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Raise the Volume

Raise the Volume

MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: Retailers prepare to A MAN IN-VESTED IN HIS LOOK hit New York later this month for the fall market, Rick Santorum has been surging in his bid for the Republican candidacy. and are looking to keep Some slight tweaks to his style might be the edge he’s been missing. Page MW11 up the holiday sales momentum. Page MW8

January 5, 2012

EYE ON EUROPE European Brands Upbeat on Future Men’s Business Luxury labels look to creative offerings, expanded categories to sustain momentum. byKAYTA FOREMAN

PARIS — It’s full steam ahead for the men’s wear sector as it chugs into the New Year with a strong momentum that is expected to continue. In 2011, global men’s wear sales increased an estimated 9 percent to 24 billion euros, or $33.42 billion at average exchange rates, ver- sus 22 billion euros, or $29.20 billion, in 2010. And with high-single-digit growth expected for the next few years, everyone wants a slice of the men’s wear pie, according to Joelle de Montgolfier, a director in Bain & Co.’s EMEA consumer products, retail and luxury prac- tice, who provided the data. “Virtually every brand we speak with is increasing its focus on men’s categories and formats to capitalize on the momentum of the male segment. Men’s brands are also mov- ing from specialization in specific categories [, , etc.] to broader offerings,” she said. The sector is also becoming more po- larized, noted de Montgolfier, with the high- est-end and most accessible luxury brands growing at more than twice the rate of more Deck goes here for this. Deck moderately priced labels last year. goes here for this. Deck goes As a result, on the eve of Valentino design Uomo and the men’s fall-winter 2012 runway here for this. Deck goes here for shows in and Paris, the mood among this. Deck goes here for this. duo Maria Grazia Europe’s men’s wear players is positively up- Chiuri and Pierpaolo beat, though brands remain vigilant. Deck goes here for this. Deck “We see a year in which we have to tread goes here for this. Deck goes Piccioli will take carefully and be creative, but in general, [we center stage at Pitti are] positive,” commented Brunello Cucinelli, here for this. Deck goes here for chairman and chief executive officer of the this. Deck goes here for this. Immagine Uomo next eponymous Italian men’s wear label. The week to unveil their company, which generated 240 million euros, Deck goes here for this. Deck or $334.22 million, in sales in 2011 versus Raisegoes here for this. Deck goes first men’s runway 203.5 million euros, or $270.3 million, in 2010, here for this. Deck goes here for collection since the is planning on a spring initial public offering, with the listing in . this. Deck goes here for this. departure of the “This is certainly not a positive moment for Deck goes here for this. namesake designer. the industry, but despite this period The of crisis, we were able to carve out our own Here, a preview of space,” said Mario Griariotto, ceo of Slowear. the line, which melds At Pitti Uomo in next week, the com- traditional classic pany’s high-end knitwear brand Zanone will showcase knits in modern fits made with a Volume styles in updated range of exclusive yarns, such as an evolution proportions with of the classic Shetland yarn softened and en- riched with Geelong wool. modern aesthetics. Marco Bizzarri, president and ceo of For more on Ones to Bottega Veneta, said: “Considering men’s wear is usually the part of the business that at Pitti Uomo, is affected first by economic downturns, it is see pages MW6 key to be able to remain relevant to your cli- ents at every moment, without compromising and MW7. your values, and continue offering premium, high-quality products.” The company opened its first men’s-only store in May this year, in {Continued on page MW4} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 Men’s Week Quiksilver to Launch Line for Kelly Slater byKHANH T.L. TRAN day. You need something Kelly geared toward what Faen that keeps you warm but Slater dubs an “aging surfer.” CULVER CITY, Calif. — Quiksilver Inc. and won’t be overly warm, or “We’re not an adven- champion surfer Kelly Slater are introduc- fits in your backpack with- ture brand, but we’re ad- ing an apparel line aimed at adventurous out being too bulky. Things venture-spirited,” Faen globe-trotters. you see along the way you said. VSTR is also about The line, called VSTR, will launch this sort of pick up mentally or quality, particularly in spring, offering that mixes physically and incorporate the current economy, function with understated design and qual- that into the pieces. Lots of he said. “People are ity fabrics. Pronounced “visitor,” VSTR is artists and drawings from looking for qual- an acronym for visiting, surfing, traveling our own sketches make ity when they buy and responsibility. The target customer is their way into the line.” something. You don’t a man of any age, with a slightly higher in- For instance, board- want to buy some- for $65. come and a bout of wanderlust. The brand are printed with wa- thing new every six summarizes its philosophy as “modern tercolor paintings overlaid months,” he said. travel essentials for the ocean, road and on topographical maps cre- Slater has al- the journey in between.” ated by Simon Buttonshaw, ready identified his

In other words, VSTR is “about how to a Quiksilver artist who SLAVEN VLASIC/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES favorites from the put your passions and beliefs into some- hatched the idea for line, which will offer thing that wasn’t seen as just a prod- VSTR with Slater a few years ago. Other as many as 40 styles for spring and 30 uct for mass sale,” Slater said. men who collaborate with VSTR in- more for fall. He’s waiting to get his hands on “The line and Web site are ways clude artist Sandow Birk and Kepa a marled cotton pullover with an ex- Voyager in San Francisco, and Air and to express that in a different Acero, a former European surf tended panel that acts like a muffler. Speed in Montauk, N.Y. VSTR also plans forum. Of course, we’re still star. Their influences range from “The long- shirts are slim-fitting to launch in Europe this spring. Its e- a company and we’re backed Slater’s idea of sewing the but have some stretch to ’em, and I love commerce site is expected to debut in by [Quiksilver] — just to be front pockets on a wool those,” he said. March. Moore is now scouting locations transparent about that — but at a 45-degree angle so that the Hovering between the upper end of the for a freestanding store in Southern we can quickly change di- hands can slouch better in- action-sports market and the opening California, which will supplement the rection or make decisions side to Acero’s video of surf- level for premium brands, retail prices shop that opened last October in without all the red tape.” ing the tip of Patagonia. start at $38 for T-shirts. The rest of Byron Bay, Australia. Slater is the latest Fitting the men’s peri- the line sells from $65 to $75 “The plan is to have a gal- elite surfer to jump from patetic lifestyle, each for boardshorts, $68 to $150 lerylike space to showcase the surf to sportswear. piece is designed with for shorts, $85 to $115 for our product and collabo- Dane Reynolds, anoth- travel in mind. For ex- woven shirts, $98 to $125 rators we work with,” he er surfer sponsored by ample, the selvage , for pants, $125 to $180 for said of the criterion for Quiksilver, also created in straight and slim fits, , and $195 to $350 the California store. a signature line with feature an inner back for outerwear. There’s Moore declined the Huntington Beach, pocket that holds a also a $395 waxed-can- to provide sales pro- Calif.-based company. passport snugly. The vas backpack that VSTR jections for VSTR. Joel Tudor collabo- line’s signature de- produced in collabora- To promote sales, rated with Vans on a A $250 waxed- tail of nautical rope is tion with Partners & A $195 wool Faen said VSTR better-priced men’s cotton canvas stitched to the bottom Spade. In fact, VSTR’s blazer with has placed ads in capsule collection from hem of a T- so that philosophy is embod- slanted front publications in the highlighting eco- VSTR. it can be used to hang ied by that bag, which pockets. U.S. and Australia, friendly fabrics such the garment dry from also comes with a including Malibu, as recycled polyester a hook or even a tree branch. compact hammock Monster Children and organic cotton. Otherwise, the styling is clean, and removable mes- and the March edi- While one can’t deny Slater’s status in classic and minimal, in rugged neutral hues senger bag. tion of Surfer. the sport — last year he won his 11th world such as black, indigo, dark green and brown. “The idea is that True to his stat- title and picked up his 17th Surfer Poll tro- “You should be able to wear each item if it doesn’t fit in ure as a world- phy — he is hardly considered a fashion three days in a row without raising an eye- that bag, it’s not class surfer, role model, à la soccer stud . brow,” said John Moore, founder of Pop necessary,” Slater Slater wanted Still, surfing and traveling are what Slater Studio, the design and brand consultancy said. “The whole to make sure knows best from 20 years on the pro circuit, that oversaw the creation of the line. VSTR package can fit in our VSTR set its mark in chasing waves from Australia’s Gold Coast to is Moore’s latest project with Quiksilver; his travel bag as a whole travel piece with every boardshorts. At his first design meeting with Hawaii, Brazil, South Africa and beyond. He firm also designs Quiksilver’s collections for item in the line.” Moore, he twisted the boardshorts as hard channeled his experience into VSTR. girls and women. U.S. retailers that have ordered the as he could. Well-made boardshorts, in his “Creating function into the design is re- At Pop Studio’s loft here, Moore and inaugural collection include Nordstrom, opinion, would pass the wring test. ally the idea we have for making pieces,” he Jesse Faen, VSTR’s marketing director, Bloomingdale’s, American Rag Cie, “It’s not about fashion. Fashion could said. “I take a lot of flights and drive a lot explained that VSTR is different from Ron Herman, Fred Segal Man, Thalia care less about our wring test,” Moore said. and end up in a different climate day after Quiksilver Waterman, another brand that is Street Surf in Laguna Beach, Calif., “It’s about great function.”

A boxer David Beckham Beckham’s Underwear Revealed brief from models his line. the David Beckham Bodywear for by JOELLE DIDERICH Bodywear for H&M,” using H&M line. a David Beckham logo de- PARIS — H&M has lifted the lid on David signed by Alasdhair Willis, Beckham’s . founder of Announcement The Swedish high-street retailer on Creative and husband of designer Wednesday unveiled the British soccer player’s Stella McCartney. first bodywear collection for H&M, which fo- Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s head of de- cuses on nine key products inspired by his style. sign, said these items would form the basis The line will go on sale at 1,800 stores world- of the collection as it grows in future sea- wide on Feb. 2. sons under the retailer’s long-term partner- Unlike the underwear he has previously mod- ship with Beckham, who alongside his wife, eled for Emporio Armani, Beckham’s collection Victoria, is building a growing his and hers features minimal branding on the waistband. fashion empire that also includes fragrances “Collectively, with my design team, we spent and eyewear. time working on the feel, fit and style to ensure “It’s an amazing debut collection, with so the product is not only something I would wear much attention paid to the function and quality but one that I would be proud to put my name of the garments,” Johansson said. on,” Beckham stated. The advertising campaign will feature The collection is available in white, black black-and-white images of Beckham shot by and gray, with four styles of : briefs Alasdair McLellan. priced $12.95 and woven boxers, trunks and Beckham’s current and past endorsements , all at $14.95. include Emporio Armani, Adidas, Electronic There are three tops: a short-sleeve T-shirt Arts, Diet Pepsi, Yahoo, Castrol, M&S, Motorola and tank, both $14.95, and a Henley at $29.95. and Police , making him the fifth- Bottoms consist of pajama pants and long johns, highest-paid athlete in the world in 2010, with both priced at $29.95. $43.7 million in salary and endorsements, ac-

All feature the label “David Beckham cording to Forbes. ALASDAIR MCLELLANBECKHAM PHOTO BY

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 Men’s Week Spotlight on Men’s to Continue in 2012

{Continued from page MW1} is one of the reasons tailoring does so well. Shenyang, China. “Printed T-shirts do really well for us, too; we introduced The brand, controlled by French retail-to-luxury group the T-shirt shop this year with some creative brands such as PPR, in 2011 registered solid growth in all men’s categories, Blood Brothers, Hype Means Nothing and Sons of Heroes. which account for roughly 30 percent of total sales, in partic- Next year we’ll be working with some designers, starting ular in . “We launched our first men’s cruise collec- with new and exclusive projects with Shaun Samson as part tion in 2011, which has performed very well since its arrival of our Bright Young Things initiative, as well as further ex- in stores at the end of this year, proving that clients were clusive prints that we’re working on with new casualwear ready for this additional collection and, in turn, welcomed designers, too.” it,” said Bizzarri. Accessories such as cuff links, bags, shoes and Robust growth in emerging markets —where male spend- were also strong, as men sought to “rejuvenate” their ward- ing dominates — continues to offset a lackluster perfor- , she added. mance on home turf for Europe’s men’s wear brands, nota- In order to maintain the momentum, Barr said the key bly in economically troubled southern markets such as Italy, is to “keep challenging ourselves to excite and inspire our Greece and Spain, with pockets of activity in northern mar- customers.” In the young men’s area, for example, Versace The Ferragamo boutique in Milan. kets, such as Germany and the U.K. men’s wear will be added for the first time, she said, and “China, in particular, is key to the future of men’s wear,” “with 2012 being such an exciting year for London, we said Bain & Co.’s de Montgolfier, citing a new study that es- have a lot of plans in the pipeline to tie in with the Queen’s timated 25 to 30 percent growth for men’s wear in Mainland ets inspired from our archives. We are showing tailoring in Jubilee and the [Olympic] Games, including refurbishing China in 2011 and equally voracious consumption by Chinese a softer, sportier way, which is giving our man options in his men’s footwear.” when traveling abroad. while still feeling ‘dressed,’ ” he said. The brand This year, Barr expects men’s wardrobes to get even more Among the leading men’s wear brands in China, Hugo is expanding its accessory offerings and adding an eyewear sartorial, “with sophistication, refinery and investment being Boss during the first nine months of the year generated collection, due to launch in March in select distribution. key words for our shoppers.” And even casualwear will be a 73 percent sales increase in China and 25 percent in “The collection is born in the same tradition of excel- “highlighted with fantastic tailored pieces,” she said. the Americas. lence as Brioni’s tailoring. Handworked horn, crystal lenses, Jason Broderick, general merchandise manager for But faced with an increasingly sophisticated, fashion- and attention to details create a timeless and fresh collec- men’s wear at Harrods, said the store experienced strong savvy and value-conscious audience, brands acknowledged tion,” said Basmajian. New Brioni flagships are planned for sales over the holiday season from Maison Martin Margiela, key challenges. These include remaining creative and in- Los Angeles, Munich, Hangzhou, China; Doha, Qatar, and Yves Saint Laurent and Paul Smith, as well as early spring novative; dealing with pricing issues, and communicating a Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. The strong brand identity. brand has also recently re- As a pioneer of the upper-casual market, Cucinelli be- furbished its New York store lieves the magic formula lies in delivering contemporary on 57th Street. A Montedoro jacket, Zanone collections with a high degree of craftsmanship. Helping drive sales in and Incotex pants. For Maurizio Corneliani, sales and strategic marketing mature markets is what director at Corneliani, the high-end consumer is looking for Bain & Co.’s de Montgolfier apparel that evokes emotion — “high-quality product that is termed the “fashionization” less rigid and formal, like lighter .” of the male consumer, with With sport among the fall 2011 season’s bestsellers, the “men effect” spilling the luxe-casual trend is set to continue for next fall, though over into leather goods and tailored looks remain important, brands said. shoes, as well as care “It will be a little more dressed up, closer to the image and cosmetics. of women’s wear, more elegant,” said Michele Norsa, ceo “Men have actually of Ferragamo Group. Salvatore Ferragamo in September learned from women as renovated and enlarged its men’s store on Milan’s Via they set more value on what Montenapoleone. they wear and how they Hugo Boss, which has seen outstanding sales of jeans and look. Accessories such as jerseys in its sportswear segments in the last year, expects pocket squares, detailing the to be strong in 2012, with a return to the formal look. and matching shoes, belts Those are getting more luxurious and elegant. In and bags are becoming more general, the style now is slimmer and more fitted than in the and more important to cre- past, said a spokesman for the brand, which at Pitti will pres- ate a total look,” confirmed ent its made-to-measure service for its luxury Boss Selection a spokesman for Hugo Boss. line, due to be introduced into select markets this year. The David Fisher, execu- service will allow customers to be measured by a master tai- tive vice president and lor on designated days at a selection of stores, using a collec- general merchandise man- tion of master suits as a basis for the measurements. ager of men’s and kids at Bloomingdale’s, agreed that men are mirroring female New knitwear designs consumers in the way they from Zanone. shop in terms of building wardrobes based on pieces from receipts from Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana and Lanvin. across different brands and price points that can be put to- “Combined with our winter sale, which successfully started gether to create looks. on Dec. 27, with reductions of up to 50 percent off, men’s “[Up until now for men] it’s been all about the simple wear achieved a double-digit increase over last year.” way of dressing. When they’d buy a suit, they’d say, ‘OK, it’s He said the company is “brimming with optimism” about a pinstripe suit in blue or it’s a black such-and-such suit, or 2012. “We have seen changing habits in the way that men it’s a brown suit. [I can put the darn suit on while I’m still shop over recent years, and our men’s wear department re- asleep] and at least I’ll have a and bottom that match.’ ” flects this shift. It is always the right time to strive for excel- But now, he said, men have learned to mix brands for a lence, and with our men’s wear customers becoming more complete look. “They’re saying, ‘I can buy something from discerning, we are keen to exceed their expectations. As Theory and something from Hugo Boss and Ted Baker, and men are investing more in their wardrobe, we have seen it will all work together,’” said Fisher. a growing demand for premium international labels, par- With more and more brands looking to merchandise ticularly in limited edition and unique pieces.” For spring, their collections in terms of key items, Fisher said the Harrods will offer more color options, along with “prints number-one priority for Bloomingdale’s is the creation of that may have traditionally been seen as too fashion forward. adjacencies, so that when the customer walks in, there is However, our customers are increasingly more confident in some sense to the flow of merchandise. “We’ll be mixing up experimenting with their wardrobe.” certain apparel pieces on mannequins, and we’ll be doing Specifically, he expects strength in the “upper-casual” of- Clients will also be able to select fabrics and accessories more and more of that as we get into 2012 and 2013,” he said. fering that allows men to achieve “a dressed-down cool style and have their signature embroidered on the final product. Anita Barr, director of men’s wear at Selfridges, said with tactile fabrics and design details which exude luxe com- Featuring free-floating interlinings crafted from camel hair that although 2011 was “a difficult year, we prepared our- fort. However there will always be a demand for our made- and horsehair, the suits will be made at the firm’s headquar- selves for it and we managed to trade ahead year-on-year to-measure suits and formal tailoring, as it represents the ters in Metzingen, Germany, using a mix of cutting-edge tech- through introducing sales-driving initiatives, including most elegant aspect of men’s wear dressing. The breadth of nology and precision handcrafting. several brand launches and exclusive shops for brands U.K. tailoring brands we have in store, [including] Hardy Carlo Capasa, ceo of National, said: “The mar- such as Tom Ford and Brioni. In our regional stores, Amies, Mr. Start, Richard James, Paul Smith, Rake and ket understands the important aspects of the identity of the men’s wear has been a huge focus, and we have bolstered Dunhill, continues to provide their own unique flourishes jacket, that in our case still functions well, in addition to our offering in Birmingham, Manchester Trafford and while still being formal.” knitwear and sport coats. We believe that casualwear will Manchester Exchange.” Another future trend, according to de Montgolfier, will be continue to be important, but certainly from new markets Barr said tailored clothing and printed T-shirts were the “omni-channel” retail. there is a strong demand for creative [tailored clothing] from best-performing items last year, and she expects the catego- “It’s not just about e-commerce or m-commerce. It’s about young manager types with a passion for fashion.” ries to continue to perform in 2012. “Our tailoring package is establishing multiple touch points with consumers regard- At Brioni, elegant casualwear continues to grow each really exciting at the moment, and we have some really great less of where they are, reinforcing relationships through season and has introduced the brand to a younger client, new brands, such as Brioni, Tiger of Sweden and Smyth & connections that deliver value-added information, influence, according to Jason Basmajian, artistic director. “In tailor- Gibson,” she said. “Our buying teams work with existing convenient transactions or enhanced experience,” she said. ing, we have seen a strong reaction to iconic colorful jack- brands to create some special exclusive pieces for us, which — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SOFIA CELESTE © Olivier Roller

14-16 Feb. 2012 / spring summer 13 / The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France / T. [1] 646 351-1942 / [email protected] www.premierevision.com MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 Men’s Week Pitti Patter Here are six new and notable brands to check out at the Florence trade show.

A DKNY look. A Chevignon The color palette is dominated by dark, sober sketch. tones, such as black, dark navy, dark slate, graphite, cement, washed fossil and dark purple. — ALESSANDRA TURRA

NIGEL CABOURN FOR EDDIE BAUER British designer Nigel Cabourn has assembled his own personal collection of Eddie Bauer vintage pieces, so it’s no surprise that when the company approached him about a collaboration in 2010, it didn’t take much convincing. “As a team, we’ve always admired Nigel’s work,” said Alan Kirk, senior vice president of global operations for the Seattle-based Bauer. While Kirk was visiting Scotland, he contacted Cabourn about a part- nership, inviting him to the brand’s Pacific Northwest headquarters and a visit to the archives. “We have all these original pieces from the Thirties to the Nineties, and Nigel spent a week with us going through it all,” Kirk said. The result was a collection that included a contem- porary reworking of the 1936 Skyliner down jacket as well as vests with Harris inserts and coyote fur- lined hoods, as well as down jackets in washed leather with Woolrich fabric panels. Everything is manufactured CHEVIGNON in either the U.S. or Canada from U.K. or U.S. fabrics. In a nostalgic mood, Chevignon at Pitti Uomo in Kirk said the initial capsule collection, which re- Florence next week will launch its Chevignon tails at significantly higher prices than the core Eddie Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic capsule line, based on Bauer line, was not sold in the Bauer stores, but at twists on the brand’s iconic Americana sportswear retailers such as Barneys New York in the U.S. as well designs from the Eighties and Nineties. Vukmirovic as at luxury stores in Europe and Japan. Kirk said was consulting artistic director on the line, with sales of the line were strong around the world and es- Chevignon likely to invite other guest artistic direc- pecially appealed to men who are drawn to vintage tors for future collections. product — and have some disposable income. The The collection comprises four men’s and four coyote-lined vest retailed for $1,000 while Cabourn’s women’s looks, including unisex accessories such as interpretation of the Skyliner jacket was $1,400. and . Key items include a cashmere pea- The success of the original collaboration prompted , an aviator jacket in camouflage print shearling a significant expansion of the collection for this fall. and a gray cashmere turtleneck. “We’re going full out,” Kirk said. There will be around Vukmirovic, who left his post as creative director 20 styles offered, focusing mainly on outerwear “with of Trussardi in March, will also oversee the collec- Nigel’s twist,” he said. They will include , hunt- tion’s image, including the lensing of the advertising ing jackets, vests and pants, as well as accessories in- campaign. An experienced retailer — he was art di- cluding gloves, hats and rucksacks. rector and buyer at Colette in Paris, before co-found- The goal, Kirk said, is to expand U.S. distribution ing The Webster boutique in Miami Beach — the de- for the second collection with hopes of adding around signer will develop dedicated showcases and corners 50 specialty retailers. for the collection, which will be distributed in select He said while the initial contract with Cabourn department stores and concept stores internationally. was for three years, Bauer is in discussions to extend Retail prices range from 200 euros, or about $260 at the association another five years. “Nigel is very pas- current exchange, for pants, to around 1,000 euros, or sionate about the product,” he said. $1,300, for a . — JEAN E. PALMIERI Owned by Le Groupe Vivarte, Chevignon, which was founded in 1979, owns 146 stand-alone stores in- ternationally and is distributed in 25 countries. Donna Karan — KATYA FOREMAN DKNY In January 1994, Donna Karan made her European debut with the Donna Karan New York Menswear and DKNY Men’s lines at Pitti Uomo. After a seven-season hiatus, she will return to bring a taste of her personal interpretation of the American urban and cool mood to Florence, showcasing the new DKNY Men’s collection, which was launched in 1993. In line with the spring outfits, which Karan presented at New York’s Nasdaq MarketSite in September, the fall lineup, dominated by contempo- rary, edgy silhouettes, celebrates New York City style. Designed for “a masculine, modern man and his hectic lifestyle,” as Karan said, tailored pieces in classic country fabrics are revisited with a modern twist and are mixed with more casual styles for a re- laxed look inspired by outdoor life. Centered around outerwear, the collection in- cludes a range of options, from wool slim coats and double-breasted peacoats to flannel hooded jack- ets and wool and cashmere styles. There is also a big focus on leather, as shown on soft, washed lamb leather motorcycle jackets, shearling double-breast- ed coats and washed suede, zipped pieces featuring shearling collars. The slim pants include more classic flat-front wool and casual cargos with turned-up cuffs, paired with wool and angora , wool and al-

paca cardigans or cotton shirts. STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 MW7

A Nigel Cabourn for Eddie Bauer jacket. A Mayfair Richard James coat.

A Massif coat. pants for $200 to $450; woven shirts for $200 to $300, and knit VALENTINO shirts from $150 to $250. Hangtags will tell the line’s unique story and retail design veteran Kenneth Walker is creating a Even though Florence is an easy hour-and-a-half train ride shop concept for the brand. from Rome, the trip will probably be particularly intense Branscum said industry people and target consumers have for Valentino creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and been field-testing every piece to ensure that they fit well, are Pierpaolo Piccioli, who, as guests of honor at Pitti Uomo, are comfortable and perform up to the company’s standards. gearing up to hold their first men’s runway show on Jan. 11. Massif is targeting high-end department and specialty To re-create the more intimate atmosphere of couture pre- stores to carry the collection. “The mother brand is global sentations, the catwalk will stretch through the 16th-century and the caliber of retailer who understands this proposition Palazzo Corsini’s Baroque rooms, where 600 guests will be is also global,” he said. able to have a close look at the clothes. In addition to Pitti, Massif will show its line during New With a number of uberchic movie stars in mind, from York Market Week as well as at the Project show in Las Marcello Mastroianni and Alain Delon to and Vegas in February. Louis Garrel, the duo worked hard to offer a new interpreta- — J.E.P. tion of classic men’s wear staples, infusing the lineup with a fresh, contemporary attitude, which Chiuri defined as a “sportswear edge.” MAYFAIR RICHARD JAMES A “subversive elegance” is the leitmotif of the collection, A Union Jack will be according to the designers, who balanced the dominant slim Richard James waving in the Florence fit with more voluminous shapes, such as a fitted, wool drill sky during Pitti Uomo. tuxedo with cropped pants, paired with an oversize wool While London- trench with thermo welded stitches. based tailoring com- The collection also includes coats, and peacoats pany will available in a color palette ranging from black and various present its fall collec- blues, to shades of green, azure and red. tion during a special Stressing the slightly extravagant vein that trickles event, followed by a through the otherwise sober, reserved mood, the accessories, gala dinner, another such as lace-up shoes, travel bags and iPad clutches, are em- tailor will bellished with Chiuri and Piccioli’s signature studs. make his debut at the A backbone of Valentino since 1999, when founder fair — Richard James. Valentino Garavani tapped the duo to create a luxury accesso- Beloved by ce- ries line, the designers, who were named creative directors of lebrities from the the Rome-based fashion house in 2008, have managed to inject Gallagher brothers a new, up-to-date twist to the men’s division, whose sales rep- and Pete Doherty to resent about 6 percent of the company’s total revenues. and — A.T. MASSIF , the designer, who founded Massif is finally ready for its debut. his namesake com- After more than a year in development, the brand will pany with business have its unveiling at Pitti Uomo. The high-tech fashion collec- partner Sean Dixon tion uses the same advanced proprietary technology that the in 1992 and who was a company utilizes for the tactical and rescue gear it provides nominee for to elite U.S. combat units, including the CIA, SWAT teams Designer of the Year and back-country firefighters. All garments have moisture at the British Fashion management and antimicrobial properties as well as stretch Council Awards in and 3-D ergonomic shaping. Seams are naturally shaped to 2008, will showcase legs, underarms are fully gusseted to provide for range of mo- his Mayfair Richard tion, and there are secure interior and exterior pockets and James collection. stealth sleeve pockets. But while the fabrics and details may NICK HARVEY/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY Launched in 2010, be technical, the styling is contemporary. the more contempo- Scott Branscum, president, whose background includes rary, less expensive brand, which is sold at John Lewis and Eddie Bauer, Perry Ellis and Cutter & Buck, has been im- Barneys New York, reflects James’ recognized ability to re- mersed in creating the brand since its inception in November spect the established British tailoring tradition while infus- 2010. And although the first collection won’t hit stores until ing it with a modern, edgy vibe. this fall, retailers have already expressed interest in the label. Aiming to “men with a certain attitude: a certain “They’re completely intoxicated by the story of the brand,” self confidence and sense of individuality and adventure,” Branscum said. “They know there’s something interesting here as the company stated, the fall lineup takes inspiration from and that helps us pass through the brand gauntlet.” London’s posh Mayfair neighborhood. The collection is dom- Massif was founded in 1999 by two entrepreneurs whose inated by slim suits in pinstripes or Prince of Wales patterns adventures included rock climbing and rescue missions. featuring jackets lined with natural fibers for a more struc- The company was acquired by Tactical Holdings and its pri- tured look or with fabrics in bold colors. They are paired vate equity partner, Golden Gate Capital, in 2009. with flat-front trousers and worn over slim, clean shirts in Pierpaolo The apparel collection will feature 34 styles, each in exclusive Richard James cottons, which show stitches in the Picciolo and four to five fabrics. Categories include everything from out- label’s signature colors, including pink, green, blue and yel- Maria Grazia erwear, a hallmark of the line, to sweaters, knit and woven low, on the bottom of the side seam. Chiuri — A.T. Chiuri shirts and pants. Outerwear will retail from $650 to $950; ANDREA DELBO’ PHOTO BY MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 Men’s Week Specialty Stores Positive, but Still Cautious At the upcoming New York market, dollars will be spent on updated sportswear, clothing and denim. by JEAN E. PALMIERI erwear and winter accessories due to the MRket in New York, saving Project and warm temperatures. Capsule for Las Vegas. “There seems to be MEN’S WEAR IS ON a winning streak, but Nevertheless, he reported, holiday busi- more interest coming from the consumer specialty stores aren’t ready to declare victory. ness “exceeded expectations and plan. It in luxe goods and we will be looking to add Although independent retailers finished was nice to see. Traffic was up and we had some new resources in that direction, but the year strong, with a surge in business over more buyers than lookers. It was the per- probably won’t get too carried away. I know the holidays, they are still keeping a cau- fect storm.” for sure that we will be paying more atten- tious outlook about 2012. As a result, Ryan will be hitting the New tion to sartorial — it’s time. And I believe As Wally Naymon of Kilgore Trout in York market for more of the same: “fancy there is a younger demographic that wants Cleveland put it: “I take my optimism one fashion sweaters,” sport shirts and new denim to dress up as my generation did when we day at a time, one week at a time, one month resources. “That’s part of our obligation to were launching our careers.” at a time. We learned some hard lessons in consumers as a specialty retailer,” he said, Richard Rosenblum of Rosenblum’s in 2008 and 2009 and we can’t get too carried “always offering something new and fresh.” Jacksonville, Fla., was also pleased with away. With the instability in Europe and ev- Even so, Ryan, who is also expecting an the end of the holiday season. “Business erywhere else, you just have to play it cool increase for the spring season, is being care- was good, especially the last two weeks,” and be a merchant. Take advantage where ful not to get carried away. he said. “We had good traffic and we saw you can and don’t overbuy.” “We’re planning on maintaining the mo- a lot of gift-giving as well as people buying That pretty much sums up the thinking of mentum, but we won’t go crazy with our pur- for themselves.” specialty stores as they prepare to hit New chases,” he said. “We’re going to be working Although the weather impacted sales of York later this month for the fall market. on maintaining our inventory levels and im- heavy jackets, leathers and sweaters, the Because the four major shows have split up proving our margins.” store was buoyed by the performance of its their timing this year — Project will kick Ken Gushner of Boyds in Philadelphia was better merchandise along with woven and off its three-day run on Jan. 16, along with also pleasantly surprised by the performance Capsule, but ENKNYC and MRket won’t of the store over the holidays. “It was surpris- start until Jan. 22 — stores are being forced ingly good,” he said. “We had increases store- Outdoors wear, to either skip some of the shows or elon- wide in both men’s and women’s.” Although suits and denim gate their visit. They will hit the trade show the cold-weather merchandise didn’t per- were strong at many aisles and showrooms to finish their tailored form, the warm weather “was conducive to specialty stores over clothing buys and look for updated sports- shopping,” he said. “So what we lost in cold- the holiday. wear vendors and trends to lure customers weather sales, we picked up in traffic.” into their stores. Tailored clothing was also a standout “My feeling is that we have to give peo- for Boyds, along with dress furnishings, ple a reason to buy,” said Greg Eveloff of sportswear and shoes, he said. “But sweat- Clotherie in Phoenix. “Something they don’t ers were soft, as were outerwear, gloves, have in their wardrobes. That way if they scarves and hats.” have money in their pockets, they can’t help Gushner, however, is not expecting the but spend it.” strength to continue. “Our business has been which is a very, very, very good sign.” Clothing Tim Ryan of Harley’s in Shorewood, OK all along and December was terrific, but continued to sell as customers sought to up- Wis., said suits, and sport shirts, January and February are tough months no date their wardrobes with slimmer-fitting and sweaters, both fine-gauge and fancies, matter what. We’ll see where we are in the styles. “We’re also getting in a new guy who were among the bestsellers for holiday, spring with the economy, the stock market can wear it,” he said. “Luckily we have a nice along with denim. “We had a huge denim and the weather. We know there’s business presentation, so that’s really good.” season,” he said. to be done, and we’re not overly optimistic Sweaters, as well as denim, were also The only nonperformers were heavy out- or pessimistic — we’re just realistic.” doing well. “Denim has been rocking,” In New York, Gushner will be looking Naymon said. He speculated that when dif- for “things in outerwear that are fresh,” ferent brands become hot, the customer he said. “We’re selling puffy and down feels compelled to add them to his ward- jackets, but I would like alternatives. . “And we’re also selling the commensu- Something fresh in silhouette or material. rate sportswear,” he said. We’re also hoping for a return of leath- Naymon will spend about a week in New er, which has been dead in the water.” York, visiting showrooms and trade shows. He said the sweater business also “needs He will be shopping for outerwear, particu- a kick,” as the basics business has slowed. larly transitional weights, along with leath- “We would like to see a new direction ers and technical fabrics. “Those always there, as well.” sell,” he said, noting “if you have a story to Van Weinberg of James Davis in Memphis tell, people respond.” also was surprised at the performance of He will also finish his tailored clothing men’s wear in December, particularly in the buying and “spend a lot of time looking for last two weeks. Top performers included sportswear. Functional, technical sportswear quarter-zip sweaters, fleece and the whole and outerwear lead the way,” he said. “And “outdoors” category. The store recently maybe we’ll also find a hot new jeans line we added a dedicated area to these products don’t know about.” in the store and “it was a great addition to The Clotherie’s Eveloff said although the mix,” he said. Icebreaker, Mountain holiday business was “pretty decent,” the Hardwear, Marmot and others were strong overall climate is still challenging. The as Christmas gifts. store did best with clothing, dress and sport Weinberg, too, is being cautious about shirts, dress slacks and jeans, while casual the future. “In the last year, we stopped the pants were weak. bleeding,” he said. “We managed through it, He recently completed an overhaul of controlled our expenses and we’re going in the store and that may have contributed to the right direction, but it’s still tough.” sport shirts. Made-to-measure suits were a the sales increase, “but we work really hard So he will be spending his open-to-buy standout, he said, noting that the company’s to stay in touch with our customer.” Pent-up in New York on proven performers, such as beach store added a separate room for this demand after a long drought may also have the outdoors brands. “We’re looking to grow category and it has been “very well received. something to do with it. “People waited for a that business and we’ll also be looking for Guys have loved it.” few years to buy the quality of clothes that we something different in sweaters and knit- Looking to this year, Rosenblum said: sell and they’ve waited long enough,” he said. wear. We’ve been doing a lot of business in “We’re ready for market. The key for us in “Plus, men’s fashion has changed a lot in the quarter-zips, but what’s next?” 2012 is to partner more with our key ven- past several years and they need to update Butch Blum of the store of the same dors — that’s our strategy.” So instead of their wardrobes. If it weren’t for flat-front name in Seattle also reported strong adding a slew of new resources, Rosenblum pants, I would have no pants business at all.” sweater sales over the holidays, along with will work with his current manufacturers to In New York, Eveloff will work the show- casual trousers, particularly five-pocket. grow sales. Top of his shopping list will be rooms and trade shows searching for sport Bucking the trend, he said outerwear was “tasty sportswear,” he said, in dressy and shirts and knitwear for fall. “And I’m still also good, “with and leathers dis- casual options. “We have a career customer pretty bullish on clothing.” playing the best results.” and a customer who can wear casualwear to Overall, he’s upbeat about the future: Looking ahead to the new year, Blum the office,” he noted. “You have to be optimistic, but cautious, said, “It’s difficult to say what will happen. What he doesn’t expect to invest heavily too.” He expressed concern about rising raw We will plan small increases without in- in is tailored clothing. “We’re not going to be material prices, particularly wool, which he creasing our open-to-buy. I would rather making a big commitment up front because of said has increased 40 percent. “For years, chase the business as we did in 2011 because our strong made-to-measure sales,” he said. it was the euro, euro, euro, now it’s fabrics. it results in a much healthier bottom line.” Kilgore Trout’s Naymon said the store’s There’s only so much people can absorb. Blum is planning to attend ENK and holiday results were “the best since ’07, Nobody’s salaries are going up that much.” WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 MW9 Making a Mark in New York A Ralph Lauren alumnus strikes out on his own, Ghurka retools and a documentarian designs a collection inspired by the society set. Highlights from the upcoming January market.

dalously in her eyes. Black Sweater Palmer Trading Co. “It’s a fun story about this notion of ir- reverence, and this brand is an extension of that patrician aesthetic of American luxury,” explained Johnson, who directed the films “Born Rich” and “The One Percent” for HBO. He’s currently working on another film about the decline of the Protestant establish- ment in the U.S. The fall Black Sweater collection will be shown at Project and includes a midnight blue corduroy tuxedo, a gray suit with a hand-stitched shooting patch on the shoul- der and a inspired by the of the Knickerbocker Greys, the children’s cadet corps of the Park Avenue Armory. Shirts are fashioned from English broad- cloth with piqué accents on the plackets. Of course, there are black sweaters in cashmere — along with cream, navy and tan — in the collection, embroidered with a tennis-player icon, which retail for $685. The suits retail for $2,200 to $2,300, blazers for $1,200 to $1,500 and shirts for $285. “It’s classic men’s wear with an empha- sis on the formal and luxury,” summed up Johnson. “It’s an extension of the world I cover in my films.” — DAVID LIPKE

Rhett Bonnett Designer Rhett Bonnett cut his teeth at some of the best-known brands in men’s wear, no- tably Ralph Lauren, J. Crew and Tommy ny’s cozy retail store — which is also dotted Black Sweater Hilfiger. But for fall, the Southern California with antique furniture and vintage Rolexes Isaiah Hemmingway Black Sweater is a tailored clothing line native is taking the plunge, branching out and Playboy magazines. Isaiah Hemmingway may come from a small launched last spring by Jamie Johnson, the on his own to showcase his first men’s col- Bram Robinson, owner of the AYR show- town outside of Detroit, but he has always documentary filmmaker known for revealing lection, which will make its debut at Project. room, which sells the Palmer Trading Co. had big dreams. the philosophies and foibles of his moneyed Inspired by classic American prep, the wholesale line, compared the collection to While in college, getting his degree in peers. The upscale collection of suits, blaz- brand seeks to strike a balance between Filson but contended the quality is better. , Hemmingway started a busi- ers, dress shirts and knits is currently sold ruggedness and luxury. While Bonnett ac- Retail prices are $145 for a Horween cor- ness on the side, creating custom clothing in Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster and the knowledged he was influenced by Ralph dovan leather wallet, $312 for a canvas for private clients with his own unique twist, shop of the Jupiter Island Club in Florida. Lauren and the other designers for whom and saddle leather messenger bag and $400 focusing on fit, color and quality, effectively That latter retail location is apt, as the he worked during his time in the “corporate for a canvas and leather weekender duffel bag. building a customer base of around 70 men. label is named for a quaint story from the world,” his love for all things Next season, the company plans to start For the first few years after college, he resort island. Permelia Reed, the founder of has been “in me forever. I haven’t had to wholesaling its private label apparel, which worked in women’s wear — , plus the Jupiter Island Club, was known for send- take an extra leap to understand that aes- includes flannel shirts, chinos, light outer- sizes and maternity — learning all he could ing a disapproving black cashmere sweater thetic. But I’m creating a new style based wear, gloves and hats. about the technical design end of the busi- to anyone who conducted themselves scan- on a rock-solid foundation.” — D.L. ness. “It was a huge change from men’s wear For the first season, Bonnett focused but still interesting,” he said. “And I gained Rhett Bonnett on “what I think I’m best at,” he said, pro- Hamilton 1883 more experience.” ducing a small capsule collection of woven Custom shirtmakers Hamilton Shirts is For fall, Hemmingway has gone back to outerwear, woven -up shirts, woven showing its wholesale Hamilton 1883 sport his first love, producing a contemporary trousers and neckwear that uses Japanese shirt line at a trade show for the first time sportswear collection for the man seeking textiles. “It’s a small and tight first outing.” this season at Project. a clean aesthetic and a tailored fit. The line Everything is handcrafted in New York The company is looking to expand will be shown at the Vanguard section of the City’s Garment District. “It’s really well its retail base for its ready-to-wear shirt MRket show. made, but attainable luxury,” he said. Prices range after boosting production capabili- All designs are based on the ques- range from $130 for ties and $275 to $325 for ties at its Houston facility, where all of its tion: What does success look like? For shirts, to trousers for $335 to $375 and outer- shirts are hand-cut and stitched together. Hemmingway, that translates into a line of wear that ranges from $485 to $685. Currently, the sport shirts are sold at a small tailored sportswear with matching blazers His goal is to get the line into direc- group of retailers, including Stag in Austin, and pants, sport shirts and matching pocket tional retailers such as Barneys New York, Unionmade in San Francisco, Mortar in squares. Cashmere sweaters, dress shirts Ron Herman and Odin as well as key e- Houston and Journal Standard in Tokyo. that can be worn as barrel cuffs or French commerce players, including Park & Bond. A separate off-the-rack collec- {Continued on page MW10} Down the road, Bonnett hopes to one day tion is sold at Neiman Marcus. expand into knitwear, sweaters and acces- “We use the best fabrics from Italy and Hamilton 1883 sories. the better mills in Japan. That’s what helps — JEAN E. PALMIERI set us apart,” said David Hamilton, whose family founded the company in 1883. “It’s Palmer Trading Co. the first time we’re looking for new retail- Palmer Trading Co. was founded two years ers since we launched the sport shirt line, as ago as a retail store on New York’s Sullivan production capacity had been an issue. But Street and, for fall, the proprietors, David now we have more production.” Ramirez and Willy Chavarria, are launching For fall, the collection includes bold a wholesale business at Capsule. The duo Bengal stripes, plaid flannels, buffalo-check will offer their private label line of bags and and Western styles. The shirts retail from $195 small leather goods, all of which are made to $245, compared with $245 to $345 for the in small, historic factories in New England. company’s custom-fit program available at re- The assortment includes belts, footwear, tailers like Barneys New York, where custom- wallets, card cases, money clips and key fobs ers are measured and create their own shirts. all made from Horween leather, as well as A completely bespoke shirt, where an in- canvas and leather bags. The look of the line dividual paper pattern is made for the cus- is heritage Americana, in line with brands tomer, is also available, with shirts costing like Pendleton, Woolrich, Easton and Klaxon $325 to $395. Howl, all of which are stocked in the compa- — D.L. MW10 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 Men’s Week

The West Is Dead Making a Mark in New York

{Continued from page MW9} canvas, sweatshirts fashioned from revers- cuffs, round out the collection. “Our ultimate ible French terry, a waxed-cotton jacket with goal is to blend tailored clothing with sports- toggles and a jacket inspired by a World War I wear, giving gentleman the option to wear officer’s coat that has been turned inside out. their clothes from day to night,” he said. The West Is Dead — named for a quote Although he still designs custom suits, by painter Charles M. Russell — showed which average around $3,000 retail, the its first collection at the Workroom trade Isaiah Hemmingway line is more afford- show in Las Vegas last year and is show-

Isaiah Hemmingway

traditional pattern reworked into a water “We are one of the very few true print, Phillips said. The print will be offered American luxury brands,” said Pam Bristow, in five colors and two styles, the bulldog and brand director at the New York-based com- the setter, two of the three lengths offered by pany. Under its new owners, Ghurka is mov- the company. ing all of its production back to its longtime able. Blazers are priced at $445 to $595 retail, ing at Capsule for the first time this season. “The samples are strong and striking,” factory in Norwalk, Conn., to emphasize its pants are $195 to $265 and shirts are $99 to Despite Cheng and McCrane’s inexperience, Phillips said, noting that this will be the only commitment to American craftsmanship. $149. Around 80 percent of the collection is their designs have already been picked up piece from the brand offered at the show. Previously, some production had migrated made in the U.S. His target distribution is by a roster of about two dozen influential “It’s just one story,” she said. “We’re hoping specialty stores. stores, including Fred Segal Man, American to provoke a reaction.” — J.E.P. Rag, Steven Alan, Atrium and AB Fits. The shorts are priced at $275 for the — D.L. bulldog and $245 for the setter, which is a slightly shorter model. “It’s a very expensive Ghurka The West Is Dead Orlebar Brown process to create,” she said, noting that all of Kaelen McCrane and Will Cheng, at 22 and The U.K.-based swimwear brand has a new the company’s offerings are based on British 25 years of age, respectively, are among the partner for fall — former Bergdorf Goodman tailoring and manufactured in Europe from youngest exhibitors at Capsule. The two men’s fashion director Nick Wooster, now French fabrics. “These are shorts you can friends founded the brand The West Is Dead creative adviser for the Project show. swim in,” she said. last year after meeting while working in a “Nick has always been a real advocate — J.E.P. wilderness outfitting company in Montana, for the brand,” said Gemma Phillips, inter- at the edge of Glacier National Park. national sales director for Orlebar Brown. The duo were both interested in the out- “Since his days at Bergdorf Goodman, he has Ghurka doors, authentic craftsmanship and the cul- really helped the brand grow in the U.S.” The Ghurka accessories brand was ac- ture of the historic American West and de- Now Wooster’s involvement has grown quired by Brightwork Brand Holdings from cided to create an apparel brand based on deeper. At the upcoming edition of Project, Accessory Network Group in September. those concepts. With no experience in the Orlebar Brown will debut the Wooster The company will unveil its first full season fashion industry, Cheng and McCrane took Camouflage print, an updated version of the since the change in ownership at Project, to Europe and Asia. an 8,000-mile road trip visiting stores all with a fall collection that includes classic de- New styles for fall include bags in wool along the West Coast to sound out their idea Orlebar signs from its 36-year history, as well as up- plaid and twill houndstooth. Previously, all before setting up shop in Los Angeles. Brown dated models. New creative director, Steven Ghurka bags were made in leather or twill. “We started the company completely LaGuardia — a veteran of Bally, Valentino Interiors of bags have been refashioned, with through trial and error,” explained Cheng, and Theory who was hired in September — some bags lined in men’s suiting fabrics. who previously skipped out on a full scholar- is overseeing the fresh design direction. Some prices have inched up to reflect ship to the University of Utah to pursue his Ghurka is currently sold at its own retail higher-quality production and premium ma- passion for traveling and fly-fishing all over store at 781 Fifth Avenue, which opened in terials, with the classic Counselor leather Europe, Asia, Australia and New Zealand. November, and in a handful of wholesale briefcase retailing for $1,695. The company “It’s a lot more difficult than we imagined. accounts, including Mitchells in Westport, has also added options at a lower entry price The manufacturing process is so fractured in Conn. and Richards in Greenwich, Conn. point, such as a contemporary zippered tote L.A. and it’s a definite juggling act.” The new owners are aiming to expand the bag in canvas at $295, which is targeted at a For fall, the lineup includes denim, chi- brand’s wholesale distribution to other top- younger customer. nos that are made from a softened-up duck end specialty retailers. — D.L.

Andrew The View From Project New York Pollard by DAVID LIPKE  tion with the traditional trade show format, longer about just offering product. You have in a strategy that positions the show as more to offer a differentiated experience and en- THE PROJECT show continues to gain trac- than just a platform for writing retail orders. tertainment or you run the risk of becoming tion in New York as it rebuilds its show here, The Made by Project initiative, for example, irrelevant.” after a downturn following the recession. will host a group of artisanal brands, both Designer Todd Snyder has curated a spe- Over 200 brands will exhibit from Jan. 16 to fashion and nonfashion, demonstrating their cial section of Project that is merchandised 18 at 82 Mercer Street, a 20 percent bump up craftsmanship and techniques front and cen- like a retail store, without the usual booth from last July and a 75 percent improvement ter on the ground floor of the show. Martin walls between brands. Participants include from a year ago. Greenfield will hand-finish suit jackets at BLK DNM, 3x1, Dita, Orlebar Brown, Black Andrew Pollard, president of Project, the show, Barbour will re-wax its iconic Sweater and F-68. A communal lounge and noted the show has garnered more inter- jackets, Oak Street Bootmakers will hand- bar area is meant to heighten the community est from European brands that are eager to sew and shoes, Victor Osborne will feel of the showcase. reach U.S. stores as a way to counteract bat- block and shape hats, D.S. & Durga will de- Additionally, Project will officially host 10 Selectism, Slamxhype, Two Inch Cuffs and tered European sales due to the continuing construct scents to educate on the building bloggers as part of The Blogger Project, who William Yan. economic crises there. “We’ve helped connect blocks of fragrance and Bitter & Esters will will have their own dedicated space to blog Sandbox Studio will operate a full-scale a lot more European brands with U.S. distrib- brew specialty beer. and file stories from the show. Participating photo studio on site. Brands can shoot utors and agents. Our retail sales are actually “The way the consumer shops has fun- bloggers include The Denim Guy, Denim products on models there and attendees stronger here than in Europe,” said Pollard. damentally changed and retailers have to Therapy, Freshnessmag, HighSnobiety, can have professional portraits taken for Project is continuing its experimenta- rethink their models,” said Pollard. “It’s no Madbury Club, Marcus Troy, Por Homme, publicity usage. WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 5, 2012 MW11

Man of THE WEEK RICK SANTORUM: B- James Shay Named

He looks uncomfortable. He

IMAGES probably cannot stop thinking President of his oversize math professor . The surging Of Isaia Republican JAMES SHAY has been candidate for promoted to president Oversize shoulders do nothing of Isaia Corp. and will president has to minimize the boxy silhouette, oversee the company’s become known leading to a dated appearance. operations in North and almost as much South America. He suc- ceeds Gianluca Isaia, for his fashion who will now concen- choices as his political Very reminiscent of an Eighties trate more on the com- positions. His signature He’s no Steve Jobs. Ralph Lauren moment. He would pany’s business in Italy His love affair with be better off wearing a more color- and other expansion sweater vest even has neat continues, but coordinated flannel blazer. opportunities, which in- its own Twitter account. the whole outfit is clude building momen- too sporty. Invest tum for the brand as Maybe he should stick in a dress shirt it expands into China, and tie. BRIAN CAHN/ZUMA PRESS/CORBIS; THOUGHT BUBBLE BY JOHN MOLLOY/GETTY JOHN BRIAN CAHN/ZUMA PRESS/CORBIS;MOLLOY/GETTY THOUGHT BUBBLE BY to the vest: he opted Russia and South Korea. for this conservative Shay, formerly vice Eighties-inspired president of the Italian luxury brand, has been turtleneck and blazer with the company for four combo for a recent The blazer is too long. years and is credited with He should go shorter appearance, and Steve helping it gain a foothold and more fitted. in North America. Before It’s starting to look McQueen must be rolling that, he was with Z Zegna feminine. over in his grave to see as vice president. this poor interpretation Isaia recently opened its first store in of his iconic style. The tone-on-tone black Shanghai and is expect- makes him look slender, ing to roll out 20 stores but is too reminiscent of by end of 2012. the clergy. And that’s a If you have small feet, avoid tassels or extra shine — JEAN E. PALMIERI sensitive topic. and opt for a traditional, stronger lace-up. SANTORUM PHOTO BY CHERYL SENTER/ /AP/CORBIS; SWEATER VEST BY VEST BY CHERYL SENTER/ /AP/CORBIS; SWEATER SANTORUM PHOTO BY

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