PLUS: A RELAXED MOOD AT PITTI UOMO. PAGE MW1

MILAN’S MOMENT: DESIGNERS REVEAL THEIR INSPIRATIONS FOR MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK, WHICH KICKS OFF SATURDAY. PAGES MW6 TO MW8

A NEW GEM David Yurman Taps Glen Senk as CEO

By MARC KARIMZADEH

NEW YORK — Glen Senk’s move to David Yurman Inc. comes with a relocation to New York and an WWD ownership stake in the TriBeCa-based company. Senk, who surprised the retail world when he THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 stepped down as chief executive officer of Urban Outfitters Inc. on Tuesday, will be joining the pri- vately held company as ceo on Feb. 27. David and Sybil Yurman, the husband-and-wife artists and com- pany founders, declined to disclose the size of Senk’s stake during an exclusive interview with him at their Vestry Street headquarters on Wednesday afternoon, but were full of praise for the executive, who has served on the board at Yurman for more than a year. “First and foremost, he is a friend,” Sybil Yurman said. “We have seen what he has done in his profes- sional life, so for us it was a really easy decision. He just has an exceptional record in expanding multi- channel and multinational retail.” David Yurman added that he was particularly impressed by Senk’s aesthetic sensibility. “He has a great eye and a great appreciation for things of quality, whether it’s a horse, a house, a piece of Fur Now furniture, shoes or jewelry,” he said. “The nature In a 180 from spring’s girly confections, of our company is about creating quality in design and materials. We spent a year and a half looking Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall collection, designed for a ceo, and I don’t think that was ever in the brief. by studio style director Julie de Libran, was After a while, we were so exhausted, and I said, ‘Why don’t we just create a brief and say that we loaded with flannels, military touches and want someone like Glen?’ graphic fur accents. The latter has proven a “That’s what we want, but he wasn’t willing to do resounding trend this season, and at Vuitton the cloning process,” Yurman added. Senk said that he was particularly interested in it came au sauvage via big fox patch pockets, the Yurman business model. “I have always made my tufts on shoes and in contrasting colors decisions in my life based on gut,” he said. “I always on a long vest, shown here. For more, view my aesthetic sensibility as a strength and a weakness. It’s a weakness in that I have an inability see pages 4 and 5. to compromise. One of the many things I love about SEE PAGE 8 Following the Candidates The Republican presidential ON THE candidates may be about to trade the outerwear and sweat- TRAIL ers they donned against the Campaign 2012 New Hampshire chill for clothes more suited to the warmer climes of South Carolina, but some of their comments are likely to follow them South. While Mitt Romney won the New Hampshire pri- mary, he made a few gaffes in the Northern state — and none worse than his comment about firing people. He told a group of business executives at the Nashua, N.H., Chamber of Commerce on Monday that he likes “being able to fire people who provide services to me.” Romney’s full remark went like this: “I want indi- viduals to have their own insurance. That means the insurance company will have an incentive to keep you healthy. It also means if you don’t like what they do, you can fire them. I like being able to fire people who provide services to me.” It was unfortunate timing for Romney, who has had to defend his tenure at Bain Capital against charges the investment firm bought and sold companies that led to significant layoffs while he and his partners made millions of dollars. But a presidential race is as much about style as substance — and so far the candidates have made a lot of missteps. Romney looked suitably casual in New Hampshire, as did Rick Santorum, but Ron Paul looked downright uncomfortable in his dressed- down duds while Newt Gingrich needs to lose a few pounds — or at least don a version of the Santorum sweater vest. Here, WWD introduces a regular feature, On the PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE Trail, tracking what the candidates have said — and how they have dressed. SEE PAGE 6 THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD

Glen Senk, who surprised the retail world when he stepped down as ceo of Urban Outfitters on Tuesday, will be joining David Yurman as ceo on Feb. 27. PAGE 1

The Republican candidates on the issues — and a dissection of ‘Net Increases their style this week. PAGE 1 The Continued Growth of Online Apparel Shopping India adopts a rule to allow 100 percent foreign ownership of Change is occurring more rapidly, making the science of ship in a timely manner, make returns easy, and often single brand retailers. PAGE 3 measuring change more exciting. For 17 years, the Cotton provide free shipping to further incentivize consumers,” Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey has measured Lipsman says. “Successful retailers also have a very The SEC dropped its investigation of American Apparel, changes and consistencies in consumer attitudes and habits. strong brand, very competitive pricing, or both.” boosting the company’s stock price to $1. PAGE 3 For most of those years, these findings have been shared More than one-fourth of consumers (27%) purchase in the Thursday issue of WWD. Beginning in February, apparel online, up significantly from 6% a decade ago, however, the Lifestyle Monitor weekly columns, and the Monitor survey shows. And 6% buy most of their The Tod’s Group names Roberto Lorenzini chief executive officer other industry analyses, will be found exclusively online apparel online, up from only 1% a decade ago. of its North American business. PAGE 3 at www.cottonlifestylemonitor.com. As we bid farewell Whitfield says online newcomers, like flash sales to the printed version, we take a look back at some of the and daily deal sites, have also facilitated apparel sales influential changes of the past decade-and-a-half. in this category. Dolce & Gabbana “strongly reject” claims that representatives at its Canton Road store in Hong Kong engaged in discriminating “Sites like Gilt, RueLaLa and so many others keep or derogatory comments. PAGE 7 t is hard to believe there was once a time when apparel more top of mind among those who shop online consumers were wary of shopping online. Internet for it. This continued evolution of the e-commerce Iapparel shopping queries first appeared in the business model keeps shoppers interested and coming The luxe casual trend continued at Pitti Uomo, Lifestyle Monitor survey in 2000. Today, responses back. They’re part of the apparel landscape.” which saw strong traffic. PAGE MW1 reveal that nearly two-thirds of consumers (66%) Where ten years ago the process was straightfor- browse the Internet for clothes, up significantly from ward, today’s online shopping is no longer simply about 26% a decade ago. Men’s online making a purchase. Content is also Z Zegna’s Paul Surridge looks to the Roaring Twenties browsing jumped from 22% “Compared to 10 years key, with more brands and retailers as influence for his debut collection. PAGE MW1 ▼ in 2002 to 59% in 2011, while ago, shopping online is very providing e-zines that not only tout women’s leapt from 28% to 71%. their wares, but celeb interviews, cock- different. Back then, it was The Designers & Agents trade show will launch And this past holiday season tail recipes and travel tips. ... ‘If I put my credit card a new men’s edition called D&A Man in New York proved e-commerce has not only “We’re coming back to sites that this July. PAGE MW2 caught on, but is thriving. number into the Internet, have a curated feel—like Park & comScore reports retail will I get the item?’ Bond, which marries the idea of e-commerce spending for the ” commerce backed with content,” Spearheaded by chief executive officer Massimo November/December 2011 Jordy Leiser, STELLAService Whitfield says. “Ralph Lauren Suppancig, the rejuvenated Jet Set brand is set for a holiday season reached $37.2 also does a great job of that. It’s presentation at men’s fashion week in Milan. PAGE MW2 billion, marking a 15% increase versus last year and an an approach that’s gained traction”—and inspires all-time record for the season. Ten individual shopping customers to return. Top designers and brands share the inspirations behind their days surpassed $1 billion in spending, led by Cyber Currently, consumers spend nearly one hour and 45 creations for the upcoming fall Milan men’s shows. PAGE MW6 Monday, which dominated for the second consecutive minutes browsing the Internet for clothes each month, year at $1.25 billion. up significantly from one hour and 20 minutes a decade Apparel is consistently one of the top selling ago, according to the Lifestyle Monitor survey. American tailoring is having a renaissance — but with a e-commerce items. In 2011, clothing and footwear A lot of that browsing has lead to improved con- softer touch. PAGE MW10 Internet sales accounted for 15% of total Internet sales version rates. In the last year, 65% of online retailers in the U.S., according to Euromonitor International. reported increased conversion rates due to more And over the past decade, clothing and footwear e-commerce site testing, improved checkout pro- Hart Schaffner Marx turns 125 years old this year and to mark Internet sales have grown faster cedures and other enhancements, the milestone, parent company HMX Group is creating a capsule than total Internet sales in the U.S. according to Forrester Research collection for fall. PAGE MW14 Do You Browse the (284% versus 220%). Inc. and Shop.Org. Internet for Clothes? The strength of the online Positive online shopping experi- ON WWD.COM apparel industry should only ences also boost conversion rates, Yes No continue to grow, says comScore’s says STELLAService’s Jordy Leiser, IMAGES Andrew Lipsman, vice-president, 74% co-founder and CEO. “Compared 66% Celebrity Fashion: industry analysis. to 10 years ago, shopping online Nicole Richie Nicole Richie, Emily Blunt “Many consumers who were 34% is very different. Back then, it was and Aubrey Plaza prove 26% balances originally resistant to purchasing ‘Will the payment be secure?’ Or, ‘If soft with that pink can be as RODRIGUEZ/GETTY

apparel online have become signifi- I put my credit card number into the E. edgy sexy as it is sweet. For cantly more comfortable with the Internet, will I get the item?’” Leiser in this more celebrity fashion, 2002 2011 process,” he says. “Better and easier says. “Once the security companies Antonio see WWD.com/eye. ALBERTO Berardi return policies have reduced critical Source: CottonLifestyleMonitor.com were able to validate and encrypt BY barriers to purchase, and helped your credit card, it became all about suit. accelerate online spending in the apparel sector.” the experience. These days, you can buy a North Face PHOTO Kantar Retail’s Mary Brett Whitfield, senior vice- Jacket from any company, so which will give you the TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. president, says online apparel buying comes naturally to best online experience and service?” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. younger shoppers. Leiser says e-tailers should be available and responsive COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 8. THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays “Gen Y shoppers, the oldest of which are 29 or 30, via phone, email or chat; have a customer-friendly site and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL grew up with online shopping. They don’t worry about with easy-to-find tools like search, shopping carts and OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles security and privacy, touch and feel, or the ability to try contact info; and make every interaction count. H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada something on. So we’re poised to see even higher growth “Since they’re all selling similar items, the companies Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND rates as more of them establish their households.” that lead their category are those that are wholly focused ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, Since Gen Y is known for needing instant gratifica- on providing a great service experience.” Those e-tailers ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent tion, the most successful e-tailers will remove all obsta- who can combine great content with great service will label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, cles to purchase. “The best sites are easy to navigate, be poised for even greater growth in the next decade. you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at sales@ scoopreprintsource.com. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide This article is one in a series that appears in these pages on Thursdays. The data contained is based on findings Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, a consumer attitudinal study, as well as upon other and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE of the company’s industrial indicators including its Retail Monitor and Supply Chain Insights analyses. 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WwD thursday, january 12, 2012 3 WWD.COM ’’ Tod’s efforts to restore the India Adopts FDI Retail Rule Colosseum hit another snag in global best practices and technology that will Wednesday. By MAYU SAINI lead to a more competitive marketplace benefiting the consumers,” he said. NEW DELHI — Foreign retailers can own single- The government has stipulated that certain brand stores in India after all. conditions will need to be met before allowing The Indian government on Tuesday passed a sole ownership. The most important of these is notification that allowed foreign firms to whol- that the company will need to source 30 percent ly own single-brand retail chains in India. The of its goods from Indian small, village and cottage change initially was proposed by the government industries and artisans. This rule would appear to cabinet on Nov. 24. make it unlikely major luxury brands will want to wholly own their stores in India. The definition of small industries here is those that have invested up to $1 million in plant and We hope the initiative machinery. “This will provide stimulus to do- mestic manufacturing value addition and help in is a precursor to further technical upgradation of our small industry,” said Anand Sharma, commerce and industry minister. The U.S. India Business Council estimates that liberalization in the sector with the opening up of this segment, India’s sin- gle-brand retail market will more than triple over in the days to come. the next five years, from the present $7 billion to $20 billion to $25 billion — Rajan Bharti Mittal, The notification comes close on the heels of the Foreign Investment Promotion Board clearing Tod’s Taps Roberto Lorenzini Bharti Enterprises French retailer Christian Louboutin’s proposal to set up retail chains in India. The Tod’s Group has erates eight freestanding Tod’s The decision Tuesday put to rest fear in the Retailers in India have welcomed Tuesday’s named Roberto Lorenzini as stores and two Roger Vivier industry that the proposal might, in the end, dis- move, as foreign companies now have the option to chief executive officer of its stores, with a third Costa Mesa, integrate like the one approved at the same time buy full company ownership from their local part- North American business, Calif., unit set to open in April. to allow 51 percent foreign direct investment, ners, having had the benefit of the know-how and overseeing the Tod’s, Roger In other news, Tod’s ef- or FDI, in multibrand retail. That proposal was local knowledge of the Indian partners. Shares of Vivier and Fay brands. His forts to restore the Colosseum put on hold after protests by the opposition in retail chains such as Shopper’s Stop Ltd. increased first official day was Jan. 2. He in Rome hit another bump Parliament. by 5.1 percent, and those of Pantaloons by 4.4 per- is based in New York, report- on Wednesday — and it’s not Many single-brand retailers such as Hermès, cent as the news reached the markets. ing to Stefano Sincini, chief ex- a small one. The Court of Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Tommy The issue of FDI in multibrand retail has ecutive officer of Milan-based Auditors and Rome’s public Hilfiger have entered the Indian market via part- come up for a renewed examination as well. “We Tod’s SpA. prosecutor are investigating nerships — single-brand retail with’’ 51 percent hope the initiative is a precursor to further lib- Lorenzini replaces Marco the luxury house’s agreement FDI has been allowed in India since 2005. Over eralization in the sector in the days to come,” Giacometti, who has been ap- to sponsor the restoration of the last few years the debate about increasing this said Rajan Bharti Mittal, managing director of pointed global manager of the iconic amphitheater. amount has been contentious. Bharti Enterprises, which is the partner for Wal- e-commerce for Tod’s Group. It is understood a nation- As Rajiv Kumar, secretary general of the Mart in India. Giacometti will relocate from al union of cultural assets Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce However, as industry analysts assess the situ- New York to Milan. Prior to his and activities, the Segreteria and Industry, pointed out, the latest move will in- ation, the consensus seems to be that multibrand U.S. appointment four years Nazionale della Unione crease FDI, “but it will also lead to more choices retail would not be allowed until at least after the ago, Giacometti was ceo of the Italiana del Lavoro Beni e for consumers. Global retailers are bound to bring Parliament elections later this year. company’s French business. Attività Culturali, has request- Lorenzini was most recently ed to shed light on eventual commercial director at Etoile penal and fiscal responsibili- Group, the Middle East luxury ties in assigning the sponsor- Birks & Mayors Names New CEO retail operator. Prior to that ship, referring to a lack of position, he was president and documentation that would de- Birks & Mayors, the Montreal-based jeweler, Richemont International from 2002 to 2004. He ceo of Sixty USA and president tail the works and the permits. has appointed ex-Boucheron chief executive offi- began his jewelry career at Richemont-owned and chief operating officer of Rome’s prosecutor is evaluat- cer Jean-Christophe Bédos as ceo and president, Cartier in 1998. Versace USA. Earlier in his ca- ing if there has been any abuse effective April 1. For the first half of fiscal 2012, Birks & Mayors reer, Lorenzini held positions at of authority at the superinten- Bédos, who left Boucheron in June, will fill said its net loss narrowed to $5.6 million, or 49 Fendi, PricewaterhouseCoopers dent or officer levels. the role of Birks & Mayors’ chief operating officer cents a diluted share, from a year-ago loss of $9.5 and Deloitte & Touche. The mayor of Rome, Gianni until the firm’s current president and ceo, Tom million, or 84 cents a share. For the nine months ended Alemanno, said the agreement Andruskevich, resigns in the spring. Sales for the 26 weeks ended Sept. 24, in- in Sept. 2011, Tod’s Group with Tod’s has always been one Until then, Bédos will report to Andruskevich creased 16.8 percent to $129.9 million, from sales in the U.S. increased 15.9 of “extreme transparency” and and Lorenzo Rossi di Montelera, the company’s $111.2 million. percent to 43.8 million euros, harshly defined as “madness” chairman. He will be based in the firm’s head of- This followed a similar trend for the fiscal year or $56 million at current ex- the latest events. Indeed, the fice in Montreal. ended March 27, when the company shrank its change. Overall company sales, union issued a statement later Andruskevich, who joined Birks & Mayors in annual net loss to $7.7 million, or 68 cents a di- which also include the Hogan noting that it would not want 1996, revealed his resignation in September, citing luted share, from a loss of $19.5 million, or $1.71 a brand that is not currently “to lose the investment of 25 his desire to pursue “board positions and advisory share, a year earlier. distributed in the U.S., were million euros, to the damage of roles for luxury brands and other high-end com- Yearly sales grew 6.2 percent to $270.9 million, up 14.8 percent, to 699 million the most prestigious monument panies.” As a result, he will stay on as vice chair- from $255.1 million in 2010. euros, or $893.2 million, in the of Italy’s cultural patrimony.” man of the board at Birks & Mayors. Birks & Mayors operates 61 luxury jewelry same period.  — DavidLipke andLuisa Prior to a seven-year stint at Boucheron, stores, 27 of which are located in Florida and In the U.S., Tod’s Group op- Zargani Bédos served as managing director of Cartier Georgia, and the remaining 34 in Canada. France and international executive manager at  — ALEXANDRAsTEIGRAD SEC Backs Off American Apparel John D. Goodman Exits Sears Holdings as its “financial reporting and By Evan Clark internal controls.” named executive vice president, is said to be selling well, though In May last year, American By David Moin chief merchandising officer and Sears sales overall have not been Dov Charney is breathing a Apparel was subpoenaed president, Sears and Kmart for- good. After a weak holiday sea- bit easier today. again as the financial regula- In yet another big change mats. Two days later, Goodman, a son, Sears said it would close up The Los Angeles re- tory body sought documents at Sears Holdings Corp., John D. 22-year veteran of retailing, was to 120 stores and take steep charg- gional office of Securities related to a complaint filed Goodman, executive vice presi- out. On Wednesday, the company es in the fourth quarter. Other re- and Exchange Commission, by a former employee with dent of apparel and home, has confirmed Goodman’s departure. cent proprietary lines launched which was investigating the Occupational Safety and left the company. In addition, the apparel team during his tenure are UK Style by Charney’s American Apparel Health Administration related Goodman joined Sears at Sears Holdings includes Lana French Connection, for Sears, as Inc. on several fronts, told to the firm’s accounting of for- Holdings in November 2009 Cain Krauter, president of Sears well as the Sofia by Sofia Vergara the firm Monday that it did eign currency transactions and and had been leading efforts apparel and senior vp of Sears and Dream Out Loud by Selena not intend to recommend any transfer pricing. to clean up and focus the mer- Holdings, and Tara Poseley, presi- Gomez collections at Kmart. enforcement action against American Apparel said chandising at the Sears and dent Kmart Apparel and senior Prior to Sears Holdings, the company. it cooperated fully with the Kmart divisions and redirect vp Sears Holdings. There are Goodman was chief execu- Investors drove shares of subpoenas and investigation, the appeal to younger, trendier also two chief marketing officers: tive officer at Charlotte Russe. the firm up 15.6 percent to $1. which was completed. customers with junior and con- Sheila Field at Sears Apparel, and Before that, he was chief appar- The SEC issued American The action removes a bur- temporary styles. Robin Creen at Kmart Apparel. el and home officer for Kmart. Apparel a subpoena in den from the company, which On Jan. 3, Ron Boire, the Under Goodman’s watch, He started his career in the August 2010 for documents Charney, as chairman and former Brookstone president Sears launched the Kardashian Bloomingdale’s executive train- related to a change in the chief executive officer, is work- and chief executive officer, was Kollection last September, which ing program. company’s accountant as well ing to turn around financially.

w12a003a.indd 2 1/11/12 8:06 PM 01112012200719 4 WwD Thursday, january 12, 2012 Pre-FallCollections 2012 i s e av P

a nn ova Matthew Williamson i G d n

Inspired by everything from Russian a re t czar architecture to Jeff Koons, Matthew i ma

Williamson showed a bohemian-esque e collection of wool coats with jewel- qu embroidered trimmings, brocade pants ini dom and colorful furs. , ne o cc

a Louis Vuitton No. 21 Roksanda Ilincic nn a i “It’s a small world” was studio Alessandro Dell’Acqua proved that With Lego blocks as her style director Julie de Libran’s opposites attract at No. 21 by balancing inspiration, Roksanda Ilincic

thomas motto at Louis Vuitton, where she traditional men’s wear staples, such as showed looks in primary hues EN,

S emphasized the house’s heritage a double-breasted camel felt coat, with and color blocks on delicate as a globe-trotting brand. Military hyper-feminine pieces like fluid silk bell-sleeve frocks, as shown on ERICK

LE touches looked charming on pants in a soft baby pink. this sculptural dress. Y

K trompe l’oeil prints, while the by famed “Sprouse” leopard print was reworked on a gray flannel suit. photos

w12a004a(5);11.indd 1 1/11/12 8:17 PM 01112012201836 WwD Thursday, January 12, 2012 5 WWD.COM

FOR MORE pre-fall, SEE WWD.com/ Pre-Fall 2012 runway.

Costume National Ennio Capasa’s Costume National collection featured structured asymmetric looks in dark shades, as well as tailored suits in punchy monochromatics like magenta and teal.

Moschino Giambattista Valli Creative director Rossella Jardini A master of blending various motifs, Barbara Bui mixed elegance with a pinch of rock Giambattista Valli showed an eclectic mix ’n’ roll. A wool jacket and miniskirt of prints, tweeds, brocades and fur. They Looking to Faye Dunaway’s featured furlike jacquard details, appeared on dresses, coats and his new character in “Network,” and a vintage house pattern was “basic proportion,” a rounded top paired Barbara Bui worked a Seventies reinterpreted as a colorful graffiti. with slim trousers. motif in a modern way with knee-length skirts and dresses cut longer in back, as well as cool cocoon-shaped coats.

w12a004a(5);11.indd 2 1/11/12 8:17 PM 01112012201836 6 WWD thursday, january 12, 2012

On the Trail Caption go here for this As the race to become the Republican candidate to face President Obama in the general election in November moves forward, economic issues remain at the forefront.

Here’s what the GOP hopefuls have been our know-how, our brand names. They’re saying on the campaign trail: hacking into our computers, stealing in- Mitt Romney formation from not only corporate com- n On Unemployment puters but from government computers, Front-runner Mitt Romney, who won the and they’re manipulating their currency. New Hampshire primary Tuesday and And if I’m president of the United States, the Iowa caucuses at the beginning of the I’m not going to continue to talk about month, committed what could become a how important China is and how we have lingering political gaffe when he said: “I to get along. And I believe those things. want individuals to have their own insur- They’re very important. And we do have ance. That means the insurance company Jon Huntsman to get along. But I’m also going to tell will have an incentive to keep you healthy. the Chinese it’s time to stop. You have It also means if you don’t like what they to play by the rules. I will not let you kill do, you can fire them. I like being able to Romney’s tenure as head of investment American jobs any longer.” fire people who provide services to me.” firm Bain Capital, said: “It’s clear he likes firing people. I like n On Taxes and Jobs creating jobs.” Huntsman: “I would have ripped open Gov. Rick Perry called the tax code and I would have done what firms such as Bain “vul- Simpson-Bowles recommended. I would tures” who “leave the skel- have cleaned out all of the loopholes eton” behind. and the deductions that weigh down Santorum: He’s not letting go of his sig- Former House Speaker this country to the tune of [$1.1 trillion]. nature sweater vest but layering it under Newt Gingrich said Bain We’ve got a corrupt tax code.” a blue blazer is a smart idea. He doesn’t “apparently looted the Former Pennsylvania Sen. Rick want to be remembered as the sweat- companies, left people Santorum: “I come from southwestern er-vest candidate. So pairing it with a totally unemployed and Pennsylvania, the heart of the steel coun- crisp white shirt enhances his physique walked off with millions of try, the heart of manufacturing, and it’s and helps elevate the look of the outfit. dollars.” been devastated because we are uncom- Overall, the ensemble is very traditional, petitive. No one…wants to zero [the cor- perfectly fulfilling his conservative ste- n On Trade porate tax code] out for manufacturers, reotype. Huntsman: “It’s nonsense which is what I do because we are at 20 Newt Gingrich to think you can slap a tar- percent cost differential with our nine top Gingrich: He looks like he’s at a piano bar iff on China the first day trading partners on average. And that 20 getting ready to break into a karaoke rou- that you’re in office, as Gov. percent cost differential, that is excluding tine. First, he needs to trim his hair. Then, Jon Huntsman, former gover- Romney would do.” labor costs. So it is government taxation. to minimize his gut, he might want to pick nor of Utah who finished third in the Romney: “China is stealing our intel- Eliminating the corporate tax gets rid of a up one of Santorum’s dark color sweater New Hampshire primary, referring to lectual property, our patents, our designs, big chunk of that. It’s regulation.” vests for $100. His attempt to dress down Texas Gov. Rick Perry: “Listen, I’m would have worked better if he’d opted not anti-union, I’m pro-job,” adding for a darker shirt. And he should but- that he supports “right to work” states. ton his blazer whenever possible and/or Texas Rep. Ron Paul: “The way to switch to a zip-up sportswear jacket. You’ve got friends get back to growth is in the business you have to liquidate Is your minority or woman-owned business ready the debt. But instead Ron Paul for the inside track to success in the retail industry? of liquidating the debt, We’re looking for stars like you! what we’ve done is the people who built up The Workshop at Macy’s is now accepting applications the debt on Wall Street for our Spring 2012 Program. Select high potential and the banks, we’ve participants will take part in a 4.5-day intensive training had the American tax- course, led by Macy’s seasoned pros and star partners, payer bail them out.… and designed to help you succeed and sustain growth The middle class is in the retail industry. now shrinking and we For more information and how you can be a part of it, don’t have jobs.” go to macysinc.com/workshop. — KRISTI ELLIS ON THE And here are some sug- gestions on their style: TRAIL Romney: The frontrun- Campaign 2012 ner nailed a much more laid-back attitude in New Hampshire with his choice of a checked shirt that provides casual ap- peal but is still dressy enough with its but- Paul: He’s channeling Mr. Rogers with ton-down collar. The well-studied rolled- the “everybody’s grandfather” look. up sleeves say he doesn’t mind getting his Wearing a navy tonal sweater diminishes hands dirty and help him look more like him physically, making him look small, the everyday man. The shirt fits him per- fragile and shaped like a pear. He needs fectly, slim but not tight, making him look to wear a blazer for structure and power. elegant yet approachable. The five-pock- He should switch outfits with Gingrich. et, form-fitting dark khakis and tonal belt And why is his nose so red? Was it cold in complete the sophisticated casual look. New Hampshire? He’d be right at home at Pitti Uomo. Huntsman: The youth- ful “Top Gun”-fearless cowboy-preppy movie star look is designed to exude masculinity and power, but actually comes across as insin- Willa Shalit, CEO of cere. He’s trying too Fairwinds Trading, Inc. hard to be one of the good guys. And he’s too old to wear the leather bomber jacket with em- blems, Western belt and khakis. He should opt for a more sophisticat- Rick Santorum ed elegant look and get

Romney photo by Justin sullivan/Getty imaGes; huntsman by matthew CavanauGh/Getty imaGes; GinGRiCh by andRew buRton/Getty imaGes; all otheRs by Chip somodevilla/Getty imaGes somodevilla/Getty Chip by otheRs all imaGes; buRton/Getty andRew by GinGRiCh imaGes; CavanauGh/Getty matthew by huntsman imaGes; sullivan/Getty Justin by photo Romney over the midlife crisis.

w12a006a.indd 1 1/11/12 8:45 PM 01112012204612 Caption go here for this

WWD thursday, january 12, 2012 7 WWD.COM

Protesters outside Dolce Fashion scoops & Gabbana in Hong Kong. GOING ONCE, GOING TWICE...: The three be accessed via iTunes and iPhone apps. state-appointed administrators of the The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman and his Mariella Burani Fashion group, which wife, fellow fashion photo blogger Garance is under government-backed bankruptcy Doré, will curate the first installment of protection, published on Wednesday, in the gallery with photos inspired by love a number of national and international and their own relationship. dailies, an auction bid for the sale of the During the week of Jan. 23, users will once high-flying group’s production hub be able to contribute to the site with in Italy’s Cavriago. Five stores, including their own photos. Three filters, black one on Rome’s tony Via Borgognona and white, peach and Tiffany Blue, will shopping street, are also for sale. non- be available to spruce up contributor binding bids should be submitted by photos. The filters, which are available Feb. 10. MBFg produces the Mariella on the Web site and via the page’s Burani brand and collections for iPhone app, will also provide the ability Ungaro and Matthew Williamson under to add captions and other special effects. licensing agreements. — WWD STAFF For users of the Instagram iPhone app, the portraits and captions may GIRLS’ BEST FRIENDS: The pre-golden be submitted via Instagram if the globes party whirl continued Tuesday captions include “#truelovepictures.” night with Forevermark Diamonds Additionally, users can visit Tiffany’s

Cheung/AP and InStyle’s bash at the Beverly hills Fifth Avenue store in new York, its Old

Kin hotel, where Best Actress nominee and Bond Street shop in london and its by guest of honor Michelle Williams declared ginza boutique in Tokyo, where photo herself, “Overwhelmed, excited and booths are available to take portraits Photo happy — all of the above.” At her side and upload them to the Web site. The for moral support was BFF Busy Philipps, booths will also print 4-by-6 images. who had practice last year as Williams’ The Valentine’s Day-inspired photo Dolce & Gabbana Refutes date throughout awards season. gallery will be updated several times a “We can finish each others’ sentences,” day and is slated to live well past Feb. said Philipps. “Which is great because 14. — ALExANDRA STEIGRAD Claims of Discrimination then I don’t have to talk,” added Williams, who said the pair planned to coordinate SEEING GREEN, NOT RED: Livia Firth, wife the people who were protesting were their outfits this week. “The key to being a of Oscar-winning actor Colin Firth, will By EllEn ShEng not target customers. good date is to not overshadow your friend mount the third green Carpet Challenge Short-term, though, the brand may in her big moment by wearing, say, a red beginning at Sunday’s golden globes hOng KOng — Dolce & gabbana want to think about doing some com- Jessica Rabbit dress,” said Philipps, whose when she will wear a Giorgio Armani- rejected claims that its staffers here munity outreach to placate the com- simple black givenchy sans jewelry set off designed gown using eco-friendly made controversial comments or en- munity – local hong Kong residents – Williams’ white Versace frock and delicate fabrics. livia Firth is a film producer gaged in an action that put the brand he suggested. To overcome this kind of Trau for Forevermark ring and bangle. and creative director of the online in the middle of long-simmering ten- controversy, Rudowski said it’s impor- Also coming out to ogle the bling on magazine and london store Eco Age and sions between local hong Kong resi- tant for the company to demonstrate display were Jessica Alba, Rebecca Romijn, champion of sustainable fashion. dents and big-spending Mainland to the public that they are part of the Nina Dobrev, Julianne Hough, Mary J. Blige and This year’s challenge will feature Chinese shoppers. Reportedly more community and “not just catering to Keisha and Forest Whitaker. — MARCy MEDINA gowns, suits and accessories created than 1,000 people assembled Sunday the rich.” by Chanel, Alberta Ferretti, Tom Ford, for a protest in front of Dolce & Simon Tye, executive director at LOVE, INTERACTIVELy: luxe jeweler gucci, Yves Saint laurent, Stella gabbana’s Tsim Sha Tsui store on Synovate in hong Kong, also said he Tiffany & Co. is letting shutterbugs put McCartney, Paul Smith, Valentino, Roger Canton Road, many of them bearing doesn’t see the incident having any in their two cents when it comes to Vivier and Ermenegildo Zegna. signs accusing the brand of discrimi- long-term impact. love. For the first time, the retailer will The gCC was founded by livia Firth and natory practices. “Most major brands will have [in- make use of user-generated content British journalist Lucy Siegle in December local media reported that last cidents] like this,” said, recalling the for its new photo gallery called “True 2009 when Colin Firth received a golden month a hong Kong resident attempt- negative publicity hermes got in 2005 love in Pictures,” which is set to globe nomination for Tom Ford’s “A Single ed to take a photo of the outside of when Oprah Winfrey was refused launch Wednesday. The gallery will be Man.” Since then, livia Firth has worn only the store and was barred from doing entry into one of the luxury brand’s housed on whatmakestruelove.com, the gowns using eco-friendly fabrics, including so by Dolce & gabbana personnel. At Paris stores. retailer’s microsite dedicated to the art one made from pieces of her husband’s old the same time, reports contended that helping to correct mistakes in the of romance and love. The page may also Tom Ford suits. — MARCy MEDINA Dolce & gabbana did not, in turn, re- Chinese market, whether real or per- strict Mainland Chinese tourists and ceived, are daily debriefings to go over foreigners from taking photos. issues and complaints as well as “mys- Referring to media reports regard- tery shopping” to help discover what ing the incident, Dolce & gabbana needs to be improved, Tye suggested. said that “controversial statements In the end, Chinese and hong reported in the hong Kong press have Kongers are more alike than not in not been made by Dolce & gabbana their love of luxury brands, providing nor its staff, and we strongly reject any a boon to Dolce & gabbana and other For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. racist or derogatory comments. It is luxury retailers. regrettable that Dolce & gabbana has “While this may have some effect been brought into this matter, but we on the brand image and domestic wish to underline that our company sale in the short term, long term ef- has not taken part in any action aimed fects are unlikely as consumers’ love Spaces at offending the hong Kong public.” of luxury and peer pressure from both A hong Kong-based spokeswoman de- the local and international press, the COMMERCIAL clined further comment on the incident. fashion industry and friends/family Though the incident is a short-term alike is likely to be greater than the REAL ESTATE DESIGNER - MEN’S PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Premium men’s sportswear line with dustup for the luxury brand, marketing current event,” said Fflur Roberts, PRODUCTIONS emphasis on tees, fleece, denim & out- Full service shop to the trade. erwear seeks designer proficient in experts say longer term the effects are global luxury manager at Euromonitor Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, plm/pdm negligible but touches on simmering International, noting how luxury con- Detail oriented & exp in fast paced envir- onment. Email [email protected] resentments between hong Kong resi- sumers in hong Kong and China are 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes dents and the steady influx of newly af- very brand-oriented. Menswear Showrooms ATTENTION CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS fluent Mainland Chinese. The protests reportedly gained D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 In observance of Martin Luther King, Jr. Day, The incident “highlights what’s traction on Facebook after an Apple WWD will not publish on Monday, January 16th. been going on in hong Kong for a long Daily reporter, who had heard about Showrooms & Lofts Fairchild offices also will be closed that day. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS time now with the wealth gap. [There hong Kong residents being barred Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Deadline for issue of Tuesday, 1/17 will be Friday, 1/13 at 12noon ET. are] stories that mainlanders are com- from taking photos, allegedly tried ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Thank you for your cooperation. ing in and buying property, making to take photographs and was threat- average home prices inaccessible. I ened by the store’s guards. Video of think this has highlighted the wealth the incident was posted on YouTube. gap. People think ‘why is it that these harbour City, the shopping mall that stores come in. I can’t shop there. houses the Dolce & gabbana store in Why can’t I take a photo?’” said Ray question, published an apology on its Rudowski, regional director for crisis Facebook page. planning and training at Edelman in “We regret what happened and we hong Kong. offer our sincere apologies to those “[The] protest is not a warning to concerned. This is a lesson learned… brand stores. It’s a warning to [the hong We have reminded our tenants about Kong] government,” said Rudowski. the public space usage on Canton Road (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] he doesn’t believe Dolce & and we have stepped up our training gabbana’s brand has suffered because for staff.”

w12a007a;11.indd 7 1/11/12 8:37 PM 01112012203826 8 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 WWD.COM Mizrahi to Launch Babies Line Senk Joins Yurman as CEO THE NEWLY MARRIED Isaac Robert D’Loren, chairman Mizrahi hasn’t finalized any fami- and chief executive officer of {Continued from page one} introduced to him through fashion financier and ly planning, but he will introduce Xcel Brands said, “I am very ex- this business is there is no compromise. David, private equity executive John Howard, a mutual a clothing line for babies this fall. cited to partner with bon bébé Sybil and the team have built the business or- friend. Sybil Yurman, however, stressed that even For the first time in his 30- to launch our fall 2012 newborn ganically and authentically based upon a consis- though they share Howard as a mutual acquain- year career, the designer is and infant collections. This li- tent aesthetic and brand DNA. I love the purity tance, there are no plans for an investment deal launching a signature collec- cense is a great addition to our of what they have done, and I love being able to with Howard, or to take the company public. tion for newborns and infants. growing brand.” take that and work with them to continue to ar- Senk stressed that the past year, during Xcel Brands Inc. has lined up The designer’s decision to ticulate that vision and leverage it in ways that which Urban Outfitters experienced a decline in a licensing deal with bon bébé sell baby’s clothes begs the are right for the brand.” profits, did not factor into his decision to leave. to manufacture and question of his own While Senk joining the firm immediately stirs As reported, Senk will be succeeded at Urban distribute newborn, expansion plans. speculation the Yurmans might be looking to ex- Outfitters by Richard Hayne, the company’s infant apparel and Mizrahi, who just re- pand the brand into areas such as home or even founder and president. accessories for the vealed that he and soft goods, the owners and Senk said it was too “I have been with the company for 18 years,” Isaac Mizrahi New his boyfriend of six early to discuss specific strategies. Senk does Senk said. “We have grown roughly 23 percent York brand. years, Arnold Germer, join the company at a time of continued growth. a year for 18 years, which I think puts us at the Children’s wear were married at City There are currently 26 wholly owned David top of the heap. Last year was not a good year is something he has Hall on Nov. 30, said Yurman retail stores in the U.S., and the line is for us in relative terms, but I believe that year- known inside and they will officially be distributed to about 450 stores worldwide. to-date, we still have the second-best perfor- out since he was a moving in together The Yurmans have more than three decades mance in the industry. youngster. During the ERICKSEN this spring once reno-

under their belt, building a business that has “I am someone who always seeks excel- Fifties, Sixties and KYLE vations on a three- retail sales north of $500 million with fine jew- lence,” he elaborated. “Certainly I wish we Seventies, his father, BY unit consolidation elry and watches. More recently, it has success- were having a year that was amongst our best, Isadore, ran Rydal Isaac Mizrahi are complete in his fully expanded into men’s and bridal jewelry, but the company is in amazing shape. I think Manufacturing, a PHOTO downtown apartment. fragrance and eyewear, and pushed into the the talent in the organization is probably better boys’ apparel line. Mizrahi said Until the hammers are laid to European and Asian markets. than it’s ever been, and if that were not the case, Ellie Fishman, the former grand rest, he will keep a temporary At Yurman, Senk is succeeding Paul Blum, quite frankly, I wouldn’t be leaving. I probably dame of children’s wear, whose apartment in his building and who held the role of ceo for five years but left couldn’t have left a year ago.” Youngland showroom was next Germer will hold onto his own the company within the past 18 months to join Asked how Senk, who comes with extensive ex- door to his father’s, was the first two blocks away. (They continue Kenneth Cole Productions. The ceo role had perience but little in the areas of fine jewelry and person who ever looked at his to live together when they week- been vacant since. watches, qualified for the ceo role, Sybil Yurman sketches and she became a great end in Bridgehampton.) “Once “He [Blum] did what he set out to do, what we noted that she doesn’t consider her operation a tra- mentor of his. we have moved in perhaps then asked him to do, and we really appreciate what he ditional jewelry house. “It’s a design company,” she During a phone interview we will talk about inhabiting all did,” Sybil Yurman explained. “He really guided said. “I am always very clear about that, and that’s Wednesday from Los Angeles those rooms. Before we do any- us through one of the worst recessions, and we one of the reasons we have been so successful. where he was making the talk- thing rash, we have to be in the were extremely successful through that recession.” Jewelry experience was not the criteria for Glen show rounds for “Project Runway space. It’s not as though the con- David Yurman added, “Internally, he built a very joining us and coming into a design company.” All Stars,” he said, “Ellie and my versation hasn’t come up. I’m re- cohesive functioning team, because for another Senk stressed the impetus was the Yurman father taught me that you can ally 50-50 on that one.” year and a half we experienced profits and growth.” company and the Yurmans themselves. “I fell in have all the best ideas but with- The designer is definite The Yurmans have known Senk and been love with this company and, quite frankly, with out the right execution they are about another pursuit. He is de- friends with him for about 10 years, first being David and Sybil and so many other people in the not going to work. That’s why I signing the costumes and set for company,” Senk said. “I am someone who always am so excited about this partner- Mark Morris’ world premiere likes to learn new things. I love the value that ship. We are all on the same page. at the San Francisco Ballet David and Sybil put on the aesthetic.” We didn’t have to sit in a room for Feb. 14, as well as the costumes He dispelled earlier speculation that his hus- hours. We knew exactly the niche for the choreographer’s “Four band, Keith Johnson, who is currently a buyer we were going after.” Saints in Three Acts” that de- for home products at Anthropologie, will join The new collection includes buts at the Brooklyn Academy of him at his new opportunity. a black and white group that is Music on March 1. “The set for David Yurman said that the Senk hire fits meant to be a funny take on so- the first ballet is essentially a into the overall vision to build what he calls a phisticated adult clothing. The backdrop but it is mostly about

IANNACCONE “world-class organization. I do understand there 25-piece infants’ collection will color. I have synthesis — I hear music and I see color. I think David Yurman, is a huge potential and we need someone to fa- debut in department stores and

THOMAS that’s why Mark likes working Sybil Yurman and cilitate it,” he said. “It’s putting that extra layer specialty stores, with girls’ and BY with me,” Mizrahi said. Glen Senk. on of understanding the quality and how things boys’ clothing expected to be work, and Glen is an expert in that.” added down the road. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG PHOTO

KEEPING IT REAL: Despite her fondness for Lagerfeld and Jean-Baptiste MEMO PAD top models while at the helm of French Mondino, who shot young Vogue, Carine Roitfeld put herself in the bullfighter José María “real people” corner as guest editor of Manzanares. Other soon- MOBILE POWER: Retailers drove much the spring fashion issue of VMan, due on to-be-boldface names of the online paid search spending in newsstands Feb. 14. “Valentine’s Day,” in the issue — part of a the fourth quarter. According to a study Roitfeld purred over the line from her young Hollywood feature released by IgnitionOne, a leading Paris apartment. — include “The Hunger digital marketing firm managing more Indeed, she assembled the cast as Games” star Alexander than $1 billion in online advertising, if imagining a dinner at her place Ludwig and Chord Overstreet paid search spending — a few celebs, chefs, mechanics, of “Glee.” increased 22 percent in architects, a fireman — none Roitfeld made an An image from Kenneth the fourth quarter versus of them hard to look at, or exception to her real- Cole’s spring campaign. a year ago, resulting in the looking uncomfortable in people rule for her best quarter to date. Holiday their designer duds. “I bonus pinup calendar, shopping initiatives pushed like men trendy, but not featuring Victoria’s search budgets ahead by 26 percent fashion victims. It’s more Secret babes and other supermodels, World Depends on How You Look.” year-over-year. In addition, mobile effortless,” Roitfeld said. shot by Willy Vandeperre. According to the company, the idea search advertising among retailers “When you work with The cover price for the 168-page behind this is that looking good results gained 269 percent for the quarter, real people, you can’t issue is $5.95, and it has a total in feeling good, and that in turn could versus a year ago and accounted impose something.” circulation of 85,000. At press time, inspire people to have a more positive for 14 percent of total retail search Indeed, she’s convinced advertising pages were up 21 percent. influence on the world. budgets, peaking at 24 percent on casting is crucial to Roitfeld characterized her dalliance “This season’s campaign speaks to the Black Friday. depict male fashion as as a men’s editor in chief as a “one empowering feelings people experience “Adoption of smartphones “it’s men who give shot,” but look out for her at a few when they consider their lives as well as and tablets is exploding and personality to the shows during Men’s Fashion Week in their wardrobe alternatives,” Cole said. mobile search is becoming clothes they wore.” Milan, where Giorgio Armani is set to host “When you consider that few seem to a major part of the shopping Adriana Lima from Roitfeld scored a cocktail gathering Monday at which care about apathy, many are questioning experience for many consumers,” the calendar, lensed hot French actor Roitfeld is to sign copies of her book, the answers, and movements are being said Roger Barnette, president of by Willy Vandeperre. Tahar Rahim for the “Irreverent.” — MILES SOCHA started.…One step at a time, one comes IgnitionOne. “Advertisers are cover, shot by British to the conclusion that how people see responding to this trend, which is photographer Nick Knight, with whom INNER VIEW: Kenneth Cole likes to touch on the world depends on how they look.” clearly shown in the enormous growth of Roitfeld collaborated for the first time, issues of the moment in his advertising, The ads will break in March mobile search advertising spending.” raving that the images are “very new for and for the spring campaign, he is magazines such as Vogue, InStyle, T: The The study also found that, by the a men’s magazine.” Another buzzy credit suggesting that the best way to look New York Times Style Magazine and GQ, end of the fourth quarter, Google line goes to Michael Avedon, grandson at the world is from within. The ads, as well as kennethcole.com. Hamza also remained the U.S. market share leader, of the late Richard Avedon, who did shot by Sharif Hamza at the abandoned shot three short films that address the commanding 81.8 percent compared to portraits of up-and-coming artists using, Floyd Bennett airfield in Brooklyn with concept, which will be shown on the site, Yahoo/Bing at 18.2 percent. like Bruce Weber, film instead of digital. models Angela Lindvall and Casey Taylor, as well as in Kenneth Cole stores. — LISA LOCKWOOD Other snappers in the issue include Karl feature the tag line “How You See the — MARC KARIMZADEH MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: Hart Schaffner Marx turns 125 this year and Championship Style marks the milestone Alabama Crimson Tide head coach Nick Saban proves to be with a tightly edited a winner when it comes to fashion as well. Page MW2 capsule collection. Page MW14

January 12, 2012

Two looks from REPORT FROM FLORENCE Z Zegna’s fall collection. Men’s Wear Goes Soft at Pitti Uomo Cozy sportswear and soft tailored pieces ruled the show.

byKATYA FOREMAN and SOFIA CELESTE

FLORENCE — Men’s wear’s modern ro- mance with the luxe casual trend is still going strong for fall-winter, with elegant and detailed sportswear/tailoring fusions the prevailing theme at the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade fair here. Beautifully constructed evolutions on soft tailoring in natural and warm winter shades such as burgundy, burnt orange and olive green figure among the season’s head- lines from the show, which ends its four-day run on Friday. “I’m loving what they’re calling jersey tailoring, or knit tailoring, a continuation All That Jazz of the soft de- constructed jacket. It’s got Designer Paul Surridge is inspired by the silhouettes of the Roaring Twenties the right fit for his first collection for Z Zegna which wil be shown in Milan on Monday. that is flatter- ing and looks For more Milan inspirations, see pages MW6 to MW8. sophisticated Gitman and tailored but feels as comfortable as a sweater,” said Eric Jennings, vice president and men’s fashion director for Saks Fifth Avenue. “Even when there’s a constructed shoulder, you’ll see a roped effect on the shoulder, but there’s re- ally nothing except for a soft canvas piece, so it’s very soft even though it has the ap- pearance of a tailored piece.” Jennings said he’ll be stocking up on dress trousers this fall, which were one of the store’s strongest sellers this past fall season. Jason Broderick, men’s wear general merchandise man- ager at Harrods, observed a strong presence of premi- um denim brands at the event — a bit of a sur- prise considering its sartorial roots. He pointed to the collabo- ration be- tween Edwin and Grenson

PHOTO BY GIOVANNA PAVESI GIOVANNA PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW4} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 Men’s Week Jet Set to Soar Back Into Men’s Market

have that category, but with a fashion Massimo Here and right: Looks from Jet Set. edge,” said Suppancig, showing a Suppancig comprehensive men’s and women’s collection, designed by a team, that includes cozy cashmere sweaters em- bellished with fur stitches; oversize jackets made with fabrics employed for parachutes, at times adorned with slim ropes; checkered flan- nel shirts that are quilted and can work as jackets, and down jackets in a color palette that is hard to miss on the slopes, ranging from orange and aqua green to purple and red — sometimes tie-dyed. Geographic embroideries, a star logo, the “over” fit and the byLUISA ZARGANI ropes are some of the archival elements that define the brand, MILAN — The rejuvenated Swiss brand said Suppancig. Jet Set will bow with a presentation here Materials are sometimes on Sunday during men’s fashion week. treated, such as a technical Spearheaded by chief executive officer cotton with resin, and there is Massimo Suppancig, who has worked some nylon, but the collection at firms such as Hugo Boss, Escada and also revolves heavily around nat- Valextra, Jet Set blends luxury fash- ural fabrics. “There aren’t enough ion with athletic functionality. “It was brands in this category that offer founded as a lifestyle brand and it takes naturals,” said Suppancig. a fashionable approach to leisure time,” The executive is not deterred by said Suppancig during a preview at the the challenging economy. “Leisure sprawling 5,400-square-foot showroom lo- is the category of the future,” he cated in a Giò Ponti-designed building in said. “Jet Set offers modernity in the center of Milan. leisure and it works at home, to Jet Set was founded in 1969 and is dress down, at a spa. It’s a joyful owned by Swiss investment company brand, comfortable and practical, Gaydoul Group, headed by Philippe yet luxurious.” Indeed, most pieces Gaydoul. The group also controls hosiery can be worn for daily use in the city. and knitwear firm Fogal and watch brand Jackets retail between 600 and Hanhart, among others. 1,100 euros, or $767 and $1,405 at Suppancig was tapped in August to revamp the brand, which broke current exchange. ground in the luxury sportswear segment and was favored by the likes of Jet Set sales currently total about 30 million euros, or $38.3 million. Gianni Agnelli and Grace Kelly. Jet Set’s popularity peaked in the Eighties, While there are existing stores in Aspen, Colo.; Davos, Cran and had been dormant under recent owners. “It was like Sleeping Beauty,” Montana, Zermatt, Arosa and Saint Moritz, Switzerland; in the lux- quipped Suppancig. Hailing from Saint Moritz, Jet Set is developed in urious German island of Sylt, near Denmark, and in Kitzbühel, Bologna, a pivotal hub for the production of sportswear in Italy, and manu- Austria, Suppancig is not focused on investing in brand bou- factured at production laboratories near Bologna and in the Veneto region. tiques. “This weekend, we’ll start selling to specialty stores. The financial base remains in Zurich. It helps creativity if there is a [dialogue] with specialty “Over the last 20 years, it was basically a line devoted to skiing. We still stores,” he explained. SUPPANCIG PHOTO BY YOSHIE NISHIKUWA: MEN’S LOOK BY GIOVANNA PAVESI GIOVANNA BY MEN’S LOOK NISHIKUWA: YOSHIE PHOTO BY SUPPANCIG Designers & Agents PPR Finalizes Brioni Purchase PARIS — French retail-to-luxury group PPR François-Henri Pinault stated at the time that a said Wednesday it had completed its acquisition push into accessories and expansion in the bur- To Launch New Show of 100 percent of Italian tailor Brioni, which is geoning Asian market were key avenues for growth byDAVID LIPKE brands at a high taste level,” said due to present its fall men’s collection at Milan at Brioni, which posted 2010 sales of 170 million Ed Mandelbaum, who co-founded Fashion Week on Jan. 16. euros, or $225.7 million at average exchange rates. THE DESIGNERS & Agents trade Designers & Agents with partner The purchase was finalized in accordance Based in Penne, Italy, Brioni is famous for show will launch a new men’s edition Barbara Kramer in 1998. “Men’s wear with the terms initially revealed Nov. 8, having dressing fictional character James Bond in the called D&A Man in New York this July. has been developing in incredibly in- received clearance from antitrust authorities, film franchise. Its handmade men’s suits have The first show is expected to draw teresting ways in the past few years. PPR stated. The group did not disclose the value been worn by such famous men as John Wayne, about 40 vendors at the Cedar Lake This really felt like the right, pivotal of the transaction. Clark Gable and — more recently — Barack venue in West Chelsea. moment for D&A to bring its signature PPR chairman and chief executive officer Obama and Matt Damon. — JOELLE DIDERICH The new show will join a crowded curatorial approach to the market.” competitive set in New York that in- Through a partnership with the cludes ENK NYC, Project, MRket, Council of Fashion Designers of Capsule and Agenda. America, D&A Man will offer two Man of D&A currently operates 10 wom- men’s wear designers complementary en’s shows a year. Its annual sched- booths each season. The designers THE WEEK ule includes four shows in New York, will be chosen in consultation with NICK SABAN:B four in Los Angeles and two in Paris. the CFDA. For D&A Man, the company plans two D&A is waiting to see how the The distinguished salt-and-pepper shows each year, during the men’s show dates shake out for July among sexiness of his hair, together with the markets in January and July. all the men’s shows and will stage its rugged forehead lines, make him the “The show will include sports- show concurrently with them, said George Clooney of college football. wear, denim and accessories, with Mandelbaum. The Alabama coach who The form-fitting polo showcases the led his Crimson Tide perfect balance between minimal logo to victory in the Bowl branding and athletic appeal. Singer to Take Fashion Post at Neiman’s Championship Series title NEIMAN MARCUS INC. has poached clothing, contemporary collections, game Monday night may not its next men’s fashion director from furnishings, accessories and shoes. be as flamboyant as his famous He could lose the British-teacup pose. Bloomingdale’s. He will direct the company’s men’s predecessor Bear Bryant, but Matthew Singer, who was associate merchants on trends and what to buy he’s able to find a healthy Athletic black rubber band is men’s fashion director for the upscale each season and will provide creative balance between a youthful perfect for the occasion. division of Macy’s Inc., has joined the direction to the marketing and adver- attitude and athletic aesthetic Dallas-based retailer to oversee the tising team at both store groups and while making his own mark by Very well-fitting dress pants are the fashion direction of Neiman Marcus online. pairing it with an out-of-context right color but the wrong fabric. Go for a Stores, Neiman Marcus Direct and Singer was formerly men’s fash- Western belt. cotton khaki. Also, the single pleat is OK, Bergdorf Goodman. He succeeds Nick ion director for Bloomingdale’s and but a flat-front would be more on trend. Wooster, who left the company in May. has also worked at Scoop and A.B.S. He will be based in New York and will Bloomingdale’s said no successor has His white sneakers with red be responsible for covering men’s de- been named. accents perfectly match the polo. — JEAN E. PALMIERI signer collections, sportswear, tailored SCOTT KIRKLAND/RETNAPHOTO BY DIGITAL/CORBIS

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 Men’s Week TAILORING ELEMENTS TAKE CEN Modern interpretations of classic tailoring draw retailer attention at Florence show.

{Continued from page MW1} to elevate utilitarian and sportswear items. Yohji Yamamoto as among the highlights. Take Boss Selection, whose lineup included “It was very modern, with Japanese inspira- a puffer jacket in buttery chocolate leather tion, monochromatic with great detailing,” and a safari jacket which, when opened, re- he said. vealed a skeleton of traditional suiting de- Commenting on how packed and upbeat tails, such as a besom pocket with half moon the show was, Tancrède de Lalun, general stitching reinforcements. merchandise manager of men’s and wom- Belvest had Mao and safari jackets. en’s apparel at Printemps, said the mood “We’re fusing the two universes because was all about cocooning, coziness and com- people want more comfort, pieces that are fort, with an abundance of rich fabrics and easy to wear, that you can wear out to the chunky knits. movies, or whatever. That’s where With an array of modern these items come in,” said Roberta interpretations on classic Cocco, the brand’s president. tailoring, the season’s he- Engineered Garments dis- roes ranged from Aristotle played coats in soft washed Onassis to Jay Gatsby. The tweed with shawl collars and Baz Luhrmann-helmed fastened with tailoring tech- adaptation of F. Scott niques to prevent pre- Fitzgerald’s classic “The mature wear. Woolrich Great Gatsby,” which John Rich & Bros. pre- is due for release at sented its Byrd cloth the end of the year, parka in a range of Black Fleece Henry Cotton’s is sure to make dusty bright hues, in- a big impact on cluding royal blue. men’s wardrobes. With consumers ing petrol green at Zanone — a kind of black, and bags, are selling very well right now, “ Nick Wooster, demanding value blue and green color. Such amazing colors said Saks’ Jennings. men’s fashion and comfort, it’s are especially good for online retailers, with Several brands had rounded out their adviser at Park all about a soft, customers going for items that pop out.” collections with new categories. Tailored & Bond and Gilt light, luxurious Other trends included double-faced and resortwear specialist Orlebar Brown, for Groupe, singled hand this season. reversible outerwear, mixed-media outer- instance, introduced its first dress shirt and out luxe casual The rich array of wear, shawl-collared knits and turtlenecks. jacket, which was fitted but easy and light pioneer Brunello materials at play in- Business was bubbling for a num- and comes in five colorways. Cucinelli’s tailoring cluded overdyed cash- ber of accessories brands, such The brand also unveiled line as hitting the “per- mere, camel hair, fur trims, as the trendy British foot- an Olympics-themed fect sweet spot” between peached cotton, flannel and wear brand Grenson. bathing suit range with beautiful tailoring and Zegna’s Cashco cotton- Printemps’ de prints of a gymnast, luxury sportswear. In cashmere corduroy. “There Lalun said thick- swimmer and other terms of silhouettes, this were interesting fabrics, soled shoes will sports figures. season’s jackets contin- everyone’s trying to trick be big for fall, Jack Spade present- ue to be slim and either the eye,” said Harrods’ inspired by Prada. ed an expanded tailor- short or long, he said, Broderick, giving a “flan- Saks’ Jennings ing element, which was adding: “Thom Browne and nel look-alike” moleskin at mentioned the for- well received by retail- Tom Ford made their marks in Woolrich Rich & Bros. Cucinelli as an example. mal dress slipper in casual ers, according to Micah the sand.” Still, for Wooster, the “overwhelm- “What I’m liking right now is this whole fabrications and the hiking Grossman, director of ing item” of the show was outerwear, split- kind of Donegal [tweed effect]. Where ev- boot among key trends, as global sales. “The idea is ting into two camps — either in great Harris erything was kind of marled and marbled well as a prevalence of kilties to offer a full wardrobe,” tweeds or technical materials. “It’s the per- last season, there’s a lot more of these kind and tassles. he said, adding that, with fect story of old and new.…Men love things of colored Donegal flecks and speckles in Nigel Cabourn punctuated Nigel Cabourn a London store opening with a history and provenance, but there was knitwear,” said Saks’ Jennings, adding that his collection with a camera bag trimmed in the cards, a few Olympics-themed proj- also this amazing lightweight engineered out- he also liked the evolution of the printed wo- with leather straps and a fishing net pocket. ects could be in the pipeline. “Our ambition erwear,” he said, citing Nanamica’s technical vens trend, particularly soft, washed Liberty “There’s a huge opportunity with men’s is to become a true global brand through offerings in “beautiful shades of navy.” of London-esque micro prints. accessories as there’s almost this renais- partnerships in Asia and stores in key cities Harrods’ Broderick noted an influx of “Colorrrr,” he enthused when prodded sance going on in men’s wear right now in Europe,” he said. The brand owns seven quilting across collections. for other key trends. “The purples of a few where the young generation is really look- stand-alone stores. Tailoring continues to wield its influence seasons ago have evolved into these amazing ing for the nuances of dressing — the small U.S.-based Gitman Bros. unfurled a range over the sportswear category, with brands reds in shades of merlot and oxblood.” Gilt details, the lapel accents, the tie bars, the of neckties made with Portuguese flannel using luxury fabrics and sartorial details Groupe’s Wooster added: “I saw this amaz- interesting socks, the way the jacket’s fitting and duck and reindeer-motif printed silk.

Belvest Herno

Victorinox Hugo Boss Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 MW5 TER STAGE AT PITTI

Brunello Cucinelli

Valentino RUNWAY PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY RUNWAY PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY

“It’s our first time making silk ties,” according to a spokesman for Barbour. The collection Valentino: “We wanted to balance the frescoes and traditional art said Ryan Metauro, sales manager. includes a Seafarer jacket inspired by an old canvas of Florence with something modern,” said Valentino creative directors “We are filling a void that the custom- sail, with cross-stitching on the outside, he said. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of the setting for the house’s er is looking for.” Nigel Cabourn said that he hopes to open a mono- hotly anticipated men’s wear catwalk debut here on Wednesday night, as Jeff Rudes, chief executive of- brand store in New York and another in London by the guests of honor at Pitti Uomo. The show was staged in the transporting ficer of J Brand, which launched end of the year. The influential British designer gave Baroque rooms of the city’s 16th-century Palazzo Corsini. men’s wear in 2008, said that by visitors to his stand a preview of his latest limited edi- Providing a jolt back into the modern world, giant floor-to-ceiling 2013 the label will have a full tion tome, “Scott’s Last Expedition, 1912-2012,” which screens were installed in the site for the occasion, flashing crackly ready-to-wear men’s line com- will launch on Jan. 18 at the Bread & Butter trade fair black-and-white footage of the models moving through the sections. plete with jeans, shirts, slacks in Berlin, marking the 100th anniversary of British ex- It made a fitting set for the collection, which, offering a new take and jackets. The brand’s col- plorer Robert F. Scott reaching the South Pole. “We’re on the Valentino man, focused on sharply tailored modernist takes lection of jeans and cotton going to build a replica of Scott’s hut,” said Cabourn, on men’s wear classics, straddling the sartorial tradition and new stretch pants were crafted who has designed 12 authentic garments, each named technology. Piccioli in an interview prior to the show said: “We wanted with detailed stitching and after an explorer involved in Scott’s expedition. to [honor] the culture of couture, it’s very close to our world, to the dressy men’s wear patterns British cycling attire worn at the Thirties-inspired world of Valentino, but also to the sartorial world.” Outerwear carried such as houndstooth, and Tweed Run charity ride in London in 2009 influenced exaggerated rounded proportions echoing Fifties couture shapes. rich shades like red desert, the waxed cotton-nylon trenches and needle-cord However, while evoking the weighty classic gentleman’s overcoats of evergreen, autumn sun and trousers at Henry Cotton’s. yore, these fellows were ultralight and minimalist, with thermo-stitching union blue. In 2011, men’s Victorinox, makers of the original Swiss replacing seams, or internal networks of heat-bonded tape in a shade wear made up less than 10 per- Army knife, teamed up with Christopher of Valentino red. Slim cropped pants worn with shoes but no socks cent of total sales for the company. Raeburn for another capsule collection, finished off the ensembles, giving a Mod spin, while sporty options J Brand generated around $150 which included seven multifunctional included a rusty-hued safari jacket in nylon, bonded with cashmere. million in total sales in 2011 ver- pieces inspired by a Seventies Swiss The full wardrobe ran from knits to a navy tuxedo in wool drill, as well sus about $110 million in 2010. With army field jacket and made with sus- as accessories, such as cool studded leather iPad clutches. While the a strong presence in the U.S., and tainable and recycled materials. smooth bonded-leather trench looked a tad secret agent, covetable distribution in a number of top Like the Swiss Army knife outerwear options included an unlined duffle coat in crisp wool mixed retailers such as Bergdorf Victorinox is famous for, Raeburn’s with radzimir, a double cashmere coat, and a short navy peacoat with Goodman, Barneys designs include nifty foldable, chunky knitted panels at the front. Taking his runway bow dressed in New York, Saks compact pieces like a packable pieces from the collection, it was clear the house has already found a Fifth Avenue and vest, which can be packed customer in Piccioli, and there are surely more behind him. Bloomingdale’s, the up in eight steps, and a brand is eyeing ex- raincoat that features a pansion abroad. “We stowaway hood, a flash- Hardy Amies: Florence, the world’s renaissance Olebar Brown have a full steam en- light and a key latch. capital, proved a fitting stage for the fabled Savile gine ready to take on Europe like Raeburn, who was re- Row tailor Hardy Amies’ fall collection that had a we did in the U.S.,” Rudes said. cently named the winner decidedly indulgent continental feel, with models Shifting away from shiny ny- of the British Fashion toting luggage from the brand’s collaboration lons into traditional men’s wear Awards for Emerging with Globe-Trotter. Nodding to the style of fabrics and sporting leaner Talent, Men’s Wear, has leading men of the silver screen that the late proportions, reinterpretations helped Victorinox ap- founder used to dress, such as Cary Grant, of the puffer jacket were ev- parel garner exposure. the classic gray flannel suit was the main erywhere. Isaia presented a In 2011, apparel protagonist here, worked in double- and vicunha version, retailing at a made up about 6 per- single-breasted versions with peak lapels and cool $15,000. cent of Victorinox’s strong shoulders. The bold construction was a Cucinelli, meanwhile, total sales. “I want to departure from most collections at Pitti, which showcased a down-filled double this over the homed in on the continuing dressy-casual, cardigan. “The nylon down next five years,” said soft-tailoring trend. jacket has become boring Joachim Beer, presi- Designer Claire Malcolm’s loose pleated somehow, there’s a lot of it dent of Victorinox pants and knitwear ensembles had a retro in the market so I wanted to Global Fashion & Parisian feel, accessorized with knitwear, including show something else to the Retail. Beer added wound and bound oversize scarves fixed with consumer,” said Brunello that Victorinox has vintage-style brooches. “For me Hardy Amies is Cucinelli, slipping on one signed a contract all about the modern British gentleman…but a of the cardigans over a with Raeburn for all modern glamour that is a global international look slim suit jacket. of 2012, to continue and especially for this show, I really thought that the In terms of newsy tidbits, consulting with the suit was modern-day armor, it makes you stand taller, Barbour has collaborated with brand’s internal de- you feel empowered,” Malcolm said backstage after Paul Smith on a range of outer- sign team, as well as the show. The fur-trimmed coats and eveningwear wear, knits and shirts that will be dis- to conceive fresh cap- segment, which included patterned jacquard and velvet tributed by the Paul Smith sales force, Isaia sule collections. jackets, looked a little costumey. MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 Men’s Week Fall 2012: Milan Inspirations MILAN — As preparations for the upcoming runway shows enter their final phase, top designers and brands took a moment to share their inspirations for the upcoming season. Everything from radical rebels to the modern traveler will be represented at the men’s shows here, which kick off Friday.

Looks from the fall line.

Z Zegna Blends Sartorial Touches With Techno Influences

MILAN — Paul Surridge is about Surridge presents a lineup “full of to take center stage. integrity,” grounded on the compa- After working in the shadow ny’s established tailoring tradition, of designers such as Christopher which is revisited through new ETRO, Kean Etro Bailey at Burberry and Raf Simons proportions and materials. MONCLER GAMME BLEU, Thom Browne “I was born free, free as the eagle at Jil Sander, Surridge, a smiling, “I’m not someone who likes that flies over the great blue sky, a light enthusiastic British gentleman to cookie-cut a man,” he said. “I “...FORMULA ONE...” wind touches its face. I will be free.” born and raised in Hertfordshire, wanted the collection to really was tapped to succeed Alessandro offer a young man a full-time ward- Sartori at the design helm of robe from morning to the evening, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Z Zegna line, with everything that encompasses which will make its runway debut his lifestyle.” here on Jan. 16. Men’s staples, such as trenches, peacoats and suits, which show elongated silhouettes inspired by the “Jazz Suites” worn by the sophis- ticated gentlemen of the Twenties, are realized in both traditional fab- rics and in their high-tech version. Case in point is the slim tai- lored suit with deconstructed shoulders, which comes in classic mohair wool or in a techno mohair nylon blend. Paul Surridge also designed a wide Surridge range of outerwear pieces, such PHOTOS BY GIOVANNA PAVESI GIOVANNA PHOTOS BY as a techno gabardine raincoat “It’s very different to be the with a detachable collar in sateen CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION, number two, or the number one,” nylon and a herringbone style Italo Zucchelli Surridge said. “It’s extremely beau- in techno nylon blend featuring tiful, but really stressful. You are in graphic inserts in tridimensional the firelight as a creative director.” mesh and calf leather. “URBAN Aiming to “increase the Z Zegna The color palette of “dark and business and create a collection rich colors” includes navy blue, bur- that people want to wear, not that gundy, green and brown, with flash- LIFE.” just people talk about,” as the de- es of electric blue and cardinal red. signer affirmed, for the fall season — ALESSANDRA TURRA Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 MW7

DIESEL BLACK GOLD, creative team “The collection we are presenting in Milan repre- sents an evolution of our roots: It draws inspiration once again from military constructions and vintage biker pieces with added Seventies-style cuts. The rich fabrics, the refined leathers and exquisite finishings, not to mention special treatments, give a new role to these clothes. The ‘cleanest’ cuts lend the garments an alternative el- egance. This is our vision of the contemporary man.”

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS, Dirk Bikkembergs “THE NEW WINTER COLLECTION SHOWS THE EVOLUTION OF DIRK BIKKEMBERGS DESIGN: FROM PRODUCTS WITH STRONG REFERENCES TO THE WORLD OF SPORT TO A LIFESTYLE OFFER FOR A CONTEMPORARY MAN WHO LIKES STYLE AND MOSCHINO, FORMAL ELEGANCE BUT Rossella Jardini WHO DOESN’T RENOUNCE “Warmhearted! COMFORT. THE JERSEY SUIT Chesterfield coat ICEBERG, Iceberg in Prince of Wales creative team IS THE SYMBOL OF THIS check, padded in EVOLUTION.” “CHARLIE CHAPLIN IN goose down.” MODERN TIMES.”

UMIT BENAN, Umit Benan “THE WAR HAS ENDED. THE BOYS ARE GOING BACK HOME.”

VERSACE, Donatella Versace “THE VERSACE MAN IS AN ICON OF MASCULINITY, A LEADER OF THE PACK.”

PORTS 1961, Ian Hylton “Contemporary sensual- ity and sense of style...a theorem proved in the for- mal language of an elegant overturned obelisk to focus the upper body of the com- mitted businessman, slen- derized silhouettes with broader peaked, strong shoulders and svelted waist. It’s the expression of the moral rigor and devo- tion to his work.”

DSQUARED2, Dean and Dan Caten “A RADICAL-CHIC DSQUARED2 BOY REBEL UNIVERSITY STUDENT FROM A GOOD FAMILY BUT WITH A VERY BAD REP AND ATTITUDE.” MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 Men’s Week

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MAN, Andreas Kronthaler “THE NEXT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MAN AUTUMN-WINTER 2012- 13 COLLECTION IS IN SUPPORT OF DAVID ATTENBOROUGH’S DOCUMENTARY SERIES “THE FROZEN PLANET,” WHICH WILL COME TO AMERICA BUT UNFORTUNATELY ROBERTO WITHOUT THE FINAL CAVALLI, EPISODE WHERE Roberto Cavalli HE EXPLAINS THAT “The deter- WE HUMANS ARE mined, self- RESPONSIBLE FOR THE confident Roberto ICE MELT. SO WE TOOK Cavalli man heads toward the THE POLAR EXPLORERS future: His re- AS OUR HEROS, laxed demeanor is AND WE LOVE POLAR an expression of BEARS.” his elegance.”

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, Anna Zegna, image director “The Ermenegildo Zegna man arrives quietly: His BlackBerry is always connected to global financial uncertainty, but he is de- termined to take a break. He travels in style, with suitcases luxuriously packed for impromptu occasions that certainly don’t include a stay at an isolated ski cabin. His social life remains a pri- ority, both on the slopes and in the most exclusive lodges. The adaptation of his wardrobe to the environment hap- pens by degrees, creating incred- ible combina- tions between formal and NICOLE FARHI, sporty pieces, Massimo Nicosia with each gar- “2012 Grand Tour. West ment fashioned meets East. The collection MISSONI, from the fin- LES HOMMES, Tom Notte provides a wardrobe for a est materials and Bart Vandebosch modern traveler who loves Angela Missoni and precisely “THE COLLECTION IS INSPIRED to collect pieces all over infused with BY SOUTH AMERICAN TRIBAL the globe. It is a contem- “SHARP sartorial CLOTHES. FASCINATED BY porary Grand Tour for a details.” THE USE OF KNITWEAR AND backpacker with a dandy ARTISANAL TRADITIONAL PERUVIAN COLOR attitude who travels from SCHEMES, WE REINTERPRETED Heathrow in minus-3 de- THIS TRIBAL THEME THROUGH gree weather and arrives ELEGANCE.” THE WORK OF MODERNIST in Hong Kong ready for 33 ARTIST PETER HALLEY.” degree weather.”

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND, Alistair Carr “THE AUTUMN-WINTER COLLECTION IS NOT RESTRICTED BY A SPECIFIC THEME OR VISION BUT INSTEAD INSPIRED BY A REAL MAN’S WARDROBE AND THE PIECES HE WANTS TO WEAR. THE RANGE INVOKES A CONFIDENT MASCULINITY: SOFT, LUXURIOUS FABRICS ARE REALIZED IN STRUCTURED SHAPES AND MIXED WITH TOUGHER ELEMENTS TO ACHIEVE A LOOK THAT IS POLISHED BUT WORN WITH EASE.”

MW10 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 Men’s Week American Tailored Clothing Gets Sporty by DAVID LIPKE — taking it out of the sphere of office drones and into nightclubs and weekend parties. A new ad from Original Penguin. THE NEW SPRING Original Penguin ad- Bastian is adding more tailored clothing vertising campaign spotlights a heavily tat- to his assortments for fall. In his upcoming tooed model on Coney Island during sunset, show in February, look for the designer to wearing tailored blazers and vests in various evolve the slim fit of his suits and jackets images. The ads help accentuate the casual and add a bit of Seventies loucheness to brand’s recent push into suit separates, blaz- the look. “We’re increasing the size of the ers and tailored waistcoats. lapel and playing with the notch. It’s a bit “Two years ago, we didn’t have a tailored of Halston,” he explained, noting that one- clothing program,” said Ann Payne, senior button peak lapels will be a key style for fall. vice president of design and merchandising Texture and tweedy English fabrics have at the Perry Ellis International-owned brand. become more important, as designers and “Today, men are wearing suits and sport jack- trendy consumers look for styles beyond the run-of-the-mill business suit. Bastian noted The “Made he avoids Super 120s fabrics at all costs, for in the New example. “That’s the deadly Dad-going-to- America” work fabric that’s really difficult to turn into campaign from something beautiful and sexy,” he explained. Joseph Abboud. Also on Bastian’s nix list? Those shim- mery, tone-on-tone Bemberg linings. “They look kind of sleazy,” he noted, adding he lines all his jackets with shirt fabrics. While texture is a key trend, American

men tend to prefer lighter fabrics and shy WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY BASTIAN PHOTO BY away from heavyweight wools, which can be an issue when creating sporty, rustic looks. give the jacket that same look,” said Sapienza. Lebanese actor; Andrew, an English-born cre- However, textiles mills are producing the The ceo was in Florence for Pitti Uomo ative director, and Shawn, a denim designer. look of Scottish tweeds and textured wools this week, and he noted that many European At Original Penguin, look for suits with in lightweight fabrics — which allow design- companies there offered up their own takes lots of surface interest in the fall, including ers to create suits with lots of surface inter- on classic American preppy style, includ- Donegal wool, coated cotton, heavily washed est but in easy-to-wear weights. ing brands like San Francisco, Hartford, cotton sateen and cavalry twill. Shawl col- “It’s a drag putting on a heavy jacket. You Brooksfield and New England. “Western lars, peak lapels and patch-pocket design de- really want to stay in the 300-grams weight Europeans have adopted a traditional tails add additional variety to the offerings. for anything that you want to wear more American collegiate preppy kind of look,” he Tailored clothing is currently only about than one or two months out of the year,” noted. “But I think we have a more sophisti- 5 to 7 percent of sales for the casual brand, noted Bastian, who is big on casual fabrics cated understanding of it. Our design fuses but the category is growing quickly — particu- like corduroy, moleskin and seersuck- traditional elements of American design larly in the company’s own retail stores, said er. “These fabrics aren’t so precious. with European influences. We are synthe- Payne. “We can merchandise it with our dress The more you wear them, the better sized in the middle.” shirts and ties. Our stores are becoming more ets as an extension of their sportswear, so we they fit your body. The elbows break For spring, Joseph Abboud is continu- of a destination for that,” she noted. can have a little more fun with it.” in and the shoulders settle down. ing its “Made in the New America” cam- The stores have become popular with Original Penguin is one of many It’s a real sportswear approach paign, which is meant to both evoke the grooms looking for a youthful, nontradition- American brands looking to capitalize on to tailored.” brand’s roots — JA Apparel owns a suit al wedding outfit, such as a blue and black a resurgent tailored clothing market in the At Joseph Abboud, rich, manufacturing factory in New Bedford, houndstooth tuxedo offered this upcoming U.S., which was up more than 11 percent textured fabrics are also a Mass. — and its interpretation of mod- holiday season. in the first half of 2011, according to NPD primary trend for fall. “I ern American culture. A sleeker look is the focus at Calvin Group figures. In contrast to their European think as the economy starts “I think there’s a whole new in- Klein, where both one- and two-button blaz- brethren, American brands tend to take a to improve gradually, there’s terest in ‘Made in America’ because ers with strong, constructed shoulders are sportswear approach to tailored clothing, going to be more risk-taking there’s this perception that America the principal direction for fall. Lapels are said designers and executives on this side of in tailored clothing,” said is falling behind and that China streamlined, and a narrow welt pocket on the Atlantic — and consumers are respond- Anthony Sapienza, presi- has taken the lead in many areas. the chest was added. Unlike Michael Bastian ing to the creative approach to suiting. dent and chief executive of- There’s a bit of paranoia that has and Joseph Abboud, tweeds are not part of “Something huge is happening. There’s a ficer of the brand’s owner, JA seized the popular imagination,” the look at the PVH Corp.-owned brand. whole generation of guys who never had to Apparel Corp. said Sapienza. “We don’t want to “A key difference between American and wear a suit to work, and they are discovering To that end, the brand has wrap ourselves in the red, white European tailored clothing is the fabrics. In tailored clothing in a whole new way,” said embraced double-faced fabrics, and blue of the American flag, Europe, they are working more with boiled designer Michael Bastian. “It’s no longer a leather trim on pockets, elbow it’s more subtle than that. Our and felted materials, while we are focusing uniform or straitjacket you have to wear to patches and tabs on collars for its brand doesn’t just represent more on modern fabrics with sheen and lus- work. It’s more about a fashion choice now. fall lineup of suits and sport coats. the old, Waspy, traditional ter to create sexy, liquid-metal-inspired suits,” It’s gone from having to wear a suit to want- Beefy fabrics abound, and some clothing. We have a multieth- said Kevin Carrigan, global creative director ing to wear a suit.” jackets even have removable knit nic facet to the brand, and I of ck Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein white label Bastian and his peers, including design- collars or detachable fur collars. “It think that has great appeal to and Calvin Klein Jeans. “Calvin Klein brings ers like Thom Browne, Simon Spurr and makes the jacket warmer around the consumer today.” its clean, pared-down American aesthetic to Band of Outsiders, have reimagined the clas- the neck. Men have really adopted A spring look The campaign features real tailored clothing, offering heritage fabrics, sic gray flannel work suit in inventive ways scarves as a fashion item and these from Michael men, including R.J., a half- minimal stitching and sexy proportions.” Bastian.

In addition, the neckwear will now be better segmented to complement the dress shirt offerings, which are broken Van Heusen Expanding Neckwear Range down into three categories: Van Heusen, Van Heusen Slim byJEAN E. PALMIERI ry that complemented its existing dress and Van Heusen Studio. “We can hit one lifestyle but three shirt division. generations and demographics,” Sirkin said. Since that time, PVH has brought all The Van Heusen line is targeted to a more-mature man VAN HEUSEN THREW a welcome- of its neckwear licenses in-house; Van and the neckwear here offers shaded warps in vibrant col- home party for its neckwear business Heusen was the final one. ors. It measures 3 3/8 inches. The Slim and Studio lines are Wednesday night in New York City, a cel- “By taking Van Heusen neckwear geared more to a younger customer and will measure 2 3/4 ebration to commemorate the return of back in-house, we are uniquely suited to inches and 2 inches, respectively. Both neckwear lines will the Van Heusen neckwear license to the merchandise, design, and market both be based in black with “pops of color,” Sirkin said. All of the company’s fold. dress shirts and neckwear together,” ties retail for $40 and there will be four major deliveries a For the past 28 years, Van Heusen said David Sirkin, president of the PVH year with new product offered monthly, he said. ties have been licensed to Randa Corp. Neckwear Group. Under Randa, there was no neckwear for the Slim seg- but that license expired at the end of The Van Heusen In fact, Van Heusen neckwear is the ment and a limited amount of product for the Studio line. 2011, allowing the heritage brand to join collection is now being third largest volume producer in the com- Sirkin acknowledged that the neckwear market has been the others in the PVH Corp. stable. That produced in-house. pany after Calvin Klein and Arrow, he shrinking over the past 15 years, but said PVH is gaining group includes brands as varied as Calvin said. “We’re very happy to have it back,” market share. “We’re stimulating the market by giving new- Klein, Izod, Tommy Hilfiger, Ted Baker, he said. “It’s our heritage namesake ness,” he said, noting that more seasonal patterns and fabri- Claiborne, Nautica, DKNY, Jones New brand and we’ve been waiting five years.” cations, as well as updated shapes are helping the company York, Robert Graham and J. Garcia. For spring, PVH has expanded distri- gain traction. PVH is the largest dress shirt and bution and will now sell Kohl’s in addi- “We had a good year in 2011,” he said, “and that gives me neckwear company in the world and five tion to its long-standing retail partners, optimism for this year.” In the third-quarter conference call years ago it purchased Superba Inc., a neckwear manufac- J.C. Penney, Belk and Bon-Ton, Sirkin said. The company’s on Dec. 1, the “heritage” dress furnishings business posted a turer with a 40 percent market share, for $180 million. The road sales force is also expected to increase business with 4 percent increase in sales, the company reported. However, deal was designed to grow PVH’s business in a new catego- specialty store accounts, he added. it does not break out neckwear from dress shirts.

MW12 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 Men’s Week New and Noteworthy at ENK NYC ENK NYC will be staged from Jan. 22 to 24 with 225 vendors. Here, a quartet of brands launching new lines and styles for fall.

BILLY JEALOUSY of the business, according to Jason Bates, It’s not every day that a skin care line owner of the Derelicte showrooms in New branches into apparel, but that’s just what is York and Los Angeles, which represent the happening at Billy Jealousy for fall. line in the U.S. The upscale men’s grooming and skin “Building a nondenim bottoms business care collection inked a licensing deal with is really great right now, as so much of the Crown & Eagle to produce and distribute a market has been tops driven,” added Bates. collection of men’s casual sportswear under “The collection is very wearable with a very the Billy Jealousy name, and the line will nice aesthetic.” make its debut at the ENK NYC show. In November, the brand won the The initial collection will be focused pri- Menswear Brand of the Year prize at the an- marily on tops, both knits and wovens, and nual Drapers Awards in London. In the U.S., will also include sweaters. There will be Farah is currently carried in Bloomingdale’s, very few bottoms. select Urban Outfitters doors and about Jonathan Whaley, design director, said 65 independent specialty stores, including the line will blend “Italian elegance, English American Rag, LASC and Oak. Billy Jealousy bespoke, Asian bounce and American cool. — DAVID LIPKE Put it all in a blender and you come up with what we’re calling it — American sartorial.” Woven shirts in 80s and 100s yarns will But this is a good way into the brand for him.” QUODDY He said that men today dress differently retail for around $125, pima polos, light- The fall collection will be a celebration of Known for its hand-sewn moccasins and every day of the week and the plan for Billy weight hoodies and rugby shirts will be the visual arts. It was inspired by two iconic boat shoes, Maine-based Quoddy has had Jealousy is to “try to take all the elements of around $100, and T-shirts are $60. Cotton Frenchmen: actor Jean-Paul Belmondo and its share of ups and downs since its found- what a man wears Monday through Sunday sweaters will sell for $75 to $85, while cash- Nicolas de Staël, a celebrated painter who ing in 1909 by Harry Smith Shorey. The firm and make it in the best yarns and fabrics.” meres will be up to $200. worked from a studio on the beach in Antibes. changed hands through a trio of companies Whaley said target distribution will be to Key pieces include coats, vests and long- from the Seventies through the Nineties, in- the major department and specialty stores sleeve polos in french terry and jersey slubs cluding R.G. Barry, Wolverine World Wide Façonnable that sell the Billy Jealousy skin care line in “Yves Klein blue,” while sun-bleached and Dunham Bros. Co. Tailored including Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and oranges and yellow give life to terry-cloth In 1998, Kevin Shorey, a fourth-gener- Denim upscale specialty stores. hoodies and roll-neck pullovers. Selvage ation descendant of the founder, acquired He said there are no immediate plans denim will also be a key component. Retail the company and bought the brand back into to market the apparel and skin care ele- prices for shirts will be $125 to $200, jeans family hands. ments of the brand together. “The areas and chinos will be $125 to $200 and sport Since then, the company has ridden the are so separate from each other and it’s coats will be $250 to $300. heritage Americana trend to newfound pop- a logistical problem more than anything “It’s washed down and relaxed but with a ularity in influential specialty retailers like else right now, but we’re thinking about it.” touch of elegance,” Pfalzgraf said. — J.E.P. Oak Hall, Kilgore Trout, Leffot, Mrporter. — JEAN E. PALMIERI com and Lane Crawford. In total, Quoddy FACONNABLE FARAH sells to about 50 wholesale accounts world- TAILORED DENIM Originally founded in El Paso in 1920, Farah wide — and its growth rate is highly re- One year ago, Façonnable set its sights on is now based in London and is owned by strained by its production capacity, which is attracting a younger customer by launch- Perry Ellis International, which operates currently about 20,000 pairs of shoes a year. ing a denim-based men’s sportswear line. it under its Perry Ellis Europe umbrella. All Quoddy shoes are made by hand in its The initial reaction was strong, prompting The brand is known for its bottoms, which, workshops in Lewiston, Maine. “All our shoes the expansion of the collection at both the true to its roots, are inspired by vintage are moccasin construction, which means wholesale and retail level. American styles — updated leather fully surrounds your foot and fits In addition to distribution at upscale with an English spin. like a glove,” explained John Andreliunas, retailers such as Sak’s Fifth Avenue, Key styles for fall include president of the company. “It takes a Bloomingdale’s and Galeries Lafayette as the Chester chino and the year of training just to become an ap- well as specialty stores, the brand operates Mills stretch, with the lat- prentice hand sewer, its own store in Nice, France, and will open ter in a skinny fit and fash- so that keeps a pretty a second unit in Dubai in July, according to ioned from stretch hop- good governor on our Bruno Pfalzgraf, international commercial sack fabric. Both come in a growth level.” director for Façonnable and denim, and range of colors. For fall, Quoddy is head of the denim division. The brand encompass- Quoddy introducing its new Pfalzgraf said the moniker of the line es a full collection, with Sitayik style, which is is designed to connect the collection to bottoms retailing for $98 to $130, lightweight a monk-strap boot and an updated take on Façonnable’s “tailored heritage. It’s not just knits for $88 to $98, heavy knits for $150 to its best-selling ring boot. It will retail for jeans. It’s slightly more casual and relaxed $180, polos for $70 to $90, wovens for $80 $325, while the core price range of the en- and is tailored inspired.” He said it is “based to $120, lightweight jackets for $120 to $140 tire collection is between $250 and $500. “It’s on the archives of the founder, but with a con- and heavy outerwear for $250 to $350. While a little more contemporary, with a modern temporary twist.” It is targeted to the “25- to bottoms represent about 10 percent of as- silhouette and low-profile Vibram sole,” said 35-year-old who doesn’t wear Façonnable yet. sortments, they comprise about 50 percent Andreliunas of the Sitayik. — D.L.

Elyse ENK NYC Evolves With the Times Kroll ENK NYC HAS THE OLDEST roots of all For the first time, the show has an offi- store. That’s the good part of the fashion the men’s trade shows in New York, and it cial timekeeper in Tsovet, which has posted business — it’s always changing.” continues to tweak its formula each year. a working watch face on the ENK Web site. Kroll expressed unhappiness with the This season, the upcoming show is ex- The company will also raffle off a Tsovet split in the men’s market this season, due to perimenting with a small new area inspired timepiece each day of the show to a retailer. Project and Capsule staging their shows a by the “S” section of ENK International’s The Blue Agency showroom is sponsoring week prior to ENK NYC, MRket and Agenda. WSA shoe show in Las Vegas. The area will a new VIP café with two of its brands, Benson Project is scheduled from Jan. 16 to 18 host a group of trendy footwear brands, in- and Parajumpers. Dubbed the Blue Agency and Capsule from Jan. 16 to 17. ENK NYC cluding G-Star, Ben Sherman, Levi’s, True Bistro, the canteen will provide complemen- and MRket are both slated for Jan. 22 to 24 Religion, Royal Elastics and Oliberte. “We’re tary lunch to key retailers and media. and Agenda from Jan. 23 to 24. not ready yet to call it an official section, but The business climate has improved some- “Will we have as good as attendance as we’ll see how it works,” said Elyse Kroll, what from last year, said Kroll, due to decent we usually do? I can’t imagine anyone will, founder and chairman of ENK International. holiday sales, but retailers and vendors re- as the market is split. But I’m confident the “The ‘S’ stands for sneakers, shoes or street. main wary about the economic outlook. “I important retailers will be at our show,” They all sort of work.” think everyone is apprehensive. People are said Kroll. “We posted our dates first and ENK NYC has sold 225 booths, the same positive but not 100 percent sure how busi- very early. My concern is for retailers, and number as last season, said Mike Sampson, ness is going to move forward. But I think to make it convenient for them and to under- director of the ENK shows in New York and they were more nervous before Christmas stand their travel schedules to all the shows market: Retailers will be able to spend more Las Vegas. than they were after,” she explained. on the calendar.” time at each of the shows, as schedules won’t Apart from “S,” the layout is similar to last However, Kroll emphasized that it be- Minya Quirk, a co-founder of Capsule, said be as jam-packed. year. Designers’ Collective showcases classic hooves retailers to buy optimistically and to that show was scheduled in the third week of For the next round of shows this summer, men’s wear, classifications and accessories; offer new and interesting product to shop- January to follow Pitti Uomo and precede the ENK NYC has finalized July 22 to 24 as its Blue focuses on denim, contemporary and pers. “We’re in the fashion business. If re- Paris trade shows. “We have always sched- dates. Project and Capsule have not final- advanced sportswear; Tomorrow emphasizes tailers don’t buy, then they aren’t in the fash- uled Capsule that way,” she noted. ized their dates yet, according to spokespeo- progressive and emerging labels, and Clean ion business anymore. Product has to move Kroll and Sampson pointed out at least ple from each organization. provides a platform for grooming brands. and to change in order to have a relevant one silver lining to the extended New York — D.L.

WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 MW13 Retail Plays to Wall Street·· in Miami By WWD STAFF Q “There is potential for 350 stores in tion for us. We are the only ones who are Chuck Rubin, president and ceo, Ulta Salon, North America. We’re only a third built bringing national brands to those towns. Cosmetics & Fragrance Inc. RETAIL EXECUTIVES went down to Miami out. We launched our e-commerce chan- Those customers are under-served, and Q “We’re still only about 45 percent built-out Beach Wednesday to show a bit of leg to nel in 2009, it’s now just over 10 percent of they welcome us with open arms.” on our 1,000-store objective, and that 1,000 Wall Street. sales and we are just planting the seeds for Q “There is a Wal-Mart in almost every stores are of our current format, which is And although the economy leaves much international and we have a new concept one of our small-market stores. We like 10,000 square feet.” to be desired, the U.S. is seen as over- called Ivivva.” Q “Ulta.com today is a very small portion stored and technology is pushing system- Q “What we anticipate doing in the future of our revenue base. It’s low-single digit as atic change through the industry, the retail is actually launching online concepts a percentage of our overall business. So, chiefs at the 14th annual ICR XChange first, and then taking them to brick-and- We are the only ones clearly, that’s one opportunity.” Conference each had a reason for why the mortar.” future was theirs. David Jaffe, president and ceo, Ascena Retail There was plenty of bragging about the Gary Schoenfeld, president and ceo, Pacific who are bringing Group Inc. still-growing potential of e-commerce, Sunwear of California Inc. Q “Since we paid off our mortgage, we now store expansion in a flat U.S. market Q “We’re really narrowing and zeroing in national brands to have a debt-free balance sheet and, as of the and financial wherewithal as executives how we communicate to 16- to 24-year- end of the first quarter, over $400 million in courted investors. olds, getting in their heads.…PacSun is a those towns. Those cash. [That] gives us a lot of optionality to Here’s a look at what retail leaders from lifestyle brand.” return value to shareholders — whether it’s public companies had to say on day two of built into a war chest for a potential acqui- the three-day conference. Robert Fisch, ceo, Rue21 Inc. customers are sition someday or we continue to do stock Q “We have Paris. It’s not in France, so — but buybacks.” Michael Prince, chief operating officer, it’s Paris, Texas. It looks like a prison, but this under-served and Guess Inc. store will do — I sometimes stand up here, and Michael Barnes, ceo, Signet Jewelers Ltd. Q “Today we have virtually no business in I go, ‘Oh, my God, people are going to laugh me they welcome us Q “Our merchandising strategy is con- Latin America, and we are working with a off the stage’ — but this store will do over $1.5 sumer pull rather than retailer push, and short list of candidates to partner with in million in business in less than 5,000 square therefore it significantly increases our Brazil. We know that Brazilian customers feet at low rent. So we’re very proud of that with open arms. ability to succeed. We’re increasingly fo- love Guess, so this is a high priority for us.” Paris prison.” cused on the personalization of our inven- Q “We are pushing partnerships in other — ANDREW HALL, tory on Web sites.” markets — such as Vietnam, Cambodia, William L. McComb, ceo, Liz Claiborne Inc. STAGE STORES INC. Q “We see the potential to increase space in India, Indonesia and Peru — as we rebal- Q “Juicy has an enormous consumer the U.S. by about a net 40 percent to a total ance our supply chain to give us greater footprint.…I can’t believe how big the busi- of about 850 Kay mall stores, about 500 Kay price-negotiating power.” ness and brand is around the world. It can off-mall locations and 300 Jareds over a pe- be something in China I believe that Ralph Wal-Mart. We have a symbiotic relation- riod of time. We’re seeing more real estate Christine Day, chief executive officer, Lululemon Lauren Polo can’t be.” ship with Wal-Mart. They have a wide opportunities this coming year, and we’re Athletica Inc. draw, and certainly our customer shops targeting to open 40 to 50 stores in fiscal Q “Our core focus right now is on run and Andrew T. Hall, president and ceo, Stage Wal-Mart, but she is shopping Wal-Mart 2013, including six to eight Jared stores, giv- yoga. We want to take all the oxygen out of Stores Inc. for grocery, pharmacy…not buying her ing us a net increase in U.S. space of about the space in those areas.” Q “Small towns do not have any competi- apparel at Wal-Mart.” ·· 3 percent.”

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The World’s Largest Luxury Magazine Anthony Cenname, Publisher [email protected], 212.597.5663 ISSUE DATE March 31 CLOSING DATE February 17 Sources: 2011 Mendelsohn Affl uent Survey, HHI $100K+; WSJ. Magazine, MATERIALS DUE prototype created by DJG Marketing; Wall Street Journal Europe/Asia Subscriber February 24 Studies; ABC UK, January June 2011; BPA Worldwide January June 2011 © 2012 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved. MW14 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 12, 2012 Men’s Week HMX Celebrates 125 Years

Looks from the 125th anniversary collection, and their designs in sketch form.

by JEAN E. PALMIERI The collection, which will be shown to stores next week during New York market week, will HAPPY BIRTHDAY, Hart Schaffner Marx. sport a special label and the pieces will be The venerable label turns 125 years old this framed and hung on the wall to spotlight the year and to mark the milestone, its parent com- collection. “We really want to give it credit,” pany, HMX Group, is creating a capsule collec- Abboud said. tion for the fall season. The company previewed the line in swatch “There are six or seven iconic men’s piec- form to some of its retail partners and the reac- es that make up this collection,” said Joseph tion has been positive. “We worked with our major Abboud, president and chief clients already and they’re really creative officer. These include interested,” said Brett Schenck, a black-and-white herringbone president of Hart Schaffner jacket, a double-breasted doe- Marx. The company is planning skin blue blazer, a three-piece an advertising and marketing peak lapel gray flannel suit, a campaign around the anniver- vested cavalry twill suit, a pin- sary in the fall season, he added. striped double-breasted suit, a “Hart Schaffner Marx is classic patch-pocket blazer and our single biggest business,” dark denim jeans. “We might Abboud said. “Over the last 20 add a great camel-hair coat, but years, it became a corporate it’s not going to be a big collec- company not a style company, tion,” Abboud said. but the brand has never been “I looked back at the last 70 tarnished. Now we can rev up to 80 years at what have been the engines.” the most iconic pieces,” he The anniversary collection label. The anniversary also allows added. “Things that are antifashion, beautiful, the company to tout its long-standing Made in simple and just great style. These are pieces America posture. Schenck said the brand produc- that are found in every guy’s wardrobe,” but es 200,000 units domestically every year, a fact that updated to be appropriate today. The navy dou- resonates with today’s consumer. ble-breasted blazer, for example, had roots that “If you wave the flag with honesty and integ- “came right out of the Civil War, but Abboud’s rity, it’s OK,” Abboud said. “This is not some fake interpretation is timeless and contemporary. or trumped-up concept to promote business. “It’s the ying and yang of traditional and mod- We have 1,700 people working in our factories ern,” he said. “We want to honor our history and in America,” producing garments with distinct celebrate our future, but we don’t want archival, American styling. “If you give the American con- dusty stuff. It needs to be modern.” sumer style, they’ll buy it.” ARNALDO ANAYA-LUCCA PHOTOS BY REGISTER BY JANUARY 31 FOR A SPECIAL RATE

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