Page 1 Thursday

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO NEW NEW

Smart Moves Smart

YORK YORK season, seepages 6to 14. over a striped skirt. For more on the with a fur necklet and a fur vest duo here, wearing a tailored dress Judy Peabody hair, as shown by the citified polish. It was even set off by decidedly dressed up, with plenty of delight his core customers. The look was Renta’s fall collection, a lineup that should It was ultrachic coming and going in Oscar de la

collections/fall ’09 collections/fall week suites.Others,suchasVerdura, are withOscar Kwiat, havenotreturned suites. back onoreliminatinggift of a dinner, flying in fewer staffers or cutting save abuck:stagingcocktailpartyinstead Sunday night, but brands are finding ways to annual Academy Awards extravaganzaon glamour lives in the run-up to Hollywood’s week dinneronTuesday night. Beauty, backtohostitssixthannualOscar was filledwithChampagne-drinkingstars. here stone colonnadeattheChateauMarmont Goodwin, the 40-person table beneath the ’09 collections/fall LOS ANGELES— By MarcyMedina Played inaLowerKey Oscars’ Party Goes On, Red-Carpet Economics: Some NewYork-based jewelers,including With the worldwide economy in turmoil, It appeared to be business as usual for Dior W Sportswear/Men’s

Women’s Newspaper Daily •February Wear 19,2009•$3.00 •TheRetailers’ Daily From SharonStonetoGinnifer w See

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23 Michael Kors, REVIEWS: Rodriguez Rodriguez Narciso s Thurs and more, and more, pages 6 to14. 6

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WWDThursDSportswearay FASHION 6 New York Fashion Week gets into full swing ™ with collections by Oscar de la Renta, Narciso Rodriguez and Michael Kors, among others. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 The run-up to Hollywood’s biggest night of the year Sunday features plenty of swag and galas galore. THE NEW HOMEBODIES 3 The global economic slowdown sent Puma AG’s Loungewear Set for Surge as “At-Homing” Grows fourth-quarter profits down 78.8 percent. 3 Italian officials have established a more compact One thing about a down economy: the thought Edmiston says Victoria’s Secret has been calendar of international trade shows. of dropping serious coin in the pursuit of fun just successful in encouraging customers to stock up on 16 Collectors are expected to descend upon Paris for does not seem so entertaining anymore. tees and tanks by offering two-for-one values. the Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé art auction. But in the same way the staycation became en “And with our sleep and lounge styles retailing vogue last summer, “at-homing” with friends or mostly between $18 and $48, our products are 17 Robert Siegel talks about his return to the helm of family is fast becoming the leisure-time activity of well priced to lift her mood but not strain her Lacoste USA after an abbreviated retirement. choice. And if women are not going to be spending wallet,” Edmiston adds. Victoria’s Secret has been 22 LIST: Best actress and best actor Oscar nominees money on cocktails and couture, they may just want introducing “soft and luxurious” styles like tissue are ranked by their appeal as actors. to spoil themselves with some cozy loungewear for jersey T- and sleepshirts, layering sweater knits and The show calendar was slimmer, but designers at all their home-style recreation. French terry and sueded jersey lounge pants. 24 Copenhagen Fashion Week reported brisk business. Belk’s Arlene Goldstein, vice-president of trend Hard Tail has adapted to the current economy by merchandising and fashion direction, says these days, offering more of its classic basics, as well as adding ISPO, the sporting goods show in Munich, attracted 26 some 60,000 visitors and nearly 2,000 exhibitors. staying at home is the new luxury. subtle details, great feminine fits Victoria Beckham “We are all craving the nurturing and a wide range of colors, says EYE that being at home with family and Dick Cantrell, owner. Top items “Being able to feel great lounging Star pals of Giorgio Armani feted his N.Y. store friends offers, especially when times include its cotton bandeau maxi s 4 at home or when going out to pick opening with a bash at the new 5th Ave. flagship. are tough,” she says. “And after dresses, subtly striped/tri-tone up a few things from the market is discarding the work day’s clothes, French terry tops whose cotton Classified Advertisements...... 27 it’s especially soothing to put on definitely a modern luxury.” blend offers a soft hand and To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is something warm and comfy.” – Gela Nash-Taylor, corresponding lounge pants. [email protected], using The individual’s name. The majority of women say they “We believe consumers will be Juicy Couture WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 are spending more on essentials drawn to our clean, classic styles FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. like utilities (57%) and groceries that will last rather than fleeting VOLUME 197, NO. 37. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and (60%) this year compared to trends as the disposable income is August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion last, according to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle just not there anymore,” Cantrell says. “We think Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY Monitor™ survey. the fact that all Hard Tail products are made in 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Since they are spending more on the necessities, the USA is another added value for the consumer Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Monitor respondents have had to scale back on during times when every dollar counts.” Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: Jockey sleepwear experienced its seventh return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: travel (74%), eating out at restaurants (64%) and SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR entertainment (62%). As retailers are well aware, consecutive year of increased sales in 2008. Milou SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box apparel purchases are down, too, for those aged 13-34 Gwyn, vice-president of domestic licensing, 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks (52%), as well as among 35-to-70 year olds (37%). attributes success to consumers focusing on nesting after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Victoria Secret’s Liz Edmiston, vice-president and spending more time appreciating the comforts Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests of merchandising for sleep and loungewear, sees of home. to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that opportunity in the downturn, saying women who “During these colder months, we typically offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or spend more time at home will want to make their see higher sales in our sleep and loungewear information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, downtime wardrobe more appealing. categories,” Gwyn says, adding that the company UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, “We do see our customers re-assessing their is very well positioned for the current economic AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, shopping habits,” she says. “She is making careful climate. “Purchasing Jockey is not perceived as an ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS choices on how to spend her money, but spending indulgence – it’s a purchase that you’ll feel good SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. time with friends and socializing are still very about for a long time.” important to her. We see Jockey’s new fabrics this as an opportunity for for spring include sueded styles that are versatile, well Categories In Which Women interlock, stretch velvet DAILY I say do what makes priced and make her feel Are Decreasing Expenditures and spring-weight French “ put together.” terry. Refined details QUOTE you happy and wear what Juicy Couture says its and understated prints 80% expertise in the loungewear 74% combine with flowing you want because the only thing that arena – whether via an 70% styles. Says Gwyn: “She 64% 62% really matters is if your mother calls embroidered tracksuit, 60% can wear our sleep separates 56% hoodies or super-soft cotton 51% for lounging at home and 50% you up the next day and says, ‘What shorts – reassures customers 43% feel comfortable enough that they are buying high- 40% to wear them when she has were you wearing? quality product they can 30% friends over for a casual get ’ wear for years to come, together as well.” 20% ” according to Gela Nash- Belk’s Goldstein says — Jennifer Lopez on the Oscars’ red carpet. Page one. Taylor, co-founder. 10% the store is excited about

“The current economy 0% the relaunch of one of its CORRECTION is extremely hard on proprietary brands, ND An advertisement on page 17, Wednesday, prepared by the Fur Clothing everyone,” Nash-Taylor Dining out New Directions, a line full Information Council of America, incorrectly stated the name of ElectronicsAccessories says. “Juicy seeks out the Travel/vacation Entertainment of cotton and jersey fabrics. the designer of Tuleh. It is Bryan Bradley, not Brian Reyes. most comfortable fabrics “While many of the items and best fits to give our are inspired by updated sportswear silhouettes such as short-sleeve, scoop customer clothing they can really get the most out Marchesa TODAY ON of. Being able to feel great lounging at home or when neck tees, capris and gauchos, the feel good fabrics going out to pick up a few things from the market is are the perfect choice for ‘nesting and resting.’” definitely a modern luxury.” Nesting may be the new normal for awhile since .com more than 4 out of 10 female consumers (42%) This story is one in a series of articles based on find- WWD are “very or somewhat pessimistic” about the ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ • Ongoing coverage of New York Fashion U.S. economy. Those with the highest degree of tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pessimism are 56-to-70 years old. At 26%, those Week, including men’s and women’s aged 13-to-24 are significantly less so. On the other pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it e reviews, parties and Fashion Scoops hand, only 27% of all women are “very or somewhat relates to the American consumer and her attitudes • Featured images: fashion week parties pessimistic” about their own personal financial and behavior regarding clothing, IANNACCON

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P from the WWDList on Oscar nominees WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 3 WWD.COM

Puma Net Drops 78.8 Percent MEMO PAD help the cause, they won’t become the standard images of beauty. “We made an extraordinary impact. By Ellen Groves COLORS OF THE REVOLUTION: Did the election of The Obamas help in the fact that when we have Barack Obama bring more faces of color to the runways images of color in high places where whites can see, The global economic slowdown sent fourth-quarter this season? Some show attendees have noticed an it always improve subliminally the thinking,” said profits at Puma AG down 78.8 percent. uptick in the number of ethnic models during New Hardison. “You start getting more accustomed to the The Herzogenaurach, Germany-based company, which marked its York Fashion Week, although it’s hard to pinpoint idea. It helps to have images of color around because 60th anniversary last year, on Wednesday reported net earnings of 8.1 whether that’s a result of the excitement over the new it helps people feel more comfortable about adding million euros, or $10.7 million, for the three months ended Dec. 31. President and First Lady or the ongoing conversations color to their aesthetic, as one designer loves to keep Boosted by a 26 percent jump in sales of bags, balls and other about the lack of diversity in fashion. saying. It’s not going to change the world of racial sporting accessories, fourth-quarter consolidated sales grew 7 per- “I wouldn’t say it’s an invasion” of ethnic faces, thinking completely because our President and First cent on a currency-adjusted basis in the quarter, to 561.3 million said Stephen Lee, an agent at Next Models. “But it’s an Lady are of color. But it helps.” — Stephanie D. Smith euros, or $739.9 million. Dollar figures have been converted from acknowledgement.” Popular models on the catwalks and Marc Karimzadeh euros at average exchange rates. include Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman, Europe’s second-largest activewear firm, which is majority- whom Lee called “staples” at fashion week. VF CLOSES IN GERMANY: Almost two years to the day owned by PPR, said net earnings for 2008 declined 13.5 percent to The progress came after much work within the after being launched, Vanity Fair Germany is closing. 232.8 million euros, or $342.5 million, below analysts’ estimates. fashion community to raise awareness of the lack of The current issue of the weekly title, which hits the Heavy brand investments in a highly charged sporting year, includ- diversity in fashion, both on the runways and in the newsstands today, is to be the last. “Only eleven ing the African Cup of Nations, the Olympic Games and the Volvo ateliers. A series of panels spearheaded by former weeks ago, I publicly vowed that Condé Nast would Ocean Race sailing competition, in which Puma’s entry “Il mostro” fashion model and model agency owner Bethann continue to publish Vanity Fair in spite of difficulties,” is battling for the lead, helped boost sales but weighed on profits. Hardison helped jump-start the conversation about said Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of Condé Nast Parent PPR is to unveil its results today. race and fashion in 2007. International. “But the world is “Despite a very difficult market situation and a weak consumer From there, small victories changing rapidly and in ways sentiment, Puma managed to post new sales records in the last fi- ensued, including the July for which no one can be truly nancial year,” stated chairman and chief executive officer Jochen issue of Vogue Italia that prepared. The global economy Zeitz. “We have implemented measures in the fourth quarter to featured all black models has been plunged into a crisis prepare us properly for the coming year and will react flexibly to — Iman, Tyra Banks, Liya of historic proportions. Media further changes in the market environment.” Kebede, Dunn and Alek owners, such as the U.S.-based Those measures include depreciation of inventories, organiza- Wek, among others. This parent organization of Condé tional expenses resulting from closing unprofitable stores, plus po- year, American Vogue Nast Germany, today face very tential losses from endorsement agreements with athletes that have featured Dunn and Chanel serious business challenges been canceled or renegotiated. The total cost of these steps was 25 Iman in a well shoot in its — difficulties which could not million euros, or $32.9 million, in the fourth quarter. January issue, and now has have been foreseen even a short Full-year consolidated sales grew 8.5 percent on a currency-ad- First Lady Michelle Obama time ago. In a normal economic justed basis, to 2.5 billion euros, or $3.68 billion. Business in the on its March cover. climate, we would have bravely Europe, Middle East and Africa regions grew 7 percent to 1.29 bil- Still, observers agree carried on publishing Vanity lion euros, or $1.89 billion. the increasing use of faces Fair. In today’s bleak economic A 4 percent decline in the U.S., where mall business was particu- of color in fashion partially climate, it is impossible.” larly difficult, was offset by a double-digit jump in sales across Latin stems from the impact of Vanity Fair Germany fell America to bring total business in the Americas up 8 percent to 651 the new First Lady. “Every victim to the pressures facing million euros, or $957.8 million. Meanwhile, sales in the Asia-Pacific designer would love to be many weekly magazines in region grew 13 percent to 573.6 million euros, or $843.9 million, dressing Michelle Obama, Europe’s largest economy and boosted by the consolidation of Puma’s South Korean subsidiary. so if you have someone in were specific to that title. Puma continued to expand its own retail doors last year, maintain- your show that looks like Condé Nast International ing jobs that would have been lost in its closed stores and growing her, it probably isn’t a bad continues to roll out titles that business by 15 percent to 460 million euros, or $676.8 million. thing,” said Cindi Leive, Jourdan Dunn at in Europe — including the Given the current climate, Puma declined to forecast 2009 per- editor in chief of Glamour. Oscar de la Renta. launch of Vanity Fair Spain formance. Order backlogs, used as an indication of future sales, Joe Zee, Elle’s creative last fall and Wired in Italy however, had declined 5.4 percent at yearend. director, agreed, saying, this week. Meanwhile, Puma has reduced its investments for 2009, with plans to spend “There’s a residue left over Vanity Fair Italy is one of the between 65 million and 75 million euros, or $82.2 million and $94.8 from the excitement of the company’s most successful million, including a 20 million euro, or $25.3 million, investment in inauguration. People just magazines, with over 6,000 a new company headquarters, dubbed Puma Plaza. want to bring that sort of ad pages in 2008. optimism or element of But Vanity Fair Germany no i

change on the runways.” qu faced challenges of its own, Even the modeling A with frequent staff changes, Italian Trade Show Schedule Compressed agencies are seeing including its first editor in As part of a plan to centralize Italy’s fashion system, more ranges of ethnic chief, Ulf Poschardt, who Italian officials have established a more compact calendar of inter- backgrounds come through. threw in the towel after less national trade shows that will coincide with Milan’s fashion shows “The last two years have than a year. Last month, it later this month. seen a broader, not just was announced his successor, Giovanni Bozzetti, president of the Lombardy Fashion black, but whole range of Nikolaus Albrecht, was leaving Committee, discussed this Wednesday at a press conference at New ethnic girls,” said Lee of the German edition to return York’s Rainbow Room. This week’s news builds on the success of Next. “Girls are coming in to New York as its American the M.A.D.E. in Milano program, a reference to Milan fashion, art, with [different] skin colors, correspondent. Circulation, design and events that was launched by the Lombardy Region and but they have a story to tell including subscriptions, John by homas Iannaccone; de la Renta the Lombardy Fashion Committee last year. as well. The trip from, say, T was estimated at 114,000

“The M.A.D.E. project was born from the need to transform the India to New York, or India to copies, less than other weekly Lombardy trade shows into not only exhibition fairs but also events France, Australia to Milan is Chanel Sessilee competitors such as Bunte, that are capable of giving prominence to what we define as the totally different. Clients are Iman at Lopez Gala and Stern. Italian fashion system,” said Bozzetti, noting the move reinstates becoming more interested Marc at Marc Industry observers place Milan’s role as “a strategic destination” for buyers. in that.” Jacobs. Jacobs. Vanity Fair’s start-up costs Jacobs photos by Highlighting how fashion is an essential part of Italy’s economy, Some are still skeptical, at 100,000 euros, or about Bozzetti said there are about 70,000 enterprises that generate nearly however. “You hear people paying a lot more lip $125,000. The high-end glossy, however, is not $88 billion in sales annually. service to it, but from the runway point of view, I the only title to fall a victim to the current crisis. Milano Moda Donna, Milanovendemoda, White, Micam, Mipel, haven’t seen such a surge,” said Memsor Kamarake, Competitor Gruner + Jahr shuttered Park Avenue Mifur, Mido, Touch!, NeoZone and Claudine will be held on select international fashion director of Vibe. “You go to the in November 2008, noting advertising revenues dates between Feb. 25 and March 9. With the new setup, Milano Unica, shows and you see only one or two faces of color. You had fallen short of expectations, and Burda Proposte, Sposa Italia and White Homme are the only trade shows that do see Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman. But on the announced the closures of two magazines, Young fall outside the new calendar. men’s side it’s quite deplorable. Not to say that there and Tomorrow. — Melissa Drier To broaden the reach of Italy’s fashion industry, officials behind the should be 90 percent faces of color. But instead M.A.D.E. in Milano project have been on a “fashion road show” visit- of two black models, make it four. The world won’t LET’S MAKE A DEAL: Playboy Enterprises Inc. ing Abu Dhabi; Dubai; Shanghai; Beijing; Mexico City; Guadalajara, come undone.” reported a net loss of $146 million during the Mexico; Miami, and New York. They will also visit Russia and India to Steven Kolb, executive director of the Council fourth quarter, versus a loss of $1.1 million the promote all aspects of Italian fashion, various events and the prospect of Fashion Designers of America, said he noted no prior year and acknowledged it would consider an of investing, said Michele Perini, president of Fiera Milano. notable increase of models of color on the runway. outright sale of the company, as well as a strategic Patrizio Piombi, representative of Milan’s Chamber of Commerce, He said the CFDA sends out a letter before each change of direction for Playboy magazine. The noted that Italy’s fashion system represents the engine of the coun- fashion week that, among other things, stresses timing certainly isn’t ideal, but change has been in try’s economy. With that in mind, his group opened an office in the importance of diversity. “Promoting diversity is the air for a while at Playboy, with chief executive Chicago with the hope of finding new opportunities and business something we should all be doing,” he said. Christie Hefner stepping down late last year and the partners with American companies, and promoting the elegance There have been strides, but most stressed there consolidation of the company’s editorial and online and creativity of Italian designers. is still a long way to go. “I’ve seen a more consistent operations, resulting in the closure of the New York Novel as the M.A.D.E. in Milano project is, supporters do not expect use of black models,” said model Veronica Webb. office. As for the fourth quarter, Playboy had a $1.2 other countries to copy their efforts. Beppe Modenese, honorary presi- “Does it have to do with the Obama effect? Since million segment loss in publishing, which actually dent of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, said, “Italy is the only the Black issue of Vogue and since the Obamas took represented a 17 percent improvement versus the country where you find all the factories and designers. I believe we the White House, that inspiration is running through same period the prior year. Revenues fell 11 percent are inspiration for this and for what we can do. Of course, France has a lot of the collections,” said Webb. However, she to $22 million, from lower ad and circulation beautiful things and the U.S., too. But Italy has a very special atmo- added, “I still don’t see more of different kinds of revenues and the company expects to report a 27 sphere. That would be quite difficult to repeat in another country.” faces, but we’re getting there.” percent decline in ad revenues during the first — Rosemary Feitelberg Hardison stressed that, as much as the Obamas quarter of 2009. — Amy Wicks 4 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 WWD.COM

Alicia Keys in Leonardo DiCaprio Giorgio Armani. in Giorgio Armani at the Armani store.

mayor michael Bloomberg and Caroline Kennedy in Giorgio Armani, with the designer. Ethan Hawke

mischa Barton with Harley Viera-newton in Alexander Wang. The italian Job For more, EvEryonE knows GiorGio ArmAni. And if thEy hAvEn’t met him personally, they at least know of him — the white hair, see WWD.com. tan skin, trim physique. But how well does anyone who doesn’t speak italian or french really know a designer who prefers to speak in italian or french? “he speaks a lot more English than he lets on,” said Victoria Beckham, one of Armani’s many famous friends who attended the store opening bash at his new fifth Avenue flagship tuesday night. “And he’s really funny.” “he’s a simple man,” said Liam neeson. really? “well, he’s probably very hard to please, but he’s a simple man.” “you get the feeling he’s a lover of every kind,” said Alicia Keys, who wore Julia restoin roitfeld Armani on her tour last year. in Dior at indochine. other star pals of the designer who were at the bash included Josh Hartnett, Alison Pill, natalia Vodianova, ricky martin and Leonardo DiCaprio, who made a beeline for a viP room in back. About five hours later, diCaprio showed up at indochine where Vladimir restoin roitfeld held a debaucherous after party for his new Louis vuitton-sponsored photography exhibit. his mom Carine roitfeld danced on a banquette with Charlotte Sarkozy, while Benicio Del Toro hung out by a mix of beautiful young Euros including Stavros niarchos, Tatiana Santo Domingo and Andrea Casiraghi. Kanye West and his crew, which included blond buzz-cut model Amber rose, partied with narciso rodriguez and Claire Danes at rose Bar, while on the Lower East side, Laura and Kate mulleavy celebrated their collection at eatery white slab Palace. while the mix of editors and rodarte staff — not to mention the cash bar — didn’t exactly make for an over-the-top affair, the design natalia Vodianova inin team didn’t seem to mind. “it’s so annoying not to have an after rebecca Hall Emporio Armani jacket party,” said kate. “there are so many people who worked so in narciso and Giorgio Armani hard [on this collection], like all of our interns.” rodriguez. shirt and pants. Kirsten Dunst did her part to sing the brand’s praises. “it’s rodarte,” the actress exclaimed when asked what she was wearing — despite Daisy Lowe the fact her t-shirt and skirt sure didn’t look like a Mulleavy design. A few blocks away, dJ duo Harley Viera-newton and Cassie Coane were celebrating their 21st birthdays at Arrow Bar. mary-Kate olsen, mischa Barton, Jessica Stam and Daisy Lowe were at the Modelinia- Tatiana Santo sponsored bacchanal, where party favors included star-shaped Domingo, sunglasses, indian headdresses (worn all night by olsen) and t-shirts Sanam Salek that read “i Came to Cassie and harley’s 21st Birthday and All i Got and Dasha was this Lousy hangover.” Zhukova. Meanwhile, a gaggle of Brits headed to Brooklyn for the inauguration of the Bridge Project, a collaboration between the Brooklyn Academy of Music and the Kevin Spacey-helmed old vic theater. Guests were treated to a performance of “the winter’s tale,” the second play directed by Sam mendes featuring Ethan Hawke, rebecca Hall, Sinead Cusack, Josh Hamilton and Simon russell Beale. “the Cherry orchard” opened last month. “should we go over the plot?” joked honorary chair mike nichols

s Victoria Beckham as he sat down to dinner before the performance. “i remember in Emporio Armani.

there is a big break in the middle, but that’s it.” EICHNER STEVE BY OTHERS ALL HUNTER; MARK BY PARTY BAR ARROW RUDD; SCOTT BY PHOTOS PARTY BAM

EYE on DInInG

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a stimulus package WOMEN’S FASHION SPRING 2009 The actress Rosario Dawson

Taking Fashion Forward Sophistication, design, taste and culture are always in style. Our affluent readers are on a never-ending journey to discover exciting trends with enduring value and T, The New York Times Style Magazine, is their ultimate destination. Inspire T’s discerning readers and experience their power to take fashion forward. For a customized advertising plan designed for today’s market, contact Seth Rogin, Vice President, Advertising at (212) 556-1437, [email protected], or log onto nytmediakit.com.

FIVE YEARS OF CURATING THE CULTURE OF STYLE. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009

NewThere’s nothing likeYork a good dose of chic, and i t camePolish down the runways in a bold way, whether in punchy colors or sharp silhouettes. Oscar de la Renta: Remember when Oscar de la Renta turned philanderer and was courting young babes by adding in Oscar de la Renta Oscar de la Renta runway looks that veered toward ingénue? Well, silly young things: Out of the way, because Oscar’s going home to mama. He announced the end of — or more likely, a respite from — his wandering ways by doing his models up with refined makeup and Judy Peabody hair. They wore clothes that should keep de la Renta’s core ladies — the ones who might just still have a few bucks to spend — enthralled, and if their range made for a bit of a hodgepodge, at least the gals will have plenty of choice. Which is not to say de la Renta offered no direction. Indeed, his credo to the faithful: Dress up, a message flagged by the first look out — a black wool dress, its discretion succumbed to the fluff of skunk in scarf and mittens, with just a soupçon of Cruella de Vil. What followed was all polish. While de la Renta didn’t ignore the suit, showing a lovely gray wool tweed and a pants version in shiny aubergine silk-and-wool, he preferred dresses and skirt looks, often delivering a racy touch via his favorite add- on: a vest, in feathered sable, lynx-spotted silk or quilted broadtail. On a calmer note, he showed some wonderful richly textured cashmere cardigans over skirts. When it came to evening, de la Renta was relatively restrained, which was a problem with a few half-hearted party poufs. However, he ignored the recession to end on a high note — two major crinoline ballgowns to take your breath away. And if anyone can charm a gal breathless, it’s you-know-who.

Michael Kors: For his answer to the great recession quandary, Michael Kors came down firmly on the side of elegant practicality over indulgence. “Investment pieces don’t have to be boring,” he said. “They can be sexy.” And so his were, beginning with the series of black Michael Kors looks that opened the show — wool satin trenchcoat, jersey sheath, sweater and bubble skirt. These gave way to herringbones, tony tweeds — an organza suit and a curvy, big-collared Donegal coat looked fab — and plenty of the lush cashmere meltons Kors loves, the shapes almost all rooted in the classics. While once the zip might have come in peppy prints or glitzy add-ons, here the details came via construction, whether architectural seaming, politely unexpected cutouts or, Kors’ favorite motif, origami folds that extended shoulders and gave controlled volume to skirts and dresses. Yet appealing though the results often were, at times they felt downright un-Korsian. Not that the clothes were a bit sober — sobriety seldom comes in so sexy a package. But Kors dug in his investment heels a bit too authoritatively, much like a frugal parent insisting the kids save three-quarters of their allowance. Smart, yes, far- sighted, for sure — and in this case, plenty chic — just not much fun. Happily, Kors caved on the remaining 25 percent or so, with flashy neon fur coats and trapper hats. Because some girls will have to transition to the new austerity. Kors beefed up the men’s portion of the show and focused on his commercial strengths: impeccably tailored staples, expensive-looking fabrics and sumptuous cashmere knits. In knitwear, he took more liberty to experiment, adding volume with an oversize cowl or a dolman sleeve and, of course, unleashing those highlighter-pen colors. Overall, the men’s styling showed increased sophistication and freedom from its past overreliance on accessories.

Narciso Rodriguez: Does a modern woman need to arm herself — sartorially speaking, that is — to survive unknowns, economic and otherwise? According to Rodriguez, absolutely. Camouflage prints and militaristic shaping — sharp cap sleeves, tight high collars — told a warrior story, mostly one of winning moments.Rodriguez’s muse has always been body-conscious, and he constructs curve-hugging silhouettes that at their best eschew overt sizzle for streamlined sensuality, a theme that started out superbly here: chic skinny gabardine riding pants and taupe twill jackets, cut narrow with crisscross paneling. The daywear was followed with silk crepe dresses in white and acid green and lean knit sheaths, some with attached fluttering scarves and hooded bodysuits, calling to mind a lean and groovy Amelia Earhart. The jackets, too, in jacquard, mohair and wool tweed, offered up excellent cool-weather coverage, which by contrast made those Lite-Brite bandage dresses seem derivative and loud. And while there may be only so much utility in this statement print, the black-and-white camouflage motif — worked into lace dresses and chine coats and pants and paired with Albertus Swanepoel’s terrifically spooky bucket hats — lent a clever take-no-prisoners vibe. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 7 collections/fall WWD.COM NEW ’09 YORK s

s Michael Kors thomas iannaccone s

s Narciso Rodriguez eichner and teve S

george chinsee, Photos by 8 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009

collections/fall NEW ’09 YORK

Marchesa

Marchesa

Marchesa: Brava to Georgina Chapman for her bold rejection J.Mendel: Gilles Mendel noted in the program that his of restraint, so exquisitely rendered. Fantasy has always customers — an event-going bunch — have “been asking for been Chapman’s stock in trade, but the fanciful, these days more day clothes,” which he smartly rendered in double- perhaps even decadent, assemblage of tulled, embroidered, face black wool pants and luxe toppers in rich furs like frothed and frilled gowns she offered for fall took the broadtail, as well as stripped mink mixed with gray tweeds notion of glamorous reverie one step further. As if conjuring and black cashmere in boxy or cocoon shapes. Mendel is a little girl’s daydream of grown-up sophistication, by trade a furrier, and his technical expertise was evident Chapman crafted a black tulle mini embroidered with on sharp cropped vests, one with a fox collar and another unicorns, which evoked the glittering ice skater’s uniform gray-and-white ombré number. That said, his ready- as eveningwear; a remarkable origami-pleated gown had to-wear has come far: There were short wool dresses a princess aura. Indeed, that’s precisely what Chapman trimmed with delicate satin crepe, and stunning draped had in mind, noting beforehand that she “wanted to make gowns in damask and silk georgette, awash in navy, burnt it all about fairy tales.” And she succeeded, beginning orange and mauve. Old-world elegant pieces like these with frosty-pink ruffled cocktail dresses and ending with require a modern touch, which Mendel offered by way of a showstopping crystal-embroidered tank dress. There stiff black ribbon and crystal detailing. Another highlight? was nothing precious, however, about these pieces: The coiled, rainbow-colored crystal brooches and cuffs by extraordinarily constructed, with sculpted bows and Subversive’s Justin Giunta, a fresh take on the heirloom crystal embroidery adorning straps and bodices, each dress jewels that typically accompany these kinds of clothes. was its own beautiful invention. And lest things get too confectionary, there were some palate cleansers, served Tory Burch: Tory Burch is trading in her sandals and up as a sleek crimson jumpsuit and sharp black jacket, its ballet flats for a pair of ready-to-rumble combat boots. Marchesa peaked shoulders cut into tiny stars. This season, she’s gone streetwise and edgy. But it’s not WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 9 WWD.COM

Tory Burch J.Mendel Doo.Ri

Richard Chai

For all collections’ complete run of show, see WWD.com. a total 180 — Burch still has those charming ladyfied Furs — a silver fox cardigan or jagged-edge pieces, as in the polkadot blouse and a prettily allover shrug — added instant edge and sex appeal petaled jacket. The rest just skews oh-so-darkly glam. when thrown over terrific tailored pants and “I’m pushing the limits,” said Burch. “There’s a lot of a draped blouse. Indeed, this was a cooler,

leather.” Indeed, she cut everything from a ruffled top darker side of Doo.Ri, one the designer further GIANNONI AND GIOVANNI and moto jacket to skirts and leggings from the biker indulged in the extras. Those bedazzled lace favorite. And to this, she added a boy-meets-girl motif, stockings, for example, almost stole the show. which explained the military and nautical touches throughout. To wit: the skinny camo pant or the sturdy Richard Chai: Of the lot of promising, young New York belted red coat. As for the moneymaking accessories designers, Richard Chai is a quiet one, forgoing lineup, what’s not to love? She had great slouchy leather fanfare to focus on well-balanced sportswear THOMAS IANNACCONE bags and to-die-for velvet pumps with a bamboo heel. that’s beautiful but never pretentious. He took a more aggressive approach to fall with mixed results. Doo.Ri: In an apparent about-face from last season’s On one hand, silk parkas, tailored waistcoats and sportif, Doo-Ri Chung copped a glam rock attitude for cashmere sweaters toughened up with asymmetric fall. Not only did the mood swing suit Chung’s jerseys, zippers were great wardrobe staples. While shaggy now darkly romantic as dresses, in deep purple, black shearlings and silver fox furs made for a pleasantly and mercury, and some gently ruffled at the collar, but it edgy moment, the peaked shoulder effects and CENTENO, TALAYA AQUINO,

made for a smooth segue into other motifs. Her draping, slouchy pants felt predictable. And as hard as the JOHN twisting and tucking skills were expertly applied to artsy, pink and purple abstract plaid print tried, t structured silk cocktail dresses, undulating embroidery particularly on head-to-toe looks, it didn’t give this J.Mendel on a gray coat and a vest embellished with twisted zippers. collection the distinctive quality it needed. PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 s

s 3.1 Phillip Lim

collections/fall NEW ’09 YORK

MaxAzria

MaxAzria: Perhaps Max and Lubov Azria were cribbing design ideas from Angelina Meanwhile, Lim’s men’s wear bore none of the childish proportions and colors Jolie, who donned one of their spring gowns backwards at the Golden Globes a of past seasons, but what exactly replaced that playful point of view remained few weeks back. The cap-sleeve minidresses the duo sent forth seemed similarly a mystery. Why bother trying to fathom a relationship between band uniforms, reversed, with their high necks and paneled backs; the look was futuristic, but hunting, metal studs and leisure suits? The limited men’s showing was simply a hardly flattering. In keeping with the lineup’s Goth aura, there were black lace scattered and unsatisfying representation. bodysuits, Ultrasuede leggings and mesh jackets and corsets piled up in stormy colors, mixed with leather jackets and an occasional house signature — the bright Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti’s sugary side got a dollop of spice for fall. jersey dress. Clearly the pair have a following, but that devotion lies in the ease of “I like to call it ‘sweet rock,’” she said at her presentation for Philosophy. Ferretti their filmy, elegantly draped clothes, of which there were too few this time out. tempered her signature romance — beaded embellishments, gentle plissés — with a tough-chic vibe in the form of black and gunmetal colors, spiked by occasional jolts 3.1 Phillip Lim: Phillip Lim gave his clothes names like “Hendrix” and “Carnaby,” and of orange and purple. The designer also did her part for the emerging fur trend. kicked off the show with a performance by Lissy Trullie. This was clearly going to be There was ample tuft stuff — an Empire-waist tank, for instance, with long-haired a trip to the rocking London Sixties, complete with a Peggy Moffitt angled coif. And, goat fur peeking out from under it. Ferretti’s point-counterpoint continued in the sure, Lim’s women were Youthquake cool. They wore ruffled silk dandy blouses, play of masculine and feminine silhouettes as well as in piled-on combinations of skinny boot-leg pants, fluttery Ossie Clark-like dresses and Mongolian fur chubbies, textures and textiles. Case in point: the structured two-tone coat worn with a mixed- not to mention peaked-shoulder tuxedo jackets that veered into Seventies glam rock fabric top and fluid pants. Even her eveningwear got a witchy boost of dark glamour, in a silver paisley jacquard version. But the collection could have benefited from a as in the wispy pleated ebony gown with sequined and sheer panels. less stylized hand. Strip the heavy-handed thematics and you saw what makes Lim such a force in the market: terrific coats with breakaway hems, draped pullovers Marc by Marc Jacobs: If Marc Jacobs was a riotous romp through the Eighties club and one excellent parka with rabbit-fur lining. scene, then this was his girl before she hit her naughty New York streak. Go back a WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 11 WWD.COM

Carmen Marc Valvo Marc by Marc Jacobs

Marc by Marc Jacobs giannoni and thomas iannaccone giovanni centeno, talaya john aquino, asha antonov, p

Baby PhatPhat byby KimoraKimora LeeLee

s Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti Simmons/KLS CollectionCollection Photos by

few years and she’s the gawky rebellious teen rummaging through Mom’s candy.” Accordingly, he showed mermaid gowns with lots of draping and sexy Annie Hall threads. Thus, the collection worked a piled-on, hodgepodge little cocktail dresses, as well as dazzling separates such as a metallic pewter vibe with silhouettes that were relaxed and oversize. Take, for instance, tulle blouse with full flannel pants. And what gave the lineup its allure was the the mannish herringbone blazer and trousers, layered under a fringe gray way Valvo tweaked the embellishments, such as overlaying sequins, caviar beads shawl and accessorized with a felt hat and fuzzy toggle boots. The English and paillettes with silk tulle, or metallic lace, on a cashmere coat. He also played haberdashery-meets-hip-hop mood continued throughout — the latter in the with ribbon appliqués on dresses or coats and crystal beads on wool tweed skirts. baggy fits and the former, in twill, tweed and corduroy fabrications. Even a It was that extra touch that made the collection an appealing package. sweet bow-neck top took a downtown spin when cut in plaid flannel. In cool counterpoint, Jacobs included pops of bright, kicky color, as seen in the Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons/KLS Collection: Kimora Lee Simmons has proven color-block tights. But for all that youthful slant, this was one of the more to be highly versatile over the years, so perhaps her plan was to offer customers grown-up and pulled-together outings for Jacobs’ secondary label. a little taste of many different trends. Then again, maybe she was just feeling Meanwhile, the men’s wear had surprising polish, though youthful as distracted since she’s six months pregnant with her third child, a boy. Whatever always. If the Marc boy hasn’t matured per se, he’s definitely gained an the reason, both of her collections, shown in tandem, were all over the place. interest in sartorial tradition. Perfectly tailored jackets came in tweed There were naughty girls in studded black leather and ripped jeans or a sexy and corduroy, a professorial counterpoint to expandable gym pants. baby-doll dress that stepped out of the boudoir. Serious young ladies turned up Wrinkled silk paisleys and a cardigan with a unique argyle/stripe pattern in tweed and glamour gals in topcoats trimmed with gold chains or spangled demonstrated an irreverent awareness of tradition as well as boyish cheek. cocktail dresses. There were pieces, in fact, for every sort of girl — which may not be such a bad idea after all. Carmen Marc Valvo: Carmen Marc Valvo wanted to offer his ladies irresistible Simmons’ attempt at a men’s collection, however, managed to touch on many evening clothes that are “like a perfectly wrapped, delicious piece of stereotypes about urban streetwear that are simply passé. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 WWD.COM

Joanna Nanette Mastroianni Lepore s G-Star t NY Raw

collections/fall NEW ’09 YORK

Joanna Mastroianni: Joanna Mastroianni offered some great looks for her increasing the chest of a paisley dress, were effective. Others, however, seemed messy, and in number of younger customers, along with her loyal ladies. Consider the short, sexy the end, the strongest pieces were those that showed restraint. dresses in black leather and lace, or the crisp, cap-sleeve silk A-line versions. But there was fine fare for those who are still dressing up in Palm Beach; a beautiful black silk, G-Star NY Raw: Dueling grand pianos set the stage and Benicio Del Toro closed the pagoda-embroidered jacket and easy pants, for example. And plenty of looks would suit show with his spoken word version of “Candidate” by Joy Division. What came in both young and more mature fans, especially the draped black silk cocktail numbers. between was G-Star’s luxed-up lineup of utilitarian wares for which the brand is known. For women, outerwear ranged from cutaway coats in wool and cashmere Nanette Lepore: Nanette Lepore’s collection featured her usual flouncy blouses and to parkas in coated denim. Denim fur was a new technique that offered softness to skirts along with playful wool sweaters and jackets. Pops of violet and a deep rose varnished denim dresses or superslouchy trousers. Knits played a bigger role this were unifying factors, pumping up the volume in more conservative looks like a season as patch details on the back of a blazer or as a cozy sweater. wool vest and sweater with a tweed jacket and wool shorts. Lepore’s quirky, crafty The men’s wear was far less tricked out with hyper-functional features than nature has won her quite a following, and some of her uses of fabrics, such as an usual and included a surprising degree of subdued tailored pieces — even dandyish open-worked plaid wool for a coat and a dress or a metallic basket-weave inset in eveningwear. more from the shows... Lauren Pierce: For the second outing of Lauren her eco- and ethically-minded capsule Pierce Extra Touches collection, Lauren Bush, niece of the “Tough shoes for tough times,” was Alejandro former president, put a sweet and simple Ingelmo’s mantra for fall. And his collection, spin on organic wool and handwoven with its vampy platforms and touches of Cambodian silk with classic shift dresses, metal, featured just that. Light beige cigarette pants and dainty button-up tones paired with reflective copper and blouses. flat, over-the-knee boots with hardware were the sexy-yet-commercial Alice + Olivia: Stacey Bendet roughed highlights. Meanwhile, Amanda things up at Alice + Olivia, offering her Pearl continued to be youthful trendhound customer funky inspired by her international dresses and tops with exposed zippers, travels as she updated her ripped denim and leggings, and sequined classic silhouettes in bright

minis. new materials: hand-painted Alejandro mitra Cynthia splatter-motif evening bags Ingelmo Steffe Temperley London: Touches of the Orient Propr Generra influenced by an Edward James — metallic embroidery, tasseled panels — Surrealist garden in Las Pozas, gave Alice Temperley’s Grecian columns Cynthia Steffe: Tipping his hat subtly to the glam-rock era of Mexico and abstract animal-print and minidresses an edge, while the collection was made Bowie and company, Shaun Kearney worked a deft balance brocade handbags suggested by a more versatile with solid layering pieces such as skinny between prim and rock ’n’ roll, as in pretty ruffle dresses safari in Kenya. Pearl also added trousers and an origami-pleated overcoat. cut in leather or a moto jacket tossed over a demure skirt. costume jewelry this time, including jimi celeste and robert a silk leaf, mother-of-pearl and glass Generra: Layering is a key element at Generra, where for fall Propr: David Arquette, Ben Harper and David Bedwell’s necklace and headband, as well as a cute plaid cape or short-sleeved puffer was dutifully piled second outing offered sportswear classics — a plaid wool big round papier-mâché pieces that on over nubby knits paired with sweet floral or corduroy trenchcoat, a corduroy blazer, cotton shirtdresses — that start at $20 wholesale. Brooklyn- minis, offering a look that, if not new, was perfectly are undeniably wearable, if not particularly groundbreaking. based I Love Factory, for its part, pleasing just the same. showed a collection of pretty hand- Don the Verb: Dark glamour — it’s a theme getting much sewn millinery inspired by spring john aquino, asha antonov, p Tibi: Inspired by the Russian fairy tale “The Tale of the play this season, and Don the Verb’s Yanina Landsaat perennials. Firebird,” Amy Smilovic’s collection included everything and Hana Astrom’s take on it was decidedly leisurely — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout and from a Siberian cape coat to plenty of beaded dresses, all and relaxed, as seen in the easy, languid gowns cut like Shoshanna Fischhoff Amanda Pearl

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iPhone is a trademark of Apple Inc. Apple is not a participant in or sponsor of this promotion. 14 WWD, thursday, february 19, 2009 WWD.COM

1909 Victorinox collections/fall Trovata NEW ’09 YORK

Michael Bastian

1909 Victorinox: The inaugural showing of Pierre-Henri Mattout’s 1909 collection, more from the shows... in only its second season, attempted to Domenico Vacca: Vacca’s traditional Neapolitan broaden the scope of Victorinox beyond tailoring lent plenty of polish to a broad, powerful performance outerwear and travel gear. silhouette. Mattout delivered a youthful, modern Domenico collection while never losing sight of Coventry: Though the Vacca function, the core value of Victorinox, Scottish countryside maker of the Swiss Army Knife. The vibe of Matthew Terry’s performance aspect of athletic suits, runway debut felt a bit tapered ski pants and padded outerwear stale at times, there were was self-evident. some noteworthy pieces Gradually, technical materials and in the women’s lineup, futuristic surfaces gave way to a cozy, après- such as knit riding pants ski mood. Long johns, a mottled sweater set and kiltlike wool gauze and groovy patterned shirts looked right skirts. Terry’s expertise in for fireside cocktails. In contrast, austere knitwear is clear enough, vests, tailored jackets and trousers were but the men’s wear Mattout’s nod to the Amish and their rites lacked both the body of adolescent experimentation. A varsity consciousness and the jacket and a numbered jersey also added polish of the women’s. youth appeal. Whether it’s enough to get a young fashion consumer excited about the Nice Collective: The brand remains to be seen. degrees of undress and Shine On layered dishevelment TECH FABRICS Michael Bastian: Michael Bastian took made it difficult to REFLECTED Jack Kerouac’s “On the Road” and the discern a point of view road movie “My Own Private Idaho” for men, who sometimes CORE VALUES AT as inspiration to create a diverse cast looked like they’d run out VICTORINOX AS of travelers. The cheerfully preppy of a burning apartment in wardrobe Bastian is known for ceded the middle of the night. TROVATA GREW UP by varying degrees to a Nineties grunge AND BASTIAN HIT look more befitting a sexy drifter, though the designer steered clear of the stories’ THE ROAD. dark themes of drug use and prostitution. Camouflage pieces, hunting garb and alpine mitra accents added a strong outdoor flavor to the collection, which was extensively merchandised as always.

Trovata: In the show notes, Trovata’s John Whitledge invoked “this challenging time” and stated his goal of making the audience smile — which made it somewhat of a For full runs of downer to see that, in its men’s wear, Trovata show from all the had lost much of its sense of playfulness. That’s true even if what we’re seeing is just collections, see the natural loss of innocence that comes WWD.com. with growing up. The focus has shifted from witty gimmicks to clean tailoring, but slightly quirky collars and fasteners and jewel tones added needed levity. george chinsee, thomas iannaccone and robert aquino,

In women’s wear, that lightness was john reflected in classic fishermen sweaters Nice paired with boudoir-worthy minis trimmed Collective Coventry

with lace or boyish trousers. photos by ADVERTISEMENT the FEBRUARY 19, 2009 RUNWAY REPORT

Fashion’s New Rules Diversity is key for the Fall/Winter 2009 runway season as each designer VerrierCarlos deals with the reality of today’s world. Whether fl aunting a collection that fl ies in the face of Miele adversity or giving a subtle nod to that reality, each is moving forward with his or her own unique perspective and inspiration. Color, understandable silhouettes and versatile, yet unique fabrics rule the day and fur fi ts perfectly into the season’s focus on extraordinary looks with a fashion point of view. The result: high-style pieces that are collectible and wearable.

Thakoon Luca Carolina Luca Herrera

the collection, played out in Miele’s fur looks as well with his dark gray patchwork mink jacket with black mink detail and a cardigan-style tuxedo coat in pastel mink patchwork with a brown mink border. Both offered his customer a modern take on Thakoon Luca Luca Carolina Herrera mink. A gray ruffl e-front astrakhan bolero Designer Thakoon pushes forward with Designer Raul Melgoza is a man dedicated Carolina Herrera is in an understated, yet with black sheared-mink collar played into his vibrant fashion message for Fall/Winter to the mission of bringing new strength elegant mood for Fall/Winter 2009. She Miele’s fascination with femininity. A rich 2009 with an emphasis on color, fur and to a brand with an established ethic of knows that her customer will respond to the aubergine cropped patchwork shrug, the fun. When every model sported a lush fox chic. The label is known for its pretty one-of-a-kind, richly colored and textured perfect topper for his charmeuse evening toque, the audience recognized from the dresses and sportswear, but this season fabrics and looks presented on her runway. gown, could just as easily be worn with start that Thakoon has an affi nity for fur. the designer amps it up a notch by also Herrera focuses on slim, waist-defi ning sexy jeans. Miele’s fall collection proved Neutrals – dove gray, mushroom, ivory and focusing on suits to reinforce the feminine looks, turning them out in deep copper, once again that the designer’s unique black – were the base of the collection and brand. The collection, rooted in shades of caviar, cassis and lapis blue. A forest green perspective on women and fashion is a the designer executed them beautifully in gray with touches of blue and burgundy, turn-back collar mink jacket is cinched winning formula. a black chiffon blouse with a tiered silver featured smart furs for his sophisticated with a link belt and shown with statement- fox stole and an African gray feathered fox customer. Some casual chic winners from making lace trousers. This richly elegant Verrier bomber. But canary yellow, bottle green, the collection include a dyed ombre fox jacket would work equally well with tweed, orange, fuchsia, indigo and red provided chubby, perfect with grey fl annel trousers, herringbone or fl annel. Herrera’s Swakara the color boost that gave the collection and a cropped charcoal wool jacket with coat with silk pant has a collectible, one-of- its vibe and vitality. Yellow, the season’s sheared-mink collar and cuffs. His long a-kind feel, a subtle take on fur that makes newest fashion star, was the basis for a black wool knit vest layered in dyed fox was a lasting impression. wool felt coat with dyed-to-match golden shown belted to double as a sporty dress. A fox collar as well as a feathered fox chubby rich blue Swakara jacket showed his ability touched with black. Thakoon’s furs were to create clean, elegant wardrobe must- Carlos Miele an adventure in fantasy – all brightly haves. The collection also paid attention Brazilian designer Carlos Miele presented colored and feathered. From his king to its customers’ dressier needs: a black an eminently wearable collection that parrot-feathered fox-winged cape to an sheared-mink capelet with stand-up collar refl ected his interest in architecture, orange and green fox bomber, it was a fun and jeweled brooch was heavenly for the modernity and the female form. Geometric fashion romp sure to cheer his fans. cocktail set. patterns and prints, much evident in Verrier Smart, sassy and confi dent. Ashleigh Verrier knows her customer. For Fall/Winter 2009, Verrier sent out a beautifully constructed collection aimed at the pretty young things she dresses. Framed in black and white with a dollop of red and midnight blue, Verrier’s designs hit all the right notes with a fl irty mix of girly looks and men’s wear styles and patterns softened with just the right feminine details. The result: smart, wearable looks that are sure to please. Case in point: a coquettish midnight blue wool tweed dress with mink sleeve detail. For bolder looks, Verrier fashions fur into a sexy cropped black shearling jacket worn with men’s wear-inspired glen plaid pants and a black leather and mink gilet layered over a sheer paisley dress – wardrobe essentials to wear with jeans or dresses and perfect for clubbing or for going out on the town with one’s BFF. THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE CHOICE

323.782.1700 www.fur.org 16 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 WWD.COM Anticipation High Heading Into Saint Laurent, Bergé Auction

By Ellen Groves Saint Laurent’s salon de musique PARIS — Art collectors from the world over are expected to descend on the Rue Babylone. upon Paris this weekend for the auction of some 700 pieces of art ac- crued by the late designer Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé over 50 years. Given that some of the pieces — “The Portrait of Mme L.R.,” by Brancusi, and Duchamp’s “Belle Haleine” — are the last known works by those artists in private hands, the three-day sale, which starts Monday, is expected to break records. And while the Brancusi and a Cubist-era Picasso are among pieces that have been down-valued since the auction was first announced last fall, Christie’s, which is organizing the sale in collaboration with Pierre Bergé and Associates, hopes it will still exceed 300 million euros, or some $380 million at current exchange. Christie’s already has given Bergé a substantial cash advance on the sale. “Sometimes it’s better to buy a masterpiece, an important piece of art, than have money in your bank,” said François De Ricqlès, vice president of Christie’s France. “If it was a great drawing in 1980, say, when Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé bought it, it’s still a great drawing today and will be, in 10 or in 20 years’ time, a great drawing.” Bergé, for whom the collection lost its significance when Saint Laurent died last June, said Wednesday he feels neither regret nor nos- talgia on parting with the collection. “I am waiting to see how this sale will proceed with calm and with confidence,” he said, adding the scene unfolding in the Grand Palais, which is hosting an auction for the first time, is like a film. In 11 rooms, spreading more than 130,000 square feet, interior architect Nathalie Criniere has created an elaborate setting that includes replica designs of Saint Laurent’s salon and dining room. “I am For more on YSL’s looks and launches, see WWD.com. dazzled. It’s extraordinary,” Bergé said of the overall effect. While the media (some 200 journalists and 25 TV crews are expected to attend) has nearly run out of superlatives to describe what is most often referred to Christie’s has nearly sold out of the 6,000 copies of the whopping 1,800-page, as “the sale of the century,” two pieces have gained plenty of column inches. 10-kilogram, $290 catalogue box set, which includes portraits of Saint Laurent and In recent weeks, China has increased pressure to halt the sale of two animal foun- Bergé plus photographs of the oeuvres juxtaposed in their various homes. It also tainheads, one of a rat, the other a rabbit, among 12 taken from the Summer Palace of includes essays by art historians and personal accounts from the gallery owners the Emperor Qianlong in Beijing when it was looted by Anglo-French forces during who helped build the collection. the Second Opium War. A spokesman for China’s foreign ministry told a press confer- Alain Tarcia recalls how Saint Laurent and Bergé bought “The Portrait of Mme ence in Beijing last week that the pieces had been stolen by intruders and should be L.R.” by Brancusi on the spot without any hesitation or negotiation. “Of course I was returned to China, while a team of 80 lawyers is said to be preparing a lawsuit. very surprised by how fast they made their decision,” Tarcia relates. “It’s not every “We received nothing. No lawsuits,” reported de Ricqlès. day a customer comes into your gallery and walks out with a Brancusi.” Christie’s has repeatedly insisted that all of the objects under auction, including Brothers Nicolas and Alexis Krugel, meanwhile, tell how Saint Laurent famously the fountainheads, have a clear history of ownership. “We strictly adhere to any and challenged them. “One day he brought us a photograph of Marie-Laure de Noailles, all local and international laws with respect to cultural property and national patri- taken by Willy Maywald, showing her seated next to a gueridon overloaded with gold mony of art,” the house stated. boxes, Augsburg animals, Renaissance “The Chinese would be better off tak- clocks and Paduan bronzes.” ing care of human rights,” Bergé told Saint Laurent apparently declared him- WWD. “These pieces were indeed stolen, self obsessed with the image. “I have made but it’s an affair that’s as old as the hills. you a blow up of the gueridon. I would like It’s like the frieze from the Parthenon to create a similar ensemble.” that’s in the British Museum in London. Divided into five categories, first under All the museums in the world are filled the hammer Monday is Impressionist with Greek sculptures that were stolen. and modern art. Tuesday will start with It’s nothing new.” Old Master and 19th-century paintings, Bergé played down speculation the followed by silver and miniatures, then strength of public feeling about the bronze Art Deco of the 20th century for the eve- heads in China could prompt a consumer ning. The final sale will include sculp- backlash against Yves Saint Laurent, or tures, archeology, furniture and Asian art. even French products in that country. Christie’s will man 100 phone lines while “This has nothing to do with the Yves bids can also be placed via the Internet. Saint Laurent brand. It is to do with me Proceeds from the sale, meanwhile, will and me alone,” he said. A spokesman for be donated. Saint Laurent bequeathed his Yves Saint Laurent, meanwhile, declined half of the collection to the Pierre Bergé- to comment on the matter. Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, while Chinese protests aside, huge queues The famous Mondrian composition, Matisse’s “Le Danseur” and “The Portrait of Mme L.R.” Bergé will put his share toward a new are expected at the Grand Palais, which by Brancusi. foundation he’s created to fight AIDS. will be open to the public for two-and-a- For collectors of Saint Laurent’s better- half days, from 9 a.m. to midnight Saturday and Sunday, and from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. known passion, an auction of another kind takes place next week, timed to coincide Monday before the three-day sale begins Monday evening. with the art sale. Private viewings have also been scheduled, including a soiree Friday for Bergé’s Around 900 vintage Saint Laurent pieces, from dresses, suits and furs to jewel- friends, former Saint Laurent couture staff, friends of the foundation and the AIDS r y, dating from 1962 to 2002, will go under the hammer at Drouot Richelieu auction charity Sidaction, plus a host of designers. Members of American Friends of the house. Highlights include a swirl-printed dress from the fall-winter 1979 Homage to Louvre will also be treated to a private viewing Monday, followed by a Champagne Picasso and Diaghilev collection, which is expected to fetch between 5,000 and 6,000 cocktail hosted by the Duke and Duchess of Estissac Pierre-Louis and Sabine de La euros, or $6,300 and $7,600. The pieces will be displayed next Tuesday and Wednesday, Rochefoucauld at their home near the Grand Palais. with the sale itself on Thursday and Friday.

EYE on HoT SPoTS

WWD’S nEWEST ADVERTISInG oPPoRTUnITY WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 17 WWD.COM

Robert Siegel Returns to Move Lacoste Forward Siegel By Whitney Beckett Siegel, who served as ceo of the com- at Nordstrom and Jeffrey, and the active pany for seven years, growing it 10-fold collection, which will add golf to its tradi- RobeRt Siegel iS back fRom what during that time period to a $320 mil- tional tennis offerings this year) — were might rank as the shortest retirement in lion brand, declined to comment on why all goals both men shared. fashion history — and he has no plans to Skinner resigned, or what the differences Siegel’s plan does add emphasis to retire again any time soon. between the lacoste board and former direct sales, particularly e-commerce. the 72-year-old returned earlier kellwood ceo were. During his previous tenure, he added 64 this month as chief executive officer of but Siegel said the three goals for boutiques, 13 outlets and e-commerce lacoste USa, just five weeks after pass- 2009 that Skinner shared with wwD to the former purely wholesale busi- ing the reins to former kellwood co. last month — growing women’s, deep- ness. “we think e-commerce is the way head Robert c. Skinner Jr. ening wholesale penetration within america is shopping today,” Siegel said, Skinner resigned two weeks ago, existing doors, and further distinguish- adding January e-commerce sales were with lacoste’s french parent company ing lacoste’s four subbrands (the core up 40 percent over last year. (outlet busi- Devanlay U.S. inc. citing “differences sportswear line; the pricier and more ness was also up 24 percent, full-price with the board” as the reason for the exclusive black label relaunching for fall retail was flat, and wholesale was down quick split. Skinner could not be reached at better specialty stores; the new contem- for January.) for comment. porary red label that debuted for spring Siegel is projecting flat sales for 2009, after finishing 2008 slightly up. “we’re not a luxury brand — we’re a premium brand,” For on Lacoste’s leadership said Siegel, adding the aver- age retail price was less and looks, see WWD.com. than $100. “we should inc., chairman and ceo at Stride Rite be more successful corp. and ceo of levi Strauss & co., than most people in where he launched Dockers in 1986. “i the market.” realized i probably shouldn’t have re- Siegel said a senior tired. Unfortunately, it took a retirement, executive from lacoste a party and five weeks off to realize it. in Paris called him No one saw what happened coming, but about two weeks ago, it was fortuitous. the change for me was asking if he would fly to that they sincerely wanted and needed Paris in two days, and he me, which means a lot. i wouldn’t have did, indefinitely cancel- gone back to work for anyone else — i ling a vacation with his love this brand.” wife. there, he was told Siegel will continue to work from Skinner had resigned, and his office in charleston, S.c., on most the company asked Siegel mondays and fridays, commuting to to return. work in New York on tuesdays through “i got five weeks off — i thursdays. “the commute part wasn’t my feel like the french now,” first choice, but i did it for seven years

photos by kyle ericksen kyle by photos said Siegel, who was for- and can do it for a few more,” Siegel said. Siegel embraces Skinner’s plan to further differentiate Lacoste’s four subbrands: merly managing director “this isn’t a temporary return — this is (from left) sport, core sportswear, black label and silver label. at kurt Salmon associates my encore.” BEAUTY BEAT Rite Aid Launches Own Sun Care NEW YORK — Rite aid is launching its own premium quality sun care line to compete with national brands and those found at high-end specialty retailers, but at a lower price tag. Seven of the products will feature the Skin cancer foundation Seal of Recommendation. called Rx Suncare, the eight items all retail for less than $10 and are now available at Rite aid’s more than 4,900 stores across the country. industry sources estimate the line could generate at least $8 million in retail sales within two years. Rite Aid’s Rx Suncare assortment. Sun care sales are on the rise in the mass market with information Resources inc. data showing that total sales volume in food, drug and mass stores hit $606 million, up 6 percent for the period ended feb. 9 (excluding wal-mart) over the same period the year before. Drug chains control about 48 percent of mass sales. “Sun care product purchases are made primarily in drugstores be- cause sun care is skin care and skin care is considered a health-related decision,” said bryan Shirtliff, Rite aid’s senior vice president, category management. “to help our customers make wise sun care choices, Rite aid and the Skin cancer foundation want to educate and raise aware- ness about the risks and proper prevention of skin cancer from UV rays.” the eight items are: lip balm Sunblock SPf 45, faces Sunblock SPf 50, advanced Protection SPf 30, advanced Protection SPf 50, Sport Sunblock SPf 50, kids Sunblock SPf 50, advanced Protection continuous Spray, SPf 30 and a burn Relief mask. to earn the seal of recommendation from the Skin cancer foundation, each Rx Suncare product underwent stringent laboratory testing for safety and efficacy standards. Rx Suncare is the latest of several Rite aid initiatives to offer high-quality, prestigelike exclusives to help distinguish Rite aid from the competition. Rite aid has a similar program in specialty bath with its own Pure Spring labels. Private labels account for about 12 percent of total front-end sales, according to Rite aid documents. — Faye Brookman Kurkdjian Receives Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres PARIS — Perfumer francis kurkdjian received the chevalier des arts et des lettres medal, given by france’s minister of culture, on friday. the perfumer, who works solo as well as with takasago, was the nose behind scents such as Jean Paul gaultier’s le mâle, lanvin’s Rumeur and lancôme’s miracle homme. he also plans to open his own perfume house in September. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009

SWISS MISS: Most designers crave fueled feast. A relaxed Ferretti FASHION SCOOPS a sliver of post-show downtime but held court at the center of the AU NATUREL: Michael Kors’ Dennis Basso has gotten up and out to table, chatting with Amanda upbeat show on Wednesday drum up his international business. Peet and Devon Aoki, while Becki morning drew a crowd of his While checking in for a SwissAir flight Newton and Peaches Geldof loyal supporters like Heidi Klum, Wednesday night, the designer said he shared pet photos on their Aerin and Jane Lauder, Gigi will host a party for 200 at the Badrutt’s BlackBerrys. “This is quite a Mortimer, Jamee Gregory and Palace in St. Moritz Friday, and will knife,” said Geldof, eyeing the “30 Rock” star Jane Krakowski. open a pop-up store in the hotel’s lobby flatware accompanying her steak. “We happened to have a day Saturday. This being the high winter Across the table, Newton was off shooting today so it worked season for the St. Moritz crowd, the digging into her cheeseburger out,” said the comedienne, shop will be open for business for a with aplomb. The “Ugly Betty” clad in a hot pink Michael week. With the U.S. economy the way star had a 6:30 a.m. call time Kors dress for her one fashion it is, the designer thought there was the next day, as she was subbing week outing. Because she’s no time like the present to forge new for Kelly Ripa on “Live with Regis been working so hard, she territories. “People in resort areas tend and Kelly.” hadn’t been able to preview to be more of the luxury crowd shall we “I’m interviewing Barbara

the collection, but she did say,” Basso said. Once the weekend’s Walters,” she fretted. As Aoki FERRETTI AMY SUSSMAN/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES FOR ALBERTA get a glimpse of the clothing festivities are done, he may squeeze in a lingered over dessert with Ferretti, Devon Aoki backstage before heading to day on the slopes. “I’m a better designer Peet said her round of good-byes her front-row seat. “It was than a skier,” he said. before heading home. “I’m too old to be out this late,” she smiled. mainly nude models back there, so I was like ‘Let’s move FINE DINING: Alberta Ferretti went MAKE THAT THREE: This week, Donna Karan didn’t just have her it along,’” said Krakowski. “It the intimate route Tuesday night to usual two presentations for Collection and DKNY labels. On was slightly awkward — I think celebrate her fall Philosophy di Alberta Wednesday, she also managed to find time to host an event at her more for me than for them. Ferretti collection. After a presentation Urban Zen store, to present her concept with a presentation titled They don’t care.” at Eyebeam, where Poppy Delevigne, “Philanthropy and Commerce: A New Paradigm of Retail.” The Tatiana Santo Domingo and Shenae afternoon at the Stephen Weiss Gallery offered a calm within the OSCAR TALK: Oscar nominee Joy Bryant and Grimes of “90210” sipped Champagne chaos of fashion week — to borrow some of Karan’s own words — Mickey Rourke and Oscar Jane Krakowski and mingled, a small group headed and editors got to see the newest Urban Zen offerings for spring —

winner Forest Whitaker sat STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY over to the Waverly Inn for a wine- “in season,” Karan said, pointing to one of her pet peeves in fashion side by side at Domenico Vacca on Tuesday. Whitaker raved about Rourke, having worked with him on a 1989 film called “Johnny Handsome.” “It was the first time I worked with someone I could communicate with so strongly, with just thoughts. I’m really happy people are recognizing how great he is,” said Whitaker. He had this advice for Rourke about Oscar night: “It’s different for everyone. You never know what will happen. Just try to

eye on BeaUty

Mickey Rourke and Forest Whitaker PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY enjoy the experience.” Whitaker wore Domenico Vacca when he claimed his Oscar. Rourke’s stylist advised him eye on travel Put down the Blackberry. Pick up the wine glass. not to say what he would wear, but his presence at the show — his first one in 12 years, he said, and five days before the awards — may be a sign. He said Vacca was a friend, and that he would leave for Los Angeles today. “I’m starting to feel the pressure,” he said.

THAT’S THE SPIRIT: Alexander McQueen isn’t the only designer who loves the Duke Spirit’s Liela Moss — Phillip Lim does too. Clad in head-to-toe Lim design, WWDeyeSCOOP the platinum blond singer was seated front row at Lim’s Wednesday show. “Phillip is a fan of eye on relaXatIon the band,” said Moss, who recently worked on the McQ Alexander Advertise in the all-new WWD EyeScoop and get in McQueen for Target Designer Collaboration front of the industry’s power players — influential, affluent collection. “He wanted us to play at the show but we couldn’t because consumers — as they plan their weekend. of various contract things with McQueen.” Instead, former model Lissie Trullie rocked out for the crowd, which Coming this spring included Lim fans eye on SHoPPInG Lucy Liu, Becky Newton and Kanye West. She did get to preview the Sixties-style collection, however. “It’s majestic,” she said. “He has a noble quality.” As for Moss designing her own Want to be a part of the action? clothing line, she said, Contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher at 212 630-4737, or your WWD representative. “I’d have to work with a Liela Moss strong mentor, but yeah,

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY why not?”

3423_WWD_WeekendScoop_HAD_JR_021909.indd 1-2 2/11/09 11:02:48 AM WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 19 WWD.COM

— and hear her make her humanitarian though, was the musical performance recipes to be a part of an upcoming Council of Fashion case. “This is a place where the like-minded Marc that’s become quite a tradition at the Designers of America cookbook, scheduled to be released in can come together, those who want to make Jacobs Costume Institute benefit. How about September as the fourth book published by Assouline to benefit a difference in the world,” she said. at the tapping George Michael to belt out the CFDA. Martha Stewart is writing the forward, and Lisa Marsh “My dream, my passion is to see Urban Victorinox “Freedom ’90” that night? is the book’s author, giving context to the designers’ choices Zen centers in every city,” she added. 1909 “to bring these recipes to life for the reader,” Marsh said. show. MODEST MARC: Marc Jacobs and For example, Marsh highlights that Zac Posen’s butterscotch MODEL MUSINGS: Marc Jacobs and Harold Duckie Brown’s Daniel Silver and cookie recipe was passed through his family for years, and Koda stood against the backdrop of the Steven Cox all came to Pierre-Henri that Carolina Herrera started eating pommes toupinel when iconic 1990 British Vogue cover by Peter Mattout’s first Victorinox 1909 show. she met her husband’s family. The designers’ choices range Lindbergh featuring Linda Evangelista, Jacobs, (toting an aubergine Hermès from comfort food (Cynthia Rowley turned in a recipe for mac Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Tatiana Birkin,) said he and Mattout ran with & cheese, albeit with truffles) to cuisines reflecting their Patitz and Cindy Crawford, on Wednesday the same crowd in Paris. WWD noted ethnic roots (Yigal Azrouël selected chicken tagine) to plain morning to disclose details of the Costume a trend toward more timely show old overachieving (Francisco Costa turned in an entire menu, Institute’s upcoming spring exhibit “The starts this season, perhaps due to his though only one recipe could be included). The designers also Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion.” The example. “I never start trends. I just sketched illustrations of their food, creating a “hybrid artbook- exhibit will span from Dior’s New Look to do what I think is right,” said Jacobs. cookbook,” said CFDA executive director Steven Kolb. He said the late Nineties, and Koda and co-curator the idea came from a one-of-a-kind clipbook of recipes donated Kohle Yohannan based selections mainly FINISH LINE: There may have been by designers that CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg had on editorial models arranged by decade, fewer parties than usual this fashion bought at the original Seventh On Sale. from Dovima and Veruschka to Patti week, but the New York season is Hansen and Lisa Taylor, and the women coming to an end with a welcome LINCOLN MEMORIAL: To commemorate the 200th anniversary best known as supermodels today. Koda addition. L’Wren Scott and Mick Jagger of Abraham Lincoln’s birth, Brooks Brothers has installed a recalled one of his first conversations with are said to be planning a party to fete display on the fifth floor of its Madison Avenue flagship. The Jacobs, recalling how Kate Moss walked Scott’s fall collection and the end of centerpiece is a replica of the embroidered Great Coat, which in his seminal grunge collection for Perry fashion week. A spokesman for Scott Brooks made for his second inauguration, as well as a special Ellis. “Kate is a muse to many designers,” confirmed the plans for the party, but mirror that it used to fit the 6-foot, 4-inch Lincoln when Jacobs said, citing Yves Saint Laurent’s declined to disclose more details. he visited the company’s Broadway and Grand Street store. famous quote “A good model can advance The store is also displaying a series of letters from the 16th fashion by 10 years.” CFDA COOKBOOK: More than 100 president that mention the coat.

One thing that wasn’t discussed, THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY designers volunteered their favorite POOL SHOT: It may not be the best time for retail ventures, but Hermès expects to make a splash with a future opening planned for Paris. Though it’s too early to disclose details, a brand spokeswoman confirmed the house will open a store in La Piscine, a shopping mall based in the disused former swimming pool of the Lutetia hotel on Rue de Sèvres. “It won’t be for this year,” she said.

FASHION RECALL: Stan Herman, designer and former president of the CFDA, has probably heard the photographer’s battle cry, “Uncross Your Legs,” more times that he cares to remember. Nevertheless, that’s the provocative title he chose for his memoirs reflecting eye on BeaUty his 50 years in the fashion business. Herman, whose design career has spanned ready-to-wear, loungewear, uniforms and a lucrative gig on QVC, spent four years writing the book (in long-hand, with sketches). He’s currently doing rewrites and talking to publishers. The book deals with his relationships with such designers as Geoffrey Beene, Pauline Trigere and Norman Norell, as well the “youngsters today who have become my children,” as well as his 16 years heading the CFDA. “It’s been a very diversified career, and I’m still here. I’m a survivor,” he said.

UPSIDE OF A DOWNTURN: Carmen Marc Valvo’s decision to pull up stakes at Bryant Park turned out to be media boon. “To be perfectly honest, I’ve gotten more publicity eye on travel Put down the Blackberry. Pick up the wine glass. for not doing a show than I ever did for having a show,” he said, during his presentation Wednesday at Citrine.

CYNTHIA ROWLEY EMBRACES TECHNOLOGY: Cynthia Rowley went high-tech this fashion week with two projects. The designer teamed up with Nintendo to create a limited edition carrying case for the portable Nintendo DS, which she featured in her Monday runway show. Created to match the shoes in her fall collection, the small clutchlike bags come in three metallic leather colors — blue, WWDeyeSCOOP peachy gold and cranberry pink — and 500 of them will be available later this spring through Club Nintendo and club.nintendo.com for 600 points, which players can earn on the Web site. “We designed this chic little clutch eye on relaXatIon expressly for the DS that will also hold your money, keys, lipstick….” Rowley said. “What else do you need, really?” Maybe a short film running in 5,500 New York taxis Advertise in the all-new WWD EyeScoop and get in during fashion week. The film, featuring models wearing looks from Rowley’s fall collection playing musical chairs, front of the industry’s power players — influential, affluent has an expected viewership of 1,176,000, according to the company, which declined to disclose the cost of the project. “We’ve been getting positive feedback via e-mails consumers — as they plan their weekend. and texts sent from the backs of cabs,” said Peter Arnold, president of Cynthia Rowley.

BROTHERLY LOVE: Richard Chai and Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainwright were in the house when Coming this spring Phillip Lim showed his collection. Asked if he was there eye on SHoPPInG to lend some moral support, Chai said, “Absolutely. We’ve been best friends for years.”

HOT TYPE: A Jean Paul Gaultier biography is in the works by French journalist Elisabeth Gouslan. “Gaultier is a fundamental personality in fashion,” said Gouslan, who writes for Madame Figaro magazine. Gouslan said she plans to interview luminaries from cinema and fashion Want to be a part of the action? for her book. So far, Jean Charles de Castelbajac, Pierre Contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher at 212 630-4737, or your WWD representative. Cardin and Martin Margiela have been approached, along with actresses Juliette Binoche and Isabelle Adjani. The yet-untitled tome, to be published by Grasset, is slated for release this fall.

3423_WWD_WeekendScoop_HAD_JR_021909.indd 1-2 2/11/09 11:02:48 AM 20 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 WWD.COM Overseas Sales Lift Premium Players Replay Moves Into South Korea By Ross Tucker By Emili Vesilind True Religion ITALIAN PREMIUM DENIM BRAND JOE’S JEANS IS LOWERING ITS ENTRY wants to open Replay is setting its sights on South price point for women’s denim by $7 for 20-plus stores Korea. spring 2009 to drive business, and the com- a year through The label has reached an agreement pany, along with competitor True Religion, 2010. with SK Networks, a Seoul-based global is looking to expand internationally to help marketing company with more than $17 blunt the impact of the recession. billion in sales, to bring Replay to South In presentations Tuesday at the Roth 21st Korean customers. Annual O.C. Growth Stock Conference at the The four-year deal begins with the Ritz-Carlton in Dana Point, Calif., executives spring season and includes plans to from both Los Angeles-based premium denim open seven locations within major de- fi rms discussed strategies for the year. partment stores and a fl agship in the Although some shoppers are still shell- next year. By the end of the four-year Gigi Vezzola ing out $200 for a pair of jeans — both period, it is hoped that the brand will companies reported revenue growth for be sold at 20 locations in the country 2008, though annual earnings statements and generate revenue of 100 billion won, or about $68.7 million at cur- have yet to be released — executives ac- rent exchange. knowledged a softening in the women’s “Even now, with this testing economic climate, we are confi - denim business. dent that Replay will be a great success in [South] Korea because Expansion and retail penetration inter- the brand and its philosophy fi t well with the [South] Korean nationally is a priority for Joe’s Jeans. The consumers,” said Gaetano Sallorenzo, chief executive offi cer of company recently opened a corporate offi ce Replay parent company Fashion Box. “We have been very im- and a freestanding store in Paris. “Hopefully, pressed by SK Networks and its team and we are sure that we the international and men’s businesses will will have a great future together.” see some growth and will mitigate any losses Replay will face stiff economic headwinds in its attempt to on the women’s side,” said Marc gain a toehold in the country. During his inauguration speech last Crossman, president and chief week, South Korea’s new fi nance minister, Yoon Jeung-hyun, said executive offi cer. the government anticipates the country’s economy will contract “We think there’s that level by 2 percent this year. It was a reversal from the government’s of customer who is turning previous predictions of 3 percent growth. away from premium denim,” SK Networks has a proven track record in South Korea. The Crossman said. The company company introduced brands such as Tommy Hilfi ger and DKNY is moving more of its manu- to the region. In April 2008, SK signed a similar agreement with facturing abroad to justify the Elie Tahari. entry price point reduction to many attendees: “How in the In a separate development, Replay has tapped Gigi Vezzola as $138 from $145. world, in this economy, can its new creative director. Both companies cited a spike people spend that kind of Vezzola will be in charge of the denim and sportswear brand, in the men’s denim business and money on jeans?” Answering the more experimental line We Are Replay and children’s wear an increase in overseas revenue his own query, he said, “Well, line Replay & Sons. He will also supervise the brands, including channels as key factors balancing Marc premium denim is a category their licenses, and will be in charge of their global image. tepid sales on the women’s side. Crossman that’s bucking trends.” A former creative director at Samsonite, Vezzola has been con- Crossman described the per- The denim lifestyle brand, sulting for Pirelli’s PZero line and Costume National. He also served formance of the men’s business known for its thick stitching stints with Krizia and Dolce & Gabbana. as “fantastic.” The division, which launched in and fl ap-pocket design, reported $265 million in net Vezzola said he considers Replay “one of the most important 2006, grew 40 percent in 2008, while net sales were sales for fi scal 2008, up from $173 million in 2007. brands on the international scene, at a historical time when fl at in the women’s category. In 2009, the company is looking to grow its inter- denim is an integral part of everybody’s wardrobe.” Vezzola re- Despite the economy and the closing of 6 percent national business — at retail and wholesale — fi rst places Sergio Arreghini, who died last year. of its retail base in 2008 because of the recession, the in Japan, where it established a subsidiary last year, — With contributions from Luisa Zargani company reported a 10 percent increase in total rev- then beyond. “We’ll be looking to replicate what we enue for the fi scal year and a 16 percent increase in do in Japan elsewhere,” Collins said, adding that the net sales in the fi scal third quarter, to $18.2 million company will open one or two stores in that country Growth of “cotton- from $15.7 million in the same period in 2007. this year, though leases have yet to be signed. “We dominant bottoms” Joe’s Jeans, which produces sleek, embellish- see the international market [eventually] outgrowing imports from Bangladesh, ment-free denim, recently branched out into life- the U.S. market.” style categories and retail, opening stores in San In the U.S. and abroad, True Religion hopes to which overtook China as Francisco and Chicago. open a total of 20-plus stores annually through 2010. the largest supplier in the Peter Collins, chief fi nancial offi cer of True “We really see ourselves positioned as a global aspi- category in 2008. Religion, voiced a question that preoccupied rational brand,” he said. SOURCE:25 COTTON INC. .6% WWDTREND Loomstate Plaid Plaid World Be it a hearty buffalo or a clan-worthy tartan, this fall designers continue to be mad for plaid. — Kim Friday

Carlos by Carlos Santana

For more on the Ben trend, see WWD.com. Sherman

April 77 Adia Kibur MITRA ROBERT 55DSL BY PHOTOS WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 21 WWD.COM The Beat Reengaging the Contemporary Shopper By Julee Kaplan and Ellen Groves

GIVEN THE DISMAL STATE OF RETAILING, CONTEMPORARY DESIGN- Fall looks from Caroline Hedaya... ers worldwide are adopting new game plans, from launching secondary lines to expanding into new geographical markets. “Consumers across the board are looking at cutting back and when it comes to apparel and dining out, those are a big part of those cut- backs,” said Pam Goodfellow, senior analyst at the Columbus, Ohio-based BIGresearch. “In order to get people into the stores, it’s going to take new ideas and great prices. If consumers are going to feel like they are buying a designer item at a good price, if they feel like they are getting a deal, this is good for anyone and everyone.” With that said, Abbey Samet, a contemporary and young designer con- sultant, said designers should be careful about focusing on lowering pric- es and pay close attention to offering value. “It does seem like stores are rushing to lower their prices, but I am a fi rm believer that a lot of customers who used to shop on the designer fl oors are looking to contemporary now for those edgier brands like Rag & Bone or Elizabeth and James,” Samet said. “Those are higher-priced lines on the contemporary fl oor, but customers still seek them out in this economy.” She also said retailers like J. Crew are already catering to the contem- porary customer so designers in the category should be focusing on what makes their lines stand out from the rest. “It’s true that customers are looking more closely at price, but they are also looking to spend their money on a well-made garment that makes them feel special when they wear it,” she said. “Also, designers need to realize, once you lower those prices, you can’t really go back up — at least not successfully.” For Tony Cohen, launching a secondary line called 2LOVE Tony Cohen for fall seemed like a natural thing to do as his main collection leaned toward more evening appropriate attire. The fact that it turned out to be a lower price range than his main line was a big bonus. The new line whole- sales from $93 to $135, where the main collection offers items wholesaling between $200 and $450. “The main line has evolved into more eveningwear and less of the day- wear that stores were asking us to do,” Cohen said. “With the economy in the state it is in, it seemed like perfect timing to launch a collection that people can get more wear out of.” But, he said, launching a lower-priced collection wasn’t the easiest task when he wasn’t willing to give up the quality fabrics and intricate details he has been using in the main line for the last 12 years. “We have been cutting very economically, which has helped,” he said. “And I was also careful with my fabric choices. By using viscose twill mixed with silk, for example, it’s half the price of using pure silk alone. ...J/J by Julie Haus... The main thing for us has been to not lose those special features.” The result is a collection of cotton T-shirts trimmed with silk details and vahs — girls still need things to cotton silk printed day dresses with pleating and tucking details for which wear to these events.” Cohen has become popular. There are cropped leather jackets to be paired To serve those customers, with cotton jersey skirts and knit tops. “I see this line as picture perfect for Hedaya will launch a capsule collec- the American market right now,” said the Dutch designer. “With every- tion of fi ve dresses at a still approach- thing changing right now at retail, this line opens up so many more able price point — there’s a baby pink opportunities for us — 2LOVE can sit on a contemporary fl oor while silk organza and taffeta dress; black- the main line could easily sit in a designer store. Consumers are not and-white silk wool, velvet and tulle spending $2,000 for a dress anymore. A dress at that price will never gown; silk fl ower-printed peplum dress fl y out of a store, I don’t care what market it is.” and the “perfect little black dress” made Julie Haus said she knows exactly what Cohen is aiming for. of cotton satin and organza. The collection The contemporary designer decided to forgo a runway show during wholesales from $245 to $400. New York Fashion Week this season in order to put the funds toward Meantime, French contemporary brands launching a lower-priced line she calls J/J by Julie Haus. are seeking to reduce their dependency on “Customers of the Julie Haus line have been asking us for special Europe and are expanding into new markets. basics,” Haus said. “They want to see their favorite silk dress made Some contemporary brands are following lux- in a cozy, easier to wear fabric, so that’s what we did.” ury’s trail to China, using Hong Kong as their Her new line, launching for fall, includes an array of “special, but launchpad. Others still see the U.S. market as affordable basics,” such as with the double-faced rayon jersey dress- an opportunity to expand their businesses. For es with zipper accents and laser-cut hems, feather-weight rayon example, Comptoir des Cotonniers opened a New dresses, silk cotton one-shoulder tops to be paired with a ruffl ed York fl agship in the fall, and Zadig & Voltaire plans nylon and polyester skirt or a stretch corduroy legging. Haus said PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONEto open a Manhattan boutique next month. she wasn’t looking to sacrifi ce quality, but was careful to offer a lot “From the mass-market to the top designers, ev- of value in each piece. The line wholesales between $22 and $82, erybody’s moving,” said Marianne Romestain, chief

▲ ...and 2LOVE Tony Cohen. compared with $80 to $400 in the main collection. operating offi cer of Comptoir des Cotonniers. “The “The whole idea is to be able to offer a dress that retails designers have traded down with their diffusion lines under $200, something that the customer doesn’t have to think like Athé by Vanessa Bruno and Etoile by Isabelle Marant. On the other hand, twice about buying,” she said. entry-price level retailers like H&M has started up COS, Gap is upgrading, and Sourcing and manufacturing are done in Asia, making it easier for Kookai is trading up. We need to look at everybody.” the brand to offer the lower price point. While French contemporary labels fi rst expanded to countries bordering “It just seemed wiser for us to invest the money into the launch of France, a new generation of contemporary chains are choosing to bypass Europe a line like this,” said Jason Alkire, Haus’ husband and president of the and try their luck in newer markets. Fashion Bel Air, Madame à Paris and Manoush Julie Haus brand. “We will do shows again in the future, but it just didn’t are all opening stores in the Middle East or Asia before tackling Europe. seem right to do one this time around.” “Our franchisees can open stores very quickly in these very dynamic markets,” said As for contemporary designer Caroline Hedaya, who has been selling her Julien Kouhana, chief executive offi cer of vintage-inspired label Manoush, which sells line to stores like Henri Bendel and Shopbop.com for the past fi ve years, she jersey shirts at 95 euros, or $150, and fur coats for 690 euros, or $1,090. After opening chose to launch a capsule collection for fall based not around lowering price three boutiques in Korea last year, the label opened its fi rst stores in Romania and in points, but rather offering something a little dressier for special occasions. Kuwait this year, while openings in Dubai, Qatar, China and Japan are in discussion. “Even though the economy is bad, people are still buying for occa- Zadig & Voltaire’s chief executive offi cer, Thierry Gillier, which put its U.S. sions,” Hedaya said. “There are engagement parties, weddings, bar mitz- plans on hold after opening its Los Angeles store in 2005 due to the dollar’s decline and soaring rents, said that the upside of the retail market’s downturn is that spaces have become available. The brand will hit the U.S. again when it opens its fi rst New THE PERCENTAGE York boutique in October in the Meatpacking District. Gillier said he’s confi dent OF FEMALES AGES there’s room for Zadig in such a mature retail environment. 18 AND UP WHO “The American market needs novelty,” he declared. “All the malls follow the same USUALLY BUY format. American consumers are a bit jaded.” The contemporary market offers potential, agreed Ludivine Gregoire, owner of CLOTHING WHEN Ludivine, a New York boutique specializing in contemporary names. IT’S ON SALE. “Between Hermès and the Gap, there’s Calypso and Intermix,” she said. “When you go to the Hamptons, you don’t want to have the same dress as everybody else. You 6SOURCE: BIGRESEARCH’S 4.1 CONSUMER %INTENTIONS & ACTIONS STUDY, FEBRUARY 2009 want Vanessa Bruno or Les Prairies de Paris.” 22 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009

As Hollywood prepares for the 81st annual Academy Awards on Sunday, E-Poll Market Research has ranked the nominees by scores based on their appeal. Gerry Philpott, president and chief executive of the firm, said the TheWwDList scores are higher compared with last year, especially for the actresses. “This could bode well for ratings,” he said. “Viewers want to see how these people look, and who will win. These are primarily well-known actresses, compared to the top five last year.” Overall observations for the Oscars this year? “There is always interest in someone glamorous,” he noted. “People are not going to give this up, no matter how down things are. But I do The Chosen Ones believe there will be less bling on the red carpet. Dresses and accessories Best actress and actor Oscar nominees ranked by their appeal. will be understated…actors will be showing some restraint.” — Cecily Hall actress in a leading role ANNE HATHAWAY Percentage of respondents who agree this person is appealing as an actress: 70 percent “Anne Hathaway has gotten some serious press this past year,” said Philpott of E-Poll. “With the exception of her ex-boyfriend [Raffaello Follieri, who is serving a federal prison term for duping investors], it’s all been related to her film roles.” Hathaway has selected versatile, challenging roles, such as Agent 99 in “Get Smart” and the rehab-tortured sister in “Rachel Getting Married,” which earned her the Oscar nod. Because of roles in 1 “The Devil Wears Prada” and “The Princess Diaries,” Hathaway appeals to a wide age group. “She really grasps that younger crowd, more so than other nominated actresses,” Philpott said. At the Golden Globes, Hathaway wore a royal blue silk gown from Giorgio Armani Privé (seen left).

MERYL STREEP 66 percent Streep is one of the most honored actresses of any generation. She “has had an amazing, dynamic career — she can pretty much play any role she wants,” Philpott said. “On top of all this, she’s got a great reputation.” Streep gets high marks for her versatility, too. In the past year, she went from playing a singing, dancing bed-and-breakfast owner in a film version of the musical “Mamma Mia” to an unforgiving nun in the drama 2 “Doubt.” In accepting the Screen Actors Guild Award for outstanding female actor in a leading role for the latter role, Streep admitted that she hadn’t even purchased a dress for the event. Instead, she chose a loose-fitting black pantsuit. Streep has received 15 Oscar nominations and won twice: best actress for “Sophie’s Choice” in 1982 and best supporting actress for “Kramer vs. Kramer” in 1979. KATE WINSLET 65 percent “The bottom line for Kate Winslet: She’s just incredibly popular right now,” Philpott said. Indeed. She has picked up awards this season for her work in “Revolutionary Road” and “The Reader.” In the latter (the controversial role for which she is Oscar-nominated), Winslet plays an illiterate Holocaust war criminal who has an affair with a teenage boy half her age. Winslet first gained attention appearing alongside Emma Thompson 3 in “Sense and Sensibility” (1995), and her breakout role was Leonardo DiCaprio’s love interest in the blockbuster “Titanic” (1997). She has since chosen challenging roles in films such as “Iris” (2001), “Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind” (2004) and “Little Children” (2006). The red-carpet favorite wore a blue Narciso Rodriguez gown (left) to the SAG Awards last month. MELISSA LEO 62 percent er Nominated for her work in the low-budget film “Frozen River,” Leo portrays a destitute mother of two sons who turns to smuggling illegal n ch immigrants into the U.S. from Canada. Leo has been initiated into the whirlwind of red-carpet events, hiring stylist Cristina Ehrlich and telling Ei

WWD at the SAG Awards, “I’ll let you know how it is in a couple of weeks, when I catch my breath.” WWD noted at the time, “While Leo has teve S been an unknown fashion entity, she scored high marks for the custom emerald green taffeta gown from Simin Couture that she wore to the SAG by 4 Awards.” Leo currently has a string of films in post-production. OTHERS ANGELINA JOLIE 53 percent ALL es; g

This mother of six — and Brad Pitt’s companion — is one of the world’s highest-profile women. In addition to her film stardom and publicized a m I

personal life, she is involved in her goodwill work with various charities and the United Nations. “Not everyone loves her as an actress,” Philpott y said. “And her choices over the past few years haven’t been great, with the exception of her role in ‘The Changeling.’ ” In this tear-jerking drama, Jolie stars as a mother whose son is abducted in 1928 — she conveys the grief, the shock of losing a child and trying to find him. This is Jolie’s FP/Gett A

5 second Oscar nomination; she earned the best supporting actress award for her role as Lisa in “Girl, Interrupted” (1999). For the British Academy Y/ of Film and Television Arts Awards this month, Jolie chose a black silk Giorgio Armani Privé dress with yellow edging (left). CURR N HAU actor in a leading role by tt i

BRAD PITT P Percentage of respondents who agree this person is appealing as an actor: 60 percent nd e a In “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button,” Pitt plays a man who ages backwards. As for his appeal to movie fans, “Pitt is competing in a field” i where some of the actors aren’t as well-known, Philpott said. “His reputation in Hollywood is pretty clean, too. Angelina received the brunt of Jol

negative news with respect to his breakup with Jennifer Aniston.” Philpott said if Pitt were up against some of last year’s nominees, such as ella; d

1 ar George Clooney and Johnny Depp, “he would have ranked lower.” For the BAFTAs, Pitt appeared with Jolie on the red carpet wearing Tom Ford S (left). He has two films in post-production: “Inglourious Basterds” and “The Tree of Life,” which also stars number-three-ranked Sean Penn. ato n Do

FRANK LANGELLA by 51 percent ourke R

There’s something about Richard Nixon that entices the Academy. Both Sir Anthony Hopkins and Langella have now received Oscar nominations

for portraying the 37th president. Acclaimed for his stage appearances, movie audiences may remember Langella as Bob Alexander in “Dave” nd

(1993) and as Count Dracula in “Dracula” (1979). Although he’s not famous relative to Pitt or Penn, “Langella is really well-liked in Hollywood,” eo a L 2 Philpott said. “He actually may have improved Nixon’s overall image. He’s very charming and doesn’t have a huge body of work, but he stands out in public when he does perform.” Langella won a Tony Award for the same role in the stage version of “Frost/Nixon” in 2007. slet, Win es;

SEAN PENN g a m

44 percent I This five-time Oscar-nominated actor has come a long way since his days as Jeff Spicoli in “Fast Times at Ridgemont High” (1982). Penn, who won y

a best actor Oscar in 2004 for “Mystic River,” has been nominated this year for his portrayal of Harvey Milk, a gay rights activist and politician in /Gett by t San Francisco who was assassinated in 1978. He picked up a SAG Award for the role. While Penn is certainly one of Hollywood’s most gifted actors, i h W he is also one of the more outspoken ones, as well: The actor took a three-day trip to Baghdad in December of 2002, and he completed a series of Tim 3 columns for the San Francisco Chronicle during a trip to Iran in 2005. He has been praised by Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez for his critical by

stance against the war in Iraq. p tree RICHARD JENKINS S es;

38 percent g a

This is Jenkins’ first Oscar nomination. In the indie film “The Visitor,” he plays a lonely, washed-up college professor whose life changes the instant m I he discovers two illegal immigrants occupying his New York apartment. “It’s great to see the Academy recognize performances from actors who y

aren’t always in the spotlight,” Philpott said. “For him to be singled out is huge.” Jenkins played dead patriarch Nathaniel Fisher in HBO’s “Six /Gett n

Feet Under.” Last year, he appeared with George Clooney and Pitt in the Coen brothers film “Burn After Reading.” so 4 i arr H MICKEY ROURKE

30 percent Frazer

“Everyone loves a comeback story, and Mickey Rourke is that story this year,” Philpott said. “Similar to someone like John Travolta, he’s got this by second break in his career now. He’s the classic story of an actor who was down-and-out and was resurrected” with his role in “The Wrestler.” hoto p

Philpott predicted that Rourke’s appeal score will rise after the Academy Awards. Rourke already has taken home a Golden Globe for his y 5 performance. In his acceptance speech, Rourke said that it had been a “very long road back,” and that several years ago, he was almost “out of the business” before a new agent began working to revitalize his career. athawa H source: E-Poll Market Research, A CELEBRITY RESEARCH FIRM BASED IN ENCINO, CALIF. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 23 WWD.COM Oscars Evolve With Economy Continued from page one bringing select pieces for one-on-one stylist ap- pointments. Harry Winston and Chopard, which have stores on Rodeo Drive, are simply working out of their boutiques. Even at Dior Beauty, where Oscar week mar- keting has been a significant piece of the events budget, cuts have been made. The Chateau Marmont dinner was identical to last year’s, but the company will eliminate its presence at the Independent Spirit Awards talent lounge, the day before the Oscars, for the first time in five years. It also trimmed the staff that comes to Los Angeles. “Having a presence in L.A. during Oscar week remains important for our brand image, but just like with everything else, we need to adapt and adjust,” said Dianne Vavra, Dior Beauty spokeswoman. In terms of what to expect on the red carpet, a general consensus is forming that the emphasis es on glamour will be about the same as ever. g ma “It’s still the Oscars,” said Elizabeth Stewart, I a Hollywood stylist who works with Calista Flockhart and Kristin Davis. “It may be a little more toned down, but the few awards shows so ostini/Getty

far have generally been business as usual.” Ag Jennifer Lopez said the question of what van E looks appropriate is slightly ridiculous because nothing people wear to events is anything more by air than public relations for the designers. f “I don’t think there’s anything wrong with

playing dress up right now,” she said. “Who a; vanity wouldn’t want to wear borrowed dresses and ll

borrowed jewelry? And anyway, I think you can arde get criticized if you’re wearing borrowed dresses S now because it’s borrowed, and I think you can onato get criticized for it if it’s not because you bought D

Workers roll out by it during the current economy. So I say do what Workers roll out the red carpet. makes you happy and wear what you want be- dior es;

cause the only thing that really matters is if your g ma mother calls you up the next day and says, ‘What The Vanity Fair Dior Beauty’s Chateau I were you wearing?’” 2007 Oscars Marmont event.

Almost every major fashion house (Oscar, party. /Getty P F A

Donna, Ralph, Chanel, Gucci, Versace, Dior, / YS

Armani among them) is cooking up a gown in U BO hopes that a stylist and her celebrity client will L choose it. There are many approaches to the game. Some houses, such as Armani, Prada, ABRIE

Versace and Dior have staffers based in Beverly G by Hills who work year-round on VIP dressing. k oda Others, such as Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la k es;

Renta, have sent New York-based staffers to Los g ma Angeles to facilitate fittings in years past. Several I of those brands aren’t in town this year because of New York Fashion Week. Still others, including Donna Karan, Vera Wang, Caroline Herrera and Narciso Rodriguez, work with stylists and celeb- jansezian/Getty rities when they are in New York. D

“I’m the stylist who takes a dress right off the k runway and on the plane with me back to L.A.,” said Rachel Zoe. “You do what you need to do.” Kevor The calendar for the week seems to be as full as ever. It includes marquee events such as Variety’s pre-Oscar party and Vanity Fair’s The home of post-Oscar blowout. The VF event went on the Oscars. hiatus last year because of the Writers Guild strike. It had been at the now-closed Morton’s, red-carpet photo by but this year will be at the smaller Sunset ing Oscar Week] and they never will.” while swag suites still abound — there are no fewer than Tower hotel restaurant. Jimmy Choo co-founder Tamara Mellon has been 10 offering everything from diamond facials to eyelash ex- At the Chateau Marmont, the trend is to reduce quan- operating an Oscar week suite since 1999. The brand tensions — the booty has considerably dropped in value. tity, not quality. In the past, major studios have thrown is opening the suite later than usual, but Jimmy Choo “This year, as everyone’s marketing budgets are tight- 1,000-person parties, but those have been replaced by has maintained its presence not only during Oscar week ening up, I suspect the gifting will be more focused on events for 300, such as Paramount’s pre-Golden Globe but also at the Golden Globes and the British Academy A-list actresses, and still those will be small discreet party last month. And financier and socialite Nicolas of Film and Television Arts awards, as well as for the modest things,” said Sally Morrison, president of the Berggruen downsized his Oscar week gala Wednesday Cannes Film Festival in May. Mellon will again host an Diamond Information Center. “If someone fabulous night to about 600 guests from 800. Oscar lunch on Friday for 100 people. comes through the door they will get something, but it’s “Everything is smaller, said event planner Lara “The Academy Awards act as the biggest global red- much less of anyone coming through the door and leav- Shriftman, a guest at Berggruen’s party. “Everyone is carpet platform for luxury brands and has offered [us] a ing with a little bag of stuff.” budget-conscious, and when you are trying to save, you huge awareness opportunity,” she said. The center used to have a multiday suite for stylists invite fewer people, make the party shorter and don’t Nadja Swarovski who heads her family company’s and press but this year is sticking with a 50-person dinner serve dinner. People also don’t spend what they used to fashion division, is another 10-year Oscar week veteran hosted by Julianne Moore as its sole marketing event. on flowers and invitations and more people are enter- who has partnered with Jimmy Choo in past seasons to “I’m not sure if the gifting will be missed in terms of taining at home.” create custom Oscar accessories. overall marketing results,” Morrison said. “I don’t know The Oscars show, which producers hope will at least “Nonetheless…we are sensitive to the climate,” she what the return on investment is vis-à-vis a suite, but match last year’s record low viewership of 32 million, said. it’s not immediate and at a time when dollars are under generates $130 million for the local economy (plus ancil- Swarovski was the host at a cocktail party for 250 pressure it’s a relatively easy thing to give up.” lary publicity and sales that companies worldwide get people on the rooftop of the Thompson Beverly Hills Of course, it’s all relative. from Oscar-related placement). That is no small num- hotel Wednesday night, which was a more intimate Montblanc hopes to make a splash by launching a ber in a state that is in financial crisis with a $42 billion gathering — cocktails only, no dinner — than in previ- new initiative with longtime charity partner UNICEF budget deficit. ous years, when she had taken over the Ace Gallery in on Friday night at a 250-person seated dinner on the “The Academy Awards is a signature event for Los Beverly Hills for a runway fashion presentation and Paramount Studios lot . Angeles that creates jobs and has a big overall impact 500-person-plus event. “It’s an intimate private dinner with a more mod- on our economy,” said Jack Kyser, chief economist for “The Oscar season…provides an opportunity to high- est atmosphere, not a big party or show,” said Ingrid the Los Angeles Economic Development Corp. While he light how crystal remains an affordable luxury for women Rooson, the company’s director of cultural affairs. “We underscored that parties may be fewer or more low key, in spite of the economic climate,” Swarovski said. have the feeling celebrities like to sit down to dinner he stressed, “They haven’t reached the point [of shutter- But simply giving things away is not as economical, so surrounded by people they know.” 24 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 WWD.COM Pricing Wins Out at Copenhagen Fashion Week By Ellen Groves Such measures may prove critical. “If it’s [markup crazy designs, with some color. A kind of ‘casual elabo- is] only 2.5, I’m not interested any more,” said Malene rate,’” he said. COPENHAGEN — The show calendar was slimmer and at- Tholak, owner of independent boutique Apartment No. Storm lauded the trend toward a modern, functional, tendance down 10 percent, but designers at Copenhagen 7 in Copenhagen. classic look in men’s wear, which he believes will help Fashion Week reported brisk business as savvy pricing Touting its 100 percent retro-printed silk dresses stimulate the market at a time when everybody needs a and service strategies appeared to pay off. and sequin party pants as “half the price than any other reason to buy. “Men’s is becoming interesting for lots of Labels including Won Hundred, Bitte Kai Rand and brand here,” Selected Femme, owned by Denmark’s reasons; high quality, hand craftsmanship and history,” Day Birger et Mikkelsen opted out of the show sched- Bestseller group, sought to eliminate the risks retailers he said. “That’s not really happening in women’s, which ule, investing the estimated 1 million Danish kroner, or run. “They can buy one box of, say, six leather jackets and is still based on how sexy I can look if I buy that dress.” $170,000, elsewhere. Forgoing the runway hoopla for the then reorder through our 24-hour service supply,” said Pointing to Japanese labels, which have been mak- first time in 10 years, Day instead hosted an intimate soi- Tine Steno, sales manager for Europe. Stores can thus ing functional, old classic brands better and modern for ree for key accounts. The 37 designers who did show ear- test which styles sell before committing to larger orders. years, Storm said the movement is slowly hitting Europe. lier this month were down from 40 in February last year The service, introduced six months ago, has boosted Swedish brand Our Legacy, which showed at Gallery, is and kept costs down by mostly using one of three spon- sales some 30 percent, according to Steno. an example. Founded by Cristopher Nying and Jockum sored venues. Luxury players are likewise dreaming up credit- Hallin with the aim of redefining the classic men’s ward- Traffic to CPH Vision, which unveiled its new denim crunch alternatives. At Annhagen, a black, three-quar- robe, Our Legacy was a hit at the show. “It was [love at first and streetwear fair Terminal 2, fell 16 percent, while the ter-length cashmere coat was also available in wool for sight],” said Jean-Marc Ghys, owner of the 4,000-square- more mainstream Copenhagen International Fashion half the price, a subtle measure that didn’t detract from foot Brussels unisex fashion store Prive Joke. Fair declined 9 percent. Only Gallery, the designer-fo- the brand’s high-end positioning. “In the collection, Storm also lauded Henrik Vibskov’s “very artistic, cused fair, reported an increase, of 5 percent. you couldn’t see any financial crisis whatsoever,” said very creative, crazy fashion collection,” and in women’s Industry players here are gearing up for what some Natalia Sigvardt, commercial manager for Copenhagen wear, Stine Goya for managing to create her own look. anticipate will be a moment of truth, after golden years department store Illum. “It’s very luxurious and the Business-wise, not everybody tightened their belts. when budding designers could start their own brand knitwear was beautiful.” “We’ve picked up 15 new clients in Denmark alone after working just six months at a fashion house and when just about anyone with an eye for fashion could open a thriving multibrand store. A dress by Lace patched “There are three times as many designers now Stine Goya. denim at as there were five or six years ago,” said Henrik Cheap Monday. Fjordbak, managing director of Munthe Plus Simonsen, who expects the downturn to result in a Darwinian-like natural selection. “There will be fewer shops and fewer brands, but those who are here two years from now will be even stronger.” “What we’re seeing now may be necessary. We’re going to find out how good we are,” concurred retailer Thomas Jensen, who said he’s discontinuing small- er labels in his high-end men’s wear store, Rich, in Scandinavians are wholesalers“ with retail attitudes. We think about the seller. ­ — Dennis Bage-Madsen,” Day Birger et Mikkelsen Esbjerg, a seaside town on Denmark’s west coast. While Crown Princess Mary of Denmark made her regular visit to CPH Vision, the first appearance by Denmark’s prime minister, Anders Fogh Rasmussen ­— together with the Danish Fashion Institute’s full- page newspaper ads urging readers to “Support Your Local Designer; Buy Danish” — underscored the pressure the country’s fourth biggest industry is feeling. Though the government has reduced income tax and unemployment remains relatively low, at 2.1 percent in December, consumption has slowed. “Most of what we’re seeing right now is more about psychology than facts,” said Eva Kruse, execu- tive director of the Danish Fashion Institute. “People have more money than they did a year ago. If they keep being reluctant to spend, saving and thinking ‘what if,’ we will never get out of this circle.” Tie-dye trim at And that cycle has already hit independent stores Wood Wood. and nascent designers. “Many small stores, provincial village stores have problems and are closing down,” said Rasmus Storm, Annhagen is also going on the public relations of- this season,” said Munthe Plus Simonsen’s Fjordbak, owner of the trendy concept store Storm. “If small stores fensive. After tapping Jorgen Simonsen, who’s worked adding that orders were up 25 percent versus last fall. have financial problems, if they owe the brands money, for Valentino, Versace and Givenchy, as chief designer “What people are doing is if they have 30 or 40 brands, they don’t show up at the fair.” last year, the label is capitalizing on his celebrity con- they are carrying fewer brands and keeping budgets in- Björn Rosander, designer of Stockholm-based organic nections, flying his friend, actress Olga Kurylenko, to stead of reducing orders on the bigger brands,” he said. denim brand Ondo, confirmed some of his customers have its front row. Playing the celebrity card at the other Likewise at Day Birger et Mikkelsen, where bestsell- failed to pay up. “It makes it very difficult,” he said. end of the spectrum, self-described “trendy but geeky” ers included simple items like a lace-trimmed, vintage- Ever savvy, Scandinavian brands are developing a streetwear label Pa:nuu hopes to see its Eighties- style cotton shirt and a cropped leather jacket, fall or- battery of anticrisis strategies to help retailers better influenced designs on musicians such as dance act Lady ders were 10 percent ahead of a year ago. weather the downturn. Gaga when she plays in Paris next month. Elsa Evangelinou of Greek retailer Bloom said she’ll “Scandinavians are wholesalers with retail atti- Brands are also seeking to cover all bases by add- actually increase her budget for stalwarts By Malene tudes. We think about the seller,” declared Dennis Bage- ing categories to develop a lifestyle positioning. As well Birger and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair. “Scandinavian Madsen, international sales manager at Day Birger et as its fine jewelry collaboration with designer Michael brands are doing very well in Greece,” she said. Mikkelsen, which tracks swift sellers in its own stores to Zobel, Acne will make a foray into furniture this year. “People have been very happy to hear our sales were present its customers with proven hits. “We’re offering a total concept, with different product up,” said Birthe Bang, owner of three Idenyt fashion “Brands are more flexible on both the markup and groups and different price levels,” said sales representa- stores, which sells designers from Sonia Rykiel to Baum with samples,” said Tobias Kuppe, a buyer for inde- tive Christian Sievers. Wood Wood, meanwhile, showed und Pferdgarten, who grew sales 6 percent last year. pendent Swedish boutique Erik & Alexander, who was its new accessories line of calfskin leather bags and belts, Bang lauded By Malene Birger, Stine Goya and Rutzou. browsing Terminal 2. while brands from Annhagen to Barbara Gongini, a label The fairs continue to provide fruitful hunting grounds Take Noblesse, a new label from Danish retailing from the Faroe Islands, will introduce shoes next season. for high street retailers such as Topshop, which, after col- group Metropole, whose first collection including floaty While struggling to name new trends, buyers noted a laborating with Pa:nuu for women’s wear, is extending its orange silk dresses, was offered with a 3.5 point markup. bigger focus on outerwear, sportswear and workwear — relationship to include men’s wear at Topman this summer. Denim-heavy label Won Hundred, meanwhile, unveiled namely what Copenhagen does best. Topshop’s new pop-up concept for young international de- its new basic line, including chinos, checked shirts and “People who go know what to expect,” said designer signers will also showcase Sweden’s Diana Orving, who simple knits, at a markup of three times to appeal to Gaspard Yurkievich, a judge in CPH Vision’s Designer’s showed screen-print silk dresses at Gallery. Elsewhere, smaller stores. “You give a little, take a little,” reasoned Nest competition for graduate designers. Won Hundred and Dutch label Humanoid are set to join the Won Hundred sales manager Rasmus Bak. “Copenhagen offers midrange, creative but not too increasingly edgy lineup at 40-store U.K. chain Whistles. WWD, thursday, february 19, 2009 25 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com.

Retail Stocks Down 0.6% 10 Best Performers By Arnold J. Karr percent, from December’s 7.2 percent level, and general economic contraction DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt Continued anxiety about the of 0.5 to 1.3 percent, followed by limited economy, tempered by news of a new growth of 2.5 to 3.3 percent in 2010. High Low Last %Change mortgage relief package and signs of “The staff again expected that un- some renewed life in stores, led stocks employment would rise substantially to a modest decline on Wednesday. through the beginning of 2010 before 4.35 3.88 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 894625 4.26 +10.08 After a lively bounce in the morn- edging down over the remainder of the ing, the S&P Retail Index finished the year,” read the notes from the meeting. 0.82 0.79 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 58195 0.82 +8.98 trading day down 1.53 points, or 0.6 However, Todd Slater, analyst at percent, at 250.01, a vast improvement Lazard Capital Markets, said he was over Tuesday’s 3.8 percent decline. hearing of “some acceleration” at retail 13.69 12.93 Fossil (FOSL) 5.4 1883060 13.61 +8.45 The major indices finished the day not in the past week, which “may have re- far from where they started it, with the sulted from pent-up demand and the tim- 3.20 2.83 Developers Diversified (DDR) 3.7 4885235 3.08 +8.07 Dow Jones Industrial Average up less ing of Valentine’s Day-President’s Day.” than 0.1 percent at 7,555.63 and the S&P He pointed out that Wal-Mart Stores 5.23 4.70 Perry Ellis (PERY) 3.4 196654 5.17 +7.71 500 and Nasdaq Composite off 0.1 and Inc. reported a “good start” to February 0.2 percent, respectively. and positive recent showings at Urban 29.29 26.71 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 40.8 1375446 28.36 +6.18 The Talbots Inc. and Coldwater Creek Outfitters Inc.’s Anthropologie division, Inc. came back from respective falls Limited Brands Inc.’s Victoria’s Secret of 27.8 and 22.9 percent Tuesday with stores and American Apparel Inc. 2.40 2.14 Talbots (TLB) - 396988 2.27 +5.58 pickups of 5.6 and 4.7 percent to close Meanwhile, in Mesa, Ariz., Obama at $2.27 and $2.23. However, another revealed a plan to extend help to up to 4.01 3.85 Delta Apparel (DLA) 6.9 8400 4.01 +5.25 hard-pressed store, large-size specialist nine million homeowners and infuse Charming Shoppes Inc., suffered the larg- the mortgage market with $75 billion. 2.18 1.95 American Apparel (APP) 6.7 121390 2.00 +4.71 est decline of all stocks tracked by WWD, The housing plan focuses on helping re- closing at 85 cents, down 13.3 percent. sponsible borrowers refinance at lower 2.28 2.10 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 513149 2.23 +4.69 Fossil Inc. and Perry Ellis mortgage rates, assisting homeowners International Inc. qualified for the best who are struggling with their payments performers’ list for the second day in a stay current and reducing the rate of row, finishing ahead 8.5 percent at $13.61 foreclosures. The plan would help four and up 7.7 percent at $5.17, respectively. million to five million homeowners 10 Worst Performers Even with President Obama’s signing of whose home values dropped through the $787 billion stimulus package into law no fault of their own to refinance. The DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt and disclosure of a new plan to stabilize infusion would aid an additional three the U.S. housing market, gloom and uncer- million to four million at-risk homeown- High Low Last %Change tainty hung over the financial sector. ers struggling because of the recession. In minutes of its two-day meet- Additionally, the plan would double the ing released Wednesday, the Federal Treasury Department’s commitment 1.01 0.85 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 213636 0.85 -13.27 Reserve’s Open Market Committee to absorb losses at Fannie Mae and painted a moribund picture of the econ- Freddie Mac, which the government omy, including a predicted rise in 2009 took over last year, to $200 billion. 1.56 1.00 Glimcher (GRT) - 691268 1.16 -11.45 unemployment to between 8.5 and 8.8 — With contributions from Liza Casabona 11.80 10.50 macerich (MAC) 7.1 3293102 10.79 -10.53

2.41 2.25 Hampshire (HAMP) - 8300 2.29 -8.40

Dress Barn Sees $1.1M Loss in Qtr. 3.08 2.73 Revlon (REV) 2.2 233886 2.73 -8.39 By Alexandra Steigrad Nonetheless, the retailer said comps for February and January were up in 1.38 1.24 Zale (ZLC) - 506786 1.26 -7.35 Dress Barn Inc. missed Wall the low-single digits. Street’s second-quarter earnings pro- Dress Barn president and chief ex- jections and fell to a loss as the women’s ecutive officer David Jaffe said during 0.29 0.29 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 4993 0.29 -6.45 apparel retailer said heavily marked- the company earnings call that “busi- down merchandise during the holiday ness seems to show signs of stabilizing.” 8.06 6.05 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 12763 7.52 -6.00 season weakened its margins. He also noted the retailer is “very well For the three months ended Jan. 24, positioned for this recession. 1.35 1.16 Crocs (CROX) - 1854708 1.18 -5.60 the Suffern, N.Y.-based company on “We believe we are attracting new cus- Wednesday reported a net loss of $1.1 tomers who are searching for better value 4.69 4.25 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 67.7 119895 4.26 -5.54 million, or 2 cents a diluted share, com- as well as current fashion,” he said. pared with net income of $7.4 million, Jaffe added that Dress Barn, which or 12 cents a share, for the period a year has more than $300 million in cash and * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on earlier. Net sales shrank 0.7 percent marketable securities, will continue to the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss to $343.2 million from $345.6 million. “aggressively manage” its inventories in francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. Analysts surveyed by Yahoo Finance light of the economic environment. were looking for earnings per share of 1 Net earnings for the first half de- cent on sales of $341.5 million. creased 28.2 percent to $19.4 million, or Quarterly comparable-store sales 31 cents a share, versus profit of more Cartier Alleges QVC Copied Watches fell 4 percent, with comps at Dress Barn than $27 million, or 42 cents, a year ago. Cartier has accused QVC Inc. of Rivers conducts business through the and Maurices, dipping 6 and 4 percent, Revenue rose 1.5 percent to $719.6 mil- selling watches, at least some in its Joan JMAM company. respectively. lion from $709.3 million. Rivers-branded jewelry collection, that Cartier accuses all three companies infringe on several of the French jewel- of trade dress infringement and QVC and er’s designs. TWI Watches of design patent infringe- In a complaint filed in U.S. District ment in the complaint. The luxury brand Court in Manhattan on Friday, Cartier is seeking a permanent injunction, the S&P Cuts Rating on BCBG Max Azria alleged that the West Chester, Pa.-based destruction of any infringing goods, all Standard & Poor’s Ratings a continuation of weakness in the new home shopping giant has promoted and profits from the sale of any infringing Services on Wednesday lowered its cor- year. S&P also expressed concern over sold watches that copy its Santos and items and other, unspecified damages. porate credit rating on BCBG Max Azria the company’s ability to meet its mini- Pasha Grille trade dresses. The jeweler Neither QVC nor JMAM returned calls Group Inc., citing its “continued weak oper- mum EBITDA covenant for Max Rave, also named two of QVC’s business part- seeking comment. A number listed for ating performance in the fourth quarter.” total control of which was acquired in ners, JMAM LLC and TWI Watches LLC, TWI Watches was not in service. The rating, previously “B-minus,” 2006, but said “this does not constitute as defendants in the case. — Matthew Lynch was lowered one tick to “CCC-plus.” an immediate event of default but could Obligations in the CCC family are said to prove distracting for management.” be “vulnerable to nonpayment and…de- Calls to Vernon, Calif.-based BCBG pendent upon favorable business, finan- weren’t returned. The company is pri- IN BRIEF cial and economic conditions.” CCC is the vately held and controlled by Max Azria, • PPR TO CUT JOBS: French retail and nual costs by 50 million euros, or $63 mil- third level down from the line separating founder and chief executive officer. luxury conglomerate PPR, which reports lion at current exchange rates. PPR said investment from speculative grade debt. BCBG’s corporate credit rating was its fourth-quarter and 2008 results today, fourth-quarter sales at Conforama’s net- BCBG’s outlook remained negative. lowered to “CCC” from “B-minus” in said Wednesday it plans to trim the work- work of 241 stores fell 8.3 percent. Fnac, S&P credit analyst Jackie Oberoi June, but the company said at the time force at its Conforama and Fnac chains which sells books, music and electron- said BCBG’s poor fourth-quarter per- that the downgrade was because the end amid a deteriorating consumer environ- ics, intends to shed about 400 positions formance led to expectations of “very of its fiscal year changed to January from ment. The Conforama furniture chain, in a program to reduce costs by 35 mil- limited [earnings before interest, taxes, December. S&P restored the “B-minus” which has seen its market share and lion euros, or $44.3 million. The 145-unit depreciation and amortization] cushion rating following completion of its audit. profitability eroding, said it would re- chain highlighted a drop in demand for over BCBG’s financial covenant” and — A.J.K. duce about 800 jobs by 2010 to reduce an- technical products. 26 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 WWD.COM Optimism Holds Sway at ISPO Fair By Ellen Groves ISPO drew 60,000 visitors this year. MUNICH — When the going gets tough, the tough go camping. That’s the belief of Europe’s sporting goods in- dustry, which saw sales inch up 1.4 percent last year thanks to a great snow season, plus more people holi- daying near home. Business, including apparel and equipment, topped 37.5 billion euros, or $55.18 billion at average exchange rates, according to the European Federation of Sporting Goods Retailers, or FEDAS. While traffic at this year’s International Trade Fair for Sports Equipment and Fashion, or ISPO, declined 6 percent versus last year, impacted by snow-stranded visitors in London plus a public transport strike here, the industry’s mood is largely optimistic. Some 60,000 visitors and almost 2,000 exhibitors attended the show earlier this month. “Everybody is talking about the economic crisis and at some stage, sporting goods retailers will be affected, but we are much more affected by the weather,” Wolfgang Schnellbügel, chief executive officer of Sport 2000, de- clared during a forum chaired by the World Federation of the Sporting Goods Industry. Sales in each of the chain’s 3,500 stores jumped an average of 14.1 percent in January, Schnellbügel reported. “The outdoor industry is very recession-resilient. Many of the activities — climbing, walking, hiking or camping — are free,” said Jonathan Petty, U.K. sales manager for Patagonia. “In recessions, people become more discerning. [Outerwear] is a very considered purchase. They won’t buy rubbish,” added Sharon Campbell, buying director for 17-store U.K. outdoor and mountain sports specialist Snow & Rock. Recycled polyester skiwear at Pyua. Everybody is talking about the economic “crisis and at some stage, sporting goods retailers will be affected, but we are much more affected by the weather. — Wolfgang Schnellbügel,” Sport 2000

Retailers were cautious nonetheless.

“We need to separate the actual from the future,” advised Franz s Toni Sailer’s fashion meets function jacket. Julien, chief executive officer of Intersport, whose European sales grew between 5 and 6 percent to 9 billion euros, or $13.24 “We couldn’t sell it for love nor money,” said Snow & Rock’s Campbell of billion in 2008, boosted by strong sales of winter apparel. previous season’s hits such as Spyder’s Swarovski crystal studded designs. “Even if the season has been good, with great snowfall, ev- Instead, women’s technical brand Kjus has become the chain’s bestseller. erybody is being prudent with spending and are buying fewer “We’re seeing a lot of highly technical fabrics because it was a good year brands,” said Annie Bourgade, Intersport’s head buyer for out- for snow,” concurred Jonathan Wong, buyer for Canadian chain Mountain door and skiwear, which generates around 10 percent of the Equipment Co., where sales in the snow sports category are growing double- chain’s sales. digit versus the prior season. “We’re up legitimately. Not as in ‘flat is the new Wrestling with “the widely held perspective that all’s up.’ We’re actually up.” cool because there is snow in the hills and consumers are still Hit labels offering fashion and function included Germany’s Toni Sailer. After a spending,” Kevin Myette, head of product integrity at U.S. outdoor sales leap of 70 percent in 2008, Toni Sailer expects further increases of between 30 and retailer REI, warned that everyone will eventually suffer from the 40 percent this year, spurred by bestsellers such as down jackets in silver and plum. impact of the global slowdown on suppliers. Italian label Hell is For Heroes’ Tibetan-inspired collection was also praised. “Factories are feeling the pressure from rapidly reduced orders One technology attracting activewear brands keen to add lifestyle collections and forecasts from other parts of the planet: The textile supply was Epic, a system made for military clothing by U.S. company Nextec that chain sputters,” Myette said. “After all, it is but one world, one infuses a silicone polymer into any woven fabric to make it waterproof while supply chain and just because there remains consumer demand remaining breathable. in Germany, it doesn’t mean the value chain is healthy.” “Technical brands are going crazy; this could greatly extend their reach,” The U.K. is a case in point. The weak British pound plus said Epic’s European business manager Peter Cook, adding O’Neill has al- increased manufacturing costs in China mean retailers there ready used it to make snowboarding jeans while brands including Howies were facing price hikes of 30 percent at ISPO. “Our consum- and Rohan are introducing denim using Epic. “Technical brands often don’t ers are not going to spend 30 percent more in a recession,” want denim unless it’s technical, because otherwise they’re diluting their said Snow & Rock’s Campbell. brand image.” With the pound reaching parity against the euro, European In board sports apparel, bright colors, such as fuchsia and purple abound- resorts reliant on British visitors may face difficult times. “Chalets ed, recalling the Eighties. For its 20th anniversary, Nike’s outdoor line ACG in British resorts are going to go bust,” predicted Campbell. “I’ve showed a printed down jacket which changes color from pink to purple in the heard they’re [Brits] taking out tins of baked beans. They’re not out in cold, a throwback to the Eighties heat-sensitive T-shirts. the restaurants, and the lift passes cost a fortune.” The show was awash with down jackets, often in longer styles. “It’s the Independent stores are particularly vulnerable. Moncler inspiration,” said Céline Postigo, product manager for outdoor textiles Nike ACG’s “We will start to see it. It’s our potential customers who are losing their at Intersport. “Last year, Moncler jackets popped up at all the ski stations, so this Eighties-inspired jobs,” predicted Fabienne Genoud, owner of Olympia Sport in the resort of year everybody’s doing it.” Thermo down Zinal, Switzerland, who trimmed her budget despite “a record year.” Wool abounded, too, while fur trimmings — fake, recycled and real — popped jacket. Fellow independent Francis Decroocq, who runs two Sport’s House bou- up everywhere. And nearly every label offered helmets, following a fatal acci- tiques in the Swiss ski resort of Villars, will likewise carry fewer brands to dent in Germany. “I’m wondering if there isn’t a law about to be passed making concentrate on globally recognized names like Moncler, Bogner and Post Card. helmets obligatory,” said Ethel Chassary, trends and views designer for French ac- The silver lining is that cash-strapped Britons are instead heading to places like tivewear chain Decathlon, now called the Oxylane group. Scotland or the Lake District, helping outerwear retailers there to hold their ground Recognizing efforts to reduce the industry’s environmental impacts, ISPO handed despite the morose retail climate. out its first Eco Responsibility Awards. The U.S., meanwhile, offers a bleaker outlook. “Anyone who says their fourth-quar- Among new contenders in the green field was Pyua, which claims to be the first ter was good in the U.S. is lying,” said one retailer on condition of anonymity. complete cradle-to-cradle brand. Its 40-piece line, including classic ski jackets and Elsewhere, retailers from Russia, one of the most promising markets last season, pants, T-shirts and outdoor wear for women and men, are mostly made from recycled have disappeared. “I haven’t seen one [Russian buyer],” said Reto Scheidegger, head of polyester manufactured by the Japanese firm Teijin, which also supplies Patagonia. marketing at Zimtstern, a Swiss snowboard label with an environmental bent. “They had Pyua aims to close the recycling loop by encouraging customers to hand in the cloth- a bad winter last year and then the financial crisis. I think they’ll skip this season.” ing via bins in stores or sending them by DHL. Likely due to the economic climate and heavy snowfall, designs moved away from Another hit was Zirkeltraining, a bag collection made from recycled leather once last season’s bling toward performance, albeit at higher prices. used for sports equipment by German gym teacher Bernd Dorr. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2009 27 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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