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto – Andrea JARACH Publisher, Where Milan PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli

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gennaio Printed by Arti Grafiche Mazzucchelli Spa 2013 ontenapoleone ontenapoleone Via CA’ Bertoncina, 37/41 – 24068 Seriate (BERGAMO) THE SHOPPING GUIDE La distribuzione di MontenapoleoneLa distribuzione by Where hotel di lusso, scelti in base a una specifica ric 1 2013 Live your Milan experience del circuito distributivo di “Where Milan”. E online a disposi 2 2012 montenapoleone.wheremilan.com by where milan è distribuito gratuitamente nei principali hotel Гастрономические avviene nelle camere di alcuni selezionati by удовольствия erca svolta in ottobre 2012 tra quelli e in alcune località selezionate ontenapoleone Armani Hotel Milano Милана. Время Seven Stars Galleria zione dei Concierge su Bulgari Hotels & Resorts Milano Hotel Principe di Savoiaустриц! Four Seasons Hotel Milano The Gray Milano Where® is also published in Rome by Tourist Media srl December 2012 Park Hyatt Milan n. 5 Hotel Manzoni Твой взгляд Boscolo Exedra Milano A Milano Hotel Milano Scala Carlton Hotel Baglioni Milano by на Hotel Galileo una nuova моду Starhotels Rosa Grand Il bouquet di Where NH President vetrina NH Milano Touring MORRIS visitor publications riservata agli

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Per saperne di più su Montenapoleone http://montenapoleone.wherem Andrea Jarach,Per ogni andrea.jarach@wh ulteriore informazione Daniele Misrachi, daniele.misrachi@whe William S. Morris III by Where Maria Granata, maria.granat ilan.com Courtesy oferemilan.com Giòsa Milano® Live your remilan.com exclusive Tel: 02 34995.1 [email protected] EDIZIONE IN LINGUA ARABA President Milan experience Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre® William S. Morris IV Подарок A gift from от вашего your hotel отеля 10 euro 10 euro WINTER МиланМилан MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE gennaio Chris Manning 2013 Join us on App Store Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any DUOMÈTRE À QUANTIÈME LUNAIRE. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381. consequences arising from errorsfont cohin or omissions. bold All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited logo nuovo_35x35.pdf 7-05-2008 21:36:47 The Dual-Wing concept is a genuine horological revolution featuring two distinct WHERE MILAN supports mechanisms synchronised by a single regulating organ. The patented jumping stop-seconds function enables time-setting to the nearest 1/6th of a second.

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2 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2012 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com Cool Gifts for Techno Lovers Milan For music fans, this year’s “must-have” gift is the “Diffusore SoundLink Bluetooth” from Bose (via Spadolini, 5 - www.bose.it). A mobile speaker that works wirelessly with your iPhone or laptop and provides a professional, powerful sound that will literally blow your mind (see photo). For the fast and furious, we recommend an “all-in-one” gift – the “Constellation Quest Ferrari” from Vertu (via Montenapoleone, 29 - www.vertu.com). All the passion of speed and design are revealed in this whereThe month’s top entertainment, dining and artsnow luxury smartphone, inspired by the Ferrari 458 Italia sports car (see photo). If you’re looking for something unique for that special woman, then High Tech (piazza XXV » FOCUS Aprile, 12 - www.high-techmilano.com) is the Smarter Ideas place to go. This large, multi-space emporium, All About Gifts Nothing is More Appealing located just a stone’s throw from Corso Como in for Health and Beauty the heart of the design district, offers thousands Every year, during the festive season, Picking a signature fragrance for a sentimental, passionate male friend than a Gourmet Goodie of exciting options. A “one-stop-shop” carrying is no easy task. You want the fragrance to capture the essence of the A great way of sharing your Italian food experience with family and homewear, kitchen gadgets and designer we are faced with the problem of finding person who will be wearing it, in this case a connoisseur of good taste friends back home is to take them a gift of prosciutto, artichokes or products. interesting and unusual gift ideas. and an adrenaline hunter. Bearing these characteristics in mind, I think olive oil which you can purchase from Peck, a landmark gastronomic Those in search of something a little more sophisticated should look no that your best bet would be “Collezione Barbiere” from Acqua di Something new that will surprise and institution (via Spadari, 9 - www.peck.it). Its 1st floor houses a wine cellar farther than the Skitsch design space (via Monte di Pietà, 11 - Parma (via Gesù, 1 - www.acquadiparma.it), one of the most luxurious, packed with an impressive range of local and international labels so that, www.skitsch.it). You’ll have a hard time tearing yourself away from this delight friends. Here are some tips about expensive and prestigious shaving creams available on the market when choosing a bottle, you will most definitely be spoilt for choice. exuberant interiors store that produces everything from storage and items and places where you can find today, produced, need I say, in the fatherland of “Il Barbiere di Siviglia”. If you’re looking to impress your significant other with a romantic beds to tabletop accessories and . Conversely, when pandering to the tastes of a metropolitan girl inspired gift, then choose Maison Ruinart’s “Vasca Miroir”, the result of brilliant ideas that will make your holiday by New York’s Soho – I would strongly suggest Etro’s Green Street collaboration between Ruinart, the oldest champagne house in the truly special. perfume line (via Bigli,2 - www.etro.com). world, and artist Herve Van Der Straeten (see photo). You can find this For a more sporty, though stylish lady, Vibram FiveFingers® now limited edition collection at Spazio Rossana Orlandi (via Matteo offers the “Classic Pailettes”, the ideal choice to embrace the freedom Bandello, 14 - T: 02 467447244). LOVER OF ITALIAN STYLE of barefooted adventure thanks to its Nothing goes better with champagne than chic Armani Dolci (via Russian journalist, fashion innovative, fashion forward design and Manzoni, 31 - armanidolci.com), even the most demanding sweet contributor of Where Milan and sequin-studded anatomical fit see( photo). tooth will be unable to resist this chocolate symphony conducted by lover of all things “Made in ”, Contemporary girls who are into Giorgio Armani. Alisa Auns gives us her take on a extreme sports will find a new paradise If you’re still not feeling completely satisfied, then head to the 7th floor shopping experience in Milan. at Salewa, a great store that sells an Food Market of famed la Rinascente department store (piazza Duomo array of products, equipment - www.rinascente.it) where you can enjoy all the traditional products of and accessories for all types of the Apennines. Olive oil, butter, pasta, sauces and a delectable array of mountain sports. black and white truffles. Conversely, the 1st floor of the contemporary Excelsior Milano (Galleria del Corso, 4 - www.excelsiormilano.com) carries all the necessary ingredients for a perfect Christmas dinner.

From Milan with Love Small Accessories A truly memorable gift is something typical that can only be found in Milan. For a unique gift, with an historical touch, head to F. Pettinaroli With a Big Heart When Italians give “pensieri”, or amazing small gifts, they always try to (piazza S. Fedele, 2 www.fpettinaroli.it), an exclusive stationery shop come up with something unusual and special. A good gift shows you founded in 1881. With products such as antique globes, maps, albums care enough about someone to really consider what they might like. Like and leather accessories, the brand will take customers in discovery of the gifts themselves, I really love this whimsical Italian word. new worlds. Giving a man a tie might not seem like anything special, however, if you For that urban dandy, look no farther than the Polsogemello boutique give him a Marinella tie (S. Maria alla Porta, 5 - www.marinellanapoli.it), (via Giovanni da Procida, 7 - www.polsogemello.com) where its then you know that you’ve hit the right spot. Politicians, famous actors attentive sales team will make sure that you select the right pair. The and important businessmen choose this Naples-based brand simply store also offers a bespoke service and will turn the world upside because it’s the best. down to find exactly what you’re looking for see( photo). Golden Stiffeners from Van Cleef & If you’re in search of something exotic with Italian character then make Arpels (via Pietro Verri,10 - a bee-line for Giòsa Milano (via Ciovasso, 6 - www.giosamilano.com) www.vancleef-arpels.com) will impress helmed by Giorgio Santamaria who makes dreams come true with his even the most discerning gentlemen. (see photo). fabulous crocodile or alligator items. A second-to-none choice for all For more serious types who seem to have everything, I would go types of tote bags and accessories. In fact, they reason that they don’t with a luxurious “Beckgammon game set” from Chopard (via della offer any lines or collections is because you are the designer! Spiga, 14 - www.chopard.com). This exclusive accessory, crafted in black wood, will enhance any fireside evening (see photo).

4 WHERE milan I december 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 5 where now Milan where now Milan

TIPS FROM FRIENDS ENTERTAINMENT & Art Zhang It’s Picasso Time Xian Paintings, sculptures, photographs and films tell the story of one of the most influential artists of the 20th century: Pablo Where Milan meets Picasso. For the third time around, Palazzo Reale hosts Zhang Xian, Conductor again an exhibition dedicated to the Spanish master, a vast of Milan’s Giuseppe Verdi anthology (curated by Anne Baldassari) of more than 200 works Orchestra who has chosen tracing the artist’s amazing career, from his so-called “Blue Milan as “her city” Period” to the last years of his life. “Pablo Picasso. Capolavori dal s t e p h a nie ber g er © Museo Nazionale Picasso di Parigi”. www.mostrapicasso.it. Palazzo Reale. Piazza Duomo, 12. Born in 1973 in Dandong, in Southern China, district, where I chose to live with my family T: 02 875672. M1-M3 Duomo. Zhang Xian began studying music at the age but also that of Porta Ticinese, with its small of 3, debuting, when she was just 20, at Beijing’s stores, artisan workshops and park where I Central Opera House. In 2002, she won first prize often take my son.

at the “Maazel-Vilar International Conductors’ Over the years, what have you learnt to DECEMBER Competition” in New York subsequently going appreciate most about the city? on, in April 2009, to become Music Director of the The right compromise between the frenetic This month will see the continuation of the intense Verdi Orchestra in Milan. On 7 December, 2012 rhythms of a large city and the more relaxed program of the 2012-2013 season of Milan’s “Giuseppe Zhang Xian will receive an Ambrogino d’Oro , an ones of its districts that still retain a more Verdi” Symphonic Orchestra; all concerts on the calendar will be held at Milan’s Largo Mahler-based Auditorium award presented annually by the City of Milan to intimate feeling. Furthermore, everyone di Milano Fondazione Cariplo. www.laverdi.org prominent figures for their contribution to cultural that I have met until now has always been and social causes. extremely friendly towards me, starting with my co-workers in the orchestra to friends, ■ Symphonic Season Nicola Olivieri, narrator What brought you to Milan ? right up to the hospital staff who took care 2 December Jader Bignamini, conductor When I was offered the role of Music Director of me during the recent birth of my second Ruben Jais, conductor Music by P.I. Tchaikovskij Music by J. Brahms, F. of the Verdi Orchestra I immediately saw it child. Schubert, F. Mendelssohn as a great opportunity: it meant that I could Where would you take out-of-town friends ■ ”Domenica mattina 13, 14, 16 December develop a personal dialogue with one of who are visiting Milan for the first time? Bouncy Castle Art installation con laVerdi” Enrico Dindo, cello 23 December Italy’s most important symphony orchestras The monumental complex of Basilica di Milan’s Hangar Bicocca is the place to go if you want to get Aldo Ceccato, conductor tangled up in three levels of thin, clear film hanging 20 metres “Schumann” in a cosmopolitan city, and I found this highly Sant’Eustorgio and the adjacent Portinari Music by A. Dvoràk Simone Pedroni, piano off the ground, transporting visitors into a new dimension. appealing. Chapel, one of the purest Renaissance 20, 21, 23 December Giuseppe Grazioli, This incredible installation called “On Space Time Foam” is What struck you most on arriving here? creations. David Fray, piano conductor the brainchild of Argentinian artist, Tomás Saraceno and is Milan captured my heart on account of its What’s the atmosphere like in Milan Ruben Jais, conductor Music by R. Schumann, scheduled to run at Hangar Bicocca until 3 February 2013. Music by F. Vacchi, A. Thomas, F. Berwald dual nature. Although it is renowned as in December, during the holidays of This 1,200 square metre construction will make visitors lose their W.A. Mozart the capital of industry, fashion, luxury and Sant’Ambrogio, the Immacolata and spatial coordination, leaving them scrambling between the design, like every Italian city, it boasts a rich the Christmas period? floor and the ceiling known as “earth” and “sky” and giving them 29, 30, 31 December ■ Special Concerts and 1 January 2013 artistic and cultural heritage. It is a city that There’s a spiritual feeling that I find truly the feeling of walking on air. www.hangarbicocca.org 6, 7, 9 December Zhang Xian, conductor “Italian Opera” District one discovers day after day, with its treasures, appealing because it’s less commercial than Music by L. van Beethoven Jader Bignamini, never outwardly flaunted, but guarded that of New York where everything revolves conductor jealously in palaces and churches. I am here around frenetic shopping. BODY WORLDS Music by G. Rossini, A “not-to.be-missed” event, if only to ■ ”laVerdi Barocca” referring, for example, to the triumph of Musically speaking, how are you planning G. Puccini, G. Verdi, judge the controversies sparked in every 12 December G. Donizetti, frescoes found in the Church of San Maurizio on celebrating Christmas and the part of the globe where the exhibition Ruben Jais, conductor P. Mascagni, F. Cilea or Bramante’s fake transept at Santa Maria New Year? Body Worlds has debuted, attracting Music by A. Corelli, A. Vivaldi 16 December

presso San Satiro, a jewel of architecture. On 29, 30 and 31 December and on 1 a b l o Pic sso © S uccession by SI A E 2012 thousands of visitors. Pietro Cavedon, piano Until 17 February, 2013. Open Mon-Sun Milan’s soul gradually enters into your very January I will be conducting Beethoven’s ■ ”Crescendo in Musica” Maria Teresa Tramontin, being. Ninth Symphony, a time-honoured European 10am-8pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-11pm. 15 December Master of the Choir Fabbrica del Vapore Which are the magical places in the city tradition that was actually imported into Italy “The Nutcracker” Music by B. Britten Via Procaccini 4. where you enjoy spending your free time? by the Verdi Orchestra; then at home with my Christmas market T: 02 313499. One of my favourite places is the Navigli husband and children! L a course, 1922 by P De Luna Photos www.bodyworlds.it

6 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 7 THIS MONTH in MILAN Hot Dates December 2012 FRIDAY 7 SATURDAY 1 IN THE NAME OF LOVE. For the first time in Opening Night at Milan, Palazzo Marino will host masterpieces Wagner’s “Lohengrin” will inaugurate the new 2012/2013 opera by Antonio Canova “Amore e Psiche stanti” as season at Teatro alla Scala, which will also be celebrating the well as renowned painting by François Gérard “Psyché et l’Amour”. www.comune.milano.it bicentenary of the birth of two famous composers, Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner. “Lohengrin” will be conducted SUNDAY 9 Anniversary exclusive. The 8th edition by Maestro Daniel Barenboim (see photo) with direction by of the “Salone del Libro Usato” will be held at Claus Guth (www.teatroallascala.org). Ask your Concierge. Milan’s fieramilanocity fairgrounds with an offer of more than 100,000 literary works of all types and genres. www.salonelibrousatomilano.com

WEDNESDAY 12 FOOD FOR CHARITY. Milan’s sophisticated Châteaux Monfort hotel will host a charity event (a cocktail with an exclusive food tasting) for the OrphanAID Africa non-profit organization supporting children in Ghana. Ask your concierge.

FRIDAY 14 INDIAN ART IN MILAN. The Triennale Design Museum continues the series dedicated to new international design with New India Designscape: a selection of works by contemporary designers. At the MINI&Triennale CreativeSet space. www.triennale.it

SUNDAY 16 MUSIC AND THEATRE. At this month’s eagerly awaited “Aperitivo in Concerto”, flautist and composer Nicole Mitchell & Black Earth Ensemble will enthral audiences with an exclusive performance at Teatro Manzoni. www.aperitivoinconcerto.com THURSDAY 6 WEDNESDAY 19 Traditional GOSPEL PERFORMANCE. Sing along with Justin Blair & The Soulful Gospel Singers Market Time at Blue Note in via Borsieri. www.bluenotemilano.com Milan’s traditional “Oh Bej! Oh Bej!”Christmas fair will be back again, TUESDAY 25 this year, in the area lying adjacent MERRY CHRISTMAS. Today is one of the Marine Chronometer Manufacture to . Boasting most joyful religious holiday in Italy and almost innumerable stalls selling sweet everything will be closed, museums included. Manufacture chronometer movement with treats and handcrafted items, it dates Silicium technology. Self-winding. Water-resistant back to 1510 and coincides with the MONDAY 31 YEAR-END. New Year’s Eve is marked by a celebrations for the city’s patron saint, to 200 m. 18ct rose gold case. Available also on rubber Pisa Orologeria Sant’Ambrogio. number of fabulous initiatives. Make sure to Milano - Via Pietro Verri (ang. Montenapoleone 9) strap or gold bracelet. Limited Edition of 350 pieces. www.comune.milano.it book ahead if you’re thinking of celebrating T. +39 02 762 081 - www.pisaorologeria.com the end of the year in true Milanese style. Gioielleria Rocca Milano - Piazza Duomo 25 don’t miss visiting www.wheremilan.com before leaving: every week something new in the city! WWW.ULYSSE-NARDIN.COM T. +39 02 805 7447 - www.rocca1794.com

8 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2012 City Billboard December 2012 NOT-TO-BE-MISSED in MILAN

Palazzo Reale museo del OUT OF TOWN  Until 17 March 2013 novecento  Until 7 January 2013 COSTANTINO 313 D.C.  Until 3 March 2013 LE GRANDI FERRARI Celebrating the anniversary “collezionare il novecento” DI SERGIO PININFARINA of the Edict of Milan Claudia Gian Ferrari gallerista, AT FERRARI MUSEUM, MARANELLO (MO) www.comune.milano.it collezionista e storica dell’arte. museo.ferrari.com Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri and Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri and Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. Thurs and Sat 9.30am-9.30pm. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 92800375. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 www.museodelnovecento.org www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale  Until 6 January 2013 FABBRICA pablO picasso. Capolavori DEL VAPORE dal Museo Nazionale Picasso di Parigi  Until 17 February 2013 Open Mon-Wed 8.30am-7.30pm; BODY WORlDS Thurs-Sun 9.30am-11.30pm Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm; www.mostrapicasso.it Thurs and Sat 10am-11pm. Via Procaccini, 4. Map E2. CASTELLO www.fabbricadelvapore.org SFORZESCO  Until 6 January 2013 FAIRS DA PINOCCHIO A HARRY POTTER  1-9 December Free admittance. Open Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. AF. l’artigiano in fiera Piazza Castello, 1 (Sala Viscontea). 17th International Crafts M1-M2 Cadorna FN; M1 Cairoli; Selling Exhibition M2 Lanza.Map E4. at rho fairground www.milanocastello.it www.artigianoinfiera.it  7-9 December salone del libro usato Second-hand Book Exhibition at FIERAMILANOCITY world’s premier opera house www.salonelibrousato.com offers a rich program. www.teatroallascala.org blue note milano 3 mozart, handel, rossini;  6, 7 and 8 December C. Bartoli, Orchestra Filarmonica james tailor quartet della Scala, conductor D. Barenboim  11, 12 and 13 December  4, 7, 11, 14, 18, 21, 27 wagner; the three ladies of blues Lohengrin; conductor D. Barenboim,  19 and 20 December director C. Guth justin blair & the soulful 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 debussy; gospel singers pf. A. Planès  21 and 22 December 19, 28, 29, 30 berlioz, Roméo Chiara Civello et Juliette (ballet); conductor  From 26 to 31 December J. Conlon angels in harlem gospel choir  20 berlioz; Orchestra Sinfonica Via Pietro Borsieri, 37. Map F1. Teatro alla Scala, conductor R. Ticciati

I MAG E © LA NOCHE www.bluenotemilano.com

Run every day in Milan with our MILANO LOVES YOU friendly volunteer runners Enjoy the city, give happiness and give help raise funds for young cancer patients. www.runinmilan.com

10 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2012 where now Milan

BEAUTY 1.

Perfect Gift Ideas 2. 11. at la Rinascente

The perfect gift that can surprise, amuse and thrill. A piece of design that will make you fall in love; an exquisite fragrance that will trigger your memories. It’s where tradition meets creative whim; giving tradition a novel appeal with innovative and sophisticated ideas. A multitude of charming decors that will fill your home with a magic vibe. A vast array of readily available services that can make your Christmas 10. shopping fun and easy. A unique mix of talent and passion that has always 3. made la Rinascente a point of reference and the perfect place to discover exclusive items, novelties at their first showing and a neverending line up of gift ideas. All this in an enchanting Christmas atmosphere that spreads a bit of its magic to everyone.

la Rinascente’s ground floor is dedicated to high-end Beauty products, where you can find the most sophisticated collections of fragrances for him and for her, plus a range of uber-glam cosmetic lines, several of which are available in limited special editions developed especially for la Rinascente. Some ideas for your gift shopping: Jo Malone Christmas box (1), Acqua di Parma Colonia (2), CoffretPrada Luna Rossa (3), Dior J’adore L’Absolu 4. 9. Artist Edition with numbered bottle created by the French sculptor Jean- Michel Ot honiel (la Rinascente exclusive, 4), Eau Sauvage Dior (5), Chanel 2012 Christmas collection (6), Estée Lauder - Michael Kors Gun Metal (la Rinascente exclusive, 7), La Prairie Caviar Luxe Cream limited edition (8), The Fragrance Kitchen (la Rinascente exclusive, 9), La Mer The Ageless Collection Christmas box (10), Fan di Fendi EDP deluxe limited edition with leather case (11) .

Top make-up brands are at your disposal for an 5. exclusive, free session with a Make Up Artist, who will offer you a perfect tailor-made look. Call 02 88521 now to book your exclusive session at la Rinascente.

www.rinascente.it. Milano, piazza Duomo. 8. Open daily. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 6.

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12 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2012

Rina_Natale12_WhereMilan_Beauty.indd 1 19/11/12 19.41 where now Milan » SHOPPING

Where to Buy 1. The festive season calls for a total look that’s all about glam and glitter, as this month brings us 2. brilliant colours for non-stop partying! 3. FARAONE White gold pendant and rings Faraone Gioielli 1. Via Montenapoleone, 9 3. T: 02 76319153 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 www.faraonegioielli.it

4. DIOR 4. Black dress with sequened embroidery Dior Via Montenapoleone, 12 T: 02 76317801 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 1. TOY WATCH www.dior.com Gala Glitter with baguette cut Swarovski Elements 5. HERMÈS Toy Watch New “L’Ambre des Merveilles” fragrance Via Montenapoleone, 25 Hermès Boutique T: 02 76005996 Via Sant’Andrea, 21 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 T: 02 76003495 www.toy-watch.com M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 www.hermes.com 2. BOTTEGA VENETA Oro Intreccio metal knot 6. SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS Bottega Veneta High-heeled jeweled sandals Via Montenapoleone, 5 by René Caovilla - Sparkling Contrasts T: 02 76024495 collection (Swarowski Elements) M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 la Rinascente www.bottegaveneta.com Milano, Piazza Duomo T: 02 88521 M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 www.larinascente.it

6.

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14 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2012 where now Milan

tips FROM FRIENDS Discovering Excelsior Milano

Chinese fashion contributor contemporary fashion label known for its clean lines and luxurious simple clothing. of Where Milan and lover of Italian style, Alysa Zhang Just near the elevator, in a dramatically visual gives us her take on a theatre-like setting, I came upon the men’s world boasting a contemporary British aesthetic and shopping experience a delightful range of winter jackets, jumpers, T-shirts, jeans and shoes as well as my favourite item on this floor – vintage-inspired, handcrafted pieces and nude dress. While still reeling from I am constantly amazed by the Excelsior Milano’s Globe Trotter suitcases, available in a range of this breathtaking haute couture wonderland, interior details and arty ideas that embellish chic colours and sizes for the discerning traveller! I ascended to the top floor for one of the most the seven floors of this trendy concept store. The second floor also houses a great mix of heady experiences in high-end accessories where However, one of its main attractions are the sporty, chic brands and features big-names in my eyes alighted upon the stunning Christian Antonia floors, a fashion lover’s playground, fashion like Givenchy, Henry Lloyd, Kenzo and Louboutin window featuring his signature, stocking a mix of designer outfits. Excelsior Neil Barrett, high-quality and T-shirts from shiny, red lacquered shoes. Conversely, if you’re Milano’s two-floor basement level hosts a Edwin and YMC right up to the more down-to- in search of something really special, there’s now gourmet delicatessen and a slow food bistrot. earth Nike and Vans sneakers. way you’ll be able to resist Manolo Blahnik’s And, then, of course, there are 5 floors dedicated Hangisi creations. One of the highlights on this to beauty and perfume, clothing and accessories, For more sophisticated women in the know, floor is a table showcasing Repetto ballerina what more could a girl ask for? the higher floors are a “must-visit” destination. pumps, surrounded by Valentino clutches, Fashion-conscious ladies will be bowled over by Céline shoes, Givenchy bags, René Caovilla The ground floor features an array of high-tech Isabel Marant’s complete collection of delicate patent studded glitter sole heels, Church’s retro gadgets that are sure to solve the headache of blouses, leather pants and evening shawls, school shoes -once again boasting a strong British picking out a gift for those fashion-conscious Dries Van Noten’s dark session, Meteo by Yves flavour - and Sergio Rossi’s sexy black heels that male dandies. A Tiffany&Co. counter, decked Salomon’s exotic glory and Rick Owen’s vintage literally took my breath away! out in a minty green colour, is the perfect place to purchase a meaningful gift at, what’s more, much Tasty Gifts lower prices than in mainland China (remember In Chinese culture, eating is a No.1 priority and you can tax refund!). On your left, French macaron never go wrong if you bring something Italian back as a specialists Ladurée, tempt you in with their gift. Excelsior Milano offers a number of impressive items delectable array of sweet treats. at budget-range prices. What’s more, if you’re in search of that perfume that makes you feel like a million dollars than 10 Euros-Coming from China, it’s hard to believe that make sure to stop by the Olfattorio Bar à several of the fine, select wines displayed on this well- Parfums located on the ground floor. stocked shelf actually cost under 10 Euros. 100 Euros-Bottles of pickles and spices are set out On reaching the Icon Contemporary area on the like perfumes; in fact, just looking at them makes your first floor, you will find yourself salivating over mouth water. I was specially impressed to notice that Helmut Lang’s eccentric though daringly elegant instructions in Chinese are tagged next to several items, collection one of whose standout pieces includes thus inducing me to purchase a special pot of honey promising medicinal functions as well as a a stunning leather jacket. Other innovative brands large bar of European chocolate to take home to my family. that set my heart beating were Haute Hippie, a 1000 Euros- You don’t have to spend this much unless you’re a true connoisseur of rare wines EXTRAORDINARY DEPARTMENT STORE D E L UN A

lifestyle brand that transcends fashion and types and champagne! Remember to ask the cashier to wrap your gifts with Eat’s logo paper and © and Theory, a New York-based men and women’s bows, to add that extra touch of pizzazz to your unforgettable shopping spree.

P HO T O GALLERIA DEL CORSO, 4

16 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2012

Where Milano207x277.indd 1 30/07/12 15.40 where now Milan New Look for Chopard What’s New The Swiss brand, famed throughout the world for its refined timepieces and jewellery collections, has opened the doors of its recently refurbished boutique in . Talented French architect Thierry W. Despont has managed to create a perfect meld of 150 in the City years of uncompromising traditional craftsmanship with a love for modern technology. The boutique’s two floors are connected by a bold crystal staircase, with reflections designed to create a truly unique atmosphere: the ground floor houses the Chopard Uomo collection, with one space, in particular, dedicated to the LUC, 1000 Miglia and Manifacture collections. In fact, the new Milanese Chopard boutique is the only one in the world to boast a Men’s Crocodile Cult by Room of this kind. The first floor is home to the accessories room, a room dedicated to its Women’s collections and a VIP room featuring the Maison’s most exclusive pieces of high- Colombo Via della Spiga class jewellery and haute horologerie. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.chopard.com. Via della Spiga, 14. T: 02 76394950. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4. Not a boutique, but a refined gallery created to highlight all the elegance of the brand’s uber- sophisticated collections A Meld of Fashion and Poetry: of bags and small leather items. In fact, following in-depth restyling, the new Colombo monobrand store has “nonostantemarras” re-opened in Via della Spiga. The new flagship store of the On stepping into the “nonostantemarras” space, customers will find themselves Milanese brand is spread out over two floors where a clever surrounded by seemingly different and contrasting “objets retrouvés”. The brainchild manipulation of light brings its collection into focus. Its of innovative Italian designer Antonio Marras, this multi-functional space features a window display showcases the icon bags that have made library, a cafè, a boutique and a bookstore where visitors can chat, gossip, look for ideas Colombo famous throughout the world, including the and inspiration, devise projects and encounter artists and writers while enjoying the Odeon model, entirely handcrafted in the crocodile cult inebriating aromas of coffee and tea. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. version proposed in a range of diverse colours. www.antoniomarras.it. Via Cola di Rienzo, 8. T: 02 89075002. Map C6 Must-haves for the 2012 spring/summer season are, in fact, vibrant colours; other novelties also include a limited edition clutch version decorated with precious stones. TEMPORARY STORES Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.colomboviadellaspiga.it. Via della Spiga, 9.T: 02 76023587. POMELLATO 67 www.bmw-motorrad.it M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4. Jewellery la Rinascente, piazza Duomo Until March 2013 M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 www.pomellato.com Via Sant’Andrea, 17 carhartt M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Sportswear Until 15 January 2013 DISCOVER THE COLLECTIONS BMW MOTORRAD www.carhartt.com thestyleoutlets.com Sportswear Via P. Paoli, 3/5 WITH DISCOUNTS Until 15 February 2013 M2 Porta Genova FS. Map D7 FROM 30% TO 70%.

AND MORE... 50 32 0321 83 - Tel. Via Associazione di P.A.R.O.S.H. Elisabetta Franchi Fashion clothes for women Women’s clothing www.parosh.it www.elisabettafranchi.it Via Santo Spirito, 14 Via Manzoni, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Salewa Alcoliche Alchimie Sportswear (Cadenhead’s Whisky Bar) www.salewa.it Whisky and distillates Corso Garibaldi, 59 www.alcolichealchimie.it M2 Moscova. Map E3 Via Procaccini, 3. Map D2

Angelo Nardelli 1951 Versatile Gallery Men’s clothing Innovative interior design www.nardelli1951.it www.versatilegallery.com Via Plinio, 1 Via dell’Annunciata, 12 M1 Lima. Map H2 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Giuseppe Zanotti RAW High-fashion shoes for women Vintage and contemporary design 150 shops open 7 days a week, from 10 am to 8 pm. www.giuseppezanottidesign.com www.rawmilano.it 30 minutes from Milan and Malpensa Airport. MI-TO Exit Biandrate/Vicolungo

Via Montenapoleone,12. Via Palermo, 1 SHUTTLE BUS ROUND TRIP · MILAN > VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS · FOR BOOKING WWW.ZANIVIAGGI.IT · INFOLINE +39 02867131 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 M2 Moscova. Map F2 Where-Milan-mezza-Ott2012.indd 1 18/10/12 11:11 18 WHERE milan I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 19 THE BEST JEWELRY AND WATCHES SINCE 1794

BARI - CATANIA - LECCE - LUGANO - MANTOVA - MILANO - PADOVA - PESCARA - ROMA - SHANGHAI - TAORMINA - TORINO - VENEZIA www.rocca1794.com Rocca represents and offers the most prestigious brands in its boutiques, in compliance with agreed distributor rights.

WHERE MILAN 207x277.indd 1 19/10/12 16.07 207x277_D_ICON_ROCCA_19_10.indd 1 19/10/12 12.05 Shopping

Guidelines Books & Magazines Guests Choice This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the AMERICAN BOOKSTORE—Situated just in front of These are the top-ranking editors of Where Magazine and includes regular where the Castello Sforzesco, for the past 30 years, this brands rated best, last month, by advertisers. The most popular luxury brands popular bookstore has been a reference point and designers stores are grouped under the for English-speaking readers. Ancient books and international guests shopping at the guide separate lisiting top brands, which can be prints department. A selection of original items exclusive locations in the city*. found on pages 24-25. from all over the world. Open Mon 1.30pm-7pm; • Prada Shopping Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Largo Cairoli corner of via MAP LOCATIONS M. Camperio. T: 02 878920. M1 Cairoli. Map E4 • la Rinascente Note that references in bold at the end of each • D&G listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on FNAC—An internationally renowned French • Giorgio Armani the street maps on pages 62-63. chain, it offers three floors featuring a vast range of products: books (also available in foreign • Gucci INFORMATION languages) CDs, DVDs, videogames, cell phones, • Visitors should note that VAT is generally 21% MP3, IT, TV, Hi-Fi, cameras and camcorders, a ticket • Chanel and it is generally included in the price of service, photo printing, bar and Internet Point.

goods. Before finalizing a purchase, overseas Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8pm; Sun 10am-8pm. • Louis Vuitton visitors from outside the EU should ask the www.fnac.it. Via Torino, 45. T: 02 869541. • Etro shop assistant whether they are eligible for M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori. Map F5 a tax refund. Shopping hours are generally • Ermenegildo Zegna

from 9.30am to 7.30pm; less centrally located La Feltrinelli Express—A brand new sales point *From a survey conducted by the concierges

shops still take the traditional lunch break from extending over 2500 sq.m. located inside the of several of the city’s most important hotels regarding 12.30pm or 1pm to 3pm or 4pm. Most shops Stazione Centrale. Spread out over several floors, the purchases made by their international guests. are closed on Sundays (except those located in it offers books, CDs, DVDs, multimedia items, central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Make stationery and the largest selection of paperbacks sure to always ahead. Several unusual in the city in original language versions. On the

shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors ground floor, dedicated to travelers, you can find Thirties, offers a selection of 65 thousand books, and aficionados in specific product categories, an international newsstand and a wide selection CDs, DVDs and games. The top floor is used for are listed under Passion Shopping rather than www.fabrianoboutique.com of guides and books on art and local history. The presentations and events. Open Mon-Sun 7am- in the standard Shopping sections. Via Ponte Vetero, 17 second floor is given over to infants and children 10pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Stazione Centrale. while the third, boasting original frescoes from the T: 02 6679031. M1-M3 Centrale. Map G2 T: 02 76318754. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm, Sun 11am-7pm.

M1 Cairoli. Map F4 Member of

Si colora di rosso il Natale di Fabriano Boutique: idee regalo per grandi e piccini All That Gifts From Fabriano Just a fewFabriano more Boutique days presenta and oggetti it will piccoli be e grandi, 2013… seri e atspiritosi Fabriano da mettere sottoBoutique l’albero il giorno everything di Natale. is ready to welcome in Agende, penne, portafogli, astucci, biglietti d’auguri e quaderni rosso fiammanti: regali originali che rendono the newspeciali year anche with i più stylesemplici and gesti quotidiani fantasy,. thanks to rigorously “Made-in-Italy” creations boasting an innovative design: desk, pocket and travel diaries and weekly or monthly organizers, in fabric and leather. Original gifts suitable for all occasions, toper make lei even the simplest, everyday gestures, truly special! CHRISTMAS EXPERIENCE Nuovo portafoglio donna In pelle di vitello pieno fiore, tinta in botte. Chiusura con zip, tagli interni orizzontali, tasche a soffiettounrepeatable e tasca porta masterpiece, monete. created with an “Made-in-Italy” items: bags, footwear, belts, Your luxury For more detailed listings, please see Nei colori:artisan rosso, touch, nero, thearancio result e marroneof in-depth research that luggage, costume jewellery and jewellery. A www.wheretraveler.com harmonizes fabrics, materials and colours. Open perfect example of time-honoured Italian artisan personal shopper in Milan Mon-Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am- tradition. The chain has other stores in Milan. Open 7pm. www.borsalino.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. www..it. Corso Buenos Accessories 92. T: 02 89015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 Aires, 22 corner of via Omboni. T: 02 2043319. Angela Caputi Giuggiù—The brand is renowned M1 Porta Venezia. Map H3

throughout the world. Sophisticated, original CRUCIANI C—After Verona, Madrid and the jet-set

creations made from unusual materials such as resorts of Capri, Taormina and Forte dei Marmi, VILLA MEISSEN®—Drawing thousands of visitors all plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects Cruciani C has opened its 6th monobrand over the world each year, Meissen® has created both in termsper of chicolour viaggia and shape. Her creations store. Located in the highly central via Manzoni, a unique life-style experience with home, fine have been usedDouble as accessories Pocket by famous television customers can now purchase the highly sought- art, porcelain, accessories, and the most recent GoldBlack Style In vitello pieno fiore tinto in botte, con cerniere e tiralampo and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, after bracelets that, for one year, have embellished Meissen® Joaillerie collection, combining a meld Luxury Personal Shopper and Image Consultant capable of creatingdi colori adiversi: look or ideale dressing quando up siany è in type viaggio per dividerethe wrists of trendsetters the world over, elegant of exclusive materials such as porcelain, gold of garment. Adocumenti, magical blend biglietti, of scontrini contemporary e valute anddiverse. arm candy made from silk, screen printed PVC, soft, and precious stones, exemplifying the brand's classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. brightly coloured pashminas in cashmere, silk and supreme craftsmanship. This 300 year-old Showroom & Office Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. and footwear. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; German luxury brand has recently refurbished Galleria Strasburgo 3 www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11. Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.cruciani.. Via Manzoni, Casa Carcassola-Grandi as the location for its (Piazza San Babila), Milano T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4 19. T: 02 89093864. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 stunning European Flagship store. Tel. 02 39680604

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www.meissen.it. Manuela Faganelli Borsalino—Historic Italian company synonymous Furla—Contemporary luxury and a discreet, Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 89423725. mobile +39 338 2032234 with “hats” the world over. Each piece is an elegant style. A wide assortment of exclusively M1 San Babila. Map G4 www.goldblackstyle.com Where covers more than 100 global travel destinations, from Singapore to San Francisco, LA to London, Miami to Milan and great places in between. PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE

22 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 23 14. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3 JIL SANDER—www.jilsander.com. Open Mon-Sat (Woman). T: 02 7771771 / Via Montenapoleone, Montenapoleone. Map G4 10am-7pm. Via P. Verri, 6. T: 02 7772991. M1 San 6 (Man). T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone. Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 18 corner of via ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna. Sant'Andrea, 23 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com. Open 780465. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3 Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A. T: 02 Montenapoleone. Map F4 45481770. M1 San Babila. Map G4 RALPH LAUREN—www.ralphlauren.com. Open Top Brands Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, ETRO—www.etro.it. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. KENZO—www.kenzo.com. Open Mon-Sat 9am- 4. T: 02 7788721. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni, 25. T: 02 Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 72080735. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 42. Fay—www.fay.it. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am- —www.krizia.it. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; T: 02 76020900. M3 Montenapoleone. Map 7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 15. T: 02 76017597. M1 Tue-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 23. T: 02 G4 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 76008429. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 ROCCO BAROCCO—www.roccobarocco.it. Open FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Thurs LES COPAINS—www.lescopains.it. Open Mon Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 31. T: 02 9.30am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm. Via 3pm-7pm Tue-Sat 10am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni, 76000518. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Sant’Andrea, 16. T: 02 8852236. M1 San Babila. 21. T: 02 72080092. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO—www.ferragamo. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti. —www.loropiana.com. Open 7pm. (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 76000054. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • (Man) Via 2pm, 3pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 27/c. T: 02 7772901. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660. M1 San Montenapoleone. Map F4 Babila. Map F4 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- GIANFRANCO FERRÈ—www.gianfrancoferre. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11.30am- 7.30pm; Sun 1-7pm. Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 it. Open Mon-Sun 9am-6pm by appointment. 7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711. 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Via Pontaccio, 21. T: 02 721341. M2 Lanza Brera- M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria Vittorio 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 . Map F3 Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011. M1-M3 Duomo. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.giorgioarmani.com. Map G4 TOM FORD—www.tomford.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via P. Verri, 3. T: 02 Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 36529600. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 76003234. 7pm. Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta. Map G4 M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila. Map G4 One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from Trussardi—www.trussardi.it. Concept Store: food to home accessories. Via A. Manzoni. MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm. Piazza della Map F4 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-9pm. Via Sant’Andrea, Scala, 5. T: 02 8068821. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 21 - T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 • Accessories: Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm. Via GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am- Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via Sant’Andrea, Sant’Andrea, 5. T: 02 8068821. M1 San Babila, 7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1 San San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Open Mon- Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Open • Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 10am-

© Tips Images Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10pm c/o La Rinascente, Piazza Duomo. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 10am-7pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. 55028800. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

T: 02 8597991. M1, M3 Duomo. Map G4 VERSACE—www.versace.com. Open Mon-Sun ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— CESARE PACIOTTI—www.cesare-paciotti. MOSCHINO—www.moschino.it. Open Mon-Sat Milan is known as one of the 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 www.albertaferretti.com. Open Mon-Sat com. Women: Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via HermÈs—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 12. T: 02 76000832. shopping capitals of the world. 10am-7pm. Via Montanapoleone, 18. Sant’Andrea, 8. T: 02 76001338. M1 San Babila, 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76003495. 76008528. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Open Mon-Sat Map G4 Although high-end purchases T: 02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Men: Open M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 10am -7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 30. T: 02 76004320. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 8/A. T: 02 • Hermès Aeroporto di Milano-Aeroporto di M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 YVES SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open can be made in any part of the 76001164. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. ASPESI—www.aspesi.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Malpensa Terminal 1. T:02 58581265. Off Map Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- 7pm. Via city, several urban areas are also Map G4 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open Mon-Sat Via Montenapoleone, 13. T: 02 76022478. Gesù,4. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 hogan—www.hoganworld.com. Open Mon- 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Corso Venezia, entirely given over to the business M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 3. T: 02 76001426. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • ZILLI—www.zilli.fr. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T: 02 782514- of luxury shopping. First and 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65. T: 02 876979. 7pm. Via Gesù, 5. T: 02 49541950. M3 BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Open Mon- 76016545. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 M1 Duomo. Map G4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 Montenapoleone. Map G4 foremost, the Quadrilatero della Sat 10am-7pm. Via Santo Spirito, 19. T: 02 760841. Map G4 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Moda, set amidst four of Milan’s CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com. Open most expensive and prestigious BLUMARINE—www.blumarine.com. Open Mon Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7.30pm. 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 42. Inventiveness Meets Creativity shopping streets, namely via Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794. M1 San SPOTLIGHT T: 02 795081. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Babila. Map G4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Jaeger-LeCoultre has designed the Rendez-Vous line for Montenapoleone, via Manzoni, via Sun 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm. Galleria Vittorio BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon- women: women have a date with time, their own time, enjoying della Spiga and corso Venezia. Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am-7pm. Emanuele II, 84. T: 02 72094454. M1-M3 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92. T: 02 89015436. Duomo. Map G4 each moment of the day with verve and enthusiasm, displaying It is here that the most important M1 Duomo. Map F4 fashion designers offer their DIOR—www.diorcouture.com. Open Mon- self-assured determination in order to perpetually reinvent BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 12. themselves. Each minimum detail of this line conveys a sense of luxurious creations. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, T: 02 76317801. Map G4. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Beyond the Quad itself, shoppers 5. T: 02 76024495. M1 San Babila, M3 femininity: its perfectly matched case and dial provide the perfect Montenapoleone. Map G4 can visit other districts such DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it. backdrop for its mechanical movement. The automatic calibre, CARSHOE—www.carshoe.com. Open Mon-Sat Men: open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Corso entirely developed, crafted and assembled in the Jaeger-LeCoultre as the Duomo-corso Vittorio 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via della Venezia, 15. T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila. Map Emanuele II-Galleria-via Dante Spiga, 1. T: 02 76024027. M1 San Babila. Map G4 G4 • Women: open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via workshops, stages a day/night indicator featuring handcrafted della Spiga, 26. T: 02 76001155. M1 San Babila. area, Brera and Solferino, Map G4 • Accessories: via della Spiga, 2. T: 02 guilloche worksmanship in full respect of the most authentic CASADEI BOUTIQUE— CL9000007322www.casadei.com. Via 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4 with corso Garibaldi and corso tradition of Haute Horologerie. Sant’Andrea, 1. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. T: 02 Como or the Vercelli-Belfiore- 76318293. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com. Open Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76281376. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com Marghera districts. Map G4 Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,

24 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 25 Shopping with Montenapoleone Card GUCCI Gucci Première fragrance Larusmiani, a luxury shopping experience Gucci Via Montenapoleone, 5/7 T: 02 77127 These made-in-Italy clothes are the epitome of exclusivity, Italian style, freedom and flight www.gucci.com symbolized by the seagull logo stitched on the inside of their men's and ladies wear. A visit to this three-level family-owned concept boutique is not only compulsory, but is truly a treat with a luxurious interior of marble, scattered antiquities and leather-clad railings

too. The ground floor is laden with silk ties Via F. Turati (striped, dotted or plain) and a selection of the season's best including cashmere coats, scarves and cardigans, slim-fit trousers and unstructured jackets. A flight up will bring you to the bespoke room where demanding clients can choose their Piazza Cavour BOTTEGA VENETA desired collar, cuffs and fabric while an in- V. Palestro Gold document case store tailor guarantees that you will depart Via Fatebenefratelli 100% satisfied with your purchase. Browse the and red clutch menswear to single out an amazing double- V. Palestro Bottega Veneta breasted grey coat in and cashmere or Via Montenapoleone, 5 the silk-lined, zip-up sports jacket as well as T: 02 76024495 the impeccably-made silk shirts that undergo V.del Vecchio Politecnico www.bottegaveneta.com he capital of Italian fashion, fourteen hand processesVia dell’Annunciata completed by their the “Quadrilatero” and via own team of tailors in Massacarra. For ladies, T Montenapoleone are Milan’s most top billing goes to a dark grey mammoth vest famed and fabled shopping districts. with an extended silk lining as well as a grey Each year, thousands of tourists flock mink dress lined in animalier fabric. here to discover the latest trends and to indulge in some of the world’s most Larusmiani exclusive shopping, now made even Via Borgonuovo Via Montenapoleone, 7 more advantageous thanks to the T: 02 76006957Via dei Giardini “Montenapoleone Card” – an initiative www.larusmiani.it Via Senato launched by Premier Tax Free, a company Rodin 018632/0882 jacket Via Brera specializing in tax free shopping services Chagall 018599 ahirt RALPH LAUREN Klee 018589/0198 trousers available in 26 countries worldwide. Tiziano 018597 pochette Floor-length mermaid- Via Flli. Gabba Seurat 018596/0416 shoes style gold dress “This Card”, explains Sara Bernabè, general Bow tie Via della Spiga manager of Premier Tax Free, “is a unique Ralph Lauren SERGIO ROSSI How to obtain Via Montenapoleone, 4 initiative, launched in collaboration with the Montenapoleone Card V. San Primo Corso Venezia Distressed, brushed leather Associazione della Via MonteNapoleone, T: 02 7788721 Roger -up shoe Via A. Manzoni 1) Make a purchase in any Italian Via Borgospesso www.ralphlauren.com Sergio Rossi which not only allows non-EU citizens Via Montenapoleone store affiliated with Premier Tax to obtain a VAT refund downtown on Free Via Montenapoleone, 27 their purchases but also an additional 15% T: 02 76006140 V. Monte di Pietà 2) When paying at the cash desk, bonus on the refund itself: an amount www.sergiorossi.com Your Premier Refund+ Вы Премьер Воз

Возврат налога 退税 事後免税 Via Santo Spirito ask for a Premier Tax Free invoice Your Premier Refund+ 退税 事後免税

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26 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 27

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Prospero V . del Toro ni monobrand store. The new space is distinguished V. S. PellicoV. Emanuele II V. San Raffaele A Gobbi 1842 ag Teatro Litta V. San Giovanni sul Muro V g Galleria asc ● . n L.go A. Cerva V. . M P.za S.S. PettinaroliRa Odeon e . P exclusive look, created ad hoc for the premier at La by its minimalist style, innate elegance and pastel V. Meravigli Longobardi V d ll Toscanini i C GobbiPietro e Lino 1842 e o t Galleria t ors ta g V. Borgogna shades, in keeping with the women’s prêt-a-porter en V. S.M. Segreta o g e Ma V. S. M. Porta Galleria V. T. Grossi o Passarella Scala. GoldBlack Style also proposes luxury tours, n P.za del II h Cenacolo Vinciano Borsa Meravigli d le c collections on show featuring daring colours, P.za a Liberty ue Skorpion Club n n S. Maria della Grazie Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference V. Mercanti ma Palazzo o not only of a cultural nature but also dedicated Cordusio E R unusual working techniques, patterns and sought-

o e V. Negri Pal. dei ori Galleria Durini . Museo point for refined jewellery and precious itt V n V Galleria del Corso S. Vito Strasburgo o to wine and food tastings. For a truly memorable after materials. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Archeologico P.za degli Poste Giureconsulti rso r Cordusio Co d timepieces,V. S. M. such FulcorinaAffari as Rolex, PatekCentrali Philippe, Palazzo della Duomo o V. Passione www.m-missoni.com. Corso Venezia, 2. V. B. Luini Galleria experience, treat yourself or others to GoldBlack Ascensore M 5 V Passaggio Ragione i 5

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Tudor and. Baume & Mercier. You’ll get the P.za Corso Europa i d T: 02 36510974. M1 Porta Venezia. Map G4 P.za i B Centrale n i Edison P.za i t n o r Style’s exclusive services for Christmas. samea fine assistance that the Gobbi family Mercanti n r Duomo r Beccaria u le o r P.za del a c o o Passaggio D v ia s V. Chiossetto V. Moneta V.Pattari . i G m Duomo r z has been providing its clients forV. theBocchetto last V. OreficiDuomo Duomo V. Cavallotti V e r V GoldBlack Style does not sell services, it makes Max Mara— An Italian fashion house known for its V. Vigna . P.za Vigili a V e C to Manuela Faganelli and Elisa i . P.za Fontana Urbani M r ready-to-wear clothing. Established in 1951, since its V six generations. TheS. upper-floorMaria laboratory V . e dreams come true. For all related information, ask . V b Bongiascia, President and M Podone Pio XI V. SpadariV. Hugo U

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g Ambrosiana Reale Palazzo beautifully tailored lines. Although it has numerous andBorromeo maintenance service. V. Filippo Corridoni i a V Arcivescovile t .

r V. Mazzini V. V. Dogana sales points scattered throughout Milan, Italy and Palazzo P V. Verziere a sola OFFICIAL RETAILER a V. Cesare Battisti r M Reale l t’ O Pinacoteca S. Gottardo a V. delle Ore S. Pietro the rest of the world, it is not a chain store but n a L.go L. J. z S. Bernardino Sa Corso Vittorio t z V. P.za S. M. in Gessate Ambrosiana o n Borges V. Giardino in Corte alle Ossa such as cashmere, silk, wool and or rarer, passion for top quality, elegant design and its rather a real designer label. Open Mon-Sat 10am- a V. Rastrelli V. San Bergamini Emanuele II, 15 S Beltrade R V. dell’Unione Respighi V. 6 . S. Sebastiano P.za e 6 S. Maria a V. San Bernardino even more exclusive materials such as vicuna devotion to individual customer requirements 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.maxmara.com. V T: 02 76020536 presso l Diaz e P.za a V r Corso di Porta Vittoria . S. Satiro S. Stefano o or experimental blends. Cruciani offers young, makes it a symbol of pure, high-class “Made Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 76008849. L n P.za u Galleria Basilica di ig p S Biblioteca Comunale sophisticated collections based on the timeless, in Italy” fashion. English, French, German and M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. Map G4 Mentana e Torino Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2012. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers guide, this in accuracythe check everyof the information to taken been has Whilst care (UK). Maps rights reserved. Ltd. All 2012. © Compass Copyright without the permission of the No part be reproduced of this map and guide may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for responsibility cannot accept CM Cartographics. by and produced designed map is originally This publishers. t Galleria Santo Stefano Centrale (Palazzo

t a V

V. Palla Mazzini . Maggiore a universal cannons of true Italian elegance. The Spanish spoken. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat l Sormani-Andreani) V. Larga L l Galleria a e dell’Unione Teatro g . d small bracelets in macrame lace are the latest, 10am-7pm. www.fedelicashmere.com and www. Moncler—Boutique and home to the famous V. Mazzini V. V. Gonzaga h V Lirico e Palazzo V. P. Cannobio t t global cult phenomenon, an absolute “must- fedelimontenapoleone.it. Via Montenapoleone, 8. “puffer” jackets which, in addition to the lines of its V. Torino di V. Manara LEGEND P.za S. Antonio o V. Guastalla Mondadori Multicenter—A chain of megastores magazine Where Milan is also distributed in this 7.30pm. Via A. Saffi, 7. T: 02 4694900. Giustizia have”. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm/Sun 11am- T: 02 76023392. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 main sportswear collection, also carries the Gamme V. Piatti S. Alessandro Missori V. Albricci Abate

Information scattered throughoutTheatre the city, offering a wide V.store. Zebedia V.Open Mauri Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am- M1 Conciliazione,o M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4 V. Zaccaria 7.30pm. www.cruciani.net. Via Verri, corner of via Bleu for men and the Gamme Rouge for women, an n V. Andreani Palazzo o V. ChiaravalleV. Sant’Antonio Place of Interestassortment of books,Arcade CDs, DVDs, videogames, 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.panton.it. Via L. Ariosto rd V. Francesco Sforza Bigli. T: 02 76021502. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Host— This elegant men’s shop was established as ultra-sophisticated line featuring noble fabrics and Trivulzio Missori e V. Freguglia 7 P Giardino 7 phones, electronics, IT, café, foreign newsstand and corner of via L. Mascheroni,Corso di Porta 12.Romana T: 02 4694468. V. Pantano Aspesi—Likesl to define its style as “ basic, with a the male counterpart of the historic Pupi Solari highly sought-after details that combine the style e Sinagoga Palace Monument d della Guastalla Internet Point. www.negozimondadori.it. Several M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 Torre twist”. Thea cult brand, created in 1990 by fashion FEDELI— This flagship store, located in via (see listing) women’s boutique. It not only carries of haute couture with superior-quality materials st Università V. VelascaVelasca e V. Fieno F degli Studi V. Pedestrian Arealocations in theRailway city (piazza Station Duomo, corso Vittorio veteran. Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored Daverio Montenapoleone since 1946, showcases men and an assortment of traditional but also lesser known that have made Moncler a leading name in winter Teatro V di Milano V. San Barnaba Emanuele II, via Marghera, via Berchet). Mon-SunOlmetto lines, elegant details and natural materials. His women casual clothes which blend tradition and brands and is a favourite with Milanese men in the outerwear. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am- Museum Metro Palazzo Palazzo L.go (Ca’ Granda) V. San Barnaba S. S. Barnaba S. Maria 9am-11pm (Newsstand, Coffee Bakery andArchinto Fine Clothing - MenCorso Italia Annoni& Women F. Richinicurrent collections are still based on the original e Paolo della researchPace to render each garment with a sense know. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Piazza N. 1pm/3pm-7pm. www.moncler.com. Via della Spiga, A Foods from 7am). PiazzaB del Duomo, 1. T: 02 4544110.C D E “no-frills” philosophy andF will appeal to all those G H of6593RA elegance and sophistication. The company’s Tommaseo, 2. T: 02 436085. M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 7. T: 02 76025913. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 Animal House—Contemporary menswear who like their outerwear without flashy labels. stocking a wide selection of international brands Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. Panton’s English Bookshop—Spread out - Blauer, Blundstone Shoes, B.D. baggies, Ganesh, Via Montenapoleone, 13. T: 02 76022478. over two floors, Panton’s offers a vast selection of Hartford - at this store created as an offshoot M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 books in English: narrative, history, children’s books, of Host (see listing). Animal House is gradually SPOTLIGHT Mordillo Time! cookery, art etc.; but also books on antiques, travel becoming a new destination address for men in CRUCIANI—Each item is made from only the Until 20 January 2013, Vicolungo The Style Outlets will host the guides, maps and multi-media products. The the know. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- finest originating from all over the world, exhibition “Riluce. Esercizi di arte luminosa”, an open-air exhibition dedicated to the famous cartoonist Guillermo Mordillo. Following PETTINAROLI the enormous success of the first edition featuring works by Guido Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, it is Crepax, this exhibit will highlight the works of the Argentinean considered one of the oldest venues in the city. Since its inception, the shop has been a reference point for style and elegance in artist, revisited for the occasion in the form of luminous installations. writing paper, business cards, printed documents, desk items Mordillo’s brightly coloured will animate the centres’ open- and photo albums in beautifully handcrafted leather according to time-honoured Italian tradition. The basement floor houses a air spaces in a never-seen-before display of his works. The underlying vast assortment of prints and antique maps. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; theme of “Mordillo Time” revolves around the world of stationery Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 supplies featuring the items and accessories that, for more than 40 www.fpettinaroli.it • www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com years, have brought his drawings to the desks of schoolchildren and Piazza San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via T. Marino) the homes of families throughout the world. T: 02 86464642-1875 IPad case in hammered leather More info: www.wheremilan.com www.thestyleoutlets.com

28 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 29 Shopping Shopping

PIACENZA 1733— This high quality Italian brand Concept Stores art, porcelain, accessories, and the most recent Montenapoleone, 16/A corner of Via Gesù. T: 02 Ferruccio Invernizzi. Open Mon 1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. is the reign of cashmere for men and women’s Meissen® Joaillerie collection. This 300 year-old 3030421. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 10am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.gioiellibyferro. T: 02 76281376. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

clothing and has recently inaugurated a new Ferrari Store Milano—Dedicated to Ferrari German luxury brand has recently refurbished it. Via Monte di Pietà 1/A. T: 02 87071718. M3 exclusive tailoring service in its first flagship store. devotees, this authorized sales point of the historic Casa Carcassola-Grandi as the location for its Damiani—Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has Montenapoleone. Map F4 Lingottino—Just a short distance from via Torino Customers can book an appointment with a tailor Maranello headquarters sells over three thousand stunning European Flagship store. The location a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always and corso Magenta, Lingottino offers beautiful for the creation of “made-to-measure” jackets types of Ferrari merchandise including clothing, hosts the new Home Meissen® Collectibles – a interpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity, Gobbi 1842—Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a handcrafted pieces. Unique items, ranging from and suits. All fabrics carry the Piacenza Cashmere leather goods, high-class accessories, toys and collection of elegant pieces carefully designed and a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary reference point for refined jewellery and precious tiny earrings to diamond chokers. Open Mon signature. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- models. From a minimum of 3.5 euros for a logoed matched in style and color for interior high level. spirit, are the distinctive values of the Damiani timepieces, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www. 7.30pm. www.piacenza1733.it. Via Manzoni, 21. T: 02 writing pad up to 42 thousand for a Formula 1 engine. Sofas, chairs, tables, lamps, tableware as well as the jewelry reproposed in a flagship store designed by and Baume&Mercier. You will get the same fine lingottino.it. Via Santa Marta, 10. T: 02 72022203. M1 72023084. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 A visit to this futuristic, five-storey, location, expressing luxurious fabrics, linings and accessories create a Antonio Citterio. A well-lighted space displays all assistance that the Gobbi family has been providing Cordusio. Map E5

the explosive soul of car racing, is definitely a journey through the modern era classic from the the Maison’s jewelry collections, which are admired its clients for the last six generations. The upper-floor Pupi Solari— In 1969, Pupi Solari, a woman of worthwhile experience. Open Sun-Fri, 10am-8pm; ’40s to the ’70s. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. throughout the world for their jewelry to be realized laboratory provides quick, top quality, watch repair LUIGI VERGA—A large selection of some of the most exquisite taste, opened this children’s shop which Sat 10am-9pm. store.ferrari.com. Piazza Liberty, 8. T: 02 www.meissen.it. Via Montenapoleone, 3. by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the and maintenance service. Open Tues-Sat 10am- desirable watch brands available on the market, now also offers an eye-catching collection of 76017385. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 T: 02 89423725. M1 San Babila. Map G4 best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. 1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-

women’s clothing. The shop is connected to the www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 T: 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. Map G4 LeCoultre, Tudor. Luigi Verga also prides itself on men’s boutique Host (see listings). They also have an Momodesign—“Made-in-Italy” creativity, style and 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 its after-sales service and boasts an on-premises

outlet right next door to the shop. Open Mon 3pm- design are the hallmark features of Momodesign’s Jewellery & Watches Jaeger-LeCoultre BOUTIQUE—Ideally located UNI EN ISO 9001: EDITION 2008 certified repair 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via L. Mascheroni, 12. collections. The style is the value added of each De wan—An elegant, sophisticated space and an in the heart of Milan’s “Golden Fashion Triangle”, workshop. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 463325. M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 creation, which always manages to anticipate Angela Caputi Giuggiù—The brand is renowned ideal venue for this historic brand whose offer ranges Jaeger-LeCoultre opened its first Italian boutique in www.luigiverga.it. Orologeria Luigi Verga: Via G. market trends, include men and women’s timepiece throughout the world. Sophisticated, original from costume jewellery and highly sought-after keeping with the spirit of invention and creativity Mazzini corner of via Dogana, 3. T: 02 8056521. M1- RENCO—Since its inception in 1926, Renco has been lines: helmets, watches, shoes, apparel and leather creations made from unusual materials such as accessories to leather bags and china collections. which has set this reference brand of Haute M3 Duomo. Map F5

synonymous with male elegance, style and “Made- goods and, last but not least, cover for Iphones, plastic and resin, combined to create unique Closed Sun and Mon morning. Open Mon 3.30pm- Horlogerie apart in the field of watchmaking • Luigi Verga Orologi: Corso Vercelli, 7. T: 02 43995176. in-Italy” quality and offers a complete range of big Ipods and mp3s. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her 7.30pm, Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. since 1833. Featuring an elegant, low-key interior, M1 Conciliazione. Map C4

and tall men’s clothing in sizes ranging from 51 to Fri 10am-2.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. creations have been used as accessories by famous www.dewan.it. Via Manzoni, 44. T: 02 76003018. this exclusive space harmoniously blends the 85 as well as extra-long sizes from 50 to 68. Elegant, www.momodesign.com. Galleria San Babila, 4/A. television and film producers. The accessory M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3 best of design and contemporary materials with Pilgiò—A passion for materials and a vocation for traditional or casual wear: suits, trousers, sweaters, T: 02 76016168. M1 San Babila. Map G4 as a focal point, capable of creating a look or an Art Déco style, a period in which the Swiss handcrafting. Pilgiò’s creative line was developed shirts and underwear, in a welcoming atmosphere dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend Dodo—The gold Dodo jewellery line, created watchmakers created the legendary Reverso. in 1984, gradually making a name for itself over designed for a special clientele. All garments and of contemporary and classical taste. A dream in 1995 by Pomellato, is by now a classic either Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. the years thanks to its unparalleled originality and accessories are made according to time-honoured Home Décor & Fabrics well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sun 10am- for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array artisan traditions, to guarantee the perfect fit and 1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via of animal charm pieces, each of which has a durability. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat VILLA MEISSEN®—Drawing thousands of visitors Madonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4 particular meaning. The new Flagship Store, 9.30am-7pm. www.rencostore.com. Corso Venezia, all over the world each year, Meissen® has created designed by world-renowned Paola Navone, is 29. T: 02 76000235. Map G4 a unique life-style experience with home, fine BREGUET—This historic brand, synonymous with characterized by the brand’s signature colours SPOTLIGHT excellence and technological innovation, shares and themes. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am- its exclusive Milanese venue with lovers of the 7pm. www.dodo.it. Corso Matteotti, 9. Christmas Art Deco Spectacular creations of high-class horologerie, by presenting T: 02 49524750. M1 San Babila. Map G4 an extensive collection of unique timepieces and at Fidenza Village SPOTLIGHT jewellery. A scenographic staircase with marble FARAONE—Having undergone a complete makeover, With the festive season fast walls leads to the second floor where, in addition this historic maison of highclass jewellery interprets to its display cases, visitors are invited to discover Italy’s famous tradition of goldsmithery according to approaching, the Fidenza Village, All the Best everything that they’ve ever wanted to know about an innovative, sophisticated and exclusive vision. A one of the Chic Outlet Shopping® Breguet’s workshops at the store’s virtual room real jeweller’s showroom, a “never-seen-before” and Designer Brands which offers the screening of interactive, thematic contemporary concept of high-class jewellery that Villages will be fizzing with creativity. films. Open Mon-Sun10am-7pm. www.breguet.com. though boasting a new style and soul nevertheless This year, the artistic theme chosen Bag bargains and stock up on Via Montenapoleone, 19. T: 02 76007756. retains its time-honoured heritage and personality. the best Italian and international M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Faraone offers two exclusive lines, a pret-a- is Art Deco, focusing on all the porter line "I Composable" and a haute couture electric energy that wrapped itself fashion brands, all discounted Buccellati—Heir to a tradition that dates back line "One of a Kind", both featuring an infinite at 30 to 70% less, at Serravalle to the 18th century and a favourite with the royal number of combinations, shapes and colours. around us during one of design’s families of Europe, Buccellati offers stunning designs Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm. www.faraonegioielli. Designer Outlet, Europe’s featuring a “, lace or honeycomb” effect. Also it. Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76319153. M3 most fertile and daring periods. A known for its silver and extraordinary animal Montenapoleone. Map G4 largest shopping mall located in series of brightly coloured gift box collections. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Serravalle Scrivia (AL). In addition www.buccellati.com. Via Montenapoleone, 23. Gagà milano—The coloured world of Gagà watches sculptures (see photo), designed T: 02 76002153. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 debuts for the first time in Italy. After Tokyo, Osaka to the boutiques of Alberta by students from four European and Hawaii, Gagà has opened its first monobrand Ferretti, Blumarine, Brioni, Brooks Bulgari—Among the most noteworthy names store in Milan’s Corso Venezia. Boasting chic, warm, design schools, including Milan’s in the world together with Cartier and Tiffany, elegant, minimalist style décor, its interior has been Istituto Europeo di Design, will Brothers, Bruno Magli, Bulgari since the very beginning, Bulgari has been a designed to offset the brand’s extravagant soul, a Company Store, Canali, Cerruti, Calvin Klein, Damiani, Diesel, reference point for luxury jewellery. It also carries meld of retro fashion and contemporary taste. provide a perfect, highly evocative backdrop. In addition to watches, fragrances, accessories and small table www.gagamilano.com. Corso Venezia, 8. the gift boxes, you can also purchase the designers’ creative Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Ferré, Furla, Guess, Hugo Boss, La items. Its most famous collection is the “Bzero1”, T: 02 36750377. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Perla, Lacoste, Les Copains, , Prada, Roberto Cavalli, originally crafted in gold and subsequently gift wrapping and greeting cards. Creativity, glamour, embellished with diamonds and precious stones. GIOIELLI BY FERRO—This small, stylish jewellers, Salvatore Ferragamo and Versace, also Desigual, Tommy Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.bulgari.com. located in the heart of Brera, is a place where sparkling treats and seasonal hospitality aplenty: what better Hilfiger and Burberry recently opened. Open everyday, Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 777001. M1 San jewellery lovers can make their dreams come true. atmosphere in which to shop for inspired festive gifts? Babila. Map G4 Here, they can purchase modern, period or design

10am-8pm. The outlet can be accessed by car, train or the pieces, without a backward look, on account of Readers of Where Milan will be entitled to an additional 10% convenient shuttle service that runs daily from Milan Cartier—In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is also the fact that each item sold carries certification by saving (VIP Card) at all participating boutiques. Visit the Tourist famous as a luxury maker of watches, second only gemologists registered with IGI (Italian Gemological (www.zaniviaggi.it – T: 02 867131). www.mcarthurglen.it or in the world to Rolex. Renowned for its design and Institute). The feather-in-the-cap of this boutique is Information Office and mention the magazine. technology, Cartier’s steel watches are embellished its "Private Collection" of Gioielli by Ferro, consisting www.fidenzavillage.com facebook.com/ SerravalleDesignerOutlet with details in gold, platinum and diamonds. of unique pieces, conceived around individual gems Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cartier.it. Via stemming from the creative genius of designer

30 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 31 Shopping ? Shopping Foxtown ?

mario camerini Vicolungo © The Style Outlet ? Outlets Fidenza Village ? Serravalle & Factory Designer Outlet Stores

Milan is surrounded by a belt of Outlets and Factory Stores. Real FARAONE See page 31. PILGIò See page 31. GIÒSA MILANO See pages 34 and 38. shopping villages offering top Italian and international designer brands at prices discounted from 30 to 70%. expressive energy. Unique jewels in which a number Pisa Orologeria-rolex BOUTIQUE—The Pisa first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection of the most common materials such as iron, steel family has always been a forerunner in the world among the most prestigious brands: Damiani, and stones are paired with gold and copper-plated watch sector and now hosts the Rolex Boutique. Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, silver to give life to beautifully crafted pieces of The collaboration between the Pisa family and the Panerai, Piaget, Baume&Mercier. Rocca garantees FIDENZA VILLAGE - Fidenza Village is part of the collection SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET - One of the first emblematic jewellery. The signature feature of the Rolex brand goes back over 60 years. Open Mon outstanding levels of competence and expert brand is its unusual working technique “Oro Muto” 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.pisaorologeria. skillfull consultancy. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. of nine “Chic Outlet Shopping” villages in Europe. A real outlet villages in Europe, Serravalle Scrivia is located in the (Mute Gold). Open: Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www. com. Via Montenapoleone, 24. T: 02 76317726. www.rocca1794.com. Piazza Duomo, 25. shopping village, offering a fabulous array of designer clothing province of Alessandria. Designed as a typical medieval pilgio.com. Via Caminadella, 6. T. 02 804812. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

and homeware. Ligurian town, it combines all the appeal of luxury designer M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map E5 brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont Pomellato—Established in 1967 as an artisan RONCHI—Opened in 1929, it has become a • WHERE: halfway between Milan and Bologna. Take the A1 countryside and the Liguria Riviera. Pisa Orologeria—A watch lover’s paradise for laboratory and currently a reference point in Italian prestigious reference point for all watch lovers, over 60 years. Prestigious timepieces with particular gold-crafting. Pomellato trends include vibrant always combining the passion for the high level autostrada and exit at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. Daily McArthurGlen boasts also “Barberino” near , “Castel attention to the latest innovations. Assistance centre coloured stones set in red gold, irregular cuts and watchmaking with the love for the refined jewellery, “Shopping Express” shuttle bus also available (departs at 10am Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” in Marcianise near Naples, and and specialized workshop. Unique gift packaging ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues- the continuous research of the fashion trend as well from piazza Castello 1, M1Cairoli). “Veneto” at Noventa di Piave near Venice. with delivery guaranteed to any part of the world. Sat 10am-7pm. www.pomellato.it. Via San Pietro as the classic. Among the most prestigious brands: Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. all’Orto, 17. T: 02 76006086. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Rolex, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller. • WHAT: 100 boutiques featuring prestigious designer labels at • WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova autostrada and exit www.pisaorologeria.com. Via P. Verri corner of via Open Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm. Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76208328. M1 San Babila, Rocca 1794—Master jewellers and watchmakers www.ronchigioielli.com. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 877449. reduced prices, including Valentino, Paul Smith, Missoni and at Serravalle Scrivia. The outlet can also be accessed by a M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the M1-M3 Duomo Map F5 Michael Kors. convenient daily shuttle service (departs at 10am from Foro Bonaparte 76, M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza) (www.zaniviaggi.it) • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: thanks to its position, in addition to shopping, Fidenza Village offers a number of other attractions. • WHAT: 180 exclusive designer brand stores, elegance, A great opportunity to learn more about Parma and Terme affordable prices and high quality for all pockets. SPOTLIGHT Verdiane, one of Italy’s primary artistic and cultural hubs. Several events in November. For more information visit: www.fidenzavillage.com To discover your favourite designer brands visit: Paradise of Luxury and Elegance www.mcarthurglen.it FOXTOWN - An outlet store on the Swiss border, FoxTown At FoxTown Factory Stores Mendrisio - just 50 km north uses the popular US-style “Factory Stores” formula: practically VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS - Situated just thirty of Milan and only 20 km south of Lugano (Switzerland) all the best designer labels, accessories and not only, at factory minutes from Milan, in the province of Novara, the Vicolungo - 160 stores offer the most prestigious brands at prices prices. Outlet is the ideal place to spend an exciting day’s shopping. discounted from 30% to 70% all the year. Amongst • WHERE: just 15 km from Lugano and 30 km from Milan. Take • WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino autostrada and exit at the famous labels carried are: Armani, Bally, Blumarine, the Milano-Lugano autostrada and exit at Mendrisio. The outlet Biandrate Vicolungo. Shuttle service available on Fri-Sat- Burberry, Dior, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Polo can also be accessed by a daily shuttle service (departs at 2pm Sun-Mon (departs at 10.30am from Foro Bonaparte 76, M1 Ralph Lauren, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, YSL from Foro Bonaparte 76, M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza) Cairoli-M2 Lanza) (www.zaniviaggi.it) (www.zaniviaggi.it) and some 240 other brands. FoxTown is open daily, • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores offering clothing 11am-7pm (except 1 Jan, 1 Aug, Easter and Christmas & • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than 250 top brands (such for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at Boxing day). Furthermore there are a Casino, 7 bars and as Gucci, Prada, Armani, Dolce&Gabbana, Dior, Polo Ralph discounted prices of up to 70%. Lauren, Lacoste, Burberry, Nike e Tommy Hilfiger), 1 casino, 7 restaurants and a Tourist Info Point. Tax-Free Shopping bars and restaurants. And again, new openings of prestigious • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo Outlet also hosts art service is available and payment is accepted by major brands such as Blumarine, Timberland, Lindt, Pollini, Sebastian exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable credit cards: Union Pay, Visa, MasterCard, JCB, American and Desigual. day’s outing. Express, Visa Electron, and more. Shuttle bus service by For more information, visit: www.foxtown.com For more information, visit: www.thestyleoutlets.com Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it).

32 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 33 Shopping Shopping Cimitero Monumentale A B Luxury shoppingC D E F G H Swarovski Boutique—An iconic symbol of luxury V. Legnano Basilica di San ThisStazione map is Vkindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

S. Marco . shopping, it offers the best of jewellery, key rings, Acquario Simpliciano Centrale F

. Giardini Pubblici SPOTLIGHT Civico (2006) Corso Garibaldi watches, objets d’art and, naturally, the famous animal UnionPay, Serving Cardholders2 T Questura u r V. Cavalieri a V. D. Manin Museo figurine collectables inc the best of precision-cut CENTRO t i V V. San Marco . F All Over the World! del S. Sepolcro atebe di Storia crystal glass and related luxury objects. Open Mon- V. L. P.za nefra Naturale 1 tell V. De Marchi PAC - 1 Visconti i P.za Sun 10am-7.30pm. www.swarovski.com. Via Dante, 15. MILANO S. Marco Palestro Padiglione d’Arte V.le Gadio P.le Cavour V. V. Cernaia UnionPay is the national bankcard association Teatro V Contemporanea T: 02 89092256. M1 Cairoli. Map E4 MILAN Marengo . Centro Studio V. dell’Annunciata de in China, responsible for operating the unified l V. Corso V. Brera Svizzero POPOUT MAP V. Pontaccio Ve Pa V. Fiori Oscuri cc Galleria le Buenos inter-bank clearing and settlement system Teatro hi str Aires Tiffany & CO.—This world-renowned jeweller has Pinacoteca Archi di Porta o d’Arte o V.le V. Strehler Po in China and developing the international Beretta di Brera V. Borgonuovo Nuova lit Moderna four flagship stores in Milan, Florence, Bologna and Gadio L.go A. V. Tivoli ecn acceptance network for UnionPay cards. Teatro P.le ic Greppi V. Mercato Rome. Located in the heart of Milan’s fashion district, delle Erbe Morandi o P Fondazione P.tta Museo del P.za Palazzo The total number of UnionPay cards issued . V. Fiori Chiari Teatro V. Marina Palazzo it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple za A. Mazzotta di Brera Risorgimento S. Erasmo Borromeo C Palazzo di Verdura Castiglioni worldwide has exceeded 2.1 billionMuseo; in 2009, a a d’Adda jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with s n Cusani te V. S. Carpoforoi d’Arte Antica l n Osservatorio Teatro Biblioteca di the number of UnionPay card inter-bank lo n BRERA the tradition of its famous New York counterpart e Pinacoteca - o Astronomico Galleria Manzoni Palestro d Via Del Senato transactions reached 7 billion2 totalingCastello USD Sforzesco 1.1 a S. Maria del di Brera Manzoni 2 V. dei Giardini V. Marina founded in 1837. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. M V. Alessandro Manzoni V. Senato Museo del Carmine Orto . trillion (shops: 2.13 million / POS terminals: 2.88 V. Brera V. Flli. Gabba QUADRILATERO V. Boschetti

V S. Francesco

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www.tiffany.com. Via della Spiga, 19/a. T: 02 76022321. Botanico

di Paola Palazzo

million / ATMs: 930 thousand). UnionPay has d’Arte D’ORO

M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map G4 P.za del del Senato e V. delV. C Carmine t V. della Spiga also established partnerships with around 400 r Carmine a Montenapoleone Corso Venezia V Castello V. Q. Sella p . iovasso V. Ponte Vetero ● S financial institutions all over the world. a Ex Monte Pisa Orologeria - V. San Primo S. Pietro e TOYWATCH—ToyWatch interprets a new concept of Sforzesco n V. Borgospesso V. Melone di Pietà V r o . More than 2000 shops already accept this M Celestino b luxury with its brightly coloured watches. Unique u o Rolex BoutiqueV. Santo Spirito V. Gesù e B l n l card in Milan allowing hundred of thousands Pietà te Museo Bagatti o o i e d n n collections that are distinguished by their wholly r ont V. Maffei . M V a Valsecchi i o V . p of affluent Chinese customers to shop with F B o i l “Made-in-Italy” style and design but also the search g e P.za V l o . i n theirfovourite cards. Castello G e for innovative materials, often including a fusion of V. dell’Orso S. Giuseppe Museo . i As of now, UnionPay card’s international3 V ar di Storia 3 polycarbonate, plasteramic, steel or combined e deg Museo r An Contemporanea Palazzo Momodesign, acceptance network covers all of China, and is L ito d V. rt el a o i Poldi a V. Cusani . d u B Serbelloni with Swarovski elements that embellish their faces V r . V. Sant’Andrea z o Pezzoli V. San Damiano o also extended to more than 90 countries on 5 A V Museo Civico M P.za . . M . and straps. www.toy-watch.it. Via Montenapoleone, Castello V o di Milano V Sport and Style Fondazione ro continents. L.go n V V. Alessandro Manzoni a 25/3. T: 02 76005996. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Matalon - Museo - e i Cairoli . Casa V. Bagutta z Palazzo V. Rovello e The new line of ski helmets UnionPay not only provides quality, secureGalleria d’Arte B P.tta M. n Fontana- r Manzoni e S. Tomaso o Bossi Teatro V Silvestri l and efficient payment services for hundreds e Stazione L.go Maria Palazzo o Prefettura Van Cleef & Arpels—Respect for the past, a t V. Filodrammaticialla Scala s created by MomoDesign Callas t Belgioioso r Cadorna o of millions of cardholders all over the world, Cairoli o Teatro San (Palazzo V. dei Bossi taste for beauty, a passion for travel and a search Fo C Isimbardi) ro Buonaparte Teatro dei Casa degli P.za V. P. Verri Babila but also brings brand new payment choices Teatro Leonardo Belgioioso celebrates its attitude to the for harmony are the underlying values that the V. M. Camperio Filodrammatici Omenoni Corso Matteotti S. Babila and values to partners as well as energy andDal Verme V. San Tomaso P.za V. S. Pietro all’Orte Corso Monforte Maison has continued to uphold since its creation V. G. Puccini L.go P.za S. a V. Dante P.za della Meda Corso Monforte world of sport and Made-in- z V. Conservatorio opportunities for the global bankcard industry! z V. Clerici Scala Mattioli V. San Paolo Babila in 1906. Values which though never losing sight 4 le Palazzo V. San 4 r Pal. Marino V. L. Illica o Carmagnola Dalmazio

Italy. The brand has developed P Municipio S. Fedele S. Carlo Teatro of contemporary styles nevertheless continue to V. Rovello TeatroV. Palazzo . V Galleria P.za al Corso Nuovo Galleria Grassi V. Hoepli encourage an ongoing dialogue between those Litta V. San V. Santa Margherita V. Porrone Galleria S. Babila Vittorio S. Fedele S. Babila V. Foscolo

a new concept for snow Prospero V . del Toro ni V. S. PellicoV. A who create the jewellery and those who wear Emanuele II V. San Raffaele g Teatro Litta V. San Giovanni sul Muro V g sca Galleria a the publishers guide, this in accuracythe check everyof the information to taken been has Whilst care (UK). Maps rights reserved. Ltd. All 2012. © Compass Copyright without the permission of the No part be reproduced of this map and guide may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for responsibility cannot accept CM Cartographics. by and produced designed map is originally This publishers. . n L.go A. Cerva V. . M P.za S.S. Ra Odeon e . P them. A timeless recognizable style defined by V. Meravigli Longobardi V enthusiasts with a line of four Italy Hotline 800 873 045 d l Toscanini i l C Pietro e Lino Luigi Verga e o t ● Galleria t ors ta g Gobbi 1842 V. Borgogna en V. S.M. Segreta o g e elegance, femininity and creative audacity are the Ma V. S. M. Porta Galleria V. T. Grossi o Passarella n P.za del II h Orologi c helmets (Razor Air, Razor Race, Cenacolo Vinciano Borsa Meravigli d le hallmark features found in all the collections of this P.za a Liberty ue Skorpion Club n n S. Maria della Grazie V. Mercanti a Palazzo o Cordusio Em R

o e Venom Air and Vemon Mid) historic brand. For a century Van Cleef & Arpels V. Negri Pal. dei ● la Rinascenteori Galleria Durini . Museo itt V n V Galleria del Corso S. Vito Strasburgo o have been fusing inspiration and technical prowess Archeologico P.za degli Poste Giureconsulti rso r Cordusio ● Rocca 1794 Co d boasting in-mould shells made V. S. M. FulcorinaAffari Centrali Palazzo della Duomo o V. Passione into creations embodying expertise, ingenuity and to the most sophisticated finish. OpenV. B. Luini Mon-Fri Galleria ● Ascensore Excelsior Milano M 5 V Passaggio Ragione i 5

V. Brisa V. Pattari V. Armorari . P.za Corso Europa i d P.za talent. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm, Mon 3pm-7pm. 9am-1pm/2pm-7pm: Sat and Sun by appointment. i B Centrale n i entirely from composite fibres Edison P.za i t n o r a Mercanti n

r Duomo r Beccaria u le o www.vancleef-arpels.com. Via P. Verri, 10. www.giosamilano.com. Via Ciovasso, 6. r P.za del a c o o Passaggio D v ia s V. Chiossetto V. Moneta V.Pattari . i G m Duomo r z to offer not only comfort and V. Bocchetto V. OreficiDuomo Duomo V. Cavallotti V e r V T: 02 7767951. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. MapV. F4 Vigna . P.za Vigili a V e C to i . P.za Fontana Urbani M r V S. Maria V . e . V b maximum protection but also M Podone Pio XI V. SpadariV. Hugo U

P.za Museo L.go dei L.go .

VILLA MEISSEN®—Drawing thousands of visitors PELLUX-RIMOWA STORE—Situated just a short o Biblioteca P.za V

r Palazzo Borromeo ● Orologeria Bersaglieri i V. Bollo del Duomo Augusto V. Cappuccio

g Ambrosiana Reale Palazzo all the unmistakable hallmark all over the world each year, Meissen® has created distance from the Duomo, Pellux is the epitome of Borromeo V. Filippo Corridoni i a V Arcivescovile t .

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V. Mazzini V. V. Dogana Luigi Verga Palazzo P V. Verziere a unique life-style experience with home, fine luxury travel luggage selling briefcases, suitcases, a sola a V. Cesare Battisti features of the brand. r M Reale l t’ O Pinacoteca S. Gottardo a V. delle Ore S. Pietro art, porcelain, accessories, and the most recent bags of all shapes and colours and handcrafted n a L.go L. J. z S. Bernardino Sa t z V. P.za S. M. in Gessate n Ambrosiana Borges V. Giardino in Corte o alle Ossa a V. San Bergamini For real ski addicts, Razor air Meissen® Joaillerie collection, combining a meld lines made from the most precious skins. It is V. Rastrelli R S Beltrade V. dell’Unione Respighi V. 6 . P.za e 6 S. Sebastiano S. Maria a V. San Bernardino V of exclusive materials such as porcelain, gold and the first Italian flagship store of Rimowa, leading presso l Diaz e P.za a (see photo) stands out on V r Corso di Porta Vittoria . S. Satiro S. Stefano o precious stones, exemplifying the brand's supreme producer of aluminum and polycarbonate L n P.za u Galleria Basilica di ig p S Biblioteca Comunale craftsmanship. This 300 year-old German luxury suitcases. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am- Mentana e Torino account of its linear, minimalist t Galleria Santo Stefano Centrale (Palazzo

t a V

V. Palla Mazzini . Maggiore a l Sormani-Andreani) brand has recently refurbished Casa Carcassola- 7pm. www.pellux.it - www.rimowastoremilano.it. V. Larga L l Galleria a e aesthetic, made possible dell’Unione ● Teatro g . d Grandi as the location for its stunning European Piazza San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via Agnello). Mazzini V. V. Gonzaga Ronchi h V Lirico e Palazzo V. P. Cannobio t t Flagship store. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. T: 02 864104. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 V. Torino di V. Manara thanks to a play of thicknesses LEGEND P.za S. Antonio o V. Guastalla Giustizia www.meissen.it. Via Montenapoleone, 3. V. Piatti S. Alessandro Missori V. Albricci Abate

Information Theatre V. ZebediaV. Mauri o V. Zaccaria and lines that make its surfaces T: 02 89423725. M1 San Babila. Map G4 n V. Andreani Palazzo o V. ChiaravalleV. Sant’Antonio Place of Interest Arcade rd V. Francesco Sforza Passion Shopping Trivulzio Missori e V. Freguglia aerodynamic. Available colours 7 P Giardino 7 Corso di Porta Romana V. Pantano l e Sinagoga Palace Monument d della Guastalla Torre a include Frosted Black, White Drive Your Dream —The city tour itineraries of st Università Leather & Luggage V. VelascaVelasca e V. Fieno F degli Studi V. Pedestrian Area Railway Station . Daverio Drive Your Dream offer all the excitement of driving Teatro V di Milano V. San Barnaba Shiny Quartz, Shiny Silver, Olmetto No part be of this map and guide may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for responsibility the publishers cannot accept in this guide, check the accuracy everyWhilst has been taken to of the information care (UK). Maps Ltd. rights reserved. © 2012. All Compass Copyright CM Cartographics. by and produced designed map is originally This without the permission of the publishers. reproduced GIÒSA MILANO—An atelier combined with a super car either in Milan’s most prestigiousMuseum Metro Palazzo Palazzo L.go (Ca’ Granda) V. San Barnaba S. S. Barnaba S. Maria Corso Italia e Paolo Shiny Orange, Frosted Military a showroom in the Brera district, where the shopping streets or its outlying areas (Lake Como Archinto Annoni F. Richini della Pace 6593RA particular way to work the crocodile leather is, and Lake Maggiore). Thanks to a test drive, fromA B C D E F G H Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide,Official the publishers cannot Retailers accept responsibility for errors in or omissions Milan or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics. Green and Frosted Red. before being a business, a family history for about 15’ to 8 hours, under the supervision of an expert 40 years. The atelier merges the traditional working co-pilot, you can experience all the thrill of turning www.momodesign.com ◗ Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique ◗ ◗ techniques of how to handle the most precious heads behind the wheel of a Ferrari Spider or Orologeria Luigi Verga Rocca 1794 Galleria San Babila, 4/A. Via Montenapoleone, 24 Via Mazzini corner of via Dogana, 3 Piazza Duomo, 25 leathers with the modern and innovative way to a Lamborghini Gallardo Spider. Flat rate fee, no T: 02 76317726 T: 02 8056521 T: 02 8057447 transform them. Today Giòsa Milano has become deposit or extra charges for insurance or petrol. T: 02 76016168. M1 San Babila. ◗ ◗ a reality bringing the finest craftsmanship and ◗ Gobbi 1842 Luigi Verga Orologi Ronchi www.dydrent.it. Galleria de’ Cristoforis, 1 - Piazza Corso Vercelli, 7 via Gonzaga, 5 Map G4 producing unique pieces intended to satisfy each del Liberty. T: 02 39195044 or 327 6787077 (info and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 T: 02 76020536 T: 02 43995176 T: 02 877449 costumer’s necessity, from the choice of colors reservations). Map D3

34 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 35 Shopping Shopping

Welcome to Brera Not far from the elegant artisan footwear might be surprised to suddenly discover lovers, La Briciola, Il Consolare, and Giallo sold by Iliprandi or the vintage delights that it’s time for lunch. Try the typical for real “VIP-watching”, the Mediterrannean of Cavalli&Nastri, visitors will find the first Parma-based charcuterie specialities at flavours of Mimmo-Osteria del Corso, the Italian monobrand store of fashion guru Marc Parma & Co, where you can also enjoy Tuscan ones of Osteria Brunello and, last Jacobs, whose adjacent café is the perfect a Sunday brunch, the typical Italian fare but not least, the characteristic restaurants spot for a “trendy” aperitivo set against the offered by Chiù, also an excellent idea for of old Milan including Rigolo, All’Isola, La Alfonso evocative backdrop of piazza del Carmine. tasty gift food packages, the organic menus Libera, Bebel’s and La Vecchia Lira. Not to Garlando The array of boutiques continues with the found at Tastàri or the famed sandwiches be missed, the Carminio where the menu taylor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso sold by Panino Giusto. changes daily. Italian-style shoes Garlando, the historic Milanese brand for The afternoon is likely to pass by in a flash Via Madonnina 1 luxury jewels Manfredi, the sophisticated offer until you suddenly realize that it’s aperitivo corner of piazza del Carmine Online Shop of scarves by Faliero Sarti, bags by F. Clio, time, the beloved Milanese tradition of pre- www.alfonsogarlando.it the original accessories by Angela Caputi dinner drinks and a great way to relax at the Giuggiù, silverware by Giovanni Raspini, end of a long day: you are definitely likely jewellery by Kidult in via Pontaccio, designer to be seduced by the purely Art Dèco-style eyewear by Alain Mikli in corso Como, unique atmosphere of El Tombon de San Marc or leather accessories by Giòsa Milano in via the trendier atmosphere of Fashion Café in Ciovasso and the sartorial tradition of Ader via San Marco; other options are heady wine and Montezemolo. Conversely, for design tasting sessions in the informal ambience aficionados, we suggest a visit to the Calligaris of either N’Ombra de Vin or Moscatelli. flagship store, after which you will have a Conversely, the more fashion-oriented will chance to lose yourself amidst the thousand find just what they’re looking for in nearby of furnishing ideas offered by Cargo&Hi-Tech; corso Como, featuring Milan’s renowned Angela Caputi dulcis in fundo, in the real sense of the word, 10 Corso Como, a cafè, restaurant, concept Giuggiù don’t forget to sample the specialities of maître store, bookshop and exhibition space. ● S. Maria del chocolatier Guido Gobino in corso Garibaldi. Choosing the right restaurant for dinner Alfonso Garlando ● Carmine V. Madonnina ● Carminio might pose quite some discussion. Here ● Giòsa Milano Tasting suggestions are some venues where you can savour CARMINIO, stylish restaurant Giòsa MILANO, colourful crocodile leather

Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2012. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers in this guide, check the accuracy everyWhilst has been taken to of the information care (UK). Maps Ltd. rights reserved. © 2012. All Compass Copyright without the permission of the No part be reproduced of this map and guide may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for responsibility cannot accept CM Cartographics. by and produced designed map is originally This publishers. Between visiting one shop and another, you authentic Italian cuisine: Maxelâ, for meat

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. In fact, as you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot Accademia di Belle Arti - via Brera 28, Cavalli&Nastri - via Brera 2, T: 02 72000449 La Vecchia Lira - Largo La Foppa 5, T: 02 869551 - www.accademiadibrera.milano.it www.cavallienastri.com T: 02 6599136 - www.osteriavecchialira.it help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting Pinacoteca - T: 02 722631 - Chiù - via Pontaccio 5, T: 02 8052296 Mercatino dell’antiquariato e small artisan’s workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and www.brera.beniculturali.it www.chiu.eu - via San Marco 20, T: 02 6599507 brocantage - via Brera, via Fiori Chiari, via paints. Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense - Faliero Sarti - via Solferino 11, Madonnina, via Formentini, T: 02 794593 T: 02 86460907 - www.braidense.it T: 02 8053223 Marc Jacobs - P.zza del Carmine 6, di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting Museo Astronomico - T: 02 50314680 Fashion Café - via San Marco 1, T: 02 72004080 - www.marcjacobs.it collection at the Pinacoteca (the Brera Picture Gallery), the www.brera.unimi.it T: 02 6572021 www.fashioncafe.it Maxela - via della Moscova 50, T: 02 29062926 historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense (Braidense National Orto Botanico - T: 02 02 50314680 F.Clio - via Pontaccio 7, T: 02 80505000 www.maxela.it www.brera.unimi.it www.fclio.it Mimmo-Osteria del Corso - corso Garibaldi 75, Library) , the Museo Astronomico (The Astronomical Museum), 10 Corso Como - corso Como 10, Giallo - via Milazzo 6. T: 02 6571581 T: 02 6597441 - www.osteriadelcorso.com the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino T: 02 29013581 - www.10corsocomocafe.it www.ristorantegiallo.biz Montezemolo - corso Garibaldi 50, Botanico (Botanical Gardens), an evocative green space located Ader - via della Moscova 52, Giovanni Raspini - corso Garibaldi 51, T: 02 29000184 - www.montezemolo.net T: 02 29062425 www.ader.it T: 02 72080286 - www.raspini.it N’ombra de vin - via San Marco 2, in the heart of the city. Alain Mikli SHOP - corso Como 9, Giòsa Milano - via Ciovasso 6. T:02 6599650 - www.nombradevin.it T: 02 29060349 T: 02 86997441 - www.giosamilano.com Osteria Brunello - corso Garibaldi 117, ALFONSO GARLANDO - Via Madonnina 1, Guido Gobino - corso Garibaldi 39, T:02 6592973 - www.osteriabrunello.it Art, shopping and entertainment T: 02 874665. Online Shop www.alfonsogarlando.it T: 02 89096601 - www.guidogobino.it Panino Giusto - corso Garibaldi 123, To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping All’Isola - corso Como 10, T: 02 6571624 Iliprandi - via Solferino (Galleria San Marco), T:02 6554728 - www.paninogiusto.it for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting Angela Caputi Giuggiù Angela caputi giuggù - via Madonnina 11, T: 02 29000580 Parma & Co - corso Garibaldi, T: 02 89096720 - T: 02 86461080 - www.angelacaputi.com Il CONSOLARE - via Ciovasso 4, T: 02 8053581 www.parmaeco.it point where, amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, A brand renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original Bebel’s - via San Marco 38, T: 02 6571658 www.ristoranteconsolare.com Princi - via Ponte Vetero 10, T: 02 72016067 / you will have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, Calligaris - via Tivoli corner of Foro Bonaparte, Kidult - via Pontaccio 3, T: 02 72080271 largo La Foppa 2, T: 02 6599013 - www.princi.it point for antique lovers, Brera boasts a large number of antique shops. combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and T: 02 91988333 - www.milano.calligaris.it www.kidult.net Rigolo - via Solferino 11, T: 02 804589 shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. Cargo&Hi-Tech - piazza XXV aprile, La Briciola - via Solferino 25, T: 02 6551012 spazio manfredi - via Brera 2, T:02 876324 As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric a brac should definitely T: 02 6241101 - www.cargomilano.it www.labriciola.com www.manfredi-madeinitaly.eu make time to visit the mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held www.angelacaputi.com Carminio - via del Carmine, 3 La Libera - via Palermo 21, T: 02 8053603 Tastàri - corso Garibaldi 59/61, T:02 72008379 on the third Sunday of each month. Via Madonnina, 11– T: 02 86461080 T: 02 72022992 - www.carminiocucina.com www.ristorantelaliberamilano.com www.tastari.it

36 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 37 Cimitero Monumentale A B C D E F G H

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V. Mazzini V. V. Dogana Palazzo P V. Verziere a sola a V. Cesare Battisti Ronchir M Reale l t’ O Pinacoteca S. Gottardo a V. delle Ore S. Pietro n a L.go L. J. z S. Bernardino Sa t z V. P.za S. M. in Gessate n Ambrosiana Borges V. Giardino in Corte o alle Ossa Opened in 1929, it has becomea a prestigious V. Rastrelli V. San Bergamini S Beltrade R V. dell’Unione Respighi V. 6 . P.za e 6 S. Sebastiano S. Maria a V. San Bernardino V reference point for all watch lovers, always presso l Diaz e P.za a V r Corso di Porta Vittoria . S. Satiro S. Stefano o combining the passion for the high level L n P.za u Galleria Basilica di ig p S Biblioteca Comunale Mentana e Torino watchmaking with the love for the refined t Galleria Santo Stefano Centrale (Palazzo

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V. Palla Mazzini . Maggiore a l Sormani-Andreani) V. Larga L l jewellery, the continuous research of the Galleria a e dell’Unione ● Ronchi Teatro g . d V. Mazzini V. V. Gonzaga h V fashion trend as well as the classic. Lirico e Palazzo V. P. Cannobio t t V. Torino di V. Manara LEGEND P.za S. Antonio o V. Guastalla Among the most prestigious brands: Rolex, Giustizia V. Piatti S. Alessandro Missori V. Albricci Abate Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller. Information Theatre V. ZebediaV. Mauri o V. Zaccaria n V. Andreani Palazzo o V. ChiaravalleV. Sant’Antonio Place of Interest Arcade rd V. Francesco Sforza Trivulzio Missori e V. Freguglia 7 OFFICIAL RETAILER P Giardino 7 www.ronchigioielli.com Corso di Porta Romana V. Pantano l e Sinagoga Palace Monument d della Guastalla Via Gonzaga, 5 Torre a st Università V. VelascaVelasca e T: 02 877449 V. Fieno F degli Studi V. Pedestrian Area Railway Station . Daverio Teatro V di Milano V. San Barnaba Olmetto Museum Metro Palazzo Palazzo L.go (Ca’ Granda) V. San Barnaba S. S. Barnaba S. Maria Archinto Corso Italia Annoni F. Richini e Paolo della Pace A B C D E F G H 6593RA Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2012. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers guide, this in accuracythe check everyof the information to taken been has Whilst care (UK). Maps rights reserved. Ltd. All 2012. © Compass Copyright without the permission of the No part be reproduced of this map and guide may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for responsibility cannot accept CM Cartographics. by and produced designed map is originally This publishers. Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics.

E. Marinella—Established in 1914, the Marinella Via Montenapoleone, 27B. T: 02 76317720. "Downtown tour", 3 hours in discovery of the brand is known throughout the world for its M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 most evocative places of the city’s historic centre,

stylish, hand-made neckties, worn by heads "Shopping Tour" to visit downtown boutiques with of state, industrial magnates and celebrities. In POLSOGEMELLO—The first shop in Italy dedicated a personal shopper, "Movida Tour", to spend a fun- addition to the legendary shop - still located in to shirts with cufflinks and all accessories related to filled evening at one of the city’s most glamorous, Naples - and its sophisticated Milan boutique, E. this garment. Its various creations for men, women hot spots. Reservations advisable. Marinella ties are also sold at its single-brand store and children are all “Made-in-Italy” and range www.segwaytourmilan.com. Piazza Sempione, 5 in Tokyo, Lugano and London. Open Mon 3pm- from elegant to casual styles that can be paired to (Arco della Pace). T: 02 39545062, 7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.marinellanapoli.it. perfection with the wide array of cufflinks on offer [email protected]. Map D3 Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 5. T: 02 86467036. boasting an exclusive, original design, including M1 Cordusio. Map E4 being “made-to-measure” to suit individual requirements. If you can’t find them, they will find Shoes GIÒSA MILANO—An atelier combined with a them for you. The whole offer is completed by showroom in the Brera district, where the particular ties and brightly-coloured braces and handmade ALFONSO GARLANDO—Tailor-made, Italian-style way to work the crocodile leather is, before being a belts. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm, Tues-Sat 10am- shoes are the protagonists at this charming business, a family history for about 40 years. The atelier 12.30am/3pm-7.30pm. www.polsogemello.com. boutique in the Brera district, which offers made- merges the traditional working techniques of how to Via G. da Procida, 7. T: 02 89604000. Map C2 to-measure shoes for ladies and brides available handle the most precious leathers with the modern in hundreds of different styles and a wide array of and innovative way to transform them. Scala Shop (La)—A destination store for the lovers materials. Open Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat Today Giòsa Milano has become a reality bringing the of ballet and opera, this fabulously equipped 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. finest craftsmanship and producing unique pieces shop offers a wide choice of books, CDs, DVDs, www.alfonsogarlando.it. Via Madonnina, 1. intended to satisfy each costumer’s necessity, from gift items, merchandise, photos and posters. It T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza Map F4 the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish. has a corner dedicated to dance equipment and Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-7pm: Sat and Sun by shoes by Freddy, the official sponsors of the La BALLIN—The signature brand of “Made-in-Italy” appointment. www.giosamilano.com. Via Ciovasso, 6. Scala Ballet corps. Purchases can also be made excellence and leader in the artisan production T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map F4 online. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm and on of luxury footwear has recently opened a new evenings during performances. www.lascalashop. single-brand store in Milan. Extending over a www.rimowa.com Montblanc—A legendary manufacturer of fine it. Largo A. Ghiringhelli. T: 02 45483257. M1-M3 surface area of 200 sq.m. in Milan’s Quadrilatero writing instruments and sophisticated, high-quality Duomo. Map F4 della Moda, the store makes a statement watches and jewellery. The product range also with its minimalist lines and elegant decor. PELLUX – RIMOWA STORE Includes eyewear and leather goods. Two locations Segway—The trendiest, most environmentally- Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.ballin-shoes. via Agnello ang. Ragazzi del ’99 – Milan – Italy In the city (via Montenapoleone and corso Vercelli). friendly way to visit the city and its fashion streets. it. Via Santo Spirito, 5. T: 02 76014904. M3 Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www.montblancitalia.it. Segway offers a wide range of services including: Montenapoleone. Map G4 Phone +39 02 864 104 – freephonenumber 800 61325

www.pellux.it – www.rimowastoremilano.it 38 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 Shopping

VIBRAM See page 40. DRIVE YOUR DREAM See pages 34 and 61. POLSOGEMELLO See page 38.

Fratelli Rossetti—Renowned throughout the for women in search of an iconic symbol of style. 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.vergelio.it. world for their comfort and fit. These beautifully Each pair of shoes is checked for quality at least Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 10. T: 02 76003087. handcrafted shoes are a perfect mix of luxury 120 times. Sergio Rossi also stocks handbags. Open M1 San Babila. Map F4 and tradition, with an added touch of originality. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sergiorossi.com. Beautiful and stylish to boot. The boutique is Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76006140. Vibram—From the well-known Italian company C closed for rennovation until the end of March and M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 that produces rubber soles for sports footwear

it will reopen with a completly new concept. The and, in particular, hiking boots,M amongst other temporary shop is in corso Matteotti, 22 inside STUART WEITZMAN—A brand specializing in things, this shop offers the highly original “Vibram Galleria del Toro. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun comfortable, high-fashion women’s footwear, FiveFingers” product that adaptsY perfectly to 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.fratellirossetti.com. Stuart Weitzman offers trendy styles, uber-luxe the shape of any foot. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; CM Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. pumps with staggeringly high stiletto heels and Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. www. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 evening sandals featuring the brand’s unique, vibram.com. Via R. Sanzio, 6. T: 02 36528461. M1 MY unmistakable style. More than 600 creations for all Wagner. Map B4

RODO FIRENZE—A new space inspired by the seasons combing both classic and exotic materials CY longstanding heritage of this Florentine maison – from cork to printed snakeskin, from goretex to CMY renowned for its high-class craftsmanship in leather gelatinous materials -, worn by beautiful people and Stationery

and footwear and accessories. The boutique fashionistas the world over. Open daily 10am-7pm. K features a contemporary ambience dominated by www. stuartweitzman.com. Via della Spiga, 3. Pettinaroli—Established in 1881 as a print shop a magnificent crystal staircase that connects the T: 02 76003316. M1 San Babila. Map G4 and this year celebrating its 130th anniversary, shop to the showroom. Open Mon-Sat 10am- it subsequently branched out into traditional 1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.rodo.it. Corso Matteotti, Vergelio—A historic brand offering some of the stationery. On offer, highly unique gifts, personalized 14. T: 02 84961950. M1 San Babila. Map G4 finest quality footwear for men and women. planners, business cards printed on the finest of Collections that are always abreast of the latest papers and antique prints. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Sergio Rossi—Sergio Rossi awakens the femme fashion trends without ever foregoing quality. A Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.fpettinaroli.it. fatale in every woman. Beautifully crafted, Made-in-Italy “must”. The chain has many other Piazza San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via T. Marino). T: comfortable, eye-catching footwear designed shops scattered around the city. Open Mon 3pm- 02 86464642-1875. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

SPOTLIGHT Travelling in Style The new Topas Stealth model by Rimowa in black anodized aluminium will not go unnoticed by travel enthusiasts. Combining eye-catching design with contemporary techniques and comfort, its adjustable divider system guarantees that the contents of your suitcase stay in order while its Multiwheel® device facilitates transportation. TSA locks and an intelligent Add a bag holder integrated into its shell complete its slick appearance. The new Topas Stealth is now on sale at the Pellux boutique, Rimowa’s first Italian flagship store. Piazza San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via Agnello). T: 02 864104. www.pellux.it - www.rimowastoremilano.it

40 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 Dining Dining

(Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. salad with slivers of Parmesan cheese, eggs poché, Guidelines M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 catalogna chicory soup, fresh spaghetti alla chitarra This directory, grouped by category, is a list of with Vesuvio tomatoes and basil, mullet stuffed establishments recommended by the editors of veranda (la)-Four seasons—The wonderful with potatoes, capers, olives, orange sauce and sea Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. cuisine prepared by Sergio Mei, one of Italy’s urchins, costoletta alla Milanese and, for dessert, MAP LOCATIONS foremost chefs, can be experienced at this ultra- Montebianco “à la mode du chef”. Closed on Sat at Note that references in bold at the end of each luxurious restaurant located inside one of Italy’s lunch and on Sun. €€€€. http://milano.park.hyatt.it. listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the most glamorous hotels overlooking the gandens. Via T. Grossi, 1. T: 02 88211234. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 street maps on pages 62-63. His unique Mediterranean style of cooking, with particular emphasis on the cuisine of Sardinia, the INFORMATION chef’s native birthplace, brings to life an array of Traditional Italian Cuisine Reservations for most restaurants are strongly unforgettable flavours and ingredients. Open daily advised. Consult your concierge. In Italy, service 7am-11pm. €€€€. www.fourseasons.com/milan. Bagutta— One of Milan’s oldest restaurants, Bagutta is included in the price meaning that although Via Gesù, 6/8. T: 02 77081435. M3 Montenapoleone, is famous, among other things, for a literary prize tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously M1 San Babila. Map G4 that was once awarded here. In fact, it is also for this appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus reason that it is patronized by VIPs and intellectuals. Its include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge Trussardi Alla Scala—Located next of the Teatro top-class cuisine (Tuscan and Lombard) can also be corresponding to the cost of the service and alla Scala, this restaurant, boasting two Michelin stars, savoured in the garden. House specialities include: la bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, embodies outstanding interior design and top-rate “fiorentina”, the famous Florentine T-bone steak, the semi-formal clothing is usually considered de cuisine. The chef Andrea Berton is known for his “scaloppina alla Bagutta”, and soups. Closed on Sun. rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are scallops with ginger and peanut cream sauce. Other €€€. www.bagutta.it. Via Bagutta 14. T: 02 76002767. non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area signature dishes include “liquid salad with cuttlefish M1 San Babila. Map G4 is specifically offered. Several unusual venues, dumpling and black olive oil”, “risotto with raw prawns offering unique gourmet delicacies, are listed Sicilia and coral” and “duck Nantaise, steamed breast, BOTINERO—Nestling in the characteristic Brera under Tasting Experience. fried leg and grilled spring onion”. Closed on Sat at district, this restaurant is a welcoming, sought-after PRICES lunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.trussardi.it. Piazza della gourmet location. Owned by soccer stars Zanetti and Prices are per person. Scala, 5. T: 02 80688201. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 Cambiasso, it offers all the typical flavours of Italian € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ cuisine, with particular emphasis on fresh, seasonal = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. VUN-Park Hyatt—A fabulous restaurant, overlooking ingredients. Wine connoisseurs will be delighted the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, with food by the by its serious wine list. The venue boasts five dining supremely talented chef, Andrea Aprea. Signature areas (including three private rooms) for all occasions, dishes include, seafood salad, porcini mushroom from romantic dinners right up to corporate events, it. Via A. Manzoni, 29. T: 02 72314640. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

LE NOIR-THE GRAY—In perfect keeping with the hotel’s style and design the “Le Noir” Restaurant, situated on the first floor of the Gray Hotel, has a La Malmaison Restaurant, Timeless Charm totally black look, in a post-modern oasis where one can enjoy Mediterranean dishes skilfully revisited by Its name is reminiscent of Napoleone Bonaparte’s favourite dwelling, a country home, not far from Paris the Chef: a cuisine based on fresh and light products, to which the Emperor loved to retreat. This exclusive Milanese restaurant still retains all the charm and like hand made pasta, fresh fish and vegetables. The restaurant also offers every day a business lunch romantic aura of this glorious past offering diners an elegant, unforgettable experience. The venue serves menu. A vegetarian menu is also available on request for those who love healthy and light recipes. €€€. an array of highly sought-after dishes (mainly fish) which can be savoured by candlelight in an ambience www.hotelthegray.it Via San Raffaele, 6. T: 02 7208951. of pure sophistication. Open Mon-Sun 8pm-12pm (make sure to book ahead even for lunch). M1, M3 Duomo Map F4

La Malmaison. Via Comune Antico, 27. T: 02 67101302. www.lamalmaison.it. Marchesino (Il)-teatro alla scala—Gualtiero Marchesi, the “Maestro” of Italian cuisine, is the mind behind these fabulous restaurant and bistrot which, among other things, are set in a superb location: the Teatro alla Scala. Music and good food, For more detailed listings, please see Brunch on Sun 12.30am-3pm (65 euros); Business Bulgari-il ristorante—An oasis of tranquillity, a combination which gives life to the best dishes ADV HONG KONG www.wheretraveler.com lunch from Mon to Fri (50 euros). €€€€. www. carrying the Bulgari trademark, in the heart of Italian haute cuisine, featuring original creations hotelprincipedisavoia.com/ristorante-acanto. of Milan. The famous chef, Andrea Ferrero, and updates of the classics of Milanese cuisine, from Piazza della Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. offers elegant presentations and small, though risotto to breaded veal cutlets. After-theatre dinner M3 Repubblica. Map G2 satisfying, portions. €€€€. Open daily. www. service. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. www. atteo B arro Proedi Comuni c azione– Photo by M atteo Haute Cuisine bulgarihotels.com. Via privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b. ilmarchesino.it. €€€€. Via Filodrammatici, 2 corner of Armani Nobu—An ultra-trendy ambiance T: 02 805805233. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Piazza della Scala. T: 02 72094338. M1-M3 Duomo, Acanto-Principe di Savoia—A fabulously patronized by the fashion crowd. It goes M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 elegant ambiance awaits you at the famous without saying that this fab restaurant, owned Don Carlos-Grand Hotel et de milan—Set HONG KONG Hotel Principe di Savoia. The tables are set by the legendary “Giorgio”, is located in Milan’s against an elegant backdrop in the heart of Milan Savini— As much a city Landmark as La Scala, just the right distance apart, the service is “Quadrilatero della Moda”. Contemporary luxury, (entrance also through the Grand Hotel et de Milan), this well-established restaurant is considered impeccable and the atmosphere exudes impeccable service and creative cuisine with a it is an intimate spot set within a warm, sophisticated to be the city’s finest. Stylish decor and period 香港楼 charm. The restaurant offers superior quality touch of Japanese, signed by the internationally ambience. It has an elegant outdoor area and a furnishings create a sophisticated ambiance food prepared by renowned chefs with dishes renowned chef, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. Open Mon- cellar boasting over 200 superlative wines. The which, combined with impeccable service, Since 1978 one of the best that stylishly update the classics of Milanese Sat 12am-3pm; 6.30 pm-midnight. Sun 6.30pm- menu is enhanced by the creative cuisine of make this a perfect dining experience. The chef cuisine, with risotto taking centre stage. The midnight. €€€€. www.armaninobu.it. Via G. Pisoni, Angelo Gangemi, a young, talented Roman chef, Giovanni Bon offers an array of wonderfully Chinese restaurant in Milan. Via Schiaparelli, 5 chef’s creativity is also expressed in the pasta, 1 corner of via A. Manzoni. T: 02 62312645. and his team. Open every day until late at night for creative food, demonstrating his truly authentic Authentic and elegant. (corner of via Ponte Seveso, 31) meat and fish dishes. Open daily 7pm-11pm. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 after-theatre diners. €€€. www.ristorantedoncarlos. talent. Two tasting menus, “Savini 2011” (5 dishes T: 02 6701992 - 02 67071790 for 95 euros), or “Sorpresa” (6 creations by the Closed on Monday at lunch. www.ristorantehongkong.it chef for 110 euros). Closed on Sat at lunch and on Where guidebooks, magazines and maps reach more than 80 million travelers and residents every year. Sun. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5

42 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 43 Dining Sergio Mei, La Veranda Dining

Golden Restaurants

® QuickGuide Now Available! Don't miss the first edition of the Golden Guide ) MILANO Golden Restaurants Restaurants, the exclusive guide to Milanese I suggerimenti dei concierge restaurants recommended by the Golden Recommended by your concierge Keys Concierges. Here we offer you a sneak preview of several of the most interesting Claudio Sadler locations featuring the best of Italy’s culinary La Veranda Giacomo Arengario Sadler MILANO GOLDEN RESTAURANTS GOLDEN MILANO tradition. Don't miss several tips from chefs and

Con le specialità degli Chef Tips from Chefs sommeliers. Bon appétit! GRIGLIAMANIA— Tasty though simple meat- RISTORANTE GIANNINO—A favourite haunt Fabrizio Cadei Angelo Gangemi Sergio Mei based menu. Piazza Sire Raúl, 4. Open daily, of the Milanese jet-set with a rich menu in font cohin bold Claudio Sadler 05-2008 21:36:47 logo nuovo_35x35.pdf 7- Ask your Concierge

Clefs d’Or 12am-2.30pm/7pm-11.30pm. T: 02 2846261. keeping with the venue’s age-old tradition.

Clefs d’Or

Clefs d’Or

” “ ro Le Chiavi d’O Off Map Open daily, 12am-3pm/7pm-11.30pm. Associazione Lombarda Portieri d’Albergo – Le Chiavi d’Oro Via V. Pisani, 6. T: 02 66986998. MAMMA ROSA—Outstanding delicacies of www.giannino.it. Map G2 ACANTO—Five star restaurant at the Hotel menu. Open daily 9.30am-3pm/7pm-1.30am. Italian regional cuisine and a cellar which is Principe di Savoia offers an elegant ambience Via Dell'Orso, 1. T: 02 8693273. a real museum dedicated to wine. Closed on RISTORANTE SOLFERINO—Since 1909, boasting superior quality food by Chef www.ilcoriandolo.com. Map F4 Sunday. Piazza Cincinnato, 4. T: 02 84571125. traditional Milanese cuisine in the heart of Fabrizio Cadei. Open daily 7pm-11pm. www.osteriamammarosa.it. Map H2 Brera. Via Castelfidardo, 2. Open daily. T: 02 Piazza della Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. DON LISANDER—Fashionable restaurant in the 29005748. www.ilsolferino.com. Map F2 www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com Map G3 heart of Milan. An elegant atmosphere and MONTECRISTO—A historic reference point for impeccable service. Traditional Lombardy and clientele that loves fresh fish. Corso Sempione SADLER—Creativity and culinary innovation BERTI (DA )—Large frescoed veranda regional Italian cuisine. Via A. Manzoni, 12/A. 28, corner of via Prina, 17. Open Mon, Wed, are expressed in the various menus signed Acanto overlooking a marvellous century-old T: 02 76020130. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Thurs, Fri, Sun 12.10am-2.30pm/7.10pm- by Claudio Sadler, an internationally garden. Typical Milanese cuisine. Open 12am- Map F4 11.30pm. Closed on Tues and on Sat renowned two-Michelin starred chef. Open Angelo Gangemi, Don Carlos 2pm/8pm-10.30pm. Closed on Saturday at at lunch. T: 02 312760/3495049. 7.30pm-11pm. Closed on Sunday. Via A. lunch and on Sunday. Via Algarotti, 20. EAT’S BISTRÒ—Very high quality food in the www.ristorantemontecristo.com. Map D2 Sforza, 77. T: 02 58104451. www.sadler.it. T: 02 6694627. www.daberti.it. Map G1 new luxury concept Excelsior Milano. Excelsior Off Map Milano in Galleria del Corso 4. Open daily PAPER MOON—Elegant venue for a pre- BICE—Iconic Milanese restaurant renowned for 12am-3pm/7.30pm-12pm. T: 02 76280614. or post-cinema/theatre meal. Via Bagutta, 1. TAVERNA DEI GOLOSI (LA) — Tuscan cuisine its exquisite cuisine. A culinary haunt of the www.excelsiormilano.com. Map G4 Open Mon-Sat 12.30am-5pm/7.30pm-12pm. in a rustic atmosphere. Corso Sempione, 12. fashion crowd and a must-visit stopover for Closed on Sun. T: 02 76022297. Open daily, 12.30am-3pm/7pm-12pm. stars. Open daily except on Sunday at dinner. GENTE DI MARE—A perfect meld of French www.papermoonmilano.com. Map G4 T: 02 3451630. www.tavernadeigolosi.com. Via Borgopesso, 12. T: 02 76002572/795528. charm and classic Mediterranean influences. Map D2 www.bicemilano.it. Map G4 Open 12am-2.20pm/7pm-11.30pm. Closed RISACCA 6 (LA)—One of the city’s best seafood on Sunday. Bastioni di Porta Volta, 5. T: 02 places, set within one of Milan’s oldest VERANDA (LA)—Tradition, innovation, BRICIOLA (LA)—A refined, elegant ambience, 29005823. www.ristorantegentedimare.it. districts. Open 12.30am-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm. creativity, signed by master chef Sergio Mei outstanding Mediterranean cuisine and a Map E2 Closed on Sunday and on Monday at lunch. Via at the extra-luxurious restaurant. wine cellar boasting several of the finest Marcona, 6 (corner of via Cellini). Four Seasons Hotel Milano. Via Gesù 6/8. vintages. Open 12.30am-3pm/7.30pm-11pm. GIACOMO (DA)—Set against a romantic T: 02 55181658/5468041. www.larisacca6.it. Open daily 8am-11pm. T: 02 77081478. Closed on Sunday and on Monday at lunch. backdrop, it offers a prevalently fish-based Map H5 www.fourseasons.com/milan. Map G4 La Risacca 6 Via Solferino, 25. T: 02 6551012. menu and a wide selection of fine wines. www.labriciolamilano.it. Map F3 Open daily 12.30am-2.30pm/7.30pm-11.30pm. Photos Adriano Caramenti Via P. Sottocorno, 6. T: 02 76023313. Bice La Briciola CAVALLINI—Elegant, though informal with a www.giacomoristorante.com. Map H4 Fabrizio Cadei, Acanto charming garden. A mix of traditional and avant garde cuisine. Open 12am-3pm/7pm- GIACOMO ARENGARIO—A tribute to Art Déco midnight. Closed on Saturday at lunch. set within a unique location: the Museo del Via M. Macchi, 2. T: 02 6693174/6693771. Novecento. For a stunning panoramic view www.ristorantecavallini.it. Map G2 over the Duomo. Open daily 12am-12pm. Via G. Marconi, 1. T: 02 72093814. CELLINI (AL)—Elegant ambience. Fresh, fish- www.giacomoarengario.com. based dishes. Open daily (except on Saturday Map F5 at lunch) 12am-3pm/7.30pm-11.30pm. Via B. Cellini, 19. T: 02 76024484. GIACOMOBISTROT—Ideal for a pre-or post- www.alcellini.it. Map H4 cinema/theatre meal in an ambience where the decorative mood brings to mind the decor CORIANDOLO (IL)—A good venue for a post- of times gone by. Open daily 12am-12pm. theatre/cinema dinner or a light business Via P. Sottocorno, 6. T: 02 76022653 lunch in the heart of Milan. Upscale Italian www.giacomobistrot.com. Map H4 Photo Adriano Caramenti Photo

44 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 45 Dining Dining SPOTLIGHT and seats up to 120 people. The whole is completed Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro alla Scala. by a fabulous outdoor area for “al fresco” dining, far An elegant atmosphere and impeccable service. The removed from the hustle and bustle of city life. €€. menu features traditional Lombardy and regional SU GARDEN www.botinero.it. Via San Marco, 3. T: 02 65560840. Italian cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. A gorgeous, stylishly illuminated wooden veranda acts as the M2 Moscova, M3 Turati. Map F3 For dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with romantic backdrop to this new venue. Its menu offers a delightful persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. mix of oriental flavours including traditional Cantonese cuisine Cantina Piemontese—A top-level “trattoria” with Via A.Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130. or more piquant Thai food, boasting a clever blend of spices and a welcoming atmosphere situated in a beautiful M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 an array of sweet-and-sour samplings. In addition to time- corner of Milan just a short distance from the honoured classics such as kung pao chicken and Pekinese duck, Duomo. Originally a winery with a prestigious GALLERIA—Situated halfway between the Duomo diners can also sample fragrant spring rolls filled with salmon, tradition, this charming bistrot furnished in 1930s and La Scala, Galleria offers elegant inside and Philadelphia cheese and lettuce, meat-stuffed roulades, and style offers diners a choice of classic regional cuisine outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italian rice tagliatelle served with shrimp, onions, bamboo shoots and from all over Italy. Certified by the Italian association style hospitality, from a simple espresso to the peanuts. for celiac disease. Closed on Sun. €€. cuisine or mouth watering. Established as a www.cantina-piemontese.it. Via Laghetto, 2. mid twentieth century café, today Galleria is www.sugarden.it T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5 also a stylish restaurant and pizzeria featuring a Via Carlo Tenca, 12 - T: 02 36746363 traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days More info: www.wheremilan.com C ARMINIO—Nestling within the heart of Brera, a year from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7. €€. Carmino offers light, healthy, tantalizing fare. The www.ristorantegalleria.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele menu changes daily depending on the availability of II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 seasonal products which arrive fresh, each day, from totally gluten-free menu that enhances all the RISTORANTE Giannino—One of the oldest specialities such as Malbec and Torrontes. Open for vegetable gardens, farms and estates just outside Il Giorno Bistrot-Hermitage—This is a flavours of high-quality regional cooking. €€. restaurants in Milan, it was opened in 1899, dinner. €€€. www.elporteno.it. Viale G. Galeazzo, 25. the city. House specialities include Cream of lentils contemporary space featuring decor and www.monrifhotels.it/HotelHermitage.it. Open by Pisa-born Giannino Bindi. Boasting a 300 T: 02 58437593. Map F6 with basmati rice and bacon, Gnocchetti served settings inspired by “Il Giorno”, a traditional Pastry Shop in via daily. Via Messina, 10. T: 02 31817402. Map D1 seating capacity, the restaurant has a number with raisins, capers, chard and Taggiasche olives and Milanese newspaper of longstanding repute. of elegantly furnished dining rooms decorated Giardino di Giada (Il)—Experience and Revoltillos de huevos with chard. Also make sure to A sort of “literary restaurant” which, though Malmaison (La)—Its name is reminiscent of in light and dark shades. Classic menus and impeccable service are the strong points of this try the restaurant’s delectable desserts. Closed on reserved, also offers a “laid-back” atmosphere. Montenapoleone Napoleone Bonaparte’s favourite dwelling. This simple food made from only the finest, freshest large, luminous restaurant. An oriental ambience Sunday. €€€. Via del Carmine, 3. T: 02 72022992. Its regional Lombardy cuisine, created by chef Founded in 1817 by one of exclusive Milanese restaurant still retains all ingredients. A varied menu in keeping with the with design undertones, the side window houses www.carminiocucina.com Alessandro Tamborrino, is based on a careful Napoleon’s soldiers, Cova the charm and romantic aura of this glorious restaurant’s age-old tradition featuring a wide the modern, Jade Café “noodle bar”, featuring selection of products, with no fuss or frills. An past offering diners an elegant, unforgettable selection of fish and meat, regional dishes and cocktails. In addition to traditional, mouth watering Don Lisander—For more than sixty years, a interesting detail: alongside the traditional Montenapoleone pastry experience. The venue serves an array of highly mouth watering desserts. Closed on Sat and on Asian fare it also offers real Cantonese cuisine, fish fashionable restaurant situated right in the heart of menu, the restaurant offers its customers also a sought-after dishes (mainly fish) which can be Sun at lunch. €€. www.giannino.it. Via V. Pisani, 6. and seafood. Only the finest ingredients and the shop is the perfect place savoured by candlelight in an ambience of pure T: 02 66986998. M3 Repubblica. Map G2 freshest products, prepared in the stir-fry version, to take a well-deserved pit- sophistication. Open Mon-Sun 8pm-12pm (make on a hot griddle, steamed or with tofu. The best sure to book ahead even for lunch). €€€€€. Taverna del Sacripante—Simone Suardi is one stop during icy December www.lamalmaison.it. Via Comune Antico, 27. of Milan’s youngest and most talented chefs. A days. Cova is said to be T: 02 67101302. Off Map protégé of the famous Pietro Leeman, chef patron of the famous Joia restaurant, he boasts creativity, DINING the industrial inventor of MEMO RESTAURANT—A charming restaurant technical ability and intelligence. At his restaurant, Panettone - a Milanese featuring a 1930s ambience where you can with its Parisian-bistrot type atmosphere, clients can spend an entire evening starting with an savour a mixture of creative, traditional dishes. In From light bites Christmas cake that dates back aperitivo and ending with an after-dinner addition to risotto, fish’n chips and fried pizza are his to luxury to the late 1400’s – and which drink. The cuisine offers regional dishes made “must-try” specialities. Always closed at lunch and on from only the freshest, seasonal ingredients Mon. €€. www.sacripante.com. Viale Coni Zugna, 52. still, today, continues to be with a choice of 3 tasting menus, from the T: 02 83390065. M2 Sant’Agostino. Map D6 where has ALL you an iconic symbol. “It is baked kitchen, from the grill and from the wood- fired oven. Also the ideal spot for after-dinner need to know entertainment thanks to a rich calendar of International & Ethnic Cuisine according to the original about the Milan secret recipe and boasts a performances and shows. Open Mon-Sat 7.30pm-2am. €€. memorestaurant.it. Via Monte AlaCena-melià—The best of Mediterranean dining scene. number of outstanding Italian Ortigara, 30. T: 02 54019856. Map I5 cuisine and Spanish gastronomic tradition at this restaurant located inside the Hotel Meliá. €€€. ingredients, with sizes ranging Oltremare–boscolo exedra—Located www.melia-milano.com. Via Masaccio, 19. from 0.5 kg to 10 kg, in the inside the Boscolo Exedra Hotel in Milan, just T: 02 44406740. M1 Lotto. Map B2 a few steps from the Duomo, the Oltremare plain, chocolate or pineapple restaurant expresses an innovative concept of Denzel—One of the few truly Kosher restaurants in varieties”, says Cova’s General contemporary luxury. Decorated with eclectic Milan, serving an international fish and meat menu artworks, its décor, though supremely elegant, of delicate contrast. Traditions of the Middle East, Proedi Comuni c azione Manager Giovanni De Vecchis is also somewhat unconventional, as is its America, Asia and South America are combined cuisine. Its sophisticated culinary philosophy in delectable, tasty dishes, served against the (photo). “The wrapping and is expressed through artisan dishes, cooked backdrop of a warm, friendly, welcoming ambience. edible decorations make it the with only the freshest organic ingredients that It uses only the finest ingredients and rigorously highlight their taste, re-evoking its regional follows the rules of Kashrut. Closed on Friday perfect gift to open under the past in order to allow diners to experience new evening and on Sat. €€. www.denzel.it. Via G. Christmas tree!”. and unusual flavours. Always open. €€€. www. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. Map C4 boscolohotels.com. Corso Matteotti, 4-6. T: 02 77679640. M1 San Babila. Map G4 El Porteno—Possibly the best Argentinean First in Italy Open Mon-Sun 7.30am -8.30pm restaurant in Milan, El Porteno is renowned for its International Famous Restaurant (December). Pacific Milano Restaurant-HILTON—It takes a succulent meat and churrasco cuts. Exquisite dishes Worldwide shipping available. particular interest in vegetarian and vegan cuisine offered by chefs focusing primarily on tradition wheremilan.com www.giardinodigiada.it for Chinese Cuisine www.pasticceriacova.it. with international and Italian meals, featuring a and high-quality ingredients, house specialities inc Via Palazzo Reale, 5 Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: 02 76000578. selection of vegetarian dishes. €€. Pacific Milano asado criollo, grilled beef, pork and veal, empanadas Be sure to mention that you found your M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Tel 02 8053891 Closed on Monday Restaurant c/o Hotel Hilton Milan. Via L. Galvani, and pollo en escabeche. Also offers a fabulous restaurant in where magazine 12. T: 02 69833008. M2 Centrale FS. Map G1 selection of important wines including Argentinean

46 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 47 Dining Advertorial

Five star flavours The top restaurants of five star hotels in Milan La Malmaison, timeless charm specialities prepared by Executive Chef Sergio Mei at La Veranda (Four Seasons Hotel Milano). A highly appealing location which can be enjoyed at all times during the day thanks to its numerous themed initiatives. Chef Sergio Mei and his team of 28 staff offer diners Mediterranean cuisine with a twist, prepared with the best selection of fresh, seasonal ingredient. www.fourseasons.com/milan

If nostalgia is your thing, then you should definitely try Il Caruso (Grand Hotel et de Milan), a cosy, open-space location enhanced by a winter garden. Le Noir At the new Caruso Fuori space, guests can dine at tables set up inside a charming veranda area. www.grandhoteletdemilan.it Another of the hotel’s culinary reference visiting La Sinfonia (Seven Stars Galleria), a luxury destinations is Don Carlos, boasting exquisite location dedicated to excellence. This discreet Acanto food skilfully prepared by renowned Chef Angelo restaurant offers a selection of various traditional Gangemi. www.ristorantedoncarlos.it dishes and can also be reserved for special events or celebratory dinners. www.sevenstarsgalleria.com At Acanto (Hotel Principe di Savoia), the cuisine In perfect keeping with the style and design of the of Executive Head Chef Fabrizio Cadei takes hotel, the all black decor of Le Noir (The Gray) is a The cuisine of Straf Hotel & Bar offers a centre stage with menus that stylishly update post-modern oasis featuring classic Mediterranean combination of traditional, international and fusion the classics of Italian cuisine featuring a light, fare updated with a contemporary twist. fare. Presentation, cooking and superb service all innovative touch which is also expressed in the www.hotelthegray.it make it the ideal spot for a business lunch. presentation of his dishes. www.straf.it www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com The restaurant at Milan’s Park Hyatt hotel is The Rubacuori Restaurant at Milan’s Hotel Delectable and eccentric, the Oltremare called Vun and carries the signature of starred Château Monfort combines taste with the restaurant (Hotel Boscolo Exedra) expresses an chef Andrea Apea - a sophisticated gastronomic sophisticated décor of its rooms, where diners will innovative concept of contemporary luxury experience that will surprise diners on account of be treated to delicious inventive dishes featuring melding subtle decor with the tastes and flavours its seasonal classics upgraded with an inventive classics cooked with an ingenious, innovative twist. that exude from the evocative open-plan kitchen twist. milano.park.hyatt.com www.hotelchateaumonfort.com and exclusive VIP dining room which only seats 16 guests. milano.boscolohotels.com Milano Hotel Scala’s Primadonna restaurant is The Restaurant “al V piano” (Grand Visconti Palace) an innovative, elegant venue offering confident offers spectacular views of the city, accompanied A combination of style, elegance and renditions of traditional Milanese and Lombardy by chef Matteo Torretta’s multifaceted culinary sophistication, the Armani/Ristorante perfectly cuisine with an underlying philosophy of sourcing creations. www.extrohotels.com mirrors the style that distinguishes all the wholly organic ingredients, carefully selected for The AlaCena restaurant at Milan’s Hotel Meliá creations of this world-renowned designer. their freshness and quality. www.hotelmilanoscala.it offers a fusion of authentic Mediterranean, Spanish milan.armanihotels.com One of the most renowned restaurants in the and Italian fare featuring an unparalleled selection Blending the old with the new, Il Baretto al city, the Casanova (The Westin Palace) offers a of meat and fish dishes. www.melia-milano.com Baglioni (Carlton Hotel Baglioni) has always skilful blend of traditional Lombard, Piedmont and been a landmark feature of Italian history. Today, Ligurian dishes embracing all the simplicity and Located in the heart of the city, the Petit Pierre in keeping with the fast evolving trends of this lightness of authentic Italian food. (Pierre Milano Hotel) offers a sublime array of only Its name is reminiscent of Napoleone Bonaparte’s favourite dwelling, a country home, not far La Malmaison modern-day metropolis, it is indubitably the www.casanova-restaurant-milan.com the finest Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. Via Comune Antico, 27 perfect venue for business meetings, but not Nestling in the Milan’s quaint Brera district, the from Paris to which the Emperor loved to retreat. This exclusive Milanese restaurant still retains T: 02 67101302 only. www.baglionihotels.com The Manzoni Restaurant, set within the Style Lounge Bar & Restaurant (Hotel Milano www.lamalmaison.it. eponymous hotel, offers diners an intimate, Style) offers an attractive space where old red all the charm and romantic aura of this glorious past offering diners an elegant, unforgettable Surrounded by a magnificent garden, the elegant ambience and fine food complemented brickwork, dating back to the 1840s, melds with luxurious, minimalist ambience of Ristorante by an excellent selection of fine wines. modern gold leaf coated interiors for an uber- experience. The venue serves an array of highly sought-after dishes (mainly fish) which can Bulgari (Bulgari Hotel Milano) serves as the www.hotelmanzoni.com sophisticated dining experience. www.stylehotel.eu ideal backdrop for a highly sought-after tasting be savoured by candlelight in an ambience of pure sophistication. Open Mon-Sun 8pm-12pm experience based on the creative cuisine of Head The Roses restaurant (Starhotel Rosa Grand) never Chef Andrea Ferrero. www.bulgarihotels.com disappoints and is the perfect spot for a delicious Top aperitivo venues (make sure to book ahead even for lunch). dinner, a quick lunch or a mouth watering snack; -Bulgari Bar (Bulgari Hotel Milano), L'Opéra (Hotel De la Ville) offers a modern take right next to it, overlooking Piazza Fontana, Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7/b. T: 02 8058051. on traditional cuisine that delights diners with is Tar.Tar, a "showroom" of taste featuring an www.bulgarihotels.com a number of innovative, unexpected touches. array of different dishes that can be savoured -H club>diana (Sheraton Diana Majestic), The kitchen stays open until late at night, thus throughout the day - from breakfast to an after- viale Piave, 42. T: 02 20581. making it an ideal spot for post-theatre dining. dinner snack. rosagrand.starhotels.com www.sheratondianamajestic.it www.sinahotels.com -Maison Moschino, viale Monte Grappa, 12. Romantic atmospheres – Stylish La Malmaison is the perfect venue for a special occasion to be shared Tradition, innovation and creativity are the To make your visit to Milan’s Galleria Vittorio T: 02 29009858. www.maisonmoschino.com with your “significant other”- possibly in one of the restaurant’s 4 exclusive private dining areas - but also underlying hallmark features of the culinary Emanuele II even more enjoyable, we suggest the ideal place for a business lunch that is bound to impress your partners.

48 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 49 Dining Entertainment

MAMA BURGER Greeting the New “The best burger in town”: this is the perfect place to enjoy a real hamburger, either during your lunch break or at dinner Year with Music (but also for a nighttime snack), in perfect American style. A Orchestra Verdi will celebrate the brainchild of Guido Cancellieri, the venue boasts minimalist décor and a cosmopolitan atmosphere – the perfect backdrop end of the year with an exclusive to delectable, genuine, underground cuisine made only from concert conducted by Zhang the freshest ingredients. Its open-space kitchen and glass- fronted windows overlooking piazza della Repubblica convey Xian. On 29, 30 and 31 December a trendy, welcoming atmosphere. To stay or to go, open daily and 1 January, Zhang will conduct from 11 am to 2 am. Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony in www.mamaburger.it D minor for orchestra, chorus and Via Agnello, 18 – T: 02 84579407 soloists, opus 125, a time-honoured Via V. Pisani, 14 – T: 02 67075379 More info: www.wheremilan.com European tradition that was actually introduced into Italy by the Verdi

Chinese restaurant in Milan. Closed on Mon. €€. assortment of expertly cooked, fresh fish. Closed earthenware pot and fillet of sea bream in lotus flower. Orchestra itself. Ask your concierge. www.giardinodigiada.it. Via Palazzo Reale, 5. on Fri and Sat lunch. €€. www.resalomone.eu. Via Closed on Sun. €€€. www.vietnamonamour.com. 29 December, 8.30pm T: 02 8053891. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 Sardegna, 45. T: 02 4694643. M1 Wagner. Map B5 Via A. Pestalozza, 7. T: 02 70634614. M2 Piola. Map I2 30 December, 4pm Hong Kong—Chinese cuisine. An elegant, evocative su garden—A gorgeous, stylishly illuminated ZERO CONTEMPORARY FOOD—A true culinary 31 December, 8pm atmosphere boasting good food and impeccable wooden veranda acts as the romantic backdrop temple dedicated to Sushi enthusiasts, it is the service. Try the chef’s specialities like Kong Pao to this new venue. Its menu offers a delightful brainchild of authentic Japanese chef, Hide 1 January 2013, 4pm chicken, i.e. chicken pieces with nuts, chilli pepper mix of oriental flavours including traditional Shinohara and two Milanese Japanese foodies. and a special sweet soya-based sauce; the fish dishes; Cantonese cuisine or more piquant Thai food, Shinohara’s passion for all things Italian prompted Auditorium di Milano Fondazione Cariplo. Pekinese, Cantonese and smoked duck and rice boasting a clever blend of spices and an array his decision to move to Milan where he found fertile Largo Gustav Mahler. T: 02 83389.401/402/403. puffs for dessert. Closed on Mon at lunch. €€. Via G. of sweet-and-sour samplings. Open Tues-Sun ground for his creativity. His cuisine encompasses www.laverdi.org Schiaparelli, 5. T: 02 6701992. M3 Sondrio. Off Map 12am-3pm/7pm-12pm. www.sugarden.it. Via Carlo a delightful all-round mix of a wide range of Tenca, 12. T: 02 36746363. M2-M3 Centrale FS, M3 different ingredients and new, unusual food Re Salomone—Located in the heart of Milan, this Repubblica. Map G2 pairings, including truffles, caviar and foie gras, but restaurant offers typically Jewish fare together also excellent dishes based on the best Japanese with an excellent selection of Israeli wines. Its Vietnamonamour—Located in a small, early tradition. Open Mon-Sat for dinner only; take aways For more detailed listings, please see famous original sign has been designed by the Guidelines stylish, low-key interior is the ideal place for an twentieth century building, this is the best restaurant available from 6.30pm to 1pm. €€. www.wheretraveler.com master Ugo Nespolo. A place where visitors can evening featuring top-level Middle-Eastern cuisine. in Milan for Vietnamese cuisine. “Must try” dishes www.zeromagenta.it. Corso Magenta, 87. experience a true Campari “full immersion”. Open This directory, grouped by category, is a list of “Must-try” dishes include falafel, tasty kubbe and an include crab soup with ginger, chicken cooked in an T: 02 45474733. M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 Tues-Sun 7am-8.30pm. www.camparino.it. Galleria establishments recommended by the editors Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Piazza Duomo. of Where Magazine and includes regular Aperitivo T: 02 86464435. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS ❆ ❆ 10 Corso Como Café—Lounge bar (with adjoining Conti Café—This small cosy café-restaurant and Note that references in bold at the end restaurant) located inside a vast complex dedicated lounge bar is located in the courtyard of a prestigious of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the to shopping and entertainment (art, fashion location in via Montenapoleone. Here you can taste coordinates on the street maps on pages and design) founded in 1990 by the publisher and purchase not only confetti (sugared almonds), 62-63. and gallerist Carla Sozzani. Open Mon 6pm-1am; cakes, chocolates and tea and coffee blends but also Tues-Fri 12pm-1am; Sat 11pm-2am; Sun 11pm-1am. raw fish, caviar and Mediterranean-style pasta dishes. INFORMATION www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como, 10. Open Mon-Sat 8am-11pm; Sun 10am-11pm. Aperitivo Several venues offering food are included in T: 02 29013581. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 6.30pm-11pm. Dj set with aperitivo on Wed. Via this section. These are considered as meeting Montenapoleone, 19. T: 02 76394934. M1 San Babila, places rather than gourmet addresses and Join us at Bar Straf—The street bar of the Straf design hotel in M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 thus explain our decision to list them here the heart of Milan. The bar echoes the basic materials rather than under Dining. Most major theatre used inside the hotel, such as concrete walls and Cova—Founded in 1817, by none other than one of productions are listed here, together with a La Briciola floors, although here the interior designer Vincenzo Napoleon’s soldiers. Thanks to its strategic position, in list of other entertainment. Since programme De Cotiis has created a sort of spatial overwriting the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, this venue times are subject to change (often on a daily by using a hyper-decorative style. Open daily from is a true Milanese classic. Established as a pasticceria, basis) it is impossible to list all of them here. and celebrate the 9am to midnight (Sat-Sun 11-midnight); aperitivo it also offers a house aperitivo: an infusion of herbs We therefore suggest that you double- 6pm-10pm. Live music on Tues from 6pm, dj set on and flowers based on a secret recipe. Open 7.45am check details regarding specific programme Thurs-Fri. www.straf.it. Via San Raffaele, 3. to 8.30pm. Also lunch noon-2pm and aperitivo from times. Major events can be found in the festive season with us T: 02 80508715. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 6pm. www.pasticceriacova.it. Via Montenapoleone, “Where Now” section. Open-air markets are 8. T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 an excellent opportunity not only to make CAMPARINO IN GALLERIA—One century after it purchases but also to acquaint visitors with was first opened, Camparino - historically known CUBO—An elegant cube-shaped glass greenhouse, the folklore of the city or indulge in VIP as the “bar of the Campari brand” - has returned to overlooking a charming English-style garden, located watching. For this reason, we have listed them its original spot in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in the heart of the trendy Brera district. This stylish here rather than under “Shopping”. All details II. In the early 20th century it was a meeting place complex houses the Bookshop & Caffetteria degli are correct at the time of going to press but for musicians, artists and men of learning, and the Atellani, the ideal spot for a drink, a business lunch, a times can, and do, change. Always ask your place that gave birth to the tradition of the Milanese dinner, or a special event. The Caffetteria offers a vast concierge to double-check all details. Via Solferino, 25 (entrance via Marsala, 2) – T: 02 6551012 / 6551105 aperitivo. The new modern interpretation of the selection of fine Italian wines serving as the perfect ❆ [email protected] – www.labriciolamilano.it ❆ where WAS FOUNDED IN 1936 in Detroit to provide information on the city to executives travelling in the heyday of the auto industry’s expansion.

50 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 51 Entertainment Entertainment

accompaniment to light delectable menus. Open Concert Venues & Theatres Piccolo Teatro di Milano/Teatro Monday-Friday 12am-6pm. www.atellani.it. Via della Strehler—Founded in 1947 by director, Moscova, 28. Bookshop T: 02 36535957; Caffetteria T: Auditorium di Milano Fondazione Cariplo— Giorgio Strehler and impresario, Paolo Grassi, it San Siro, 02 36535959. M2 Moscova, M3 Turati. Map F3 Inaugurated in October, 1999, the Auditorium is one was the first Italian Theatre Company to offer Aperitivo & Nightlife of Milan’s premier concert halls (boasting a seating a “mixed” repertoire (international and Italian). Temple of Football Deseo—This elegant lounge-restaurant is situated just capacity of 1,400) and home to the Giuseppe Verdi Over the past 60 years it has produced over 280 by Gaetano Lopez a few metres from the Arco della Pace. Boasting a Symphonic Orchestra and Milan Chorus. It also performances by playwrights of the calibre of Named after the famous Milanese footballer sophisticated setting, it offers delicious cocktails and a acts as a venue for visiting international jazz acts, Shakespeare, Goldoni, Brecht, Cechov, Pirandello Giuseppe Meazza, the Giuseppe Meazza Each month PR Manager Gaetano predict your future for a small fee…. rich buffet. It also has a small tobacconist’s counter for symphony concerts and chamber music. www. and Goethe. www.piccoloteatro.org. Stadium (San Siro) is the largest stadium Lopez will give readers of Where • Garibaldi District& Corso Como: the joy of smokers. Aperitivo from 5.30pm to 9.30pm. laverdi.org. Largo G. Mahler. T: 02 83389401. Map E7 Largo M. Greppi, 1. T:848.800.304. T: 02 42411889. in Italy and the third in Europe. All seats are this is Milan’s most fashionable area by Corso Sempione, 2. T: 02 315164. Map D3 M2 Lanza. Map E3 covered in this three-tiered structure which Milan suggestions to discover the night, where, not only will you find a Blue Note—A branch of the famous New York, has a capacity of 80,074 and is the home city by night. Ending with a tip: to bevy of pizzerie, restaurants, pubs and El Tombon De San Marc—This historic Milanese Tokyo and Nagoya venues, this is the new temple of TAM/—Inaugurated stadium of two of the three most successful help you make the most of what’s discotheques, but also possibly chance establishment was opened in 1963, in the Milanese jazz and features world-class performers in 2002, for three years it acted as Milan’s main Italian Football League clubs: A.C. Milan and upon showbiz celebs and sports heroes. picturesque Brera district. A restaurant and American and big-names on the International music scene. opera venue while the historic Teatro alla Scala F.C. Internazionale (Inter). It also has a gift new on the nightlife scene and to bar, it serves typical Milanese fare until 11pm. True to tradition, it hosts two shows a night (at 9pm was being restored and restructured. Boasting shop (T: 02 4046430) and a museum ( T: 02 Aperitivo served from 6pm. Via San Marco, 20. and 11.30pm, with dining option). Tickets only valid a seating capacity of 2,400, it currently hosts a 4042432) displaying all kinds of historic items book that special evening… The most exclusive Clubs. First T: 02 6599507. M2 Moscova, M3 Turati. Map F3 for one show. www.bluenotemilano.it. Via P. Borsieri, variety of concerts ranging from classical music from both Milan’s and Inter’s past: old jerseys, ask your Concierge! and foremost, Armani Privé in the 37. T: 02 69016888. M3 Zara. Off Map to rock and pop but also festivals, performances photos, boots, tickets and a fabulous trophy Montenapoleone area, where you can Fashion Café—An architectural project based on and TV shows. www.teatroarcimboldi.it. Viale case. However, even better than the museum Milan is the home of the Aperitivo club ‘til dawn amidst VIPs, business a “home experience”, but also a hot favourite with Giuseppe Verdi Music Conservatory—Founded dell’Innovazione, 1. T: 02 641142200. Off Map is the guided stadium tour which gives you a and it is most definitely a ritual which magnates and Milanese jet-setters. And, industrial magnates, models and young upmarket in 1808, this Conservatory is another of Milan’s most chance to sit in VIP seats and visit each of the no Milanese is prepared to forego. then again, Just Cavalli Café, set against Milanese trend-setters. Open Mon-Fri from 7am to illustrious venues for classical concerts and also Teatro alla Scala—For over two centuries, home teams’ locker rooms. In summer it also Favourite beverages consumed during 2am; Sat 8.30am-2am; Sun 10am-2am. Aperitivo from offers a wide range of courses and cultural activities a hallowed temple of Milanese music and hosts important concerts. www.sansiro.net. this beloved tradition include the city’s 6pm to 9.30pm. After dinner dj set on Thurs-Sun. (masterclasses, seminars, performances, etc.). Many opera. Designed by Giuseppe Piermarini and Piazzale A. Moratti. M1 Lotto. renowned Martini, Prosecco or Campari, www.fashioncafe.it. Via San Marco, 1. famous Italian musicians studied here – although inaugurated in 1778, it was recently totally accompanied by an all-you-can-eat T: 02 6572021. M2 Lanza, M2 Moscova. Map F3 oddly enough, the young Giuseppe Verdi was refurbished under the supervision of the buffet. A myriad of venues, ranging rejected. There are two concert halls: the smaller Sala renowned architect, Mario Botta. Today the Globe—An elegant lounge bar and restaurant with a Puccini for chamber music and the bigger Sala Verdi theatre is recognized as one of the leading often organized by private institutions and from the smallest bars to larger, uber- panoramic terrace on the 8th floor of Coin, one of the for symphonic and choral music. www.consmilano. opera and ballet theatres in the world and foundations. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazza chic locations situated in the heart of city’s best-stocked and trendiest department stores. it. Via Conservatorio, 12. T: 02 762110. offers seasonal events including choral and della Scala (Ticket Office Via Filodrammatici, 2). the city, organize this event. There are The aperitivo comes with a rustic buffet inc cold cuts M1 San Babila. Map G4 orchestral works. Out-of-season events are also T: 02 88791. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 3 types of venues: design bars (Just and cheeses but also platters of select raw fish and Cavalli, Armani, Dolce&Gabbana Gold, Il upmarket wines. Open daily 11.30am-2am, aperitivo Gattopardo Café), traditional bars (the from 6.30pm to 9.30pm. www.globeinmilano.it. places that have written Milan’s history Piazza Cinque Giornate, 1. T: 02 55181969. Map H5 including Bar Zucca and Caffè Biffi in Just Cavalli Café Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Cova in via JAMAICA—One hundred years after its Montenapoleone and Bar Magenta for a the backdrop of , establishment, Jamaica combines tradition with younger crowd); and, the latest trend, all recently elected “The Best Club in The contemporary art. Formerly a favorite haunt of luxury hotel bars. World” in Monte Carlo, featuring ultra- artists and poets such as Giuseppe Ungaretti, exclusive parties and international Salvatore Quasimodo, Alessandro Francesco stars hailing from all parts of the globe. Tommaso Manzoni, Fernando Fontana, beat Also worth a visit is the highly unusual generation poet Allen Ginsberg and photographer Gattopardo Club, a deconsecrated Ugo Mulas, Jamaica today hosts photographic church often used for film shoots. exhibitions and cultural events accompanied by Another of my favourites is the recently an “aperitivo” in an atmosphere that continues opened, ultra-trendy Club Byblos to retain the intellectual appeal of years gone by. which is already becoming a cult venue. Evening entertainment continues at the Jamaica And, finally landmark club, Hollywood restaurant, which is only open for dinner. Open (Corso Como), which stays open until daily 9.30am-2am; Restaurant on Wed-Thurs-Sat. the wee hours of the morning. www.jamaicabar.it. Via Brera, 32. T: 02 876723. M2 Lanza. Map F3 Gold Gaetano Lopez Pasticceria Biffi—A pasticceria established In fact, during aperitivo hour, people In&chicMilano in 1847, its name is linked to the invention of start thinking about where to go for www.inechicmilano.com “panettone”, the famous Milanese Christmas dinner, in a city boasting a highly T: 338 5952279 cake, exported throughout the world. A taste eclectic offer. There are three main areas [email protected] of old Milan: quality and impeccable service. In dedicated to nighttime entertainment the late afternoon, it serves traditional aperitivi featuring a concentration of venues: Byblos accompanied by a buffet. Open every day from • Navigli District: an area characterized 6.30am to 8.30pm. www.biffipasticceria.it. by places offering live music, patronized Corso Magenta, 87. T: 02 48006702. by artists, models, musicians and M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 university students. Must-try options are its boat bars and the area’s old osterie Sant’Ambroeus—A traditional meeting place, since 1936, just a few steps away from the where you can sample an array of wines, Teatro alla Scala. The aperitivo spread includes cold cuts and typical cheeses. international cocktails and delicious appetizers • Brera District: an historic area based on the theme of the day: oysters, salmon or boasting a warren of characteristic Parma ham. Open daily 8am-1am. Aperitivo from venues offering live music and, believe it 5.30pm to 20.30pm. www.santambroeusmilano.it. or not, fortune-tellers who are happy to Corso G. Matteotti, 7. T: 02 76000540. M1 San Babila. Map G4

52 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 53 MILAN - day trips

The Charm of Christmas Nothing says festivities better than the romantic atmospheres of Christmas markets, amidst time-honoured artisanal creations and gastronomic specialties. One-day trip by bus from Milan, just 45 €.

Merano > 2-8-15 December Bolzano > 1-9-22 December Trento > 7 December Lucerne > 8 December Vipiteno > 16 December

Milan city tours Grand Tour of Milan Brera Art Gallery La Scala Museum and Theatre San Siro Stadium ONE-DAY TRIPS CitySightseeing hop on-hop off tour Lake Como Verona and Lake Garda JEWELS, WATCHES, Bergamo SHOPPING TOURS EXPERIENCE SINCE 1929 Venice Serravalle McArthurGlen Outlet Suisse Alps and Bernina train Vicolungo The Style Outlets FoxTown Outlet via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449 • www.ronchigioielli.com Foro Bonaparte, 76 - Milano - tel. +39 02 867131 - www.zaniviaggi.it Museums & Attractions Museums & Attractions

Milan’s elegant via Manzoni and host masterpieces ships, scooters, trains, reconstructions of ancient The Roman Empire Guidelines of 19th century Italian art from the collections workshops for metalworking, clock-making right This directory, grouped by category, is a list of of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo: the through to electronics, textiles and astronomy, in the Heart of Milan establishments recommended by the editors opulent Neo-classical rooms of explore the relationship between men and Until 17 March 2013, Palazzo Reale of Where Magazine and includes regular and the 19th century . Open: machines starting from the ingenious inventions advertisers. Tues-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm. Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm. of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci who lived will host the exhibiton “Costantino Closed on Monday. Free admission until opening in Milan between 1482 and 1500. Open Wed, MAP LOCATIONS of the section dedicated to 20th century works Thurs, Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays 313 d.C.”. Note that references in bold at the end (late 2012).www.gallerieditalia.com. Via Manzoni, 10. 10am-6.30pm. Full ticket price €8 + Guided tour Divided into six sections of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the For info and reservations (advisable for groups) call inside the Enrico Toti submarine €10. www. coordinates on the street maps on pages toll-free number 800.167.619. M1-M3 Duomo, museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21. T: 02 boasting more than 200 priceless 62-63. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5 archaeological finds and objet INFORMATION Places like the Duomo or the Last Supper are MUSEO DEL 900—One of the youngest museums in Museo di Storia Naturale—Home to valuable d’art, the exhibition will trace a symbols of Milan, hence our decision to list the city, lying adjacent to the Duomo, hosts more mineral, botanical and zoological collections. number of historic, artistic, political them under a separate category. than 400 20th century masterpieces of Italian and Highlights include a large fossil collection, international art - ranging from Fontana to Picasso reconstructions of extinct animals and dioramas and religious themes ranging from - at the recently refurbished Palazzo dell'Arengario. with stuffed animals shown in their natural habitats Milan, the Imperial Capital, to the A building where works of art interact with the city, originating both from Europe and other exotic 1778 with an opera by Antonio Salieri. For more engaging with the past while looking towards the places. It contains the only dinosaur skeleton conversion of Constantine right up information, also see “Entertainment”. www. future. Where tip a sight of piazza Duomo existing in Italy. Where tip magical for teatroallascala.org. Piazza della Scala. T: 02 72003744. from the "Sala Fontana". Mon. 2.30pm-7.30pm; children of all ages. Open Tues-Sun 9am- to the symbols of his triumph. Open daily 9am-6pm. Closed on November 1. Tues-Wed-Fri and Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 5.30pm. Full price ticket €3 (free admission on M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 9.30am-10.30pm. www.museodelnovecento.org. Friday afternoon). www.comune.milano.it. Corso Palazzo Reale, Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 875672. www.comune.milano.it Palazzo dell'Arengario. Via Marconi, 1. T: 02 88444061. Venezia, 55. T: 02 88463280. M1 Palestro. Map H3 M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 Museums MUSEO DIOCESANO—This museum of religious Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia- arts, whose new headquarters were inaugurated For more detailed listings, please see as “Il Castello”. Demolished and reconstructed inside it, will bring good luck. Piazza Duomo- AcQUARIo di Milano—Housed in a splendid Leonardo da Vinci—Found in a 16th century in 2001, hosts 600 works dating back to the www.wheretraveler.com several times from 1300 onwards, it has served as Piazza della Scala. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 Liberty-style building, it is one of the largest and monastery, this is one of the most important 4th century A.D. By maximizing their historic the backdrop for numerous historic events. Today, oldest of its kind in Italy. Established in 1906 and museums of science and technology in the and religious meanings, it preserves and it houses a number of interesting museums and Giuseppe Meazza Stadium (also known as San restructured in 2006, it hosts 36 gigantic pools filled world. Its collections, featuring cars, aircraft, promotes the valuable art treasures belonging libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young Siro)—The famous Milan football stadium, home to with more than 100 species of fish, living in recreated alike. Where tip ask for the walls tour. Inter and AC Milan, was inaugurated in 1926. It was environments ranging from the Amazon to the Monuments & Places of Interest Castle: open daily 7am-6pm. Free admission. completely renovated in 1990. For stadium events, Mediterranean. The main focus of the pools is more Castle Museums: Tues through Sunday 9am- see section on “Entertainment”. www.sansiro.net. Via towards native Italian fish, both fresh and saltwater, SPOTLIGHT DUOMO cathedral—Among one of the most 5.30pm. Full ticket €3. www.milanocastello.it. dei Piccolomini, 5. T: 02 4042432. M1 Lotto. Off Map and plenty of exotic sea life from other continents. important (and majestic) Gothic buildings in the Piazza Castello, 1. T: 02 88463700. M1-M2 Cadorna The aquarium hosts events whole suitable for the world, the church, constructed on and off over a FN; M1 Cairoli; M2 Lanza. Map E4 JEWISH MILAN-The Central Synagogue, inaugurated family and the library is one of the most important period of 450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of in 1892, is the headquarter of the central rabbinate resources for marine biology and oceanic studies in Milan. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral CENACOLO—One of the most famous attractions and follows the so-called “Italian ritual”. Guided Tours Italy. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. is divided by soaring pillars into five naves, the largest in the world, “L’Ultima Cena” or “Cenacolo” by in English can booked by telephoning 393 9742284 www.acquariocivicomilano.eu. Viale G. Gadio, 2. of which measures 45 metres in height. It has 135 Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural or sending an e-mail to [email protected]. T: 02 88465750. M2 Lanza. Map E4 spires and its inside columns measure 3 and a half painting representing the scene of the last supper Sinagoga Centrale, via della Guastalla, 19. metres in diameter. To experience the Duomo at its www.sinagogamilano.it. Map G5 • Holocaust AMBROSIANA PICTURE GALLERY—The “Ambrosiana” of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found most majestic you must ascend to the roof (either by Memorial at the Central Railway Station, via F. Aporti. contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Tues to elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded Open on request. Map H1 through 17th centuries and includes “The musician”, Sun 8.15am-7pm. English guided tour 9.30am and by an outburst of pinnacles, turrets and marble attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the 3.30pm. Reservation compulsory. Full ticket €6.50. statuary and, naturally, the city’s famed golden Navigli—The “Navigli” are artificial canals built 800 “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of www.cenacolovinciano.net. Piazza Santa Maria delle Madonnina. The cathedral is open daily 8.30am- years ago to ferry people and merchandise to fruit”. The Ambrosiana will be exhibiting Leonardo’s Grazie, 2. T: 02 92800360. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 6.45pm. Admission free. For guided tours and private Milan, to irrigate the fields and to defend the city. entire “Codice Atlantico” (Atlantic Codex) until Conciliazione. Map D4 visits: [email protected]. Info point via The network of canals was perfected in 1457 by 2015, 44 or 45 pages at a time for three months at a Arcivescovado, 1 (open 9am-noon/1pm-6pm). Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area, bursting with stretch—the longest the International archival norms Cimitero monumentale (Monumental www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo. trendy dining and nightlife spots, is one of the main will allow such documents to be exposed to light. Cemetery)—A real outdoor museum catering, T: 02 72023375. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 hubs of the Milanese movida. M2 Porta Genova FS. Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10 for on the one hand, to the whims of the elite of Map E6-D7 the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group tickets. Brera—Home, since 1776, to an important Milan’s society and, on the other, to works of art www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. Academy of Fine Arts, this is an artsy by famous sculptors of various eras. Among the Sant’Ambrogio—One of the most ancient M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 neighbourhood which really comes to life at notables buried here are Alessandro Manzoni churches in Milan, it was built by St Ambrose night. In addition to several churches, the district and Arturo Toscanini. Open Tues-Sun from 8am- (patron of the city) in 379-386 A.D., in an area GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA—Boasting 2,700 also hosts a number of interesting galleries and 6pm. Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale. where numerous martyrs had been buried. The paintings and 700 sculptures, this Galleria antique shops. One of the areas in the city is T: 02 88465600. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map D1-E1 church is a wonderful example of Romanesque inaugurated in 1921 is above all a “nineteenth particularly known for its nightlife. Pubs, window style. Open daily 9.30am-12.30am/2.30pm- century museum” hosting mainly Italian and displays, stalls and quaint fortune tellers meld GALLERIA vittorio emanuele ii—Sometimes 6pm (Sun 3pm-pm). Admission free. www. French works of art. Set against the beautifully The Last Supper with important places of culture. For museums in known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this santambrogio-basilica.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15. elegant backdrop of the Villa Reale, with its One of the most famous attractions in the world, “L’Ultima Brera, see “Entertainment” section. Via Brera and elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés T: 02 86450895 (10am-noon/4pm-6 pm). magnificent English garden. Open daily 9am- surrounding areas. M2 Lanza. Map F3 and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5 1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Closed on Mondays. Free Cena” or “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large 15th century barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola and admission. www.comune.milano.it. Via Palestro, mural paintig representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus CASTELLO SFORZESCO—The ancient seat of the measures 196 metres in length. Tradition has it that SCALA (LA)—The world’s premier opera house, built 16. T: 02 76340809 (10am-noon/3pm-4pm). ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco placing your right heel on the bull, depicted in the at the behest of Empress Maria Teresa of Austria M1 Palestro, M3 Turati. Map G3 narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church of Santa Sforza and is now simply know by the Milanese mosaic on the floor, and then spinning around and designed by Piermarini, it was inaugurated in Maria delle Grazie. Booking required: ask your concierge. GALLERIe D'italia-piazza scala—Recently inaugurated, the Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala are www.cenacolovinciano.net. www.wheremilan.com: your free update on shows and events in Milan!

i can i ca d s an p ie tro, vat © fabbr i ng ( V I- II c e ntury) SEMI-r e l ie f ngrav housed in two historic buildings overlooking

56 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 57 Museums & Attractions Museums & Attractions

to the “Diocese”, with smaller pieces collected know Milan history through paintings. from Church museums and treasuries across Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. www. Lombardy. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. costumemodaimmagine.mi.it. Via Sant’Andrea, 6. SPOTLIGHT Full ticket price €8 (€4 on Tuesdays). T: 02 88465933. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 www.museodiocesano.it. Corso di Porta Ticinese, 95. T: 02 89420019. Map E7 PALAZZO REALE—Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal MUSEO TEATRALE ALLA SCALA—Founded in House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one 1913, it is one of the top visitor places in the city. of the most important cultural centres in the city, It is dedicated to the history of the famous Milan hosting exhibitions of international renown. Opening Opera House with a vast collection of musical hours vary according to the exhibition on show. instruments and documents dedicated to famous www.comune.milano.it. Piazza Duomo, 12. musicians, including Verdi and Toscanini. Visitors T: 02 875672. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 can look into the theatre, provided there are no rehearsals, or admire the “machine” that gives stage —The Brera Art Gallery Photo Felix Fibonacci Felix Photo directions. Open Mon-Sun (exceptFabbrica holidays) del9am- Vapore is one of the most important museums in Stazione Centrale 12.30am/1.30pm-5.30pm. Full price ticket €5. Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth www.museodimilano.mi.it. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1 of exceptionally good Italian and foreign Sun Rays at corner of Piazza della Scala. T: 02 88792473/7423. masterpieces including Mantegna’s “Dead Christ”, Grattacielo Pirelli M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Raphael’s “Marriage of the Virgin”, Caravaggio’s Castello Sforzesco “Supper at Emmaus” and, for a little light relief, After more than 50 years, Portello PAC-Padiglione di Arte Contemporanea— “The Kiss” by Hayez. Open Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.15pm. Porta Nuova Completed in 1996, this 1,200 sq.m. space is the Full ticket price €11. www.brera.beniculturali. the decorations of the vaults most important exhibition centre for contemporary it. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza, M3 of Cortile della Rocchetta art in Milan, boasting a garden area for sculptures, a Montenapoleone. Map F3 raised floor for paintings and a balcony for photos have been returned to their and graphic works. Fully accessible by the disabled. TRIENNALE DESIGN MUSEUM— The Triennale Opening hours and ticket prices vary according to di Milano is one of the most vibrant, popular original splendour. The the exhibition on show. www.comune.milano.it. and important exhibition centres in the city. so-called “sun rays” and the Via Palestro, 14. T: 02 88446359/360. M1 Palestro, M3 Featuring annually changing exhibitions of note, Turati. Map G3 it also owns the most important permanent Sforza coats of arms had collection of design works. This fantastic not been visible since 1955, Palazzo Morando-Costume Moda museum is brimming with endless installations Immagine —To celebrate the capital of fashion, originating from brilliant minds all over the when they were covered by City Life Palazzo Morando shows Milanese women’s world. It has a superb media library on design, a layer of ochre-coloured dress styles between the end of the 19th art and architecture. In 2006, in addition to the century and the beginning of the 20th century. historic headquarters, a branch was also opened plaster. The magnificent rooms of this 18th century in the emerging BovisaArena district. Civica Open Tues-Sun www.milanocastello.it. “palazzo,” located in the Quadrilatero della Moda, 10.30am-8.30pm; Thurs-Fri 10.30am-11pm. Piazza Castello. T: 02 88463700. are definitely imbued with a touch of style. www.triennale.it. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. M1Cairoli. Map E4 Where tip best short visit program to T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3 Palazzo della Permanente

VIA DELL’ ARTE Palazzo Dugnani New Milan’s Street ofAquario Art Civico Planetario La Triennale PACPAC Following the recent opening of Teatro Strehler Palazzo Moriggia GAM “Cantiere del ‘900”,900 a new METRI section LINEARI of the Museo Civico di Storia Naturale Pinacoteca di BBrerarera , Milan has been PINACOTECA DI BRERA enriched by a brandPALAZZO new CITTERIO art circuit Palazzo Citterio TEATRO DELLA SCALA Castello Sforzesco featuring the city’sGALLERIE three main D’ITALIA museum hubs: the PinacotecaPALAZZO di MARINOBrera, the GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE Teatro della Scala Gallerie d'Italia inDUOMO piazza della Scala Palazzo Morando PALAZZO REALE Museo di Storia Contemporanea and the civic complexMUSEO consisting DEL 900 of Gallerie d’Italia Palazzo Reale and the MuseoPalazzo del Litta Piccolo Teatro Chiesa di San Babila Novecento. An itinerary extending over Palazzo Marino 900 metres, that can be crossed on foot Santa Maria delle Grazie Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in just 15 minutes, from via Brera to Museo Archeologico piazzetta Reale, cutting through piazza Palazzo Duomo Scala and the Galleria, which hosts an della Ragione extraordinary part of our country’s art Museo del Fumetto history, thus making Milan a prestigious international art capital. 900 Palazzo Reale Biblioteca Chiesa di Sant’Ambrogio Sormani

Palazzo di Giustizia 58 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 59 Porta Vittoria Museo Nazionale della Scienza Palazzina Liberty Università Statale

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MALPENSA - (45 km from the centre of Milan - SISTEMA MILANO - Linate and Malpensa Airports, Bikemi - A service of the Municipality available from A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 Linate ATA terminal, and Duomo Point in via more than 100 stations dotted around the town. 74852200 (call center). www.sea-aeroportimilano.it dell’Arcivescovado 1, T: 02 72023375. Open daily, Price: first 30 minutes free of charge, then €0.50 Malpensa Express trains T: 199 151152. Mon-Sun 9am-8.30pm. www.sistema-milano.it every 30 minutes. Subscriptions needed: daily €2.50. 7am-9pm. www.malpensaexpress.it. Customer Care Credit Cards only. www.bikemi.com. T: 800 80 81 81. c/o Stazione Milano Cadorna FNM. Mon-Fri 7am- City Tours 8pm; Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-4pm. The train Luxury Car Rental CitySightseeing Milano - (48-hour connects Malpensa with the main railway stations HOP ON HOP OFF ticket) Foro Bonaparte, 76. DRIVE YOUR DREAM - Galleria de’ Cristoforis, 1 - of Milan (Cadorna, Centrale, Porta Garibaldi) with T: 02 867131. www.milano.city-sightseeing.it. Piazza del Liberty. Info and reservations 131 daily departures. Journey times vary from 29 Departure: Piazza Castello. M1 Cairoli. Map E4. T: 02 39195044 or 327 6787077. www.dydrent.it minutes (point-to-point) to 52 minutes. Ticket: € 11

font cohin bold Courtesy ATM logo nuovo_35x35.pdf 7-05-2008 21:36:47 Malpensa Shuttle bus T: 0331 258411. www. malpensashuttle.it. Departures from Terminal 1 FIERAMILANO CITY AND MICO For more detailed listings, please see Radio Taxi – 02-6969 Getting Around MILAN exit 5 to Stazione Centrale FS, every 20 minutes www.wheretraveler.com www.yellowtaxi.it Clefs d’Or Clefs d’Or (6.20am-10pm) / from Stazione Centrale FS to Clefs d’Or Terminal 1, every 20 minutes (5.20am-9pm). “L ” e C Oro In addition to the metro (underground) system, Emergency Recommended by hiavi d’ Ticket: € 7,50 U.I.P.A. Chiavi d’Oro-Les Clefs d’Or cited in the listings, Milan is also covered by • Carabinieri T: 112. numerous tram and bus routes. For more Malpensa bus Express www.autostradale.it. • Ambulance T: 118 . Departures from Terminal 1 exit 6 to Stazione Taxi information regarding Milan’s public transport • City Police T: 02 77271. system: ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Centrale FS every 20 min (6.50am-10.10pm) • Medical services T: 02 34567. How to catch a taxi in Milan. From the hotel: call Local Public Transport Company - - Departures from Stazione Centrale FS to • Open Pharmacies T: 800 801185. the concierge. While out and about in the city, Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it. Terminal 1 exit 6 every 20 min (6.50am-10.10pm). • Passports Questura di Milano, via call for a taxi on Yellow Taxi 02 69.69 T: 800 808181. Ticket: € 7,50 Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 0262261. Taxi airport fees: from or to Malpensa: €90 / from or LINATE - (7 km from the centre of Milan). Flight • Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles City of Milan. to Linate: €25-30 / from or to Orio al Serio: under €100 Ordinary ticket (1,50 €) information 24h-24h T: 02 74852200 (call center). Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900. Valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, www.sea-aeroportimilano.it trams or the metro (one trip only). Trains Interpreters Day ticket (4,50 €) Bus 73 Departures from Milano-piazza San Babila to Linate, every 10 minutes (5.35am-0.35am). Studio Bernitz - [email protected]. Valid 24h. Bus, tram and metro with no limits. Ferrovie dello Stato - Trenitalia Railway Departures from Linate-Floor Arrival to Milano- Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com T: 02 26415319/3356348682. Two-day ticket (8,25 €) Valid 48h. Bus, tram and metro no limits. piazza San Babila, every 10 minutes (6.05am- TRENORD - Milano Nord Railway - Info T: 199 15 152. Language Consulting - www.lcc.it. Check the tarifs for the extra-urban subway. 0.55am) Mon-Sun 7am-10pm. From Milano/Cadorna to Via Lanzone, 6. T: 02 8057846/864156. Return ticket to Rho Fieramilano (5 €) Volandia Museum, via Malpensa Express in 30’. ORIO AL SERIO - (45 km from the centre of Milan www.ferrovienord.it – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info Деловые переводы, экскурсии, шоп-туры. Where to buy your ticket: from the all 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it. ITALO - Italy’s newest high-speed train www.vivatmilan.com authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs and automatic ticket machines in underground connects 9 Italian cities including Florence, [email protected] Orio Shuttle - Bus from Aeroporto Parking Bus stations. Rome, Naples and Milan (Garibaldi FS). T: 338 6751422 to Stazione Centrale FS Mon-Fri every 30’ (6am- www.italotreno.it 10.15pm); Sat-Sun every 30’ (8.15am-7.15pm) / from Stazione Centrale to Aeroporto Orio Mon- Fri every 30’ (5.45am-11.15pm); Sat-Sun every 30’ WHALLERE CA MP ILLEADAN M INA MyriadPS: ask Proyour Light concierge SemiExtended the bi-monthly 7.5pt dummy free publication text here byfor Where dummy text here for dummy text here for dummy text or dummy

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VIA VIA V.ANGELOVIA MOSSO RUSSO N VA AI SRE V I V IA L E C E R T O S A DA TRADATE VIALE MARCHE PIAZZALE VIA ANGELO FAVA VIA URUGUAY MONTALBINO VIA DEL PROGRESSO VIALE JENNER VIA ARBE S. FARINA V I A V E G L I A VIA ERCOLANO VIA GIUSEPPEVIA BOLZANO VIALE DEL GHISALLO V IA G A L L A R A T E VIALE ZARA VIA CAGLIERO VIA A. CECHOV VIA QUARENGHIVIA KANT VIA SPOLETOVIA POPOLI UNITI VIA VIA FRANCESCO NAVA VIA VIA VIGORELLI VIA VIALE MARCHE TURRO BELLINZAGHI VIA EMILIO DE MARCHI VIALE E. STEFINI VIA UGO BETTI PIAZZA VIALE BACULA VIALE LANCETTI VIA VIA VIA INVERIGO ROVERETO PREALPI V AI M A C M A H O N MONTICELLI PIAZZA VIA PARRAVICINI PARCO LAMBRO PALAZZO SPOTORNO PIAZZA VIA SCAGNA VIA MONTE GENEROSO DELLA VIA G. KEPLERO GIANFRANCO ZURETTI VIA PALMANOVA TORNO VIA TAHONVIALE STELVIO CARBONARI VIA CIMABUE VIA GOVONE PIAZZA GIACOSA VIA CROCE VIA P. CRESPI VIA CUSIO VIA TARAMELLI VIA TERMOPILI VIA VIA TOCE VIALE LUNIGIANA MORBEGNO

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CANTORE BASILICHE CORSO DI PORTA ROMANA Boasting years of experience in the VIA TORTONA VIA VIA COSIMO VIA MARCALLI VIA SAN CALIMERO VIA ANGELO INGANNI VIA RADAELLIVIA RONDONI VIALE D’ANNUNZIO VIA PISTRUCCI VIA ARZAGA PIAZZA DEL FANTE VIA VIA COMELICO VIA CERANO Airport and Transportation industry, VIA DEGLI ASTRI BOLIVAR VIALE GORIZIA VIA ORTI VIA OLTROCCHI VIA BOBBIO VIA SAN LUCA VIA DELLE VIA STENDHAL VIGNONI VIA COLA DI RIENZO CORSO DI PORTA TICINESE Sistema Milano provides a series of VIA PARRI VIA DELL’ALLODOLA SANT’ VIA QUADRONNO PIAZZALE LINATE ORCHIDEE VIA L. SODERINI VIA BARBAVARA EUSTORGIO LIBIA A51 VIA DELL’USIGNOLO PIAZZA D’ASSISI services, including transportation in VIA CASSOLO VIA CIRENE 6 SANT’ VIA BURIGOZZO VIA DEGLI ETRUSCHI 6 PIAZZA EUSTORGIO SAN FRANCESCO VIA SOLARI VIA SAVONAVIA VOGHERA VIA SAN MARTINO VIALE MONTENEROVIA BOTTA the city, airport transfers to and from VIA PRIVATA BISCEGLIE VIA SAN GIMIGNANO VIALE EMILIO CALDARA VIA BERGOGNONE PIAZZA NAPOLI VIA VIGEVANO CORSO ITALIA VIA CRIVELLI VIA ENNIO VIA LORENTEGGIO PIAZZA INSUBRIALinate (including ATA terminal) and VIA DELLE CAMELIE VIA TOLSTOI MUSEO VIALE GALEAZZO VIA C. TROYA VIA TORTONA XXIV MAGGIO VIA VASARI VIA SIGIERI VIALE BEATRICE D’ESTE VIA ANELLI DELLE Malpensa,VIA FAA’ round-the-clock assistance VIA DEL CARDELLINO VIALE BIANCA DI SAVOIA PORTA TICINESE A. ORIANI DI BRUNO VIA DELLA RONDINE VIA CASCINA CORBA PIAZZA CULTURE VIALE COL DI LANA LARGO VIA COL MOSCHIN VIALE BEATRICEPATELLANI D’ESTE VIALE A. FILIPPETTI VIA MURATORI VIA PANIZZI PIETRO VIA VIALE BLIGNY VIARIPAMONTI VIA TITO LIVIO but also national and international VIA DEI GIAGGIOLT É FRATTINI VIA SAVONA CUSTODI VIA MURATORI BRASILIA VIA BELLINI GENTILE VIA VESPRI SICILIANI VIA DEL TURCHINO VIA FUSETTI transportation. VIALE BLIGNY VIALE SABOTINO CREMA VIA VIA ALTA VIA MONTE CIMONE LARGO ALZAIA NAVIGLIO GRANDE CORSO LODI VIA TORTONA BOCCONI VIA VITTADINI VIA DEI TULIPANI VIABOCCONI VIA SALASCO RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE E I L G U P E L A I V SCALABRINI TORTONA 37 VIA SALASCO DENTATOCURIO VIALE UMBRIA GUARDIA

VIA PIETRO TAULI VIA RONTGEN V I A T E R T U L L I A N O Where to find and book Sistema Milano services: VIA GIAMBELLINO VIA LATTANZIO VIA DELLE ROSE TONIOLO VIA DEI GIACINTI VIA MAGOLFA VIA GIOVENALE PIAZZA SRAFFA VIA MANTOVA Linate and Malpensa Airports, Linate ATA terminal VIA VIA CASTELBARCO VIA SAVONA VIA GOLA GENTILINO VIA PIACENZA VIA FRIULI ALZAIA NAVIGLIO GRANDE VIA BELLEZZA VIA ROMANO GIULIO DuomoInfoPoint VIA VAL BAVONA VIA PESTO VIA BACH VIA PALLADIO VIA COLLETTA VIA SARFATTI VIA ADIGE Via dell’Arcivescovado, 1 VIA ASCANIO SFORZA PARCO VIA ARGELATI VIA BORSI VIA PAVIA VIA TABACCHI PIAZZALE T: 02 72023375 (open daily, 9am-8.30pm) 7 VIA BALILLA RAVIZZA VIA BUOLE 7 PIAZZA LODI VIA TACITO CORSO SAN GOTTARDO TRENTO VIALE ISONZO [email protected] TORRE DI VIALE TOSCANA PORTA ROMANA ALZAIA NAVIGLIO PAVESE www.sistema-milano.it VIA LORENTEGGIO VIA LODOVICO IL MORO VIALE CASSALA VIA SEGANTINI VIA CONCHETTA VIA NERVESA VIA DARWIN VIA GIAMBOLOGNA VIA GIAMBELLINO VIA CARLO TORRE PIAZZA VIA GUINTELLINO I T N O M A P I R A I V

VIA PESTALOZZI TORRI I Z Z A B O L R A C A I V NAVIGLIO GRANDE VIALE BIBBIENA VIA FRANCO TOSI VIA BREMBO VIA

VIA TORRICELLI FUKSAS VIACALABIANA ARCIVESCOVO PIAZZALE ROMOLO VIA VIA BRIOSCHI Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2012. VIA MORIMONDO VIALE PIAZZALE BOLOGNA PIAZZA LIGURIA VIALE VIA PANDINO GONZALES TIRANA BELFANTI LIGURIA TIBALDI VIA LORENZINI C O R S O L O D I A B C D VIALEE F G H VIA VALLARSATAGLIAMENTO VIA GIACOMO WATT VIA SCHIEVANO VIA PREDA VIA CARLO DE ANGELI I L

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ASSAGO AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE

500 m Enjoy Lugano

Located just 70 kilometres from Milan, delle Culture). Another interesting experience is a visit to the city of Lugano will surprise you with Swissminiatur, an open-air museum which houses scale models of more than 120 important Swiss buildings. Before its natural beauties and wide array of heading home, make sure to take a tour of the mountains shopping and entertainment venues at all surrounding Lugano, including Monte Brè or San Salvatore

Tips Images times of the day. which can be accessed by taking a romantic cable car ride.

© Another alternative is to take a trip to the summit of Monte Generoso, standing at an altitude of 1,700 metres, which can be reached by a little cogwheel railway train. For nightlife amusement, the Casinò di Lugano and the Casinò di Campione offer ongoing, glitzy entertainment in a modern, elegant ambience.

BUCHERER - Via Nassa 56, T: +41 919231424, www.bucherer.com CASINÒ DI CAMPIONE - Piazzale Milano 2 (Campione d’Italia - CO), T: + 41 916 4 01111 w w w.casino campione.it CASINÒ DI LUGANO - Via Stauffacher 1, T: +41 919737111, www.casinolugano.ch FOX TOWN - Via A. Maspoli 18, T: +41 848828888, www.foxtown.ch LES AMBASSADeurs - via Nassa 5, T: +41 919235156, www.lesambassadeurs.ch SOCIETà NAVIGAZIONE LAGO DI LUGANO - Viale Castagnola 12, T: +41 919715223, www.lakelugano.ch Taking things slowly is an absolute “must” in Lugano. SWISSMINIATUR - 6815 Melide, T. +41 916401060, www.swissminiatur.ch In fact, it is only by strolling leisurely that one is able to discover several of the old city’s best kept secrets HOW TO REACH LUGANO By car. From Milan take the A9 “autostrada dei Laghi” in the direction of Como- and hidden corners. Before exploring the city’s many San Gottardo, or the A8 autostrada in the direction of Varese-Stabio (Gaggiolo). charming streets, it is imperative to either take a walk By train. Trains depart daily both from Milan’s Central Station and Porta along the shores of the lake as far as the magnificent Garibaldi FS. Info www.trenitalia.com and www.ffs.ch Where time takes shape. By bus. FoxTown Outlet Mendrisio: Zani Viaggi, Foro Bonaparte 76. Parco Ciani, which offers a natural panorama of rare www.zaniviaggi.it beauty year-round, or to indulge in a relaxing boat ride. since 1842 Working to offer you excellence in Watch-making

Exclusive shopping and JeWelry right in the centre of milan. When talking about shopping in Lugano, one immediately thinks about via Nassa, a reference point for luxury boutiques, including historic jewellers Bucherer whose name, since 1888, has been synonymous with stunning high-precision timepieces and jewellery, and the splendid Les Ambassadeurs boutique. During the year, the street is also home to traditional events like the Nassa boat show, an open-air boat show in March, and Nassa in fiore in April. Finally, for an exclusive shopping experience, we suggest a trip to the renowned FoxTown Bucherer High-Class Watches outlet in Mendrisio, boasting more than 160 boutiques Since the very beginning, in the world of Haute Horologerie and carrying several of the world’s most important haute Jewellery, the name of Carl.F. Bucherer has been synonymous with couture labels at prices discounted from 30 to 70%. style and exclusivity. Thanks to its unique, innovative design, the Patravi Travel Tec GMT is a perfect example. Standout features include: 46.6mm stainless steel case with a black dial which displays Music, art and gaming chronograph, date and three time zones. Water resistance is 50 For family entertainment, Lugano offers countless attractions. meters. Self winding movement with a 42 hour power reserve and corso v. emanuele ii, 15 - milano - tel. 02 76020536 - [email protected] In addition to hosting numerous events and exhibitions year- black calf strap and stainless steel folding clasp. round, the city is also known for its art museums (Museo www.bucherer.com d’Arte Moderna, Museo Cantonale d’Arte and the Museo Lugano, Via Nassa, 56 – T: +41 919231424

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