Page 1 Thursday s FASHION: s REVIEWS: MEDIA: The s EYE: Partying collections/fall ’09 Michael Kors, Getting ready diversity with Giorgio Narciso for the $380 quotient Armani, Rodriguez million Yves rises on Leonardo and more, Saint Laurent the New DiCaprio, the pages art auction, York Rodarte sisters 6 to 14. page 16. runways, and more, NEW page 3. page 4. YORKWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 19, 2009 • $3.00 WSportswear/Men’swDTHURSdAY Smart Moves It was ultrachic coming and going in Oscar de la Renta’s fall collection, a lineup that should delight his core customers. The look was decidedly dressed up, with plenty of citified polish. It was even set off by Judy Peabody hair, as shown by the duo here, wearing a tailored dress with a fur necklet and a fur vest over a striped skirt. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 14. Red-Carpet Economics: Oscars’ Party Goes On, Played in a Lower Key By Marcy Medina LOS ANGELES — From Sharon Stone to Ginnifer Goodwin, the 40-person table beneath the stone colonnade at the Chateau Marmont here was filled with Champagne-drinking stars. It appeared to be business as usual for Dior Beauty, back to host its sixth annual Oscar week dinner on Tuesday night. With the worldwide economy in turmoil, glamour lives in the run-up to Hollywood’s annual Academy Awards extravaganza on Sunday night, but brands are finding ways to save a buck: staging a cocktail party instead of a dinner, flying in fewer staffers or cutting back on or eliminating gift suites. Some New York-based jewelers, including Kwiat, have not returned with Oscar week suites. Others, such as Verdura, are See Oscars, Page23 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO AQUINO JOHN BY PHOTO WWD.COM WWDTHURSDSportswearAY FASHION 6 New York Fashion Week gets into full swing ™ with collections by Oscar de la Renta, Narciso Rodriguez and Michael Kors, among others. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 The run-up to Hollywood’s biggest night of the year Sunday features plenty of swag and galas galore. THE NEW HOMEBODIES 3 The global economic slowdown sent Puma AG’s Loungewear Set for Surge as “At-Homing” Grows fourth-quarter profits down 78.8 percent. 3 Italian officials have established a more compact One thing about a down economy: the thought Edmiston says Victoria’s Secret has been calendar of international trade shows. of dropping serious coin in the pursuit of fun just successful in encouraging customers to stock up on 16 Collectors are expected to descend upon Paris for does not seem so entertaining anymore. tees and tanks by offering two-for-one values. the Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé art auction. But in the same way the staycation became en “And with our sleep and lounge styles retailing vogue last summer, “at-homing” with friends or mostly between $18 and $48, our products are 17 Robert Siegel talks about his return to the helm of family is fast becoming the leisure-time activity of well priced to lift her mood but not strain her Lacoste USA after an abbreviated retirement. choice. And if women are not going to be spending wallet,” Edmiston adds. Victoria’s Secret has been 22 LIST: Best actress and best actor Oscar nominees money on cocktails and couture, they may just want introducing “soft and luxurious” styles like tissue are ranked by their appeal as actors. to spoil themselves with some cozy loungewear for jersey T- and sleepshirts, layering sweater knits and The show calendar was slimmer, but designers at all their home-style recreation. French terry and sueded jersey lounge pants. 24 Copenhagen Fashion Week reported brisk business. Belk’s Arlene Goldstein, vice-president of trend Hard Tail has adapted to the current economy by merchandising and fashion direction, says these days, offering more of its classic basics, as well as adding ISPO, the sporting goods show in Munich, attracted 26 some 60,000 visitors and nearly 2,000 exhibitors. staying at home is the new luxury. subtle details, great feminine fits Victoria Beckham “We are all craving the nurturing and a wide range of colors, says EYE that being at home with family and Dick Cantrell, owner. Top items “Being able to feel great lounging Star pals of Giorgio Armani feted his N.Y. store friends offers, especially when times include its cotton bandeau maxi s 4 at home or when going out to pick opening with a bash at the new 5th Ave. flagship. are tough,” she says. “And after dresses, subtly striped/tri-tone up a few things from the market is discarding the work day’s clothes, French terry tops whose cotton Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................27 it’s especially soothing to put on definitely a modern luxury.” blend offers a soft hand and TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS something warm and comfy.” – Gela Nash-Taylor, corresponding lounge pants. [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s name. The majority of women say they “We believe consumers will be Juicy Couture WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 are spending more on essentials drawn to our clean, classic styles FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. like utilities (57%) and groceries that will last rather than fleeting VOLUME 197, NO. 37. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and (60%) this year compared to trends as the disposable income is August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion last, according to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle just not there anymore,” Cantrell says. “We think Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY Monitor™ survey. the fact that all Hard Tail products are made in 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Since they are spending more on the necessities, the USA is another added value for the consumer Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Monitor respondents have had to scale back on during times when every dollar counts.” Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: Jockey sleepwear experienced its seventh return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: travel (74%), eating out at restaurants (64%) and SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR entertainment (62%). As retailers are well aware, consecutive year of increased sales in 2008. Milou SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box apparel purchases are down, too, for those aged 13-34 Gwyn, vice-president of domestic licensing, 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks (52%), as well as among 35-to-70 year olds (37%). attributes success to consumers focusing on nesting after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Victoria Secret’s Liz Edmiston, vice-president and spending more time appreciating the comforts Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests of merchandising for sleep and loungewear, sees of home. to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that opportunity in the downturn, saying women who “During these colder months, we typically offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or spend more time at home will want to make their see higher sales in our sleep and loungewear information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, downtime wardrobe more appealing. categories,” Gwyn says, adding that the company UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, “We do see our customers re-assessing their is very well positioned for the current economic AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, shopping habits,” she says. “She is making careful climate. “Purchasing Jockey is not perceived as an ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS choices on how to spend her money, but spending indulgence – it’s a purchase that you’ll feel good SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. time with friends and socializing are still very about for a long time.” important to her. We see Jockey’s new fabrics this as an opportunity for for spring include sueded styles that are versatile, well Categories In Which Women interlock, stretch velvet DAILY I say do what makes priced and make her feel Are Decreasing Expenditures and spring-weight French “ put together.” terry.