The Inside: Pg. 18 ICAHN’S FEDERATED MOVE/3 KELLWOOD’S BUY/3 Where LoyaltyWWD Lies WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • September 28, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Here Comes the Budget Bride The biggest news in fashion this week isn’t on the Milan runways. Rather, it hails from the wonderful world of high- low, where Viktor & Rolf and H&M have gotten hitched for a short-term marriage. It’s that very idea that inspired Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who discussed details of the collaboration exclusively with WWD. The ultimate object of their wedded bliss: this 298 euro, or $380, wedding gown, pictured here with Horsting and Snoeren in the ad campaign shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 9. Chloé to Name Marni’s Paolo Melin Anderson as Head Designer By Miles Socha French fashion house later this about its succession plan after its hloé has tapped a senior, but year. show during Paris Fashion Week. Chidden, talent from Marni to Reached late on Wednesday, a Anderson, a Swedish native who succeed Phoebe Philo, WWD has Chloé spokesman said only, “We has worked at Marni for several learned. do not comment on rumors.” years, will assume the design According to sources, Paolo However, the house said recently helm at one of the fastest-growing Melin Anderson will join the it would make an announcement See Chloé, Page 10 WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION ™ For better or worse, themes played a big role in the Milan collections, from a silvery space theme to a football game to a fashion safari. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL French fashion house Chloé is said to have tapped a senior, but hidden, IN THE CARDS 1 talent, Paolo Melin Anderson, from Marni to succeed Phoebe Philo. Women Increasingly Rely on Gift Cards for Holiday Giving Federated Department Stores said billionaire investor Carl Icahn wants to 3 acquire up to $500 million in additional shares of the company. The holidays are her favorite time of the allow women to shop for apparel items that fit Kellwood Co. has acquired CRL Group, owner of the Vince brand and trademark, the Los Angeles-based contemporary resource. year and Debbie, a busy mother of three, has found their bodies and who they are. We have found 3 a savvy way of extending the joys of the season to this to be true at Eddie Bauer, where our woman Iconix Brand Group and Sears Holdings have renewed and expanded the many of her friends and family. “I buy gift cards,” is using her gift cards to purchase apparel that 5 Joe Boxer license and will now sell products in Kmart and Sears stores. she says. “Not only are gift cards a really convenient supports her modern outdoor lifestyle and find Not only did Viktor & Rolf say “I do” to a hookup with H&M, the com- gift to buy, but I give every person her perfect fit,”says Lisa Erickson, 10 pany designed a wedding dress for the occasion that will retail for $378. the option of getting what they Director of Public Relations for DENIM: Premium denim trends such as skinny cuts, high waists and want and more importantly, the national retailer. 16 suspenders might be diffi cult to translate to the masses. when they want it.” When asked exactly what BEAT: Erica Davies, design director at Development, will add her name to Patricia Pao, a retail expert and women will want in apparel the label and launch the Erica Davies Collection dress line with the fi rm. founder of The Pao Principle, a this holiday, Thompson from 17 consultancy based in New York, Talbots offers a quick hit list. Gildan Activewear said it will cut 546 jobs in the U.S. and Canada, as it agrees that gift cards are smart “Comfy velour knit separates 19 relocates production to Central America and the Caribbean. way of turning a short season for lounging, yoga, errands into a year-long celebration, and life beyond work, but also EYE which is the general life span French terry robes, soft cotton Kirsten Dunst and other celebrities felt at home on the tapestry-covered of the average card. “Gift cards knit or velour pajamas, cotton 4 lawn at the Chanel after-party for a screening of “Marie Antoinette.” offer a perpetual holiday at the turtlenecks with subtle metallic Classifi ed Advertisements...... 22-23 recipient’s demand,” she observes. stripes, and knit mittens, gloves To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. “They foster an ongoing dialogue and scarves.” Comfort clearly [email protected], using the individual’s name. throughout the year, since your appears to be an important trend WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- both for gift giving and one’s RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. recipients are likely to call you or “A gift card is convenient and safe write you and mention what they personal shopping this holiday VOLUME 192, NO. 66. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- when you know the brand a person ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- have bought with the gift card. and cotton seems to be a key ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, likes, but aren’t sure of her size, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers It’s a gift that does not end with factor in achieving this wardrobe favorite colors or personal style Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and the holiday.” nirvana. Shoppers who choose to C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; preferences. On the receiving end, David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Clearly, women have been give apparel as a gift would be wise Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance wooed by the ease and benefits gift cards can be a sigh of relief to note that natural fibers, such Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. because you get a fun “excuse” to Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. afforded by gift cards in recent as cotton, were the preference 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable do a little indulgent shopping Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS years, and they will be snapping of 74% of female respondents, CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, them up again this year in strong for yourself” according to the Monitor. ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR — Betsy Thompson, DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four numbers. Nearly three in four Men, in particular, may wish weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Talbots Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other female respondents told the to take the aforementioned wish U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle list into consideration, since they First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions Monitor™ that they planned to purchase gift cards (at 64%) were slightly less likely than women (at and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make during the holiday season as presents for others. 72%) to say they would buy gift cards this season. our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would For the majority of women, gift cards give what Men were also less likely (at 33%) to want to receive interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. women would like to receive; according to the a gift card this season. These numbers likely reflect WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- their feelings about shopping and the fact that SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- Monitor, nearly one in two female respondents said ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, that they want to receive a gift card this season. men may not be the primary shoppers for gifts in OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Forget impersonal gift certificates or cash, their families, says Bastos, the researcher. “Men electronic gift cards are the new debit card for wish may be reluctant to give a gift that requires the fulfillment, particularly recipient to do more when the card can Do You Plan To Purchase Gift Cards shopping, when we In Brief be personalized by As Holiday Presents This Year? know that the majority choice of retailer and, of men describe their ● BLU IN SAN FRANCISCO: Blue Holdings Inc., which owns to a lesser degree, by apparel shopping hip denim brands Antik Denim, Taverniti So Jeans and color, pattern or even a Yes 72% experience as an activity Yanuk, opened its first multibrand Blu store in San Francisco photograph, considers No 25% they undertake simply on Thursday. This is the second freestanding unit for the Betsy Thompson, to get what they need.” Commerce, Calif.-based company, which launched a mono-brand Director of Public Don’t Know 3% Women, however, Antik Denim store on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles last year. Relations for Talbots, do enjoy shopping as The store, which is about 3,600-square-feet, is in the Westfield San Francisco Centre mall and carries women’s, kids’ and men’s the national retailer. “Gift cards; what’s not to the numbers attest; 54% told the Monitor that premium denim from its three brands, in addition to pieces from love?,” she opines. “A gift card is convenient and they like or love shopping, and gift cards seem to be knitwear company Life & Death. Blue Holdings brands are sold safe when you know the brand a person likes, but the perfect vehicle to help spread the love. “Think at better department stores such as Bloomingdale’s, Neiman aren’t sure of her size, favorite colors or personal of a gift card as a gift of experience,” says Pao, the Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as specialty boutiques in style preferences. On the receiving end, gift cards retail expert. “It’s a way of giving personal time the U.S., Canada, France, Hong Kong, Japan and the U.K. can be a sigh of relief because you get a fun “excuse” to someone to indulge herself in solitude, or it’s a ● to do a little indulgent shopping for yourself.” way of sharing time. If you give a gift card to a child POLO’S EURO BOND: Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. will sell a seven-year, 300 million euro, or $381 million, bond today, which That excuse generally means the average female or young person, you are bringing the parent in on will fund general corporate purposes and will refinance a 275 will be indulging herself in new apparel. When the gift process, allowing them to shop and explore million euro, or $349 million, bond it sold in 1999 that matures in asked by the Monitor about their favorite item together as a team,” she observes. November. Dollar figures are at the average exchange rate. The of choice to shop for, clothing was the number It appears that smart shoppers everywhere will company said last week that any notes offered will be offered ex- one choice, with 46% of female respondents be wise to put their proverbial gift cards on the clusively outside the U.S. to non-U.S. investors. selecting apparel. “We know from our research table. that when women want to shop and treat This story is one in a series of articles based on find- ● BERTOLUCCI PRESIDENT: Swiss timepiece brand Bertolucci SA has named Thierry Collot as U.S. president. It is a new po- ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ themselves, they are looking to buy apparel,” says sition for the brand, which was acquired by Dickson Concepts Melissa Bastos, Manager of Market Research for tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these (International) Ltd. in 2005. Collot will report to president and Cotton Incorporated. “Often a woman will trade pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it chief executive officer Philippe Belais. Collot had been president up with a gift card and use it to defray the cost relates to the American consumer and her attitudes of the North American subsidiary of Daum Crystal since 2002. of a higher priced item; the card offers a nice and behavior regarding clothing, He intends to launch a new campaign for the brand in November justification for her.” appearance, fashion, fiber selection and in the U.S. and build a stronger overall distribution. Bertolucci “Gift cards are a great option, because they many other timely, relevant subjects. was founded by Remo Bertolucci in 1987 and is known for its feminine watches with straps, cases and bezels inspired by the pebbled beaches of the Mediterranean. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 3 WWD.COM Icahn to Raise Stake in Federated

By Vicki M. Young worked as a retail analyst on Wall Street, said, “I Carl Icahn think he just sees value in the company, the potential BILLIONAIRE INVESTOR CARL ICAHN WANTS for Federated once it has merged Federated and May to boost his existing stake in Federated Department Co. stores successfully and has a more centralized Stores by as much as $500 million, which sent the operation. He sees for the long term how Federated retailer’s stock almost 2 percent higher Wednesday can be a lean company with improved margins from in heavy trading. better markup because of reduced competition.” Federated said on Wednesday that Icahn notifi ed Loeb said the numbers don’t quite work out yet the company that he plans to seek clearance under regarding Icahn having any significant input in the Hart-Scott-Rodino Antitrust Improvements Act Federated’s operation. “Federated has about 553 to acquire $113.4 million to $500 million worth of million shares outstanding. Icahn’s got 2.1 million additional shares of Federated. Icahn owns about shares of the company. He has some ways to go be- 2.1 million shares, or 0.37 percent of the company. fore he can make an impact,’’ he said. Adding $500 million in shares would bring him close Emanuel Weintraub, a retail and apparel con- to 3 percent ownership. NEWS/LANDOV DANIEL ACKER/BLOOMBERG PHOTO BY sultant of the fi rm that bears his name, said: “It Federated shares climbed 77 cents, or 1.85 per- seems like he thinks that the company is going to cent, to close at $42.42 in New York Stock Exchange dominate the retail space because of Macy’s. I don’t trading. Almost 11.4 million shares changed hands, see any fl aws or something people could pick apart compared with an average trading volume of 4.4 mil- and say there is a fundamental fl aw in the business lion. In intraday trading, shares hit a 52-week high of model at Federated. [This is not like] dealing with a $43.90, representing a 5.4 percent gain over Tuesday’s troubled company. You are dealing with a company close of $41.65 for those who sold at the high. that can execute well and is getting better…this just might be an investment in a company that has a While our stock hit an all- very strong ability.” Icahn has held stakes in retail and apparel fi rms. time“ high four times in the He invested in Perry Ellis International, with the bulk from his holdings in Salant Corp., which was past three weeks, we continue later acquired by Perry Ellis. In an exclusive interview with WWD in 2003, to see signifi cant opportunity Icahn said there were some good investment op- portunities in retail and apparel. Later that year, he ahead as we maximize the upped his stake in Tropical Sportswear International Corp. to 920,000 shares, or 8.3 percent, of the com- Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s mon stock in May from 7.3 percent stake a month earlier. Earlier this year Icahn increased his stake brands nationwide. in BJ’s Wholesale Club, which was a buyout candi- date, although some institutional investors, who re- ” quested anonymity, believe that Icahn’s holdings in — Terry J. Lundgren, Federated Department Stores BJ’s is purely an investment play. Icahn, who was raised in Queens and earned his reputation as a raider following his hostile takeover “We’re glad Mr. Icahn sees value in our com- of TWA in 1985, has met with his fair share of hits pany and is increasing his investment,” said Terry and misses on the proxy battlefront. His more recent J. Lundgren, Federated’s chairman, president and ventures include Time Warner and Blockbuster. At chief executive offi cer, in a statement. “While our Time Warner, he led a group seeking to break up the stock hit an all-time high four times in the past three company into four fi rms but later agreed not to con- weeks, we continue to see signifi cant opportunity ahead as we maximize the Macy’s test the reelection of Time Warner’s slate of board members at the 2006 shareholder’s and Bloomingdale’s brands nationwide.” meeting in exchange for an agreement by the company that it would buy back up to The disclosure of Icahn’s intent had some investors wondering about his true in- $20 billion of stock and nominate more independent board members. terests in the retailer because of his past investments and reputation for being an “We want these assets to be productive. We buy them. We own them. To say we care activist shareholder and corporate raider. They cited his skirmish with Time Warner only about the short term is wrong. What I care about is seeing these assets in the best and his $703 million purchase of bankrupt Westpoint Stevens, the maker of Martha hands,” Icahn once said. Stewart sheets and towels. As for plans for companies that he holds a stake in, Icahn once said, “We’re not Several veteran portfolio managers at institutional investment houses, however, about liquidating companies, but if you do that, why is that terrible? We’re not said they believe Icahn’s intent is simply an investment in a good fi rm. Others in the blowing up the factories. The person who buys it should be able to make the asset retail sector agreed. more productive.” Walter Loeb, a retail consultant of the fi rm that bears his name and who once — With contributions from Jeanine Poggi Kellwood to Buy CRL Group, Vince Brand

By Whitney Beckett once the acquisition is effective, the collection will be Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Av- shipped from Kellwood’s facilities in City of Industry, enue, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. ellwood Co. has signed a deal to acquire CRL Calif. Vince will operate as part of Kellwood’s Western Laccone predicted that Vince would generate more KGroup LLC, owner of the brand and trademark for Region division. than $100 million in volume in the next couple of Vince, the Southern California-based women’s contem- “We are thrilled we will be able years. Under Kellwood’s ownership, porary collection. to realize our plans for the company Laccone and LaPolice plan to extend The brand gives Kellwood, the $2 billion apparel through Kellwood,” said Laccone, who the brand through freestanding re- manufacturer, an entry point into the higher-end con- before Vince started Laundry in 1988 tail stores, subsidiary lines like Baby temporary market, adding panache to a portfolio large- and built it into a sizable business. Vince, licensed accessories and inter- ly weighted in moderate brands. Vince is expected to “Unlike with a lot of other large stra- national expansion. generate sales of $45 million this year. Terms of the tegic partners, we really think we are “The beauty of having Kellwood transaction, which should be completed by the end of going to mean something at Kellwood, as a partner is that they want to grow next month, weren’t disclosed. and they are going to give Vince a lot Vince in a comfortable way, where “What we are trying to do is maximize our dominant of attention and a lot of potential to we can protect the products of the position in moderate and at the same time increase grow.” company and continue to operate our presence in higher-profi le, high-growth lifestyle Kellwood was represented by Banc of with a focus on specialty stores and brands,” said Robert C. Skinner Jr., chairman, presi- America Securities, and CRL Group was luxury retailers,” LaPolice said. “It is dent and chief executive offi cer of Kellwood. “We are represented by the Sage Group LLC. a wonderful position to be this jewel very disciplined when we do acquisitions — this is the “Kellwood has had Vince in within this stable of brands. And with fi rst acquisition since Phat Farm in February 2004 — its sights for a while,” said Mark Kellwood looking to diversify as they but when we see the right opportunity to build share- Vidergauz, ceo and managing director are, it gives us this support to realize holder value with a brand like this, we will take it.” of the Sage Group, the Los Angeles in- what we want to do.” Through its Phat Farm acquisition, the company also vestment banking fi rm. “This is a won- Kellwood’s portfolio of more than produces the Baby Phat urban contemporary collection. derful opportunity for Kellwood — it Robert C. a dozen labels is based largely in the CRL Group is owned by John Paul Richard Inc., Rea puts them into the high-end market. Skinner Jr. moderate market, with brands such Laccone and Christopher LaPolice. Laccone will con- And they will be able to provide the as Sag Harbor, Koret and Miss Dorby. tinue as ceo, and LaPolice will stay on as president of back-offi ce support for Vince to grow.” Much of its business is done through Vince for at least fi ve years. LaPolice said all 36 people Vince began almost fi ve years ago as a contem- licenses, such as those with Oscar de la Renta and on the Vince team will remain on staff, and the only porary women’s sportswear collection, particularly Calvin Klein for better sportswear. The Vince buy re- tangible change will be the shipping centers. Vince known for its knitwear. The brand is sold at select spe- fl ects Kellwood’s larger strategy to buy higher-end des- merchandise is shipped from Calabasas, Calif., and cialty stores and high-end retailers including Barneys, tination brands. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM Queen Bees “It has its Versailles-like proclivities,” said André Balazs of his Chateau Marmont, dolled up to look like the French palace on Tuesday night at the Chanel-sponsored after party for a special screening of “Marie Antoinette.” “She could defi nitely hang out here.” Cinema queen Kirsten Dunst and Hollywood princes and princesses certainly felt at home on the tapestry-covered lawn littered with tufted ottomans and settees. “Gorgeous, just gorgeous,” Barbara declared Courtney Love, though it was unclear whether Wilhelm she was referring to the tableau — peopled with the and Lauren likes of Sofi a Coppola, Elle Macpherson, Penélope Davis, both Cruz, Mischa Barton and Maria Bello — or the fi lm. in Chanel. Elsewhere in the milieu, co-star Steve Hope Coogan waxed poetic on period fi lms with fellow Davis Brit Geoffrey Rush. “The two of us are just blowing smoke up each other’s arses, actually,” he said drily.

Meanwhile, in the parlor, cleared of its furniture Floats Hope to make room for a checkered dance fl oor and bar, Amanda Brooks NEW YORK — It’s just a few hours until the premiere Orlando Bloom asked, “It’s rather like a high school in Chanel with party for “Six Degrees,” the new J.J. Abrams show about dance, don’t you think?” as Drew Barrymore and Marielle Safra Allison Sarofi m. the intertwining lives of six strangers in Manhattan, Fabrizio Moretti swayed and smooched in a corner. in Chanel. but right now, the cast is still shooting a Halloween The party went strong until the wee hours, when some of the episode in the East Village. Erika Christensen runs by guests fi nally left for the club Guy’s. “Just for an hour,” Cruz promised in a wig and full makeup, Zoe Saldana is trying to fi nd her friends as they hustled out. her trailer, and there are grown men milling around in It was a busy day for the Chanel folk. Hours earlier in New York, freakish costumes. But from the mayhem of Fourth the company and Lauren Davis, Marielle Safra and Barbara Wilhelm Avenue surfaces a very serene Hope Davis. Kirsten Dunst hosted a ladies’ lunch in Grand Central Terminal for a private viewing The actress has every reason to be content these in Chanel. of the house’s cruise collection, which drew the likes of Margherita days. She’s happily married to actor Jon Patrick Walker, Missoni, Eleanor Ylvisaker, Shoshanna Gruss, Amanda Brooks and Anne has two daughters, and just moved her family into a Grauso. Of course, the room was sprinkled with ladies in their vintage, borrowed or new house. She’s also landed, as she puts it, “a steady very own Chanel, which intrigued designer Rachel Roy. “I love seeing all this Chanel job for once.” Beloved by discerning fi lm fans for her worn in so many different ways,” she said. canny portrayals of substantive, diffi cult women in Davis was among those who displayed the signature bouclé in the most modern of indies like “American Splendor” and “The Secret Lives ways, donning a teeny-weeny cream mini and matching coat. “This is all available at of Dentists,” Davis is now on TV every Thursday (the Bergdorf Goodman,” she cracked. “Including the hair and makeup.” second episode of “Six Degrees” airs tonight on ABC). “I really loved this character,” says Davis, who signed on to play Laura, a young mother whose Amanda Demme with Sofi a Coppola in Chanel. journalist husband has been killed in Iraq. “What she’s facing in her life is something I witnessed a close friend go through. I’ve always thought a lot about all those women who were left behind — whether through the war in Iraq or what happened on 9/11.” Perhaps due to the subject matter of the series — which follows six people around the city as their fates intersect — Davis is seeing a lot of kismet. “The people involved in the show are all New York Village-y types and we all lived within a two-block radius of each other,” she says. Though Davis is more experienced in fi lm (she was on TV for “two seconds” in 2000’s short-lived “Deadline”), “this doesn’t feel any different to me. It feels like we are making an independent fi lm, but we just keep going.” The only variation might be the back-breaking pace, which often requires her to learn a script in a mere two days. But the contemplative Vassar grad doesn’t seem like one to shy from a challenge. If anything, Davis has earned everything she’s achieved. “I never got cast as the dumb bombshell,” she explains. “That’s just not my thing.” And she won’t be one in her next role, as Truman Capote confi dante Slim Keith in “Infamous,” which she fi lmed just 10 weeks after giving birth to her youngest, Mae. “It was so much fun to slip into that Jaime King in Chanel with world,” she says. “The only bummer is that I was really Rose McGowan Jason Schwartzman in Dior pretty chunky, so I don’t look that great in the clothes.” and Penélope Cruz, Homme by Hedi Slimane at both in Chanel. the Chateau Marmont. — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz

season of college football in West Virginia but soon felt the game’s luster had faded. So he returned home, where he spent two, rather lost years. “I SAINTS AND SINNERS was a nomad. I was a gypsy.” He moved down to Miami, was discovered NEW YORK — The well-trod path of models-turned-actors can offer some on the street by a modeling scout and soon found himself in New York rather tragic scenery, but former male mannequin Channing Tatum doing commercials, including a high-profi le one for Mountain Dew. looks set to prove he is more than just an Abercrombie & Fitch-worthy “People were talking to me about scripts and stuff, and I was like, pinup. His physically taxing role in the summer crowd-pleaser “Step ‘I don’t even know how to act!’ ” says Tatum, who grew up watching Up” showed his dancing moves, and now he demonstrates his dark and classic movies, from “The Goonies” to “Cool Hand Luke.” Ten seconds violent side in “A Guide to Recognizing Your Saints,” due out Friday. in an acting workshop had him sold, and he hasn’t stopped since. He is The fi lm, which won awards for directing and ensemble cast at this already halfway through shooting an untitled project from “Boys Don’t year’s Sundance, is based on director and writer Dito Montiel’s memoir Cry” director Kimberly Peirce in Austin, Tex., opposite Ryan Phillippe and of the same name. Framed by Dito’s (played by Robert Downey Jr.) Joseph Gordon-Levitt. return home for the fi rst time in 15 years to see his ailing father (Chazz “It is a movie with a huge background of military and war, but it is so Palminteri), “A Guide” follows, through his reminiscences, his teenage much more about the relationships that are forged by these things,” says life and his group of friends as they navigate their rough, mid-Eighties Tatum. “You get put in these situations with these people and you make immigrant neighborhood in Astoria, Queens. Tatum plays Antonio, a these bonds with them….You can be lifelong friends with somebody and violent, volatile guy from an abusive home who acts as the gang’s de then you go through a war…and people change, and you know they’ve facto leader and, at times, dictator. changed, and you don’t know how to fi x them.” When he fi rst read the script — in the bathtub, where he does all For now, it is just these kinds of emotional parts that appeal to the such perusals (“I hope that’s not creepy,” he grins) — Tatum felt an actor. Certainly his role as Antonio, with his violent outbursts, can be a immediate kinship to the story, even if he spent most of his life in tough-love sell to some viewers. But Tatum has little interest in winning Tampa, Fla. over the affections of his fans through his character choices. “My childhood friend is Antonio,” he explains, perched on a couch Channing Tatum “You’re not supposed to like everybody. Do you like everybody that you at the SoHo Grand. “I’m not going to sit here and tell you I grew up in meet?” he challenges. “Get over having a happy ending. Why can’t you the projects, because I didn’t. But you can get into trouble and have just as many crazy, crazy, look a little darker and a little deeper into yourself and see maybe some of the wrong things crazy times, and I did. I was more the Dito in my life, though. I was more the guy just trying you might have done in your life? No one’s a saint….But I think it’s just a picture, it just shows to keep everything together and chill out and make everything OK. And then I left everybody, I you something that happened….I think so many movies don’t do that anymore. They try to be left a lot of people in my life.” funny and witty. And this just says, all right, this happened. Take it for what you will.” Indeed, Tatum, 26, has moved many miles from his high school jock days. He played a — Vanessa Lawrence MARIE ANTOINETTE PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA; JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE; DUNST BY DONATO MARIE ANTOINETTE PHOTOS BY BOB D’AMICO/ABC BY DAVIS ANTONOV; PAVEL BY AND TATUM LUNCH CENTRAL GRAND WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 5 WWD.COM Sears Stores to Carry Joe Boxer Brand

By Vicki M. Young lationship with Iconix. They are great partners, and there The Joe is nothing we can’t do,” Schultz said. Boxer line JOE BOXER IS HEADED TO SEARS. She added that Sears has the advantage because at Kmart. Iconix Brand Group Inc. and Sears Holdings Corp. it is also a more vertical retailer in regard to design have renewed and expanded the Joe Boxer license, and and sourcing. “We can control the look and feel of the the new terms will allow Sears to sell Joe Boxer prod- brand. I’m proud of Kmart and Joe Boxer. We’re really ucts in both its Kmart and Sears stores. Boxer is the at the beginning. We’ve been cleaning up the brand, get- fi rst apparel brand to cross over to Sears following the ting it focused and meaningful. There is so much op- $11 billion merger of Kmart Holding Corp. and Sears, portunity. It started as a men’s brand, and it has now Roebuck & Co., completed last year. Three Sears brands developed into a nice women’s business at Kmart in the — Kenmore, Craftsman and DieHard — are currently last few years.” available in Kmart stores. At Sears, Boxer joins fashion brands Lands’ End, Neil Cole, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Apostrophe and Covington. Iconix, said in a telephone interview, “Iconix’s goal is to “It’s very exciting for us to be working and signing a help drive young people into Sears….Joe Boxer has a 90 long-term agreement with Sears Holdings. Lisa and her percent brand awareness, [and we hope] it will be an im- team have been executing Boxer at Kmart for two years portant part of Sears Holdings for many years to come.” and doing a great job. We’ve been trying to work with Lisa Schultz, the top apparel and home design ex- them to get Boxer into Sears, and we’re excited about the ecutive at Kmart who in November 2005 was tapped to opportunity going forward,” noted Cole. oversee all apparel design teams Lisa Schultz and Neil Cole

as executive vice president of Sears Holdings Apparel Design, said in a telephone interview that the goal is to start selling Boxer product in Sears stores ei- ther beginning next fall or by the following holiday season, which would be the third or fourth quarter of 2007. Because the agreement was just signed, ex- ecutives at the two fi rms are still in the early stages of conceptual- izing details such as brand posi- tioning and price points. Schultz was emphatic about the intro- duction of a premium version of Boxer to Sears stores, while keeping the existing Boxer line and price points at Kmart. “My intention is an enhanced product line for Sears, similar to what you see in the depart- ment stores. Because we do so much in-house and are direct importers, we can provide more quality to the product and give [added] value to the consumer,” she said. The line at Sears will retain the Joe Boxer brand name, with perhaps a slight variation to the name to distinguish it from the line at Kmart. Boxer is in the intimates, swimwear and acces- sories categories at Kmart and will be in the same departments at Sears. Expansion opportunity does exist to bring the Boxer name to other categories, wheth- er in Kmart or at Sears. According to Cole, the exist- ing Boxer licensing agreement had another year remaining. The new agreement extends the initial five-year deal for another three years, running through 2010. Because the line is exclusive to Sears Holdings, the retailer will have fi nal say in whatever category it chooses to launch the Boxer name. “We’re very happy for the re- 6 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 Motif Power Gucci For better or for worse, themes played a big role in the Italian spring collections. The notions explored ranged from a silvery space world to a football game to a fashion safari.

Gucci: The Milan malaise — it’s been the topic of the week. Everybody knows that except for Prada, trends do not start here, nor does anything resembling new talent stop here for any length of time. At its best, Milan boasts other strengths — beautiful, approachable, still-interesting clothes and exquisite manufacturing. Unfortunately, midway through the collections here, they have been in scant supply. Case in point: Gucci, where on Wednesday Frida Giannini showed an inexplicable collection. At this point, Gucci’s era of high infl uence is long gone, replaced by a calmer aura all the way around, except for the numbers, which just keep soaring. There’s nothing wrong with Giannini’s runway supporting the reality that Gucci is, fi rst and foremost, not a hotbed for trends, but a major commercial gold mine bringing chic to the tony masses. Only, the clothes Giannini showed were anything but a commercial juggernaut. They played like a joust between silvery Courrèges space chicks and Eastern European majorettes, jacketed, caped and outlined in patent purple and red. Huh? Even the scores of printed baby-doll dresses could only look not silly on models — a notoriously unreliable market. What is Gucci today? A little jacket over tight pants? A loud print slapped onto every possible garment? Shoes with hardware? Those motifs, even when attractive, hardly make a fashion image. Then again, maybe it doesn’t matter. Perhaps the cash cow that is Gucci will ultimately put the lie to the truism about a strong fashion identity fueling the best of accessories machines. For now, however, it’s hard to imagine this collection fueling anything but dismay.

Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti’s dresses are tried and true. Her measured approach to spring meant scores of subtly girly options for the partygoer-to-be. In fact, she sent out enough pretty frocks to last 1,001 nights. Ferretti twisted the bodice of a wispy pink Gucci number into a sweet rosette. She veiled a glittering gown with ivory chiffon, creating a glazed effect. And, better than most, she knows just how to tuck and gather chiffon. This time out, besides her renowned chiffons, Alberta Ferretti also worked in high-sheen charmeuse, Ferretti doing draped minidresses in synch with the season’s volume-fi xation. But if no news is good news, then this collection — full of pleasant-enough clothes — was great.

Just Cavalli: With Astroturf underfoot, scoreboards and a goal post-accented runway — even an introductory marching band à la Jacobs — the stage was set at Just Cavalli for a football extravaganza. But rather than overindulge in the theme, Roberto Cavalli reined in his references, opening with a simple beige trench with oversized gold buttons before launching into his seductive take on sports trappings. And if his party-girl customer isn’t a jock kind of gal, there were also loads of colorful ruffled print dresses and body-clinging, midriff-bearing sexpot numbers to keep her happy.

Moschino Cheap and Chic: A cutout cartoon giraffe by way of invitation could only mean one thing — safari time at Moschino Cheap and Chic. Naturally, with its puff-sleeved safari jackets, a slew of tailored cargo shorts and African-print dresses, that MILAN classic look took on the label’s habitual cheeky/cutesy spin. Heeding the call of the wild, however, led to mixed results: simple pleats for the working girl as well as cringe-worthy gimmicks such as a giraffe-printed column gown. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Alberta Ferretti

Moschino ▼ Cheap and Chic

Just Cavalli PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO DAVIDE PHOTOS BY

publications: The New York Times and Style.com. The Times’ Camilla Belle Cathy Horyn confi rmed that she was not invited to today’s Fashion Scoops Dolce & Gabbana show, but declined further comment. Dolce & Gabbana is the second fashion house this season to ban GUCCI GUESTS: John Legend and Camilla Belle were in the front Horyn and the Times — Carolina Herrera did it in New York. row at the Gucci show Wednesday, then headed to the house’s As for Style.com, Candy Pratts Price said, “We’re 85th anniversary bash later that night. Legend gave a live not invited for men’s or women’s.” She reasoned the Italian performance at the party, playing a grand piano and singing for duo were displeased with Sarah Mower’s review of D&G’s about 40 minutes before embarking on a European publicity fall-winter show last October. A spokeswoman for the tour through Madrid, London (he’s gracing the stage at Royal designers said the editors were not invited for Albert Hall on Monday night) and Paris for his next album, “private reasons.” “Once Again,” which is coming out in a month. “[It’s] a wide range of infl uences from Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye to hip- COSMOPOLITAN CHIC: Sarah Jessica Parker worked up a hop to classic pop, jazz, a little bit of everything,” he said. paparazzi frenzy in Paris on Tuesday. She camped out Just back from a six-month stint in Africa where she in Lanvin’s fl agship on the Faubourg Saint Honore and wrapped up her latest movie, “10,000 B.C.,” Belle felt at tried on dresses. Speculation was that the star, who left home among the fashion fray. Her mother was a fashion buyer with a cinched coat, cocktail dresses and a selection and designed her own line in Brazil. Belle’s next project, of the brand’s ballerina shoes, was in town working on though, has nothing to do with acting or fashion. “I’d like to John Legend a movie project but probably won’t stick around for the enroll at Columbia to study languages or art history,” she said. STEPHANE FEUGERE LEGEND, BELLE PHOTOS BY Paris shows. Over the channel in London, Nicole Kidman At the party, Gucci unveiled a touch computer-screen to fl ip through the book with a simple touch of the screen. If was snapping up knits at Ballantyne. The Oscar-winning kiosk to showcase the pages of its new anniversary book, only snagging a hot handbag were so easy. actress made two stops in the store to buy some cashmere “Gucci by Gucci.” The high-tech gadget bows at the Via Ts and some ties for hubby Keith Urban. The Italian-owned Montenapoleone store this week and will roll out to other key BANNED IN MILAN: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have Scottish brand is ready to open its fi rst Milan shop on Via Gucci fl agships in November. The monitor allows customers rolled out the unwelcome mat to two prominent fashion Sant’Andrea next spring. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 Special Trussardi Additions MILAN Making collections distinctive is all in the details, from lots of leopard patterns to intricate draping and tucking to leather treated as fabric.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua: “Spring is what I call Amazon couture,” said Alessandro Dell’Acqua. Fit for sophisticated party animals, Dell’Acqua’s focused jungle romp favored clean-cut outerwear, boxy minidresses and a substantial use of leopard prints. Macro or micro, in savannah brown or grass green, the spotted element showed up on almost every exit — from trimmings and linings to full outfi ts, from chain-mail numbers to platform shoes. And it all hit the spot.

Antonio Marras: Antonio Marras celebrated his 10th anniversary with a collection that flaunted his penchant for intricate cuts, elaborate proportions and freewheeling embellishments. Out came a parade of rustling silk numbers, some draped on the side or tucked in the back, while others had underpinnings at the hem. Marras is a young designer with a seasoned eye for fabrics, and this time he paired spring bouquets with dusty solids and played with all

Alessandro 6267 Dell’Acqua

Piazza sorts of black-and-white Sempione checkered combinations.

6267: Milan’s promising young designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi of 6267 had a spring shift of aesthetics. The Italian duo loosened up this season in a high- octane collection glinting in satin and chain mail. The designers started with oversized Lurex jackets and loose silk maillot tops, followed by generously cut beaded mesh tank dresses. There were also body-hugging pieces, including skinny cropped satin pants often worn as leggings. At times the designers overshot proportions but the collection’s cool tone and confident attitude were spot-on. The pair cited Alessandro silent film star Louise Dell’Acqua Brooks as inspiration, but gem tones, wonderful embroidery and graphic color blocks made this collection anything but silent.

Trussardi: Trussardi is keeping the design post in the family. Former creative director Beatrice Trussardi has handed the reins to younger sister Gaia, and, although the 28-year- old has no fashion-design degree, she believes hands-on experience is better than any class. That held true to a point in her first collection. Trussardi treated leather as fabric, draping and perforating it and even sprinkling it with rhinestones. This freshman collection of solid daytime basics — suede coatdresses, cropped pants and silk wrap tops — was better than many a fashion student’s senior project.

Piazza Sempione: Sensible clothes with a flicker of the hot trends — that’s the formula Marisa Guerrizio sticks to, and it works like a charm for the company. For spring, the designer created an eclectic wardrobe, inspired by a “mental journey” to several cool getaways. Guerrizio’s globe-trotting collection hit Mexico with joyously colored shifts, London in a batch of tissue-light trenchcoats and Capri with such summer perennials as Bermuda shorts and pretty camisoles. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 9 WWD.COM Antonio Marras Loro more from Piana the shows

Loro Piana: Blouson jackets, lined Belstaff in cashmere, and easy silk georgette tank dresses in a rose leaf print showed why Loro Piana is a great luxury sportswear resource.

Agnona: Agnona creative director Gunn Johannson’s feminine details, like ruffl ed fi nishes and shawl collars on the house’s killer knits, looked modern in a palette of white and tan.

Moncler Gamme Rouge: Alessandra Facchinetti took out the down and put a lot of glamour in Moncler’s spring Gamme Rouge collection, transforming baseball and safari jackets into chic city confections courtesy of silk elastic puckering, black pearls and superimposed silver rings.

Belstaff: Despite the collective fashion opinion that a Belstaff Moncler runway show is Gamme superfl uous, the Rouge company continues

Agnona ▼ Alberto to distract from its Biani great, technical jackets — like standout color- block confections and steamy cropped metallic ponchos — with some mundane takes on designer apparel.

Alberto Biani: For those who’ve had their fair share of girly fl ourishes, Alberto Biani offered a battery of precision-cut tailored pieces and stark shirts.

Pollini by Rifat Ozbek: Watercolor palms, Samoan op art and royal Hawaiian brocades were just a few of the prints Rifat Ozbek worked into chiffon shift minidresses and tailored cropped jackets in Pollini’s pleasant spring collection, though the ethnic theme wasn’t a surprise.

Schumacher: The contemporary German brand’s pretty spring collection highlighted shell colors, contrasting textures, glittering metallics and pleated bows.

Mariella Burani: Spring for Mariella Burani is one big tarantella dance with enough fl ares, fl ounces, lace and fl orals to keep the festive mood running 24/7. MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

Nicky Hilton Miami, scheduled to open later this year. scene on the store’s second fl oor. “Though I have to get all my clothes specially made....My nickname’s Clyde, and I’ve worn ALSO THERE: If Nicky Hilton created waves on the Just Cavalli hats like the character in the movie.” runway, pop star Rihanna did the same in the audience. And Meanwhile, downstairs, more expected guests like Helen she was doing a little research, too, talking about launching Schifter and Jennifer Creel admired the goods, with 10 percent her own fashion line. “I’m thinking about it, and I’ve talked of cruise collection sales going toward the charity. “I want about it thoroughly, although nothing has been signed yet,” Dayssi to see I’m here,” joked Schifter of committee member said Rihanna, dressed in a black minidress by Just Cavalli. “I Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, who arrived moments later. “This top don’t want to do anything rushed. I want to do it right, and I is like a pillow!” want [the line] to be classy.” Class is defi nitely a priority, as the artist checks out her image in a mirror with a critical eye, EYES ON THE PRIZE: Fendi, which shows its spring collection looking at the harmony between her high-heeled pumps, her in Milan today, is tightening up its historic ties to the fi lm skirt and her legs. In discussing her fashion sense and style, industry — and in its hometown. The fashion house, boasting Rihanna, who loves looks from designers as diverse as Zac costume credits in fi lms from Luchino Visconti to Sofi a Posen and Cavalli, said she “likes to be different.” She enjoys Coppola, is sponsoring a new prize at the upcoming Rome the “more daring, edgy” Cavalli looks, but also the feminine, Film Fest Oct. 13-21. The Fendi Prize will go to the winner PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY fi tting Posen dresses. But don’t even suggest being inspired of the “New Cinema Network” section, which focuses on by designers — Rihanna has enough opportunities to test independent-fi lm newcomers. Fendi said it will help sponsor Fashion Scoops clothing on her own. “When I perform, I want to be able to the second fi lm of the winning director. The selection jury move freely without worrying about pulling down or covering consists of Oscar-winning producers, including Gabriele up, and I often have custom-made costumes. When I’m on the Salvatores of “Mediterraneo” fame. HILTON CHECKS IN: Although Nicky Hilton has walked the red carpet, it’s a different story. I like to do the unexpected.” Meanwhile, Calvin Klein just projected its own cinematic runway at Heatherette, her closing at the Just Cavalli show creation. The house premiered creative director Francisco was a fi rst for the heiress, who, despite her jet-setting CRUISIN’ THROUGH: Their celebrity-studded fall gala may Costa’s short fi lm on Tuesday at the Calvin Klein Collection lifestyle, had never been to Milan. At ease and without a trace have been less than a week ago, but on Wednesday night presentation in Milan. The 15-minute fi lm, which stars in- of nerves, Hilton said before the show that she had already the New Yorkers for Children host committee was still going house model Natalia Vodianova, features behind-the-scenes mapped out her agenda for the day. “I’m a shopaholic… strong when they descended upon the Dior store for a special footage in the run-up to the Calvin Klein fashion show, as Roberto is taking me shopping later,” she said. Hilton and preview of the cruise collection. There were some unlikely well as shots of the runway itself and the after party. The Roberto Cavalli are fast becoming best buddies, as he is sightings, too, such as bright-red-suited basketball legend fi lm will air next at the “World of Calvin Klein” press event in designing a luxury penthouse in the new Nicky O hotel in Walt Frazier. “I love fashion,” he remarked, surveying the Shanghai on Nov. 3. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM Viktor & Rolf Walk Down Aisle With H&M

By Miles Socha ot only did Viktor & Rolf say “I do” to a hookup with Hennes & Mauritz, Nthey designed a wedding dress for the occasion. Taking fast fashion down the aisle into a new frontier, the Dutch design wizards created a silk-and-tulle bridal gown that will retail for 298 euros, or $378, when the one-time Viktor & Rolf for H&M collection hits 250 H&M stores on Nov. 9. “We kind of have a fetish for wedding dresses,” confessed Rolf Snoeren who, with Viktor Horsting, designs one of the most conceptual labels in fashion. “You can’t imagine a piece of clothing that is more exclusive or symbolic.” In 2004, the duo famously outfi tted the wedding party for the televised nup- tials of Dutch Prince Johan Friso to Mabel Wisse Smit, the bride in a duchesse satin gown festooned with more than 250 bows and trailing a 10-foot train. Divulging details about their H&M collaboration exclusively to WWD, Snoeren said the collection sprang from the prospect of their short-lived marriage with the Swedish fashion giant, which in the past has engaged Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney as temporary guest designers. “All the women’s clothes have hearts, and all the men’s clothes have ar- rows,” Snoeren said, explaining the love symbols on garments, including a heart-shaped belt buckle, arrows printed on a necktie and prints on jeans. “We really wanted to have a full wardrobe.” Indeed, the collection spans everything from shoes The designers to underwear, with women’s fi tting their sweatshirts priced at 39.90 budget bride. euros, or $51; trenchcoats priced at 99 euros, or $125; details about the TV spots, only saying that he speaks just one line. “I think tuxedo blazers at 79.90 it will be a fun little commercial,” he said. euros, or $101, and jeans at Window displays will echo the marriage theme — with the gown as the 59.90 euros, or $76. Men’s centerpiece. Only 1,000 dresses will be sold, each bearing a number of the items include brogue shoes limited edition and allocated to select locations. “We wanted it to be only at 99 euros, or $125, and a 99 euros,” Snoeren noted, “but of course, that’s not possible.” tuxedo at 149 euros, or $189. Still, the collaboration will bring the V&R sensibility to its widest audi- Advertising to pro- ence yet, fulfi lling a longtime ambition of the designers, who launched their mote the venture, in- fashion label in 1993 with art-based installations and atomic-bomb-inspired cluding a television com- couture, ultimately adding ready-to-wear and fragrances with fragrance mercial and print ads, partner L’Oréal. also conveys the mar- “It’s good to share your vision with a bigger public,” said Snoeren. “What riage theme, with model Viktor and I do is to show that you can be very creative and be very com- Raquel Zimmermann cast mercial at the same time.” as the bride and Snoeren and Horsting as the two grooms. Lensed by Inez Van He described the H&M project as “a fun and light thing” — up to and including the Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, the print campaign shows the trio posed like a fact that “you know there’s a divorce.” wedding-cake topper. V&R and H&M plan to unveil the complete collection at a launch event in Los The advertising blitz — including billboards and Internet elements — is slated Angeles on Oct. 27. In the meantime, the duo is slated to show their signature collec- to run in October and November in 24 international markets. Snoeren was mum on tion on Oct. 2 during Paris Fashion Week.

tion was widely regarded,” Vinge said. France, while they lagged in the diffi cult Like-for-like sales in August grew 5 German and Austrian markets. H&M Profi ts Up 13% in Third Qtr. percent, he said. Despite the lagging German retail Gross margin in the third quarter im- environment, Vinge said H&M would By Robert Murphy “The third quarter developed well,” proved 0.7 basis points to 59.2 percent — expand further in the country by open- said Nils Vinge, H&M’s head of investor the highest ever for H&M in a third quar- ing more stores and introducing on- ast-fashion giant Hennes & Mauritz relations, on a conference call with ana- ter — thanks to lower buying prices in line shopping in Germany and Austria, Fon Wednesday said cheaper sourc- lysts and reporters. Asia and better back-offi ce organization. starting next fall. Last month, H&M ing in Asia and better-than-expected The numbers were the latest indica- Vinge said H&M recently split its buying opened its fi rst online boutique, in the August sales drove third-quarter profits tion that Europe’s fast-fashion players and production offi ces in Asia into sepa- Netherlands, which Vinge said had per- ahead 13 percent. are steaming ahead. Last week, H&M rate entities to generate better effi ciency. formed beyond expectations. The Stockholm-based fi rm said net rival Inditex, which runs the Zara chain, Though Vinge declined to give spe- In the United States, which Vinge income in the three months through reported a 14.6 percent hike in second- cifi cs on H&M’s plans to launch a new said was performing healthily, sales in- August improved to 3.76 billion Swedish quarter profi ts. higher-priced niche brand next year, creased 23 percent to 1.25 billion kro- kronor, or $519.3 million, from 3.32 bil- H&M shares gained 6.85 percent to he said some 10 stores for the concept nor, or $172.6 million. H&M opened nine lion kronor, or $433.6 million, a year close at 312 kronor, or $43.09, in trading would open next spring. He said leases stores in the quarter, bringing its total in ago, beating analysts’ consensus expec- on the Stockholm Stock Exchange. for the chain’s fi rst stores already had America to 105 units. tations. Vinge said sales in August grew 15 been signed in the United Kingdom, H&M plans to open about 80 stores Sales in the period grew 11 percent percent as H&M sold tracksuits that Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands. in the fourth quarter worldwide. Vinge to 16.75 billion kronor, or $2.3 billion, were codesigned by Madonna as part of a He said the chain would “mix basics said most of the new units would be in from 15.15 billion kronor, or $1.98 bil- promotion with the singer and her stage with high fashion” and have stores aver- the United States, France, Canada, the lion, last year. Currency conversions troupe to wear H&M offstage during her aging about 5,000 square feet. United Kingdom and Germany. H&M were made at average exchange rates “Confessions” tour, which ended last By region, sales were solid in most operates more than 1,260 stores around for the respective periods. week in Tokyo. “The Madonna collabora- Nordic countries, Italy, Spain and the world.

partnership with Gucci Group, Ralph Chloé to Pick Marni’s Anderson Toledano promoted Philo, Toledano McCartney’s longtime assistant. During Philo’s maternity Continued from page one tough comparisons and that the has steered the brand in a more leave, and following her resig- fashion firms in Europe. pace for the full year probably sophisticated direction, and it nation, Toledano let the Chloé Despite Philo’s resignation in would be lower than in the fi rst consistently has ranked among team pick up where she left January for personal reasons half. Chloé’s sales more than buyer favorites in Milan. off. And even as he quietly con- — to spend more time with her doubled in 2005. Ralph Toledano, chairman ducted a broad industry search, family and new baby — Chloé The selection of Anderson and chief executive officer of he maintained that an internal has continued to report solid likely is to be greeted as a logical Chloé, has a track record of successor was possible. business, relying on its in-house match for Chloé — and retailers fl ushing out hidden design tal- Toledano also has been rein- design team. and buyers are bound to applaud ents. Before joining Chloé, he forcing Chloé’s design depart- The fashion house’s sales the arrival of new blood. Marni, headed Guy Laroche and fa- ment. Last month, he tapped January 2005, is slated to take increased by nearly 90 per- long a darling of editors and mously recruited Alber Elbaz, Emma Hill, who had been Gap the bows for the brand at its cent in the April to August retailers, is prized for its light- now Lanvin’s creative direc- Inc.’s vice president of acces- Oct. 5 show in Paris, and then period, although Chloé par- hearted and feminine designs tor, from the design studio of sories design, as an accessories he is bowing out of the com- ent Compagnie Financière with a slight retro fl avor. Geoffrey Beene. And when Stella consultant. pany. As reported, he is joining Richemont recently warned In recent seasons, Marni McCartney exited Chloé to form Yvan Mispelaere, a key Frida Giannini’s ready-to-wear that growth was slowing due to designer Consuelo Castiglione a signature fashion house in member of the Chloé team since team at Gucci in Florence. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 11 WWD.COM Paris Designer Preview Ones to Watch Jay Ahr

Here are a few designers creating some buzz in the City of Light. By Emilie Marsh and Katya Foreman

Designer: Jonathan Riss 332 by Koji Label: Jay Ahr History: When pronounced, the name Jay Ahr may have the ring of a certain shady oil magnate from Dallas, but Jonathan Riss, the man behind this up-and-coming French label, hails from much more sophisticated pas- tures. A jewelry-turned-fashion designer whose gowns are crafted in its Paris boutique, Jay Ahr has become a destination for the French fashion set since its store opened in September 2005. Design philosophy: Angora and cashmere or easy jersey T-shirt dresses for day and diaphanous silk mousseline gowns and satin or Lurex minis for night. Showing: Jay Ahr, 2 Rue 29 Juillet, 1st; 33-1-42-96-95-23.

Emperor Moth

Design philosophy: Xie blends traditional Chinese de- tailing, such as whimsical prints and elaborate materi- als, with a touch of European elegance. “Chinese design must be shown at the global level,” he said. “There are many qualified designers who have yet to be recognized outside of China.” What’s in store: For his spring collection, Xie said he was inspired by Chinese- and European-style doors. “It’s the opening toward a new era.” Showing: Jefen shows at 10:30 a.m. at the Carrousel du Louvre, Oct. 1. For further information: 2e Bureau/ Sylvie Grumbach, Adeline Amiel-Donat, 18 Rue Designer: Koji Sato Portefoin, 75003; 33-1-42-33- 93-18. Label: 332 by Koji History: For the last five years, Sato, 30, has worked as an assistant for Michel Klein, pitching in with prints and other tasks. His first job was chez Yves Saint Laurent couture, and he also assisted Martin Margiela at Hermès. When he approached Klein with the project for his own label, Klein proposed to lend a helping hand rather than see his cherished assistant jump ship. They hit on the name 332 by Koji, after the address of Klein’s studio on Paris’ Rue Saint-Honoré. Design philosophy: With a father who was a painter, Sato gravitates to artistic flourishes. But having studied law in his native Japan, he remains grounded in real- ity, meaning wearable silhouettes with mesh and silk details. “This collection is feminine and sporty,” he ex- Designer: Claudia Rosa Lukas plained. “It’s more about daywear.” Label: Claudia Rosa Lukas Next up: Sato’s debut features 15 silhouettes, but he’s History: Vienna-based Lukas likes to infuse poetic, po- already plotting the future: He hopes to be presenting litical and philosophical meaning into her designs. “I’ve on the Paris runway within the next three years. just been re-building my apartment, which had a huge Showing: Michel Klein’s Paris showroom, 332 Rue Saint- effect on my work,” said Lukas, whose spring collec- Honoré, 75001; 33-1-42-60-76-77. tion shifts from architectural pieces in shades of gray through off-white floral dresses. Designer: Katia Gomiashvili Design philosophy: Recovery and deconstruction un- Label: Emperor Moth derline Lukas’ one-off designs, which include multi- History: Formerly known as Mia Shvili, Emperor Moth is layered looks made from recycled sweaters and graph- the new name for quirky Moscow-based designer Katia ic separates cut from viscose jersey, linen, cotton and Gomiashvili’s label. A well-kept secret of the Russian fine knitwear. showbiz set, the label went international in 2005 and Showing: Claudia Rosa Lukas, Galerie Dominique Fiat, was quickly adopted by underground fashion types such 16, Rue Coutures Saint-Gervais, 3rd, Oct. 5-8; 43-6-99-19- as Chloë Sevigny, who starred in the brand’s spring 2006 42-57-34. campaign. Sportswear, swimwear, kid’s wear and sun- glasses are all new for spring 2007. Designer: Frankie Xie Design philosophy: Known for its rainbow-hued embroi- Label: Jefen dered velour tracksuits and T-shirts, offbeat prints are History: Frankie Xie is the first Chinese designer to be the brand’s leitmotiv with variations for spring includ- included in the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. ing helicopters, sunsets, jungle fauna and pearls. He graduated from the University of Zhejiang Sci-Tech Next up: Emperor Moth is set to open its first London- in Hangzhou, China, in 1984. With his diploma in fash- based boutique Oct. 19. ion and textiles in hand, he continued studies in Tokyo Showing: Jean Demavenssy showroom, 14 Rue before assisting designer Mistuhiro Mazda for Nicole Castiglione, 1st; Tel.: 33-1-42-96-32-80; and at Tranoi, Co., a Japanese apparel firm. In 2000, Xie launched Palais de la Bourse, Place de la Bourse, 2nd; 33-1-53- Jefen, a women’s ready-to-wear line, in Beijing. Today, Jefen 01-84-96. the brand counts about 20 stores in China. THIERRY CHOMEL AND JEFEN PHOTOS BY KOJI 332 BY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 ParisParis Designer Preview Scene

YOUNG BLOOD: He’s yet to graduate from Brussels’ La Cambre fashion Hot things to do and see, school, but designer Matthieu Blazy, 22, already is getting attention. and places to eat and relax In the spring, he won the Diesel-sponsored ITS fashion competition while in town for the in Trieste, Italy, and during the Paris collections, retailer Maria Luisa Poumaillou will feature his work in the windows of her store. Blazy has collections. yet to fi nd a manufacturer, and the pieces chez Maria Luisa will be available on a made-to-measure basis. After all, he is still wrapping up an internship at John Galliano. AFTER DARK: Some 550 of Brassaï’s legendary Earlier this year, he did time at Balenciaga. Blazy said his collection photos of Paris are going under the hammer at was inspired by “scientifi c techniques for analyzing natural phenomena.” Drouot on Oct. 2 and 3, with estimates running That translates into graphic coats and dresses with geometric decoration. from about 200 euros, or $250 at current “I’d like to really strike out on my own as soon as I graduate,” he added. exchange, to 80,000 euros, or $100,000. The sale will be preceded by an exhibition of the OLE OLE: A crop of young Catalonian designers is out to prove that Spanish most important ensemble of Brassaï works ever fashion goes much further than castanets and boleros. Showroom Barcelona, exhibited, including rarely seen sculptures, a 5,000-square-foot trade fair curated by Vincenç Mustaròs and running drawings and even tapestry. It runs today through Oct. 3 to 8, will host 12 Barcelona-based newcomers. Participants include Oct. 1 at Drouot Montaigne at 15 Avenue José Castro, ex-assistant to Alexander McQueen; Josep Abril; Avant; Lucía Montaigne. The 750 lots are from the estate of Blanco; Boba par Giménez et Zuazo; Juan Pedro Lopez; Mariana Méndez; the photographer’s widow, Gilberte, who died last Oscarleon; Txell Miras; Parnasse; Miriam Ponsa, and Cecilia Sörensen. A A look by year. The most eagerly sought photos are bound lunch for the event will be held Oct. 3 with all designers present. Matthieu to be his nighttime series of rain-licked paving Showroom Barcelona: Galerie Nikki Diana Marquard, 9 Place des Vosges, A photo by Brassaï. Blazy.

stones, bars and brothels. 4th; 33-1-49-23-79-79. THIERRY CHOMEL PHOTO BY

FOOD WITH FEELING: The name may ring corny in HEY MR. DJ: Karl Lagerfeld is set to wax lyrical English, but culinary maestro Guy Martin’s new on a few of his favorite things. “Les Musiques bistro — called Sensing — is one of the hot tables que J’aime,” or “My Favorite Songs,” is a double in Paris this fall. Martin, who runs the haute cuisine album set for release Oct. 2. In collaboration with

PHOTO BY ELIOR PHOTO BY temple Le Grand Vefour, tapped interior designers Paris Vogue, it contains 23 tracks selected by Jerome Faillant Dumas, known in the industry for Lagerfeld for work and for play. his fragrance packaging, and Hubert de Malherbes Karl’s faves run from Devendra Banhart to to give the eatery a modern spin, with an alabaster bubble-gum British pop trio The Pipettes, as well bar and video projections on stark white walls. But as airs by Igor Stravinsky, the designer’s favorite it’s what is in the plate that matters. With young chef composer. A cocktail launch will take place Oct. Remi Van Peteghem working the kitchen, Martin is 6 at the VIP room, where guests will get to boogie pleasing picky connoisseurs with the likes of tuna on down. Sensing stuffed with foie gras and veal in a crust of herbs. Sensing, 19 Rue Brea; 33-1-43-27-08-80.

SHADOW DINING: Perhaps the best way to visit architect Jean Nouvel’s groovy new primitive KARL LAGERFELD PHOTO BY art museum at the Quai Branly is to grab a bite at its rooftop restaurant, Les Ombres, with its The “Les Musiques que J’aime” album cover. spectacular panoramic view. Like the museum, the menu evokes various world cultures, with favorites such as Angus beef with Chinese truffl es or Colombian coffee with sponge cake and WOOLY MATTER: The Pompidou museum will hold nougat with Arabic ice cream. an exhibition conceived by Benetton’s Fabrica, Across town, the sixth-fl oor eatery under the Art Deco dome of the Printemps department the fi rm’s creative think tank, dubbed “Les Yeux store has been revamped with a lively brasserie by decorator Didier Gomez. More serious foodies Ouverts,” or “Open Eyes,” Oct. 6 to Nov. 6. It will PHOTO BY ALESSANDRO RUSSOTTIPHOTO BY are heading to see Michel del Burgo — the former Taillevent chef — who has opened an eatery showcase works in graphic art, cinema, industrial on the romantic Ile Saint Louis. Standouts include creamy crepes raviolis in a mushroom design, music, publishing and photography. emulsion and red mullet served with cooked onions, dried tomatoes and a sprinkle of dried Meanwhile, the Italian clothing manufacturer also almonds. Note to sweet tooths: The chocolate fondant is to die for. will celebrate its 40th anniversary this year at the Les Ombres, 27 Quai Branly, 75007; 33-1-47-53-68-00. Pompidou with an exhibition on Oct. 10 as well “We Are the Time. We Are the Famous,” L’Orangerie Michel del Burgo, 28 Rue Saint Louis en l’Ile, 75004; 33-1-46-33-93-98. as a fashion show revolving around the theme of by Hans Raber/Fabrica. Brasserie Printemps, 66 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009; 33-1-42-82-58-84. wool, which will support the World Food Program.

ART SHOWING: Paris is doing its best this fall live up to its reputation as a cultural beacon. Les Ombres Famous for his blue, Yves Klein is getting the retrospective treatment at the Pompidou Center in a show featuring about 160 paintings, sculptures and sketches, which is sponsored by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. A Robert Rauschenberg exhibition opens at the Pompidou on Oct. 11. Meanwhile, photographer Lee Friedlander is getting a major showing at the Jeu de Paume through Oct. 7, and the Musée du Luxembourg has been drawing crowds for its exhibition of Renaissance master Titien. On the gallery front, the Almine Rech Gallery, in its new location in the Marais, will present works by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone in a show called “On Butterfl y Wings.” And last but not least, Colette will exhibit a series of images from “Individuals: Portraits From the Gap Collection,” the book of photographs — taken by Annie Leibovitz, Peter Lindbergh, Herb Ritts and Steven Meisel, among others — of fashion icons such as Madonna, Karl Lagerfeld and Isabelle Adjani, all of whom posed for the sportswear brand.

“Anthropométrie de l’epogue bleue, 1960,” by Yves Klein.

SPA SCENE: Fatigued by the front row? Paris has just the remedy. Parisians Eric and Isabelle Coiho Bah’s recently opened 2,368-square-foot Maxam spa offers a plethora of treatments, including a muscle-melting four-hour massage that encompasses techniques from India, ALL WHITE NOW: Paris’ fi fth edition of the Nuit Blanche (or White Night) festival will take place Thailand, China, Japan and Korea. Nuad Borarn, a three-hour Thai massage, is so hands- on Oct. 7. From 7 p.m. until 7 a.m., a long list of contemporary artists from various backgrounds on, masseuses use elbows, knees and feet to work out those stress knots. Massages start at are invited to display their creations in different quarters of the City of Light. This year, James 50 euros, or $64, for 30 minutes. Tucked away on a quiet street near the Pompidou Center, Turell, Sébastien Tellier and Xavier Veilhan are among the most awaited. Another highlight: The Comfort Zone houses two hammams and fi ve treatment rooms of more than 3,678 square feet. A Place de la Concorde will be illuminated in Yves Klein blue. Meanwhile, at Versailles, several spectacular glass ceiling makes seventh heaven all the more accessible. artists have been tapped to dress up the chateau. Fragrance nose Francis Kurkdjian, for example, Maxam, 34 bis Rue Vignon, 75009; 33-8-20-82-06-18. Open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday to Saturday. will perfume the fountains with orange essentials oil, while Christian Lacroix will display couture Comfort Zone, 49 Rue Quincampoix, 75004; 33-1-56-33-98-30. Open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., gowns in the Royal chapel. Tuesday and Wednesday; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday to Saturday, and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 13 WWD.COM

Balmain Rebuilds couple of months after his debut last March at the dusty Ahouse of Balmain, designer Christophe Decarnin, formerly with Paco Rabanne, got the kind of help that is vital in fashion’s celebrity-centric culture. Audrey Tautou sashayed down the Cannes red carpet in one of his audacious, thigh-skimming dresses, giving Balmain serious media play around the world. The icing on the cake came later that same week when Sofi a Coppola wore another of Decarnin’s Balmain confections, also at Cannes. But buzz alone does not a fashion house make. And Decarnin knows that to position Balmain as a modern player will not be easy. After all, the house’s image plunged deep into A look from Decarnin’s fashion’s hinterlands after Oscar de la Renta stopped doing its upcoming collection. couture. The list of designers that followed all failed to rally the house. And there was even speculation in Paris that the once-illustrious house would close. “I know there’s a lot to be done,” said Decarnin, 40. “Balmain had very little image when I arrived. I liked that situation. It allows me to do what I want. I have a blank slate.” Colette in Paris was the only store to buy Decarnin’s debut line, but the designer said several American stores already have appointments to view the collection. The soft-spoken Decarnin described the style he wants to cultivate at the house as a mélange of couture savoir faire and grittier rock ’n’ roll glamour. Comfort Zone

PHOTO BY JEAN QUELQUEJEU PHOTO BY So far, that has translated into ornate embroidery, gauzy T-shirts and short dresses. “I like short dresses,” he said. “They’ve got the energy of a modern girl: She goes out WINGING VICTORY: Pots of candy fl oss, squishy marshmallows and stiletto-shaped cookies iced to dinner, goes dancing, hops on the back of a motorcycle. She can move in the dress.” with polkadots are a taste of the girly goodies selected by Victoire de Castellane — Dior’s kooky Added Decarnin, who will attack the vital accessories category next: “We want to be a fi ne jewelry guru — for her eponymous exhibition at Le Bon Marché through Oct. 14. In her brand that matters. Balmain remains a magical name to me.” playful style, drawers slide out to reveal what — Robert Murphy makes de Castellane tick, whether it be musicals such as “Hello Dolly,” “Moulin Rouge” and “Cabaret,” or more brainy stuff such as the works of Sigmund Freud. (Try to fi gure out the psychology A dress from of that mix.) Visitors also get to peek into the Wunderkind. designer’s creative process, from her felt-tip doodles through to the real blinged-out McCoy. And Wunderkind Returns on a more intimate note, one drawer’s scrapbook appy to be fashionably late, Wolfgang Joop is gearing up reveals snaps of de Castellane as a chubby-faced Hfor his fi rst Wunderkind show in Paris on Sunday after toddler, while another holds numerous illustrations four seasons on the New York runway. by Karl Lagerfeld dedicated to de Castellane during “Logistically, we’ve won two weeks, which helps so much,” her time at Chanel. A cocktail will be held for the the designer said in his Potsdam, Germany, headquarters. event on Oct. 4. “We can now target the right stores and the right markets, A photo of the de Castellane exhibition. Le Bon Marché, 24 Rue de Sèvres, 7th. and many more [international] retailers are coming to Paris.” The Paris move accompanies signifi cant changes in THAT’S A-MORI: The so-called Japanese Wunderkind’s business structure. New commercial commitments Butterfl y, Hanae Mori, was the fi rst foreign Butterfl y include opening a year-round showroom and sales headquarters designer to be admitted to Paris’ haute dress by on Via Verri in Milan, as well as a London offi ce; installing an couture club, in 1977. After three decades Hanae Mori, international sales team; working on a freestanding store in Berlin INGE PRADE PHOTO BY of creating for her faithful clientele, she 1995. due to open in mid-November; negotiations for Wunderkind bid the couture sayonara in 2004. Now an eyeglasses and fi ne jewelry, and plans for a Wunderkind men’s wear collection next summer. exhibition, opening Oct. 6 at the Maison Whereas New York was like a second home for Joop, “with Paris, everything is new. l’Amérique Latine on the Boulevard Saint Everything is important, with no compromises. We’re emptying our brains, our hearts and Germain, is celebrating her long career. our pockets,” the designer said with a laugh. Dubbed “Encounter Between the Orient The spring Wunderkind collection has a purposely faded touch, using a new Solaris and the Occident,” the show boasts 60 of technique à la Man Ray that partially bleaches parts of the garments. The heavy the Japanese couturiere’s designs as well Richelieu laces were designed in-house, as were the fl oral wallpaper and sofa prints. as dance and theater costumes she created And the faded gold of Frederick the Great’s Potsdam summer palace, Sanssouci, burnishes over the years. the gold-leafed shoes as well as the collection’s gold-plated zippers, eyelets and buttons. Joop said he continues to “believe in dresses. There’s a new idea of a summer coat SCENT-SATIONAL: Visitors to the warren- that’s close to a dress. like Marais neighborhood need only follow “My concept is not to show too much of a concept. It’s all about spirit,” he continued. “I want their noses to fi nd funky fragrance store to see heart blood, and that’s what people are missing. They don’t want so much calculation.” Etat Libre d’Orange. Outside, the boutique — Melissa Drier fountains dispense the brand’s scents — some with risqué names like Putain des Palaces, or Hotel Whore. Founder Etienne de Swardt says he likes to ruffl e a few feathers. Inside, black walls and furniture and glass-beaded curtains provide Burrows Goes Tropical a contemporary Baroque-style background

to the brand’s collection of nine fragrances HIROSHI YODA PHOTO BY tephen Burrows is bringing a blast of Caribbean color to and three candles. Eau de parfums range in Sthe Paris runway. price from 27 euros, or $34, to 59 euros, or $75. The American designer, showing in France for the fi rst Etat Libre d’Orange: 69 Rue des Archives, 75003; 33-1-42-78-30-09. Open noon to 7:30 p.m., time in more than three decades, hopes the showcase will Tuesday to Saturday, and by appointment. boost his business in Europe and the Middle East — and extend his fashion reach into fast-growing markets like Etat Libre d’Orange SOAPED UP: Artisanal Russia and Asia. soaps imbibed with “Every designer wants to show in Paris, and Stephen has ground vanilla, tomato always had a special place in his heart for the city,” said leaves, clay and John Robert Miller, managing director of Burrows’ New York- cucumber are a sample based company. Burrows, who famously showed at the 1973

of the mouthwatering French-American fashion extravaganza at the Château de THIERRY CHOMEL PHOTO BY bathroom wares on Versailles, relaunched his brand in 2002 after more than a Stephen Burrows’ offer at Le Savon decade away from the fray. bright gown. Nous, a new pint- But he has stuck to his guns — matte jersey in fi gure- sized boutique in the skimming shapes, lettuce edging and vivid color blocking — even as prices for his Marais. Sweet tooths vintage Seventies pieces creep up into the thousands of dollars. might be distracted by His signature collection, retailing from about $400 to $1,900, sells to about a dozen the store’s chocolate, specialty stores, including Shop 2410 in La Jolla, Calif., Beatrice in Zurich and Evenings raisin-bread and in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. Miller said the Burrows business is still small, under $1 million candy-fl oss-scented at wholesale, but growing steadily on many fronts. candles, while vibrant In February, his S by Burrows diffusion line will make its debut on the Home egg-shaped soaps in Shopping Network in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. And an online shop — akin to a cardboard boxes make sample sale — is slated to go live on eBay in mid-October. Miller said all the visibility is for a fun affair. Le bringing a lot more projects to Burrows — perhaps too many: The designer was recently Savon Nous, 5 Rue approached to do costumes for a Broadway show and wonders if he has the time. d’Ormesson, 4th; 33-1- — Miles Socha 42-74-20-33. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 ParisShow Designer Preview Calendar

Following is the spring 2007 ready-to-wear collections schedule, running Oct. 1-8. Information is accurate as of press time, but attendees are encouraged to confi rm times and locations.

Sunday, Oct. 1 4:30 p.m.: Comme des Garçons, see invitation 10:30 a.m.: Jefen, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel 5:30 p.m.: Gaspard Yurkievich, Pavillon Gabriel, 5 Avenue Gabriel, 8th 11:30 a.m.: Sakina M’Sa, see invitation 6:30 p.m.: Undercover, Hôtel Westin, 3 Rue de Castiglione, 1st 12:30 p.m.: Wunderkind, Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadéro, 16th 7:30 p.m.: AF Vandervorst, Musée Galliera, 10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 16th 2:30 p.m.: Mina Perhonen, Kvadrat, 19 Rue des Saints-Pères, 6th 8:30 p.m.: Yohji Yamamoto, Grand Amphithéâtre de la Sorbonne, 45/47 Rue des 3:30 p.m.: Balmain, Hôtel Westin, 3 Rue de Castiglione, 1st Ecoles, 6th 4:30 p.m.: Lie Sang Bong, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel 5:30 p.m.: Dice Kayek, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot Tuesday, Oct. 3 6:30 p.m.: Rick Owens Jardins du Palais Royal, entrance Place Colette, 130/133 9:30 a.m.: Balenciaga, see invitation Galerie de Valois, 1st 10:30 a.m.: Jean-Louis Scherrer, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot 7:30 p.m.: Maison Martin Margiela Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 11:30 a.m.: Vivienne Westwood, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme Rue Bonaparte, 6th 12:30 p.m.: Marithé & François Girbaud, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 8:30 p.m.: Toga Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 12:45 p.m.: Tao mini show Quai Malaquais, 6th 1:30 p.m.: Lutz, BETC EURO RSCG, Passage du Désir, 85/87 Rue du Faubourg 9 p.m.: Christophe Guillarmé, Le Bristol, 112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8th Saint-Martin, 10th 9:30 p.m.: ES Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, Chapelle des Petits- 2:30 p.m.: Jean Paul Gaultier, 325 Rue Saint-Martin, 3rd Augustins, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 3:30 p.m.: Issey Miyake by Naoki Takizawa, Musée de l’Homme, 17 place du Trocadéro, 16th Monday, Oct. 2 3:30 p.m.: Latulle, Espace Commines, 17 Rue Commines, 3rd 9:30 a.m.: Junya Watanabe, see invitation 4:30 p.m.: Ann Demeulemeester, Ateliers Berthier de l’Opera, 32 Boulevard Berthier, 17th 10:30 a.m.: Atsuro Tayama, L’Académie, 14 Rue Royale, 8th 5:30 p.m.: Costume National, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle 11:30 a.m.: Alena Akhmadullina, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th 12:30 p.m.: Cher Michel Klein, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot 7 p.m.: Christian Dior, Grand Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, 8th 1:30 p.m.: Viktor & Rolf, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme 8:30 p.m.: Stella Cadente, Aquarium du Trocadéro, 2 Avenue des Etats-Unis, 16th 2:30 p.m.: Talbot Runhof, Pavillon Gabriel, 5 Avenue Gabriel, 8th 9:30 p.m.: Bless, 14 Rue Portefoin, 3rd 2:30 p.m.: Sharon Wauchob, La Sorbonne, 45 Rue des Ecoles, 5th 3 p.m.: Marshall Leigh, Le Studio, 36 Rue du Fer à Moulin, 5th Wednesday, Oct. 4 3:30 p.m.: Isabel Marant, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st 9:30 a.m.: Karl Lagerfeld, La Sorbonne, 47 Rue des Ecoles, 5th 10:30 a.m.: Sophia Kokosalaki, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot 11:30 a.m.: Akris, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme 12:30 p.m.: Valentino, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 1:30 p.m.: Andrew Gn, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel 2:30 p.m.: Dries Van Noten, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 3 p.m.: Ekjo, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 3:30 p.m.: Agnes B., L’Olympia, 28 Boulevard des Capucines, 9th 4:30 p.m.: Loewe, Musée de l’Homme, 17 place du Trocadéro, 16th 6 p.m.: Hussein Chalayan, Palais Omnisport de Paris Bercy, Salle Marcel Cerdan — 8 Boulevard de Bercy, 12th 6:30 p.m.: Stéphane Mahéas Couture, Mairie du 8ème arrondissement, 3 Rue de Lisbonne, 8th 7 p.m.: Véronique Branquino, See invitation 7:30 p.m.: Luis Buchinho, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th 8:30 p.m.: Givenchy, Tennis Club de Paris, 84 Avenue George Laffont, 16th

Thursday, Oct. 5 10 a.m.: Stella McCartney, see invitation 10:30 a.m.: Mahéas Paris, Mairie du 8ème arrondissement, 3 Rue de Lisbonne, 8th 11 a.m.: Leonard, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme Noon: Cacharel, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 1 p.m.: Tsumori Chisato, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot 1:15 p.m.: Pedro Waterland, Musée Galliera, 10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 16th 2 p.m.: Emanuel Ungaro, see invitation 3 p.m.: Golem, Les Voûtes de Paris, 10 Rue Servandoni, 6th 3:30 p.m.: Zucca, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 4:30 p.m.: Celine, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st 5:30 p.m.: Christian Wijnants, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 7 p.m.: Fatima Lopes, Musée Galliera, 10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 16th 6:30 p.m.: Véronique Leroy, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th 8 p.m.: Yves Saint Laurent, Grand Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, 8th 9:30 p.m.: Jasmine di Milo, Villa Windsor, 4 route du Champs d’Entrainement, Bois de Boulogne, 16th

Friday, Oct. 6 9:30 a.m.: Hiromichi Nakano, Carré des Champs-Elysées, Pavillon Ledoyen, 1 Avenue Dutuit, 8th 10:30 a.m.: Chanel, Grand Palais, Avenue du Général Eisenhower, 8th 11:30 a.m.: Joseph Font, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 15 WWD.COM The entrance to the show halls at the Louvre.

12:30 p.m.: Giambattista Valli, Musée de l’Homme, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th 12:30 p.m.: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme 1:30 p.m.: Haider Ackermann, La Sorbonne, 45 Rue des Ecoles, 5th 2:30 p.m.: Sonia Rykiel, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st 3:30 p.m.: Junko Shimada, Hôtel Westin, 3 Rue de Castiglione, 1st 4:30 p.m.: Christian Lacroix, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 5:30 p.m.: Gilles Rosier, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th 6:30 p.m.: Nicolas Andreas taralis, see invitation 8 p.m.: Alexander McQueen, Cirque d’Hiver, 110 Rue Amalot, 11th

Saturday, Oct. 7 10 a.m.: Antonio Berardi, Musée de l’Homme, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th 11 a.m.: Guy Laroche, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme Noon: Chapurin, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot 1 p.m.: Kenzo, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 2 p.m.: Yoichi Nagasawa, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel 3 p.m.: Chloé, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st 3 p.m.: Shu Moriyama, 4 Rue Hérold, 1st 4 p.m.: Martin Grant, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th 5:30 p.m.: Hermès, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, Cour Vitrée, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 6:30 p.m.: Barbara Bui, Musée de l’Homme, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th 8 p.m.: John Galliano, Carreau du Temple, Rue Dupetit-Thouars, 3rd

Sunday, Oct. 8 10:30 a.m.: Yuki Torii, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel 11:30 a.m.: Elie Saab, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme 12:30 p.m.: Stephen Burrows, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot 3 p.m.: Louis Vuitton, Petit Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, 8th 4:30 p.m.: Fukuko Ando, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th 5:30 p.m.: Lanvin, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 6:30 p.m.: Moon Young Hee, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, Chapelle des Petits-Augustins, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 7 p.m.: Katia Berezkina, Salons Hoche, 9 Avenue Hoche, 8th 7:30 p.m.: Miu Miu, see invitation 16 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM Denim Report Premium Influence: Lost in Translation

By Ross Tucker Dark washes, for instance, present the least resistance in terms of consumer nnovations in premium denim — from acceptance. Ilow-rise and over-embellished styles to “We’re getting pounded by magazines whiskering and abrasions — have been eas- with celebrities wearing dark skinny ily adapted across the broader denim spec- jeans,” Silver said. “The palatable side trum, helping to propel booming sales over will be the dark style through the next six the last five to seven years. to eight months that can translate…that’s This fall, however, premium players con- real and will have an effect on the mass centrated on skinny cuts and dark washes, [market].” trends less accessible and more diffi cult to Skinny cuts have “died on the vine” out- translate to the masses. These factors, com- side of the premium segment, said Silver, bined with a saturated market, might ex- who believes the celebrity media focus plain tempered sales. With looks from this on skinny styles will have some degree of season’s New York runway shows empha- measurable impact. sizing high waists and suspenders, the pre- “The wider bottoms are narrowing up,” mium tier’s power to energize the overall Silver said. “Will it ultimately result in nar- denim world might be waning. row skinny jeans being worn by the mass- The denim market remains potent, but es? I don’t think so. I think they’ll get to a the double-digit growth rates that made the straight leg and that’s where it will stop.” segment so appealing to hundreds of brands The trend toward high waists is the most have disappeared. Sales of women’s jeans in interesting for Silver. In much the same the U.S. this year reached a total of $4.32 bil- way that skinny cuts in premium will trans- lion through Aug. 31, a 1 percent decline from late into straight-leg styles for the larger the $4.37 billion reported during the same pe- denim market, Silver feels high waists will riod last year, according to NPD Group, the allow manufacturers to get away from low consumer and retail information company. rises. Perhaps more importantly, he be- The department store channel was the lieves it will give manufacturers a chance most challenging. Sales of women’s jeans to win back a portion of the market that at department stores fell 12.1 percent to Clockwise from top left: Two looks from Miss Sixty, Grey Ant and Diesel, all from New York Fashion Week. hasn’t been addressed for several years. $671.6 million for the year through Aug. 31 “I have a feeling that [the high-rise jean] from $764.1 million last year, NPD Group is going to be a relief for some denim mak- said. Specialty stores and online sales were ers,” he said. “They can raise rises and get the strongest, rising 5.9 percent and 13 per- back to a certain customer that they had cent, respectively. In comparison, sales of alienated. I think in the mainstream mar- women’s sportswear — including denim — in ket you’re not going to see superhigh rise, department stores for the same period fell 4 buy you’ll see some incremental rises.” percent to $9.32 billion from $9.7 billion. Denim buyers and retailers have been Skinny styles presented a challenge hunting for the next trend direction for sev- largely because of concerns over fi t, said eral months, according Brian Hogan, presi- Scott Reffsin, vice president of sales and dent of Modamood, the New York-based marketing for LTB by Littlebig. As a result, wholesale distributor for Replay jeans. the trend took longer to catch on. The high waist is the result of “trouser- “We brought in a couple of fi ts with skinny infl uenced silhouettes being introduced legs and high waists in the late summer last in the denim world,” said Hogan, who be- year,” said Reffsin, adding that those styles lieves the impact will be similar to that of “sat dormant” for the last fi ve months. “We the skinny jean. “The skinny was new and were either early or people didn’t expect fresh, but it’s not for everybody. I think them from LTB.” now we’re going to see the same thing with In the last two weeks, however, Reffsin the high waist. Its fresh and new, but is it said those same styles have started to sell as going to retail?” women have seen more people wearing skin- The challenge for denim brands oper- ny jeans. They’ve also become more confi dent ating at any price level will be how best to that the look will be available in their size. adapt the runway looks to their customer, “Initially, they were shy because they were said Jennifer Wade, brand manager for worried about fi tting into it,” Reffsin said. the Lee Authentics brand. Details such “I think the woman is realizing that, even as washes, embellishments and abrasions though she’s not a size 26 or 27, she can fi nd are easier to emulate, Wade noted. It also

her size. At least she can wear it, she can put THOMAS IANNACCONE GIANNONI; GREY ANT BY GIOVANNI MISS SIXTY AND DIESEL PHOTOS BY takes mass market manufacturers longer a skinny jean on and put it on in her size.” to adapt runway styles to their customers, The rising demand has forced a shift in LTB’s product assortment from its tradi- but Wade said they always do, eventually. tionally heavy focus on boot cuts and fl ares. Reffsin said the product range at one “Things that are diffi cult to wear outside of that model body are not going to hit point was around 90 percent boot cuts, with only one straight-leg style. The brand has the masses in a typical way, but it will be there,” said Wade. “The Lee U.S. brand will shifted to 30 percent skinny styles and 70 percent boot cuts, as well as launching a tweak it to fi t our customer. We’ll raise a rise here and there, we’ll bring in a boot cut. high-waist style and a capri at the Project trade show last month. It’s not like you won’t see a skinny at Kohl’s or J.C. Penney.” “Will it be a focus or a substantial part of the larger denim industry?” Reffsin said. “I Wade said the Lee mass business has been booming and that drastic denim styles don’t think so, because even for us, it will be minimal. But we are getting calls on it.” in the premium segment, such as a skinny or a high waist, actually spur sales. Michael Silver, president and founder of Silver Jeans, who participates in the pre- “The women that shop our tier gravitate to what works for them in times like this,” mium segment with his 1921 label, views dark washes, skinny cuts and high waists Wade said. “They know they can’t pull off a superhigh waist or suspenders, so they’ll as three distinct trends that must be looked at independently in order to gauge their stick with what they know. Part of it is that things have gotten so trendy that people potential impact on the overall market. are terrifi ed.”

The outlook for cotton supply and use by the Washington-based ICAC, a forum of 40 countries in- volved in the production, trade and consumption of Cotton Consumption to Rise 3 Percent cotton, including the U.S., projects end-use cotton con- sumption worldwide will increase by 3.2 percent in By John Zarocostas It estimates Chinese mill consumption will expand by 2006 and by 2 percent in 2007. a further 600,000 tons in 2006-2007, to 10.5 million tons. In 2005, end-use consumption per capita advanced GENEVA — Competitive prices for cotton, robust eco- Meanwhile, a top official at China National 6 percent to a record 3.77 kilograms and surpassed the nomic growth, notably in China, and greater availabil- Reserves Corp. said China’s demand this year will previous record of 3.65 kilograms posted in 1987. ity of cotton products should contribute to world cotton reach 10.6 million tons and output will total 6 million On global supply, the ICAC report expects produc- mill consumption expanding by 3 percent from Aug. tons, according to a report by the Xinhua news ser- tion to remain stable in 2006-2007 at about 25 million 1, 2006 to July 31, 2007, a report by the International vice. tons. World cotton imports are also forecast to remain Cotton Advisory Committee projects. Last year, worldwide end-use consumption of cotton stable at around 9.7 million tons, with China alone ac- Much of the increase is driven by the surge in mill increased by 7.8 percent to 24.3 million tons and cotton counting for more than 4 million tons. The U.S. is ex- consumption in China, which in the 12 months ended products accounted for 86 percent of global consump- pected to retain its spot as the world’s biggest cotton this past July 31 rose by 1.6 million tons to reach 9.9 tion of fi ber products, compared with 14 percent for exporter with a 37 percent share. million tons. wool, and cellulosic and non-cellulosic products, the The result, the report predicts, will see global cot- “The Chinese expansion in textile processing is the ICAC report said. An 11 percent drop in cotton prices ton stocks, which in 2005-2006 contracted by 300,000 result of an aggressive increase in textile exports to last year also helped to increase cotton consumption, tons, decline by a further 800,000 tons in 2006-2007. In the rest of the world, including industrial and develop- as did the removal of global quotas for international 2004-2005, record production saw global cotton stocks ing countries,” the report said. trade in textiles and apparel. of 11 million tons, the highest in two decades. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 17 WWD.COM The Beat Davies designs all of her own prints, which are graphic and structured. Kidrobot Toys With Fashion

TOY MAKER KIDROBOT IS PLAYING IN apparel. The company, known for its limited-edition art toys, has launched a line of T-shirts, hooded sweatshirts, polos and accessories that will hit Kidrobot stores today, coinciding with the reopening of its renovated SoHo location. Barneys New York will start to carry the line in November. The clothes also are available at kidrobot.com. “Kidrobot has evolved into a lifestyle for people,” a company spokeswoman said. “Everyone from fi ve-year-olds to soccer moms to 65-year-old art collectors love the toys. The clothing is just a natural progression for us. It can easily transfer to clothing.” Founded in 2002, New York-based Kidrobot has turned vinyl toys into not only Erica Davies’ New art, but also a multimillion-dollar business that has doubled its sales every year since it began, according to the company. Kidrobot had revenues of $5.6 million last year and expects to generate $12 million this year. Development The fi rm declined to provide apparel sales projections. The company collaborates with artists such as French graffi ti artist Tilt, musicians such as the Gorillaz and fashion designers, By Julee Greenberg orate details, mixing the structures of architectural designs from Karl Lagerfeld to Heatherette, to create with femininity. There are both long gowns and shorter cock- limited-edition characters. number of developments are in the works for Erica tail styles. All prints, which Davies said are nontraditional, Both of those qualities — the collabor- ADavies. bold graphic patterns, are designed by Davies herself. ative spirit and the exclusive nature — have The design director at Los Angeles-based contemporary “Prints are sort of the center of the line. I want the cus- put the toys in hot demand, and they will brand Development since spring 2006 has entered into a tomer to be able to identify the designer by the print,” she ex- be applied to the clothing line. For limited- partnership with Development Clothing’s founding part- plained. “But these aren’t fl owery little prints; they are more edition hooded sweatshirts, which wholesale ners, Andrew Crane and Stuart Gaddis. In the new deal, the structured and angular.” for $70, as compared with $45 for traditional name of the clothing line will change from Development to For spring, Davies said she was infl uenced by Man Ray’s sweatshirts, Kidrobot only will produce 228 Development by Erica Davies. In addition, Davies will launch art and photography of the Sixties, using his composition of pieces in each design for men and 96 pieces her own dress line, Erica Davies Collection, which will be “line, light and odd sense of femininity.” She was also inspired for women. manufactured by Development Clothing. That line, which was by her own travels and by musician Carly Simon. “Barneys wanted to buy 120, but we only tested in stores for fall 2006, will unveil a full collection for Davies said the next step would be to fi nd a licensing part- made 96,” the spokeswoman said. “Originally, spring selling. ner to develop shoes and accessories collections. All of these we didn’t want to sell anywhere but Kidrobot “The whole idea is to have a full Erica Davies lifestyle,” moves are key to the growth of the brand, which had a few stores, but Barneys was adamant. You can’t said Davies, who joined Development after spending years in tough seasons after founding designer Phillip Lim left in complain when Barneys is adamant about design positions at Marc Jacobs, Max Mara and Richard Tyler. December 2004. placing your product.” “The Erica Davies dress line is that special occasion compo- “Development has really worked its way back and is doing Paul Smith has designed eight versions of nent, which the Development customer can’t really fi nd in the very well now,” Davies said. “It’s so nice to work somewhere a limited-edition T-shirt that will be carried Development line, since it’s more casual. The dresses will be like this where you can really turn a brand around.” exclusively in his stores and come with a for that same customer.” As for the Erica Davies Collection, the designer said she specially designed Paul Smith-Kidrobot toy. The line consists of a variety of dresses in printed silk expects to reach $1 million in wholesale volume by the end Some of the clothing will feature toys from chiffons, silk satins, silk jerseys and silk and cotton voiles. of this year. The line has been picked up by a number of high- the Kidrobot collection, but the apparel line Wholesaling from $360 to $610, each piece incorporates elab- end specialty boutiques, including Scoop and Fred Segal. also will introduce its own cast of characters. One set of T-shirts features the newly conceived “Zoomies” — furry animals that like to drive Stacey around fast, a story that is explained in a comic Bendet in book on the garment’s hangtag. Alice + Olivia Takes Manhattan her new The line will launch with T-shirts, store. wholesaling for $12 to $15; patterned NEW YORK — With stores in Los Angeles and East Hampton, N.Y., Stacey hooded sweatshirts; polos, and accessories. Bendet, co-owner and designer of the contemporary brand Alice + Olivia, is Men’s track jackets will be added for holiday, opening her third and largest unit at 80 West 40th Street here on Monday. followed by women’s for spring. Outerwear Bendet said she picked the location for a few reasons: The company’s will be added for holiday. showroom is on the second fl oor of the building, and the 1,800-square-foot Longer term, there are talks of collaborative space was large enough for a fl agship. In addition, the store is directly across denim, knits that mix argyle with toy graphics, from Bryant Park, and with fl oor-to-ceiling glass windows in the front, the and even adult footed pajamas. customer can feel like she’s shopping in the park. — Whitney Beckett “It’s such a beautiful and relaxing environment, and there really isn’t anything like us in this area,” said Bendet, who is planning a grand-opening party for Oct. 12. “It’s funny because this is such a fashionable part of town, Kidrobot’s limited- with so many fashion people working around here. Now they will have a edition hoodie. great place to shop on their lunch breaks.”

Bendet, who is a partner in the company with Theory president Andrew CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY Rosen, said there also will be limited-edition pieces sold only in the store. This will begin with a line of eveningwear launching in late December called Stacey Bendet for Alice + Olivia. The store will offer a large selection of pants, for which Alice + Olivia has become known since its launch in 2002. There also will be key items from the fall-winter collection of the relaunched Eighties ski label, CB Sports, which Bendet designed. Merchandise will retail from $88 for a pair of leggings to $980 for a shearling coat. The store’s base colors are black and white, with black-and-white tile fl oors and white walls. In each of the other stores, pink is the pop color. Here, it’s yellow, with yellow tile fl oors in the dressing rooms and one yellow leather chair on the sales fl oor. There are two large Art Deco crystal chandeliers, designed and hand-painted by Bendet, with modern furniture surrounding the store. “It’s sort of this contradiction of the old and new,” Bendet said of the decor. The dressing-room area is reminiscent of a French boudoir, with 16-foot fl oor-to-ceiling black silk curtains and a seating area, complete with an antique love seat upholstered in white patent leather and black lacquer. In a front corner, Bendet said there will be a small Dylan’s Candy Bar to sell sweets to shoppers. There also will be com- plimentary beverages, such as hot tea in the winter, and art installations that will change regularly. As another bonus, there will be a full-time in-house seamstress to make easy alterations or even create a pair of custom-made pants for customers. Besides the Los Angeles store, which opened in May, and the East Hampton location, Alice + Olivia is sold in more than 450 specialty boutiques worldwide. Bendet estimated fi rst-year sales volume of $2 million at the new fl agship. “I just want this to be a nice place to visit, where customers can come in, sit, hang out and do some shopping,” Bendet said. — J.G. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM

Women covet their beauty brands. Of the 10 products listed here, four are in personal care. Female shoppers have a penchant for buying TheWWDList brand-name cosmetics, which translates to all beauty products, too, said Britt Beemer, chairman and founder of America’s Research Group. The survey of 1,264 women who are primary household decision-makers also revealed that brand names matter even when it comes to daily sundries such as coffee or laundry product purchases. But why isn’t apparel higher on the list? “Women are frustrated with apparel design today,” said Beemer. “Ten years ago, 48.6 percent of Loyal Customers women told us that they shop when they’re down in the dumps. Today, it’s 23 percent.” So much for retail therapy. — Constance Gustke Top 10 consumer product categories that generate the most brand loyalty.

BATH SOAP Percentage of women who said they’re “very loyal” to a brand: 37.8 Traditionally, women are drawn to old soap favorites such as Dove and Ivory. But a growing market for handmade or scented soaps also is taking hold. Oprah Winfrey’s personal favorite: Davies Gate cinnamon stick soap, which uses organic ingredients. Scented soaps are also popular, such as those fragranced with lemon or lavender. Take the English beauty goods purveyor Caswell-Massey, which infuses its soaps with scents ranging 1 from pink grapefruit to lilac to cucumber.

HEALTH AND BEAUTY AIDS Percentage: 35.2 Mint tea shower gel or pomegranate body polish anyone? Many new beauty products now are tailored to specifi c customers, explained Beemer. Then there’s the boom in antiaging skin care products. L’Oréal recently signed Diane Keaton as the face of its Paris Age Perfect Pro-Calcium skin care line that launched this summer. And Jane Fonda also inked a deal to promote L’Oréal’s Age Perfect Pro-Calcium treatment line. For products 2 aimed at younger women, Christy Turlington recently rejoined Maybelline to advertise its Instant Age Rewind Cream Foundation.

HAIR PRODUCTS Percentage: 35.1 Sarah Jessica Parker helped make hair coloring fun and fashionable. And recently, Garnier signed up another sexy actress — Danna Garcia — to appeal to the booming Hispanic market. As a hair care brand in the making, Jessica Simpson is making waves with a new line of hair extensions. 3 Her company, called HairDo, is likely to become a future brand.

SOFT DRINKS Percentage: 32.9 Pop diva Mariah Carey recently hooked up with Pepsi to create new music for its Cool Tones downloads. Pepsi is no stranger to using fashionable females such as Beyoncé Knowles, Gwen Stefani and Britney Spears in its ads. On the other soda front, Coke has begun stocking stores overseas 4 with a smaller can that’s minimally designed to appeal to women in their 20s who are on the go.

MAYONNAISE Percentage: 31.4 In a small niche, big brands such as Kraft and Hellmann’s rule. Thus, brand choice here is important because taste varies dramatically between mayonnaise makers, said Beemer. Hellmann’s keeps tweaking its formula with even more new ingredients, such as canola oil or lime juice, as well 5 as light and reduced-fat versions for health-conscious women.

LAUNDRY PRODUCTS Percentage: 30.6 Sexy laundry detergent? Well, to Victoria’s Secret, yes. Its Lavish Laundry Detergent is advertised in its stores along with its lingerie. Not to be outdone, Tide, which has 42 percent of the detergent category, remade its ad campaigns combining music and fun with a new theme called “Tide 6 Knows Fabric Best” by showing women getting whistles from their boyfriends while wearing sexy — and very clean — outfi ts. MEDICINE BY ROGER RESSMETER/CORBIS MEDICINE BY

HAND AND BODY LOTION Percentage: 29.9 Self-tanning lotions are the new brand stars. Olay brought its Complete Touch of Sun Daily UV Facial Moisturizer to stores in April. And Jergens’ Natural Glow moisturizer was a sellout when it fi rst appeared. Sales of tinted hand and body lotions reached $42 million in 2005, versus just $5 7 million in 2004, according to WWD. Also lotions with organic ingredients, such as those made by Kiss My Face and Jason, are heading out of health food stores and into CVS and Wal-Mart, spawning new mass brands.

OVER-THE-COUNTER MEDICINES/PAIN RELIEVERS Percentage: 29.3 By developing women-only products, the drug industry wins over converts. For example, Bayer has its aspirin plus calcium. And Johnson & Johnson has a form of its best-selling Tylenol just for women. This year, Rita Moreno signed on with Johnson & Johnson for its “Healthy From the 8 Heart” campaign, which encourages women to fi nd out more about heart disease.

COFFEE Percentage: 28.1 Starbucks is the ultimate brand model here. Some 63 percent of all women named it as their favorite coffee shop, versus 53 percent of all men. Why? In a word: ambience. Starbucks has many homey attributes that women prize, such as convenience, cozy details and deep sofas. When 9 women are there, they drink specialty coffees such as lattes, cappuccinos and espressos, rather than plain old java.

SHOES Percentage: 27.9 Nobody brands product better than celebrities. Shoe lover-cum-diva Mariah Carey has worn silver Manolo Blahnik sandals. Blahnik’s high heels and pointed toes have spawned shoe trends all over the country. And Pat Benatar and Cheyenne Kimball have teamed up to help celebrate Candie’s 25th 10 anniversary with a reissue of its vintage collection that includes gold dress shoes. When shopping for shoes, style and fi t matter, said Beemer.

SOURCE: AMERICA’S RESEARCH GROUP, BASED IN CHARLOTTE, N.C. COMPILED FEBRUARY 2006. JUSTIN SULLIVAN/GETTY IMAGES; PAIN DETERGENT BY IMAGES; LAUNDRY MARIO TAMA/GETTY CORBIS; SOFT DRINKS BY COFFEE PHOTOS BY SOAP, WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 19 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Breaks Into Chicago Market Gildan Activewear to Cut By Beth Wilson 546 Jobs in U.S., Canada CHICAGO — Finally getting a foothold in a cov- eted big-city market, Wal-Mart on Wednesday NEW YORK — Gildan Activewear Inc. an- opened a 142,000-square-foot store on the city’s nounced on Wednesday it will cut approximate- West Side here. ly 546 jobs in the United States and Canada, The world’s largest retailer, seeking to expand relocating production to Central America and into cities because of saturation in the rural areas the Caribbean. where it has roots, traveled a challenging road The company will close its textile manu- in Chicago. The City Council in 2004 approved facturing facility in Valleyfield, Quebec, in the West Side store but killed plans for a second December, which will result in the downsizing Wal-Mart on the South Side. In July, the council of its knitting factory in Montreal. It will also passed legislation — opposed by Wal-Mart and shut its sock manufacturing factories in Mount Target, among others — mandating that major Airy, N.C., and Hillsville, Va., within the next big-box retailers boost pay to at least $10 per hour three to four months. along with $3 per hour in benefi ts by 2010. Mayor “The relocation of production capacity to Richard Daley successfully vetoed the measure, the company’s offshore manufacturing hubs in although proponents have vowed to introduce a Central America and the Caribbean Basin is new version. required in order to continue to be cost-com- New York, Los Angeles and Boston are among petitive against Asian imports and other global the cities where Wal-Mart has been rebuffed amid producers in the intensely competitive North criticism of its employee wages and benefits, American apparel industry,” the company said among other issues. The Bentonville, Ark.-based in a release. company has responded with a campaign to pub- Gildan has already made signifi cant invest- licize the value it provides consumers, along with ments in its manufacturing plants in Honduras generating jobs and tax revenue for localities. and the Dominican Republic. “We have to do a better job of explaining [that] In addition to restructuring its manufactur- we have competitive wages and benefi ts. We give ing operations, Gildan also announced it will back to the community,” said Chad Donath, Wal- close its Montreal distribution center at the end Mart’s market manager for Chicago. “There’s a lot of October, with responsibilities being trans- of misunderstanding out there of who we are and ferred to a third-party logistics fi rm. what we do.” Approximately 155 employees at the Many residents living in the city’s Austin neigh- Valleyfi eld facility and 50 employees at the borhood, however, welcomed the store. An esti- Montreal knitting factory will be affected, and mated 15,000 people applied for 400 jobs, and cus- about 335 positions in the United States will be tomers were lined up before it opened. The store cut. Six employees will lose their jobs with the was packed all day. closure of the distribution center. Some shoppers, who previously traveled to Moving production overseas, Gildan expects suburban Wal-Marts, said they were happy to have to report a restructuring charge of about 28 one close to home. Others came out to see Chicago cents per share in the fourth quarter. After the Bulls point guard Ben Gordon, who modeled Wal- charge, the company projects fourth-quarter Mart’s Exsto line, a collection of urban-themed at- Shoppers await Wal-Mart’s opening. earnings of approximately 30 cents a diluted tire for young men. KAREN HOYT PHOTO BY share and full-year earnings of $1.79. “It’s a great day for the residents of the West Side,” ships with neighborhood businesses. The collaboration Excluding the restructuring charge and re- said Alderman Emma Mitts, who campaigned to get Wal- with Uncle Remus came out of those meetings, he said. cent Kentucky Derby Hosiery acquisition, the Mart in her Austin neighborhood. Mitts argued that resi- Wal-Mart also carries Azteca tortillas that are produced company expects full-year earnings for fi scal dents needed the jobs Wal-Mart could provide and that in the area. 2007 at $2.50, up 21 percent from 2006. the retailer would re-energize the community. Wal-Mart also plans to donate $117,500 to programs in “The projected increase in diluted eps in fi s- Wal-Mart, which estimates the fi rst Chicago store will Austin and across the city. The company hopes these ini- cal 2007 refl ects higher unit sales volumes and contribute more than $2 million a year in city and county tiatives will generate goodwill and pave the way for more the impact of manufacturing cost reductions taxes, has tried to win over the neighborhood. It is leas- Wal-Marts in the city. primarily due to the ramp-up of the Dominican ing space to an Uncle Remus restaurant, a longtime local Donath said Wal-Mart executives plan to meet with Republic textile facility,” the company said in favorite that serves fried chicken. In addition, the store city offi cials in the next month to discuss building more a release. is the fi rst in Wal-Mart’s program to work with area lead- stores. Gildan said it will continue to evaluate the ers and businesses to bring economic investment into a “We’ll sit down and see what’s available,” said Donath, long-term viability and global competitiveness of specifi c urban district. who said the retailer does not have a set number of units its remaining Canadian manufacturing facilities. Store manager Ed Smith said the retailer held vendor it will propose. “We would like to get as many [stores] as — Jeanine Poggi fairs before the opening to discuss potential partner- we can.”

competition from the likes of Fortune and The Economist. “We did get some complaints. We did get some people The magazine’s paid and verifi ed circulation fell 5.5 who felt it was sexual for sex’s sake,” said Bradford Matson, percent to 930,722 for the fi rst half of this year, chief marketing offi cer at Bluefl y. “Our intent was to show MEMO PAD according to the Audit Bureau of Circulations, though real women in real situations.” newsstand sales grew 7.4 percent. The Economist Bluefl y’s 30-second spot, which left more to the ALL THE HELP IT CAN GET: The long lead time for Portfolio’s reported a 14.8 percent surge in paid circ, to 600,727. imagination (and fewer sexually charged images of the debut gives its competitors plenty of time to prepare. One BusinessWeek’s ad pages are down 1.6 percent to 1,591 couple in bed), made its debut online during New York in particular is casting the net as wide as it can, turning to through last month, according to Publisher’s Information Fashion Week, on sites such as You Tube, Google and Yahoo. other editors for advice. Top editors at BusinessWeek this Bureau, and lag behind Fortune, which carried 1,714 It began airing on TV the following week and will continue summer invited Gary Belsky and Neil Fine, executive editors pages through the same period, a 3 percent decline. through Nov. 1, during syndicated broadcasts of “Sex and at ESPN the Magazine, and New York editor in chief Adam The Economist’s pages are down 1.5 percent to 1,311. the City” on TBS and “Desperate Housewives” on Lifetime, Moss in to critique the magazine as it geared up for a If that’s not enough to worry about, there is speculation as well as on Bravo’s “Project Runway,” E Entertainment major redesign, according to insiders. The men provided about layoffs in November, which has staffers, especially and Style. (An even less provocative 15-second take was a host of suggestions; for example, insiders said Moss those left over from former editor Stephen Shepard’s drummed up for the CW, which rejected both of Bluefl y’s preferred shorter stories (à la New York’s “Intelligencer” regime, nervous. — S.D.S. 90- and 30-second offerings.) — Valerie Seckler section), and preferred more conceptual covers, such as the ones The Economist often produces. The group surely GOOD FORTUNE: Speaking of Fortune, managing editor Eric SECOND HELPING: After Self served up one issue of food knows what they’re talking about — New York this year Pooley poached two staffers from The New York Times and cooking spin-off Self Dishes in the spring, Condé won a National Magazine Award for Design, while ESPN and the New York Post this week, proving that Portfolio’s Nast has ordered two issues of the title for 2007. Last won for General Excellence for magazines with circulations Joanne Lipman is not the only magazine editor scouring year, Self published 750,000 copies of the magazine, of of 1 million to 2 million. newspapers for talent. Times information graphics editor which 300,000 were mailed or distributed to the Food A spokeswoman for BusinessWeek said, “We often Sarah Slobin will join Fortune on Oct. 24 as senior editor Network and other outlets, but next year will bump up meet with outside editors and opinion leaders to discuss and Post media reporter Tim Arango will join Oct. 16 the distribution to 850,000 copies of the slated May and new ideas for how we can best serve the needs of our as a writer. Arango, whom Pooley said “is really great September issues, e-mailing another 1 million copies readers.” Does that mean creating an Approval Matrix for at penetrating big media organizations,” worked at to people who have registered with the Condé Nast business leaders in BusinessWeek? TheStreet.com and Budapest Business Journal (really!) database. While associate publisher Lynne Dominick did The redesign is being planned so meticulously that before joining the Post in 2002. — S.D.S. not say how many copies sold at newsstand, she said, insiders say the title postponed unveiling the new look from “To give the green light so early on a project before the March to next fall so it can take a peek at Portfolio fi rst. SEX PLAY: Too sexy for their clothes? Apparently not. budgets have been fi nalized for 2007 or all magazines, But while consulting with successful editors of weekly and Despite complaints from some viewers and the we know it was an enormous success on the newsstands.” biweekly titles may be helpful, editor in chief Stephen Adler rejection of the 90-second version of its current California Raisins and Fosters already have signed up fi rst must fi nd a new art director to execute the overhaul commercial, “We’re Going To Be Late,” by all TV networks, for the next edition, though neither advertised in the since Malcolm Frouman, who served 22 years in the position online fashion boutique Bluefl y claims it has drawn 6,185 premiere issue. While Dishes seems to have found and oversaw the 2003 redesign, left the company this week. new customers with a 30-second take on the original spot, success, Self may want to think about spinning off a But BusinessWeek isn’t facing a threat only from which shows a couple too caught up in each other — and pregnancy special, given that 12 staffers will have given the impending Portfolio — it’s already suffering from quick to take off their clothes — to make a social event. birth by the end of the year. — S.D.S. 20 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM EU Nears New Airport Regulations Beene Estate Donates LONDON — The European Union on Wednesday the needs of the industry.” took steps toward introducing new airport regula- If accepted, the changes should be implement- $44M to Cancer Center tions governing liquids onboard aircraft. ed by early November. The Regulatory Committee for Civil Aviation As reported, airport security has been stepped By Rosemary Feitelberg Security gave a nod to proposed rules that would up internationally since an alleged terrorist plot to limit the amount of liquids passengers can take use liquid-based explosives to blow up planes fl ying NEW YORK — The estate of Geoffrey Beene has donated an through security checks but “will still permit pas- from the U.K. to the U.S. was uncovered in August. initial commitment of $44 million to Memorial Sloan-Kettering sengers to buy under certain conditions larger — Brid Costello Cancer Center for a research initiative to be known as the quantities of liquids at airport shops beyond the Geoffrey Beene Cancer Research Center. point where boarding passes are controlled,” the News of the gift — one of the larger ones made to the hospi- European Commission said in a statement. tal in recent years — was released Wednesday, one day shy of At press time, a Commission spokesman could not Parfums d’Image Gets N.Y. Subsidiary the second anniversary of the designer’s death. Beene died of specify what those conditions are, but said, in gen- PARIS — Parfums d’Image, the French private complications from cancer at the age of 80. eral, products purchased in travel retail stores after label beauty manufacturer, has established a sub- The center will occupy several fl oors in the Mortimer B. security checks will be allowed on board aircraft. sidiary in New York, called Parfums d’Image Inc., Zuckerman Research Building, the new 23-story research facil- In particular, the rules would allow passengers which was created in July. ity at the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center. Essentially, to bring liquids contained in 100-ml. containers Like its parent company, the new subsidiary the initial donation will be used toward programs and research through security in transparent resealable plastic focuses on creating beauty lines for supermarkets and will help get advancements achieved in the research labs bags, which would be screened and drugstores, the fi rm said in to clinic sites. Hospital executives declined to comment on at security. a statement Monday. the estate’s plans for additional fi nancial commitments. G. “It looks like a great re- Parfums d’Image Inc. has al- Thompson Hutton, the estate’s executor, did not return phone sult,” said a spokesman for ready inked a deal to create a calls Wednesday. the European Travel Retail BEAUTY BEAT men’s treatment collection for As a young man, Beene set out for a career in medicine, en- Council, a trade organization drugstore chain Jean Coutu, rolling at Tulane University’s medical school. In a 2002 inter- representing the travel retail industry in Europe. which operates more than 4,000 doors in North view with WWD, the Louisiana native said he often was thrown “It will allow us to continue trading as normal.” America, 1,858 of which are Brooks Eckerd stores out of lectures for sketching images of Joan Crawford, but anat- U.S. authorities implemented a similar regime being acquired by Rite Aid Corp. omy class is what fi nally did him in. “Twenty-one cadavers in on Tuesday. In the U.S., passengers may buy liq- Parfums d’Image Inc. is targeting fi rst-year sales of one room was the moment of truth for me,” he said. “But the uids in travel retail stores and carry them aboard $1 million, and within fi ve years it aims to reach annu- thing I hated the most wound up being the basis of my career planes. The U.S. rules also mean passengers may al revenues of between $25 million and $30 million. — the body.” carry a limited amount of liquids in their carry- “North America represents strong potential,” the During a telephone interview Wednesday, Russell Nardozza, on luggage, but containers must also be packed in Levallois-Perret, France-based fi rm said in the state- senior vice president and chief operating offi cer of Geoffrey resealable plastic bags, which are screened sepa- ment. “Not only because of the size of the fragrance Beene Inc., said, “He had a fascination with medicine and the rately at security. and cosmetics market, but also because of the strong human body — as evidenced in his clothes. His medical train- The proposed European regulations must be penetration of private label brands there.” ing and understanding of the human form helped derive the formally accepted by European commissioners Parfums d’Image, which was fl oated on the direction of his work.” before becoming law. Paris stock exchange in February, produces pri- The MSKCC gift is not the only substantial one that has been “I expect this to be adopted in the course of vate label beauty products for clients including made by Beene’s estate. Earlier this year the Animal Medical next week,” Jacques Barrot, Commission vice Wal-Mart-owned Asda in the U.K. and perfumery Center received a $10 million gift from the late fashion design- president, said in the statement. “I warmly wel- chain Nocibé in France. It also makes fragrances er. The AMC is New York City’s largest facility for animal care, come the results of the Committee meeting, which for companies such as car manufacturer Citroën education and research, and is open around the clock every strike the necessary balance between a tough ap- and apparel label Laura Ashley. day of the year. proach on security, the comfort of passengers and — Ellen Groves On another front, last year the Geoffrey Beene Scholarship Endowment was set up at YMA, a nonprofi t dedicated to ad- vancing the apparel, design, retail and textile industries. The $1 million endowment from the late designer was the largest single gift in the YMA’s history. Last year’s Collection of Geoffrey Beene sale at Sotheby’s drummed up more than $4 million for the estate. Tanner Krolle Sets New Line LONDON — British luxury leather goods firm Tanner Krolle has gone back to its classic roots for spring and will unveil its latest collection, which reflects the change of direction, during a presen- STYLE tation today at Milan’s Park Hyatt hotel. Tanner Krolle’s creative direc- tor, Manuela Morin, who started STARTS in June, and chief executive of- fi cer Martin Mason, who came on board in February, said they want to remind consum- A Tanner Krolle bag for spring. HERE. ers of the brand’s “illustrious past,” which includes making bespoke luggage and trunks for European royals and aristocrats. “We’ve reinstated quality at the brand,” said Mason, who has • 5 days a week Monday through Friday held executive posts at British brands such as Mulberry, Pringle and John Smedley. “We want to be seen once again as the luxury • Morning hand-delivery* British leather goods company.” Morin, former head of accessories design at Stella McCartney, • Color photographs described spring as a capsule collection, with bags only. She’ll be introducing shoes for fall. • WWDSCOOP (4 issues per year) Morin and Mason were hired by the fi rm’s owners, Rupert Hambro and Partners, and the U.S. private equity fund Albion Investors. • Spring and Fall issues of WWD The Magazine “What you’re seeing here is just the beginning and the foun- dation of what we’ll be doing for fall,” said Morin, adding that all • Annual market supplements of the bags have been produced in Britain and Italy. Prices start at 595 pounds, or about $1,130, for a leather bag. Under former ceo Guy Salter, the brand focused more on trends and bling details and created provocative ad campaigns. Get all of this and so much more. By contrast, the latest collection features semiconstructed bags in shiny crocodile, nabuk and embossed, straw-print or Subscribe to WWD today! matte leathers. Details include leather bridle handles, discreet rodium hard- Simply call 1-800-289-0273 or 1-818-487-4526. ware and woven raffi a for evening. Colors range from classics, such as white, taupe and an English racing green, to brighter You can also subscribe online at www.subnow.com/wd/ad shades of robin’s-egg blue and sage green. The collection will be in Milan through Thursday, and the *Buildings in NYC with delivery access only. company will be doing press appointments in Paris next week and in London in mid-October. — Samantha Conti WWD group publisher, at212-630-4589,oryourWWDsalesrepresentative. contactRalphFor Erardy, moreinformationonadvertising, seniorvicepresident, Section II: this valuable retail mix attracting the of demographic. make to your part brand Advertise shopping habits and spending power. Generation In Depth will provide critical analysis of this demographic, from top brands andmarket, trends to proving these fashion-savvy women know their way around their favorite stores. multibillion-dollar 13 a is 20 ages to WWD’s consumers of Next generation wearing? next they The are What November 9 9 November Next GenerationInDepth Close: WWD October 24 MediaWorldwide youth movement youth ® WWD WWD Style StartsHere SPECIAL ISSUE SPECIAL ™

PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN 22 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

As the leader in contemporary design, we are DESIGNERS seeking talented, dynamic individuals as we JUNIORS continue to grow and expand. Seeking ASSISTANT AND 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. ASSOCIATE DESIGNERS High ceilings - Excellent Condition Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 for junior denim and sports- Search www.manhattanrealty.com BUYER/MERCHANDISER wear. Ideal candidates must be well organized, MAC pro- Showrooms & Lofts ficient and familiar with all BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS We are seeking a seasoned Buyer/Merchandiser for Great ’New’ Office Space Avail phases of line development. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 NY based showroom. Primary responsibilities and Opportunity for promotion qualifications include: and advancement. GIRLS 4-6X & 7-16 • Creating buy/assortment plans for Sales team Seeking a SENIOR LEVEL • Conducting trend and market research DESIGNER for girls. Prior • Strong leadership and communication skills denim experience a must. • Ability to effectively present buy plan strategies Please e-mail resume to: Broadway Garment Center to sales team [email protected] or fax OFFICE PLUS SHOWROOM AVAILABLE TO SHARE • Knowledge of womens contemporary market to: (212) 354 - 4418. Please Call Anna @ 917-907-1667 • At least 3-5 years of related experience • Extensive apparel buying experience a definite plus

Qualified candidates, please email resume and salary requirements to: DESIGNER/ FAMOUS AMERICAN DESIGNER MERCHANDISER [email protected] Seeking experienced personnel Prod Asst Trainee for several positions. Well est’d women’s apparel importer is Leading children’s wear providing great opportunities to manufacturer seeks take- TECHNICAL DESIGNER - LADIES candidates who have basic knowledge DATA ENTRY TAILORED CLOTHING of specing & garment construction, charge Designer/ Merchan- Accountant/ We are looking for a SMART candidate strong communication skill and diser for newborn/ infant/ Well est’d Fashion Co. seeks person for to join our tailored clothing division. Chargeback Specialist LIC plant location. Must be detail ori- familiar with excel, MS outlook. toddler girls and boys Responsibilities include tech packs, Fax resume to 212- 302-3872 Couture Salon Furniture Must maintain and manage account- ented, min 5-6 yrs of fashion or related specs and graded specs, garment fit- ind. exp. Resp. include: Data entry, licensed playwear division. DUE TO MOVE • Several elegant pieces ing files, AP/AR, manage bank and tings and coordination with factories. Salary to commensurate available from Designer Showroom: general ledger reconciliations, analyze processing/revising EDI orders on a Flat sketching and illustrator a plus! Product Development chargeback’s. Must have strong Excel daily basis. Must speak, read and write with experience. chairs, sofa, tables - Excellent Condition. MENS OUTERWEAR DESIGNER Coordinator & Assistant Please call: 212-765-2802 skills B.S. Accounting or Finance. Sal- in English. ary 35k firm. Fax resume: 212-563-4294 Pls email resume to: [email protected] We are looking for an energetic designer CHING FUNG APPAREL Please email: with experience in men’s tailored, ACCESSORIES (USA), INC. leather and active outerwear. Fabric [email protected] knowledge, Illustrator and a high taste Growing trim’s co. seeking energetic, or fax (212) 967-8108 or Assistant Designer Design Assistant level is mandatory. You must have great organized customer service person. call Albert M at (212) Major ladies sportswear company looking Exciting opportunity in design, pro- communication skills and an ability to Must have at least 2-3 yrs. of exp. in for Assistant Designer. Req’s: Illustrator, duction and merchandising. Must be a work with imports. the business (trims/ production/sales). 244-6023 ext. 223 Photoshop, English/ Chinese Bilingual. self starter and highly org’d. Knowl- Excellent communication skills to work Please fax resume: 212-221-0368. edge of Excel & Tech Pack prepara- ASSOCIATE DESIGNER in a fast pace environment. Communi- tions a must! Fax resume:212-941-0114 MENS OUTERWEAR and cating effectively & professionally at LADIES OUTERWEAR all times with clients & overseas offices. Coordinate tech packs, lab dips, sample Tech Designer (NY) Jeans Contractor Wtd. Organized & detailed oriented. Great Women’s apparel co looking for tech Designer jean store in Maine needs a scheduling and flat sketching. Trim presentation skills & professional to development and overall good fashion designer. Min 3-5 years exp. Must have contractor for custom jeans for open- DESIGN ASSOCIATE work with clients. Trims / production excellent patternmaking / adjusting ing in November 2006. sense. This is a great chance to be part background a plus & strong computer Contemporary knitwear company of a successful team skills. Work with domestic & overseas Contact: Carol Cronin / 516-946-1754 seeks associate designer with min. 3 skills. MS Word, Excel No calls please!! factories. Pls fax resume and salary or E-mail: [email protected] years expr. Ability to sense trends, ASSISTANT DRESS DESIGNER Please e-mail resumes to: requirements to LA office 213-239-9709 well organized, technical, knowledge Coordinate tech packs, lab dips, sam- [email protected] attn: Design Director. of photoshop and illustrator. Please ple scheduling & flat sketching. Trim e-mail resume to: [email protected] development and overall good fashion PRODUCTION ASSISTANT sense. Huge oppty for the right person. Aggressive 20+ year old Accessory Co. DESIGNER / SALES Pls. email resumes: [email protected] looking for a Production Assistant (Please state position you are with 3-5 years experience writing Associate Analyst - Proven individuals to develop and sell applying for in the subject line) PO’s, communicating with factories, handbags / small accessories. Familiar following up on samples and other Technical Sweater Wholesale/ Retail with Jr. and Mass Retail Chains. Fit Model production details. Must be a self starter with a keen sense of urgency and the Designer DOMESTIC CUT / Polo Leathergoods, a licensee for E-mail or fax resume - 212-244-5897 Helmut Lang is currently seeking a fit Qualified candidates would be respon- Polo/Ralph Lauren & a division of [email protected] model. Must be a ladies size 4. Please ability to work against deadlines. Ideal candidate will work with Sales & Design, sible for evaluating and correcting the SEW EXECUTIVE Kellwood, is seeking to fill an Associ- send resume and salary requirements fit of garments on models. Candidate Seeks affiliation with established ate Analyst position. The individual DESIGNERS to: [email protected] while maintaining up to date commu- nications records. Computer knowledge must be detail oriented, organized importer in updated missy, jr, jr plus reports to the Director of Planning & good communicator, experience with areas who desires quick turn domestic will interface w/ sales, production & ECI New York a must. Send cover letter and resume to: [email protected] overseas and domestic factories, work knit operation-Will supply mgmt, design, finance. The essential responsibilities A better manufacturer of Women’s independently and handle deadlines. patternmaking, pre-production, pro- of the position include the reporting & Branded & Private Label Sportswear Must have min 3-5 years in sweater duction locally. No inv buildup, profita- analysis of wholesale & retail perform- and Dresses currently has career MERCHANDISER and cut and sew knit of overseas and ble margins- Need company w/ ability ance to support forecasting & decision opportunities available in the follow- NC based vertical t-shirt private label Production Patternmaker domestic production. Excellent com- to sell and finance operation. Serious making in the areas of planning & ing categories: manufacturer has an opportunity Young contemporary Co. seeks pensation and benefit package. Please inquiries only- In strict confidence reply production. Sportswear Designer for an experienced embellished t-shirt production patternmaker/tech design. send resume and salary requirements to:[email protected] Private Label Coordinator merchandiser. Experience required Knowledge of draping, flat pattern- to: [email protected] Candidates must be detail oriented, Dress Designer in screen print inks and application making and grading required. have strong analytical skills, a working Technical Designer processes, embroidery & other t-shirt Fax resume to 212-625-2025 knowledge of Excel, & be able to embellishment techniques. Also, new SHANGHAI EXP’D MFR complete tasks w/ time sensitive ECI is a great home for individuals product sourcing and development, Better/designer eveningwear supplier. requirements. An understanding of that love Fashion and have a strong merchandising and sales presentation. TRAFFIC SHIPPING MGR Quality work, Quick turnaround desire to succeed. The above positions PUBLIC RELATIONS retail math & financial plans from Some travel required. Mail resumes to for lingerie co. Work in NYC. Handle Call (212) 461-4852 www.alamoda.com dept. stores is required. require minimum 3 years experience Fun-Tees, Inc. PO Box 187, Concord, and must have good trade references. ASSISTANT receiving from overseas and shipping Send resume with cover letter and NC 28026, Attn: Bob Zevon. Pls. e-mail VIVIENNE TAM is currently seeking a to retail customers. 3 yrs exp. Email: [email protected] resumes to: [email protected] salary requirements to: Fax: 212-382-0237 candidate w/min. 2 yrs. exp. to develop Computer literate. [email protected] all public relations prog. Respons. FAX resume (212) 532-8707 includes press appt. and editorials, Designers, G.M., Administrative MERCHANDISER events, fashion show. Photoshop & Syllables Inc. & Stacy Adams Sptswr., Superba, Inc., the dominant fashion graphics knowledge a plus. Please fax a fast growing men’s urban dress co. force among better neckwear manu- resume w/ cover letter to (212) 398-9695. BUYER seeks Designers, General Mgr & Juniors, Plus Sizes - tops & separates facturers, is seeking a well-rounded Entry Level admin. personnel. energetic creative thinker with mer- buyer. Must have 5 years experience in E-mail: [email protected] Receptionist PATTERN/SAMPLES moderate &/or Branded Urban Market. chandising skills to join our design Great Opportunity. Fast paced Lg $100K + medical benefits. team. E-mail [email protected]. Childrenswear co seeks receptionist to Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Send resume in confidence to: DRAPER/SAMPLE handle all aspects of showroom man- work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Patternmaker $70-80K. Current exp in [email protected] CUTTER mens or womens woven dress shirts. agement, including the use of multi Established Eveningwear firm seeks Willing to relocate to Northeast Penn. line phones. Must be able to work COMMERCIAL MANAGER experienced Draper/Cutter. Call 973-564-9236. Jaral Agency. under pressure and prioritize. Must Please fax resume to: 212-658-9416 have knowledge of Microsoft Office. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, European contemporary women’s RTW Email [email protected] brand launched in S/S ’07 is recruiting a PRODUCTIONS North American Commercial Manager. Entry Level Clerk 2 Positions Available... All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Importer of ladies apparel seeks entry SAMPLEMAKER Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Requirements include: PATTERNMAKER SHOWROOM SALES level clerk. Will train. Excel Jonden Knit Sportwear Co. seeks exp. Hi-end eveningwear co. seeks • Strong knowledge of the market & spreadsheets, highly organized & good samplemakers. Min 10yrs exp. Unique opportunity w/expanding factory well-founded relationships with retail person, Bklyn warehouse. Gerber communication skills a must. skills a plus. Fax: (718) 369-4927. Email: [email protected] group in China for a Sales Professional PATTERNS, SAMPLES, executives in dept & specialty stores. Email resume to Fax: 212-629-3004 with a minimum 5 years experience. • Ensure strategic brand positioning. [email protected] Current market contacts w/management PRODUCTIONS • Travel & market research. or fax to 212-869-4437. at Dept. & Specialty chain stores needed Benefits & incentives. to promote new line. Full service shop to the trade. Salary commensurate with experience. PATTERNMAKER Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. PRODUCTION PLACEMENT Please send resume to: Executive Assistant Well est’d. Designer Sportswear Co. has a SHIPPING DEPT. [email protected] Needed to assist VP and Sales Mgr. w/ F/T position available for a motivated, organized, detail oriented team player Women’s Designer Sportswear. 3+ yrs SPECIALIST day-to-day office and customer service. experience. Good communication and Position requires top level contacts with CUSTOMER SERVICE-Apparel Exp Bilingual English/ Chinese helpful. w/10+ years experience. Responsibilities PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD 1- Order Entry - EDI include draping & 1st pattern through computer skills. Picking, packing, inv. domestic importers seeking high volume High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- 2- Customer Service Manager E-mail or fax resume - 212-244-5897 prod’n. Salary based on exp. Fax / E-mail: control, invoicing. quality production w/excellent follow-up. sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) [email protected] 212-302-3121 / [email protected] Fax resume w/ sal req. to: 212-768-2358 Fax resumes to: 212-354-1852 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2006 23 WWD.COM FFANY Benefi t First Vivre Store to Open in the Bahamas To Raise Funds By Sharon Edelson A rendering of The Cove’s open-air walkway. For Cancer va Jeanbart-Lorenzotti travels to exotic locations to find the rari- Efied products that fill her Vivre catalogue and Web site, so it seems CARMEN ELECTRA only fitting that her first store is opening at a resort in the Bahamas. will host the 13th annual Escape by Vivre, a 1,500-square-foot shop, will be situated in an QVC Presents “FFANY open-air walkway facing the ocean at The Cove Atlantis, which is Shoes on Sale” Oct. 18 to scheduled to open in Paradise Island in March. benefit breast cancer re- Jeanbart-Lorenzotti said she was attracted to the project by The search and education. Cove’s exclusivity and affl uent clientele. The Cove will have 600 The world’s largest suites, compared with the 2,300 rooms at the adjacent Atlantis, a shoe fund-raiser and Disney-esque coral-colored complex with a water park, a casino and black-tie awards dinner marine habitat. She also liked the fact that Escape would be the only will be at the Waldorf- store at the property. Astoria in New York and “The Cove is modern, fun, very chic and beautiful,” she said, add- broadcast live on QVC. ing that consumers are likely to spend more on vacation because The event benefits the they’re in a positive frame of mind. “Vivre has so much to do with six leading U.S. breast travel. It’s a global experience. We don’t want to create a resort store. cancer research and ed- We want to create a destination that allows ucation institutions. The you to discover what traveling is about.” Eva annual dinner has raised Jeanbart-Lorenzotti was contemplating a Jeanbart- more than $22 million. retail concept when Kerzner International Lorenzotti The show will sell Ltd., which owns Atlantis, called. With sales more than 100,000 pairs of $50 million in 2006, the 10-year-old Vivre A gold of shoes, donated by 80 of was ready to branch out, she said, adding, clutch and the industry’s top design- “We have one of the highest average transac- necklace. ers and brands during the tions in the catalogue industry at $750.” live three-hour broadcast. Jeanbart-Lorenzotti admits she breaks The honorees include the first rule of catalogue selling: She Christian Louboutin as doesn’t run items more than once in cata- Designer of the Year; Rob- logues. “People said this wouldn’t work,” she ert Bensoussan, chief ex- recalled. “They said you have to do repeat ecutive offi cer of Jimmy products.” Choo Ltd., will accept Many of Vivre’s items are limited editions the award for Fashion or simply exist in fi nite quantities. For ex- Footwear Company of ample, Jeanbart-Lorenzotti got her hands the year, and Tony Hsieh, on some baubles made for Coco Chanel. “We ceo of Zappos.com, will own the only pieces that exist,” she said. be cited as Innovative Re- “The merchandise is like a moment in time. tailer of the Year. June When it’s gone, it’s gone.” Jeffrey Beers, the architect of The Cove, designed Ambrose will get the Unusual fabrics, exotic skins and furs are Escape with a neutral palette with copper accents. Stylist Extraor dinaire mainstays. The fall Vivre catalogue features Merchandise will be housed in mother-of-pearl ar-

Award, and Michael a plaited sable vest for $895; bone candle- ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY moires and displayed on oversized tables. The fl oors Atmore, editorial director sticks, $600; a shagreen clutch, $1,115; Sergio will be embedded with bits of art and enormous chan- of the Footwear Group of Rossi crocodile riding boots, $14,000, and a Malo for Vivre cashmere deliers will illuminate the space. Fairchild Fashion Group, jacket with a pekan-fur collar, $3,185. Not everything is unique, how- Howard Karawan, president and managing director of the will accept the award for ever. A Michael by Michael Kors washed-leather jacket, at $250, could Destination Resorts Group for Kerzner, said Atlantis’ fi ve logo stores Journalism Excellence. be sold at a department store. produce $20 million a year, or about 5 percent of that resort’s total Recording artist Mya Escape by Vivre will offer a tightly edited collection of merchan- retail volume. He projected sales of $800,000 to $1 million for Escape will perform, and Diane dise such as “great scents, the perfect tanning oil, great cover-ups, in its fi rst year. “Escape is an integral part of the whole Cove expe- von Furstenberg and Ken- wonderful bathing suits, extravagant handbags in all kinds of skins rience,” he said. “It’s not a sundry store. It’s not about convenience.” neth Cole will present and lots of jewelry,” Jeanbart-Lorenzotti said. There also will be san- There could be travel in Escape’s future, if the concept takes off. awards. dals, watches, books and a children’s section. “The merchandise will “We’re building a resort in Dubai,” Karawan said. “There may be anoth- change often,” she said. er Escape there. We hope this is the beginning of a long relationship.”

Designer women’s showroom seeks SLS ASSOC - KIDS SWIM OPEN $ SALES EXECUTIVE SALESPERSON(S) Est’d co. seeks sharp individ - "right Sales Account Executive KEY ACCOUNT Midtown apparel co. seeks aggressive hand" to Divisional President. Growth Must have exp in clothing wholesale PRIVATE LABEL ONLY salesperson, experienced in sportswear spot with travel. LUXURY ITALIAN and established relationships with spe- Major NY based apparel co. specializing and lingerie. We offer a competitive cialty stores. Must be a self-starter and in the moderate to better dress business. salary & excellent benefits. Please fax A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. BOUTIQUE multi-tasker, as well as having excel- Open to additional business opportunities resume to 212-704-2003 Hillary. 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 Known worldwide for our Women’s lent communication skills. in separates. We operate strictly in a Apparel, is currently accepting DESIGNER Please send your resume to project to project environment w/ our applications for: Successful NY/Palm Beach designer, [email protected] design team as key support. Candidate SALESPERSON will create any line. Bonni or fax to 212-278-8727 should posses previous private label sales WANTED Store Management 212-886-4536 or cell 917-293-5033. exp. w/ a retail following , & posses strong In Our New York Flagship Boutique communication skills. Benefits / 401K. Branded Bottoms Co. needs a min. 2 years experienced salesperson to handle Please reply in confidence w/ salary We are seeking candidates with INTERNATIONAL req. to HR: fax # 201-964-5892 major accts jr/missy/large sizes. Papillon Eastern Imports Email: [email protected] excellent interpersonal skills, superior Apparel Production & Contemporary missy Sportswear & Dress Fax: (212) 736-5599 customer service standards, strong Co. seeks energetic SALESPERSON w/ Assistant Manager leadership skills and a highly developed Overseas Troubleshooter major chain & specialty stores exp.; Boutique seeking motivated, career sense of style. A min. of 3 years exp. will train & teach QA/QC standards & manage corp. showroom in California SALES MANAGER oriented sales assistant manager. req’d For consideration, please e-mail production methods to qualified co. Mart. Fax resume: 213-623-4596 or E-mail Domestic manufacturing company of SALES PRO Must be computer literate, have your resume to : [email protected] Call: 647-706-2332 to: [email protected] Successful Missy / Plus sportswear im- strong client skills and at least 3 womens and junior sportswear seeks porter seeks highly motivated, aggres- experienced individual to lead the sales years minimum retail management sive, detailed individual to generate new experience in designer market. and design team. Must have solid business. Must have strong contacts with relationships, product knowledge and Fax resume (212) 929-7574 or e-mail department stores & mass market chain [email protected]. SALES EXEC $$$$$$ management experience. stores. You should be knowledgeable in Leading Young Men’s Co opening Please e-mail resume to: cut & sew knits and sweaters. If you have Junior/Young Contemp Denim div. [email protected] a strong customer account base and you VP of Wholesale Seeks 2 highly motivated Sales feel confident within yourself, please LUXURY BOUTIQUE International Lxury Fashion Co seeks Execs with min 3 years Denim exp. VP of Wholesale w/min 10 yrs exp deal- send resume to Fax: (212) 840-5809 Known worldwide for our Women’s Must Have solid industry contacts. or [email protected] ing w/ major department and specialty Outstanding Oppty/Excellent Salary Apparel, is currently accepting store accounts. Candidate must have Please Fax Resume: 212-871-6350 applications for the following positions good relationships with high level dept Or e-mail: [email protected] in various NYC boutiques: store contacts, as well as, luxury and SALES REP contemporary retailers. Candidate A growing L.A. based manufacturer is Store Management/Sales must possess strong leadership, SALES MANAGER looking for an aggressive experienced Associate/Cashier presentation, communication and Salt Jeans a premium denim company Sales Rep with established accounts & management skills. Must be efficient seeks a Sales Manager with min 5 relationship w/ major retailers to handle We are seeking candidates with excellent with retail projections and managing years experience working with High our Girls 7 -16 Knit Top Division. Great interpersonal skills, superior customer accounts. A team player is essential. end dept stores and boutiques. Excel- opportunity & excellent benefits for the service standards, & polished/ profes- Competitive salary and benefits. lent Salary + compensation package. right person. (Minimum 3 yrs. exp. of sional presence. Prior retail experience Please email resume and cover letter to: Email résumés: [email protected] Apparel Sales) E-mail resume with salary required. For consideration, please e-mail history to: [email protected] your resume to : [email protected] [email protected] Lace skirt and velvet blazer by Helen Wang. Fabric by cotton. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com

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