CATCHING UP WITH THE PREPPING CANDIDATES THEIR TAKE ON IN PARIS THE ISSUES AND IT’S CRUNCH TIME AS THEIR STYLE. THE MEN’S WEAR SHOWS PAGE 5 BEGIN IN THE CITY OF ON THE LIGHT. PAGE MW1 WWD Campaign 2012

THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

STRENGTHENING THE RANKS Puig Taps Ralph Toledano To Lead Way at Gaultier the international fashion scene. By MILES SOCHA Toledano is to report to Manuel Puig, vice chairman of family-owned PARIS — Putting more manage- Puig, who said he would continue to ment muscle behind its Paris-based be based out of Paris and involved fashion houses, Puig has tapped in Puig’s fashion businesses. former Chloé chairman and chief Puig had relocated to Paris in executive officer Ralph Toledano 2008 and orchestrated a hands-on to lead development at Jean Paul turnaround at Ricci, while also Gaultier, effective Jan. 30. functioning as interim president at Toledano is expected to add Nina Gaultier. Ricci to his responsibilities in about In a joint interview at Ricci head- a year’s time. In addition to his new quarters on Wednesday, Toledano position at Puig, Toledano will con- and Puig shared their ambitions to tinue to serve as chairman of St. bring Gaultier’s fashion business John, where he was appointed last in line with the designer’s acclaim, August, for the foreseeable future. design prowess and cult following. At Puig, the high-profile hire fol- “He’s by far the most talented de- lows its acquisition of a majority signer of his generation. There’s no stake in Gaultier last May, and un- one who can interpret the Parisian derscores how the Barcelona-based better than Jean Paul,” Toledano company is aiming to become a big- enthused. “The business could be ger and more formidable player on more important than it is today. SEE PAGE 4 Tech the Talk at NRF Ton; “bifurcation” where strength By SHARON EDELSON at luxury players on one end, and value players on the other, keeps NEW YORK — Adapt or die. getting more pronounced; and “om- That was the message to brick- ni-channel,” the strategy retailers and-mortar retailers at the 101st must deploy to satisfy consumers annual National Retail Federation increasingly using mobile devices Convention and Expo that ended and social media to determine here on Wednesday. Befitting an shopping choices. “A brand today event with more than its share of that does not engage in a two-way tech exhibitors and sponsors, many dialogue with consumers is a dying speakers focused on topics such as brand,” said Ken Seiff, executive e-commerce, mobile apps and so- vice president, direct and omni- cial shopping. channel, Brooks Brothers. Buzzwords at the convention Anxiousness outweighed op- included “restructuring,” seen timism at the convention, where as the destiny for Sears and Bon- concerns among the crowd of SEE PAGE 8 Victorian Gypsy

Sarah Burton looked to the Victorian era for the Alexander McQueen pre-fall collection, injecting a gypsy vibe along the way. That gave way to waist-cinched riding jackets, dramatic capelike coats and, as shown here, an exquisite off-the-shoulder tulle gown with a bodice embellished in dense embroidery. For more from the season, see pages 6 and 7.

PHOTO BY ANDREA DELBO version version of this column and other relevant information can be found at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com. of the company’s industrial indicators including its Retail Monitor and Supply Chain Insights analyses. Incorporated A the from Cotton digital This article is one in a series that appears in these pages on Thursdays. The data contained is based on findings J decade-and-a-half. past the of changes influential of the some at back alook take we version, printed the to farewell bid we As www.cottonlifestylemonitor.com. at online exclusively found be will analyses, industry other habits. and Monitor Lifestyle the however, attitudes February, in Beginning of WWD. issue Thursday the in consumer in shared been have findings these years, of those most For consistencies and changes Incorporated Cotton the 17 years, For exciting. more change measuring of science the making rapidly, more occurring is Change (89%) Monitor the of denim, (92%) durability and quality the praise they though less. purchase purchase to to plan plan 15% 15% just while and more category, the for well bodes which 12 months, previous the in did they as jeans of amount same the on purchasing plan consumers purchased they to Monitor said 13% while according less, purchased year, they said 28% more and previous the in they as did months 12 last the in jeans of items. amount same the novelty as well as accessories and outerwear, logo.” the as jackets,a multitude of product well offerings—shirts, as are hardware the premium course, of into And denim vedge. basic sel- with denim denim, raw denim, evolved Japanese like terms have that changes The basement. adenim closet, bar,a denim a denim it’s “Maybe adding, he says, point,focal a destination,” a as denim used have stores specialty and department offering. lifestyle a to modity or com- promotional category abasic gone from has denim ofworld the says Group, Tom the Julian owns who consultant retail and expert 1995. in pairs six from slightly up only pairs, seven own about owns consumer consumers U.S. typical all for almost The jeans. of behaviors fact, pair one least at In and years. 17 attitudes last the consumer tracking been has Cotton Incorporated Cotton Incorporated say they “love or enjoy” wearing denim, to according the truth.” and emotion bility, simplicity, honesty, dura- embodies of jeans pair great A item of clothing. other by any matched rarely is that of freedom a sense deliver they “They design. time; of our essence the capture men’s Levi’s of head robe,” Kirby, says Jonathan global baby their solution for the modern day ward- with affair grow. to love continues only Americans’ blues and waned, never Regular UpdatestoaClassicKeep ita Wardrobe Staple Forever Denim in Consumers plan to make these new purchases even even purchases new these to make plan Consumers purchased they say out of 10 six consumers Almost has denim means factor lifestyle the adds Julian years, five last the “In trend the TomJulian, Among U.S. consumers, nearly three-fourths (74%) three-fourths nearly consumers, U.S. Among ultimate the provide “Jeans allure may have changed over the years, but it has but it has years, over the changed have may allure Denim’s it grungy. made Cobain Kurt and sexy; it made Shields Brooke it cool; made Dean ames data. Over the next 12 months, 70% of 12 months, next the Over data. Lifestyle Monitor Lifestyle Lifestyle Lifestyle Monitor Lifestyle Monitor survey reveals, perhaps perhaps reveals, survey ™ Survey has measured measured has ™ Survey weekly columns, and and columns, weekly 67 Consumers’ Feelings Consumers’ About Denim ™ Survey, which which Survey, ™ Jonathan Kirby, Levi’s “ and stand the test of time. test the stand and 1995 % 26 ™ survey, a consumer attitudinal study, as well as upon other other upon as well as study, attitudinal consumer a survey, ™ Great jeans age with grace grace with age jeans Great % 6 Source: CottonLifestyleMonitor.com % Denim isnotforme Don’t wear much denim Love/enjoy wearing denim 70 2000 % 25 1995–2011 % 4 % 73 cut cut (10%) and fit classic (9%), to according the (22%), (13%),(38%), loose by regular followed boot the Ready-To-Wear designer,” says. Julian than more so creative… and expressive experimental, category. the into newness toinfuse work constantly that tobrands part due in when when buying the jeans, (98%) factors consumers for U.S. important most the in that an authentic way.”manifest Fit are and comfort jeans ID Curve Levi’s and are, bodies their beautiful how validate to “Womenelse don’t anyone need says. a woman’s shape,” Archaumbault celebrate to to.” well really ID program continues. respond “The line was men conceived that fit new has cool and waist effortless, the below sits “It It’s leg. atapered an top at with fit slouchy a laid-back, Taper. newly the 520™ and production; during water introduced less uses which jean, Water

PHOTO BY VALERIE MACON/GETTY IMAGES 212-630-5883. to request the DAILY,WEAR WOMEN’S to Jill Bright, Officer; Chief Financial November,and TO CHANGES SEND ADDRESS . O P. to addresses Canadian undeliverable return Post: Canada No. Agreement Mail Publications Post Canada Jr., Inc. Publishers holidays, CHANGES, ADDRESS 91615-5008, within mailed be will subscription a label. you 203, VOLUME COPYRIGHT ©2012FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. F, O LOSS OR RETURN . O P. we that and services W b, We Wide WWD ISA [email protected], TO E-MAILREPORTERSANDEDITORSAT WWD, [email protected]. MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUSTBE ACCOMPANIED BYA TO REQUESTED SPECIFICALLY UNLESS MANUSCRIPTS,SUBMITTING BUT year. one within address corrected King Jaime H. Chairman; Charles 15008, Box ever are undeliverable, is magazine your that us alerts Office Post the If Subscribers: NOT South Carolinaprimary. drawn distinctionsonkeyissuesintherun-upto The fiveremainingGOP it lessrestrictive. people entrustedtoherguardianshipandmake Bettencourt’s A beginning Feb. 8. Target storesacrossAustraliaforValentine’s Day, Von in anticipationofLondon2012SummerOlympics. Adidas OriginalshasnewcollaborationwithOpeningCeremony in 2011,accordingtoaDigitalLuxuryGroupsurvey. timepieces bythenumberofInternetsearchesforfirsttime China surpassedtheU.S. the NationalRetailFederation ConventionandExpo. Adapt ordiewasthemessage Toledano toruntheJeanPaul Gaultierbusiness. Puig lookstoaddmuscle not beabletodeliveritsspring-summercollection. Retailers wereinformed campaign, whichfeaturesmodelBaptisteRadufe. Yves SaintLaurent CIT issaidtobeapprovingordersagain. Sears HoldingsCorp. is onviewthroughMarch10. the “Joaquin Sorolla&TheGloryofSpanishDress”exhibit,which Oscar delaRenta Talley andAndréLeon first fullready-to-wear collection. Milanese tailoredclothinglabelUmanisreadytorolloutits the CapsuleshowinNewYork. start totheNewYear andlentbuyersanupbeatattitudeat Sturdy holidaysales French AppealsCourtrejected March, in issue additional one with

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WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 3 WWD.COM

Forever 21 shoppers. China Tops in Luxe Timepiece Searches Below: Larry Meyer.

models all appeared in the top 10. The Jaeger- By Joelle DiDerich lecoultre reverso slid to third position, having previously held the top spot in the ranking for GeNeVA — china surpassed the U.S. as the three consecutive years. leading market for luxury timepieces by the reflecting the influence of emerging mar- number of internet searches for the first time kets, the most popular brand ambassador was in 2011, accounting for a quarter of all search- again indian cricketer Sachin Tendulkar at es mentioning top watch brands, a survey pub- Audemars Piguet, who single-handedly cap-

lished today showed. Jones china nabbed the top spot for the first time since the study Gareth

launched in 2004, reflecting the by purchasing power of its increas- ingly affluent population. Photos Digital luxury Group, pre- viously known as ic-Agency, published results for the 15 Forever 21 Sets Sights brands in the “haute horlo- gerie” category of its World Watch report to coincide with the Sihh trade fair On Beijing and Shanghai here, which ends its five- day run on Friday. The By JoYce MAN full edition of the report, which covers 40 brands, will hoNG koNG — Forever 21, which opened its first store in this city be released in March at the Wednesday, is plotting future growth in china. Baselworld fair. The American fast-fashion chain plans to open in Beijing and The poll found that china Shanghai this year, and executive vice president larry Meyer said accounted for 24.9 percent of the brand could open many more stores searches last year, versus 21.2 in the country over the next decade. This percent for the U.S., which saw a is Forever 21’s second attempt at china, 5 percentage point decrease ver- where it briefly operated a single store. sus 2010. The retailer, which korean Do Won “Search patterns in china tend chang started in los Angeles in 1984, to be strongly related to price inqui- opened its flagship just ahead of the cru- ries,” said Florent Bondoux, man- Zenith and Patek Philippe were two of the top brands searched. cial chinese New Year shopping period ager of the strategy and intelligence next week. currently, shoppers can ac- business unit of Digital luxury Group. “contrary tured 26.6 percent of all searches, outpac- cess three floors of the 51,000-square-foot to assumptions, they are not very interested in ing famous faces like soccer player lionel complex. After the grand opening later in counterfeits.” Messi, actor Gerard Butler and tennis star the spring, all six floors will be open and iWc, Patek Philippe and Zenith continued to rafael Nadal. subbrands including heritage 1981, love grab the lion’s share of brand searches world- According to the survey, watch fans are in- 21 and Tween will be available. wide with a collective market share of more than creasingly using their smartphones and other Speaking a day ahead of the soft open- 50 percent, the study found. mobile devices to access information, particu- ing, Meyer said the company could open They were followed, in decreasing order, by larly in Japan, where mobile searches account “many stores” in china in the next 10 Jaeger-lecoultre, Vacheron constantin and for 45 percent of the total, versus 16.6 percent in years. There could be “more in Shanghai, more in Beijing, more in Audemars Piguet, who gained market share at the U.S. hong kong…as well as in many more cities in china,” he said, de- the expense of smaller brands such as Breguet, iWc led the pack on Facebook with more than clining to quantify how many stores the retailer could open. Franck Muller and Blancpain. 220,000 fans and a high engagement rate, though Meyer said the country was “very important from the point of The most-searched watch model was the Jaeger-lecoultre has emerged as a strong chal- view of future growth” and that the company wanted to establish a Audemars Piguet royal oak, which celebrates lenger on the social media front, namely by tai- strong brand image in hong kong as a “gateway” to china. its 40th anniversary this year. loring content to each platform. “They have done The store, located in front of an exit from the city’s subway sys- At number two was the Portuguese from iWc, excellent work on social media, and it reflects in tem in the popular shopping area of causeway Bay, costs 11 million whose Portofino, Pilot, Mark and Aquatimer this year’s rankings,” Bondoux said. hong kong dollars, or $1.4 million, to rent per month. Asked whether the level of rent was a hindrance when the brand was looking to hong kong, Meyer said: “Yes and no.” he said it was important for Forever 21 to have a space large enough to accommodate its products and that it had taken five years Adidas Originals, Opening Ceremony Team Up to find the current location, at capitol centre. Alexandre herchcovitch, as well as its own in- he noted the store was a large space and that its outer facade By liSA lockWooD house collection, has historically had a connec- would accommodate two billboards. “We’ve got some added benefit tion with the olympic Games, in both its name for our brand…so that’s the way we look at it,” he said. NeW York — in anticipation of the london and philosophy. The company was founded with Forever 21 arrived after the Gap opened last year and ahead of 2012 Summer olympic Games, Adidas originals the principles of merging sports, business and Abercrombie & Fitch, which is moving into a space in the historic will collaborate with New York retailer opening global participation. collaborative design, par- Pedder Building downtown later this year. ceremony for a capsule collection. ticularly in the olympic sports arena, has been a Apparel sales volume in hong kong rose 15 percent in 2011 com- opening ceremony will reinterpret Adidas key aspect of opening ceremony’s retail philoso- pared with a year earlier, according to the city’s census and statis- originals silhouettes to create a premium cap- phy for many years. tics department. sule collection for multiple seasons. The first The Adidas originals line will consist of ap- A department spokesman said largely favorable job and income range will be for fall and will include elements proximately 100 pieces of footwear and apparel. conditions and thriving inbound tourism should bode well for retail business in the near term. exclusive Dolce & Gabbana Apologizes of swim and cycling with a Nineties streetwear attitude. Over Hong Kong Bias Incident Dirk Schönberger, global creative director for the Adidas hoNG koNG — Dolce & Gabbana apologized Wednesday to the Sport Division, said, “Adidas people of hong kong after residents staged a series of protests out- originals has a long history of side one of its stores, accusing the brand of discrimination. working with some of the best “We understand that the events which unfolded in front of the artists, brands and designers Dolce & Gabbana Boutique on canton road have offended the citi- in their field. What attracted zens of hong kong, and for this we are truly sorry, and we apolo- us to opening ceremony in the gize,” the italian fashion house said. “The Dolce & Gabbana policy first place was their way of sup- is to welcome the hong kong people, and that of the whole world, porting upcoming talent as well respecting the rights of each individual and of the local laws.” as their design philosophy for The company concluded with wishes of a happy and prosperous their in-house collection. The year of the dragon. lunar New Year’s Day, a major chinese holiday, idea of opening ceremony The logo for the Adidas Originals and Opening Ceremony collaborative line. is Monday, and the coming year will be of that zodiac animal. re-creating Adidas originals locals cried foul in recent weeks after media reported that a hong products with their creative sensibility in mind Footwear will retail from $140 to $235, while kong resident had been barred from taking photos at thec anton road was something that intrigued us. once we delved the clothing will range from $100 to $630. Both store, in the Tsim Sha Tsui district. The reports claimed that Mainland deeper, we discovered opening ceremony’s close women’s and men’s collections will be avail- chinese and foreigners were allowed to take photos of the store. ties to the idea of the olympics, and with london able at opening ceremony stores in New York, Since then, there have been a series of protests outside the store, coming up this year, it was just the perfect fit.” los Angeles and Tokyo, select Adidas original with the largest drawing reportedly more than 1,000 people. The opening ceremony, which sells lines such as stores, as well as other fashion accounts, begin- protesters had vowed to continue demonstrating until they had re- Proenza Schouler, rachel comey, rodarte and ning in July. ceived an apology. — J.M.

w19a003a;5.indd 3 1/18/12 8:20 PM 01182012202120 4 WWD thursday, january 19, 2012

BEAUTY BEAT Toledano Tapped for Gaultier Dessange Buys {Continued from page one} making nice progress, and it’s very en- playing in fashion just to say we own the That’s the challenge.” couraging.” Toledano, on St. John’s board business but because we want to develop “I think there’s tremendous potential for the past year, has continued to operate the fashion.…In the long term, growing Fantastic Sams for growth,” he added, noting the Gaultier out of Paris. the fashion is key for the survival of a house could one day represent “several Before Chloé, Toledano was ceo brand, and we want to be the owners of By JENNIFER WEIL hundred million.” of Guy Laroche, where he discovered our destiny.” Gaultier’s business generates most of Alber Elbaz, and earlier was ceo of Karl Puig, too, has earned his fashion PARIS — Dessange International its revenues from licensing royalties, in- Lagerfeld SA. stripes since taking the helm of Ricci, tap- said today it is further broadening cluding for its main collection, produced Toledano noted he has known Puig ping designer Peter Copping from Louis its reach in the U.S. with the acqui- by Italy’s Aeffe, and its 25 boutiques. chairman and ceo Marc Puig for about a Vuitton, who has received strong reviews sition of the Fantastic Sams hair According to the most recent annual re- dozen years, and “with Marc and Manuel, for his collections and earned respect salon franchise. port of Hermès International, which sold we share the same values, and how we see from opinion leaders. Terms of the deal were not dis- its 45 percent stake in Gaultier to Puig, the business.” Sales in Puig’s fashion division — closed. revenues in 2010 at Gaultier comprised primarily of The buy doubles Dessange rose 5 percent to 24 million Carolina Herrera and Nina International’s franchise network euros, or $31.8 million at Manuel Puig and Ricci — gained 25 percent to more than 2,000 salons, 1,500 of average exchange rates for Ralph Toledano in 2010, the most recent which are outside of France. the period. year for which figures are “The acquisition of Fantastic Market sources estimate available. Sams is in line with Dessange all Gaultier products gen- Puig said Wednesday International’s expansion strat- erate annual retail volume that the Ricci fashion egy in the United States, following of about 500 million euros, house is progressing at a the acquisition of the Dessange or $662.6 million at current double-digit growth rate Paris North American master exchange. and expanding its whole- franchise in April 2011,” Dessange Come mid-2016, Puig sale distribution. He noted International stated. will get its hands on a London boutique is Dessange International plans Gaultier’s lucrative fra- planned for the next year. first to introduce and develop its grance license, currently Toledano will not be in- Camille Albane brand in North held by Beauté Prestige volved in Paco Rabanne, America. International, a subsidiary which falls under the pur- “Our goal is to have over 2,000 of Japan’s Shiseido. Puig view of Puig’s chief brand Fantastic Sams and 300 Camille and Toledano stressed that officer, José Manuel Albesa. Albane salons,” stated Scott freeing Gaultier of business Puig remains a major Colabuono, president and chief worries to concentrate on player in the global per- executive officer of Fantastic Sams creative matters is a prima- fume business with strong International. ry mission. licensing partners. Names Fantastic Sams, whose par-

The energetic designer, MURA FRANCK in its prestige stable in- ent company was Fantastic Sams who retains a 40 percent clude Comme des Garçons Holding Corp., was founded in stake in his namesake com- Parfums, Prada Parfums Memphis in 1974. Its salons have pany, is to present his men’s PHOTO BY and Payot. affordably priced services and re- collection here today and Among owned brands, tail hair care products. show his couture collection on Wednesday. A well-respected executive, Toledano which include Carolina Herrera, Rabanne Dessange International is in 45 Since exiting Chloé in August 2010, is known for his close ties to retailers, and has been a key driver, thanks to the men’s countries through the Dessange Toledano has done strategic consulting, for a strong product orientation. scent 1 Million, launched in 2008 and fol- Paris and Camille Albane brands. and last August was named chairman at Puig said he’s confident Toledano is lowed up in 2010 with a successful femi- Irvine, Calif.-based fashion company St. the right leader to accelerate develop- nine counterpart, Lady Million. John. Toledano told WWD that he plans to ment at its fashion division. Puig sells its products in more than continue at St. John: “I have to meet my “He is a master in command, I am very 130 countries and counts 3,500 employees Appeals Court commitment to Jim Kelley,” he said, re- pleased to have him with me, and I’m sure around the world. ferring to the president of Vestar Capital we’ll share a lot of pains and glories,” he — With contributions from Denies Bettencourt Partners, which owns St. John. “We are said, flashing a big smile. “Puig is not only Lisa LockWood, neW York PARIS — A French appeals court today turned down the request by Liliane Bettencourt to have her guardianship status changed, a spokesman for the family of her Lejaby Lingerie Brand to Be Taken Over by Consortium daughter, Françoise Bettencourt Meyers, confirmed. closure of its manufacturing facility in court announced its decision. The 89-year-old L’Oréal heir- By ALEx WyNNE yssingeaux, the company’s last in France, Lejaby SAS had revenue of 52 million ess appealed the decision made and 93 layoffs there. The new owner will euros, or $66 million, in the 12 months in mid-October by the guardian- PARIS — Ailing lingerie brand Lejaby is to maintain 194 staff at the company’s head- ended Jan. 31, 2011, down 9 percent com- ship judge of Courbevoie, France, be taken over by a consortium of former La quarters, of a total 250. pared with the prior-year period. who had placed her under the Perla chief executive officer Alain Prost, The company was placed in liquidation The company manufactures the Lejaby, protection of her grandson, Tunisian lingerie manufacturer Isalys and on Dec. 22, and the Lyon court began de- Elixir and Rasurel lingerie, corsetry and Jean-Victor Meyers. At that time, Christian Bugnon, the son of a former ceo liberating yesterday between two poten- swimwear brands, and also holds the Nina Bettencourt’s holdings were of Lejaby, the commercial court in Lyon, tial buyers. Ricci and Christian Lacroix lingerie licenses. put under the guardianship of France, has ruled. “It is the worst possible outcome,” said Executives from Lejaby and its new Meyers, plus Bettencourt Meyers The takeover of the company, based Bernadette Pessemesse, a representative owners were not available to comment at and her other grandson, Nicolas in Rillieux outside Lyon, will involve the of the CGT trade union, shortly after the press time. Meyers. Bettencourt had hoped for reinforced guardianship, which is less restrictive. Dita Von Teese The request was originally models her Von examined in mid-December by Puig by: Franck Mura Dita Intimates to Debut for Valentine’s Follies lingerie. the appeals court in Versailles, France, which deferred its deci- VON FOLLIES By DITA Von Teese will be clusive designer fashions at great value sion until today. hitting Target stores across Australia for prices is Target’s mission. The Bettencourt affair was Valentine’s Day, beginning Feb. 8. “The product mix is a true reflection thrust back into the spotlight less The collection of 26 pieces will feature of Dita’s own personal style and Target is than a year after the mother and five groups of balconette bras, high-cut confident it will resonate with customers daughter declared a cease-fire, briefs, G-strings, garters, bustiers and fit- who are inspired by beautiful, affordable in December 2010, in their long- ted corsolettes rendered in leopard-print and great quality garments,” said Chenery. running tussle. satin with eyelash lace detail, red satin Von Teese will return to Australia Bettencourt Meyers had made with delicate black lace trim and black in March to kick off the launch of Von numerous requests for her moth- lace with intricate ribbon detailing and Follies by Dita Von Teese, and she will er’s guardianship protection signature Dita blue treatments. There walk the runway for Target at the L’Oréal during the saga, which began will also be spot-pattern mesh overlay ef- Melbourne Fashion Festival on Saturday, in December 2007. Bettencourt fects on nude and black grounds, as well March 10. Meyers at that time brought a as sexy looking nude and black fishnet. The burlesque queen said she was lawsuit against photographer

Von Follies by Dita Von Teese will also pleased the launch would take place S François-Marie Banier. She al- be available for purchase online at shop. for Valentine’s Day, noting, “It’s the per- leged he exploited the weak- Nield target.com.au. Plans are to extend the prod- fect time to treat yourself or someone l ness of Bettencourt, who gave RY e

uct range at Target throughout 2012 as the special to a glamorous piece from my H him assets valued at about 1 bil- brand is prepared for global distribution. new collection.…I am excited to see my S lion euros, or $1.28 billion at Murray Chenery, general manager of Australian fans again.” current exchange.

marketing for Target Australia, said ex- — karYn monget PHOTO BY — J.W.

w19a004a;8.indd 1 1/18/12 8:42 PM 01182012204341 WWD thursday, january 19, 2012 5 WWD.COM The Week That Is The five remaining GOP presidential candidates have drawn distinctions on key issues, particularly of an economic nature, in the run-up to the South Carolina primary on Saturday. Here’s what they’ve been saying, and an assessment of their fashion choices — for better or worse. — KRISTI ELLIS, ALEx BAdIA And ARTHUR FRIEdMAn S e G ma i ; S e G ma t/Getty i S rn e le/Getty D ae r Jonathan Joe bama by o

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emmanuel RICK PERRy nEwT GInGRICH MITT ROMnEy RICK SAnTORUM ROn PAUL by erry by p

The Texas governor continues his We’re still waiting for He’s losing fashion credibility fast in He has upped his fashion game Everybody’s favorite grandpa ; aul p S

; unsophisticated style of dressing him to visit the barber. South Carolina. This blazer is not as by losing the now-renowned continues to miss the point S e orbi G

c in South Carolina. There’s no right But that aside, he seems sharp as others have been, and the sweater vest and opting for a by not wearing structured ma i occasion for a man to wear a Wal-Mart to wear the exact same jeans are the wrong silhouette. Always sharp, two-button notch lapel garments. The oversize beige fleece jacket in public. If he’s looking outfit every day. Let’s choose a straight leg and avoid the that fits him very well and sweater hugs him in all the SS.com/ for cozy, he should take the plunge hope he has seven of boot cut. A man his age should also enhances his assets. There are wrong places and it continues on/Getty S and pull on a Snuggie. And what’s up the same suit, shirt and avoid whiskering or any wash and opt still some mistakes, such as the to enhance his frailty. The pants umapre with the high-waisted dress pants? tie, otherwise it would for a darker denim. A braided brown shirt collar being too big and are way too long and too big

ark Wil He’s mixing elements from different make for an interesting belt would be better to enhance the overpowering the knot of the and paired with the orthopedic m

akela/Z

m fashion universes. A white dress shirt, ride for his aides in the softness of the outfit, but the cute tie, which is a bit too long. His shoes are a fatal combination. ill-fitting dress pants and a Western campaign bus. The pants loafers are the outfit’s saving grace. choice of a gelato-striped tie And is that a cell phone in his ark m belt shows a total lack of identity and are too long, but at least He may be happy he’s leading the would overpower someone else, pocket or is he just happy to see direction. And the orthopedic cowboy he’s buttoning the jacket Republican race, but watch out not to but he can carry it off. He looks the people of South Carolina?

rich by boots are the nail in the coffin. to hide his belly. show too much veneer when he smiles. comfortable and confident. Empty your pockets. G Gin Santorum photo by

ON THE ON TAXES tax. Get rid of the benefits tax. Get rid ON THE EUROPEAN FINANCIAL CRISIS AND JOBS of the tax on Social Security benefits Romney: “The right course for us is not ON THE SIDELINE Front-runner and and then take 20 percent of that and to think we have to go run over there President Obama: “I don’t want America to be former Massachusetts mail your check in.” to Europe to try to save their banking a nation that’s primarily known for financial Gov. Mitt Romney: system or to try and pump money into speculation and racking up debt buying stuff Campaign 2012 “Four years ago, Texas Rep. Ron Paul: “We should have the the banks here in this country. This is from other nations. I want us to be known we were really fo- lowest [income] tax that we’ve ever the time for us to recognize that the for making and selling products all over cused on Iraq and what was happening had, and up until 1913 it was 0 percent. system of laws we have and the free the world stamped with three proud words: there and the surge. And that was an What’s so bad about that?” enterprise system works and we don’t ‘Made in America.’ I don’t want the next gen- area that really was in John McCain’s need government stepping in with reg- eration of manufacturing jobs taking root wheelhouse. Now, the economy is ulations and higher taxes and telling in countries like China or Germany. I want the issue people are most concerned us what we can and cannot do as a so- them taking root in places like Michigan and about. That’s in my wheelhouse.” SAY WHAT? ciety to try and keep America strong.” Ohio and Virginia and North Carolina. And Perry: “God bless the Tea Party be- that’s a race that America can win. Former Pennsylvania Sen. Rick Santorum: cause if nothing else…they clearly ON ROMNEY’S STINT AT BAIN CAPITAL “After shedding jobs for more than a de- “The rest of the economy is not being showed Americans that they need Perry: “The issue in venture capitalism cade, American manufacturers have now shipped off like the mills here in to pick up the Constitution of the is about creating jobs. And this vulture added jobs for two years in a row. That’s good South Carolina were to other countries United States and read it.” capitalism is about, you know, making news. But when a lot of folks are still looking around the world because of foreign money regardless of whether people for work, now is the time for us to step on the competition. The foreign competition Romney: “I want people to know lose their jobs or not.” gas. So that’s why I pushed Congress to extend that we are dealing with right now is that I love legal immigration. the payroll tax cut this year, so that 160 mil- much cheaper to do business, exclud- Almost all of us in this room are Gingrich: “There was a pattern in some lion working Americans weren’t hit with a tax ing labor costs, than we are, [which is] descendants of immigrants or are companies, a handful of them, of leav- hike. Now is the time to extend that middle about 20 percent more and that 20 per- immigrants ourselves.” ing them with enormous debt and then class…tax cut for all of this year. cent differential is government…regu- within a year or two or three, having “But we’re going to have to do more. lation and it’s also government taxa- them go broke. I think that is something And that’s why, in the next few weeks, tion.…So, [in my plan] we’ve leveled the he [Romney] ought to answer.” we’re also going to put forward new playing field for the guys here in this ON UNEMPLOYMENT BENEFITS tax proposals that reward companies country and we’ve created a competi- Santorum: “What we’ve seen in the past Romney: “Four of the companies we in- that choose to bring jobs home and tive environment for the manufacturer.” under this administration is extending vested in, they weren’t businesses I invest in America. And we’re going benefits up to 99 weeks. I don’t support ran, but we invested in, ended up to eliminate tax breaks for com- Texas Gov. Rick Perry: “Well, obviously the that. I think if you have people who are [as of] today having some 120,000 panies that are moving jobs over- first thing we need to do in this country out of work that long a period of time… jobs. Some of the businesses seas. There are workers ready to is cut the tax rate down to where the it makes it harder to find work when we invested in weren’t suc- work, right now. That’s why I set people feel confident that they can risk you come back.…What we should do is cessful and lost jobs. I think if a goal of doubling our exports their capital and have a return on their have it be just like welfare. Give it to [the American public] wants of goods and services by 2014 investment. That’s the reason I laid out the states, put a time limit.“ to have someone who un- and it’s a goal, by the way, that a simple…flat tax of 20 percent, [which derstands how the economy we’re on track to meet; in fact, is optional] with their home mortgage Former House Speaker Newt Gingrich: “All works, having worked in the real we’re a little ahead of schedule deduction and charitable expenses and unemployment compensation should economy, that I’m the guy that can in meeting that goal.” local taxes. Get rid of the capital gains be tied to a job training requirement.” best post up to Barack Obama.”

w19a005a;11.indd 5 1/18/12 6:41 PM 01182012184406 6 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 Pre-FallCOLLECTIONS 2012

JIL SANDER

“American Elite” was Raf Simons’ inspiration at Jil Sander, where he riffed on boarding school girls from the Fifties, Sixties and Eighties. The clothes had a relaxed ease with collegiate lettering and sweatshirt fabrics, all mixed in with full skirts and maxi coats.

ESCADA SPORT

Presenting his final capsule collection for Escada Sport (resort 2012 was his first), Jonathan Saunders showed a graphic mix of color-blocked motifs and ANTONIO floral prints in MARRAS mismatched hues. The sophisticated, conceptual style of Sixties Italian actress YVES SAINT LAURENT Monica Vitti inspired Antonio Marras’ Challenging himself to reinvent the lineup. He reworked classics, Stefano Pilati referenced a number of colorful Yves Saint Laurent’s archive, foulards from the circa the Sixties and Seventies. company’s archive, He worked an animal-print theme mixing the patterns throughout much of the collection, on fluid, high-waisted

AND BEN WELLER PAVESI DOMINIQUE MAITRE, GIOVANNA JOHN AQUINO, mixing in black leather and uniform- dresses and feminine inspired gray flannels and wools. padded coats. PHOTOS BY WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 7 WWD.COM

FOR MORE PRE-FALL, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

JOHN GALLIANO

Creative director Bill Gaytten paid homage to the chic heroines of Fifties film noir with a retro-urban John Galliano collection. Heart-shaped necklines were used on chartreuse green faille skirt suits, and asymmetric draping swirled around the body of a chiffon gown in a delicate peacock- feather print.

BALLY Bally’s Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz channeled a Cold War-era Russian girl, one with the good fortune to have BOTTEGA VENETA SALVATORE FERRAGAMO access to the diplomats’ store. Tomas Maier said he combined Showing at the Royal Hall of the Milano There was a host “masculine, historical, military and Centrale railway station, Massimiliano of little black wool sporty elements” at Bottega Veneta. Giornetti presented Salvatore crepe dresses, He focused on fitted, elongated Ferragamo’s first pre-fall collection. some with leather silhouettes, i.e., a corseted jersey Opulent pieces included pleated suede trimmings, and flannel dress done in a print miniskirts and cashmere cardigans buttery leather inspired by Manhattan skyscraper with snakeskin intarsias, and silk argyle jackets with red fox windows at night. shirtdresses with matching ties. fur collars.

8 WWD thursday, january 19, 2012

NRF Puts Focus on Harnessing Technology

{Continued from page one} Jobs” campaign signs were vis- woman, referring to the new brand,” he said, noting that 24,000 retailers, suppliers and ible all over the Jacob K. Javits retail concept developed by other luxury labels were much consultants were fueled by fore- convention center, saying that christopher burch. slower to embrace this new me- casts for slowing sales in 2012. one in four U.s. jobs, or 42 million Paco Underhill, ceo of dium. “We wanted them to get Presenters did little to dispel the americans, work in the retail in- envirosell, is always looking for comfortable buying’’ a $5,000 bag idea that minimal job growth, dustry. meanwhile, just outside, new concepts — including in the or a tuxedo” online. sustained high unemployment, the Retail action Project held a far corners of the world. service Hiring and transition planning store closings, feverish promot- rally on tuesday to highlight the was the centerpiece of his pre- has long been a concern of the re- ing and bruising battles for mar- poor quality of retail jobs. an RaP sentation. “i went to the mall at tail industry. “We don’t see a lot of

ket share — all issues of the last report said that 51 percent of new short Hills [in new Jersey] be- formal rigor around succession few years — will continue. york city retail workers earn less fore christmas and waited 45 planning,” said brenda malloy, the inevitability of e-com- than $10 an hour and 34 percent minutes for a parking spot with managing director, global prac- merce and mobile commerce don’t receive benefits. nobody directing traffic,” he tice leader of Russell Reynolds, took on a sense of urgency. Web on the expo floor, macy’s gave said. “at iguatemi mall in brazil, at a panel presided over by retail accounted for 20 percent a clue as to how it will deploy there’s a parking concierge.” stephen i. sadove, chairman and

of holiday spending in the U.s. technology in new ways, unveil- another example of service is the ceo of saks inc. “openness and “the pie for brick-and-mortar ing an open-sell beauty spot roof of a parking garage at a mall discipline is a major part of re- retailers is shrinking,” sucharita kiosk created in conjunction New technology: in south africa where there’s a taining employees.” mulpuru, vice president and with intel. mike tobin, senior Macy’s the Beauty Spot. drive-in movie theater, which he burberry ceo angela ahrendts principal analyst at Forrester vice president for omni-channel called “a painfully simple idea.” said the company has embraced Research, said on monday. “We strategy at macy’s, said the instal- american rooftop parking areas need to lower our’’ expectations. lation is being tested in four loca- chef Wolfgang Puck, who sells get filled up less than 40 days out i look to the music industry as tions. it has products from estée on Hsn. adidas has a version of of the year, Underhill said, which A brand today a telling example. the digital lauder, clinique and lancôme the intel wall for product launch- can cause security concerns music industry delivers 25 per- on the endcaps, an interactive es and enabling consumers to among shoppers. thailand’s cent to 30 percent of the reve- touch screen for product infor- search assortments. Paragon shopping center gets that does not nues of a decade ago.” mation, and is manned by a con- there was a standing-room- around this by designating one as the convention was starting cierge. tobin said beauty spot is only crowd at a session about level of parking for women only. engage in a two- on sunday, the news that Zappos. designed to appeal to customers the deployment of apple iPads Underhill also put forward the com had been hacked became a who want to shop on their own, at guess and Pacific sunwear. 70-centimeter marketing plan way dialogue reminder that technology is not rather than at traditional coun- scott Forrest, director of in- where retail executives sit on a impervious to crime. ters manned by sales associates. frastructure at guess, said the skateboard and roll through the the nRF on monday projected “i spent the last 12 years build- retailer was using the Verifone store to see it from the vantage with consumers retail sales in the U.s. will grow ing macys.com,” said tobin, who global bay iPad to “enhance point of a five-year-old. 3.4 percent to $2.53 trillion in 2012, is looking at other technology for the shopping experience,” but over the years, Ralph lauren is a dying brand. compared with the 4.7 percent stores. “imagine an endless aisle. it found other uses such as store has invested heavily in pro- training and a look book for ducing original content for the — Ken Seiff, clients. With a mobile app for internet, everything from music BrooKS BrotherS customer loyalty, guess signed and an extensive style guide The pie for brick-and-mortar 500 customers in five hours at to its own Rl magazine, all in the recent Jingle ball concert at a quest to provide its custom- Facebook, using technology to retailers is shrinking. staples center in los angeles. ers with “merchantainment,” or communicate with employees. “We’re seeing on average an what david lauren, senior vice she also decided that one of the — Sucharita Mulpuru, forreSter reSearch iPad increase in transactions president of advertising, mar- company’s core values should be because we put look books in keting and corporate communi- compensation, because “we were growth in 2011, although the 2012 We’re working on leveraging dressing rooms,” Forrest said. cations for Ralph lauren corp., not democratic. only 10 percent retail pace will still be faster than inventory and using inventory cisco is piloting its new style calls the “seamless blend of mer- of employees got bonuses. it’s many other industries. Former more efficiently.” me technology at U.K. retailer chandise and entertainment” very costly, but our turnover rate President bill clinton later intel has also developed in John lewis. shoppers “try on” out- that allows the Ralph lauren is down by 80 percent.” monday morning spoke about glo- conjunction with Hsn an impos- fits by superimposing them onto “world to come to life.” the com- ahrendts also decided that balization and our growing inter- ing 13-by-8-foot interactive touch an image of themselves on a touch pany created a virtual fashion burberry needed’’ to be “a young, dependence and the human toll of wall for gaming, introducing con- screen. cisco’s new interactive dig- show for Rugby that allowed cus- old company” and she embraced the economic crisis. clinton said sumers to products and captur- ital sign technology will be used tomers to shop for the merchan- technology. “We were a very dis- people feel their prospects aren’t ing data for e-mails, though in its by tesco and by “an apparel re- dise immediately, designed a parate company. We were in 100 as good as they used to be. “all current iteration it does not pro- tailer in the U.s.,” a spokeswoman shoppable interactive children’s countries. there’s only one in- during my childhood and young vide for e-commerce. according said. “one retailer is looking into book and an ambitious 4-d pro- ternet and the consumer knows adulthood, i never doubted, not to Hsn chief executive’’ officer different cities where it doesn’t motion at the end of 2010 that only one company. one of our for one minute, i could make a liv- mindy grossman, the wall will have any stores and installing transformed its madison avenue key principles is the brand is ing. the economic crisis has shat- be tested possibly in airports signs in malls and transportation and london flagships into a se- number one.” tered this. it’s gone to people’s and hotels, and can engage con- sites such as railway stations.” ries of 3-d objects and images. — With contributions core,” he said. sumers in virtual special events “We did a lot of work with c. “We wanted people to see from DaviD moin anD the nRF’s “Retail means such as cooking classes with Wonder,” said the cisco spokes- Ralph lauren as a modern Jean e. Palmieri De la Renta and Talley Channel Sorolla americas at the metropolitan museum of an anthropological, margaret mead mo- By RosemaRy FeitelbeRg art, but there was not enough space. the ment,” he said. “it was painful to edit, but designer then decided to focus on sorolla, we have some wonderful pieces.” oscaR de la Renta and andré leon whose intent was to document each re- the exhibition spans three floors and talley spoke of the artist Joaquín sorolla gion’s distinct dress and ornamentation features 10 paintings with 30 pieces of y bastida with such gusto tuesday night as a way to help preserve the country’s men’s and women’s clothing and accesso- m at the Queen sofía spanish institute that heritage. although the Hispanic society ries. as talley indicated in the exhibition O c.c guests could have thought both men were of america has a staggering collection, notes printed on one wall of an upstairs Y new to his work. de la Renta reached out to a number of gallery that showcases a few contempo-

they, of course, were not, having devot- other museums to help put the show to- rary designers, christian lacroix once rn/BFAn ed a good deal of the past seven months to gether. the artist’s masterful “el Jaleo,” a said, “spain has been by my side in every HO ild finessing “Joaquín sorolla & the glory of massive painting on view at the isabella collection.” H Sc

spanish dress,” which is on view through stewart gardner museum in boston, had on Jan. 25 at the Hispanic society of e O march 10. de la Renta, who plays a very to be overlooked, due to its size. america, de la Renta will sit down with J active role in the institute as its chair- as for what has made the sorolla exhi- executive director mitchell codding to Oscar de la Renta and man, and talley, who curated the show, bition gratifying to de la Renta, he said, discuss sorolla’s “Vision of spain” mural, André Leon Talley PHOTO BY described some of their findings and dis- “the appreciation of the people has re- which the artist completed there in 1919. cussed spain’s enduring influence on fash- ally been tremendous.” as well-received as the spanish dous amount of fabrics.” ion, during a discussion organized by the during a 10-day stay in spain, which in- institute’s show has been, de la Renta talley also is at work on a new exhi- council of Fashion designers of america. cluded many hours at the museo sorolla is already plotting the next one there, bition for the savannah college of art & lauren santo domingo, amy tan, and the museo del traje, talley said the which will be about mariano Fortuny design, which named a wing in his honor malia mills, gemma Kahng and Kay highlight was finding the 300 pieces of y madrazo for the Park avenue space. in its museum that opened last fall. With Unger were among the fashion types clothing and jewelry that sorolla had “most people think he was Venetian, but his inaugural effort, “High society,” up who breezed through the private view- bought for his subjects to wear in his he was spanish. His father was also a and running, the Vogue-r is crafting “the ing. afterward, de la Renta said he and paintings. “to see all those costumes dis- very famous painter,” de la Renta said. little black dress,” a contemporary take the costume institute’s Harold Koda had played on a table for us to look at in the “He not only created the unmistakable on that iconic staple. “it will be a very initially discussed the idea of staging museum’s basement was an incredible Fortuny pleats but he also developed the original view of the modern little black an exhibition about how spain’s tradi- moment. to see how they preserved the technique so that the silk would always dress as a uniform, a coat of armor and a tional clothing influenced clothing in the clothes he had purchased was very much remain pleated. He created a tremen- point of style,” he said.

w19a008a;7.indd 1 1/18/12 9:01 PM 01182012210200 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 9 WWD.COM

Bon Appétit Collection Chef,” he said. “And Calif. Gov. Pushes for Tax Hike MEMO PAD here I am, talking to you!” Condé Nast has launched other products SAN FRANCISCO — California Gov. increases, concerned about dampen- with HSN — Glamour had a jewelry Jerry Brown on Wednesday launched ing consumer spending, department YOU’VE GOT MALE: Yves Saint Laurent is line, but an HSN spokesman and Bon his campaign to secure voter approv- stores and other retailers in California putting some advertising muscle behind its Appétit spokeswoman said this is the most al to temporarily increase the state are nonetheless backing Brown’s pro- men’s collection. Creative director Stefano extensive relationship the two companies sales tax by half a percent and raise posals as necessary for bolstering the Pilati has tapped David Sims — who also have had to date. — JOHN KOBLIN personal income taxes on the wealthy. state’s economy, said Bill Dombrowski, shot YSL’s women’s images for spring — to In the governor’s annual address be- president and chief executive officer of shoot the men’s campaign, which pictures FRENCH HUFF: The French edition of online fore the state legislature, Brown said the the California Retailers Association. model Baptiste Radufe in a simple studio news portal The Huffington Post is set to go tax increases — supported by retailers Dombrowski said retailers are rais- setting. Spring marks the first time YSL has live on Monday, with a much-cited name of — are key to closing the state’s yawning ing money to support Brown’s refer- released a men’s campaign since the fall recent months at its helm. Anne Sinclair, the budget deficit that in turn would bolster endum campaign, which the lobbyist 2007 season, when Inez van Lamsweerde and wife of fallen politician Dominique Strauss- California’s economic recovery. expects has a 50 percent chance for Vinoodh Matadin shot designer Marc Newson for Kahn and a seasoned French journalist, The nation’s most populated state passage. “It’s a tough sell,” he said. In the ads. According to the house, the move is editorial director of the new Web site. is still burdened by high unemploy- addition to Californians’ historical re- reflects the continuing global growth of its David Kessler, a renowned media strategist ment and lags the nation as a whole sistance to higher taxes, there are also men’s wear business. The campaign will in France, is director of the publication, in economic growth since the reces- competing tax-increase measures on break in March issues. — NINA JONES while Paul Ackermann, previously publishing sion. California’s the ballot put forth by manager of lefigaro.fr, is its editor in chief. jobless rate is 11.3 citizen groups, such The French edition will be published in percent, the second as one to raise money partnership with Le Monde newspaper. highest in the U.S. $6.9B for public schools. Alongside founder Arianna Huffington, all next to Nevada’s “It’s looking like three will host a press conference in Paris 13 percent, as of ESTIMATED REVENUE FROM it’s going to be a re- on Monday — during the couture shows November, the latest PROPOSED SALES TAX HIKE. ally large ballot” full — to talk about the site’s positioning and statistics available. of tax initiatives, strategy for France. — ALEX WYNNE In contrast, the U.S. Dombrowski said. jobless rate for the month was 8.7 “Voters get frustrated and vote no.” HAIR STYLE: Tom Ford, take note — Gillette is percent, improving to 8.5 percent in The usual high voter turnout for launching a shaving device for fans of stubble. December. a presidential election could slightly The company unveiled a marketing In arguing for voter approval of high- improve chances for Brown’s tax pro- campaign featuring Adrien Brody, Gael García er taxes, Brown said the economic mal- posal, said Corey D. Cook, a political Bernal and André “3000” Benjamin, targeting aise in Europe caused by its debt crisis science professor and director of the Images from the YSL campaign. men who style their facial hair — as is instructive. “Prudence and paying University of San Francisco’s Leo T. opposed to sporting a clean-shaven look. down debt is the best policy,” he argued. McCarthy Center for Public Service IT’S ALL ABOUT THE PRODUCT: Once upon a time, The campaign, dubbed “Masters of Style,” However, he noted that “California and the Common Good. Condé Nast used to hold its nose to licensing supports the introduction of the Gillette is on the mend,” with the state defi- Regardless of political affiliation, deals. But after the summer of McKinsey in Fusion ProGlide Styler, a 3-in-1 battery- cit just one-quarter of the $20 billion Californians have bristled at tax in- 2009 and a couple of years of brainstorming, operated shaving tool that allows men to owed a year ago. The change was the creases since the landmark voter revolt the publisher will take one big step into a trim, edge and shave their facial hair. The result of severe cutbacks in public with Prop 13 in 1978 that restrained brave new world. Starting at midnight on Jan. $19.99 device will be available in a wide services as well as an increase in tax property tax hikes. Still, Cook said 31, Condé Nast’s food magazine, Bon Appétit, range of retail outlets in North America coffers from rebounding businesses. benefiting Brown’s tax proposal could will unveil a lineup of cookware, appliances next month. If voters approve Brown’s referen- be the public’s realization that further and cutlery and prep tools. “Our research shows that 40 percent of dum in the Nov. 6 general election, the drastic cutbacks in public services — Items up for sale include: A Bon Appétit men style their facial hair. It’s guys who state sales tax would increase to 7.75 the hallmark of state budgets since the branded electric pressure cooker ($99.99); want to create a look on their face as an percent from 7.25 percent, effective recession — are the only alternative. a 10-piece cookware set, which comes with expression of their identity,” said Austin Jan. 1, 2013, through Jan. 1, 2017. This According to a recent California an 8-inch skillet, a 10-inch skillet and two Lally, vice president and general manager at would restore half of the sales tax reve- Public Policy Institute survey, 60 kinds of saucepans ($249.99), or a pineapple Global Gillette, a unit of Procter & Gamble. nue lost July 1, when the rate declined percent of likely voters favor the gov- corer in black ($15.99). by 1 percent as state lawmakers let ex- ernor’s twin tax-increase proposal. It appears that Condé Nast executives will pire an earlier temporary increase. Regarding the economy, 49 percent not force editor in chief Adam Rapoport out “It’s fair. It’s temporary,” Brown of those surveyed said their financial on stage to shill for Bon Appétit’s pressure told lawmakers, previewing his pitch situation is about the same as a year cooker and instead has hired a fresh-faced to voters for the sales tax hike, esti- ago, while 35 percent said they’re spokesman. They’ve tapped former Top mated to raise $6.9 billion. worse off and 15 percent said they’re Chef contestant Ryan Scott to become the Bon The increase in personal income pocketbooks are doing better. Appétit Collection Chef. Scott said he was taxes for higher-income Californians As for expectations at retail, “con- hired about a month ago after he was spotted would take effect this tax year and sumer spending also has picked up on a Healthy Choice commercial. He’ll appear last through 2017. The change would in California, as individuals and on HSN to talk up Bon Appétit’s cookware range from paying 1 percent more firms return to more normal con- about once a month. His first appearance on for those with incomes from $250,000 sumption behavior fueled, in part, Jan. 31 will last for about 10 hours. to $300,000; 1.5 percent for incomes by pent-up demand,” the Legislative He’s an energetic spokesman. OF GILLETTE PHOTO COURTESY from $300,000 to $500,000; and 2 per- Analyst’s Office said, noting the pos- “What’s happening now guys, as you can see, André 3000, Adrien Brody and Gael García Bernal cent for tax brackets above that. sibility this trend could waver. everything is caramelized evenly around the in the new Gillette campaign. While retailers ordinarily resist tax — JOANNA RAMEY whole pan and not a lot of pans do that!” said Gillette has long been associated with the Scott, from the BA Kitchen on the fourth floor at clean-shaven look and endorsed by sports 4 Times Square Wednesday, while cooking some figures like Tiger Woods, Derek Jeter, Roger brussels sprouts. He was demonstrating for one Federer and Thierry Henry. The new campaign, Target Credit Card Sale on Hold reporter. “And that’s what I love about it. There in contrast, focuses on more creative types was not a stepped missed on this! Yo u can cook who favor mustaches, goatees, soul patches TARGET CORP. IS temporarily sus- sions until later in 2012, combined with evenly all the way around, see? What’s also and artfully crafted stubble. pending its efforts to sell its credit repayment of the Chase Card Services great about this pan is because of the magnetic “This is a new chapter for Gillette. We card receivables portfolio but plans financing, will enable Target to reach stainless steel, it’s universal on an induction are stepping quite consciously into the style to pickup talks later this year. an agreement with a high-quality finan- top, it’s universal on a gas top. Yo u can pop it in space,” said Lally. “We are reaching out to The move comes after news last cial partner on acceptable terms.” the oven! Not a lot of pans you can do that with.” the worlds of music, fashion and film. These January that it was “actively” pursuing Target now believes it will be able But wait. There’s more. are guys with great facial hair styles.” the sale of its credit card receivables. to get a deal and sell the portfolio in “This is actually made out of stainless Brody, for his part, said his mother On its third-quarter earnings call in late 2012 or early 2013. steel — the handle!” he said. “The great thing liked to call his Van Dyke look “the Three November, the Minneapolis-based re- According to Deutsche Bank ana- about this is you can grab this with a towel, Musketeer.” The actor was tapped for tailer said it anticipated a deal clos- lyst Charles Grom, today’s news is and take it out of the oven and you’re not the ads after directing a commercial for ing before chief financial officer Doug “negative” because it will “reduce going to burn your hand.” Gillette’s Mach 3 razor brand for the Latin Scovanner retires at the end of March. the amount of capital that manage- Scott said he was so blown away by their America market last year. Today, Target indicated it would ment can free up to repurchase stock merchandise that he knew instantly that he In the first three quarters of 2011, pay roughly $2.8 billion to Chase Card and invest in its business.” wanted to be the Bon Appétit Collection Chef. Gillette spent $153.5 million in advertising Services to retire receivables financ- Target’s “inability” to secure a buyer “I tried the pressure cooker and I was in the U.S., according to Kantar Media ing from 2008. The payment, along suggests that management is “overvalu- like there’s no way I’m not going to be the figures. — DAVID LIPKE with a premium, is expected to shrink ing” the business, he said, adding that if Target’s fourth-quarter earnings by the economy continues to erode, hold- about 8 cents a share. ing the credit business could “expose Earlier this month, Target low- total company EPS” to further augmen- CIT Said to Be Approving Orders for Sears ered its fourth-quarter guidance tation as the year progresses. to between $1.35 and $1.43 a share, “Given the upcoming retirement SEARS HOLDINGS CORP. got some breath- mation about Sears’ finances and even pos- from $1.43 to $1.53 a share. of long-standing cfo Doug Scovanner, ing room as factoring firm CIT is said to be sibly requiring letters of credit for all orders. “Our desire to sell the portfolio on that the sale of the credit unit will approving orders again. Representatives from Sears are in New appropriate terms remains the same not transpire on his watch is dis- Credit sources said that those approvals York meeting with trade financiers. The first today as it was when discussions couraging to us given his knowledge for vendor financing could begin as early as meeting was with CIT on Wednesday. began, but we believe that now is not of the segment and the high degree today. Terms of the deal between Sears and A spokesman for Sears declined com- the time to finalize a transaction,” said of complexity such a transaction will CIT were not immediately available, but con- ment, while a spokesman for CIT could not Scovanner, executive vice president entail,” Grom concluded. tacts in the factoring and credit community be reached for comment by press time. and cfo. “We believe a pause in discus- — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD said CIT was looking for more detailed infor- — VICKI M. YOUNG 10 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012

The new SoHo store. Louis Vuitton Outlines Rome Film Collaboration and temples were constructed By SOFIA CELESTE by Italian artisans. “I never felt like an artist — ROME — Louis Vuitton aims to an artisan, yes,” said sculptor perpetuate handcrafted artistry Gianni Gianese, who worked with its latest film project. on historic Italian films like The French maison outlined Federico Fellini’s “And the Ship FOR MORE the details of a three-year part- Sails On” and “City of Women.” IMAGES, SEE nership with Italy’s oldest film “We share a lot of values in school, Centro Sperimentale di common: transmission of heri- WWD.com/ Cinematografia (Italian National tage, savoir faire, passion for market-news. film school) — an endeavor that creation and support of talent. will fuse Louis Vuitton’s savoir faire with the Italian cinema- tographers, set designers and costumers of tomorrow. Louis Vuitton’s support will Camuto’s Expanding Universe assist in the formation of an honors committee composed of housed in a section in the back open stores in key markets out- key figures in cinema; the tutor- By LISA LOCKWOOD of the store. Along the back wall, side New York. ing of young talents enrolled at a floor-to-ceiling video screen “Every one of them has to the National School of Cinema; VINCE CAMUTO is putting his displays footage of the Vince be a winner, so we’re look- the establishment of a schol- business in the fast lane. Camuto lifestyle, including ing at Fifth Avenue, Madison arship for students with lim- Marcello Foti On the heels of his suc- brand imagery, ad campaigns, Avenue, the Mall at Short Hills, ited means; and the creation of cessful ready-to-wear launch, product shots and celebrity fans. Michigan Avenue and The workshops to complement the Camuto, chief executive officer The store drew inspiration Grove in Los Angeles,” Camuto school’s current curriculum. We share that this is the old- and chief creative officer of from the architecture and in- said. He declined to give first- In its first year, the partner- est school, and we are a very the Camuto Group, has opened terior design of traditional vil- year projections for the new ship will involve a costume old brand. It was very easy a new store on Broadway in las during the Renaissance. store, but said the strategy workshop focusing on the design from the first discussion to un- SoHo and will roll out a new Diamond motifs and quilting was to showcase the footwear, of the late 17th century, a proj- derstand how this partnership swimwear line at retail this techniques are combined with a handbags and accessories, with ect that will involve the partici- would live,” said Geoffroy van month. Swimwear is the latest rich color palette. a capsule of the sportswear. pation of famed Italian costume Raemdonck, South Europe pres- addition to the rapidly growing “The store opened a few days “Eventually ready-to-wear designer Piero Tosi. ident of Louis Vuitton. Vince Camuto lineup, which before Christmas,” said Camuto could become its own store,” includes footwear, apparel, in an interview at the shop. “It’s he said. fragrance, dresses, outerwear, a prime space on Broadway. As Camuto said the company A look at a design by jewelry, handbags, eyewear, space goes down here, this is has been very pleased with the Ditta Pieroni. belts, cold-weather accessories incredible real estate. It’s near launch of the ready-to-wear, and home. The company de- the subways and the corner, so which is produced by Bernard clined to divulge how much vol- we grabbed it,” he said. Chaus Inc. “It’s more than posi- ume Vince Camuto merchan- At the store, Vince Camuto tive. It really helped the Chaus dise generates, but said total footwear and handbags are business. It’s in over 600 doors, sales have doubled every year displayed against a white wall but we’re not looking to blow for the past three years. along the right side, while VC it out,” said Camuto, prefer- The swimwear, which is li- Signature footwear and hand- ring instead to have controlled censed to Swimwear Anywhere, bags are positioned against a growth. He said he plans to roll takes its cue from Camuto’s ac- brass and brown wall on the left. out more classifications. “We’ll cessories lines, using many of Velvet magenta and olive bench- do more leathers, jackets and the same hardware and details. es are lined up along the middle, pants, and sweaters will become For example, there are pyramid and an emerald green sofa is a full line,” he said. Camuto’s studs on the bikinis that tie back situated in the apparel area. offer to help Chaus go private, to the jewelry, and snakeskin as reported in September, is still prints that relate to the footwear. being negotiated. Bikinis, one-piece suits and “The launch went even be- “Cinema has taken a lot Louis Vuitton will open a cover-ups wholesale from $70 yond our expectations,” said from the fashion world,” new Rome boutique, the Etoile to $130, according to Rosemarie Ariel Chaus, vice president said Marcello Foti, Centro Maison, at the end of this month, of business development at in a historic venue that has been DiLorenzo, chief creative of- GEORGE CHINSEE Sperimentale’s general direc- ficer, chief executive officer Chaus, in a separate interview. tor. “But fashion has taken a lot dedicated to a cinema for al- and co-founder of Swimwear “There’s no better partner than from cinema,” Foti added. most a century.

Anywhere. The company also PHOTOS BY Vince. Retailers have so much Highlighting the project’s in- The Rome Maison is one of has the license to manufacture respect for him.” spiration and ambitions, Louis 14 Louis Vuitton Maisons in the Michael Michael Kors, Marc Camuto said he has ambi- Vuitton presented a 50-minute the world. The sprawling bou- by Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Juicy tious plans for VC Signature as documentary made by Italian tique will come complete with a Couture and Liz Claiborne swim- well. The VC Signature collec- journalist Laura Delli Colli and screening room. wear brands, among others. tion of footwear includes shoes director Guido Torlonia, nar- Despite Italy’s lagging econ- “We try and take the DNA retailing from $195 to $325; rated by Chiara Mastroianni and omy, Louis Vuitton hasn’t aban- [of Vince Camuto] and work booties for $395, and boots from produced by Luchino Visconti di doned plans to invest further seamlessly with them,” said Vince Camuto $495 to $595. (In comparison, Modrone. in Italy, and will open another DiLorenzo. She said the line is and a model the Vince Camuto footwear line The film pays homage to the Maison in Venice later this year, influenced by certain embellish- wearing a ranges from $118 to $170 for exquisite tradition of Italian van Raemdonck explained. ments, such as neon pop colors, bikini from shoes; $150 to $200 for booties cinema artisans and costume “Italians are a key consumer sequins, prints and Camuto’s the new line. and $200 to $270 for boots. designers, and includes clips for us. We need to look at the fu- love of skins. “It’s a very sophis- The company plans to open from epic films like “Ben-Hur” ture. Italy will get out of this cri- ticated line. It has sleek silhou- a totally separate VC Signature and “Kundun,” whose columns sis,” van Raemdonck said. ettes and is geared to a very mod- Camuto said he’s seeking store on Madison and 88th Street ern woman. She can be a young more locations in New York, in Manhattan in March, which professional…a young mom,” following the opening of a store will feature footwear and hand- Gianni Gianese she said. The swimwear, which is at Grand Central Terminal. He bags. At present, VC Signature based at Swimwear Anywhere’s also said he’s redoing the Shoe footwear is only available in headquarters at 1441 Broadway Box stores that he owns and Nordstrom, Camuto’s own stores in New York, will be introduced turning them into Vince Camuto and its Web site. The company at stores such as Nordstrom, stores. These boutiques are lo- also intends to launch a VC Lord & Taylor, Dillard’s and cated throughout Manhattan, Signature clothing line. Belk, as well as specialty stores as well as the Americana in “We plan to do other catego- and vincecamuto.com. Manhasset, N.Y., and Wheatley ries with VC. We’re branding Camuto’s 2,500-square-foot Plaza in Greenvale, N.Y. The it in a big way,” said Camuto, flagship, which is located at 532 stores will carry Vince Camuto noting that they’ll be running Broadway (between Prince and footwear, as well as other foot- more than 25 ad pages for FOR MORE Spring), features both the Vince wear lines. Currently, Camuto spring in magazines touting the IMAGES, SEE Camuto and more upscale VC has eight stores in Manhattan VC Signature collection and WWD.com/ Signature collections of hand- (including the Shoe Box stores), will have a slew of social net- eye. bags and footwear. In addition, and he would like to increase working initiatives. Swimwear a selection of Vince Camuto that number to 10 or 12 within Anywhere said they’ve been sportswear and accessories is the year. He would also like to discussing a VC Signature WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 11 WWD.COM Fashion’s favorite violinist, Charlie Donatella Versace and Vogue Paris Siem, said that after the show he would editor in chief Emmanuelle Alt will host a Fashion scoops be heading back to London to perform dinner at Lasserre with guests including a concert at the city’s Science Museum, Abbie Cornish, Ludivine Sagnier, Daphne which will be aired on PBS. “It’s this Guinness and Riccardo Tisci. special musical show that will feature For the first time, the name of a MORE TO GO AT UNGARO? Following the designed for Dior, a miniature Lady Dior space images from NASA,” he said. specific product, the Etoile de la Mer, will departure of chief executive officer Jeffry bag in matte black dangling from her — KATYA FOREMAN appear on Versace’s ad campaign images, Aronsson last month comes further news wrist. Dior’s jewelry designer, Camille featuring Gisele Bündchen photographed by of retrenchment at French fashion brand Miceli, pawed through her purse to show Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott in California. Emanuel Ungaro. Retailers were informed off her own Reyle goodies, including a — LUISA ZARGANI this week that Ungaro would not be able metallic yellow key holder. to deliver its spring-summer collection Other attendees at the party DENIM DEMO: Kris Van Assche is the latest because of an internal reorganization, included Japanese model and actress designer singing the blues, with elements WWD has learned. Furthermore, Ungaro Lika Minamoto and French actress Valérie from a new collaboration with Lee due to said it would not present a collection for Donzelli. — MILES SOCHA feature in his signature men’s fall show fall-winter and canceled appointments for on Friday. The capsule Lee x Kris Van pre-fall, originally scheduled to take place PEACOCKS FAILS: Peacocks, the mass Assche collection of five items (comprising next week. British fashion retailer, has gone into two different jacket shapes, jeans, chinos Entrepreneur Asim Abdullah, who administration, as expected. Earlier and a shirt), are to be distributed in select acquired the brand from Salvatore this week, the company filed a notice of multibrand boutiques and Lee stand- Ferragamo in 2005, confirmed the intention to appoint an administrator. alone stores. Retail prices go from 200 reorganization but declined to comment Administration is broadly the U.K. to 400 euros, or $255 and $509 at current on specific measures. “We are going equivalent of Chapter 11 bankruptcy exchange. — ALEX WYNNE through an internal reorganization to protection. While Peacocks’ parent support a new business model that will company, The Peacock Group, had been GRAY FADES TO BLACK: Lisa Kline and Tracey allow the company to be profitable in in talks with its lenders to restructure its Ross are welcoming another member to the near future. The company remains 240 million pounds, or $370.8 million, in the club of shuttered Los Angeles area financially viable and we believe that debts, no agreement was ever reached. boutiques. Belle Gray, the Sherman Oaks the brand will continue to thrive under “Peacocks is a brand with great store started by acting couple Harry Hamlin the new strategy that we will discuss in heritage, and it is with deep sadness and Lisa Rinna in 2003, closed Saturday. the coming months,” he said. that we have been left with no other Belle Gray opened a second location in Officials at Ungaro have yet to confirm option but to place the business into Calabasas in 2005 and shuttered that store the departure of Aronsson, a U.S. administration,” said chief executive A Versace ad featuring Gisele Bündchen. four years later. It has been an influential turnaround expert who joined the firm officer Richard Kirk. “We have worked purveyor of the California casual look with last June. The planned reorganization, tirelessly over the past year to agree THE VIEW FROM VERSACE: Versace will brands such as Michael Stars, J Brand which will likely involve job cuts, is the a new financial structure to take the mark the launch of a new capsule and Joie. There’s no word yet on whether latest chapter in a rocky recent history for business forward in the current, tough eyewear collection for spring, called Belle Gray, which takes its name from the brand, which has yet to find a lasting retail environment, including seeking Etoile de la Mer, with a dinner in Paris the middle names of Hamlin and Rinna’s replacement for its founding designer new investment for the business.” on Jan. 23, the night of the brand’s first children, could pop up again in brick-and- PUCCI’S PICK: Emilio Pucci has tapped since he retired in 2004. — WWD STAFF Peacocks has more than 600 stores in couture show since 2004. mortar or another form. — WWD STAFF Cinzia Bernasconi as senior vice president the U.K., and has recently been upping of its North America Division, as the CHANEL HITS SIN CITY: Chanel is hosting a its fashion quotient, with collections company focuses on expanding in the lavish outing this weekend in Las Vegas, designed by London socialite Pearl Lowe. U.S. Bernasconi will report directly to flying nearly 200 guests into town on — NINA JONES chief operating officer Alessandra Carra. Friday via private jet. Expected VIPs Pucci operates seven boutiques in the — who will be treated to a first look at LOUBOUTIN, BERGDORF AND PROJECT U.S. and is available at department Chanel’s opulent “Numéros Privés” PARSONS: Christian Louboutin, stores including Saks Fifth Avenue, installation at the Wynn hotel—include Bergdorf Goodman and Parsons The Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Jessica Alba, Alexa Chung, Jen Brill, Poppy New School for Design called upon Nordstrom. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Delevingne, Anouck Lepère, Bee Shaffer, Brad the talents of the school’s alumni to Bernasconi previously held Goreski, Lisa Marie Fernandez and assorted help celebrate the footwear brand’s management positions at Roberto editors. The exhibition encompasses 20th anniversary. The competition Cavalli and Cesare Paciotti, and 10 distinct spaces, each dedicated to was open to design students was most recently vice president a specific aspect of Chanel’s history who graduated in 2010 and 2011, Spaces of Rossimoda USA, which is also and brand. Rooms include a children’s encouraging them to create apparel controlled by Pucci’s parent company, bedroom with dolls designed by Karl inspired by Louboutin’s silhouettes LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. — Lagerfeld, a re-creation of Coco Chanel’s of the past two decades, as well as COMMERCIAL L.Z. REAL ESTATE iconic apartment at 31 Rue Cambon, the brand’s new capsule collection. Assistant Controller ACCOUNT EXEC a room meant to evoke the interior The first step of the contest, which Premier apparel company seeking an Women’s Apparel Company Seeking of a classic Chanel 2.55 handbag and asked participants to submit mood, assistant controller. Responsibilities an Experienced Account Sales Execu- include assisting with monthly finan- tive with a proven track record of sell- a garden showcasing Chanel’s fine illustration and fabric concept cial reporting, forecasting, variance ing, strategic planning, prospecting/ jewelry. Visitors enter via a curtain of boards, narrowed the submission analysis, cash flow and special projects negotiating. Must be a team player, including analysis of business per- organized, highly motivated and have Major Seventh Avenue Retail/Whole- formance metrics. 10+ years apparel white beads, symbolizing Coco Chanel’s pool down to 20 applicants, selected sale Furrier has showroom, office, knowledge of Excel, and Photoshop. experience; CPA preferred. Resumes Great growth opportunity; 5+ yrs favored pearls. “Numéros Privés” by Simon Collins, dean of the Parsons vault and factory/shipping space avail- to: [email protected] able. Ideal for shearling, leather, fur experience required; salary commen- will be on view from Jan. 20 to 28, by School of Fashion. From this group, lined or accessory company. Call 212- surate with experience. Please email STOP HERE!!! invitation only. — DAVID LIPKE Christian Louboutin and Bergdorf ’s Linda 239-8787 or [email protected] ASSISTANT DESIGNER resume to: [email protected] Fargo picked five winners, each of LADIES OUTERWEAR Seeking Asst. Designer for all aspects whom received a stipend provided SALES REP of product development. Prepare tech Private label Canadian-based ladieswear packs, daily communication w/ overseas sportswear co, currently doing brand- by the brand and retailer to produce offices. Knowledge of specs and fit re- 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes ed collaboration w/ majors seeks sales his or her garments — to be unveiled quired. Must be efficient in Illustrator pro with dept store & majors contacts at the Christian Louboutin 20th- Menswear Showrooms and Photoshop. Fast paced environ- for PL business. Comp negotiable. ment. Please send salary history and Email: [email protected] anniversary event at Bergdorf ’s D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 resume to: [email protected] THE TOD’S TEAM: Tod’s showed a teaser video at its men’s presentation on in early February. “What I found Showrooms & Lofts CORPORATE PLANNER exciting and interesting about all BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Sunday of stylish and double-barreled Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Leading men’s apparel co seeks Corp the finalists is that they took an ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Planner to create open-to-buy process aristocrats including Carlo Borromeo, L for all channels of distribution, exe- element of each of the shoes, or a cute forecasting, buying and merch Ferdinando Brachetti Peretti, Gaddo

aste planning strategies. Detail oriented Della Gherardesca, Gelasio Gaetani c unique detail, and created something FRAGRANCE SALES and exp in fast paced environment. completely different,” Louboutin Email: [email protected] Madison Avenue Lovatelli D’Aragona, Giovanni Gastel Luc Delphine Arnault, Sidney told WWD. “The translation was not BRITISH luxury brand seeking FT/PT and Guglielmo Miani. Details are still PERFUME and COSMETIC sales Toledano and Bar Refaeli. literal, [and] that is one of the things HYP professional for MAD AVE retail store. under wraps, as this is the first step in a

Photo by I really liked about these designs, Production Manager Competitive salary and benefits. High wider project believed to be a portrayal Intimate Apparel. Resp for costing, end retail exp on Mad Ave A+ because that is also how I approach pos, tracking WIP, cost engineering, Send CV to: [email protected] of Tod’s lifestyle worldwide.— LUISA GOOD SPORTS: “I feel like I’m at some loft my work.” The winners: Isaias Arias, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, vendor compliance, qc and on time de- ZARGANI PRODUCTIONS livery. Must be detailed, organized in Chelsea,” Bar Refaeli said, surveying Joanna Baker, Manuela Di Prima, Vivian Graf Full service shop to the trade. multi-tasker w/knowledge of compo- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 the scene Thursday night in Paris and . nents of garment construction, prod- SAFE BET: There’s safety in Hyeyoung Kim — RACHEL STRUGATZ uct development and manufacturing as Dior hosted a party at Galeries SAMPLE ROOM processes. Excel skills a must. numbers for Luxottica, the Italian Lafayette’s exhibition space to fete BROTHER TO BROTHER: Sitting in the Patterns/ samples/ small lots. Please email: [email protected] luxury eyewear producer and Call Angela: 212-944-6900 Dior’s product collaboration with front row at Calvin Klein’s men’s show, www.thefactory212.com distributor, which is investing one contemporary artist Anselm Reyle. Joe Jonas said he was looking forward million euros, or $1.28 million at current With fluorescent artworks glowing to attending the opening night of his on the walls, a DJ pumping out house brother Nick’s latest Broadway show, tunes and guests lining up in front of “How to Succeed in Business Without a camouflage-print photo booth, it was Really Trying,” at the end of the month. SALES I am seeking a position with manufac- worlds away from the hushed gray “I plan to spend a lot more time in turer of Junior, Junior Plus & Kids. couture ambiance of Avenue Montaigne. New York as we’re also going to start Experienced and aggressive with con- And so the model-turned-lingerie- working on a new album together,” tacts. 917-359-3741 designer made a beeline for the foosball added Jonas, who reminisced about table. Her opponent? None other than his first Broadway experience as a Dior chief executive officer Sidney Toledano. teenager in “La Bohème.” “Opera (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Delphine Arnault held court near was new to me, I didn’t speak a display of the accessories Reyle Italian,” he laughed.

w19a011a.indd 11 1/18/12 8:28 PM 01182012202937 Tap Into the Industry’s Greatest Resource WWD. Now Available on iPad®

EXISTING WWD SUBSCRIBER? NOT A SUBSCRIBER YET? • The iPad® edition is included • Purchase an iPad® subscription today • Visit the App Store or wwd.com/app to access • Visit the App Store or wwd.com/app to buy MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: Bottega Veneta’s first men’s boutique Short on Style in the U.S. is sure to make a statement, Golden Globes host Ricky Gervais’ fashion choices were far from according to creative award winning. Here are some extra tips for improvement. Page MW2 director Tomas Maier.

January 19, 2012

RELIABLE RETAIL Italian Labels Remain True To Brand DNA Retailers cite Burberry Prorsum, McQueen and Bottega as top shows. Blackout by WWD STAFF It’s over to Paris, where the fall men’s wear shows MILAN — In a strong and polished and, at times, entertaining Milan Fashion Week, kick off today. Here, brands delivered the goods while staying Dior Homme’s Kris Van very much within their comfort zone — fo- Assche inspects one of cusing less on experimentation and more on mining their DNA. the collection’s outerwear “No big surprises, a really tame season. stunners — austere yet People are doing well what they do best — they’re staying true to who they are,” said voluptuous. For a behind- Eric Jennings, vice president and men’s the-scenes peek inside the fashion director for Saks Fifth Avenue. “Sober yet stealth,” is how Barbara studios of Paris, see pages Atkin, vice president, fashion direction at MW4 and MW5. Holt Renfrew, Canada, described the sea- son, which blended sportswear pieces with more formal attire. Calling 2011 a “record year of sales” for the Toronto-based spe- cialty chain, with double-digit gains, Atkin said Holt Renfrew plans to “drive continued growth through 2012, and we are planning our men’s wear business accordingly.” Yasuhisa Suzuki, coordinator men’s fashion, Tobu Department Store Co. Ltd. Japan, said, “In Europe we are doing bigger investments, because currently the euro is very low.” Despite a general optimism for the year to come, many retailers said they are erring on the side of caution. “We won’t grow too quickly; everyone’s controlling their inven- tories right now,” said Jennings, who men- tioned Burberry Prorsum among the week’s highlights, saying it reminded him “of why I love this business and men’s wear fashion, when it’s done in the right way.” In addition to Burberry Prorsum, other collections receiving high praise included Alexander McQueen and Bottega Veneta, with Gucci, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ermenegildo Zegna, Neil Barrett and Missoni also mentioned. Darren Skey, head of men’s wear buying and merchandising at Harvey Nichols, com- mented: “For us, there were three really standout shows, and one presentation. We loved Burberry Prorsum’s great countryside- inspired themes and English-heritage look. We surprised ourselves by falling in love with Versace; the first half was tricky, but the lat- ter half, with all the glitz and glamour and embroidery, was wonderful. Our customer loves that sort of thing. We also thought Dsquared2’s good kids and bad kids show was great.…We thought Jil Sander, with the shiny, wet look, “Matrix”-inspired leathers was interesting — rather than a standout. The presentation we loved was Alexander

PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW6} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 Men’s Week Bottega to Open Uman Expands Collection for Fall by KATYA FOREMAN Angeloni today is also chief executive officer Men’s Store in N.Y. of the Italian high-end men’s wear brand Caruso, MILAN — “Uman is ready to roll,” declared which manufactures men’s formalwear for a num- by LUISA ZARGANI Umberto Angeloni, founder of the conceptual ber of prominent brands. He is also a minority Milanese tailored clothing label, which on Friday shareholder in Caruso. MILAN — Bottega Veneta is gearing up to open its presented what it billed as its first full ready-to- Until now, distribution for the Uman label has first men’s boutique in the U.S. in May. Located off wear collection. been limited to six boutiques in five countries, plus Madison Avenue on 67th Street in New York City, it The expanded Uman wardrobe, which can marks the increased relevance of the brand’s men’s be ordered in a range of fabrics, spans jack- wear division, which now accounts for about 30 per- ets, suits, coats, pants, shirts, ties and scarves, cent of Bottega Veneta’s sales. with knitwear likely to be added in the coming “Men’s is a fast-growing business for us, and the seasons. Retail prices range from $150 for a tie opening of this store makes a statement,” said cre- to around $3,000 for a suit. Since its launch in ative director Tomas Maier at the brand’s sprawling 2009, Uman has based its seasonal presenta- Milan headquarters, where he showed his men’s fall tions around its suit, in only blue hues, as well collection on Sunday. as three new editions to its range of so-called The store will introduce a new blueprint, which will “social jackets,” which are inspired by men’s reflect Maier’s vision of a man and his needs while shop- passions, such as sports and travel, with an ac- ping. “We don’t want to make men walk through women’s companying book launched each season to ac- bags — it’s a little awkward for them.” With the new con- company the designs. cept, with “different materials and colors,” which Maier is Celebrating classic elegance, the fall looks still keeping under wraps, the designer said he will focus were awash with refined sartorial details, on “what a man would like to find” in a store — a shoe wall from a technically impressive white shirt with organized by function, for example. “A man-friendly” envi- no yoke seam at the back to artisanal details ronment was top of mind for Maier, who added that men “are on the ties. Suits were made from an array of Looks from the Uman presentation in Milan. more confident to wear accessories now. It’s a way to express weighty traditional tailoring fabrics, such as an individual point of view. It can also be a ribbon, a detail, a pure Shetland wool, a wool-silk pinstripe and flan- one Web-based retailer, Park & Bond. Angeloni leather strap, because they are craving something individual.” nels. An impeccably cut wool coat had a removable said he’s ready to widen distribution in Europe and

Over the past 10 years, the designer has been expanding GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY shaved-mink lining. The house is even broaden- Asia, though Barneys New York is to continue as the brand’s product offer, and the New York men’s store will Tomas Maier is ing its color palette, adding two alternative classic the label’s exclusive retailer in the U.S. also carry furniture and interior design items as well. increasing his color options: brown and gray. The label will also open its first bespoke atelier Maier said Bottega Veneta has seen strong growth globally, focus on men’s. Angeloni said he recently started to feel the this spring, based at its concept room on Via Gesù but noted that 2011 was “an incredible year” for the brand in heat from retailers to broaden the Uman offer. in Milan. A master tailor will be available by ap- the U.S., where customers are “more focused on quality.” There are current- “Ultimately, of course, it’s an innovative concept, but pointment. Ready-to-wear blazers, shirts and ties ly 24 stores in the U.S. Last year, the company refurbished its San Francisco, it’s also [simply a] suit, it’s an item of consumption, will also be available. The 2,000-square-foot space Chicago and Bal Harbour, Fla., venues, expanding square footage. so it should be shown as part of a wardrobe, not just will house an atelier, a library of men’s wear litera- The company said men’s bags continue to perform very well and that the a concept,” conceded the soft-spoken executive. ture and Angeloni’s whiskey collection. men’s shoe category is also growing very rapidly. Men’s is also gaining traction in emerging markets, and the company opened its first men’s store in the world in Shenyang, China, in the L’Avenue A Quick Draw Fly shopping center, in May 2011. item by Tommy Last year, Bottega Veneta launched its first men’s cruise collection. John. Quick Draw A NEW MEN’S UNDERWEAR item will be hitting stores in Calvin Reveals New Ads early February: Quick Draw Fly underwear by Tommy John. The styles, which will feature a brief, a trunk and a boxer CALVIN KLEIN scoured the latest campaign, which was shot by Mert brief priced from $25 to $32, are designed with a horizontal crop of young models for its under- Alas and Marcus Piggott on St. Barth’s fly with “fewer layers,” explained designer Tom Patterson, wear and denim spring advertising Guanahani Beach. Terry said it was who launched his first Second Skin collection in 2009 with an campaigns, which mark the debut of his first time in the Caribbean and undershirt that does not ride up. “Most flies in the market are 20-year-old model Matthew Terry. only his second time outside the U.S. either vertical or horizontal, but with a lot more layers. This new “It was an amazing experience,” Both the underwear and jeans design is lighter in weight with fewer layers for functionality,” said said the Pennsylvania-born Terry campaigns break globally this month, Patterson. All packaging will feature the Quick Draw Fly tag line and backstage at the brand’s men’s show with the underwear being featured in an online and in-store marketing campaign is in the works. The styles, in Milan Sunday night, referring 16 markets, in titles such as GQ (U.S. in sizes S to XXL, will be rendered in MicroModal spandex and blends to the shoot for the men’s under- and Mexico), ESPN, Men’s Health of polyester and spandex, one with mesh for ventilation. In addition to wear line. “It was my first time in (U.S. and Mexico) and Out. It will be black and white, colors include navy, red and royal blue. California, and it was great to work complemented by outdoor campaigns Wholesale sales for Tommy John men’s underwear and T-shirts to- in the desert with such a great team.” in eight countries, including the U.S., taled $1.5 million in 2011 and sales are projected to exceed $4 million Shot in Joshua Tree by Steven Canada, Mexico, the U.K., Spain, with the new product launch. — KARYN MONGET Klein, the bold and brightly colored Germany, Australia and China (Hong images, which embody the brand’s Kong), as well as online placements athletic, sexy aesthetics, feature on men’s lifestyle, sports and enter- Terry along with Myles Crosby, tainment sites. Television spots will Man of Arran Sly and Chris Garavaglia. air in Hong Kong. The model, who signed with the The jeans will run in 19 markets, THE WEEK RICKY GERVAIS: D Ford agency in May and got his start in such titles as Vogue (U.S., China, on the catwalk in Milan in June, Mexico), Vanity Fair, Elle (U.S., used to work in construction and in Canada, Quebec, Mexico), Elle Men The Golden Globes host The pale English rose needs to visit a tanning a supermarket before starting his (China), Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle (U.S. may have tamed his salon, and please trim the beard. You’re not career as a model. “My parents are and Mexico) and GQ Taiwan. Outdoor humor for this year’s a model on the runway of the Paris shows. very excited, and more than proud,” campaigns will run in 13 countries, he said. “And my friends are jealous including the U.S., Canada, Mexico, broadcast, but he let The only saving grace is that there’s no ruffle. but happy for me at the same time.” Italy, France, Spain, Australia, China his fashion side go And spring for a bow tie next time. Terry, whose future plans include and Korea, and there will be online wild. This Seventies building a reputation in personal placements on more than 55 fashion, prom suit is probably He mixes way too many fashion elements and training, also appears with model music and lifestyle sites. the hybrid peak-shawl lapel is one of them. Lara Stone in the Calvin Klein Jeans — ALESSANDRA TURRA the most comical thing he did all night. Some It’s not bad enough that it’s two pieces, things in history should we need to add another layer?

never be repeated and The jacket is too small, it’s pulling everywhere. that’s especially true Maybe if he lost the vest, it would fit. for a shiny burgundy tuxedo with black Too much pressure on the seam, leading to embarrassing wrinkles and a wardrobe contrasting lapels. malfunction waiting to happen. He’s too old for this trendy, Ted Baker It was already a mistake when he ensemble. He should wore bell-bottoms back in the day. opt for a Savile Row Please don’t be a repeat offender.

tuxedo instead and Orthopedic sneakers for people with represent his country back problems are appropriate. Take an with honor. Aleve and wear evening lace-ups. An image from the underwear campaign. PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 Men’s Week

Standing at Topping things off at John Galliano. attention at Yves Saint Laurent. M PARIS

T Who let the dogs out at Thom Browne? & +

PHOTOS BY MARLEEN DANIELS, STEPHANE FEUGERE, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND FRANCK MURA

PARIS — It’s crunch time in the men’s wear studios of Paris. WWD paid a visit as designers put the finishing touches on their fall fashion statements. — Laurent Folcher

Time for Parting Behind takeoff shots at bars at at Adam Kris Van Damir Kimmel. Assche. Doma. Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 MW5

Head in the clouds String theory at at Rick Owens. Phillip Lim.

Just another brick in the Fancy pants at wall at Jean Dries Van Noten. Paul Gaultier.

Viktor & Rolf’s very own Spicebomb.

Spinal tap at Louis Vuitton. MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 Men’s Week RETAILERS EMBRACE SOFT CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES FROM ITALIAN BRANDS {Continued from page MW1} was stunning, showcasing all the fantastic becomes a surprising key item of the season.” McQueen. We will certainly be finding the Burberry overcoats. One of the collections I’m most ex- Sound off: “We are planning strong growth in money to buy it. We loved the Prince of Wales Prorsum cited about hitting our floors is Z Zegna. Paul knitwear, outerwear, novelty dress pants and checks, and all of the leather and wool. Surridge’s first collection for the house was sport jackets, particularly the soft decon- Between the Victorian theme and the country stellar. His collection was the perfect mix of structed jacket.” gent, it was a strong play on English heritage.” slim suits and sophisticated sportswear of- For David Aquilina, buyer for interna- fered in a very masculine color palette.” David Aquilina, buyer for international tional designer at Lane Crawford, a “new- Rich wintry colors were a major trend designers at Lane Crawford found sophistication” defined the collec- with berry tones, blues and forest green Trendspotting: “Eveningwear has…been tions. Barrett presented his most mature leading the way. key with most brands, not only offering the show to date, he said, “focusing on stream- Here’s more from the buyers: classic tuxedo, but also more commercially lined tailoring and a toned-down take inspired takes on this men’s wear staple in on outerwear. He also offered a fantastic Cindy Ho, fashion director, 360 Style in Kuwait jacquards, satins and — most noticeably for capsule collection based around tuxedos, Trendspotting: “A very beautiful men’s season fall-winter ’12 — velvets.” which was available only in the showroom.” in general, with superrich textures such as Sound off: “With instability within the global Knitwear, tailoring and outerwear were the jacquard, silk velvet….It is nice to see [such market continuing to haunt 2012, it is impor- salient categories expected to drive business a rich offer] for men, as it has been miss- tant that the products that we present to our for fall. Fabrications remained focused on ing for some seasons. It is time to dress up. customers hold a certain level of integrity. all things quintessentially British. Aquilina [Things are] playful, but in a very chic way, Not only are our customers going to be seek- mentioned a strong focus on herringbone, with classic suits in new cuts and [new ways ing new and innovative products, but they houndstooth and Prince of Wales check, with of coordinating looks], with shirts, waistcoats are also after a sense of value for money.” “tonal grays as the new black.” and accessories.” The Italian influence came through on soft Sound off: “So far, I am not disappointed with tailoring, with the sweater jacket omnipresent. anything, but will find out in the showroom Prada “The weights are incredible, too. You think — and if the prices are favorable.” it would be so heavy, but when you throw it on over your sport coat or your suit, it really Anita Barr, director of men’s wear at Selfridges fits well, it doesn’t feel like you have a jacket Trendspotting: “There was lots of black leather on,” commented Matthew Singer, men’s fash- — we particularly loved the accessories at Jil ion director, Neiman Marcus Stores, Neiman Sander, and especially the leather lunch bag. Marcus Direct and Bergdorf Goodman. That collection had a very, very dark Thirties At the other end of the spectrum, the Berlin edge to it. Both Jil Sander and Burberry double-breasted suit made a strong return. had the child animal motifs, and we liked the “There is a high level of attention to dress- country theme at Burberry, too. There were a ing more formally and elegantly, dressing lot of heritage fabrics and country sports refer- like a gentleman. Prada was the catalyst and ences, and tailoring was very strong.” directional, as usual,” said Tiziana Cardini, Sound off: “You always find more formal fashion director at La Rinascente in Italy. looks in Milan, while in Paris you get a com- “All of the beautiful tailoring and outer- pletely different sort of vibe. And men are wear will drive our business at Nordstrom,” dressing more formally in general. The boys said Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice presi- on my team really dress up now for work — dent, designer merchandising for the Seattle was gorgeous, and we’re really excited that you don’t see jeans and T-shirts anymore.” retailer. “The resurgence of tailored clothing they’ve introduced a made-to-measure ser- will resonate with our customers. Double- vice with Huntsman. Overall, budgets are up Darren Skey, head of men’s wear buying and mer- breasted has never looked better. We also this season to reflect our investment in men’s chandising at Harvey Nichols loved all of the oversize outerwear, peacoats, wear at the store. It’s a healthy business.” Trendspotting: “Great outerwear and knit- and turtlenecks that dominated the runway.” Kevin Harter, vice president of fashion wear, great techniques for knits and a varia- Anita Barr, director of men’s wear at for men’s and home for Bloomingdale’s, said: tion on necklines. We also saw lots of snoods Selfridges, noted: “The highlight for us was “The Italian designers offered us clothes and scarves. Also, velvet suitings in great Prada — it set the tone for the week. We liked that were opulent yet very masculine, which colors like red, bottle green and army green. the elegance of it — it was a very powerful our customer loves. I always love Burberry And you don’t have to wear those velvet suits show. And, of course, Gary Oldman at the Prorsum but thought Christopher Bailey together — you can take the jacket and pair end. It was a real moment, and it left us all showed his strongest collection to date. As al- it with jeans or other trousers.” buzzing. We loved Burberry Prorsum, too — it ways, there was an abundance of great outer- Sound off: “It was bloody freezing in Milan. If was stronger than the summer collection and wear, but I was thrilled with all the luxurious we could have taken some of the outerwear just a beautiful show. [Alexander] McQueen cashmere sweaters and the suitings. Prada straight off the runway, we would have.”

Toby Bateman, director of buying for MrPorter.com Umit Ermenegildo Trendspotting: “Full-length coats with belts. Benan Zegna Teddy-bear coats (humanely killed, we are as- sured)…animal motifs and feathers appearing as print detail. Slippers everywhere — in vel- vet, mostly, but also patterned. Shoes in two- tone. Camouflage patterns. Military details — brocade and trimmed-down trouser legs.” Sound off: “In general, the collections were quite tailored and smart. They were com- Yasuhisa Suzuki, coordinator men’s fashion, mercial, but designers have stuck true to Tobu Department Store Co. Ltd. their DNA in feeling.” Trendspotting: “Strong and interesting colors, voluminous shapes, knitwear.” Matthew Singer, men’s fashion director, Sound off: “This fashion week was very con- Neiman Marcus Stores, Neiman Marcus Direct servative and too commercial.” and Bergdorf Goodman Trendspotting: “You’re definitely seeing that Kevin Harter, vice president of fashion for men’s stronger suit come down the runway. The one- and home for Bloomingdale’s and-a-half breasted suit, which really holds Trendspotting: “The longer overcoat will be the its shape when unbuttoned and is really fresh statement piece for fall 2012, shown on the and modern….With it being fall, there were runway in beautiful herringbones, tweeds and a lot of scarves coming down the runway, but cashmere. Slimmer suits continue but, again, they were superlight….For footwear, I saw a in sophisticated fabrics and much more pat- lot of burnished toe effects and dress boots.” tern. Knits seemed very updated, whether it Sound off: “There hasn’t been any letdowns was longer cardigans used as outerwear piec- this season.” es or the pairing of classic turtlenecks with blazers and suits. Also felt strongly about all Barbara Atkin, vice president, the corduroy and velvet that we saw.” fashion direction at Holt Renfrew, Canada Trendspotting: “There seems to be a new re- Maurizio Purificato, owner Antonia Uomo laxed formality where the roll-neck sweater Trendspotting: Clean lines; the comeback acts as alternative to the tie, and heavy-knit of both the duster and the loden coats; re- cardigans enter the realm of modern outer- visited British style; velvet; cotton chinos; Salvatore wear. Evening separates seem to have taken shearling; running-inspired jackets in tech- Ferragamo center stage, as the statement formal jacket nical fabrics. Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 19, 2012 MW7 Project Vendors Reinvent the Classics

by JEAN E. PALMIERI looks from Pendleton and other which retail from $140 to $400, are shearling coat for $3,995. related brands that could be sold inspired by the art world and fea- Denim also continued to be THE HERITAGE MESSAGE con- at a reasonable price. A lot of her ture “incongruent details.” The fall a key part of the show. tinued to ring true in men’s collec- customers don’t have money for collection, for example, is based Denim pioneer Scott tions for fall, as brands exhibiting upscale designer collaborations, on taxidermy and offers porcupine Morrison’s brand, 3x1, of- at the Project show stuck to clas- so she was seeking a more “ap- claws, raccoon teeth and rubber- fered rare selvage denim and sic men’s wear silhouettes reinter- proachable” price point. Brands ized rooster feathers as details on twills for fall. Finishes were preted in a modern way. that manufacture in the New York the slim neckwear offering. raw and rinsed in mid- and “It’s like raiding your grand- area, or at least in America, were “When you’re in an oversatu- heavy-weights. “We’re seeing father’s closet,” said Marylynn also being given top priority. “If I rated market,” Meizler said, “you retailers focus on quality and Piotrowski of Smith & Butler, can stay local,” she said, “I like to have to be different.” details over mass-market ap- who has had success selling au- support that.” The brand is also offering tie peal, which is a very welcome thentic brands such as Barbour, Many of the labels at the show bars with sterling silver chains, change,” Morrison said. In ad- Pendleton and Filson at her produced their collections in the reversible cuff links and revers- dition to denim, Morrison also A honeycomb sweater from Simon Miller. Brooklyn-based specialty store. U.S. That includes Black Sweater, ible scarves for fall. offered a selvage chino group “But it takes our generation to a line by documentarian Jamie Designer Todd Snyder set up with the M2 military fit espe- averaged $550. There was also tweak it. I call it recycling,” she Johnson based on the legend of a a pop-up at the show, complete cially popular. an innovative tubular cowl-knit said, noting that she expects a society hostess from Florida at the with brands that complement the Los Angeles-based Simon scarf with a leather closure. And more relaxed version of heritage turn of the century who sent black collection’s updated Americana Miller, which has focused on every jacket used nanotechnol- to take hold by next fall. cashmere sweaters to anyone she sensibility, including Bates hats, denim for the past five years, ogy, meaning they were wind- and Piotrowski was shopping the wished to banish from the social Tricker’s shoes and Maxx & launched a knitwear collection water-resistant. show for the latest sportswear scene because of behavior she Unicorn wallets. “We come from for fall. “We don’t want to be just Ernest Alexander, a line rooted found indecent. Johnson’s collec- a retail background,” said David a denim brand or a California in accessories, showed its versatil- tion reflects upper-class society at Bruno, director of merchandising brand,” said the company’s Jake ity with a sportswear collection Ties by Title of Work. this time and offers “formalwear and sales. “So give us an opportu- Sargent. So in addition to the that included waxed-canvas field with a twist,” according to consul- nity and we’ll make a shop.” jeans in four washes, the booth jackets lined with Loro Piana tant Jake Post. All items use British On the apparel side, Snyder showcased a lightweight alpaca- wool; sweaters knit in Italy; or- fabrics such as tweeds and her- showcased the company’s expand- linen sweater for $330, as well as ganic jersey T-shirts; suiting vests; ringbones, and everything is pro- ed collaboration with Southwick a beefy wool-angora-mohair blend button-down slim-cut oxford shirts duced in America, including the for a collection of men’s suits, in a modified honeycomb pattern, in Japanese pima cotton, and a cashmere sweaters and Japanese- dress shirts and neckwear for fall, priced at $895. A felted shawl cashmere blazer. fabric shirts. Key items include all of which are manufactured cardigan was $750, and all the Delphine Germano, the New a heavy hooded wool coat with a in the U.S. Although the manu- sweaters were knit in the U.S. The York liaison for Le Bon Marché in velvet stripe for $1,750; a wool and facturer has produced Snyder’s brand also offered its interpreta- Paris, was most interested in the velvet sport coat for $1,487; a wool suits since his launch last year, tion of the five-pocket slack, using accessories she found at the show. herringbone blazer with a gun pad the shirts and ties are additions a fabric most often seen in outer- “There are so many clothing lines for $1,525, and a silk stocking regi- for fall. Key styles include unlined wear. “It lends the five-pocket a in Europe, I need to bring some- men coat for $1,550. Post said the sport coats in tweed or double- sense of sophistication you don’t thing else, so I’m more focused company is also hoping to expand faced camel hair and wool that see in jeans,” Sargent said. on items that tell a story.” She its sweater business. can be worn with jeans or chinos. At Johnny Love, the brand of- singled out Dedegumo watches One unique neckwear company The brand also offered an expand- fered men’s wear shapes for its and Lexdray luggage. But she also was Title of Work, a collection by ed outerwear collection, including outerwear that were familiar but singled out the 3x1 denim line former women’s couture designer a fully quilted melton wool coat sexier, such as trenches shaped and also sought “preppy sports- Jonathan Meizler, who jumped into with removable lining and silver to the body and wool coats with wear you can wear in town,” while PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY men’s bespoke last year. The ties, fox hood for $2,695, and a hooded leather-trim collars. Retail prices walking the show.

H.W. Carter & Sons Capsule Spotlights Heritage and Outdoor

by DAVID LIPKE fabrics, as highlights of the show. at Lucky Brand, of the partnership with Also on her shopping list was footwear at Riviera Club. Driving home the brand mes- STURDY HOLIDAY SALES gave men’s re- Above Tree Line, a new section of Capsule sage, hangtags are printed with a California tailers an auspicious start to the New Year dedicated to outdoor brands. “Hiking boots speeding ticket. and lent buyers an upbeat attitude at the are the new duck shoes,” quipped Mankins, In the main Riviera Club collection, plaid Capsule show in New York, which show- who also picked up outerwear from shirts — the trend that won’t die — contin- cased 250 brands in a new location at 550 Fjällräven in that section. Wood chips, tree ued to sell well, and the motif also decorated Washington Street earlier this week. Key stumps and the smell of pine set the rustic a reversible down vest. trends included toggle coats, Fair Isle sweat- mood within the area. A counter aesthetic was on view at ers, tweed suits and sport coats, suede elbow Footwear was also a priority for Randy Number:Lab, which incorporated perfor- patches, American heritage themes and mili- Brewer, co-owner of Convert in Berkeley, mance fabrics and athletic influences into tary influences — particularly camouflage Calif., who is opening a nearby shoe store in its directional sportswear. Hooded jackets motifs on everything from shoes to neckwear. March under the same name. Brewer picked were fashioned from neoprene, blazers were “Our holiday was superstrong, and up the Tretorn and Gram footwear lines, coated with polyurethane and gym essentials we were up considerably over the last both from Sweden. “We focus on recycled melded sporty jersey with mesh and wicking year,” said Jen Mankins, owner of Bird in and eco-friendly lines, and Swedish brands fabrics. Even a classic duffle coat was given Brooklyn. Accessories have been a particu- always fit into that mold,” said Brewer. “In a modern edge with enameled metal clasps larly healthy business for Mankins, and she apparel, I liked Field Scout, which had very replacing the traditional horn toggles. singled out Porter, the Japanese bag maker, clean lines, and Pendleton’s Portland collec- The American past came alive in the H.W. and Forage, a tie brand from Philadelphia tion, which had really beautiful outerwear Carter & Sons collection of flannel shirts, that specializes in ties made from deadstock and sweaters — and great umbrellas with ticking stripe thermals, painter pants and The label was acquired by Nicholas Brooke the Pendleton print on them.” denim overalls inspired by the first half of and Dominic Hazlehurst in 2005, but contin- Holiday sales at Convert were “amazing” the 20th century. Originally founded in 1849 ues to make much of its product in its historic said Brewer, with hats, scarves, underwear, but dormant in men’s wear for the past sev- Long Eaton, England, factory. Its underwear, socks and headphones driving sales. “People eral decades, the brand is being revived in boxers, T-shirts and polo shirts ($48 to $130) were spending more freely and picking up the category this year by designers Greg are made from exceptionally soft and dura- those extra items. There was more impulse Chapman and Chris Grodzki, who have ac- ble long-staple Egyptian cotton and loomed buying. Something in the economy feels a bit quired the license. Core retail prices for on lace machines. Boxers features Sunspel’s more positive,” he observed. the collection are $125 to $325, and the duo signature scoop seams, and long underwear Lucky Brand and Riviera Club debuted plans to open a retail store in Williamsburg, comes in elegant merino wool styles. a collaboration for fall, encompassing 14 Brooklyn, on North Sixth Street in March. While workwear and rugged outerwear styles. The line includes three jeans ($195 to Gloverall, a heritage brand from the other was a common theme for many brands, Ovadia $215 at retail) in various washes, including a side of the Atlantic, showcased the iconic duf- & Sons offered a counterpoint with its sophis- dark rinse in a chino body, and a light wash fle coats the company has made since 1951. ticated tailoring and urbane sportswear. A with paint splatter made in organic Italian “We are repositioning the brand with new fits, “winter white” capsule in the line emphasized selvage denim. Western shirts lined with jer- styles and labeling,” said Mark Smith, sales pale tones, such as white corduroy trousers sey ($150), a field blazer in army green cotton director for the Northamptonshire, England- with antelope suede trim, a pearl gray sport ($285) and a soft, garment dyed hoodie ($125) based brand. For fall, that included duffle jacket, a camel sweater with suede elbow emblazoned with “Jalama” — the name of a coats in Harris tweed, Locharron tartan patches and a plush cream Fair Isle sweater. prime surfing beach north of Santa Barbara and a Seventies-style corduroy model with Also on display were tweed suits, waffle car- — rounded out the collection. shearling interior ($500 to $700). digans, cashmere turtlenecks for layering, tas- “We are both California brands and we Another legacy British brand, Sunspel, sel loafers with Dainite soles for traction and a Ovadia & Sons wanted to fuse our heritage,” said Joshua founded in 1860, has also recently revamped military group that included ties embellished

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