Michael on the Mainland
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CALVIN’S SPEAKING COUPLE SUKI SUKI CHRISTY TURLINGTON WATERHOUSE BURNS AND HUSBAND TALKS ABOUT ED BURNS ARE FEATURED MODELING, TALKING ABOUT MOM IN THE NEW AD PARTYING DESIGNERS REVEAL THEIR FAVORITE CAMPAIGN FOR CALVIN AND MORE. MEMORIES OF THEIR MOTHERS. PAGE 13 KLEIN ETERNITY. PAGE 9 PAGE 14 WWDFRIDAY, MAY 9, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY RETAIL’S MIXED MESSAGE Comps Rise Sharply But Picture Murky Even so, the RetailNext study By ARNOLD J. KARR also offered a ray of hope. Chitra and EVAN CLARK Balasubramanian, head of busi- ness analytics at RetailNext, said HIT AND MISS. shoppers were spending more That seems to be the retail once they opened their wallets. trend these days as April compa- The average transaction value rable-store sales figures released rose 2.8 percent in April and sales Thursday showed a strong uptick per shopper inched up 0.5 percent. while other data sounded a more Taking March and April togeth- bearish note. er to eliminate any impact from An exclusive look at a Easter’s later timing versus last RetailNext study of point-of-sale year, RetailNext found that sales and customer traffic data from for the two months fell 6.9 percent more than 14 million shopping as traffic dipped 5 percent. trips around the country found that “It’s not so great on one hand sales and traffic at apparel and ac- that traffic is down, but on the cessories retailers fell 2.1 percent other hand, it’s a pretty good sign last month while the number of that those who are making it into transactions declined 4.5 percent. SEE PAGE 4 Jennifer Aniston Discusses Business, Hair and Beauty Christian Louboutin By JULIE pumps, relaxed in NAUGHTON her chair onstage as she noted that PALM BEACH, Fla. — the reappearance of One surprising thing the medium-brown was missing from shade she had grow- Jennifer Aniston’s ing up was the result signature style of her serious role Thursday afternoon: in 2015’s “Cake,” in her trademark tou- which she stars as sled blonde coif. Claire Simmons, who “This is the way is trying to get her God created me,” Jennifer life back in order Aniston said with a Aniston after a serious ac- chuckle as she ad- cident. Aniston also dressed the executives gathered executive produced the film, here for WWD’s Beauty CEO which she wrapped Wednesday. Michael On Summit. While her usual blonde The hair might have been differ- is likely to soon return, Aniston, ent, but Aniston’s signature smile clad in a gray Dior dress and SEE PAGE 6 The Mainland Michael Kors is in Shanghai for what his brand calls its biggest event ever tonight, a “Jet Set” extravaganza at Hongqiao International Airport. On Thursday, he hosted an opening party for his Shanghai flagship, the brand’s largest in China. As for his interaction with the locals, Kors seemed pleased: “It’s a nice kind of recognized. I don’t have to deal with, you know, paparazzi on scooters and all that jazz. People ask for a selfie, people ask for a picture and they leave it at that.” For more, see pages 10 and 11. PHOTO BY JACKSON LOWEN 2 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 9, 2014 WWD.COM Alessandro Benetton Steps Aside THE BRIEFING BOX delist from the Milan Stock Exchange after 26 years By LUISA ZARGANI and as the Italian textile and clothing manufacturer IN TODAY’S WWD and retailer was battling changing consumer tastes, MILAN — Alessandro Benetton is taking a step rising raw material costs and the weak economies back from his role as chairman of the family-owned of Europe, especially Italy, its largest market. Benetton Group SpA and, for the first time in the Alessandro Benetton has been instrumental in set- YORK history of the 49-year old company, a non-family ting in motion changes at the group, such as the cre- NEW member will lead the business. ation and differentiation of three new areas at the OF Following a board meeting on Thursday, Gianni company — managing brands, manufacturing and real CITY Mion was appointed non-executive chairman. Mion estate. At the end of the process, all three entities will THE remains vice chairman of the Benetton family’s be directly controlled by Edizione. Benetton has also OF holding Edizione Srl, whose investments range from been pivotal in disrupting the company’s history of highway catering and communications to real estate family management. His goal was always to create a and agriculture. A longtime go-to executive for the company led by management independent of the family. MUSEUM Benettons, Mion sits on the board of other family “I have been the detonator for discontinuity, mak- investments, including Autogrill SpA, Eurostazioni ing things happen and further separating sharehold- SpA, World Duty Free SpA and Sintonia SpA. ers and management,” he told WWD last year. On Thursday, Marco Airoldi was nominated chief The executive has been focusing on the United ROSE/COURTESY executive officer, succeeding Biagio Chiarolanza, Colors of Benetton label and the bridge, more- confirming a report last month. This new governance fashion oriented Sisley brand, divesting other AARON An image of Coney Island from the Aaron BY model is in line with the one historically present in monikers such as Playlife and Killer Loop. As part Rose exhibit. For more, see WWD.com. all the companies controlled by Edizione and ap- of a three-year program, the company is streamlin- PHOTO plies to all the subsidiaries of Benetton Group. ing its structure to become more competitive and The Italian fashion company also appointed a improve its profitability, with plans to exit about new board, which includes Alessandro Benetton, 60 countries that are no longer deemed strategic. Despite solid comp gains from some firms, April sales fell 2.1 Christian Benetton, Franca Bertagnin Benetton, The group is also further developing its accessories Sabrina Benetton, Mion, Airoldi, Tommaso and additional licenses, following the fragrance percent, according to RetailNext. PAGE 1 Barracco, Fabio Buttignon, Alfredo Malguzzi, revealed last year with Puig Group. Last month, Francesco Panfilo and Sandro Saccardi. the company unveiled its new United Colors of Jennifer Aniston on Thursday spoke about Living Proof at Alessandro Benetton returns to being execu- Benetton concept store at the historic and cen- WWD’s Beauty CEO Summit in Palm Beach, Fla. PAGE 1 tive chairman of private equity fund 21 Partners, tral unit in Milan’s Piazza Duomo, overlooking the which he founded in 1992 and was then called Gothic cathedral, as it also revealed plans to in- Li & Fung has tapped Wall Street veteran Deborah Weinswig to 21 Investimenti. He took on the leading position crease its focus on the women’s category, designed be its eyes and ears in the world of technology. PAGE 4 at Benetton in April 2012, succeeding his father by new creative director Valentina Soster. Luciano Benetton, who had overseen the company Last year, revenues decreased 10 percent from Bumble and bumble is weighing in on — but hoping not to for 47 years. The shift came as Edizione decided to 1.8 billion euros, or $2.3 billion, in 2012. weigh down — beauty’s growing oil category. PAGE 8 Christy Turlington Burns is returning as the face of Calvin Klein Eternity women’s fragrance. PAGE 9 Isaac Mizrahi Gets Into E-commerce Game Michael Kors is visiting Mainland China for the first time to cashmere, silk blouses and mi- leg of a four-pronged strategy. By VICKI M. YOUNG host a “Jet Set” event in Shanghai. PAGE 10 kado dresses and classic denim. For now, fulfillment will be “This marks the beginning of from its freestanding stores in The National Jewelry Institute held its 10th anniversary gala ISAAC MIZRAHI has a new way the implementation of our so- Southampton, N.Y., and Atlanta. in New York on Wednesday night. PAGE 12 to connect with his customers: cial media strategy for Isaac....We Items not available from the the Isaac Mizrahi New York e- want our Isaac Mizrahi customer stores will be filled from the commerce site. to experience one brand in all the brand’s licensees. Time Inc., the publishing arm of Time Warner, has pegged June Robert D’Loren, chairman channels, with one consistent expe- According to D’Loren, the 6 as its date to go public. PAGE 12 and chief executive officer of company plans to open at least Xcel Brands Inc., which owns the two more freestanding stores Jill Granoff and Brooke Shields were among the recipients of Mizrahi brand, said the purpose before yearend. Those locations Outstanding Mother Awards at a luncheon in New York. PAGE 13 of isaacmizrahi.com was to cre- will likely be in areas across the ate one central location that can country that could help with fill- Suki Waterhouse cohosted a dinner Wednesday coinciding showcase product available from ing online orders at shorter dis- with the Frieze Art Fair. PAGE 14 the brand, while at the same time tances, D’Loren said. allow the designer to speak with The plan is to have the online Ryan Korban’s new book was toasted Tuesday at Alexander his customers. offerings be more extensive than Wang’s store in Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood. PAGE 14 To that end, the site in the what’s in the stores. The Isaac fall will launch a module hous- Mizrahi Black and Pink labels are Christian Dior’s Sidney Toledano threw a dinner in Manhattan ing social media feeds, video different lines from those sold in after the brand’s cruise show in Brooklyn.