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LIVING LARGE

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38 EDITOR’S LETTER 44 CONTRIBUTORS 46 COLUMNISTS on Envy 49 THE WSJ. FIVE Take any ensemble to new heights with each of these exceptionally designed accessories. Photography by Matthew Kristall Styling by Karen Kaiser 152 STILL LIFE Carrie Mae Weems The photographer—with a solo show in NYC next month—shares her favorite things. Photography by Brian W. Ferry

What’s News.

61 Colson Whitehead Returns With an Ambitious Novel Giorgio Armani Teams Up With Bugatti

64 A Liberian-Produced Clothing Label Gives Back Sally Mann’s Photographs of Cy Twombly’s Studio The $11,000 Exercise Rack and Bench

66 Fall’s Dramatic, Daring Watches Beloved New York Speakeasy Chumley’s Reopens

70 Spanish Architects Create a School for a Nairobi Slum Menswear Label Boglioli’s First U.S. Store The New Wave of Japanese Coffee

72 Satisfy, the Chic Activewear Line out of Paris The Colorful Coaches of England’s Premier League

74 Panerai’s First Minute-Repeater Timepiece Navy-on-Navy Kicks Are Fall’s Latest Must-Have Designer Virgil Abloh Launches a Furniture Collection

76 The Download: Anthony Bourdain

78 Q&As With Artisanal Furniture Makers

ON THE COVER Shane Smith, CEO of Vice Media, at his home in Santa Monica, California, photographed by Magnus Marding; grooming by Giovanni Giuliano.

THIS PAGE The Serpentine Galleries’ artistic director Hans Ulrich Obrist, in front of the Serpentine Sackler 93 Gallery in London, photographed by Robbie Lawrence. FOLLOW @WSJMAG:

“the uniform 800-457-TODS has changed. it doesn’t follow the same rules anymore.” –Patrick grant, savile row designer, P. 98

138 142

Market report. the exchange.

85 BEST IN CLASS 93 TRACKED: Hans Ulrich Obrist 98 HELLO, TAILOR This season, earn top marks in polished, After 25 years in the art world, the Savile Row has long been the bastion gentlemanly looks that are perfectly Serpentine Galleries’ artistic director of bespoke British tailoring. Now prepped for fall. is more prolific than ever. these designers are bringing it into Photography by Bruno Staub By Harriet Quick the future. Styling by Charlotte Collet Photography by Robbie Lawrence By Paul Croughton Photography by Nacho Alegre 96 TABLE TALK Over the past two decades, restaurateur and hotelier Andrew Tarlow built an empire that helped redefine dining beyond his Brooklyn borough. The latest example: his first cookbook, out this month. By Howie Kahn Photography by Jesse Chehak

Clockwise from top: A body form covered in fabric at Gieves & Hawkes in London, photographed by Nacho Alegre. A pathway leading to Villa Além in Portugal’s Alentejo region, photographed by Paulo Catrica. Sandals that once belonged to Mahatma Gandhi in photographer Henry Leutwyler’s new book, Document. JACK HUSTON

“we Protect this Place for the future of our country. for the future of our children.” –andrÉ bauma, congolese Park ranger, P. 104 126

96 104

Men’s Style issue. OVERSEAS 104 PARK & RESTORATION 126 L . A . V I C E 138 THE STUFF OF LEGENDS Bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, this timepiece is Ravaged by civil war, eastern Congo Shane Smith, mastermind behind Photographer Henry Leutwyler the ideal companion for an extraordinary voyage that reveals a unique was for many years a no-go zone. Vice Media’s ever expanding empire, uncovers the possessions of some of Now Virunga National Park’s team has relocated to Santa Monica, the biggest stars of the last hundred perspective on the world. It is the only watch of its kind. of rangers is helping to maintain California, where he and his wife, years in his new book, Document. security, bringing an influx of Tamyka, have restored a sprawling By Elisa Lipsky-Karasz visitors—and hope for the area’s Spanish Colonial estate. OVERSEAS CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755 WORLD TIME endangered population of gorillas. By Andrew Goldman 142 CASTLE IN THE SKY By Tom Downey Photography by Magnus Marding Photography by Jamie Hawkesworth In Portugal’s Alentejo region, Swiss architect Valerio Olgiati has 134 FIELD TRIP designed a personal retreat, Villa 116 THE BIG SLEEP For the man who has everything, Além—a massive, avant-garde Geneva official watchmaking This fall, kick back and relax in how about something more? Choose concrete structure that gestures certification comfortable and cozy looks that from an array of versatile weekend to the heavens. are anything but tired. bags and rugged-yet-elegant boots— By Tom Vanderbilt Photography by ideal for country or city slicking. Photography by Paulo Catrica Annemarieke van Drimmelen Photography by Thomas Giddings Styling by Julian Ganio Fashion Editor David Thielebeule Prop Styling by Michael O’Connor

Clockwise from left: Restaurateur and hotelier Andrew Tarlow at his home in Fort Greene, Brooklyn, photographed by Jesse Chehak. A bowl designed by Pablo Picasso at Shane Smith’s home in Santa Monica, California, photographed by Magnus Marding. A Congolese man, photographed by Jamie Hawkesworth. PABLO PABLO PICASSO MADOURA STUDIO POTTERY BOWL, © 2016 ESTATE OF PABLO PICASSO/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK

Discover more on overseas.vacheron-constantin.com Rod Paradot See the  lm DIOR.COM/HeartsAndMind editor’s letter CH-CH-CH-CH-CHANGES

ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS

FRAME BY FRAME Anubis and Bast, both in Calvin Klein Collection, visit London’s Serpentine Pavilion, designed by Bjarke Ingels.

NE OF THE REASONS we look forward to nominations). He still knows how to live large, as at a hallowed institution in men’s fashion: Savile September is its promise of transforma- our profile set at his new $23 million home in Santa Row. For more than a century, this narrow stretch tion: The crisp autumn air signals new ideas, Monica, California, attests. of London has been synonymous with the finest new looks, new plans. Our September Men’s Another sort of rejuvenation has been happening traditions of bespoke tailoring. Now a new class of OStyle issue highlights the power of metamorphosis, at one of Africa’s most treasured wilderness areas: creative directors at some of the oldest houses on whether in a single person’s career or across an entire Virunga National Park, in eastern Congo. Once a the Row, including Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman, country over the course of decades. major tourist destination, Virunga was closed off for is introducing a modern sensibility and encompass- Vice Media CEO Shane Smith knows the meaning many years by a brutal civil war starting in the mid- ing ready-to-wear pieces—an elegant bridge between of revolutionary change firsthand. He helped turn 1990s. Today a team of dedicated rangers, under the past and present and a reminder, as fall arrives, that a small Canadian periodical into one of the world’s supervision of chief warden Emmanuel de Merode, few things are as transforming as a well-made suit. most aggressive media companies. Along the way, has welcomed visitors back to the park. These rang- Smith himself has grown from a hard-partying ren- ers have created a new atmosphere of security and egade into the respectable mogul and family man he are valiantly protecting Virunga’s endangered popu- Kristina O’Neill is today, overseeing an empire that spans more than lation of gorillas. [email protected] 30 countries (and that recently earned several Emmy The issue also explores a changing of the guard @kristina_oneill

38 wsj. magazine DELVAUX ` CIFONELLI `

BARNEYS.COM NEW YORK BOSTON CHICAGO LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES SAN FRANCISCO SEATTLE FOR INSIDER FASHION ACCESS: THEWINDOW.BARNEYS.COM EDITOR IN CHIEF Kristina O’Neill

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Magnus Berger

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Knutsen VP/PUBLISHER Anthony Cenname ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Stephanie Arnold MANAGING EDITOR Brekke Fletcher ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/LUXURY Alberto E. Apodaca DEPUTY EDITOR Elisa Lipsky-Karasz BUSINESS DIRECTOR Julie Checketts Andris MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR/LUXURY-EU Omblyne Pelier DESIGN DIRECTOR Pierre Tardif EXECUTIVE FASHION DIRECTOR Claudia Silver PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Jennifer Pastore BRAND DIRECTOR Caroline Daddario BRAND MANAGER Tessa Ku FEATURES EDITOR Lenora Jane Estes MAGAZINE COORDINATOR Suzanne Drennen STYLE DIRECTOR David Thielebeule LUXURY SALES COORDINATOR Robert D. Eisenhart iii

ART DIRECTOR Tanya Moskowitz EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, NEWS CORP Rupert Murdoch SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Damian Prado CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, NEWS CORP Robert Thomson CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, DOW JONES & COMPANY William Lewis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Thomas Gebremedhin EDITOR IN CHIEF, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Gerard Baker COPY CHIEF Ali Bahrampour SENIOR DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Michael W. Miller PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Scott White EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, WSJ. WEEKEND Emily Nelson RESEARCH CHIEF Randy Hartwell HEAD OF GLOBAL SALES, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL SENIOR MARKET EDITORS Trevor Fellows Isaiah Freeman-Schub, Laura Stoloff SENIOR VP MULTIMEDIA SALES Etienne Katz ASSOCIATE MARKET EDITOR Alexander Fisher VP MULTIMEDIA SALES Christina Babbits, Chris Collins, John Kennelly, Robert Welch ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Meghan Benson VP VERTICAL MARKETS Marti Gallardo EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Sara Morosi SVP STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS Evan Chadakoff VP AD SERVICES Paul Cousineau JUNIOR DESIGNER Caroline Newton VP INTEGRATED MARKETING Drew Stoneman FASHION ASSISTANTS VP CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS Colleen Schwartz Giau Nguyen, Lizzy Wholley EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MULTIMEDIA SALES/ASIA Mark Rogers EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, GLOBAL EVENTS Sara Shenasky PHOTO ASSISTANT Amanda Webster MANAGER, GLOBAL EVENTS Diana Capasso CONTRIBUTING EDITORS AD SERVICES, MAGAZINE MANAGER Don Lisk Chelsea Cardinal, Michael Clerizo, AD SERVICES, BUREAU ASSOCIATE Tom Roggina Julie Coe, Kelly Crow, Jason Gay, Jacqui Getty, Andrew Goldman, Parker Hubbard, Howie Kahn, Joshua Levine, Sarah Medford, Meenal Mistry, Clare O’Shea, Kavanaugh Oktavec, Michelle Peralta, WSJ. Issue 75, September 2016 Men’s Style, Copyright 2016, Dow Sarah Perry, Christopher Ross, Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole or in Fanny Singer, Dacus Thompson part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for CONTRIBUTING SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Weekend Edition Andrea Oliveri and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 1-800-JOURNAL SPECIAL THANKS Tenzin Wild (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected] or write us at: 200 Burnett Road, Chicopee, MA 01020. For advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800-843-0008, email [email protected] or visit our reprints web address at www.djreprints.com.

42 wsj. magazine september 2016 CONTRIBUTORS

BY SARA MOROSI

THEN AND NOW L.A. VICE P. 126 Below: Vice Media, When Magnus Marding (below, left) arrived founded by Shane Smith, Gavin McInnes at Vice Media CEO Shane Smith’s Los Angeles and Suroosh Alvi, mansion to shoot this month’s WSJ. cover began as Voice of story, he recalls, “It felt like an old-school- Montreal in 1994. Left: The company’s Hollywood dream—the huge house, palm Williamsburg, trees, fabulous pool, enormous gardens.” Brooklyn, headquarters. Marding notes that photographing a subject at home, without the effects of styling, allows him to “capture the essence of the person. Shane is a strong character but extremely open and warm, which comes across in the family portraits especially.” Writer Andrew Goldman (below, right) has followed Vice since the early aughts. “Its post-9/11 degenerate aesthetic gave me this sense that I was missing out on what was happening in NEWS MAKERS Williamsburg. It was aspirational,” he Left: In 2013, Vice remembers. In profiling Smith, says traveled with Dennis Rodman to North Goldman, “I was fascinated by all of Vice’s Korea to meet leader latest investments, projects and acquisitions Kim Jong-un. and by how far they’ve come.”

PARTY PUBLISHERS Left: Vice magazine over the years. Above: The original Vice crew pose in their Montreal office in 1999. Right: The finale of Beverly Hills Cop (1984) was filmed at Villa Ruchello, the mansion Smith now lives in.

PAUL CROUGHTON BRUNO STAUB HARRIET QUICK ANNEMARIEKE Writer Photographer Writer VAN DRIMMELEN hello, tailor p. 98 Best in class p. 85 tracked p. 93 Photographer

the Big sleep p. 116 L.A. VICE, CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: DAVID CHOW; EPA/KCNA;COURTESY MAXOF ANNEMARIEKETOUHEY; COURTESY OF VICE;VAN DRIMMELEN NILS MARDING; RIBIN HENRY; NO CREDIT (2); PORTRAITS, FROM LEFT: RANKIN; JULIAN GANIO; ANDREW WOFFINDEN;

44 wsj. magazine T:9”

soapbox THE COLUMNISTS WSJ. asks six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: Envy.

M A RY- MARC LOUISE PETER MARGARET SIMON MIRA MARON PARKER SINGER ATWOOD DE PURY NAIR

“I’m happy with my suc- “Envy is the demon “The classic expression “Envy is one of “In art collection, there “Envy is a corrosive cess, but I was certainly spawn of self-loathing of envy is in Tom Wolfe’s Shakespeare’s major are as many different thing. It weaves its ugly driven by envy and and comparison. But novel The Bonfire of the themes. He saw a lot of motivations as there are magic. But it is also a spite for most of my life. when you compare Vanities, where the guy it around him, mixed different collectors. In fact of life. Hollywood Validation is shifty in yourself to others, you’re who makes a million in with the power plays some cases, envy may and the world often feed this business; if you’re never going to win. dollars a year working of Renaissance politics. play a role. But I think us this lie, which is that not capable of saying, There will always be on Wall Street is envious In The Tempest, for perhaps it’s more about only one of us can suc- ‘I’m doing a good job,’ someone prettier, some- of someone who has a example, Antonio is emulation—collec- ceed at a time—us being

how do you determine one smarter, someone permanent limo driver. envious of his brother tors trying to emulate women or people of color T:11” what it means to be kinder. But it’s that com- Once you have that atti- Prospero’s role as duke. what another has done. or any ‘other.’ We are successful? My envy parison that’s a slippery tude, you can never have Antonio says some- When I see a truly great told both subliminally and insecurity pushed slope. On my personal enough. I’m sure there thing like, ‘Those fancy collection, I am in awe, and directly that there is other people away. I was laundry list of shortcom- are circumstances where clothes, they look just as because I consider not enough room for all preemptively defensive. ings, envy would not be envy can lead to some- good on me.’ Everything collecting an artistic of us, that there is a limit Opportunities came toward the top, because thing positive, where has a positive and nega- pursuit in its own right. of one success story. to others, and I was I’m only ever in competi- because someone is tive form. The positive So a great collector to This lie creates envy resentful. I would call tion with myself and my envious of the success of form of envy might be me is like an outstanding and divides those who my manager and say, own standards, which I’ll others, they work harder aspirational admiration, artist. Take collectors should be in solidarity. ‘Why the hell is that never live up to—I don’t and are able to achieve the idea that I’m going like Leonard Lauder or But I reject this lie. Envy Self-braking. Self-correcting. Self-parking. guy getting that?’ It believe that anything things that may benefit to try hard to be as good Peter Brant—it’s sheer is utterly useless. We eventually levels off, is ever finished or good everyone. But that can as you. Still, there’s a pleasure to see what must teach ourselves to but not without a lot of enough. And envy is also happen without reason envy is one of one individual has been see through it, because Its impact is self-explanatory. wreckage and burned always a secret. People envy. I really believe the seven deadly sins: able to acquire. I can’t it’s such a game. It’s not bridges. It took a lot to hold it close to the vest. that giving significant Instead of working to even begin to see why a propulsive thing. We The all-new Mercedes-Benz E-Class. The 2017 E-Class embodies Mercedes-Benz’s commitment to transforming not get out of that. The steps Even if you can read all sums to charities helps be as good as you, I’m one should feel envious cannot succeed alone. are: Acknowledge your over someone’s face that quell envy because you going to work to destroy of it. The best way to True success comes only just the automobile, but mobility itself. A self-parking, self-correcting luxury sedan with intelligent advances like limitations, accept what they’re envious of some- get more satisfaction you. It’s very interest- make yourself miserable when we are all lifted. PRE-SAFE Impulse Side, which can anticipate a side-impact collision and reposition you to help minimize the effect, you do and then decide one else, they’re never out of giving money ing to observe dogs or is to be envious. In art Still, envy is fertile and PRE-SAFE Sound, which helps protect the ears from damaging sound should an impact occur. The revolutionary new whether you’re feeling going to come out and away than spending it other social animals, auctions, competition ground for creative healthy competitiveness admit it, since envy is a on yourself. You cease to because their place in the plays a much bigger role work. We are drawn to E-Class is the very future of transportation. Here and now. MBUSA.com/E-Class or just beating yourself great source of shame. be envious of others who hierarchy is important to than envy, as collectors it because it reveals the up. For some creative And the shame in turn have more—why do you them. Envy is not just a compete to find the best prismatic human being. people who believe they feeds the envy, because need to buy an expensive human thing; it’s a very works. The desire to A person who is envious are unique and underap- to admit that you’re watch or car when there primal thing. Now, how excel at something, that is not a bad person— preciated, it’s a constant envious is to admit to are much more worth- do you keep from letting competitive streak, is there is much more to internal battle.” feelings of being lesser.” while things to do with it consume you? I don’t absolutely healthy. But it than that. There is your money?” know. Do yoga? Breathe envy will never make no gorgeous drama in in, breathe out.” you happy.” everything being good.” Singer is a professor of bioethics Parker is an actress. She will at Princeton University and Maron is an actor and come- star in the play Heisenberg, the author of One World Now: Atwood is a writer. Her latest De Pury is an auctioneer, art Nair is a director. Her latest dian and the host of the WTF which begins previews on The Ethics of Globalization, novel, Hag-Seed, is out in dealer and owner of art advisory film, Queen of Katwe, will be With Marc Maron podcast. Broadway this month. out now in an updated edition. October. firm de Pury de Pury. released this month.

46 wsj. magazine 2017 E300 Sport Sedan in Selenite Grey metallic paint shown and described with optional equipment. PRE-SAFE® Impulse Side and PRE-SAFE Sound technologies do not guarantee that a driver would not suffer injury in the event of a collision. Vehicle cannot drive itself, but has semi-automated driving features. Always observe safe driving practices. Please refer to the operating manual for details on driver-assist systems. ©2016 Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC For more information, call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES, or visit MBUSA.com.

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56 wsj. magazine Most hotels train their people with booklets. We take ours to the ballet.

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FREEDOM HIGHWAY Colson Whitehead at Brooklyn’s Plymouth Church, many of whose congregants aided the antislavery movement.

HAT IF the underground railroad was a literal railroad? And what if each state, as a runaway slave was going north, was a different state of American Wpossibility, an alternative America?” Colson Whitehead recounts these two “science- fictiony” questions over lunch in Greenwich Village. Uttered privately to himself as he finished his second book, John Henry Days, back in 2001, they became the core inspiration for his recently published novel, The Underground Railroad. The problem at that point of literary conception, however, as so often in life, was timing. “It seemed a bit beyond my powers,” he says. “Every few years I’d finish a book, pull out my notes and wonder, Can I do it now? And think, Nope, not yet. I just didn’t feel ready over the 15 years I was approaching the novel.” Though one can empathize with Whitehead’s authorial trepidation at tackling the subject of slavery, on every page of The Underground Railroad is evidence of a mature writer in full control of his talent and ambition. He has taken that most horrible American story—already indelibly told in firsthand accounts by former slaves such as Solomon Northup and William Wells Brown and Harriet Jacobs and in novels such as Toni Morrison’s Beloved and Edward P. Jones’s The Known World—and, like Gulliver on his travels, reconceived its borders and tone to encompass subsequent traumas of the African-American experience. The result is a story at once fabulist and searingly precise, driven by a deadpan voice that manages to do equal literary justice to the suspense of the plot, the author’s version of historical truth and the emotions evoked by its protagonist, the young runaway slave Cora. “I didn’t want to write the Novel of Southern Black Misery, as I called it when I was younger,” Whitehead says. He’d read some of those books back in college and felt “very remote” from them. “Perhaps I was wait- ing to find the language to write about slavery, or the shelf life right tools. I think becoming a father was a difference. The idea of losing a child or a parent means something different to me now than it did 15 years ago.” WORKING ON A RAILROAD For anyone who has followed Whitehead’s icon- oclastic, award-winning career since his debut In an ambitious new novel, years in the making, Colson Whitehead novel, The Intuitionist, appeared in 1999, the ambitious reach and cool embrace of irony in this novel takes on the topic of slavery—and its tangled legacy. will strike a chord of recognition. Bill Thomas, the publisher and editor in chief of Doubleday, who has BY JOHN BURNHAM SCHWARTZ edited Whitehead for more than 15 years, believes PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY LIEBMAN that “everything in Colson’s previous work added >

wsj. magazine 61 what’s news

expressed in Zone One (Whitehead’s literary take on social tolerance until Cora begins to grasp what the the postapocalyptic zombie novel). white doctors in their gleaming skyscraper hos- Whitehead—who is 46, lives in Manhattan (where pital are really there to do to black people. At that he also grew up) and has two children, ages 2 and point Ridgeway, the pseudo-rationalist slave catcher 11—has never created a protagonist quite like Cora, who never managed to capture Cora’s mother, whose harrowing journey north reappears on the scene, having marks her with the knowledge discovered her path through that “the only way to know how “i didn’t want the underground railway and all long you are lost in the darkness to write the that it signifies. And so, by the is to be saved from it.” Orphaned novel of slimmest and most terrifying when her mother runs away from of margins, Cora escapes far- the Georgia cotton plantation southern ther north—to North Carolina, where they are slaves, Cora sees black misery.” Tennessee, Indiana—each state a herself as a permanent “stray” —colson whitehead different incarnation of a brutal within her own imprisoned com- obsession with race, the toll of munity. Raped by other slaves her losses and the weight of her and then sexually claimed by the plantation’s sadis- knowledge made unforgettable by Whitehead. tic owner, she decides to attempt an escape with a “She discovered a rhythm, pumping her arms, literate slave named Caesar, who has heard rumors throwing all of herself into movement. Into north- of a miraculous underground railroad that, if they ness. Was she traveling through the tunnel or digging can somehow reach its nearest sta- it?” he writes. “On one end there was who you were tion, might carry them north to before you went underground, and on the other end a freedom. With help from a white new person steps out into the light. The up-top world “station agent,” Cora and Caesar must be so ordinary compared to the miracle beneath, make it down into the first tunnel the miracle you made with your sweat and blood. The and onto a train whose hulking secret triumph you keep in your heart.” steel reality stuns them like a As Whitehead reflects on the process of beautiful, frightening dream. writing The Underground Railroad, one gets the Their first stop is a radically sense that he’s been carrying around his own secret transmogrified South Carolina— triumph—which now, with the book’s critical and GIANT STEPS the point when Cora’s journey cultural embrace by Oprah (she recently announced Whitehead’s The begins to break the bounds of expec- that she’d chosen it for her book club), is, of course, no Underground Railroad tation. “That leap, on page 70, when longer secret. “I’ve been working in a certain vein for was chosen by Oprah for her book club Cora first sees the skyscraper [that the last 18 years,” he gratefully acknowledges, “with in August. Above: stands in the center of the city],” a certain kind of audience. Oprah opens up the book Whitehead in Whitehead recalls, “for me, that’s to so many different kinds of people who have never Plymouth Church. the marker telling me that now we heard of me, who have no interest in zombies or poker can really start getting to the heart or elevator inspectors.” up to this book.” He’s referring specifically to the of things, and telling the reader that now your sense of Above all, though, Whitehead has done what he set “metaphor made physical in the elevators” of The what the book is is going to change.” out to do in this novel, along the way surprising not Intuitionist (a noirish satire about a female African- And change it does. In the airless dark between just readers, but himself. “Seeing how Cora learns American elevator inspector in a world of racial two underground rail stations, we have gone from so much from state to state,” he says, “her emo- repression and intrigue); the original use of “huge one state to another in more ways than one. What has tional and philosophical growth, how she changes amounts of historical research” in John Henry so far read as a traditional slave story, straightfor- from the first page to the last, and getting to a place Days (a contemporary investigation into the mythic wardly told, becomes a series of dramatic imagined where I could talk about so many different things in “steel-driving” man of American folklore); “the variations on the history of racial persecution and the book—eugenics and the Holocaust and debates fragility of the African-American community” in survival in America. between gradual black progress and more aggressive Sag Harbor (a coming-of-age tale set in the 1980s); South Carolina and its outward mingling of black progress—the sense that I was able to put in and “the profound feeling of human aloneness” the races seems an exhilarating jump forward in everything I wanted to say is truly gratifying.”

partnership STREET STYLE

This fall, the elegant sensibilities of Giorgio Armani, the Italian fashion brand, and Bugatti, the French luxury car manufacturer, have been incorporated in their first capsule collection of leather goods and clothing. The line—highlights of which include a calfskin briefcase and backpack (right)—features motifs of the Bugatti brand, such as the automaker’s horseshoe-shaped emblem as pendants on bags and blue suede as

vibrant linings. For details see Sources, page 150. —Isaiah Freeman-Schub F. MARTIN RAMIN (BOOK, BAGS); STYLING BY ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO (BAGS)

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creative brief Chid Liberty, 37, left his native art talk Liberia as a toddler. When he GOOD finally returned in 2009, he was STUDIO VISITS an entrepreneur set on making LOOKS change. After working in Silicon Valley, Liberty co-founded Liberty & Justice, Africa’s first Fair Trade–certified apparel manufacturer, with a factory in Liberia and partnerships with others in Morocco, Kenya and Ghana. In Liberia, Liberty noticed that many children were missing school because they were unable to afford uniforms. “Liberia has one of the lowest school-enrollment rates [in Africa],” he explains. “And many women were out of work because of Ebola.” These two factors prompted his new venture, Uniform, a Liberian-produced clothing label launching this month, featuring stylish basics—from T-shirts to IT WAS INEVITABLE that Cy Twombly and Sally Mann would dresses to bomber jackets—made of African materials find each other. After all, the two most famous artists from Lexington, Virginia, were both misfits. He was the like organic Benin cotton. For every garment sold, the idiosyncratic painter whose mix of graffiti-like scrawls and company provides a Liberian child with a free uniform. literary references defied easy categorization, and she the “Through our factory, I’ve seen women open their first photographer of evocative family pictures and landscapes WELL WORN who always cleaved a distinctive path. Both chose to work bank accounts, build houses, even leave terrible mar- Above: An outfit from the new outside the glare of art-capital spotlights: Mann has always Liberian-made clothing line riages,” says Liberty. “Witnessing that impact has Uniform. Above right: The been based in rural Lexington, while Twombly spent most label’s founder, Chid Liberty. been powerful.” shopuniform.com. —Tara Lamont-Djite of his career in Gaeta, Italy. But in the early ’90s, when he started returning home for half the year, they developed a special bond that lasted until his 2011 death. “We thought of each other as kindred spirits,” says Mann, who recounts how the two often took walks, went for long why does it cost so much? rides in her old BMW (“Cy loved that car because it was like the rack is made of a luxury boat, and he could stretch out in it”) and spent time aeronautic- THE $11,000 in each other’s studios. His unlikely workspace, a former grade,

single-block gas company office, was a humdrum, 1950s brick building 1999, INKJET PRINT 8 X 10 INCHES (20.3 X 25.4 CM), EDITION OF 3, aluminum. RACK & BENCH with single-pane windows. But there, amid low ceilings and fluorescent lighting, Twombly completed a number of major In 2006, Italian designer works. One day in 1999, Mann decided to take a few pictures Antonio Citterio of his studio, and it turned out to be the start of a 13-year project. “It began very casually and became sort of a labor of over 300 each piece exercises is manually launched the Kinesis love,” she says. “It never occurred to me that they would ever are included built in the in cesena, Personal, a wall- be published or exhibited.” But this fall, Remembered Light: companion italy. Cy Twombly in Lexington, a book of those photographs, app. mounted exercise UNTITLED (DRIPS AND NEWSPAPER),

will be published by Abrams in association with Gagosian , system, in collaboration Gallery, which will exhibit a selection of the images at its with Technogym. Since Madison Avenue location through October 29. The pictures t wo workers then Citterio has capture works in various stages of progress, tabletops piled oversee with materials, walls and floors splashed with paint. “Cy had fabrication designed four more from start these competing impulses between personal restraint and REMEMBERED LIGHT to finish. pieces for Technogym this feeling of Dionysian excess and celebration,” says Mann. and its founder and “In the earliest photographs, CEO, Nerio Alessandri, the studio was pristine. And by including the most the end you could barely walk through.” —Stephen Wallis the bench fe atures recent and final design, “bodyprint” padding. the Power Personal (left). PHOTOGRAPHIC MEMORY “This piece is truly a From top: Untitled (Drips and work of art,” Alessandri Newspaper), 1999, a Sally Mann photo of Cy Twombly’s studio; © SALLY MANN, COURTESY OF GAGOSIAN GALLERY; BARBARA CRAWFORD, COURTESY OF GAGOSIAN GALLERY; COURTESY OF TECHNOGYM (2); ERIC T. WHITE; JAKE JONES says. technogym.com Twombly and Mann, circa 2000. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SALLY MANN,

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accessories report DARK MATTERS Dramatic, inky tones are this fall’s daring option for watches. The pairing of a face and band in shades of black or gray lends sophistication, while the subtle elegance of deep hues allows these timepieces to seamlessly transition from day to night.

Facts & stats CHUMLEY’S Opened in the ’20s in New York City, Chumley’s was a literary speakeasy— Edna St. Vincent Millay and Eugene O’Neill were regulars—that evolved into a Greenwich Village staple until 2007, when a wall collapsed and forced it to close. This month, restaurateur Alessandro Borgognone reopens the beloved watering hole, with 21st-century touches that honor its storied past.

BEDFORD STREET Chumley’s address is believed to be an origin of the term 86’d, a code that Prohibition- era cops used to warn bartenders to 86 evacuate guests. PHOTOS in the new Chumley’s of the authors, firefightersand others who frequented the bar. 224

ESTIMATED NUMBER OF MOVIES filmed at the old Chumley’s, including Woody Allen’s 1930s-set Sweet and Lowdown (1999) and Warren Beatty’s 6 1981 epic, Reds. 2000 THE YEAR Chumley’s was designated a literary landmark.

HORSE STALLS in the stables that were outside the original building. The space now 4 holds two (human) bathrooms.

BAR STOOLS at the old Chumley’s, with seating for approximately 90 people. The renovated space fits nine stools and an additional 45 seats. 12 To learn more, visit netjets.com/onlynetjets HOUR UPON HOUR or call a Private Aviation Concierge at 1-877-JET-2908. Clockwise from top: Drive de Cartier, Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Master Chronometer, Ralph Lauren Sporting Classic Chronometer 45mm, Bell & Ross WW1-97 SQUARE FEET Heritage and Octo Finissimo by Bulgari. For details see Sources, page 150. in the original footprint; about 600 square feet was lost to ensure the new

1,800 F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO Chumley’s is up to code.

66 wsj. magazine NetJets is a Berkshire Hathaway company. Aircraft are managed and operated by NetJets Aviation, Inc. NetJets is a registered service mark. ©2016 NetJets IP, LLC. All rights reserved. what’s news

the inspiration BRIGHT PROSPECTS

Kibera, a district of Nairobi, Kenya, is one of the largest slums in Africa, thought to house up to a million people. But now a beacon of innovative architecture has appeared among its rusty metal roofs. Earlier this year, the dark, dilapidated home of the Kibera Hamlets School was replaced with a building by Spanish architecture FLAIR GAME firm SelgasCano—a multicolored frame sheathed in CLASS ACT translucent plastic panels, which bring in light by day and glow gently at night. For its first U.S. store, in NYC’s Above: Students The project began when the firm’s principals, José Selgas and Lucía Cano, visited Kibera two at the new Kibera Noho, the Milanese luxury Hamlets School in years ago; it was one of the “saddest days of my life,” says Selgas. He and Cano had been asked menswear label Boglioli has tapped Nairobi, Kenya. to design a summer pavilion for the grounds of Denmark’s Right: The school, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, north of Copenhagen. into its rich history as a purveyor of designed by Span- ish architecture The architects wondered: Why not create a building that classic Italian tailoring with a twist. firm SelgasCano, could also be put to good use at summer’s end? Creative director Davide Marello stands out among With the support of the museum, Selgas and Cano Kibera’s run-down teamed with Milan’s Dimore structures. worked with three of their former students, who had formed a firm called Helloeverything, and Kenyan archi- Studio to craft a retail concept tect AbdulFatah Adam to design a structure that would fit that echoes the brand’s supple, the site of the Kibera Hamlets School. When the pavilion’s stylish suiting: Concrete walls run in Denmark ended last fall, it was shipped to Kenya, where SelgasCano, Adam, Helloeverything and a group of and satin-polished steel shelves Kibera residents spent two months reconstructing it. signal understated elegance, while The building is more than just a school. As Adam notes, a painterly carpet and tobacco- “It gives the children an option to dream beyond the toned wood paneling lend a touch challenges of their surroundings.” And not just the kids. “Everyone wants to be there,” Selgas reports. “It’s bring- of industrial-age glamour. ing optimism to the neighborhood.” —Fred Bernstein —Sarah Medford

worth the trip MADE IN JAPAN

“COFFEE IS SEEN AS FAST AND DISPOSABLE,” says Japanese barista Eiichi Kunitomo, “but its proper place is alongside fine dining.” It

was this belief that led Kunitomo, who was formerly the barista at an BOGLIOLI; ADAM ROBB (3); © IWAN BANN (2) acclaimed Osaka restaurant, to found his wildly popular Tokyo cafe Omotesando Koffee in 2011. A modest spot on a quaint backstreet, Omotesando was where Kunitomo applied the fastidious traditions of Japanese tea ceremonies to iced lattes. The shop soon became a destination for an international clientele that included director Tim Burton and the team behind skatewear brand Supreme. It was so suc-

cessful that in 2012 Kunitomo set up a second Omotesando, in Kyoto, PASQUALETTI, COURTESY OF followed by another Tokyo place, Toranomon Koffee, in 2014. And earlier this year he launched the first international outpost of Omotesando, in Hong Kong. Last December, though, the original Omotesando closed when the modest residence that housed it was razed by municipal order. This month, in a new building at the same address, Kunitomo opens Koffee Mameya, which he sees as the next step in the evolution of Tokyo’s coffee culture. His staff will work like sommeliers, assessing each customer’s taste preferences to offer the most appropriate roasts and grinds. The rest of the time, they will be blending beans from premium Japanese producers and THE DAILY GRIND Clockwise from top right: Japanese traveling to coffee roasters across the globe, all in preparation for running their own Omotesando or coffee impresario Eiichi Kunitomo; a Toranomon Koffee barista practicing the pour-over method of coffee making; Mameya franchises, which Kunitomo plans to open around the world. “I want to raise a family of baris- single-serving vials of Japanese-roasted beans. tas,” he says, “to help them make a living doing what they love.” —Adam Robb CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: STEFANO

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sportin’ life GOAL ORIENTED England’s Premier League, home to the world’s most obsessively followed football clubs, is managed by a rotating roster of colorful—and quotable—coaches. Here, a rundown of the most-sought-after talents vying for victory on this season’s soccer pitch. —Ben Cohen manager josé pep antonio arsène claudio jürgen eddie mourinho guardiola conte wenger ranieri klopp howe (portuguese) (spanish) (italian) (french) (italian) (german) (english)

Manchester Manchester Leicester Chelsea Arsenal Liverpool Bournemouth

club United City City

7-to-2 21-to-10 6-to-1 6-to-1 33-to-1 15-to-2 1,000-to-1 win odds

ON THE

MOVE team logo

“WE’RE NOT ARMBAND people,” says Carly Beu- Disgruntled Presidential Investment Gym- George Clooney candidate banker teacher mel, founding partner of Joe Namath Menswear Brooklyn chic meets Satisfy, a new Paris-based model dad style Don Draper activewear line, “so we really started by building highly compressive elastic pockets to hold our phones.” Mop top Red tie Horn-rimmed glasses Puffy Both avid runners, Beumel The coat and unbuttoned Skinny tie Striped tie and her business partner, fitted collar jogger founder Brice Partouche, pants

decided in spring 2015 look signature to create a collection that would combine their He took He has given He has been He missed He often He was the a coaching a testimonial in his current the match describes his manager of respective technical and gap year in for a hair- job since 1996, that clinched team’s strategy Bournemouth ready-to-wear expertise New York. transplant longer than Leicester’s as “heavy before they (Beumel had developed company. almost every improbable title metal.” were promoted Premier League last year because to the Premier products for Nike, and Par- manager he was having League last touche launched cult denim He’s sponsored combined. lunch with his year. by Jaguar 96-year-old label April77). While the one thing to know and Hublot. mother. duo emphasizes their use of high-performance materials and constant product testing, many of their 76 days 365 days 108 days 457 days 113 days 2,555 days 635 days pieces—like thin cotton tops stint shortest with venting “moth holes,” inspired by old concert “Please don’t “Maybe we “My job is to “My team is like “I’m not a “At this T-shirts—display a coolness call me won’t win give people an orchestra. genius. I’m a moment [in arrogant, but every day. who work To play the totally normal 2014] I have that could easily translate I’m European But we hard all week symphony cor- guy. I came no desire to streetwear. Reflective champion and will try.” something rectly, I need from Black to manage prints and taping on seams I think I’m to enjoy on some of the Forest. I’m the a Premier a special one.” Saturdays and boom boom normal one.” League club.” simultaneously serve prac- quote Wednesdays.” boom, but also tical and aesthetic purposes. “I consider some tweet.” defeat to be “It’s equally led by fashion a state of and function,” Beumel says. virtual death.”

satisfysatisfy.com. —I.F.-S. FAR LEFT: COURTESY OF SATISFY (2); CHART, LEFT TO RIGHT, ALAMYTOP TO STOCKBOTTOM, PHOTO;FROM ELISABETHLOGOS: BURRELL/ALAMYPETER PROBST/ALAMY STOCKSTOCK IMAGES;PHOTOPHOTO; (6); BEN DARREN PA IMAGES/ALAMYHIDER/GETTY WALSH/CHELSEA STOCK IMAGES; FC/GETTY PHOTO; N/C; IMAGES;©NBC/COURTESYGREGG MARYANA OF DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE;EVERETTLYUBENKO/ALAMY STOCKCOLLECTION; PHOTO; JOHNZOONAR DIGIFOTO VAN GMBH/ALAMYHASSELT/CORBIS/GETTYRUBY/ALAMY IMAGES;STOCKSTOCK ATLASPIX/PHOTO;PHOTO; PA MICHAELIMAGES/ALAMY STOCKBURRELL/ALAMY PHOTO; PATRIK STOCK STOLLARZ/GETTYPHOTO; INTERFOTO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

72 wsj. magazine AGJEANS.COM AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED ADRIANO AG what’s news

trend report INTO THE BLUE SOUND EFFECTS Navy-on-navy kicks are fall’s version of Informed by its long history with naval the classic all-white traditions and inspired by the tolling sneaker. Monochro- of a ship’s bell, watchmaker Panerai matic dark-blue styles has created the Radiomir 1940 Minute in suede and leather Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT, offer a streamlined which chimes either local time or a look that can be kept second time zone at the press of a push- casual or worn with piece, set at the eight-o’clock position. a suit for a fresh take What’s more, the skeletonized dial on formality. improves acoustic quality and allows the wearer to observe the complex MOOD INDIGO internal movement that creates the Clockwise from bottom: Lanvin, Greats, Camper, melodic tones. Available by special order, Ermenegildo Zegna Cou- price upon request; 212-223-1562. ture, Feit, Kenneth Cole and Tod’s. For details —I.F.-S. see Sources, page 150.

creative brief Trying to settle on a job title for Virgil Abloh is a fool’s errand. There is his Milan-based fashion MULTITASK label, Off-White, his 13 years as Kanye West’s collaborator, his DJ career and his recordings for music label Bromance. Later this year, the 35-year-old Chicago native introduces his first furniture FORCE collection, including a gridded chair, bench and table. “A lot of references within Off-White are construction-based,” says Abloh, such as black-and-white stripes that evoke hazard lines. The furniture, which will be sold via New York’s Johnson Trading Gallery, was inspired by modernist legend Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s take on the metal grid. “It’s this idea of freezing in-between states,” says Abloh, who has degrees in civil engineering and architecture. ( He’s not the only current fashion designer to cross disciplines: Rick Owens has a furniture line, and Raf Simons has worked with textile company Kvadrat .) As for West, a mutual friend introduced him and Abloh in 2002, and they soon collaborated on tour merchandise. Abloh would eventually become West’s creative director. “Kanye hired an architect because he was like, I’m going to hire someone who can add more—something that’s not just seen as hip-hop,” says Abloh. In 2012, he became creative director of DONDA, West’s design agency. That same year came Abloh’s first foray into clothing design, with a film project, Pyrex Vision, for which he created streetwear. In 2013, he launched Off-White as a full-fledged brand, which shows each season in Paris. Fans include Drake, Beyoncé and Rihanna. “I’m trying to unveil open space that hasn’t been INTERIOR LIFE Above: Off-White creative tackled in fashion,” says Abloh, who was a finalist for the LVMH Prize director Virgil Abloh. Right: for Young Fashion Designers in 2015. “I’m influenced by the definition A rendering of a table from his upcoming furniture collection. of architect as a designer of all things.” —Scott Christian CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF PANERAI; F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO (SNEAKERS); COURTESY OF OFF-WHITE; FABIEN MONTIQUE, COURTESY OF OFF-WHITE

74 wsj. magazine Amazon. The JoeRogan Experience . 76 news what’s They have those? 23,527. Lately, The Kills, “HeartofaDog.” Probably Twitter orInstagram. Less thanyou Abouta mightthink. Most-listened-to artist Favorite podcast Favorite food/restaurant-related app Favorite shoppingapp First appchecked inthemorning/last Number ofunread emails Number ofcontacts inphone hundred. before bedtime homescreen: photo photo h m instagram instagram t n siri user? a Long Bay, a Long Fa Vietnam. i ost-used weet nkwe o. ne o. Vorite Vorite app: FiLter: Bot. Bot. V LL er. .

The celebrity chef,Bourdain: author of best-selling host CNN’s and Anthony Parts show’s the Unknown month not is onlylaunching this season eighth Here, professional the globe-trotter reveals what’s phone. on his ANTHONY BOURDAIN ANTHONY down the but also publishing Appetites publishing but also Vietnam; Rome. about $25. and favorite show clock app West 30th Street to theUpper East Cities listed inweather appandworld From Renzo Gracie Academy on Belo Horizonte, Brazil;Belo Hue, Beirut; Nashville, Tennessee; Charleston, Mai, Thailand; Hanoi,Vietnam; New York; Chengdu, China;Chiang Netflix. Uber. Flight Tracker. GoogleMaps. iTunes. Netflix. I try Itry Netflix. to keepupwithArcher. Side ofManhattan (home).Itcost South Carolina; San Francisco; Most-watched entertainment app Most-recent Uber ride Most-essential appswhiletraveling L oad

, his first cookbook in October.in cookbook 10 first years, , his A karaoke clubinSeoul,SouthKorea. @danaherjohn (John Danaher, grappling daughter loves it. (by David McMillanofMontreal’s bril- and jujitsu guru). Also@joebeefmtl The ListApp(li.st). Grand Theft Auto: Vice City. Butmy Game you really wishyou could delete Craziest place you everyour left phone My daughter. None. Though Ikeepupwithjujitsu forums onReddit. liant Joe Beefrestaurant). Favorite Instagram feed Person you FaceTime mostoften Most-surprising appyou dependon Favorite fitness/workout app Always early—6 a.m.,wherever Iam.

Alarm settings dent Obamainafamily-run restaurant was ashotofanIn-N-Outburger. to thinkI’mlosingmy mindIwillusea Don’t usethem.ButifIwant my friends Not telling. But itwas pretty funny. Me having bunchaandbeerwithPresi- I thinktheword anal was involved. Standard. Ihate novelty ringtones. Strangest auto-correct mishap Favorite emoji Funniest text message oftheweek in Hanoi.The previous record holder Most-liked photo inyour Instagram feed Favorite ringtone anda . Pier 57. Pier Manhattan’s on hall, food international amega Market, Bourdain open to cuisine, is planning and restaurants best the find to world the around traveling for famous 2019, Bourdain, In PLAN DATA work pretty work pretty c protecti LL she seems to ase: ase: a wsj. magazine spigen spigen we i LL that

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ILLUSTRATION BY ALESSANDRA OLANOW what’s news

Booming interest in contemporary, handmade furniture has turned talented artisans into design stars whose work is sought after by a new generation of collectors. Here, three leading craftsmen—Christopher Kurtz, Brian Thoreen and Ian Stell—talk inspiration, music to work by and more. —Sarah Medford with wsj.

1 6. What’s your favorite cooking ingredient? Fiddlehead ferns were just in season. I look forward to them each year.

7. What’s your favorite hotel? Nick’s Cove coastal cottages on Tomales 2 Bay, California. 6 8. What was the first piece you designed? The first piece I would consider one of my designs, as distinct from my work in sculpture, is the “quarter round” chair from 2008, based on a split-leg lathe- turning technique. The leg profile drove the design of the rest of the piece, making soft radiuses on all the surfaces that contact the body while keeping a clean, flush profile on the exterior of the chair. This design also initiated my ongoing explora- tion of the interior surfaces, or sliced sections, of wooden forms. I continue to CHRISTOPHER take commissions on these designs to this day.

KURTZ 9. What’s an object you would like to Kingston, new YorK design? 3 4 A kite. So much of my work suggests flight Among the creative community of New and aspires to lift off. I’d like to explore York’s Hudson Valley, where he’s based, that quite literally. Besides, kites are so beautiful. Christopher Kurtz is considered something of a woodworking shaman. The 1. What tool is key to your practice? I am very tool dependent, so there are 40-year-old artist and designer has many that are essential. But if I had to pick 7 crafted hundreds of pieces by hand, from one it would be a Lie-Nielsen low-angle 5 Shaker-simple armchairs to a nine-legged block plane. table to basswood sculptures with limbs sanded knitting-needle thin. Kurtz spent 2. What vehicle do you rely on? Primarily a black Chevy Silverado work six years assisting the artist Martin truck, but for fun I drive a 1962 Chevrolet Puryear—whose practice is rooted in Impala sport sedan [like above], which is a traditional craftsmanship—before classic in American design. setting up his own studio in 2008. Though 3. What’s your most recent design his pieces are now sold through the discovery? galleries Chamber and Fair in New York This work is well known at this point, but City and Hedge in San Francisco, the I’m mad for Michael Anastassiades’s IC Kansas City native is still adjusting to his lighting for Flos. The collection is so aus- 8 tere and playful at the same time. success. “I once thought that to be a 9 designer you had to have a company like 4. What are your three travel Herman Miller or Vitra behind you,” essentials? Kurtz says. “But after 9/11, people were I pride myself on traveling light. I have it longing for something authentic. Working pared down to two: a pocket comb and a toothbrush. from my barn was a way into the market.” He is now developing sculptures in 5. What book or author inspires you? bronze, but wood remains his first love. “I Children of the Days, by Eduardo Galeano. do everything at the bench and respond

to the forms as they happen,” he says. > KIRSTIE TWEED (PORTRAIT); CLOCKWISE FROM TOP ARGAST;LEFT: COURTESY© D. OF DUBOIS, FLOS; LIE-NIELSEN© 2016 TOOLWORKS; GENERALDESIGN PICS MOTORSINC./ALAMY; COURTESYLLC., USED OF WITH NATION BOOKS; PERMISSION, VAL ATKINSON;GM MEDIASSPL/GETTY IMAGES;ARCHIVE; PATRIK OLEKSANDR KOVALCHUK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; LUCIE LANG/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

78 wsj. magazine what’s news

1. What was the first piece 2 you designed? I would say that everything I designed and built from an early age was just learning and experimenting and that the Mixed Marble Coffee Table [2015] was my first mature design—the first 2 piece that I felt was whole.

2. What’s a material you’re excited about right now? Probably rubber, which I used in the pieces I made for Mark Haddawy and the new Resurrection Vintage store in New York.

3. What’s your favorite dish to cook? BRIAN Carne asada. 4. What are your three 5. What project would travel essentials? you characterize as your THOREEN Handcuffs, passport, secu- Los angeLes breakout moment? rity blanket. I sang an incredible rendi- While still in high school, Brian Thoreen, tion of “Body Talk” by Imagination last Thursday. 37, became fascinated by art and artists, I can really feel the stars and after graduation, he worked as a aligning after that per- studio assistant in his hometown of Los formance! Also, showing 3 Angeles. He eventually tried his hand at my work [including the Torpedo Chandelier, left] in environmental design and fashion, going 5 NYC in 2015. CHRIS SHINTANI, SHINTANI PHOTOGRAPHY (PORTRAIT); STOCKCLOCKWISE PHOTO; ALEXANDERFROM TOP LEFT:THOMPSON; LATHAMCOURTESY OF & BRIANHOLMES/ALAMY PHOTO; THOREEN;PHOTO MIRO STOCK BILDARCHIVNOVAK/ALAMY BURRELL/ALAMY STOCK MONHEIMMICHAEL PHOTO; PHOTO; GMBH/ALAMYLOTHARSTOCK STOCKM. PETER/ULLSTEINHOFACKER/ALAMY BILD/GETTY IMAGES; DON MILLER; BRENT to school for both, and got a job in the fabrication shop of architects Marmol Radziner. It was only a few years ago that he took up furniture making, but this nonlinear path has clearly benefited his work. “My philosophy comes out of all those people and experiences—so does a system of trial and error,” says the designer. At New York’s Collective Design fair in 2015, Thoreen debuted a marble 4 and brass coffee table that appears both airy and immovable. Its success has 8 spawned private commissions as well as larger-scale interior and installation work. This past spring, the designer outfitted the new Manhattan location of fashion boutique Resurrection Vintage with sculptural brass shelving and desks of sensual black rubber. For Thoreen, the high point of the project was collaborat- 6 ing with Mark Haddawy, Resurrection’s multitalented co-founder, who also 6. What’s your most recent design restores important midcentury homes. discovery? This year I went to visit Le Corbusier’s Notre “I’ve always thrived on working with 7 Dame du Haut [in Ronchamp, France] and creative people,” he says. > was really taken aback. We have all seen it in images for years and studied it, but to see it in person and experience its intuitive nature and honest textures is quite special. 1 7. What’s an object you wish you had designed? The wheel.

8. Who is your design icon? Architect Peter Zumthor [who designed Germany’s Bruder Klaus Field Chapel, left], for his clarity of vision.

80 wsj. magazine what’s news

1. What was the first piece you designed? 2 It was a drafting table that hung from underneath the loft bed my dad built for me. The pitch was adjustable by means of an array of pulleys and rope. I was 9.

2. What’s your signature project to date? In the U.S. I’m probably best known for the Pantograph series [right], and in Europe the intersecting staircase called Diagint.

3. What’s your favorite design store? 3 Limited Stock in Zurich: a charming curation on a 5. What’s something you keep in your studio for charming street. inspiration? A little book called A Dictionary of Color Combinations, 4. What item do you find IAN STELL by Sanzo Wada. new YorK CitY expensive but worth it? I have a pathological weak- 6. Who is your design icon? ness for Common Projects It’s easy to start puzzling over the Artist Richard Artschwager [who created Yes/No Achilles sneakers. inventions of Ian Stell, 49, and end up Ball (1974) and Exclamation Point (1980), below]. The mesmerized. The designer is a combina- same seemingly mundane cast of characters popu- tion Rube Goldberg and Jony Ive, building lated his work for his entire career, yet he managed to

get them to speak with such eloquence and precision. ROB HOWARD (PORTRAIT); CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CLEMENSPOMERANTZ/NEW KOIS; LIMITED YORK STOCKPOST ARCHIVES/©ZURICH; ARTYNYP HOLDINGS STOCKINC./GETTY PHOTO; IMAGES;DM ANTONSMITH; ZOONARSTARIKOV/ALAMY GMBH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY HERAOF IANFOOD/ALAMY STOCKSTELL; COURTESYPHOTO; OF COMMON PROJECTS; COURTESY OF SEIGENSHA ART PUBLISHING beautiful, wildly complex tables and chairs that call into question even the 4 5 basic definitions of such furniture. For 6 instance, his Femten seat (U.S. Patent Number 8,197,008), made of plywood and 3-D-printed plastic, can be flipped inside out; his steel and aluminum Diagint staircase, now on view at Spree Studios in Berlin, provides four-way circulation in an elegant X-shape form. The Manhat- tan-born, Brooklyn-based Stell studied painting and engineering alongside furni- 7 ture design, and had childhood training in classical choral music. “Designing is very much like composing,” he says. “I know the process of building something up from constituent parts.” He gestates ideas, often for years, before refining them manually and digitally. “My works can have up to 1,000 pieces,” he explains. “I may shape 1 them with drawing, but CAD allows me to move through and around them. I’m not a purist at all.” He’s putting together work for a show next year at New York’s Patrick 8 Parrish gallery, including a piece that takes Mart Stam’s 1926 cantilever seating as a point of departure. “It’s the quintes- sential 20th-century chair design,” says Stell. “But this will be a new direction.” • 7. What are your favorite cooking ingredients? Thyme, white raisins, almonds.

8. What project would you characterize as your breakout moment? A lot of my ideas have been germinating for quite some time—sort of like slow-growing fruitwood. The breakout moment was when I was finally able to fabricate and realize some of these things. I 1 think that the building of the reversible chair, Femten, was the point when I felt up to the task.

9. What bands are you listening to these days? 9 Roomful of Teeth and Tune-Yards.

82 wsj. magazine fashion & design forecast MARKET REPORT. september 2016

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SCHOOL SWEATER Test the boundaries in an oversize patchwork knit. Raf Simons SUMMA CUM LAUDE sweater, shirt and scarf Dreamy days on or off and Ermenegildo Zegna campus call for a toggle Couture pants and coat. Right: Burberry shoes. Models, Hamid coat, track jacket (worn Onifade at Red NYC, underneath) and pants, Joey Greenstein at Soul Hilfiger Edition turtleneck Artist Management, and arm warmers, Hermès Philip Laskaris at Click sneakers and Maison Model Management and Kitsuné hat (in hand). Westley Moore at One Above: Prada sweater, Management; grooming, Sunspel shirt, Carven coat Charles McNair. For (under arm) and Coach details see Sources, 1941 pants. page 150.

90 wsj. magazine

leading the conversation the exchange. september 2016

THE THINKER Hans Ulrich Obrist in his office at the www.brunellocucinelli.com www.brunellocucinelli.com Serpentine Galleries in London. The artwork is by Douglas Coupland.

Tracked HANS ULRICH OBRIST After 25 years in the art world, the Serpentine Galleries’ artistic director is more prolific than ever.

BY HARRIET QUICK PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBBIE LAWRENCE

HE MIND OF SWISS curator Hans Ulrich He uses his frequent bucolic walks between the two brought Obrist to the Serpentine Galleries as her Obrist twists and turns as he threads Serpentine galleries, on either side of Serpentine co-director (she recently stepped down and the together observations, theories and Lake, to squeeze in numerous phone calls. institution named trustee Yana Peel as CEO). opinions into an infinite web. “I believe Obrist developed his obsession with art as a Throughout his career, Obrist has always taken Tin embracing chance in the process—serendipi- teenager in Zurich, collecting postcards from positions created specifically for him, rather than tous moments happen every day,” he says. Obrist, galleries and museums and politely imploring art- applying for preset jobs. And his engagement with 48, is the artistic director of London’s Serpentine ists he admired, like duo Peter Fischli and David the art world extends beyond the exhibition hall. Galleries, and true to his word, he always leaves Weiss, to let him visit their studios. After study- Since 1996, for example, he has amassed an estimated time in his packed schedule for drop-in meetings. ing social science and economics at the University 2,700 hours of recorded interviews with creative leg- On this particular blustery day in June, unplanned of St. Gallen, he made his official foray into the art ends like Zaha Hadid and Gerhard Richter. Ever visits from American neurologist Israel Rosenfield world in 1991 with a show staged in the kitchen of questioning, he continues to push the boundaries of and Italian architect Stefano Boeri are interspersed his student apartment. It caught the attention of the his role. “The term curator has become overused,” he between meetings about upcoming exhibits on inter- Fondation Cartier in Paris, which gave him a fellow- says. “I prefer the German word Ausstellungsmacher disciplinary artists Marc Camille Chaimowicz and ship; that in turn led the Musée d’Art Moderne de (“maker of exhibitions”) or [J.G.] Ballard’s notion of Helen Marten and the annual Serpentine Marathon, la Ville de Paris to offer him the position of “head ‘junction maker ’—making connections between We love Codices, the ancient messengers of Art and Culture. a two-day creative symposium held every October. of migratory curation.” In 2006, Julia Peyton-Jones objects, non-objects and people.” >

wsj. magazine 93 Illuminated page from “Pantheon” by Godfrey of Viterbo, Italy, 1331 The exchange Tracked

12:00 p.m. 52 Obrist in conversation weekends a year with poet Robert Grenier. The amount of time Obrist regularly spends away from London. 32 , 2 40 shows The number of art exhibits Obrist estimates he has attended in his lifetime. 3 quotes The tally of phrases and fragments, written mostly on sticky notes, the curator 12:50 p.m. photographs and posts to his Instagram Obrist crosses the bridge nearly every day. on his way to a meeting at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery. He makes this 10-minute journey at least three times a day. 320 9:45 a.m. exhibitions Air - Rafale Dassault Aviation © Sirpa Observing construction of the The number of shows Obrist has staged, 2016 Serpentine Pavilion by including his first, a group presentation in Danish architect Bjarke Ingels. the kitchen of his student apartment in 1991. Obrist is involved in the Pavilion selection and creation each year. 1 night assistant The person Obrist employs to handle his correspondence overnight. “It means I can wake up more or less rested,” he says.

1:50 p.m. 40,000 The route back books to Obrist’s office The number of volumes Obrist owns after lunch. 1:00 p.m. between his homes in London and Berlin. Obrist meets with his He orders at least one a day. staff at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery’s restaurant, The Magazine. 2,700 hours 8:00 p.m. The total duration of the interviews Obrist Obrist hosts a poetry reading in collaboration has recorded to date. He has published with poet Vincent Katz, son of the artist. 40 volumes of these conversations. 12,000 email addresses The number saved in Obrist’s contacts.

6:15 p.m. 40 Artist Alex Katz at Quick Light, countries an exhibition of his work at The global stops of Obrist’s ongoing the Serpentine. exhibition Do It, which has been running since 1994.•

94 wsj. magazine BR 03 AEROGT CHRONOGRAPH · Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com the exchange

with Elizabeth David or M.F.K. Fisher,” Dunn says, “where the author comes through, and you feel like you’re in the room with a person.” Dunn also works as a bartender at Tarlow’s Fort Greene trattoria, Roman’s, and as the editor in chief of Diner Journal, a publication with articles, original art and seasonal recipes that they’ve independently published since 2006. The book’s recipes are intended for celebra- tory occasions, like the parties Tarlow throws for big groups at the Fort Greene townhouse he shares with his wife, Kate Huling, 38, and their four children. Each chapter (save one dedicated to caviar and cocktails) features a complete meal, like the 15-person feast centered around a leg of lamb roasted with garlic, potatoes and anchovy filets, modeled after the one Tarlow makes every year for his son Elijah’s birthday. A few other recipes have roots in Tarlow’s restaurants, such as the cassoulet that Diner’s original chef, Caroline Fidanza, now propri- etor of her own Williamsburg eatery, Saltie, cooked on the restaurant’s opening night or the Italian- inspired New Year’s feast conceived by Roman’s chef, Dave Gould, another of Tarlow’s many collaborators. In essence, the book conveys an artful and hos- RECIPE FOR pitable style of entertaining that’s been dear to SUCCESS Clockwise from right: Tarlow since his childhood in suburban Long Island. The Wythe Hotel, There, his British grandmother and his Viennese which Tarlow opened grandfather, frequent patrons of New York City in 2012; a goose WHAT’S COOKING dish from Dinner at BOOK SMART Restaurateur, hotelier and institutions like the 21 Club and the Four Seasons, the Long Table; the Above: Tarlow’s first author Andrew Tarlow, at home would throw generous dinner parties, cooking elabo- dining room at Diner, cookbook, Dinner at the Long in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. rate spreads from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of in Williamsburg, Table, co-authored with Anna Brooklyn. Dunn, comes out this month. French Cooking and Gourmet magazine. “I remember making baked fish in puff pastry,” Tarlow recalls. “Shaping the dough like the fish’s scales.” food network Despite participating in such formalities at his convinced the owner of his loft to help out. Tarlow’s At the beginning, the food had to be low cost. Since grandparents’ house, Tarlow found his way into been paying him rent ever since. Diner couldn’t purchase premium cuts of meat or fish, the restaurant business in a more casual man- “Andrew and Mark opened Diner because they they developed their palate around a sense of frugal- TABLE TALK ner. He moved into a ramshackle industrial loft in wanted a place to eat and hang out, not because they ity. Now, even though they can afford finer ingredients, Williamsburg in 1993, after graduating from the wanted to own a restaurant,” Kate Huling writes that same ethos echoes across all of the restaurants. Over the past two decades, restaurateur and hotelier Andrew Tarlow built an empire that helped redefine University of Arizona with a B.F.A. in painting, in the book’s introduction. That DIY spirit helped By understanding how to make the most of a fledgling dining beyond his Brooklyn borough. The latest example: his first cookbook, out this month. and planned to become an artist. (He still paints, attract like-minded chefs who would form the back- budget, Tarlow was years ahead of the curve of cook- describing his work as “a little bit figurative, with bone of Diner and eventually a group of restaurants. ing whole animals and appreciating a wider array of a naive abstraction to it.”) While working as a Early adopters like Gould and Rembold have gone protein. “Andrew has this sense of what’s timeless, BY HOWIE KAHN PORTRAIT BY JESSE CHEHAK bartender at the Odeon in Tribeca, on to open other establishments whether it’s a look or an approach to food,” Dunn says. Tarlow realized that his Brooklyn “andrew with Tarlow. Rembold says Tarlow’s “And I think that’s what people are still responding to.” neighborhood begged for a canteen. kitchens are “places great chefs go This summer, Huling and Tarlow opened Marlow ’VE BEEN WRITING this book, in a sense, for 20 narrative of what it means to eat well in New York “The people help create the aesthetic, too,” says At that time, the Williamsburg of has this to recover from the strains and atti- Goods, a boutique selling Huling’s line of leather years,” says Andrew Tarlow, the 46-year-old City. He not only helped bring the craft cuisine move- Sean Rembold, once a chef at Marlow & Sons and now condo developments, hipster hang- sense of tudes of conventional dining, where accessories, clothing and homeware, and, occasion- Brooklyn-based restaurateur, hotelier and now ment to Brooklyn, but also instituted a dining style the executive chef at Reynard, the restaurant inside outs and reputable restaurants was what’s serious food can still be made but ally, Tarlow’s paintings, in Manhattan’s East Village. author. During a recent lunch at Diner, the iconic for the borough, one that’s progressive yet comfort- Williamsburg’s Wythe Hotel, which Tarlow opened in still years away. “There was no public timeless.” without the pretense.” It marks the first time they have branched out of ISouth Williamsburg eatery he opened in a renovated able in both its dishes and design. 2012. “There’s been so many artists, writers and musi- life, no center,” Tarlow recalls. Caroline Fidanza set Diner’s menu Brooklyn. “I’ve always tried to open my businesses Pullman dining car on New Year’s Eve in 1998, Tarlow Marlow & Sons, which opened in 2004 as a bar cians over the years—it’s like their cafeteria,” Rembold So, Tarlow and his then roommate, –anna dunn into motion. Having worked at Savoy, within a bike ride from home,” Tarlow says. “But discusses his new volume, Dinner at the Long Table. to accommodate overflow from neighboring Diner, says of Diner and Marlow & Sons. “LCD Soundsystem Mark Firth, a bartender at Manhattan’s the pioneering farm-to-table spot in now that I can see my 4-year-old will want nothing “It’s not really a restaurant cookbook,” says Tarlow, evolved into a restaurant and still offers one of the would come in after their shows, and we’d all just eat, Balthazar, went about building the restaurant they SoHo, Fidanza joined Tarlow’s team at the onset, in to do with me in four years, I’m thinking about really who chose to focus on the seasonal, family-style city’s best roast chicken preparations—cooked under drink and dance until four in the morning.” wanted to patronize: a simple space where they would 1998, and immediately instituted the type of eating changing those boundaries.” menus that are a tradition in his own home rather a brick, in cast iron (now a much-imitated technique)— The 336-page book Tarlow will publish with Ten eat eggs and cheese sandwiches and play board games that helped this intended hangout transform into a International offers have come up, too. “Someone than solely on recipes from his slate of establish- in a clubhouse-like atmosphere that’s been abuzz for Speed Press this month operates with the same with their artist friends. When an unexpected piece discerning destination for dinner. Diner’s first menu from Japan was like, ‘Let’s put a Wythe Hotel in my ments. “It’s an attempt to tell a new kind of story.” over a decade. Tarlow, who designs all of his restau- sense of celebration. For his restaurants, Tarlow of real estate became available in the neighborhood, offered a grass-fed burger (still available), but on office building, between floors 54 and 74.’ I said that Starting with Diner and continuing with each rants, made its wooden furniture, just as he later made has provided money to farmers who raise lambs a 1920s dining car on the corner of Broadway and opening night Fidanza served a cassoulet that takes doesn’t really work for me,” Tarlow recalls, nodding subsequent restaurant—his portfolio now includes the stools for Greenpoint’s Achilles Heel, which he and goats; that earnestness is apparent in Dinner Berry, Tarlow wanted to purchase it, but he didn’t days to make. “Understate but overdeliver,” says at a galley of his book, which opens with a five-page six places to have a meal, plus She Wolf, an artisanal opened as a bar in 2013 and later elevated by bringing at the Long Table, too. Anna Dunn, 36, Tarlow’s co- have enough money and couldn’t get a loan. “Nobody Rembold, who, along with Gould, ultimately took poem that took him and Dunn three years to write. bakery; Marlow & Daughters, a whole-animal butcher chef Lee Desrosiers (formerly of Diner, Marlow & Sons author, says their book is personal and intimate. “It thought that me opening a restaurant was a good idea over for Fidanza in the Diner kitchen. “That became “There’s so much talent within the company,” he says. shop; and the Wythe Hotel—Tarlow has changed the and San Francisco’s Bar Tartine) into the kitchen. uses food to speak to a larger human condition, like CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: NIKOLE HERRIOTT AND MICHAEL GRAYDON; MEL BARLOW; F. MARTIN RAMIN; JIMI BILLINGSLEY at all,” he says. Not willing to abandon the idea, he a mantra for us.” “The next idea will definitely come from here.”•

96 wsj. magazine the exchange

Study in deSign ERE YOU GO,” says Campbell Carey, the suit. Recently brands began seek- PATTERN RECOGNITION uniform has changed; it doesn’t follow the recently appointed creative director at ing alternative income streams, It can take 11 artisans up to same rules anymore.” 80 hours to make one suit, Huntsman, a 167-year-old tailoring house resulting in the rise of fashion- with several fittings. Prices Located between Norton and Gieves & HELLO, TAILOR on London’s Savile Row, who has been root- influenced ready-to-wear pieces on Savile Row often start at Hawkes on the Row is Hardy Amies, named Hing around in his store. He emerges holding a jacket. available from Savile Row tai- $6,500. Left: The Huntsman after its founder, a writer, designer, soldier shop, where clients’ paper Savile Row has long been the bastion of bespoke British tailoring. “This was the Earl of Cawdor’s,” he says, searching lors, a trend that would have been suit patterns are kept. and dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II. Its Now these designers are bringing it into the future. for the date in the inside pocket, “from 1925.” A hand- unthinkable not long ago. Below: A tailor stitches a new head of design is Darren Barrowcliff, some, single-breasted tweed—a little tired, perhaps, Gieves & Hawkes sits at seam at Hardy Amies. 32, who moved to London in 2007 to work in but still eminently wearable—it’s an illustration of 1 Savile Row. A bespoke tailor with fashion before joining Hardy Amies as senior BY PAUL CROUGHTON PHOTOGRAPHY BY NACHO ALEGRE what the Row, as it’s sometimes known, has always three British royal warrants, it designer in 2013. (The company stood for: handmade British tailoring designed to has dressed statesmen (Mikhail was acquired by Hong Kong–based outlast trend and fad. Gorbachev and David Cameron), financier William Fung in 2008.) Yet change is afoot: Carey, 42, is just one of a col- princes (Charles, William and “Whether people admit it or lection of talents driving some of Savile Row’s most Harry) and pop icons (Michael not, there’s a very niche mar- venerated brands into the future. Gieves & Hawkes Jackson’s tailcoat from his 1988 ket for bespoke tailoring,” says this year promoted head of design Mark Frost to Bad tour is displayed in a glass Barrowcliff, sitting in the same design director, Detroit native Darren Barrowcliff cabinet). It traces its ancestry back room at 14 Savile Row in which is now heading Hardy Amies, and designer Patrick to a cap-making business founded Amies once dressed the queen. Grant has been injecting once-ailing Norton & Sons by Thomas Hawkes in 1771 and has Barrowcliff finds inspiration in the with vitality since acquiring it just over a decade ago. established a reputation for refined worlds of skateboarding, hip-hop Together, their mission is to guide these traditional fabrics, meticulous stitchwork and and techno, and he often wears operations into the modern era of retail. strong silhouettes influenced by ensembles such as a black two-piece STREET SMART Savile Row itself is a 300-yard-long strip sand- military uniforms. Gieves & Hawkes has a history The Row, as it is called, suit with a T-shirt, patent shoes and wiched between the hustle of Regent Street, one of of leading the way in ready-to-wear dating back to generates $25 million worth gold jewelry—“My bling,” he says. London’s busiest retail thoroughfares to the east, and 1928. It has expanded to 88 stores, with 81 in Asia, of tailored clothing a year. His ready-to-wear collections are the glitz of New Bond Street’s designer boutiques just and is now owned by the Hong Kong–based company also shown during fashion week to the west. But it was little more than fields in 1733, Trinity Limited, which acquired the brand in 2012. and are available in a separate store when Richard Boyle, the third Earl of Burlington, Ready-to-wear accounts for up to 75 percent of the at 8 Savile Row. On offer are brown began overseeing the creation of a new set of build- company’s turnover, and the collection is presented overcoats, knits and suiting with ings, naming it after his wife, Lady Dorothy Savile. It during London’s men’s fashion week. “We sell more slightly cropped jackets. “We’re about new things, became the hallowed home of bespoke British tailor- blazers than suits in mainland China,” says execu- not old,” says Barrowcliff. “A younger-spirited guy ing, its legacy immense and occasionally unexpected. tive vice president Ray Clacher. (Ready-to-wear will find something in a more modern silhouette from The dinner jacket, aka tuxedo, was first created here jackets begin at $785, while a bespoke suit costs us.” Prices are also more accessible: A navy two-piece in 1865 by Henry Poole & Co., but so too was a ver- around $6,500.) starts at $795, compared to over $5,000 for bespoke. sion of a life jacket, an inflatable waistcoat—by James This year, in his new position as design director, Back at Huntsman’s headquarters, paper suit pat- Gieve during World War I. The Savile Row Bespoke Mark Frost, 31, would also like to terns hang from the ceiling like an art installation. Association says that its members produce some entice clients to return to person- Established in 1849 and bought by hedge fund man- $25 million worth of garments a year. To qualify as alized tailoring. “I want to bring ager Pierre Lagrange in 2013, Huntsman once dressed truly bespoke, according to the association’s strict an eccentricity back. We’ve been King Edward VII, Sir Winston guidelines, a suit must be handmade to the exact mea- very measured, but now we can Churchill and Gregory Peck, who surements of individual clients, down to the “hand-cut allow customers free range,” he owned over 160 items. Bespoke and shaped” shoulder pads, which often requires at says, sporting a blue wool, silk continues to be the focus, with suits least two fittings. (This is unlike “made-to-measure” and linen–blend suit with trou- costing upward of $6,500 made offerings from luxury menswear labels, where clients sers cut rakishly a good inch above in the equestrian-inspired “house can choose from a fixed range of fabrics, buttons and the ankle. “Every so often you see cut” featuring a one-button, high- trims. Those suits are made in set proportions and something that wows you, bright waisted jacket. (Current clients tweaked to fit a client in a single fitting.) pink corduroys or a jacket with include Brad Pitt, Colin Firth and Everything is up to individual choice. “It can be special braiding.” fashion designer Marc Jacobs.) The tough for a customer,” Carey says. “They are coming At 16 Savile Row, Patrick Grant, ready-to-wear options in fabrics in spending around $6,500 for a suit and looking at a 44, is relaxing on a sofa. While earn- like colorful tweeds are attracting bit of cloth, thinking, Will that work?” ing an MBA from Oxford University, clients in their 30s, despite prices For that reason, perhaps, it has been said that he bought the heritage tailors of around $3,000 for a suit. “Guys Savile Row’s history is that of dressing men in the Norton & Sons a decade ago when are more educated; they know same way it dressed their fathers. Yet Savile Row’s sales were in decline. It has since more about clothes now and have COMPANY MEN future likely depends on its success in doing the doubled its revenue and attracted a vastly larger number of options,” The next generation on Savile Row includes, opposite, as working wardrobes become increas- clients like the late Alexander Carey says. from left: Patrick Grant, ingly less formal, and more and more men buy McQueen in the process. (Grant also owns the London- IN UNIFORM “People will always come to owner of Norton & ready-to-wear suiting. The globalization of modern based men’s ready-to-wear brand E. Tautz.) Founded Above: Personalized Savile Row to buy things they Sons; Campbell Carey, business requires a wardrobe that travels easily, and in 1821 by Walter Norton, it makes suits solely to collars at Norton can’t find anywhere else,” adds creative director of & Sons. Right: Huntsman; Mark Frost, the traditional two-piece is being replaced by softer order, creating only a few hundred per year at $5,500 Parade-ready Frost. “As the suit becomes less design director of Gieves blazers worn with unmatched trousers. There’s also each. The Norton & Sons “house cut” has “a bit of sup- ensembles at Gieves important in business, I hope peo- & Hawkes; and Darren the problem of escalating rent at this much-sought- pression [at the waist], a high armhole and slim sleeve & Hawkes, which has ple see it as a luxury item—a way Barrowcliff, head of dressed everyone design of Hardy Amies. after address. And the fact that it can take up to 11 and a very natural shoulder,” Grant explains, adding from Prince Charles of expressing themselves rather people between 60 to 80 hours to cut and sew one that he is tinkering with an unstructured jacket. “The to David Beckham. than conforming.” •

98 wSj. magazine Special Advertising Feature Special Advertising Feature

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SAS_cadillac_vf.indd All Pages 8/4/16 12:54 PM FORCES OF NATURE

One of Congo’s endangered gorillas. Rangers in Virunga National Park are working to protect the animals from an encroaching human population and other threats. PARK & RESTORATION

Ravaged by civil war, eastern Congo was for many years a no-go zone. Now Virunga National Park’s team of rangers is helping to maintain security, bringing an influx of visitors—and hope for the area’s endangered population of gorillas.

BY TOM DOWNEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMIE HAWKESWORTH

105 UNDER THE VOLCANO Virunga National Park in eastern Congo encompasses 3,000 square miles, six volcanoes (two of which are still active) and roughly 40 percent of all the endangered mountain gorillas on earth. Left: A Congolese boy. Above: At the summit of Mount Nyiragongo, the world’s largest lava lake. Previous pages: A silverback male gorilla near Bukima Tented Camp (left); a man on the shore of Tchegera Island, with Mount Nyiragongo in the background. NATURAL WONDER “The park is an incredible opportunity to strengthen the state and bring stability to the region,” says Virunga’s chief warden, Emmanuel de Merode. “But it has the inverse effect if it’s not well managed.” Above: A lone tree on a hillside on an island in Lake Kivu, as seen from the boat from Goma to Bukavu. Right: A Congolese boy holding a walking stick in Rumangabo, home of Virunga park’s headquarters.

109 CARRY ON “We protect this place for the future of our country,” says André Bauma, a Congolese park ranger who tends to orphaned gorillas. “For the future of our children.” Left: A junior school assembly near Bukima Tented Camp. Above: A baby gorilla on its mother’s back. LOCAL TRUTH “Emmanuel put the pieces together,” says philanthropist Howard Buffett, whose foundation recently helped fund a new hydroelectric plant in Virunga, of the park’s chief warden, Emmanuel de Merode. “I don’t know anybody who could have done what he’s done. He has a vision that would change the future for millions of people.” Above: A Congolese man. Right: A wedding procession in Rumangabo.

113 NDRÉ BAUMA, a 43-year-old Congolese De Merode took over running the park in 2008, but swath of the city’s roads and buildings in more than we’ve just seen these gorillas. In addition to housing could have done what he’s done. He has a vision that trail, trying to see the chimps. “They think we are park ranger, prepares to feed the five several years went by before he felt confident enough six feet of volcanic rock and killing scores of people dozens of rangers and containing the park’s offices, would change the future for millions of people.” poachers,” Tsongo says. “That’s why they ran. We orphaned gorillas he takes care of in about its security to invite visitors back. In 2012, fur- caught in its path. Tonight, casting a soft, luminous Rumangabo is home to Mikeno Lodge, the park’s most Before de Merode’s arrival, Mburanumwe, who need to wait here and see if they will return.” As we Virunga National Park’s Senkwekwe ther conflict erupted, with heavy artillery exchanges glow, the volcano seems benign. comfortable accommodation, with large individual is one of his top deputies, was thrown in jail in 2006 stand in the shade, an army of ants starts to climb sanctuary. Though the park is run by in the park cutting off Bauma from veterinarians The mountain gorillas inhabiting this sector of stone cabins, each with a view across the jungle and when he and several other rangers refused to be a up our legs. I stomp my feet and ask Tsongo why Emmanuel de Merode, a chief warden and medicine, resulting in more casualties, includ- the park are a critically endangered species, among a working fireplace. part of a corruption scheme at Virunga. “They were she became a ranger. “I wanted to show people that Aof Belgian extraction, Bauma has become known as ing Kaboko, at the time the world’s only captive male 1,000 or so left in the world. Their habitat is the At night around a campfire on the terrace and later receiving money for charcoal, for killing animals,” women can also do this job,” she says. Suddenly we the heart and soul of the operation—and something mountain gorilla. By 2014, however, things had sta- mountainous terrain where Congo, Rwanda and around the bar, a crew of Congolese rangers, tourists Mburanumwe says. “They were farming inside the hear movement high above us and see a family of of a celebrity—after his appearance in the Oscar- bilized enough for Virunga to reopen to the public. Uganda converge. Congo’s share of the gorillas— and various Europeans and Americans working in park. Then, when Emmanuel came, we said, ‘This is a chimps springing from branch to branch. When they nominated documentary Virunga, which chronicles Since then de Merode and his staff have scrambled approximately 400—is likely the largest of the the park has gathered for drinks and conversation. De man who will protect people, who can help us.’ ” spot us below they start to scream all together at a the rangers’ fight to protect the park in the midst of to build the infrastructure necessary to receive the three countries and certainly the most threatened. Merode sits alongside guests at a chair near the fire, De Merode has since fought many battles, some of high pitch, then finally settle down and stare back civil war. This morning, as usual, he fills big plastic influx of visitors they’re hoping to attract. In most parts of Africa, a significant hazard to wild in a uniform identical to what the other rangers wear, them chronicled in the Virunga documentary, includ- at us. Gorillas rarely pose a threat to humans, but buckets with fruit and vegetables to feed his charges On my first day in the park, our Range Rover animals is poaching. Here the gorillas are in greatest and talks with a slight British inflection. De Merode ing an ongoing effort to keep militias out of the park chimps can sometimes attack children. Bauma spent and later ventures into the sanctuary to spend time proceeds from the city center of Goma through its danger from a growing human population encroach- speaks thoughtfully, quietly, decisively—and leads and an elaborate sting to stop a multinational energy a couple of months in New York last year accompany- with the orphaned gorillas who so obviously adore outskirts along a steep dirt road flanked by a tor- ing on their habitat. Beyond that, some Congolese, his team in much the same way. company from bribing park officials for access to ing a Congolese child who had been brutally attacked him. “We protect this place for the future of our rent of muddy rainwater. Cars, motorcycles and even often encouraged by foreign companies, want to One night around the campfire, a former American mines in forbidden areas. “We have to protect the by chimps and flown to New York for facial recon- country,” he says. “For the future of our children.” factory-made carts are too expensive for most of the allow extractive industries to operate in the park. A soldier who now consults for security at parks all roads, protect the people who travel through the struction surgery. Bauma began directing this sanctuary in 1998—a local population, who instead have invented a kind of spate of gorilla killings in 2007 appears to have been over Africa tells Virunga’s tourism director, Julie park. In those areas where there are militias, we have On my last night in Virunga, we climb to the top very dangerous time in the park, the country, the homemade wooden scooter called a chukudu, which motivated by such interests: With no gorillas left to Williams, about a park in South Africa that has too to bring them under control and ensure that they of Nyiragongo, the volcanic crater I had seen aglow region. In the two years prior, dozens of rangers they use to transport supplies along these roads. As protect, the killers apparently believed, there would many lions. Williams sips her wine contemplatively, can’t attack civilian vehicles in the park,” he says. on my first night. Our group includes 12 tourists, had been killed, casualties of a civil be no reason to oppose logging inside then turns to de Merode and asks, plus park rangers, porters and a local war in the Democratic Republic of the park’s confines. “What do you think about taking in seismologist. The steep climb takes the Congo precipitated by the after- After a briefing at the ranger station, some free lions?” A few stools away, about six hours, with frequent breaks math of the genocide in neighboring our group hikes through farmland— Laura Parker, who works for Howard to hydrate and rest. As we reach Rwanda, which a few years earlier a reminder of just how close the local Buffett, a philanthropist son of Warren, the midpoint of the mountain, the had killed an estimated 800,000 peo- human population is to the gorillas— chats with a virtual-reality producer greenery starts to disappear, and by ple and became known as one of the before entering the jungle. The gorillas here from L.A. There’s a sense of excite- the time we are on the last leg of the 20th century’s most horrific atroci- we visit are one of several groups that ment at Virunga right now, a feeling climb there are only sharp lava frag- ties. Those numbers were eclipsed by the park rangers have worked for years that formerly impossible ideas are ments on the ground. We scamper up a Congo’s lesser-known civil war, a pro- to habituate to human contact, making suddenly taking shape: Buffett’s foun- steep slope to a group of small cabins tracted conflict that took as many as it safe for hikers to approach them. The dation recently funded construction perched on the side of the mountain five million lives, either from combat park is careful to limit visitor contact of a hydroelectric plant to harness the and then climb a dozen or so yards or through starvation and disease. to just one hour per group per day, on a power of the park’s mountain waters. more to a small, flat area that looks out In the face of this tragedy, the rotating basis, and to ensure that visi- The project aims to create jobs and over the volcanic lake. The Virunga rangers of Virunga have put their lives tors stay several yards away from the increase the availability of electric- mountain range includes eight vol- on the line to protect gorillas, to pre- gorillas at all times. ity in the region while helping to fund canoes, all of them dormant except serve Congo’s natural heritage and to After we have walked for a couple Virunga. A second lodge, located in the this one, Nyiragongo, and another, fight for the very existence of Africa’s of hours, winding along a narrow trail central sector, home to elephants and Nyamuragira, just a few miles away. oldest national park—a huge swath, cleared by a machete-wielding ranger other animals of the plains, is slated to The word Virunga is derived from more than 3,000 square miles, rang- ahead of us, our guide tells us to be open later this year. ibirunga, which means “volcanoes” in ing across mountainous rainforests, quiet and to don our surgical masks, Behind all of this progress is, of the local Kinyarwanda language. active volcanoes and vast plains, with which help to protect the gorillas from course, the work of hundreds of park As we gaze into the crater, we can a human population of four million human-borne diseases. Our first gorilla rangers, who in turn credit de Merode’s feel its intense heat, even though the living in or around the park. The area also shelters we drive uphill, I watch adults and children strain to sighting is of a large male lying on the ground just a leadership. The story of how he ended up here reads “That brings us in confrontation with them.” This lava is at least a quarter mile away from us. Red tribu- an estimated 40 percent of the mountain gorillas push provisions up the mountain on their chukudus few yards in front of us. A young gorilla swings from like an implausible Hollywood script: A Belgian struggle has taken a grave human toll. Since he took taries of lava ebb and flow from a central mass. Every left on the planet. while others coast quickly and dangerously down the the branches above as a female emerges from the prince swoops in to take over as head of the oldest over less than 10 years ago, de Merode has had to bury minute or so we can see and hear small eruptions The factors that make the landscape such a chal- slick road in the other direction to resupply. shadowy jungle to play too. As I watch the baby try park in Africa in the middle of a raging civil war (and 37 of his rangers killed on duty. from a second, smaller vent that the seismologist lenge to protect—vastly different ecosystems with to climb a branch and then fall down and roll over in later manages to get himself shot). But de Merode One of de Merode’s initiatives has been to recruit tells us formed just this week. “We’re watching that wild and remote animal populations—are also E REACH Bukima Tented Camp, the grass, I recall something Bauma told me. “The grew up in Kenya and before taking over at Virunga female rangers—a move with important symbolism new fissure very closely,” he says. “It formed quickly what make it the most impressive national park in a jumping-off point for a gorilla only difference between children and baby gorillas,” spent years doing his doctoral research at Garamba in a region where violence against women has been and expanded rapidly. We have to keep watching for all of Africa. Established in 1925 by King Albert I of trek, before sundown, joining he said, “is that the gorillas don’t know how to speak. National Park in Congo. He also married a paleontol- used as a weapon of war. The next morning, Ruth any changes. We have a million people living so close Belgium, Virunga was for most of the 20th century a few other travelers around a Otherwise they act the same.” ogist, Louise Leakey (daughter of one of the world’s Kavugho Tsongo, 24, shoulders her semiautomatic to this volcano.” a fully functioning tourist attraction. (Today’s just-lit campfire. The campsite Another ranger named Innocent Mburanumwe most famous paleontologists and conservationists, rifle and leads me and a guide into the jungle on a Back in Goma, evidence of the raw power of that Democratic Republic of the Congo was known as the is perched on a cleared, level told me about his first encounter with a gorilla at Richard Leakey, and paleoanthropologist Meave pathway just below my cabin in search of chimpan- lava lake is still visible even 15 years after it erupted, Belgian Congo from 1908 to 1960, 52 years of bru- Warea along a forested ridge, with views across green age 11. His father, also a ranger, had taken him into Leakey). Having worked in Congo for more than two zees near the lodge. We wind through the trees and effectively burying the town. What used to be the sec- tal colonial rule that ended with independence and treetops to the high peaks surrounding us. As dusk the jungle. When Mburanumwe first saw the gorilla, decades, de Merode understands the conservation emerge on a road where we find government soldiers ond story of many businesses and homes is now the then chaos when Congo’s first democratically elected falls, we glimpse a faint orange-red glow in the dis- he says, “I thought he looked like an old man who had challenges as well as anyone in the country. at their post. The contrast between these men, sit- ground floor. Beyond this natural disaster, Goma’s leader, Patrice Lumumba, was assassinated in 1961.) tance, which at first I mistake for the setting sun. As stayed out in the bush for a long time and forgotten “The park is an incredible opportunity to ting on broken plastic chairs and smoking cigarettes, residents have also weathered decades of warfare. By the 1970s, Congo—then called Zaire—was led by the clouds above fade to black, the glow is revealed to come back.” The gorilla now rolls over and we can strengthen the state and bring stability to the clad in torn, dirty uniforms, and Tsongo, perfectly Bauma, de Merode, Mburanumwe, Tsongo and the dictator Mobutu Sese Seko, an ally of the U.S. who to be the fiery cone of an active volcano, Nyiragongo. see his silver back, indicating that he is an older male. region,” he says. “But it also has the inverse effect if attired, with a well-maintained weapon, is striking. other rangers I met are risking their lives in the face regularly hosted guests at a luxury lodge in the heart This volcano last erupted in 2002, causing a lava flow He’s enormous, easily double my size. He pays little it’s not well managed. It provides massive financial We cross the road and re-enter the bush. Our of so much human suffering, all to defend a national of the park, leading them on safaris to see lions, ele- that reached all the way to Goma, burying a large attention to us, occasionally staring up at the young revenues for the armed groups and weakens state guide hears something ahead, and we rush along a park. One outcome of the region’s tragedies could phants, hippos and many varieties of antelope. With gorilla playing above him, and then turns to the institutions through corruption.” De Merode is now have been to give up on Virunga. But as Mburanumwe the outbreak of civil war in the late 1990s, though, ground to munch on some grass. implementing a long-term plan to ensure the survival said to me, “Without nature, there is no life. Just as Virunga became a no-go zone for tourists for nearly PRETTY IN PINK Virunga is headquartered in a place called of the park. “Emmanuel put all the pieces together,” SKELETON CREW we protect humans, in the same way the animals two decades. A child in her Sunday best near a church in Rumangabo. Rumangabo, about an hour’s drive north of where Howard Buffett says. “I don’t know anybody who Gorilla bones at the Bukima ranger station. must be protected.” •

114 THE BIG SLEEP This fall, kick back and relax in comfortable and cozy looks that are anything but tired.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNEMARIEKE VAN DRIMMELEN STYLING BY JULIAN GANIO

YETI READY Indulge in an afternoon reverie in lush materials like mohair, wool and shearling. Michael Kors coat, sweater and turtleneck and Ermenegildo Zegna Couture socks. Opposite: Fendi coat and pants. 117 LAND OF NOD Drift away in an oversize turtleneck or downy white fur. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture sweater. Opposite: Gucci fur coat, pants and slippers and Bresciani socks. BLANKET STATEMENT Evoke a Proustian yearning for childhood naps in tactile garb. Giorgio Armani coat and sweater and Dolce & Gabbana pants. Opposite: Hermès sweater and blanket. 121 EYES WIDE SHUT Chunky knits and slouchy socks are ideal for lazy days. Ralph Lauren sweater, Margaret Howell blanket and stylist’s own socks. Opposite: On her: Valentino sweater and Ralph Lauren pants. On him: Prada cardigan and Lou Dalton pants. SOFT TOUCH Take an artful approach to cold-weather dressing. Louis Vuitton shearling coat. Opposite: Berluti cardigan, turtleneck and pants and PS by Paul Smith socks. Artwork by Jasper Krabbé. Models, composer and pianist Joep Beving, painter Jasper Krabbé, Joep van de Sande and Lemmie van den Berg at Ulla Models Belgie and Estella Brons at Ulla Models; grooming, Ingrid van Hemert. For details see Sources, page 150. 125 L.A. VICE

Shane Smith, mastermind behind Vice’s ever expanding empire, has relocated to Santa Monica, California, where he and his wife, Tamyka, have restored a Spanish Colonial estate as sprawling and grand as his global media ambitions. FUN IN THE SUN A view of the main house; the guesthouse is at right. Smith bought the property for $23 million without setting foot on it. BY ANDREW GOLDMAN Opposite: Shane and PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAGNUS MARDING Tamyka in the pool with their daughters, Martina and Piper. Grooming, 126 Giovanni Giuliano. NE SPRING AFTERNOON in Santa Monica —more than three acres—and suggests the decided he should probably never drive,” Tamyka Monica, California, Shane Smith classic Hollywood vibe of the Chateau Marmont. explains. “He’s never had a license.” pauses in front of his tempera- But unlike the West Hollywood hotel, the 1930s The lifestyle she refers to is one of excess. Being “No oNe had really ture-controlled wine rack in his Spanish Colonial mansion hadn’t ever been pains- the head of a company called Vice has, for Smith, recently acquired, freshly reno- takingly renovated. meant that his corporate identity requires him to beeN takiNg care vated $23 million mansion, mulling “No one had really been taking care of the house party harder and bigger than anyone else. As Vice of the house Owhether he’ll allow himself a drink. “I’m trying to be for 15 years or so,” Tamyka says. “The owners had has grown from its humble ’90s beginnings as a give- for 15 years or so.” healthy, but we could have a glass of wine.” Smith, gotten a divorce and were renting it out. We had to away magazine into a colossal media empire aimed at who a decade ago was known for his love of canned replace all the plumbing, all the electrical, the roof the young and hip, with a website, an internationally –tamyka smith beer, uncorks a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir that and do the whole thing.” Tamyka managed most of distributed cable channel and a branded news fran- the vintner has recently delivered in person and the restoration, meticulously undertaken down to chise on HBO, the parties have swollen accordingly. settles into his favorite room in Last year, the CEO made news the house, a place he’s dubbed when after a successful night at “the drinking room” because the blackjack table he reportedly it adjoins a small onyx-walled dropped $300,000 on one meal speakeasy bar accessible only by at a Bellagio steakhouse for the pushing through a Scooby-Doo- Vice board of directors during style trick bookcase. “I haven’t the Consumer Electronics Show. really had a drink in a week, so “It wasn’t a $300,000 dinner,” he I’m gonna be loose lipped,” he tells me. “It was three eighty, plus promises, taking a small sip. tip. I broke the Vegas tip record.” A man who prides himself on The tab was mostly wine, being a gut player in the media Smith says, a costly habit that business, Smith, who is 46, has escalated along with his net bought this new house with- worth, currently estimated at out ever setting foot inside it. around $1 billion, having grown A couple of years ago, when he as Vice has drawn some big was still living in Manhattan’s investors. (In late 2015, Disney Tribeca neighborhood, he’d purchased a 10 percent stake in hoped to find a place in upstate the company for $400 million, New York so that on weekends which overnight nearly doubled his 4- and 6-year-old daugh- its valuation to more than $4 ters, Martina and Piper, could billion.) A few years ago, Smith have a place to play in the grass. was vacationing in France with “We wanted them to go out and Tamyka and dining on blanquette fall into the crick and stuff like de veau. (“Have you had it before? that,” Smith says. Locusts-on- It’s a real French thing. Veal in Hudson, a 76-acre estate just cream. It’s a bit f—ed up.”) The outside Rhinebeck where he and couple ordered a 2008 Domaine CREATURE COMFORTS Clockwise from top left: In the kitchen, hexagonal his wife got married in 2009, de la Romanée-Conti. The first floor tile from Clé; a custom vanity from MJ Atelier fit the bill. Unfortunately the sip of the grand cru burgundy in Tamyka’s dressing room; Kerry Joyce designed plan hit a snag—hotelier André changed his life. “I had it, and I the bed in the master bedroom; the pool. Balazs already owned it. “I liter- thought, This is a real problem,” ally offered him a blank check,” he says. So he endeavored to not Smith says. “He said, ‘F— you.’ ” only drink it, but drink it all. (Balazs confirms this, adding “I’ve bought the majority of 2008 that he delivered his reply “in Romanée-Conti in America,” the most friendly way.”) he says. “2008 Romanée-Conti Since Smith’s company, used to sell at auction for $4,000 GRAND ENTRANCE Vice Media, was doing so much A view from the family room to the house’s main staircase, which was added a bottle. Now it’s probably business with Disney, YouTube by Kerry Joyce and features risers of imported Moroccan ceramic tile and white oak treads. $40,000 a bottle because there and Snapchat, he thought he An antique Sébastien Érard grand piano, circa 1885. isn’t any left. I have maybe the might move out west. He was last six bottles in the world.” (A in contract on a house in the Pacific Palisades with the smallest detail, such as duplicating and recast- cursory scan of internet wine purveyors reveals sev- 180-degree views of the Pacific, until he spotted ing original terra-cotta tile in the powder room eral bottles available for under $15,000.) the beginnings of a construction site nearby. “I and incorporating pieces like handblown glass The Bellagio managed to dig out some Romanée- said, ‘Well, I’ll buy that, too, so no one f—s with my chandeliers from Venice, a geometric orb bar cus- Conti for him at that February dinner. Tom Freston, views,’ ” he says. “They said no to $35 million, so I’m tom made by MJ Atelier, antique Persian rugs and the 70-year-old co-founder of MTV and former SOAK IT UP like, OK, if they said no to 35 then they’re building various vintage French and Italian furnishings. Viacom CEO who has become a mentor to Smith From left: A chest of a f—in’ monstrosity. I’m out!” Though the house may not be quite as grand as and sits on Vice’s board, recalls the night as espe- drawers in vintage One day in the summer of 2015, his wife, Tamyka, William Randolph Hearst’s in San Simeon, Villa cially raucous, with numerous high-profile friends wood and bone inlay, from Charles Jacobsen, called to tell him that she’d located the perfect house: Ruchello met one of Smith’s key requirements: It dropping in for a glass of wine. “It became like a in Smith’s closet; the Villa Ruchello, a white stucco Mediterranean-style was close enough to Vice’s Venice offices for him to reception,” he says. “No one knew that the wine master bathroom mansion with a 72-foot-long pool and 14,000 square bike there. Two identical beige Range Rovers sit in being poured was of this absolute high quality. It features custom mosaic floors; a tiled walkway feet of living space spread across three structures. the driveway; Tamyka says that she and the nanny was more like, ‘Would you like red or white?’ We outside the master bath. The house sits on one of the biggest lots in Santa are the primary drivers. “With his lifestyle Shane must have gone through a case.”

128 129 Smith—who at 6-feet-1 and 230 pounds has been compared to mythical outsize figures like Falstaff—refers to himself as the Stalin of Vice. “He reminds me a bit of Teddy Roosevelt,” says Vice’s chief of communications, Alex Detrick, a 36-year- old Rochester native who came to the company after stints as press secretary for Senator Charles Schumer and Governor Andrew Cuomo. “He’s a fearless leader, and you always feel like you’re running into war with him.” Smith embraces combat metaphors himself. “I go to war every day,” he tells me. “I go to war with the little guys because I’m the biggest of new media, so they’re all throwing spears, and I go to war with the big guys because they’re all throwing spears because I’m coming to eat their lunch.” Despite the company’s name, Smith’s ambitions to build an empire have squeezed out some of his old self-destructive habits. “I could have worked a bit harder, not partied so much,” he says of the aughts, when he was concentrating on opening international editions of the magazine and throwing rowdy launch parties all over the globe. Now overseeing 2,600 employees in more than 30 countries, Smith has expanded his enterprise to include the cable channel Viceland, a long-term content deal with HBO that includes a five-night-a-week newscast launching this month, a website and a lucrative advertising agency. In the past several years, Smith has cannily shifted Vice’s target audience from his fellow Gen Xers (born in the late ’60s and ’70s), who consti- tuted Vice’s early readership, to millennials (born in the ’80s and ’90s). Smith touts Vice as the only media company that truly understands this demo- graphic, which in April surpassed baby boomers as the nation’s largest living generation. Though he has virtually nothing in common with them—millennials are a famously underemployed bunch, in which more than a third of all males between 18 and 34 still live at home—Disney, 21st Century Fox, A&E Networks, Freston and a consortium of other investors have bet well over a billion dollars that he knows this group better than anyone. “By all accounts he’s a completely brilliant sales- man,” says Nick Denton, founder of the beleaguered Gawker Media. “He’s got a lot of bravado and con- fidence that he uses with people who really don’t understand where things are going with the media. Shane tells them, ‘Yes, you’re right, you don’t understand this generation, but I do.’ It’s been the most successful salesmanship of advertising since the web arose. I can’t think of anyone who’s come close.”

MITH GREW UP IN OTTAWA and at age 12 made a friendship that would alter the course of his life when he met one of Vice’s future co-founders, Gavin McInnes, whose father worked at the same Canadian defense contractor as HIGH WINDOWS Smith’s. As the pair became teenagers they explored In the family room, S the city’s punk scene, later enrolling in Ottawa’s decorator Kerry Joyce designed the custom Carleton University, where, despite having no musi- bookcases; the new cal training, they played in bands (one by the name ceiling was made from of Leatherassbuttfuk). After college, Smith traveled salvaged lumber; the sofa is covered in to Budapest, where he taught at a Berlitz language Rose Cumming velvet; the antique rug is from Mansour. 131 school and did some work as an “arbitrageur,” sell- Like much of the legend of Vice, the story behind convinced them to think bigger, to open retail ing currency to hostelers. its expansion and move to the U.S. is somewhat in dis- Vice shops, launch a website and produce online McInnes says Smith earned the nickname pute. In the summer of 1998, Smith told a Canadian video content, despite the fact that virtually no one Bullshitter Shane in college for his embroidery newspaper that the magazine had several potential watched video online then. As the dot-com bubble skills. He’s since worn it like a badge of honor. new investors, including eccentric Canadian tech burst, Szalwinski announced that his cash spigot In a 2003 Vice-produced oral history of the billionaire Richard Szalwinski. It wasn’t true, but had run dry; in 2000, he allowed the partners to buy company, he cheerfully copped to inventing a first- the feint elicited a call from Szalwinski, who asked Vice back for pennies on the dollar. person account of being imprisoned in Bangkok. how much they’d need for a 25 percent investment. Broke again, the trio dusted themselves off and “We needed a story, so I’d just make something Alvi, Smith and McInnes came up with an arbitrary began anew, fighting off debt collectors to eventu- up,” he said. “It was a story I heard from somebody and nervy valuation—$4 million. “That seems like ally become a fixture of Brooklyn’s post-9/11, gritty, and I just co-opted it.” McInnes trucker-hat-wearing hipster believes that Smith’s ability to scene. Much of the anti-PC tone convince others to believe what- of the early years—embracing “a ever he tells them is one of his degrading and disgusting life- great gifts. “Shane always used style of sex and drugs and rock to say, ‘It’s all about perception and roll and death,” according MILES OF TILES versus reality.’ ” to a 2003 compilation—came The original tile in the powder room Vice magazine, Smith’s first from McInnes. (left) and foyer (below) was preserved. foray into media, originated in Today, Vice’s programming 1994 as The Voice of Montreal, is considerably more attuned to in partnership with a son of the sensitivities of millennials. Pakistani émigrés, Suroosh Alvi. Nowhere is the company’s new- Freshly sprung from rehab for found worldview more on display heroin addiction, Alvi had heard than on Viceland, a cable chan- that the Montreal-based Images nel Vice launched in February in Interculturels, a free French- partnership with A&E Networks. language newsprint magazine, In addition to shows with an wanted to launch an English- anarchic vibe, like rapper Action language version, funded by a Bronson’s food show, F*ck That’s government program to aid wel- Delicious, and the global mari- fare recipients. After dutifully juana culture show Weediquette, getting on the dole, McInnes Viceland features some serious, joined as an editor and before occasionally deadly earnest long introduced Alvi to his old shows like Gaycation, a travel friend Shane, just returned from show hosted by actress Ellen Budapest, who made a strong Page that explores LGBTQ cul- FAMILY AFFAIR first impression. Even before ture around the globe. (Viceland Above: Tamyka and Shane with their he started working, Alvi was has been rewarded for its most daughters. Right: getting late-night phone calls. socially conscious—“woke,” The rug in the girls’ “We’re going to take over the in millennialspeak—program playroom is from Restoration Hardware. world together,” Smith would offerings: Both Gaycation and Far right: The chairs purr. “We’re going to go global. It Women with Gloria Steinem in the library are covered will be a revolution.” were nominated for Emmys.) “If in Robert Allen Beacon Hill deep green velvet. Alvi was charmed but non- a lot of the stuff that we’re doing plussed. “That seemed a bit seems politically correct now, far-fetched considering I was on it’s because Gen Y people make welfare and had published maybe it,” Smith says. “We don’t hide five issues of a 16-page newsprint our past. That said, we did have magazine,” Alvi recalls. “From to look at what side of history Viacom and assumed an unofficial role as the com- early years, as he admits himself. “I get a lot of shit artists. Although the content is entirely advertiser the moment we started working we wanted to be on. A lot of my pany’s in-house grown-up. because I used to like cocaine and supermodels and funded, the Intel logo is barely visible, so it doesn’t together, he had this unbridled SECRET SHARER views on a lot of things were out- On Vice’s eponymous HBO show, where, since f—in’, and now we’re gonna try to do news,” he says. look much like advertising. Vice cautioned the com- ambition,” he adds. “I remember A bookcase in the library opens to reveal a speakeasy bar—one of Smith’s favorite spots dated. There’s a more positivist 2013, Smith has done double duty as host and cor- In 2009, while other media companies were still pany that young audiences were so sophisticated in the house, which he’s dubbed “the drinking room.” we were walking through our old thing going on now. It’s like Bob respondent, he interviewed President Obama about trying to figure out how the pittance earned from they would reject anything that smelled vaguely of office right after we had started Dylan going electric. We have to prison reform, accompanying him into an Oklahoma display advertising would ever sustain a business, corporate shilling. “That program built the com- our first video project. And he said, ‘One day this is a lot of money,” Szalwinski told them and then pro - keep changing and challenging ourselves.” federal prison to meet with nonviolent drug offend- Smith happened upon a new content model. Looking pany,” Smith says. “You learn, holy shit, we could do going to be a football field of edit suites.’ And I was ceeded to write them a check for a million dollars. McInnes—who parted with Vice in early 2008, ers saddled with strict sentences. Securing the for a way to make an aging computer chip brand rel- a $40 million deal with Intel where we actually cre- like, ‘That’s just not possible.’ Cut to five years later, Szalwinski has since disputed that he read that citing “creative differences,” and no longer speaks president for the prison special was a coup, one evant to a burgeoning millennial audience, Intel’s ate content that we like, and they don’t give notes! and we have hundreds of these edit suites all over article and has characterized his investment as to Smith—howls when hearing this pronounce- helped by Vice’s hire of longtime Obama aide Alyssa then chief marketing officer, Deborah Conrad, asked Why were we doing banner ads? Those $40 million the world. He has this special ability to look into the only “a few hundred thousand.” Regardless, the trio ment. “It’s a great sales pitch,” he says. “I think the Mastromonaco as the company’s chief operating Vice if it had any ideas. A few members of Intel’s deals have turned into $100 million deals.” future and see where we need to be in a way that no emerged from their meeting with more money than edginess to him was a hindrance for his job, which officer in 2014. Bringing on Mastromonaco and management team wondered if she’d lost her mind. In 2011, a consortium headed by Freston invested one else in Vice has.” Freston says that the New York any of them had ever seen. was selling ads. This is about what’s going to make drafting former Bloomberg Businessweek edi- “Vice published some really crazy shit,” Conrad more than $50 million in the company. Along the Times media columnist David Carr, before his death “We walked out and were literally somersault- the most money. If you want the young demo, you tor Josh Tyrangiel to oversee the HBO newscast says. “So for a brand like Intel it was like, ‘Oh wait, way, Freston provided Smith entree into an aerie last year, would often marvel about Smith’s almost ing in the grass outside of his office, like kids on have to acquiesce to the predominant narrative, has helped Vice reposition itself as a brand even a what are we doing?’ ” of media titans, including Time Warner’s Jeff prophetic quality. “He’s the greatest bullshitter Christmas Day,” says Alvi. Having already changed which is political correctness.” A couple of years sitting president could feel comfortable being asso- Despite these internal misgivings, the partner- Bewkes, as well as old MTV friends like Bono. Before I’ve ever seen but there’s one difference,” Carr told the name from Voice of Montreal to Vice, they after McInnes left, Freston, who had been fired ciated with. There’s been a notable whiplash trying ship gave life to the Creators Project, a Vice-produced long, Barry Diller had become Smith’s regular Freston. “The bullshit he says actually comes true.” decided to relocate to New York City. Szalwinski from Viacom, helped Vice buy back its stake from to reconcile this with the Smith and Vice of the series highlighting the work of contemporary lunch companion, and (Continued on page 148)

132 Field Trip For the man who has everything, how about something more? Choose from a vast array of versatile weekend bags and rugged-yet-elegant boots —ideal for country or city slicking.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS GIDDINGS FASHION EDITOR DAVID THIELEBEULE PROP STYLING BY MICHAEL O’CONNOR

JET-SET PACKS Unforgettable adventures begin with the perfect carryall. Clockwise from bottom left: Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, Jeffrey Rüdes, Ghurka, Giorgio Armani, Coach 1941, Frank Clegg, Rag & Bone, John Varvatos, 134 Boss and Ralph Lauren. SHORE UP Take a hike in sturdy boots, or opt for something more polished. Top row, from left: Kiton, Bottega Veneta, Brunello Cucinelli, A. Testoni, Bally (below), Hilfiger Edition, Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni and Tod’s. Bottom row, from left: R.M. Williams, Kenneth Cole, Dolce & Gabbana, Fratelli Rossetti and Santoni. For details see Sources, page 150.

137 This page: A set of Goyard luggage once used by Marilyn Monroe.

Facing page: One of Andy Warhol’s paintbrushes.

The Stuff of Legends Photographer Henry Leutwyler uncovers the personal possessions of some of the biggest stars of the last hundred years in his new book, Document.

BY ELISA LIPSKY-KARASZ 5 5. A Nike Mag shoe worn by Michael J. Fox in 1989’s Back to the Future Part II. The sneakers were created by longtime Nike designer Tinker Hatfield and current Nike CEO and president Mark Parker.

6. An M. Hohner Marine Band harmonica in the key of A that was Bob Dylan’s.

OB DYLAN’S harmonica, Andy Warhol’s paintbrush, Julia Child’s madeleine tray and 1 Charlie Chaplin’s cane—these are just a few of the over 300 seemingly mundane items Bthat Henry Leutwyler has sought out and photographed over the past 12 years. He envisions the images as intimate, anthropo- logical portraits of the objects’ proprietors. “The people I was really interested in died before I could photograph them,” says Leutwyler, 54. “So I thought, Let me make 6 a list of my heroes and some villains and research what they owned.” This month, the series of photographs is being pub- 7 8 lished in Document, his fourth book with Steidl. A show opening November 3 at New York’s Foley Gallery will feature many of 1. A key to room 82 at New York’s Iroquois Hotel, where the same images along with several not James Dean once lived. included in the volume. Having extensively shot portraits of 2. Gene Kelly’s copy of the script for the 1952 film 7. One of Buster Keaton’s pork- sometimes vexing humans, Leutwyler Singin’ in the Rain, which he pie hats from the ’30s. Using enjoyed the simplicity of working with co-directed and starred in, Stetsons as a base, Keaton created many of these hats, inanimate subjects. “The beautiful thing complete with his notes. This copy survived a 1983 fire at which he wore as part of his about objects is that there is no publicist, Kelly’s Rodeo Drive home. signature costume. no hair and makeup and no stylist,” he says. 8. A madeleine baking tray “They show how the owner grabbed them, 3. The cane used by Charlie Chaplin for his performance as once owned by Julia Child. used them, how they aged.” Dylan’s Hohner the Tramp in his classic 1931 harmonica had rusted and warped from his silent film, City Lights. 9. Three American Express cards that belonged to Donald Judd. spit, for example, while James Dean’s wallet 4. Tap shoes worn by Fred is marked with imprints from the key to his 2 Astaire in 1935’s Top Hat. room at New York’s Iroquois Hotel. “There FRED ASTAIRE TAP SHOES COURTESY OF THE HISTORY COLLECTIONS,ANGELES COUNTYNATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS were little circles embossed in the leather,” says Leutwyler, who shot both items. “I 9 10 loved figuring out what they were.” Leutwyler says he employed “a lot of nag- ging and a bit of luck” to track down each item. “You find objects that no one has ever seen.” Child had given her madeleine tray to pastry chef Gale Gand, who mentioned it to Leutwyler during an advertising cam- paign shoot. A set of Goyard luggage that Marilyn Monroe once used to store her clothes had been reacquired by the storied French brand; Leutwyler happened to see it one day while walking past the company’s Paris shop on the rue Saint-Honoré. And he came across Elvis Presley’s glasses at the Memphis, Tennessee, warehouse containing the musician’s archives. 10. A director’s chair used by the Italian filmmaker Of the 124 photos in the book, the image Michelangelo Antonioni on of artist Donald Judd’s AmEx cards is one the sets of La Notte (1961), that Leutwyler relates to personally: “We Blow-Up (1966) and Zabriskie Point (1970). all start with the green one, and we all hope 3 4 11 that at some time we will get a black one.” • 11. Elvis Presley’s glasses.

140 Castle in the Sky In Portugal’s Alentejo region, Swiss architect Valerio Olgiati has designed a personal retreat, Villa Além—a massive, avant-garde concrete structure that gestures to the heavens.

BY TOM VANDERBILT PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAULO CATRICA

GREAT BEYOND A long, narrow pool, constructed from giant slabs of Portuguese marble, divides Villa Além’s garden of succulents, figs and pomegranates. 142 VIEW FROM THE TOP from the Portuguese port of Sines to Spain, post- color, geometry, subtle ornamentation and oversize The villa’s “gesture of openness,” Olgiati poned for lack of funds. My initial thought, recalling openings. His K+N House, in Zurich, uses concrete so explains, was inspired other contemporary structures I’ve seen in remote white, so polished, it floats on the edge of ethereality. partly by the form of a environments, is of some kind of installation. The A workshop for the Swiss musician Linard Bardill, blossoming flower and, more prosaically, the flaps concrete flaps that flare open along the villa’s roofline built in 2007 in Scharans—which by law had to of an open cardboard box. suggest an observatory. exactly replace the existing form—evokes a concrete That sense of celestial mystery deepens as I park barn, with rough-hewn russet planks and several my car in a small patch of gravel and begin to ascend walls dominated by some 550 rosettes, hand-poured the staircase—110 feet of thin, precise concrete, using forms cast by a local craftsman. Despite its without any railing, carved into the hillside—as bunkerlike solidity, it sits in harmony with the sur- if I’m climbing toward some temple of the sun god. rounding traditional timbered buildings. Halfway up, I am warmly welcomed by Olgiati, 58, Olgiati works according to a robust organizing whose mien (precisely cut whitish hair, sober visage) idea—present even before the first sketch. “If the is offset by a flowing yet meticulously constructed idea is strong,” he says, “it turns itself into a form.” black Yohji Yamamoto outfit. The idea of Villa Além was to house a garden. “When He leads me through a large opening in the wall we are here, we are professional gardeners,” he says, and into the villa’s courtyard. Inspired by the Court inviting a chortling response from Tamara: “We of the Myrtles at the Alhambra in southern Spain, plant, we look if it’s all right; if not, it dies.” That the space—which comprises some two-thirds of garden dominates what he terms the living areas of the villa’s nearly 13,000 square feet—is dominated the house, barely visible through large, dark, almost STONE FREE by a garden (rocky, with heat-hardy succulents like cavelike openings. A walkway around agave and aloe as well as a fig the villa’s perimeter. Below: A view and a pomegranate tree) flank- of the pool from ing a long ,rectangular trench the living area. of water (a pool, it turns out). The villa, which had seemed so large and imposing from the HE VILLA ALÉM, an austere con- outside, now feels intimate. (A crete house in Portugal’s Alentejo lack of traditional windows, region that Swiss architect Valerio Olgiati suggests, skews the Olgiati designed and built for him- sense of exterior scale.) self and his wife, Tamara, is the sort The observatory metaphor of structural provocation that leaves does not go away: I find my eyes Tlaypeople struggling to find an appropriate compari- constantly drawn upward. Like son. Olgiati’s own lawyer likens it to a drug baron’s a work by James Turrell (e.g., fortress. When the house was under construction, a Irish Sky Garden), the upper worker from a nearby village asked if it was a train walls of the structure, arcing station. “Then he looked inside,” Olgiati tells me, heavenward, frame the sky “and said, ‘Ah, the train has not arrived!’ ” and invite its contemplation, Avant-garde architecture has been known to con- blurring inside and out. This found hidebound locals, but Villa Além is striking in gesture of openness, Olgiati that it leaves even architects a bit adrift. “We just explains, was in part inspired HERE AND ABROAD Tamara and Valerio Olgiati. The couple divide their time had an architect friend here two days ago,” Olgiati by the simple form of a card- between Portugal and the Alpine village of Flims, Switzerland. tells me. “He said, ‘It looks like it’s very old, or very board box, open on top, or the new.’ ” The Japanese architect Junya Ishigami, upon blossoming of a flower. (The “flaps” even slope at dif- “I come from a climate where there is no sun in finding himself surrounded by such a sheer mass ferent angles, bending in as well as out, as they would winter, and I wanted to sit in a cave and look into the of concrete, concluded that “European people,” as with an open box.) Every aspect of the design seems light,” says Olgiati, who lives with Tamara (also an Olgiati recounts, “feel comfort with sturdiness.” meant to be felt. Pushing open a door into a court- architect) the other six months or so of the year in the Another friend wrote to Olgiati and said, “I have not yard, I am struck by its weight. “That’s 800 pounds of Alpine village of Flims (whose iconic spa was most seen something like this for the last 3,000 years.” pure metal,” he says. “I am not playing around with recently featured in Paolo Sorrentino’s film Youth). When late one after- only an image of a door.” They live in a house once owned and renovated by noon I first come upon the Olgiati is known for his late father, the noted architect Rudolf Olgiati; his structure—a low-slung his boldly monumental son calls him a “convinced modernist” and a “strong concrete form just crest- structures, virtually personality.” On a small marble plaque in the stucco ing over the rugged, hilly all concrete, abstracted wall, Olgiati covered over the “R” before the name landscape of cork monta- in representation yet “Olgiati.” Nearby is the architecture office of his dos that dominate this unrelentingly precise in own design: a much-Instagrammed former barn that section of the Alentejo— construction—“even by adheres to architectural preservation rules but hap- it seems as improbable Swiss fabrication stan- pens to be made of concrete. as the randomly placed dards,” he says. To avoid Olgiati is prone to making sweeping pronounce - concrete pillars I’d seen the risk of such massed ments. (A sample from this evening: “The most earlier in the day: frozen concrete forms looking, complicated aspect of architecture is the client,” monuments, scattered as he has put it, “like an and “It’s not possible to describe the formal origins among the cork oaks, underground garage,” of this house.”) He admits to recently having read to a planned train route he deftly synthesizes The Fountainhead. “I understand why Ayn Rand

144 HEAVY POUR creates a hero like Howard Roark,” he says in per - village. The proportions of the doorway—“almost A side entrance to fect English (he once lived in California), carried a square but not really a square,” he notes—echo the villa. Olgiati estimates that along in his lilting Swiss-German accent. And he the proportions of Flemish landscape painting. 500 truckloads of sometimes bristles with righteous Roarkian anger, The sight line from the couch to that Flemish paint- concrete went into as when talk turns to a new facade he designed ing runs on a precise north-south axis. “When I its construction. for the Grisons parliament building in Chur, sit here,” Olgiati says, “I am on the middle axis.” Switzerland. The project was meant to add handi- Curiously, the Olgiati’s cat, Subaru, sits strategi- capped accessibility to the building; but rather cally in the center of the room. “Cats want to be in than construct a thin metal roof—“an umbrella,” control,” he says approvingly, “and he finds out that he scoffs—he built a huge, surprisingly grace - the middle axis is the thing to control here.” ful, 90-ton concrete form, which dwarfs the ramp Além, in Portuguese, means “beyond.” In one below. The local newspaper, he notes with exas- sense, this might simply refer to its location— peration, asked passersby whether they liked the the Alentejo refers to a region beyond the Tagus intervention. “Why would people say they like it, if River. “It’s the only place in Europe, in the warm part of Europe, where you can still buy a big piece of land,” Olgiati says. Or else it represents the idea that one is going beyond one’s usual bounds, as with any second house. “This is a house for doing nothing,” he says. Although that’s STAIRWAY HOME Ninety steps, spanning more than not quite accurate: His 110 feet, ascend from the parking area to the front entrance. firm’s servers in Flims are mirrored here, so it can be and his white paintings; Olgiati praises him as a kin- treated as a remote office. dred spirit for “trying to do something that referred (Olgiati has his physi- to nothing.” Tamara wonders aloud if by merely cal mail scanned daily painting on surfaces he was already being pretty ref- in Flims and sent as PDF erential. “Ja,” Olgiati says, scratching his chin. files; an internet phone, The hallway that leads from living room to bed - meanwhile, allows calls room is curved (an echo of the K+N House in Zurich) originating in Portugal to and shrouded in darkness. He excitedly asks me to MIXED USE seem as if they are coming walk down it, and I can feel the dislocation. “When A massive table in the center of the from Switzerland, he says, you have too much light, you go deeper into the combination office/dining room. a tad mischievously.) cave,” he says. The bedrooms look out to their own One also senses that bare, concrete spaces, enclosed except for a single beyond refers to something opening to the sky that casts an ever-changing it’s something they’ve never seen? If people don’t more radical: the idea of moving beyond typical ellipse of sunlight. He asks me where I think my like it, it’s proof that it must be good!” architectural typologies, of comfortably accepted car is; I have no idea. He wants me to forget where Eventually, we all move into the cave. As Olgiati ways of living. There is, he notes, no fireplace in I am, to forget the house itself. “When you think of pours gin and tonics, we sit on low-slung couches. the house. “I don’t want to give the impression of a this house when you are gone, you will think only Like almost everything else in the house, they are country house,” he says, “where you sit around the of the courtyard,” he says. “All the rest are parts of made of concrete—large, almost ritualistic slabs fireplace.” He wants his architecture to be free from a cave, or a labyrinth.” that seem forged out of the very floor itself (cov - ideologies and the life lived in that architecture to Returning the next morning, I see the house in ered in velvet cushions, they turn out to be quite be capable of new possibilities. “I want things to be a different light—a new placement of shadows, the comfortable). A few Jasper Morrison mushroom- abstract in a certain way, so they don’t remind you slightly different hue of the concrete. We sit on vin- like footstools are scattered nearby; that they are of your little dreams.” tage military canvas camp made of cork is merely coincidental. On one wall, As in a funhouse, dislocation chairs, drinking espresso from there is a large photograph of an ancient, weath - beckons at every turn. Every John Pawson cups, watch- ered Christ figure by the Peruvian artist Javier room has its own pitched ceiling as Subaru strides into the Miguel Verme. ing, giving each the feeling of courtyard, clutching a lizard, When Olgiati fires up Beethoven’s Pathétique being a proto–Swiss “primitive looking, as cats do, at once Sonata on a Sonos sound system, the first fortis - hut” unconnected to the rest of prideful and a touch guilty for simo notes seem to resonate with extra depth. The the house. Doorways are low, his act. wall behind the couch bulges outward at a slight to force this sense of separa- I feel a slight groan, as if angle, emphasizing the impression, Olgiati says, tion. There is no dining room; from the earth itself. “That’s of “masses of material.” When I suggest, half- we eat at the office’s huge con- the concrete moving,” Olgiati jokingly, that there is something here, at least crete table, whose solemn heft tells me, pointing at the wall. subconsciously, of the Swiss tradition of building is contrasted by fragile Hermès The jointed sections drift apart underground shelter, both Olgiatis laugh a little dinner plates (the Olgiatis are and back a few millimeters a nervously. Then he tells me: “We have a panic fans, one reason they allowed day, a reminder of how the natu- room, by the way. It is even ventilated.” the company to do a fashion ral world still inhabits even the ABSTRACT LIGHT We are facing the far end of the courtyard, where shoot at Além last year). Our One of the villa’s most inanimate objects. For a a large doorway cinematically frames a sunset view conversation turns to the cavelike hallways. moment, the concrete seems as of green hills and the white buildings of a distant abstract artist Robert Ryman alive as the plants it encloses. •

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HIS CHANGED MY LIFE,” Smith says, nearly all the decisions about the house, but is also pointing the stem of his sunglasses largely responsible for the focus and relative calm SHANE SMITH at a painting hanging on the wall that have taken over Smith’s life in the past decade. Continued from page 133 of his living room of an astronomer “It wasn’t coincidental,” Jonze says. “It was Tamyka peering into a telescope. “This is and who she is and their relationship.” [Augusto] Giacometti, looking into Standing on the terrace off the living room, Smith Rupert Murdoch (chairman and CEO of News Corp, Tthe future.” On a high-speed tour of his sprawling surveys his property through a pair of Wayfarers: which owns The Wall Street Journal) was tweet- home, he pauses thoughtfully in front of the paint- A pool far below is surrounded by a forest of green ing approvingly of Vice. (In 2013, 21st Century Fox, ing, rendered in warm hues. “I saw it when I was palms, punctuated by brilliant pink patches of man- which shares ownership with News Corp, purchased young,” he says, explaining that he first encoun- icured bougainvillea and a bocce court with several a five percent stake in the company for $70 million). tered it on a trip to Switzerland. The painting, he stone goddesses staring down from atop a high par- At the helm of Vice, Smith has become something says, once hung in the doorway of a Swiss home for tition wall—statues immediately recognizable as of a corporate magpie, snapping up smaller enter- orphan boys and served as an inspiration to hold on background players in Beverly Hills Cop’s shootout prises that catch his eye. In March, Vice bought for happier days. “It’s rosy and golden,” he says. “I finale, in which Villa Ruchello was cast as the lair of a controlling interest in British indie production fell in love with it. I cried. And then I bought it.” villain Victor Maitland. Smith points below toward company Pulse. Just after my interview with Smith, If anyone wanted to locate the Rosebud to unlock the pool, noting the area of the movie’s final scene. Vice acquired London-based Garage Magazine—a the key to Smith’s obsessive drive, a good place “My wife wanted to get rid of the statues. And I publication founded by Dasha Zhukova devoted to to start hunting would be the childhood home in said, ‘You gotta keep the statues from Beverly Hills art, fashion and architecture—and will soon add which Smith and his older brother, Sean, grew up, Cop!’ ” The house was built in the early 1930s, the a Garage website to its digital network. And in late where they often heard their father say that the dream home of Harold P. Cooper, an insurance execu- July, it bought a majority stake in Starworks Group, only way to escape a life of misery was to outfight tive from the Midwest who occupied it for more than a New York–based agency that casts ad campaigns and outearn all rivals. “He was a tough taskmaster,” 40 years. Since 1994, the home had belonged to inde- and forges wear-for-pay deals between celebrities Smith says. “We had to get straight A’s and box, be pendent film director Henry Jaglom. Before Smith and fashion labels. (That same month, Smith’s shop- strong guys, be the smartest and the toughest and arrived, Fleetwood Mac crashed in the house while ping spree included a $3.8 million, 2,600-square-foot the best, ’cause life isn’t fair. He was teaching us to they recorded a recent reunion album. “Just lie on modernist home less than a mile from Villa Ruchello, be men because he came from a hard world. In ret- the floor and you’ll get a contact high,” Smith says. which Detrick says was purchased as temporary rospect, he gave me the tools that I needed to get Apart from sparing the famous movie caryatids housing for visiting Vice executives.) where I am today.” (and picking out a state-of-the-art Japanese toilet), The company’s journey from renegade outsider to Smith left home at 13. “I went because my dad Smith also helped source a decorator. When he first media empire has been accomplished very quickly. was like, ‘You have to be a f—in’ man’ from when I visited Freston’s townhouse on Manhattan’s East With success comes scrutiny. Before cable channel was 8, which is hard to take when you’re 8,” he says. 66th Street (a former home of Andy Warhol), he Viceland launched into 70 million complimented him on the décor and homes earlier this year, Smith prom- his array of sumptuous Oriental rugs SEASONAL ESSENTIALS FROM “my father was a tough taskmaster. DAVID DONAHUE HERNO 7DENARI ised that it would lure “millennials and asked who’d decorated it. After MASTER & DYNAMIC back to TV.” But early reports showed we had to be the smartest aNd Smith bought Villa Ruchello, Freston Meticulously crafted menswear. An iconic Master & Dynamic shares their summer Bomber made in the lightest nylon, only seven that well under 100,000 people a day the toughest aNd the best, ’cause was surprised to learn that Smith brand of luxury and self-expression. Find us menswear must-haves. deniers, padded with a mix of fine goose down and Tamyka had hired his decorator, on Facebook and follow us on Twitter and technical feather water resistant. The packing were watching, a significant decline @masterdynamic: Summer Sunday life isN’t fair.” —shaNe smith @DavidDonahue. system completes performance. from H2, the channel it replaced. Kerry Joyce. Tamyka and Joyce’s col- #wsjmagmen inspired bottom. (In response, Vice cites more recent laboration resulted in a mansion so Nielsen data suggesting that, though Viceland’s “But by the time you’re 13 you’re like, ‘OK, f— you, I effortlessly cool that Freston says he now feels com- DAVIDDONAHUE.COM INSTAGRAM.COM/MASTERDYNAMIC HERNO.IT overall audience remains modest, a younger gen- can do it now,’ which is what happened, and it broke pelled to redecorate his own place to keep up. “I was eration is tuning in: Viewership has spiked among my mother’s heart.” He says he stayed in squats with blown away when I saw it,” Freston says. “I thought I 18- to 34-year-olds, bringing the median age to 38, fellow punks and at 14 somehow landed a job bar- had a nice house. I found out we’re all living like rats much younger than H2’s audience.) Nancy Dubuc, tending at an establishment where, he has said, he compared to Shane.” president and CEO of A&E Networks, Vice’s partner made extra money “slinging coke.” Smith, back nursing his wine in the drinking on the channel, professes to be not too concerned “I learned all my business acumen being a drug room, says that becoming a dad has inspired him about numbers. Viceland’s birth reminds her of dealer,” he once said. (As with a prior claim that he to want to save the world. The transition to father - another rocky youth-oriented launch. “They had no was once a freelance war correspondent for Reuters hood, he says, fortuitously brought his personal idea at MTV what the hell they were doing, but they in Bosnia, fact-checking many of Smith’s early outlook more in line with that of a socially con - just did it,” she says. “We’re not exactly sure what exploits can prove confounding.) His early life has scious younger generation (or, as he often refers to we’re doing, but damn it, I love this content. I don’t provided him with both his fight and his bluster, them, “the number-one cohort as the baby boom - know that it’s all going to work, but I’m not going which may serve as a protective shell. “If you’ve ers die off”). to dissolve the conversation into numbers, perfor- been around him enough, you see the way he shows “Kids change your f—in’ perspective,” he says. mance and business. We’re not a widget factory.” his love is in this very large, gregarious, big-hearted “You go from being a narcissist to, Holy shit, we Likewise, Vice’s HBO show gets about 2.4 mil - way,” says his close friend, filmmaker Spike Jonze, gotta fix this planet; otherwise my kids are gonna lion cross-platform views; a megahit like Game of who serves as creative director at Vice and co-pres- be f—ed and that’s gonna be my fault ’cause I could Thrones gets 25 million, while a cult darling like ident of Viceland. “Shane is only competitive with have done something about it.” Last Week Tonight (hosted by John Oliver) nets people who start shit with him. He doesn’t think Someday, just as he’s doing now, the new cohort BOSS MADE IN ITALY LEATHER SHOES JOHN VARVATOS FALL 2016 SHARE YOUR #WSJOFTHEDAY more than 4 million. But for HBO, what Vice offers about his friends that way.” will stand up and fight for control of the media. In the New for Fall 2016, a sophisticated collection of John Varvatos cultivates a fresh point of view for Escape with @wsj and @wsjmag. Share your cannot be quantified just by eyeballs. “Remember, The evolution of Smith—from libertine upstart meantime, Vice will aim to meet the entire younger men’s shoes handcrafted in Italy featuring rich Fall 2016 preserving an artisan heritage while #wsjoftheday on for a chance to be regrammed. craftsmanship and precision detailing. combining refined tailoring with a rock sensibility. we’re not in the ratings business; we’re in the to respectable mogul—in many ways mirrors the generation’s media needs, in every country on earth. @kimair: lazy sunday morning... brand business,” says HBO’s chairman and CEO, rehabilitation of Villa Ruchello, following decades “I’ll take the fact that I’m in with Gen Y all day long,” #LONGLIVEROCK Richard Plepler. “We try to make decisions about of hard use. His wife gets credit for both. Tamyka, he says. “They’re soon going to be the political things that elevate our brand, and Vice is a quint - a former Vice employee who grew up the daughter power, the economic power and the media power. HUGOBOSS.COM JOHNVARVATOS.COM INSTAGRAM.COM/KIMAIR essential example of something that elevates of a folk musician father and a massage therapist And I joke with all the old-school guys. I tell them, HBO’s brand.” mother in New Hope, Wisconsin, not only made ‘You’re gonna die off, and I’m just gonna grow.’ ” •

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© 2016 DOW JONES & COMPANY, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 6AO1572. With vintage typewriters hanging from the ceilings and quotes lining the walls, The Press Hotel draws inspiration from its past as the Portland Press Herald. In a story of rebirth, journalist Ani Tzenkova explores a one-of-a-kind Old Port experience you can only find in the Autograph Collection.®

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still life CARRIE MAE WEEMS The photographer—with a solo show in NYC next month—shares her favorite things.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN W. FERRY

“I’VE BEEN COLLECTING African sculpture for over medal from Harvard last fall, alongside people like to illustrate German athleticism. My husband broke a 30 years. I bought the three tall figures on the left the rapper Nas and Muhammad Ali—I was sad that similar piece from Italy—I think maybe he doesn’t like in Germany during the ’90s (they’re West African). I my father wasn’t alive to hear his name associated my stuff! I acquired the animalistic pot on the right had a really fabulous one of a cameraman, but I gave with Ali. The large wood sculpture in the center in Ghana. I had to get permission from the national it away as a gift—I’ve regretted it ever since. Those depicts a man and woman sharing a bowl. It dates museum to take it out of the country. The stool is a are ritual figures in front. I got them at a flea market back to 15th-century central Africa. I found it in a great piece of African sculpture—it’s always in my in South Africa. I knew that the individual selling shop in Atlanta. My husband accidentally knocked it environment. Marc Swanson, a former student of them was probably doing it for the wrong reasons, so over once. I had never hit him and I’d never cried, but mine, made my beautiful black doe on the left. Finally, I felt as though I was rescuing them from a terrible that morning, I hit him and I cried! He took it to the on the wall is my work Color: Real and Imagined, a fate. The lovely little framed work to the right is by Met to have it restored. The sculpture to the right is breakthrough piece for me. I think of these items as the artist Kerry James Marshall. I have a painting German. I bought it on eBay. She’s one of those heroic personal emblems of possibility, of life, of extraordi- of his in the next room. I received the W.E.B. Du Bois figures that were made in the 1930s and ’40s, meant nary innovation.” —As told to Thomas Gebremedhin

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