MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: Retailers prepare to A MAN IN-VESTED IN HIS LOOK hit New York later this month for the fall market, Rick Santorum has been surging in his bid for the Republican candidacy. and are looking to keep Some slight tweaks to his style might be the edge he’s been missing. Page MW11 up the holiday sales momentum. Page MW8 January 5, 2012 EYE ON EUROPE European Brands Upbeat on Future Men’s Business Luxury labels look to creative offerings, expanded categories to sustain momentum. byKAYTA FOREMAN PARIS — It’s full steam ahead for the men’s wear sector as it chugs into the New Year with a strong momentum that is expected to continue. In 2011, global men’s wear sales increased an estimated 9 percent to 24 billion euros, or $33.42 billion at average exchange rates, ver- sus 22 billion euros, or $29.20 billion, in 2010. And with high-single-digit growth expected for the next few years, everyone wants a slice of the men’s wear pie, according to Joelle de Montgolfier, a director in Bain & Co.’s EMEA consumer products, retail and luxury prac- tice, who provided the data. “Virtually every brand we speak with is increasing its focus on men’s categories and formats to capitalize on the momentum of the male segment. Men’s brands are also mov- ing from specialization in specific categories [shoes, shirts, etc.] to broader offerings,” she said. The sector is also becoming more po- larized, noted de Montgolfier, with the high- est-end and most accessible luxury brands growing at more than twice the rate of more Deck goes here for this. Deck moderately priced labels last year. goes here for this. Deck goes As a result, on the eve of Pitti Immagine Valentino design Uomo and the men’s fall-winter 2012 runway here for this. Deck goes here for shows in Milan and Paris, the mood among this. Deck goes here for this. duo Maria Grazia Europe’s men’s wear players is positively up- Chiuri and Pierpaolo beat, though brands remain vigilant. Deck goes here for this. Deck “We see a year in which we have to tread goes here for this. Deck goes Piccioli will take carefully and be creative, but in general, [we center stage at Pitti are] positive,” commented Brunello Cucinelli, here for this. Deck goes here for chairman and chief executive officer of the this. Deck goes here for this. Immagine Uomo next eponymous Italian men’s wear label. The week to unveil their company, which generated 240 million euros, Deck goes here for this. Deck or $334.22 million, in sales in 2011 versus Raisegoes here for this. Deck goes first men’s runway 203.5 million euros, or $270.3 million, in 2010, here for this. Deck goes here for collection since the is planning on a spring initial public offering, with the listing in Italy. this. Deck goes here for this. departure of the “This is certainly not a positive moment for Deck goes here for this. namesake designer. the fashion industry, but despite this period The of crisis, we were able to carve out our own Here, a preview of space,” said Mario Griariotto, ceo of Slowear. the line, which melds At Pitti Uomo in Florence next week, the com- traditional classic pany’s high-end knitwear brand Zanone will showcase knits in modern fits made with a Volume styles in updated range of exclusive yarns, such as an evolution proportions with of the classic Shetland yarn softened and en- riched with Geelong wool. modern aesthetics. Marco Bizzarri, president and ceo of For more on Ones to Bottega Veneta, said: “Considering men’s wear is usually the part of the business that Watch at Pitti Uomo, is affected first by economic downturns, it is see pages MW6 key to be able to remain relevant to your cli- ents at every moment, without compromising and MW7. your values, and continue offering premium, high-quality products.” The company opened its first men’s-only store in May this year, in {Continued on page MW4} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 Men’s Week Quiksilver to Launch Line for Kelly Slater byKHANH T.L. TRAN day. You need something Kelly geared toward what Faen that keeps you warm but Slater dubs an “aging surfer.” CULVER CITY, Calif. — Quiksilver Inc. and won’t be overly warm, or “We’re not an adven- champion surfer Kelly Slater are introduc- fits in your backpack with- ture brand, but we’re ad- ing an apparel line aimed at adventurous out being too bulky. Things venture-spirited,” Faen globe-trotters. you see along the way you said. VSTR is also about The line, called VSTR, will launch this sort of pick up mentally or quality, particularly in spring, offering sportswear that mixes physically and incorporate the current economy, function with understated design and qual- that into the pieces. Lots of he said. “People are ity fabrics. Pronounced “visitor,” VSTR is artists and drawings from looking for qual- an acronym for visiting, surfing, traveling our own sketches make ity when they buy and responsibility. The target customer is their way into the line.” something. You don’t Boardshorts a man of any age, with a slightly higher in- For instance, board- want to buy some- for $65. come and a bout of wanderlust. The brand shorts are printed with wa- thing new every six summarizes its philosophy as “modern tercolor paintings overlaid months,” he said. travel essentials for the ocean, road and on topographical maps cre- Slater has al- the journey in between.” ated by Simon Buttonshaw, ready identified his In other words, VSTR is “about how to a Quiksilver artist who SLAVEN VLASIC/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES favorites from the put your passions and beliefs into some- hatched the idea for line, which will offer thing that wasn’t seen as just a prod- VSTR with Slater a few years ago. Other as many as 40 styles for spring and 30 uct for mass sale,” Slater said. men who collaborate with VSTR in- more for fall. He’s waiting to get his hands on “The line and Web site are ways clude artist Sandow Birk and Kepa a marled cotton pullover hoodie with an ex- Voyager in San Francisco, and Air and to express that in a different Acero, a former European surf tended panel that acts like a muffler. Speed in Montauk, N.Y. VSTR also plans forum. Of course, we’re still star. Their influences range from “The long-sleeve shirts are slim-fitting to launch in Europe this spring. Its e- a company and we’re backed Slater’s idea of sewing the but have some stretch to ’em, and I love commerce site is expected to debut in by [Quiksilver] — just to be front pockets on a wool blazer those,” he said. March. Moore is now scouting locations transparent about that — but at a 45-degree angle so that the Hovering between the upper end of the for a freestanding store in Southern we can quickly change di- hands can slouch better in- action-sports market and the opening California, which will supplement the rection or make decisions side to Acero’s video of surf- level for premium brands, retail prices shop that opened last October in without all the red tape.” ing the tip of Patagonia. start at $38 for T-shirts. The rest of Byron Bay, Australia. Slater is the latest Fitting the men’s peri- the line sells from $65 to $75 “The plan is to have a gal- elite surfer to jump from patetic lifestyle, each for boardshorts, $68 to $150 lerylike space to showcase the surf to sportswear. piece is designed with for shorts, $85 to $115 for our product and collabo- Dane Reynolds, anoth- travel in mind. For ex- woven shirts, $98 to $125 rators we work with,” he er surfer sponsored by ample, the selvage jeans, for pants, $125 to $180 for said of the criterion for Quiksilver, also created in straight and slim fits, denim, and $195 to $350 the California store. a signature line with feature an inner back for outerwear. There’s Moore declined the Huntington Beach, pocket that holds a also a $395 waxed-can- to provide sales pro- Calif.-based company. passport snugly. The vas backpack that VSTR jections for VSTR. Joel Tudor collabo- line’s signature de- produced in collabora- To promote sales, rated with Vans on a A $250 waxed- tail of nautical rope is tion with Partners & A $195 wool Faen said VSTR better-priced men’s cotton canvas stitched to the bottom Spade. In fact, VSTR’s blazer with has placed ads in capsule collection jacket from hem of a T-shirt so that philosophy is embod- slanted front publications in the highlighting eco- VSTR. it can be used to hang ied by that bag, which pockets. U.S. and Australia, friendly fabrics such the garment dry from also comes with a including Malibu, as recycled polyester a hook or even a tree branch. compact hammock Monster Children and organic cotton. Otherwise, the styling is clean, and removable mes- and the March edi- While one can’t deny Slater’s status in classic and minimal, in rugged neutral hues senger bag. tion of Surfer. the sport — last year he won his 11th world such as black, indigo, dark green and brown. “The idea is that True to his stat- title and picked up his 17th Surfer Poll tro- “You should be able to wear each item if it doesn’t fit in ure as a world- phy — he is hardly considered a fashion three days in a row without raising an eye- that bag, it’s not class surfer, role model, à la soccer stud David Beckham.