The Inside: Pg. 18 ICAHN’S FEDERATED MOVE/3 KELLWOOD’S BUY/3 Where LoyaltyWWD Lies WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • September 28, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Here Comes the Budget Bride The biggest news in fashion this week isn’t on the Milan runways. Rather, it hails from the wonderful world of high- low, where Viktor & Rolf and H&M have gotten hitched for a short-term marriage. It’s that very idea that inspired Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who discussed details of the collaboration exclusively with WWD. The ultimate object of their wedded bliss: this 298 euro, or $380, wedding gown, pictured here with Horsting and Snoeren in the ad campaign shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 9. Chloé to Name Marni’s Paolo Melin Anderson as Head Designer By Miles Socha French fashion house later this about its succession plan after its hloé has tapped a senior, but year. show during Paris Fashion Week. Chidden, talent from Marni to Reached late on Wednesday, a Anderson, a Swedish native who succeed Phoebe Philo, WWD has Chloé spokesman said only, “We has worked at Marni for several learned. do not comment on rumors.” years, will assume the design According to sources, Paolo However, the house said recently helm at one of the fastest-growing Melin Anderson will join the it would make an announcement See Chloé, Page 10 WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION ™ For better or worse, themes played a big role in the Milan collections, from a silvery space theme to a football game to a fashion safari. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL French fashion house Chloé is said to have tapped a senior, but hidden, IN THE CARDS 1 talent, Paolo Melin Anderson, from Marni to succeed Phoebe Philo. Women Increasingly Rely on Gift Cards for Holiday Giving Federated Department Stores said billionaire investor Carl Icahn wants to 3 acquire up to $500 million in additional shares of the company. The holidays are her favorite time of the allow women to shop for apparel items that fit Kellwood Co. has acquired CRL Group, owner of the Vince brand and trademark, the Los Angeles-based contemporary resource. year and Debbie, a busy mother of three, has found their bodies and who they are. We have found 3 a savvy way of extending the joys of the season to this to be true at Eddie Bauer, where our woman Iconix Brand Group and Sears Holdings have renewed and expanded the many of her friends and family. “I buy gift cards,” is using her gift cards to purchase apparel that 5 Joe Boxer license and will now sell products in Kmart and Sears stores. she says. “Not only are gift cards a really convenient supports her modern outdoor lifestyle and find Not only did Viktor & Rolf say “I do” to a hookup with H&M, the com- gift to buy, but I give every person her perfect fit,”says Lisa Erickson, 10 pany designed a wedding dress for the occasion that will retail for $378. the option of getting what they Director of Public Relations for DENIM: Premium denim trends such as skinny cuts, high waists and want and more importantly, the national retailer. 16 suspenders might be diffi cult to translate to the masses. when they want it.” When asked exactly what BEAT: Erica Davies, design director at Development, will add her name to Patricia Pao, a retail expert and women will want in apparel the label and launch the Erica Davies Collection dress line with the fi rm. founder of The Pao Principle, a this holiday, Thompson from 17 consultancy based in New York, Talbots offers a quick hit list. Gildan Activewear said it will cut 546 jobs in the U.S. and Canada, as it agrees that gift cards are smart “Comfy velour knit separates 19 relocates production to Central America and the Caribbean. way of turning a short season for lounging, yoga, errands into a year-long celebration, and life beyond work, but also EYE which is the general life span French terry robes, soft cotton Kirsten Dunst and other celebrities felt at home on the tapestry-covered of the average card. “Gift cards knit or velour pajamas, cotton 4 lawn at the Chanel after-party for a screening of “Marie Antoinette.” offer a perpetual holiday at the turtlenecks with subtle metallic Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................22-23 recipient’s demand,” she observes. stripes, and knit mittens, gloves To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. “They foster an ongoing dialogue and scarves.” Comfort clearly [email protected], using the individual’s name. throughout the year, since your appears to be an important trend WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- both for gift giving and one’s RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. recipients are likely to call you or “A gift card is convenient and safe write you and mention what they personal shopping this holiday VOLUME 192, NO. 66. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- when you know the brand a person ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- have bought with the gift card. and cotton seems to be a key ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, likes, but aren’t sure of her size, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers It’s a gift that does not end with factor in achieving this wardrobe favorite colors or personal style Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and the holiday.” nirvana. Shoppers who choose to C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; preferences. On the receiving end, David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Clearly, women have been give apparel as a gift would be wise Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance wooed by the ease and benefits gift cards can be a sigh of relief to note that natural fibers, such Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. because you get a fun “excuse” to Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. afforded by gift cards in recent as cotton, were the preference 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable do a little indulgent shopping Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS years, and they will be snapping of 74% of female respondents, CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, them up again this year in strong for yourself” according to the Monitor. ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR — Betsy Thompson, DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four numbers. Nearly three in four Men, in particular, may wish weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Talbots Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other female respondents told the to take the aforementioned wish U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle list into consideration, since they First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions Monitor™ that they planned to purchase gift cards (at 64%) were slightly less likely than women (at and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make during the holiday season as presents for others. 72%) to say they would buy gift cards this season. our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would For the majority of women, gift cards give what Men were also less likely (at 33%) to want to receive interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. women would like to receive; according to the a gift card this season. These numbers likely reflect WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- their feelings about shopping and the fact that SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- Monitor, nearly one in two female respondents said ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, that they want to receive a gift card this season.