Michael on the Mainland
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Eyan-Allen-For-Asia-Tatler.Pdf
WHO’S THE BOSSWITH CREATIVE DIRECTOR EYAN ALLEN AT THE HELM, THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT FOR HUGO BOSS WOMENSWEAR. HE TALKS TO HELEN RUSSELL ABOUT CREATIVITY, COMMERCIAL PRESSURE AND DOING IT HIS WAY slash of red sashays down the runway as model Kasia Struss shows o! the clean lines and bold cut of this season’s new cocktail dress. Metal coloured jackets formed from layers of bonded silk look sculptural but are soft to touch. Laminated wool takes the place of leather for outerwear, while evening wear is embellished with embroidered holes that show a hint of "esh through thick wools and silks. A seriously sexy collection in metal, cream and red… it’s a masterclass in tailoring. Showing their appreciation from the front row are a smattering of celebrities – Renée Zellweger, Edward Norton, Eddie Redmayne and Pixie Geldof among others – "anked by 800 of the biggest names in fashion. The autumn/winter 2013 show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin marks Hugo’s 20th birthday and kicks o! the brand’s anniversary year. Titled ‘Re"ection’, the new collection holds up a mirror to Hugo’s luxury tailoring past as well as signposting an assured vision for its future. The brand has every reason to be con#dent right now. Under ceo Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, the German fashion house saw sales up 10 per cent for 2012, double that of the rest of the market. The label, named after its founder, has grown from a small clothing workshop to an international lifestyle group with a sales presence in 110 countries worldwide. -
Photographs of Great Rarity and Quality at Christie’S London in May
For Immediate Release Tuesday, 10 April 2012 Contact: Hannah Schmidt +44 (0) 207 389 2964 [email protected] Alex Deyzac +44 (0) 207 389 2265 [email protected] PHOTOGRAPHS OF GREAT RARITY AND QUALITY AT CHRISTIE’S LONDON IN MAY London – Christie’s Photographs sale on Wednesday 16 May features over 100 works with estimates ranging from £3,000 to £120,000. The sale brings the story of photography closer to the present with some of the most recognisable contemporary practitioners: a diptych by Andreas Gursky, who currently holds the auction record for the medium, entitled Schiesser, Diptych, 1991 (estimate: £80,000– 120,000, illustrated above); Hiroshi Sugimoto’s Guggenheim Museum, New York, 1997 (estimate: £70,000– 90,000, illustrated on page 2) and Helmut Newton’s large format Self-Portrait with Wife and Models ‘Vogue’ Studios, Paris 1980, measuring 139.7 x 144.8 cm (estimate: £70,000–90,000, illustrated bottom left). This is an opportunity to acquire some of the most important works of the history of photography, with works by 19th century masters, and a strong focus on post-war and fashion photography, led by the work of Irving Penn, Helmut Newton and Peter Beard. The incredible roll call of subjects captured includes Picasso, Greta Garbo, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Marilyn Monroe, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Barack Obama. Important and rare post-war works include a photograph by Constantin Brancusi from the series Bird in Space, 1923, (estimate: £6,000–8,000), which depicts one of the most expensive sculptures ever sold at auction (Christie’s New York, 2005). -
Issue: Fashion Industry Fashion Industry
Issue: Fashion Industry Fashion Industry By: Vickie Elmer Pub. Date: January 16, 2017 Access Date: October 1, 2021 DOI: 10.1177/237455680302.n1 Source URL: http://businessresearcher.sagepub.com/sbr-1863-101702-2766972/20170116/fashion-industry ©2021 SAGE Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved. ©2021 SAGE Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Can it adapt to changing times? Executive Summary The global fashion business is going through a period of intense change and competition, with disruption coming in many colors: global online marketplaces, slower growth, more startups and consumers who now seem bored by what once excited them. Many U.S. shoppers have grown tired of buying Prada and Chanel suits and prefer to spend their money on experiences rather than clothes. Questions about fashion companies’ labor and environmental practices are leading to new policies, although some critics remain unconvinced. Fashion still relies on creativity, innovation and consumer attention, some of which comes from technology and some from celebrities. Here are some key takeaways: High-fashion brands must now compete with “fast fashion,” apparel sold on eBay and vintage sites. Risk factors for fashion companies include China’s growth slowdown, reduced global trade, Brexit, terrorist attacks and erratic commodity prices. Plus-size women are a growing segment of the market, yet critics say designers are ignoring them. Overview José Neves launched Farfetch during the global economic crisis of 2008, drawing more on his background in IT and software than a love of fashion. His idea: Allow small designers and fashion shops to sell their wares worldwide on a single online marketplace. The site will “fetch” fashion from far-off places. -
The Aesthetics of Mainstream Androgyny
The Aesthetics of Mainstream Androgyny: A Feminist Analysis of a Fashion Trend Rosa Crepax Goldsmiths, University of London Thesis submitted for the degree of Ph.D. in Sociology May 2016 1 I confirm that the work presented in this thesis is my own. Rosa Crepax Acknowledgements I would like to thank Bev Skeggs for making me fall in love with sociology as an undergraduate student, for supervising my MA dissertation and encouraging me to pursue a PhD. For her illuminating guidance over the years, her infectious enthusiasm and the constant inspiration. Beckie Coleman for her ongoing intellectual and moral support, all the suggestions, advice and the many invaluable insights. Nirmal Puwar, my upgrade examiner, for the helpful feedback. All the women who participated in my fieldwork for their time, patience and interest. Francesca Mazzucchi for joining me during my fieldwork and helping me shape my methodology. Silvia Pezzati for always providing me with sunshine. Laura Martinelli for always being there when I needed, and Martina Galli, Laura Satta and Miriam Barbato for their friendship, despite the distance. My family, and, in particular, my mum for the support and the unpaid editorial services. And finally, Goldsmiths and everyone I met there for creating an engaging and stimulating environment. Thank you. Abstract Since 2010, androgyny has entered the mainstream to become one of the most widespread trends in Western fashion. Contemporary androgynous fashion is generally regarded as giving a new positive visibility to alternative identities, and signalling their wider acceptance. But what is its significance for our understanding of gender relations and living configurations of gender and sexuality? And how does it affect ordinary people's relationship with style in everyday life? Combining feminist theory and an aesthetics that contrasts Kantian notions of beauty to bridge matters of ideology and affect, my research investigates the sociological implications of this phenomenon. -
Reminder List of Productions Eligible for the 90Th Academy Awards Alien
REMINDER LIST OF PRODUCTIONS ELIGIBLE FOR THE 90TH ACADEMY AWARDS ALIEN: COVENANT Actors: Michael Fassbender. Billy Crudup. Danny McBride. Demian Bichir. Jussie Smollett. Nathaniel Dean. Alexander England. Benjamin Rigby. Uli Latukefu. Goran D. Kleut. Actresses: Katherine Waterston. Carmen Ejogo. Callie Hernandez. Amy Seimetz. Tess Haubrich. Lorelei King. ALL I SEE IS YOU Actors: Jason Clarke. Wes Chatham. Danny Huston. Actresses: Blake Lively. Ahna O'Reilly. Yvonne Strahovski. ALL THE MONEY IN THE WORLD Actors: Christopher Plummer. Mark Wahlberg. Romain Duris. Timothy Hutton. Charlie Plummer. Charlie Shotwell. Andrew Buchan. Marco Leonardi. Giuseppe Bonifati. Nicolas Vaporidis. Actresses: Michelle Williams. ALL THESE SLEEPLESS NIGHTS AMERICAN ASSASSIN Actors: Dylan O'Brien. Michael Keaton. David Suchet. Navid Negahban. Scott Adkins. Taylor Kitsch. Actresses: Sanaa Lathan. Shiva Negar. AMERICAN MADE Actors: Tom Cruise. Domhnall Gleeson. Actresses: Sarah Wright. AND THE WINNER ISN'T ANNABELLE: CREATION Actors: Anthony LaPaglia. Brad Greenquist. Mark Bramhall. Joseph Bishara. Adam Bartley. Brian Howe. Ward Horton. Fred Tatasciore. Actresses: Stephanie Sigman. Talitha Bateman. Lulu Wilson. Miranda Otto. Grace Fulton. Philippa Coulthard. Samara Lee. Tayler Buck. Lou Lou Safran. Alicia Vela-Bailey. ARCHITECTS OF DENIAL ATOMIC BLONDE Actors: James McAvoy. John Goodman. Til Schweiger. Eddie Marsan. Toby Jones. Actresses: Charlize Theron. Sofia Boutella. 90th Academy Awards Page 1 of 34 AZIMUTH Actors: Sammy Sheik. Yiftach Klein. Actresses: Naama Preis. Samar Qupty. BPM (BEATS PER MINUTE) Actors: 1DKXHO 3«UH] %LVFD\DUW $UQDXG 9DORLV $QWRLQH 5HLQDUW] )«OL[ 0DULWDXG 0«GKL 7RXU« Actresses: $GªOH +DHQHO THE B-SIDE: ELSA DORFMAN'S PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BABY DRIVER Actors: Ansel Elgort. Kevin Spacey. Jon Bernthal. Jon Hamm. Jamie Foxx. -
Christy Turlington Burns Hopeful for Change in U.S. Maternal Health
CANADIAN PRESS, MAY 14, 2011 Christy Turlington Burns hopeful for change in U.S. maternal health TORONTO — Former supermodel Christy Turlington Burns says statistics on maternal mortality in the U.S. are "quite shocking," but she's hopeful new legislation will improve the situation. Turlington Burns has become an advocate for better global maternal health care in recent years, after a complication with the delivery of her first child prompted her to explore the cause and make the documentary "No Woman, No Cry". The film follows at-risk pregnant women in several parts of the world, including the U.S., where — according to the documentary — two women die each day from a pregnancy-related complication, and one in five women of reproductive age has no health insurance. Turlington Burns, who's also spearheading the Every Mother Counts campaign, says she's hopeful the Maternal Health Accountability Act introduced in the U.S. House of Representatives last month by Rep. John Conyers of Michigan will improve the situation. "That has the potential to, I think, make a big difference," she said Friday in an interview before the Canadian public premiere of the doc, which marks her directorial debut, at Bell Lightbox. "In the United States, it's such an enormous country, as is Canada, and it's very hard to collect data and consolidate data so that people really understand how deaths are happening and why they're happening and really understand what's happening, state-by-state review boards and whatnot. So it has the promise to do that," she said. -
Marcas E Editoriais De Moda Em Diferentes Nichos De Revistas Especializadas
UNIVERSIDADE DA BEIRA INTERIOR Engenharia Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas O caso Vogue, i-D e Dazed & Confused Joana Miguel Ramires Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Design de Moda (2º ciclo de estudos) Orientador: Prof. Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira Covilhã, Outubro de 2012 Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas II Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas Agradecimentos Ao longo do percurso que resultou na realização deste trabalho, foram várias as pessoas que ajudaram a desenvolve-lo e que disponibilizaram o seu apoio e amizade. Desta forma, o primeiro agradecimento vai para a orientadora, Professora Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira, que desde o início foi incansável. Agradeço-lhe pela disponibilidade, compreensão, por me ter guiado da melhor forma por entre todas as dúvidas e problemas que foram surgindo, e por fim, pela força de vontade e entusiamo que me transmitiu. A todos os técnicos e colaboradores dos laboratórios e ateliês do departamento de engenharia têxtil da Universidade da Beira Interior agradeço o seu apoio e os ensinamentos transmitidos ao longo da minha vida académica. Agradeço em especial á D. Lucinda pela sua amizade, e pelo seu apoio constante ao longo destes anos. Às duas pessoas mais importantes da minha vida, pai e mãe agradeço do fundo do coração por todo o amor, carinho, compreensão, e por todos os sacrifícios que fizeram, de modo a me permitirem chegar ao final de mais esta etapa de estudos. Aos meus avós e restante família que também têm sido um pilar fundamental na minha vida a todos os níveis, os meus sinceros agradecimentos. -
Gaucho Cool for Their Proenza Schouler Collection, Sliced with Fascinating Fabric Play and a Vaguely Seventies Sophistication
ROUND SQUEEZE HOME TWO PLAY AGAIN OSCAR DE LA RENTA ART BASEL MIAMI GIAMBATTISTA DOES ANOTHER HITS ITS HIGH VALLI REVEALS COLLECTION FOR NOTE WITH PACKED PLANS TO OPEN A THE OUTNET. PARTIES GALORE. MILAN FLAGSHIP. PAGE 11 PAGE 10 PAGE 8 SPINNING OFF LANDS’ END Lampert’s Sears: An Unwinding Tale By VICKI M. YOUNG TIME APPEARS to be running out for Edward S. Lampert. Lampert is chairman and chief executive of- ficer of Sears Holding Corp. and chairman of ESL Investments, which holds a 48.4 percent stake in MONDAY, DECEMBER 9, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Sears. Last week he faced a blow when Goldman WWD Sachs pulled $3.5 billion out of ESL, cutting the funds ESL has under management by more than 60 percent and, as a result, reducing his stake in Sears to below 50 percent since part of the payout was in Sears stock. On Friday, Lampert had to once again shuffle Sears’ assets in order to bolster the ailing retailer’s balance sheet. The hedge fund manager is spinning off Lands’ End, making that division a public company once again. [For more on the spin-off, see sidebar, page 7]. No word yet on the future of Sears Auto Center busi- ness, which the company has been considering divest- ing to raise further funds to keep Sears operating. Even after the latest spin-off, Lampert will still have 48.4 percent of Lands’ End and there is little doubt he and his investors have profited handsomely Gaucho from the Sears investment. -
2018 Impact Report
2018 IMPACT REPORT Dina and daughter, Kiteto, Tanzania LETTER FROM OUR FOUNDER 2018 IMPACT HIGHLIGHTS Never in recent history has the issue of maternal health in the United States been more important. Over the last two decades, maternal mortality rates have doubled In 2018, EMC achieved in the U.S., and rates of potentially fatal complications of pregnancy and childbirth the following milestones: 2 have also risen sharply. U.S. federal maternal Our team worked harder than ever in 2018 to health bills signed into law accelerate our work and address the contributing factors to these staggering and unacceptable statistics. We kicked the year off by participating in New Jersey’s first-ever Maternal Health Awareness Day, followed by a Capitol Hill briefing where we partnered with the American College of Nurse-Midwives, the American College of Christy (center) in Tokyo at the finish line Obstetricians and Gynecologists and others to 25 200 627 of her 8th TeamEMC marathon. brief Congress on the need to address shortages of maternity care providers in rural and urban films, screenings health facilities equipped health workers and areas. We supported Black Mamas Matter Alliance’s inaugural Black Maternal Health Week and events with portable solar power advocates trained and joined advocates and providers to raise national awareness in the second annual March for Moms in Washington D.C. We worked with lawmakers to push maternal health to the top of their agendas and, as a result, ended the year with a number of wins. The Governor of New York instituted Maternal Health Awareness Week and two federal bills were signed into law: the Preventing Maternal Deaths Act that aims to help states review pregnancy-related deaths and complications to save lives going forward, and the Improving Access to Maternity Act, By investing legislation that directs the government to identify and fill shortages of obstetricians and midwives. -
EXTENDING AESTHETIC HORIZONS: Christie’S London Photographs Sale in November 2008
For Immediate Release Monday, 20 October 2008 Contact: Hannah Schmidt +44 (0) 207 389 2964 [email protected] EXTENDING AESTHETIC HORIZONS: Christie’s London Photographs Sale in November 2008 Photographs Wednesday, 19 November 2008 Christie’s King Street London - Inspiring, informing and extending aesthetic horizons, Christie’s Photographs Department continues its unprecedented programme DISTINCTIVELY. This carefully curated series features photo-based works from specific regions which are sold-out and no longer available on the primary market, by established and emerging artists. Following the success of Distinctively Japanese at Christie’s in May 2008, the spotlight of Christie’s 19 November auction focuses on contemporary Nordic and Dutch artists. Elsewhere in the sale, highly desirable shots of famous faces include Kate Moss, Britney Spears, Angelina Jolie, Gisele Bündchen, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. Presenting a tightly edited selection of over 90 lots, with estimates ranging from £3,000 to £220,000, the sale is expected to realise in the region of £1 million. Famous Faces of the Glamorous and Beautiful Famous faces from the silver screen and the catwalk never fail to delight, symbolising glamour and beauty. The classic photograph Woman in Moroccan Palace (Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn), Marrakech, 1951, by Irving Penn (estimate: £180,000-220,000) is the top lot in the sale, illustrated left. In contrast, Martin Schoeller inverts accepted and expected beauty in Angelina Jolie with Blood, 2003 (estimate: £15,000-20,000) illustrated above centre. A challenging image, it is from an edition of seven which is sold-out on the primary market. Seductive shots include the fresh faced 17-year-old Britney Spears in Baby, 1999, by David LaChapelle for Rolling Stone (estimate: £15,000-20,000) and Albert Watson’s oversized crouching nude, Kate Moss, Marrakech, January, 1993 (estimate: £15,000-20,000), commissioned for German Vogue. -
Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines
Chair of Urban Studies and Social Research Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism Bauhaus-University Weimar Fashion in the City and The City in Fashion: Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines Doctoral dissertation presented in fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor philosophiae (Dr. phil.) Maria Skivko 10.03.1986 Supervising committee: First Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Frank Eckardt, Bauhaus-University, Weimar Second Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Stephan Sonnenburg, Karlshochschule International University, Karlsruhe Thesis Defence: 22.01.2018 Contents Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................. 5 Thesis Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 6 Part I. Conceptual Approach for Studying Fashion and City: Theoretical Framework ........................ 16 Chapter 1. Fashion in the city ................................................................................................................ 16 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 16 1.1. Fashion concepts in the perspective ........................................................................................... 18 1.1.1. Imitation and differentiation ................................................................................................ 18 1.1.2. Identity -
Be Fabulous (Or Else) Roxanne Lowit Discusses Her New Exhibition of Photos from Behind-The-Fashion-Scene
Be Fabulous (Or Else) Roxanne Lowit discusses her new exhibition of photos from behind-the-fashion-scene. December 17, 2013 1:56 PM | by Ann Binlot The legendary fashion and celebrity photographer Roxanne Lowit found her calling in the late ‘70s when her friend, the late fashion illustratorAntonio Lopez, gave her an Instamatic 110 camera. Soon after, Lowit, who had been working as a textile designer, established the art of backstage photography when she became one of the first to document the hectic scene behind the scene at a Halston show. “I didn’t look like a photographer,” recalled Lowit. “Photographers had these big safari jackets on with huge cameras and lenses hanging off them, and I was much thinner, and wore dresses then and color, and was quite stylish.” Lowit would go on to capture the fashion world at close range, from the Bacchanalian nights when Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld ruled the Paris fashion scene — “People would dance all night and think they’d live forever,” she remembered — to the height of supermodel stardom in the ‘90s to John Galliano’s Dior couture shows in the aughts to the drag queen scene of the twenty-tens. Now, her photos from the last four decades are the subject of the exhibition “Roxanne Lowit: Be Fabulous,” on view through January 18, 2014, at Steven Kasher Gallery in New York. In one iconic image from 1990, supermodels Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, and Naomi Campbell fool around in a bathtub at the Ritz in Paris. “I don’t know how they got in there, if they got in themselves, or if I encouraged it, or what,” said Lowit.