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Clothing of Kansas Women, 1854-1870
CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 by BARBARA M. FARGO B. A., Washburn University, 1956 A MASTER'S THESIS submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree MASTER OF SCIENCE Department of Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 1969 )ved by Major Professor ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express sincere appreciation to her adviser, Dr. Jessie A. Warden, for her assistance and guidance during the writing of this thesis. Grateful acknowledgment also is expressed to Dr. Dorothy Harrison and Mrs. Helen Brockman, members of the thesis committee. The author is indebted to the staff of the Kansas State Historical Society for their assistance. TABLE OP CONTENTS PAGE ACKNOWLEDGMENT ii INTRODUCTION AND PROCEDURE 1 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 3 CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 12 Wardrobe planning 17 Fabric used and produced in the pioneer homes 18 Style and fashion 21 Full petticoats 22 Bonnets 25 Innovations in acquisition of clothing 31 Laundry procedures 35 Overcoming obstacles to fashion 40 Fashions from 1856 44 Clothing for special occasions 59 Bridal clothes 66 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 72 REFERENCES 74 LIST OF PLATES PLATE PAGE 1. Bloomer dress 15 2. Pioneer woman and child's dress 24 3. Slat bonnet 30 4. Interior of a sod house 33 5. Children's clothing 37 6. A fashionable dress of 1858 42 7. Typical dress of the 1860's 47 8. Black silk dress 50 9. Cape and bonnet worn during the 1860's 53 10. Shawls 55 11. Interior of a home of the late 1860's 58 12. -
“Al-Tally” Ascension Journey from an Egyptian Folk Art to International Fashion Trend
مجمة العمارة والفنون العدد العاشر “Al-tally” ascension journey from an Egyptian folk art to international fashion trend Dr. Noha Fawzy Abdel Wahab Lecturer at fashion department -The Higher Institute of Applied Arts Introduction: Tally is a netting fabric embroidered with metal. The embroidery is done by threading wide needles with flat strips of metal about 1/8” wide. The metal may be nickel silver, copper or brass. The netting is made of cotton or linen. The fabric is also called tulle-bi-telli. The patterns formed by this metal embroidery include geometric figures as well as plants, birds, people and camels. Tally has been made in the Asyut region of Upper Egypt since the late 19th century, although the concept of metal embroidery dates to ancient Egypt, as well as other areas of the Middle East, Asia, India and Europe. A very sheer fabric is shown in Ancient Egyptian tomb paintings. The fabric was first imported to the U.S. for the 1893 Chicago. The geometric motifs were well suited to the Art Deco style of the time. Tally is generally black, white or ecru. It is found most often in the form of a shawl, but also seen in small squares, large pieces used as bed canopies and even traditional Egyptian dresses. Tally shawls were made into garments by purchasers, particularly during the 1920s. ملخص البحث: التمي ىو نوع من انواع االتطريز عمى اقمشة منسوجة ويتم ىذا النوع من التطريز عن طريق لضم ابر عريضة بخيوط معدنية مسطحة بسمك 1/8" تصنع ىذه الخيوط من النيكل او الفضة او النحاس.واﻻقمشة المستخدمة في صناعة التمي تكون مصنوعة اما من القطن او الكتان. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Effects on Printing Quality According to Yarn Twist and Knitting Structure of Media in Digital Textile Printing(I)
한국염색가공학회지 제22권 제3호 2010년 Textile Coloration and Finishing Vol. 22, No. 3, 2010 〈연구논문〉 DTP(Digital Textile Printing)에서 미디어의 원사꼬임 및 편성구조가 프린팅 Quality에 미치는 영향(I) 박순영†․전동원․박윤철1․이범수2 이화여자대학교 의류직물학과, 1한국생산기술연구원 융복합기술연구본부, 2한국생산기술연구원 경기기술지원본부 Effects on Printing Quality according to Yarn Twist and Knitting Structure of Media in Digital Textile Printing(I) Soon Young Park†, Dong Won Jeon, Yoon Cheol Park1 and Beom Soo Lee2 Dept. of Clothing and Textile, Ewha Womans University, Seoul 120-750, Korea 1Textile Fusion Technology R&D Dept., Institute of Industrial Technology(KITECH), Ansan 426-171, Korea 2e-Color Technology Service Center Dept., Institute of Industrial Technology(KITECH), Ansan 426-171, Korea (Received: March 28, 2010/Revised: July 16, 2010/Accepted: July 29, 2010) Abstract― Digital textile printing(DTP) is becoming more important because the production trend of textile printing goods is adapting to small-lot multiple items. Recently enhanced use of DTP is closely connected with production of high value-added products in fashion industry, which is also appropriate for quick response system(QRS). Quality of DTP depends on pre-treatment, after-treatment, ink, media, printer, etc. One of these parameters, Selection of good media is very important to obtain high quality of DTP products. Especially, the effects of media on printing quality of DTP according to yarn twist and structure of knitting fabric were examined in this study. Two types of yarn twist of 830 t.p.m and 1630 t.p.m for cotton knit were used and five types of media structures were knitted with single circular knitting machine. -
Textile Preview Salesforce
NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS $2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 39 SEPTEMBER 20–26, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS RETAIL Nontraditional Retail Is Setting Trends in Retail Real Estate By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Representatives of some of the newest trends in retail took the stage at the I nternational Council of Shopping Centers’ W estern Conference Deal Making convention, which ran Sept. 16–1 at the Los Angeles Con ention Center in the city’s downtown. Speaking on the conference’s experiential-retail panel were Allison Samek, chief executive officer of F red Segal, and Tony Sekora, director of real-estate development at Nordstrom nc Samek said that the brand would build new stores overseas, a plan that was announced earlier this year when the retailer was acquired in March for an undisclosed amount by the brand-licensing agency G lobal cons. Retail Real Estate page 18 SUSTAINABILITY DuPont Sorona Makes a Sustainable-Apparel Connection With Farm- to-Table Food Sourcing the dark side By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor Through establishing parallels between the locally sourced, slow-food movement and the slowing down of For her Spring 2020 collection, designer Dalia MacPhee made florals a bit apparel production from fast fashion, DuPont Sorona hosted an event on Sept. 11 to promote more-responsible approaches more magical by relying on season-appropriate prints in deeper hues. to fashion. Bringing together professionals from the apparel business, garment-industry watchdogs and environmental- MICHAEL BEZJIAN conservation organizations, Sorona illustrated how principles from farm-to-table food sourcing could be applied to fashion manufacturing. -
Historic Furnishings Assessment, Morristown National Historical Park, Morristown, New Jersey
~~e, ~ t..toS2.t.?B (Y\D\L • [)qf- 331 I J3d-~(l.S National Park Service -- ~~· U.S. Department of the Interior Historic Furnishings Assessment Morristown National Historical Park, Morristown, New Jersey Decemb r 2 ATTENTION: Portions of this scanned document are illegible due to the poor quality of the source document. HISTORIC FURNISHINGS ASSESSMENT Ford Mansion and Wic·k House Morristown National Historical Park Morristown, New Jersey by Laurel A. Racine Senior Curator ..J Northeast Museum Services Center National Park Service December 2003 Introduction Morristown National Historical Park has two furnished historic houses: The Ford Mansion, otherwise known as Washington's Headquarters, at the edge of Morristown proper, and the Wick House in Jockey Hollow about six miles south. The following report is a Historic Furnishings Assessment based on a one-week site visit (November 2001) to Morristown National Historical Park (MORR) and a review of the available resources including National Park Service (NPS) reports, manuscript collections, photographs, relevant secondary sources, and other paper-based materials. The goal of the assessment is to identify avenues for making the Ford Mansion and Wick House more accurate and compelling installations in order to increase the public's understanding of the historic events that took place there. The assessment begins with overall issues at the park including staffing, interpretation, and a potential new exhibition on historic preservation at the Museum. The assessment then addresses the houses individually. For each house the researcher briefly outlines the history of the site, discusses previous research and planning efforts, analyzes the history of room use and furnishings, describes current use and conditions, indicates extant research materials, outlines treatment options, lists the sources consulted, and recommends sourc.es for future consultation. -
The Denim Report
118 Fashion Forward Trends spring/summer 2016 | fabrics & more | FFT magazine 119 THE DENIM REPORT n this season, the denim offering is wide and qualitative: selvedge denim for purists, power stretch for trendsetters, washed-out effect for the 70s wind blowing around Ithe fashion world, and eco-friendly for green and ethical brands. Little did one know that the fabric would ingratiate itself in the mainstream so decidedly as to become the uniform of generations post the 80s. Irrespective of whether you belong in the 1% or the 99, your age bracket or your cultivated tastes, denim has been part of everyone’s wardrobe. It’s a 60 billion dollar market for retailers alone and designers are keen to partake a piece of this massive pie. It helps that the fabric is the ‘people pleaser’ – it will readily turn into anything one likes. Numerous innovations and fabric infusions such as khadi-denim, silk- denim, 3D textures and laser and ozone finishes change its face beyond comprehension, and this, once street-style, turns sophisticated enough to form a cocktail dress. INDUSTRY TRENDS Sustainability has been a long-standing buzzword but there is ever-newer growth in this direction. As the trend for distressed jeans diminishes, the dyeing process becomes less dependent on chemical sprays and resins. Multiple brands are opting to use 100% organic cotton and natural dye. Artisanal products go for untreated metal zippers and rivets, making it non-toxic. Chemical companies’ enthusiasm for change is making them to associate with leading jeans manufacturers to bring about major savings in key materials, energy, water usage, waste and emission reductions, and ensuring your right to operate in communities around the world. -
Navy Sweat Pants, Blue Polo Shirt, White Crew Socks, White Sneakers
Good Shepherd Academy A Middle States Accredited Catholic Academy 24 Brookline Avenue, Nutley, NJ 07110 Phone 973-667-2049 Fax 973-661-9259 www.gsanutley.org DRESS CODE POLICY Good Shepherd Academy students take pride in wearing their uniforms as a sign of their love and dedication to the educational mission of the academy. They have the opportunity to wear an OFFICIAL WINTER AND SUMMER UNIFORM which is purchased from FLYNN & O’HARA UNIFORM COMPANY, either online, or in their stores located in Newark and Parsippany, New Jersey. All transactions take place directly with Flynn O’Hara Uniforms since they know all the items needed. The uniform is mandatory. THE OFFICIAL WINTER UNIFORM is worn the first full week of November through the last full week of April. (See monthly school calendar for exact start date) THE OFFICIAL SPRING/FALL UNIFORM is worn from the first full week of May through the last full week of October. (See monthly school calendar for exact start date) PRE-Kindergarten Boys and Girls Winter Uniform - Navy sweat pants, blue polo shirt, white crew socks, white sneakers. Spring/Fall Uniform – Navy micromesh shorts, blue polo or ash gray gym shirt, white crew socks, white sneakers. Boys Kindergarten Winter Uniform - Navy pants, white banded bottom shirt, black oxford tie shoes, navy crew socks. (No tie, no belt) Spring/Fall Uniform–Navy shorts, white banded bottom shirt, white crew socks, white sneakers. Boys Grades 1-8 Winter Uniform – Navy pants, black/brown reversible belt, white button down collar shirt (long or short sleeves), school tie, (grades 1-5 plaid tie), (Grades 6-8 navy pattern tie), mandatory navy vest, optional GSA navy cardigan sweater may be worn over vest, (no other sweatshirt or sweater may be worn); black tie shoes, navy crew socks. -
Sloppy Sweaters [And] Tweed Skirts:” Proposed Styles for the Wartime College Woman Jennifer M
International Textile and Apparel Association 2013: Regeneration, Building a Forward Vision (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings Jan 1st, 12:00 AM We wore “sloppy sweaters [and] tweed skirts:” Proposed styles for the wartime college woman Jennifer M. Mower Oregon State University Elaine L. Pedersen Oregon State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings Part of the Fashion Design Commons Mower, Jennifer M. and Pedersen, Elaine L., "We wore “sloppy sweaters [and] tweed skirts:” Proposed styles for the wartime college woman" (2013). International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings. 119. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/2013/presentations/119 This Event is brought to you for free and open access by the Conferences and Symposia at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. New Orleans, Louisiana 2013 Proceedings We wore “sloppy sweaters [and] tweed skirts:”1 Proposed styles for the wartime college woman Jennifer M. Mower and Elaine L. Pedersen, Oregon State University Keywords: World War II, Historic analysis, Clothing needs By Fall 1943 about half of all U. S. college students were women as men left the campuses to fight in World War II. Because of this shift many U.S. colleges tailored their courses and programs to female students.2 National periodicals also focused attention on the co- eds. The purpose of this study was to examine proposed styles for college women during WWII to help historians analyze and put into context dress worn by college women during the war. -
Double Corduroy Rag
E-newes - coming to you monthly! Get connected: Visit schachtspindle.com for helpful Each issue includes a project, hints, project ideas, product manuals and informa- tion. Follow our blog, like us on Facebook, pin us on helpful tips & Schacht news. Pinterest, visit Schacht groups on Ravelry, follow us TM on Twitter. News from the Ewes DECEMBER 2014 Blanket Weaving in the Southwest. We What is a countermarche loom liked Loie Stenzel’s suggestion for us- and why do we love it for rugs? Project ing patterned as well as solid fabrics, Double Corduroy Rag Rug Before I tell you why we love our countermarche so I spent some time by Chase Ford Cranbrook loom for rug weaving, I want to give you familiarizing myself After weaving off the mohair blanket a very brief overview of three systems for creating with the color pal- sheds. on the Cranbrook Loom (see pictures ettes that appeared On jack looms, on our Facebook), Jane and I decided in the blankets in when the treadle is that a double corduroy rug would be Wheat’s book. I depressed, some shafts fun to try. Corduroy is a pile weave that found several colors raise and the others is created by weaving floats along with and prints of a light- remain stationary. Jack a ground weave. The floats are cut after weight 100% cotton looms are the most weaving to form the pile. Corduroy can fabric to sample Rug sample popular style of looms be either single or double. Generally, with. in the U.S. and is the system we use for our Wolf and Standard Floor Looms. -
The Art of Commanòrnc Attention: a Òuet Anò All Atone
By Popular Demand! THE HISTORY OF the aRt of commanòrnc attention: 'g CORDING a anò all atone By Robert Angus òuet By NAT HENTOFF Although I approach each new rec- kind of cocky, strutting "half- valve" The entire six -part series from ording with anticipation of pleasure - sound and thrust that characterized Modern Recording Magazine. being a chronic though much disap- Rex Stewart's work with Duke El- pointed optimist -the prospect of a lington. (In fact, there are variations Reprinted as a specially bound trumpet -percussion duet gave me here on Rex's "Boy Meets Horn. ") In book for only ... $3.50 pause. The likelihood was either much addition, Bowie explores, often with Send for this edition today! "experimental" flailing about by both wit, a diversity of other sound poten- participants or a series of virtuosic tials on the trumpet. And it's all done Send check or money order to: exercises. Since the dialogue, however, with such strong, implicit swinging Modern Recording Magazine was between Lester Bowie and Phillip time that even though the pulse is often 14 Vanderventer Ave. Wilson, I should have known better. not explicitly stated, it is there. Add Their Duet on IAI (Improvising Artists Bowie's sure, graceful sense of Port Washington, N.Y. 11050 Inc.) is continually absorbing, surpris- dynamics and his ease with vast space ing, stimulating, and above all, abun- (he doesn't feel he has to fill it all up), dantly pleasurable to the senses. and you have an uncommon creator. Bowie, who first became widely Also on IAI is Ran Blake's Solo Piano. -
MAKE YOUR OWN SCRUBBIE Create Your Netting Yarn Step 1 Lay Your
MAKE YOUR OWN SCRUBBIE Create Your Netting Yarn Step 1 Lay your yard of netting (When I was doing craft sales I bought 5 yard lengths.) out on the floor or table (I use my bed or couch and pin it down.). Fold netting to make several layers into a long rectangle, as it came off the bolt. It’s still folded. Try to line up the folded edge as straight as you can. (I put a few pins in to hold the folded piece together.) Step 2 Cut strips 3 to 4 inches in width down the length of the folded rectangle, cutting perpendicular to the end of the fabric to get the longest strips. Cut from the fold out to the opposite edge. Remember it’s folded so the width of the first strip will be double when opened. Therefore cut the first strip narrower(about 1½ inches) . Your first strip (and the last one or two) will be a little irregular when you begin to use it. Your creativity will dictate how to adjust. We are not concerned about perfection here. If you are a perfectionist, buy a machine made scrubbie. If you want a two colored scrubbie cut 1½ to 2 inch strips from both colors and use both strands like one strip. (See the red and white one shown in step 5.) Step 3 Tie the ends of the strips together with a simple knot to form one continuous strip. Wind the strips into a ball if you wish. (I cut the strips as I use them.) Crochet a Simple Scrubbie Step 1 Tie the free end of the strip of nylon net into a slip knot and place the loop over a medium-sized crochet hook, size J or K, and chain four.